Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
98
DECEMBER 2014
BONAPPE T IT.COM
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THE H
LID
I
AY
SSU
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F E AT U R E S
78
96
88
INTO THE
WOODS
THE FISH,
THE FOWL &
THE ROAST
Showstopping,
gasp-inducing
centerpiece
entres to secure
your place in family
holiday history.
RECIPES BY
ALISON ROMAN
A double rainbow
of freeze-dried delights
takes our cover cookie
to the next level.
P. 78
8 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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106
Andrew Knowlton
treks deep into the
Norwegian forest for
a snowy, dreamlike
Christmas feastin
a teepee.
ON THE COVER
Lavender Shortbread
with Fruits, Flowers,
and Herbs (for
recipe, see page 84).
Photograph by
Michael Graydon
+ Nikole Herriott.
Food styling by
Susan Spungen.
Prop styling by
Theo Vamvounakis.
PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL GRAYDON + NIKOLE HERRIOTT. FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY THEO VAMVOUNAKIS.
IMMACULATE
CONFECTION
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B O N A P P E T I T. C O M
SSU
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STA RT E R S
T H E B A K I TC H E N
C O LU M N S
19
43
16
THE BA GIFT
GUIDE 2014
Twelve gift-giving
commandments
to steer you right
for the food lovers
on your list.
34
THE BA Q&A
Funnyman
Seth Meyers on
his chimichanga
nightmares.
BY ANDREW PARKS
36
THE BA
CHECKLIST
FAST, EASY,
FRESH
Sizzling shrimp
and other
winter warmers.
BY BA TEST KITCHEN
54
A COOKS GUIDE
TO COOKBOOKS
Eleven cookbooks
for the kitchen
counterthe
bookshelf can wait.
60
THE PARTY
67
THE
OBSESSIVORE
70
NAVIGATOR
127
PREP SCHOOL
Decoding duck,
braiding babkallah,
and more.
38
134
Getting fancy
with the kids on
New Years Eve.
BY JENNY
ROSENSTRACH AND
ANDY WARD
THE PROVIDERS
Somewhere in
this frosty Norwegian
forest, crispy-skinned
pork belly awaits.
R.S.V.P.
BACK OF
THE NAPKIN
IN EVERY ISSUE
14 editors letter
132 recipe index
132 sourcebook
P. 106
THE H
LID
I
AY
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HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? E-mail us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial offices: Bon Apptit, 4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036.
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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I should
not admit this, but
I dont actually have a
copy of Mastering the
Art of French Cooking
and I would very
much like one.
S.R.
Editor in Chief
ADAM RAPOPORT
Creative Director ALEX GROSSMAN
Executive Editor CHRISTINE MUHLKE
Digital Director STACEY C. RIVERA
Managing Editor GREG FERRO
Food Editor CARLA LALLI MUSIC
Deputy Editor SCOTT DESIMON Restaurant & Drinks Editor ANDREW KNOWLTON
Special Projects Editor ASHLEA HALPERN
Senior Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN
Associate Restaurant Editor JULIA KRAMER
Assistant Editor JOANNA SCIARRINO Editorial Assistant BELLE CUSHING
Art Director KRISTIN EDDINGTON
Deputy Art Director MIKE LEY
Designer TIMOTHY MCSWEENEY
Junior Designer ALAINA SULLIVAN
Photo Director ALEX POLLACK
Photo Editor JULIA DUQUETTE PORTER
Associate Photo Editor RACHEL TOMLINSON
Staff Photographer ALEX LAU Photo Assistant ELIZABETH JAIME OSCOFF
Senior Food Editor DAWN PERRY Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS
Senior Associate Food Editor ALISON ROMAN
Assistant Food Editor CLAIRE SAFFITZ
Test Kitchen Manager BRAD LEONE
I know
its not practical
for my tiny apartment
kitchen, but I would
really dig a stainlesssteel KitchenAid stand
mixerwith all of
the attachments.
D.A.
ANNA WINTOUR
Heading
to Tokyo for NYE
and would love Santa
to get me a reservation
at Sukiyabashi Jiro. Or
a bottle of Chichibu
Ichiros Malt. Or both.
What? Ive been
really good!
J.L.
favorite wedding
gift this year was a
bourbon-of-themonth subscription.
Its about to expire.
Send help!
R.D.
Chairman
Chief Executive Officer
President
Chief Financial Officer
PresidentCond Nast Media Group & Chief Marketing Officer
Chief Administrative Officer
Chief Technology Officer
S. I. NEWHOUSE, JR.
CHARLES H. TOWNSEND
ROBERT A. SAUERBERG, JR.
DAVID E. GEITHNER
EDWARD J. MENICHESCHI
JILL BRIGHT
JOE SIMON
Managing DirectorReal Estate ROBERT BENNIS
Senior Vice PresidentMarket Research SCOTT MCDONALD
Senior Vice PresidentBusiness Development JULIE MICHALOWSKI
Senior Vice PresidentHuman Resources JOANN MURRAY
Senior Vice PresidentCorporate Communications PATRICIA RCKENWAGNER
Vice PresidentCN Licensing JOHN KULHAWIK
Vice PresidentStrategic Sourcing TONY TURNER
Vice PresidentDigital Product Development CHRIS JONES
Vice PresidentSpecial Projects PATTY NEWBURGER
Vice PresidentCorporate Communications JOSEPH LIBONATI
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editors letter
THE CROWD-PLEASER
ADAM RAPOPORT
EDITOR IN CHIEF
FOLLOW ADAM ON TWITTER AND INSTAGRAM AT @RAPO4
14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
Recipes for
tomato sauce
and pork are at
bonappetit.com
/edletter
Potato Gnocchi
Get the texture right: Use a light
hand with any extra flour, and
test by cooking one piece first.
Prick 3 lb. scrubbed medium
russet potatoes (6 or 7) all over
with a fork, then bake in a 350
oven directly on the rack until
very tender, about 1 hour. Let
cool slightly. Scrape flesh into
a bowl, then pass through a
food mill or ricer onto a paper
towellined baking sheet (to
absorb excess liquid). Let cool.
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PHOTOGRAPH
B Y C H R I S TO P H E R T E S TA N I
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r. s v p
. WorldMags.net
.
.
Ask
the
Chef
Q: Ive been seeing
squid ink used in
pasta on a lot of
menus. How can I
cook with it at home?
MIMI DW YER,
Letter Rip:
Rage Against the MSG
In our September issue, chef Quealy Watson
of Hot Joy praised the flavor and roundness
of MSG. Based on your letters and comments,
the feeling was not mutual. Keep telling us
how you really feel at askba@bonappetit.com.
1 6 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
PHILIP KRAJECK,
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Thanks,
but no
thanks.
Less is
more.
ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (SALAD); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (PORTRAIT, MSG). FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Potomac, MD
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DEC
ER
EMB
20 1 4
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Those
initials at
the base of
this brass
bottle
opener?
They could
be yours.
See
page 24 for
details.
THE BA
Gift
Guide
2014
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THE
BA Gift Guide
2 of
7
Avenue Road
handblown-glass
container
Reversible meat
tenderizer
$45; areaware.com
3
Hario Buono
copper
pouring kettle
Mauviel copper
mixing bowl
The Shinier
the Gift,
the Happier
the People.
$100;
surlatable.com
$14;
anthropologie.com
Frieling
citrus press
$150; bedbath
andbeyond.com
Gilded Cornet
cake server
Liquid
Body flask
$30; williamssonoma.com
$150;
prima-coffee.com
8
When tastefully
chosen, a little flash
goes a long way.
