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69 Ton Signpost

Dragons Porsche King Tiger

Modelled by David Parker
Photo Bovington Tank Museum

Photo Bovington Tank Museum

Photo IWM via Barry Crook

nspiration can come upon you quite suddenly. I

had always liked an image of an abandoned
Porsche King Tiger with its turret turned to the
rear when I came across another picture of the
same vehicle with 2 boys sitting astride the gun.
Very quickly I had managed to uncover a further
series of pictures giving an all round view of the
tank and showing that the vehicle had been used
as an improvised signpost by the advancing
Allies and I was inspired.

The particular Tiger had served with the 3rd

company of PzAbt 503 and has been tentatively
identified as 311. It appears to have broken
down during the retreat from Normandy and to
have been scuttled by its crew. Given its
thorough photographic coverage I would
speculate that it must have been one of the first
examples that the advancing Allies came across.

The release of Dragons new Porsche King Tiger

was all the excuse I needed to begin and at
about the same time Andrea released their figure
set of the two boys which seemed ideal for my
Photo Bovington Tank Museum

MR SURFACER was used to add
texture to the hull where zimmerit
is missing.

Zimmerit is applied using

MILIPUT which can be
chipped off easily before it
completely cures.

The leverage point on

the hatch is drilled out

The interlock on the

rear armour is too wide
and must be narrowed

With an open hatch

MORI comes to the
rescue by providing
all the internal details
on their replacement

The Pistol port on the turret hatch was

drilled out and an ABER plug from their
Ferdinand set was fitted.

The welded shell

port would
normally be
hidden by the
zimmerit. GREEN
STUFF putty was
applied around a
circle of plastic as
a guide.The rivets
are from MODEL

The muzzle brake is

rotated slightly to
replicate the

replace the kit parts these are the old style
crimp together type


Photos 1 to 3

Photo 6

Photos 9 to 10

The initial painting sequence with a dark

The remnants of the zimmerit paste are

These close ups show the application of

brown coat applied before the base coat of

picked out on the turret using a fine brush.

rust stains and chipped paint around the

sand and finally the camouflage pattern

hatches. Note that a wash has been

along with some rusty tones on the turret

Photos 7 to 8

applied to the whole vehicle using a mix of

and engine deck.

I cut down a small chisel brush to the

oils and enamels.

width of the zimmerit pattern and stippled

Photos 4 to 5

on different toned ribbed patterns to the

Photo 11

Areas of rusted bare metal are picked out

areas where the zimmerit had been lost.

An overall view of the tank with the

in mottled tones of enamels and the

Areas of red oxide primer were also

chipped zimmerit looking very prominent.

engine deck gets a base coat of dark

applied to areas of more conventional



Photo 12
The same ribbed effect was also applied to

the areas of flaked zimmerit.











Photo 13

Photos 15 to 20

chocolate brown colour before getting a

The engine deck is given a top coat of

Scuffs and chips are applied to areas of

wash of rust toned enamels. Next earth

assorted rust tones using enamels.

high wear along with rain streaked stains

toned pigments are brushed into all the

on the vertical surfaces. At this point the

recesses followed by some diluted rust

Photo 14

heavily weathered appearance is really

pigments. After fitting the tracks they are

Although they are not visible on the period

starting to work.

given a light wash on the raised surfaces

with more enamels.

photos turret numbers were hand painted

on the rear and right side of the turret

Photos 21 to 22
Weld beads are picked out in a Gunze

Photo 27

Photo 15

Colour silver which can be polished when

Because the tank has been at the roadside

Areas of rust were oversprayed with tones


for some time I added areas of dust to the

horizontal surfaces. This shot of the engine

of red brown gouache to unify the

underlying enamels followed by areas of

Photos 23 to 25

deck shows it around the turret ring and air

black soot staining around the burnt areas.

The tracks are sprayed with enamels in a






















Photos 26 to 27

Photo 29

Magicsculpt. These were the first children's

With close reference to the photographs

Similarly the tracks are sunken into the

faces I had painted and it required a

the lettering was applied to the turret using

base and accumulated debris is added to

slightly different approach - no 5 Oclock

white enamels which was dirtied with

the inside of the tracks and strands of

shadows but pink cheeks instead.

Humbrol No.72.

grass are growing up through the tracks.

Photos 35 to 36

Photo 28

Photos 30 to 34

Details of the debris on the upper deck

More debris was applied to the decks with

The Andrea Rascals figures were ideal

and turret, notice the bird droppings on the

small stones and sticks scattered around

and required only minor adjustments. I

turret roof.

to add to the feeling that the vehicle has

chose to remove the seated boys hat an

been sitting at the roadside for some time.

sculpted a new top to his head using


Finishing touches


A simple base was made using

Once dry, the tank was repositioned and

the grass was adjusted for a final fit around

polystyrene ceiling tiles into which the

the grass matting was torn into irregular

the running gear and the figures were

drainage ditch was cut to replicate the

sections and glued into place around the

glued into position. The final touch was the

groundwork in the photographs. Whilst the

vehicle, checking all the time that the

fitting of the muzzle brake which I had to

layer of filler was still wet the tank was

positioning looked natural. I kept the longer

leave separate in order to slide the boy

positioned on the base projected by a

grass close to the hull as people walking

down the barrel. This was fitted at a slight

layer of cling film. This allowed me to sit

around the vehicle would tend to wear

angle as seen in the photographs.

the tank into the filler for that realistic

down the foliage. When the grass has

sunken appearance. The footprint of the

dried the tank was again removed and the

tank tracks were then cleaned out of any

base was sprayed using gouache. The

remaining filler before it set.

vehicle was then glued into position and


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modelled by


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In the current modeling market, military vehicles have appeared at
some apparently unusual scales, and the traditional scales (1/35 or
1/72) have been improved to unexpected limits in recent times.
Nowadays, scales as diverse as 1/144 or 1/16 are firmly established
and have many fans though a few years ago this would have been
hard to predict.

