Fibre:

Fibre is a type of material having continuous filaments and somewhat similar to lengths of
thread. They can either be spun or twisted into yarns or can also be directly compressed into
fabric.

The textile, home furnishing industry makes used of many different types of fibres as its raw
materials. There are a number of factors influencing the development and utilization of all
different fibres. These include:

• Ability to be spun
• Availability in sufficient quantity
• Economy of production
• Properties desired for manufacturing a particular product.

Kinds of Fibre:

Fibres can be classified into:

• Natural Fibre: These fibres can be sourced from plants, animals and minerals.

Types of natural fibres:

- Vegetable Fibres
- Animal Fibres
- Mineral Fibres

• Man Made Fibre: These fibres include cellulosic and non cellulosic polymer fibres.
The fibres can also be sourced from mineral fibres, metallic fibres and rubber fibres.

TYPE NAME OF FIBRE SOURCE

Natural Fibers
Vegetable Fibres Cotton Fibre Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres Linen Fibre Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres Jute Fibre Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres Hemp Fibre Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres Sisal Fibre Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres Kapok Fibre Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres Ramie Fibre Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres Coir Fibre Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres Pina Fibre Cellulose
Animal Fibres Wool Fibre Protein
Animal Fibres Silk Fibre Protein
Mineral Fibres Asbestos Fibre Varieties of Rock
Cotton Fibre
Cotton is a natural fibre, growing in the seed pod, or boll of the cotton plant. The fibre is
composed of about 90 % cellulose and around 6% moisture. The rest consists of natural
impurities.

Cotton has been cultivated for more than 5000 years. It has traditionally been used for textile
purposes. Different types of cotton with distinctive
properties have been used for industrial applications
and home furnishings.
Properties of cotton fibre:

Strength:

1. It is relatively strong.
2. Strength of fibre can be defined by the ability to
resist of being pulled or torn apart when
undergoes to tension.

Elasticity:
Elasticity means the extent to which a fibre can be elongated by tension & then return to its
original shape.

Resilience:
1. It means the extent to which a fabric can be deformed by compression & return to its
original condition.
2. Finishing process does a lot to improve wrinkle resistant quality of cotton goods.

Drapability:
1. It is concerned with the ability of fabric to hang easily & fall into graceful to shape &
folds.
2. This quality depends on the kind of fibre, yarn, fabric construction & finish used to final
goods.

Absorbency:
1. It determines the amount of moisture taken up by
the fibre from air.
2. Cotton fibre is very absorbent.
3. Twist in the yarn also influences absorbency.
4. Low twist yarn absorbs more moisture than high
twisted yarn.
5. Fabric structure also plays role in absorbency.
Looser structure will be more absorbent than
tighter one.
Chemical properties of cotton fibre:

Reaction to alkalis:
1. Alkali does not harm cotton fibre.
2. Strong alkali solution (NaOH) improves the qualities of cotton fibre.
3. The treatment of cotton fibre with sodium hydroxide & lustrous.
Reaction to acids:
1. Concentrated cold or diluted mineral acids like H2SO4 will damage cotton.
2. Weak organic acids like acetic acid will not damage cotton.
3. Care must be exercised when cotton comes in contact with acids.

Affinity for dyes:

1. Cotton has a good level of affinity for dyes.
2. Reactive, vat & azoic dyes are most commonly used to dye cotton.

Resistance to perspiration:
1. Human body sweat may be alkaline or acidic.
2. It depends on the individual’s metabolism.
3. Alkali perspiration does not harm cotton as it is resistant to alkali.
4. Acid perspiration causes a slight deteriorating effect, which leads discoloration.

Effect of heat:
1. Cotton has the ability to withstand moderate heat.
2. But extreme heat will cause cotton goods burnt.

Shrinkage:
1. Cotton fibres absorb water when it is wet.
2. It tends to shrink as it dries.
3. There are some chemical available for finishing process.
4. Such finishing can improve its shrinked.

Applications:
Cotton is used to make fabrics that are universally used for all types of :

• Apparel
• Home Furnishings
• Industrial Applications
Linen Fibre
Linen is one of the oldest and a very popularly used fibre obtained from the stalk of the flax
plant. The hair like fibres, are held together by a gummy substance known as pectin. Linen is
composed of 70 percent cellulose, and 30 percent pectin, woody tissue, ash and moisture.

Linen is popularly used as a generic term to describe

bed, bath, table and kitchen textiles and furnishings as it
was traditionally used for towels, sheets, etc.

It is one of the most prestigious and expensive fibre,

grown in small quantities, in various pats of the world.