J OA N N A S C I A R R I N O,
assistant editor
1
4
10
Behold:
the most
beautiful
bread knife
youve ever
seen
handmade
in Japan,
of course.
9
6
GIFT SETS
DONT
HAVE TO BE
LAME.
2 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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This is a
two-in-one
tenderizer:
Remove
the base, flip
the spiky
head, and
youve got
yourself a
flat pounder.
Coffee Collectives
Taster package
Four bags of exceptional directtrade beans from the cult Danish
roaster. $52; coffeecollective.com
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THE
Coolhauss Sammie of
the Month Club
BA Gift Guide
3 of
7
MAKE
IT
PERSONAL.
The key to
getting custom
gifts right is
subtlety: initials
only, barely there
engravings,
and absolutely
no photos.
AS H L E A H A L P E R N ,
special
projects editor
3
Its Okay
to Be
a Little
Selfish.
Penta-Hex brass
bottle opener
The coolest
thing aboutBec
Brittains
hexagonal cap
popper? The
initials etched into
the corner. $53;
sightunseen.com
I love cooking
with my in-laws
during the
holidays, but I
miss my own
knives. Solution:
Send them a
great blade
ahead of time,
then do your
dicing together.
Monogrammed
napkins
These beauties
from Kate
Spade are handembroidered by
Rwandan artisans.
$15 each;
saturday.com
CARLA LALLI
MUSIC,
food editor
GIVE A
GIFT THAT
KEEPS
ON GIVING.
EXPERIENCES
ARE
BETTER THAN
THINGS.
24 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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Long-grain
cutting board
A quality board
will last a lifetime;
brand it and
theyll always know
its theirs. $80;
brooklynbutcher
blocks.com
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THE
BA Gift Guide
4of
7
Mugolio
pine syrup
Sfoglini pasta
Wine Forest
Wild Foods
fennel pollen
Sprinkle on
mushroom
pasta or a
fennel and
celery salad,
or use it to
make the
most delicate
popcorn
youve never
dreamed of.
Make Over
Their
Pantry All
Fancy-Like.
Mustaphas
preserved lemons
$10 for 12.4 oz.;
murrayscheese.com
Delfino colatura
di alici
$15 for 100 ml;
almagourmet.com
8
Emilia vinegar
$45 for 100 ml;
georgepaul
vinegar.com
9
Premium
Kyela rice
Regalis dried
black morels
It might be hard
to justify shelling
out on an
expensive finishing
oil for yourself,
but splurging for
a friend? Thats
what the holidays
are all about.
10
Castillo de Canena
smoked olive oil
Les Moulins
Mahjoub wild
mountain capers
in sea salt
Made in
Brooklyn,
these
noodles
bring
restauranttrendy
ingredients
like rye and
cuttlefish
to the
home pot.
A L I S O N R O M A N ,
senior associate
food editor
4
Drizzle
delicate pine
syrup over
ricotta, crudo,
even vanilla
ice cream.
10
7
For a liquid umami boost, add a dash of this
Italian fish sauce to cooked grains.
26 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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GUTTER
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THE
BA Gift Guide
5of
7
SOME
GIFTS GET
BETTER
WITH AGE.
The newest,
hottest, and latest
is all good, but
its one-of-a-kind
vintage finds that
really get me
going. Whether
its a first-edition
M.F.K. Fisher
or a pamphlet
on microwave
cooking for men,
secondhand
cookbook shops
are absolute
treasure troves.
La Praline
Historique
Birch wood
toothpicks
$8 for 3 oz.;
bellocchio.com
9
Good
Things Come
in Small
Packages.
Actual
size
B E L L E C U S H I N G,
editorial assistant
Raw honeycomb
$15 for 5.5 oz.;
savannahbee.com
Wide angle/macro
iPhone lens
Kaol mints
$14 for 14.5 g;
kioskkiosk.com
$50; photojojo.com
Bonnie Slotnick
Cookbooks, NYC
bonnieslotnick
cookbooks.com
Rabelais,
Biddeford, ME
Saipua soap
$165; quitokeeto.com
Starter garden
seeds
$18; normanncopenhagen.com
Various Projects
keytags
$15; variouskeytags.com
rabelaisbooks.com
Heirloom
Bookshop,
Charleston, SC
GUTTER
10
GIFTS
SHOULD
BE
USEFUL.
Put down the corkscrew shaped like a reproductive organ, and walk away from
the bacon-scented cologne. A gag gift is good for one laugh but not so funny
when youre trying to find space in a tiny apartment for a superfluous object
you feel too guilty to throw away. Spare your friends the indignity and focus on
giving gifts that actually have a function. J U L I A D U Q U E T T E , photo editor
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$28; momastore.org
Twizzlie pops
$9 for a bag of 8;
quincandy.com
Baton lighter
theheirloom
collection.com
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2
THE
BA Gift Guide
6of
7
5
Take risks
when
choosing
flavors.
Vanilla
rooibos and
dark ginger
are two
of our
favorites.
Marou
$9 each;
darkchocolate
imports.com
11
The
Best Gifts
Wrap
Themselves.
Everyone loves
chocolateand the
newest wave of smallbatch bars look as
good as they taste.
ELIZABETH JAIME,
photo assistant
3 0 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
Dandelion
Mazet
Mast Brothers
$8 each; dandelion
chocolate.com
$8 each;
demedici.com
$8 each;
mastbrothers.com
Rogue Chocolatier
Raaka
Comparts
$4$8 each;
raakachocolate.com
$10 each;
compartes.com
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THE
Facundo
Exquisito Rum
BA Gift Guide
7 of
7
Usagi heavyweight
copper cobbler
shaker
The
only wineglasses
theyll ever
need.
$70; cocktail
kingdom.com
Tina Frey
resin ice bucket
$100; dwell.com
Bourbon cocktail
cherries
$16 for 16 oz.; jackrudy
cocktailco.com
Portland
32 oz.
Growlette
with Leash
and 64 oz.
Beer
Growler
Why these
liquors?
Bacardis
new rum
is blended
from
premium
family
reserves;
the mezcal
is singleorigin;
and the
single-malt
Taiwanese
whisky
is complex
beyond
its years.
Gents
cocktail picks
$195 for 8;
ralphlauren
home.com
Mezcal Marca
Negra
Kavalan
King Car
Whisky
$96 for
750 ml; wine
anthology
.com
12
When in
Doubt, Ply
Them with
Alcohol.
Jim Meehan
x Moore &
Giles
bar cart
$13,500;
800-737-0169
for info
3 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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The BA Q&A
So whats New Years Eve like for you?
Well, a few years ago I got the chance to
perform in Atlantic City. But in the end, it
was too depressing for my wifemaking
her sit backstage with some Bud Lights and
a turkey sandwich. After that, we decided
to travel. We were in Mexico last year.
QUESTIONS
FOR
Seth Meyers
The NBC Late
Night host and former
SNL star on office
holiday partiesand
eating like a human
He eats,
he drinks,
he grams,
he tweets.
Follow
Seth at
@seth
meyers.
THE VITALS
Age 40
Homebase
New York City
Favorite cheese
Gouda
Movie snack
Peanut M&Ms
Airplane drink
If Im feeling
Draper, a Dewars
and soda.
Number of times
hes cooked/
crafted with
Martha Stewart
on TV 10
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P H O T O G R A P H B Y DAY M O N
GARDNER
GROOMING BY MICHELLE KEARNS. HAIR BY BETTIE ROGERS. WARDROBE STYLING BY ERIC JUSTIAN. TUXEDO BY CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION.
TUXEDO SHIRT AND BOW TIE BY RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL. CUFF LINKS COURTESY ILENE CHAZANOF, DECORATIVE ARTS, NY.