In this period of constant development, it was only a matter of time

before a company tried to fill the gap for military vehicles in quarter
scale. Well, the fact is that the idea is not new and some
companies have tried it before with some success, but regrettably
there was never the demand or the production to popularise the
scale as 1:35th was. Since then, quarter scale has been mainly
provided for with die-cast replicas and a few resin kits for aircraft
fans. Fortunately, it seems everything is changing now with this
wave of new releases. Tamiya has restarted producing kits in 1/48
scale, and they may have the influence to settle down a "new"
industry standard into the modeling market. We will know soon after
the reaction of other modeling brands and aftermarket companies.
Some more kits (M4, Stug III, Hetzer, M4 A1, M-10) will be
available by the time this article is published


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Inside the box

We find a very nicely detailed Tiger I early
production model molded in dark gray
plastic with die-cast chassis. The design of
the kit is coherent and simple, sacrificing
the number of optional parts in exchange
for a good average quality and a really
easy assembly, something Tamiya excels
at. In order to avoid handling small or
fragile parts, it is surprising to see how
some parts are moulded on, like some
tools on the upper hull or the solid handles
in the turret hatches and engine access
cover. This may be surprising for
experienced modelers, but do not get it
wrong. No one is trying to replace 1/35
scale with these smaller kits, although I am
sure we will see outstanding detailing work
in the future from the hands of talented
modelers. This is one nice & easy kit or an
excellent base for super detailing.

I cannot imagine the reasons for including

a die-cast chassis, maybe lower production
costs, but I must say it makes our model
heavy-a strange but nice sensation for this


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size of kit. Fitting is almost perfect all the

time and mixing metal with plastic parts is
no problem at all, even for a beginner. In
addition, the metal chassis comes primed
in matt light gray lacquer, something really
helpful for assembling & painting.

The kit provides a good combination of link

by link and track sections that I would love
for its 1/35th scale series. The tracks can
be assembled over a guide included in the
"A" sprue. The system works well and one
can easily assemble the tracks even with
the right sag. The kit also includes the two
different drive sprockets used by early


Once on the workbench, I assembled the

model following the instructions almost
from the box totally. I simply refined some
parts and other minor details to give it a
better presence. For that, I divided the
pipes of the air cleaners that come
together in the kit, and hollowed their
exhausts with a drill. With thin copper wire I
replaced all the

handles in the hatches

and made the light connections along the

upper hull, and I made the attachments of
the spare track links to the turret sides with
styrene sheet . After that, all that is left is
to decide if you want to leave the crew


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hatches open or closed. Tamiya have

recently released a panzer crew figure set
to populate these kits.

Tamiya included four very interesting
marking & painting schemes in this kit. The
early Tiger I is a really fashionable subject
at the moment so Tamiya have taken
advantage of this and provide four quite
unusual -but well known and attractiveoptions. After studying color schemes
deeply, I decided for this one (s.Pz.Abt.505
, Russia, Summer 1943) , mainly for its
interesting pattern. Also, it seems that for
some reason dark yellow/red brown
schemes are not actually very popular
among modelers for this cat . Don't ask me

The camouflage is painted copying the

pattern from the instructions sheet using
airbrushed Tamiya acrylics. First I applied a
plain coat of dark yellow (XF-60) and after, I
free hand airbrushed the stripes with red
brown (XF-64). I first mixed both colors with
flesh (XF-15) instead of white. This made
them lighter and it also helps to get some
subtle harmony among them. Once the
camouflage was finished I sprayed the
model with Future, and applied the decals.

Following this, I painted all the tools and

accessories with several Vallejo colors. This
includes the tow cables, the tracks, and all
the wheels were painted in earth brown
color directly before painting the rubber

I finally lacquered again to seal all

the previous work for the last time.

From that point I first painted some

chipping and mapping with Vallejo colors,
following no specific pattern. The trick is to
use similar lighter or darker- tones to the
camouflage colors, and to get a small
chips to scale. I enhanced all the shapes,
recesses and engraved lines with a dark
wash with very dilute Tamiya enamels,
black (XF-1) and red brown (XF-64). I also
blended all over the vehicle small drops of
other vivid colors like olive green (XF-58) or
hull red (XF-9) that I faded with a wet clean
soft brush, acting as filters, and changing


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the appearance of the color in areas.