Physical Characteristics:
The fibre is smooth, straight and lustrous. It is more
brittle and less flexible than cotton. The fibre is also
more difficult to spin into yarn. It has a long staple fibre
length when compared to cotton.
Properties of Linen
Linen has a number of properties, which makes it useful for various industrial applications, use
in home furnishings and apparels. Some of them are:
• Strength: Linen is a durable fibre, as is two-three times as strong as cotton. It is second
in strength to silk.
• Elasticity: Elasticity is the extent to which a fibre can be elongated or stretched and the
then returned to its normal condition and size. Linen is the least elastic natural fabric.
• Resilience: Resilience refers to the extent to which a fabric can be deformed by
crushing or compressing it, and finally returning it to its original condition. Linen is quite
stiff and wrinkles easily.
• Absorbency: Absorbency refers to the
extent to which moisture can penetrate into a
fiber. The fiber absorbs moisture and dries
more quickly. It is excellent for
manufacturing towels and handkerchiefs.
• Heat Conductivity: Heat conductivity
refers to the extent to which heat can be
conveyed through a fibre. It is most suitable
for use in summers, as the fibre allows the
heat to escape, leaving a cool effect.

Major Producers:
Western Europe is the major producer of finest quality linen, China is also one of the leading
producer of high quality linen. Ireland, Italy and Belgium are other significant producers.
Belgium produces the best quality linen, and Ireland is known for its craftsmanship.
Applications:
Linen is one of the widely used fibre used in :

• Apparels
• Home furnishings
• Commercial furnishing
• Upholstery
• Industrial application

Jute Fibre
Known as the raw material for sacks all over the world. Jute is truly one of the most versatile
fibres gifted to man by nature that finds various uses in the
form of Handicrafts. Next to cotton, jute is the cheapest and
most important of all textile fibres. Jute cultivation provides
work for millions of farmers, landless laborers, industrial
workers and provides jobs for many others, indirectly.

Characteristics of Jute Fibre:

Jute is a long, soft, shiny fibre that can be spun into coarse,
strong threads. It is one of the cheapest natural fibres, and is
second only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses.
Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials
cellulose, lignin, and pectin. Both the fibre and the plant from which it comes are commonly
called jute.

Chemical composition:

Cellulose 65.2 %

Hemicelluloses 22.2 %

Lignin 10.8 %

Water soluble 1.5 %

Fats & wax 0.3 %

Physical properties:
1. Specific gravity- 1.48

2. Moisture – St. M.R 13.75 & absorb 35 – 40% water of its dry weight.

3. Strength- Tenacity-dry 3.5-5 g/d wet lower than dry.

4. Elasticity-Breaking extension – 1.8% Recovery (%) very low. For high tenacity, less
extension, high stiffness Jute fibres is brittle & can holds less twist. So Emulsion is added
to make it soft.

5. Specific heat is 0.325

6. Resiliency-bad, Abrasion resistance moderate, Dimensional stability-good.

Chemical properties:

Effect of bleaches:
Not affect by oxidizing or reducing bleaches.

Acids & Alkalis:

Easily damaged by hot dilute or cold concentrated acids. Resistant to alkalis.

Organic solvents:
Resistant to organic solvents.

Sun light & heat:

Poor resistant scorches at high temperature.

Resistant to stains:
Poor resistant to water borne stains.

Biological properties:
Scoured jute has good to excellent resistant to microorganisms & insects.

Heat:
Burns rapidly, Snoldering red after glow.
Conductivity:
Moderate conductor of electricity & heat.

Usage:
The uses of jute are manifold although the traditional use remains in packing as sacking, hessian
and carpet backing. These light weight yarns are to be used in value added textile applications
like upholstery, furnishing, garments and bags etc, are just a few examples.

Jute is used chiefly to make cloth for wrapping bales of raw cotton, and to make gunny sacks and
gunny cloth. The fibres are also woven into curtains, chair coverings, carpets, and burlap.
However, jute is being replaced by synthetic materials for these uses. Very fine threads of jute
are made into imitation silk. The fibres are used alone or blended with other types of fibres to
make twine and rope.

Hemp Fibre
Hemp is a tall woody plant with natural wood fibres found in all the tropical and temperate
countries of the world. The plant has nearly thirty varieties, all resembling one another in
physical appearance and properties.
Among the known varieties of hemp, only those
possessing high luster, high tensile strength and
fineness are grown on a commercial basis. Hemp
resembles flax and is often mistaken for linen. The
fibre cannot be bleached easily without causing
damage to the fibre.

