THE

BOOK

ILLUMINATED
OF

NEEDLEWORK:
COMPRISING

KNITTING,

CROCHET,

NETTING,

AND

EMBROIDERY.

BY

MRS.

HENRY
Of

Upper

OWEN,
Baker

PRECEDED

HISTORY

OF

Street.

BY

NEEDLEWORK,
INCLUDING

AN

OF

ACCOUNT

THE

ANCIENT

EDITED

THE

HV

COUNTESS

OF

LONDON
HENRY

G.

BOHN,

YORK

TAPESTRIES.

HISTORICAL

WILTON.

STREET,

MDCCCXLVII.

COVENT

GARDEN.

-':

TO

GRACIOUS

MOST

HER

DOWAGEE,

QUEEN

THE

MAJESTY'S

HER

BY

ENNOBLED

HISTORY

THE

ILLUSTRATE

TO

INTENDED

WORK,

LITTLE

THIS

ART

MAJESTY

TO

OF

WOMEN

AND

PRACTICE,

RECOMMENDED

EXAMPLE

THE

ENGLAND,

is,

BY

MAJESTY'S

HER

PERMISSION,

GRACIOUS

MOST

INSCRIBED

BY

HER

UTMOST

THE

WITH

MAJESTY'S

AND

MOST

MOST

OBEDIENT

RESPECT,

GRATEFUL

SERVANT,

THE

OF

PROGRESS

AND

AUTHORESS.

BY

HER

AN

PREFACE.

there

If

be

application
universal
the

poorest

need
Yet

silent

creations

the

praise

and

scathing

The

and

end

with

of

the

humblest

dweller

in

the

span

of

ply

the

long

the

"

and

busy
and

needle

an

hour's

house,"

narrow

in

and

all

sober

useful

due

their

without

either
their

its beautiful

or

prose

meed
ing
sound-

glittering antithesis,

destroying sword,

has

exulting record,

the

been

without

the

theme

limit

and

of

progress
end

to

Destructive

"

an

"

and

practised
denizen

remained

while

admiring

without

Needle

record,
"

more

stateliest

less

of

is

of

services.

hitherto

rhyme,

of

which

or

tenant

practical

have

more

infant

crying

its

the

to

all

cottage,

the

the

universal

more

therefore

and

others,

From

palace,

the

life, to

all

of

art

interest, it is that

proudest

of

than

Needle.

from

mechanical

one

this

real
false

weapon,

is

civilization

prestige
and

as

in

rapidly putting

favour

of

rapidly raising
a

the

the

PREFACE.

VI

"

"

Conservative

time

"

female

hand.

The

chief

an

of

connected

with

earliest

the

entirely

dry

called

leniency
the

of

in

adventurer

withheld

from

of

the

maiden

the

present

on

her.

of

affording

facts,

the

from

avoiding

art,

yet

nishing
fur-

work-table

every

boudoir.

objects

an

day

to

much

thus

which

of

for

Needlework,"

accessory
every

criticism

least

at

pleasing associations,

of

topic

of

gathering together

Art

thinks

Authoress

explanation

instructive
and

Art

noticeable

most

technicalities

fitting tenant

The

be

to

acceptable

an

"

and

The

"

ages

the

the

of

curious

most

is that

volume

of

fitting subject

fitting

"

this

entertaining
the

record

record

comprehensive
and

of

aim

as

the

triumph

The

"

and

that

when

treated

social

and

estimation

industry,

be

may

historical

of

and

ingenuity

Needlework

public

arrived

length

at

seems

female

in

one

of
and

is

work

she

on

trusts

usually

unexplored

in

necessary

track

what

may

that

that

accorded

to

will not

be

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

I.

Page

Introductory

.1
...

CHAPTER

Early

II.

Needlework

.11
.

CHAPTER

Needlework

of

the

III.

Tabernacle

.23
.

CHAPTER

Needlework

of

the

IV.

Egyptians

.32
.

CHAPTER

Needlework

of

Greeks

the

V.

and

Romans

41
.

CHAPTER

The

Dark

Ages"

"

Shee

VI.

Schools"

.56
.

CONTENTS.

Vlll

CHAPTER

VII.
Page

Needlework

of the

Dark

Ages

.64

VIII.

CHAPTER

The

I.

Part

Bayeux Tapestry.
"

.84
.

IX.

CHAPTER

The

Part

Bayeux Tapestry"

II.

.103
.

of the

148

worked

XII.

in

1 65

Tapestry

in Costume.

XIII.

in Costume.

Part

"

The

Field

of the Cloth

II.

209

^
.

XV.
.231

of Gold"
.

XVI.

CHAPTER

The

XIV.

CHAPTER

"

.186

Parti.

"

CHAPTER

Needlework

CHAPTER
Needlework

117
.

......

CHAPTER

Romances

Chivalry

XI.

CHAPTER

Tapestry

and

of Romance

Times

X.

CHAPTER

Needlework

.252

Needle
.

CONTENTS.

IX

XVII.

CHAPTER

Page

from

Tapestry

.273

Cartoons

the

XVIII.

CHAPTER

The

of

Days

"

Bess"

Queen

Good

Tapestry
as

XIX.

the

of

the

Spanish
of the

Tapestry

Armada

House

Stitchery

Anciennes

Les

Hall,

.301

.312

XXI.

Tapisseries." Tapestry of

Coventry. Tapestry

Embroider}'-

of

St.

Hampton

Court

342

...

XXIII.

Books

355

CHAPTER
of

Royal

XXIV.

Ladies
.

CHAPTER
Modern

329
.

Needlework

Mary

XXII.

CHAPTER

on

known

of Lords

CHAPTER

Needlework

better

XX.

CHAPTER
"

CHAPTER

On

282
.

CHAPTER

The

374

395

XXV.

Needlework
.

THE

ART

OF

NEEDLEWORK.

INTRODUCTION.

CHAPTEK

"

Le

donne

Di
E

'arte,

sente

forse

L'

In

all

la fama

ancor

of

sterner

actions

gentler
been
it were,

the

sex,

by
on

ascosi
o

il

non

than
it is

extraneous
canvas

avvertenza,

onori

degli

His

pen

usually

only

scrittori."

lament

may

when

circumstances
of

oscura.

nou

saper

are

cura

historian.

and

the

abbia

lor debiti

han

woman

silence

posto

5?

invidia,

ages

hanno

ove

eccellenza

all' istorie

qualunque

Ne

in

venute

son

ciascun

I.

human

the

"

the
is

Ariosto.

ungallant

the

record
of

vocation

fair individuals
thrown
affairs

"

of
the

have
out,

when

as

they

INTRODUCTION.

have

forced

been

their natural

with

into

publicitylittle

they have

that

sphere
"

consistent

become

his

theme.

Consequently those domestic virtues which

teristics
woman's
are
retiringcharacgreatest pride, those
her
which
most
are
becoming ornament,
her best employthose gentle occupations which
are
ment,
find
is the

end

record

no

who

with

the

have

manly heroism,

historians

she

days

of

allow

gallantryto

part of creation,
in darker

chief
of

trumpet-stirringrecords.

of

even

case

whose

pages

of

blazoning
or

is the

on

we

putations,
royal disif this

And

enlightened times,
be

to

woman

ponent
com-

that
hardly wonder
utterlyand entirely

can

should

and

aim

be

overlooked
.

Mohammed
and

had

only

existed

only

the

found

that

her

carry

to

This

the

Des

tendre

dont

l'intention

la

perfection,ne

jamais
femme

que

c'est
ne

des

qui ne

comme

meunssent

etle

that

because

did

she

permit

not

them.
has

not

wanted

sages

ont

ecrit

porters.
supla

que

dessein

et

que

l'ordre

contre

sa

de

naitre

jamais;

certain

ainsi

ses

volonte
un

quelqu'autre

avec

il nait

quand

dans

voit

on

voit

asserted

matter

hommes,

expressement

on

of approbation.

esttoujoursde
produirait s'il etait possible,

monstre

un

ajoutent, que, comme

aveugle, boiteux, ou
et

tres

part,"

mundane

the

and

without

hommes

diviner

"

had

complimentary doctrine

Nature,

world

souls;

no

degree

any

when

women

imperfectionof

on

"

une

formed

to

Aristotle

him,

Before

the
whom

of

four
them

entitled
qualifications

Nature

had

women

that, settingaside

moreover,

there

that

asserted

arbres

Tonpeut

ductions,
proils

homme

defaut
des

ture
na-

fruits

dire que

la

INTRODUCTION.

femme

est

animal

un

accident

produitpar

et

le

par

hasard."*
Without

is but

woman

this extreme

touchingupon

by chance,

"

monstre,"

un

assertion

animal

an

that

produced

that women
have
briefly,
with some
few exceptions,!been
considered
ever,
as
a
degraded and humiliated race, until the promulgation
of the Christian
ciety
religionelevated them in soand

the

from

we

observe

may

that

this distinction still exists is evident

difference

the countries

those

humaines,"

This

where
to

sex

that

it is

no

shall be

e'te

On

creatures

they are

but

the

de la

peine

have

se

ties

elevated

they ever

difference
"

creation

take

is

there,

that

care

dans

"

concile, et

un

qu'apres

veritable,et

it

pursuits public,

own

persuader qu'une pareilleopinion

ferames

des

tries
coun-

courted, flattered,

still the

question

en

le fait est

der.
gen-

in those

even

are

Their

paratively
com-

nobler"

refinement

Women

lords of

faveur

Cependant

the

pretty

now

higher grade in societythan

gravement

en

that

remark

new

understood.

aurait

raise

decide

and

des

"

are

civilization and

caressed, extolled
the

women

lightlythought of by
is absolutely
the case
a

it is

happy country

our

reached.

before

tween
be-

professing Christianity.

generallyallowed

and

exhibited

moment

professingMohammedanism

Still,though in

the

this

at

un

ce

long

assez

fut

qu'on

dans

eut

n'eut

examen.

le Concile

de

Macon.
Probleme

les Femmes,

sur

les ferames

ne

sont

ou

l'on essaye

pointdes creatures

de

prouver

humaines.

"

que
sterdam,
Am-

1744.

f As, for instance,the

ancient

Germans,

and

their

Saxons, "c.

b2

offshoots,the

INTRODUCTION.

the theme

are

dinners

their

post

private, of

"

"

"

coenam
a

with

woman

"

much

as

with

sense,

eloquence, with loftyprinciples,enthusiastic

and

conduct

pure

if she

excite

hath

nation

whose

matter

of
other

fame,

seek

of their

virtue,

in

are

to

to

train

of

steal

world

But

soothe

to

discharge

Woe
a

her

grimage
pil-

the

as

attributes

of

surely a

publicity, or

and

pure

that

to

custom,

distinguishing,the

solace

power,

high,

unearthly

alleviate

to

the

time-worn

the

vocation

such

duties

on
noiselessly
forgetting,by

these

splendid
"

of

system

of

minor

and

these

as

her

to

the

They

are

actions

in
she

the
and

is

peaceful
be

may

tent
con-

forgot."
not

are

and

the

Such

appointed bourne,

world

results

sudden,

suffering,to
spirit on

for heaven.

youthful one

efforts.
a

life ;

that

foolish, and

of

pain,

to

the

great exertions
of

as

on

magnificent vocation;

woman's

the

intrude

vain,

be.

habit,

to

"

Every earthlycharity,every unearthly

the legitimateobject of woman's
pursuit.

sex.

discord,

earth,

the

lofty,the

It is hers

soften

martyr

appointed goal.

pursuit

forget

the

noble,

'

as

and

command

when

oblivion

it should

as

unsuccessful

most
or

its

women,

sex,

feelings,

her

lost in

reached

course,

of

more

appointed path in
during
passing comment

this is but

And

to

self-denying conduct

pilgrimage, is quickly

the

sterlingvirtue

noiselesslythrough

steals

and

with

"

the

respect, and

grapher
bio-

the

of life
every-day circumstances
their
and
their
toasts
speeches
tality
eloquence,are noted down for immor-

"

whilst

historian

the

nay,

their

of the

effect of

the

and

uncertain,
effect
of

of

thusiastic
en-

course,

occupations,in-

INTRODUCTION.

dividuall J
noiseless
dew

in their

from

in their

that,

known

involve

often

appear,

with

such

to

details
insignificant
made

up

and

chain

The

sum

one

of

those

and

of

fevered

palate relieved,

near

the

It is not

isolated

action

of

it is their

bearing

daily and

hourly

which

the

form

And

if

for

of
and
human

art

an

an

that

trivial
which

of

made

worth

of

the
the

sees

freshed
re-

it ?
each

its value

"

It is the

mass.

minute

particles

the

hemming

thing

in

furnishes

employment

comforts
shall
of

and
refer

we

itself, yet it is
a

half.

the

than

kerchief
pocket-hand-

useful,

agreeable occupation to one-half

and
adds very materially to
race,

of the other

by

that

feminine

other

what

The

is

the

frame

stamps

on

absolutely to

most

needlework

effect

value.

amount.

elegancies of life,to
to

intrinsic

accumulation

look

we

adds

which

and

him, and

hand

in

seem

may

exhausted

the

significa
in-

link

stands

that

to

which

woman

vast

itself, as

definiterelative

the

independent

life is

details, how

yet who

will bless

ty it, bat

entirelyof

human

of

in

dear

sick-bed

which

inference

an

spoonful of gruel

sults.
re-

all connected

at

It is

the

matter
insignificant
one

blessed

duties

such

conclusion.

life is of

of

preparing

very

But

apparently

human

of

minor

that

any

soever

the

of

gentle

progress,

their

only by

ends.

false

unnoted

view, little if

first

mighty

like "the

are

silent

routine

at

lead

would

are

and

appearance,

approach. They

heaven"

and, like

They

their

insignificantin

branch

graceful,
of

the

the
forts
com-

INTRODUCTION.

How

sings our
te

So

long

So

Their
So

Of

linnen

their

world

indeed,

would

needlework

the

have

St. Paul,

exalted

necessity,rigidly

as

small

of ages.
the

but

of what

reduced

be

past,

merely

the

ually
habit-

is, that

fact

necessities

and

we

are.

ness,
wilder-

in the

abiding

in

that

high principlereferred

of

instance

that

talk

We

necessities

to

of

portion

necessityis lost, buried

hermit, when

the

might
and

idea

an

toyle:

it is also true

but

word

necessaries,

hardly

noble

the

shall

and

very

suffice

spoile

shall last.*'

use

far

as

yeare

gaine

mans

needle's

accumulations

mere

by

bear

shall

quite dissolv'd

be

worne

exhausted

with

that

of
signification

of

yeare

concerned,

is

speaking,

amidst

fleeces

entrailes,for

own

"

or

sheep

silkwormes,

as

made

be

flax,or

long, at least, the

'T is true,

very

or

wollen

till the

Yea,
So

hemp,

as

long

shall

garments

as

long

especialBard

own

unknown
to
a
Wesley,* where
person
others, seeking no praise,and looking to no reward
but the applaudings of his own
conscience, bought
a
pennyworth of parsnips weekly, and on them, and

to

Mr.

by

them

alone, with

lived, that

Surely
would
dress
His

he

the

might

to

money

boiled,

they were
pay

his debts.

incorruptibleintegrityas

"

this

of
spend nothing intentionallyin superfluities
"

and

shirt

yet, mark

would

be

trousers

would

shaping

and

how

have

his

coat

undergone

seaming;
*

he

many

would

his

Southey'sLife

and
the
hat

cloth
neck-

waistcoat

and

usual
would

vol. ii.

have.

his

curiouslywrought,"

"

neatly hemmed
of

save

of such

man

in which

water

mysteries
be

neatly

INTRODUCTION.

decorated

she

she

all and

with

mingled

obeyed Charity ;

Pleasure

aided

she

Utility;
and

she

Religion ;

served

she

pranked

Fun

out

of

circumstance

every

life.

Many

changes

behold.

At

in hall

supreme

the

she adorned

deeds

"

of

and

and

in gorgeous

or

in

rich

"

of

guest

what

bower

solemn

"in

were

she
the

med
drapery,begemgold, she reigned
silken tissue girt

high-born maiden's

knighthood

lot to

courted,

cherished

palace ;

her

it been

brilliants, bedropped with

with

the

and

Then

noble.

royal and

has

honoured

time

one

acknowledged

the

was

chances

and

time
canto"

kingly purple, in
regal tissue, in royalmagnificence, she stood within
the altar's sacred
pale ; and her robes, rich in Tyrian
told.

In still

and

dye,

hallowed
she

more

glitteringwith

inspiritedthe
home
the

on

pointed
to

hero's

every

into

the

heart

battle

it

aroused

the

banner

was

When

the

device

which

; she

which

than

the

she

furled
unsage
mes-

displayed the cipher

him

nerved
entwined

scarf, the sight of which

its

sent

land

struck

to

sooner

those

initials

fresh

ardour

his breast.

But
the

to

pennon

relinquish life
in the

host.

in

Ophir's gold, swept

When

pavement.
she

array,

she fell into

halls

of the

occupied,and

disrepute,and

noble.

Still

was

rejectedfrom

was

she

ever

busy,

ever

her services freelygiven

onlywere
all who
to
required them, but given with such
winning grace that she required but to be once
known
to
be
loved
ever
so
exquisitely did she
of all.
adapt herself to the peculiarities
With
flowing ringlets and silken robe, carolling
gaily as she worked, you would see her pinking the
not

"

VJ

INTRODUCTION.

ruffles of the Cavalier, and

their

piquancy by

you

would

and

sad-coloured

November
and

withal

the

sew

sedate

and

grave

and

grave

layersof
she

alacrityshe

would

garments

Church,

With

starch.

shape
prepare

of

and

divine

Genevan

Roundhead,

would

of

raiment

becoming

of

like

looks

and

the bands

aspect

uncomely

neat-handed

with

of serge,

garment

day, hemming
adding numerous

to

daintydevice : then
smoothly plaitedhair,

with

her

behold

adding

anon

and

new

some

and

ever

the

the

Anglican
gentle sigh would
statelyand glowing

though perhaps a
escape, a sigh of regret for the
to the house
of old : for they did honour
vestments
of God, not because
statelyand glowing,
they were
but because
offeringsof our best.
they were
In

all the

life she has

domestic

of

participant. Often and again has

ball-room,
splendidcourt, the glittering

been

ever

charities

sweet

fled the

the

quiet hearth

she

and

of the

gentle
She
has
homeand
loving matron.
lightenedthe
weariness
of many
a
solitaryvigil,and she has
heightened the enjoyment of many a social gossip.
taken

her

Nor
and

station

at

while

even

palacesdid

habitations

courted

and

Needlework

no,

in

she

And

experience,the
cherished

and

fickleness

sheltered

happy
by royal mandate
throne.

The

hourlycompanion
she experienced, as

when

in her
to

of court
there.

all do

there she

was
mained,
re-

till again summoned

utility,
her

resume

illustrious and

filled the British

of their

favour, she
And

the

their familiar

was

friend, the dailyand

firesides.

courts

herself from

absent
Oh

of the poor.

caressed

station

excellent

throne, and

who

near

the

lady who lately

reigned stillmore
b3

10

INTRODUCTION.

in

surely

the

name

these

on

long
place

the

among

Fair

reader
is

of

somewhat

to

the

"

shrine.

rugged

Where

the

Whe^e

amid

fancy

the
and

not

you

the

silver

golden

there

taste

pray

do

not,

me

Pray

way

fountains

is

work
Needle-

not

descent,
to

make

travel

of

you
onward

toilsome,

nor

forsake

wander,
meander,"

streams

and

flower-bestrewn

will

she

"

then,

familiar

but,

meads

sunny

high

permit

The

once

dame

gentle
of

acquainted

her

track

this

lineage,

will

her

in

her

from

noble.

that

see

you

better

me

and

great

ancient

habits

courtly

with

her

has

who

honoured

Needlework

reinstated

and

seclusion,

her

place

to

us

allured

pages,

and

Englishwomen,

of

permitted

graciously

most

is

hearts

me.

beguile

paths
us.

Do

of

not

II

CHAPTER

EARLY

The

Our

The

rose
a

Unto

the

her

to

necessary

Eve

not

the

was

task

by

some

able

be

and

of

bored

in the

her

the

of

John

"

Sharon's

her

boy

plain,

thence
first-born,
vow'd

was

the hand

By

silent soul the

while,

so

beautiful,was

God."

"

origin
;"

hers,

Hemans.

needlework

of

accuratelywhat

define

think

glance,rejoic'dto

by

mean

we

else, when

or

it will be

we

the
that

assert

be taken
to
may
critical antiquarian,
because
we
may

first

sempstress,

preciselyto
of

prove

mankind

we

that
made

the
use

polishedsteel, finelypointed
at

Taylor.

laughter of his eye

serious

sweet

began."

on

service.

and

dewy

mother

beautiful
weapon

needlework

"

it is enrold

for the

aught so pure,
bring before her

speaking

term

Sion

Temple

the

as

Met

In

to

led him

Oft

text

exceeding old,

mother, with

young

up

She

is

in rich bloom

was

Went

To

sewing

parents first in Paradise

When

That

NEEDLEWORK.

in the sacred

As

"

of

use

I.

the

other,

and

eye." Assuredly we

"

do

warranted
not

mean

frail
of
at

and

little

one

end

not

to cut

to

assert

12

EARLY

that

she

she

such

use

would

we

"

"

did

attack

venture

then

But

us

"

professorof needlework,
of

use

needle

certainly

most

to say

cynical critic

the

again

bly
proba-

most

say that Eve

and yet you

You

"

instrument;

an

almost

did not.

would

NEEDLEWORK.

the first

was

the

disclaim

for her."

Like
other profound
good sir, we do not.
do not
and originalcommentators,
we
investigators
annihilate
one
hypothesisere we are prepared with
another,
ready cut and dried," to rise, like any
fabled phoenix,on the ashes of its predecessor. It
edified by a conversation
is not long since we
were

No,

"

which

heard,

we

sexagenarians
"

and

of

both well versed

of them

neither

deficient

establish

to

was

"

If you want
history;if you

quiteeasy

Eve

:" but

want

"

work

the

we

mencement
com-

facts,you

establish

with

must

follow

system, it is

like."

you

system," I

could

superfinedrill-eyed
object.

my

probable

"

that

Eve's

first needle

Before

But,

man's

for man's

Without

thorns

"

this is not

St. Ambrose

Why

and

"

formed

establish

to

to

most

thorn

lay down

to

So, if I wished

seems

have

well

placethe people where

to

easilymake

about

"

"

was

in

of the conversation

concludingremark
opined that it might as

The

It

antiquarianlore,
city
antiquarian tenatheory which one
some
aborigines.

"

wanted

two

in

opinion respectingsome

of them

needle

overheard, between

rather

or

the

should

fall the
sayes,

rose

was

without

fault,then

born,

the thorn
was

the

thorn,

fragrantrosebud, born.'s

spring up

at

the

precise

mo-

EARLY

of

merit

13

NEEDLEWORK.

the fall is difficult to account

for in

world

where

everything has its use, except we suppose

that
and
for needles
meant
:
general
they were
analogy leads us to this conclusion ; for in almost all
existingrecords of people in what we are pleased
to call a
make
savage"'state, we find that women
of this primitive instrument,
fish-bone.
use
or
a
Avant
du
l'invention
des aiguillesd'acier, on
a
de
d' aretes
se
servir, a leur defaut, d'epines,ou
And
Eve's
first
as
poissons,ou d'os d'animaux."
was
specimen of needlework
certainlycompleted
before
the sacrifice of any
living thing, we
may
not
safely infer that the latter implements were
"

"

familiar

her.

to

Cimbrian

The

inhabitants

of

Britain

passed their time in weaving baskets, or in

sewing together for garments the skins of animals
taken

in the

chase, while

uniting these
fish

simple

animals

or

needles

just

inhabitants

(t

They

made

of

most

the

sewed

Cook

for

bones

of

end

one

used

were

by
the

and
the
brated
cele-

first visited them.

themselves

of the first needlework.

fig-leaves
together,and

aprons."
record

and

thus

the

commentator.
poetical
"

Those

They gather'd,broad
And, with
To

needles

Islands, when

the earliest historical

esteemed

It is

sort

same

to the material

themselves

Thus

as

small

habiliments

of the Sandwich

we

used

rudely sharpened at

Captain
Proceed

they

skill

what

gild their

leaves
as

Amazonian

targe,

they had, together sew'd,

waist."

supposed that

the leaves

alluded

to here

were

14

EARLY

those
Sir

of the

Forbes,

the

Hindoos

the

banian-tree, of which

leaves, says

large,soft, and of a lively

fruit a small
bright scarlet fig. The
sider
peculiarlyfond of this tree ; they con-

James

green

NEEDLEWORK.

are

are

and
long duration, its outstretchingarms,
of the Deitjv,
overshadowing beneficence, as emblems
its

and

almost

who

thus

find

"

in
in

of their time

much

spend

fane

the

shade

the

dewals,

the

of

where

there

is

grove,"
under

solitude,
religious

they plant

temples ;

and
for

structure

no

sacred

every

banian-tree

Hindoo

or

Brahmins,

The

honours.

it divine

pay

in

it

near

those

lages
vil-

publicworship,

of these trees, and

they place an image under one
The
there perform morning and evening sacrifice.
size of some
of these trees is stupendous. Sir James
Forbes

mentions

fiftylarge trunks,
thousand

the

has

smaller

used

to

the

cover

separate

branches

afforded

friends, with
march
seven

Such
which
"

our

of

every

an

thousand
is the

Milton

tree

carriages,horses,
while its spreading

for the

tents

of his

cattle.

And

in the

and

it has

noble

been

known

to

shelter

men.

banian-tree,
refers

general mother"

of needlework.

shady spots

army

dation,
accommo-

his

attendants

their servants

other

yet did this

whole, together with

camels, guards, and

the chief of the

magnificentstyle;
chambers,
drawing-room,bed-

room,

tents

three

in

bath, kitchen, and

all in

exceeding

ones

encamp

saloon, dining

and

hundred

three

another, whereunder

and

neighbourhood
having

which

one

to

the
as

pride of

the

for her

one

Hindustan

which

first essay

served

in the

art

16

NEEDLEWORK.

EARLY

But, alas !
She

whose

should

fingerswould

the mother,
her

whom

to

was

no

have

more

busy fingersrested

sister,would

Dinah

her

the

revelled

it,Rachel
cold,

was

his

Would

tomb.

the work

execute

in

heart

warm

the

in

task ?

he intrust

No

; it

was

jealousyof
her brothers.
No
The father apportions
matter.
the task to his handmaidens,
and
himself superintends
the performance. With
pleased eye he
its progress, and
with benignant smile he
watches
invests the
happy and gratifiedchild with the
glowing raiment.
of paThis elaborate pieceof work, the offering
ternal
affection to pleasea darling child, was
bably
proof
the simple and somewhat
clumsy original
but

probablethat

too

those which

she shared

embroidered

afterwards

wrere

and
which

colours, and

in various

woven

in the

sequently
subcame

regarded as garments of dignityand appropriated

she
that
to royalty
; as it is said of Tamar

to be

"

had
such

garment of divers colours upon

robes

the

were

king'sdaughters

virginsapparelled." It
India
coat

and
even

many

to

dress

of various

her

is

even

favourite

or

now

for with

that

were

customary

in

child in

beautiful

colours

sewed
tastefully
together;
it may
not
perhaps be very absurd to refer
ancient an
to so
origin as Joseph's coat of
colours the superstition
now
prevalentin some

countries, which

teaches

of many
colours
of malicious
tongues or

garment

that

child

is safe from
the

clothed
the

machinations

in

blasting
of evil

spirits.
In the Book

of Samuel

his mother, made

him

trivial incident

we

read, "And

little coat."

enough, yet

how

This

Hannah,
seems

is
interesting

the

this

which

scene

all the

simplemention

fervour

earnest

17

NEEDLEWORK.

EARLY

of

that

With

conjuresup

who

separatedrace

of
instrument
hoped each one to be the honoured
then
bringing a Saviour into the world, Hannah,
childless,prayed that this reproachmight be taken
from
and
for

her

Her

heard, her

was

prayer

holygratitudeshe reared him,

fame, for worldlyhonour, or even
in

domestic

comfort,

his birth, she

Most

only tillher
and

him

as

the

had

cares

for wealth,

not

heF

for

birth, and

indulged herself

maternal

then, with

own

before
of

servant

the

his presence
fitted him for duty ;
with

tearful eye it might be, and a faltering

footstep,but an unflinchingresolution, she

devoted
But

to the

him

altar of her

did his

never

amid

hearth

her

first-born
Tabernacle
him

with
"

sprang

up

her

mind

she
her

which

went

had

bloomed

forsake
to

up

husband,
she

never

and

thoughts

Elkanah

little coat"

her

yearly,when

and

did

God.

leave

image

the fair scions which

around

take

devoted
She

High.

his

but, from

"

born

was

son

did

made.

her
the
she
We

at this
fancy her quiet happy thoughts when
employment ; we may fancythe eager earnest
tionings
quesof the little group
she was
rounded
surby whom
their absent brother ;
; the wondering about
the anxious catechisings
respectinghis whereabouts
;

may

all, the admiration

and, above

the

itself,and
in form
their

and

And

own.

garment
mother,

criticisms

earnest

fashion

it should

then

longing to

see

to

on

the

garment

new

if
it; especially

somewhat

differ from

arrives the moment

is committed

weeping

of

to

its

part from

her absent

envelope;
her

little

boy,receives

wdien

the

and

the

ones,

yet

their adieux

18

NEEDLEWORK.

