Hanging Corner Cabinet * Glass Front Breadbox * Modular Storage Shelving * Choosing Clamps Vol. 22 | No. 128 INSIDE: ) Build a Glass Front Breadbox with a Tuck-under Cutting Board Get Organized with Easy-to-Build Modular Shelving Learn the Secrets for Cutting Perfect Half Lap Joints ‘wnuwoodsmith.com,$$. No. 128 April, 2000 Publisher Editor Associate Editors Donald B, Peschice Terry J. Strohman Jon Garbison Vincent Ancona Todd Lambirth David Kreyling Dirk Ver Stes. Mike Mittermeer Art Director Senior Mustrators (CREATIVE RESOURCES ‘ater incor Te Renee» Proc ea Manel «Project Deg: Het Wel Sip Manag Sa Cinta» Sa 1 Sor Pepa Capito! Designers: Chris Glowocki, Chest LS Desger Vi Saye A Prntein USA 1a) COLUMN SAWDUST Ovex things 1 like about wood: workingis that no matter how care- fully you plana project, there are always afew surprises in store. The Hanging Corner Cabinet that’s featured in this issue isa good example, ‘When we started talking about build- ing this project, alot of questions came up. What's the best way to join angled pieves? How do you ft a cabinet into a ‘corner that may not be square Isthere simple way o build a dividediight door? Well, we thought we'd covered all the bases. But there is one thing we hatin’ spent much time discussing — how to assemble the cabinet, As it turned out, that was one of the more interesting parts of building this project. problem had to do with elamp- he parts together. As the clamp- ng pressure was applied, some of the J pieces tended to slip and slide alignment. And sometimes there -ven a place to put aclamp. So ge became finding wa isin the correct position glue dried mes the solution was.as sim Neasusing few seraps to hold things ace, or to redirect the clamping he solution was nar —a pencil) odsmith Readers’ Gallery 1h subscribers workshops, and see photos of ein the new Readers! Lhe projects they've built Ws all Gallery on the Woodemith web Site: ‘vww.woodsmith.com Wew ade Well.as vou cansee by the photo on the cover, the Comer Cabinet turned out great. But as much as like thecab- inet, it was discovering a few of these simple assembly ticks that really made the project enjoyable for me. Even if you dos't plan on building this projectyou might want to take a look at the different solutions we came uupwith, Hopefully theyll come in handy the next time you run into a challeng- ing clamping situation, READERS’ GALLERY. As I mentioned in the last issue, we've added an excking new feature to our web site, I's called the Woodsmith Readers’ Gallery. For more information, see the box below. HELP WANTED ‘Speaking of new things, we'd like to add some new faces to the August Heme Publishing family. Were look ing for talented editors, ilustrators,and graphic designers who are enthusias- tie about woodworking and home improvement. If you're interested in anyothese postions and would ike to join the team here at August Home Publishing, send a cover letter and resume highlighting your experience to:S. Ribbey, 200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, 1A 50312 | Gallery! To smith projects instructions you'lA LOOK INSIDE CONTENTS Glass Front Breadbox Any way youslice it, a breadbox is a handy But this one as a couple unique features — ass panel and a tuck-under cutting board Breadbox pase6 Getting a Grip on Clamps . spose Le) alae les eae te ith shop. You can n one clamps eos wil ae NeW pms Storage Shelvit 9 - Cutting Perfect Half Laps .. * a good, cold joint that’s not e ‘we walk you to make, half aps may be just the through the procedure for cutting perf Hanging Corner Cabinet . ry nig ar oss Modular Sherine 18 Departments e Tips & Techniques ..........00ccc 4 Shop Notes j ae SOUNES esis aoe Cabinet re 26 No. 138 Woodsmith* turm button FROM FELLOW [WYele) evens re) oii Flip-Down Casters for Outfeed Table Recently Ldecided to bulld order to save on space, 1 an outfeed table for my had to devise a way to table saw.SinceI share my raise the outfeed tole high shop space with the family enough to be able to roll car, need tobeabletoroll my table saw underneath, the saw and the outfeed —itwhen it wasu't in use. table against the back wall The idea I finally came ofthe garage wien 'mfin- up with was to mount the ished working, casters on flipdown riser Making the outfeed table mobile was the easy part — I just used some heavy-duty casters. But in Lock for Folding Sawhorse A few months go, made when they were already aset of folding sawhorses underneath aworkpiece or Hketheones howninissue _asheet of plywoo No. 75 of Woodismith “Topreventthisirom hap. ‘The sawhorses worked pening, I simply added a feat, butThadjust window sash lock to the ‘one complaint. end of each sawhorse, see @\ Every time 1 Figs. Land la. (Sash locks 7 | picked up one of are available at most hard- blocks, see drawing above. ‘Thecasters are attached toa U-shaped frame that pivots on a pair ofolts. The the sawhorses to ware stores) moveittoanother ‘The sash lockeholds the spot, it folded up twohalves ofthesawhorse (on me. This was together and prevents the especially annoy- legs from folding up when Ing if [had to the sawhorse is moved. reposition the Joseph Prochko sawhorses Bond Brook, New Jersey Weodsmith Pip casters down ‘terol eble out ‘able for ‘tarege L frame is made out of “twor by" material and is sized to raise the outfeed table just high enough to allow the table saw to fitunderneath just made the outfecd table to match the height of my table saw. Then 1 Plywood turn buttons on each leg of the table lock the frame in place like the landing gear of an airplane. Once the table is rolled into postion, rotate the turn buttons 90° and flip up the casters The table now rests solidly on its legs, at just the right height to use as an outfeed table. Toney Huegovich Huber Heights, Ohio screw sash lock tend ‘of sow iron ‘mounted the casters to the legs ofthe tabe. ‘To move the outfoed table, simply lft one end and flip down the casters. No. 128Miter Clamping Tip Instead of purchasingaspe- —anglesare cut at 45°.‘Then al clamp for assembling the blocks are glued and titer joints, Tuse this litle screwed to a stip of hard- trick. This method allows board, see Fig. 1. you to clamp up a miter ‘Touse the blocks, [sim- Jaintusing ordinary clamps. _plyelamp one to each work: start by making a cou- piece, see Fig, 1. Then I pie of angle blocks. These place a clamp across the ‘are just small triengles cut two blocks to draw the joint fom a block of wood. The together tightly, see Fig. 2 Ifthe blocks slip as you tighten the clamp, you can some adhesive backed sandpaper tothe hardboard stips to hold the block in place, see Fig. 1 Chris Gamsky app ange blocks so endof mitered peces prone tiacks from sipping \-< ies Glue Squeeze-Out Ceaning up glue squeeze- andrubparaffinwaxacross the joint fines, see Fig. 1 ‘Then glue the boards up, ‘The wax prevents theglue thatoozes out fromadher- ing the wood, Once the glue d to be one of my least favorite jobs. But I've started taking an extra step that makes ita lot easier. Beloreanyghueisapplied, lamp the workpieces up Ue Ca) {f you have an original shop tip, we would like to hear trom you and consider publishing your fip in one or more of our publications. Just write down your tip and mail it to: Woodsmith, Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50312. Please include your name, address, and daytime phone number in case we have any questions. If you would like, BAX it ‘o Us at 515-282-6741 or send us an email mes- sage at woodsmith@woodsmith.com, We will pay up to $200 if we publish your tip. No 128 ‘easy tpop offthe dry tue ‘with achisel or scraper, see Fig. 2. Any wax that remains can be removed ‘with mineral spirits, ‘Dave Ricks Rochester, Minnesota Glue Brush Tip Tike to use small acd brushes for applying glue, In order to avoid get ting g@ue all over my bench when T setthe brush down, [simply make a smallholein the cente ofa baby food Jar lid and stip the handle ofthe brush through. Thelld keeps the end ofthe brush off my bench. And the jar ‘makesa handy glue container, Randlph Dube Acushnet, Masachisees Woodsmith Tuse an empty plastic con- tainer from yogurt, cot tage cheese or sour cream for mixing up small amounts of two-part ‘epoxy. When I'm: gluing up my project, I simply allow the remain. ing epoxy to harden inthe container, It will then lit out cleanly so can reuse the container, ed Christopher Glowseki Encinitas, Cafomia This simple tip allows ‘you to clamp ‘up miter joints using ordinary bar clamps Online Tips yeu tke even ‘ore woodwork- | ings, the solue | tion is simple, duet us at out website and sign Lp to recsive a freetip via enail every week. nsootsiticon FREE |Asi) ¢ciN1B) PROJECT GLASS FRONT BREADBOX The reeded glass in the door of this breadbox may give it a nostalgic look, but it’s still a practical storage solution for eliminating “counter clutter.” something nostalgic cbout adbox. Maybe because it . reminds me ofthe days when the house was full of thearomaoftresh- baked bread. Though you don't seethem ‘many kitchens toda, breadboxes are sill a great place to keep bread (and chips). The loaves are close at hand without leaving the kitchen counter looking clu ‘This breadbox has a simple frame and panel door that lftsup and slides out of the way. But other than the knobs, you won't see any hardware Decause the door slides on “invisible” pins, What you dosee is areed- ced glass panel. Unlike a plain wood steel Besides the glass door that lifts and the way, this breadbox also has bult-in cutting board that slides tuner the bot panel. Woodsmith panel this ass ves the box an ol fashioned look and feel and also hep sm “lighter” and less “boxy I want to mention one other feature that males this breadbox unique. It seemed tome tata breadbox should also have a cuting board han So wien designing the box, Ire ated itl extra space under the bot tom panel of the case, Then I made a hare maple citing board that would slide under this panel, see photo at left. (t seems to “float” because it rests on four nslon char glides) To make the cutting board a little less. ‘conspicuous, I simply added oak edg- ing (and a brass knob) to the panel. 