Properties of Hemp:
The following properties of the fibre make it useful in
the home furnishing and other industries. Some of
them are:

• Harsh and Stiff

• Durable
• Fine
• Lustrous
• Brittle
• Mattress

China, North Korea, Hungary, Romania, Poland, France and Italy are some of the important
countries growing hemp.

Applications:
Hemps is widely used in the home furnishing industry for manufacturing rugs and carpets. It is
also used for housing purpose and food.
Sisal Fibre
Sisal is another natural fibre obtained from the leaves of a plant. It is naturally found in Africa,
Central America and Florida. Sisal, also known as sisal hemp is a plant that yields a stiff fibre
and is mostly used for making rope. It is the most produced natural fibre after cotton.

Physical Characteristics:
The fibre is smooth and straight and light yellow in color. It is fairly coarse & it is extensively
used because of its strength, durability, ability to stretch, affinity for certain dyestuffs, &
resistance to deterioration in saltwater.

Major Countries:
China, Tanzania, Madagascar, Kenya are some of the
significant producers of high quality sisal, used in
different applications.
Applications:
Sisal is used for making a number of products including :

• Rope
• Twine
• Upholstering
• Mattress
• Carpets

Kapok Fibre
Kapok is natural vegetable based fibre obtained from the seed capsules of trees grown in Java,
Sumatra, and Central America. The fibre is also known as silk cotton because of its natural luster
similar to that of pure silk.

Kapok looks similar to cotton but can be easily

distinguished from it when tested under a microscope. The
fibre appears like a hollow tube with very thin walls and
frequent folds.

Properties of Kapok:
Kapok possesses the following properties that make it
useful for manufacturing different products:

• Light
• Very Buoyant
• Resilient
• Highly Flammable
• Vermin Resistant
• Moisture Resistant
• Dries Quickly
• Smooth
Applications:
Kapok has a smooth texture, but because of being weak, it is not spun into yarn. The fibre is
mostly used for manufacturing mattress, cushions, upholstered furniture, pillows, life jackets etc.
The fibre is also used for sound proofing and insulation.

Ramie Fibre
Ramie is a natural fibre having a woody appearance that resembles flax. The natural fibre is
hardly used for textiles. Various processes including extraction and cleaning are expensive, as
they involve several steps.

Physical Characteristics:
Ramie is a stiff fibre, more brittle than linen and very lustrous. The fibre can be bleached to
extreme whiteness. The fibre is however unprofitable to general use because the retting operation
is difficult and costly. The fibre has permanent luster and good affinity for dyes. It is one of the
strongest natural fibres and has greater strength when wet.
Major Producers:
South east Asia, China, Japan and Southern Europe are some of the major producers of ramie
fiber. Philippines and Brazil are also significant producers of fine quality ramie.

Applications:
Pina is often used for manufacturing:

• Apparels: Ramie is used as a filling yarn in mixed woolen fabrics, it is also used with
silk fibers and a substitute for flax.
• The fibre is made into fabrics for household furnishings including upholstery and canvas
• Ropes
• Twine
• Nets

Coir Fibre
Coir is a natural, coarse brown fibre, obtained from the husk of a coconut. The fibre cells are
hollow and narrow and have thick walls made up of cellulose.

Major Producers:
India, Srilanka are the most important coir producing
countries. The Indian state of Kerala produces around
60% of the total world coir production.

Applications:
Coir is a very useful natural fibre, finding application in :
Furniture making for stuffing upholstered furniture
 • Cordage
• Sail Cloth
• Coarse Mattings
• Door Mats
• Floor Mats
• Mattress

Pina Fibre
Pina, or pineapple fibre, is obtained from the large leaves of the pineapple plant naturally found
in tropical countries.

This natural fibre is soft and lustrous and woven into

pina cloth. The fibre is soft, durable and resistant to
moisture.

Applications:
Pina is often used for manufacturing:

• Mats
• Cloth
• Bags
• Apparels

Wool Fibre
Wool is a natural fibre sourced from animals. It grows from the skin of sheep, goats. Rabbit and
alpacas are also used for producing high quality wool. This natural fibre is composed of a protein
known as Keratin and is a relatively coarse fibre.

Physical Characteristics:
The fibre is wavy, crimpy and has scales on its surface.
The appearance of wool varies, depending on the breed
of sheep. While some fibres can be having finer scales,
others can have crimp and coarser scales. Wool fibre is
susceptible to heat and has a felting property, caused
due to the scales on the surface.