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The reason
so many
Americans
eat
Chinese.
T
H
E
Instagram
Crushes
du Jour
Dear
Peppermint Bark,
I know what its likefoodie
people laughing at you. Rolling
their eyes when you show up.
Why do they do this? They do
it because they hate themselves.
But you know what? I love you.
I love you in your red-and-white
Williams-Sonoma uniform
($29; williams-sonoma.com).
I love you in your special artisanal
Apothecarys Kitchen outfit
($12; theapothecaryskitchen.com).
But really, I dont even care how
you look; all that matters is how
you tastelike a heaven made
of chocolate and candy canes.
C
H
E
C
K
L
I
S
T
@chef
antoniopark
Sushi gone wild
@punch_drink
Where its
always 5 oclock
Signed,
Your Fan Julia
Everything
you need to eat,
drink, buy,
and mail this
month
@pawkhrua
Andy Rickers
cats (and
Thai food)
@zoenathan
loeb
Perfectly rustic
desserts
by
JULIA KRAMER
LISTENING HOUR
Braise in Me!
As if we could
love these Dansk
enameled-steel
pots any more,
theyre newly
available in a
fun retro green.
From $80;
momastore.org
Crave
($35), now
available
Pot
Three inventive ways to
take your afternoon, evening,
and airplane tea
3 6 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
@dennis
theprescott
Adventures in
sandwiches
REMEMBER 2004?
You will when you flip through Ludo
Lefebvres first cookbook, which the Trois
Mec chef recently reissuedwith many
new photoson its tenth anniversary.
Tempest in a Tea...
@atelier
september
That
Copenhagen
caf life
Pint
Tea-rrific ice cream, in flavors
like Chamomile and Masala
Chai, combines two post-dinner
rituals into one creamy scoop.
$7; tearrificicecream.com
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Tin
Say no to airline-issued tea bags
and yes to the elegant singleestate teas in Silver Needle
Tea Co.s portable Jetsetter tin.
$15; silverneedleteaco.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: DANNY KIM (POTS, TEAPOT, STAMPS, STROP, PEPPERMINT); LIONEL DELUY/CSDIV (CRAVE); ANTONIO PARK (SUSHI); PUNCH
(DRINK); ANDY RICKER (CAT); ZOE NATHAN (DESSERTS); ATELIER SEPTEMBER (CAF); DENNIS PRESCOTT (SANDWICH)
Without her,
thered be no
Sean, Hugh,
or Donald.
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delight by design
garnethill.com
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The Providers
Drinks
Festive Touches
If its fussy, it
works: New Years
Eve is all about oldfashioned finger
foods. Gougres,
fried cheese
sticks, warm crab
dip, and anything
with puff pastry
make the cut.
Cheers! We
pour Martinellis
Sparkling Cider
for the girls,
Billecart-Salmon
Brut Ros
Champagne for us.
Dessert
Dark chocolate
bread pudding
is decadent and
delicious, and,
most important,
offers a place to
stake sparklers
the whole
point of any New
Years party
as far as children
are concerned.
Our daughters
write fortunes
for each of us and
tuck them under
the place cards. Its
always something
sweet, like Maybe
this year Dad will
grow his hair back.
Tiaras, crackers,
squawkers, confetti
(because you sure
cant count on Ryan
Seacrest to keep
you entertained).
Y REBECCA JURKEVICH
PHOTOGRAPH: OWEN FRANKEN/CORBIS
For
the record,
BA endorses
children
chugging
sparkling
cider on New
Years, not
Champagne.
Appetizers
3 8 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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BA
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> R EC I P E S, T I P S, A N D M E N U I D E AS F RO M O U R E X P E RTS
For a pasta
starring your
very own Parm
broth, see
Prep School,
page 131.
PA R M B R O T H
fast,
easy,
fresh
You might say I hoard Parmesan rinds. I save them all year long, freezing them in a resealable bag.
As soon as that first cold front sweeps in, I transform those long-collected ends into a rich and versatile
Parmesan Broth. I start by sauting a halved head of garlic and a quartered onion in some olive oil, along
with a handful of thyme, a few sprigs of parsley, a bay leaf, and a shake of black peppercorns. Once
the garlic is browned, I add a cup of dry white wine and simmer, scraping the pot to get the brown bits
loosened up, until reduced by half. In goes 1 lb. Parmesan rinds and 8 cups of water. The whole thing
simmers until it tastes robust and has reduced by half, about 2 hours. (I stir every now and thenthe rinds
will stick to the bottom of the pot if you let them.) I strain, and then use the broth in vegetable soups,
instant-supper pastas, and beans in need of a boost. Then I start hoarding all over again. Alfia Muzio
P H OTO G R A P H BY T U U K K A KO S K I
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D EC E M B E R 2 0 14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 4 3
FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH
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LU N C H YO U R L E F TOV E R S
Winter Comfort
A warming beef chili gets serious
depth from toasted chiles and a
touch of sweetness from squash
Beef and Squash Chili
ACTIVE 1 HR 10 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN
4 SERVINGS
1
1
3
2
1
1
4
2
1
1
4 4 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
L U N C H A L D E S KO
PA C K I T U P
A N D E N J OY T H E
F R U I TS O F YO U R
L A B O RAGA I N !
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P H OTO G R A P H S B Y E VA KO L E N KO
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FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH
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WHY WE
> BLITZ THE BREAD
Using a blender
rat her t han a food
p ro c e s s o r y i e l d s
a s m o o t h d re s s i n g
and whip s in air
for a l ig ht text u re.
KEY TECHNIQUE
Theres Bread in
My Vinaigrette!
And we like it that way.
Sourdough enriches salad dressing
for a creamy, tangy finish
Radicchio Salad with
Sourdough Dressing
ACTIVE 15 MIN - TOTAL 25 MIN
4 SERVINGS
3 oz. sourdough bread, crust
removed, torn into small pieces
(about 1 cup), divided
1 Tbsp. plus cup olive oil
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 small garlic clove
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. sugar
4 6 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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K I TC H E N
D I S PAT C H
The Day-Old
Dilemma
You know that
sinking feeling
when a good loaf
of bread fades
the next day?
I make sure
it doesnt go to
waste with this
sourdough
vinaigrette. But
thats hardly
your only option:
Turn it into
breadcrumbs to
top pasta, soak
it in milk for
meatballs, or use
it to make (sweet
or savory) bread
pudding. And
of course there
are croutons,
which promise
that stale bread
pulls double duty
in this salad.
Claire Saffitz,
assistant
food editor
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FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH
We e at
these guys
shells a nd
a ll, bu t yo u
c a n su b
i n p eeled
shr i m p
i nste a d.
D a w n P e r r y, s e n i o r f o o d e d i t o r
15-MINUTE MAIN
Salt-and-Pepper Shrimp
5 0 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
1
3
1
1
1
1
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GUTTER
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FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH
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WHY WE
> S TA R T O N T H E S T O V E
FOR COMPLETE
NUTRITIONAL
INFO FOR
THE RECIPES
IN THIS
S T O R Y, G O T O
BONAPPETIT
.C O M / R E C I P E S
S U P E R- S I M P L E
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.
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a cooks
guide to
cookbooks
Forget style-over-substance.
Instead, gift the years releases
that are already getting a serious
workout in our own kitchens
GIFT IT WITH
E ric ksons b ac kpocket flavor trick:
Scalia salt-packed
a n c h ov i e s ($27;
c hefshop.c om).
Prune
Gabrielle
Hamilton
($45)
Hamilton not
only wants you to
cook like a pro
line cook, she wants
you to think like
one too. Her funny,
personal kitchen
notebook brings her
beloved East Village
restaurant to life.