EARLY

and

their thousand

reminiscences, and

sets

forth

on

her

journey.
Again she treads the
her vows,
meekly renews

again she
and again a mother's
ings,
longa mother's
ment
hopes are quenched in the full enjoyand
of a mother's
Beautiful
love.
good, the
attendinghim, and throwing a
blessingof Heaven
beam
of lighton his fair brow, the pure and holychild
like a seraph administering
at that altar to
appears
which

he had

been

hallowed

consecrated

ministrywas sanctioned
Most
High himself, when
midnight he breathed his
his

the

child, and

medium

made

babe, and

by

even

wishes

stillness of

into

him, infant

the
he

as

to

at which

the voice of the

in the solemn

of his communications

in the service

The

courts,

one

heart

the

was,

grown

of

hoary

of the altar.

solemn

duties

Hannah

ended,

invests

her

hopefulboy with the little coat, whilst her willing

fingerslingeringly
perform their office,as if loth to
quita task in which they so much delight.And then
with meek
her
step and gratefulheart she wends
homeward
tranquillyon the past
way, and meditates
interview, till the
her

again on
of another
And

"

of another

return

pilgrimage of

love

"

year finds her

the joyfulbearer

little coat."
is

high tribute

needlework

paid to

in the

restored to life by the

historyof Dorcas, who was
"
stood
all the widows
apostleSt. Peter, by whom
weeping, and showing the coats and garments which
Dorcas

made

while
"

The

she

In these

were

These

hung

read

of Dorcas

monuments

These

were

thy
as

them."

with

was

acts, and
honours

dead
thou

o'er

shalt

thy

have

grave

after us,

And

Would

distressed,

fame

Should

Thy

19

NEEDLEWORK.

EARLY

be

dumb,

tomb

very

cry out, Thou

art

blessed ! "

merely as an object of private and

domestic
is referred to in
utilitythat needlework
the Bible.
It was
applied earlyto the service of
the Tabernacle, and the directions concerning it are
and most
; but before this time,
very clear and specific
rich and
probably as early as the time of Abraham,
But

it is not

valuable

of needlework

raiment

part of the bond fide property of

as

When
the
and

of

accounted

was
a

wealthy man.

for
sought Rebekah
patriarch'ssteward
wife of Isaac, he
brought forth jewelsof silver,
raiment"
This
jewels of gold,and raiment.'"
the

"

"

consisted, in all likelihood, of garments embroidered

with

gold,the handiwork,
slaves of the patriarch;

very

then,

great
as

from

esteem

now,

be, of the female

it may
such

the

garments

earliest ages,

portion of

component

which
one
offeringswithout
thought of approaching another.
or

Fashion

leon-hued
the fabrics

in

those

creature

days

that she

which

her

is at

those

presents

personage

hardly

quite the

not

was

being in
and
being

present

; nor

chamewere

displayedquite
so
lightand airy: their
gold not silk
covered
with
gilded silver ; and consequently the
raiment
of those days,in-wrought with slipsof gold
beaten
thin and
and
into spangles or
cut
strips,
sewed on in various patterns, sometimes
intermingled
with preciousstones, would
intrinsic
carry its own
value

with

on

it.

fancy was
gold was

"

20

NEEDLEWORK.

EARLY

This

raiment"

"

chased

descended

father

from

to son,

as

wrought urn does now

;
and was
as
a
naturallyand necessarilyinventoried
portionof the property. The practiceof making presents
a

goblet and

of

regard

; and

circumstance,
the

death

had
lie

of

suits

excess

so

found

was

clothes,

hundred

other
late

so

illustrious

an

as

of

poet

him, that
hundred

tern
eas-

with

any

public favour, that,

possessed of

two

it carried

callingor

presents made

many

the

amongst
was

their

from
in

were

an

century, Bokteri,

ninth

Cufah,

to such

who,

those

to

massy

is stillquite usual

garments

nations

at his

complete

shirts, and

five hundred

turbans.

Horace,
Asia,

and

waited
suits out

furnish
them

over

he

time

some

such

and

send

to the

and

note

whole

stage, he
is it

possible

I have."

which

I will

After

"

tells them

part of

or

hundred

However,

what

you

of

how

number

ing
hav-

persons

Roman

suits!
a

writes

five thousand,

some

the

for

hundred

"
"

that,

pillaged

refinements

request the loan

to

had

(who

Asiatic*

says

his wardrobe

of

to

me

him

on

exclaimed

look

introduced

first

the Romans),

among

for

of Lucullus

speaking

he

had

theywere

welcome.
In

all the

Persia

hundred

sent

the

them

to those

sovereign; more

service.
number

In

than

the

for

the persons

favour

princewould

to

whom

confer

more

they
on

so

are

they

great

always

were

the

to

intendant
were

much
or

to the

fewer

his guests.

the

designed by
in this

richness

according

presented, or

many
of

always employed

were

attend

not

and

for whom

persons

do

there

presents,

dresses, giving

dignityof
the

where

forty tailors

Turkey they
of

formerly,and

great wardrobes,

habits,sorted, ready

wardrobe
the

had

world

eastern

the

as

to

marks

to

the

of

EARLY

21

NEEDLEWORK.

the

arrayinga person in a rich dress is

considered
it was
a
one
very high compliment, and
of the ancient modes
of investingwith the highest
Thus
was
degree of subordinate
Joseph
power.
by Ahasuerus
arrayedby Pharaoh, and Mordecai
what important effects are proWe
all remember
duced
ful
by splendidrobes in "The Tale of the Wonderother of those fascinating
Lamp," and in many
tales (which are allowed
to be rigidly
correct in the
delineations of eastern
doubtless
life). They were
the richest part of the spoilafter a battle,
esteemed
of Sisera apportioningthem
find the mother
as we
as
his share, and reiterating
her delighted
anticipations
extent

now,

of the
his

"

"raiment
a

prey

of needlework"

of divers

needlework, of divers

Job

part
refers
to

has
of

treasures"

"

the

to

in the

when

same

and

rust

for your
gold and

Go

corrupt.

an

essential

our

Saviour

as

; and

spoil."

he desires

his hearers

treasures"

on

St. James

miseries

ye rich men
that shall come

silver is

cankered, and

"

"

East

plicitly
ex-

more

and

weep

upon
your

not

earth, where

even

to now,

of

both

on

that take the

to raiment

be

colours

of needlework

of them

for themselves

lay up

moth

colours

allusions

many

should

colours, of divers

for the necks

sides, meet

which

howl
Your

you.
garments

are

moth-eaten.
first notice

The

we

have

of

gold-wire

or

thread

tions
being used in embroideryis in Exodus, in the direcgiven for the embroideryof the priests'
garments
this it appears
that the metal was
still
fine and
then rounded.
alone, being beaten
:

used
This

from

art

the

Egyptians,by

Hebrews
whom

probably learnt
it

was

carried

to

from

such

an

the
as-

22

EARLY

tonishing

degree
it

weave

the

doubtless
have

of

in

equalled

Egypt.
testify.

or

NEEDLEWORK.

of

work

it

productions
the

This

that

nicety,

most

the

on

their
of

costly
adornments

they

and

either

linen.

finest

the

could

Hebrews

And

must

now

of

intricate

of

the

those

nacle
Taber-

24

NEEDLEWORK

OF

THE

visits of the adventurous

tween

TABERNACLE.

traveller,or the

more

startlinginterruptionsof the wild

their predatory expeditions.
Arabs
on
church
But
neither
nor
temple of any sort, nor
inquiring traveller,nor
prowling Arab, varied the
tremendous
grandeur of the scene, when the Israelitish host encamped there.
Weary and toilsome
had been the pilgrimagefrom the base of the mountain
unrelieved by a trace of
where the desolation was
vegetation,to the upper
country or wilderness,
called more
particularly, the Desert of Sinai,"
where
not destitute of
narrow
intersectingvalleys,
verdure, cherished
perhaps the loftyand refreshing
palm. Here in the ravines, in the valleys,and
frequent and

"

amid

the clefts of the

Israel,while
and

summits

around

rocks, clustered

them

the

hosts

of

lofty
every side arose
where
the eye that
toweringprecipices,
on

their fearful

lost in the
heights was
far-off dimness.
Far, far around, spread this savage
and desolate,
wilderness, so frowning,and dreary,
of the
that any curious explorerbeyond the precincts
would
which
its
to the home
quickly return
camp
afforded even
there.
vicinity
Clustered
the tents
closelyas bees in a hive were
of the wandering race, yet with an order and a uniformity
which
the unpropitiousnature
of the
even
not permittedto break
was
; for, separated
locality
into tribes, each one,
connected
though sufficiently
for any object of kindness
brotherhood, for public
or
tinct.
disworship, or social intercourse, was
inalienably

sought to

And

scan

in the

length of

midst,

extendingfrom
reared
feet, was
fifty-five

east

the

to west,

splendid

OF

NEEDLEWORK

Tabernacle.

For

THE

had

God

25

TABERNACLE.

said,

them

Let

"

make

dwell among
them ;"
that I may
Sanctuary,
both men
and women,
and behold, "they came,
as
and brought bracelets,
as
were
willing-hearted,
many
and rings,and tablets, all jewels
and earrings,
that offered, offered an
of gold ; and every man
And
offeringof gold unto the Lord.
every man
found blue, and purple,and scarlet,
with whom
was
and
fine linen, and
goats'hair, and red skins of
and badgers' skins, brought them.
rams,
Every
that did offer an
one
offeringof silver and brass
with
brought the Lord's offering: and every man

me

whom

found

was

service

brought

wise-hearted
which

that

for any
all the women

shittim-wood
it.

And

the

whose

hearts
And

goats'hair.

stones, and

stones

stirred them
the

to be

and

And

all these

was

obligedto

for the

stop their influx, had

abundance

made
been

in wisdom

brought onyxthe ephod, and for

oil for the light,

materials, which

be

up

all

rulers

set, for

offered in such

hearted"

And

of fine linen.

spice,and
breastplate
; and
for the anointingoil, and

the

were

spinwith their hands, and brought

they had spun, both of blue, and of
of scarlet, and

spun

that

did

purple,and
women

of the

work

the
that

sweet

cense."
in-

willingtion
proclama-

through the camp

wrought under

to

the

of Bezaleel and Aholiab, who

were
superintendence
divinely
inspiredfor the task ; and the Tabernacle
with the exceptionof some
of
now
was
completed,
the finest

needlework, which

had

not

bore

ample testimony

yet received

the

touches.
finishing
But what was
alreadydone

26

NEEDLEWORK

to the

OF

skill,the taste, and

hearted"

and

of

and

hung

end,

west

nanging

made

from

of the Bedouin

and

by

hang

the

matrons

skins

and

embroidered

made

of fine linen''

when

old,

burnt

in the

were

worn

sides

; over

this

red

had

of the

congregation,to

these

feast of tabernacles.

peries
drainner

youthful

more

cherubim

in

with

gold.
the

vestments,

all the

unravelled, and

spun

first or

entwined

sacerdotal

by

been

substantial

figuresof

lightblue,
also

the

Arabs,

the

On

structed,
con-

is still used

as

this

fine linen.

was

dyed

by

had

coats

skins

concealed
beautifully

it

down

roof

were

scarlet,purple, and

"

which

the

had

They

covering
over
lay directly

over

coveringof
women

the

the "wise-

outer

of tabash

in the tents
woven

The

covering of ram-skins
of goats'hair, such

another

was

industryof

of

boards

formed

was

the

that which

or

framework

TABERNACLE.

Israel.

daughters of

of the Tabernacle,
the

THE

which,
priests,

made

into

They

wicks

had

made

girdlesof needlework," which were

long,very
long pieces of fine twined linen (carried several
the body), and were
embroidered
times round
with
flowers in blue, and purple,and scarlet : the
robe
of the ephod" also for the high priest,
of lightblue,
and elaborately
wrought round the bottom in pomegranates
; and the plainephods for the priests.
But
the sun
now
was
decliningin the western
sky,
and
the busy artificers of all sorts
were
relaxing
the toil of the day.
from
the

"

"

In

camp,
he was

retired

earth like

in

the

noise

of

the

Stalwart
solitarymeditation.
frame, majesticin bearing; he trod the
of her princes; but the loftiness of his
one

paced
in

spot, apart from

one

NEEDLEWORK

demeanour

when
forgotten
surpassing benignity of his
was

accidental

his voice

as

and
involuntaryawe
understood
prohibition.

four

with

of these

some

five

or

looked

you

the

on

Each

countenance.

hushed
his footsep and
lowered
passer
he approached; more,
it should seem,
as

from

But

27

TABERNACLE.

THE

OF

loiterers

in

summers,

than

reverence

from

child

of

chase

earnest

any

some

after

brilliant

whose
golden wings glitteredin the
fly,
to the very
sunlight,heedlesslypursued it even
and to the interruption
of his
path of the Solitary,
walk.
peremptorily,the
Hastily,and somewhat
father

calls him

casting

glance around, from

that of the eagle would

brilliance

the first time

a

on

voice

whose

thee, littleone

every

"

tone

Here,

to the

whose

to

dim,

he for

Gently placing
thee," he said,

melody

blessingof the
calmly resumed

mutely returned
castinga glance of reverence

returned

look

was

"

Bless

God

of Israel be

his

walk.

to his

child, as if awed,
after

eye

Bless

the

thee," and

upon

an

the little intruder.

sees

the child's head,

hand

in

stranger looks up, and

The

away.

and

The

friends, who,

admiration,

camp.

scattered

all

are

groups

occupied

men

turally
busy idleness which will naof an intelligent
tude
multithe moments
engage
active day. Here
of
a knot
at the close of an
whose
in the prideof manhood,
flashingeyes

have

lost

in those

varied

none

kinds

around,

of

of their fire,whose

raven

locks

are

yet

tics
by a single silver line, are talkingpoliof Israel would
the warlike men
as
sucn
politics
of the promisedland and the
talk, when discoursing
serried ranks they must
hostile hosts through whose
varied

not

"

28

NEEDLEWORK

OF

their

cut

of all

intrepidway
delay,theyburn

TABERNACLE.

thither,and

whom,

to engage.

Here

"

force

natural

whose

"

ones,

THE

in

was

impatient
elder

were

degree

some

ever
lamenting the decree, howjustlyincurred, which forbade them to lay their
bones
in the land of their lifelonghope; and here
with the weight of
bowed
down
a
was
patriarch,

abated," and who

"

silver hairs

years, whose

leaned

flowed

beard

snow-white

were

his staff

upon

dealing of
days ; how the
and

Abraham,
should

land.

it will

now

"But what
the camp

is

? who

his breast, who

And

to his

recounting

Jehovah

out

"

come

upon

Most

with

High

of

his

he

as

rapt

ditors
au-

in

people

his father

visited

Jacob

unto

sworn

brought

be

promised
"

had

his shoulders, whose

was

the
ancient

lay on

that his seed

and
captivity,

behold," said

the

revisit

the

old

man,

pass."
passing in that detached
portionof
sojourn in yonder tents which attract
to

than all the others, and in

general attention
all ages and degrees seem
which
interested ? Now
a
of females
there, eagerly conversing;
are
group
Hebrew
leads her youthfuland beaumother
tiful
a
anon
to incite her
to remain
daughter, and seems
there ; now
a
ments
hoary priestenters, and in a few motrio of more
returns
a
pondering ; and anon
nances
youthfulLevites with pleasedand animated countemore

return

On

he

who

other

from

sudden

just

than

is

the

thitherward
eye turned
paced the solitaryglade

the chosen

tents.

leader

meekest
likewise

With

him

of God's
and

the

for

none

"

lawgiver,the
created beings he
attractive

spot.

every

now

"

same

host, the

jestic
ma-

mightiestof

wends

his way

enters

Aaron,

to
a

all

these
vener-

OF

NEEDLEWORK

able

man,

and

follow

wont

with

Aaron

the solemn

dance

youth of

heroic

"

Miriam

the sister of

in the springtime
bearing,
of that lifewhose
maturitywas spent in leading
the chosen race
to conquest in the promised land.
With
mates
proud and pleased humilitydid the fair inof those tents, the most
accomplishedof Israel's
daughters, displayto their illustrious visitors the
"

and

29

TABERNACLE.

hoary beard and flowingwhite robes

female
who
a majestic-looking
was

him

to lead

THE

to which

fine needlework"

had

been

now

on

for
the

"

long

of

eve

which

God

season

their

and

commanded

The

talents

which

devoted, and

completion.
had

time

was

holy

"

to be made

ments
gar"

for

beauty ;" the pomegranates on the

hem
of the high priest'srobe, wrought in blue and
girdle of
purple and scarlet ; the flowers on his
the
needlework," glowing as in life;the border
on
off
ephod, in which every varied colour was shaded
into a rich and delicate tracery of gold ; and above
all,that exquisite
work, the most beautiful of all their
productions the veil which separatedthe Holy of
Holies," the placewhere the Most High vouchsafed
his especialpresence,
where
the
but
none
high
to enter, and he but once
a
priestmight presume

glory and

for

c"

"

"

year, from

the

remainingportionsof the Tabernacle.

This beautiful hanging was
of fine white linen, but
the original
fabric was
hardlydiscernible amid the
tracerywith which it was inwrought. The
gorgeous
whole surface was
covered with a profusion
of flowers,

intermixed
such

with

fanciful devices

of every

sort,

might representthe forms of animals

seemed
Cherubims
were
rigidlyexcluded.
hovering around and grasping its gorgeous
as

"

except
these
to

be

folds;

SO

NEEDLEWORK

OF

TABERNACLE.

THE

historybe to be credited, this

drapery merited, if ever the productionof the needle
did merit, the epithetwhich English talent has since
and

if tradition

rendered

and

Sublime.'''

classical,"Needlework

of

Long, despite the advancing shades

would
the visitors have lingereduntired
this beautiful production,but one
upon
the
and immediatelyall,following
his outstretched
There

thin

the

through

and

flame

said,

"

hold!"
Be-

of

direction

the Tabernacle.

towards
is

but

gleam palely
creases,
perceptiblyit in-

eye

is fixed

seen

the

to

it

waxes

brighter,and quickly though gradually

smoke

the

while

even

to comment

spiralflame
pillarof smoke

and

stronger

looked

arm

evening,

has

of fire is in

melted
its

and

away,

tall vivid

and

place. Higher

taller it

its

broader
and broader,
spiralflame waxes
ascends
higher and higher, gleams brighter and
brighter,till it mingles in the very vault of heaven,
of the setting sun
in
with the beams
which
bathe

aspires:

fire the summits

crimson

of Sinai.

In the eastern

pure
moon

sky the stars gleam brightlyin the

ere
transparent atmosphere ; and
long the
casts
the dark
adown
pale radiant beams

ravines, and
hills and
hushed
worn

the

utters

her

gloomy

wondrous

lore

The

waste.

to

sounds

the weary labourer

seeks repose
wanderer
is at rest:
the murmuring
;

domestic
prayer

life sink
becomes

lower

and

fainter and

lower

the

of toil
;

the

fainter ;

silent
are

the toil-

sounds

of

breath

of

the

voice

of

of
praise, the evensong
Israel, comes
stealing
through the calm of evening, and now
dies softly
Nought is heard but the password of the
away.

sentinels

the far-off shriek

of

the bat

as

it

flapsits

32

IV.

CHAPTER

OF

NEEDLEWORK

"

is

How

child

wreck

There

can

alone

ruin,o'er thy

that marks

to

humbled

name

thy deep decay

story of thy

be little doubt

beholden

were

of

tells the

Now

thy glory,Egypt, pass'd away

Weep,
The

EGYPTIANS.

THE

fame!"'

former

maidens

that the Jewish

their residence

in

for that

Egypt

played
disperfectnessof finish in embroidery which was
so
worthilyin the service of the Tabernacle.
Egypt was at this time the seat of science,of art, and
learning; for it was
thought the highest summary
which could be given of Moses'
acquirementsto say
that he was
skilled in all the learning of the Egyptians.
By the researches of the curious, new
proofs
still being brought to light of the perfection
are
of their skill in various

testimonythat

the

ornamental

bore

more

arts, and

progress

stupendous and magnificent. Of

at present refer only to
we
The

with

Egyptian women
honour, and even

historians

have

gone

with

far

that

these

lighterpursuits

the

deference
as

lighterand

with

art

to say

of

with

treated

were

so

the

practiceof

out
with-

not

are

we

of the

work.
needle-

courtesy,

indeed,

that the

some

women

NEEDLEWORK

OF

33

EGYPTIANS.

THE

publicbusiness, to the exclusion of the

who
were
engaged in domestic occupations.
misapprehensionmay have arisen from the
of men
being at times engaged at the loom,

transacted
men,

This
fact

which

in all other

countries

considered

then

was

as

ever,
feminine
a
exclusively
occupation; spinning,howif not entirely,
confined
to
was
principally,
who had
attained to such perfectionin the
women,
pretty and valuable art, that, though the Egyptian
all spun by the hand, some
of the linen made
yarn was
from it was
fine as to be called
woven
so
exquisitely
air." And
recorded by
instances
there
some
are
historians which seem
tion.
fullyto bear out the appellaFor example : so delicate were
the threads
"

used

for nets,

through a

that

ring,and

mans

sufficient number
Amasis

of them

of 365

fibres

thread

of this

composed of

was

Nor

did

addition
the

Lacedemonians,

each

person
to surround

gold

of

the threads

of which

these

pass-

could
a

carry a
whole wood.
corslet

linen
were

each

to

posed
com-

presented another to
wrought with gold; and
richly
corslet, though itself very fine,

360

and

other

he

threads

beautiful

used

all distinct.
lack

manufactures

equallybeautiful

thread

would

nets

one

king of Egypt presented a

the Rhodians

the

of these

some

at this

needlework.
time

was,

the

Though
as

have

we

intimated, solid metal, still the

to

that it was
even

such
fine

tained
Egyptianshad atin the art of moulding it,
perfection
enough not merely to embroider, but

to interweave

with the linen.

The

linen corslet

of

Amasis, presented,as we have remarked,

the
fine as was
Lacedemonians, surpassingly
was

worked

with

needle

in

figuresof
c3

to

the

rial,
mate-

animals

34

OF

NEEDLEWORK

in

thread,

gold

the texture
the
to

and
the

of

from
linen

exquisite
tenuityof
of

Corslets
this

linen

linen, or twisted

may

form

gold wire

doubtless

of

idea

some

which

used

was

the

merely

for

meant

amongst the

thoraces

of hide, hemp,

the latter there

Of

texture

stronger

uncommon

made

Club.

Service
of linen

somewhat

not

cord.

specimens in

thorax

descriptiongiven of

the

was

Greeks

The

United

the
we

were

wear,

ancients.

of

which

one,

ornamental

curious

EGYPTIANS.

it.

ornament

than

THE

some

are

of the

museum
interesting

Alexander

had

double

Iphicratesordered his soldiers

cuirass, and go to
heavy metal

and

lay aside their

the arms
And
battle in hempen
armour.
among
III. at Thebes
of Rameses
painted in the tomb
is a piece of defensive armour,
or
a sort of coat
ing
coverof rich stuff,and richlyemfor the body, made
broidered
to

with
The

dress

of

and

somewhat

very

dissimilar
of

day, but
linen
and

and

more

more

richest and

figuresof lions and other animals.

the Egyptian ladies of rank was
rich
in its general appearance
not
gay:

from

the gay

value

though

sometimes

much

the

chintzes
the

as

sometimes

interwoven

lected

to adorn

in the

holybook

material

with

elegant of these
the

person

present

usually

was

stamped in patterns,
with gold threads, was

usuallyworked
most

of the

of

the
were

the queen

needle.
of
;

course

and

The
se-

when

royal Psalmist is describingthe

dress of a bride, supposed to have
Pharaoh's
been
daughter,and that she shall be brought to the king "in
raiment of needlework," he
says, as proofof the gorgeof her attire, 'her clothingis of wrought
ousness
gold." This is supposed to mean
a
garment richly
the

OF

NEEDLEWORK

embroidered

the

with

thread, after the

figures in gold
Egyptian stitchery.
more
ever
magnificently

of

Perhaps no royallady was

dowered

might

well be

the

supposed

was

Diodorus

gorgeous.

to

lake

have

her

Egypt;

of

queen

whom

Mceris, from
who

the

than

in

needle

manner

35

EGYPTIANS.

THE

the

made

and

its name,

canal, had
of the

for the introduction

the sluices

when

that

says

derived

apparel

ranged
ar-

water,

signed
everythingconnected with it, he asthe sum
as
annually derived from this source
a
dowry to the queen for the purchase of jewels,
with
the
other
ointments, and
objects connected
toilette.
The
certainlyvery liberal,
provision was
being a talent every day, or upwards of "70,700 a
this formed
only a portion of the
year ; and when
the revenues
pin-money of the Egyptian queens, to whom
of the cityof Anthylla,famous
for its wines,
were
given for their dress, it is certain they had no
to complain of the allowance
reason
they enjoyed.
The
not
were
Egyptian needlewomen
cupied
solelyoc-

established

and

in the decoration
robed

were

in rich

of their persons.

vestments,

proudest in the
worthilyoccupied. This was
which

the

to the

in this and

both
priests,

their

this notable
was

carried

and

summer

Tokens

preparation

felt that
of

source

other

of

they were
great gain

countries, as, after

ings
gods for a time, these rich offerwho of course
perquisites,
encouraged

sort
so

land

the

deities

idol

decoratingthe
were

in

The

of

devotion.

far that

some

We

are

idols had

told

that

both

winter

garments.
of

of richlyembroidered
friendshipconsisting

veils, handkerchiefs,

"c,

were

then,

it

as

now,

36

NEEDLEWORK

passing from

OF

fair hand

one

affection; and

the

as

the

mother,

last

budding hopes
untimely death, might

chief
been

EGYPTIANS-

another,

to

holy

pledges of

as

find

lover's

her

relief

fanciful

maiden

the

or

blighted by

were

shroud
by decoratingthe garment which was to enThe
the
spiritlessbut undecaving form.
proportion of the mummy-cloths which have
so
ruthlesslytorn from these outraged relics

few have
coarse
some
humanity are
; but
found
embroidered
and beautifully
delicately
;
unnatural

solicitude

The

all

been

white

to

the

boats

service
sails

used

in sacred

with
of

they were

were

finished

would

checks

and

festivals upon

the ceremony

engaged
with

or

and

coloured

the
the

the
cording
ac-

deity
edges

hem

or

occasionallybe variegated with

embarked

Antony, poeticalas
in detail.

for the

as

appropriate symbols,

slightembroidery.
of
Shakspeare'sdescription
she

in

interwoven

some

the nature

border, which

when

was

phoenix,with flowers, and various

devices.
and
fanciful
Many also

decorated

were

in whose

too

the

emblems

stripes. The
Nile

well

as

the

affection.

sails of vessels

of commerce,

was

it

pleasure-boats. The ordinary

but the king and his grandees on
of sails richly emmade
broidered
use

painted, and

were

of

occasions
with

other

undying

and

of native

were

gala

and

of the

embroidering
pursued as an article
decoration

that this difference

to suppose

result of feminine

sails

her

to

of

is not

reaved
be-

office of love, the

widow,

desolate

whose

sorrows

THE

on

it

the

is, seems

barge of Cleopatra
river Cydnus to meet
the

to

be

rigidlycorrect

NEEDLEWORK

Enobarbus.
The

sat

the

on

in. like

winds

"Which
The

to the tune

beggar'd all

In

gold;

perfumed, that
the

For her

:
description

own

person,

lie

did

she

made

faster,

to follow

they beat,

silver;

were

oars

kept stroke,and

of flutes

of their strokes.

amorous

It

so

throne,

beaten

was

love-sick with them

were

water, which

As

37

EGYPTIANS.

burnish'd

the poop

water:

Purple the sails,and

The

THE

I will tell you.

"

she

barge

Burn'd

OF

her

pavilion(clothof gold,of tissue),

O'erpicturingthat Venus, where we see
The
Stood

fancy outwork nature ; on each side her

pretty dimpled boys,like smilingCupids,

With
To

diverse-dlour'd

glow

And

the

what

O,

made

That

with

mermaid
the

the

Her

adomings
steers

Bethroned

in the

Whistling to
Had

gone

And

made

the

to gaze
a

gap

cool,

Nereides,

The

helm

; at the

tackle

flower-soft
the

hits the

hands,

barge

sense

citycast

her ; and

Antony,

market-place,did
air; which,
on

like the

From

the office.

upon

did

Antony

silken

; the

of those

adjacentwharfs.

people out

for

rare

strange invisible perfume

Of

seem

her i' the eyes,

tended

touches

yarelyframe

they

gentlewomen,

their bends

seeming

Swell

mermaids,

many

And

Her

"

did

did.

"

Enobarbus
So

which

cheeks

delicate

they undid,

Agrippa.

wind

fans, whose

but

sit alone,

for vacancy,

Cleopatratoo,

in nature.

It is said that the silver

oars,

"

which

to

the

tune

pierced with holes of

kept stroke," were
different sizes, so mechanicallycontrived, that the
water, as it flowed
through them at every stroke,
produced a harmony in concord with that of the
flutes and lyreson board.
Such a description
the foregoinggives a more
as
vivid idea than any grave declaration, of the elegant
luxury of the Egyptians.

of flutes

3S

OF

NEEDLEWORK

It

were

collect

to

easy

THE

EGYPTIANS.