Physical properties of wool:

Strength:
1. Wool is the weakest of the natural textile fibres.
2. Wool fibre is strengthened by the used of ply yarns.
3. A hard twisted two ply yarn may be regarded as an assurance of durability.
4. Tightly twisted single yarns also make a strong fabric.
Elasticity:
1. Depending upon the quality of wool, the fibre may be stretched from 25-30 percent of its
natural length.
2. This characteristic reduces the danger of tearing under tension.

3. This characteristic contributes to the free body movements.

4. Wool & wool blend fabrics are given mechanical & chemical treatment to increase their
elasticity & provide better two way stretch.
5. The chemical treatment also gives better shape retention.
Resilience:
1. Wool fibre has a high degree of resilience.
2. Good quality wool is soft & resilient.
3. Poor quality wool gives a harsh feeling.
4. Due to the high degree of resiliency, wool fabric wrinkles less than some others.

Drapability:
It has excellent draping quality due to its pliability, elasticity, and resiliency.

Effect of heat:
1. Wool becomes harsh at 100˚C & begins to decompose at slightly higher temperature.
2. It has plastic quality which helps to have shape at melting temperature.

Effect of light:
Wool is weakened by prolonged exposure to sunlight.

Chemical properties of wool:

Reaction to alkalis:
Wool is quickly damaged by strong alkalis.

Reaction to acids:
1. Wool is damaged by hot sulphuric acid.
2. The fibre is not affected by other acids.

Affinity for dyes:

Wool fibre has high affinity for certain types of dyes, i.e.
Acid dyes, Basic dyes.

Resistance to perspirations:
Wool is weakened by alkali perspiration. That will cause
discolouration.
Wool yarn Worsted yarn
Short staple Long staple
Carded only Carded & combed
Weaker Stronger
Softer Harder
Major Countries:
The quality of wool is determined by the breeding, climate, food, general care and health of the
sheep. Australia is the world leader manufacturing high quality merino wool. Other major
producers of wool are New Zealand, Argentina, South Africa, Uruguay and the United states.
Applications:
Wool is used for manufacturing various products including:

• Clothing
• Carpets
• Felt
• Rugs

Silk Fibre
Silk is a natural fibre that is a solidifies protein secretion produced by certain caterpillars.

Physical Characteristics:
The fibre is a fine continuous strand unwound from
the cocoon of silkworm. Silkworms are generally
cultivated. The fibre can be fine and coarse, is
lustrous, smooth, light weight, strong and elastic.

Chemical composition:
Silk gum of sericin
Silk or fibroin
Water
Salts etc
22-25 %
62.5-67 %
10-11 %
1-1.5 %
Polymer system:
The silk polymer is folded linear fibroin
polymer. It has no cystine linkage like wool
polymer 7 has high degree of orientation. The
polymer is 140 µm long & 9 µm thick, 65-70 %
crystalline. It contains 16 anion acids.
Functional group: COOH, -NH2,-CONH-

Physical properties:
1. Specific gravity- 1.34

2. Moisture- St. M.R- 11%

3. Strength- Tenacity – dry 4.3 g/d ; wet = dry 92

4. Elasticity- Braking extension – 23.4% ; Recovery (%) – 52

5. Resiliency- Moderate, Abrasion resistance- good, Dimensional stability- good.

Chemical properties:

Effect of acid:
Degraded by acid increase luster & develop scroop.

Effect of alkali:
More resistance than wool, dissolves in hot concentrated solution.

Effect of bleach:
Same as wool, called degumming.

Effect of organic solvent:

Resistance.

Effect of heat:
Poor conductivity, scorches easily due to breakage of side chain.

Effect of sunlight:
Very sensitive tends to degraded. More sensitive than any other fibre.

Effect of due:
Ability- need lower temperature than any other natural fibre. Give brighter shade with direct,
acid, basic & vat.
Major Countries:
Japan was the first country to undertake commercial production of silk. It is ranked number one,
in terms of production of fine quality silk. Other countries include:

• China
• India
• Italy
• Spain
• France
• Austria
• Turkey
• Greece
• Brazil

Applications:
Silk has been used since a long time for a number of applications including:

• Home furnishings
• Apparels
• Upholstery

Asbestos Fibre
Asbestos is a natural fibre sourced from minerals, i.e. varieties of rocks found in Italy, Canada
and South America.

Physical Characteristics
The soft, glossy, long and white fibres are pressed into sheets. Chrysolite asbestos has a fine and
long staple that has lot of strength and flexibility. The fiber does not burn, but melts at a
sufficiently high temperature. It is rustproof and acid proof.

Applications:
Asbestos has been used in making fire fighting and fire resistant fabrics. It is used to
manufacture commercial furnishings including theater curtains, draperies etc.