128 eullnse Construction 7 .. eect Details frase eugesorsides — beveled 13 fob Back added, ‘iter doors © ia omensons: ine 19H 17°W x 10%4°D Nore Brendon mace tick iting Boor pret tick pn tt Se ae Top and Beto oiged fosides with stopped ‘adoes and tongues Doge framejoined ‘th stan tenon See ) i sie pin suloose roe ace Boor fon top and bottom ager of door MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM ‘A Box Sides(2) Vex 10%e-11 F BoxBack(1) —%4x10%-16 + (1) Reeded Glass Pane! B Top (1) YexTe- 16 G Strips(11) —-¥ax¥e- 15% + (2) H6.x 1" Fh Woodscrews € Bottom (1) %4xB%e- 16 H Fr/Bk. Edging (2) Yox'%e- 15% + (2) Me"-thick Plastic Bumpers D Door Stiles (2) %x1%-9% 1 Spacer(1) Yex3%-16 — * (4) Nylon Chair Glides E Door Rails(2) Yx1%- 13% + (8) Wdia. Steel Pins Ge" long) (2) ¥e*-dlia, Brass Knobs ex si WH NOTE: Panel (ike sides top etc) ‘ied up for or orepices No, 128 ‘Woodsmithcase back added after doar see page 10 ies ‘CASE EXPLODED VIEW Breadbox Case Asyoucan see in the Case Exploded View above, there’s not much to the case of this breadbox: just two side panels and atop and bottom. (Abback will also be aded tothe case later.) Before geting started let me men: tion something about the wood. Since this project is rather small, didn't ‘want the grain pattern o “overpower the look ofthe breadbox. So chose a wood with tight straight grain — uartersawn (or rftsawn) red oak. GWUEUP Panels, The casei built with Uptthick stock, see Case Exploded jew above. And since the sides (A) are over 10 wide, isa goo ‘ue up each rom two pieces so they’ be less likely to warp, ‘The key to this case is series of stopped dadees that are routed inthe side pieces. Two dadoes wllhold the top and bottom panels. A third cre- ates a channel to guide and support the door as its opened and closed, % [794 sr farpet taped feoerap aiece | ack to back SAFETY noTE: Move router leftto nghe LAY OUT DADOES, The sides “mirror® each other, and anytime you need to ‘cutamirrored set ofdadoes, it’s easy {to get confused, But find it helps if I lay out each dado, see detail ‘a’ above. (Drawing the taper on the front ‘edges also helps.) This way, I can *see" what I'm doing a litle better. ROUT DADOES. When cutting stopped dadoes, Lalso like touse a hand-hetd router, This way, can see the layout lines and the dado being cut while Tm pushing the router along the panel. The panel's not face down as it would be on arouter table) However, Idd do one thing out of the ordinary instead of lamring each panel to the bench, they?re set back- torback and carpet taped to a long scrap piece, see Fig 1. It's this srap piece thats clamped down, This way, cach pairofdadoes are routed in one pass, and no clamps get in the way. lus, i's no trouble to lip the serap out bullnose on {Sp snd tron edges wv Frond overt Woodsmith No. 128piece (nl panels) around to rout the adoes on the opposite edges. Thaven't mentioned yet that to make these dadoes, you'll need an edge guide foryour router. An edge guide isa pretty common accessory, Dbutifyou don’thave one, it’s doesn't . take much to make one, see page 17. . All three dadoes are routed the same. After the edge guide is set, simm- ply turn on the router and lower the Dit into the wood near the left mark, carefully holding the guide against the panel, see Fig. 1. Now, slowly “creep” the router back to the layout line and then push the router across both panels until the bit reaches the layout line on the right. CUT TAPER. Mier all the dadoes are routed, the next step is to taper the frontedges ofthe case sides, see Fig. 2,1 id this on the table saw, andsince shallow taper can't be cut easily with the miter gauge, I used a piece of serap hardboard ‘The hardboard is simply a sled that rides between the fence and the blade, and as you can ee in Fig. 2, the side iscarpettaped io the sled at an angle so the waste hangs over the edge. But you don't have to work with one piece ata time. [carpet taped thesides together (insideface to inside face) so their tapers would end up identical. PILOT HOLE & BULLNOSE PROFILE. The sides are almost complete, butthere are stilla couplethings lft to do. First Fig. 3 shows drilling a hole in each side fora stee! pin that will be added later. (The pin will hold the deor in position at the top of the case.) Then a bullnose profile can be routed on the top and front edges, see Fig. 4 | TOP £ BOTTOM. Now that the sides are complete, the hard work's over; thetop (B) and bottom (C) are much simpler, see Exploded View above. ‘What you want end up with are 1A . thick panels witha 15° bevel ontheir front edges. But the bevel shouldn't . be ripped until ater the tongues on the ends are cu. TONGUES, Cutting the tongues is a two-step process, but both are done on the table saw with a dado set ‘The first stepis to cut the tongues all the way aeross the ends, see Fig. 5a. The second stepisto cut back the Note: PANELENPLODED VIEW 7tzsepices (ade «= ENDVEW ‘are Te ick Bes wanrie 61 is 15°tevel— nore: Top and bottom otal start out extra we front edges ofthe tongues. The fence won't change, but this ime, the pan- els are stood on edge, as shown in Figs. 5 and 5b. Simply nase the blade until the length of the tongue isa lit- tle shorter than the siopped dado. (This way, you don't have to worry about iting the square tongues into the round ends of the dadoes) TOP GROOVE, With the dado set still in the saw [also cut asmall groove in the bottom face of the top panel, see detail ‘bin the Panel Exploded View. This groove will hold the top ofthe case back later. BEVELED PROFLE. To complete the top anc! bottom panels, ther front edges are beveled 15°, see detail ‘ain the Exploded View above. (This bevel ‘matches the taver cut earlier on the front exiges ofthe sides, see Fig. 2) ASSEMBLY. With only four pieces, there isn't much to assembling this case, see Fig. 6 Butthe bottompanel is allitle unusual. To leave room for the back piece, the bottom is cated 1" from the back edge of the sides, see Fig. 6a, And while the gueisdry- ing, you can mi up some epoxy and ue the steel pins into the sides. 128 Woodsmith 8‘A This door on this ‘breaabox is but scith common frame and panel constuction. But the pone isa piece of reeded gla, DOOR EXPLODED view Door & Case Back NOTE: sles ‘The breadbox door is a common ice frame and panel assembly that slides sae in and out on two steel pins, What © makes it unique fs its reeded glass panel, see photo. ({ ordered mine NOTE: Order fromalocal glass shop.) Reeded glass Baan door is thicker than ordinary 1A" glass, 0 qa] ERB View —) rather than cut grooves that might (‘ee be too big or too small, I purchased the glass before starting on the door. STIS & RAILS. With the glassintand, wore: Teutthe door sites (D) and rails (B) Se ne tosze om 'bickstockseeDoor CSN atari Exploded View. The goal here is a frame that holds the glass panel and fits between the case sides with about Ye" gap on each side. (The height is easy. Imademy door 9°4" tall) ‘GROOVES FOR GSS. Now, the grooves that hold the glass can be cut along the inside edges of the dor pieces, see Fig. 7. And it's a good idea to sneak up on the width of these grooves so theglass doesn't rate as the door is opened and closed, ‘Stub tenons are cut on the eads of the rails (E) next, ee Fig. 8, There's END VIEW Thickness of gas nothing tricky here. The tenons are sized to fitin the grooves you just cut. ASSEMBLY, There's one more thing, todo before assembling the door. To hold astee! pin, pilot holes drilled in the edge of each stile, see Fig. 9. “Then the rails and stilescan beglued around the glass, see Exploded View. ‘To complete the door, first rout a Inullnose on itsiop and bottom edges, ela, eet bt see detail ‘a’ in the Exploded View added plastic bumpers, see Fig: 10b, above, Then epoxy the steel rins in With the door in place, the baci theirholes and side the door inplace. _(F) can be added. Its justa panel with Novwtocushionthedoor asitsdosed, arabbet cut onits back edge, see Figs. Rout top and bottom eges afterassombly RAIL ea, steel pin 8 eee INOTE: size tenen io fit groove ‘ado bla @. FRONT VIEW case top) ‘To hold the back in place, I screwed ito the edge of the case bottom. SECOND: Aitach back END VIEW Aut, fence 10 ‘Wooslsmith 4: plastic Bono SIDE Secrion ewCUTTING BOARD , SECTION VIEW»... Cutting Board Brastknob When designing this breadbox Lfg- ured it should also have a cutting (a. SETON board. So I made one that slides into. the opening under the bottom panel, Pei see Cutting Board Section View. = =f marierane.Forthecuting bear's | BeiBnoe surface, I chose hard maple since it Prince arent wien hi ie ‘grain, which makes fora durable cut- ting board, se detai'a at righ. Nore: Mapte sos st To make the edge grain surface, pica Binasiaieal ip3ft=vide strips (G) from theedge a Z of Sthick stock, see Fig. 11. Then tur the pieces so the edge grainfaces ‘upand glue them into a panel, with a Ye! gap on cachside, sce Fig. scratched and cut with a bread knife. OAK EDGING, Ater sandingthepanel 13. Then slide the board under the HARDWARE. Finally, {added small smooth, Iadded a“skirt"tothefront case bottom to make sure its front brass knobs tothe door and catting and back edges see Section View and edge ends up ush with the door. I's board, see photo below. Then ty “i” Fig. 12. These /"thick oak stips of likely, though, that youllneedtoadd the board off the edging, I added edging (H) match the breadbox,and a spacer (I) to the beck panel, cee nylon chair glides under the maple they're a litle taller ((4') than the Section View. (Mine was 4",) panel. (the gides aren’ tall enough maple panel sothey'lalso hidesome APPLY FINS, Before adding the tolitthe edging ffthe table, youcan nylon chair glides (added later). hardware, I taped off the glass and shim them with washers.) FNAL FITTING, With the edging in finished the project with athin, wipe- Now all thats left is to bake some place, the cutting board can becutto on finish. It's the best choice for the bread, of if you're like me, take 2 fithetween the sides ofthe breadbox cutingboard sinceitwillend upbeing quick trip to the bakery. I ‘ast sand | Woste sEconD: Give 99k edging formeple pane! * and olue nel A nto ranel Once the daor is slid i place and the finish is applied, the brass knobs can be installed. ‘nore! Siaecusting board i arromer than ease opening No. 128 ‘Woodsmith nPie camps (bat tom) end ale aminur bar clamps (top) are borh reat or edge glu- ing or assembling lange projets. 