Bible

the

from

instances

Egyptian embroidery,
but one
verse
(Ezek. xxvii. 7), when the prophet is
addressingthe Tyrians, specifically
points to the
Fine
linen,
subject on which we are speaking :
from
that which
work
with broidered
Egypt, was
thou spreadestforth to be thy sail/'"c.
A common
but beautiful styleof embroidery was
draw
of linen which
to
out
entirelythe threads
formed
the body of the
the weft, and
to re-form
material, and vary its appearance,
by working in
in which

is made

mention

of

"

various

stitches

and

with

colours

different

on

the

alone.

warp

and

Chairs
made

of

fauteuils
and

ebony

ivory, were

in

Egyptians.

These

in the

of

other

present day, with

"c.

every

but

different

with

inlaid

woods,

amongst

covered,

were

elegant form,

most

rare
use

common

stamped leather,

the

the
is the

as

variety of

many
coloured

were

with

ancient

fashion

rich

likewise

wools, with

stuff,
broidered
em-

silk

and

in the
The
couches
too, which
gold thread.
for the
daytime had a rich covering substituted
night bedding,gave ample scope for the displayof
the inventive
genius and perseveringindustry of
the busy-fingered
Egyptian ladies.
We
have given sufficient proof that the Egyptian
females were
accomplishedin the art of needlework,
and
fond of
we
naturallyinfer that they were
may
it. It is a gentle and
social occupation, and
a
fere
usefullyemploys the time, whilst it does not inter-

with

the current

conversation.
and

an

The

animated

of

the

thoughts or the flow of

an
Egyptians were
intelligent
and
the sprightlyjest or
race;

40

OF

NEEDLEWORK

maker

of

she

each

with

own

the

and

the

in

other

women

of their

We

jewels of

of their
the

'

silver

raiment,'

arrangement

plaitedhair."
indebted

much

too

are

vied

class

every

displayof

of their sandals, and

the neatness

beauty

of

the texture

jewelsof gold,'in

and

or

style,and the materials of

her
coveted
neighbour's,or preferred

wore,

her

EGYPTIANS.

it was
earring,or the shop where
anxiouslyinquired;each compared

an

purchased,were
the workmanship,
those

THE

to

this author's

teresting
in-

quarrelwith him for his ungallant expositionof a very

simple painting; but we
beg to place in juxtaposition with the above
out of its place) an
(though otherwise somewhat
work
characterised
from
extract
a
by no means
by
complacency to the fair sex.
unnecessary
Cet homme
passe sa vie a forgerdes nouvelles,'
dit alors un
me
qui etait assis aupres
gros Athenien
II ne
de moi.
s'occupe que de choses qui ne le
touchent
interieur me
suffit.
point. Pour moi, mon
J'ai une
femme
fit
que j'aime beaucoup;' et il me
Hier
l'elogede sa femme.
je ne pus pas souper
de mes
amis ;' et il
elle, j'etaisprie chez un
avec
fit la description
du repas.
Je me
retirai chez
me
moi
Mais
content.
assez
j'aifait cette nuit un r"ve
Ensuite
son
reve.
qui m'inquiete;' et il me raconta
volumes

"

to

'

'

'

il

dit

me

pesamment

d'etrangers;que
valaient
etaient

pas

ceux

les

la
que
homines

d'autrefois;

bas

ville

fourmillait

d'aujourd'huine
que

les

denrees

bonne
prix ; qu'on pourraitesperer une
recolte, s'il venait a pleuvoir. Apres m'avoir
dcmande
le quantieme du mois, il se leva
aller
pour
souper

avec

sa

femme."

41

CHAPTER

NEEDLEWORK

OF

V.

THE

GREEKS

AND

ROMANS.

Supreme
Sits the virtuous housewife,
The

tender

mother

"

O'er the circle

The

presiding,
prudentlyguiding;
girlsgravelyschooling

The

boys wiselyruling;

Her

hands

And

ceasing
increasing;
doubling his gains

From

labours

And

With

She
Of

her

orderlypains.

pilesof rich treasure

With
And

never

winds
winds

round

the

till the

"

the snow-white

And

storehouse

she

spreads,

loud-whirringspindleher

bright-polish'd
presses
linen

the brilliant and

Blends

the

resteth

and

wool
glittering

solid in constant

are

threads:
full

endeavour,

never."
J. H.

Merivale.

opinion amongst the classical

than
nations
of antiquity,
that no less a personage
Minerva
old fashions
herself, a maiden
affecting
and
visited earth to teach her favourite
formality,"
nation the mysteries
of those implements which are
It

was

admitted

an

"

called
the

"the

arms

distaff and

Grecian

dames

of every

virtuous

woman;"

viz.

spindle. In the use of these the

skilled ; in fact,
were
particularly

42

NEEDLEWORK

GREEKS

THE

OF

ROMANS.

AND

spinning, weaving, needlework, and embroidery,

formed
the chief occupation
of those whose
rank exonerated
in more
them, even
primitivedays,from the
menial
drudgery of a household.
The
Greek
females led exceedinglyretired
lives,
share of the
to a
being far more
charilyadmitted
than
of these privirecreations
of the nobler sex
we
leged
days. The ancient Greeks were
very
nificent
magmagnificent senators, magnificent
very:
warriors, magnificentmen
a
people
; but they were
trained from the cradle for exhibition and publicity
;
domestic
sequently
Conlife was
quite cast into the shade.
thrown
their women
and
were
necessarily
to
greater distance, till it happened, naturally
distinct comto form
munity;
a
enough, that they seemed
"

and
secluded

certain

the

that

them.

assigned to
ones

the

apartments

distant

most

afforded

mansion

usually

were

these, in largeestablishments,

Of

alwaysappropriatedto

weie

and

the labours

of the needle.

Je

"

dirai"

ne

charsis) qu'un
"

le difference

(says the
mot

les

et

veiller

aux

exhortent

meres

l'education

sur

des etats, elles

coudre, filer,preparer
mens,

sarcastic author

mais

apprennent

soins

du

on

menage.

leurs filles

se

Ana-

filles. Suivant

des

la laine dont

of

lire,ecrire,

fait les veteEn

general,

conduire

avec

cessity
beaucoup plussur la nede se tenir droites, d'effacer leurs epaules,de
leur sein avec
serrer
un
large ruban, d'etre extr"mede
ment
sortes
sobres, et de prevenir,par toutes
un
embonpoint qui nuirait a l'elegance
moyens,

sagesse

de la taille et

Homer,

the

elle insistent

la grace

des mouvemens."

great fountain

of ancient

lore, scarcely

OF

NEEDLEWORK

THE

GREEKS

AND

43

ROMANS-

a female, Greek
throughout his whole work names
or
Trojan,but as connected naturallyand indissooccupation needlework.
lubly with this feminine
Thus, when Chases implorespermissionto ransome
his daughter,Agamemnon
replies
wrathfully
"

"

"

I will not
Find

Helen

roof in

my

her native

Argos, at

her

age

soil,

task

tissue-work."

Iris, the

And

thy daughter,till old

far distant from

her

Beneath
Of

loose

in her

ambassadress

"

own

recess

weaving

of

finds

Heaven,"

"

there

web,

gorgeous

for
Inwrought with fieryconflicts,
Wag'd by contending nations."

her

sake

Hector
the

foreseeingthe miseries consequent

destruction of Troy, says to Andromache

"

But

"

So

moves

me

then

Doom'd
A

For

to follow

says to her

then, to

task

thy

afterwards

distant
at the

shores
loom

"

abode

our

; there weave

or

spin,

maidens."

"

"

Knew

alone,

taskmistress."

again he

And

the

thee

imperiousGreek,

some

to labour

there

Argos ;

"Hence,

And

grieffor

my

to
weeping captive,

Of

And

as

grief

no

Andromache,

nought, nor

Her

Hector's

She

in her chamber

even

absence

the

while,

by report had
in the

learn'd

field alone.

at the

palace-top
splendid texture wrought, on either side
All dazzlingbrightwith flow'rs of various

hues."

upon

44

NEEDLEWORK

be

ROMANS.

"

Elusive
Fond

day, she gives

all with hope deceives.

of the bridal

hope

Did

not

For

three

While
The

AND

of it.
"

GREEKS

a proverb,
Penelope'sweb" is become
mention
unpardonable here to omit specific
thus complainsof her :
Antinoiis

Though
it would

THE

OF

all,and

to

the Sun,

long

the

years

in

she, laborious

Where,

to life the

as

fraud

royal

roll'd,

azure

behold

delusion,spread

and

spaciousloom,

wide

heaven's

through

mix'd

the various

wondrous

thread ;

figuresrise,

Thus
'

spoke th' inventive queen with artful sighs:

Though cold in death Ulysses breathes no more,
"

Cease

yet

till to

Cease,
task

of

Grecian

The

When

he, whom

Thus

she

Nor

fraud

mistrusts

The

work

she

By night

The

The
Then

The

Greek

though, from
apt

are

such

to
not

was

adorned

three

years

unfolds

with

labours

her

arts

th'

illustrious

hand.

toils ;

wiles."

rich and

was

tale.

stand,

our

of her faithless

costume

'd ;

prevail;

amazing

of female

monument

with colourless
familiarity
in
it gravelyuniform
suppose
the

fact; for

ornamental

the

this

graduallyassumed

tunic

embroidery

the characteristic

to";a

of Roman

variations

and

elegant;

our

The

was

delay,
day.

of the

took

urg'd,she perfectsher

wondrous

of

journey made,
midnight fraud survey

the

unperceiv'd we

backward

complies,
disguise.

his annual

Sun

lamp

his shade.'

train
fair

the labours

obey'd,

to grace

plied; but, studious

unseen,

as

saw,

realms

in virtue's

fourth, her maid

We

spotlessfame

the generous

revers'd

conscious

shroud

once

thrice the

Unheard,

At

royal ashes claim,

taint my

in death

want

The

his

of death.

livingmighty

Shall

While

we

Fates

hour

bequeath

ornaments

matrons

great Laertes

the

bridal

the

to urge

his
grief,

Lest, when

while

from

was

statues,
its

hue,
often

of all sorts.
costume

its primitive

NEEDLEWORK

OF

of hue,
simplicity
general considered
unless
The

GREEKS

THE

even

set off

stuff,cut

of

at

dresses

the

others

modest

more

of these the dresses

drawn

the

from

Romans

used

three, four, up

two,

number

the

of

twisted, which

or

45

ROMANS.

length the triumphant

the royalpurpletoo unpretending,
by a rich embroideryof gold.

until

first embroideries

bands

AND

Greek

to

they put
only one

seven

the

on

band

from

the

always

names,

dilores, trilores,

molores,

and

their

took

but

were

tetralores,"c.

Pliny

derive

writers

The

"

hath

of

accounts

of ancient

been

ancient

most

garments

after

Varro

M.

another.

Sangus

there

his booke

wrote

distaff and

Fortune,

the

made

her

chamlot

Homer

even

the old

world

with

colours

in France

the Parthians
among
writeth that within
the

continued
the wooll

used

the

unto

time

after

temple
that he

that

wise
ladyTanaquil,otherCaia Cecilia, spun ; together with her
spindle: as also within the chapel of

named

in

and

sort,

one

for

and

great delighttherein.

out

set

great haire

highlycommended

tooke

is
tapestrie

this

But

time

and

much,

same

with the round

worke
tapestrie
that they of

of in

witnesseth

himself
the

rough wool

coarse

accounted

to

their

authoritywhence

needlework.

and

of

the

be

to

seems

in

weare.

wave

worke,

And

from

Rome,

at

wedded,

there

trimmed

and

yearne

roiall robe

with
upon

which

hence

that

attended

mantle

of estate,

manner

of water

upon

The

Servius

maidens
them

wooll,
said

Tullius

the

came

when

kombed
it.

or

after the

hands

own

custome

and

very

a
as

used

fashion
to

were

and

be

distaffe,dressed
also

Tanaquil

spindle
was

the

46

NEEDLEWORK

first that
all

out

made

the

through;

THE

GREEKS

coat

or

such

AND

right
beginners (namely

new

as

under

white

their

plaine

writeth

damaske
that

they began

water

chamelot

shorn

e,

robes

Rome
with

also

as

which

to

came

of

"

and
the

Fenestella

Augustus

nap.
crebrae
and

called

are

thence

curled

was

richest

their gownes

use

any

the

workes.

the latter time

in
at

broad

in

brides) put

fresh

without

purple. The waved

the beginning esteemed
from
from
bravest
wearing. And
branched

woven

gowns,

of

guard

ROMANS.

cassocke

souldiers, barristers,and

young
on

OF

As

Caesar

of cloth
for those

papaveratae,

wrought thicke with floure worke, resembling poppies,

and smooth, they be of greater
or
pressedeven
in the time of Lucilius the poet
for even
:
antiquitie
Torquatus was noted and reprovedfor wearing them.
The long robes embrodered
before, called praetextae,
The
devised
Trabeae
first by the Tuscanes.
were
roiall robes, and
I find that kings and princes
were
In Homer's
them.
time also they used
onlyware
with
imagerie and floure,
garments embrodered
work, and

from

thence

As

for embroderie

the

Phrygians

derers

in Latine

the

came

itselfe and
invention
bee

called

triumphantrobes.

needle-worke, it

and

hereupon
phrygiones.And

was

embroin the

Asia

the first that devised

king Attalus was
cloth of gold : and thence
such colours to be
come
called Attalica. In Babylon they used much
to weave
same

their cloth of divers colours,and

amongst them, and cloths

Babylonica. To

weave

threeds

both

sundrie

colours, was

in woofe

so

cloth of
and
the

this

was

wrought
tissue

warpe,
invention

and

ing
great wearwere

with
the

called
twisted
same

of Alexandria

of
;

48

NEEDLEWORK

THE

OF

gold thread as
consistingof

AND

GREEKS

we

referred

the

metal

to in

priorchapter,as

alone

ROMANS.

beaten

and

out

of silk or woollen.
any intermixture
TarquiniusPriscus had also a vest of this gorgeous

rounded, without

and

continued

wire

there
and

be

to

the

until

probably

Agrippina. Gold thread

of metal
made
entirely

likewise

had

as
description,

time

of

Aurelian,

found
in
instances
any
Pompeii of the silken thread
been

have

nor

Herculaneum
with

gold

coating.
examples will suffice to show that it was
of the ancient
not
usually the material
garments
them
which
so
mental
high a value, but the ornagave
embellishments
with which they were
wards
afterinvested by the needle.
and
Modes
The
to have been
Babylonians seem
most
highly celebrated for their stuffs and tapestries
sorts which
of various
were
figuredby the needle ;
the Egyptians certainly
rivalled,though theydid not
These

them

surpass
attained
art.

wrent

and
quen
But

and

the Greeks

also

seem

have

to

high degree of excellence in this pretty

The
epoch of embroideryamongst the Romans
far back
the Etruscans
as
as
Tarquin, to whom
presented a tunic of purple enriched with gold,
of purple and
mantle
other colours,
tels
a
portoient les rois de Perse et de Lydie."
the wonted
soon
luxury banished
austerityof

Rome

habit

"

; and

alarmed

when

Csesar

embroidered

appeared

We

and

scandalous

at

have

any

of

referred

to

his

in

first showed

himself

fringed, this
those
real

who
and

former

had

in

innovation
been

not

important

vations.
inno-

chapter to

the

NEEDLEWORK

THE

OF

GREEKS

AND

49

ROMANS.

of sendinggarments as presents,as marks

practice
of respect and
precatory
deas
or
or
friendship,
propitiatory
the illustrious ladies of
And
offerings.
the classical times had such a prophetical
talent of
that they were
found
ever
possessed,
preparation,
of store of garments richly
when
occasion required,
fair fingers,or under
embroidered
by their own
their auspices. Of this there are
numerous
amples
exin Homer.
When

wishes

Priam

preparingother

after

open'dwide

he

Of

various

As

many

To

which

When

he

added

Her

various textures
chose

Beneath
Like

the

robes ;

many

equal store."

an

to leave Menelaus
with

"

careful eyes

of unnumber'd

largest;

fair hands

with

no

embroider'd

dyes,
vulgar art
every

part :

the rest it

radiant

much

That

as

he took

singlecloaks

twelve

revolv'd

queen

twelve

mantles

is about

beauteous

own

tor,
Hec-

lids
sculptur'd

vests

The

Her

the

carpets,with

Telemachus

And

may

beautiful

the

body of
propitiatory
gifts,

chests,whence

Of texture

to redeem

of

lay divinely
bright,
Hesper o'er the gems of night."

this work

be inferred from

the

highly beautiful
of the robe oi
description
was

Ulysses:

"

"

In the rich woof

Bore

on

full

hound, Mosaic

drawn,

stretch,and seiz'd a dappled fawn

Deep in the neck his fangs indent their hold ;

They pant and strugglein the moving gold."
And

this robe,
*

To

In

Penelopesays,

happierhours

invest

her artful hand

visitor with

an

employ'd."

embroidered

robe
D

was

50

NEEDLEWORK

OF

the

considered

very

GREEKS

THE

ROMANS.

AND

highest mark

of

honour

and

regard.
When

Telemachus

Menelaus

magnificentcourt

of

"

"

bright damsel train attend

liquidodours and embroidered

With

"

is at the

Give

the

guests

vests."

to the

dues:
strangerguest a stranger's
Bring gold,a pledge of love ; a talent bring,

vest,

robe."

in order
The

And

robes, the

vests

roll'd
are

rang'd,and beaps

of

gold:

adding rich dress inwrought with art,

A giftexpressive
of her bounteous
heart,
Thus
spoke (thequeen) to Ithacus."
When

Cambyses wished to attain some

point
from
an
Ethiopian prince,he forwarded, amongst
other presents,a rich vest.
The
Ethiopian,taking
it was,
the garment, inquiredwhat
and how it was
made
its glittering
; but
tracery did not decoy the
Xerxes
arrived
at
prince. When
unsophisticated
Acanthos, he interchangedthe rites of hospitality
with the people,and presentedseveral with Median
readers
the
will remember
vests.
Probably our
of Alexander
circumstance
making the mother of
rich vestures, probably
Darius
a
present of some
of woollen
fabrics, and tellingher that she might
learn the art of weaving
make
her grandchildren
the royal lady felt insulted
and
them
; at which
considered
ignominious by
deeply hurt, as it was
in wool.
to work
the Persian women
Hearing of
himself
Alexander
waited on
her misapprehension,
and most
terms
her, and in the gentlest
respectful
told the illustrious captivethat, far from meaning

THE

OF

NEEDLEWORK

any offence, the

misled him ; and

custom

GREEKS

of his

his

onlya present from

wrought by their own hands.
Outre
the
and

as

appear

own

some

present day,the

of the

boldest

of

51

ROMANS.

country
he had

that the vestments

not

were

AND

had

offered

royal sisters,but

flaringpatterns of
them
be quiet
must

compared with those we read of

figures,but birds
formerly,when not only human
and animals, were
wrought not merely on hangings
and
carpets but on wearing apparel. Ciampini
givesvarious instances.*
What
of
changes,says he, do not a long course
now,
except in the theatre,
years produce! Who
rebus
at a carnival or masquerade (spectaculis
or
ac
endure
would
ludiciis),
garments inscribed with
and paintedwith various
?
and titles,
verses
figures
Nevertheless, it is plain that such garments were
used in ancient times.
To
constantly
say nothing
of Homer, who assignsto Ulyssesa tunic variegated
with figuresof animals ; to say nothing of the
Herodotus
relates
painted
Massagetse, whom
their garments with the juiceof herbs ;
animals
on
also read of these garments (thoughthen considered
we
antiquated)being used under the
very
unattractive

Caesars

of Rome.

They

say that
of such

Alcisthenes

the

Sybaritehad

bited
magnificencethat when he exhiit in the Temple of Juno
at Lacinium, where
all Italywas
congregated, it attracted universal
It was
attention.
nians,
purchasedfrom the Carthagiby Dionysiusthe elder, for 120 talents. It
was
twenty-two feet in breadth, of a purple grounds

garment

Ciampini,Vetera

Monimenta,

cap. xiii.

d2

52

NEEDLEWORK

GREEKS

THE

OF

AND

ROMANS.

wrought all over, except in the middle,

where were
Jupiter,Juno, Themis, Minerva, Apollo,
sleeve it had a figureof Alcisthenes,
Venus
one
: on
the other of his citySybaris.
on
is not exaggerated
this description
That
be
may
inferred from the followingpassage
from
a
homily
and Lazarus
in
Dives
on
by a Bishop of Amuasan
Pontus, given by Ciampini.
to this foolish art,
They have here no bounds
animals

with

"

for

in

invented

was

sooner

no

figuresin

of all sorts, than

garments, and
of

number
and
thus

also

kind

the

useless

art

of

picture,such
(rich persons) procure
with
those variegated

images,both

for themselves,

ing
weav-

animals
flowered

an

infinite

their wives,

children
clothed

as

of

Whensoever

they

go

abroad,

they

go,

as

it

were,

another
painted all over, and pointing out to one
with the fingerthe pictureson their garments.
For there are lions and panthers,and bears and
rocks and huntsmen
bulls, and dogs and woods, and
"

and,

in

thought of, all

drawn

forsooth, that
should

be

word,

not

everything

to the

that

life : for it

only the

was

can

be

sary,
neces-

walls of their houses

painted, but their coats (tunica)also,

and likewise the cloak (pallium)which covers
it.
The
more
jects
pious of these gentry take their subfrom the Gospel history:e. g. Christ himself
with his disciples,
of the miracles, is depicted.
or
one
In this manner
you shall see the marriage of Cana
and the waterpots ; the paralyticcarrying his bed
his shoulders; the blind man
cured by clay;the
on
with the issue of blood
woman
taking hold of the
border
(of Christ's garment) ; the harlot falling
at
"

NEEDLEWORK

the feet of Jesus

and
that

GREEKS

THE

OF

; Lazarus

AND

from

coming

53

ROMANS.

the

tomb

they fancy there is great piety in all this, and

putting on such garments must be pleasingto

God."

figuredwith

palmated garment was

a triumphal or
leaves, and was
The

is referred
I have

"

to in

of

name

divine

our

In allusion
celebrates

weffcs and

both

who

first to thee, O

more

To

me,

To

separate two

Sabina,
I have

So

verses

weave,

Minerva, leave

chaste

latter to the Muses

The

it appears

they
a

things so

;
:

sin

akin,

near

thy verses

wrote

devote

on

coat.*

my

again :
the

Whether
Or
Know

the neat
both

In both

It is

rt

Licia

Ast

verse

these

arts

that

qui texunt,et

ego

rem

the

edge descried,

from

the

same

Sabina

non

inscripsi,
quae

takes

skilful
a

hand:

Carmina

Minerva

vestments

Musis,

tibi.

dissociabo,Sabina,
mea

texta

meis."

sub tegmine vestem,

probasTyrio textam
tituli.
Seu placetinscripti
commoditas
concennat
IpsiushaecDominae
utrumque venustas:

Sive

Has

geininasartes

una

Sabina

"

pride.-j-

embroidered

the

Carmina

sociam

praisedemand,

your

upon

contribuunt,casta,

Versibus
u

Tyrian robe

proceed

imagined

Licia

poetria),whose
important personages

ac

"

The

of

woven."
inter-

Ausonius

garments

simul
(textrice
those

is

:
forgotten

They

'

lettered

lives when

are

And

parent Constantine

to these

Sabina

thus

name

It

garment.

of Gratian
to Augustus :
epistle
the
a palmated garment, in which

an

thee

sent

festive

palm-

colet."

54

NEEDLEWORK

in

worn

Homer's

to those

of

OF

now

time

by

worn

making

THE

bore
the

presents,

ROMANS.

AND

GREEKS

strong

resemblance

and

the custom

Moguls

his

through

discernible

so

It is not
prevailsthroughout Asia.
in
the custom
Forbes) so much
(says Sir James
India to present dresses ready inade to the visitors
to Europeans.
to offer the materials, especially
as
In Turkey, Persia, and Arabia, it is generallythe
We
that the kings of
find in Chardin
reverse.

work,

still

Persia

had

great wardrobes,

hundred
many
and that more

there

where

were

ready for presents,

always
forty tailors were

habits, sorted,

always

than

employed in this service.

of
It is not improbable that this ancient
custom
dress as a token of
presentinga visitor with a new
at his presence,
welcome, a symbol of rejoicing
may
of the general customs
have
led to many
which
have prevailed,and do still,of having new
clothes
of joy or
at any season
festivity.New clothes are
thought by the people of the East requisitefor the
solemnization
of a time
of rejoicing. The
due
Turks,

the

even

poorest of them, would

any privationrather than be without

Great Festival.
the Bairam
There
or
of the

recorded
one

day

number

to

of

the houses

CaliphMontanser

new

is

an

submit

to

clothes

at

anecdote

Billah, that going

the

roof of his palace he saw

upper
clothes
spread out on the flat roofs
of

was

told that

was

so

Bagdat.
the

He

inhabitants

asked

the

reason,

of

and

of

Bagdat were
ing
drytheir clothes, which
they had newly washed, on
of the approach of the Bairam.
account
The
caliph

be

concerned

obliged to

wash

that

be so poor as to
any should
their old clothes for want
of new

5G

VI.

CHAPTER

"

There

was

Renown'
And

pure

It

All

wisedome

onelyjoy
wretched

all the

world

of

was

day

they

matrone

to relieve

spent in
in

well

so

for sacred

lore

say

guided evermore

soules, and

night she

And

and

was,

far away,

not

throughout the

govern'd

Whose

house

unspotted life :

Through
Of

auncient

an

SHEE-SCHOOLS."

AGES.""

DARK

THE

the

helpe

the

helplessepore

and

Meantime,

whilst

their needles

wrote

altar-clothes

; and

to adorn

Needlework
with

the

monks'

histories
other

were

pens

also

godly

dedes."

an

convenience

Queene.

employed,

that of Christ

their houses."'

is

thus

Scripture-(and more

bedes,

Faerie

"

hore,

needes

hidding of her

doing good

and

grave

his

passion for their

legend-)stories

in

Fuller, Ch. Hist.,

art

and

so

with

nuns

ings
hang-

B. 6.

indissolublyconnected
comfort

of

mankind

at

large,that it is impossibleto suppose any state of

societyin which it has not existed. Its modes varied,
of course,
accordingto the lesser or greater degrees

DARK

THE

of refinement

other

in

connected; and
"

AGES.""

when

nulla s' e detto

del

with

matters

find from

we

finquidell'

declinazione

la

57

SHEE-SCHOOLS."

Arte

which

it

was

that

Muratori

del Tessere

dopo

Imperio ; e solo in
vesti degliantichi,'we

Romano

'

fuggires' e parlatodi alcune

infer that the ornamental
needlework
of
fairly
may
the time was
not extensively
encouraged,although
laid aside.
never
entirely
The

desolation

alike in its
the

and

that

overran

greatest or

most

their thrones
the

with

needed
blazon

who

disdained

other

some

slaughteredbeast.*
who

matron

the

virtue,

eastern

far
capital,

or

embroiderer
of

triumph

habiliment

yet retained

the fair and

Roman

shunned

the

not

purple to

rather

peers from their halls did away

necessityfor professorsof the decorativG

and

The

found

was

and

There

arts.

wTorld

concerns
insignificant
from
swept monarchs

that

torrent

same

the

of

gold

than

conqueror
the skin of

the

principleof

refined

of the

maiden

from

seekingpersonaladornment,
which
might attract
any decoration
inflame the passionsof untamed
and

eyes and
All
habits
ruthless conquerors.
usual
verted,
subwere
and for long years the history
pean
of the Euroworld is but a bloodyrecord of war
and tumult,

the

of bloodshed

and

strife.

Few

the

are

in this desert of tumult

tranquillity
but those few
isles of the
guiltiness;
(i

ocean

of discord, those

gloomy landscape,are
theme.

our

with

In the most

"

a.

The

use

inclement

scanty garment

made

blood-

and

and

this

of peace

cases

blessed"

in

sunny spots in the

intimatelyconnected with

of
winter

few

the
the

of the skin

needle

for the

hardy German
of

some

was

animal."
D

"

daily
satisfied

GiuBOiN.

58

THE

DARK

necessities
be

AGES."

oflife could

superseded ;

needlework,
and
of

in

but

common

"

SHEE-SCHOOLS."

the

practice of

with

every

improving art, was kept alive

desolation
by the church, and

labours

and

collective zeal of the

remarked,

have

we

as

never,

ornamental

ennobling science
during this period
by the individual
temned
despisedand con-

monks.

Sharing [that hallowed influence which hovered

and protectedthe church
at this fearful season
over
of the
for, from the carelessness
or
superstition
of religionwere
barbarians, the ministers
spared
"

"

nunneries, with

few

some

exceptions,were

like

now

itself. They were

refugespointed out by Heaven
founded
by the sister of St. Anthony, the
originally
hermit of the Egyptian desert, and in their primitive
institution were
meant
solelyfor those who, abjuring
the world
desirous
to
for religiousmotives, were
spend their whole time in devotional exercises. But
their sphere of utility
became
afterwards
tended.
widely exsafe and peaceable asylums
They became
for all those to whom
life's pilgrimage had been
too
here
thorny. The frail but repentant maiden was
sheltered
the

from

virtuous

but

hopes had,
could

here

whom

the

the

from

scorn

uncharitable

an

sufferingfemale,

whose

whatever

been

and

weep

of

pray

cause,

in peace

tangibletrouble

more

of

while

poverty

world

earthly
crushed,
she
had

to

scended
de-

might here, without the gallingyoke of

charityand dependence, look to a refuge for those
the breaking of the golden bowl, the
evil days when
loosing of the silver cord, should disable her from
the exertions
Have

we

necessary
any

"

for her maintenance.

ay, with

all their faults and

im-

59

"SHEE-SCHOOLS."