For dust and weathering, I made some

light washes with buff (XF-57) mixed with
red brown (XF-64) in enamel. The trick is to
watch it while it dries, and correct it while
still wet when necessary. Do not apply a
thick coat, and repeat the process totally
or partially- as many times as you wish. I
also applied some washes with Vallejo red
brown and orange to the exhaust guards,
and to the tracks over a very dark brown
base. For the wheels I applied some
washes with buff (from the acrylic range
this time) to highlight their details and give
a dusty and dry appearance.

I added some rust to the spare track links

with Mig Productions pigments. To
enhance the main shapes of the hull and
turret, using some different grade graphite
pencils. I picked out all the edges carefully.
It may take time, but this redefines all the
basic lines of our model, regaining it's
complexity. I also used pencils to give a
heavy metallic appearance to the tracks.

Finally, in my honest opinion, I think quarter
scale kits can be a very enjoyable
alternative and modelers can have a very
good time in the company of these new
kits to come.. Let me wish a long life to


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Zimmerit, Love it but Hate it.

I have always loved the appearance of Zimmerit on the Tiger I

tanks. Zimmerit adds a rough uncomfortable look to this already

ominous Vehicle. I built half-a-dozen Tiger tanks during my early
modeling days. Most of the examples I wanted to construct had

Zimmerit and at the time I was hesitant to replicate this because of

my limited modelling skills. I knew that I would not be able to
dodge the Zimmerit ball for ever. This ball finally hit me when I
started constructing Dragons new Sd.Kfz.181 Panzerkampfwagen
VI (P) or Tiger (P)
After loosely fitting some of its major components I immediately fell
in love with this kit. I decided to put my two current projects aside
and around two weeks later, the model was assembled, complete
with Zimmerit, and ready for painting.
During this article I am going to show you how to construct and
paint Dragons new Tiger (P) model. I will explain how I painted and
assembled the model to represent one of the Panzerkampfwagen
VI (P) tanks sent to Russia with the s.Pz.Jg.Abt.653 during April of
1944. The construction phase of this article will focus primarily on
how I applied the Zimmerit. I placed much emphases on the
Zimmerit application because I found this phase of the model to be
the most time consuming and tedious. Applying accurately scaled
Zimmerit is a very important ability for all Second War armour
modelers. Zimmerit included, I found Dragons new Tiger (P) kit to
be a joy to assemble.
This model was a bit unusual for me. I would not only be simulating
chipped paint, but chips onto the Zimmerit as well. The unique
surface of the Zimmerit would also make weathering this model
a bit different.



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Adam Wilder Models Dragons Tiger (P)


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After practicing my zimmerit application

the excess Milliput from around the details.

During my past articles I have always

skills on a scrap piece of plastic, I was able

and any areas where I felt it to be too thick

encouraged modelers to use photo-etched

to perfect my method. I started by

and out of scale. After this I used my

brass (PE) fenders and other components

constructing a Zimmerit tool from sheet-

finger, moistened with tap-water, to

onto their scale models. For this this

styrene as shown. I filed a bevel on a piece

smooth the surface further. Use a sharp

article, I decided to construct DMLs Tiger

of .060 thick styrene. I then cut the beveled

hobby knife blade and tap-water to

P primarily out of the box. Being partially a

piece of styrene into lengths roughly 4mm

remove Milliput from small crevasses and

review, I wanted the readers to see the

wide and glued the beveled lengths

other difficult to reach areas. I used an old

different parts of this nice kit. I also wanted

together, making sure the bevel on each

wet paint brush to eliminate any remaining

to focus on the application of the Zimmerit.

length is facing the same direction. Align

unwanted Milliput .You may need to

the beveled edges on a flat surface before

perform these steps two to three times

Photos 1 to 3

gluing them together.

before the Milliput is ready to be pressed

I started construction by assembling the

I chose to use some tap water to soften

with the Zimmerit tool.

seven major components of the hull top,

the Milliput during mixing which makes it

as seen in photo no. 1. One of the only

easire to work. The brand of Milliput used

Photos 14 to 15

assembly issues I found during this was

on this model took about six hours to set

I brushed some more water over the

ensuring the corners of the hull top line up

allowing plenty of working time.

Milliput and started embossing it with my

Zimmerit tool which was also wet, making

with the sides. Make certain the front

corner of the full top is properly aligned

Photos 9 to 13

sure the bevels on the tool are facing

with the sides as seen in photo 2. Align the

With the Miliput mixed I was ready to start

downwards. I wrote the word up on the

two corners and let the rest of the hull top

adding the Zimmerit to the model. The

top of the tool to avoid any mistakes. I

and sides fall into place. Flame cut edges

front and rear plates are moulded as

used a single spare bevel to form ridges

were added to the hull sides using a hobby

separate parts. Applying Zimmerit to these

around the details and areas too small for


areas is difficult because of all the bolt

the Zimmerit tool.

heads. I started applying small amounts of

Photos 4 to 8

miliput randomly around the panel and

Photos 16 to 17

I exchanged a few E-mails with the well

then pressed the Milliput flat with a

I then moved on to the models sides and

known modeller Lester Plaskitt. He

modified paint mixer. I used the paint mixer

I decided that it would be best to

recommended that I use Milliput to

because I did not have a spatula small

assemble details like the tool clamps and

replicate the Zimmerit. Although he

enough at the time to fit between the bolts

fender supports. I felt that it would be

recommended the grey/green type Milliput,

as seen in photo nine. A small amount of

more realistic to place the Zimmerit

I only had the super fine white type given

Milliput will go a long way when using it to

around these details than to cut the parts

to me while in Japan. I decided to have a

replicate Zimmerit. I worked the Milliput

into the uneven surface. The fenders will fit

go at this task using what I had to hand.

evenly over the entire surface of the part,

onto the assembled hull without needing

then used a toothpick to remove some of

glue. Attaching the fenders to the hull


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allowed me to locate and glue all the

to one side of the model and let it dry out

kits. The detail of the 88mm gun on DMLs

supports in place onto the hull. There are

before handling it to do the other side.