Ive learned how to
pick up that brunch
carbonara that I
prepped ahead, and
I was scolded not
to leave fingerprints
while plating.
You may wonder,
Do I need to make
a whole quart of,
say, brown butter
vinaigrette at a
time? After reading
this book, yes.
T H E N E W V E G E TA R I A N C O O K I N G
F O R E V E R YO N E
DEBORAH MADISON ($40)
GIFT IT WITH
C la ssic Micro plane
($13; us.microplane.com),
for citrus, garlic, and more.
Christine Muhlke,
executive editor
GIFT IT WITH
The pro tool kit:
Sharpie, masking
tape, a n d a
stack of plastic
quart containers.
54 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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PHOTOGRAPHS
GIFT IT WITH
Victo r inox
5" Rosewood
boning knife
($39; cutlery
and more.c om),
so your butcherto-be can start
b re a k i n g d ow n
primals at home.
B Y M E I KO TA K E C H I A R Q U I L L O S
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COOKBOOKS
OF THE YEAR
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P L U S O U R T O P C O F F E E -TA B L E T O M E S O F 2 0 1 4
R E L C H R I S T I A N F. P U G L I S I
E AT I N G W I T H T H E C H E F S
P E R-A N D E R S J R G E N S E N
N E V E R T R U S T A S K I N N Y I TA L I A N C H E F
M ASS I M O B OT T U R A
GIFT IT WITH
A Japane se sty le jigge r ($9;
cocktailkingdom
.com); t hose
cocktails
wont m e a s u re
t h e m s e l ve s .
Claire Saffitz,
assistant food editor
GIFT IT WITH
A piping bag and
p a s t r y t i p s (Ateco
14- Piec e C ake
D ec orat ing Set ,
$20; surlatable.com),
for those cream
puffs and macarons.
LIQUID INTELLIGENCE
D AV E A R N O L D ( $ 3 5 )
GIFT IT WITH
An indestructible mortar and
pestle (Mason Cash medium mortar
a n d p e s t l e, $ 18; a m a zo n .c o m ) .
Twelve Recipes
Cal Peternell ($27)
Chez Panisse chef Peternell wrote this chatty
cookbook as a primer for his sons and covers
everything from toast to special salads,
egg essentials, and classic braiseseven some
desserts. I let my boys select recipes to try
from the photos, then relay Peternells smart
straight-talk advice while we cook together.
Carla Lalli Music, food editor
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GIFT IT WITH
Wa t e r proof waxe d c a nva s
l un c h ba g ($48; kaufmannm erc an t i l e.c o m ), fo r a lu n ch
carrier as chic as its contents.
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THE
PA R T Y
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THE MENU
C AV I A R & A C C O M PA N I M E N T S
raise your
(shot) glass
B E E T- F I L L E D E G G S
SHRIMP OLIVIER
PICKLES!
BREAD & BUTTER
C H A R R E D R O S E M A R Y I N F U S E D V O D K A
This is a
drinking party not
a dinner party.
But that doesnt
mean there wont
be plenty to eat. On
New Years Eve in
Russia, the table is
covered end-to-end
with an astonishing
display of food
tart pickles, bread,
salads, caviar
some homemade,
most purchased.
Shots of icy vodka
are poured, properly
toasted (Za vas!),
gleefully downed,
and chased with a
fortifying snack. At
Portland, Oregons
Kachka, chef Bonnie
Morales cultivates
precisely this kind of
evening. She wants
6 0 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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THE
PA R T Y
> russian new
y e a r s e v e
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Use affordable
vodka fo r
infusing; pour
t he g o o d st u f f
( t r y Ru ssian
S t a n d a rd )
straight.
1 I F YO U WA N T
TO D R I N K LOTS
O F VO D K A , yo u
must eat lots
of food . Fil l ou t
t h e s p re a d w i t h
s l i c e d b re a d
(try challah, rye,
o r l e pyo s h ka
f l a t b re a d ) ,
b u t t e r, a n d a
mix of pickles.
Eat and drink in
tandem during
t he nig ht .
Shrimp Olivier
ACTIVE 35 MIN - TOTAL 35 MIN
8 SERVINGS Morales insists its
not a Russian party without this retro
seafood salad on the table.
4 large Yukon Gold potatoes (about
1 lb.), peeled, cut into " pieces
Kosher salt
2 medium carrots, peeled, cut into
" pieces
cup fresh peas (from about lb.
pods) or frozen peas, thawed
1 lb. peeled rock shrimp or bay
shrimp
lb. medium shrimp, peeled,
deveined
4 hard-boiled large eggs, finely
chopped
4 Israeli-style pickles or 2 kosher dill
pickles, cut into " pieces
1 small sweet onion (such as Vidalia),
finely chopped
cup coarsely chopped fresh dill,
plus sprigs for serving
cup (or more) Parsley Mayo
(see recipe)
6 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
2 FREEZE
YO U R VO D K A .
Bring ou t t he
bottle only to
pour into small
pitchers or shot
g l a s s e s b e fo re
eac h t oast .
3 A L L YO U
NEED ARE
SHOT GLASSES.
Re sp onsib l e
host trick: Get
the smallest
o n e s yo u c a n .
4 H E R ES
TO T H E TOASTS.
Maintain the
rhy t hm: A f ter
a heartfelt toast,
everyone raises
their glasses
and drinks. Then
comes eating,
then the process
re p e a t s . Two
addendums:
N o d rink ing
without toasts,
and no drinking
between toasts!
Parsley Mayo
ACTIVE 5 MIN - TOTAL 5 MIN
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS At Kachka, they
make mayo from scratch. But Hellmanns
(a.k.a. Best Foods) will do just fine.
Pulse 1 cups (packed) fresh parsley
leaves, 1 cups mayonnaise, and
2 Tbsp. mustard in a food processor until
smooth; season with salt and pepper.
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THE
PA R T Y
> russian new
y e a r s e v e
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GO WITH
THE ROE
A FEW
POINTERS
ON SERVING
C AV I A R
WITH ST YLE
- Mother-of-pearl
spoons are t he g ol d
s t and ard for serving,
but Morales also likes
those plastic samp l e
o n e s u s e d a t i c e c re a m
parlors. Just be sure
to avoid silver or steel.
- To go luxe , set ou t
blinis, challah, chopped
c hives, sieved hard b oil ed eg g yol ks, and
cultured butter or crme
f rac he. For a c asu al
setup, put out butter,
whit e b read , and roe.
Beet-Filled Eggs
ACTIVE 20 MIN - TOTAL 2 HR 20 MIN
8 SERVINGS Save the hard-boiled egg
yolks for your caviar accoutrements.
2 medium red beets, scrubbed
1 garlic clove, finely grated
cup Parsley Mayo (see recipe
on page 62)
cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
cup prunes, chopped
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
cup store-bought pickled beets,
finely chopped
8 hard-boiled large eggs
1 small golden beet, peeled,
halved, thinly sliced
Preheat oven to 375. Wrap red beets
in foil and roast directly on the rack until
a knife slides easily through the center,
12 hours; let cool. Rub off skins with
a paper towel; coarsely chop.
Pulse chopped red beets, garlic,
Parsley Mayo, walnuts, prunes, and lemon
juice in a food processor until smooth;
64 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
Yeasted Blinis
ACTIVE 1 HR 30 MIN - TOTAL 5 HR
8 SERVINGS (MAKES 80) These are great
at room temperature, so cook them (using
two skillets at a time!) an hour ahead.
1
2
2
2
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Crushed ice
m a ke s fo r a n i c e
presentation, but
its not strictly
n ec essa r y.
