5 GIFTS YOU CAN BUILD THIS WEEKEN

Better Homes and Gnrdens~

2-Minute Router-Bit
Tune-Up p.l2
Trick Out Your Tablesaw
for Peak Precision p.l6
, Quick and Elegant:
All-Wood Ceiling p.36

$6.99 U.S. I $1 ~ (;.I,N

 THE 12" EXTREME SERIES
TABLE SAW with RIVING KNIFE! · Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, singl!!-phase
, Precision ground ca~;t iron table size:
27" x 39 ' ;'" w/wings . Arbo r: 'I."
· Rip capacity: 30"
· Cutting capacity: 3" @90',2'/," @45°
· Appro~. shipping weight: 439 1bs.
G0478
ONLY
$725 00
· Motor: 5 HP, nov. 5illgle·phase 10" LEFT -TILTING SUPER HEAVY·DUTY
· Precision ground cast iron tab le TABLE SAW
· Table size with extension: 30"/, ,' x 78 11/ 16'
· Arbor size: 'I.' & 1" · Arbor speed: 3600 RPM
EXTREME · Precision gro un d cast iron ta ble size:
... ~ n, I ~ '"
· Ma ~. d~ do wid th: I " 27" x 40'// w/wings ' Arbor: \,i,"
· Ma ~. de pth of cut: 4"@ 9O',2 l/'@ 45·
G060SX · CUlting capacity: S'l & 26' R of blade ,.
REG. $~
· Max. rip capacity: 52" · Max. depth of cut 3' @9(r.2'i!'@ 45 ·
00
· 'la' x ,;." T-slots & miter gauge SALE $1895 · Appwx. shippirlg weight: 465 Ibs,
• Digital readout for b ~vel ang'e ulSQ uvmlable Gl023SL t.:1
· Cast iron trunnions REG, ~ ~
· App rox. shippmg weigllt: 901 Ibs,
G....,
7'/' HP, 3-Phalt ONLY $1995 00 SALE$895 00
a
IS" PLANER/ MOULDER
· Motor: 2'1> HP, 110V, single-phase · Motor: 5 HP, 220V, sing lt-ph3se
, Table size: 15" x 16' · Table size: 20' x 55%' w/extension
fl.ATURES STU.DT 5TANili
· Max. cutting he ight: I)" CO ~ I'I' N ! E~ T "' E ~H M'TH · Max. cutting height: S' P1!~(ISION G~OUN tl
, Max, cutting depth: lJ....
STOP ' AMAZIN G .\IIlT-1N , Min, stock th ic kness: 3/,• :;:,SET~~IIO~:,E~E ~
DUST (O lLlCTIOII!
· Min_ stock thickness: 'Ii" · Min. stock length: 7'h" TA.~~~'

· Min, stock Ie"ngth: 17' G0477 , Max, cutting depth: '1,' .:,~;~" ,

· Feed rate: 11 FPM & 22 FPM REG.I,U¥" , Feed rate: 16 FPM & 20 FPM
G04S4
· Cutterh€ad di.l.: 3'/,'
· Culterhe<ld di.l.: P I..' SALE $675 00
• , Cutterhead speed: 5000 RPM ONLY
· Cutterhe~d speed: 5500 RPM
· Approx. shipping weight: 181 Ib._ m1.I! I · Appro~_ shipping weight: 920 Ib,. $1250" ~'
THE ULTIMATE 14" BANDSAW 14" INDUSTRIAL RE.SAW 17" HEAVY·DUTY BAND SAW
· Motor: 1 HP, 11 OV/220V, · Motor: 1 HP, I 10V/2l0V, · Motor: 2 HP, 11 OV/220V,

-
single-phase, TEFC T smgle-phase, TEFC s l ngle-ph~sc, TEFC

• Precision grou nd cast iron tab le · Precision ground c~st lion table · Precision ground cast iron table
· Cutting capaclty/!hroat: 13 ' 1>' size: 14'/,. ~ 193/," · Table till: 45 ' R& 10' L
· Max, cutting height: 6' · Table tilt: 45' R& 8' l · Cutting capacity/throat: 16 ' /.
· Blade size: 92 'h" - 93' h" long , Cutting capacity/throat: 13'/," Mil). cutting height: 12"
('I," _l/' wide) , Max. cutting h@lght 10' · Blade size: 131 'h' long
· Blade spI*'ds: 1500 &3200 FPM Blade size: 106' long {'II" -1 " Wide)
· Approx. shipping we"lght: I'/o' - '/, wide) . Blade speeds: 1700 FPM
198Ib~ , Blade speed: 3000 FPM & 3500 FPM
IN Cl U ri E ~ H'!lCE, MitER GAUH. · Approx. sh l p~119 weight: . Approx. shipping weight:
',,' 6L ~ g [ . Q UI~lIiLA~ ~ 3421bs.
279Ib~
RIlUU SUTEM

"" I Rne¢
CUTTING
HEIGHTl ... .
\\hnrl\\',x'i
• \!-\'-;'-I
~ , , ,I\.
I~....
!"'~ • '

GOS13 llEII
REG,~
SALE$750 00
~?M!II
 6 " JOINTER
• Motor. 1 HP, 11OV. single-phase
• PTecision ground cast iron ta~ size:
6' x 46' • Cutlerheitd kniv~ 3
• Cullelhead ~peed: 4800 RPM
- o Motor: 1 HP, 11OV, single-ph<!!.e
• PrKisioo ground cast iron table size:
6' x55'// • Cuttemead kn ives.: 4
• Cutlemead speed: 4850 RPM
• Max. depth of cut: 'It' Cutterhead dia. 2';,'
0
• Max. dep th of cut: 1Jo' . Cutterhead dia. 3'
• Rabbeting capacity: '!J' • Rabbeting capacity: 'II'
o APfXOK. shipping weight: 270 Ibs. • Approx, shipplJ19 weight 3471'05.
FREE
G04Sl 60604
REG. ~ REG . ~
SALE $325 00 mlJ!I SALE $495 00
8 " x 76" JOINTER.
• Motor: 3 HP, nov, s/ng~-phase, TEFC • MOJor: 2 HP, 110VmW, single-pha!.e, TEFC, 34S0 RPM
• Pr~i5ion ground cast ilOn table oiI. . .~ · Precision ground cast iron
oCutterhead kni'fes: 4 HSS • table size: 75" ~ 9'/,' ...........
• Cuttemead speed: 53SO RPM • Cutterhead speed; 5S00 APM
• Ma~. depth of cut: 'Ir' . Cutterhead dia. , Max. depth of cut: 'II'
• Ma~, rabbeting depth: 'I: • f\abbeting capacity; '/,.
• Approx. shipping W~9ht: 5971'05. ' Approx, shipping weight: 558 l b~.
G0490 G0593
REG. '~ FREE
' 'PUSMIlOCU
111 ''''In
Of

• Motor: 1 HP, 11OV, single'plme.TEFC o Motor: 1'Il HP, 11OV, single-pf\a!.e

o Precision ground cast ilOn tables o Drum surface speed: 4000 FPM
• Oscillating !.lble Size: 14'11' sq. • Feed rate: 'farrabie, 1-12 FPM
• Disc table size: 17)/." ~ 10" IHDEP£HDENT
• Max. stock size: 4' h' ~36'W DUST
, Both tables tilt to 45 ' o Mi n. board length: 6' COLLlCTION
• Spindle sizes: ,/.., ~II·. 1'II' & 2' W/ OUSTBAG
• Min. IxMrd thickness: 'II'
o Spindle o~illallons; 60 SPM • Conveyor belt size: la' x 44'h'
' Spirldle speed: 1725 RPM • Drum size: 4'
G0529 G04S8
• Stroke length: l ' REG . '~ • Appfox. shipping REG o ~ue­
• .'IPPfOK. shipping
SALE $450 00 ~ht:3501~
SALE $75000
28 " I 39" DOWNDRAFT 1 HP, 1 STAGE CYCLONE HUGE SELECTION OF
SANDING TABLE DUST COLLECTOR OAK ~ MAPLE TOOLBOXES!
• Motor: 'h HP, 1lOY, singie-pha!.e,TEFC · Motor: 2rfl, 22W, single'phase,TEFC Class 'F' Griuly offefSan impressive selection of qualiTY
Amps: 12.5 . 60 Heru cycleJ34S0 RPM toolboxes and chests for sloring ;;Illd protecting

•
• Ta ble surface area: 28' x 3" o

• Air suction capacity: 1600 CFM • In take hole; 7' you r flne tool bit~ mea~uring tools and Imchir.e
- Impeller: 13'11' steel accessories. Whether yoo choose traditional oak
. Impellor. 9'h' x T, squirrel cage
• Mil)(. static pressure: lOA' or tM more contemporary look of maple, yOtI will
• Filter size: 16' x25' x 2' get the sameexceUence and attention to detail
-?refilter size: 16' K2S' x l' • Suction capacity:
1354CFM ., 2.5'SP including bt-autiful fKe veneef IWer stable center
• Fijtration: 5 micron cores, interlocking joints. felt lined drawers and
• Filter ~urfact' area:
• Two 11 0\1 outlets locking lids &froot panels.
86 sq. ft.
• Power wrd hanger YOU'll be proud to have
i,
' ApprOl_shlppif19 them in your Y10p!
· C~lection drum:
weight: 2521bs. A GREAT GIfT IDIAI
stt'ei, 35 gal.
MiIlTTl)!',~I1\'
H2936 • Approx. shi pping H'0AA100lAWUCHUT
REG . $~ weight 3591bs. ~EG.']j'" SW'149"

SALE $575 00
'S" A(J(Jm(JN.;.I fHI/'IWiG
60440
R EG.~
mill SALE $675 00

CIrcle No. 583

 • •
In tt-f Issue
•

68
PROJECTS
16 Drum-sanding fence
28 Mission bookcase
42 Basic-Built: Home/shop storage cart
Find everything you nel'd at your locafhOOlf' (enter
to (raft Ihi~ Ili!ndy mobil!.' weh-all.
58 Three-window photo frame TECHNIQUES
68 Ikebana vase 36 Suspended wood ceiling
Gol an evening lind a few smdll hardwood s<raps? (heck OUI this mY-la-make yet l'lflJ'lnt
Make Ihi~ distinctiye gift. altemativt' to office-5tyll! lIcouSlit tile.
72 Turning project: 4-in-' screwdriver 48 How to build a super-simple drawer
76 Scrollsawn holiday ornaments 84 How to make faux tenons
A unique way \0 send festive greMlngs.
80 Suapwood project: Key<:hain DEPARTMENTS
90 Router-table pushpad 8 Editor's Angle
10 Sounding Board
TOOLS & MATERIALS 14 Shop Tips
12 2-minute router-bit tuneup 92 Ask WOOD
24 Wise buys: Hoselt» brad nailers 108 What's Ahead
62 Shop-tested: Benchtop drill presses
You d()n't net'd to Ipt'fld a lor lime 10 gel a (apable
drill press. We found three faves for under $300.
70 Shop-tested: Marking and measuring tools
88 Shop-proven products
Ullimatt tabl~ roolfr, r~tprooftablt5.lw top. mort.

This seal is your a5surance that we

build ....ery project, verify f!tIery
fact, and te,t every reviewed tool
in O\Jr workshop to guarantee your
success and complete s.atisfaction.
November 2007 Issue 180
on the web -
woodmagazine.com

MAKE SAWDUST, MAKE A FRIEND

Find a woodworking dub or
guild in your area by visiting
woodmagazine.com/dubs. You
can even (reate afree listing for
your own dub.

FIND ANY
ARTICLE FAST!
Search 23 years of WOOD
magazine in seconds. Go to
woodmagazine .com/index and
type a keyword that describes
the tool (Urnuter"), project
w
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),
Members of the Annapolis (Md.) Woodworkers' Guild
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related to that word.

12 VENEERING TIPS ON VIDEO

Master craftsman Mar( Adams gives you
tons of tips and tricks on veneering. Check
out our fREE l1 -part video series, hosted by
Marc. Click on the "'Snap-Tested Tf{hn jques~ tab
at woodmagazine.ctml/videos.

5 W A P YOU R How (ana guy get any work done in herem larry Schwager
of Jerome, ldaho, just built his first woodworking shop, btkJw, and
S H 0 P S H 0 T S he posted photos or it at woodmagilzme.com!shop'ibots in the
Idea Gallery. See more photos or post your own!

3
 WOOD~
Magazine
2005 November 2007 Vol. 24, No.6 IsslH! No. 180

Back Issues EDlTOR-IN·CHlff

1 1l1.ItRlEIl

on CD Manaq"'9 EOltOl'
MAllLEH IUlN"
Art Dir«1OI'
lAM. EHUItS
Deputy [<litor
DAYE tAMf'8(l1.
Stnlor ~ Editor
KEVIN IOYl£
Techniq~ Editor Tool &: TtdIn.qut< fdtor
101 WIlSOH lOtI Ht/NTOt ~

ProjfW fditor Projecu tditDr

owtH DUVALL JAN swe
()wen recently Des;Qn Editor
~picl .. e JEi!: MDITZ
/'Imf bookffi<h," MullJlnedi.l Editor ,••uoci.lte All Otreclor Anil'~ntArt Dlr«tor
VlI~ ••Ild a jl'wek)I UXAS I'mltS GREG SELLIRS CHERYl A.. 08Ul..A
box itS gifts. Bot> designed and buill . j)lir
Production/OffiCi Milllger Mmlrol,tflM A.s~\I""!\
MARGARET ClOSNER SHERYl MUNYON of cr..orry s.ot~ Uble!.

Photographerl
MARTY BALDWIN, JASON OONNElLY, DEAN SCHOEPPNER, JAYWII..DE
, .lulltWln TIM CAHILL. LORNAJOHNSOH, ROXANNf uMOINE
Technbl Com.ultinU Jlf' HIilL. PAt lOWAY
CootJibuling Ct,!tl.IIVIl JIM HEAVEY
1'Joo!~1Ideri '''8S I[LflN, IRA LACMU. JIM SANDERS

5118SC11l8U SERVICE
Go 10 wood,..".rirw.(om/help or wrik 10
WOOD ~ P,O.b 3709, Boone, IA 50037-0<139

~t Va~'s Diy,
• Store 7 issues in the space of leff surpoMd
wrth this rni!.Von
~ wife

a thin paperback. rocking (hilI.

• Quickly find articles using the

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Bwnes! ~ .l(FF snus
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in-shop use. AnOClolie Director c4 MitI'kell"9.Newutaod roM DEERING
Serlior Produc~on MaNogtr MELANIE STOLTlNBERG

• Includes active links to ,lr,d'iertislng Operdllorl! Milnil9er' JIM NELSOH

E-Commerce ~nager MATT SNYDER
online resources. Group Publllhtr TOM DAVIS
MERtDlTli PUaUSHtNG GROUP

You'll find: PJe5IOt!nt JACK GRIFFIN

utculIve'llte Pn:wUc:1'It DOUG OLSON

82 Projects Editon.l D'rKlor MIKE. LAFAVORE

Finlnte lr Admlnlltralion MIKE RIGGS
ManuiKlunng SAUCl HE.STON

61 Tool Reviews Con~ ~r\eting

Corpor~e ~
DAVID IAlL
JACK 8AM8ERGER
Inter",1ive Medi.1 lAU1tENWlfNER

72 Shop Tips
Corpcnte Mlrbl-.g NANCYWQlEA
A~<lf(h BRITTA WARE

~~
Skill-~uilding
PI'~nt .nd Chl<ef utwM Otfic« STU'HEN M..lACY

58 Techmques In~
(hIwmitI'I ~ 1M I<Nrd WIUIAM f . KERR
U . Mer.dllh 1M11 91l-ZOOJ)

and Much More!
To order your (0 go to
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~( ..,.IIIII"'",111 ... ,.,01/" 1M' .... ~, .. , ........ , hl.I04IoIIoo'.I. ' .111.1
4 N ovember 2007
 INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS
DESIGNED FOR PRACTICAL USE
-WI743
RHAVY-DlIT'f 1I0R11SING
W1750
0" X 89" OSCILlATING
W1874 Mi\CHINB w/CAHINET ST,,""D EDGE SANDER
2 UP SIIAPER
.. l Y.! HP, l1OVI22OV. si~e-phose. + 2 HP. 220V. singte-pIlO:se. TEFC motor
TEFC, 1725 RPM mofOl' • Precision ground cost iren robles
• Tobie slle: I g" JI. 12'h" .. Tobie siZe: 28"*" x 12"
.. Vertical spindle trovel: 9" .. Tobie trovel: 3¥4" ven.. 5" 00r1z .
.. Head vertical trovel: 3 M • Aux. fable travel: 10"

.. Tobie long. frovel: 14'h"

+ SOndlng be"
speed: 3150 RPM
.. OsCillation stroke: Ij."
• Tobie cross trovel: 3 M

+ Drive drum dlo .: 7"

Optional D312~ .. Fence angle: 0 • 30· • 3 Spindle drums: I'll". 'l' & 3" x 4'h" H
IX\enilan Tab"
AvoIlDbIe + Spindle Speed: 1725 RPM • Approl. shipping weight: 462 IDs.
.. 2 HP, 11012201/, single-phase molor + ApproJl.. ship[>ing weight: TIltlnq
Gf"aphite

..
.. Large precision ground OOsl Iron IOble 31Slbs.
Coaled
+ Table size: 2'")(2' · Ptaten
.o(.fJl9!\),. Head TN •
.. Spindles: 'h~ &, 1/," (flcludtd)
.. Spindle travel: 3"
t Splndle speeds: 7,000 & 10,000 RPM
.~ 3O· l.R
-"
110 9001
Foct..,
Handles Every1tli'tg
.. SpIndle openings: 1Yo", 3 'h" &c 5" from standard cabinet IneludH
Door Sties 10 -'diustable
.. Heavy-duty miter gauge MitetGauge
Posts (J'Id Beams ., Removable
.. ApprolL Shipping weight: 293 Ibs. Up to 9'" WIde Fence

"'1742 W1747 W1741 •

IS" PLANER w/CAST IRON 20" PLANER 8"JOINTER •
WINGS &: &-IOUILE BASE ",/ CAST IROft: "'lNGS w/ PARALLELOGRAM
.. 3 HP. 220V, single-pilose moIOf • 5 HP. 220V, single-phase motor ADJUSTABLE BEDS
.. Table &Ill: 15" )1. 20' • Precision glOund lnfeed &: oUffee<! tobles + 3 HP, 220V. sln~phcrse. TEFC. J4~ RPM mofof
t Mnx. cuttirtg heighT: 8" Intemal
.. Tobie size: 25't." x 20" + Precblon grotlnd cos! Iron parallelogram desllJll
.. Min. stock lfIickneu: 1/),' Magnetic (55 '! ." x 20" w/extensiOns) • 10111& slz.: S" x76'(,.'
.. Min. slock lenglh: 8" Safety SwITch
wlThermal
• Cuffing heighT: 8" .-l , + Inl'80 tcble Sire: S" I 43%"
+ Mall. cunlng depth: ';.' OVerload
• Max. depth 01 cut: v.- , .:. .. CaS! kon lenee si2e: 35"1.. IWW. 5'"H
.. Cutterlleod dlo.: 3" Protection + CuMerheod speed: 5000 RPM .. Cullerhead dla.: 3';', Intemal
.. Cuttslhood knives : 3 HSS .. CuMerhsod diD. : 31A" + Cullarheod kntvu: 4 HSS MogneHc
.. ClItterh80d .~ed : 5000 RPM .. Feed rotes: 16 Ie 20 FPM Solety Switch
• Cuttefhead spHd: 5350 RPM
.. feed ro19: 16 FPM ", 30 FPM w/The<mOl
• Approx. SI1ipping weight: 900 Ibs. • Max. raDbeHng depth; %' Ovar1oad
.. ,\ppm•. lhlpplng w.Jghl: 875 Ibt. .. Max. deplll of CUI: 'A' Protection
2 Cost Iron .. Max. 'll'ldlll 01 cllt: 8"
Extension
• Ajlprox. sIlIp~ wefglll:
tnJ
,
Toblel
15" x 21 '/." 600 bI. ,

... Buin-in
Lock~
Mobile

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PRECISION
IS IN THE DETAilS.
Fine woodworking is all about precis io n. No one knows that better than

PORTER · CABlE ~ For ove r one hundred years woodworke rs have depended
on our revolutionary designs, prec ision engineering and unsurpassed

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deltaportercable.com . Because when precision is at stake , we don 't j ust

pay attention to the details. We obsess over them .

 Your Editor's Angle _ _ _ __
Making it easy for you
to find past articles
Y
ou've been there-the grocery
store checkout line where
you're asked: "Paper or plastic?"
[ typically opt for paper, knowing 1 can
rell~ the paper sack for any number of
shop purp()~ (such as a kraft backing
for picture frames). But faced with a
similar question: "Paper or internet for
an index of past WOOl':' magazine
articlesr I opt for the Internet.
Why? The advantages of putting the
index onto our Web sIte are so powerful
(I'll describe them in a bit) that I
haven't given much thought to putting
an index into the magazine since we
II:
-,
Article Index

last puhlished one in 2000. But a recent

We all make mistakes -
learn how top woodworkers
fix them!
Solve workshop goofs with these
tried-and-true solutions:
V Ensure tight, just-right joinery
V End measuring and marking snafus
V Hone your hand-tool skills
V Jointing and planing pointers
V Oriliing do's & don'ts
V Router remedies
~Dlliineat
woodmagazine.com/publications
or call toll-fret! 888-636-4478
$6.99 U.s., $8_99 Canada
WD 1107
meeting I had with a group of wood-
workers convinced me that I need to
discuss this subject hNe.
It started with a focus group
From time to time, we sit down with a
group of woodworkers to find out what
we're doing right in the magazine and
what we could be dOing better. On one
such occasion, members of the Des
Moines Woodworkers Association told
me how much they missed having a
paper index. And truth be told, we get
the same comment from a lot of other
readers who write or e-mail us.
Obviously, we n~ to do a better job
of letting you know that our online
index does exist and informing you of
ilS benefits.
To find the online index, simply go
to woodmagazlne.com and click on the
HArticie Tndex" box in the upper left of
the page. You'lJ go to a search-engine
page where you enter a word or two
describing the article you want to find.
For best results, follow I hese tips:
first, enter one word that describes, in
a general way, the article you are
looking for. (To make the index work,
we "mark" each article with an average
of 18 words that best describe its
contents.) If you enter one of those
"marked" words, the article will show
up in a listing. For example, if you're
trying to find a Shaker-style bed
project, Simply enter Hbed" in the
search field. A Shaker-style bed will
show up in a listing of other bed-related
articles. Enter two wordS, say "shaker
8 WOOD m ag.llne
bed," only if the listing you get with a
single word is too long.
One more tip: Make sure you've
spelled the search word correctly. The
search engine won't ask you "Do you
mean rabbet?'" it you're looking for tips
on rabbet joinery but enter the word
"rabbit."
Why an online index
makes so much sense
The biggest limitation of a paper index:
It becomes obsolete as soon as the next
issue of the magazine comes out. The
online Index is always up to date, with
articles from issue 1 (O(..1:oher 1984)
through today. Including this issue, the
online Index search('s more than 3,000
articles, so you don't have to wade
through mUltiple annual Indexes to
find an article. And, if you don't have
th~ Is~u~ that the artlcl~ appearoo In,
the online index often tells you how to
obtain that article.
Finally, our onlin~ index doesn't eat
up valuable pages in the magazine-
pages that Instead we arc able to devote
to marc projects, tips, tool reviews, and
the other coverage you enjoy so much
in each issue.
!fyou haven't used
the online index
lately, go ahead and
try it. I think you'l!
like it . •
N<l'Veffiber 2007
If you've ever wondered wnat a lablesaw can really do, look no furtner. Introducing tne new JET- 10· DELUXE XACTN~
SAW. The qUick release rivi ng knife and integrated arbor lode keops the operator safe and more efficient. The DELUXE
XACTA" SAW offers an upgraded Poly-V belt drive system for smooth operation and optimal power transfer, a fully
shrouded blade for nighly efficient dust collection. The 2S"x30" wings and deeper table gives you ellen more cast iron to
work on. A built-in 12.5" x1S" x4' storage drawer sealed from the cabinet keeps your necessi ties witnin arms rea ch, also
includos an on-board fence and miter gauge storage. Go to jettools.com and your quality Jet dealer today and you'll find
out why Jet products truly are Bui lt Botlor to Build Better""

www.JetTools.com/WOOD
11);001 VIMIITOC I roli!)U~, lIO.; Tlwlwl<w lMllTEil. "')<laM '",,"''''''' oI WMHToo l G r,,"~. ""
Ci rd& NQ 1588
Sounding Board ~~ . ~----------

Our bulletin board for letters, comments, and timely updates

Simple geometry pinpoints a speedier way to locate table legs

While reading your article on how to
build the three-legged plant stand In
issue 175 (Marc.h 2007), I remembered a
qUicker way to layout the locations for
I ing the compass, make a beginning
the legs on the top ring and shelf.
(I found the idea while helping my
daughter with her geometry home-
work.) Here's how it works: Draw your
cIrcle with a compass. Without adJust-
mark anywhere on the Circle, position
the compass point on that mark, and
then draw a short arc that intersects the
drdf'. MOve the compass point to that
mark and draw another intersecting
arc. Repeat until the last mark intersects
the first, as shown at (Uf left. You now
have six equidistant points, from which
you can choos.e three (as shown with a
triangle near left) to layout the notches
for the legs.
-/(nth Hogan, Palt1twillt, Ohio

I Article updates
Issue 177 Uul y 20(7)
• In the review of trim routers on page
45, the bit opening on the Porter-Cable
310 subbase should be 10/1.", as listed in
the chart on page 46. Also, Grizzly does
not offer optional bases for its model
\ H7791 trim route r.
-': Issu e 178 (SelJte mbe r 2007)
• The MLCS Merle band clamp
(part #9012, S27; 800-533-9298 or
mlcswoodworking.com) featured on
page 110 uses a 23" steel band rather
than fabric.
- - -- - - --~~ -

Teen wins contest with first woodworking project

Your eaSY-la-follow plans helped a plywood panel, and chose a different
16-year.old family friend, Jessica Kelly. I style of drawer handle.
build her first woodv.vrking project. i Jessica entered her nightstand in a
Jessica asked me to help her learn I regional woodworking competition
WOOdworking, and I was happy to i
through her school and heat out nearly
oblige. After looking through my past 'I 100 contenders to take first prize-the

issues of WOOL>' magaZine, she I only girl ever to win. Now she says she's
decided on the Arts« Crafts night- I hooked on the hobby, and her next
stand from issue 159 (November 2004). I proiect will be the matching dresser in
We shortened it 2" to match the height Issue J 60 (December/january
of her bed, built the top with a mitered , 2004/2005).
frame, enclosed the back with a -Dan WOHmurh, Cairo, Mo.