2 TOOLS OF Bus eu) GETTING A GRIP ON CLAMPS Look through any woodworking catalog, and you'll find clamps in all manner of shapes and sizes. But which ones do you really need? ] -an still remember one of my first tamp-buying experiences. | was just getting into woodworking and after having made a few small pro- jects [fet ready to try making apiece of furniture. Naturally, this meant 1 would need more than the handful of "Clamps fd been using. So I bought the largest bar camps I could find — six feot in length. With clamps this size, Leould handle any projece that ‘would come along, or so I thought. What I didn’t realize is how impractical a sixfootlong clamp is Long Clamps ‘Whether 'm ghing up narrow boards to create awide pane! or assembling ‘scarease fora cabinet, Leouldsit got by without an assortment of long clamps. Most ofthese have a fixed head with a viselike screw on one end and an adjustable jaw that slides alongthe lengthof the clamp. Beyond this general description, there are a suumber of differences that set some clamps apart from others. for most small or medium sized pro- jects. Especially if you're working in a small shop.) As sound as my soning seemed at the time, I would have been better off purchasing smaller clamps — and more of them. But that was one lesson I had to learn the hard way. Before you buy your first clamp, a 00d question to ask is, “What kind of projects do I want to build?" After all, it doesn’t make much sense to hhavea val fll of bar clamps ifall you want to make is jewelry boxes. Ppecwnes. When it comes to edge: sting, you want clamp that’s trong ‘enoughto pull slightly seung boards straight and create tight glue joints. ‘The clamps I use mostoften for this job are the familiar orange Pony clamps, see lower clamp in photo at left. These are the kind that attach to-a length of 1" or Jstia, black icon pipe. (prefer the lewer’A" size) Pipe clamps have 2 number of things going for them. First, they're fairly inexpensive (as far as clamps go). And they have large threads and a My vig, beefy crank han- YP dle so you can really torque them down, F Another nie feature S about pipe clamps is > their flexibility Because you buy the iron pipe separately from the clamp fixture, i’s easy to ‘make up any length ofctamp you want in seconds. If you need a longer clamp, all you have todo is unscrew the clamp head and mount it onto a Jonger rie of pipe. (Or you can keep Woodsmith Here in the Woodsmith shop, we build a wide variety of both small and lange projects, Overal it's probably a good sample of the kinds of projects Dulltin many home shops. With drat inmind, !thoughtit might be helpful to take a look at some of the clamps that get used the most in our shop. Ofcourse, ike any other tool there fare bound (o be individual prefer- ences, So also try to point outsome of the features we like (and disike) about certain camps so that you can ‘make your own decisions, a couple ofthreaded pipe couplers on hhand so you can join two pieces of pipe in an “omergeney”) ‘Asmuchas Tike pipe clamps they do have a couple of drabacks. First, because of the round profile of the iron pipe, the adjustable jaw has a habit of loping out of tine with the jawaathe end ofthe clamp. This par- ticulary annoying when you'e trying to place a clamp across the front ofa wie cabinet orcarcase. But in my opinion, the biggest drawback to pipe clamps is their weight, This isn't a problem if you're using them to glue up a fat panel on top of your workbench or on the floor of your shop, But when you're using the clamps for assembly, the weight makes them a litle unwieldy and cumbersome. So for most large assembly jbs I like to use another kind of camp. -AUMINUM BAR ANS, Aluminum bar clamps work quite similar to pipe clamps. Bt instead of iron pipe al ‘minum bar clamps use (you guessed id) hollow bar of aluminum fr the boul of the clamp, see upper damp No, 128 a o uin photo. The aluminum makes them 2 lot lighter than pipe clamps, espe- cially in the longer lengths. (Aluminum bar clamps are sold in fixed lengths ranging from 24" to60") In addition to their light weight, aluminum clamps have another ben- efit Since the aluminum bar is rec- ‘angular in cross section (as opposed! to the round shape of the pipe) the ‘wo jaws of the clamp always stay in alignment with each other. So why not just use aluminum Well, therearea is. The first is cost. Aluminum clamps are nearly twice as expensive as pipe clamps (even. when you add inthe cost ofthe ripe). Buteven ifcost weren'tan issue, 'd still want to own some pipe clamps, That's because the feature that makes the aluminum damps so handy — their light weight — also works against them, The hollow aluminum bar tends to flex under heavy clamp- ing pressure, more so than the iron pipe clamps, (Iiyou want a really heavy-duty clamp, see the box below.) LOCKING MECHANISMS. There's one other thing about the aluminum clamps that I find a litle frustrating, Ithas to do with the locking mecha nism used on the adjustable jaw With the pipe clamps, the adjustable jaw ‘uses a spring and a stack of clutch *dises" to grip the pipe and lock the jaw in place, see detail ‘s' above. All you have to do is depress the spring Ifyouive got a clamping job that requires some heavy “muscle,” you may want to consider using clamps lke the one pic- tured at right. Unlike pipe clamps and aluminum bar clamps, the bar on this clamp is made out of a thick, solid steel Ebeam. Just lke a steel girder used in a bridge or skyscraper, the bar on this ‘clamp is incredibly strong and rigid. But the bar isn't the only ching about this clamp that’s heavy-duty. While the Jaws look similar to those on the pipe clamp, they're actually a bit larger and beefier, And even the crank handle is bigger, which translates into increased and slide the jaw along the pipe to exactly where you want But the adjustable jaw on the al minum bar clamps uses a spring: loaded paw! that locks into a row of notches, spaced 7" apart, see detail "b. The problem is thatwhen I slide the jaw against the edge ofthe piece Tm clamping, the pawl aways seme towind upin between two notches, So ‘Tieden Malleabie iron arester camping head and jovs pressure Come head ~ free onto ‘ne of lps Crank handle \forincreoses —Clomp head ‘orave "aluminum Ber Wing nut ‘rhe ALUMINUM BAR CLAMP constant Butwh brute str 1-BEAM CLAMPS leverage for more clamping torque, In fact, the whole thing is a litle bit like a pipe clamp on steroids. WEIGHT. Of course, all of this strength comes at the cost of increased weight. A Single 48!-capacity beam clamp weighs about 11 pounds — which is 50% more than a comparable pipe clamp and more than three times the weight of an alu- minum bar clamp. This probably explains why the Fbeam clampsin our shop don't get used too often, And the truthis that few ofthe projects webuild in the Woodsmith shop require this much clamping pressure. Woodsmith iran pipe Alyminam nood 9 fee Fat base allows ‘lamps to ret — Sninorkbenth ‘rshop floor ‘Adjustable jow can be stoned ‘njwhere slong Tength of poe PIPE CLAMP x" black sabe weit eion “ite” | Bar light andstreng iy find myself having to back the serew on the head of the order to move the jaw for: ward enough to allow the pawl to engage the notch, enitcomes right downtoit, Like having both types of clamps in my shop— the pipe clamps for their fength, and the aluminum, clamps for their light weight. (ist You might think that Fbeam camps have a hefty price tag to go along with their heavy-duty construction. Butsur- prisingly, they're not much more expensive than thealuminam bar clamps. 3Short Clamps Bven though fuse long clamps fly i often if could only have one type of clamp in my shop, it wouldn'tbe a sipeclanp or an aluminum barckanp. Instead, I would choose clamps like the ones shown in the photo below. This syle of barclamp is sometimes ferred 0 as an “clamp” because ofits shape. Tuse them on just about every project Ibi These clamps come in a range of lengths (6" to 36"). But the ones that most in our shop are ” clamps are used pretty much the same way tht you would use a Celamp, But . instead ofa fixed, onepiece frame, an F-clamp has an adjustable jaw that slides along a steel bar, see drawings at right, This makes them a lot quicker and easier to adj We have a couple cferent brands of Felamps in our shop, But when | took an informal poll to find out which is the favorite it seems that almost everyone (myself included) prefers clamps ike the one shown on the bot ‘om in the photo below and in the upper drawing a the right. (These clamps are part ofthe “Tradesmen” line of clamps manufactured by the Bessey company of Germany.) ist. Anassorement of RESSEY CLAMPS. As soon as you pick Jongensen (top) or upone ofthe Bessey clamps, youcan Bessey (bottom) see why they ae a favorite in our clampsis essential shop. The iron jaws are stout and ‘njustaboutany heavy. The screw has large, square woodworking shop. Acme threads, which are stronger than conventional Vahreads, The han- dle is big and beefy so you can real ly get a grip on it. And the jaws are even fit ted with Fredjow BESSEY F-CLAMP——Adjustbie jaw 4 serrations Protective _/ par a. iaw Trace ‘when eS | ee | i Ee E 5 JORGENSEN F-CLANP, “iii Wd Hone Pied jw: ‘Adjustable Q "aw plastic protector pads to prevent mar- Fing your workpiece. Tnadonto these estes Le ly like the ingenious quick-adjust mechanism of the jaws. The bar of a Bessey clamp has a rw of ny ser rations on the edge, like a 50-cent piece. Ase sere ited into the Jaw 0 that he tread ofthe screw sip