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INTRODUCTION
Elemental is epic yet intimate. Exploring the
elements of nature, it has a solitary, roaming spirit
as it moves from the ruggedness of the great
outdoors to the inner calm that can be found
indoors. A sublime story that runs through deep
winter, it has emotional intensity and an
atmospheric friction as the still and stormy collide.
METALLIC
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The palette sweeps from pale, breezy neutrals to heavier, moody greys. It tugs between hard and soft, light
and dark, creating a tension that is bolstered by cold pastels and pearly metallics.
Old Seafarer
Elemental immerses itself in the ferocity of natures force. Romantic in a grand way, it
sits in the centre of a storm, and brings to mind epic images of heavy waves, fleeing
gulls and old sailors out at sea. With that in mind, fashion wraps up warm, protected
from the elements. Waxed cottons, treated wools and natural performance fabrics offer
great defence, providing shield and shelter from the wind and rain. Volume is
everywhere, drowning the silhouette.
Fishermans Oilskins
Traditional oilskins are brought up to date. Protecting against heavy rains
and loud thunderstorms, old sailor-associated surfaces and treatments
are applied to new, contemporary silhouettes. Yves Salomons oily bottlegreen leather coat is a great example of this, where the traditional
fishermans coat is reinvented for modern-day use.
Delicately Wild
Knitwear grows organically, creating bold, dominant forms in soft,
gentle textures. Known for knitting emotional sculptures, our
influencer, Taiwanese designer Johan Ku, takes hand-knit and
crochet techniques to new levels, blowing up the scale to explore
the upper limits of the gauge. Jewellery also looks to organic
growth, focusing on reproducing raw, natural textures.
Colour Erosions
Design peers out onto the wastelands of salt
and sulphur plains of the Danakil Desert, an
area in northeast Ethiopia. A rare geological
sight, this stark, striking scene streaked with
yellow and red is a great source of inspiration,
influencing surface treatments, washes,
patterns, prints and tie-dyes.
Mineral Traces
The wind and weather wear things down, creating worn-in
textures and leftover traces. The dreamlike work of Mia
Faithfull and Andr Schmucki, with its blurry layers and
barely-there borders, guides surface interest and treatment
this season. Softly weathered and washed, the remnants and
residues should be left to linger.
Atmospheric Stills
Digital photography looks to the beauty of the natural
world. Key for prints and graphics, text is also
introduced into the landscape, scattered and jagged
for original effect. Polly Balitro strongly influences this
upending trend, experimenting with the technique of
photomontage to create unique landscapes that not
only bring together the old and new but have a sense
of symbolism to them too.
Smoky Luminescence
Inspired by the watery glow of winter light, fabrics smolder with
gentle luminescence. Colour is dark and smoky, diffused and
dreamy. Effects come through either the structure of the fabric or
the surface of the print. Luke Elwess modern-day Monets are key
to this story, as he collects colour and light to create movement
and ripples that glow with smoky pearlescence.
Natural Structure
Elemental also looks at nature from a darker, more reflective
angle. The new floral for the season works for camos,
placements and conversational repeats. For inspiration, turn
to the beautiful, enchanting paint-like photographs of
Carsten Witte, who has created a mesmerising series titled
The Secret Life of Plants. From a design point of view, keep
colours dark, heighten the shadows and focus on the texture
and structure of plants.
Soft Utility
Utility and function turn modern and minimalist through the use of
pure, soft and padded fabrics. As well as offering a comfortable yet
protective framework, tailoring and sportswear are also fused
together for a soft, cosy approach to utility dressing.
Inner Sanctuary
An inward-looking trend, this theme uses the
cocooning comfort and soothing consolation of
the blanket for design reference. The way the
fabric folds and falls is key, while volumewrapped designs, merino wools and thick,
enveloping layers also help create an inner
sanctuary through cloth.
Duvet Dressing
Modern quilting is being updated with sumptuous textures, depth
and volume. Triggered by Maison Martin Margielas collaboration
with H&M last year which saw the launch of the duvet coat, softly
quilted and puffy proportions are only set to grow, as designers
look to the cosy comfort of snug duvet days for inspiration this
autumn/winter season.
Extreme tactility defines a quietly protective look. Lofty, air-spun yarn knits with frosted finishes, tangled and fibrous roving-yarn weaves, and soft pilled-look fleecy
weights offer enveloping warmth while dimensional quilted jerseys offer haptic dimension and insulation.
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