PRODUCTION FILE HERSCHEL GARMENT

Vera Agterberg
M1C

INDEX
Herschel Garment


Technical drawing


Style sheet



How to measure



Technical style specification

General style specification

Sequences of operations


Work description



Cost price calculation


Correlation of the garment

Production system and transport system
Product line



Lead time




Material overview

Page 4-5
Page 6 - 7
Page 8
Page 9 - 10
Page 11 - 13
Page 14 - 15
Page 16
Page 17 - 22
Page 23 - 24
Page 25 - 26
Page 27
Page 28
Page 29
Page 30 - 31

HERSCHEL GARMENT
Herschel garment is a brand that has been developed out of the
bagbrand : herschel supply co. The collection weve designed is a
collection with a unique design. The designs are developed with
prints like woldmaps and armyprints. The collection is created for
the bright trendy man who likes to live in the city, but also wants to
escape to the nature at its time. We created some strong corevalues
for herschel garment which will connect the consumer with our
brand.
The core values of herschel garment are nostalgic, timeless,
urban/outdoor and funtional mixed with fashionable. The collection
for ss16 is the first collection ever made by herschel garment. It is
very important to set a strong brandidentity, and we made it
happen.

The product which ive produced and processed for ss16 is a lose fit
weave shirt with rolled sleeves. The shirt is a perfect combination of
timeless and fashionable. Due to the elasthan in the weave, is it
comfortable to wear.
The woldmapfabric on the frontpanel is inpired by a raincoat in
combination with a pocket. The trims i used are made out of wood
and gives the link to nostalgia.

- just go

TECHNICAL DRAWING

Number
1.

Seamsymbol
3.01.01

Number

Seamsymbol

4.

6.03.01

2.

3.

6.03.01

8.19.01

5.

06.04.05

6.

6.02.01

STYLE SHEET

STYLE SHEET
Stylenumber: 006-03-16

Seizoen: SS16
Technical drawing

Gender: Man

FABRIC A:
Plain weave blue, piece dyed
23% VI, 73% PES, 4% EL

Detail Wooden Button

FABRIC B:
Plain weave Worldmap, yarn dyed upon printed
100% CO
FABRIC A

Yarn information:
Color nr 119
100% PES
Yarn thickness 120

FABRIC B

Lace: -

Size label:

Button: Wooden button

Bartecks: -

Fancy label:

Zipper: -

Eyelets: -

Print: Worldmap

HOW TO MEASURE

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.

Size spec. In centimeters

Across Shoulder Width (seam to seam)
Neck Opening width
Across Front Width at half armhole
Chest Width at armhole/scye
Waist Width
Hem Width
Armhole width
Armrol
Armrolholder width
Armrolholder length
Length worldmapfabric front
Width worldmapfabric front
Width worldmapfabric
Sleeve Opening
Centre front length
Single shoulder length
Length worldmapfabric back
Overarm sleeve length
Centre Back Length
Side seam length
Across Back width at half armhole
Neckseam

Proto/s
44 cm
17,5 cm
37,5 cm
50 cm
49 cm
52 cm
23 cm
6 cm
3 cm
19 cm
17 cm
16,5 cm
16,5 cm
14 cm
65 cm
13,5 cm
7 cm
64 cm
74,5 cm
45,5 cm
38,5 cm
1 cm

Tolerance
1 cm
1 cm
1 cm
1 cm
1 cm
1 cm
1 cm
3 cm
1 cm
1 cm
1 cm
1 cm
1 cm
3 cm
3 cm
2 cm
1 cm
1 cm
3 cm
1 cm
1 cm
4 cm

BACK

17.

FRONT
16.

22

2.
1.

7.

21.

18.

3.
11
4.
12.

20.

19.

10

8.

13.

15.
5.

9.

14.

6.

10

TECHNICAL STYLE SHEET

Article: Sweater

Style number: 003

Collection: SS16

Target group: M an

Label: Herschel Garment

Features:
W ooden buttons








Nr.