HOW TO REACH US
• For woodwcMting Htke:
Post )'Our woodwofking QUesrio01 (jointry, finhl'llng,
tools, turning,. 9(!neral woodworting. tK) OOOM 0(
14 ~nllne forums at woodmagazlne.cOtll/forums.
• To cunlact OUf ftillon:
SEnd yourcommen« via E-mail to
woodrr»il0NoochmgaIine.com; or write II)
WOOD magazine, 1716 Locust St~ l5-2l1.
~ MoInti.I" 50309.
• SUbsaiption HlisulKe:
To notify us of an acldr~s <mnge, 01 to gtt kip with
')'OIl1 wbscriplioo, visit woodrn.,wIM.conIsenlu:.
Or WIKt(1) WOOD m.19UilM'. P.D. Sax 31439, Boone,I"
s0037-0439. Plme Mld~)'OUr adliless label from a
!'Kent rna9Uine Isr.ue.
• To find put IrlldK:
See our 1000. ~t woodmagazine.tomfmdex.
• Toord«put IsSUH ItId IrfldH:
Ord~ past Isr.uts of 1+000 magazine, our ~I iooes,.
or downloadable ¥lidel, fum issue 100 to prtStfIt Visit
our ooliflt stOlt at woodmagazinuonVstOft.
Some issu~!al~ sold out
• Upcl,uM to prmousty' ptlbllsh~ projecu:
For an ulHO-dalt lining of cllanges in dimensions
~nd buying-gulde wtruS from is.sut J tIlrough tiXlay,
go 10 woodrugoulrM.comltdltorbi.

10 W OOD m agazI ne November 1007

 .
I

.. ,. .
.
.
~
Router Clinic

2-Minute
Router-Bit
Tune-Up
t's tempting to just -grab and go"

I when chucking up a router bit. And

why not? The bit worked flne the
[as! time you used It.
The truth is that t he effects of use
(and sometimes abuse) accumulate,
and the more you use a router bit, the
less effc(,:tive it hecomt'~. Here are four
essential steps to tale bE'fore using a
router bit:

1 Inspect for dirt, damage

Using it bright light- and ill magnifirr If
ne<enllfy- thorougnly examine the bit.
Look for dirt Of deposits on the Shilnk that
might interfere with chucking up the bit,
as well as gunk on the bit body iIInd cutten.
Examine the cutting edges carefully by
shining the light right on the edge. A sharp
edge will be nearly Invillble, but dull or
damaged urbkle wilt reriKt noticeably IS
you turn the bit in the light. as shown. This
bullnose bIt was dropped onto a concrete
floor, damaging one cutting edge.

2 Clean from tip to shank

Give the bit a thorough clean[ng to remove
built-up dust, hardened pitch, and other
deposits that may Interfere with the (ut.
Remove the bearing, where necessa ry. and
spray the bit with a good-quality bit cleaner.
(See Sources.1 Lei It sland for a few minutes.
and then wipe the softened deposits away
With II clean cloth or paper towel. YelU might
be surprised at how much gunk will come
off even the cleanest-looking bits. u~ a
toothpick or s.oft brass brush to scrape d ebris
from the recesses of the cutting edges and
from the bearing, if the bit hIS one.
J Lubricate the bearings
If the bit has a bearing. spin it with your
fingers to be sure [t turns freely. 8e... rlngs
mustlurn rreely to keep from burni"9
workpiece edges. A drop of machine 011 (or
the lubricant that comet with the Bits.." ' kit.
sou,ced at rightl will do th e trick. Let illoak
in for a second. and then spin the bearing
several times to allow th e lubricant to seep
into the bearing and thoroughly coat internal
parts. Wipe aoway any excess from the outside
of the bearing. as well as Iny lube that may
have gotten onto the bit body.
4 Hone the cutting edges
A fine or extra-fine handheld diamond hone
works best, but be sure to hone only the tlat
fMe of the (utter. not the angled edge. A
few swipes with the hone before each use 1$
usually enough to keep bits at their best. If a
bit will be used extensively. take it out of the
router from time 10 time and hone it again.
For badly dulled bits lor bits with dam.ged
cutting edges), (onsider a professional
sharpening Of replacement.
Sources
Itt clune": Bits.Mfkit, SlOIEmpWe M'nufKtUl"irlg.
866-700 S823,empiftinfv.coml;8Ibde& 8rt.8oz.. $11)
(~Id. SOO»6l·1712,l:IoWIield.com)
Df.lftond honeI: 'Credit card' dlamond ~
cards, in wee grits. S12 eath (Woodcraft. 800·225·1153,
wooOOJfuomJ .

W OO D maga:r.1n.. Novern~ 2007

12
AWARDED M OST INNOVATIVE
History has II tendency to repeat itself. It has again with the award-winning
POWERMATIC PM2000. We have added an all-new hardwood workbern:;h
extension lable to the lisl of available models, sothe PM2000 is now even more
eHective for aU vour woodworking projects. fhe PM2000 still comos oqulpped
w ith an industry fint arbor lock. lind inlegrllted caSler system, II true quick
release riving knife. blade guard sys tem, end Is backed by the industry's moS!
durable 5-year warranty. Find Ihe model most suiled 10 your needs III II local
POWERMATIC deoler or at www.powermatic.com/wood

C;rQktNo.16t12
ShOR-TipS
Helping you work faster, smarter, and safer

Simple and superior shelf pin templates

like most people, I've long mcd a
simple perfoTated~hardboard template
and a drill press to make shelf· pin
holes. But the drill-press template was
not completely accurate because the
template holes tended to get hlgger
with each use. fly abandoning the drill
press in favor of a plunge router and the
jig you see here, I am ilOW able to use
the same jig hundreds of times with no
variation in the shelf-pin hole spacing.
The basic idea i" to use one jig,
specifically a dovetail jig, to make
template
".
Top Shop Tip
another, the shelf-pin jig. Use the bits
and bushings described in the illustra-
tions both to build the jig and then use
it. The dovetail template eliminates
measuring and ensures perfect hole-
spacing. In fact, the jigs are so easy and
inexpensive to build that I made them
in several lengths to accommodate
various cabinet sizes.
-jerry Collins, GtI:lrgetown, Tt. . as
I!
v
!
When we caught up with Jerry Collins,
he was ~between shops," making an
intrastate movi" from Tomball to
Georgetown, Texas. And, admittedly,
he was getting antsy to get back to
the business of crafting his wooden
toys. "My favorites are the rocking
toys," he says, such as the rocking
Harley-Davidson motorcycle he built
(shown at lower right in the photo
above). As Jerry reassembles his shop,
we look forwa rd to seeing more Top
Shop Tips like the one at left.

Consider It a shop-warm ing gift, Jerry:

a DeWalt DW73S portable planer with our
compliments for sending the Top Shop Tip.

Top tips earn tools!

Two squares pinpoint the center of a circle
While trying to find the center of a circle,
it occurred to me that pairing a combina-
tIon square and a framing square should
help do the trick. 1 clamped the squares
together with a spring clamp as shown,
and then marked a center line. Next, I
rotated the disc about 90 G-it's not
critical- and marked another line that
intersects with the first. That intersection
is the center of the circle.
-lim 5krocAi, PaiMsvilil', Ohio
conDnued 0/1 page 18
Tell us how you've solved a workshop
stumper, and you'll get $75 if we print
it. And, if your tip garners Top Shop
Tip honors, we'll reward you with a
tool prize worth at least $250.
Send you r best shop solutions,
along with photos or illustrations and
your daytime telephone number, to:
Shop Tips, WOOD Magazine, 1716
Locust SL, LS-221 , Des Moines, IA
50309·3023. Or, e-mail your tips to:
shoptips@Woodmagazine.com.
Remember to include your contact
info in the e-mail as well.
Because we publish onl)' original
tips, please send your pointers only to
WOODs magazine. Sorry, su bmitted
materials can't be returned.

14 WOOD magazine NOV1!moo 2007

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The universal tool for renovation mounting system
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For more Informadon or I dealer near

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~No,l~
5 Ways 10 SP[(\Al ADVERTISING SECTION

Out Yo ,
BROUGHT TO YOU BY

CELTA

Silel~-::_c:;:;:::~:!!!~~~::!:::~:~==~;;~;,~;.;:=::~=
N oriptool
pingdoes it better.
planks Fromorcutting
to width, sheet
sculpting goodsjoints,
precise to
the tableo;aw Is your go-to machIne for fast, accurate
results. Of COUT5e, to tap its van potential you murt operate
t

it safely and effectively and equip it with the proper acct'SSOries

and jigs. In this article and related free jig plans, tips, and videos
on t he Web, you'll get the help you need for top results.

Watth two fret videos demonstrating the

thrH shop·madejigs snown in thisartidt! as
wei as tips on tuning up a tableYw at
wGOdmag3Jine.(omhrickout.

TENONING JIG FOR CRISP CUTS

OU don't need a high-priced dado set to cut dean,
Y
A
precise mortise tenons, stub tenons, and half· lap joints.
firmly supports your workpiece while you
tenoning Jig
make the tricky cheek tuts with (ideally) a 40· or 50·tooth
combination/ general.purpose blade. Look for a model,
such as the DELTA 34 ·184 ~/ow, with a T·slot guide bar Ihat
adjusts to fit your saw's miter slot for smoothly and precisely
sliding the workpiece
Into a cut. A qulck· re lease
mechanism for switching
between cheek cuts is
another handy feature .

OUTFEED TABLE GIVES YOU SUPPORT

Fora generous
cutting large workpleces, there's iust no substitute for
outfeed table. It helps you make clean cuts
by improving your leverage and keeping your foc:us on the
cut, n ot worrying about losing control of Ihe workpiece. The
DELTA mOdel 50·302, ~Iow, level~ flu ~h with your ~aw's top,
RIP THIN STRIPS EASILY and It quickly
his bo!lsic jig gives you more than just use·of·rnind-It folds down
T yie lds thin strips of precisely the same width "II day long _
To adJust It you simply tighten the knob on the sliding arm t o
when not
-'~._ needed.
(A smaller
lock in the o!IpproKimate w idth of the strip, Imd then fin e·tune
the strip width by turning the brass screw. Find c:omplet e table slaYi
plans for building one at woodmagazine.comi trickout. in place
fo r shorter
workpieces.)
Nothing fancy,
but boy, will
It do wonders
for your
woodworking.
ON ·THE· MONEV MITER JIG l--"'~S x 1'I<" F.H . wood screw
45' miter
Oncerightyouwill
miter~
btlow
build this little beauty, you can rest assured thatyaur
always match up. Use the prlKess In the drawings
to temporarily attach each fen ce with double-faced
.~
tape. Test the fences for accuracy by cutting four sample pieces,
each about , - wide and -4" lon9. Hold them together with II
45· mitar
,,,.
rubber band, and check for any gaps at the miters. Adjust the
position of the fen ces as necessary. Then, permanently attilch
each fence to the base with two #8><1'1~' screws. Finally, It 's a
good Idea to aUlieh adhesive-backed, 100'g rit sandpapecr to the
fence faces . This will he lp prevent your workpieces from slipping
during cut'l. Miter-slot
guide

ATIACHING THE
Miter-slot MITER FENCES
guides

Same
dimensJOn
Step 1 Step 2
Draw a tine across the base parallel Attach the right-hand lence along
10 its front edge. Center ItHl inside one leg of the framing square and the
corner of a framing SQuare 00 the left lace against the other.
kerf and rotate it until the same
dimension 00 both legs 01 the
square intersects the parallel line.

See more details en bUlldmg thlH-e jigs at

.IOGdmJ~d!ln,' (r,rr tmkout.
PANEL·CUTTING SLED
hen you use
W this panel·
cutting sled, you'll
never wonder
whether the (orner
yo u just cut Is square.
o STOP DETAIL
v. x2' F.HIC.- -_II
madline screw
~. hole (drill before
cutting slot)
For hair-splitting v, x 2',," R.H. machIne
screw with head cuI off Epoxy wing nut 'A,' 8101 1v,' long
accuracy, the beefy 0 machlna screw

8
fence Is fixed at 90'
¥.)( 1'h x 3' stop
to the blade and

~
shows u:actly where V., ,. F H. , ••J ·-~jc·Tcn","
your saw blade cuts. machine screw _._ l...d'"
And, the fence· leading design holds wider workpleces
more ~olldly and keeps your work closer than fence - ~ W Ihreadad insen. ,
;..----
V, " SAE flat washer
~
v." lock nl.ll
trailing /lgs.
Build the jig according to t he drawing at righ t. We :yj,'rod24'1ong l~

2~~
made ours from birch-veneer plywood wIth a solid
poplar tence, but you could use any 'h" plywood or r ' v" lociI.nut
medium-densit y fiberboard and a straight scrap of 2 >< 4.
Cut both piece s 1,,· longer than shown; you'll trim them
to their exact length after you build the Ilg.
v.' SAE
flat washer ~~::::'-,,<~
2" 1'I,'
2V."
12"':' , 'hole
Nott: A well-tuned tablesaw is essential-its blade
must be perfectly parallel to the miter slot to complete
..,..y v." round-overs
'h x18x27'
this project. See woodmagazlne.com/ trkkout for
information on tuning up your tablesaw.
2'· plywood

With the sled's guide bar in your tablesaw 's miter-

gauge slot, crank the saw blade up to full height. Run
the sled through th e blade, slicing off the extra '..... from
both the base and the fence. =Yi x 0/," x IS ' Sloe!< -:-.....~~9~
You can now cut with confidence by aligning the cut • Or the Width of the mner
line on your workpiece with the edge of the fence. For gauge slot. II not ¥."
repetitive cuts less than 21", damp a stop block to the
fence. When cutting pieces up to 48", Ia<:k In the sled's
built-In stop bla<:k.
Shop n~

A hot tip to
hold hinges steady
I bulld quite a few wall clocks and other
pieces that need smaller hinges, and it's
always a challenge to align the door or With the
lid perfectly with the box. For foolproof hinges
alignment, I apply a dab of hotmclt mounted to
glue to the hinges using the technique 1M caM, apply
hotmelt glue
shown at right. Aft!!r just a few seconds,
I can safely open the door, drill pilot
holes, and install a couple of screws.
the -::::::: :1
Finally. I back the screws out, break the
glue bond, scrape off the glue re.~idue,
and finish installing the hinges.
....
hinges.
- Roooid Milltr, McPherson, Ken.

Get a totally gnarly grip

on your boards
Th rough Illy many yearS of reading
WOODe m agazine, I'm still amazed at
the u ncommon Ideas used to solve
common problems in the shop. I
recently had one when I helped my son
overhaul his skateboard.
Skateboard grip-the stuff 'boarders
Check all put on top to make a non-Sl ip surface-
that apply: has an extremely strong self-adhesive
backing with a grit-textu red surface.
I have a colltdion of old dull I started using the grip on my push
drill bits I just can't throw blocks, mitersaw fe nces, and other jigs
NOY. and tools where I don't want wood to

,-,-
creep during machini ng, It 's totally
I'd rather spend my money on

............ ........_-
..., tools ttun on buying awesome!
_ . . bits. The grip comes in sheets or rolls and

,...... .., a va riety of styles. You can even use

bright colors to make your shop a little
m ore "rad." You'll find it at any decent
.. ---...,111 ...1iII skateboard shop and some sporting-
goods stores.
- Robert GOlbraith, Oshawa, Onl.

Sk'''~''''''P~~r

18 W OOD mag..a.lfne November 200 7

Clrcl6No. 1511
Sacrificial Insert saves sled's In~~~~_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _-----,
My tablesaw crosscut sled has been one
of the most useful tools in my workshop.
However, I've also found that, unless I
use the same blade each time, the kerf
widens and I can't rely on It anymore fur
chip-free cuts. And I can't make bevels
.6x%" .
wood .crews
'14" plywood sacrif icial ,,,,""r-_ r
or dado cuts without trashing the sled.
My solution: sacrificial inserts over both
cutting areas of the saw.
To apply this idea in your shop, first
determine the maximum cutting width
of the ~w from a 4S bevel cut to a full
Q
'fI" plywood
dado stack at 0 0 bevel. Then, set back the
l/."-plywood sled bed ¥ro" from each side
to create a shou lder for the insert. Use
the same technique to Sile and locate
the vertical sacrificial insert for the rear
fence. Attach the inserts with wood
screws, keeping the screw IH.·ads below
the surface of the insert so they won't
accidentally scratch a workpiece.
You can now install different inserts
for each blade, bevel angle, or dado size.
When either insert no longer provides
the needed zero-clearance, Simply
replace It.
-Don Mullikin, SI. Ptttnburg. flo.

Safe storage
for sharp garbage
Every once in awhile, I throwaway
something by mistake and have to do a
little digging in the trash to retrieve It.
I get skittish, though, because I never
know if I'm gOing to plunge my hand
onto something sharp. To prevent this
potential hazard, I kee.p a small medi-
cine bottie on my workbench in which
I accumulate used utility knife blades,
razor blades, and other sharp waste
products. When the bottle is filled, I
cap it and discard it.
-Stanley Krawvic, HontJook, Po.

Medicine bottle

~ --
Child-proof cap
continued 0" page 20
wood m Jlg JlzllM.com
Sawdust It ilNades )'Our workshop, threatening to take over. But with C~nStream Pro Filters
on )'Our side, sawdust doesn't stand a chance. CleanStream ados true HEPA filtration to
~LI( weVdry vae. So no maner what kind of dust ~LI're sucking up, 99.91% of even the
linest particles, down to 0.3 microns, are kepI out of the air. CleanStream won't clog,
and it lasts looger thar! any other filter out there. "We eYf!rl have a Orte·ye3r guarantee to
P[l]Vl! it. Declare victory over sawdust tooay. With C\eanStream. www.cleansrream.com
19
eire'" No_ 2124
Are uon best? Shop Tips
A leash for the
glue-bottle cap
All of us have experienced the problem
of the elusive glue-bottle cap. As we
work on a project, the cap gets harder
and harder to put back on the bottle, W
we eventually leave it off. Then it
immediately disappears. To solve this
problem, I attached the cap to the
hottle using a 6" length of string.
-ROfJ Alfi!!" We'l"t LO(f1)'ttlt , Ohio

Odd-shaped piece?
Strap that rascal down
Not everything a woodworker has to
deal with has straight sides or square
corners to help secure it. Sometimes, as
in the case of burl, it can be as hard to
hold onto as a greased pig. To clamp
large, irregular-shaped material to a
workbench, use a web damp fed
through a dog hole, under the bem:h,
and over the object.
- jome! Morin, WtSt Hartford, Conn.

WOOD mag..:ln" Nowmb« 2007

We've come out on top ofevery independent magazine
comparison we've ever been in. Quality dust collection
since 1993.

Ca ll Todayfor FREE Catalog! Order Online!

Milde in the USA

1.800.132A065 www.oneido-oir.com
M a ke contractor-saw dust
disappear In a flash(lng)
Capturing dust from my contractor-style tablesaw has always
bet>n impossible beCa1.1Se of the wide-open bottom . But Ch im ney
recently, I spotted an aU-metal Chimney flas h Ing at a home 1
center and immediately recognized I had my solution.
The flashing has a 16xlS" base large enough to sandwich c----l-. " "bow
firm ly between the saw's leg stand and the top unit to
basicaUy seal the housing. To create a coupling for my dust-
collection system, 1 widened the tapered 3V2" opening to 4",
inserted a 4" metal elbow, caulked the connection to ~allt,
and fastened the two together with pop rivets.
The small openings around t he blade adjustments provide
a little replacement air fo r better airflow, and I now catch
98 percent of the dust that was getting away before.
- Erin Bffin<m, Toledo, Ohio

Frugal filters for

JOIN THE SANDING fine dust collection
The microfi ltering bags and filters made
~pedally for catching fine dust in shop

REVOLUnONI vacuums can get expensive after

replacing a few. But the one" sold fur
standard upright vacs are much more
economical. I buy the cheap ones; then
modify them to fit my shop vacuum.
To retrofit the bag, I first cut the top
off just past the point that includes t he
small opening. Next, I turn the bag
Inside out so the air wIll still flow
through the filter in the norma l
direction, slip it over t he foam filter of
my shop vacuum, and usc the standard
retaining ring to hold it in place. •
-Berry Ter-rtl!, HOUSlOn, TtxOJ;

Wa 5te portio n
or , ,,'U,,"! t lner

PEEL STICK SAND

• Quick & Sim ple - Peellllld stick the sa nding sheet find )OOU'11:I
relldy to sa oo; no clips. nuts or bolts to me.. with
• Innovati'wr &. Unique - Patentee! .dhellve qost.cm ensu res sanding
sheet won't slip. rip or nlOVe, even when sanding In dlfflc~JtI com(lIlI
• Oum tM: &. Effective - Each saoding sheet can 1M uMKI !ll!Vef81~
II: ck.>gIIlll5II and WOtks better than other S/WlCIpIIper

1-800-423-3845· www.uncHast.com 22
Cirole No. 2058
What's
SecretTo
Flawless
Edge
With
NO
REWORK?

..",.·c~
". '~ How It
•
~v Works!
 Wise Bu~ Why buy?
Eighteen-gauge brads can make project assembly a
Our Experts Test cla m p -f ree task, and t hey also work g reat fo r
installing tri m and mo lding in homes. With bra ds,
you get the lenglh-21f." is t he maximum-of a

No-Hose 15· or 16-gauge f inish nail, but with a smaller hole to

f ill . Gas- or battery-powered brad na ilers hand le
these jobs just as well as their pneumatic CO USin s,
b ut wi thout the fuss of dragging around an ai r

Brad Nailers compresso r and ho~. They also make the perfect
tool fo r a t rim carpenter ret urning to a job site for
punch -list work.

PA$LODE IM200F18, 5270 Ed it or test -drive: The l M200F18 requires a 6-volt

I never realized how restricted I was until
I used Paslode's gas-powered brad na iler.
Before, I was tethered to my air
compressor and hose, b ut no longer!
The IM200F 18 drives brads-a nd sinks
them--into any hardwood or sheet
goods. Before tru~ti ng it to install trim in
my ho u ~e, I drove several sizes of brads
into I;'" hard maple, plywood
5ubflooring, and even 2" red oak. It
never fai led to sink even one brad. With
that confidence, , used it to insta ll fir
baseboard, shoe m oldi ng, and door and
window trim in my home, and it
performed ' Iawlessly.
rechargea ble battery as well as gas-f illed
fuel cells (replacement cells cost S5
each). Together they spark a small
explosion to d rive a piston, like t he
eng ine in your car. I drove more than
1,200 nails before exhausting the first
cell-without d raining the battery. The
nailer has an adjustable depth setting
that proved easy to use, and the rubber
bumper on t he nose p revented dents in
the wood.
-Te-5/rd by ~in 80~, SenieJr lksign Editor
To learn more:
800-682-3428; paslode-cordless.com

SENCO FINISH 25 $350 Editor test-drive:
It's heavy and feels awkwa rd at first, but
aft er using the 14.4 -volt rechargeable
Senco Finish 25 on a few jobs I knew it
woul d become a perma nent add it io n to
my shop. As a cabinetmaker who also
W'~~~;:~;";:';I"' to 2'1,"
BI
makes custom moldi ng, I'm working on
job sites as much as in my shop, so I
appreciate the 'reedom t he Finish 25
affords me. It's a real t imesaver to not
have to lug arou nd an air com pressor
and hose-and I don't have to worry
about scratching a clien t 's hardwood
floo rs, cabinets, or (Quntertops.
The Finish 25 has ample power for
d riving brads in ha rdwoods as well as
pine and plywood. Although it has
multiple depth settings, I left it on the
deepest sel t ing most of the t ime and
was pleased w ith t he resul t s. It has
excellent tip visi bility fo r brad p lacement,
and it never left an indentat ion on t he
wood. I also like t hat it w ill not f ire w hen
the magazine empties, protecting t he
driver. Still, I w ish the na iler w as smaller
to reach into t ig ht spaces, and t hat it
would stand on its battery. It co mes w ith
two batteri es and a o ne-hour charger.
-Ttsted by 8en Svec. Coorriooling Crofumon
To learn more:
800-543- 4596; senco.com

It's not exactly hoseless, but you don't n eed a coml~r.~ssor

Editor test-drive:
I have to admit it: I was intrigued by Kobalt's J-6901-100 compressed-air regulator
because it looks cool, but at the ~ame time I was skeptical of its abilities. Here's how it
works: A tank filled with compressed carbon dioxide (COl) provides the power for your
pneumatic brad nailer (not included). You control the COl pressure with the regulator,
which clips onto your belt.
It didn't take long to d ial in the regulator, but it worked best at the maximum of 120
psi; lower levels just didn't sink longer nails. Using my own nailers, I drove 2", l8-gauge
brads into red oak and hard maple, and it socked them in perfectly. I noticed that some
nailers require more air per nail than others (based on watching the draw on the
pressure gauge), so you might have to wait a second or two between nails. I also tried
the Kobalt with my lS-gauge finish nailer, and it powered that driver with no problem. I
drove a combined 268 brads and finish nails of assorted lengths on a 9-oz. tank. When
you've expended your tank's supply, return it to lowe's for an exchange. Replacements
cost S16 for the standard 9-oz. tank, and S27 for the optionallO-oz. tank (S36 new). •
- Ttl /rei by Bob Hunltr, TOO/l ond TtclmiqlNl Editor Weight: 3.1Ibs.
To learn more: (Including 9'02. tank.
800-445-6937; lowes.com ududing l"Iolil@r)
WE'VE TURBOCHARGED OUR 18 VOLT TOOLS.
(including those you already own)
Qldck and Easy Jig

Drum-
sanding
guide
Sand perfect round-end cutouts on
your drill press or spindle sander.

hen forming cutouts like the

W ones in the base sides and

ends (C, D) of the Ikebana
vase project on page 68, the cutout
STEP 1 LAY OUT THE SANDING DRUM HOLE ON THE BASE

(Twice the leng1h

22"
of longest worIq)iece) I
edges must be sanded. even after
ca reful bimdsawing. You' ll want to keep {~ "",,",.':'~~~':~,.~:",,~.~. plus W J
the straight middle straight, the round
ends round, and the transition between
the two smooth. To get consistent
results. here's a simple guide you can
make in a hurry. The one shown fits the 1% " (Distance from the top edge 01
1/.- sanding drum used on the Ikebana workpiece to the center 01 the cutout end radios plus '1.1")
vase project, but you. can make one to
fit any sill' sanding drum, and use it on
your drill press or spindle sander.
STEP 2 MARK THE FENCE
Cut a l/t"-thick scrapwood fence and
a 1/." tempered·hardboard base to size.
Make the fence I" wider than the
diameter of the sanding drum and the
base I" wider than the workpiece
width plus the fence width. Make both
parts twice the length of the longest Position of the
part you need to sand. Then mark a ..,." sanding drum
centered In the base hole
hole center on the base [Step 1], and
bore a hole Ih" larger In diameter than
the diameter of the sanding drum.
Now position the fence on the base STEP 3 posmON THE FENCE
v." sanding drum Fence

...
(Step l ), and trace the portion of the
\ """"' : spaoe,
~
..,.'..
J to
hole that the fence overlaps onto the
hottom o( the (ence. Bandsaw along
the traced line. Adhere the (ence to the
base with double-faced tape.
FENCE.\
.: .-::
'-

Place the fence on the drill-press

table, lower the sanding dru m Into the
hole, and lock the quilt. On a spind le
sander, simply place the fence over the
sanding drum. Position the fence (Step
3], and clamp It in place. Now, after
band5awlng the cutout close to t he
pattern line, sand It to final shape by
Auler ~Eq....
Bandsawn workDlece ' . ,
with patlem affIxed ~.' (Finished deplh of cutout)
moving t he part hack and forth over fOund, 41nd the sanding drum quits
the drum until both "fect" contact the removing material from the center. •
fence, the cutout end~ are perfectly IIlultrltlonl: ROll.nne L<!Moln<!; Lo' .... Johnson

26
For cunent prometlons. comple.. product into
and a list 01 dealers near vau:
WWW.ERAL.CA
 See a Slide Show of this
project coming together at
woodmagazine.com/ slldes

Start with the case Bandsaw and drum-sand the arch to

1 From edge-joined white oak (we used

quartersawn), cut the sides (A), diVid-
ers (B), fixed center shelf (C), adjustable
Ct;nter shelvt;s (D), adjustable side shelves
(E), bottom (F), and top (Gl to the sizes
listed [Materials list, page 34]. Mark the
time of glue-upon the boards, as explained
in the Snap Tip, below. Then cut the cleats
(H) and bottom rails (I) to size.
shape. USing this rail as a tt;mplate, draw
the arch on the other rail. Bandsaw and
sand it to shape.
4 Rout 1/5" round-ovcrs along the bot-
tom ends of the sides (A) [Drawing 21.
Complete the round-overs on the bottom
edges using a ISO-grit sanding block.
Mark centerpoints for holes to
S receive the 14" brass paddle supports

2 USing a dado blade in your tablesaw,

Cllt the ¥4" dadoes ~" deep into the
appropriate faces of the s1des (A), divid-
for shelves on the appropriate faces of
the SiMs (A) and dividers (R) [Drawings 1
and 2]. Note that the holes in the sidt;s
ers (B), bottom (F), and cleats (H), where
Showcase your dimensioned [Dri!lwl ngs 1 and 2 , Photo
craftsmanship with
AJ. To safely guide the long parts, attach
an extension to your miter gauge. Next,
this easy-to-build USing an auxiliary fence attached to

masterpiece. It goes
together using
- your rip fence, cut the *" rabbet %" deep
along the top ('.nd of each side on the
inside face. Now cut the 14" rabbet W'
deep along the back edge of each side to
straightforward receive the plywood back (L).

rabbet, dado, and 3 USing a compass, draw the 4" radius

at the bottom of each side (A), where
dimensioned (Drawing 11. JlgS<lW or
groove joinery.
handsaw (with a support stand) to shape,
Super-simple fau x and sand smooth. Next, mark the center
of the arch on a bottom rail (1), where
tenons give th e look dimensioned. Draw the arch using a u",y;;;;;t.i;,;;;;;r.~;-;~; stopblock to
of through-tenons fairing stick. (For a free fairing stick ensure identical dado locations in the sides
plan, go to woodm agazine.com /fairing.) [A), dividers (B), bottom (Fl, and cleats (H).
for the bottom rails.