AGES."

DARK

THE

have we, in these days

their heads
on
perfections
ings
for the blessof enlightenment,
any sort of substitute
woman
theyheld out to dependentand suffering
"

of whatever

rank

Convents
of young

schools

also

became

here

of rank, who

women

for the education

imbibed

which might
of religion
youth principles
fortitude
with patience and
to endure
which

trials of life from

them

exempt

and

and
were

no

station

in

which

many

hours

of leisure

would

confer

on

and

had

their

which

elevated

broidery
em-

would
the
rank

them.

schools, wherein

et

also

were

good sheethe neighbourhood

girlesand maids of
were
taught to read and work; and
little Latine
was
taught them therein.
leave

could

wealth

or

fine needlework

Nunneries," says Fuller,

give me

after-

those

which
occupieda conspicuousposition,
qualifythem to beguile in a becoming manner

them

enable

plishments,
they acquiredhere those accomcupations,
taught here those lighteroc-

amongst

"

early

the

to

say, if such

still continued,

feminine

times
some-

Yea,

foundations

providedno vow were obtruded

them
is least kept where
it is most
(virginity
upon
constrained),haply the weaker
sex
(besides the
inconveniences)might be heightavoidingmodern
ened
to an
higher perfectionthan hitherto hath
been attained.
That
sharpnesseof their wits and
suddenness
of their conceits
(which their enemies
allow unto
must
proved
them) might by education be iminto a judicious solidity,
and
that adorned
with arts which
now
they want, not because
they
cannot
learn, but are
I say, if
not
taught them.
such, feminine
of dayes,
foundations were
extant
now

60

DARK

THE

AGES."

"

SHEE-SCHOOLS"

haply some
virgins of highest birth would
of such places,
and I am
their fathers
sure
brothers
Miss
the

would

glad

be

elder

and

be sorry for the same."

detailed account
gives a more

not

Lawrance

duties

of

of
In consequence
taught in them.
sively
excluconvents
being considered as establishments
belonging to the Latin church, Protestant
writers, as by common
suring
consent, have
joined in cenof the many
benefits which,
them, forgetful
without
to their peculiarcreed, they
any reference
struction
calculated
to confer.
were
Although providinginfor the young,
the convent
a
was
large
"

establishment
were

the

yeomen,

and
walls

the

pupil
to

her

father's

nearly the

castle

surrounded

exercised

might
then

had

been

the

men-at-arms

the

accustomed
of

being

children, well
be
most

The

her

convent

domestic

same

while, instead
with

intelligentwomen
And

she

the

within

Thus

which

ment
establish-

the whole

indeed

castle, except

saw

rial
mano-

seneschal, esquires,
tlemen,
gen-

were

grooms,

baronial

exercised

the abbess

archer-band.

the

There

women.

lay sisters, always a numerous

largebody of domestics ; while in those

higher convents, where

there
jurisdiction,
of

of

the

nuns,

class, and

orders

for various

born

occasional

important
abbess

rangement
ar-

in
stantly
con-

and
panions.
com-

functions

presidedin
her manorial
court, the cellaress performed the extensive
offices of steward, the prsecentrixled the
and the insinging and superintendedthe library,
watched
the sick,affording
them
alike
firmaress
over
her
first
aid.
Thus, from
spiritualand medical
admission, the pupil was
taught to respect and to
were

by

women.

THE

emulate

DARK

the

AGES."

talents

of

It

was

noble,

institution

the

Here

no

of

education

the

willinglyand
teacher

was

so

boon.

as

establishment,

The

female
to

up

instruction

so

the

in addition

was

of

the

alike

by parent
willinglyoffered

character

of the

those

inmates

to

nor

teachers

gratefullyreceived
elevated, and as

was

their

mercantile

looked

were

ages

But

independent

an

proffered education

trade.

child, and
the

present.

eager

not

was

middle

school

and

portant
im-

more

canvassing for scholars, no promises

unattainable
advantages ; for the convent

was

school

it

yet

convent

well-endowed,

and

But

women.

peculiaritydid

61

SHEE-SCHOOLS."

"

the

necessary

and
was

of

character
quence
conse-

pupil."
had

who

cated
dedi-

religion,and those who were

for education,
convents
placed there
specifically
afforded
who
shelter to numbers
porary
sought only temlives

the world

from

retirement
of sorrow,

to

danger. And
merely through the very
but
chapter commences,
Our
the

when
"

convent

vows,

as

this

Stephen, so
that

have

for

the

was
era

the apprehension

with

centuries

case

which

not
our

afterwards,

comparatively civilized.

Maude
without

"

assumed
however

the veil in

taking

the

escaping from a forced

and
in the
subsequent reign, that of
corum,
little regard was
paid to law or dethe only place where
convent
a
a
was

only means

of

gentle birth, if she had riches, could

nations
of shelter and safetyfrom the machi-

of

even

chance
of

dark

was

good Queen
of Romsey,

the

marriage ;

maiden,

world

the

own

the influence

temporary protectionunder

or

of

and

under

those

who

resorted

to

any

sort

of bra-

62

DARK

THE

would

in

then

was

to

her

secure

It

compel her
possessionsto

violence

talityor

SHEE-SCHOOLS."

AGES.""

the

convents,
and

that, during the barbarism

the

upon

the untamed

irruptionof
Europe

from

that

convents

embroidery
it
and

time

of the

overthrow

were
an

and

richness

and

in

them

confusion

consequent

empire, and

who

it

"

the

the

ern
south-

overran

west,
of

alone,

in the

was

ancient

the

in

of

construction

for the service

sumptuous

even

sidered
con-

their

vestments

of the

the

at

of

art

preserved. The nuns

acceptable service to employ

talents

rich

ravisher.

still

which, being intended

were

and

remnants

some

her

hordes

which

marriage

ancient

north

the

to

church,

time

when

and

unknown
elegance of apparel were
elsewhere.*
It was
no
proof of either the ignorance
the irreligion
of the
the bad
dark
taste or
or
edifices were
fitted up with
ages, that the religious
a rich and
solemnitywhich are unheard of
gorgeous
in these days of lightand knowledge and economy.
And
besides the construction
of rich and elaborately
ornamented
for the priests,
and hangings
vestments
these being pefor the altars, shrines, "c, besides
culiarly
the occupation of the professed sisters of
religioushouses, it was likewise the pride and the
delightof ladies of rank to devote both their money
to the purchase and their time to the embroidering
of sacerdotal
to the church.
garments as offerings
"

"

Muratori

Italy even
s'hanno
conto

(Diss.25),speaking of
late

so

credere

anche

cosi

in Italia

delicati lavori
sacre

as

di

funzioni"

the

13th

rozzi

qui

Seta, che

non

the

century, adds,
nemici
era

habiliments

mean

Ma

"

del Lussa

di ornamenti

buon

potea mirare
alle

Chiese

in

questo

per

que'Secoli.

cieco,sovente

servivano

non

usual

i
e

phi
alle

64

VII.

CHAPTER

OF

NEEDLEWORK

"f

night

Last
I

saw

I dreamt

church

saw

Chalice,

and

dream

AGES.

behold

fret with

gold,
richlydight:
altar, pall,and pix,
was

With
There

DARK

THE

arras

crucifix,

font, and

And

tapers burning bright."

S. Rose.

W.

those

Over

mischance

memorials
have

left

of the
us,

past which
hath

time

curtain,, obliteratingall soft and

which
the
to

intimate

had

what

lingeron those times, and call

of the long departedto describe
useful retirement
We

would
when

at which

witness
the

we

the hour

severer

bolder
but

there.

been

as

We

thick

features

of

landmarks
would

fain

the

of recreation

duties

gentlespirits
of quietbut
scenes
only dimly guess.

up

now

drawn

and

gentle touches,

connected

harmoniouslythe
landscape,and leavingthese

chance

of the

in the

vent,
con-

cloister gave

place to the cheerful one of companionship ; and the

pale votary"quittedthe lonelycell and the solitary
in the art of
to instruct the blooming novice
vigil,
accustomed
and
embroidery, or to ply her own
"

OF

NEEDLEWORK

THE

and

The

tions,
ecstatic in their commenda-

be

in their

eager

exertions

to

rival the

fair

gratifiedthough sad smile

brightenher own palecheek as the ladyabbess
aside the richlyilluminated
volume
by which

sempstress
would
laid
her

would

ones

younger

65

AGES.

fairycreations.

its

accomplishedfingersin

DARK

whilst

attention

own

which

she had

had

from

engrossed,and

been

time

to

time

read

aloud, commenting
passages
the principles
they inculcated ;
the work

towards

short

from

and

structive
in-

and

on

forcing
en-

and

holding
that the bright
so
which
fell through

the casement,

slantingrays of the settingsun

the richly
the varied
carved
lattice might illumine
tints of the stitchery,
she would
kind and
utter
some
and praise.
encouraging words of admiration
Perhaps the work was a broidered scarf for some
father, a testimonyof gratitudeand esteem
spiritual
from the convent
tunic or
at large; perhaps it was
a
which
spoken
a girdle
some
high and wealthy lady had befor an
and
offering,and which the meek
ing
pious sisterhood were
happy to do for hire, bestowthe proceeds on
the
necessities
of the
vent
conhaps
were
; or, if those
provided,on charity. Perit was
a
pair of sandals, so magnificently
wrought as to be destined as a present by some
loftyabbot to the pope himself, like those which
of St. Albans,
Robert, Abbot
sent
to the
Pope
Adrian

the Fourth
the

of

When

Adrian

amongst

richest

Robert, Abbot
the

Fourth,

other

; and

he

alone, out of

the
offerings,

pope

titude
mul-

retained

of St. Alban's, visited his countryman

made

things three

workmanship.

which

His

him

mitres

several
and

valuable

pair of

holiness refused

his

sandals
other

Pope

presents,
of

most

and
mirable
ad-

presents,but

66

NEEDLEWORK

if it were

or

apply to

OF

DARK

THE

England (forour
the Christian world)
in

all

AGES.

domestic
it

will

scene

might

be

nificent
mag-

coveringfor the high altar, with a scripture

in the centre, and
the border,
historyembroidered
of regal purple,inwrought with gold and precious
brated
celeWe
stones.
so
say, if in England, because
the English work, the Opus Anglicum,*
was
that
nations
other
eagerly desired to possess it.
The
embroidered
of some
vestments
English clergymen
much
admired
at the Papal Court, that
were
so
the Pope, asking where
they had been made, and
being told "in England," despatchedbulls to several
lar
English abbots, commanding them to procure simifor

ones

days were

of the

Some

him.

covered

almost

with

of

vestments

gold

and

these

precious

stones.
Or

it

which

this

that

magnificentpall,in the days in

garment had lost its primitivecharacter,
the skill and
the patience of the fair

might

taxed

needlewoman.

be

It

about

was

the

a.

year

d.

601

that

Pope Gregory sent two archbishop's palls into

wards
England ; the one for London, which see was afterremoved
to
Canterbury, and the other to
York.
Fuller
of this
gives the following account
:
garment primitively
The
considerable
vestment,
pallis a pontificall
for the matter, making, and mysteries thereof.
For
"

"

"

thankfullyaccepted
their

exquisitebeauty.

work

of the mitres

of
"

Christina, Abbess

Anglicae nationis

viri in omni

valeant

These
of

and

admired

with

sandals, being charmed

piecesof embroidery were

the

Markgate.

feminse

artificio.

multum
Pero

acu

fu renomato

et

auri textura,

egregie

Opus Anglicum."
From

MuRAxour.

NEEDLEWORK

OF

I say,

DARK

of lamb's-wooll,

as

67

AGES.

and

of lamb's-wooll

it is made

the matter,

THE

it

comes

superstition.
from the

colour, spun
sheeps back, without any other artificiall
first cast
(saysome) by a peculiarorder of nunnes,
into the tombe
of St. Peter, taken from his body (say
others); surelymost sacred if from both ; and (superFor
adorned
with little black
crosses.
stitiously)
three
the form
not
thereof, the breadth exceeded
hoods
in
fingers (one of our bachelor's lamb-skin
Cambridge would make three of them), having two
labells hanging down
beforeand behind, which the
onely,when going to the altar, put about
archbishops
their necks, above their other pontificall
ornaments.
lity,
Three
couched
therein.
First, humimysterieswere
which
beautifies
the
clergy above all their
like
costlycopes ; secondly,innocency,to imitate lambindustry,to follow
simplicitie:and thirdly,
his
him who fetched his wandering sheep home
on
the mystery of
shoulders.
But
to speak plainly,
mysteriesin this pall was, that the archbishops
their dependence on
therein
receiving it showed
in this manner
Rome
a mote
ceremoniously
; and
taken

was

sufficient

And,

acknowledgment of

it owned

as

Rome's

power,

their
so

jection.
sub-

in after

pallswere

such
profit. For, though now
whose
places
freelygiven to archbishops,

in Britain

for the

ages it increased

their

present

were

rather

cumbersome

their
than
having little more
bishop
paines for their labour ; yet in after ages the archsand
of Canterburie's
pallwas sold for five thouflorenes :* so that the Pope might well have the
than

commodious,

florene is 4*. Gd.

68

NEEDLEWORK

Golden

Fleece, if lie could

THE

OF

DARK

AGES.

sell all his lamb's -wooll at

that rate."*
The

the

of

accounts

vestments

embroidered

rich

robes, sandals,

"

palls,cloaks, altar-cloths,and
in
various descriptions,
common
ages

would

"

with

which

theyare

in the dark

churches

Still these

fact.

the

attest

not

tunics, vests,
girdles,
veils or
hangings of

surpass belief,if the minuteness

enumerated
few ancient
in some

almost

did

authors

tical
ecclesias-

the

in

catalogueof church
and, as such, would, in the dry detail, be
properties,
but littleinteresting
readers. There
is enough
to our
said of them, however, to attest their variety,their
beauty,their magnificence ; and to impress one with
favourable
idea of the female ingenuityand
a very
of those
days. The cost of many of
perseverance
these garments was
for pearls and
enormous,
cious
prejewels were literally
interwrought,and the time
diffuse writers

most

and
It

labour
was

be

no

bestowed

on

of the

votaries

needle

iu
only casually,

is any

these

by

even

mere

them

on

of

pages
of them

record

bard

And

so
history,

Is cold

Noi''

"

made
and

"

The
of

when

warm

on

with

had

indefatigable
But

it is

their

names

his song

themes,

meaner

this."

on

found

crosses,

"

che

ammiriamo,

bishop'svestment, going

sheep-skin,in
he

to

that
antiquarian,

sanctifies

(says Muratori)
pall was

the

years

"

With

and

embalms

and

garment.

one

the

incredible.

for three

assiduous

"

No

almost

was

circumstance

uncommon

spent

there

are

memory

of

it laid it
and

taken

on

him

his

off the

who

con

over

the

shoulders,

sought

the

lost

shoulders

body

or

; and

it

was

sheep,
broidered
em-

coffin of St. Peter."

Camden.

NEEDLEWORK

THE

OF

69

AGES.

DARK

ragione,la belta e varieta di tante drapperie dei

da confessare
nondimeno
nostri tempi, abbiam
un
obbligonon lieve a gli antichi, clie ci hanno prima
i lumi
loro non
spianatala via, e senza
potremmo
oggidivantare un si gran progresso nell' Arti."
And

that

this

; and

suffice to show
here

to

value

refer

and

the

was

to

it may

which

few

be

not

of

out

one

beauty
(" which

case

instances

quiteout

thousand

place

articles of

lost in the

were

of

may

flagration
great con-

laid waste
the habitations
cruelly
and
of the servants
of God") of the doomed
often suffering,
but always magnificent,Croyland
that beautiful
and
Abbey. It was
costlysphere,
most
cording
curiouslyconstructed of different metals, acof copto the different planets. Saturn
was
per,
Jupiterof gold,Mars of iron, the Sun of brass,
of
Mercury of amber, Venus of tin, and the Moon
the colours of all the signs of the Zodiac had
silver
their several figuresand
colours variously
finished,
and adorned
with such a mixture
of preciousstones
so

"

and

metals

mind

the eye, while it informed

the
beholder.
Such
another
sphere was

amused

as

of every
known

not

We

ordained

the

was

mechanical

skill

Pope Eutychianus,who lived in

ferent
Emperor Aurelian, buried in dif-

be

that

interred

purple colobio.
notices

it

told that

are

reignof

account

; and

century.

places 342 martyrs

he

England

King of France."
insignificant
proof this of the

of the eleventh

the

of in

the

present from
No

heard

or

This

with

faithful
without
is

of ecclesiastical

his

martyr
a

hands

own

should

dalmatic

robe

and

on

no
or

perhaps one of the earliest

or
pridein vestments.
pomp

70

NEEDLEWORK

But

invested

Phrygian robe
in sparkling
garment

by

of snowy
threads

of

resurrection

worn

AGES.

DARK

fortyyears afterwards Pope Silvester was

with
of his attendants
by the hands

some

this

THE

OF

his

white,

and

considered

that

successors

on

it

hands

the

magnificentwas

so

ordained

was

state

traced

was

female

^y busy

Lord

our

which

on

occasions

to be

and

to

the seventh
to
at
once
century, there are
pass
records of various church hangings which had become

injured by

old age

being carefully
repairedat

expense

would

not,

we

Leo

fairlyinfer, have
at this
question,even

not

considered

been

the Third, in the

trouble

been

incurred

of

advanced

more

value

and

eighth century,was

to the church.

benefactor

and

expense

may

if the articles in

period,had
beauty.

which

siderable
con-

With

of

nificent
mag-

the vessels

which
plateand jewelsof various descriptions
in all ages
have
wrere
offeringto the church
we
nothing to do : amongst various other vestments,
Leo gave to the high altar of the blessed Peter, the
of the Apostles,a covering spangled with
Prince
with
gold (chrysoclabam) and adorned
precious
of our
Saviour
stones; having the histories both
giving to the blessed Apostle Peter the power of
also representing the
binding and loosing, and
sufferingof Peter, the Prince of the Apostles,and
Paul.
It was
of great size, and
exhibited
St.
on
Peter and St. Paul's days.*
of rich

As

Anastasius
this work

obtained

their

Bibliothecarius.
is the fountain
information

to say, decorative

ones,

Vitis Romanorum

Pontificum.

whence

with

it may

De

subsequentwriters have chiefly

regard to church vestments, that is

not

be

amiss

to transcribe

passa

72

or

NEEDLEWORK

OF

THE

purple borders, called

the

from

which

DARK

AGES.

the

blatta, from

of

name

the

obtained, were
dye was
in use.
An
much
insect,supposed to be the one so
in the writingsof the
often referred to by this name
the coasts of Guayaquil
ancients, is found now
on
The
Guatima.
and
dye is very beautiful, and is
The
easilytransferred.
royal purple so much
insect

esteemed

of old

was

different shades, for the

of very

purple,red, crimson, scarlet, are often used

a
indiscriminately
; and
pretty correct conception
be acquiredof the value of this imperialtint
may
der
Alexanthat, when
formerlyfrom the circumstance
of the cityof Susa
and
took possession
of its
other thingsthere were
treasures, among
enormous
found five thousand
quintalsof Hermione
purple,
terms

the finest in the world, which

during the

there

space

which, its beauty

had

been

of 1 90 years
and lustre were

treasured

up
ing
notwithstandno

way

nished.
dimi-

idea may be formed of the

value of this store from the fact that this
Some

sold

the

at

of

rate

100

crowns

prodigious
purplewas
pound, and the

quintalis a hundredweightof Paris.

with gold and
Pope Paschal had a robe worked
of the Virgins with lighted
gems, haying the history
torches
related:
he
had
another
of
beautifully
border
of oliveByzantine scarlet with a worked
This

leaves.

was

robes, and
time

very usual

very suitable one

in the beak of Noah's
dove

when

of comfort, it has

emblem

nations, at all times, been

This

peace.
worn

worth

over

the

decoration of ecclesiastical

pope
cassock

had

for,from

it was

the

first an

in

all ages, in all

symbolicalof plentyand
ever,

also

of scarlet silk

naming, though not

of

robe

so

; a

woven

dress

much

gold,
certainly

as

others

NEEDLEWORK

indebted

to

THE

OF

useful

our

DARK

little

calls the

"

steel."

But

another

rich and

peculiargarment,

which

and

radiant

to

the

needle-

This

hues.

was

he

had

was

tirely
en-

for its varied

woman
a

which

implement

Cowper

indebted

threaded

73

AGES.

of

robe

an

amber

colour,* hatingpeacocks.
had

hanging worked with

the needle, having the portrait
seated upon
of a man
the Fifth had four magnia peacock. Pope Stefano
ficent
hangingsfor the great altar,one of which was
that
find in romance
wrought in peacocks. We
there was
value attached
to
a
high emblematical
peacocks; not so high,however, as to prevent our
from
ancestors
eating them ; but it is difficult to
introduced
for their being so frequently
in
account
and
designs professedlyreligious. In romance
chivalrytheywere
supereminent. To mention the
peacock(says M. Le Grand) is to write its panegyrick."Many noble families bore the peacock as
Pope

Leo

the Fourth

"

their crest

successful

poet was

them.

The

and

in the Provencal

crowned

of Love

Courts

with

wreath

formed

the
of

coronation

present given to the Queen

of our
Henry the Third, by her sister,the Queen of
France, was a largesilver peacock,whose train was
with

sapphiresand pearls,and other precious

jewels,wrought with silver. This elegant pieceof
used
reservoir for sweet
was
a
as
waters,
jewellery
set

which
white
As

were

forced

out

of its beak

into

basin

of

with

all

silver chased.
the

their ideas

knights associated
of

fame, and
*

De

these

made

their

birds
most

staurace."'
E

solemn

74

NEEDLEWORK

vows

them.

on

the

them,

over

OF

THE

DARK

AGES.

highest honours

flesh is celebrated

Their

of lovers/' and

the

viand

"

as

of

conferred

were

ment
the "nutri-

worthies;" and

always the most

distinguisheddish
On
solemn
at the
banquets of princes or nobles.
these occasions it was
served up on a golden dish, and
carried to table by a lady of rank, attended
by a
a

peacockwas

train

of

damsels, and

and

high-born dames
If it
by music.

the

on

was

panied
accom-

occasion

of

knight always carved it,

so
regulating his portionsthat each individual, be
For
the company
ever
so
might taste.
numerous,
the oath, the knight rising from
his seat and
tending
exhis hand
the bird, vowed
over
some
daring
I vow
love :
to God, to the
or
enterpriseof arms
blessed
Virgin, to the dames, and to the peacock,
the successful

tournament,

"

"

"c.

"c."

In later and

less

imaginativetimes, the peacock,

to
though still a favourite dish at a banquet, seems
have been
from its affording good
regarded more
refined
attribute.
more
eating" than from
any
Massinger speaks of
"

"

fat wethers

Of three
Make

In
into
end

sauce

of

adjurationof
mouth

bruised

carcases

for gravy,

to

singlepeacock."

Shakspeare's time the bird was usuallyput

head, richlygilt,
a pie,the
being placedat one
of the dish, and the tail,spread out in its full

circumference,

into

for

the

at

the

those

days.

former

the absurd
of Justice

oath

And

other.
The

generacy
alas ! for the de-

solemn

and

dwindled

times

had

which

Shakspeareputs

Shallow

"

even

then

knightly
into the

OF

NEEDLEWORK

cock and

By

"

In

DARK

Sir,you shall

pye,

of the

some

THE

not

75

AGES.

away

to

night."

tapestriesbirds

French

of

all

shapes,natural and unnatural, of all sizes and in all

form very importantparts of the subjects
positions,
themselves
is hardly in place
; though this remark
of later date, and not solely
here, as the tapestries
are
needlework.
in

To

return, however

old chronicle

an

is made

mention

antiquitasCongregatioAncil-

of

laecclesiam
plumario ornamenta
discussion
borabant.
It has been a subjectof much
this Opus Plumarium
whether
rangement
arsome
signified
of real feathers, or merely fanciful embroidery
of
Abbot
in imitation of them.
Lytlyngton,
the Fourth's
time, gave to his
Croyland,in Edward
church
nine
of cloth of gold, exquisitely
copes
feathered.*
tion.
imitaThis was
perhaps embroidered

larum, quce opere

to this

with

which

vestment

presented
of silk embroidered

abbey was made

gold. Richard Upton,

eaglesof

silk embroidered
gave
and about the same
time

in

Venetian

of

elected abbot

with

1417,

copes ;
rich robe
a

Great

the

Cnute

John

blue

falcons

Freston

embroidered

for

gave
with

imitations
golden eagles. These were
positively
merely; yet they evince the prevailingtaste for
feathered

work, and,

themselves
Paul

Pope
a

mantle
And

for
*

much

were

the Third

used.
sent

with

interwoven
from

we

as

whatever

have

shown,

feathers

It is recorded

King Pepin a present

feathers.
peacocks'

circumstance

the

even

yet,

Opere plumarioexquitissimepraeparatas."

f In
is drawn
limbs

of

reverence

it is not,
peacocks'feathers originated,!
"

that

the classical ages,

by peacocks

with

mantle

; and

formed

they were in high repute. Juno's chariot

Olympian Jove himself invests his royal
of their feathers
E

76

NEEDLEWORK

THE

OF

AGES.

DARK

lingeringremnants
quiteexploded. There are some
of a superstitious
regardfor them which may have
and
stances.
circumtheir origin in these very times
had
how
For
surely,where they are rigidly
monies,
traced, are
our
vulgar cerecountry customs,, our
our
apparentlyabsurd and senseless usages,
from
found
to emanate
some
principleor superstition
of general and prevailingadoption. In some
counties

enter

cannot

we

farm-house

where

the

mantel-piecein the parlouris not decorated with a

diadem
of peacock feathers, which
are
carefully
of more
dusted
and preserved. And
in houses
suming
ascustom
pretensions the same
frequently
a
prevails; and we knew
lady who carefullypreserved
some
peacock feathers in a drawer long after
her association with people in a higher station than
that to which
she originally
belonged had made her
ashamed
to displaythem
in her parlour. This could
be

not

for

attached
have

arisen

with

the

from
Vow

whit

seems

circumstances
of

with
care
religious
by many who
is not

there is

them, which

to

"

ornament

mere

more

the
which
care

idea of luck

some

improbablyto
connected
originally
not

any rate, the

peacocks'feathers are preserved
not for them
ornaments,
as

Peacock."

ridiculous

At

than

people
their pockets when
joyfullyfasten a
to

see

in
the money
gravely turn over
they first hear the cuckoo, or
dropped horse- shoe on their threshold, or shudderin their
lie across
ingly turn aside if two straws
path, or thankfullyseize an old shoe accidentally
met
with, heedless of the probable state of the beggared
foot that may unconsciously
have left it there,
or

any

other

of the

million

unaccountable

customs

NEEDLEWORK

OF

DARK

THE

77

AGES.

which

and which
and
enliven country life,,
diversify
still prevail and
flourish, notwithstandingthe extensive
travels and
of the
sweeping devastations
modern
Do

not
"

"

schoolmaster."

"

findingthe

on

Fortune

! I thank

Not

that

She

would

have

heel of

Nor

shoe

?"

giving
thanks-

"

! thanks

though bashful, shall deny

thanked

in her way

thee

rather,hadst

for neither

earlybreakfast,to dispelthe

And

Cowper's

thee, gentle goddess

muse,

my

treasure

Of

recollect

readers

our

thou

cast

meed

fumes

bowel-rakingpains of emptiness,
noontide

ev'ning'scool repast,
Hopes she from this presumptuous, though perhaps
The
artist,
might.
cobbler,leather-carving
feast,nor
"

Nathless

thanks

she

Whatever

; not

erst the

as

Vain-gloriousfool !
Spurned
Why

not

on

thou

that

me

Return
We

to

blindness

clear

merely in

gavest

he

him.

Wherefore, ah

thou

art

shall

blind, thou sayest:

the

excuse

purposes,

deed."'

the

proof that,before

the

found,

needlework.

our

century,our

necessary
the

thy

we

have

seventh
not

cock,

what

favour, (worthiersure!)

Conferr'dst,goddess !

Enough

fabled

unknowing

rich gem

the

accepts thy boon,

thee, and

use

fair

countrywomen

of the
but

needle

also in

its

end
were

of the
skilled

applied to
applicationto
as

and

varied

elegant embroidered
garments to
which
have
so
we
frequentlyalluded, as forming
They were
propertiesof value and consideration.
executed
chiefly
by ladies of the highest rank and
indeed, by those of
greatest piety" very frequently,
and were
royal blood
usually(as we have before
of the
the embellishment
to
observed) devoted
"

church,

or

the

decoration

of its ministers.

It

was

78

NEEDLEWORK

THE

OF

AGES.

DARK

bequeath such properties. I give,"

said the wife of the Conqueror,in her will, to the
at
Abbey of the Holy Trinity,my tunic worked
Winchester
broidered
emby Alderet's wife, and the mantle
with gold, which
to
is in my
chamber,
make
Of my two golden girdles,
I give that
a cope.
unusual

not

to

"

"

which

is ornamented

with

emblems

"of

suspending the lamp before

Amongst some
costly presents
Queen

of Edward

the

Second,

for the purpose

the

great altar."*

sent

the

to

by Isabella,
Pope, was a

and
studded
with
magnificent cope, embroidered
largewhite pearls,and purchased of the executors
of Catherine
tween
Lincoln, for a sum
equivalentto beand
thousand
three
two
pounds of present
Another
pany
cope, thought worthy to accommoney.
of an
also the work
it, was
Englishwoman,
Rose
and

de Bureford, wife of John

de

Bureford, citizen

of London.

merchant

of
being made
them
of
relic,or from the representationon
some
holythings,were held sacred, and much superstitious
faith placed in them ; consequentlythe pious and
industrious
much
finger was
occupied in working
them.
he fought the eighth
King Arthur, when
battle against the Saxons, carried the "image of
Christ and
of the blessed
Mary (alwaysa virgin)
either

Anciently,banners,

his shoulders."

upon

great Christian

laid

was

wrought with gold. When

to preachto the Saxons, he
him, with
*

The

name

to the

banner,
of Dame

on

Leviet

Conqueror

the tomb

Over

hero,

and

from

St.

his

banner

of

Augustine

had

which
has

of Oswald,

was

descended

Queen.

cross

purple

first came

borne

the ima^e
to

the

posterityas

before
of
an

our

broiderer
em-

SO

NEEDLEWORK

This
the

the

so

far, says

fortunes

of those

was

THE

OF

AGES.