the serrations in the bar see detail‘ Toast the camp all you have to do isslightly cock the jaw for- ward to disengage the threads and then slide the jaw along the bar, see deta‘ When yos let go, the Under Pressure. The near cuore QU) threads onthe set screw drop profile of the Acme threads, com- back don nto theserratons. bined wth the ge handle, give the “hereSistonelite problem campo therottortertoauethan wihthisarrangement Because he clamp onthe et Woodsmith No.128pv an tie wee thee @ Sivcectes, thon tsa enters th clamp, Ant you idk up the an by he Sed jw at heen, alan ep dom tebe totter Tsai ut reece, Youwonthaeto Closing down hbase per amp in hot on oposite ee Thats bcm clamp uses the sinetypeof mailed teh ten HN ae a he pp ins sede and These im trepthe sel Patents ase Evens comparing theorems tthe Bomoseen paring a poodle to bl. The cling buh ist dont have inlet ihe Bases Teast 80 the jaw stays ings an the stce!b @ ear ‘SPRING CLAMP, Spring clamps come in handy for holding smal, deicate pieces (like moldings) that might possibly be asan extra “hand.” Butiek ‘crushed with heavier clamps. @ caw renaimimtraeonacon cena spct aCcamp raged crate al parts together grip on the small handle of the Jorgensens. And I've lostcount of all the times I've wrapped my knuckles ‘on the protruding clutch dises while tightening one of these clamps. I still use the Jorgensens I already ‘own on occasion, but usvally only on. small projects. And since there's not nuh difference in cost between the ‘wo clamps, it's hare to justify ot pur- chasing the heavierduty Bessey ‘clampsover the Jongensens. CLAMP-BUYING STRATEGY So how many (and what type) of clamps do you really need? IfT were slarting over from seraich, first I'd buy a dozen Bessey Tradesmen clamps — in the 6" and 12" sizes, (Ve probably throv in a pair of 18 inchers just for good measure.) Then Pa buy a couple of pipe and a pair of 36° or 48 alu ‘minum bar clamps a good, alkaround assortment to start with. (You should be able to purchase all of these ckamps for right around $200.) Later, you can add more clampsas la your budget allows, Breaking & up this way also helps to take abit ofthe sting” out ofthe buying decision.) OTHER CLAMPS. What about other types of clamps? I've found that the. Felampsand the pipe and aluminum bar clamps handle about 95% of my camping jobs. That's not to say that swe don't use other types of clamps in the Woodsmaith shop, see the box below, But I would purchase these ‘only on an “as needed” basis. That way, you don't wind up with a lt of camps that just sit around your shop gathering dust. One other thing 1 try to avoid is buying too maay clamps that a dedicated to jus a single purpose (bicture frame damps or clamps for sluing edging onto plywood, for example), These specialty clamps tend to be on the expensive side. And unless you're doing a lot of repetitive tasks where you really need a specialized clamp, with a lit ile ingenuity you can usually find a way to make the clamps you aleady ‘own do the same job, Pe eee) eC eg of a traditional bar clamp. PISTOL-GRIP CLAMP. One-handed BAND CLAMP, For clamping up odd- ‘lamping action makes this camp useful shaped or cylindrical assemblies, band cks thestrength clamps work well hwo or three are prob- ‘ably enough for most projects, HAND SCREW. Although Idon'tuse them CORNER CLAMB. f you're doiny 2 lot of much for assembly, lke to havea couple repetitive clamping (like making picture cof hand screws around for hola ‘small frames) you might want to considera spe pieces while ding on a dil press. city damp such as this one, Woodsmith‘A To stengthen a ritered door frame, a kerf is cut in each commer and asolid wood spline is added. 16 Tips FROM OUR SHOP SHOP NOTES Open Splines The corner cabinet on page 26 features a door that's built with a mitered frame. ‘And because this frame has to support a large glass pane, I wanted to reinforce the miter joints, One quick and easy way to strengthen afame is to ad splines to the corners afters been glued togeth- et (called “open splines”) (UT RERF FOR SPLINE, The first stepistocuta kerf in each cor- ner of the frame, Butyounced some way to hold the frame in the correct position as its pushed through thesaw blade. Sol made a simple carriage jig, see photo at right ‘The jig is an H-shaped box that straddles the rip fence, see Fig.l below. To Ihold the frame, two support fences are screwed to the side ofthe fig at Now to cut each kerf, Fade fqn seh a aftntence ‘jwood Nore en Poation UL upport serene above fence: monuma height place the frame in the jig and raise the blafe to the desired height. There's only one rule about how Aaecep to cut the kerf: You want to avoid cutting through the inside corner of the frame or the inside corner of the rabbet if there's one on the frame, (On this door, I cut the Se Nore: Support a SECTION VIEW | ntti kkerfs only 114" deep, refer to Fig. 15a on page 32.) With the blade height set,adjust the fence so the kerf will be centered on the thickness of the frame and ccuta Kerf in each corner. op SPUNE, Next, spines can be added to the keris. They should fit snug but should also be oversized to begin with, see Fig.2.Ater applying the glue, I put a single clamp on eachjoint, using a couple scrap pieces to protect the wood. ‘When the glues dry, just saw off the "ears" of the spline with a hand saw and sand (or chisel) what's left until it's fush with the frame, see Fig. 3. 09 scones oti sow Weodsmith No. 128Shop-Made Router Edge Guide When using a hand-hele router, an edge guide is ‘great for routing dadoes, grooves, or profiles near the edge of a piece, see photo right. Most router manufacturers offer an edge guide-asan accessory, EDGE GUIDE EXPLODED VIEW cuts, so use amiter gauge to support the piece. But the cornercabineton page 26 requires using the rip fence to cut 45° bevels on the long edges of the pieces. There's nothing di ficult about “bevel ripping.” butt is good to keep.acou- ple of points in mine. POSITION FENCE, The first thing to dois decide where toposition therip fence. On some table saws the blade tilts to the left. on others to theright. Whats important is that the fence is posi tioned so the blade tilts ‘away fromit whenever pos sible, see Fig. 1. (There is an exception to this which Til explain in a minute.) With this setup, the piece is less likely to get “pinched” between the blade and fence and kickback at you. PoINt UP. ‘The other con: sideration comes into play when you are beveling both edges of a workpiece, On the second pass, you want No. 128 aut it's-no trouble at all build your own, An edge guideisjusta replacement base with an adjustable fence, see drawing. ast. cut the base ofthe edge guide from piece of hardboard, and its size isn't the Table Saw the beveled point of the piece (the one against the fence) tobe up offthe table, see Fig. 1. Otherwise, itean ‘wedlge under the rip fence. EXCEPTIONS. OF course, if the angles of thebevels are parallel, as they are in Figs, 2 and 3, then you've got to make an exception. If the piece isnarrow, it's safer to keep the blade tilted auay from the fence, but I carpet ‘ape it to a hardboard sled ‘oliftthe point offthe table, see Fig. 2. With a wide piece, I make both cuts with the blade titted totards the fence. This time, I can safe- ly and firmly push the piece through the blade, BOWED PlgcE. One more thing. Ifthe pieceis bowed along its length (and even plywood will be bowed ecasionally),it’simportant {fo keep it flat on the table. Soyyou'll have touse down. ward pressure while feed: ingit through the blade, see Fig. 4. Otherwise, the bevel won't be consistent. 5 al that important. 1 made mine big enough to give me “solid” support, but not so big as to be cumbersome, Inthe center ofthe base, youl need clearance forthe router bit, And the larger thehole, the easier beto see what you're rating. (i my base, Idriled a1/-ia, hnole with a spade bit) Finally, two slots are cut tohold the fence (nd allow itto be adjusted easily). view boy of EW orable Fovce, When making the fence, what you want is a straight, smooth edge to slide against the piece. (My fence Is hard maple, but 1 check it often to. make sure it hasn't warped.) Toattach the knee to the base, used carriage bolts, washers, and wing nuts, see detail. ch END View hand Point of bevel offoftable Woodsmith toward eee Bade tilted i a ep bowed piece Dressed downMODULAR STORAGE SHE By varying the eight ofthe side frames, you can build a shelving uapose. Woodsmith HELVING Here’s a modular system that can be customized and expanded to suit your needs. When you need more space, just add on another section. together. I's just a hunch, but my guess is that the rea- son they're so popular is because they can be assembled Auickly and can be expanded to meet just about any stor age need. Yet somehow, metal shelving se appropriate in a warehouse rather than in a woodworking shop. Ive always felt that there should be some way to ‘get the convenience of metal shelves without having to sacrifice the warm look and feel of real wood. ‘CONSTRUCTION. The shelving units you see here da just that, To start with, they're buile with relatively inexpen- sive, common grade, dimensional lumber (available at just about any hone center or lurmberyard). And since there isn’t any complicated joinery Gust simple half aps and some screws and knockdown hardware), you should be able to build them in afew days 'NODULAR DESIGN. But the most exciting feature about these shelving units is the fact that they're modular The units are assembled with connector bolts so when ‘you need more space all you have to do is bolt on anoth tr “section.” The connector bolts sso allow you to opt mize space by adjusting the individual shelves up ordown, tomatch the height ofthe items you're storing. But you cean also customize the system by making the shelving units different heights, see lower photo at left. STRENGTH. One thing that’s always a concern with any tall shelving unit like this one is sabily. Ifthe shelves rack or twist, the whole unit is likely