Report and Analysis of the QA Audit: Paper Two

Christian Castillo
Andie Villez
Eve Granack
FCS 370, 371
Advanced Textiles
Dr. Keist

Executive Summary
Target Market
Male
Someone in the work industry or working harsh environments
(example: factory worker, construction, farmer, city worker)
30-50 years old
Larger framed individual
Single, Married, or Divorced
Located in Rural or Urban area
Low to middle-class income (makes $40,000 to $60,000
annually)
Buys for durability and low cost
Doesnt care about fashion
Expectations for Product
Durable and Abrasion resistant
Easy Care, no staining
Everyday work wear
Good tearing strength and breaking force
Affordable
Protect skin
Product Characteristics
Structure: Even-Sided Twill Weave
Yarn Count: 273 x 240
Fabric Name: Drill
Fabric Weight: 10.65 oz/yd2
Bow: .74% Skew: 1.48%
Yarn Type: 2 ply spun yarn with average Z twist
Fiber Content: 100% Cotton
Finish: N/A
Color: Tan/Khaki, sulfur piece dyed
Fabric Defects/ Fabric Quality: See attached diagram
Physical Performance
Durability: Overall Good
Tearing strength: N/A (Expected to perform well based on other
results.)
Breaking Force: Excellent

Bursting strength: N/A (Expected to perform well based on other

results.)
Pilling: Excellent
Abrasion resistance: Poor (Due to skewed results.)

Colorfastness: Overall Excellent

Light: Excellent
Acid/Alkalis: N/A
Water: Excellent
Cleaning: Excellent
Crocking: Good
Perspiration: Excellent
Frosting: N/A
Care

and Appearance Retention: Overall Poor

Soil Release: Poor
Oil Repellency: N/A
Dimensional Stability: Good
Durable Press/ Appearance Retention: Poor

Comfort and Safety: Overall Good

Hand: Good
Absorbency: Poor

Water Repellency/ Resistance: N/A

Flammability: N/A
Elongation/ Elasticity N/A
Aesthetics: Overall Good
Drape: Good
Stiffness: Good
Creasing: N/A
Wrinkling: Poor

Product Description
The product we selected are a pair of Signature Levi jean work
pants. The pants are straight legged, and has two front pockets and
two back pockets. They were made in Pakistan and are a tan khaki-like
color. The size is a 42 width by a 32 length. The pants appear to be
intended for a work pant. For specific care the pants are to be machine
wash cold with a durable press cycle. Tumble dry durable press cycle
and can iron. Product appears to be durable and can hold up in harsh
conditions. The work pant was purchased from Wal-Mart on clearance
for $5.36. Original price was $19.92.
Target Market
The target market for the work pant would be someone who a
larger framed male who works in some sort of harsher condition such
as a construction worker, factory worker, farmer, or city worker. The
target age range would be 30-50 years old who is living in an urban or
rural area. The target market would make a low to middle class income
($40,000-$60,000) and would buy the pants for everyday use. The
target market would expect the product to be durable and be able to
hold up in working conditions. The target market would be for people
who are not fashion oriented and would like the outdoors.
Expectations for Product
The expectations for the product would be that it is durable,
abrasion resistant, and also have a good tearing strength and breaking
force. The work pant should be able to withstand everyday use even in
harsher environments. The work pant is expected to protect skin from
different conditions and keep the wearer safe. The product is affordable
and easy to replace because of the affordability. The product is
expected to be easy to care for, and more stain resistant than regular
pants.
Product Characteristics
The work pants are made of 100% cotton and are an even-sided
twill weave (273 x 240). The yarns of the pants are a 2-ply spun yarn
with a Z twist and are sulfur piece dyed to a Tan/Khaki color. The work
pant has no special finished applied to it.