DARK

spoiling

historian, from

that it proroyal spinsters,

cured
them
the addresses
of the greatest princes
then
in Europe, and
in whom
the whole
one,
demanded
from
of beauty had centered, was
essence
her brother by Hugh, King of the Franks."
"

Our

fair readers

what
suitor
"

take

may

ing
in know-

interest

some

the

were

propitiatory
offeringsof
days.

of those

Perfumes,

such

had

never

as

England before; jewels,but

noble

been

in

seen

ralds,
especiallyemethe greenness
of which, reflected by the sun,
illumined
the countenances
of the bystanders with
agreeable light; many fleet horses, with their trappings,
and, as Virgil says,
champing their golden
bits ;'an
alabaster vase,
chased, that
so
exquisitely
the corn-fields really
seemed
the vines to
to wave,
and
bud, the figures of men
so
actuallyto move,
clear and polished,
that it reflected the features like
more

'

; the

mirror

which

the

sword

golden letters ; on
of gold,might be
the four which

hurled

always
the

by

same

of

in his
came

fixed

seen

our

Lord

wound,

mortals; the

an

faction
;

the

Great,
read

was

of

the

Charles

Emperor

expeditionsagainst the Saracens,

off conqueror
reported to
; it was
of

the
the

side of

banner

of

of
the

that

opened,by
paradise to

Maurice, chief of the Theban

most

be

cious
pre-

wretched

blessed

legion,with

he

Saviour

our

centurion,

joys

in

thick

invincible

into the

on

plates
of
iron spike,one
prepared for the

spear

that

whenever

which, driven

the hand

the

originalpossessor
the pommel, upon

the Jewish

which,

Great,

Constantino

of its

name

crucifixion

of

martyr

which

the

NEEDLEWORK

OF

THE

DARK

81

AGES.

used
to break
King, in the Spanish wa
through the battalions of the enemy, however tierce
and
wedged together,and put them to flight
; a
diadem, precious from its quantityof gold,but
for its jewels,the splendourof which threw
more
so
the sparks of light so
stronglyon the beholders,
that the more
endeavoured
steadfastly
any person
same

to

avert

to

adorable

the

much

so

gaze,

cross

his

eyes ;
in
enclosed

piercingthrough the
discern

the

portion of

colour
the

and

where
crystal,

the

eye,

of the stone,

size of the wood

which, in derision

manner,

the madness

of the soldiers

pelled
com-

"

holy

of thorns

crown

was

part of the

substance

and

he

dazzled

more

enclosed
of his

in

might
small

a
a

lar
simi-

government,

Christ's sacred

placedon

head.

King (Athelstan),delightedwith such

presents,made an equal retura
great and exquisite
the soul of the longing
and gratified
of good offices,
With
of
suitor by a union with his sister.
some
these presentshe enriched succeedingkings; but to
Malmesbury he gave part of the cross and crown
; by
the support of which, I believe,that place even
now
flourishes,though it has suffered so many shipwrecks
attacks of its enemies."*
of its liberty,
so
many
It is not to be supposed that at a time when
the
"whole
island" was
said to
blaze" with devotion,
and when, moreover,
fair daughterssurher own
passed
"

The

"

the

English

whole

churches

were

adornments.

Far

to enumerate

many,
*

world

in

needlework,

deficient

in

otherwise, indeed.
because

Will, of

our

that

the

its beautiful
We

forbear

chapterhas already

Mdmefcbury,

156.

82

NEEDLEWORK

OF

AGES.

DARK

THE

cularize
prescribedlimits ; but we may partidered
a golden veil or
hanging (vellum),embroiof Troy,which Witlaf,
with the destruction
King of Mercia, gave to the abbey of Croyland;

exceeded

and

its

the coronation

mantle

he gave
embroidered

of Harold

the

of Cnute, which

to

of silk,and

with

Richard, who

1119, made

was
a

to

his

son

abbey, made
Hesperian apples."
same

of St. Alban's

abbot

present

"

Harefoot,

from

monastery of

1088
a

to

suit of

of the
hangingswhich contained the whole history
primitivemartyr of England,Alban.
Croyland Abbey possessed many
hangings for
the altars, embroidered
with golden birds ; and
a
and
to have been a peculiar,
garment, which seems
considered
valuable
a
one,
being a black gown
wrought with gold letters,to officiate in at funerals.
The enigmatical
worked
siastical
eccleletters which were
on
and
various
in those days,were
vestments
and have
quarian
peculiar,
given abundant
scope for antiresearch.

they took

We

their rise in

have

heard

times

of

it surmised

that

persecution,
being
indications
tatious
(then, doubtless, slight and unostenones) by which the Christians might know
each other.
But they came
into more
generaluse,
not merelyas symbolicalcharacters,but individual
names
were
wrought,and that not on personalgarments
alone,for Pope Leo the Fourth placeda cloth
the altar woven
with gold,and spangled all over
on
each side (rightand left)
with pearls. It had
on
with gold,within which
the name
a circle bounded
written in preciousstones.
of his Holiness was
In
old paintingsa letter or letters have been
many
noticed on the garment of the principal
and
figure,
of the
they have been taken for private marks

OF

NEEDLEWORK

painter,but
that they are

it is

THE

DARK

AGES.

83

probable, says Ciampini,*

old garments, or
either copied from
the dignityof the character
intended
to denote
are
to which
they are attached.
We
ing
will conclude
the present chapterby remarkthat one
of the most
magnificentspecimens of
ancient

more

needlework

in

existence, and

which

is in

is the State Pall belonging

preservation,
The
end piecesare
to the FishmongersCompany.
similar,and consist of a picture,
wrought in gold and
robes,
silk, of the patron, St. Peter, in pontificial
with the
seated on
a
supurb throne, and crowned
papal tiara. Holding in one hand the keys,the
other is in the posture of giving the benediction,
and on each side is an angel,bearing a golden vase,
excellent

from

which

he scatters

incense

over

the Saint.

The

to old custom, are composed

angel'swings,according
feathers in all their natural vivid colours ;
of peacocks'
their outer robes are gold raised with crimson ; their
under
vests
white, shaded with sky blue ; the faces
are
finelyworked in satin, after nature, and they
have long yellow hair.
There are various designson the side pieces
; the
most
important and conspicuousis Christ delivering
the keys to Peter.
Among other decorations are, of
the arms
of the company,
course,
richlyemblazoned,
and mermaid,
the supportersof which, the merman
in gold armour,
worked, the merman
are
beautifully
in white
the mermaid
silk, with long tresses in
golden thread.
This
has promagnificentpiece of needlework
bably
in this country.
no
parallel
*

Vet. Mon.

cap.

13.

84

CHAPTER

BAYEUX

THE

"

Great

PARTI.

TAPESTRY.

Needlework

discussion

VIII.

sublime."

has

"

taken

Covvper.

place amongst

the

regard to the exact time at which the

cept
Bayeux tapestrywas wrought. The question,exof curiosity,
matter
is,perhaps,of little
as
a
account
fiftyyears earlier or later, nearlyeight
hundred
It had alwaysbeen considered
years ago.
the work
of Matilda, the wife of the conquering
as
Duke
of Normandy until a few years ago, when
the
learned

with

"

de la Rue

Abbe

started and

endeavoured

to maintain

the

hypothesisthat it was wrorked by or under the

direction of the Empress Matilda, the daughter of
Henry the First.* But his positions,as Dibdin
all of a negative character, and,
observes, f are
according to the strict rules of logic,it must not

"

be admitted, that because

noticed

not

such

and

such writers have

circumstance, therefore that

vol.
Archeeologia,

xvii.

circum-

Biblio. Tour, vol. i.,138.

BAYEUX

THE

stance

event

or

taken

have

cannot

85

TAPESTRY.

place."

Hudson

Gurney, Charles A. Stothard, and Thos. Amyott,

Esqrs. have all publishedessays on the subject,*
which
the fact of the
establish almost to certainty
productionof this tapestryat .the earlier of the two
for, viz. from 10G6 to 1068.
periodscontended
In
this we
because
this Herculean
bour
larejoice,
round
has a halo of deep interest thrown
it,
from the circumstance
of its being the proud tribute
of a fond and affectionate wife,gloryingin her husband's
glory,and proud of emblazoning his deeds.
As the work
of the Empress Matilda
it would
still
be a magnificentproductionof industryand of skill;
work

the

as

of

Duke

"

in others

merge

wife

William's"
of

these

lities
qua-

racter,
interestingcha-

more

f
This

and

excellent

amiable

princesswas

most

and remarkable
for her
highlyaccomplishedwoman,
learning; she was the affectionate mother of a large
monarch,
family,the faithful wife of an enterprising
with whom
she lived for thirty-three
moniously
years so harthat her
husband

as

to

Archaeol.

One

writer,Bolton
the expense
from

devised

within

female

influence:

the

effect

an

her

on

never
relinquish,
amusements.
J

again

to

Coniey, Esq., maintains that this work was

of the Chapter of Bayeux, under their superintendence,

their

designs.

precinctsof
it could

not

celibalic

superintendence. It

scenes;

and

but

such

xix.
xviii.,

vols,

and

had

him

cause

his usual

to resume,

providedat

death

\ Henry III.,25.

there

are

If it had

church

have

is not

comprises, exclusive

in this number

it could

contained

without

of the

only three

not

(sayshe)
have

not

such

females."

escaped

indications

its domestic

borders, about

heen

and

530

of

festive

figures;

86

THE

Little did the

regard should

affectionate

become

country, and
deeds, and

wife think, whilst

forth her

the interest

which

of

of her

illustrious husband's

unwearying affection,to ages

be born. For independentlyof

own

hereafter

ployed
em-

tribute

historical memento

an

blazon
her

ages

TAPESTRY.

this task, that her domestic

over

upon

BAYEUX

to

be attached

may

to this

tapestryas

pledge of feminine affection,a token of housewifely

rives
it deindustry,and a specimen of ancient stitchery,
a

historic value

more

wife, than

if it

later time.

For

it holds

as
tapestries

with

the

of

the

middle

wrought (we
the costume

ages

the

were

"

pun)

these
and

romances

ladies

their characters,
the action

historical

and

wrote

of the times in which

queror's
Con-

production of

with

good
authors

of the

the work

written histories

no

mean

as

or

not

in

event

place,butin that in which theywere at

the Empress
the time engaged ; and thus, had Matilda
this tapestry,it is more
than probable
worked
the armorial bearings
that she would have introduced
in her time becoming common,
and espewhich were
cially
of which in the tapestry
the Norman
leopards,
In her time too the
trace.
there is not the slightest
hair was
of
so
worn
long as to excite the censures
the church, whilst at the time of the Conquest the
celebrated took

Normans

almost
more

shaved
than

their heads

the want

of

and

this circumstance,

beards, is supposed

by Mr. Stothard* to have led to the surmise of the

all priests.
were
Anglo-Saxon spiesthat the Normans
is faithfully
This circumstance
depictedin the tapestry,
where
was

also the chief weapon

little used

after the
*

seen

Conquest.

Archseol.

vol. xix.

is

lance, which

These

peculia-

88

BAYEUX

THE

characteristics

are

forth

TAPESTRY.

of themselves

which

would

call

livelyinterest ; but their value is greatly

enhanced
of the most
by their connection with one
the main
subjectof the
important events in history,
whole design."
This
magnificentpiece of work is 227 feet in
length by 20 inches in width, is now usuallykept at
a

in

Town-hall

the

the

as

formerlythe theme of
dissertations
of antiquarian
some
whom
Montfaucon,
historians, amongst
perhaps,
ranks most
conspicuous.
precious relic.
long and learned

most

Still

request

not

was

Tour,"

says,

addressed

we

was

does

little local interest

so

Gurney, in 1814,
seeing it because
by the title of
"

It

is treasured

and

Rouen,

nearlyleavingBayeux without
did not
happen to ask for it

was

he

Toile

"

de

St. Jean,"
and

understood;
The

"

excite, that Mr.

it

priestsof

ourselves

for

and

Ducarel, in his

this cathedral

to

there

person

no

led them

to understand

knowing that

what

the

we

in

up

wanted

quiry
objectof our inthe Conqueror,

related to William
ways
to this day they call Duke
William.

any
whom

the French

During
demanded

for the

Revolution

it until

time

some

towns.
to

him

knew

Denon

covering the

was

guns

in concealing

overpast.

was

its value.

in Paris, and
M.

its surrender

priestsucceeded

that storm

Bonaparte better

of

purpose

however,
fortunately,

for

whom

able
sight of this remarkcumstance
nothing of it ; the cir-

knew
pieceof antiquity,
only of its being annually hung
their church

his

so

had

It

was

afterwards
the

by Bonaparte, but

at

charge
it was

displayed
some

of it

port
seamitted
com-

afterwards

restored

to

Bayeux.

It

invasion

of

much

value

attached

to,

taken

to exhibit

and

much

so

so

pains

says Dibdin,

Whether,"

"

that

country

our

per's
usur-

sightthe soldiers shouted, and, drawing

swords,
glittering

at such

"

this roll.

of the

at the time

was

threatened
was

89

TAPESTRY.

BAYEUX

THE

their

Clashed

confident

on

their

sounding

shields the din of war,

"

representationof the same

subjectby a second subjugation of our country is
a
point which has not been exactlydetailed to me !
lent
But the supposition
not be considered
very viomay
I inform
when
told by a casual
you that I was
French
visitor of the tapestry,that 'pour ccla, si
Bonaparte avail en le courage, le resultat auroit ete
taken
have
Matters, however,
comme
autrefois.''
of

second

"

rather

The

different turn."

lets down

which

coiled round

tapestryis

unrols

and

coloured

the buckets

on

given the tingeof

represent flesh

to

The

colours

and

The

stiff and

they were

the

faded, and

not

and

ladies

"
"

rich aud

course

very

titudinous.
mul-

varietyof
had

at

lours
co-

their

to

stiff and
main

needle.

depictthe horses
red, or yellow." The

them

blue, green,
of the

work

rude.*
is

narrow

At

the
alle-

figurewere, at this period,

worked ; and
chiejly
arabesque patterns Were now

attemptsto
but

caused

has

time

the

by

Matilda
has

female

different

in

left untouched

her

parts intended

little

bottom

rude:

it is the

outline, too, is of

top

well, and

Perhaps
disposalwhich
colour

are

that

like

cloth, to which

holland

somewhat

are

which

of any

white

brown

machine

It is worked

explains it.

worsteds

to

imitate the human

varied.

90

THE

goricalborder
the

whole

the end

turned

from

of
actors

of

the

of

tableau

of

each

and

is

arranged that

so

the beginning

the

in

most

the

each

letters.

The

quently
fre-

figures

of the next

of the

names

large

extending

tree

or

tapestry;

and

scene

the border

branch

different action

or

other, whilst above

wrought

are

division

the

and

one

TAPESTRY.

each

by

depth

each
at

and

is marked

event

or

BAYEUX

are

the subject

principal
subjects

picted
defables are
JEsop's"
of agriculture,
it,sometimes
on
instruments
sometimes
fanciful and
ders
grotesque figuresand bor; and
during the heat of the battle of Hastings,
when, as Montfaucon
est grand,"
le carnage
says,
the appropriate device
is a layer of
of the border
vary

of

; some

"

dead
"

men.

From

us,"
eleventh

the
was,

fury of
we

are

centuries

the

Normans,

told, in the

Lord

good

ver
deli-

ninth, tenth, and

petitionin the Litanies of all

nations.*
For long did England sorrow
their
under
vantageous
fury,"though in time the Conquest produced adresults to the kingdom at large. Whether
this Norman
in accordance
subjugation was
a

"

with
was

must

that

the will of the monarch

the
entirely
now

ever

Edward

Edward,

result of Duke
remain

(of which, however,

whether

William's

in doubt.

the Confessor

or

Harold

appointed
he

could

him

it

ambition,
asserted
his

cessor
suc-

produce
improbability
not

opposed the
of Edward
he felt,
thus ennobling a family of whom
and with such abundant
so
cause,
jealous.
Probably the old chronicler (Fabyan) has hit the
mark
when
This Edgarre (the rightful
he says,
proof);

to this must

be

"

Henry III., 554.

BAYEUX

THE

heir) was
stronge

specyallyfor Harolde
knyghtes and rychesse,he wanne
and

yonge,
of

91

TAPESTRY.

was

the

on
reygne." Be this as it may, however, Harold
the very day of Edward's
that was
interment, and
only the day subsequent to his death, was crowned
king in St. Paul's ; apparentlywith the concurrence

of all concerned, for he

And

his

short

kinglycareer
he

government

powerful and popular.

during the chief part of his
was

such

was

his popularity

to increase

as

gracious. Anone
he was
as
crowned, he began to fordoo euylllawes
and customes
the good
before vsed, and stablysshed
for the
whiche (suche)as wrere
lawes, and specyally
defence of holy churche, and punysshed the euyll
doers, to the fere and example of other."*
But
uncontrolled
duce
authorityearlybegan to proits wonted
He
results.
waxyd so prowd, and
for couetouse
wold
not
deuyde the prayes that he
took
had well deseruyd it,
to hys knyghtys, that
but
kepte it to hymself, that he therby lost the
fauour of many
"t This
of his knyghtys and people.
:

wise, and just,and

was

"

"

defection

in the mortal
issued

his

from

strugglewith

in Harold's

Proceed
The

we

duke

which

death.

tapestry.

which

conference

and

itself felt

made

the Norman

discomfiture

to the

first scene
is

party doubtless

the

needlewoman

between

person

has

picted
de-

who, from

his white

flowingbeard and regalcostume, is easily

and another,
sainted Edward,"
recognizedas the
who, from his subsequent embarkation, is supposed
to be Harold.
The
subject of the conference is,ot
Harolds
visit to Normandy
course,
onlyconjectured.
"

Fabyan's

Chron.

RastelPs

Chron.

92

THE

is well known

was

driven

BAYEUX

but

thither

pleasure; whether

whether,

by

supposed
Edward's

had

strongly to

reluctant

brother

who,

been

whether,

or

on

for

ward
Ed-

from

of the Confessor

tapestry is

the

as

obtained

indicate, he

his

of

cruise

his

to his visit to reclaim

consent

hostage

he

suppose,

ambassador

as

the intentions

behoof;
more

some

as

tempest when

he went

to communicate

in William's

TAPESTRY.

good conduct,

own

are
by Edward
; these
if they
even
points which now
defy investigation,
of sufficient importance to claim it. Harold
is
were
then
his journey attended
seen
on
by cavaliers on
of
horseback, surrounded
by dogs, and, an emblem
his own
his fist.
on
a hawk
high dignity,
One
great value of this tapestryis the scrupulous
which at
regard paid to points and circumstances
first view
but which, as
might appear insignificant,

sent

correlative

to

William

considerable

of

facts,are

it is known

importance. Thus,
that

and

of usages

confirmations

to

tiquarians
an-

formerlyhad two
proceedingon a

great personages

of equipment when
only modes
is here
the chase.
Harold
or
journey,that of war
fullyequipped for the chase, and consequentlythe
first glimpse obtained
of his person would
show that

his errand
was

was

of

mark

represented
Ponthieu

that it
one

to

In the
to

The

:
high nobility

with

alone

In former

of peace.

one

one

bear

times

Harold

no

hawk

on

the fist

inferior

and

person
Guy Earl

is
of

them.

this bird

was

esteemed

so

sacred

prohibitedin the ancient laws for any

a
as
part of his ransom.
give his hawk even
made
the Third
it was
felony
reignof Edward
was

steal

hawk

; and

to

take

its eggs,

even

in

THE

93

TAPESTRY.

BAYEUX

punishablewith imprisonment
for a year and a day,besides a fine at the
than this, by the laws
king'spleasure. Kay, more
of one
part of the island, and probablyof the whole,*
the priceof a hawk, or of a greyhound,was
the
once
with the price of a man
there was
; and
very same
when
the robbing of a hawk's
nest
a time
was
as
great a crime in the eye of the law, and as severely
of a Christian.
And
of
punished, as the murder
this high value they were
It is
long considered.
difficult,"
to fancy the extravagant
says Mr. Mills,t
in which
held
hawks
were
degree of estimation
As
during the chivalric ages.
symbols of high
carried
about
estate
by the
they were
constantly
of both sexes.
There
of
a
was
even
nobility
usage
bringing them into places appropriatedto public
viduals,
indiworship; a practicewhich, in the case of some
been recognisedas a right.
to have
appears
The
of the church of Auxerre
treasurer
enjoyedthe
distinction of assistingat divine service on
solemn
days with a falcon on his fist ; and the Lord of Sassai
held the privilege
the altar.
of perching his upon
dishonourable
to a man
Nothing was thought more
of rank than to give up his hawks
if he were
; and
taken
for
prisoner he would not resignthem even
liberty."
The
different positionsin which
the
hawk
is
needlework
are
placed in our
worthy of remark.
Here
its head
if
is raised, its wings fluttering,
as
Harold
eager and ready for flight
; afterwards, when
follows the Earl of Ponthieu
his captive,
as

person'sown

ground, was

"

"

Henry II., 515.

Hist.

Chiv.

94

not, of

course,

fiction the
its head

with

fluttering

and

breast

Could

itself there.

shelter

as

more

Harold's

on

its master's

towards

turned

expressed? Afterwards,
poetically
release, the bird is again depicted as

be

sympathy

ful
deprived of his bird, but by a beautibird is representeddepressed,and

nestle

if trying to

TAPESTRY.

BAYEUX

THE

to

"

elate."

soar

practicevery prevalentin these e* barbarous

too
times," as we somewhat
sweepingly term them,
of entering on
no
or
expedition of war
pastime
mated
without
imploring the protection of heaven, is intiis entering preby a church which Harold
viously
The

embarkation.

his

to

That

this observance

might degeneratein
may

be

very true
in song
in the

honoured
in

and

churches
the

habit

We

than

much,

them,

"

dross

it is to be

theless
neverwe

of

gold
having the

at

might
a

more

of the

some

that

so

brated
cele-

of old times,

of the custom

times,

be

the observance

the

prompted prayer
holy shelter of

very

of

some

feared, removed

at all

open

the

tended

breach

the abolition

heart-

under

might,

to be

form

"

clearingaway

have, it is
also

instances into mere

many
and the
hunting masses

moment
any
offered up
be

consecrated

roof, has

feared, to abolish

the

A habit in itself,and refrequentprayer.

garded
mable
even
merely as a habit, fraughtAvith inestigood.

of

Harold

and

his

ing
companions refreshthemselves
prior to their departure,pledging
each other, and doubtless
of
drinkingto the success
whatever
it might be.
The
their enterprise
horns
the subject
from which they are drinking have been
next

see

of critical remark.

We

find that

horns

were

used

96

THE

beneath

from

rises

hunters

drawing
which

water

up

had

warnings

to

just
of the

fall

throughout the
be

to

and

seen,

ground is broken
there, but
plentyroam
Our

this

the

days.

He

deserve

to

The

use

matter-of-fact

drinking horns

they were

in

ancestors,

who

in
saken
for-

that,

but

marvels

no

He

is obvious.

of the

cism
scepti-

schoolmaster

abroad"

therefore

did

very

is very

or

he

not

common

use

Saxon

among

gilded

of
to

seems

our

them

One

party

They
silver

frequently had

Harold's

ancient.

garnished with

magnificentlyornamented.
amongst

land,

some

"

deer

them.

see

of

happen.

sonally
say that he per-

reason

faith, and

usuallyembellished

were

the

too

have

region,

the time, contracted

wanted

wonders

to

on

enchanted

though he saw the forest and

The
presentedthemselves.
of these

There

husbandmen

goes

to

wont

and
precipitous,

and

for

stone

is then

many

author

visited

had, before

which

forest around.

whole

The

it.

animated

the

sound

to

having rain,

of

are

used

chase), they sprinklethe

purpose

fairies

repair in sultryweather, and

their horns
with
(those horns

been

the

the

Thither

there.

stone

used

are

TAPESTRY.

BAYEUX

those

be

very

in

and
use

richly

decorated.
The
as

the

revellers

are,

however,

their leader, Harold,

water

one,

noble

and

does

Master

The
this

Wace.

Matilda

Roman

of Harold

character

tapestryis

infinite credit

dispositionof
*

is

to his vessel.

displayedthroughout

obliged to dispatch,
alreadywading through

to

the

the

de Ron, "c,

magnificent

generous

queen,

as

who

by Taylor.

and
dis-

THE

dained
He

BAYEUX

97

TAPESTRY.

depreciatethe character
his expedition
by

to

of

fallen foe.

of

piety;
he is kindly
here, on his embarkation
at Bosham,
In crossing
carrying his dog through the water.
the sands of the river Cosno, which are
dangerous,
the
so
frequentlyto cause
very dangerous as most
commences

destruction
whole

of those

concern

assist the

to

inferior natural

of
passage
do not enable

powers

with

self;
himas
danger so successfully
his character
for undaunted
bravery is such,
William
condescends
ance
to supplicatehis assistto

that

in

compete

then

feud

another

the

invests him

lead his

number

characters

assailed

the

on

him

not

hands

own

and
of

in

(as seen

disdained

entreaties

not

with

personallyto
the

of

corpses
a

even

greater

side, told in bloody

Englishmonarch's
had

self
him-

his

the

this field,and

that Harold

he bear

all, he

of

scene

the encounter,

troops to
on

last

and

of honour

repelled all

brothers

15,000 Normans

with

the emblems

with

all submission, he
his

nobly does

so

himself

between

Norman

proud

tapestry); and,

which

issue

at

and

nobleman,

that

the

attempt their transit, his

to be

seems

others, whose
them

who

act

an

quailedin

the

last

great encounter.
-.

Unpropitiouswinds

from
the
whose

their intended

people

of

course.

Ponthieu

illfortune

drive him

threw

and

his attendants

Many historians accuse

of making prisoners all

them

upon

their coast, and

of

treatingthem with great barbarity,in order to

extort
the largerransom.
Be this as it may, Harold
has scarcely
shore ere
set his foot on
he is forcibly
capturedby the vassals of Guy of Ponthieu, who is
there

on

horseback

to witness

the

proceeding.
F

The

08

THE

tapestry goes

on

of the captured

progress

their captors to Belrem

when

conference

TAPESTRY.

picture the

to

troop and
and

BAYEUX

there

Beurain,

or

between

the

and

earl

the fair embroideresses

have
prisoner,where
given a delicate and expressive feature by depicting
the conquering noble with his sword
elevated, and
the princelycaptive,
his sword, but
wearing indeed
with the point depressed.
his

It is said

often

been

the

was

that
in

of his

cause

other; and

his

great prize in
if he

that

gain a hundred
such a prisoneras

more

or

his

his

for

person,

privilyto
speak to no

would
he
go

could

it, for he
pay
The

ransome."

Count

he

deliver

hundred

and

livres

would

fisherman

the

put

him

with

only twenty

would

had

went

how

him

by

then

and

terms,

Count

give

should
him

He

"

if he would

way,

would

Harold's

Pontif, and

told the

he

knew

capture.

of

who

of Ponthieu,

and

England

the Count

Guy,

fisherman

livres

agreed
showed

to

him

Harold.