Tiger (P) is the best I have seen included

inside a plastic model kit. The suspension

some details, intended for Ferdinand and

Elephant models, which need to be

Photos 22 through 23

on the DML Tiger (P) kit is also designed

removed at this time using a knife.

I broke down the turret zimmerit into four

with limited movement as you can see in

The kit includes wire cables and photo

parts - the gun tube, the mantlet, the right

photo no 27. I also decided to wire the

etched cable clamps to use as an

side of the turret and the left side. Once

lights using stretched sprue.

alternative to the injection moulded parts

again, give the Milliput about eight hours to

The two sets of single length vinyl track

also provided. I located the cable clamps

solidify between each section.

included with DMLs Tiger P are also well

and hooks before the applying the

Applying the Zimmerit to the mantlet was

detailed. You can glue the vinyl track

zimmerit. One of the only areas lacking in

tricky. I applied the Milliput in small

together using regular liquid plastic

detail on the kit are the tools. The two

amounts using my hobby knife then spread

cement and the join is so good that after

shovels and axe are all moulded as one

it out before using the Zimmerit tool as

gluing the track it was difficult to see

piece onto what must have been a piece

seen on photos 22 and 23.

where the two sides connected. To my

surprise, I was actually quite happy with

of flat bar. I decided to cut the three tools

apart then later reattached them using

Finishing the Zimmerit was a bit of a

vinyl track. The only problem was that

Aber PE tool clamps. The piece of flat bar

milestone during the construction of this

some of the teeth were bent as a result of

used to mount the tools was replaced with

model and with this done I was now ready

their packaging. I simply clipped the bent

a piece of sheet plastic.

to complete the models assembly.

teeth away using Xuron snips and glued on

replacements cut from plastic. This is the


Photos 18 to 21

Photos 24 to 28

first model I have constructed in over five

With the details fitted to the hull sides, I

I made my own handles using the

years where I did not resort to a set of

was ready to continue applying the

Grabhandler from Mission Models. I have

workable Fruil model metal track. I would

zimmerit using the same techniques. You

always liked the even, seamless, circular

certainly consider using the one piece

will be handling the model extensively

appearance of brass handles over the

Dragon Styrene track again in the future.

during this process so apply the Zimmerit

plastic ones provided with plastic model

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Photos 29 through 33
Photos of the s.Pz.Jg.Abt.653 Tiger (P) in
action show some screens over the rear
louvers of the engine deck. Judging by their
appearance, I would guess that these
screens were a field modification and they
are not included in the kit.
To begin to make the screens I made the
frames using brass rod. I did not have any
material that resembled mesh so I decided
to construct my own using a spool of brass
wire. I carefully marked the frames and cut
the wire into lengths and soldered them to
one side of the frame as shown in photo 29.
I used a 6 scale to help me hold the frame
in position while fixing the wire and soldered
the other end of the wire to the frame and
trimmed it. I then wove perpendicular wires
into the first set using a fine pair of
tweezers. This was a very tedious task and I
alternated from each side working toward
the middle of the screen and it becomes
harder as you work toward the center. With
the screens completed I filed the wire flat on
the frames allowing the screens to sit flush
on the louvers.


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Photos 1 to 2

Photo 3

I always paint the base coats on my

I added some more white to some of the

Dragons Tiger (P) is one of the most

models using Tamiya and/or Vallejo acrylic

dark yellow used for the base-coat. With

enjoyable models I have constructed in

paints. Acrylics are easy to spray, less

the aid of some different sized pieces of

years. The fit of the parts, for the most,

toxic and stand up well to the enamel and

cut paper, I carefully airbrushed some of

was good. After completing the model it

oil washes I apply during the models

the models extruded components such as

was brought to my attention that a large

weathering stages.

the large cover on the hull rear and louver

circular hatch is missing from the rear of

Tamiya acrylic paints dry quickly and I have

housings. The top of the turret and upper

the kit turret. This hatch was also absent

discovered that Tamiya acrylics can

side of the gun was also airbrushed with

from the 1/35 scale line drawings I

sometimes dry before hitting the model

this lighter shade of dark yellow. This

referenced by Hilary Louis Doyle. Other

resulting in a rough sandy appearance. To

breaks up the individual components

than this I found the kit to be quite

help avoid this problem try reducing your

making the model more interesting.

accurate. Now lets move onto painting the

air pressure. Before airbrushing I first paint

Next I added a small amount of blue to


the inner parts of the models hatches.