01

02

03

Size specification

Chest width

Waist width

Hem width

46

49,5 cm

48 cm

48

50 cm

49 cm

50

50,5 cm

50 cm

52

51 cm

51 cm

51 cm

52 cm

53 cm

54 cm
11


04

05

Neck to neck point

Centre back length

06

07

08


09



10



11

12

13



14

15

16

17 cm

17,5 cm

18 cm

18,5 cm

73,5 cm

74,5 cm

75,5 cm

76,5 cm

Centre front length

Sleeve length

Shoulder point to shoulder point

Neck drop

64 cm

63 cm

41 cm

8 cm

65 cm

64 cm

42 cm

9 cm

66 cm

65 cm

43 cm

10 cm

67 cm

66 cm

44 cm

11 cm

Single shoulder length

12,5 cm

13,5 cm

14,5 cm

15,5 cm

Armhole width


Sleeve opening

22 cm

23 cm

24 cm

25 cm

13,5 cm

14 cm

14,5 cm

15 cm

Across Back width at half armhole

Special measurements

Worldmap length front

Worldmap width at half armhole

Worldmap length back

37,5 cm

38,5 cm

39,5 cm

40,5 cm

32 cm

18,5 cm

6 cm

33 cm

19,5 cm

7 cm

34 cm

20,5 cm

8 cm

35 cm

21,5 cm

9 cm

12

Seams

Stitch type

16

Closing seams

Lock stitch

17

Top / Fancy stitching

18

Bottom seam

Lock stitch

19

Buttonholes

Lock stitch

Lock stitch

st/cm

Seam allowance

Needle type / nr

3 st/cm

1 cm

90

Yarn
type / nr
120

3 st/cm

0,1 cm

90

120

3 st/cm

3 cm

90

120

15 st/cm

0,5 cm

90

120

REMARKS


Terms of delivery
Garments must be folded in a polybag into a flat pack by road.
Each package must contain 25 garments.

13

GENERAL STYLE SPECIFICATION

Season

Division
Colour

Blue

Cost price excl. vat

14,45
46
48
335
400
pieces
pieces

SS16

Man

Fabric
Plain
weave

50
350
pieces

Style nr.
006-03-16
52
300
pieces

Date
16 June 2015

Body Lining: -

Contrast fabric: W orldmap

Trimmings: W ooden buttons

Others

Buttons: 6 wooden buttons

Zippers: -
Brand label: 1
Wash & Care label: 2 satin

Fabric Quality Research:

Shell fabric composition:

Size label: 1

Topstitching: contrast/ ton sur ton

Closing yarn: contrast/ ton sur ton

Shell fabric: Vi/Pes/El
Contrast fabric: Co
23% Viscose
73% Polyester
4% Elasthan
14


Contrast fabric composition:

100% CO

Lining composition: 100% PES

Actual fabric width: 1,50 meter

Interlining: woven

Wash & Care label:

Fabric consumption: 355 gr

Changes: -

15

SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS

02. Seam worldmapparts together



03. Set buttonholes in worldmappart

04. Attach worldmappart at the neckopening















06. Set button in sleeves










07. Set buttonhole in sleevestand









08. Topstitch sleevestand in sleeves









09. Hem sleeves

01. Close right shoulderseam

05. Hem neckopening









10. Set sleeves

11. Set buttons at back

12. Close side- and underarm seams

13. Hem bottom

14. Control

16

WORK DESCRIPTION

PATTERNNUMBER: Toronto
FRONT

BACK

SAM

Operation

Seam

Machine type

symbol
1.

45

1-needle lockstitch

Sewing flap of two pieces of material

(Worldmapfabric)

Stitch
type
301

Attachment

17

SAM

Operation

Seam

Stitch
type

Machine type

symbol
2.

15

Turn flaps

Quickturner

Attachment

(Worldmapfabric)

3.

10

Press flaps
(Worldmapfabric)

Iron

4.

5.

10 +
40

Making buttonholes in flap

(Worldmapfabric)

15

Rolled hem bottom front panel

Buttonhole (lingerie)

304

1-needle lockstitch

301

6.

15

Rolled hem bottom back panel

1-needle lockstitch

301

18

SAM

Operation

Seam

Machine type

symbol
7.

8.

50

20

Stitch front panel to back panel at

the shoulder seams

Overlock shoulder seams

40

Sewing buttons with automatic

machine at back panel

Attachment

1-needle lockstitch

301

3-threads overlock

504

Button-attatch
machine

101

1-needle lockstitch

301

9.

Stitch
type

10. 60

Rolled hem sleeves

19

SAM

Operation

Seam

Stitch
type

Machine type

symbol
11. 20

Folding sleeve straps

Iron

Attachment

12. 10 +

Sewing sleeve straps

1-needle lockstitch

301

20

13. 10

Topstitch sleevestrap to sleeves

1-needle lockstitch

301

Buttonhole (lingerie)

304

Button-attatch
machine

101

14. 10 +

Making buttonhole in sleevestraps

20

15. 20

Sewing buttons with automatic

machine at sleeves

20

SAM

Operation

Seam

Machine type

symbol
16. 10 +

30

Set bies in neck together with

worldmapfabric

1.