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THE
OBSESSIVORE
I t s t h e t h o u g h t t h a t c o u n t s ,
right? Mmm...maybe not.
total fruitcake
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D EC E M B E R 2 0 14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 67
THE
OBSESSIVORE
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To g e t t h e r e c i p e f o r t h i s h e r e c r e a t i o n , t h e O b s e s s i v o r es n e w a n d
i m p r o v e d f r u i t c a k e , g o t o b o n a p p e t i t . c o m /o b s e s s i v o r e
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> C I T Y G U I D E / m a r r a ke c h
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navigator
GET BAS
TA K E O N
MORE OF OUR
FAV E F O O D
C I T I E S AT
BONAPPETIT
.C O M / T R AV E L
It may be
a tourist spot,
but Le Grand
Balcon du
Caf Glaciers
sunset views
of Jemaa
el-Fna are hard
to beat.
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PPH
HO
OTTO
OG
GRRA
APPH
HSS BBYY N
AA
LM
AN
E JT EKN
TS
K ET N
K
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N AV I G AT O R
> m a r ra ke c h
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The Food
The
Restaurant
Hit List
La Mamounia
Marrakechs
original grandedame hotel
is ideal for
couples and
honeymooners
seeking
inventive food,
a sumptuous
spa, and an intown location.
MOROCCAN
FOOD 101
Al Fassia
Run by a group of
local women, this is
the place to discover
real Moroccan
home cooking,
including dozens
of salads, tagines
(meat, poultry, or fish
braised in a conical
ceramic dish with
various garnishes),
and bsteeyaflaky
sweet-and-savory
pastries filled
with minced squab.
Royal Mansour
Built in 2010
by the king of
Morocco as the
quintessential
showcase of
local design and
craftsmanship,
this nine-acre
compound is the
place to pull
out all the stops.
El Fenn
Fenn is local
sl ang for c ool ,
and staying at
this exquisitely
decorated riad
hotel gives you
an inside track
to everything
fenn in town.
HANG WITH
THE LOCALS
Nomad
With an intriguingly
perfumed location in
the bustling Rahba
Kedima spice market,
this new restaurant
does terrific
Moroccan salads and
sidescarrots with
cumin or roasted
eggplanttomato
and tagines. Profits
from the daily special
go to a local charity.
THE DELICIOUS
DECOR
Dar Moha
Moroccan food-TV
star Moha Fedal has
a superb restaurant
that occupies a plush
19th-century riad.
His tasting menu runs
to refined dishes like
monkfish bsteeya and
foie gras couscous.
GET A ROOM
Fo r a d d re s s e s o f t h e re s t a u ra n t s
and other spots in this story, see
Sourcebook on page 132.
THE MICHELIN
CONTENDER
Gastro MK
If there were a
Moroccan Michelin
Guide, chef Omar
El Ouahssoussi would
easily snag a star
for his five-course
Euro-Moroccan
tasting menu of
dishes like breaded
The Crawl
Food Stalls
in Jemaa el-Fna
At sundown, the plaza of Jemaa el-Fna
becomes one of the worlds most
dazzling markets. Heres the must-try list.
7 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
H A R D -T O FIND DISHES
MOROCCAN
FA S T F O O D
La Maison Arabe
Caf Clock
The famous
lamb tagine with
caramelized oranges
and a sauce of the
meats juices, saffron,
turmeric, and ginger
Clockwise
f r o m to p
left: Dinner
at Jemaa
e l - Fn a ; c a m e l
burger at Caf
Clock; spa
l o b by a t Roy a l
M a n s o u r;
salad spread
a t A l Fa s s i a .
Fellah Hotel
An art-loving
couple opened
this country
retreat on a
farm 20 minutes
outside of
Marrakech.
Warning: With its
dreamy setting
and huge jadegreen pool,
you may never
want to leave.
SNAILS
MERGUEZ
HARIRA SOUP
Cooked in a
fabulously funky
broth seasoned
with thyme,
caraway seeds,
mint, red pepper,
green tea, and
sometimes star
anise. Get em
at stall Nos. 16.
Dont be timid.
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N AV I G AT O R
> m a r ra ke c h
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T H E A R M C H A I R T R AV E L E R
The Neighborhood
Guliz
Designed when Morocco was a French
protectorate, this orange treelined area west
of the Medina has an Art Deco charm and,
more recently, a kind of downtown-NYC vibe.
Highlights include:
Kechmara
Dining hours in
Marrakech tend to be
strict, so this stylish
nonstop bistro is just
the ticket for all-day
breakfastdont miss
the eggs en cocotte
with Roquefort.
J a rd i n e l H a r t i
U LT I M AT E C A F
Le G rand Caf
de la Poste
Feqqas at Al Jawda
33 Rue Majorelle
The ultimate
Moroccan concept
store, selling home
furnishings and riffs
on the countrys
traditional leather
slippers (pictured
left) by designer
Hassan Hajjaj.
THE
D A Y T R IP
TA G I N E
Akkal does
striking modern
Moroccan
kitchen ceramics
in bold
solid colors.
WHERE
ESSAOUIRA
H O W FA R
110 MILES WEST
OF MARRAKECH
WHY
C O A S TA L O A S I S
76 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
JAM
Delicious
homemade
confitures,
including bitter
orange, from
Ain Kassimou.
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PA ST RY
Modern takes on
classic Moroccan
gazelle horns
from ODyafy
pastry shop.
B E ST PA ST RY
Al Jawda
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P. 84
L AV E N D E R
S H O RT B R E A D
W I T H F RU I T S,
F LOW E RS,
AND HERBS
IMMACULATE
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CONFECTION
Its not just about
cookies anymore.
The coolest sweets
of the season are
brought to you
by William Werner,
the brains behind
San Franciscos
ultramodern
patisserie Craftsman
and Wolves
Photographs by
M I C H A E L G R AY D O N +
N I KO L E H E R R I OT T
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G i f t Yo u r s e l f
This recipe makes more
bourbon sugar than youll need,
and thats a good thing. Use it
to top tea cakes and sprinkle
over cookies before baking or
to sweeten your morning
coffee (we wont tell).
P. 86
C H O C O L AT E
FUDGE WITH
B O U R B O N SU GA R
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P. 86
M ATC H AW H I T E
C H O C O L AT E
SU GA R C O O K I E S
Te a Pairings
White chocolate and green
tea are a dream team, but
this cookie can party with
plenty of other mix-ins as
well. Try also adding a
little chopped candied
ginger or dried
apricots.
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F l ex Yo u r B r i t t l e
The thin, shatteringly crisp
consistency of this brittle is
what sets it apart. The key?
Kneading and stretching it
while hot. Watch how at
bonappetit.com
/holidays
P. 86
G O L D E N CAS H E WC U R RY B R I T T L E
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P. 87
SA F F RO N - P E A R
LO L L I P O P S
Pop Star
You dont need a
special mold to make
these. Just pour the
circles a touch smaller
than youd like;
they grow larger
as they pool.
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BA Wreath
Expert
These deceptively simple
lavender shortbread
wreaths will rule your next
cookie swap. See below
for how to pull them off
or watch our video at
bonappetit.com/holidays.
STEP 1
A b ove : Lavender Shor tbre ad wre aths decorated with ever y thing
from c andied rosemar y to freeze-dried blueberries.
STEP 2
GLAZE
1
2
1
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STEP 3
STEP 4
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Mallow Out
To ensure perfectly square
edges, you need a dry
surface and a clean, dry knife.
Sprinkle moisture-absorbing
powdered sugar on the cutting
board and marshmallows,
and rinse and dry your
knife between slices
as needed.