to come crashing down, We've taken care of that in a couple of ways. Firs, the sides of each unit are sendwiched between a couple of caps to create an “Lbeam.” This stiffens the sides and prevenis them from flexing. Second the shelves are bolted rigidly to the sides, acting like bridges to support the whole structure. Infact, the more shelves you use, the stronger the structure, ‘PEARANCE. While they're strong and simple to build, think the real benefit of these shelves lies in their appear ance. They're sturdy enough to use ina shop, yet attrac tive enough fora laundry room, a dorm room, or even a chilt’s bedroom. And if you were to build them out of another kind of woo, ike oak, for example, you could even ‘use them in a living room. No. 128_ © j \@ Construction Details OVERALL DIMENSIONS: Prix Sew A ID ‘TOP SECTION view ‘OF TWO CONNECTED UNITS iE Shelves can Devaied or lowered. Reeded fod ca Sindh Side frames Seating Cleats strengeien, Selves to support hreawy objects NOTE: All pieces Cuttrom commonly Timber 4"st008) Svallble dimensional Frames ae eg leveler 1 ‘| fetes a MATERIALS & SUPPLIES _ CUTTING DIAGRAM (inci tai section) A Stiles (4) B Rails (6) © End Caps (4) D Shelf Siets (21) E Shelf Cleats (14) F Braces (7) G Brackets (2) WxM"- 77% 15-15 Wxm-778 Hx Oh -30 WxDh- 19% Wx 14 Wx 1M 112 96" #2 Ponderosa Pine ie x12 96° #2 Ponderosa Fine IIIT IPTT EE TIEIE ENTE a A * Aso Needed Approximately 18 ft of 44" quarte-sound molding. + (G6) #8 x 1¥4" Fh Woodscrews + (84) #8 216" Fh Woodscrews | + (28) %"-20x 1%" Connector Bolts + (28) ¥"-20 Cap Nuts + (@) %'-20 Leg Levelers (1%6" dia.) + @)Ya"-20 nuts * Note: Youtl need some 2~iong connector bolts to atach two units together No. 128 WoodsmithSides “There are two basic components to this shelving unit — a pair of sides and the shies that span between them, Most ofthe strength of the shelving unit comes from the fact that the sheles are bolted to the Sides, creating a rigid structure, But taken individually, both the shelves and the sidesare built to resist rack: ing and twisting as wel, EEAM CONSTRUCTON. Each side is made upofatal, narrow frame sand: vwiched between a pair of end caps, see Side Expbded View at right. The ind with halflapsand fits into a groove cut along the center of ‘each cap, The result is an “Fbeam” that’ rigid and resists twisting much better than the frame alone would Each frame is made up of five pieces —apair ofstiles (A) and three ‘ails (B). I sarted by cutting all the stiles and ras to size for each side, taking care to get all the identical pieces fo the same length and width, Wa es, With al the frame pieces cutto size, you can start making the half lap joints that hold everything together. Half laps arent dificult to make, but if you've never done it ‘before, you might want to taka look atthe article on page 24 first. You can useatable saw anda dado blade to make the half laps, But to avoid having to repeat the setups on your saw try cutting al the half aps in the rails rst. Thenafteryou'vefin- ishedwiththose, move onto thesis. For the rails, simply use the tip fence asa stop to establish the shoul der ofeach halt lap, see Fig 1. Now remove the waste between the shoul- derand the end ofthe workgiece with ‘xlitional passes over the dato blade (Anawiliary fence attached to the iter gauge will help to prevent cchipout during the shoulder cut.) ‘To cut the half laps on the ends of the long stile pieces, T used the ‘same procedure. Just reposition your rip fence by moving t away from the blace so the half laps in the stiles will match the width of the rails. ‘When teame to creating the cross lapsin the middle ofthe stiles, 1 ‘went about things a litle differ. ently, Because of the distance between the cross lap and the end of the stile, Touldn't use my rip fence as a stop. So instead, | marked the location ofthe shoulders of the cross. laps directly on the stiles. Then [just removed the material between these layout marks, see Fig. 2 Ree Woodsmith 128FRAME ASSEMBLY. Once all the half lags are finished, you can assemble RST Clamp the frames. It takes a pretty good | MOTE che Ges engin ‘supply of clamps for this task, since sure its square ‘of frame teach frame needs to be clamped across its length, its width, and on its face to make sure the pieces seat properly, see Fig.3. Ifyou don't have that many clamps, you can use i long screws instead, see photo in margin at right, DRL HOLES, Before going any further with the sides, this fsa good time to dll the holes in the frames forthe knock-down fasteners. In order for go the shelves tobe interchangeablei’s important wo keepthe spacing of these holes consistent. If you don’, youl A To help speed assembly, serews ‘can be used in place of lamps tohen euing np the have a difficult time later when it outteed Jame pieces, comes to assembling the entire unit ee NOTE Apts sepa sialne aaah ble ‘To make things easier, I drilled the Yaa, holes on adil press, using ‘a fence to keep the holes in a straight line, see Fig. 4 wD CAPS With the frames compete, itstimetoassemble the Feam struc |__ ture by adding the end capa.’ end caps (C) arejust narrow boards center, see Figs, 5and5a inorderto Before adding the caps to the witha groovecutdown thecenterto ensureagood ftbetweenthegroove fames, all the sharp edges are accommodate the frame, ee expiod- and the fame,aswellastocenterthe removed with a router and a Yé"- ei view on opposite page. groove on the width oftheend cap, radius round-over bit Startby round ‘There’s not mich to making the “snucleup" on the width c'the groove ing over the ends first. Once theend end caps. After cutting the pieces toby takingmuliple passes fipping the grain has been routed, you can round suze, ashallow groove iscutdownthe — workpiece end for end inbetween, overall the longedges, see Fig. 6 Finally, the end caps are glued to EY ore eon = the edges of the frames, The key here Seen eNO VIEW is to keep the caps sauare to the Thickness ffames while clamping them up. The sroovesin the capshelp lite, bt aso used a simple trick. To prevent the caps from angling in or out, Tjust cutafewspacer blocks to fitbetween the caps, like you see in the photo below, Clamped to each side of the frame, the spacer blocks supportthe Spacer blocks keep 7 ‘ila, holes | on centers for ‘agembled | “onnector bol, ‘tame ‘capsatarightangletotheframe.cre. ‘he caps square as ating perfectly shaped “.” ieee V the fame Wooddsmith aAccouple of Alien wrenches i allt takes o assemble the knock-down hardware used in the shluing unt. Theshelves ofthis storage unit serve ‘dual purpose. Obviously, their main functions toholl whatever tems you place on them. But they also act as. stabilizers, rigidly connecting the to sides and providing a great deal of lateral strength to the entire uit. ach shelfismade up ofthreeslats, see the Shelf Exploded View. Acleat is screwed to each end of the shelf, creating a strong right angle and pro- viding a means of fastening the shelves tothe sides. I started making the shelves the ssame way that Imade the sides —by cutting the pieces to size. Each shelt (made seven for the tall unit) con: sists ofthree lats (D) and two cleats (E), To make it easier to cut these pieces to length, Iset upa stop block. on my miter gauge. DRILL HOLE, With all the pieces cut to size, the next step is to dril the holes in the cleats for the knock- down fasteners Just lke driling the holes in the frames, it’s important to position these holes accurately. ‘They should fine up with the holes in the frames, To help automate this process, I again used a stop block, this time clamping ito the fence on my drill press, see Fig. 7. Aassenaty, The sats get arounndover routed onthe top edges and ends, as, does the lower inside edge of each leat, see detalls‘ and ‘c. Then you ccan assemble the shelves by gluing ‘and screwing the slats to the cleats, leaving" sjace between the slats. #RAG. To help stiffen the shelf slats and prevent them from sagging, a brace is added to the underside of ‘each shelf. This brace (F) isjust a narrow piece af wood that is beveled apo 57 ne) <6 ee 1a" af a : oe Sg a iat, a = = %, = ‘bottom: 8x2!"F eront section view | foundover 71 onal . cdgesond bel» a dln at both ends, see Figs: 8 and 8a Its than a bolt witha wide, fathead. WL Screwed tothe botomofthe ats, Using an Allen wrench, the bolt is QUARTER ROMO. As an added pro- threaded ito a nat hatha an iden tection against racking, T glued teal wide, Hat head As the nat and tenghs of! quartersound molting boltaretghtened they pllthework- to the inside corners of each shelf, pieces together. see Figs. 8 and 8a. This molding To install the shelves, start from helps to tie the cleat and the slats the bottom and work up, Slide each together, stiffening the shelf dawn from the top and fasten it ‘Note: When applying the quarter- with the connector bolts. The job is, round molding, make sure to glue it made much simplerifyou havesome- to both the cleat andthe siats. one hold the shelves while youinstall ‘CONNECTOR Bolts, Assembling the the bolts. Butifyou're working alone, shelving unit is just a matter of bolt- it may be easier to assemble the ing the shelves to the sides. To do shelves on top ofa large workbench this, fused connector bolts, see photo and then tip the whole unit up onto the in margin, These are nothing more floor after i's assembled. 