• Overall dimensions: 57' wide x 13"
deep x 55' high.
• Materials needed: Quartersawn white
oak and W quartersawn white OJk
plYWOOd.
• for a convenient way to get all of th('
hardw<'lre needed for the doors plus
bras5 paddle ~upports for the ~helves,
see Source.
Skill Builder
• Learn how to easily make faux tenons
that fit inside shallow mortises, making
the tenom virtually indistinguishable
from "the real deal.~
A simple way to
track glue -up times
When you have a limited number of
damps and severa l glue-ups to do,
you don't want to leave the parts in
the clamps longer than needed. On
the other hand, you don't want to
remove the parts before the glue has
firmly set, risking misaligned or poorly
joined workpieces. (Yellow g lue sets
in approximately 30 minute1 at a tem-
perature above 50" F.) Here's a simple
method to keep things straight. Mark
the starting time of each glue -up with clamps, and you can tell which boards
chalk. That way, you'll know whell you were glued up the longest so you can
can safely remove the boards from the work on them first.

29
 ®

i II the
di viders (B) face up. Then glue and damp the back edge of the bollom (F). Check t he offset
dividers lind fixed center shelf IC) together. along the length using a co mbination square.

¥. rabbet ~- deep
r--
r '!T
11¥."
I 12' ,I Location of part® Countersunk

r
on inside lace shank hole

'"
-"
VO rabbet
¥I'deep
"
01'0'
\I.. holes
- 2'r-- t¥'\ f-
!
¥I-deep ~
.
~-. W 22 14 '
W
W- • , W
~_/
· :v. x 5'h' mortises
~2' I-
Vo' holes location 01

1- 2L V." holes
".,' de:!£' for
parts<dJ
SIDE
part(!)on
inSide face

L ·· , 541/.
r ,~
~'deep on
outside fac&

-L
(ou tside f ace 01 left sid e shown)

and the center group of holes in the out-

, side faces of the dividers are 3
,..· deep. The
~, dad~ 46'h

,,'-
, , top and bottom groups of holes in the
dividers are through· holes. Drill the holes
USing a brad-point bit and II backer to

j'
•
@
,
r Vo' holes

~
prevent tear-out of the t hrough-holes. Use
a fence with a stopblock on your drill
press to ensure alignment and consistent
spacing of the holes, and wrap a piece of
masking tape around the bIt for a visual
,
, ,
Fron, • depth stop wh en drilling the l,4' _deep
holes. To ensure correct orientat ion of
F. ~ ,-
the dividers during assembly, identify the
front edges.
®
,,'-
:y." dado

-'\ -
6 0n the bottom face of the bottom (F)
and top faces of the cleats (H ), mark
centerpoints for mounting holes cen·

r LEFT DI VI DER tered over the dadoes for attaching the

• • (inside face shown, parts to the dividers (S) rDrawing 21 .
right divider is a mirror image) Then ma rk centerpoints for mounting
7' • •
holes on the bottom face of the {rollt cleat
Lc...r '1_.,4 1"\J
,-2' _ _
•
D PARTSVIEW and for ¥l6" slots %5" long on the top face
of the back cleat {Drawing 2a j for attach-

'--"
1r-"- -- - - - 4'W--,-------------i1
LEFT SIDE
(InSide lace shown.
right side is a mirror image)
2'
1 6'

J
30
iog the top (G) later. To ensure correct Assemble the case the cleats and into the side [Drawing 2,
orientation of the back cleat during
assembly, identify the bal:k edge. Drlll 1 Glue and clamp together the divid-
(;rli (B) .mu fix~ center shelf (CJ
Photo C). Drive the screws. Now mount
the right side to the assembly.
the collntersunk shank holes, and form
the slots. For the #S screws in this proj-
ect, urill ¥.n" shank holes and 7,IoW" pilot
[Drawing 2, Photo BJ. Use right-angle
clamping braces to kE'E'p the assembly
square. (For a free clamping brace plan,
4 Glue and clamp the back bottom
rail (1) to the bottom (F), W from its
back edge lPhoto DJ. Note that this poSi-
holes. You'll drill the angled counter· go to woodmagazine.com/bracc.) tions the rail W from the back edges of
sunk shank holes at the ends of the
cleats and into the sides (Al when
mounting the cleats to the case.
2 GlUe the bottom (F) to the dividers!
shelf assembly (B/C). USing the
shank holes in the bottom as guides,
the sides (A). Using the shank holes in
the side mortiSes as guides, drill pilot
holes into the raiL Drive the screws.

7 LaY out the ¥..x5h" mortises at the

bottom of the sides (A) on the outside
faces [Drawing 11 to receive the faux teo-
drill pilot holes into the dividers. Drive
the screws. In the same way, glue and
screw the cleats (H) to the dividers,
Now mount the front rail ~. from thE'
front edges of the sides [Drawing 2J.

ons U) IDrawing :oll. Rout the l4"-dccp aligning the cleats flush with the front ED BACK CLEAT SLOT DETAIL
mortises, and square the corner s with a and back edges of the dividers and

\t:m"~ ~
chisel. To easily and precisely rout the ensuring the cleat with the slots is cor·
mortises using a template and a pattern
bit, sec pase 84. Then dr1l1 the counter-
sunk shank holes through the m ortises
3
rectly oriented at the back.
Glue and clamp the left side (A) to
the bottom (F) and cleats (H), flush ,,"
for attaching the bottom rails (I ), tho front. Then drill countersunk ® 3"
"'
8 sand all of the parts to 220 grit. Set
the adjustable center and side shelves
(D, E) and top (G) aside.
3~
.-:eft
mounting holes, angled at 5\ through

S' ;: 57"
¥'I'sIJ
",,~'Iong
@
J
#8x1V. ' F.H.wood SCfeWSC0-
11
- j

II
zJgL.- "

5 :~ ~
=---
Coun1ersunk shank
hole angled at 5° 'i II ¥~. dadoes 'hi' deep:

....->~
~ ' ~
#6 x 1 v." F.H. "
wood screw ' ---
Countersunk shank holes f--'H;:_ _
I ·· -~
- =:
-
20/, '
o EXPLODED VI EW ", ,", 'i ... 491/4' , ,, j p

, , "
~

"
ml
... . ,.

""' II 11/. spring

catches
/":i" ,
--:'\

1t1+ X ¥4"
l
- .. ... .

wire nail

® Si' "~,
@
'/4' brass
M paddle suppon \ 0 ®
p
.' -'@r.
- ...- I?-
......... ....
"

~ .;.Y
11¥.'
®I (9
'~
'~ © . 47 '/.

, -1 2%··_...,....._

I ;Jv.....
..•.
,
! ~ ij) - ll1f~'

~~~~~c~ ~0 JI /
/
'i 20%"
~
Z'
--
- 11 ¥."
\
18" ...
,;z,,;" ~~ 13%0- :::.t , I I
I ~ . ¥""
/1'(4
~

"-·'''''I." FH ~~ "
~9V>' "--
sf~
@ wood screw ". .... ___ '.
-<-" """./ ~.~ :.~~
¥. 'te' dado
W deep round-overs
"

.... J
'I." chamfers
\
'I.' round·over #8 x 1'h' F.H. wood screw
woodmilgilzln •. c:om 31
 21(.' panial-wrap inset hinge
EJDOOR
(Right d oor viewed 2" Add the trimmings
@
from back)
1 To fOlffi the faux tenons 0) to fit
into t he mortises in the sides (A),
cut a 5~ 1 2· ple<..1: from *" stock. (We
test-fittt.'tI the stock to emure a snug fit in

r
the Jf.x5W mortises.) Rout ~. c hamfer~
on each end [Drawing 2J. Sand the ends
T smooth. Then crosscut a %"-Iong tenon
from each end. Repeat
8¥.' to make two morc ten-

t s s

2
o ns. For help with this
pro({'ss, seepage84. Now
gl ue the tenons into the
101I..1!! mortises,
Cut the trim (K) to
the size listed. Rout
a ~. round-over ao oss
both ends of each trim
'Yo"
© ..~._. _ ring pull piece (Drawing 2J, back·
R Ing up the pieces with

li ";
scrap to prevent tear·
29"'" out. Sand smooth. Then ,
glue and damp the trim
10 the front edges of the
bottom (F) and front
R
Groove tiller, centered
cleat (H), centering t he
in door opening trim side-to-side on the case.
between parts@and®
3 Position the top (G) on Y0ul work-
bench with the bottom face up.
Then, using a helper, place the case,
with the deats (HJ down, on the top,
flush al the back and centered side-to-
side. Using the mounting holes in the
front d eal and slots in the back cleat a.~
gUides, drill pilot holes into the top.
© Orive the wood screws and panhead
screws wjth flal washers lOt-awing 21 .

4 Cut the back (L) to size to fit the

opening. Sand smooth. SE't it aside.

Time for the doors

1 From the straightest and flattest
stock you can find, cut the stiles
(M), top rails (N), hottom ralls (0), and
center rails (P) to the sizes listed.
v.' grool/9 '1-'." deep,
centered
10*' _ _ _
DlRAIL AND STILE DETAILS
(Vie wed from back ) 2 us,ng a dado blade in your tahlesaw,
cui the rabbet and groove along the
edges of t he stiles (M), and the rabbets
_ ~' rabbets Yo' deep~ along the edges a nd across the ends of
%' rabbet the top rails (N), bottom rails (0), a nd
'h' deep

~::::::j!1JI,
center rails (P) (Drawings 3, l a, and lb]
following the five-step cutting \equcncc
%'~bbets (Drawing 41. Verify that the parts fit
v.' deep togeth~r (Orrectly.

~t:~:::5§~"['V:r',~deep
p
abbots ElltDOOR JOINERY DETAil
2'
(Viewed from top)
Outside lace

% ' rabbet
1h' deep

32 WOOD milQilzin e November 2007


3 TD assemble the doors, cut two 1><8"
spacers from \4' hardboard for posi-
tioning the center rails (1'). Then, glue,
assemble, and clamp the stiles and rails
for a door together wIth the spacers
[Photo El. Repeat for the other door.
4 cut the groove fillers (Q) to size.
Glue and damp t he fillers into the
grooves in the stiles (M), centering the
flllers in the top and bottom door open -
ings [Drawing 3] . The fillers keep the
glass centered side-ta-side in the doors.
cut the bottom vertical glass stops
S (R), top vertical glass stops (S), and
horizontal glass stops (n to the sizes
listed to fit th e rabbeted optnings in th e
ElCUTIING THE TENONS AND GROOVES INTO THE DOOR STILES AND RAILS
1 Cut a :h" rabbet
th" deep along the
iMide edge of part @.
Auxiliary
dado blade
4 Cut an opposing
¥ii ' rabbet V.' deep
~oss the e~s 01 parts
®.@,and(£).
woodmagal.lne.com
Use a spacer to position With a door centered in its opening using 1;,."
door hinges on the sides ( !ihimi, and flu s h at the front, m;uk the hinge
bottom (F) and fro nt cleat mounting holes on the stiles (M).
doors. To prevent splitting of the stops
during installation, drill pilot holes
through the stops using a #17x]" hrad
7 TO mount the doors, cut a 20/16>:3'
spacer from 14" hardboard. Using
the spacer to pOSition the 2W partial-
with its head snipped off. wrap inset hinges at the top and bottom
6 Have pieces of W glass cut to fit the
door openings less W in width and
of each side (A) IDrawing 2, Photo FJ and
keeping the hinge barrels tight against
length. For an aged look, we used a
"seedy"-style glass, which we found at
our local glass store. This type of glass
the front edges of the sldes, mark the
mounting holes centered in the hinge
openings. Drill pilot holes, and fasten
has air-bubble inclusions and some tex- the hinges to the sides using the sup-
turing. 1£ you choose to use this type of plied ~rews_ Then mount the remaining
glass, make sure that you specify t he hinges centered along the door opening
widt h" and lengths (not just the dimen- on each side.
Si0115) for the glass so that the texturing
runs in the same direction. You'll install 8
:ente~ each, do(~r in it_~ open I ng by
IIlsertmg v,,6' shims at the top, bot-
the glass and stops after finishing. tom, and side of the door opposite the
Step 2 Cut a centered V4' ~roove Cut a ¥." rabbet
;y," deep alon.s.,lhe Inside ',;" deep across
edge of part (MJ . the ends of parts
®.@,and®_
@
Inside face 'I.
I
:y.'
,
1/." dado blade
Step 5 CUi a ¥e ' rabbet ,t';>' deep
along the appropriate
edges 01 parts
@.@.,,,,,®.
@@.®
:::r
'."
"" no'" blade Inside face 'Vi' dado blade
II
 Materials List
~'''''~fHO sin
Cilise T W L Mati Qly
Keep ureW5 on the tip of a
'I," ,,' ,
• """
screwdriver with this trick A 54'.1. EQO

How many ti mes have you tried to guide a :;crew on dividers 0/4' lP/." 46%" '00 ,
the end of your screwdriver into a mounting hole C fi~ed center shelf l/.' 11'1." 21';.0' EQO ,
and had the screw fall off (and, as Murphy's Law
would have it, roll out of sight)? Here's a simple way
0 adju5tablecenter ',; " 11'/ " 20"1,"
wives • 1
EQO ,
to avoid the frus trat ion (and hu nt). Transform your
ordinary screwdriver into an "attractive" one by
, ""'~
adj ust~side ]14" 10'14" 12'/," EQO ,
attaching a rare-earth mag net to it near the tip. A F bottom ;0-.' l W." 49'1.' EQO ,
magnet as small as '14" in diameter provides plenty G 'I." B" 57' EQO ,
of pull to hold a screw securely to the tip, making "" 'I. 3' ,
positioning and driving the screw in any orientation
or tight space a snap.
H dealS
bottom rails ... 6' 48h'
49'1." 00
QO

, 'I." S'l," W
,•
J" faux tenons QO
trim W '/4'. 49%" QO
L bock If." 47V." 49'1." 00'
,
hinges. (The hinges offset the door "116", A Remount the top (G) and doors. Doon (2 needed)
so you don't need .~hims on this ..ide.) ...-rhen mount the 11,-1" ring pulls and sr~ )/." ,
Ensure that the doors are flush at the keyhole escutcheons on the inner door
M
1/4 " 45'/,"
10'/,"
00
,
front. Then, reach through the back of stiles (M) rDrawings 2 and 3 1 using the
N
0
top rails
bottom rails '/4
"
4' '0';.'
QO
QO ,
the case and mark the hinge mounting supplied fasteners. To create faux key- P (enteffai15 'I." ,
holes on the door stiles (M) [Photo GJ . hole openings on the stiles, trace the
groove f1Mers 'I." "
'I.
10'1a" QO

•
Remove the doors. Drill the pilot holes. shape of the escutcheon keyhole slot
Q
" 00

,- ,
bottom Yertkal
9 Mark a centerpoint on each inner
door stile (M) for the h6" hole to
onto each stile with a fine-tip, permanent
black marker, and fill in the outline.
R
glass stops
topVE;rl\calgl.m
II," 1/," 29·'11" QO

,
receive the threaded boss on a 11A1" ring
pull [Drawing 3J. (The pull mounts with 5 Finally, pmition the haLk (I.) in its
opening, and drive the #17x l N
5

T horizontal glass
II," II," 8]/." QO

a screw at t he top and an escutcheon

pin at the bottom.) Drill the holes, using
a backer to prevent tear-out. You'll
mount the pulls and keyhole escutch-
eons after finishing.
Mount the clips for the 1~"
1O spring catches '"41" from the top
and bottom of each inner door stile (M)
and centered, using the supplied screws.
Reposition the doors in their openings,
and drive the hinge screws. Then engage
the spring catches on the clips. Now
drill pilot holes, and screw·mount the
catches to the bottom (F) and front cleat
(H) [Drawing 2J . Because the space
between the catches and dividers (B) Is
tight, see the Shop Tip, above, for an easy
way to drive the screws.
Finish up
wire nails [Drawing 21. Move the book-
case to the deSired location. Then
install the adjustable center and side
shelves (0, E) using 1/4" brass paddle
supports. Now ~tep back and admire
your workmanship, and keep the faux-
tenon secret to yourself. ..
Written by O_n Du .... 11 with Chuck Hoedlund
Project d oesign: Keyln Boyle
Ilh.lllral ionl: Rounn .. l .. Molnoe ; L(I~nll Johnson
Cutting Diagram
A o E oil· rubbed brol"lZt' finish, 00. 01 H31.92, $3.40 ea<h (6):
:v. x 7'1.)( 96' Quartersawn white oak 15.3 bd. 11.)
, 4 needed)
' K R ..ach (2): keyhole ~u\(h~ with dark brown finish, 00.
B B
:Y. x 7'1. )( 96' Quartersawn white oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
stOp5
'I,' 'I," 81/," QO
•
-Par! ini!lallycu! ""..nile. See!~ instructions.
Materials ""y: EQO-edge-joinl'd ql.lilrtersawn white
oak, QO-quartersawn white 0<111, OOP- qu.artl'fSil"n·o
whfteuak plywood.
Supplies: .8x,Vl ard H~I'Il" IlathlSld wood screws,
;\'8~1'1<' panh~ scre">'lS. _9 flat w~~hen. f 17x1/l aod
11,7"," brads, II'7x'l.' wire Mill, 'l.x9'hxSY.' glass (2)
ard VI)(9'/j)(29W glass (2), 2'1. partial-wrap inset hinges
16), 1v.' ~iflQGI\(he~ withdi~(4), W brasl paddle
wpporn(32)
Blade ",nd bh.$: Oado·bladooset; W and V~· round-
over. 45' chamfer. arK! Ij," ~ttem roWI bits;
v.' brad·point bit.
Source
Hardware: 2\'/ p,ortial-wrap inset hinges with
l'i!" spring c~tches withclips, no.OOW11 .02. S.85 ea<h (4);
I'll" ril19 pun with dark bronzelinish,no. 01,1..28.44, $2.10
01,1..28.45, $1 .10eilm (2); lJ." blassp<Kldle~ppom. 00.
63Z06.D4. $5.25 ~. of 20 (2 pkgsJ CaU or dd l~ Valley,

1 1{emove the doors, hinges, spring

catches and clips, and the top (G) .
Finish-sand to 220 grit any areas that
(2 needed) 'Plane or resaw to the thicknesses

KG) ((c)
listed if) lhe Materials list.
!(Fj-'" )j
800-871-8158; leevalley.com.

need it, and remoV(' the dust. ;y. x 7'1. x 96" Quartersawn while oak (5.3 bd. fl. )
l{ibid ...... .... ~® ,!
2 APply a stain and clear finish. We
applied Varathane no. 266 Early
American Stain, followed by three coats
:Y. x 7'1.)( 96'· Quartersawn white oak (5.3 bd. fl.)
~

¥. )( 7Y4 X 96' QUflrtersawn white oak (5.3 bd. 11.)

(2 needed)

of Aqualar Water-Based Clear Satin Pro- E E G

tective FinIsh, sanding to 320 grit Y. x 7'/. x 00" Quartersawn white oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
between coats.

3 1nstall the glass and glass stops (R, 5,

and T) in the back of the doors with
veliE}:!'G} , .a
Y. x 7'1. x 96" Quartersawn white oak (5 .3 bd. fl.)
#17xW brads. Place a piece of cardboard
on the glass to protect it when driving
HHX'® %J2M il~
the brads. Y. x 7'/. It 96" Quartersawn white oak (5.3 Ixt. fl.) 'I. x 46 )( 96' Quartersawn while oak plyvlood

34 WOOD maqaIlne NMl'mllor.r 1007

Quality is what our brand is based on. And it's what your projects demand and deserve.
 oodworker Dave Knau needed

W a ceiling for his new base-

ment Tee room, but he wanted
more t han office-style acou stic panels
and skinny metal grids. His solution: an
aU-wood ceiling that looks permanent,
but disassemhles for easy acc~s_~ to over-
head wiring and plumbing.
Dave's simple system consists of only
three groups of parts: wall-mounted
st rips for the perimete r of the room, grid
pieces, and panels cut from IA" plywood
(Drawing 1J . Installation requires hard-
wa re ava ilahle at most home centers.

Plan your ceiling grid

Unlike manufact ured suspended ceil·
In gs limited to 2 .. 2' or Z><4' panels and
1"·wide grids, you can custom ize t he
size, shape. and detail s of wooden ccll-
ing panels to suit your space. When
Dave planned the grid for the ba!>t'ffient
of his Windsor Heights, Iowa, home, he
settled on center panels 30' sq\lare and
15><30' sIde panels to emphasize the
long, n ar row shape of the room that
h olds his Sh o p-built 18-foot shuffl!!-
board table (see page 40). When he
helped build a friend's basement ceiling,
though, he used Z'-square panels that
efficiently med 4><8' plywood sheets.
To begin planning a ceiling, draw
your room to scale on graph paper.
(We'll usc an 8x 12' space for this exam-
ple.) Measure the room from sevt!ral
locations and note bumps or dips In the
walls. Mark the locations of overhead
joists that might interfere with ret:e~d
lights. If you'\--e ever laid a tile noor.
you'll find the follOWing planning point-
ers a snap. Th is is even easier because
you can customize the panel sizes.
Draw two centerlines the lengt h and
width uf the room, as shown In red
[Drawing 2] . Then divide the space into
~quares reprl'SCntlng the panels (as
~ h nwn in blue) starting with whole

WOOD m;agou.lne NOVf'mher 2007

 D EXPLODED VIEW OF SUSPENDED CEILING

~Recessed
¥~ )( 2" plywood stifteners
Eye lag screw
~ V4" ptywood panel
~ " rv light li)(lure

1¥. l( :Y"
Main grid
1,4 )( " plywood piece
grid reinlorclnlj strip
"longer then grid piece
squares along the centerllnes. A 2'-square
panel provide5 a good starting point for Wall
your plans, but you can increase or Wall
decrease the grid size and shape to fill
the ceiling with equal-size panels.
If you end up with slivers of a grid
space along two or four walls, redraw
your grid layuut to place rOWS of panels
centered on the center lines and work
toward the edges. You'll ~ti1l have partial
panels along the "'ails, but they'll be at
least half the width and length of the
full-size panels.
As you map the room, draw in where
you'll insert overhead !ighh and heating
vents on individual panels IDrawing 31.
If ncccs~ry, vary the grid sizes to work
around obstacles or accommodate
recessed lights, as Dave did. Include any EJ CElllNG GRID LAYOUT II MARK LIGHTS AND OBSTACLES
low-hanging obstructions, such as ducts
or pipes. This ceiling will hang about 4"
beneath the joists, so you may need to
frame around obstructions, as shown
above, and enclose them with drywall to
avoid dropping the entIre ceiling
uncomfortably low.
For minimal butt joints, plan the wall-
to-wall, or main, grid pieces to span the
shortest dimension of the room. Then
letter and number the grid lines on your
drawing. In this example, the numbered
lines represent the main grid pieces, and
the letters indicate the }X>sitions of short
cross piece~ that hang between the main
grid pieces to separate the panels. When 2r-~r;r-+--+1-t-~
you're satisfied with the layout, mark
the walls where pieces will go with the
mounting lot:atlon, the letter or number
of the part, and the wall-to-wall mea·
surement indicating its length.
Before you begin making and hang·
ing ceIling parts, wire the room for lighb
you'll install. Then modify or add to A B c
your ductwork to heat and cool the
~~~~
Number the locations of the main grid pieces
space. Connect vents mounted on ceil- Room boundaries
Overhead joists and letter the location s of cross pieces. Then
ing panel~ to nearhy metal ducts with Center! ines/gri dl ines plan the locations for any recessed lights
flexible hose. Grid locations (in yellow) and obstacles, such as ducts.

woodmagallne.(om 37
IJGRID ASSEMBLY DETAil ROUT THE FIRST PAIR OF BEADS
Wall
overhang
1f.,' l' 'h'
on each end 'h'

Wall-rTloonled strip ~

v.' V~· bead

Finishing
nails
Main grid piece

¥. x l " pl ywood grid reinforcing

stri p glu9{! and nailed 10 grid
Cross piece

.. "

~/~:::5'
Overhangs on the reinforcing strips support the main grid pieces on the wall-mounted strips.
Similar overhangs also support the cross pieces on the main grid. Panel, rest ~ween the
reinforcing strips on the grid pieces and on the wall-mounted strips. V

DREINFORCIN.G srwe.M!llllin.fiG l1G. _-~2~.