P. 87
B LO O D O R A N G E
AND COCONUT
M A RS H M A L LOWS
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Chocolate Fudge
with Bourbon Sugar
MAKES 32 The exceptional texture and
glossy sheen of this fudge result from the
way you mix it. Make sure the chocolate
and condensed milk are barely hot.
BOURBON SUGAR
MatchaWhite Chocolate
Sugar Cookies
MAKES 24 Powdered green tea gives
these tender cookies an elf-worthy
hue that will stand out, with no icing
or decorating needed.
Golden Cashew-Curry
Brittle
8 SERVINGS Everyone loves brittle, and
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FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY THEO VAMVOUNAKIS. ILLUSTRATIONS BY MAT WILLIAMS.
Saffron-Pear Lollipops
MAKES 30 Anchor these in short
vases filled with granulated sugar and
win sweetest decor award.
a candy thermometer
Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with
silicone baking mats or parchment paper
(lightly coat parchment with nonstick
spray). Have lollipop sticks, candied
ginger, and extra saffron at the ready.
Place sugar and tsp. saffron in a
food processor; scrape in vanilla seeds
(reserve pod for another use). Pulse to
5
5
thermometer
BLOOD ORANGE LAYER Line a 13x9"
rimmed baking sheet (or use a 13x9"
baking pan; marshmallows will be a
bit taller) with a silicone baking mat or
parchment paper and lightly coat with
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THE
THE
( ROAST DUCKS
W I T H P OTATO E S,
FIGS, AND
R O S E M A R Y P. 9 2 )
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& THE
CE L E B R AT E . P U L L O U T A L L T H E S T O P S .
M A K E D I N N E R S YO U L L B E TA L K I N G A B O U T U N T I L
NEXT DECEMBER. THESE ARE THE
MAIN COURSES GUARANTEED TO IMPRESS
by ALISON ROMAN
photographs by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI
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( S A LT- B A K E D
WITH CITRUS AND
H E R B S P. 9 5 )
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( BRAISED
SHANKS WITH
BACONPARMESAN
C R U M B S P. 9 5 )
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R OA ST D U C K S W I T H P OTATO E S,
FIGS, AND ROSEMARY
8 SERVINGS
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( HORSERADISHA N D - PA R S L E YSTUFFED RIB-EYE
ROAST )
TEMPERATURE
TALK
Overcooking
a precious (and
pricey) piece
of meat like this
one would be
a sin, so invest
in a digital
thermometer
to alleviate
any guesswork.
The internal
temperature
will climb more
quickly toward
the end, and
carryover cooking
will spike it
further, so start
checking about
an hour and 35
minutes into the
roasting time.
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( P O M E G R A N AT E AND-FENNEL-GLAZED
R A C K S P. 9 2 )
ORDER OF
OPERATIONS
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FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ROMAN (OPENER); SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.
LETTERING AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY ALAINA SULLIVAN.
S A LT- B A K E D S A L M O N
WITH CITRUS AND HERBS
8 SERVINGS It can be hard to
gauge whats happening under all that
salt, but these times are accurate.
If your fish is on the smaller side, take
it out on the lower end of the range.
SALMON
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TIS THE
SEASON(ING)
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The Ham
The Glaze
The Fixins
THE BASE
CUP BITTER ORANGE MARMALADE
SWEET
CUP
S P I CY
1 T B S P.
Adobo sauce
Aleppo pepper
Spicy Dijonmustard
BOOZ Y
3 T B S P.
Bourbon
Cognac
Dark rum
PA RT Y O N A
SCHOOL NIGHT
98 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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O N H A N U K K A H , G I V E T H E G I F T O F L AT K E T O P P I N G S . Warning: If you serve the following with latkes, your family might
freak out. But if you dont serve the following (in addition to applesauce and sour cream), theyll never know what theyre missing.
Labneh and pomegranate seeds Greek yogurt and maple syrup An herby aioli Prepared horseradish mixed with sour cream
A Candy Bowl
Is Never Overkill
Who doesnt like their rugelach and Christmas cookies
with a side of peppermint snaps, salted caramels, and
hand-pulled taffy? Joanna Sciarrino, assistant editor
Three favorites: Bergamot salt water taffy takes us away to the
beach, $7; thesaltyroad.com. Goat milk caramels have a depth
others only hint at, $8; bigpicturefarm.com. Peppermint snaps
mix chocolate and mint (below), $26; williams-sonoma.com.
Drink Like T H E F O O D I ST
The holidays. Every night is
another chance to imbibe.
It adds up fast. So if you drink,
you need rules. Here are my
Dos and Donts of the season.
1 Do drink the punch. Just
remember: It might be all cute
and pink and bubbly, but its
potent. Proceed with caution.
2 Do stick with one type
of booze on any given night:
liquor, beer, or wine. The
exception: a shot and a beer.
WARDROBE STYLING BY SHEYNA IMM. RING BY ALDO. DRESS BY REBECCA MINKOFF. OPENER: SHIRT BY ZARA. TIE BY TOPSHOP.
The Jimmie
Roosevelt
A classic
Champagne
cocktail
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D EC E M B E R 2 0 14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 99
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DO AHEAD
Dough (before
rising) can be
made 1 day
ahead; chill until
ready to use.
The Cronut? So 2013. Introducing our test kitchens hybrid baby, the Babkallah. Braided
like a challah for maximum babka-y chocolate swirl in every bite, it will make your original
Houseguest Breakfast Plan (i.e., Theres Raisin Bran in the cupboard!) look a little, well, lame.
Whats even better? Using it to make ultradecadent French toast.
1 0 0 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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DO THE TWIST
Braiding our
Babkallah is easy.
For a how-to, see
Prep School, p. 127.
WorldMags.net
Chocolate-Cinnamon Babkallah
DOUGH
1
4
1
G E T C R AC K I N G
Stainless-steel
nutcracker and oak
bowl, $195;
georgjensen.com
Forget Caroling. Be a
Jukebox Hero This Year
Did you know Elvis, Neil Young, and Johnny Cash did
awesome versions of The Little Drummer Boy? I didnt, until
my dad made me a holiday mix tape. Christmas music
by artists I already lovenow a Roman family tradition.
Alison Roman, senior associate food editor
Stream our BA holiday playlist this season at bonappetit.com/holidays
M A K E A C L A S S I C M O V I E YO U R N E W Y U L E L O G
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D EC E M B E R 2 0 14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 1 0 1
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THE RIGHT
BUBBLES ARE NO
TROUBLE
Champagnethe
real stuffis the
one New YearsEve
sparkler that
rules them all. Let
David Lynch,
BAs Wine Insider,
guide you through
the different
levels of the worlds
best bubbly.
N O. 1
N O. 3
Intimate night.
Fire. Couch.
Time to dig
deep. The choice?
Jacques Selosse
NV Initiale Brut
($170): If you cant
close after a couple
glasses of this,
we cant help you.
Spare yourself the waxy taste of the meh gelt. Chicago-based Veruca
Chocolates makes (kosher-certified) Gelt for Grown-Ups, airbrushed
coins featuring ingredients like sea salt. $15; verucachocolates.com
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N O. 2
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Please
Everyone,
Even Your
Vegan Aunt
This one-dish wonder grants you immunity
from even the most gluten-averse, meatabstaining, fat-conscious houseguests.
And the spicy vegetarian curry tastes as
good as ever reheated.