Physical Performance
Durability: Overall Good
The mens work pants received an overall good rating for durability. For
tearing strength (ASTM D 1424-96, Elmendorf), we were not able to
perform this test but based on other results we believed it would have
passed for both the warp and weft with no problem. For breaking force
(ASTM D 5034, Scot Tester), our specification for both warp and weft
was 150 lbf or greater. Our fabric, for warp, received an overall
average of 152 lbf and for weft, an overall average of 232 lbf. Based on
these results we believe that these pants will hold up in rough work
environments and can with stand a lot of stress and elongation. For
bursting strength (ASTM D 3786-01, Mullen Tester), we were not able to
perform this test completely because our product broke the machine.
Based on this fact and other results we believe that the product would
have had no problem passing the specification. We are confident in
that our product would not rupture while out in the workforce. For
pilling (ASTM D 3512), our specification for before laundering was a
3.5-5.0 and our specification for after pilling was a 3.0-5.0. Our fabric
for both warp and weft passed with a 5.0 rating. We believe because
of these results that the work pant would be resistant to pilling for
multiple washes. For abrasion resistance (ASTM D 3512), our
specification for before laundering was 0%-5%, and our specification
for after laundering was 0%-10%. We failed both before and after
laundering, with before receiving a 34.6% and after laundering
receiving a 27.2%. The reason this test failed us was because the fiber
end glue did not work and the edge of the fiber ended up tattered.
Colorfastness: Overall Excellent
The mens work pants received and overall excellent for colorfastness.
Colorfastness to light (AATCC 16) passed our specification by receiving
an overall score of 5.0 on the Gray Scale rating system. Our
specification for this product was 3.0-5.0 so the fabric was able to color
a lot better than expected. For colorfastness to water (AATCC 107) and
colorfastness to perspiration (AATCC 15), our fabric passed both
specifications with an average of 4.8 for color loss. The multi-fiber test
specifications also both passed colorfastness to water and perspiration.
There was no noticeable color transfer from the fabric, expect for
polyamide which received a 4.8 for color fastness to perspiration. We
feel that the work pant exceeded expectations for these specifications.
For cleaning (AATCC 61), our specification for color loss was a 3.0-5.0.
The mens work pant passed by receiving 5.0, which again surprised us
with the results. For color transfer all specifications passed, with our
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lowest result being a 4.6 on worsted wool. For crocking (AATCC 18),
product passed all specifications. The highest rating received was a 5.0
on before laundering dry, and the lowest was a 3.7 which was after
laundering dry. The colorfastness on the work pants was excellent, but
was not expected or an important quality needed.
Care and Appearance Retention: Overall Poor
The mens work pants received an overall poor rating for care and
appearance retention. The overall care and appearance retention of the
product was testing the soil release, dimensional stability, and durable press
and appearance retention. For soil release (AATCC 130) the specifications that
we set for the mens work pants after the first laundering cycle was a rating
of 4.0-5.0 and after the third laundering cycle 2.0-5.0. Our results received an
average of 2.8 after the first laundering cycle and 2.8 after the third
laundering cycle. Our sample failed the specification for after first laundering
cycle, but it did pass the specification for after the third laundering cycle. We
feel as though it is import for our mens work pants to have excellent soil
release due to the working conditions which could easily cause staining to the
product. One way that the product could improve soil release would be
adding a permanent finish to prevent staining the product. For dimensional
stability (AATCC 135) the specification that we set for the product after the
first laundering cycle was a shrinkage tolerance of 0.5%-1.5% in length, and
0.3%-1.3% in width. The specifications set for the product after the third
laundering cycle was a shrinkage tolerance of 1.5%-2.0% in length, and 0.5%1.5% in width. After our first laundering cycle our product shrank 1.2%
lengthwise and 0.6% crosswise. After our third laundering cycle our product
shrank 1.5% lengthwise and 1.0% crosswise. Our mens work pants passed
the specifications that we set for the product. We believe that the product will
have appropriate dimensional stability to satisfy the consumer. For durable
press and appearance retention (AATCC 124) the specifications that we set
for the product after first laundering cycle was a rating tolerance of 4.5-5.0.
The specification that we set for the product after the third laundering cycle
was a rating tolerance of 4.0-5.0. After the first laundering cycle our sample
was given a rating of 3.3 and after the third laundering cycle our sample was
given a rating of 3.0. Our sample did not pass the specification that we had
set. We believe that it is important to improve the durable press and
appearance retention to satisfy the consumers needs. By lightening the
fabric weight or by adding some sort of starch finish to the pants, we believe
that is could improve the durable press and appearance retention of the
product.

Comfort and Safety: Overall Good

The mens work pants received an overall good rating for comfort and
safety. The overall comfort and safety of the product was testing the
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absorbency and hand. For absorbency (AATCC 79) the specification

that we set for the mens work pants was a tolerance of 40-60 seconds.
The results that the fabric received for absorbency was 7.4 seconds.
Our sample failed the specification that we had set for the fabric. We
believe that it is important to decrease the absorbency of the work
pants due to the consumers possible working conditions. It is
imperative for us to meet the consumers needs by providing mens
work pants that are going to absorb the least amount of water. For
hand (AATCC 5) we set specifications for a variation of groupings
including bulky, loft, raspy, warm, firm, stretchy, stiff, and supple. The
specification that we created was a tolerance rating of 9.0-10.0 bulky,
2.0-4.0 lofty, 8.0-9.0 raspy, 8.0-10.0 warm, 8.0-10.0 firm, 3.0-5.0
stretchy, 7.0-9.0 stiff, 2.0-3.0 supple. The mans pants received rating
results of 6.0 bulky, 4.0 lofty, 8.0 raspy, 8.3 warm, 8.0 firm, 1.3
stretchy, 7.7 stiff, and 1.0 supple. The product passed on all the
categories besides bulky, stretchy, and supple. We believe that
although we could use improvement in those three areas, the products
overall hand will meet the expectations of the consumer.
Aesthetics: Overall Poor
Our garment received an overall poor rating for aesthetics. For
wrinkling (AATCC 66), our specifications for both warp and filling were
ratings of 160 to 180 degrees. Our fabric for warp, received an average
reading of 102 and for filling, an average of 111. With this failing test
result our product did not meet expectation, since the product was
thicker it was thought to be more wrinkle resistant.
Conclusion
Overall, our target market would be satisfied with this garment based
on price and product expectations. Further suggestions would be that
the manufacturer needs to be more aware of soil release, wrinkling,
and appearance retention. Due to the nature of Wal-Marts quality and
price this garment is acceptable but not if it was more expensive.
Consumers expectations are low because they are paying a low price
for the work pants. We feel the pants would be better if it had some
sort of finish to help with soil release. These pants might be worn by a
factory or construction worker who works in an environment handling
harsh chemicals or soil. If the pants had some sort of repellency the
fabric would not attract stains or soil. We would also like to see
appearance retention improved because after being washed and dried
the work pants looked extremely wrinkled. A wrinkle free finish would
improve the appearance of the pants. Perhaps wrinkling would not be
such an issue but we think they would be a reason why a worker would
continue to purchase the same work pants throughout their lifetime. In