------ -~
Bollom board

-------
centered to create
'h' rabbets

~
'"-'i
'//Y)
l'h'
_____ --

I
-
~----

\12'
,

--
________ ----
~________

.
__ --------- I
----:.-:--~~----~
_ _~~ ____ ----.::~
~ _-..-------
- --
'tJ01 aLL 10 LLlailb an
additional spacer.
_r:. ,::'
- ~~ - - ,"'----...
< - -~
"
-:.. / "
--/
2'h'

Vary the length of this jig to suit the grid strips you'll reinforce. For grid strips longer than the
jig, build the jig long enough to cut a " ple<e from the end that can be damped onto your
glue-u p at the opposite end.

Rout the grid pieces
Main Wid pieces must hold a $lraight
line over long distances, so use straight-
grainedW stock. Rip 2'-wide strips to
make both the main grid pieces and
cruss pieet's. Then rip H::'"-wide blanks
to make the wall-mounted strips.
You can leave the grid pieces undeco-
rated or vary from the profile Dave used.
A beaded edge looks attractive wh~re the
cross pieces intersect with the main grid
pleces, and it doesn't sacrifice pand sup-
port strength.
To cut this profile, insert a lAo edge-
beading bit in a table-mounted router;
then adjust the height until you create a
half-round shape on the edge of a test
scrap. After you fine-tune the bit height,
place a grid strip on the router table with
the he ..t face down, and rOILt a half-bt'ad
along both edges [Photo AJ. Then rout
the workpieces vertically to complete
both beads [Photo 8). For the wall-
mounted strips, follow the same routine,
hut only on one ~t1ge.
Smooth the beads with a profile sand-
ing block (see Sources) up to 180 grit
[Photo C] . Then sand up to 180 grit on
the flat portions of the grids and wall-
mounted strips.
Now you're ready to cut the grid pieces
to lenglh. Cut main grid pieces to a wall-
to-wall measurement minus twice the
thickness of the wall-mounted strips
(lYl" as shown here). If the main grid
pieces require butt-joining two or more
pieces, space the jOints to avoid inter-
secting a cross piece. Label all the parts
with their installation location.
Call In the reinforcements
Ewn with support wires, grid pieces
need reinforcement to prevent twisting
or sagging. Dave at tached plywood strips
on the top surfaces of all grid pieces.
These strips also separate, poSition, and
support the panels.
from -W H-C plywood, rip 1 '-wide grid
reinforcement ~trip5. The l' width cre-
ates no wood movement problems on
2" -wide hardwood, but avoid using strips
Wider than I" on hardw(xxi grid pieces
wider than Z".
Don't worry if even 8' reinforcement
strips don't span you r main grid pieces.
Just butt strips together, making sure
any reinforcement-strip butt joint falls
at least l' from a hutt joi nt in the main
grid piece.
Cut eaeh plywood reinforcement
strip, or combination of strips, I" longer
than the hardwood grid piece below it
to leave ih" overhangs on both ends.
To save t ime gluing plywood strips to
grid pieces, make a reinforcing strip
mounting jig [Drawing 5] that centers

38
the plywood strip on the hardwood grid
piece, and leaves the Vi" overhang. Glue
and nail the strips to the grid pieces
[Photo oj . A pneumatic nailer with 1104"
brads simplifies the jab.

Now make the panels

For a light surface that rdlects light and
contrasts with the oak grid, Dave made
his ceiling panels from lA" hirch ply-
wood. As another time-saver, he sprayed
a clear film finish on all of one side of a
plywood sheet before he cut the ceiling
panels to length and width.
To calculate the panel length, add t"
(for the two overhangs) to the distances
between edges of the main grid pieces.
Cross-cut the plywood sheets to these
lengths; then cut the center panels to
width according to your grid layout,
again adding 1" for the overhangs. From
the remaining blanks that you cut to
length, cut edge panels for one side of
the room to width plus 1". Cut pieces for
the other edge of the room about W
wider than necessary to fine-tunc the fit
during final assembly. This way, the
cross grid pieces will forill a straight line
down the length of the room, as they
did In Dave's rec room.
From Dave's experience, 104" plywood
panels can sag with time. To keep them
flat, attach four 2"-wide stiffeners of 34"
plywood on edge atop each panel about
2" from the edges (Photo El. You can saw
time by reinforcing two or more panels
at once. First, glue and apply the four
reinforcing strips to a panel resting on a
flat surface. Next, place the second panel
directly over the glue-up. Glue another
four reinforcing strips. and position
them on the panel. Repeat this up to
four times; then cover the stack with a
scrap of '0/4" plywood the size ofyoUT cei l-
ing panels. \Veight the top sheet IPhoto
Fl and allow the glue to dry.

Hang the ceiling grid
To insta ll the wall-mounted strips, mea-
sure down at least 4" from the lower
edges of the overhead joists, and mark a
level line the length of the wall. You can
use a chalk string and level for this, but
it's faster to use a self-leveling laser level
(Photo GJ suspended from the ceiling.
(Sec Sour((~s.) Use your first line as the
starting puint for marking the remain-
ing level lines around the room. Cut the
wall-mounted strips to fit, and then nail
them in place with the top edges at the
level line (Photo HJ.
Where each main grid piece will hang,
stretch a string from one side of the
room to the other. Roughly every 4',
insert an eye lag screw (see Sources) into
the subfloor or joist directly ahove the
string. A. driver bit made to hold these
screws [Photo J] simplifies the job. To
work around pipeS, ducts, and other
obstructions, reduce the space between
lag screws as needed. But avoid spacing
them further apart.
Next, drill 7,164" pilot holes Into the
main grid reinforcing strips to corre-
spond with the positions of the eye lag
screws. Insert each l%" eyebolt to the
same depth.
To support the main grid pieccs, cUl
lengths of 12-gauge wire about 6" longer
than the estimated distance between
the eyes of the lag screv.·s and the main
grid eyebolts. Thread a wire through
each eye lag screw and Iwisl the end to
hold it in place.
To determine where to bend the wires
for even support of the main grid pieces,
measure from the top surface of the
hardwood portion of the grid to the top
imide portion of an eyebolt In the rein-
forcing strip. At that distance above the
top of the wall-mounted strips, stretch a
taut string or position a laser level to
intersect the wires hanging hom the eye
0
lag screws. Bend each wire 90 where it
touches the string or laser line.

... ood mllgazln e .com 39


Starting at one end of the room, sup-
port the first main grid piece on the
wall-mounted strips using the over-
hang on the reinforcing strip~ (Photo J
and Drawing 4]. Then thread a support
wire through each eyebolt and tWist
the end to hold it in place (Photo KJ.
Hang the first panel between the wall
strip and main grid piece, and .~lide it to
one corner. Add a grid cross piece [Photo
Ll, followed by another panel, and
repeat until you reach the end of the
row. If you fine-tune the last panel in a
row, note which side of the room
required the fttted panel. By fitting
40
Shop-Built Shuffleboard Tables
Dave Knau's suspended ceiling is the
perfect complement to his other
WOodworking specialty: building
shuffleboard tables. His rec room
holds one mea5uring nearly 21' long,
32' wide, and 34' tall.
Dave's interest in making an indoor
shuffleboard table started when a
friend planning to buy one discovered
that the commercial versions either
co~t thousands of dollars or were
poorly made from plastic-covered
partideboard. Since that tirst table,
Dave has made four others.
Each table has three main
assemblies: the playing surface, or
game board, on which the 8·ounce
weights glide; the table that supports
the game board; and the legs holding
up the table. Dave used two layers of
V." plywood topped with a Vi'-thick
glue-up of maple pieces to make the
lB'-long, 20"·wide game board for his
table shown be/ow. Scoring and foul
lines on the table are inlaid walnut for
contrast. To keep the game board
dead.flat, he ran the assembly
through a drum sander.
Nit's not l13rd to do," Dave says.
"What'~ intimidating is the size: You
only the panels on that side, your grid
cross pieces form a straight line as
they're installed, as shown on page 36.
Then hang your second main grid
piece, followed by panels and cross-
pieces. Repeat the process until you
reach the oppostte end of the room,
attaching any recessed light fixllucs or
air ducts in the panels as you work . •
have to have a
place to
assemble it."
Dave made
the sides of the
table from
Cherry-veneer
plywood with
maple trim
attached using
chrome screws
and trim rings.
Dave Kn'II.!
The rounded
corners, sh()wn in the inset below,
were formed tram six layers of 1ft'
bendable plywood preHed together
around a 4"-diarneter PVC pipe in a
shop-built jig. He then covered the
glue-ups with cherry veneer to match
the plywood sides. In addition to
slipporting the game board, the table
surrounds it with a 6' trough to catch
any stray weights during play and the
surplus powdered wax that lubricates
the playing surface.
Five pairs of walnut legs each have
levelers recessed into them to stabilize
the table. His next shuffleboard
table-still in the planning stage-will
rest on a base of storage cabineu.
Sources
Profll~ sanding blocks. Setoffive COl"\CaYesarodinq
grips no. 68Zf!2.1)2, $4.95, olll~ Valley Tools at
800-871-8158; "'£'VaHey.com.
L.ser level. Projeded CrouFil(' Auto LewlLaser
no. BOl3' OS, $80, call 8M & De<ker at 800-544-6986;
bladandOecker.com.
Eye lag 5I;:r_5. BuyJ( /I(lmt'cemersOf no. KlR2MN
from Hardware World, $6.93 for , 00: hardwareylOr"ld.{om.
Eye lag ICrtW driver bit. Avail~bko~t homeamte....
or no. GJXKHS from Hardwarl' World, $438.
WOOD magazine Novemb<.>r 2007
 ••• • •
•

. .. ~

You won't want to miss this event!

• Stock up on Supplies • Learn New Techniques
• Talk to Factory Reps • 3 DAYS ONLY
• Over 21 hours of free demonstrations each weekend
TOPICS INCLUDE: Tablesaw • Bandsaw • Jointer/Planer
Dust Management . Routers ' Dovetails . Finishing
• Skill Building Seminars taught by an instructor from the
world-renowned Marc Adams School of Woodworking
• Learn the art of finishing from WOOD Magazine
Contributing Craftsman Jim Heavey

PROUD SPONSORS:

DELTA I PORTER :+; CABLE.

The
Consumer
Woodworking
Expo

~GCht,eeWWW.ptrMUN.c:om
Woodworldng Supply lnc.""""
Home/Shop
Storage Cart
Roll into place an extra worksurface and plenty of handy
storage below with this easy-to-build mobile cabinet.
Home office, kitchen, and workshop are just a few places
you'll appredate this hard-working helper.
How to make a shop version of the cart
Need a mobile storage unit tor your shop
to keep tools and supplies organized and
easy to move about? Design Editor Jeff
Mertz built the one shown at left by
making a few simple changes to the
home cart:
• Substitute less-expensive birch plywood
(or other void-free plywood of your
choice) for the oak plywood and poplar
instead of oak for the edging on the top.
• Omit the veneer edging on the exposed
plywood edges.
42
PRO ECT HIGHLIGHTS
• Overall dimensions: 31" wide x 17W
deep x approximately 31 ' high.
• Bis(uit-and-5crew joinery make the cart
super-simple to assemble.
• Except for the top, which has solid-
wood edging. all other e)(posed
plywood edges are banded with
easy-to-apply iron-on veneer edging.
For help with this process, go to
woodmagazine.com/video~.
• You'll find all of the items needed to
build the cart (hardware, Wand 1;'4'
plywood, and W poplar and oak) at
your local home center.
Skill Builder
• Learn a handy trick for laying out
bi~cuit-slot locatiom and accurately
plunging sloh into the face of a part.
See a Slide Show of this
project coming together at:
woodmagazine,com/slides
Start with the case
1 Cut the sides (A) and panels (8) to
the sizes listl'd [Materials list, page
46J. Cut the divider (C) and shelf (0) to
the sizes listed except W longer to enable
trimming later for a precise fit in the
assembled case.
2 From li· -wide iron-on veneer edging
(available at your local home center),
cut strips I " longer than the lengths of
the sides (A), pands (8), divider (C), and
shelf (0) for the front edges. Using a
household iron at the "cotton" setting,
apply the veneer to the edge5 of the parts
with an equal overhang on the faces and
ends. Move the iron slowly enough to
melt the adhesive but not burn the
veneer. (You'll feel a slight "give" when
the adhesive melts.) Before the adhesive
sets, press the edging firmly Into place
• Size the door (which does not get
veneer edging) by measuring the
opening and subtracting }i" from the
width ilnd height to allow Y\6" clearance
al! around.
• For the large- and small-drawer faces
(l , M), eliminate the curved cul-outs
and mount 4" wire pull~ instead (Six
needed, including the door).
• When finishing the cart, skip the
stain and apply three coats of a clear
finish only.
WOOD IT) .. ga~lne NOVl!mtx-r Z007
 15 ~1'
D PARTSVIEW

?
- - Front
W

.-
.20~UOl
t::
,
~ , _ _ ,_ _
120 biteuit SlOta

--
5
~L
,.. ~".
l-" ~~ 'j Drawer slide
1'h'
- "I
--- - -'
•

r-
0
16%" on opposite lace
.":;;:=~::::~:::::::::J
7/~'

loca~ 01 psrt@ -1+--

.. holes deep in
'/~'

,I ''''
q,j,'
o right (door-side) face only 0 1~1"
,
",----------~
'" [lr-
11'h"

'.
C-
o Vo' holes ¥3" 08ep •
26W' • in right side@only 0
r-'Front ©
DIVIDER
~
. j 6'

.
(Right lace shown)
• • r-------
-..--- - ~ ~
o

•
®
SIDE
~
'-' 4, -.
1Aight side inside face shewn) ~-
, t==::..'~==1 13V4
V.' rabbel 6."
J
,;W deep
1t201~Uil slot divider (C), where dimensioned
.,' L -~ - --- [Drawings 1 and 2]. Note that

-'-'1' ,k _-"·/"1
13'/, " 7:Y.' :
although the parts are not the
same Width, the locations of the
slots aTe IdentIcal from theiT (ront
Note; Left side@lsa mirror image. edges. FOT a quick and easy way
to accurately mark the centerl ioes,
using a 1"-long wood roller. (A wallpaper and plunge the face slots into the centers
seam roller works great.) Now trim the of the sides and center and bottom pan-
edging flush with the faces and ends of els, see the Shop Tip, helow. Plunge the
the palts [PhotoAj. Set the shelf aside. slots into ali of the parts except the

l Vsing a dado blade in your tablesaw divider. You'll plunge its slots after you
or a rabbeting bit in your router, cut the part to exact length.
machine a Vt" rabbd h' deep aiong the Dry-assemble (no glue) and damp
MakIng several light pllsses with II sharp
utility knife, trim the veneer edging flush
back edge of ('ach side (A) on the inside S
together the sides (A) and paMJs (B)
face IDrawing 11 to receive the plywood with #20 biscuits. Measure the diagonals
with the faces and ends of the parts.

divider (C). Crosscut the divider 10 your

back (E) IDrawing2j, of the case to ensure square. Then mea- measurement. Now plunge the biscuit

4 Draw ccnterlilles for the #20 biscuit sure between the bottom and center
slots on the sides (A), panels (B), and panels (B) for the exact length of the
slots into each end of the divider. Dhas-
semble the case.

SHOP TIP
A simple aid makes biscuit layout pure gravy
When laying out biscuit·slot centerlines, line$ for the three biscuit-slot locations, face for mounting the center panel. To
you need to mark them preci.~ely to where dimensioned for the bottom plunge the face slots in the side for the
ensure correct alignment of the parts, panel, across a long edge. center panel, align and clamp the guide
Rather than measuring for each slot, you To put the guide to use, align the front to the side, as shown below. You also can
can save time-and avoid errors-by end with the front edge of each part (the use the guide as a spacer when plunging
making a layout guide (or storyboard). parts are not all the same width), and the slo1$ in the faces of the center and
And, if you'll need to plunge slots into transfer the biscuit-slot centerlines at bottom panels for the divider (C), but
the faces of the parh, kill two birds with each end, as shown below. After marking you'll need to position the guide W' from
one stone by sizing the guide for use as a the top end of each side, simply flip the the centerlines and place the assembly
spacer when plunging these slots. guide over to draw the centerlines on the on spacers for clamping.
For ellample, to make a layout
guide/spacer for plunging the face
slots into the sides (A) for the center
panel (S), cut a 5¥.x 15W piec('
from W scrap. The 5¥." width is the
difference between the 6\oi"
dimension from the top of the side
to the biscuit·slot centerlines
[Drawing 11 and the W offset from
your biscuit-joiner base to the
center of the cutter. The 15Y:!'
length is the width of the panel
[Drawing 21. Identify one end of the
guide '·front." Then draw center-
6 Mark centerpoints for h"
holes ¥e" deep for shelf sup~
ports on the inside face of the
right side (Al and the right (door-
side) face of the divider (C) [Draw-
ing 11. Notc that the dimensions
from the bottom edges of the side
and divider to the bottom holes
are different, and the holes along
the back edge of the right side arc
lW from the rabbet-not the
edge. Drill the holes, using a fence
with a stopblock on your drill
press to ensure alignment and
consistent spacing of the holes,
and a brad-point bit wrapped
with a piece of masking tape for a
visual depth stop. Identify the
bottom edge of the divider to
Glue, biscuit, and clamp together the right side (AI, Add th e top panel (8) and left side (A) to
ensure correct orientation during bottom and center panels (B), and divider (el. Check complete the (lise, USing a spacer to hold the
case as,'i-emhly. the assembly for square. top panel in place while Instatlrng the side.

7 sand the case parts to 180

grit. Then gluc, biscuit, and
Measure the width of the opening around), and cut the door to size. Apply
clamp together the right side (A), bot-
tom and center panels (B), and divider
(C) [Photo 8J. Ensure correct orientation
8 between the divider (C) and right the edging. Sand the door smooth.
side CAl. Then trim the length of the
of the divider with the side that has shelf (D) tu your measurement Jess ~ •. 2
1'0 mount the door (F), position two
2~" wrap-around hinges on the
holes for the shelf supports facing the Cut the back (E) to size to fit between door [Orillwing 21. Drill pilot holes, and
right side, and the bottom edge against the rabbeted edges of the sides CAl. Sand fasten the hinges using the screws sup-
the bottom panel. To make it easy to the back smooth, and set it aside. plled with the hinges. Place the case on
complete the case as~mbly, cut a 5x6" its right side. Then, to easily poSition the
piece from :Y." scrap for a spacer. USing Let's add the door
the spacer and a clamp to hold the top
panel in position, glue, biscuit, and
1 door in the openlng, place lh6"-tall spac-
Determine the exact size for the ers under the door and a Yl.6"-thlck spacer
door (F) by measuring the opening (to set the reveal) hetween an end of the
clamp the panel and left side In place to [Photo 01 . Subtract W from each mea- door and the bottom panel (8) [Photo
complete the case [Photo Cj. surement (to allow a Yl.6" reveal all E). With the hinge barrels tight against
the front edge of the right side (A),

'(l -- - "7' S,S>'..:.

r ~ : ~~
@~- ­ screw-mount the hinges to the side.

---17-;-/'~31 "--- Em STRIKE PLATE DETAil

-., Milered ~
-- ~8 x 'Y." F.H . ~ Strike plate
II EXPLODED VIEW ends
.! wood screw
- '" "--
eneer
ad ing
®
MagnetiC
2V.· wrap·around hinge
Veneer edgillQ ® -\;, .....
catch / t r l k e plate

. . YWirePUIl

19'h"
H~"""'"
-4!t
G Gil
v.·1
1.['3""-..1

, ,

44 WOOD m.g.zlne Novem~r 2007

 ©
®

~~;;;;';;;;;;;;;;;;;:;h. door IFlin the case

opening using 1':I,.' _tilll and 'I,.'-thick
veneer edging_ spacers. Mount the hinges to the side (A).

3 Remove the door and hinges. Layout

tlnd drill hoie5 for ~tew.mountjng a
4" wire pull to the door [Drawing 2]. Set
tht' door and hinges aside.
Now make the drawers
1 Cut the drawer sides (G) and large-
and small-drawer fronts/backs (H,
I), bottoms U, K), and faces (L, M) to the
sizes listed.
2 USing a dado blade In your tablesaw,
cut the dadoes and rabbets into
the large drawer and four small drawers,
checking each for ~quare.
parts G, H, and I to form the lock-rabbet
joint IDrawing 31 . Then cut the groove
along the bottom edges of these parts to
4 Separate the large and small mem-
bers of five pairs of 14' drawer slide-s.
USi ng a squarc, draw centerlines along
receive the large- and small-drawer bot- the length of the drawer sides (G). Cen-
toms 0, K). For help with the drawer
a~cmbly and installation, see page 48.
ter a small slide member on each
centerline. Mark the mounting holes.
3 sand all of the parts smooth. Then,
glue, assemble, and clamp together
Now drill pilot holes, ant1 drive the sup-
plied screws.

D ORAWERS
,t." dadoes 1/, ' deep v.' Irom ends
5 TO mount the large slide members in
the case, draw centerlines on the
sides (A) for t he large drawer where
dimensioned \ DrawIng 11, using a square.
Then draw centerllnes on the left
(drawer-side) face of the divider (C) and
the imide face of the left side (same loca-
tions as for the diVider) for the small
drawers, where dimensioned. Center the
slides on the lines, ~' from the front
edges of the sides and divider, and
mount in place. (We cut spacers from Y4"

_ ...."
. 13W
A . 27·Y. Drawer-face
hardboard to the needed widths to eas-
ily position the slides for mounting.)
cente rline Now slide in the drawers.
14' drawer ~ i de, 'i.'
'I.' rabbet ~
centered V.' grooves V. ' deep
If." (rom bottom edge
deep
6 Make two caples of the drawer-pull
fu ll-size pattern from the WOOD
Patterns. insert. Mark a centerlinc across
LARGE ORAWER
the width of the large-drawer face (L)
and one small-drawer face (M). Spray-
adhere a pattern to each face, aligning
the pattern and marked centerline.'>.
Bandsaw and sand to the pattern line.
Then, using the small-drawer face as a
template, mark the remaining faces.
Band~w and sand them to shape.
APPIY a few pieces of double-faced
7 tape to the back of the large- and
small-drawer faces (L, M). Center the
faces in the openings, and press them
tightly against the drawer fronts. Remove
the drawers. Then drill countersunk
'/.' grooves V,' deep mounting holes through th(> fronts and
Vo' from bottom edge into the faces IDrawing 31, and drive the
SMALL DRAWER
screws. Remove the fronts and tape.

woodm.,g.adrHI.c:om 45
Reattach the fronts. Remove the slides door (F) [Drawings 2 and 2aj
from the drawers and case. with the supplied screw,
Close the door. Keeping the
Top It off, and finish up door flush with the front of

1 Cut the plywood top (N) to size. the case, reach in from the
Then, from ~" stock 36" long, rip hal.:k and position the mag-
three pieces that match the thickness of netic catch, and mark the
the top to form the front/back and side mounting holes on the cen-
edging (0, Pl. You'll usc twoofthe pieces ter panel (B). Then screw-
for the front/back. Crosscut the remain- mount the catch.
i

2
Piece in half for the sides.
Miter-cut one end of each edging 7
FinallY, position the
back (E) onto the case.
piece. Next, pOSition a long and Drill the mounting holes
~hort piece against an edge and cnd of through the back and into
the top (N), with the mitered ends tight the case, and drive the
together. Mark the ends of the pieces for screws [Drawing 21. Now
miter-cuttIng to the exact lengths [Photo declutter your desk or shop,
FJ, transferring the marks on the heels and load up the cart. •
onto the top faces. Trim the pieces. Then
Writt~n by Owen Duvall
glue and clamp them to the top. Now fit PlOie(t de:\ign: Jeff M.tb Tape pieces for the front (or back) and side edging (0.
and mark each of the remaining edging Illustrations: ROlllu,..,e LeMoine ; P) to the top (N). Mark Iheedglng for th@h@@lsofthe
pieces. Miter-cut and mount them in Lorna Johnson mitered ends.
the same way.

3 Sand the top

(N/O/P) smooth.
Then glue and damp
Cutting Diagram A II.. 15¥~" 26'/1" 0' ,
the top to the case, "'''' ,
centering the top
front-to-back and
B
C· divider
""", 'I."
'I."
15V,
151;,"
'"
19'/0"
OP
DO'
side-to-side. D'

4 Sand to 180 grit "'''' 'I" 14'12" 13W 0'

any areas that

need it, and remove
E
F doo~ """ V." 28'1" 26'/1"
'I"
13Yt 19'12" 0'
"
Draw~n
the dust. Apply a stain
G "", 'fl"
" 14' e
, ",
and finish. We applied
Varathane no. 218 H
!i!rge--draweJ '1>" 3' 26V..
f~<iOOd<
Traditional Pecan
Stain followed by small-drawE'r
frOllt'i/backs
V, 3' 12'1t" , •
three coats of Min wax :Yo )( 48)( 96" Oak plywood
PolycrylicWater-l\ased large-drawer 'I. H'h" 26Y," Be
bottom
Clear Satin Protective

" •
small-<lrawer 'I. H'fl" 12'1t"
Finish, sanding to 220 CD ® K bon",,,,
grit between coats.

5 Place the cart

with the bottom
®
M small-draW1!r
,~'"
'!." 4'1. HYI" 0 "
up. PositIon 21¥!~'
heavy-duty, twin-
®
wheel locking casters
[Drawing 2] on the ® ® 0" front/back
bottom, with the edging
mounting plates W ,
V~ x 48 x 96 Birch plywood
from the case edges. •PNts il1iti ~Hy CUI oversi~e. 51!!! the innructklns.
Mark and drill the tElW<t door width . oo Itrlgth iIIt dettrmined by measurtmen\
mounting holes. Then ¥~ x 7V~ x 96" Poplar (5.3 bd. ft.) of the OPl'l1in9 during ;r.;semb~ to .lIow Io! the lhicknes~ 0( the
ve!1te edgil'lg.
secure the casters with M aterials key: OP-oakplywood, BP-birch plywood,
the supplied screws.
1'<DfFD8 P-popIJr,O-oak.

6 Remount the ¥~ x 71/. )( 60' Poplar (3.3 bd. It.)

hInges, door, 'Plane or resaw 10 the thiCKness listed In the Materials List.
and wire pull. Slide in
Stl ppUas: 1/."_wide iron·on veneer edging (approri-
mately 21,); '20bi'iCuill; l'·kmg wood roller;2V4wrap·
.....c------,
around hifl9~ 11 pr.);4"wire Plll~ 14· dla_rslld~$15 prs.t,
spray adh~ve; double-faced 1ape; fS)<I/~' and '8><1"
the drawers. Mount flathead wood S(rews; 211/,," heavy--duty, tlVln-wheel
the strike plate for the Iodir.g c.ast~s (-4); magnetic catch; W shelf ~uppom \4).
magnetic catch on Bhlde li nd bits: Dado-b~~!.tt (or 11."rabbt>llng
the back face of the rouler DIt), '1.' brad-point bit.