some of the dark-yellow. I airbrushed this

With the inner part of the hatches painted,

darker shade under the hull, on the lower

I can place them on the model in the

part of the turret, and under the gun. Photo

closed position allowing me to paint the

10 shows the model after these two steps

Applying the Base-Coat

models exterior more easily.

were completed. Although these colors

German three-tone camouflages are

The Tamiya paints I used to mix my dark-

look a bit exaggerated now, they will be

always fun to apply. This Tiger was also

yellow were XF-60 with a bit of XF-57, X-8

come less evident once we start applying

going to be the first model with Zimmerit

and X-2. I also added some X-22 clear to

the weathering steps.

that I had painted.

improve the airbrushing qualities of the

The Assembled Model




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Photos 4 to 5

again at random thicknesses, alongside

that will be applied during the up coming

I decided to airbrush the dark green part of

the green.

weathering stages. Second, the clear coat

will give the model a glossy finish. During

the three-tone camouflage first. I increased

the PSI on my air source from 15 to about

Photos 6 to 7

the next step we are going to be adding

27. I kept my green paint to thinner ratio at

The markings for the s.Pz.Jg.Abt.653 Tiger

artist oils to the model. The artist oils will

about two parts paint and three parts

(P) were applied using Solvaset to soften

reduce the glossy finish giving the model a

isopropyl rubbing alcohol.

the decals allowing them to conform to the

realistic finish.

I mixed the green using Tamiya XF-5 with a

uneven surface. Some areas were pierced

bit of XF-60 and X-8. Airbrushing the red-

with a sharp knife to avoid air pockets.

Photos 8 to 9

brown part of the camouflage was quicker

I then applied a coat of Tamiya X-22 clear

The artist oils you apply during this stage

and easier to apply than the green. During

over the entire model including the running

will depend upon the color of the base-

this step I could simply use the green as a

gear. This coat of clear serves two

coat and camouflage. The colors I use for

guide to make sure the red-brown was

purposes. First, it helps to protect the

a German three-tone camouflage are

balanced. I airbrushed the red-brown,

base-coat from the oil and enamel washes

white, yellow and burnt umber. You will








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need to break the model up into imaginary

dry. This is a good time to start painting

during this step. The first thing we need to

parts then apply and blend the oils onto

the models various details such as the

do during this step is add areas of scraped

one area at a time. Using a brush, I apply

tools and cables. I use pieces of cut paper

paint where the paint has been worn but

the different colored oils in dots then blend

to help prevent unwanted paint on the

not entirely down to the red-primer and

them with turpentine. Adding differing

models base-coat during this task.

steel underneath. Using Vallejo Model

Color acrylics I mix, a colour a few shades

amounts of colours to different areas will

give diverse hues over the model. For

Photos 13 to 14

lighter than the paint on the model. I

example, I added more white to the

General washes are the fist washes I add

usually focus the chipped paint primarily

models horizontal surfaces while adding

to the model during its painting. General

around the corners and edges of the

additional burnt umber the models sides.

washes are another way of adding fake

details. I also added random areas of

shadows around the models finer details. I

scrapes onto the zimmerit.

Photo 11

mix the washes at different paint-to-thinner

After letting the oils dry for 24 hours, I

ratios when applying them to different

Photos 17 to 18

mixed the some lighter and darker tones

parts of the model using both enamel and

With the lighter colored scrapes painted I

using the same oil colors I applied the

artist oil paints which gives the spreading

started adding chips of primer using

darker tone around various details such as

properties of the oils combined with the

Humbrol enamel No.100. As part of the

around the hatches. Dampen the brush

opaque characteristics of the enamels.

chipping process, I mixed a zimmerit

colour using a light grey shade. Ashes-

with a bit of turpentine to help you spread


the oils during this step. It is important to

Photos 15 to 16

White pigments were also mixed with the

note that a small amount of artist oil will

Simulating chipped paint onto a 1/35 scale

Humbrol paints.

spread over a large surface.

model can be a bit tricky but chipped paint

can add an incredible amount of

Photo 19

Photo 12

authenticity to a scale model. It is very

For the final step of the chipping process I

The artist oils will need about three days to

important that you use the correct brush

added areas of rust onto some of the

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chips of exposed primer. I also added

Photos 23 to 24

airbrushed areas of Buff applied during the

streaks of rust by applying vertical lines of

For the first part of the weathering process

previous step.

paint onto the model using a fine brush.

I airbrushed a coat of Tamiya Buff onto the

Wash the lines of rust colors downward

lower chasses and fenders. Cut pieces of

Photos 27 to 28

using the same fine brush dampened with

paper were used of mask certain parts of

I then added areas of dry-mud using a


the model that I wanted to remain clean.

concoction of buff and dark-earth Tamiya

Large random areas of buff were

acrylics. I then add some light dust and a

Photos 20 to 22

airbrushed onto the top of the model

little Europe dust pigments. The final

Graphite was randomly brushed onto the

where dust would collect.

ingredients added are some plaster and

sifted sand for texture. This was applied to

tools and cables. Graphite was also

rubbed onto parts of the model polished

Photos 25 to 26

the underside and lower parts of the

clean by the crew such as the cupola and

Applying rain-marks onto a model using

chassis using an old brush. If the dry-mud

edges of the hatches. Black Tamiya

thinned Tamiya Buff is a great way to add

mixture starts to get too hard simply add a

acrylics were also dry-brushed onto the

subtle streaks of rain-washed dust onto a

bit of water and mix it thoroughly.