2 Beace Fo waurrer SS welding £~ NOTE: Quarterround molding should begived Woorlsmith No. 128LEVERS, Since most garage and basement floorsare anything but lat and level, you'll probably need away to level out the shelving unit. The solution to this is quite simple. Tust uta couple of leveler brackets (G) and inserted a Tnut at each end, see érawing at right Then the brackets are glued and screwed to the inside face of each side, Finally aleg evel ris threaded into each T.nu. ‘MODULAR DESIGN. One of the nice things about this project is that it's modular. You can add on extra units a any time, see photo at right. And they don’t have to be the same size, just so long as the hole spacing on the sidesis the same, see box below Ifyou're planning on making tional units, all you have to make isan ‘extra st of shelves and one extraside for each section you want to add That's because the ext bolts right to the first unit. All you have to do is replace the shorter con rector bolts with longer ones, The shelves of each unit are placed on dither side of the common side frame, and the connector bolts pass through, all three assembles FISH, Even if you're just planning to use thie project in your shop, you may want to wipe on a couple coats of an oll finish. (@ used General Finishes.) Being a softwood, pine has a tendency to get marked up ‘easily from objects bumping or rub- bing against it. The finish will help to minimize any marks, Pius, I think the project just looks nicer with a couple coats of finish, 1 No, 128 connector op a poxte Prat mance 9-20 nut 4-20) leg ieveer [| | ron. SeeON, View secrion view i. throvgh "ie Connector menor 16 connector ot Wee "20 leg teveler ‘counierunke we Shank hole Toad on another section, you'll need to build an extra set of shelves, but only ‘one additional sid, Making a shorter version of the shelving unit is simply a matter of decreasing the length of the stiles ‘and end caps, see drawing at right. ust make sure to maintain the same spacing for the connector boltsasen the fullsize shelving unit) In addition, the center rail can be eliminated on each side, Other than this, all the rest of the parts and the construction ar the same as with the fullsize unit. WoodsmithWOODWORKING TECHNIQUE H:« Japs have two great benefits — strength and speed. The joints are strong because there’ alot of facetorface surface for a good glue joint. At the same time, half laps are quick because both halves of the joint can be cut on the table saw — often with the exact same setup. And if you're making multiple joints (which is often the case) this can save you a lot of time. ‘There's nothing mysterious about aahalflap joint. Half the thickness of thestocktis removed from each piece 0 both overlap and their faces are flush. The trickis to get the pieces to fit together nice and even, without any visible gaps between the shoul ders, But this isn't difficult to do it you follow a few simple techniques. STOOK THES. Before even thinking about making that first cut, youneed tocheck and make sure that al your workpieces are exactly the same thickness, Why? Because if they're not, it will be impossible to cut the Iralflaps so the mating pieces are flush ‘on both faces. Shop Tip: Ifyou have thickness planer, it's good lea to run all your stock through it before you begin, just to make sure all the boards are a uniform thickness, SETUP, In most cases, I use @ table ‘saw and a dado blade to cut haiflaps, the pieces are small, sometimes. use a router table instead) But regardless of which tool you are using, the fist step inthe setup pro- cedureis the same. Youneed to adjust the height of the blade (or bit) so it cuts exactly half way through the thickness of your stock, But I don't use a ule to set the blade height. Instead, Istart by seting the blade slightlybelow the halfway point. Then using atest piece (one thats the samme thickness as my workpieces) ,T grad ually sneak up on the height, see Fig 1.To do this, just make a cut on the end of the test piece, Then flip the piece ver and make a second cut on the same end. You should have a thin “iver” left over. ‘Now just aise the blade a hair and repeat the process, removing a litle ore from each side ofthe sliver until it's completely removed. When itis, the blade willbe set at half the thick- ness of the workpiece. To double check this set up, i's a ‘good idea to cat a sample joint. Cut a half lap on the end of a couple of test pieces an¢ fit the pieces togeth- er, see Fig. 2. By running your fin- ger over the joint, you should be able to feel any shoulder that might be present. Ifthe pieces aren't lush, youll need to adjust the blade up or {down depending on whether the lap is too shallow or deep. There's one other thing to hep in mind when adjusting the height of the blade and when ‘comes to 1» FRONT VIEW neigh ace eight nto passes, flping piece between asses ‘Aus fence” Faves of pieces shoul be ash | Tes pce must be ame thickness ss workpieces Woodsmith No. 128cutting the half laps in your actual workpieces. The depth of cut can be affected by any bowing in the board or even the amount of pres sure you apply to the face of the boards as they pass over the blade. So try to Keep the downward pres: sure on each board consistent as you're cutting the half laps. Once you have the blade height set, youre ready to start cutting the ‘aps, Whether you're cuting the laps on the ends of the workpieces (end laps) or in the middle of the work- piece (across lap), you can use the rip fence asa stop to establish the shoul der(s) of the joint, see Fig. (Provided the workpiece doesn't exceed the capacity ofyour rip fence) HOLA. To cut an end lap, [like to start by establishing the shoulder with the first pass, see Fig 4. Thea the rest of the waste can be removed by making multiple passes over the Ulade, sliding the workpiece over between each pass ‘CLEANING UP THE CHEEKS, After you've cutthe hatflap pick up the workpiece and turn it overto examine the sur- ‘ace ofthe half lap. You may find that the dado blade has let behind tiny ¥idges and grooves. These ridges and srooves can prevent the two pieces from making full contact when assembled. So it’s a good idea to remove them as best as you can. ‘One way to do this is to stowly push the piece sidetoside over the blade, see Figs, 5 and 5a asstuatt, When your're ready to slue up the balflap joints, the thing tn remembers that each joint needs tobe clamped inthree directions see Fig. 6 First clamp along the length ‘and width of the joint, checking to Remove waste hae FST Cams cos rine 10 Gat ‘houses tight comers to draw| [eee make sure that the assembly is square, Then Llike to apoly clamping pressure to the face of the joint to hold the two pieces together. (R055 APS. When it comes to cut ting a cross lap on short workpieces, you can use the rip fence as a stop to establish both shoulders (You'll have to reposition the fence for each shoulder) But with longer work: pieoes (ike the stiles in the shelving unit) the capacity of your rip fence might not be great enough to use the fence as a stop. In this ease, T use a different approach. Fics [carefully lay out the ends ‘of the cross lap on the top face of my workpiece, see Fig. 7. Then 1 attach a long auniliary fence to my Woodsmith miter gauge to support the work: piece. By marking the path of the dado blade right on the auxiliary fence, [have a visual reference for lining up the blade to the layouttines on my workpiece, see Fig. 7.11 Ua lee Co Occasionally, well get a letter warning us bout the danger of using the rip fence as stop when pushing apiece withthe miter gauge, The danger is thatthe cut-off piece ‘ean kick back at you. And we agree. You should never cut completely through a ‘workpiece using both the rip fenee and ‘miter gauge at the same time, But the key word here is “completely.” When cutting half laps, you're not cutting completely through the workpiece, so there's no cutoff niece to kick back at you. 5HANGING CORNER CABINET The challenge with this cabinet isn’t complicated joinery — it’s clamping it all together. Learn all the simple assembly tricks we used. ‘require angled cuts, And unless you're careful the joinery can end tup rather complicated. Not here. This cabinet couldn't be much Simpler I's essentially a triangular- shaped case with aface frame and a door. There are quite a few 45° ‘cuts to make, but the joinery is pretty straightiorward. The real challenge came when it was time to put the case pieces together. Since most other projects have four-sided cases, the goal is toend up with a square assembly. Not with a corner cabinet. ‘The trick here was figuring out exactly how toclamp the workpieces tight and ‘keep them aligned, To hold the odé-shaped assem: blies together, band clamps often ‘amen handy. Buteven with band ‘amps, the pieces would slip out of alignment as pressure was applied, and afew assemblies took: ‘couple “dry runs" before Leould come up with a sotation for hold ing everything tight an aligned. But you needit worry. share all the litle tricksT came up with,and the assemblies on this cabinet shouldn't give you any trouble at al BEST FACE FORWARD, The funny thing about the angles in a corner cabinet js thatthe only person who really sees them is the builder. He has to deal with the angles when cutting and assembling the workpieces, butonce the cabinet is hung in the corn there's really only one face that’s vis ible. there's one thing to say about corner cabinet, its that italways pats its best face forward. oOR, Because ofthis, alotof atten tion will get focused on the door — anditts worth a close ook. Itappears tohave four small openings, each with its ovn pane of glass. But these dividers are simple halflapped pieces, ‘nd the glassis a single pane thats belrind the dividers. However, my favorite door detail js the simple shoulder on the inside edge of each frame piece. It doesn't require any fancy router bits butere- ates an effective shadow tine, INSTALLATION. I briefly mentioned hanging this project, and I should probably reassure you that there ‘wont be any need fora forklit oreven Woodsmith an assistant to hang this cabinet For one thing i’ built with 4" ply ‘wood soit isnt quite as heavy as one built with 8" thick material. Uf you can't find 14" cherry plywood, pur- chase maple plywood and either stain itto match yourcherry, orbetter yet, cover one face with cherry veneer) But the real back saver isthe two- part, interlocking cleat system that's tused to mount the cabinet, One piece isserewed tothe corner; theother to the case, Itmiakes installing this cab- inet almost as easy as hanging acoat on a peg, See page 34 No. 128Construction Details OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 27%" x2356WXITD 1o;part inter Toeking dese, mae instllaton Simple and sturdy open” solies a otitet at seembtes oor forsrength Face frame stile beveled ¢o lah ‘agaist wal ule catch ‘door Alpleiood is Tastee or ting Saga, ‘ee poge Edges of plywood case covered by thick face frame Diver ri is oinees nits halt ptand ‘ndded after door ‘eosrembled Defi : pineal tia \ esti as —fecuned with ‘gas stop MATERIALS & SUPPLIES A Case Sides (2) Yeoy.