46 WOOD magAl.inll Nov~mber 2007

 prices on woo(two;
tools and accessories
• live demonstrations: furniture making,
_HOWl
joinery, turning, and much more! Fndoy 3pm-90m
SM-.J'oa)' 10arn "pm
• Hands-on workshops
• Comprehensive seminars with Ad.Ia.... 1.
Sundr leGIT' lp'Tl

Get dlSC"Vltej
woodworking experts
For complete: details about each show, and to order discounted tickets, call toll-tree 866-749-4988, or ¥tsit:

www.woodworksevents.com
At each show, make sure to stop by WOOD tv\agozine's
SawDust Cafe' .
• iVleet VIIOOdwoO<ing book outhors
SawDust
Proud _
IN
of .... - . . c.fC
• Chat with fellow woodworkers
• Enter your projects in daily woodworking competitions
C'1fe
Visit; www.woocInNttn-• .COM • Leam about woodvvoodng clubs ond schools in your area
 imiting yourself to furniture proj· Start with design decisions
L ects without drawers Is like trying
to drive without using the steering
wh~l: Either way. you won't g~t far. But
Two basic drawer styles will fit most
project n~eds. Build imet drawers when
you want the drawer front flush with
once you master how to measure, build, the cabinet frame. as we did with thl:!
and mount these basic drawers, you're storage cart on paXe 42. Or build partial-
on the road to a world of furniture and or full-overlay dr:rlNers to conceal the
Watch FREE short videos storage projects. frame with the drawer fronts. We'll
on making drawers and focus on making inset drawers [Drawing
mounting drawer slides at 11. the ones we use most often.
woodmagazlne.com/vldeos. • Mounting. Choose a drawer slide or
v." dadoes V. deep \14' In from ends other mounting method compalible
with inset drawers. Of the dozens of
DORAWER BOX PAR1~ options out there, the ones we use for
EXPLODED V IEW most WOOv. magazine projects are
Y4' rabbet Vo" deep full-extension slides, for their smooth
<:. AC
DRAWER BLOCK-RABBEl JOINl
I
BOX FRONT
V Yo' dado v." deep
V4' from iroot end

,LJ. --l"" r

_
hv:-
Vo' I-I
yI
DRAWER V4" rabbet Vo" deep
FRONT
WOOD magAJln e N~mbef 2007
48
 SHOP TIP
For grooves that fit, check drawer-bottom stock
Not all sheet goods sold as W stock
measure a true y." thick. If you don't
discover that until alter you cut the
drawe r bottom grooves, t he rattle
coming from your finished drawers
will se rve as a constant reminder. For
example, the lauan p lywood below leff
measures close to lJ/6'", thin enough
operation and easy access to drawer con-
tents. See ~Three Mounts that Count"
on page 51 for two other popular options:
European-style slides and loose drawers
that ride on low-friction tape.
• Materials. Economize by making
drawer boxes out of less-t!xpensive
materials than the rest of your project.
We like poplar for its strength, light
weight, and low price. For drawer bot-
IJORAWER MEASUREMENTS
~------------~
~N-~------
c length of your rip fence from 1,4" stock.
(8
(D)
---®---------
J
Use this front view of a cabinet section to help calculate drawer-patt ~Izes to fit your
project:
• Drawer-box width: «:!equals ® minus 1". (This assumes '11" drawer-slide clearances
@oneachside.Checkyourdrawerslide instructions for any variations.)
• For the drawer fronh, the len9th ~ equals ® minus '1." Ifor two 1/," reveals). The
wldth ®equal s@minus',4".
• We show the drawer-box helght ®wlth the same clearances as the width, but you
can vary th is to suit your preferences.
woodmagadn ... c:om
to fit loosely_ Even today's hardboard
sheets measure too thin for a tight fit.
The Baltic birch plywood, below righf,
comes closer to a true VI", even though
it's typically manufactured in metric
dimensions (\4" equals 6.35mm). For
another source of V."-thick d rawer-
bottom stock, try MOF-core plywood.
toms, we prefer Baltic birch plywood.
It's strong, doesn't expand like solid
wood, and measures a consistent LA"
thick. (See the Shop Tip above.)
. Joinery. Dovetails produce sturdy,
attractive joints, but they're time-
consuming. Lock-rabbet jOints (Drawing
2] also provide plenty of mechanical and
glue strength and can be cut qUickly on
a tablf'saw without special jigs.
Size the drawer
to fit the hole
Now, you're ready to calculate the
drawer-box dimensions using the for-
mulas in Drawing 3. Begin by measuring
th~ cabinet opening width (A) and
height (B). Full-extension slides typi-
cally rl'quire liz' clearance on each side,
so calculate the box width (C) by sub-
tracting 1" from dimension (A). The box
height (D) can vary to suit your needs.
For an easy way to remember how
long to cut your box parts to allow for
the lock-rabbet jOints, Just subtract l l,i"
from (A) and from the hox length. To
calculate sizes for the drawer front, sub-
tract \Ie" to1"" from dimension (A) and
(B) when using full-extension slides, or
1,4" when using European-style slides.
Cut the drawer-box parts
Consistent cuts yield tight-fitting. square
drawers, so use stops instead of a mea-
suring tape when cutting drawer parts
to length [Photo A]. For a project with
multiple drawers, cut all box fronts,
backs, and side pieces in groups. AI~,
cut extra parts to test your setups to
make the lock-rabbet Joints.
To dado the box sides for the Ioci:-
rabbet joint, first cut a 3" -wide spacer the
Install a l,4" dado blade, set the rip fence
1,4" from the blade, and lock the blade 1,4"
high [Drawing 4]. To test the fence
II DRAWER SIDE DADO SETUP
FOR LOCK-RABBET JOINTS
Cut v.' dadoes \14' deep =
into both ends ollhe
drawer-box sides.
v.'
V.. - \ t--
'-~
I (,.co ~" d'do L
clearance
insert biaCle
 OORAWER FRONT AND BACK DADO position and blade height, cut dadoes
SETUP FOR LOCK-RABBET JOINTS into two scraps (Photo B], and che'k that
they join snugly end-ta-end. Once you
CUI a v.' rabbet
achieve a tight fit, dado both ends of
%' deep into both
ends of the each drawer side [Photo Cl.
drawer-box fronl To rabbet the box fronts and backs,

L
and back.
attach the 1.4' shim to the fence using
double-face tape [Drawing 5], and then
v.' rabbet the end of a scrap (Photo DI to test
the fit with the dadoes cut in the previ-
ous step. Next, cut a rabbet on both ends
of each drawer front and back. Fine-tune
the fit using a block with 120-grit sand-
paper on one fan' [Photo El. The jOint

50 WOOD mAgazlrw I'>I<:wemhef 2007


should fit together with moderate hand
prt'ssurc [Photo F).
To set up your tablesaw to cut the
drawcr-tx)ttom grooves, simply remove
the W shim without moving the fence.
Then, cut grooves into the inside faces
of all four pieces of each box [Photo GJ .
Check the alignment of the box front,
back, and sides using a piece of drawer-
bottom scrap [Photo HI. Dry-assemble
the box, and measure tht' Inside length
and width. Add ¥:t~" to each of those
dimensions, and cut the drawer bottoms
to that size.
To assemble the drawers, apply glue
to both dadoes in a side piece [Photo I) .
To keep plywood drawer bottoms from
rattling, add a drop of glue at the center
of each piece's drawer-hattom groove.
In<;ert the front and hack pieces into the
dadoes on a side piece, add the drawer
bottom and then the other side piece
[Photo J), and clampall four joints. Mea-
sure both diagonals (Photo KJ to verify
that the boxes are square.
Install the drawers
To mount full-extension drawer slides,
first measure and mark the cabinet or
case with centerlines where each drawer
slide will be mounted [Photo U. Then,
mark height centerHnes on both sides of
each drawer.
Next, remove the drawer-mounted
part of the slide from the slide assembly
that will mount on the case. The front
of the case-mounted slide part rests !oil"
from the front edge of the case-3,4' for
the drawer front pius a lA" margin to
k~p the drawer slide from bottoming
out as It closes. The box-mounted sllde
paTt mounts I...• from the front end of
the box side.
Both the drawer-slide parts that attach
to the cabinet and the part that attaches
to the drawer [Photo Ml use slotted holes
to allow adlustments. Mark the loca-
tions of the mounting screws within
these holes, drill 3/32" pilot holes (for 4'16
pan head screws) into the hardwood
piecc5, and mount the 51ide parts onto
.. oodm. g .... lne.com
[i!J
..,
front
the drawers and the carcase [Photo NI , Attach the drawer fronts
with t he screws centered in rhe slotted Before attaching drawer fronts to the
holes. Now, insert the drawers, and boxes, cut about a dozen 1><3" spacers
check that the slides operate smoothly. from 1/16"_thick strips for full~xtenslon
Three drawer mounts that count
Low-frlt:tlon tape
Cost: $6.29-$22 per 10' roll, depending
on material and thickness
load capacity: As much as the drawer
can hold.
Sizes: Widths range from 1h"-3".
Variations : Some tape uses ultra-high
molecula r weight (UHMW) material
instead of nylon.
Comments : Apply where the edges of
the drawer side5 ride on the carcase. Use
thi s where you want a traditional drawer
style without slides or mounts.
European-st)'le slides
Cost: $2.1S-$6.40 per pair for standard
slides; $45-$60 for heavy-duty versions.
Load capacity: 55-100 Ibs. Heavy-duty
versions hold up to 220 Ibs.
Sizes: 12"-26" long
Variations: White, brown, or almond slide~
come 10"-24" long in bottom/side-mount
(shown) or side·mount versions.
Comments: An economical alternative to
full- extension slides, they also reqUire the
sa me Y2" side clearances. These slides allow
more play in the drawer movement than
fu ll -extension slides, so use 'I.' revea \~.
Full-extension slides
Cost: S7-S22.S0 per pair for slides up to
lOO-lb capacity; up to S330 per pair for
heavy-duty, SOO-Ib-capacity slides.
Load capacity: Most support 100 Ibs.
Sizes: 12"-28" long in the l00-lb capacity
Variations: Over-travel slides support the
drawer outside t he cabinet. Self-dosing
slides pun the drawer fu lly closed. Mini slides
fi t a V.' side clearance for small projects.
Comment s: Unlike the E.uropean-style
slides, these don't !'l ave a right- or left-hand
side. They allow less movement, permitting
'h," reveals around inset drawers.
 drawer slides or I/e"_thlck strips for Euro-
pean-style slides. Attach double-faced
tape to the box to temporarily mount
the drawer front, and use spacers to leave
a consistent gap around the drawer
front. With the spacers Inserted a~
shown [Photo 0 ], press the drawer front
against the box, push the drawer out
from the back, and reinforce the tape
with a clamp. Then remove the drawer
with the clamp still attached, and insert
two mounting screws from inside the
box, as shown on page 48. Repeat for the
remaining drawer fronts.
If you want a knob or pull on the
drawer fro nt, remove the mounting
screws, and detach the front from the
box. Mark where you want lhe hardware,
then drill the mounting-screw holes.
Counterbore the holes into the back side
of the d rawer front so the screws ~it flush
Troubleshoot misaligned drawers
When a drawer front does this ...
0'......... .,.
allequalbetw ••n
. . top IIndboUom•
.. . here's where to fix the problem.
To fix drawers with unequal reveal s on the
top or bottom, loosen the screws attaching
the slide to the drawer box and raise or
lower the slide illS needed.
52
[Photo Pl . Usc the holes to tempora rily
screw the drawer front to the box [Photo
OJ, and reinsert the two mounting
screws to attach the drawer front onto
the box .
Dnct' you've finish ed your project
[P hgtg RJ, you may need to finc-tune the
slide adjustments, See uTroubleshoot
Misaligned Drawers" below for tips on
getting d rawers flush and even . •
Sources
low·frlctlon drawer tape: Nylon t.lpe:no. 70615,
S6.29lor a Y,' xlO' roll caW RockIer Woodworking and
Hallfware at 800-279-4441; roclller.(om. Ultr~·high
molKularweight tape no, l5U04.0I, SI0.30 for a
l·xIS' roll, call Lee Valley Tools at 800·871·8158;
leevalley.com.
Dr_ _ slides: Full-e~temjonand European--style
sire in " variety of sizes and styles <We available from
RcdI«WoodworIdng and Hardw ....e: Ltfo Valley ToolS;
Grlzzly Industrial. 8O(j·523-<4m, or grinty.(om; and
woodailft, 800·225·1153, orwoodmft.com.
TM . . . . fnNI'I~slt
"udl whtr tIM c.w.... C.M.
Slotted
hole for
adju~tm ents
When a (orner of the drawe r front doesn't
rut flu sh with the case, remove th e drawer
box and shift the case-mounted slide
asse mbl y for ward or backward,
Better Homes and Gardens®

PATTERNS

November 2007 780

Issue 180

Dear Reader: As a service to you, we've included full-size patterns

on this insert for irregular shaped and intricate project parts. You can
machine all other project parts using the Materials List and the draw-
draw­
ings accompanying the project you're building.
Turned Screwdriver,
Cl 2007. All rights reserved
Copyright Meredith Corporation, 2007. reserved.. Printed in the U.S.A. Meredith
Corp., the publisher of WOOD Patternsl!.
Patterns<!ll, allows the purchaser of this pattern insert to Page 72
photocopy these patterns solely for personal use. Any other reproduction of these patterns
is strictly prohibited.
prohibited . - --- - - - - -- - --- -- - - - - --- -- - -- - -- - ----- --- ,,

Ferrule
- - - - - --I,
,,

I
1:V1S" diam.

11/a" diam.
11/s"

SCREWDRIVER

HANDLE

Mitered end :
FULL-SIZE

on inside face ~

PATTERN

1¥8" diam.
1¥a"

7/16"
7/1S" diam.

53
54

Scrollsawn Ornaments,

Page 76

55
 Storage Cart, Page 42

Align with
Align with drawer-face
top edge. centerline.
centerline.

©o@
©,@
DRAWER PULL

FULL-SIZE PATTERN

Ikebana Vase, Page 68

,

: Mitered end
: on inside face

BASE SIDE FULL-SIZE PATTERN

i/

: Mitered end @ Mitered end

: on inside face
BASE END FULL-SIZE PATTERN on inside face :
V
, ------------------------- ~
,
1114" :
( ,,
,,
~~--~)---- - -- - - ---------------- -- - ---- - ~--~-
,
~~--~ - --- - -- -- ---------------- -- ---- -- ~--~

56
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 Three-window
Photo
-~.
PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS
• Overall dimensions: 17W wide )(
214" deep )( 8Y.' high.
• Displays up to she: photos.
• Shown here in clear-finished cherry.
Skill Builder
a Learn how to.saVE' time by planing one
piece of lumber large enough to
accommodate all the parts of equal
thickness. Also, grouping small parts
on a large blank allows you to safely
cut them to size.
Make the parts
1 From a -l4x-l4x30' blank, cut the end
pmts (A) to length IMaterlals List,
58
"""'--"'" .
Here's a great last-minute gift you can assemble from hardwood
odds and ends. The two-sided design lets you double
the number of photos displayed by placing
them back-to-back between the panes.
page 601. Rip the remaining blank to
-l4x~' and cut the middle posts (lJ) to
length. Then attach an extension to
your tablcsaw miter gauge, and a stop-
block to th e extension [Drawing 1J. Now
cut l1I" dadoes W deep Into the fron t a nd
back faces of the posts [Df"awin9 2J.
PlaCC two photos between I wo pieces
2 of~· clear acrylic. and adjust a dado
blade to c ut a groove to fit this thiCk·
ness. Then cut groows Into the Inside
edge of each end post (A) and hoth edges
of the middle posts (B) (Drawing 21. Fin· from vertiCIl I .
ish-~nd the posts. i th e t ap (D) ildhered to a l:arrier board
3 For the bars (C) and cap (D), cut a
~ x 2JAx16W hlank. Then, with a
a nd the tablesaw blade t ilted 27· fro m
vertlul, t ut the edge bevels.
WOOD mAgulrHI November 2007
Pla(e~~~~~~~~~~!~
the post ends, and
Glue Ihe bars (e) in place, the screws.
to the plate I. centered. applying I
sure to the bars (e) close 10 the posts

zero-clearance insert in your tahle.'i3W,
rip four bars from the t.>dge of the blank.
Finish-sand the bars.
4 Rip the cap (DJ to finished width
from the remaining :Ji"-thlck blank.
Layout the end bevels LDrawing 301 ), and
disc-sand them to shape. Then cut a
}'.xlxZO· carrier board from S(.Tap, and
adhere the cap to it, flu sh at the edges,
with double-faced tape. Cut the edge
beveh [Photo A]. Finish-sand the cap.
5 For the plates (E) and base (F), cut a
Ytx4lhxl7" blank. Then rip the two
plales to width, and rip and crosscut the
base to size. Adhere the plates face-to-
face with double-faced tape, keeping the
ends and edges flush. Layout the he"
hole centers [Drawing 3], and drl\!
holes on the hottom face of the bottom
plate for /;4 flathead screws. Finish-sand
the plates and hase.
Cut a ~x2\4){6 ' blank for the feet
6 (G). Then chuck a chamfer bit Into
your table-mounted router, and chamfer
the top edges. Now cut a foot to length
from each ~nd of the blank jDrawing 3 1.
Finish-sand the feet.
Assemble the frame
1 Cut three 41,ix41,i' spacers from
scrap. Then glue the bars (C) Into
the end-post (A) and middle-post (B)
dadoes [Photo BJ.
2 eut two W -(hick spacers, and fasten
t he bottom plate (E) to the posts (A,
B) [PhotoCJ.
around, with double-faced tape. Stand
the assembly upright on your drill-press
table, and using the hob In the top
plate as guides, drill W holes W deep
into the posts (A, B). Remove the top
plate and the tape. Glu~ and clamp the
cap (D), I."entered. to the top plate (1).
Cut four ¥.I·.long pieces of~' dowel,
4 and glue them into the holes in the
tops of the posts (A, B). Drill a Whole
Into a piece of W -thick scrap and place it
over each dowel. If any dowel protrudes,
sand it flush.
5 G1ue and clamp the feet (G) to the
base (F) [Drawing 3]. Then glue and
damp this assembly to the frame assem·
bly (A/B/C/D/E) [Photo 0].

Adhere the top plate (E) to the P()~t:;

through both plates on your drill press.
Separate the plates, and countersink the 3 (A, B), centered all ·Size grooves to accept two pieces of
•v..' groove Vi' deep
acrylic and two photos .