Stitch
type

Attachment

1-needle lockstitch

301

1-needle lockstitch

301

3-threads overlock

504

1-needle lockstitch

301

3-threads overlock

504

2.

17. 40

Set right sleeve with lockstitch

18. 20

Overlock right sleeve seam

19. 50

20. 20

Set left sleeve together with

worldmapfabric with lockstitch

Overlock left sleeve seam

21

SAM

Operation

Seam

Machine type

symbol
21. 100

22. 20

Close side-arm and underarm seam

with lockstitch

Stitch
type

Attachment

1-needle lockstitch

301

3-threads overlock

504

Overlock closed sidearm and

underarm seam

TOTAL

675 SAM

22

Cost price calculation

BASED PRE-CALC. FORM : WHOLESALE HERSCHEL GARMENT

style
article number
description

Toronto
006-03-2016
Lose fit shirt

prod country
plan quantity
date

Description

FABRIC 1
FABRIC 2

Buttons
Overlock yarn
Sewing yarn
Topstich yarn
Brandlabel
Care label
Size label
Hangtag
Poly bag

Width

Quantity

Unit

Turkey
1000
22-06-15

Unit price

Surcharge

Costs

150 cm

1,20

10,00

100%

12,00

50 cm

0,30

8,00

100%

2,40

pc

0,20

100%

1,20

Amann Saba 120

100m

0,09

100%

0,18

Amann Saba 120

100 m

0,09

100%

0,63

Amann Saba 120

100 m

0,14

100%

0,04

pc

0,10

100%

0,10

pc

0,05

100%

0,10

pc

0,05

100%

0,05

pc

0,12

100%

0,12

pc

0,05

100%

0,05

16,87

16,14

100%

16,14

pc

1,60

100%

1,60

2,80

2,80

400,00

0,80

Green/grey weave
Worldmap
Wooden buttons

COMPONENTS

C.M.T. ****

Print
Treatments
(Proto) sample(s)

damage

price/pc in =

23

Patterning/grading

COSTPRICE

Reconditioning
Transport
Handling central warehouse
Freight incl. custom duties
Picking charge

LOGISTICS

5%

2,16

45,28

45%

20,38

TOTAL

65,66

21%

79,45

250%

164,15

119,95

incl 21 % V.A.T.

SUB TOTAL

BUYING AGENCY

TOTAL

PROFIT MARGIN

WHOLESALE PRICE EXCL. BTW

WHOLESALE PRICE INCL. BTW

RETAIL PRICE

SUGGESTED RETAIL

**** CMT

C = 10%
SAM = 675

75% EFFICIENCY
1,63 P/U TURKEY

0,75

40,46

price/pc in =

1,00

1,00

price/pc in =

0,90

0,90

0,27

0,27

0,41

0,41

0,09

0,09

price/pc in =

675 + 6,75 (10% C) = 681,75 SAM

681,75 * ( 1/75) = 9,09
9,09 * 1,63 = 16,14

2,25

2,67

43,13

24

CORRELATION OF THE GARMENT

PRODUCTION SHIFT HOURS = 8 HOURS OR
TARGET =
480 MINUTES
1000
Opr. No.
Description

PLAN ON EFFICIENCY = 70%

Machine type

SAM

No. Of Calculated M/C

Roundoff
machine No.

1-needle lockstitch

0,45

1.3

Quickturner

0,15

0.4

Iron

0,10

0.3

Buttonhole (lingerie)

0,5

1.5

Sewing flap of two pieces of

material
(Worldmapfabric)
Turn flaps
(Worldmapfabric)

Press flaps
(Worldmapfabric)
Making buttonholes in flap
(Worldmapfabric)
Rolled hem bottom front panel

1-needle lockstitch

0,15

0.4

Rolled hem bottom back panel 1-needle lockstitch

0,15

0.4

Stitch front panel to back

panel at the shoulder seams
Overlock shoulder seams

1-needle lockstitch

0,50

1.5

3-threads overlock

0,20

0.6

Sewing buttons with automatic Button-attatch machine

machine at back panel
(Knoopaanzet-autom.)
Rolled hem sleeves
1-needle lockstitch

0,40

1.2

0,60

1.8

11

Folding sleeve straps

Iron

0,20

0.6

12

Sewing sleeve straps

1-needle lockstitch

0,30

0.9

13

Topstitch sleevestrap to
sleeves

1-needle lockstitch

0,10

0.3

8
9
10

25

14

Making buttonhole in
sleevestraps

15

0,30

0.9

Sewing buttons with automatic Button-attatch machine

machine at sleeves
(Knoopaanzet-autom.)