Sweet Potato Curry
1 lemongrass stalk, tough outer layer
removed, coarsely chopped
1 2" piece ginger, peeled, chopped
4 garlic cloves
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
Kosher salt
cup red curry paste
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 14.5-oz. can crushed tomatoes
2 13.5-oz. cans coconut milk
1 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled, cut into
1" pieces
lb. small or young carrots, peeled,
cut on a diagonal into 2" pieces
6 medium shallots, peeled keeping
roots intact, quartered lengthwise
1 red Thai chile, thinly sliced (optional)
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
Steamed jasmine rice (for serving)
Thinly sliced scallions, basil leaves,
cilantro leaves with tender stems,
and lime wedges (for serving)
6
4
1. Bees Knees
Spicy Honey $14;
mixedmade.com
2. Sir Kensingtons
Chipotle Mayonnaise
$6; vitacost.com
3. Victoria Amory
Roasted Garlic
Mayonnaise 3 for $20;
victoriaamory.com
4. Edmond Fallot
Horseradish
Dijon Mustard $6;
thefrenchybee.com
5. Ricks Picks Hotties
$7; rickspicks.com
6. Peppadew Whole
Sweet Piquant
Peppers $9;
murrayscheese.com
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D EC E M B E R 2 0 14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 1 0 3
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In a classic case of more
is more, a beach-ball-size bowl
of eggnog or puncheven
a stockpot of mulled anything
turns any house into holiday
central. But wait, you say, think
about the children! We do.
We always serve a bowl minus
the booze for the kids.
B O W L GA M E S
P R O F I T F R O M FA M I LY T I M E
1 04 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
Who needs Secret Santa? My family plays Left Right Center ($9; amazon.com), a dice game
simple enough for a five-year-old. Everyone ponies up $15, so its one case where the more
relatives, the better. Higher stakes mean high excitement, especially for the person who wins all
that cashIm looking at you, Grandma! Dan Aldworth, associate director, public relations
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FEAST ON SEVEN
FA B U L O U S F I S H E S
You dont have to be named Sal to adopt the Feast of the Seven Fishes. But you do need a good
fishmonger. Honolulu Fish Company (honolulufish.com) ships wild-caught fish like opakapaka,
king salmon, and albacore tuna overnight. Now, mangia.
FIG-POWERED
cheesecloth
Combine cashews, hazelnuts, and
4 cups hot water in a blender or a large
bowl. Tie up orange zest, cinnamon,
star anise, and cloves in a layer of
cheesecloth. Lightly crush spices with
a wooden spoon to release oils and
add to nut mixture. Let sit overnight.
Remove spice bundle; discard.
Blend nut mixture 2 minutes. Strain
through a fine-mesh sieve lined with
a layer of cheesecloth into a large
pitcher, squeezing out as much liquid
as possible. Whisk coconut milk,
agave, and vanilla into nut milk. Cover
and chill until cold, at least 3 hours.
Just before serving, beat egg
whites in a medium bowl to soft peaks;
beat in powdered sugar, cornstarch,
and cream of tartar. Combine rum, if
using, and nut milk mixture in a
punch bowl. Top with meringue and
sprinkle with nutmeg.
DO AHEAD: Nut milk mixture can be
made 5 days ahead. Keep chilled.
12 servings
Be Prepared to
Play Santa at All Times
The UPS guy. The math teacher. And howd you forget your kids
friends parents? Avoid beating yourself up and make a batch
of giftable fig-quince preserves. Pack it in cute jars and youre
ready to hand out gratitude. If theres some left over, all the
better. Its the perfect boost for that sandwich buffet (see No. 12).
Get the recipe for Quince and Mission Fig Preserves at bonappetit.com/holidays
A L WAY S WA N T E D A G I A N T S U B - Z E R O F R I D G E ?
I T S C A L L E D YO U R B A C K P O R C H
FEELING PUNCHY?
Put that deck or unheated garage to use. It can keep your pie
chilled, your buttercream set, your whipped cream cake
safe, your beverages coldand your actual fridge manageable.
Stacey Rivera, digital director
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D EC E M B E R 2 0 14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 1 0 5
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Smalhans chefs
Anders Braathen,
left, and Jon Marius
Sletten arrive early
to prepare dinner.
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Does it get any
more Scandi than
Food Studio
volunteer Sandra
Arvidsson?
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HERRING IN MUSTARD SOUR
CREAM ON RYE BREAD
1 14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
LEFSE
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TO G ET T H E
R EC I P E FO R T H E
AQ UAV I T TO D DY,
G O TO B O N A P P E T I T
.C O M / N O RWAY
The Food
Studio gang, plus
guests, sipping
toddies around
a roaring fire
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B E E R - B R A I S E D P O R K B E L LY
8 SERVINGS The closer together you
FOOD STYLING BY ANDERS BRAATHEN AND JON MARIUS SLETTEN FROM SMALHANS. PROP STYLING BY RUNA KLOCK AND CAROLINE MAGNUS FROM FOOD STUDIO. ILLUSTRATIONS BY KARINA EIBATOVA.
SHOT ON LOCATION AT DREYER HENSLEY STUDIO AND OSLO VINTERPARK. CREW FOOD BY JULIE ILONA BALAS FROM MATBLOGGEN AT GRAYZINE.NO. PRODUCTION BY FOOD STUDIO.
ALMOND-BARLEY PORRIDGE
WITH FRUIT COMPOTE
cup sugar
cup dried cherries, divided
PORRIDGE
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Hotel Guldsmeden is
the only organic hotel chain
in Norway. Its breakfast of
fresh breads and fruit is reason
enough to book a room.
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P RO M OT I O N
Photograph by Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott (cover). Apple, the Apple logo, and iPad are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Amazon, Kindle, Kindle Fire, and
the Amazon Kindle logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. NOOK Color and NOOK Tablet are trademarks of Barnes & Noble, Inc. Google Play is a trademark of Google Inc.
It Pairs
Perfectly
BON APPTIT
Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685
showing the Ownership, Management and
Circulation of BON APPTIT,
published monthly (12 issues) for October 1,
2014. Publication No. 504-750.
Annual subscription price $24.00.
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Business Offices of the Publisher is
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3. The names and addresses of the Publisher,
Editor and Managing Editor are:
Publisher, Pamela Drucker Mann,
4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036;
Editor, Adam Rapoport,
4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036;
Managing Editor, Greg Ferro,
4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036.
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Publishers Inc., published through its
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New York, New York 10036. Stockholder:
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corporations to the ultimate corporate
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950 Fingerboard Road, Staten Island,
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Average No. Copies
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each issue during
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preceding 12 months
filing date
1,647,175
b. Paid Circulation
(1) Mailed Outside-County Paid
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Stated on PS Form 3541
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prep school
TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPTIT TEST KITCHEN
1. Divide the
dough into thirds.
Roll out each piece
to a 12x10" rectangle,
brush with butter,
and sprinkle with a
third of the chocolatecinnamon filling.
2. Roll each rectangle
into a long rope
and pinch seams to
seal. Place side by
side, seam side down,
on a baking sheet;
pinch together the
three far ends.
3. Braid the strands,
pinching near ends
together and tucking
under when done.
Dont braid too
tightly, as the bread
will expand during
the second rise.
E A SY A S 1, 2, 3
FROM P. 101 The impressively decadent chocolate-cinnamon swirl in the babkallah, our babka-challah
hybrid, only looks complicated. Once the dough is done, this ultimate holiday bread is no harder to make
than a basic three-strand braid. Heres how to do it. CLAIRE SAFFITZ
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D EC E M B E R 2 0 14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 1 27
PREP SCHOOL
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BIG ON FIGS
FROM P. 105 The
honeyed sweetness
of fresh figs is a
worthy indulgence.