conclusion, the mens work pants meets the expectations and needs of
a worker.

Mens Work Pants

Front

Front

Zone

Zone
2

Back

Back

Zone
3

Zone

Zone 5 (All inside portions)

Fabric Defects and Fabric Quality

The work pants are divided into five zones for inspection and
evaluation for defects. Zone 1 includes the top front portion of the
pants from the waist to the knee. Zone 2 includes the bottom front
portion of the pants from the knee to the bottom of the hem. Zone 3 is
the top back part of the pants from the waist to the knee. Zone 4 is the
bottom back portion of the pants from the knee to the bottom of the
hem. Zone 5 is the entire inside of the pants. See attachment for visual
of zone locations.
In Zone 1, no major defects and 3 minor defects are allowed to
pass inspection. In Zone 2 one major defect and 3 minor defects are
allowed in this zone. In Zone 3, one major defect is allowed and 3
minor defects. In Zone 4, one major defect and 4 minor defects are
allowed. Zone 5, 2 major defects and 4 minor defects are allowed. No
more than 5 defectives samples of a lot of 50 will be allowed to pass.
Defects that will be
Minor Defects
Less than 5 uncut threads
Uneven pockets less than
Uneven stitching less than
Labels sewn unevenly
Difference in pant leg lengths less
than
Difference in pant leg width less than

Major Defects
More than 5 uncut threads
Uneven pockets more than
Uneven stitching more than
Difference in pant leg lengths more
than
Difference in pant leg width more than

Hole
Stains
Uneven coloring
Unfinished stitching
Foreign materials in fabric
Crooked pockets
Irregular stitching

Results

Characteristics
Full leg length
Inseams
Leg circumference
Waist circumference
Front crotch seam (from
bottom of waistband)
Back crotch seam (from
bottom of waistband)
Bottom hem
allowance/measurement
Waistband
allowance/measurement
Side pocket length
Side pocket stitching
hem
Back pocket hem (from
top of pocket)
Back pocket length
Back pocket width
Thigh area
(circumference)

Standard/ Test
Method: Visual
Assessment

Specification

Results

Pass/
Fail

43 1/4 +/- 1/4

31 1/8 +/- 1/8
22 3/8 +/-
45 +/- 1/8
11 +/- 1/8

43 3/8
31 1/8
22 7/8
44 7/8
10 15/16

Pass
Pass
Pass
Pass
Pass

14 +/-

14

Pass

+/- 1/8

Pass

1 +/- 1/8

1 9/16

Pass

10 7/8 +/- 1/8

3/8 +/- 1/8

11
3/8

Pass
Pass

3/8 +/- 1/8

5/16

Pass

7 +/-
6 5/8 +/- 1/8
27 +/-

7 1/8
6
27 1/16

Pass
Pass
Pass

In
Zone
1, no
major

defects were found, and 1 minor were found, which were uncut
threads, Zone 1 passed inspection. In Zone 2, no major or minor
defects were found, Zone 2 passed inspection. In Zone 3, no major
defects were found and 2 minor defects were found, which were uncut
threads and label sewn unevenly, Zone 3 passed inspection. In Zone 4,
no major or minor defects were found, Zone 4 passed inspection. In
Zone 5, 1 major defects were found and 0 minor defects were found,
which more than 5 threads were uncut, Zone 5 passed specification.
Mens Work Pant Measurements

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References

Kadolph, S. J. (2007). Quality assurance for textiles and apparel (2nd

ed.). New York: Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Kadolph, S. (2010). Textiles (11th Ed.) New Jersey: Prentice Hall, Inc.
AATCC Test Methods and Evaluation Procedures. (n.d.). Retrieved March 11, 2015, from
http://www.aatcc.org/testing/methods/index.htm
ASTM International - Standards Products. (n.d.). Retrieved March 11, 2015, from
http://www.astm.org/Standard/

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