0,20

0.6

16

Set bies in neck together with

worldmapfabric

1-needle lockstitch

0,40

1.2

17

Set right sleeve with lockstitch

1-needle lockstitch

0,40

1.2

18

Overlock right sleeve seam

3-threads overlock

0,20

0.6

19

Set left sleeve together with

1-needle lockstitch
worldmapfabric with lockstitch

0,50

1.5

20

Overlock left sleeve seam

3-threads overlock

0,20

0.6

21

Close side-arm and underarm

seam with lockstitch

1-needle lockstitch

1,00

2.9

22

Overlock closed sidearm and

underarm seam

3-threads overlock

0,20

0.6

6.8

21.3

28

TOTAL

Buttonhole (lingerie)

Machine type

Number of machines

Numbers

1-needle lockstitch

16

1, 5, 6, 7, 10, 12, 13, 16, 17, 19, 21

3-threads overlock

8, 18, 20, 22

Button-attatch machine

9, 15

Buttonhole (lingerie)

4, 14

Quickturner

Iron

3, 11
26

PRODUCTION SYSTEM AND TRANSPORT SYSTEM

Production system UPS

Ive choosen for the unit production system (UPS), because the work
stations are so constructed that the components are presented as
close as posible to the operators left hand in order to reduce the
amount of movement required to grasp and position and
component to be sewn. Also, the garment components are
automatically transported from workstation to work station
according to the pre-determined sequence.
The production system is divided into seven different sections.
The first section is the section where all the small parts are made.
This includes sewing the worldmapfabric and sewing small parts for
the sleeves which can easily be added later on, when the sleeves will
be attached.
The second and thirth parts are seperated. In this two stages, the
back and frontpanel are made. By doing this at the same time the
process continues to run well and faster.
The fourth part will seam the front and backpanel together, along
with the worldmapfabric. This is shown in the production line below.
The worldmapfabric will be attachted at the frontpanel.

After this stage is done, the neck collar is set.

In the second stage, the sleeves are set. In this stage, stage one will
come together with this part. The small parts are ready to be
attached on the sleeves. After the parts are set, the sleeves will be
set.
The seventh and last part is the finish. There will be a controll to check if
everything is done right without fails.

Transport system

As already mentoined earlier, our clothing line will be produced in
turkey. Weve chosen to provide the collection of the factory by
trucks to our warehouse in amsterdam. From that point on the
collectionof herschel garment is send to the retailers with a shop
and the e-commerce retailers. For the transport of our goods, weve
selected the cross-dock logistic. This means that all products are
quickly transported again. Because of this, we wont need a large
storage, which will save us money. The products are transported by
a city trailer.

27

PRODUCTIONLINE

Make backs
Make small parts
1

Close backs and

fronts
7

10

11

14

15

12

Set neckcollar
16

13

Make fronts
5

Finish

Set sleeves
17

18

19

20

28

LEAD TIME
Total SAM
Number of employees:
Operations:
Cordsize:
Cycle time:

675 = 6,75
18 employees
22 operations
7
(SAM / number of employees) * Cord size
(6,75 / 18) * 7 = 2,63 = 3 min

Cycle time is the total elapsed time to move a unit of work from the beginning to the end of a physical
process. With a cycle time of 3 min it means that each machine/employee needs an average time of 3
min to complete the operation.


Operations:
22 operations
Cycle time:
3 min
Lead time:
1) 22 * 3 = 66 min. = 100% efficiency
2) 66 * 1.3 = 85,8 min = 70% efficiency
A lead time is the period of time between the initiation of any process of production and the
completion of that process. It takes an average 66 minutes for the whole process to run and
complete the garment with an efficiency of 100%.

Daily working minutes
480 minutes
Total SAM:
675 = 6,75
Operations:
22 operations
(480 / 6,75) * 22 = 1564
Daily output:

MATERIAL OVERVIEW

Garment: TORONTO

Code

Product
Description

Quantity

Unit

Size (cm)

Required processing

01

Fabric A,
green/grey
weave

Fabric B.
Worldmapfabric

1,5

48

0,5

02

30


03

Button

PC

1,5 cm width

04

Lockstitch yarn

200

05

Overlockyarn

700

06

Label

PC

3 cm x 2 cm

07

Polybag

PC

30 x 30 cm

08

Size label

PC

1 x 1 cm

09

Hangtag

PC

5 x 7 cm

10

Care label

PC

4 x c cm

11

Spare button
bag

PC

3 x 2 cm

31