-11%ex24¥% K Bottom Trim(1) %4x 134-24 rgh. _* (2) Yo" Hardboard Splines (/s"x 23%") B Case Back (1) 34x 2% 24% L Bottom Bead (1) %4x 1%- 24 rah, + (4) W" Solid Wood Splines (1%4" x 3") € Top/Bottom (2) Yepi.-7%x18 MDoorStiles(2) 94x 1%-23% ——_* (1) Yr-thick Glass Panel (14¥4" x 20%") D Case Stiles(2) %4x2-24% N Door Rails (2) 3x 19%- 16% + (10) #4 x34" Fh Brass Woodscrews E Case Rails) 34x34. 17¥ergh, © Horiz, Divider (1) Yex3e- 10% + (1 pe) 134" 2! Brass Ball-tipped Hinges F Case Shelf(1) Ye py. -6%Ax 15% Vert. Divider(1) %x3%-20% + (1) t%dia, Brass Knob: @ | shetedcing ty vxte-17 Q Glass Stop (i) ¥%x%4-75Ln.In, + (3) Ye" Spoon-style Shelf Supports H Top Tim (1) 34x2-26 coh R CaseCleat (I) 4x 84-2 1 Top Ctr. Trim (1) Yex1%-261qh. — $ WallCleat (1) — ¥x 34-316 + (@) #8 x 1%" Fh Woodscrews J Top Bead (1) — Yax1¥4-26 rah.‘ T Mounting Bock (1) 342 - 7 + (2) #8. 2% Fh Woodscrews No, 128 Woodsmith 27 mmm tSCASE VIEW note: sack is "ethiee all other pieces are? plywood Nore: Aner ‘eretsmar ‘eftand sights 8 Case Asyouccan seein the Case Exploded wabove thiscornercabinei starts, out asa simpletriangularshaped case. ‘There's just two sides joined toa nar row back with panels atthe top and bottom. The challenge comes when it’s time to clamp these pieces together, but getto that in aminate, SIDES & BACK began building the cease by cutting the sides and back to length, see Exploded View. The to sides (A) are cut from 1" phywood, ‘The back (B) S%A"thick solidwood, BevEiD £068, Both the back and side pieces have long edlges that are beveled 45°, Butifyou'l look closely at Figs. Ia and 2a, you can see that these bevel arent oriented the same, so there are two different setups. However, these setups are similar in one important way: The rip fence ispositioned so that whenit’sime to make the second pass, the tip of the first bevel willbe up offthe table, see igs, 1a and 2a This way the tip won't wwedige under the ip fence. (For more on bevel ripping, see page 17.) decided tocutthe back piece first. Here, the bevels should oppose each other, and thesaw blade i tied 45° away from the rp fence, see Fig. 1 ‘Onthe casesides the angles of the bevels are parallel, This means you have to move the fence to the other side ofthe blade, as shown in Fig. 2a. ‘With the bevels cut, isa good idea to take a minute now and designate 2a 7 Kort for face Framesplines ee page a which panel is going to be the left and which will be right. In fact, labeled the top of the good (inside) face of each because i's eagy fo get confused later cn when cutting the joinery and Ailing the holes forthe shelf pins. Woodsmith oe = LL: ‘NOTE Tormore of bevel toning, Se RABBETS & DADOES. The only joinery on this case is simple rabbets and Qy dadoes cut on the back and sides, Identical dadoes are cut to hold a" plywood bottom, see Fig. 3. Then rab> betsare cut fora 1A" plywood top, see No, 128Fig. The only thing unusual about these cutsisthattheyre made onthe @ ‘good faces (the ones you labeled) 7 ‘because these end up iviside the case, ERE FoR SPUNE. Later after the case is assembled, a ‘ace frame will hide the edges ofthe plywood. To align the long vrticalpieces, I planned to use splines, which means. kerfneeds to be cut in the front (beveled) edge ofeach side piece, see Figs. 5 and 5a. HOLES FoR SHELF PWS Before moving «n,|driled some holes in each piece for shelf pins that support an adjustable shelf, see Case Exploded fiew and details at left. But don'trush thisstep.Theholesned tobe li out and drilled accurately or the shelfmay rock when added later: OP 90TON, To hold the case des and back together, I made fop and Zottom (C) panes that tin the rb bets and dadoes, ee Case Expleded View. The ene’ ofthese pieces are cut 45, but thistime, youl need to angle the miter gauge, as shown in Fig. 6. And sincethese pecesnccd to @ be identical, I carpettaped the blanks together before mitering them, ASSEMBLE CASE. At fs, assembling this case waslik building ahouse of cards, Each time I tightened the camps the pieces would lina heap But don't worry. eventually cameup vith a neat little ick to avoid this ‘The olution vas touse temporary scrap blocks with beveled edges, see the photo below. These create an inside corner for the side pieces to wedge into, see inset photo, (The tevels onthe blocks keep the Eand cdamps closeto the sides ofthe case) However before you screw the blacks to the back piece, they need to be waxed thoroughiyso they won'tend uppermanently zhed tothe case “Toassemble the case started by | ee ams ea |” 4 fence a | een | eles | aun \o ; | le {| fc ees | |feme| “e ar P 2 Ni > | Vee [END View ve ae elds ee | tut ker forapine ages, K applyinga slow-setting glue (such as the glue dries, simply unscrew liquid hide glue) to the back piece these serap blocks from and sliding the two sidesinto the “cor the back piece. ners" created by the blocks Then the top and bottom panels ean be added and band clamps wrappel around the assembly to hold it together. When A. Dering assembly, beveled serap blocks serewed to the back pice create temporary stops for the side panels o butt up canst (se inset at rght). WoodsmithA To clamp the ends of rails, used a pene «a serap block to extent the jets of the clamps. Face Frame & Shelf itmay seem a bit early to think about how this cabinet fs going to hang in acorner—afterall the case sithas plywood edges that need to be cov- ered. But the fae frame that covers the plywood now will also help the cabinet fit tight into a corner later ‘The problem is that many walls aren't straight or square, and theca- inet could end up with gaps at the sides, So I built the face frame so it cks past the case, see Exploded View at right. This creates two *con- tact points,” so there's less chance for wide gapsatthe sides ofthecase. SMHS. The pieces that actualy stick. past the case are the stiles (D), see Exploded View. And to get their edges tofittight against the wal the ‘outside edges are beveled To keep the siles aligned as they’re glued to the case, 1 planned to use splines. And since the kerfsinthecasesides have already been cut (refer to ig. 5on page 29), all youneed todonowisto cuta mating kert in each site, see Fig. 7 ‘The hardboard splines the Keep thesilesaligned wih the md case, butwhile ratcheting down on the band clamps, I noticed that the inside edges of the stiles were pulling away from the case. So as shown in Fig. & I cut scrap 2x4 caus that extended cross the front. These redirect the clamping pressure, forcing the stiles at azainst the case, Plusthey protect the fag ite beveled points on the stiles ALS, With the stiles in place, the rails (B) can be cut to fit between them, They're glued flush with the upper edge of the top and bottom panels, as shown in detals‘a’ and 'c? inthe Exploded View above. Te trek is getting clamps on the ends of the rails, Fortunately, you don't need a Jot of pressure here, and the javs of each clamp can be “extended! using ‘apeneiland a serap block, seephoto. sw, With the face frame complet, Ighted apiece of ciging (G) toablank forthe shelf (F) and then mitered the ends like the top and bottom panel, see the Exploded View and detail’! above, as wellas Fig. 9a ight FACE FRAME EXPLODED VIEW srue®: ore et ahr tn @ “kl cteraeee, & cut from 32° stock. WoodsmithTrim To “dress up" the top and bottom of the cabinet, I added trim molding. ‘Though the pieces are separated in the Exploded View at right, what the top trim molding ends up looking like isa thick blank witha double curve ‘an bead profile. Normal this would require a shaper, but since the blank isbuilt up from thinner pieces, allyou need are afew router bits. Tr Tim The cp moldings worked «one piece at atime, but keepin mind that these blanks need to be cut longer than the width ofthe case. ‘(Mine started out 26" long.) “Tobegin, the tp crim (H) ieato width from %A"thick stock and a roundover is routed along one edge. “Then a 4"'thick blank, the top cen ter trim (1), is. ued to the top tm, see detal odd Vi With wet gue, these pieces want to slide around like a pair of circus seals, s9tokeep them aged, etthem on their backs and pressed down on them while tightening the lames “Asyou can seein detail’ above, the thick center tim gets a rout ‘ed cove profile, which makesit biend seamlessly into the top trim. But because the bit ends up under thetop trim, the profile needs to be routed with a "ela, core box bt. (Unlike a cove bit, a core tox bit doesnt have bearing that would getin the way) To set the molting apart fromthe case, thick tp bond (J isadded to the center trim, see detail ‘c' inthe “Top Trim Exploded View: This piece edi up prety small soto round over eriges safely, like to tart wth 0 wide piece of stock. After routing, the blank can be ripped to width and 1 he ie roundover Z Bank te top 7 ‘before routing nore: Teptim lecenstart ut 26" Tong Seton case nd mar length «glued to the bottom of the molding ‘lank (with the backs fush as before) ‘mitie SLANK, For the molding to match the case, the short, inside edges need to be the same length, see Fig. 10a, So after mitering one end of the molding asin Fig. 10, set iton the case to mark thetinal length ‘When gluing the molding to the case, the tricks to keepit flush with TOP TRIM EXPLODED VIEW the inside of theface frame, see Fig. 1a, So to do this, I clamped narrow support blocks 1 the inside face of «ach sie, a you can seein Fig. 1. BOTTOM TN. The bottom trim mold- ing is built just tke the top, see Fig 12, This time, though, there are only two pieces. The bottom trim (Khas 424 cove and ised tothe bottom, ead (L), whichis shown in Fig. 12a. Molding “tian eerie) ®@. ‘orrom sean Mente No, 