Hearing

is anxious

on

possessionof

his

ambassadors

to

tapestry

all and

every
He

person.
Guy, who

giving

as

holding the

William
captivity,

of Harold's

horses

is

is somewhat

to

man
Norobtain

consequently sends
represented on the
The

remarkable

person
;

he is

formerly much sought

of great folks, and they were
quently
freafter in the houses
sent as presents from
one
ther.
potentate to anoin
pettedand indulged somewhat
They were
fool or jester. The
modern
of the more
the way

bearded

dwarf.

custom

is very

Dwarfs

account

audience.

them

the

old.

them, that they often

were

The
used

Romans

were

so

artificial methods

fond

of

to pre-

BAYEUX

THE

99

TAPESTRY.

growth of children designedfor dwarfs, by

enclosingthem in boxes, or by the use of tight
perors
embandages. The sister of one of the Roman
had
who
dwarf
a
was
only two feet and a
hand
breadth in height. Many relations concerning
vent

the

dwarfs

we

those

of

look upon

may

giants. They
in

like

are,

where

romances,

than

less fabulous

not

as

the

their

pensable
latter, indis-

feats, far from

being dwarfish, are

gigantic,
absolutely
though these

diminutive

seldom

heroes

post than
"

that of humble

Fill'd with

these

Before

knight the

Kind

occupy

the

views

greetingsbears
prays

The

knight delays

attendant.

th' attendant
dwarf
as

to adorn

not."

him

That

Behind
That

The

from

niouthe

came

waited

lasie

his Anee."

wearied

Of

needments

dwarf

worked

with

bearing of

at his backe.

in

the

full lowe,
"

Sin

dwarfe

seem'd, in being

Or

farden,

eare.

dwarffe

farre away

her

lere ;

to

eare
a

on

starke,

and

like fire

goggling eyen

Before

feast.

her

All foule of lirnbe and

Two

'she sends

bends;
respectful
lady'sguest,

hugye giaunt stifle

"A

dwarf

to his

his presence

And

sible
osten-

more

any

did

"

lag

last,

ever

her

Caui.ine.

bag

Faeuie

Queene.

tapestry has

the

to have
placed above him, and seems
a dependant of Odo,
Bishop of Bayeux, William
Conqueror'sbrother*

Tvrold

lvo.
Archaeologia,

xix.
F

name

been
the

100

BAYEUX

THE

The

first

to

the surrender

is intimidated,

as

well

at his

The
with

other

this

William

circumstances

guard

that

broke
so

and

affected

the

was

of

"

ones

It

mind

under
"

the

tacked

were

Harold

that

the

William

reasonable

Anglo-Saxon
his

is said

that

of

pious

the

that

the former.

for

throne

all

through.

guest,

conditions

which

enforced

they were

nobleman

daughter

English
one

his

and

and
of

one

the

which

agreements

the

marry

agreement,

should

plea

Guy

reception of Harold

courteous

between

the latter should

to

Count

prisoner.

palace.
portraiture of a female in a sort of porch,
diction
clergyman in the act of pronouncing a beneher, is supposed to have reference to the
on

engagement

Many

troops

some

the

and

William's

as

of the

of

Duke

object is attained; every

proceedingsis depictedon the canvas,

of these

stage

the head

proceeds at

more

in the end

forwarded, and

are

himself

compel

unsuccessful

negociations are

urgent messages
William

TAPESTRY.

sertion
de-

young

to
princess,*that her heart broke on her passage
Spain, whither they were
conveying her to a forced
with a Spanish prince. As
union
this young
lady
was

mere

Normandy,

child
the

at

the

time

of Harold's

visit to

story, though exceedingly pretty, is

tirely
apocryphal. Ducarel
gives an enand
different explanation of the scene,
says
that it is probably meant
to represent a secretary or
officer coming
William's
to
duchess, to acquaint
her with the agreement
relative to her
just made
daughter.

probably

"

Her

very

knees

were

like horn

with

constant

kneeling."

BAYEUX

THE

Duke

with

of

Earl

The

to his

service, arrives

Din

in

St.

ant, of which

Parties

the

keys are
Normans
come
peaceably
having previously,with his
Harold

with

suit of

Michel,

and

William

at

his

effectual

alluded),and

are

flying

seen

followers

attack

up, and

Bayeux

the

William

hands,

own

the

passes

delivered
to

war

attachingHarold

before

have

we

moment

he receives

indeed

Brittany.

Rennes.

this

the latter

Mount

at

(to which

arrives at Dol
towards

and

whom

party, from

river Cosno

is at

Bretagne

William,

101

TAPESTRY.

invested

armour.

Harold

shortlyreturns to England, but not before

had
taken
a
place.
very important circumstance
William
and Harold
had
mutually entered into an
agreement by which the latter had pledged himself
ward's
Edto William,
to acknowledge him
to be true
as
the English throne, and
to do
successor
on
obtain
for him
the peaceable
to
all in his power
the
possessionof that throne ; and as Harold
was,
in Engexcepted,the first man
reigning monarch
land,
of no
this promised support was
moment.
trifling
William

resolved

therefore

to have

repeatedwith all possible solemnity.

Odo, the Bishop of Bayeux, assisted
Harold
matter.
see
Accordingly we
between

each, uttering the

hand

on

which

William,

auditor

sent

seated

for he well

fearful than

many
then

covered

altars

two

Harold

for all the

of them
covered

his

on

knew
was

at

the oath

His
him

brother
in

this

standing
with cloth of gold, a
solemn
of
adjuration,
throne, is a delighted

that
all

the

aware

oath
of.

was

For

more
"

liam
Wil-

holy bodies thither, and put so

together as to fill a whole chest, and
neither
them
with a pall; but Harold

102

them,

saw

told

or

the

phylactery,

Harold
and

the

flesh

his

upon

oath,

his

of
the

and
for

Edward,

he

holy
had

grant

saints,

and

him

up

to

had

took

and

showed
and

Harold

was

his

made
the

upon

sorely

pall
what
alarmed

cried

kissed

the

duke

led

the

had

near

covered
relics

holy
at

God

Many

stand

that

the

the

Gospels,

the

feet,

in

all

him

help

had

him

do
after

wit,

other).

Harold

upon

chest

so

deliver

to

to

(meaning

any

promised

and

and

live,

when

and

chest,
the

he

and
risen

the
off

and

sworn,

it!'

of

trembled

and

wife,

was

When

hand

the

might

all

select.

thereunto

should

idea

none

God

his

nought

over

swore,

and

there

relics

he
to

to

he

it,

for

and

could

Ele

duke

if

he

but

according

power,

death

the

it

upon

take

to

to

about

hand

there,

being

that

best

quivered

England

up

their

him

to

his

placed

TAPESTRY.

of

knew

nor

shown

was

BAYEUX

THE

he

sight."

it

it,
had

104

THE

borne

in

intimated

in

BAYEUX

TAPESTRY.

splendid processionto the magnificent

house which he had
minster
builded
(i.e. rebuilded),WestAbbey ; over which, in the sky, a hand is
to point as if in benediction.
It is well known
seen
that the Abbey was
barely finished at the time of
the pious monarch's
is
death, and this circumstance

are

intelligible
though homely manner
in the
occupied in placing a
tapestry by a person
weathercock
the summit
of the building.
on
The

an

first

pageant

its walls

within

seen

funeral

the

was

beautifully
the high
it.
Before
and jewelry
altar, in a splendid shrine, where gems
flashed back the gleams of innumerable
torches, and
array of the monarch
rebuilt and
so
amply endowed

amid

the

solemn

echoed

chant

vaulted

by the subdued
emphatic benediction

wail

of

of

the

had

the

been,

called

the
so

around

it

who

were

laid

Sainted

were

resorted

the

down
thither

the

friend

whose

who

of him

whose

by

or

mourners,

poor

spot that

rere"
Mise-

'"

tomb

the
knees

for prayer

of

and

he
was
sidered
con-

was

very

the

stones

the

grims
pil-

the very

lected,
carefully
swept and colexported to the continent, and bought by
at a high price.
devotees
in the tapestrythe crown
next
We
see
offeredto
Harold
to be
peculiarlyremarked,
(a circumstance
thus
since
depicted by his opponent's wife), and
Harold
shows
then
right royally receiving the
of those around.
homage and gratulations
forbodes
the next
But
a
scene
change of fortune :
Isti miraist
stella," is the explanationwrought
dust

"

of whose

worn

whose

aisles,interrupted

remains

Edward

hallowed

so

of the monks,

through the

but

who

shrine

was

THE

it.

over

which

was

For

there

also in other

appeared
onelie

not

seene

of the

parts

105

TAPESTRY.

BAYEUX

"

biasing stare,
England, but

here

in

continued

world, and

the

biasingstarre might be
and
a
hangingpredictionof mischeefe imminent
but as
Harold's
head ; for they never
over
appeare
prognosticatsof afterclaps."
Popular belief has generallyinvested these illThese
omened
bodies
with
peculiarterrors.
with bloudie
dreadful to be seene,
biasingstarres
haires,and all over rough and shagged at the top."
times
SomeThey vary, however, in their appearance.
like a sword, without
theyare pale,and glitter
of

space

seven

This

daies.

"

"

rays or beams.
to have hung over

Such

any

the

was

Jerusalem

for

its destruction,
with

awe

of

foretold

Pompey,

the

of Nero.
considered
and
birth

the

murder

war

of

of

Charles

of

Martel, and

of

sembling
rehood
man-

Salamis."

Cassar

Claudius, and

Alexander,

comet

whole

"f

between

Though usually,
theywere
as
portentsof evil omen

accession
of

year before
of all who beheld it
a

near

the minds
filling
and
dread.
superstitious
a horn
appeared when the
Greece
fought the battaile

Comets

is said

which

one

the

not
:

and

tyranny

invariably,

for the birth

Mithridates,
accession

the

the
of

of the Tatar
Charlemagne, and the commencement
A very
all notified by blazing stars.
empire,were
consecutive
brilliant one
which
appeared for seven
after the death
of Julius Csesar was
nights soon

supposed to be conveyingthe soul of the murdered

dictator to Olympus. An
author who wrote
one
on
which
appeared in the reign of Elizabeth was most
anxious, as in duty bound, to apply the phenomenon
f

106

THE

puzzle. To have
might have been misprisionof
only precedent for saying anything

to the

here

But
queen.
foretold calamities
treason

and

which

but

by

the

of

good

comet

occurred
it

no

so

after

death

the

author

the

together

posthume, the

they signifiecorruptionof
signesof earthquake,of warres,
great dearth

of

and
u

beast."

There

with

the

So

world

with

the

They are
chaunging of kyng-

To

herdsmen

To

sailors storms, to cities civil treasons."

kingdoms

inevitable

Comet

only mighty monarchs, but

considered
the sign as
have
guard on all their
antiquary,having
himself

diary never
comet

some

among

in the

actions.
been

more

sky.
"

dismay

and

the humblest
sent

Thus

1665

if God

to

Sir

himself

crowned

and

horror

and

in its

to have

all

Nature

in-

Not

course.

privateindividuals

them,

danger of
makes
bell-ropes,

Aikin.

war

crosses,

many

in

in

to exercise

"

hapless seasons,

comets

carried

losses ;

rot, to plowmen

of 1618

age

famine, plague,and

princesdeath,

on

death

blazing star

all estates

writer

says,

ayre.

To

The

Another

To

to

im-

an

yea, a common
poet of the same

previous conjecture. "As

*

into

being

corne,

long bloody hair

Threatens

But

of

other

and

might thereby be purged,

"

domes,

of

void

fatness

gross

obscured."

be

to the end

whales

was

apotheosis.*

more

excrements

as

celestial air

should

sun

be

not

that

her
made

were

is of

ocean

great thievingfishes,and

gathered

"

regions might

than

monsters

writes,

Csesar;"

Elizabeth

ripeor willingfor

one

that

from

Julius

of

either

etherial

man

drawn

be

to

was

"

that at this time

means

lest the

the

was

happened

Cometsv
the

TAPESTRY.

BAYEUX

set

seem
a

to

double

Symonds D'Ewes, the learned

an
untimely end by entangling
a

in

memorandum

in his

bell-ringingwhen

private

there

is

THE

tended

by
esteeming
sacred

comets

the

of

churches

princes;

earth

upon

not

eminent

illustrious and

for such

enough

of

knells

the

ring

to

bells

107

TAPESTRY.

BAYEUX

formances.
per-

'

No

wonder

regarded

that

the

with

fearful

own

dominions

in Harold's

comet

days

was

misgivings.
It did not, however, dismay him.
Duke
William,
be
to
as
a
supposed, did not tamely submit
may
sider,
usurpation of what he considered, or affected to conhis
see

an

envoy,

makes

him

probably from
acquainted with.

seemingly an earnest
evidentlyresults in
a

fleet ; of which

stages and
timber

in

its

heroes

of

and

and

knight
the

which

one,

the various

the

from

and

conquest.

he

have

could

made

autumn

not,

his

from

with

any

in

fitting-upthe

there was
the forces,
and
collecting
the land, no
good serjeant,archer,

of stout
did

duke

England

honours

to

prepared of

heart, and
not

seven

to

summon

promising
the

of

rents

barons."
hundred

to

Thus

and

daring attempt.

spent

were

sistance
as-

"

in

peasant

council,

preparation of

immediate

indeed,

success,

summer

fleet

expeditionreceived unusual
his own
tributary chiefs, and
allies, who
joined his standard,

whom,

chance

England,

in this

other

without

holds

we

fellingof the
woods
native
to the launching of the
and fully
equipped in arms, provisions,

from

various

He

tapestry delineates

for invasion

William

in

party

animated

circumstances,

vessels, stored
and

the

his

and
the

which

circumstance

"

age
"0

the
was

ships,but

no
nor

for battle, that

with

him

to

and

vavassors,
an

armament

the

one

which

108

THE

bore

William,

BAYEUX

the

hero

proudly pre-eminent
of his affectionate
of

canvas

sent

It is

than

others

as

the

mast,

which

the banner

Pope

the

represented in

the

bears

the

by

expedition, shone
It was
the gift
rest.

the

the

queen.

William

to

of

over

larger size
by a cross,

surmounted

TAPESTRY.

was

his

testimony of

also a
blessing and approbation. On this mast
beacon-lightnightlyblazed as a point d'approcheof
the

remainder

figureof

the

of

On

fleet.

the

poop

the

was

for the conqueror's

boy (supposed to be meant
youngest son),gilded,and looking earnestly
a

towards

England, holding in one hand a banner, in

the other
an
ivory horn, on which he is sounding a
joyfulreveillee.
But
long the fleet waited at St. Valeri for a fair
wind, until the barons
Then

they prayed

shrine

all

plain ; and
they might

much

so

it ; and

weather

and

and

is

helde

The

prepared.

William

sits

by Father
copied by Ducarel
from

the

and
Greek

shape
been

has

remarks

half-moon,

in

carpet

relics

holy

the relics

that

They

sea.

over

the

buried

were

forth

they had good

Willyam thanked

Than

shortlyafter shyptowarde
his course
Englande."
of the fleet in England a banquet

the arrival

On

"

the

day

Saynt Valary, and

and

pynge,

that

from

on

pass

that

fair wind.

it

set

to

money,

dispirited.
bring out the

to

praying

allowed

be

and

weary

convent

and

came

beneath

God

the

St. Valeri

of

offered

became

was

g.

the

toke

of

was

by

which

at

curious

some

which

have

been

It is in form

others.

called
It

of

theme

Montfaucon,
and

table

the

the

calculated

Romans

only for

of

sigma,
seven

persons
on

and

whom
A

noise
when

they saw

that

land.

they should not

watching the arrival of

the

He

knights follow.

their
saw

the

throw

the

ships.

men

fort, and
land

and
to

King

set

out

and

Harold

he

his

tapestry speeding to

is

expectation of
stationed

had

lately dispersedfrom

King, occupied by
been

able

against
ere

him

his army

the

reinstate

to

(says
was

the

his

him

in

the

But

southern

collected."

"

William

chronicle)
Thus

the

rival,
ar-

coast, had

of

it; and
Saxon

the

fleet

and
provisions,
Norwegian invasion, had
want

he

adversary'searlier

the

on

straightway

master.

idle.

not

sword

risingearly;
and
by day to

see

we

his beloved

Harold

Meanwhile

And

lord."

all

Forthwith

news.

resting late and

journeyed on by night

Harold

he

tell the

go

the

beheld

girt his

would

of

them

saw

he

he

and

he

fort out
enclose

as

his way,

on

which, in

He

troops.

and

And

saying

and

and

it. He

armour.

with

carpenters

up

around

He

ships,and

for the

build

troubled

his lance,

thus

seek

and

the

tarried

fleet.

the

from

materials

fosse

spiritwas

great

people

them

the

shields

took

of

the

saw

dig

the

this his

He

the

saw

the host

and

axes,

him,

forward

come

and

see

object

behind

posted himself

He

that

archers

their

that

and

come,

well knew

He

great fleet arrive.

seize the

the

saw

the

were

hill,so
there

eight,

the Normans
to

was

invited

once

emperor

laugh against the person for

there would
be no
place.
knight in that country (Britain)heard the
and
by the peasants and villains
cry made
to raise

purpose

"

facetious

.109

TAPESTRY.

BAYEUX

THE

the
not
came

unawares

enemy

found

110

obtaining a footing

in

hinderance

oppositionnor

nor

TAPESTRY.

BAYEUX

THE

in the island.
at such

Taken
a

brave

could

The

tapestry depicts,as

expected, the
The

"

and

do

vowed

psalms

paternosters and

"

whereof
"

Then

mounted
"

and

Loud

that

is

swift horse, before

far resounded
of

said

and

mini,
Do-

Spiritus

Sancte

belonging

as

battle

sang

shocks

clubs, and

Taillefer, who
a

kyriels;

Salve

season,

mighty.

and

the

the

to

Saturday.

was

fame

on

orisons

mercy,

many

yet

the

and

the

some

to

behold

now,

his

for

Populi, and

suited

being
day, which

And

and

host.

the

throughout

up

fasts, penances,

masses

Salus

Parens,
that

be

may

as

misereres, litanies and

and

God,

on

others

well

night,and besought
prayed to him in their

and

fitted

were

and

offered

cried

sary.
adver-

formidable

all

watched

God,

upon

chapels, which
said

to

battle.

priestshad

called

They
they
they

repelhis

man

all that

did

Harold

disadvantage,

the

gathered

was

right well, rode,

duke.

the

the

lances, the

bray of
mighty

horns,

the

of

strokes

One
while
quick clashing of swords.
while
another
Englishmen rushed
they fell
on,

the

back;

the

while

one

and

onwards,

the

again

at

English fall, the

the

taunts

what

defies

and
the

other

English bark,
speech.
"

Some

wax

the

men

from

over

other

times

retreated.

Normans

because

they

strong, others

the

the

side

knoweth

Normans

understand

weak

When

Each

shout.

other, yet neither

saith; and

charged

sea

say
not

brave

the
their

exult,

112

BAYEUX

THE

land/' that is, a detail

hero

slaughtered
known

have

to

it refers,

deeds

of

recorded

his

derring do."
that the spirit
note

countrymen

that
with the

readers

our

"

Foremost

And
if

Rushed
Borne

otherwise

raised

Of
Of

Oliver,brave

Harold's

And

host

thus

he

long

Yet

if reward

Grant

By

him

Minstrel

'

That

Thomas

my

the

now

no

throng)

old,

descried,

back

me

brave

urged
not

you,

how

or

well ;

claim,
to name;

mine

first shall strike yon

to tell

I dare
be

Taillefer,
his prayer

lays may

boon

more,

flood,

crimson

hill's steep side:

I've served

How

plain,

field.

soon

the

to William

'

'

of

blood, in

Sire, it fits

Great

strong,

to yield,
fly,unknown
knight and vassal bold,

turned

and

"

to

Clusteringon
Then

Taillefer

Charlemagne,

Roncesvalles'

Dyed

were,

warlike

peer

hallowed

"Whose

air,

o'er the

of

and

many

the

swift

the

by

Untaught

lauce,

heart-inspiring
song

the

Roland

And

'

with

minstrel

courser

echoed

(Loud

"

of France,
and

the

blow

perjuredfoe.'

Amyot, Esq., F.S.A.

"

strel
minto

sible
pos-

pleased

Taillefer.

of

gailybounded

And

than

of his deeds

account

hauberk

his

on

He

be

forth the

the

It is not

can

in
glittering
warrior-knighthe

by

it is

little contented

alone.

helmet

As

occasion

sung

voice

in the bands

with

Arm'd

was

by

Onset

The

this

On

however,

followinganimated

to

event

magical inspirationto

"

was,

the

after

ages

of

note

Taillefer, who
lead

for

the

is well

which

Koncesvalles,

of

of

achievements

of the

been,

which

TAPESTRY.

Archseol.,vol.xix.

:*

"

'Thy
*

'*

BAYEUX

suit is

gained/ the

gallantminstrel

Our

Enough,'

he

Foremost

to

cried,

As

with

came

Like

urchin's

And

twice

Saxons

Like

meteor

From

More

summer

wonders

His
He

snorts

down

Crushed
Thus

seems

Enchantment

danciug,

fastens

eye-ballsflashing,
his head,

rears

fury gnashing ;
and upward springs
"

on

the foe,

his

writhing victim flings,

by the wily minstrel's blow.
it to the hostile band

all,and fairyland.

would

I leave

The

Saxon

ranks,
rushed

the rest unsung:

to madness

with

Headlong
Hurling javelin,
mace,
shelter

in death.

courser

"

for breath,

signalmade,

on

foams

he

glancing:

gasped

ravenous

he

flew,

sky

Fain

Sought

threw,

evening dew,

"

in

Plunging
And

he

swift

groaned

taught

"

heart.

bearer's

erect, and

teeth

arm,

dart

the

yet!

mane

well

The

charm

or

minstrel's

amazement

Saxon

With

No

skill

thrice the weapon

o'er

while

Another

"

"

sparklingsunbeams

downward

And

hand,

the wondrous

saw

And

its unerringflight.

thrice aloft his sword

Now

might

his command,

in their standard

'Midst

"

flung,

directed

inspiredthe

The

Fixed

"

he

doubting whether
thus

sung,

ball,or juggler'swand,

again, at

Had

he

into his

lance

Whirled
While

speed,

responsiverung,

well

the

to bleed.'

deeds

shouts

With
Back

joy

in air his lance

high

replied,
guide.'

our

vanquish or

Norman

While

Duke

be
'

still of Roland's

And

113

TAPESTRY.

THE

from

the

stung,

frenzied
and

"

start,

dart;

iron shower

Taillefer in that sad hour;

114

BAYEUX

THE

still he

Yet

'Strike
For

field,

to the

on

the

"

strike home

"

William's

"

minstrel

dwelt

his

and

on

"

in Roland's

"

Harold's

glory

yield

Saxons

name

"

"

shame.'

stretched

piercedwith wounds,

The

have

come

quick

Then

We

beckoned

Frenchman,

'

TAPESTRY.

by side,

side

died."

courser

the details of the

tapestry with

Yet
tedious.
deem
prolixitywhich some
may
surely the subject is worthy of it ; for, in the first
in the
place,it is the oldest piece of needlework
world
the only piece of that era now
existing*
; and
this circumstance
in itself suggests many
interesting
could
ideas, on
which, did our
permit, we
space
readily dilate.
Ages have rolled away ; and the
have mouldered
that wrought this work
fair hands
into
dust ; and
affectionate
the gentle and
away
has
spiritthat suggested this elaborate memorial
which it adorned
long since passed from the scene
and dignified. In no
long period after the battle
thus commemorated,
an
abbey, consecrated to praise
and prayer, raised its statelywalls on
the very field
that was
ploughed with the strife and watered with
a

"

the blood
rang
the

of fierce and

with

the sounds

clangour

made

of

musical

evil

of

wrath, of strife,of warfare,

the

armour,

with

air that erst

The

men.

the

din

chorus

of
of

praise, or

gently stirred by the breath of prayer or

penitence;and where contending hosts
in proud array, or the phalanx
to the

solemn

procession, or

wending
But

aged

battle,

on

the
as

his errand
grey

they

and

beheld

seen

were

the

holy brother
charity.

time-honoured

generation

was

sigh of
shalled
mar-

were

rushed

the stoled

monks

petuous
imin

peacefully

the
of

now

was

war,

walls
after

waxed

generation

BAYEUX

THE

115

TAPESTRY.

consigned to dust beneath their shelter. Time and

A
scattered
few
change have done their worst.
ruins, seen
dimly through the mist of years, are all
the
that remain
to point to the inquiringwanderer
the results
site of the stupendous struggleof which
felt even
after the expirationof eight hundred
are
years.
These

worthy
who

made

been

mention

been

Matilda

So

by
stern

very
durst

spirits

fame

would

though they
little

make

no

or

ment
lastingmonutapestry by woman's

this

skill.
the

terms

in

still it is

for the

it not

them

their

with

altogetheras

were

of the turbulent

for historians

"

to

industryand

"

that many
earth
echo

"

of them
raised

high

trite reflections

and
literally

had

never

deemed

of remark,

then

have

be

may

Queen's
both

character

English
her

was

and

is

pictured

Norman

husband,

in

historians.

hot, that

and

no

anything against his will. He had

earls in his custody who
acted
against his will.
and abbots
Bishops he hurled from their bishoprics,
from their abbacies, and thanes
into prison;" yet it
is recorded
that even
his iron temper was
not
proof
the piety,
against the good sense, the gentleness,
man

and

the

but
to

once

do

affection
;

and

palliateand

from

of

wife who

this

on

occasion

there

was

much

so

her fault,proceeding as

excuse

him

offended

never

it did

yearnings towards her eldest son

when
he was
in disgraceand sorrow,
that the usually
unyieldingKing forgave her immediately. She
lived
the

mother's

beloved, and
time

of

Malmsbury,

her

she

died

death, the

"refrained

from

lamented

King,
every

says

and,
William

from
of

gratification."

116

BAYEUX

THE

Independently
historical

authority,
and

in

of

in

she

as

estimation

the

as

impossible
and

of
the

in

coloured

study

glided

away,

of

these

nor

plates
left

us

weary

are

by
the

have
the

from

our

His-

inferior
the

task.

in

Society

advantage
In

original.

days

alone,
of

gravings
en-

Anciennes

(published
these

rude

"

outline

but

is

it

becoming

The

executed,

accurately

high

extant

without

"Tapisseries

because

its

closely,

task.

Stothart's

Antiquarians),
being

the

jected,
pro-

circumstances,

appears,

the

and

needlework

of

an

excellent

as

rank,

in

as

being

lady

memorial

first

at

tapestry
as

these

this

beautifully
Mr.

to

by

piece
all

this

interest

noble

was

in

it

are

interest
of

it

as

interested

toriees"

its

study

to

of

and

of

skilless''

deeply

value

oldest

independently

"

of

the

executed,

part

character

TAPESTRY

and

weeks

117

CHAPTER
NEEDLEWORK

THE

OF
AND

As

ladies

To

fingerthe

c"

X.
TIMES

ROMANCE

OF

CHIVALRY.

wont

fine needle

and

nyse

thread."
Faerie

Though,
and

during bygone

noble

decoration

Marvellous
have

fingersof the
sedulouslyemployed in
ages,

embellishment

and

its ministers,

must

often

were

the

the

been

fair
the

of the church, and

they were

indeed

Queene.

by no means
in quantity,as
stitcherydone

of

universallyso.
well as
quality,
in

those

trious
indus"

and nyse thread

fine needle
days,for the
not
were
merely visible but conspicuous in every
not proof
department of life. If, happily,there were
to the contrary,we
might be apt to imagine that
the women
into the world only
of those days came
That
distaff, broider, card, and sew."
to ply the
"

"

this

before

the

not

was
we

case

to those

turn

we,

embroideries

the subjectof
especially
from
*

Historical

recent

Memoirs

however, well know

which

are

but

more

this

scribe,
chapter,we will trandetail of
work,* an interesting

of Queens

of

England.

"

H.

Lawrance.

118

NEEDLEWORK

household

the

While

"

of

lute),to

and

play on

to

delicate

and

harp

various

execute

in

of
were

lost

never
"

household

extensive

an

Few

readers

middle

are

aware

the

form
In

ages.

the

articles of every

the year,

we

fourteenth
the

and

mistress

fulfil

expected to

know

can

of the

various

good

housewife

qualifications
during
'

present day, when

kind

and, with

country town,

literary
pursuits,

which

was

to

sight of.

to
requisite

the

costly

instances

some

centuries, the functions

(a species

the most

in addition
to
more
were,
pourtraye,'
the
accomplishments of the

fifteenth

of

centuries.

citole

of

kinds
and

needle-work,

the mistress

fifteenth

and
the

OF

TIMES

of
responsibilities

the fourteenth

familyin

THE

OF

hold
housein

obtainable

are

any

exceptions,throughout

few

little of

the

judgment,

the

which
were
forethought,and the nice calculation
of a household
required in the mistress
consisting
and
more
probably of three -score, or even
persons,
had to provide almost a twelvemonth's
who, in the autumn,
There

stores.
to

strew

the

rooms,

(at this period

(onlysold
the

wheat

used

salted

down

malt, the oatmeal, the

for

substitute

large quantities),and,
and
the barley for the

in

provided and
meat

the

the

the fire-wood, the rushes

was

The

stored

away.
for the winter's
at Martinmas

sugar),

the

if in the

country,

bread

all to be

and

"

greater part

provisionwas
;

the

honey
salt

of the

killed and

mistress

had

to

stock
winter
for the
and
provide the necessary
spring consumption, together with the stockfish
Then
and
at
the
baconed
herrings'for Lent.
afforded
for
annual
fair, the only opportunitywas
purchasing those more
especialarticles of house'

120

and

describing1 the warfare

to

and

did

Thus

thrones.

the

look

which

form

would

be

but

the

as

subjectof
indeed

meagre

day

every

the

"

novel

life which

look for in the

our

to

as

should

we

kingdoms

only to professed
to

productions as those
chapter,our evidence
the

describes

now

of

exists in their pages

such

of

existence

OF

welfare

we

historians,though enough
evidence

TIMES

THE

OF

NEEDLEWORK

details

minuter

minutiae

of

it ridiculous

to

those

think

the

historian,
or
politician
of the days of chivalrypresent us
the romances
so
with descriptions
dant
redunwhich, if they be somewhat
still correct
in ornament,
in groundwork ;
are
have in, it
and the details gathered from
romances
be, unimportant circumstances, that accidental
may
from
corroboration
historywhich fairlystamps their
in more
faithfulness
it
: and
important particulars
of
has been shown, says the author
Godefridus,' by

writings of

'

learned

men,

the

in

memoirs

of

the

French

demy
Aca-

that they may

be used in common
Inscriptions,
and as
with history,
of equal authoritywhenever
an
inquiry takes place respecting the sjjirit
and
manners
posed.
comof the ages in which
they were
But we
are
writinga dissertation on romance
of describing the
instead
clodes ryche," to which
must
we
now
proceed.
in the use
So highly was
of the needle
a
facility
ould ancient
times," that a wandering
prized in these
is not merely tolerated
damsel
but cherished
in a family in which
she is a perfectstranger, solely
of

"

"

from

her

After
rescued
there

"

skill in this much-loved

being exposed
by Syr Kadore,

in

an

art.

open

remained

boat, Emare
in his

was

castle, and

ROMANCE

"

She

tawghte

All

hem

her

She

to

they

says of her
"

121

CHIVALRY.

and

sewe

marke

of sylkyn iverke,

maner

Of

Syr Kadorc

AND

ys the

faype."*

ful

wer

"

konnyngest womraon,
Crystendom,

I trowe, that be yn
that

Of werk

And

again describing her

u

She

y have
"

sylkewerk

sewed

sene."

hour."

yn

accomplishedand luckless lady had,

princessthough she was, every advantage of early
in
tuition
sent
in this notable
art, having been
not
her childhood
who
to a lady called Abro,
only
(virtueand good
taughther curtesyeand thewe
manners),but also
This

same

"

"

"

Golde

Amonge

old

evidentlyan
we

the

arrangement

needle-work, that the

sewing

county),the

whereas, in
has

routine

THREE-PENCE

WEEK

time

been,
PENT

plishments
accom-

would

expense

our

of the

"

and

be

reding

and

soing,

FOR

EXTRA

NERS."
MAN-

expensive and troublesome

acquirement
art of sewing in
of gewas
golde and silke
neral
have
been the apmust
adoption: gorgeous
pearance
of the damsels
and knightsof those days,
"

"

"

"

when

for

country (or

This
the

of

specialmention

the

extra

however,

where,

school:

taught, and
the

sewe,

moo:"

maydenes

dame's

infer from

may

sylkefor to

and

their
"

Clothys wyth

Emare.

bestes "

All abowte

for

Bete

byrdes wer
pryde."