tread plate of the fenders.

model. You will want to make a wash of

about 90% water and 10% Tamiya buff. You

Photos 29 to 30

Adding the Earth Colours

will need to place the wash onto the model

After giving the dry-mud time to set I

I wanted this Tiger P to have the dry-dusty

using a small brush. Place the rain marks

started adding a second layer of dust to

look seen in photos of the vehicle. The

onto the sides and slopes of the model

the model using pigments. I mixed a dust

recent models I have painted have also

using vertical strokes.

color using three parts light-dust and one

been wet and muddy. I wanted this dusty

Keep using vertical strokes until the water

part Europe-dust. I brushed light amounts

model to add a bit of variety to my display

evaporates then repeat the process. Apply

of the dust mixture onto the model. I then


the thinned buff to the horizontal surfaces

blended the pigments using Humbrol

of the model. This step will also add a

thinner as shown in photo 43. Pigments

slightly scuffed appearance to the

mixed with Humbrol thinner were also


AFV/24 September/Oct 05


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Page 64

brushed under the model onto the dry

tracks and running gear, I glued them to


the model. I needed to super-glue the

tracks to the tops of the road-wheels to

Photo 31

give them a realistic heavy appearance.

I was ready to apply the fresh earth using a

similar mixture this time I using Humbrol

Photo 36

Chocolate 98 as the base. I then added

Refined areas of fresh mud were also

Russian earth colored pigments, brown

blended into corners and around details on

artist oils and gloss varnish.

the upper hull and turret.

After the fresh mud had some time to dry, I


lightly brushed more earth coloured

Photos 37 to 38

pigments onto the model.

An acrylic gloss varnish was used to add

some streaks of moisture onto the vertical


Photos 32 to 33

and angled parts of the model. Lubricant

The tracks were treated in a similar way. I

was added to some of the running gear

started by spraying a coat of Tamiya Dark-

using a mixture of oxide enamels, artist

Earth to serve as a base. A heavy coat of

oils, gloss varnish and pigments.

dry-mud mix was then applied to the outer

Graphite was added to the tread-plate over

side of the track. I wiped the outer edges

the areas I dry-brushed black in the

of the track clean with my fingers.

previous steps. The final step was applying

Fresh-earth was applied to the center of

a mixture of Ashes-White and panzer grey

the tracks and worn steel was dry-brushed

pigments to some of the areas of chipped

to the outer edges of the track using a


combination of Humbrol metal coat

colours. The metal colour was also added

The Finished Model

to the inside areas of the tracks, drive

Constructing and painting DMLs

sprockets and idler wheels.

Sd.Kfz.181 Panzerkampfwagen VI (P) was

one of the most enjoyable models I have

Photos 34 to 35

constructed in years providing a much

The outer edges of the roadwheels were

needed break from any added details such

painted in the same manner and graphite

as brass and styrene components.

was rubbed onto them. After finishing the



AFV/18 Sept/Oct 04


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Page 56

he first time I saw the Fehrmann

set off from Fallingbostel towards the Weser and

Tigers was in the book Tigers on

ended up in the sector of Wietersheim, where on

the Western front. The pictures of

the 11th of April the last Tiger was lost. All six

F 13 caught my eye especially. The

Tigers were early or mid 1943 versions with the

hand painted turret numbers, the

early rubber tire road wheels replaced by late

extremely battle-damaged appearance, the

steel rimmed wheels. The tracks were also

flaked zimmerit and the half open engine vent

replaced by late tracks with ice cleats.

hatches made it an exciting challenge to make in

scale 1:35.

The Kit

early Tiger kit 35216. It is the best of Tamiyas

This Tiger, together with five others, belonged to

Tiger kits as you get a lot of good extra parts

Companie Fehrmann (identified by the letter F in

from the spare part box. (Early and late drive

the turret number) of Kampfgruppe Schulze.

sprocket and Feifel filters, etc.). It also has the

Companie Fehrmann was established in January

correct asymmetrical turret.

1945 in Oerbke Camp in northern Germany. They


The most suited kit for this project was Tamiyas

AFV/18 Sept/Oct 04


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Page 57

Tiger F13
of Companie
by Jens Kronvold Frederiksen


AFV/18 Sept/Oct 04


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Page 58

Getting started
After assembling all the major parts of the
hull and turret, I filled all location holes and
made the rolled steel texture. I did this by
adding plastic cement to all armor steel
surfaces. (Do this in a ventilated room)!
When the plastic was softened, I rubbed a
toothbrush on the surface. ( Do not use it
for tooth brushing after this! ) After a day
or so, I cleaned the model with fine

The torch cut edges of the armor plates

each pannier, which is missing in the kit.

were made with a small dentists drill. Next

I made these from plastic card with plastic

step was to add all the weld seams. I did

rivets, which were added from

this with a pyrogravure (actually it is a


small soldering iron with a homemade tip

of copper rod and I control the heat with a
Some of the original seams on the kit are
very deeply recessed, which is not correct,
so I glued thin plastic strips on before

of copper wire were added to represent

the hinges.
The underside front of the panniers and the
front armor plate were built of styrene strips.
It is important to get it right if the Tiger is

sandpaper and I achieved a very

without fenders and side skirts. The rear

convincing rolled steel texture. If you try

fender attachment points were replaced

this, take care not to get cement on any

Lower hull details

with Aber parts glued on 0.5mm plastic

card. The plastic card was for adding weld

details or panel lines etc.