When buying either
black- or brown-skin
varieties like Mission
(A) and Turkish (B),
or green-skinned such
as candy stripe (C),
look for unblemished
fruits and ripen them
at room temperature.
Figs are great eaten
out of hand but even
better tossed in
a salad, served with
cheese, stirred into
yogurt, or used as
a jelly substitute in
a PB&J. C.S.
SHIP SHAPE
A.
DUCK!
C.
1 28 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 20 14
The keyto
holiday
shopping?
Do as much
as possible
in advance.
Order your
centerpiece
meat from
your butcher
a month
ahead.
A week
before, hit
the market
for root
veg, garlic,
and onions.
B.
Brad Leone,
test kitchen manager
WorldMags.net
Check
staples that
may need
restocking,
especially
spices. That
mace from
seven years
ago? Toss it.
And dont
forget to
shop for the
morning
after: Youre
gonna need
syrup for that
French toast.
Find neat-o
wrappers for
your lollies at
baking supply
stores or at
michaels.com.
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ADVERTISEMENT
CondeNastCollection.com
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Images Cond Nast Archive. All Rights Reserved.
PREP SCHOOL
WorldMags.net
A BEAUTIFUL
RIND
FROM P. 43
Parmesan broth is a
versatile player in our
kitchen, lending a
subtle yet funky depth
to many things. But
when we really want
it to flex its flavor
muscles, we use it as
the base for this classic
dish from Bologna. One
Capellini en Brodo
The pasta absorbs the flavor of
the broth as it cooks, and the
pasta starches thicken the liquid
to a lip-smacking consistency.
Cook 2 oz. capellini pasta and
2 cups Parmesan Broth (see
recipe, page 43) in a large skillet
over medium heat, stirring, until
pasta is al dente and broth is
reduced and thickened, about
3 minutes (if too thick, thin
with more broth). Divide pasta
between bowls; twist into tight
nests. Add broth and top each
with 1 large egg yolk, grated
Parmesan, thyme leaves, and
pepper. 2 servings
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
T H E STA R O N TO P
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sourcebook
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MAIN COURSES
SIDE DISH
SHOPPING LIST
Lavender Shortbread
with Fruits, Flowers,
and Herbs p.84
SEAFOOD
CONDIMENTS,
MISCELLANEOUS
DESSERTS
TRAVEL PLANNER
APPETIZERS
Beet-Filled Eggs p.64
Cured Arctic Char p.114
Herring in Mustard
Sour Cream on
Rye Bread p.114
Lefse p.114
Shrimp Olivier
p.62
Yeasted Blinis
p.64
BEVERAGES
Cashew Nut Nog
p.105
Charred Rosemary
Infused Vodka
p.62
The Jimmie Roosevelt
p.99
BREADS
Chocolate-Cinnamon
Babkallah p.101
Lefse p.114
Yeasted Blinis p.64
SALADS
Cabbage and
Apple Salad p.114
Celery Caesar Salad
p.16
Radicchio Salad with
Sourdough Dressing
p.46
Salt-and-Pepper Shrimp
p.50
Salt-Baked Salmon with
Citrus and Herbs p.95
MEAT
Almond-Barley
Porridge with Fruit
Compote p.117
CANDY
Lavender Shortbread
with Fruits, Flowers,
and Herbs p.84
MatchaWhite
Chocolate Sugar
Cookies p.86
PASTA
Capellini en Brodo
p.131
Sweet Potato Curry
p.103
FOR NUTRITIONAL
INFORMATION FOR
THE RECIPES
IN THIS ISSUE,
GO TO BONAPPETIT
.COM/RECIPES
R.S.V.P. p. 16
FRANK & ALBERTS 2400 E. Missouri Ave., Phoenix; 602-381-7632;
arizonabiltmore.com
HOT JOY 1014 S. Alamo St., San Antonio; 210-368-9324; hotjoysa.com
ROLF AND DAUGHTERS 700 Taylor St., Nashville; 615-866-9897; rolfanddaughters.com
THE PROVIDERS p. 38
THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON 439 Main St., Washington, VA; 540-675-3800;
theinnatlittlewashington.com
RAISE YOUR (SHOT) GLASS pp. 6064
KACHKA 720 S.E. Grand Ave., Portland, OR; 503-235-0059; kachkapdx.com
NAVIGATOR: MARRAKECH pp. 7076
33 RUE MAJORELLE 33 rue Yves Saint Laurent; +212-524-31-41-95;
33ruemajorelle.com
AKKAL 219 Quartier Industriel Sidi Ghanem, Route de Safi; +212-524-33-59-38
AL FASSIA 55 boulevard Zerktouni; +212-524-43-40-60; alfassia.com
AL JAWDA 11 rue de la Libert; +212-524-43-38-97
CAF CLOCK 224 Derb Chtouka; +212-524-37-83-67; marrakech.cafeclock.com
COOPRATIVE FMININE ARGANE EL KHEIR Douar Oualja, Route 207;
Tleta-El Henchane; +212-524-79-01-10; arganelkheir.com
DAR MOHA 81 rue Dar el Bacha; +212-524-38-64-00; darmoha.ma
DAVID BLOCH GALLERY 8 bis rue des Vieux Marrakchis; +212-524-45-75-95;
davidblochgallery.com
DOMAINE DU VAL DARGAN Route de Casablanca, Ounagha; +212-660-24-18-93;
valdargan.com
EL FENN 2 Derb Moullay Abdullah Ben Hezzian; +212-524-44-12-10;
el-fenn.com
FELLAH HOTEL Km. 13, Route de lOurika, Tassoultante, Canal Zarraba;
+212-525-06-50-00; fellah-hotel.com
GASTRO MK 14 Derb Sebaai; +212-661-09-61-27; maisonmk.com/dining.htm
JACK IS BACK 10 boulevard Oued al Makhazine; +212-524-43-38-90
JARDIN MAJORELLE Rue Yves Saint Laurent; +212-524-31-30-47; jardinmajorelle.com
KECHMARA 3 rue de la Libert; +212-524-43-35-26; kechmara.com
LA MAISON ARABE 1 Derb Assehb; +212-524-38-70-10; lamaisonarabe.com
LA MAMOUNIA Avenue Bab Jdid; +212-524-38-86-00; mamounia.com
LE GRAND CAF DE LA POSTE Boulevard el Mansour Eddahbi; +212-524-40-30-38
NOMAD 1 Derb Arjaan; +212-524-38-16-09; nomadmarrakech.com
ODYAFY 234 Avenue Mohammed V; +212-524-42-26-26; odyafy.com
ROYAL MANSOUR Rue Abou Abbas el Sebti; +212-529-80-80-80; royalmansour.com
BON APPTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 2014 COND NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 59, NO. 12. Bon Apptit (ISSN 0006-6990)
is published monthly by Cond Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: The Cond Nast Building, 4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles
H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional
mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box
874, Station Main, Markham, ON L3P 8L4. POSTMASTER: SEND ALL UAA TO CFS. (SEE DMM 707.4.12.5); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: SEND ADDRESS CORRECTIONS TO Bon Apptit, P.O. Box 37614, Boone,
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on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Apptit Magazine, 4 Times Square, New
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RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND
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1 3 2 BO N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 20 14
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PROMISES, PROMISES
Giorgio Armani
BUON NATALE!
Classic Italian
desserts like
panettone are
simple and
sophisticated.
Panettone
and
presents,
drawn in
Milan on
September
23, 2014
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PHOTOGRAPH
B Y M E I KO TA K E C H I A R Q U I L L O S
PROP STYLING BY BOBBI LIN. PLATES COURTESY ARMANI/CASA. ILLUSTRATION BY MAT WILLIAMS.
FOR PRODUCT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
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