"

lete,\

embroidered.
inlayed,
G

122

NEEDLEWORK

OF

By that lightAmadis
beautiful
appeared more
"

could

She

be.

with

thicklywrought

that it

beautiful

so

it
"

only with

of the fleet, and

to

world

she

value."
""'

heard

all that had

had

of the

vered
co-

coming

befallen, she made

of all persons
of

because

to see,

before

to appear

such

wealth

put

on

her

indeed

as

in the

her

great

she

She

lady of

was

with

skill, and

marvellous

pearls and

like

adorned

was

with

of gold, wrought
with

she

was

everywhere spread abroad.

she

which

robe

silk,

garland."*

was

and

rank

such

wonder,, and

desired

wished

therefore

of Indian

robe

Oriana, whom

most

that

renown

on

man

lad)% and she

could fancywoman

flowers of gold; her hair

was

of

receive

ready

than

the fair Grasinda

when

Now

his

saw

had

OF

TIMES

THE

precious stones

of

the

roses

dered
bor-

exceeding

f
His

fine,soft garments, wove

All over,

with

These
For

him,
"

and

ease

her

in silk and

In

subtle

of

Anoon
do

In

kevechers

taught,

wrought.*'%

tyte.

samyte, "
sche

To

so

toil well

gold,Alcina

Elene, al

robe

such

cunning skill,

declare

wantonness

hand,

Mayde

with

her

gan

tyre,

Lybeau's profyte
whyt,

Arayde wyth golde wyre.

A

velvwet

mantyll gay,

Pelored|"wyth
Sche
A
Of

stones

The

of
yn

of Gaul, bk. i. ch.

Amadis

Oil. Fur.

\\Pelorea

her

and
best

"

transl.

furred.

by

and

abowte

caste

sercle upon

grys

Rose.

xv.

gray,
her

swyre

molde,

golde,
that

empyre."^[
f Ibid. bk. iv. ch. iii.

" Samyte rich silk.

^| Lybeaus Disconus.
"

ROMANCE

We

kercheves

"

of those

the labours

days were

merely good-appearing garments

woman

for doubtless

"

to that

"

could

"

of

beyond that

well

schyre,*

Arayde wyth ryche gold wyre.''

"

needle-

123

CHIVALRY.

of
perpetually

read

But

AND

it

the

confined

to

skill of the
butable
solelyattri-

was

with

them

imbue

outward

mere

not

value

far

garnish.

seyde,Syr Knight, gentyland hende,f

She
I wot

thy stat,ord, and ende,

of me
Be naught aschamed
thou wylt trulyto me
take,

If
And

alle

for

wemen

me

forsake

Ryche i wyll make the.

I wyll the geve an alner.J
Imad
of sylk and of gold cler,
As

Wyth

fayrymages

oft thou

puttestthe

mark

of

In wat

so

him, that he determined

court

that

ever

had

been

is the
with

content

Galaor, which

and

therinne

marvellous

more
infinitely
King Lisuarte was

Amadis

hond

gold thou schalt wynne,

placethat thou be.''"

But

"(

thre ;

the dwarf

to hold

held

:
following
the tidings
of
had brought

the most

in Great

"

honourable
Britain.

sently
Pre-

knights came
through the gate, two of
them armed at all points,the third unarmed, of good
well proportioned,
his hair grey, but of
stature and
and comely old age.
He held in his hand a
a green
which was
coffer ; and, having inquired
the king,dismounted
from his palfreyand kneeled
before him,
saying, God preserve you, Sir ! for you have made
the noblest promise that ever
king did, if you hold it/
three

'

""'"'"

Schyre
"

Alner

"

clear.

Hende

"

kind, obliging

" Launfal.
G

124

OF

NEEDLEWORK

THE

OF

TIMES

To
quoth Lisuarte.
maintain
chivalryin its highesthonour and degree :
fore
few princes now-a-days labour
to that end ; there'What

promise

are

live.'

God

'

the old

great

grant
:

court

to

shall

you
I have

London,
such

he

pearlsand

have

'

quoth

summoned

brought something

person, for such an

the coffer and
took

that all were

gems,

while

hold

opened
Gold, so curiouslywrought

of

all other/

complete it !

because

becomes

Then
Crown

life to

you

and

man

which

here

above

knight, that promise

Certes,

'

commended

be

to

you

that?'

was

amazed

sion.'
occa-

out

and

set

at its

beauty;

with

appeared that it was only fit for the brow

Is it not a work
of some
which the
mighty lord.
at ?
said the
most
cunning artists would wonder
In truth it is.'
Lisuarte
old knight.
answered,
to be
Yet,' said the knight, it hath a virtue more
and

it well

'

'

'

'

than

esteemed

king

hath

'

I will

since

it you,

give

richest
seen

was

sir,for

it

birds

it all the

it looked

the

like

Queen,

was

the

was

hath

boon.'

one

took

purchase
from

the

mantle

that

pearls and precious

beautified, there
and

miracle.
this cloth

his

made

king

no

beautiful

most

for besides

he

whatever

increase
it

then

bring :' and

and

which

with

figuredon

that

mantle

coffer the

that

for whom

for him
:

always

rich

stones

shall

richness

also, Lady,' said the knight, should

You

ever

head

of his death

day

it.

worn

his

on

and

work

rare

this it did

honour;
tillthe

it

its

beasts
e

On

in

were

nature;

so

faith,'exclaimed

my

only have been

made
by that Lord who can do everything.' It is
of man,' said the old knight;
but rarely
the work
will one be found to make its fellow : it should belong
(

can

'

'

ROMANCE

wife

to

shall

rather

answered,
will

Lisuarte
mantle
But

be

you

for

bade

him

give

the

that

it is above

true,

demand

all

what

he

Britna

price;

ask.'

you

would

And
for

the

which

robe

it

weareth

her husband.'

it whatsoever

crown."

and

for she

dispute with

If that

'

125

CHIVALRY.

maiden,

than

have

never

AND

occupied the busy fingersof

the Saracen
king's daughter for seven
long years,
and of which
the jewelled ornaments
inwrought in
then
it
was
as
were
sought far and
very usual
wide, has often been referred to (albeitwanting in
fairygifts)as a crowning proof of female industry
and
talent.
We
give the full descriptionfrom the
"

"

Romance

of
"

Sone

aftur

The

the

of

Cesyle

Emperour

ryche present wyth hym

cloth

was

wellcomed

He

He

presented
And

that

Wyth
Full

As

and

And

stones

As

thykke

and

ar

of

Amadis

Hende

wer

myght be,

as

myche
to

se,

sette

y say

of Gaul,
"

prys,

nakette,

they

sothe

pyght,

was

ruhyes,

semely

crapowtes

For

hit

as

OfFtopaze

Of

hit

ther

thykke

That

hys kne,

on

rychyly dyght.

cloth

other

nobyll knyghte hyghte,

hym

of stones

browght,

Emperour ryght,

the

sette

he

wordylye wroght,
hym at the hende.f

that

Syr Tergaunte,

wende,

gann

that

collection

whyle,

yu

ryche Kynge
To

"

in Ritson's

Emare,'

the.

bk.

i. ch.

xxx.

kind, civil,obliging.

"

12G

NEEDLEWORK

The

"

OF

cloth

The

And
The

had

thys

Or
The

ys

he

In

of

sayde

And

hygh,

on

fayry,

answered

Cysyle

ther

of hethennes

stones

And,
The

the

as

on

with

Seven

that

and

love

they

loveden

And

And

Saracen

was

was

stones

so

wit

with

and
onyx

golde

and

other

made

wer

and
in

Deamondes

endynge,
hyde.

hem

carbankull

Sette

makynge,

to

bryght

stones

Kasydonys

wyde.

yn

that

Portrayed they
Wyth

was

stonde

Amadas,

With

Of

full

to

korner

in honde,

this cloth

wer

ys not

on

ldoyne
For

side ;

browght

was

herte

In

In

ylke a

hit

wynter

hit

Or

gret honour,
asowr,f

yn

Sowghte they

pride,

and

story telles
that

stones

lees,

hit all with

wrowghte

ryche golde

And

than

non

cloth withouten

purtreyedhyt

Wyth

be ?

thys

may

Crystyante.

all

this

And

ston

non,

amerayle* dowghter

Made

ryche

ryche a jewellys

The

se,

ellysa vanyte.

Kyng

So

"

not

sayde, How

Emperour

Sertes

OF

therupone,

myght hyt

Redy syght

lokede

glysteryngof the

For

TIMES

displayed sone,

was

Emperoer
And

THE

honour,

trewe-love

flour,

of hewe,

safere,
so

clere,

newe,

rubyes,
of

mychyll pryse,

menstrellyswith

king.

trewe,

her

gle.

Asowr"

azure.

128

NEEDLEWORK

OF

When

the cloth

To

sowdan

"

the

That

to ende

semely

Of

hit wan,

he

Wyth maystrye
For
I

brynge

He

receyved

not

which

must

myghth
me,

yalte,

Kmperour,

hit

wyth gret honour,

this

dismiss

much

mantle
have

fayr and

hym

all have

perhaps

enough

tokens

or

In

"

marking
whole

and

was

sets

often

of

have

we

to the

have

manufacture,

souvenirs,

mothers'

our

to

subjectwithout

or

some

ing
record-

in

tried the skill and

of the needle

foolish

lyght."

celebrated

the fair votaries

seen,

rychelydyght.'

ys

thonkede

speciesof

and

hit the

yaf

must

yaf hyt

cloth

He

And

and

hit the in sje

Thys

We

he

gret love

syghte :

nobyll man,

sowdan

the

was

OF

browght,

was

of

TIMES

wrought,

was

hit

sone

My fadyr was

'

THE

romance,

patience of
of

some

been

us

initials with
other

We

uttermost.

such

hair,

as

fooleries.

fine
grandmothers' days,when
the sine qua non
of a good education,
thus elaboratelymarked;
linen were
and

we

"

marvelled

when

these

tokens

of

displayedHo
grandmotherlyskill and industrywere
then should
our
wondering and aching eyes. What
have thought of King Ryence's mantle, of rich
we
of kings,
round
with
the beards
scarlet, bordered
full craftily
sewed
thereon
by accomplished female
Thus

hands.
Arthur:'
"

Came

of North

of them

runs

the

anecdote

in

the

'

Morte

"

hastcly from King Ryence,

comfited
Wales, saying,that King Ryence had disand overcomen
eleaven kings,and everiche
did him
homage, and that was thus : they
a

messenger

ROMANCE

AND

129

CHIVALRY.

their beards cleane flayne

off, wherefore
gave him
the messenger
for King Arthur's
beard, for
came
King Ryence had purfeleda mantell with king's
"

beards, and there lacked

for

tell, wherefore

for

would

enter

never

leave

'

which

mayest

his beard,

is the most

sent

tell thou
to

to

the

more

was

put

into

at

the

As

With

to make

it be

or

"

his knees,

ning
begintomes

ditties from

on

Arthur

takes its rise,this incident

Pentecost

at Camelot

his faire queene

her

before

dame

day,
kept his
Guenever

Court

royall,

the

gay,

barons

Cryed, Largesse,largesse,Chevaliers

doughty dwaife to the uppermost deas

Right pertlyegan pricke,kneelingon

With

tres

steven+

HeK-ke"

11 stout

herald's oat.

amids

bardie.

knee

all the preas,

Steven

"

jesty
ma-

Kenilworth

at

in hall;
sitting
many
With ladies attired in purpleand pall;
And
heraults in hewkes,* hootingon high,
bold

And

of

which

thus:"

it fell out

King

thou

"

rhyme, and was

sung
grand entertainment

Castle,1575,

that

both

on

elaborate

ballad

modern

the

"

cream

into those

times

yet for

king

sage
mes-

Also

day,when they were

of the ponderous

Queen Elizabeth's
the

lewdest

king.

homage

me

else he shall leese his head.'

to skim

and

is full young

beard

my

"

former

and

brenn

villainous

heard

man

of; but
purfell
long he shall do
In

else he

or

'

or

man-

slay,and
till he have
thy head and thy beard.
sage,
King Arther, thou hast said thy mes-

ever

see

sent

the

placeof

into his lands, and

Well,' said

that

he

one

voice,sound.
g3

130

OF

NEEDLEWORK

Sayd, Nowe
Sir

bids thee

Or

else from

For

his rohe

With
And

there

This
This

is

Great

and

Pages

in

Then

wine

hundred

But

wassel

say

That
And

for his bold

shortlywith

Out
With

Whether

of North

swords,
he

or

A.nd therewith

basins

and

not

King
he

thou

his

fill,

bold.

dwarfe, quoth the king,

and

pans

where

he

razors,

defye;

will him
and

"

quicklyshall trye

good sword

ring

will prove

his

Kantle

stower

knight,

drunken

I do him

Arthur

shook

coyned gold

message

Gales

this courteous

for his message

Ryence,

in

hall;

his wille

and

eaten

pieces of fine

to Sir

steeds

began still:
deevelywas dight ;

he had

had

he

began lower;

stowre

full

dinner

given this dwarfe

Were

"

and

when

And

the

stound

aghast;

were

king'sseneschal.

the

soveraignes,quoth

the dwarfe's

Of

in the

bower,

; ladies

squiresstartled, like

Kay,

past,

in

; lords

blustered

yell'dout

in that

Then

his mouthe

screecht

queen

tahle.

in hall and

yeomen
Sir

stout

so

rounde

from

came

twelfth out:

fable,

no

thy

stormed

Silence,my
And

never

barons

puff'd;

Knights

be thou

bothe

the

kantle,*

the

noyse

fum'd

king

in

make

of all

about,

bordered

yet

message

the

send,

rich scarlet mantle,

I tell thee

done,

teethe

was

Princes

An

done,

this mortal

When

is

stande,to

be

the

see

he will it off rend.

lefte

room

to

thee, and

save

to him

anon

kings beards

be

must

The

"

of state

must

Maugre

"

thy jaws

thine

For

heard

thy

eleven

God

King Arthur,

Northgales greetethwell thee,

of

Ryence

And

11

sir

OF

TIMES

THE

corner.

the

best barbor

Excalabor."

alludes to the

Drayton thus
"

Affrighted all the

report of

Th'

ravisht
for

Made

great Acts

strooke

that

over

with

field he

Howell's

hee

Neece,

the
slew

of

too

gentlemen's beards, but even

golden locks of the gentlesex
farre from

Hard

by

Which

doth

And

way,

Said
But

by

And

stands

"

lewd

castle

She
And

Calidore,and
what

which

sought

by
a

long time

wrong

name

away,

for passage

they

pay.

at first it reare,

The

Briana

have

doth

owne

none;

doughty knight,
she might.
by all the meanes

lov'd

his love

it knowne.

Lady which
night;

prouder Lady liveth

to win

way,

heare,

tell,if thou

deare

overthrowne.

they

Squire:

hath

to be

cause,

that
is

I did

did

means

then

Castle

Then

strong,
ill,

and

Drayton'sPolyolbion,Song

4.

the

flowingand

yond rocky hill,

custom

ever

as

for what

Sayd
This

use,

on

(and yet they needs must passe that

of the streight,
and rocks among,)

shamefull

adoption

tolls

the

on

they that Ladies locks doe shave

that knight'sberd for toll,which

And

"

reason

levels

long mayntaind with mighty

knight nor lady passe along

no

may

By
But

observe

it hath

For
That

hence, upon

streightthere

in his

only

not

faire;

coat away,

uncourteous

for he

ran,

the

Helena

young

feare:

:
Emperor wan
in his repaire,

trophy brought the Giant's

the beards of kings."*

Spenser is

Not

"

ere

with

dead

Europe

of the incident

"

that while

him

great Rython's selfe

how

And

world, hy

famous

In that most

Who

his

Armies

led ; those

thither

Lucius

By

And

they,how himselfe great Arthur did advance,

(with his Allies)that puissantforce in France,

meet

As

circumstance

same

told

Then
To

131

CHIVALRY.

AND

ROMANCE

132

NEEDLEWORK

"

His

is

name

OF

Crudor,

TIMES

THE

through high

who

OF

disdaine

proud despightof his selfe-pleasing

mynd,
love
Refused
hath to yeeld her
againe,
she for him
doe fynd,
Untill a Mantle
beards of knights and locks of Ladies
With
lynd,
hath
this
she
Castle
to provide,
Which
dight,
And

hath

therein

And
Cald

Maleffbrt,a

Who

executes

Seneschall

of mickle

man

might,

will,with

wicked

her

assynd,
*
despight.'?

worse

pluck the beard" of another has ever

and
the highest possiblesign of scorn
it was
certainlya refinement on
; but

To

"

held

matter,

for which

we

are

indebted

the

to

been
tumely
con-

the

Morte

probably, according to Bishop

Percy,to Geoffreyof Monmouth's
historyoriginally,
for the unique and
ornamental
to which
purpose
these despoiledlocks were
applied. So particularly
anxious
was
Charlemagne to shew this despite to
Arthur,

an

rather

or

that,

enemy

he

as

France

to

Gaudisse.

of Admiral

in

less than

despatched no
from

read

we

Huon

de Bordeaux,

fifteen successive

Babylon
And

to

this,by

pull

the

means

no

sengers
mes-

beard

sant
plea-

operation,was to be accompanied by one even

still less inviting.
les Barons,
le due Naymes, " tres tous
Alors
le Roy, lequel
s'en retournerent
au
palais avec
"

s'assist

sur

un

banc

dore

de

fin

or,

"

les Barons

luy. Si commanda
qu'on luy amenast
Huon,
lequel il vint, et se mist a genoux
devant
le roy, ou luy priant moult humblement
quepitie " mercy voulsist avoir de luy. Alors le roy
le voyant en
sa
luy dist : Huon
puisque
presence
tous

vers

autour

moy

veux

de

estre

Faerie

accorde, si convient
Queeue.

Book

vi.

que

faciez

AND

ROMANCE

ce

je

que

vous

obeir

Sire,

donncray.

or

133

CHIVALRY.

dist Huon,

ce

aujourd'huychose en ce
monde
mortel, que corps humain
puisseporter, que
hardiment
n'osasse
ia pour
ne
entreprendre,
peur
de mort
le laisseray faire," fust
aller jusne
l'arbre sec, voire jusques aux
portaux d'enfer
ques
pour

il n'est

vous,

a.

combattre
cule
dist
car,

fist le fort Her-

comme

fusse accorde.
ne
qu' a vous
Charles, je cuide qu'en pirelieu vous
de quinze messages
qui de par moy
:

Huon,

avant

n'en

envoyez,
te

infernaux,

aux

diray ou

est

tu

iras, puis que

volonte

y ont
homme.

seul

un

tu

envoyeray,

Si

de

qui

veux

este

toy

qu'ilte convient aller

la cite de Babylonne,par devers diray,
" gardes
en
face faute, quand la seras
ta vie ne
sur
venu
que
tu rnonteras
en
son
palais,laou tu attendras Theure
aye

de

m'a

revenu

par

ce

mercy,

disner

son

convient
nue

que

grand baron
luy trencheras
Admiral.

tu

que

de tous

"

que

tu

de

verras

premier "

table

sa

convient

fille

trois fois
la

qui

scaches

le

Si

Tespee
le plus

armes,

manger

te

ce

sous

toutes

table.

a.

tu

quel qu'ilsoit, soit Roy, ou

le chef

la baises

assis

verras

tel si que

aprcs
Esclarmonde

fiances, "

veux

que tu le
tu sois arme

Et

la belle

pere,

"

poing, par

au

est,

que

faire

tant

TAmiral

Gaudisse

la presence

en

seront

c'est la

que
tu

de

presens,

plus belle

son

je
pucelle
car

qu'aujourd'huysoit en vie, puis aprcs diras de par

1'Admiral
a
qu'il m'cnvoye mille esprcuiers,
moy
mille

mille

ours,

jeune valets, "

"

royaume,

portes
dents

une

viautres,

poignee

ce,

machoires.

de

Ha!

enchainez, "

mille

plus belles pucellesde

mille des

avecques

tous

sa

convient

barbe,

que
et

tu

quatre

me

son

rapde

ses

Sire, dirent les Barons, bien

134

NEEDLEWORK

desirez

mort,

sa

loires

aucune

sans

retourne

ne

Car

ferois

Huon,

m'avez

voulez

que

volonte

dit

"

"

moi

ne

dist

jamais

le

vers

monstre.

se

Sire,
tout

racompte

Roy

si

car

mache-

les dents

trainer.

"

Roy,

mensonge,

veux
moy
de nostre
plaisir

au

dit le

ce

luy

faire

message

devant

Oui

face.

telle,si

est

ne

pendre

vous

je

dit Huon,

ce

France,

en

le

je

tel

de

quant

OF

TIMES

j'ayela barbe
tromperie ne

fait que

ne

THE

dites la verite

enchargez,vous
tant

OF

dit

ce
ce

que

Charles

ma

paix. Sire
Seigneur,je feray
avoir

"

fournirayvostre message."
sewed
In what
on
preciseway the beards were
Whether
not exactlyinformed.
the mantles
are
we
left to shine in its own
this royal exuberance
was
naked
unborrowed
lustre, its own
magnificence,as
valuable

too

things of
the

over

earth

intermixed

be

to
:

surface

whether
of

the

it
**

with
was

the

grosser

thinly scattered

rich scarlet ;'

whether

or

gathered into locks, perhaps gemmed round

with orient pearl,or clustered togetherwith brilliant
rich
rubies
emeralds, sparkling diamonds,
or
:" whether
it was
Sweets
to the sweet
exposed to
the mantle, or whether
the vulgar gaze
it was
on
so
arrangedthat only at the pleasureof the mighty

it

was

"

"

these

we

of them
museum

be

from

recorded,

have

respecting them
years." But we

may

were

visible

all

on

"

should
we
joice
redeeply interestingparticulars
in having any information
; but, alas ! excepting

what

the

beauties

its radiant

wearer

has

"

not

floated

down

perhaps form
viewing a shield of

of

supposed

to

United
have

tide

correct

human

Service
been

the
a

may

the

circumstance

one

Club,

of

idea

hair

in

which

comjjiled(so

to

136

NEEDLEWORK

OF

embroidered.

were

rich

THE

The

TIMES

coverlid

OF

often

was

very

Here

"

The

beds

ladi

With

riche

Of

gold

are

on

gay

High

o'er her

With

broideringgems

With

The
A

with

silk and

fair reclin'd

the

silver columns
her

bow'r, where

coverlet

breathed,

as

warm

rais'd,

proud pavilionblaz'd."
stood

vallance

of

bed,

spread :

of silk ; o'er all

wrought

gold."f

design'd

richlybroider'd

palle."*

purpre

bed

on

bespred,

furs of Alexandria

pillowswere

Which

The

head,

milkwhite

rare

and

magnificence

pass'dinto

Beneath,

clothes

With

Thence

hire bed,

adorned

seen

"

"

lay in

hung ;
was
flung

phoenix plumes,
with

its
life,

rich

perfumes."J

of the

knightsof these days was gorgeous

and
beautiful ; and
though the materials
might be in themselves, and frequentlywere
costly,
still were
they entirelyindebted to the female hand
And
the
for the rich elegance of the tout ensemble.
of disarming and robing knights anew
after
custom
the

array

conflict,whether
alluded

have

we

much

as

was

to

as

or

the

of real
a

even

ladies

or

mimic

war,

to

which

practiceof classical antiquity,

forded
more
practisednow, and afan

admirable

opportunity of

exhibiting alike their preference,their taste, and

their liberality.
and
Amadis
Agrayes proceeded till the}rcame
the
to the castle of Torin,
dwelling of that fair
"

damsel,

young
*

The

Kyng

where

they

were

of Tars.

I Partenopex of Blois.

disarmed

Orl. Fur.

and

AND

ROMANCE

the hall."
"

he

they arrived

chamber, and
washed
coloured
The

palace,and
Knight) lodged

into

the

dust, and

there

was

in

rich

and

face

his hands

disarmed, and

was

from

at the

Sword

Green

(the

conducted

they were

Thus

they

him

gave

rose-

mantle."t
of

romance

instances

Ywaine

"

damisel

Lufsumer

And

abounds

Into

And

with

chamber

scho

mantil

led,

me

scho

cled ;

me

fair and

of

the pane

land,

armuie

of purpur,

was

in
me

myue

I se,

ever

by the hand,
gentyl creature

that

unlaced

And

'"

Gawin"

me,

never

toke

scho

sone

Al

that

lifed

Hendly

It

unto

come

semeliest

The
**

Again

and

"

fine,

ermyne."

"

The

maiden

redies

Bilive sho
And

wele

girdelful

Of perry

hyr

fal

rath,\

gert syr Ywaine

cled him

Forord

And

and

given them,

mantles

137

CHIVALRY.

sethin
with

bath,

(") in gude scarlet,

gold fret,

riche for the

(||)and

of

nanes,

preciousstanes."

"

(i

The

mayden

Forto
Serk
That

Of

unarme

and
ful

Amadis

Bath

both

war
craftily

tharto

Sho

soft

white

broght hym

"

|| Perry
"

and

bayne (U)

Ywayne,

syr

breke

riche cloth

And

bowsom

was

sho

hym broght,

wroght,
als the sylk,

als any
ful riche

my

Ik.

wedes

to wer.''

of Gaul.

Ibid.

speedily.

"

Sethin

^1

Bayne

jewels.

afterward.

"

"

ready.

in

138

NEEDLEWORK

On
me,
was

OF

THE

TIMES

OF

the

widely acknowledged principleof Love

love my dog," the steed of a favoured
knight
often adorned
by the willingfingersof the fair.
u

"

She

their

and

each

subtle toil ; and

piece of

this she

tabards

or

who

fine

and

trapt the

her

gold o'erlaid

sable

hue

horse."

which

surcoats

obeyed,

herself,to sew,

with

silk of white

With

armour

dame

with

task'd,together

With

The

damsel

Each

knights wore

the article of dress

was

over

which

in

they

delightedto displaytheir magnificence.They

in form, but were
varied
mostly made of rich silk,
with
of cloth of gold or silver,lined or
trimmed
or
choice and expensive furs, and usually,also, having
the
armorial
broidered.
bearings of the family richlyemmost

Thus
those

times.

the

heralds

of

the

were

in the

circumstance

even

acknowledged armorial
often wrought symbolicalof

Besides

bearings,devices
some

women

were

told in Amadis

life of the

Emperor of Rome,
his black
on
a
surcoat, had
golden chain-work
which
device he swore
to lay aside till
never
woven,
he had Amadis
The
in chains.
same
romance
gives
the followingincident regarding a surcoat.
and
Then
Amadis
cried to Florestan
Agrayes,
weeping as he spake,good kinsman, I fear we have
lost Don
Galaor, let us seek for him.
They went to
we

are

that

Thus

wearer.

the

"

the

spot where

Cildadan, and
the
were
many
him not, till as

his

seen

dead

who

Orl.

last

brother

they moved
*

smitten

had

Amadis

lay

there

away

Fur.,canto

on

down
foot
that

King
but

they

so
saw

the bodies, Flores-

23.

ROMANCE

tan

knew

was

of

him

AND

the

by

with

they made great moan

The
shape of them,
considerably;besides
at

time

one

trail

to

worn

as

have

we

minor

at

But

ground.

names

dos

attired, which

was

in white

arms

his back

and

which

robe

sarsnet,
another

they were
another
so
long as
this luxurious
style

with

direful

argent

field

gules,one
It

his breast.

on

Chan-

with

embroidered

was

effects.