.CUTTING THE POST DADOES

'40' dadoes y.." deep)
inside face. centered ' 1/.." grooves
~~~ centered
Ii '18. deep,
Yo"
ElpOSTS 'lHiH-"I- Vi' dadoes
V..' deep
V,"

Outside
lace

®
&Y..'

END POST
MIDDLE POST
Slopblock

'It' dadoes
Y' deep
'II" dadoes \1.0" deep

woodmllgllll_.c;om
 Apply finish, add photos
1 Examine all the parts, and finish-
sand where needed. Ease any sharp
edges with a sandinghkx.:k. Apply a clear
finish. (We applied three coats of satin
lacquer from a spray can.)
USing your fin~st~tooth tablesaw
2 blade and a zew-c1earance insert,
cut six J,ix4~x6+t ' clear acrylic panes.
Sand away the saw marks from the top
and bottom edges. Then Install the
panes and photos [Photos E and Fl . •
Written by Jan ho( with K_in Bo~l e
,; Project desi9n; Jeff M.. ,u
Place two photos
two VI" 3cryU, panes. Then slide the entire
sandwi<;h into the post l A, B) grooves.
the lop (
posts (A, B)
,h.
top p late [E).
IIlu'tration" Roxlnne LeMoine; lorn. Johnson

ID eAPBEVElS

~
i~
I 1'--1
EDGE BEVELS

-_c END BEVELS

__ 41/,,"-
B

'" B

!I , ~-
C-' ,
Materials List
Part
FI"II.HW SIl.(
T W L Mati Qtr
A' end postS W ¥." 1>'1." C ,
]/. If." 6'1."
" middle posts C 2
C' bm 11." II ." 16Vl" • C
c
D' II." 16Yl"
'"
1"
,,. , ,
,....
E' plates 'I." P;,"
F' V. 1" 16'11" C
G' .... VI" 1'14" 1 1(1", C
'P~m initially CUI oVHsile. see the instructiom,
No chamfer on
';i," chamfer
#4 x :v." F. this lace
wood screw Material key: (-cherry.
Supplies: Doubl~fa<ed tape, _4,.'1.
flathead wood
,h,m'" 00 ,"" ,,,. .screws (4), V,' cIowel. V." CleM ~crylk.

~
" w~o

W'h,m',!< -- -
2W ___
G.
~1 '" '> ~
Cutting Diagram
F'iij""'~~--=------'i'
BlNe and bit: Stack dado ~t,4S' chamfer Jouterbi\

'Y. x 5'12 x 36" Cherry (1.500. ft.)

'Plane or resaw to the th icknesses listoo in the MaterialS LISt.

60 WOOD mllguln. NovemtX'r 2007

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elide No. 1623
 -

~ ~. ---
Wit:h nearly as much capacity and power as floor-standing units.
these brutes get the job done-for half the price.

hinking about buying a floor- woodworking calls for the tahle to be floor-standing model. Now, hc!fore you

T model drill press? Consider this:

How oflen do you bore into the
long axis of a workpiece (a lamp base,
for example)? Nearly all drIlUng in
situated within 4" of the c huck. That
means a bcnchtop drill press not only
can handle most of your drilling needs
dismiss b~ nchtop drills as toy modcb,
read on to find o ut how manufacturers
have narrowed the gap betwt"en them
but it abo costs about half as much as a and their ta ller cousins.

62 WOOD maga:lin.. Nov~mbl!r 2007

Three-pulley systems (left) provide more speed selection Ind slipped less under torque thiln stepped two-pulley systems (center) In our tests _
For continuous ViJrlable spud, Ryobl 's shiv pulleys (righr) open and close II you change the speed setting. At top speNt, as shown, the drive
pulley closes down to run the belt neilr Its outer perimeter, whUe the spindle pulley opens 11$ widest. For the slowest speed, the dri~ pulley
opens up and the spindle pulley doses down. The \lilri .. bl~spe-ed presses In our test also e)(hlblted little, if any, slippage under torque.
Benchtol' drill presses
do the Job for less money
Despitc their small size, benchtop mod-
els offer workpiece capacities prt>tty close
to (ull-size presses. All eight machines
we tested offer 12-14" of swing (giving
you 6-7" between the chuck. center and
column), compared with the 17" swing
typical ofa floor-model dri ll press. Seven
feature at least a 3" stroke (the maximum
depth you can plunge a bit). Stationary
presses range from a 3*," to S' Stroke.
Here again, how often do you drill
deeper than a 3" hole?
Although a few have less, most of the
tested presses have ~. to ¥,.hp motors,
equal to those on typical floor models.
Most have ample power to bore holes
larger than 2'1./;" without forcing the bit
to stall, although two machines strug-
gled in that te~t.
Don't let a small p'ackage G048S and r.7943 and the Rlkon 30-
betray the power Inside 120. On multispeed units llke these, we
Curiam. to see if these ma(hines' horse· prefer the lever-style locks, shown at bot-
power ratings ('onverted to real drilling tom lefl. on the Grizzly G7943 and Rikon
powt"I, we foree·fed each drill pres... a 30-120, which make it easy to adjust
steady diet of hard maple and white oak motor tension. Spring-loaded rods on
under large bits and hole saws, trying to others proved more troublesome.
make the bits stall. Using a sharp 2Yl"
Forstner bit and a 2l4- holc saw, we
drilled into 2"-thick stock, going easy at
first, and then forcing it.
Drm presses with three pulleys, such
as the Shop Fox, shown ahoY(;' left, han·
dll'd these tough tests best without the
motor stalling or the belts Slipping. The
two variable-speed units-the Delta
DP-350 and Ryobi DP121L- also per-
formed we!!, a\ their wide V·belts trans-
ferred power from the pulleys tu the
spindle without slipping. On the other
hand, Craftman's 21914 and Delta's
OP300L proved easier to stall with their
narrow V-belts and smallish pulleys.
For speed changes, you just can't beat
the ease of the variable-speed controls
on the Delta Or3S0 and Ryobi drill
presses, shown at right. We like this fea·
ture because It encourages us to actually
change speeds--come on, we've all been
guilty of not changing speeds for differ·
ent sizes of bits, right?-by making it so
darned easy. With variable-speed presses,
the drive and spindle pulleys open and
dose, as shown at top right, changing the
chuck speed as you adjust the speed·
control handle. We give extra kudos to
Ryobi for Including a digital display that
shows the spindle speed.
Variable-speed control eliminates the
nuisance of moving belts to make s~
changes, which can be difficult, espe-
cially on taller models like the Grizzly
63

Expect your depth stops
to be accurate, repeatable
Every drill press should have a sturdy,
reliable stop for drilling multiple holes
to the same depth. The Ryobi and Delta
DP350 did not. These eight units feature
two styles of depth stops (shown above):
a threaded rod on the left side of the
These three tUI samples show the depth
difference between the lOOth and first holes
for the Ryobl (rop), Delta DP350 (cente,), and
Gri zzly G0485 (bottom).
Other features to influence
your buying decision
• Spindle runout was a pesky,
but not major problem.
Runout-thc wobble of the spindle as [t
spins-varied from .001' to .009 " with
the eight machines when measured with
a precision steel rod locked in the chucks.
(Industry standards vary, but several
manufacturers say they demand .006"
or le~ of spindle runout.) But when we
drilled holes with each machine USing a
2" Forstner bit, we found almost no dif-
ference in diameter, even on the
machines with the greatest runout. We
did find that the wobble In the worst
machines made it slightly tougher to
64
head or a dial stop on the handle shaft.
To test the effectiveness of each unit's
stop, we drilled 100 holes using a %"
Forstner bit, and then measured tht
depth of the first and last holes with a
digital caliper, noting any variation.
Threaded-rod stops with locking nuts
performed flawlessly in our tests, with
hole depths varying le~ than .005". The
qukk.release nut on Delta's DP350,
however, rotated about a ljuarter·turn
during the testing, resulting in a differ·
ence of .018- from the first hol(' to the
last. We found mixed results with the
dial stops, with hole depths on thr!:!!:'
machines changing from .003" to .OOS".
However, Ryobi's 100tl1 hole was .062"
(Yl6") deeper than its first.
Don't look for the Ideal
drill-press table here
With all the improvements made to drill
presses recently, manufacturers continue
to overlook tables. All tested models
have cast·iron tables-better suited for
metalworking-wIth rack·and·pinion
place the point of a spinning bit pre·
dst'ly onto a ctosshair.
• Lase" prove helpful.
The Craftsman, Delta DP300L, and
Ryobl have bright. red uosshair lasers to
aid in aligning your drill bit. Once (:ali-
brated, they proved dead·on at marking
the centerpoint of any bit. Ryobi gets
praise for easy adjustment and for being
wired to the machine. (The others are
battery.operated.) Delta's laser mounts
to the column lust below the head, so it
provides the hest angle, especia lly for
large bits that can block the others.
Craftsman's laser location led us to acd-
dentally knock it out of adjustment
several times during testing.
Left to rig~t
Thr~aded · rod dept h 5tops
with two locking nuts proved
the most reliable in our test.
Delta's DP3S0 has a qukk·
release nut for making large
depth adjustments quickly.
Dial stops, like thi s one on
the Rlkon, stop the quill·fel!d
handle rotation to conlrol
drilling deplh.
Th e undersides of these three tables show
how difficult It ca n be to find good clamping
area, except on the Ryobi.
crank lifts. Large, deep gussets and
extended rims underneath make it dif·
Hcult to clamp workpieces to the tables.
The best of the bunch is on the Ryobi
with a 2"·widc perimeter underneath, as
shown aixwe. We could damp a fen(;e or
jigs to this table eaSier than the others.
• Handle leverage proves
critical for larger bits.
A long handle provjde~ more force than
a short one on a drill press. The handles
on two tested models (Rlkon and Delta's
DP300L) proved uncomfortably .. hort.
One of Craftsman's three handles,
shown on the next page, top, produced
good leverage and the most comfortable
and ergonomiC feel of any handle.
• Mortising with these presses
requires great patience.
Sure, you call use mortising attachments
on most of these machines. (All but
Ryobi offer them as accessories.) But
between removing eqUipment (lasers,
chuck guards, etc.) to make room for the
WOOD magarln ~ Nowmber 2007
attachment, fussing with adding and
aligning a fence, and adjusting the depth
stops, it's hardly worth the effort.
Instead, we believe it's worth the money
to invest In a benchtop mortlser.
• Come on, baby, light my work.
Incandescent lights mounted inside the
head behind the chuck produce a lot of
light, but large bits create a shadow on
the centerpoint you need to sec. We
prefer incandescent lights mounted on
flexible necks (on both Delta models) so
you can direct light exactly where you
need it. Craftsman's flexible LEO light
proved too dim to offer much help.
• It's a hlIndy sander, too.
Shop Fox's WI668 converts to an oscil- Craft sman's norh:ontal handle proved When usIng Shop Fox', drill prest in ,lin
lating spindle sander, shown at far right, effective and comfo rtable, eYen with large oscl llatlng spI nd le sande r, attach your sl'lop
with a simple belt change. Insert one of bits that req uire more forc e. vacuum hose t o th e 2'/4" dust port.
the three sanding drums into the chuck,
and then swing the table so the drum machine on and off. But it matters most especially if you can't take your eyes off
can drop through the 214" holE'.. when you need it in an emergency. WE' your work. Shop Fox's side-mounted
• Switches do mak~. dtffe,..nce. Ilke front-mounted paddle-style switches paddle switch proved more dIfficult to
You only need a power switch to turn a because they're easiest to turn off, find quickly.

Meet the benchtop drill t eam

Craftsman 21914, $200 Delta DP300L, $200 Delta DP350, $240

800-383-4814, craftsman.com
We like the unique quill-feed handle
and digital depth scale, but the drive
belt on this light-duty machine slipped
easily while drilling with large hits. With
high spindle runcut, we hat! difficulty
placing hit." onto a pinpoint crosshalr.
The LED worklight is a g{xxl idea, but
too dim. You need to remove-and later
recalibrate-the laser from the quill to
install a mortising attachment,
800-223-7278, deltaportercable.com
Like the Craftsman, this machine is
light-duty, with the bdt slipping easily
when ming large bits and hole saws. Its
handles are small and toylsh, it has an
inch less of quill stroke than the uther
models, and it has the smallest tahle.
The Dr~OOL's laser proved accurate and
helpful, and we liked the fleXible work-
light. Its dial depth stop performed well
in testing.
800-223-7278, deltaportercable.com
We love the versatility of this unit's vari-
able speed, although the addition of
speed markings on the scale would make
this good drill press even better. The
depth stop's quiCk-release nut makes for
fast adjustments but slipped more than
we like in Our 100-hole test. Large quill-
feed handles provide good leverage, and
the- flexible incandescent worklight puts
bright light where needed.

65
Grlzzly G0485, $190
800-523 ·4777, grlzzly.com
This no·frills drill press proved itself
capabllt and accurate beyond our expec-
tations, given Its low price. It had the
least amount of quill and spindle run·
out, and Its depth stop produced 100
h()l~s ofidenllcal depth-the ~st in the
test. With a bottom-end speed of 230
rpm and top ~peed of 3,270 rpm (16
tota!), the G04BS provides a wider speed
range than most, for large and small
hits. It's Ihe only unit to indude a clear·
plastic safety guard around the chuck.
66
Grizzly G7943, 1225
800-523-4777, grizzly.com
Capacity, capacity, capacity: The G7943's
14 ~ swing. lfI-hp motor, and ~. chuck
were all tops among the eight tested
machines. It also has a generous table,
and weighed the mm1 at 140 pounds.
WIth a test-best slow speed of 140 rpm,
it has the low-cnd torque to handle large
boring jobs with case, and its threaded-
rod depth stop proved reliable. OUf lone
knock: With the most spindle runout in
the test, we had difficulty pladng bits
onto d pinpoint crosshal!.
Rlkon 30-120, $250
877-884-5167, rlkontools.com
Rikon's 42"-lall machine provides the
largest vertical capacities in the test. Rut
it a lso ,equlr~d a step-stool to change
speeds. The 30-120'5 low-end 220 rpm
proves a plus for large bits, and ib 3,600
rpm top speed was highest among the
eight machines. With the largest table
center hole (114"), it also has replaceable
inserts. The handles are short and awk-
ward to use, though, and we bumped
ou r hand regularly on the motor ten·
sioning lever when lowering the quill.
WOOD m a gazlnt! Nov~mber 2007

Ryobl DPI21L, $170
800·525·2579, ryobitoob.com
The DP121L sports big-machine featu res
(variable speed, digital speed d isplay,
and a reliable Laser crossh air that n ever
needs batteries) at a benchto p drill-press
price. It has the best table fo r clamping
with an ad justable tilting !lealt', an d the
price Includes a work-holding vise. Only
one thing stood between t he DP121L
and our Top Tool award: Its depth stop
slipped the m ost in our testing. If you
don't do m uch multiple-hole drilling,
though, get this machine.
Most perform well;
Here's what we'd buy
There was no runaway choJce for
Top Tool because each machine
had its quirks. Nevertheless, we
feel confident in recommending
both the Grizzly 00485 and Delta
DP350 as Top Tools. The Grizzly is
a solid, no-frill~ machine that
delivers highly accurate results-its
depth stop never budged while
drilling 100 holes.
We like the Delta DP350 for its
variable-speed control, surprisingly
high torque, flexible work light,
and large knobs on long handle
shafts. We'd be willing to live with
Shop Fox WI668, $260 a little slippage of Its depth stop to
800-840 -8420, shopfox,blz have the variable speed.
The W1668 Is an average-performing The unreliable depth stop on the
drill press that doubles as an osclllatlng Ryobi DPl21L kept it froOl con-
spindle sander and comes with th ree tending for Top Tool. But if that's a
d rum s 1- 2· In diameter. That may make non-Issue for you, this i~ a power-
it worth the premium price to you. It has ful variable-speed drill press, nicely
a good speed range, and its depth stop equipped, fOr $70 less than the
proved reliable in our testing. The sand- DP350. So the np121l. earns our
ing relief hole and dust port make Top Value award . •
clamping workpleces to the right side of
the table difficult. The left-side-mounled Written by Ioob Hunter with Jeff H.II
power switch Is more difficult to reach
than fmnt-mounted ones.

,
=."""
Not~:
Lirgnt di.lmrltr wodpiM)'O\I un drilll0 1M (tilltr. (Oo~
1ht disuno:, f10m 1ht dllJ(k n"fllrllO 1M o:nlumll ~~. I.
E.Mtefit
L ,VI, Vaflabl~spN'd Flir

,.
.
~Ideplll~op
1
10' Thr~iCled
rCld With quick-rtlm~ nul
Sorin9 wllh 2Y1" fl>l"sln~ bit and 2~' 1"10110 lAW in bMd
'(1'
W m.lplund"h~UH.

.., III
Ihrudt~ rod wllh kxklng nu~

Dwf sIClpWl~ nullol:k

INI ~lQP with 1!"'I~r 100k
•• .,
If' ftll(t
ChoIc1Ojl"ud

',."
'hruded r~d Wllh nUl led
Thr~~drod wilh Itv~ led
''"" Chlic1ktyhollltr
Light

, ,. 'M) M,mlsin9ltlMhrnrnt
~ldll"><ldlO{k
&iUon 'M
'M P~Odlt 0'
(ij
s.rMling drums
TooIu",
(1' T099lf [)rlll~k,
IVJ
IrI(alld~tbtJlb Dfltldi~lt~ rm

".""
6. Prius (Urnnllt time 0/ art;.:l, prOOulliDfl ~nd doc not
10.
11\(~~I1l!brJlbinhta(i
lodudt ~jng. wflM jppIK"bIe.
(LED) Ught~~Ling dillClf Of! fImbI~ irm
(MIA) Ito hght illdu(\ed

67
 Ikebana Vase
Ikebana, the Jap<lnese art of arranging flowers, differs from Western practice by using
asymmetrical form and including empty space as part of the composition. Anyplant
material-branches, leaves, grasses, moss, andfruit-may be used, Withered leaves,
seedpods, and buds are valued as highlyasflowers in fu\\ bloom.
The vase is considered an important part of the whole. With this
simple project, you(an create a pebbled stage for a few carefully
chosen branches and blossoms.

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS
• ~rall dimensions: 5Y.z" Wide x
lOW long 11: I¥.' high.
• Shown here in cherry.
Skill Builder
• Save time and ensure accurate miters
on layered parts by cutting the parts
oversize, gluing them together, and
mitering the assembled parts.

1 From V."·thick stock, cut tray-side

(A) blanks and base-side (C) blanks
to finished Width IMaterialslist l and 11"
long. Then cut tray-end (8) blanks and
base-end (D) blanks to flnished width
and 6-long. Finish-sand the blanks.
the base parts (e, 0). Then glue and
damp the frame (Al B/C/ O ), checking
fo r square.
mark the finished lengths and t he over-

2 CU\ raboc ts a long the bottom inside

edges of the tray-side (A) and tray-
end (8) blanks IDrawing 11_ Then, to
make the part of the tray visible thlOugh
the base (e, D) cutouts "dlsappear,~
coLor the bottom portion of each side
and end IPhotoA].
Adhere the base-side (el and base-
lap of the tray parts A and B on the base
parts Cand 0 [Drawlng 21. Now bandsaw
.:Ind sand the cutouts, and remove the
patterns. To get top-notch re~ults when
sanding the cutouts, see page 26.
4 separate t h e parts. Then glue and
clamp the tray $ides CAl to the base
6 Check the dimensions of the t ray
(AlB) rabbeted opening, and cut the
bottom (E) to sil.('. Chuck a 2" Forstner
bit Into your drill press, and drill a hole
fOJ the flanged flower arranger 1Drawing
11. Finish-sand the bottom, and glue
and clamp it into the tray rabbets.

7 From ¥4"-thick stock, cut a }xlZ'

3 end (0 ) blanks together back-to-

back and edges flush with double-faced
tape. Photocopy the Sase Patterns on the
WOOD Patterns. insert, and cut them
out. Adhere the patterns to the appropri-
ate paired blanks with spray adhesive,
centering the patterns end-to-end. Then
slde$ (C), and the tray ends (8) to the
base ends (D), aligning the tray part /:x)t-
tom edges with the overlap IIne~ on the
blank for the shott dividers (F) and
long divider (G). Check the dimensions
from the tray sides and ends (A, B) to t he
ends of the base parts IDrawing 11. Use edge of the hole In the bottom (E), and
the glue sparingly to avoid !>4u~Le-out. cut the dividers to length. Band:S3w a
5 Mitt'.r the side-blank (AlC) and end-
blan.k (HID) assemblies to finished
length, cutting to the lines marked on
notch into each part (Drawing 11 . finis h-
sand the diViders, and glue and c1<lmp
them in place [Photo BJ.

68
 Materials List
fiNISHED Silt
Pal't T W L MIt! Qty
traySides '/4" lY4' e ,
" 1(4" 1'/4"
10"
e ,
" tr3')'eods
C' base sido3 1(4" 11(4" 10'11"
S'
e
D' ""',"", 1(4' 11(4" 51;," e ,
E boll0m V,' 4'1," ~/,·

F' shortdividers 1;4" ," W,"

"e ,
G' IoogdMder 1;4' 61;4' e
"
'P;Jrts Inltialty QJI C7'1~sl:t. SH the ~rllCticm,

Matirlallltey;C-cherry. Sf-birch plywood.

Suppllel: Dooble·facl!d tape, spray ad~i~. pefl~-
nen( I:II ~ck felt-tip mar\(er.

bottom Blltde Ind bit: Stac~ a'.1oos«. r For~tnerb lt.

blank and tra y-end (81 blank
black felt-tip marker.
fitting, glue and clamp
and long divider (G) in place.
(EI
Source
Flower .rnnger: Bladpewterflanged fIowe<
~naflger r.o, t58914. $7.95 ea,CalI Paaard Woodwofts,
800.()B3-8876, or go to pad:.ardwoodwor\s.com.

D EXPLODED VIEW Cutting Diagram

o D F G
c
B B
A A
V. x 5'1.1 x 24' Cherry (.3 cd ft.)
,,---'---------,
W,,'<>e" /e" doop

ends

1 V,"
®
'10 x 12)( 12" Birch plywood

Mitered ",,'c----I\S~
Area colored
with permanent
black fell-tip marl<er

Learn more
about Ikebana
For informa tion about
the basic styles of
ikebana and how to
create them, as well
as a plan for an
additional ikebana
vases go to
woodmagazine.com!
ikebana .
Tray OIIer1ap marks
(Marl< on bolh ends)

8 Examine all Ihe parts, and finish-

sand where needed. Do not sand the
black-colored areas. Apply a clear finish.
9 1nsert the flower arranger, cradling
the flange in the divider (F, G)
notches, and fill the tray with pebbles.
with water, and artfully position a hand-
ful of long-stemmed blossorn.~ . •

(We applied three coats of satin pOlyure- (we purchased a bag of polished pebbles Written by Jan SVf!{ with Chuck Hedlund
thane from a spray can, sandingbetween from a crafts supply store, and picked Project d~l.i9"; Khi" Boyle
coats with 220-grlt sandpaper.) out the black ones.) Now fill the arranger Illulttalioru: Rounn" LeMoine; lorna Johnson

woodmagildne.com 69

V ~h~;
may
be filled with the
finest cutting and
shaping tools moncy
can buy, but if you don't
measure and mark precbely,
your prOject parts will fit like a
cheap suit. Perhaps that's why
woodworking catalogs offer page after
page of products promising to make you
a more accurate woodworker. To help
you sort it all out, here are the marking
and measuring tools we find essential,
plus some that are just darned useful.
First make sure
you have the basics
Before you fill your drawers with fancy
gadgets, you need a handful of high-
quality marking and measuring devices.
The five items shown above may not be
flashy, but you'll reach for them nearly
evcry day.
o 6" and 12" steel rules
Look for a matte or salin finish with
etched markings (rather than stamped)
for accuracy and readability. Increments
should go down to at least 1/32". Buy
one with a combination-square head
and you'll multiply its value at least
threefold by adding the abi lity to check
and mark perfect 90° and 45° angles.
f) Folding rulll!
POT longer dimensions, a 6' folding
wooden rule provides more rellable
accuracy than a retractable steel tape
70
~e
Measuring k
Marking Tools
After months of testing, these super·accurate layout helpers
earned a permanent place in the WOOD® magazine shop.
measure because there's no hook on one
end that can get damaged and affect the
accuracy. Get the kind with a sliding
extension for dead·on measurement
inside cases and boxes.
~ 4n or 6" machinist square
Ideal for tool SClup and for marking
crosscuts preCisely, it slips easily into an
apron pocket. Good thing, too, DeGl.me
you'll reach for this more often than you
might think.
o Sliding bevel gauge
This Simple devlce performs for any
anglc what a combination square does
for 90° and 45 making transferring or
Q
, repositioned along the end of the rule to
duplicating that odd angle foolproof,
without even havi ng to knm\' the angle.
CD Mechani(01l pencil or marking kntfe
Measuring to a gnat's backside means lit-
tle if your old carpenter's pencil makes a
wide swath. A marking knife scores razor-
thin lines, and a mechanical pencil's thin
mark is consistent and predictable.
Now add to your arsenal
with these handy helpers
Once you have the basiCS covered, you
can expand your collection of marking
and mea~uring tools. To separate the
gimmich from the "gotta haves," we
bought several hundred dollars worth of
these temptingt<xJ[s and tried them out.
Here are the keepers.
o 4" double square
Take the hest features of a combination
square {easy adjustability and measure·
Must-
ment markingsj, mix in the best features
of a machinist square (precision and
pocket portability), and you'll sec why
we like a 4' double square. The blade
slides through the body for gauging
reveals on cabinet doors or for setting
up saw blades and router bits, without
being cumbersome like a full-size
combo square.
S31.50 ( L~ valley, 24NOS.Ol)
& 12" adjustable hook rule
Like the hook on the end of a retractable
tape measure, the one on the end of this
steel rule makes it easy to illeasure from
an overhanging edge. The hook can be
work with thin materials; to reach over a
routed edge, as shown; or you can
remove it completely if you like. Four
scales (one on each edge, front and back)
let you choose incremental markings
from Ii" to Y64", depending on hOY>' acCu -
rate you want to bt'.
$22.50 (Lee Valley, 24NOB.l1)
o Ruler Stop
We use stopblocks on the tablesaw,
router table, and drill press practically
Sources
You'll find thlC' "basics' at many retailers and
in catalogs, includ ing the ones listlC'd blC'low.
Sour<:lC's for thlC' othlC'r products arlC' listed at the
end of lC'a<:h dlC'scription.
Garr~U Wad~, 800-221·2942, garrettwade.com
L•• Valley, BOO·871·8158, leevalk'Y-wm
Mcfeely's, 800·44)·7937, mcfeely5.Com
MLCS, BOO·533-9298, mkswoodwOfking.<:om
Rockier, 800·279·4441, rockler.com
Woodcraft, 800·225·1153, woodcraft.<:Om
WOOD ma g.:.zine NOVEmber 2007

every day In the WOOv. magazine shop
to emure multiple match ing cuts o r
evenly spaced holes. Why wouldn't you
want that same reliable repeatability
when marking and measuring? The
dovetail slot In th is handy add-on g rips
virtually any steel rule up to 1¥W" wide.
We put a Ruler Stop <It each end of a 12"
rule and flipped It end for end as we
marked a series of cabinet door handles
2" up from the boUom (flIp!) and t " in
from the edge.
Ga rrett Wade, S19.9S (16R01 .l 0)
o Ve nta$. Miter Hook
TIlt.' toughest measurement to make
accurately has to be the short lengt h (Of
heel) of a mitered workpiece, such as the
inside dimensions of a picture frame o r
window casing. Verltas' MUer Hook
makes this previously formidable task
foolproof by giving you a solid place to
hookyouf retractable steel tape measure.
Steel pins bite into the end grain, and
rare-earth magnets keep thl' tape from
coming unhooked from the hook. As a
bonus, stepped edges around the Miter
Hook act as IAI" and Y." reveal gauges for
perfect placement uf moldings.
S12.9S ( Lee Va ll ey, OSN37.01 )
4D> Qu ick Comers
We've a ll done it: To marl.. a radius on
the corner of a workpiece, you pull out a
coin (or soda can, or glue bottle, or roll
of masking tape, aT... ) and trace around
it. It's tough, though. to locate that tem-
porary temptate peTfectly on the rorner.
Quick Corners transparent templates
self-index to any square oorner for mark-
Ing precise radii every time. We found
the yellow template, for marking convex
curves from Y.l" to 2" in ~. increments,
the most useful. The ~t also includes
templates for /,:oncave radII, chamfered
corners, and cunvex radii up to 6".
S20 (McFe eIY'5, Rockie r, Woodc:ridt)
.. . .....
~
2
.
CD Unive rsal Angle Guide
When you need to mark a known angle
(and not merely copy or match one),
you can't beat the precision of this
multi·function tool. Although spcndy.
its super-fine la~r-etched markings pro-
vide a dt'ad-on reference for any angle
from O~ to 1800 In ~o Increments. Use it
to set your miter gauge or sliding ht'vd
gauge, as shown at right. Either end of
the Universal Angle Guide also can be
used to set router bit and saw blade
height, but we found the flnc ma rk ings
difficult to read for this purpose.
MasterGage, S66 (888-8 93·8300,
maslergage.c:om)
o 9 " protractor square
This oversize b('VeJ gauge picks up where
your pockeH.iZ(" model leaves off. For
transferring angles from an odd-shaped
piece to the milcTSaw (as shown) 01 to
your tabJesaw miter gauge, the long
blades of a protractor square provide
plenty of bearing surface to ensure pre-
cise setup. Thlsdevicedoes have a degree
scale that you could use to set specUic
angles, but the small, closely spaced
markings are difficu lt to r('ad.
S20 (lee Valley, Wood c:raft).
71
 '.

"king a screwdriver with a

M custom handle is a project SO

easy and useful that evety turner
,hould make one. You can usc anything from
Watch a FREE two~part
on turning thj~ project at
woodmagaz.ine.com/vldeos.
video

highly figured stock to common shop scraps.

To jazz It up, we laminated a turning blank
from maple and cherry.

1 Gather the materials Insert

1 ~)( 1 '%)(6 "
TEMPLATE LAMINATED

For this project, you'll net>d the materi-

als sho...m at rigllt. La minate the
1~xH.)(6" turning blank from one
V.xl¥.x6' anti two hoxll'4x6" pieces of
stock. To make the turning template,
phOt.f)COPY the Screwdriver Handle Pill-
tern on the WOOD Patternsw hueTt.
Adhere the pattern to cardboard with
spray adhcsivc, and cut it to shape with
a crafts knife. See Source on page 74 for
Ft-rrule
the screwdriver hardware.

SCREWDRIVER KIT

72 WOOD m a yulne NO'\I~mtM:r 1007

Tools: Drive center, drill chuck,
~. brad-point drill bit.
Speed: 500 rpm.
Find the l:enters of the blank ends, and
mark them with a center punch. Then
mount the drill chuck with a h" brad-
point bit in the lathe headstock, and the
lathe drive center in the tailstock. Mark
a drilling depth of 3rt" on the bit with
~~~~£=~~~~~~J ---. -j T'~;9"~IOC_k~~",
L.!-;;.::::":,.....--....
Tools: Drive (enter, cone center, spind le
roughing gouge, parting tool, calipers.
Tool rest: Center.
Speed: 2,000 rpm.
Install the drive center in the headstock,
and the cone center in the tailstock. (If
you don't have a conI! center, see the
Shop Tip, "ext page.) Mount the blank
between centers. inserting the cone cen-
ter into the~· hole. Then use the spindle
roughing gouge to turn the blank to a
IY."-dia meter cylinder.
Measure the length of the brass ferrule
with calipers. Then tramfer this mea-
surement to the tailstock end of the
blank (the end with the ~. hole). Mea-
Tools : Parting tool, spindle roughing
gouge, ¥eo spindle gouge.
Tool rest: Parting tool, roughing
gouge: center; spindle gouge : sl ightly
below center.
Speed: Turning, 2,000 rpm; sanding,
1,000 rpm; finishing 3,000 rpm.
Remount the blank between centers.
Using the template as a guide, mark the
critical diameters on the blank. Make
gauging cuts with a parting tool. Then
usc a spindle roughing gouge, as shown
above right, and spindle gouge to shape
the handle, leaving a ¥t6"-dlameter neck
connecting the handle to the waste.
Don't worry when making cuts close to
the brass ferrule. The high-speed steel
tools will not be damaged if they graze
the soft hrass. Finish-sand the handle,
and apply a clear finish. (With the lathe
woodm.glirltMi.com
masking ta~. Next mount the
blank between the tip of the brad-
point bit and the drive center.
Now, holding the blank with your
left hand to keep it from spinning,
turn on the lathe, advance the
tailstock quill with your right
hand, and bore the hole, as shown
at right.
o Mount the turning SQuare between
the dnll bit arld drive center.
10/. x , ¥. x 6" turnin g square
.Advance the lailstock quill
Drive center
ferrule. Now make overlappIng
cuts with a parting tool, forming a
tenon the same length as the fer-
rule and slightly larger than the
inside diameter. Check the tenon
diameter with calipers, as shown
at right. Remove the blank from
the lathe. Using a mallet and a
wood scrap, drive the ferrule onto
the tenon. toa 1:V'-diam. cylinder.
Drive '-r",ocenter
r
stopped, we applied several coats
of mint!ral oil. Then with the lathe
running, we burnished the surface
with a paper towel.) Now use a
parting tool to separate the handle
from the waste.
Note: A c1ath rag used to apply a fin-
hll call get caught on the tumj"g
piece and cause injury_ Always use a
paper t(JWt/, which tears ftsnag,~d.
~''''''~Ih'' 00;1"," dn,-",.."~,, and make gaugillll cuts.
Drive CElnter
U' Sh"po the handle.
• Finish-sand, and apply a clear finish.
73
 SHOP TIP
Convert a cup to a cone
Most lathes come factory-equipped with a tailstock live cup
center. But to hold a blank with the center drilled away, like
the one in this project, a cup center won't work. You'll need a
cone center. Rather than buying one, here's how to make a
cone-shaped cap for your live cup center.
First cut a 2x2x 3- block of hardwood. Then install a four-jaw
chuck onto the head-stock spindle, and grip the block with
the chuck. Use a spindle roughing gouge to turn as much of
the block as possible to a 2" cylinder. Next use a parting t ool
to turn a lW-diameter tenon Y4" long on the tailUock end, as
shown below left. Reverse the block, gripping the tenon in the
four-jaw chuck. Now finish turning the cylinder.
Install a d rill chuck into the tailstock quill, and into the
chuck, a Forstner bit sl ightly larger than the outside diameter
of the live cup center. Advance the quill, and bore a l "-deep
hole into the cylinder. Then, sta rting 11f4" from the end of the
blank, use a skew chisel to form a 45° cone, as shown be/ow
center. Part the cone from the waste held in the chuck. Now
slip the cone over the live cup center and use it to hold the
handle blank, as shown below right.

2)( 2)( 3'

turning square
Four·Jaw chock tI.,,,,,,, truing lha blank.

Four-jaw chuck • Bore a recess lor the Ctlp cenler. Four-}a.w chuck

Place the Insert plain end up (the end waste, apply mineral all. and burnish.
withUlJt the slots for the bosses on the Snap th e double-ended screwdriver bIts
screwdriver shaft) onto a hardwood scrap Into the shaft, and dick the shaft into the
on your workbench. Position the handle handle, as shown below. •
hole over the Insert, and tap the handle
onto the insert with a dead-blow mallet,
as shown at left. Drive the insert flush
with the end of the ferrule. Finish-sand
the handle where it was parted from the
00'"

Bit

~.
W,IItf"fl by Jln 5nc with Briln Simmons
P,ojKt dtlign: Koo~ln Bo"l~
IIlultrltlom: Ronnne L.Molne; Lo.nl Johnson
Source
Scrl'!wdrivf!r hllrdw.re kIt: 4-in·l 5<rewdrivf:"
Turning Kil no. 37707, $6.79. Rocklef; 800-279-4441,
rodder.com.