There is a long flange on the underside of


The front fenders were cut and small loops

seams around the etched brass part.

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Page 59

the zimmerit pattern, just avoid touching

Running gear


I wanted to give my Tigers suspension a

I have never been completely satisfied with

tired look by lowering the rear of the hull.

my earlier zimmerit attempts with putty

I did this by removing the small location

and Milliput, so I decided to try a new

This styrene zimmerit has many

pins on the hull, except the first one on

method. An extra challenge in this instance

advantages; you can work as slowly as you

each side. So the first torsion bars could

was also to get the flaking as accurate as

want. If you are not satisfied, just melt a

be glued on as per the instructions. The


new pattern in the same styrene. When

unwanted places and details with the

last torsion bars on each side were raised

about 1.5 mm. (Dont overdo this as you
might end up with too little space for the
tracks)!! All the other torsion bars were
glued on and aligned with the front and

you need to glue details on, just add a little

I decided to try with thin styrene sheet and
the pyrogravure. I used 0.3mm Evergreen
styrene, drawing each panel, the zimmerit

the plastic sheet with a pencil.

are from Modelkasten - by far the

best on the market but time-

the detail through the zimmerit to sit on

the steel surface.
The flaking is also easy to accurately
achieve; I even got the exact amount of

The flaking was cut away and the styrene

Tamiyas late version Tiger. The tracks

cement to the area and you can squeeze

lines, and the exact flaking pattern onto

rear ones.
The road wheels were taken from

pyrogravure, as it has to be really hot.

sheet was glued onto the model with small

zimmerit rows on my model according to

the reference photos.

blobs of superglue. (DONT use plastic

cement, as the styrene will act like cheese
on a pizza when you use the pyrogravure)!

consuming to assemble. To add a

little extra detail, I sanded away the

The Pyrogravure needed new tips as wide

ice cleats on the inside of each

as the zimmerit on the hull and a bit

track link to show wear of the

narrower on the turret. I made these

tracks. This feature can be seen

from copper tube hammered flat and

on the preserved Tiger in

filed into shape like a small

Vimoutiers, France.

screwdriver. Then it
was simple to add


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Page 60

Upper hull details

So I scratch built them from small pieces

apparently missing). The underside of the

of styrene strip.

hatches had to be thinned down with a

The drivers splashguard received five

recessed bolts, by adding a strip of styrene

The antenna socket was drilled to

with holes made with a punch and die set.

accommodate a small length of brass tube

Small recessed bolts were also added to

with a wing nut added. The engine fans

the driver and radio operators hatch

were taken from an On The Mark photo


etched set. Their centers were made from

modified Panzer IV wheel hubs. The

All the tool clips were added empty. The

only tools on the model are gun cleaning

lot of work. I first cut off the hatches from

with a small piece of copper wire added

the engine deck (in the hatch hinge itself),


and scratch built a new one to fit the

engine deck. The ABER engine grilles were


Show Modelling Stug III set and glued into

drilled holes.

holding the side skirts, Feifel air cleaners

Bosch light was scratch built from styrene

not hollow and are made from thin metal.

The small keyholes were taken from a The

All the small flanges with screw holes for

The half open engine vent hatches took a

set but cannot be used. In reality they are

intake duct and feifel hose clamp bases.

with tube turned in ABS on a lathe.

believe these items are essential! The

hawser holders are included in the ABER

hatch received scratch built hatch jams;

housings were constructed from styrene

rods and the engine-starting handle. As I

The track cable retainers and towing

small recessed edge added. The engine

super glued on and rubbed down with a

brush handle to simulate that the crew had
walked on them (on F 13 one of them is

and exhaust shrouds are included in

Modelkastens Tiger transport track set SK
3. But I made these myself from 1x1mm
styrene strip. They were glued on a slightly
larger piece of 0.1 mm styrene strip to add
material for the weld seam. You can do the
same with all the small brass details. It
gives you the advantage of being able to
glue these parts on with plastic cement

AFV/18 Sept/Oct 04


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Page 61

(they are a lot easier to position and

The rear lifting lug was cut off and glued


on a small disc for adding the weld. The

The final detail like the small tie downs

and S mine discharger brackets etc. had
to be scratch built. The small lifting lugs
on the exhaust manifolds are included in
the Modelkasten set. The casting
numbers were carefully cut off a sprue
frame and glued on all cast parts.
The single rear fender was from an ABER
set. Add the rear fender to your Tiger at
the end of the build as they are very
fragile. I glued mine on several times!

brackets for the storage box were made

of thin brass strips and welded on. Upper
track hangers were the Tamiya parts
modified and detailed. The lower hangers
are included in the Modelkasten track
The smoke discharger brackets were cut
off with a torch on the real Tiger, so to

and cut them off with a dentists drill.

