Role of Silicone in Resin Finishing

By: Gunaseelan J.
Introduction
Resin or wrinkle free finishing is widely used in the textile industry to impart wrinkle-resistance to cotton
fabrics and garments. Considerable loss in strength and abrasion resistance of the finished fabrics has been
a major concern for the industry. Enhancing dimensional stability and wrinkle resistance with resin finishing
of cotton has constantly been correlated with lower abrasion resistance and tear strength. The strength of
the fibre depends on how much the cross-linked chains can still be mutually displaced under tension in order
to sufficiently resist the applied load. The rigid cross-links that are formed with the DMDHEU obviously
prevent the redistribution of stress by preventing movement within the fibre microstructure. The cross-linking
of cellulose molecules with these relatively rigid cross-links causes stiffening of the cellulosic
macromolecular network and fibre embitterment, thus dropping the mechanical strength of the treated cotton
fabrics. These same mechanisms are responsible for reduced mechanical properties of the fibre surface,
thus leading to strength loss. Fibre surface property alteration, such as through the use of softeners, has
been shown to play an important task in minimising strength loss.
Objective
The mixture of inadequate scratch resistance and relatively severe tensile and tear strength loss has been a
major disadvantage for resin finished 100% cotton fabrics. The objectives of this work are to investigate the
cause and mechanism of loss in abrasion resistance of cross linked cotton fabrics; relationships between the
molecular structure of cross-linking agents and their effect on the mechanical properties of cross-linked
textile structures; and develop a technology for improving the tear strength of resin finished cotton fabrics by
adding special silicones.
Tear and Tensile Resistance
An overwhelming majority of durable press finishing agents used today are formaldehyde based reagents,
such as dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) and modified DMDHEU, with magnesium chloride as a
catalyst.

The following summarises some of the important aspects so far:

1. The catalysts used for DMDHEU systems, such as magnesium chloride, cause degradation of
cellulose, thus reducing the tensile and tear strength of cotton fabric. The magnitude of fabric
strength loss is affected by temperature, time, and concentration of the catalyst. Fabric strength loss
also depends on both the cation and anion of the catalyst. An activated catalyst system, which
includes an organic acid, causes more severe fabric tensile strength loss.
2. Tensile strength loss of cotton fabric treated with DMDHEU is due to both the cross-linking of
cellulose and the degradation of cellulose caused by the catalyst. Because a catalyst system plays
such an important role in influencing the strength loss of cotton fabrics cross-linked by DMDHEU,
the selection of the catalyst system and its concentration is crucial for optimising the tensile strength
retention of the finished fabrics.
3. DMDHEU can be removed from the finished fabric by using an alkali treatment, as evidenced by the
decrease in wrinkle recovery angle with removal. The fabric strength gradually increases as the
hydrolysis of the cross-linked fabric progresses, indicating that the fabric strength loss due to crosslinking the cellulose molecules is reversible and that it can be restored by removing the cross-links.
The remainder of the strength loss, which has been described as being due to acid-induced depolymerisation, is permanent and is not reversible upon hydrolysis of the cross-links.

Experimental
Materials: 100% cotton shirting fabric, GSM of 133 is used for applications.
Application by padding
Liquor pick up: 70%
pH: 4-5
Dry: as usual
Cure: 150C for 3 minutes

Guideline Recipes
1. Shirting Fabrics
Commercial DMDHEU: 40-60 g/l
MgCl2: 8-12 g/l

2. Resil Innocelle FSS: 0.5-3%

3. Resil Ultrafab EMS: 0.5-3% + Resil Innocelle FSS: 0.5-3%
4. Resil LFR
: 40-60 g/l
MgCl2
: 8-12 g/l
Resil Ultrafab EMS : 10-30 g/l
Resil Innocelle FSS v: 10-30 g/l

Effect of Amino Silicone on the Strength Properties of Cotton Shirting Fabric

In order to maintain the desired physical properties of finished fabrics and garments, fabric softeners are
frequently used in resin treatment. In a conventional process polyethylene is the most commonly used
additive in durable press finish formulations. Low-amino modified polysiloxane gives better strength
improvement than polyethylene emulsions.

Effect of Combination of Low-amino Modified Silicone and Semi-macro Silicones on the Strength
Properties of Cotton Shirting Fabric
Low-amino modified polysiloxane combined with a blend of amino modified polysiloxane and hydroxy
terminated polysiloxane show better strength improvement than polyethylene emulsions or amino silicones.

Effects of Amino Modified Polyethylene Based Polymer Silicone Softeners and Semi-macro on the
Mechanical Properties of Cotton Shirting Fabric Cross-linked by DMDHEU

Strength loss%

350
300
250
200
150
100
50
0

Warp
Weft
U.TREATED

With
Polyethylene
emulsion

CRA

DP rating

3.5
3
2.5
2
1.5
1
0.5
0

DP rating

U.TREATED

With
Polyethylene
emulsion

DP RATING

Conclusion
Results indicate enhancement in fabric resiliency and softness as well as decrease in fabric strength. The
use of low amino modified polysiloxane combined with a blend of amino modified polysiloxane and hydroxy
terminated polysiloxane as an additive minimises strength loss of the cotton fabric with improvement in
softness because of treatment with resin and catalyst, without creating negative effects on the wrinkle
resistance of the fabric.

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