74 WOOD magulne No¥ember 2007

 , • SIIap. mul"pl. _Ides per palll
' .... •
• '"00" 'rom 500+ PaHe"..1
•
• • I'SIC FREI 30.Day
fria' ONerl

"'t\lU CAN MAKE A

GOOD LMNG MAKING
MOLDING WITH AWOODMASIER~
"My partner and I malt4!' custom moldings,
Now, turn 0 5S.OO rough board into flooring, wainscoting, mantles and more. In
575.00 worth of high-dollar molding in 1-1/ 2 days, we surfaced 2,500 board feet of
just minutes. Make over 500 standard hickory. Our tMl famNIes are making a p i
pattern s, curved mold ing, to ngue & livilg. 1f )(IU hao.oe a v.oodmasrer and a table saw.
)OU can make II ~ IMn& malQng molding."
groove, p ictu re frame stock, any custom
- James Tolley. Black HaWk SO
design. QUICKLY CONVERTS from
Molder/ Planer to Drum Sander or power-
feed Multi-Blade Ripsaw. Mode in U.S .A.
5·Yeor Warranty. Choose from 12 ", IS" ===·..=,.I;"i~21
or 25 " models . MULrlPU SlDIS PIli PIUS!
Var'a"'. '.ed Malee_
flo. D'He....~.1
Just a twist oJ the ad adjusts the VVoodmoster
ITom 70 to over 1,00Cl culs per inch. Produces
a glo$S-$lTlOOlh ~nish on tricky gmin ~lIems no
other planer con handle. Plenty of American-
mode ~ m uscJe" fa handle money-soving,
"straight.from.the-sowmill" lumber. Ideal for
higl-wolue curved molding.

HURRY - GETYOUR FREE DVD & BUSINESS STARTER KIT!

CALL TODAY and we'll RUSH ~u OUf new Woodmaster OW & BuSiness Plan1You'llleam exactly how to start &
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WoodmasterTools, Inc. 1431 N.
Dept Ave., Kansas City, MO 64120, www.WoodmasterTools.com

C!rcle No . 1820
 t!rt!'... the ba~ic recipe for making
PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS
• Omam~nts are 3MI' to 4W high .
• Materials needed: W medium-demity
• Choose from seven full-sire patterns
on the WOOD PcJftf'rns. insert.
H two identical holiday ornaments
and matching greeting cards in
one shot. The trick: Stack-cutting bun-
fiberboard core plywood (we used dled layers of plywood yields two or
birch and cherry), construction paper, Skill Bullde..
• learn the basin of stack-cutting in more items from one sawing. Slipping In
safe-release masking tape, spray a couple layers of colored paper reaps
adhesive, crafU adh~sive, .025" brass, wood and $Oft metal, and how to make
scrollsawn inlays. additional dividends.
decorative cord.
76
STEP 1 Cut two ornament blanks from '/~"
bitch MDF-core plywood and twoS><S" pieces JiHiI' (iwn
of colored wnstruction paper or card stock,
and stack them together. Sx5" red
Not~: MDF-core plywood flnsurfl5 smoother construction
void·free edges and a uniform c%r for a lu!trer pape'
overall/oak than ply·corf! plywood. '1.x5 x5"
STEP:Z Tightly wrap the Hack with ufe·
releue Iblue) molsking tape.
STEP] Make two photocopies of the
ornament p.lttern of your choice on the
WOODParferns.lnsert, and adhere ooe with )
spray adhesive to the stack. Plywood and paper Slack.
STEP 4 Using your drill press, drill If,," or 160
blade start holes for the inside cuh. For the
best appearance ofthe paper cutouts you'll
use on the greeting card, drill the hole at a
corner of each (utout. liW"
STEP S Make the inside cuts with your
urollsaw and a.l (lOtpi) bladt>.Cut a Pattern
ar..tul, continuous path (no backtracking)
along the pattern lines. As you (omplete
each inside cut, carefully remove tht>
plywood waste and paper. Organize tht>
papt>t cutouts on the second pattern. Now
cut the perimeter. To keep the plywood and
paper sandwich togt>ther and tht> papt>r
layt>rs from shifting, make a continuous cut.
STEP 6 Separate the ornaments and paper SIad<
outlines. and rem aye the muking tape
and pattern. Flnish·sand the ornaments, Masking tape
remoying any fuzzy edges. Drill hanger
holes, where shown on tnt> pattt>rn.
STEP 7 String the ornaments on a thin wire
between uprights, and apply a clear finish.
(We sprayed on satin lacquer.) With the finish
dry, tie a loop of decoratlye cord through
each hanger hole.
STIP 8 To make the greeting card. cut a
7xl0" piece of colored paper and fold it in
h~lf to 5)(7". Then adhere one paper outline
and contrasting Infill pieces to the front of
the card. (We used Elmer's Craft Bond Photo
Stik adhesiye.) Discard the Infill paper for
the bow, lelllng the green background show
through. For the example shown, you'll haYe
two candy cane ornaments and two cards,
one with a red outline and white Infill ,.nd the
other with a white outline and red Infill.
STEP 9 Write your greetings on the card. If
desired, add glitter decoration. (We adhered
glitter with an Elmer's Craft Bond Memory
Book Glue Pen.) tnsert tht> ornament Into the
card. slip them into ao enyelope, and mail.
(B..toremaillng.ch .. k with your post office
for the necessary postage.)

('Hi'
(

woodmIlQulrK'.(om 77
 *** VARIATIONS ON THE THEME
Try a different angle for inlay
Instead of a fretwork ornament, you can
make an inlaid one by stack.cutting two
contrasting-color species and filting the
cutouts of one into the outline of the
other. Using this method, you'll get one
ornament from each two-piece stack.
To eliminate the saw kerfs, simply tilt
the scrollsaw table. This turns the cutouts
into tapered plugs for an airtight fit
between the parts. The thinner the blade
you use, the less you'll have to tilt the
scrollsaw table to make the cutout and
outline surfaces tlush, and the better the
ornament looks from both sides. (The #2
blade we used needed only a 30 tilt.)
With a slow feed rate and careful cutting,
you can use this technique on almost any
pattern, but you'll get the best results on
desigm with large, less-intricate cutouts
like the tree, candy cane, and snowman.
Here's how to modify the basic stack-
cutting recipe.
In St ep 1, use one piece of birch-veneer
plywood and one piece of cherry-veneer
plywood. Position the veneer color you
INLAY VARIATION: STEP4a Make a tut(Uto ut.
Centerline of "~'" ?~,~, 112 (20 tpi) blade
do'Nnhllllrom
Test cutout p'""'<><"''''1 paper stack
"
78
IN LAY VARIATION: STEP 1
Cherry-veneer
MDF-core
plywood
lor the oulline
want for the outline on the bottom and
the infill on the top [Inlay Varia tion:
Step 1 above]. Make an extra plywood
and paper sandwich from scrap for
testing the tilt of the scrollsaw table.
Proceed as instructed in Steps 2 and 3.
Before drilling the blade start holes in
Step 4, draw a 1"-diameter circle on your
test sandwich, tilt your drill-press table
r, and with the ccnter of the circle
downhill from the bit, drill a blade start
hole at the edge of the circle. Tilt the
scrollsaw table 30 and cut the circie,
keeping the center downhill from the
blade [l nlayVarilition: Step 4a below left).
Remove the cutouts and fit the top
cutout into the hole in the bottom
plywood layer (Inlay Variation: Step 4 b
below righl]. The surfaces of the cutout
and the bottom layer should be flmh. If
the cutOl!t protrudes from the surface of
the bottom layer, decrease the table tilt.
If the cutout drops below the surface of
the bottom layer, increase the table tilt.
With a satisfactory fit, adjust your drill-
INLAY VARIAT ION: STE P 4b Tut th" fit.
Top layer
cutout
Cutout protrudes:
Decrease tilt angle.
* **
Birch-veneer
MDF-core plywood
for the imill
Construclion paper
press table to match the tilt of the
scrollsaw table, and drill blade start holes
for the ornament inside cuts with the
center at each cutOlJt on the downhill
side of the bit. (Drill toward the center of
the cutout.)
Moving to Step 5, make continuous
inside cuts keeping the center of the
cutout on the downhill side of the blade.
(The! perimeter of the cutout slopes
inward all around.) The tilted table may
cause the blade to drift to the uphill side
of the pattern line when turning outside
corner5. Compensate by slowing your
feed rate and applying slight pressure
against the downhill side of the blade.
Organize the top plywood layer and
paper cutouts on an extra pattern. With
all the interior cuts complete, return the
scrollsaw table to the 90 0 position, and
make the continuous perimeter cut.
Then go on to Steps 6 and 7. Before
finishing, glue the top layer plywood
cutouts into the openings in the bottom
layer plywood outline.
Bottom layer Top layer cutouts
!
Cutout recessed: Cutout flush:
Increase till angle . Correct tilt angle.
WOOD magazine NO\'~mb<'r Z007
 * ** VARIATIONS ON THE THEME
BRASS VARIATION: STEP 1
* *' *
Add a touch of brass
CX>,"lruolioo paper

.025"-thick brass
ornament blank

When scrollsawing thin soft metals, such
as brass, copper, and alum inum, you
must sandwich t he metal between scraps
of plywood or hardboard to keep the
blade from catching the edges and
distorting the workpiece. You usually
discard the metal cutouts and all the
wood, but a simple change to you r stack
yields two wood ornaments, one b rass
o rnament, and paper cutouts for three
g reeting cards. Here'~ how.
In Step " sandwich one 5xS" piece of
.02S0·thick bras5 and three sheet s of
colored paper between th e p lywood
ornam(>nt b lanks [Bran Vjlriation: Step'
aboyel Then simp ly tollow the remaining
steps, cutting the omament with a #2
blade and the 5aw runn ing at high
~peed. When you remove the brass
ornament from the stack, sand it to a
uniform satin she€n with a 320-grit
sanding sponge, and spray-finish it along
w ith the plywood ornaments . •
In m~mory of Pat Stouffll'r. dll'algMr
D«lI'mbu 17, 1948- MilY 20. 2007
Written by 'iln Svu with K.vln Boyl 11'
I rlv~tration~; Houn..... LII'MoInll'; LornA JohnKln

woodmagll:tine.com 79

3 HP Sliding Table Saw

MODEL 10.110
-Accepts 29/32" Dado - 54-Rip c.p.,clty
• 49- Sliding ~ge • Magnetic Sump Switch
• 518" Arbor • CtO$$cut Fence
 urn your cut-off scrap into

T attractive key chains that will

leave you r friends and family
wondering ~How did you do that?" Tell
them If you want to, but the secret lies
in making a sma ll "log" o f multiple
species; then rutting off slices.

Form a scrapwood blank

Select three l:onlra~ting wood
1 species; we used maple, cherry, and
walnut. We also recommend beech,
ash, birch, or poplar for the light color;
alder, oak, mahogany, or bubinga for
the medium color; and wenge, purple-
heart, or ebony for the dark. We used
12"-long stock; that's the shortest you
can safely run through a planer.

2 Machine your workpieces to the

dimensions shown in Drawing' ,
and laminate them as shown.
Make one for yourself and a dozen for gifts.
l After the glue dries, square the
blank on your jointer and plane to
Ph " ~lJuare, remnving stock from both
edges tu keep the maple strip centered.
IIMAKING THE LAMI NATION THE GROOVES
..--::::;;~~~

Note: After laminating the

parts, JOint and plane the
blank to H~ )(lW.

4 Us,ng a router table with a 1/4"

straisht hit or t<lble ~aw with a'''''
dado set, cut grooves into your blank
for the accent strips [Drawing 2}. (If you
DADOING ACCENT ElCUTIING THE MEDALLIONS chooSE' the tablesaw option, use blades
STRIPS with flat-tipped teeth. Blades
with beveled teeth typically leave
tiny triangula r "cars" in the
bottom o f the g roove.)

5 Machine cherry and wa lnut

accent strips (Drawing 31, and
glue and clamp them Into tht.' corre-
sponding grooves.

6 AftCr the glue dries, sand. the

laminated blank smooth.

7 At your router table, rout Ifi" round·

overs on all four long edges.
'
clI~=}-_-W round·overs along
all edges and ends
continued un pase 82

so WOOD mllgazlne NovemlJ.er 2007

scrapwood Project
Slice off medallions
1 Attach a wood extension to your
bandsaw miter gauge, and clamp a
stopblock to it %" past the cutline. Use
a lO-tpi blaM for a smooth cut. After
stjuaring the end of the blank, cut off
V.""thick medallions fDrawing 4). Stop
when the blank measutes 3" long-it 's
unsafe to cut any more unless you
clamp the blank to the miter gauge
extension.
With a medallion slice secu red in a
2 damp, drill a 3/16" hole [Photo A].

3 USing the same clamping tech-

nIque, rout 1A." round-overs
[Photo BJ on all edges of the medallion.

4 Sand smooth to 220 grit; then

spray with three coats of satIn
polyurE'thane. Sand between coats with
a 320-grlt sponge. Hang the medallions
on fishing line to spray them so you
can do all sides simultaneously.
Cut a piece of beaded chain 4" long,
S thread it through the medallion
hole, and couple it with a connector.
Beaded chain and connec.tors are For plans on making a second
available at hard·ware stores and home design, as shown, go to
centers . • woodmagazine.com/keychain.

82 WOOD magoulne November 2007

• PlwlSlollfnrln'dI...
PrICI1I _ _ _
This router table ~> 11 whole
new!evel of Pl"easIOOto your
'M"Jodshop. Through <:In amazing
~ of inrloItaWe fearurH.
including its t~~ \'; inst>ired
5elf-sq\.lariog fence. Precislot'llens
CUfSOl". iInd rcmfQrcoo MDF top with

. _--,-
E:as~·5lde""' Mk:ro.Dot skirt it brtrl9S
new rneanin9 to me words "full-featurec!."

.....,
Whether it'S being ttIrdNn into the
back of 11 pjckt;p tnK:k on. me way
to too iObSl tt' Of used. to save ~o:::<:!!
space in a 5frt3II woodsheP.
;hIs router table IS the rug\led
end mobile. SOlution to true
pre<:~;O:'\ routing. For tOO yery
firST. ti'11£', naving poftabifity
doesu·t mean Qiv!og lA) the pr«lsion
and· features qf a fuJI·SiZed router table

~1_A41.IU.
Create Unique Gifts this Holiday Season
Impress your friends & family this year with unique gifts created from our easy to mau kits. Choo$l'
from one 60 lathe project kits including pens, pencils. boule stoppers. perfume atomizers,
letter opener" magnifiers. key chains, toya., candlnliclu and more!

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Get startsd with this complete set that includes "'"y1hi",,,,~'''
to get started making pens for the holidays.

Starter SfH includes:

• Turncrefter™ Pro midi lathe
• 40 Slimline Kits (pen & pencil)
• Pen mandrel set
• 3·pc. HSS lathe chisel S8t
• Preparation accessoriel: glue, trImmer
and tube insertion tool
• Rosewood & Padauk blanks
• Finishinll accsssories: sanding. wax
and assembly pen press
• Pen making instructional DVD
• FItEE UPS Shipping wnhin the col1tin",ttJl U.S.

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This pen's exquiSite styling and comfonable grip
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Project set includes:

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Perfume Atomiz.r Gih Sets &. black anamel
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Turn absolutely beautiful perfume atomizers - a variety of exotic wood blanks"
for the special woman in your life.
• set of bushings
Pro/set set includes:
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• 318~ drill bit
• set of bushings

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Beautiful and elegant, your handcrafted stopper
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Your
Woodturning Visit www.pennstateind.com/holiday07
& Dust Collectioo 1_ ......
Source or call 1-800-377-7297 for more details or to get a free catalog.
Workshop Sam
Fuss-free faux
through-tenons
Give a project the look of finely crafted
through-mortise-and-ten on joints, without the
hassle, by making these practical pretenders.
ure, through-morthe-and-tenon
S joiots look great. But they should,
given the time you'll need to
precisely cut and fit them. Here we'll
show you how to install faux tenons to
conceal an casy-to-makc, screw-
rei nforced butt joint.
First, cut a shallow mortise
To rout a quick, accurate mortise, create
a template from two pieces of Y-I"·thick
scrap. Each piece should be about half
as wide as your router base and about 8"
longer than the length of the mortise.
To mimic a real mortise-and-tenon
joint, m ake the m ortise length lh"
shorter th an the part that will butt
against the face opposite the mortise.
The m orthe width will equal the
thickness of the part it complements.
DivIde the mortise width in h alf and
m ake that dimension your dado depth.
Then cut a dado as wide as the mortise
length, as ~h()'wn IDrawing 1]. Edge-glue
FOR ROUTING THE DADO
DTE MPLATE HALVES ATTACH~E~O ::::::::::::::::i~~~~~~~~d
'r-
2'
L...
Attach with
dOuble-faced tape. mortise widt h
Template
E) MORTISE-ROUTING
TEMPLATE WITH STOP
Mortise distance
from workpiece edge
'-=<,,,......~-
84
the halv~ to make the
routing template [Drawing 21.
Then attach a stop under-
neath to hold the template
the correct distance from the
workpiece edge.
Clamp the ends of t he
template to a pit'Ct' of scrap,
and install a lh"-diameter, W·
deep pattern bit. as shown at
near figM (see SOUTceS), in
Pattern
your router. Adjust the depth- bl<
slOP setting until the bit cuts
14" deep and the bearing rides against
t he sides of the template opening.
After marking the mortise ends on the
workpiece. position the template with
one end of the opening over an end
mark [PhotoAJ . Carefully plunge the bit
into the workpiece ncar the center of the
template opening [Photo Bl. Then cut
the mortise by moving your router
clockwise around the opening [Photo CJ.
with the bearing riding firm ly against
continued on page 86
:v~'
~~
-o.-,~4·· ~
Mortise--
~- Iength
Half the
Stop
BOTTOM VIEW
WOO D mAglUtn" Nov~mber Z007
 <@>

MEASURES
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o Gr<l<lu<l!.d", 1110", 1/8' r, Crtil
~ m........., Weight. oJ t:.s
I ~ SIvd rnoot:Ir.;s • Cui, I..... tle' 0I"Id plywooO
• 51iding Ihumb Ioc~
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VVorksh~ Savvy

the sides of the templiltt' opening.
Vacuum out the debris, and leave the
template clamped in place.
Now square off the mortise corners
uSing a \6" straight chisel or corner
chisel (see Sources). Use the template as
a guide to chisel dead-on 90° cuts
[Photo DJ- Repeat these steps to cut the
remaining mortises on each workpiece.
o -
routing them, here's a way to hide the
mortise edges beneath the lip of a
rabbeted tenon for a clean look. To
start, mark your workpiece to show the
mortise ends and centerline.
Next, install a Forstner bit as wide as
the tenon thickness, minus 14". Then
IX>Sition a drill-press fence so the bit
spur touches the mortise centerline,
and set the drilling depth to Vi".
Drill holes at both mortise ends,
followed by overlapping holes along Its
length [Photo HI. Using a straight chisel,
cut the corners square [Photo 1], and
remove as much of the scalloping along
the edges as possible.
To make the faux tenons, cut a blank
to the desired thickness and Width, and
chamfer the ends, as shown earlier. Set
your fence fur the distance you want
the tenon to extend above the surface
of the mortise piet:e-J4' In this case-
and cut I""" -dt'ep kerfs on both edges
and faces [Photo J]. Because you're not
cutting completely through the
workpiece, it's safe to usc the fence in
combination with a miter gauge.
Now slide the rip fence aside and
attach a stopblock to the miter-gauge
extension to cut off the faux tenon
leaving a IlexlAl" rabbet [Photo KJ . Check
that the tenon fits snugly within the
mortise, then glue it in place . •
Sources
P"Uem router bit, V,,'-diameter x Yl'·long bit
no. 6509, $14.50, call MlCS at 800-533-9198;
mklwoodwor~in9·com.
Corner chlHI , Ray II~ '/,," corner chisel, $56.95. (311
Tools for Working Wood at 800-426-4613;
toolsfofworkingwood.(om.

Now cut the te nons

On the blank you'll use to make your
faux tenons, rout 45 0 chamfers on all
four sides at both ends [Photo EJ,
starting with the edges, followed by the
faces to reduce tear-out.
Next, damp a stopblock to your
tablesaw fence, as shown [Photo FJ, and
adjust the fence to cut your tenons to the
desired length. We made ours l,i"long
for a m()fti~ 1.4" deep. Use a miter-gauge
extension to reduce tear-out (Phol0 G],
and cut the tenons from both ends of
your blank.
Test-fit faux tenons Into the mortises,
and sand them until they're snug. After
you screw together the butt joint on
your prOject, apply glue to the bottom
of the mortise, and insert the faux
tenon, as ~hown onpaxc 84.

Cap drilled mortises

w ith a rabbeted tenon
If you're more comfortable drilling
mortises with a Forstner bit than

86 WOOD m llgui ne Novem~r 2007

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i MAlL 1'0: BI"T",,;h Resca.l\'h Dept. EPH4ffl!i
7800Whi.,pIcAvc,N'w.
Q. How fin a pe rso n (ut ~qUlfC feet. order requcslS at tho:: discOlint.
!. ------ Canton, OH 44767 t
til th bulln2 bill by up 10 F..ndn'inten~ .... od prICe. ..
.- ------------------------ ----_. --. ~.-~ --_ ..._--.----- ---------'
Shop-Proven Products
These woodworking wares passed our shop tria ls
Freud delivers above-the-table bit changes and adjustments
Titanium-top tablesaw proves its mettle against rust
I live In Iowa, where summers are hot,
sticky, and dripping with humidity. So I
find the titanium-nitrite-coated cast-iron
top on Steel City'S 3-hp cabinet-style
tablesaw to be a huge advantage in my
ongoing battle with rust.
To see how the rust-resistant tabletop
compares with untreated cast iron, I
moved this saw next to a new 8" jointer.
Both got through the winter in fine
5hape, but when spring arrived, I began
to see rust on the jointer-and nothing
ss
About our product tests
We lest hurnlledl of tooll and at(~wriel, hut onl~ those thai earn alleast thIN'
star! f()r perfnrmanct makeThefilkl1 CUI anda~pearin thi5section.
I've tx:c>n building a new router table
hut hadn't decided which router to use
in it. Aftt'! testing Freud's FT3000VCE
3'lo-hp plunge router, I knew it was the
one for me. It's the first router to
combine all of the features I want-
electronic variable speed, above-the-
table bit changes, aod precision depth
control-in a plunge router that will
handle ally bit in my shop.
The FT3000VCE delivers ample
power, and the variable-speed control
maintains consistent speed when I plow I money. r got that same level of accuracy
a bit into white oak or maple. Even
though it weighs 13 pounds, this router held work. The scale is ea~y to read,
doesn't feel top-heavy or tippy-like
many 3-hp routers do.
I really like this router for table
routing, though, because I can raise and R3000YC( plunge router
lower the bit without a router lift I like
being able to make bit changes and
height adjustments above the table, but
be prepared: It takes 33 turns of the
wrench to go from bottom to top. With
on the saw. To accelerate testing, r
spritzed water onto the tops of both,
even making a few small puddles, then
let them sit for 24 hours. The result:
rust where the water had been. The rust
spots on the titanium-nitrite top wiped
away with a dean cloth. No such luck
with the jointer; it took a special
cleaner to remove its rust marks.
This rust-inhibitive feature adds $250
to the price of Steel City's regular
cabinet saw (model 35618). Sure, that's
my set up, it was 2S lurns to get the
collet high enough to change hits.
That's a minor nuisance [ can live with,
offset by the tool's advantages.
The depth control proved unbdiev-
ably accurate. With a lJt" straight-
cutting hit installed, I routed a groove
in a white oak board, changing the
height in 1/~4" increments. After each
cut, I measured its depth with a digital
caliper with readings to .U01", and each
time, the depth was right on the
' when using the FTJOOOVCE for hand-
and depth ad justments ale quick and
simple to make.
~Telted by Steve Feeney
Performance
Price 1290
*****
FreLid
800·334-4107; freudtooluom
a lot of money, but to me, it's worth the
peace of mind knowing I don't have to
wax it regularly,
With or without the titanium-nitrite
top, the left-tilting model (35640) is a
supt!rh tahlesaw. It's also avallahle In a
right-tilt model (35630). With the
heaviest and largest trunnions I've seen
on a 10" saw, it's built like a tank. The
large handwheels turn easily and the
stops arc dead-on, with no need for
adiustment. The Biesemeyer-style rip
fence and rails prove durable, accurate,
and easy to adjust.
The throat plate has a red-paint
finish that's dry hut sticky, and It slows
down workpiect's when I push them
through the blade. I replaced it with a
maple zero-clearance plate. (Scott Box
of Steel City said future throat plates
wJll be powder-coated to cut friction.)
~TeJfed by Sob Hunter
10" Hp tabII!5aw, model 15640
Performance ** * * •
Price Sl,600
Model 35618 (regular cast·iron top) 11,350
Steel City Tool Worf15
877-724-8665; steEkitytoo/works.com
WOOD magaZine Nowmoo 2007
Kit r.rovides inexpensive
rou ed designs and inlays
For years I thought it would ~ great to
rout or carve ornate designs or add
intricate inlays to my projects, hut J
never tool the time to learn the
techniques. Milescraft's Design/Inlay
Kit saved me the trouble. With this
easy-to-undcrstand-and-use kit and my
plunge router, I was routing attractive
designs onto surfaces in minutes. I also
used the kit to create ~evera l lnlays and
their pockets and was pleased with how
snugly they fit.
The kit features a two-piece base that
snaps together, creaUng an enclosed
sprocketlike center. You choose a
deSign from the kit's manual, and then
insert one of fouc templates (each with
multiple designs) into the correct
notches, as indicated in the manual.
Finally, using the Induded router bits
and guide bushings, you rout along the
chosen cutout to craft your design, The
guide bushings work only with the
included universal subbase that fits
I#qffiij:la
almost any router. Also inciudoo: a III"
downcut spiral bit and a I;"" V-groove
bit. So you don't ruin a good workpiece,
you'll want to practice on scrap stock
-.-----
.z._ _
MW I .... ""' .... e«oI

until you get the hang of it.
If you prefer to hand-car\le or paint
one of the designs, you can use a
speCial guide bushing and pencil to
simply draw the pattern onto your
Cutting Edge Technology for Woodworkers
Tate a look al our latelt proJect.1t'1 the rewlt of yea" of work, IIltenlng
to woodworlltn IHle you. Ind then building dte wood tool ~ that
you want. d. r"e" tour of ttt. f ..~.1!Id 1ft "'It you think:
.. , ........... /ilM.G., ..... . , . ~

workpiece and then carve it with hand . . ..,. fI.t ..... truo. "''''_0-"," griodlftg
ourfa<~ ... wtlidllO .... tre ~Abrau-
tools or paint it. •
MO '''''' .......1.pMO-
-TeMed IJy Dean Fiene """,.,ful 115 lIP Mol'"

Router OesjgnJ1nl~y Kit, modfl1207

Perlormance
Price

Milescraft
847-683-9200; milesaaft.(om
$40

---
0IIIIbIn prt"CR oM
,~.bI. ""'II .. of 111"'.
IS',)O'. iOrId)S° f",
o:trl .. ~ ..... pi .... 1rotI.
",,!~l' wi ...