The Commanders cupola needed some

blocks were added, and the bracket for

The turret was assembled, welded and

styrene strip details were added behind
the mantel.

The gun barrel is from Fine Moulds. It fits

the mantel perfectly. The muzzle brake
was the Tamiya part. It is fine but benefits
from a little detailing: recessed slots,
screw holes and a small slotted ring were
glued inside.
The coaxial machine gun was taken from
a Tamiya infantry equipment set.

simulate this; I glued on the Tamiya parts

extra detailing. Fine Moulds clear glass

The turret

The gun

holding the hatch in open position were

replaced by a homemade part. The six
drain holes were drilled with a 0.3 mm

Battle damage
Finally I wanted to give my Tiger a battle
damaged appearance. The real F 13 had
several shell impacts, especially on the
turret. I made these by grinding away
plastic with a dentists drill and/or using
the pyrogravure. And then it was ready to


AFV/18 Sept/Oct 04


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Page 62


box may have been replaced, as it had

I started the painting process by spraying

sand yellow paint underneath it as well.

two white spots onto the sides of the

There has been a lot discussion about the

The Tiger had a coat of green color.

that it was dark gray overall with

(Green was used widely on German

red/white numbers. I find that hard to

vehicles at the end of the war).

believe. By studying the pictures, it is

The commanders cupola was replaced

vehicle. This was transferred to masking

clear that it has more than one color, and

as it has a different camouflage pattern.

tape and cut out, and these were added

light color. Possibly sand yellow?

It has seen a lot of battle action, as the

zimmerit is much damaged.

picture. The idea behind my colors is


It received a coat of zimmerit and got

painted sand yellow. The turret storage

on the white spots on the turret. The

model was then painted Humbrol 67 Dark

Finally, it was assigned to Companie

Fehrmann and had the F 13 turret
number painted on it.

The areas where the zimmerit had flaked

off were masked with Maskol. Thereafter,
I painted it sand yellow. (Humbrol 94 with
white added). This meant that the gray

The Tiger was originally painted dark


turret numbers, they were drawn on a

gray overall.

The turret markings are not red, as red

will appear black on a black and white

the turret numbers. To accurately get the

computer using a picture of the real

the area on the turret back has a very


turret. This was to be the white outline of

colors on the F 13. One source claims

Of course, this is all purely guesswork,

paint was visible in some areas.

but it explains why my model is painted

I then masked off the rear of the turret

like this.

and the areas that the fenders and side

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Page 63

skirts had covered, and sprayed a final

Weathering consisted of some heavy

Modelkasten SK 4 Late Tiger spare

coat of dark green. (Humbrol 86 with sand

washes of brown and black and some

tracks. (There are NO spare tracks in set

and white added).

gentle dry brushing with lighter colors.


This layer was added in big soft spots so

the underlying colors were visible in some

Much weathering was also done,

with MIG pastel powders. These powders

are really messy to work with, but the

All small details were picked out in their

result is well worth it! It can really bring

respective colors and I added a thin light

your model to life.


painted with a fine brush with the same

paint mix as the green for the rest of the
tank. The metallic areas on the road

Modelkasten A4 Wing nuts.

Modelkasten M7 Bosch lights (I only used

ABER 35014 Tiger I early photo-etched

Parts used
Tamiya 35216 Tiger I Early version.

parts. (Not many parts used on my model).

Next time I will only by ABER G03 engine
grilles and ABER A20 German clamps and

Tamiya 35146 Tiger I Late version (Only

clasps instead.

the steel road wheels).

wheels tracks etc. were painted with

Humbrol polished steel.

Modelkasten A2 Round head rivets.

the sockets).

grey line on the edges of the flaked

The green in the turret numbers were hand

Modelkasten A1 Bolt & Nuts set

especially on the suspension and tracks

ABER 35A10 Front and back mudguards

Modelkasten SK 1 Late Tiger tracks.

for Tiger.


AFV/18 Sept/Oct 04


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Page 64

On The Mark Models TMP-3526 Tiger

and replaced with a pair from Tamiya. The

and the huge number of books with

photo-etched parts. (Only the engine

hood on the jacket was also re-sculpted.

interesting Tigers, this is definitely not the

cooling fan blades).

The figure was painted with Humbrol

last one I will build!

Fine Moulds Tiger I turned aluminum gun


enamel except for the face; it was painted

with Winsor & Newton oil paints.


Fine Moulds MG-23 Clear periscopes.

Hornet HGH8 heads SS officers.
Wolf WSH 21 Figure.

Building and painting the F13 was really an
enjoyable project. It took me a year to

Tigers on the Western front. By jean

Tamiyas steel wheeled Tiger I. By Angus

complete! The actual build took me about

The figure

three months, but the model stood on my

shelf for quite some time before I decided

The figure is from Wolf (WSH 21 Officer of

re-sculpted to fit into the commanders

cupola. The binoculars were ground away


Tiger. By Feist and Culver.

how to paint it.


the LSSAH Kegichevka 1943). It was

heavily modified. The legs were cut off and

Tigers at the front. By Thomas L. Jentz

I find it very interesting to build an exact

vehicle from photographic references, and
with the excellent Tiger kits from Tamiya