128 Woodsmith 31Door ‘The door is the last thing to add to this cabinet — and also the most inter- esting, see photo Itsa mitered frame ‘set in the face irame of the case. And with its cornersplines, divided lights, and decorative shoulder, there's plenty to keepa woodworker busy. SIMPUFED CONSTRUCTION. Don'tworry about being overwhelmed, This door has been simplified in a number of ways. For instance, rather then add the splines during assembly, they're putin after the frame is built. And the same holds true for the dividers. Divided lights, a ‘They're not “built-in” to the frame, decorative shoul- Instead, theyre added later. Plus, der, and elegant __these thin dividers don'tactually hold hardware make four individual pieces of glass. They're this door a striking merely decorative and set in front of focal point of the a'single, large pane, come cabinet. ABBE. As you can sce inte Door Exploded View, this mitered frame is made up of stiles (M) and rails (N) like most doors, But what sets this ‘one partis recessed borderon the inside edge ofeach piece that creates a decorative shoulder. And after cut ting this rabbet, nudged the rip fence cover and euta second rabbet onthe inside face of each door piece, see Fig. 13. (This one will hold the glass.) miTERS. Nowall the door pieces can be mitered to length. This is actually pretty straightforward. Just measure the face frame opening and subtract about fromeach dimension. say “about” because Tike to cut thepioces abit long so there's a litle extra for ; fitting the door in the opening later.) POCKETS. Later, after the frame's put together the two dividers wil inside ft. And as youcan see in Fig. 17, the ‘endl ofthe dividers wil it into shal low pockets onthe inside face ofthe frame. I created these pockets now, 80. 1 did't have to postion and support A mitered comer can be pulled tig wich simple sviangdar-shaped clamping blocks To seehow, tem to page 5. 2 GZ Zs Airy Vertes Dado (2 bade NOTE: carer [Py Strwortpiece nore oor frame ee thick co 1, [ew view @ fos foie + | te square eb cl an assembled frame al the drill press. Bach pocket is just a half lap drilled with 2 Forstner bit and cleaned up with achisel, see Fig.14. assumaty. There's no good way to ‘Woodsmith lamp up a mitered frame in one shot, oT usually glue up the corners by hand, But the photo at left shows a another way of doing this that was recently sent in by a reader, Chris No. 128Gamsky. (Refer to page 5 for more information on this handy tip) ‘SPLINES. After the glue is dry, you can add the splines that reinforce the ‘corners of the frame. But Fig. 15 only tells the first half ofthe story. After cut- ting a kerf with a shop-made jig, you ‘need to glue in solid wood splines and trim them flush, see page 16. DIRS, Now thatthe frame iscom- plete, you can order the 14" glassfor the door and begin work on the dividers. The 54thick horizontal (O) and vertical dividers (P) are cut oft inthe pockets in the frame. (Measure the frame opening and add 1") Like the pockes, the joinery here isbasically just haff laps, so you might vant to take a peak atthe article on | page 24. The dividers are joined in the center with cross laps, see Fig: 18, And Fig. 17 shows the ends con- necting to the pockets in the door frame with end leps. ‘With both setso hal lps, geting ‘ the front aces shi whats rite Sp always check theft rom the font ofthe door. Also, even though youre ater a gap-ree ft, dont make the dividers so tight hat they “bend"the ‘door frame when glued in the place. Cn believe me they can) ‘GLASS STOP. To hold the glass, I made some gas stop (that gets screwed to the door, see Exploded View and No. 128 Divine EXPLODED VIEW “Ss Soe nore Dinners cu fom ti ‘Hort ut at Sock se i. 1 detail ‘a’ above. This stop “wraps” around the shoulder on the back, but it’s best to cut the rabbet before rip- ping the stop to width, see Fig. 18. MOUNT 900R. Before mounting the doorin the case, i's nots bad idea to remiove the glass from the door. As shown in detail ‘a’ below, I mortised each hinge into the edge of the éoor ‘and simply screwed it to the face frame on the case, WARDWIARE, I tried to keep the hard- imple and elegant, so I chose Yala bright brass knob, see Fig 19. And the door is held closed with a ‘small barret-tyle bullet catch. NTE: Remove gos 2d finishing door er hinge morte n oor ony WoodismithA This cu-away tiew shows just row easly (and securely) the beveled cleats interlock, Hanging the Cabinet Athough the cabinet is built, it still needs to be mouated into a corner But at this point, the cabinet wil only toach the walls at two points — the beveled edges ofthe face frame in front. So lereatedathiral point of con- tact at the back using beveled cleats, asshown in the Cleat Exploded View. The nice thing about using cleats you don’t have to hold the cabinet in place while attaching itto the wall. (Geral, even though its smal this cabinet isn't necessarily light) The cleats ae attached tothe back ofthe case and to the corner studs. Then hanging the case cleat on the wall cleats as simple as hanging upa coat. ‘CASE CLEAT. I started with the {" thick case cleat (R), see Exploded ‘View and detail ‘e' above. This short piece is beveled slong its two edges +30 it matches the back of the ces. ‘Then the bottomend is also beveled 48° to create hook, and the cleats screwed tothe case. WALL CLEA & MOUNTING BLOCK. The part of the mounting system that gets Lear EXPLODED VIEW Preedierew attached to the wall is actual up oftwopieces. Both the wall cleat (S) and mownting block (1) are 9h thick and beveled on their edges like the case cleat, see Exploded View: To interlock with the “hook” on the case cleat, the top end of the wall cleat is also beveled 45°, Then the wall cleat can be glued and screwed to the ‘mounting block, see detail’b' above “Thereare a number ofwaysacor ‘a. SECTION ‘ner may be built so the studsin your corner may not be exactly as shown ‘in etail'c’ Buti’simportant to ithe studs solidly. In fact, angled th serewsto get good contact see details ‘Vande’ Gust make sure the “hook” ofthe wall cleats pointing up) When the mounting block i place all you have to do is it the cab- inet onto the wallcteat and step back. to admire your work, 1 CUTTING DIAGRAM nerey (7 80. Fe) Le {ig x26" 48° cherry Plywood iS i \ \-( | LL Titbiode ster (AF inital Zo. i ret ‘Woeadsmith No 128@ SOURCES MAIL ORDER SOURCES ‘The hardware and supplies ‘you need to build the pro- Jectsin this issue are avail able from local stores or the mail order sources atright For a complete list of sup- plies needed for each pro- ject, check outthe supplies listincluded in each article, BREADBOX ieberet wild joni oot theenil ents acer soos brelloe wat rete @© sus reabeteo referred to as “refrigerator door’ glass.) As you might oie tb pinint (ike flat glass), so it's best st Te a chu eawe ay ioe We peed dia, steel rod in the shop for these. Butsince they're so short, you could also cut ‘each pin from a bolt with a Yi, shank. ‘0p0S & ENDS, There wre a ‘couple other ods and ends to pick up, (These or simi ler items are available from the sources at right.) The door and cutting board have a small brass knob Gpsdia) screwed to their front edges. And the cut- ting board slides on com: mon nylon chair glides. (Youray need to shimthe slides with washers if they aren't tall enough) Finally, to cushion the door as it shuts, I found some Y-thick adhesive- backed plastic bumpers. But if you can't find these bumpers (some of the sources listed don't kave them), then you can sub stitute Y!-dia. adhesive backed felt dots, CLAMPS Both pipe clamps and Jorgensen band clampsare pretty commonly available athardware stores, Foralu ae ad minum barclamps, Bessey cap nuts will be the same “supplies end clamps, and other specialty for both lengths of bolt.) hardware may unps, you may need to Also, beawarethatsome be ordered from the following gotolagerhomecentera sources offer leg levelers woodworkingstore,orthe and T-nuts in the same °?”"Panies: sources at right package, in which ease you Lee Valley wouldn't want to order 800871 MODULAR SHELVING — another set of T-nuts. The ¥¥-leevaller.com The modular shelving on importantthingis tha the ruervor page 18includes a ot of threads on these are the cung'Gne\Cob itemsyou'llbeableto pick same, (Mine were Y"20) ‘henton: Comes up locally. For instance in ison to the funnbes Rockler Woodnording eae) eee pola inet shown smaw.rockieccom round molding (the kind on page 26 also requires a fimuttrtardear used wit glass pane, but its regular Sieing ni However: fla glassnotreeded, Also, ares Corer Cebit ccon- since the door holds a sin- stead of pased four smaller pieces), trouble finding th nectorboltsor letlevelers, gle large pane Gin so they can be pur from a number of the chose %4'-thick (called sourcesatright. Butletme —“doublestrength’) glass, ingsabout The 1"dia, brass knob, these items. bullet catch, balltipped cob CONNECTOR BOITS. First, hinges, and shelf supports when placing your order, are readily available from mentiona few ‘Woah Store 00-85-5084 make sure you know how — the sources at right. Note gratin hana, many connector bolts of though, thatthese sources Shes each size you need. Fora maynothavethe exactitem Clamps Corner single unit, you will need we used, but one that can, 1i¢"“Jong connector bots _ be substituted. (or 30mm), Ifyou build wo Onelastthing, toroutthe ormore units, theboltsthat cove onthe molding, you'l connect them willneed to need a 1"-ta. core box bit, be2“ong (orsomm). (The see sources. BH Aertare, Cbs DGLN LITE, * Over 0 Woodworking Tips Online *+ Project Plans You Can Download * Catalog of Projet Kits, Tools Jigs & Plans + Forums for Woodworking. Tool & Clasiede Inksto Other Woodworking Sites += Orier Woodsmith/ShopNotes Back Issues + Visitour other August Home Publishing Stes www.woodsmith.com Woodsmith 357W OI Kore) ETAILS Be inimde a board witha dinabl, ain surface. Steb-by step plans start on page 6, cr bueup molding, a doo ith did gis, and an angled case — pleny of nceresing woodworking. Insti