89
Greatldeas forYourShop
Right-angle
Router-Table Push Pad
N ot only docs thl~
simple guide kE'ep
stock perfectly
•
-
square to the router fence, it
also supports the back edge
of the routed §tock to
minimize tear-()ut. Plus, it
keeps your hands safely
away from the spinning bit.
10 build It, cut the pieces
to the sizes and shapes
noted on the drawing. Cut
several extra supports so
you can replace them as the
Inside end gets rOuled away.
For a comfortable grip, rout
the edge5 of the handle
with a IA' round-owr.
Screw, but do not glue,
the support to the- baSt'.
Then, !onev.' the handle to
the hase. Sufficiently
countersink the screws
securing the handle to the
base so they don't scratch or
catch on the top of your
router table . •

R:::y.·

HANDLE

'10" round-overs

RIGHT-ANGLE
ROUTER-TABLE PUSH PAD

Find more shop project plan$" at:

woodmagazine.(om/freepians

118 x 1 'Ii' F.H.

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 What's Ahead
A peek inside the December/January issue (o n sa le November 20)
Wood joint torture test 2
Wt made dozens of door and drawer ;oillt~ then
destroyed them, so rou'11 know which ones aff s\longes1.

Drop-leaf table
It seals two as shown above, or up to!>ix with its leav8 up. Turn the legs or buy them
premade. Alld watch for amat(hing hutch in the Mardi Issue.

Presidential
(Din flag
This patriotic case holds
Mix & match modular tabinet system a growing colleCTion of
Combine any of eig~t components to assemble everything from asmall the new (Dins hoooring
bookshelf 10 an erltenainment (enter. (onstryc1ion is super-simple. US. chief l'xec:utivf'S.

li·NliiiM
General-purpose
tablesaw blades Afresh approach
LIn one blade h.Jndle to box joints
all your ripping and Here'satwist on ttle
crosKuTting tasksl We traditiolkli tlOx-joint jig.
tested 30 of the b~t It enabl~ you 10 (I.It
I 4{l-tooth 10" blades in intmhangeablf box
search of the perfea sides for easy assembly,
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Powo'lTl3tiG lin/!
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rn ~ machirrefy. CiRl.
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RIKON POWER TOOLS Manu!OCll.lt'S ~t\'
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Ixnj strY"lglh. walllfP-Ot.:t, tor>glll' operHIL'19rrHy lme.
1\1& 6o:osl Wood GI"" Ever! Circ. No. 24.
SYSTU THRl:E RaSlNS f'nImuTI ~ wid
008~ Crrcl. No. t t 1.
!I/II, ....... CuIIIIIg TaaII
CARTER PRODUCTS COMPANY, tHC. Accul1gtlt
Bandsaw BOlae& -lengtn 72" to 136", widthS 1/8" In
t- Circle No. 17'.
UDLII AMf.fUCA l...argfiosl ~of~
~t)', Aroeocan·maoe route- bits + loo'tl 01 tnq.Je
a:;ces.·,or;e" Clrct. No. '.3.
I'LllXctn Carving t<Xlls tor ~ neoo, elrel.
No.10!!.
FORNi.T MFO. CO ., INC. T'll QlIOI'ly tlI9cI8s:nl
dados tor an !AIm smooth fwd}, Clrc" N•• 208.
FIIIIIUD !lAW auau TM 48·pif91:1 catalog
IiustnttM the features and benefits !or aI Freu::I saw
btatJes, Circle No. 21 ••
I'RIiiUD ROUnR BITS Nt FrfUJ rt1A. bits am
r8Pt~ed rt thiS 54·page catalog, irldI.o:I~ more than
130 ~ hits!W1d se!s. C lrde No. 232-
HUNT...' TOOL CO. f\k) girdhg <)' ~ 01 the
1001. jus1IlY~_ Circle No. 234.
INFINrrY' CUTTING TOOLS Premium qUlllity rouler
biI""~ mape.- OJt1et11. ~ blades, ~')oi'1ter
kroY9s.. Circle No . 238.
IILea WOODWORKING 8es! ~ hugIIl!OlIi::d>on.
low prlO&S. supEW1O( ser.oice. Nee SIJIwinq! CIrcle
No. 248.
WOODUNII USA Router talc'eS. routers, router
~.CifIo~. ~t;l.ai;ieSand more. Clrole No. 310.
WOODRAT JOio1til'l9 /TIeId'Iif'ol!'!, make i1Irj~. aC:o.r.l.te
1!W"d1es\ Clre" Mo. 31 •.
_ ......... Vldlll
AMDUCAN FURHITUAil DIiSlQN CO. 150 ct.
Arll&ric'.8'!1 best lumcure plws. <;Ct'll(J(ehe<l/.Wf!
iOsIruclion !JI.io$. Q/.:al'lg. Clrele No. 330.
........ HMDWAM .....CIALTJU CATALOG
,-,cto. ~ ~ ~ I'hj hiWO-Io>-/hj ~e,
Clre" No. 401.
U-BILD WooDWORKlNQ PLANS snce 1948!
Ho.u!r9ds Of M·sa. pIor.s. dowrlIoadable pIarls, bY<
prjCt;S, Clrcl. No. 438.
WOODCltAl'Tl'LAHS.CQM ~ pD)S
<Yl(I pallams 0181 Vllrietoes lor all st<iIlM'IIe, Clrel.
No • ....,.
ARMOR CRAI'TS Ft.il·size pIa.r$ to build ClIId~,
~ hOOlaS, ~ ana J'l)('ft. MaO ~ 8rxI
wood (:fan~, Clre" Mo. eoe.
,... BEALL TOOL COMPANY ,,-",1M! nrtoons
IIY Ihcp problems: wood thr&!!o:I~lg. tufIng,\ 1TlOI'e.
Clrele No. an.
CHERRY TAR. TOV. Plans, pa1s kils. do:::I<.s, •....oed
P*ts. ~ parts a<ld s...ppIES CIn>1e No. H3.
!lNZZLV INDUS'IWAL, INC. 12.00) wOOdworkir'9
ttndfl~~, toolsand~­
..rbootitJI8 ~ Clre" No. a83.
100 WOOd MqIZlINlIfIlWlllrbtf 2001
HARTVILU TOOL CATALOG ClJaiiIy ~
tooI$ and suppIIae Ed \he bsst Pf1ceri IroJld Clrel.
No.5H.
KLlNQSPOR't WOODWORKIINQ SHOP Sood
to::!3'y tor yoo. .. /roe copy and roo..;.,9 $5 011 VOU" Jir:>l
pU'd>aoo. Circle No. a2 ••
MLC. WOODWORKING Bes: <lJtIitY. t'ug& se/of)CIlOO.
low pra.... eupemr serW;e. Frae ShIpprogI Clrele
No. 652.
ROCkLliR WooDWORKINO & HARDWAM 0...
premum tool5 make ~iP9 effioieot arlC1
~,FRfF Calalog. CIRI. No. a81 .
WOODCRAJlT MJPPLY CORP. 15.COO lop o..er
qrnliry ~ loots. ~. !IIld ao::es.sorIes.
Clrele No. 700.
WOODWORKIIill HARDWAM OYer B.M ~1I<T1lI
stocl<.ed, Largest seIectico 01 ~ hardwin.
Lc:m-etll pricw. Clrele No. 113.
..... TaaII, .... & CI• •
ADJUSTAiIU: CUoN;P COMPANY ~taW!
Cbnp COmp.ly ~lIlI6 a fl.t hi 01
~ cIamp:!;, miler!laW!l and YisEoe, Circle
ND.133.
IlRlDOIii CITY TQOI. WORKS Servi)g W~
\NotIr.t.Irde ior 0vEI-:<'4 YeiWS! Clrele No. 148.
PlNIi TOOL JOURNAL ~ r«oa \oCII!l-,
looI!l'IaI<aS. I'dor)', revi!M's. teIepho19 auction. tool
~ Ine 01 UO Ni€&lo! Cirele No. 772-
GENERAL TOot. a·z POCK" HOla oliO KIT
Fea!1Jfoo ltllliO! E· Z pocI<91 hole j::linIs Clrele No. 185.
JAPAN WOODWOAUR Secmts 01 batter quaity
WQOdworki1g, Two-yea- !luMcnp:icn cataloQ. Clrele
He. 1M.
1Utl:0 TOOL CO. YI::u" ooa slClj:l stoop fa e-.~
Por.:l'£IH';cww rOOloo Circle No. 1102.
LI.E VA!.LIIY TOOLS Fine quality hard tcd!l and
~.ce, Wide seec:ion oIlrique and ~-lo·llld
WCJOd'wof~ ~ems. accessor_ and tot*i. CInIHo
No. 803.
DOWli:LMAX .lOINT.MAKlNO SV.Tl.M ~
o;reates ;:::.nts wtoch _ QlIick. EllIS)', IICO.I<ate. and
strong, Clrele No. 8:28.
TOOLS"OR WORKING WOOD OJ( IOO--pag!l
calaklg hM scmo 01 tho fJ'Icsl ~ too'S
~ !oday. Circle No. UO.
TRADITIONAL WOODWORKaR CATALOG f-roo
80 page catalog 1Or~. ~ and
wooarS<Tl8!l. C-!role No. 8 :U.
M.L. CONDON COMPANY Sngie. CCI'1VeIlierrt $CJlJtCC
ior~, pIyM:lod. n~ custcm
CIrc.. No .......
IHTDtNIiTLUMUA.COM Domesti<::/Exob::-
1-lamwnocl~. mlfwnno:. ~ and decl(ng.
Clrol. No. 848.
STaYIii H. WALL LUMBER CO. Q,alily hard'woods,
~. m<OIlC UTrb9r ShIp UPS/motor '-eigh!.
~ priCeS. Ctrcle No. aee.
WOODWORURS SOURCa f~5 from
8IOl.nd tho WOIIO. Cln:le No. 8e ••
.........
MARC ADAMS KHOOL Of WOODWORIOHO
o.-t.- 125 SU'm"IEIII\aIlc!s·on WIXk8hops woth the best
flstrucIor!l 01 fllOdOOl lima. Circle No. 81e.
Request FREE product Intonnadon today, Log on to www.WODDWorkersCent8r.com
WOODCRAPT Rn'AlL frRAHCHIa a o..n
'IIIoocbatt SlOl9 - tr~ oIIered ior stores 1ICf0ll6
!hi! COtXIlry, Clrele No. 824.
DIITAlL.O PLAY .vaT.... Wooden SO\oi'qlElls 8N::l
~ eq~ tor tI'.e~, Free calWOg.
Clrele Mo. -sa.
KLOCKIT The ~ ~ oj dodc-!l'I1tkirlg
S\.JPPI;es lew- Coler 35 ~ Clre" No. 873.
MUSlCMAKUt'l KITS Kn~. ~, !'. '"~ tor
Jl~ boouffIJ acoustic fistn..mf!flIS. Circle No. 8711.
"NN STA'" fNDUlTRl.S ~!IU~ of
Tl.nll'9 P,oo..cts. Pen ktts. P'c:;ecl, IrlIstl8s and more.
Clre. No. 1181.
PYQMY BOATI
evt. ND. 183.
AlRWARIi AMaAICAIUTTU GIANT LADOERS
Dt$bit;U;or 01 3.\01 $s!ely~. TrtAJ Altsheids 8-
utileGlanll.ac!oJ(n. Clrde No. 1068.
APOLLO IPRAYERS TURBI . . . .V.TIIMS O.A1lloly
oon1ld. ~rg and OUlar:ilty, Clrcl. No. 10f11.
AZTEC .T..... CORP. Qrllllity pr9-.ngi.~ arcll--
style steel buildiflOll allhe iow86I oost &nywtlefe, Clrele
No. 10f14.
caHTRAL BOIL.'" aass.c WOOd Mrnaces - CIoWI.
saMJ . eIIir..ian! hM! br yDl.l' home Clrele No. 110e1.
DAKOTA ALaRY, INC. M aIeI1 S(U)OS fllhe house
when sorneorOil .UIIrlI too 00vv. Clrel. No. 11211.
II'tON. .R .TUL . ' 0., LTD. ArCf'l Slw~,
ror'lt!Sl Cuailty X·Yeer IMYrant~. ShcEIl900. Clrele
No.n...
AADlANT fLOOR COMPANY FIocW'III-tsamg
::'''ysI~. man.rtact\.Ke 6fId sale ICf tne [XV
CfrcIeoND.1301 .
arULMASru. IUILDINOS Hfg'tesl CNaily Steel
8uila1'.g:>. D,H' Youroof easy COOSIruChGfi. Frue
ColakJQ. Clrel. ;;,;',;'-;c"'''''_____
No",,';;..
_TaaII
CARVEWRlOHT WOODWORKINQ svn••
COmput&r norrtloled car.;ng mactiOO. Clrele
No. 1483.
COOK'S SAW MPG., L.L.C. f>ortab\e sawmlls.
Edgers. S'l.'trpeoers. Barld BIaOO&., FfM cati'lk:g, Vidilo
availat>e. Clrele No. 1...0.
DRlU DOCTOfIi Sharpen ~ d\A and i:lroI\8l <JtI
tots With The [)rj DoctOf. CIre.. No. 1511 .
'aiN ~WlA TOOLS NEW ""-",·MooW'-----u-.l too/,
(llfN-I attocl'I"n9!l\s. !hoc.:vonds 01 prqe.cts, Clre"
NO. 1&20.
mi~ 1Tl!:I!1}. .. MUD POWSR TOOLS If}-page cataklg illust'ilIe6
~ pO-.-- tools with 1tadtiorlaI fl8l.>d (JJIIIiTy.
Clrele No. 1532.
aENaRAL, aENaRA1INT.RHATtoNAL AND
aXCALI.UA BY O'NERAL INTaRNATIONAL A
oompletll Ir1e of qwjl,. woortworj.j{)g mechnery II-
~ ClRle No. 1M2.
........
QRANBEAO tNTEANATIONAL AIa<!karI Saw I"'"
chain saw ~ Moos 1"1 USA Circle
.lET SUNRSAW Casl: Or-oo whgs. sIdrlg cmsoo.A:
t:l0Ie. lTiCr'O'aa,uet f6nce, Tolaly «'d0600 cai;;joeI
Circle No. 18U.
PENN nAT.lNDUSTRIU AwfW·...n--,;ng ctJsI
OOIIocl1O'l . CoDoc1orS.. C~. ~ and more
eire .. No.1.U.
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Banish bad band saw vibes
. I just bought it '4~ bandsaw
Q . that works beautifully and is
accurate, but it has a vibration-a
pulse every half-second or so. The
pulleys line up correctly and the belt
is tight, so I pushed a wooden wedge
between the motor and the saw to
tension the belt. That stopped the
vibration, but did I do something
horrible lilat will cause problems:
down the toad?
-Cary Chopman, Hemet, Calif.
the motor bearings, Cary, so you'll need
another solution.
Belts can develop a kink from being
tightly coiled in the saw's shipping
carton, lust as they can from being left
looped around a small pulley wheel for
long periodS. Because it's a new saw,
you could solve the problem by writing
the manufacturer for a replacement
belt. But if the problem returns, switch
to a link belt, like the one shown at
fight, that doesn't develop such kinks
when left in one position. (Order li nk
To install it, just loosen the motoI-
mounting bracket to remove the old
belt. Then shorten the link belt to equal
the length of the original belt. Match
the direction of travel stamped on the
belt links, shown at bottom, to the
direction the saw pulleys turn, and
tension the belt according to the saw
manufacturer's instructions . •

A•
belt no. 52233, $7.39 per foot, from
Horrible? ~o, but tensioning the Rockier WoodworkIng and Hardware,
• belt with that wedge could stress 800-279-4441 or rockler.com.)

Arrows
show the

98 WOOD magulne NoverT'obef 2007

 "ONE CLEAR WINNER" - Fine Woodworking feb 2007

WORLD'S BEST ROUTERS.

A bold statem@ntbutwetnink I

c - u.... , , -................ ...... _ _ .

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One simple jig.

PUUIIADI!,
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MlrmrCoat is sp(lClalty rOHr~Lated \0 create \Iklssy. ttigh buM! fssm
surtaoos on baf'l>. counters and la~et1)ps. Pour a per1ect durabht,
smootll, glOSSY tinish on many surfaces such as wood, cemmics,
plaster and ma~.
MirrorCoal is pourable, selHe....hng, scratcf1 and stain resistaflt as
well as alcohol alld water proof

SYSTEfIITIIH
Cr..n ....,11

Circle No_ 661

Co"'6o:n~1Ir

--_.............
Circle No 111
~-
 Ask WOOD
ORGANIZE YOUR TOOLS
Watts the difference?
TEELSTORAGE
Q . I purchased a used
. tablesaw that has the o p -
tion to wire for e ither 11S or
It
230 volb. My landlord, who pays
the electric bill, says that wir-
Ing It for 230 volts will use m o re
electricity. What are the pros
and cons for either voltage?
-Rick Espana, Cherry Valley, Colif.

A• Your tablesaw's motor uses t he

• same a mount of electricity
(measurt!d tn watts) regardless of the
voltage, Rick. If you look at the plate on
your saw's motor, similar to the one
lx/ow, you' ll see that as the voltage
doubles, the saw uses ha lf as m any amps.
For example, this cont ractor-style saw
drops from 18 to 9 amps as the voltage
doubles. Eit her way you multiply the
comblnallons-115 volts times 18 amps
or 230 volts t imes 9 amps-thc power
consumption remains 2,070 watts.
So why wire for 230 volts? Look at
those amp numbers again. If you're
wallcontrol.com pulling 18 amps on a 20-amp circuit,
(770)-723-1251 there's the chance of tripping a circuit
hreaker if your saw encounters an
Corde No. 2100
especially heavy load, or at startup, when
It draws a brief surge of power. By
sw itching to 230 volts, you relieve that
stra in o n the circuit, dOing you and your
Enjoy All the Creature Comforts landlord a favor.
If your saw needs an extension cord
with Radiant Floor Heating .'i0' or longer, that's another reason to opt
for 230 volts. The higher voltage encoun·
ters less resista nce within the cord,
GEO HERMAL delivering more power to your saw,
As fo r cons, a 230-volt outlet should be
wired by a profeSSional, and the breaker
box may not have space to expand.

Plates attached to power tool motors w ill tell

yo u your wi ri ng opt ions, Thi$ ta ble saw m otor
u~e$18 amp s for 11S-yolt curre nt or 9 iIImps
for 230·yolt curre nt .
colltinued 011 page 98

WOOD m a g u lnl! ~r 2007

 Forrest Blades
Experienced woodwor'Kers
know that Forrest blades are
ideal for remodeling high-(lnd
krtchens and baths.
Forrest blades deliver smooth,
quiet cuts without splintering,
scratching, ortearouts. Our
proprietary manufacturing
process, hand straightening, and
unique grade of C-4 micrograin
carbide are perfect for cabinets,
counlertops, and floorfng. In
fact, indeper1doot tests rate us
~1 for rip cuts and crosscuts.
Order from any Forrest dealer IX
"Your blades are without retailer, ooline, or by calling direct-
question the bast by miles, ty, Our blades are manufactured
and I have tri6ci them ail, n in the U.SA and backed by our
Bob Jensen, Fridley, MN 3O-day, money-bec/I. guarantee.

--,...
Forrest Quality Shows
Duraline Hi-AT -Great for
cutting two-sided veneers and .... _CIIoIot .. _
low pressure laminates,
Through, hall-blind, ~iding dovetitil~ and OO~ joinK New single Woodworker II -Best rated, www.ForrestBIades.com
paIS llalH)Hnd doyetail~! Includt'~ bit~, guidebush, DVD, etc. 1-800-733-7111
Shown with Va<uum & Router Support,
all-p.JI'po5e blade for rips and
(In NJ, call 973-473-5236)
lelghJlge.com
800-661~n
1=1::-4. crosscuts.

C"cie No, 206

"QuaMl' loots and ,\uIJPlies for the Woodworker"

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1,000'. OF PRODUCTS AVAILABLE ONLINE
 Ask WOOD
FALL CLAMP SALE Joinery as art
Q. While trying to salvage a
• canva~ stretctling frame ttlat
m ust be more than 100 years old, I
encountered a miter joint I've never
seen before. What is it called 7
-Roy Gaines. Toccoa, Ga.

A . One of our joinery sources

• True Parallel Heads provide reliable
uniform pressure across II'le full length of the
clamp sur/ace
• Durable Tool SleeI Rail foc years 01 reliable
selVioo
• Bu~ll n Clamp Pad eliminates damage 10
materials
• Reversible head kif push/pull actiorl
• BUIlt io fti,p-down damp stand &taballzes for
multiple damp applications
PC-1S . lS· Capacity...................... $25.95
P(·27 . 27" Capa cit~. "."" . " .. ".. ",,.$27 .95
pe·J9 . 39" (a patit~..... " .. ''' .. ".".,,$32.9S
PC-S9 . 59" Capacity...,,,",, ............ $3S.9S
6pc Cabinet Set
• referred to a similar joint as a
mitered mortise-and-tcnon, ROy, or you
could call it a twin mttered bridle joint.
Bu t the compan}' that pioneered It, Tara
Materials, calls it an Interlocking
tongue-and-groove joint. The joint was
developed in 1875 by founder E.H.
Friedrichs for the company's canvas-
stretching frames. (It even was illus-
trated In a 1907 Frcdrlx catalog shown
be/ow.)
roday's version, shown at buttom,
hasn't changed much from the original.
The tongues in both piece> slide into
corresponding slots, creating a frame
that resists torquing out of shape from
the stress of stretched canvas. The joint
also prOVides plenty of surface grain for
a solid glue bond, unlike a simple,
unrein forced mitered fram!!, with Its
end-grain gluing surfaces.

~,

~ino(.lrt>ldl
lipt»d bit coI~
'-aIiIra 66 carrMly
profileS In I hilty iaDeIfd • 3-1/4" oge e raised panel
wooden caSt. Th. ptrfae\
H t to liar! Of complt!e • 2-plece ogee rail & stile
....,ry wood'!lorlltl1l • reversible g l ue joint
collection 01 bits. • drawer lock

95 '~NLY $1 09
89 .
:J~E~e~W~L~.2~O~2~D-1 :
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112" Shank
95

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'w.ltlr .:Ir. •Ir'.:I/oI'.-..-... .... _ _ ...... Tho

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WL-2002-7 : 112" Shank

94 WOOD mag.nin e NcwMlbtr 2007

Circl6 No. 31 0
 DOWELMAX
PReCISION ENGINEERED JOINING SYSTEM

GOLD MEDAl WINNER AT THE

TOMORROW'S WORLD SCIENCE FAIR, LONOON, ENGLAND
We were wrong, A mulli dowel joinl is
not as strong as a mortise and tenon ...
IT IS STRONGER. Log on 10 www.dowelmax.com
10 see videos of Ihe new

Now available in metric.

For more inf{)(mation, or to order call 1.Sn .986.9400
or log on ID www.dowelmax.com
Clrdo No. 825

Squirrel-Tail Palm Planes

These compact, inveS1ment-cast steel planes, with enlarged
SQuirrel-tail hafldles, are ideally sized for working on small projects
and in tight spaces. The sole is 3 Jfe" long. Made in Canada.
Until December 24,2007, we are offering our new palm
planes at a special price for the pair. Alter thIs date,
the planes will no lanoer be available as a pair.
AalPalmPlane 15Pl 0.10 $36.00
Curved Palm Plane 15P10.20 542.00
Pair of Palm Planlls 15P10.50 $65.00
~.-.:IN .'I: ~ IP:.rr;o_

Curved plane
(No, 100"1

To order these palm planes,

01 to request our 'ree
The (>.n'lI(I palm plane 300-page woodworking
~. rtu'IOe(ll'rW)OJn_ tools catalog. call or visit
The scM is ranIed
iG losdo! us online.

30
l •
1-800-683-8170
www.leevalley.com
YEARS
~

4l.eev..11ey i LeeValley& vet<.ft:as®

Circle No 1&49
Ask WOOD
-
Ril il bit Stile bit
Divide rail and stile cuts for easier joints
Q . I've seen two router·bit
. options for making rail-and-
stile Joints: matching bit sets and a
single combination bit. It seems to
me that the matching sets are the
bener way to go. Any thoughts?
-Greg Perlberg. Chantilly. Va.
A•
We favor the two-bit method,
e too, Greg. With two-bit sets, you
make both cuts with the parts face-
down on the router table. When you
rout all the piece5 face-down, you can
sand out minor stock thickness differ-
Choose food-safe wood for
cutting boards
Q . I'm going to make some cut-
. ting boards, but I'm not sure
which woods ale food-safe_ What
can I use, and what shouldn't I use?
-Jessy McKenzie, St. Joseph,
92
HAVE A QUESTION?
For an answer to your woodworking que~ljon, write 10 ASK
WOOD, 1716 Locust St., L.S-ll1. DesMolnes. IA 50309·3023,
or e-mail usat iiskwood!ii.WoodmagillZimf .com. For immediate
feedbac k from your fellow woodwo rkers, post your questions on
one of our woodworking forums at woodmagazine.(om/forums.
- Nail down the best brad size
vs.
Co mb in, tiol'l bit
ences from the back, leaVing the front
profile unaffected.
With a combination bit, though, you
rout one profile face-down and the
other face-up, Reversing the workpiece
orientation this way may require you to
sand out stock thickness differences
from the front, throwing off the profile
at the jOints.
Also, with a combination bit like the
one shown above, you'll need to take
special care to keep hands away from
the exposed upper portion of the bit
when using the stile-cutting ~tion.
A• For cutting boards that will hi'
• used daily, Jess, stick with tight-
grained domestic hardwoods, especially
maple, birch, and beech. The small
porcs on these dense hardwoods leave
fewer hiding places for foodborne
bactelia than an open-grained wood,
such as red oak (Bamboo, actually a
grass, offels another safe option.)
Lighter wood colors also Walk better
than walnut, purplchcart, or other dark
woods, whele the color can leach out
when wet. That's espeCially true if you
use highly diluted chlorine blt'ach to
Minn. sanitize your wood cutting boards.
Q . I'm looking at buying a 15- or
• 16-gaugeflnlsh nailer for my
shop. From my experience, l8-ga uge
brads tend to follow the grain and
blowout the side. Would 16-gauge
nails act the same?
-Ronald Seto, VOfK/eave, Miss.
A• All three nail gauges can be
• deflected by grain, Ronald.
Instead, choose your nailer and nail
length to suit what you're building and
the materials you use.
'lb attach wide oak crown molding to
a large project or in a room, use a 15- or
16-gauge nailer for added holding
power. The tradeoff: You have to putty
larger holes from the 15- and 16-gauge
nailers compared to an 18-gauge nailer.
For medium-size or tabletop projects,
use an I8-gauge nailer or a 23-gauge
pin naller for even less puttying.
To lessen the chance of blow-out,
choose the nailiength that penetrates
the top piece of wood and extends no
deeper than 1· Into the piece below. So
for nailing ¥.!"-thick stock like that
I shown below, choose a nail no longer
than lW. For safety'S sake, even wIth
shorter nails, never grip the wood with
your fingers on either side of the nail's
intended path.
:~!~,:,"L
deflect
\
nails.
! Ouch! Blow-outs can deliver a painful
su rpr ise to fi ngers gr ippi ng the sid es of t he
verti(al board.
continued on page 94
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