Sir John

which

in

surcoat

varied

remarked,

alterations

short,

Froissart

then

him."

occasionallyattended

was

which

surcoal,

silver flowers, and

over

very

the

on

of his

sleeve

worked

azure,

139

CHIVALRY.

was

his
on

long

ground, and this circumstance,

most
probably,caused the untimely death of one of
the most
esteemed
knightsof chivalry.
Sir John
Chandos
of the brightestof
one
was
that chivalrous
circle which
sparkled in the reign
He
of Edward
the Third.
was
gentle as well as
valiant

sudden.
his

with

van

and

Cressy ;

to

cheer

His

the

battle

death

was

Prince
of Poic-

unlooked

his

attendants

in

pressed
devain

them.

him by
kechyn,warmyng
the fyre,
and his servantes
jangledwith hym, to the
of his melancholy;his sertent
to bring him
out
vantes
had prepared for hym a place to rest hym :
than he demanded
if it were
nere
day, and therewt.
"

there

cae

hym,

and

'

"

he stode

at

Black

the

disappointmentshad

Some

spirits,and

endeavoured
And

the

left his side.

never

and

the

in

was

battle of

tiers he
for

he

at the

swept

so

man

into

the

house, and

came

sayd,

Sir, I have
What

in

be

brought you tidynges.'

they,tell me ?
'

before

140

NEEDLEWORK

OF

THE

Sir,,
surelythe frechmen

'

How

'

knowest

Sir/

"

them

sayd he,

they take
What

be

way

Sir, I

'

'

that ?

rydingeabrode.'

'

departed fro saynt Saluyn

the

they ryden ?
the

tell you

nat

can

highway

Frechmen

Sir, it is Sir

"

be

with

What

'

thou

OF

TIMES

'

certentie, but

surely

to Poiters.'
'

be

they : canst thou tell me ?

Loys of Saynt Julyan, and Car-

lovet the Breton.'

'Well, quoth Sir Johan

have

Chandos,

nat,

care

lyst this night to ryde forthe : they may

happe to-be encoutred though I be nat ther.'
And
he taryed there styll
so
acertaynespacein
he had well aduysed
a
gret study,and at last,when
I have sayd here
hymselfe,he sayde, Whatsoever
it be good that I ryde forthe ; I
before, I trowe
no

"

must

retoume

Poictiers, and

to

it will be

anone

day.'
That

'

is

sir/ quoth the

true

knightes

about

hym.
'

he

Then/

sayd, 'make

redy,

for I

wyll ryde

forthe.'
And

"

The

they dyd."

so

skirmish

commenced

there

had

fallen

of which
morning, in consequence
the ground was
slippery; the knight's foot
very
himself, it became
slipped,and in trying to recover
entangled in the folds of his magnificent surcoat ;

great dew

thus
he

in the

the fall was

was

down

rendered

he received

irretrievable, and
his death

whilst

blow.

-knights were
sorely grieved.
They "lamentably complayned, and sayd, 'A, Sir
The

barons

and

AND

ROMANCE

the flouve of all chivalry,

vnhappely

Chandos,

Johan

141

CHIVALRY.

glayue forged that thus hath wouded

you,
and
brought you in parell of dethe :' they wept
that were
about
piteously
hym, and he herde and
vnderstode
them
he could
well, but
speke no
that

was

frendes, and

also

of his enemyes,
were
rightsoroufull;the
lysshmen loued hym, bycause all noblenesse

Eng-

worde."

"For

"

his

dethe, his

some

founde

was

hated him, because

hym ; the frenchmen
they doubted hym ; yet I herde his dethe greatly
complayned among
rightnoble and valyantknightes
in

of France*."
Across

this

surcoat

was

the

worn

scarf, the

dispensable
in-

appendage of a knight when

fully
equipped : it was
usually the gift of his
ladyelove," and embroidered
by her own fair hand.
And
deaths sooner
a
knightwould encounter
fifty
"

than

part with

this cherished

Garcia

of

Perez

Spanishknight of
a companion were
Moors.

seven

de

emblem.

Vargas,

the thirteenth

friend

fled

corded
re-

noble-minded

century, that he and

suddenly met

once

His

It is

by

but

not

party of
Perez

so

prepared himself for the combat, and

while keeping the Moors
at bay, who
hardlyseemed
inclined to fight,
he found that his scarf had
fallen

he

at

his shoulder.

from

fi

He

look'd around, and

And
'

once

they

These

Now,

had

my

the

pick'dit from

Moors,' quoth

by

saw

Garci

soul,the scarf

Scarf, for

the

still the Moors

sward, and

Perez,

'

uncourteous

fney stole,yet

Froissart,by Lord

loop'dit
durst

Berners, vol.

on

Moors
not

were
a

near,

spear.

they be
questionme

i. p. 270.

"

142

"

OF

NEEDLEWORK

'

Now,

'

For

reach
silken

more

once

THE

helmet.'

my

should

stringwhy

TIMES

OF

The

Esquire said him, nay,

fling,perchance, your life

you

away?'
it from

I had
And

"

'

scarf,be

Moslems

the

rode

that

saw

cried,and

That
The
Bare

Seven

day

he

in firm array:

throng,he

rightfuriously.

Vargas

his head, his sword

lady'spledge,'

my

to the

came

his breast

hack'd

alone,

camp
was

red, and from

was

sore

green,

rode

robbers, lay down

lady'slargess,around

turbans

Seville shall show.'

proud

cried, they felt his faulchion's edge.

lord of

the

when

scarf,his
was

as

ever

in

him, they stood

their armed

among

sure,

Stand, stand, ye thieves and

He

"

when

But
He

Moor

never

lad)-,'
quoth Garci, 'long ago,

my

thrown

his

pommel
Garci

before

ween,

strung
Perez

hung."'
this butchering
redeeming trait on
the hero returned
sort or bravery to find that when
the name
he steadilyrefused to reveal
to the camp
who had so cravenlydeserted
him.
of the person
But the favours which ladies presentedto a knight
various ; consistingof
were
jewels,ensigns of
It

casts

"

noblesse,
knots

scarfs, hoods,
; in

of ribbon

These

their dress."

his person, and

his life. Sometimes
on

the hero
"

sleeves, mantles, bracelets,

word,

he

And

he would

as

on

unfolde,

it set

his helme

hye,

on

of

ryche golde,
he had of his lady.
Whiche
Full richelyhis shelde was
wrought,
With
But

thredes

rede

With

on

The

stones

asure

his

lady was

yelowe heere
*

The

have

lock of his fair one's

did he her heere

Than

part of

alwaysplacedconspicuously

defended,
a

detached

some

Fair

and
his

beten

golde,

thought,

what

he

dydbeholde."*

Lady

of

Faguell.

done

hair inspired

144

NEEDLEWORK

sleeve

husband

who

TIMES

THE

to the

brought back

was

of her

OF

the presence
racter
chathe admirable

lady in

knowing

of the chevalier, conceived

occasion
c4ven

ruby,"

honour

as

Another
was

objectthe

And

by

his banner

Minotaure

account

to

sleeve,

borne

the

top
of

emblem

otherwise

like

the

sur

circumstance

some

Theseus

"

Knighte's

is his penon

which

which

of

or,

ther

that he

taking

ybete

was

slew in Crete."

of

Hotspur'spennon,
his attempt at its recapture, is abridged byMills* from Froissart.
It is interesting,
playing
disas
the

temper

of the

times

about

these

ratively
compa-

and
matters,
trifling
being the record
history,may tend to justifyour
quotations of
similar
"

soldier had

Chaucer, in the

that of Duke

gold ful riche,in

The

Mr.

so

me

to the

fixed

crest,

allusion

life. Thus,

Tale," describes

and

my

the pennon,

on

owner's

emblematic

in the owner's

The

does

expeditionof the
Holy Land, the sacred

the

usuallybore

Of

of

in feats

victoryto

stuff, and

embroidered

was

"

his

be

"

If the

for its

an

he

the

I will

of silk,linen, or
lance.

coat,

since

no

keep it all my life."

important adjunctto the equipment of
the pennon
ensign or streamer
; an

of the

it

next

ascribe

to

love of him

cross

the

chevalier; but

much

the

was

the

to

formed

the

knight who

arms

knight

said

jealousyon
lady, shall

the

to

for the

The

"

OF

In

from

nature

the

commanded

reign

romance.

of Richard

by James,
of the

of

Earl

troubles

Hist.

the

Second, the Scots

of

vantage
Douglas, takingadbetween
the King and his

Chivalry.

H5

CHIVALRY.

AND

ROMANCE

they
poured upon the south. When
sated with plunderand destruction they rested
the
the English force which
Newcastle, near

Parliament,
were

at

other border chieftains

levied.
hastily

had

The

"

and

of Northumberland

Earl

and

EaiTs

two

foremost

ever

feats of

proper

that which
Sir

and
Scot

were

done

were

arms

hand

was
fighting
was

young and lustyknights,

at the barriers to skirmish.
Many
sons

to hand.

occurred

The

noblest

the

encounter

Douglas
Hotspur. The

of his foeman

pennon

The

the Earl

between

Henry Percy, surnamed

won

achieved.

and

; and

in

the

victoryhe proclaimedthat he would

carry it to Scotland, and set it on high on his castle
afar off.
of Dalkeith, that it might be seen
that Douglas should
replied,
Percy indignantly
not pass the border without
being met in a manner
which would givehim no cause
for boasting.
"With
the Earl Douglas invited him
equal spirit
that nightto his lodgingto seek for his pennon.
Scots then retired and kept careful watch,
The
triumph of

his

"

"

the

lest

Englishmen
burnt

of

taunts

their

make

to

to efface his

an

leader

should

attack.

reproach,but

he

urge

the

Percy's spirit
was

counselled

into calmness.
"

The

Scots
with

to return

Otterbourn

all haste

and

wished

to their

own

country.

But

their

the

little value

knights

dislodged,seeminglyresolved

arrested

the assault
of such

then

steps. The castle resisted

capture of it would have been

to them

that

tne

that most

of the Scotch

enterprise should

be

abandoned.
"

Douglas commanded,

however, that the assault

H

146

NEEDLEWORK

should

OF

TIMES

THE

OF

enced
influpersevered in, and he was entirely
by his chivalric feelings. He contended that
the very difficulty
of the enterprise
the reason
was
of undertaking it ; and he wished
not to be too far
from
Sir Henry
Percy, lest that gallant knight
should
able to do his devoir in redeeming
not be
his pledge of winning the pennon
of his arms
again.
Hotspur longed to follow Douglas and redeem
his badge of honour
the sage knights of the
; but
be

"

country, and

such

as

well

were

said

spoke against his opinion, and

there

fortuneth

the Earl

well beaten
and

him

oftentimes

war

has

Douglas

dear, for he

it

in

won

another

the

to

came

day

that all the power

if we
fields ; and
issue
well

enough

to

fightwith

this skirmish

made

town), they
what
two

three

or

all the

By

words

such

The

"

and

the

enclose

us,

to

look

the
the

lightedup
as

valiant

of

history;
what

waved

do

character

as

for there

was

did his devoir

in the

of

us

than

and
squires,

in the
been

the

camp.

put

his brother
came.

night breeze,

wars

wont

more

of

battle

fought hand

to

chivalry,
ensued

in the
any recorded
neither knight nor
and

the

with

pennon

moment

had

than

Scottish

know

"

which

loves

of

strong

out

us

these, Hotspur and

hostile banners

upon

not

and

loose

knights and

bright moon,

much

as

are

draw

to

us

adventure.'
as

If

(and perchance they have

It is better

to

Sir,

he bought
pennon,
to seek it,and was

and

refrained, but the coveted

were

but

with

hundred

country

forth

'

losses.

many

shall win

you

them

soon

may
they will.

gate

arms,

him,

to

we
say this because
of Scotland
is abroad

Sir, we

more.

your

in

expert

of

pages

squire

to hand."

ROMANCE

The

AND

Scots remained

Douglas

masters

slain, and

was

the

147

CHIVALRY.

of the field : but

this loss could

capture of

not

the

be

the
compensed
re-

Percy.
Little did the
gentle Kate
anticipatethis
when
her fairyfingers
with proud and
catastrophe
embroidered
the flowing
on
loving alacrity
pennon
the inspiring
of her chivalric husband
watchword
and his noble family Esperance.
even

by

"

"

"

h2

i4S

CHAPTER

XL

TAPESTRY.

The

term

tapistry(from tapisser,to

tapestry or

of

line,from the Latin word tapes, a cover

bed), is now
appropriatedsolelyto woven
of wool

and

silk ; but it has

hangings, whether
indeed
needle (as originally
whether
composed of canvass
cloth, leather, or
term

wall

or

hangings

appliedto all sorts

wrought entirelywith the

of

of the

even

to

seems

quoted above,

but

been

all were)
and

or

in the loom,

wool, or

of

painted
application

This wide
paper.
be justified
by the derivation

its

present

use

much

is

more

limited.
In the thirteenth

had

this

Near

stands
which

the wonder

excited
"

arts

The palace
in England.
high perfection
Westminster
received,under the fostering
age
patronof Henry III., a series of decorations, the remains
of which, though long hidden, have recently

attained
of

decorative

century the

and

admiration

monastery (says

the most

famous

is that celebrated

the warlike
with

and

an

of

histories of the whole

curious.*

Itinerary)
England ; in

ancient

royalpalaceof
chamber,

the

on

whose

Bible

are

walls all

painted
regular

skill,and explainedby a
inexpressible
written
complete series of texts, beautifully
*

See

Smith's

Historyof

the Ancient

Palace

of Westminster.

in

149

TAPESTRY.

French
of the

each

over

battle, to the

beholder, and

Hound

the

no

small

increase of

admiration

royalmagnificence."

the walls of St.

of
Stephen'schapeleffigies
the Apostles were
paintedin oil ; (whichwas thus
used with perfectness
and skill two centuries before
ab Eyck in 1410,)
its presumed discoveryby John
of the
the western
side was
a
on
grand composition
the
Painted
or
day of Judgment : St. Edward's
from the quality
Chamber,'' derived the latter name
of its embellishments, and the walls
and profuseness
of the whole palacewere
decorated with portraits
or
Nor was
ideal representations,
and historical subjects.
this the earliest periodin which connected
passages
of historywere
painted on the wainscot of apartments,
for the following
order, still extant, refers to
the renovation
of what must 'previouslyand at some
considerable
interval of time probably,have been
"

"

done.

1233, 17 Hen.

"Anno,

3. Mandatum

comiti South'ton

est

Vice-

quod Cameram
regislambruscatam
de castro
Winton
depingi faciat eisdem historiis
quibus fuerat pri'usdepicta."
About
1312, Langton,Bishop of Litchfield, commanded
the coronation, marriages,
and funeral
wars,
of his patron King Edward
I.,to be paintedin the
great hall of his episcopalpalace,which he had
newly built.
Chaucer frequently
of paintrefers to this custom
ing
the walls with historical or fanciful designs.
"

And

soth to faine my

Ful wel
And

Were
And

chambre

was

colours

fine

depainted

all the wals

with

paintedbothe
all the Romaunt

texte

and

glose,

of the Rose."

150
And

TAPESTRY.

again:
"

"

But

when

For

ther

Save

all

ypast,

was

lady ne creture,

nas

the wals

old

portraiture
horsemen, hawkis, and houndis,

Of
And

Often

I woke

on

hurt

dere all ful of woundis."

emblematical

devices

painted,which
gave the artist opportunityto displayhis fancyand
exercise his wit.
Dr.
Cullum, in his History of
old
Hawsted,
of an
mansion,
gives an account
havinga closet,the panelsof which were paintedwith
various

these, intended
is

and

emblems,

sentences,

doubtless

were

as

One

mottos.

hint to female

of

vanity,

who havingbegun to sketch out a female

painter,
writes
Die mihi qualiseris'1
portrait,
But
comfort, or at least a degree of comfort, had
progressedhand in hand with decoration. Tapestry,
a

"

that

is to

tapestry,which, like the

needlework

say

Bayeux tapestry of Matilda,

the decoration

partsof

had

been

used

of altars,or the embellishment

sacred edifices

of other

the
of festival,
or

occasions

on

for
solely

performanceof solemn rites,had been of much more

generalapplication
amongst the luxurious inhabitants
niture
introduced into England as furof the South, and was
hanging by Eleanor of Castile. In Chaucer's
terbury
time it was
common.
Among his pilgrimsto Canis

Prologue,in
"

An
A

And,

with other

common

haherdasher

webbe,

again:
"

I wol
To

and

dyer,and

is mentioned
"

carpenter,

a
a

give him

his chambre

tapiser."

i ainte

tapitehem

all that falles

and

to his

him

with

ful many

halles,
pure

in the

professors."

"

I will do
And

who

tapestryworker

golde,

folde."'

152

TAPESTRY.

and

nearlycovered
the

on

horse, which

To

highest branches.
church

and

the

dark

seemed

standing

left of Eve

robed

peared
ap-

gentleman

holdingsomethingin his hand which looked like a

pincushion,but doubtless was intended for a book :
he seemed
ing
pointingto the holy edifice,as if remindthem
that they were
On
the
not
yet married.
ground lay the rib, out of which Eve (who stood the
head
higher than Adam) had been formed ; both
of them
clothed in the ancient
were
very respectably
Saxon
the angelwore
breeches, which,
even
costume;
his flaming red
well with
being blue, contrasted
wings."
No

who

one

has

read

the real blunders

of

artists

and

in picturesdetailed
in
existinganachronisms
Percy Anecdotes," will think the above sketch at
all too
the
highly coloured ; though doubtless
by Queen Eleanor
tapestry hangings introduced

"

which

would

thousand

be

imitated

different forms,

and

caricatured

in

ten

in much

superiorstyle.
had attained to the highestperfection
The
Moors
in
did the Spaniards
the decorative arts, and from them
this fashion of hangings,* and "the coldness
borrow
of our
climate
(says her accomplishedbiographer,
Miss Agnes Strickland, speaking of Eleanor,) must
have made
it indispensable
to the fair daughter of
the South, chilled with the damp stone walls of English
Gothic
*

But

not

halls and
from

them

were

chambers."

would

be

derived

Of
the

art

the chillnes:J
of

painting with

figure. Hence, perhaps,

representationof the human
aud
the awkward
ungainly aspect of these, in comparison with the
a
a fear of its exciting
arabesque patterns. From
tendency to idolatry
the form of men
Mohammed
prohibitedhis followers from delineating
of
whatever
sort.
embellishments
animals
in their pictorial
or
the needle

the

153

TAPESTRY.

of these walls

we

of
description
for

idea, from

some

residence

which

feeling
cient
thoughtsuffi-

was

centuries

some

queen
1586,, Mary, the
thus

form

may

In the
year
of Scots, writes

later.

unhappy Queen

"

In

"

regard to

inclosed

with

lodging,my

my

walls, situated

Within

cennes,

with
plaister,

an

hunting seat,

chinks

is a

place

eminence,
and

this inclosure there is,like

very old

on

all the winds

consequentlyexposed to
heaven.

residence

and
of

storms
as

at Vin-

built of wood

and

all sides,with the

uprights;
intervals between
filled up,
which are not properly
the plaister
in the various
dilapidated
places.
house is about six yardsdistant from the walls,

the
and
The
and

low

so

high as

on

that the terrace

the

house

the fresh air

side is

neither the

that

so
itself,

penetrateit at

can

the other

on

The

that side.

sun

as

nor

damp,

however, is so greatthere,that every articleof furniture

with mouldiness

is covered

In
for

word, the

than
or

rooms

dungeon

even

of

for
a

in the space of four days.

for the most
part are fitrather

for the
a

"

lowest

residence

of

and
a

most

nals,
abjectcrimi-

person

of my rank,
I have
for

inferior condition.

much

onlywretched little rooms,

it not for the protection
of the
cold,that were
so
had put up, I
curtains and tapestries
which I have
could not endure it by day,and stillless by night."*
did not
The tapestries,
whether
wrought or woven,
the walls as do the hangings of modern
remain
on
of
days it was the primitiveoffice of the grooms
the chamber
to hang up the tapestrywhich in a royal
my
and

own

accommodation

progress

sent

was

Von

forward
Raumer's

with

the

purveyor

297.
Contributions,

h3

and

154

TAPESTRY.

of the chamber.
And
if these functionaries
grooms
had not, to use
a proverbialexpression, heads
on
(i

their shoulders,"
not

unlikelyto

instance

recorded

were

an

The

"

in the

hand

he

through Paris, as
from

return

leave

thence

Pope,

to

obtained
omitted

He

intentions

king

sent

to

me

this

could

had

me

to

of

taken

Paris

near

person

wards
after-

Cardinal, who
himself:

I therefore

His

answer

to

all imaginable

him

pay

need

had

he

to

Majesty's

legate,,
having an inclination to
St. Germain-en-Laye, I sent orders to Momier,
see
the keeper of the castle, to hang the halls and
chambers
with
the finest tapestry of the Crown.
Momier
executed
my orders with great punctuality,
but
with so little judgment, that for the legate's
chamber
he chose a suit of hangings made
by the
of

and

that

had

Picardy,and

after

the Pontificate

nothing

from

Rome,

powerful as

so

have

we

of Florence, who

back

came

Majesty. The
him, commanding
honours.

the

the latter

treaty of the Vervins, passed

of his

receive

perplexing blunders
Of

arise.

the Cardinal

when

great

or

by the Due de Sully.

(Henry IV.) had not yet quitted

King

Monceaux,
so

ridiculous

the

very rich, indeed, but

and mottos
representednothingbut emblems

Queen

the
were

Pope and the

ingenious.
upon

to

carry

which

Navarre;

me

him

to

Roman

Court,

as

satirical

prelateendeavoured
accept a placein the coach
The

to St.

Germain,

which

against
as
they
to

that

I refused,

vail
prewas

being
might

getting there before him, that I

in order ; with which
whether
see
everythingwas
I saw
of the
the blunder
I was
very well pleased.
keeper, and reformed it immediately. The legate
desirous

of

155

TAPESTRY.

would
a

as

have

not

formed
it

that

failed

such

to the

difference

no

sarcasms,

in

caused

upon

insult him, and

designto

as

to look

such

mistake

to have

sented
repre-

Pope. Reflectingafterwards,
religioncould authorise such
to be

all those mottos

effaced."*

centuryfa sort of hanging was

of
both
introduced, which, partaking of the nature
tapestryand paintingon the walls, was a formidable
alludes
rival to the former.
Shakspeare frequently
to these
paintedcloths." For instance, when Faldraw
staff persuades Hostess
Quickly,not only to withIn

the sixteeenth

"

her
loan

arrest, but

also

to

him

make

she says
"By this heavenlyground I tread
:

fain

further

"

both my
pawn
!
diningchambers
to

plateand

the

on,

I must

be

tapestry of my

"

P'alstaff answers
"

"

Glasses, glasses is the only drinking, and

for

the story of the

or
thy walls a pretty slight
drollery,
Prodigal,or a German
Hunting in water-work, is
worth a thousand
of these fly-bitten
tapestries.Let
it be ten pounds if thou
If it were
canst.
not for
thy humours, there is not a better wench in England
!
Go
wash thy face and draw thy action."
In another
of the play he says that his
passage
in the painted
"as
troops are
ragged as Lazarus
cloth"
There

are

at

now

Hampton Court eight large

this description;
being "The

piecesor hangings of
Triumphs of Julius Caesar,"
*

Sully'sMemoirs.

account
+

of this

GeDtvs

We

Tapestry.
Mag., 1830.

have,in

in

water-colours,

subsequent chapter,a

more

on

fu.i

156

TAPESTRY.

cloth, and

by
good preservation. They are
Andrea
Mantegna, and were valued at 1000/. at the
toons
time, when, by some
strange circumstance, the Carof Raphael were
estimated
only at 300/.
at
in the East
a
common
Tapestry was
very
when
the most
remote
era,
grotesque compositions
and
fantastic combinations
were
usually displayed
on

it.

their

in

authors

Some

suppose

that

the Greeks

took

from
these
centaurs, "c,
griffins,
Tapestries,which, together with the art of making
them, they derived from the East, and at first they
closelyimitated both the beauties and deformities
of their patterns.
At
length their refined taste
the old groimproved upon these originals
; and
tesque
ideas

of

combinations

were

confined

to the

borders

of

hanging, the centre of which displayeda more

regular and systematicrepresentation.
It has been
writers that the invention
supposed by some
of Tapestr}T,passed from
the East
into
Europe ; but Guicciardini ascribes it to the Netherlanders ; and
assuredly the Bayeux Tapestry,the
of the Conqueror'sQueen, shows that this art
work
have
must
in Europe before
acquired much perfection

the

the

time

assignedby

of the

many

Guicciardini

Crusades,

which

for its introduction

refers to

woven

is the
there.

time
bably
Pro-

Tapestry,which

until the article itself had become,

practised
from custom,
a
thing of necessity. Unintermitting
and arduous
had
been the stitchery
practisedin the
creation of these coveted
luxuries
long, very long
before the loom was
taughtto give relief to the busy
finger.
The
first ^manufactories
of Tapestry of any note
was

not

157

TAPESTRY.

those

were

Flanders, established there longbefore

of

attempted in

they were

chief of these

at

were

France

or

England.

The

Brussels, Antwerp, Oudenarde,

At
Tournay, Bruges, and Valenciennes.
well both in
and Antwerp they succeeded
Brussels
the execution
of human
the design and
figuresand
the
animals, and also in landscapes. At Oudenarde
imitated, and they did not succeed
landscape was more
well in the figure.The
other manufactories,
so
alwaysexceptingthose of Arras, were inferior to these.
The
in France
grand era of generalmanufactories
be fixed in the reignof Henry the IV. Amongst
must
others
he
his attention
devoted
to the
especially
of Tapestry,and that of the Gobelins,
manufacture
since so celebrated, was
in
begun, though futiloly,
his reign. His celebrated
minister, Sully,
was
tangled
en-

Lisle,

in these matters

somewhat

more

than

he himself

approved.
1 605.
new

Planche,

the

laid,by his order, the foundations

edifices for his

market.

care

and
new

His
from

in
Tapestryweavers,
Majesty sent for Comans

other

of the

the horseand

La

countries, and

them
the
gave
:
superintendence of these manufactures

directors

were

not

long before they made

cause
complaints,and disliked their situation, either beequal to their hopes
they did not find profits
and
siderable
conexpectations,or, that having advanced
themselves, they saw
no
sums
great probability
of gettingthem
in again. The
king got rid
them
of their importunityby referring
to me.' *
1607. "It was
to agree upon
a difficultmatter
a price
with these celebrated Flemish
tapestryworkers,which
*

Sully'sMemoirs,

vol. ii.

158

TAPESTRY.

had

into France

brought
length it was

we

At
and

that

me,

100,000/. should

establishment

about

the

great desire
have

other

some

them

not

Holland.

me

to

been

better

have

been

paid

out

was

to be

imposed

upon

ing
necessityfor satisfyMajesty made
Vienne
to sign an

His

for him,

made

another

opinion:

reading my
not

paper,

much,

too

orders

as

and

and

that

the

plete
com-

he

which

very
to

indifferent
to

me

be

quantity. Henry was

examining the work,

after

he wrote
that

if they
separately,to know
These
him.
not
thingswere

but
all in my
taste, and I was
judge of them : the price seemed

well

tion
cloth in imita-

princeordered

at

as

of

reserved

he had

for linen

This

examine

vances
to lose the ad-

have

those which

the undertakers

solicitous

would

price whatever.

of furniture

set

had

He

for

Having,' said he,

not

authorityto oblige De

of Dutch

for

and

people could

at any

acquittalto

sent

keep them,

than

of Siller y

very

'

however, there

of his

was

sum

made.'

funds

for himself:

use

to

if these

pleased

of this

expense.

an

given them

be

Henry

payment

we

great

so

in the presence

resolved

their

'

at

they

he had

to

had

never

that

me

of
and
was

exceeded

not
seen

there

cessive,
ex-

so

beautiful

his
a

must
piece of work before, and that the workman
be paid his demands
immediately." *
The
if it
manufactory languished however, even
But it was
did not become
revived
entirelyextinct.
in the reign of Louis XIV., and has since dispersed
the civilised
productionsof unequalled delicacyover

world.

Sully'sMemoirs,

vol. iii.

160

TAPESTRY.

is their glory.During
Tapestrywork in particular
the superintendence
of M. Colbert, and his successor
M. de Louvois, the malting of tapestry is said to
have been practisedto the highestdegree of perfection.

painter,Le Brun, was

appointed
chief director, and
from
his designs were
woven
The
Battles
magnificenthangings of Alexander's
The

celebrated

"

Seasons

Four

the Four

"

Elements

and

"

series of

M. de
actions of the life of Louis XIV.
principal
Louvois, during his administration, caused tapestries
in the
after the most
beautiful originals
to be made
king'scabinet, after Raphael and Julio Romano, and
teresting
Italian painters. Not the least inother celebrated
that performedby
part of the process was
the

the

rentrayeurs,

breadths
is

seam

tapestryinto one
discernible,but the whole
The

French

had

the

unite

picturethat

no

like one
appears
other considerable

at

all sank
indeed

far-famed

have

so

Auvergne, Felletin and Beauvais,

of the Gobelins,
beneath
the superiority

manufactories

which

fine-drawers, who

the

of

design.
but

or

at

town,

one

time

whose

outvied

the

of that

renown

productions gave

title to

the whole

viz.,that of Arras.
species,
Walpole gives an intimation of the introduction
of tapestry weaving into England, so earlyas the
III., "De
inquirendo de mystera
reign of Edward
don,
Shelbut usuallyWilliam
Tapiciorum, London
;
Esq., is considered the introducer of it,and he
"

allowed

an

artist,named

his manor-house
and
auter

at

in his will,dated
and

beginner

Robert

Hicks, the

use

of

Burcheston, in Warwickshire

1570, he calls Hicks

of

tapistryand

arras

"

the

only

within

161

TAPESTRY.

this realm."

At

his

which

in

tapestry on

or

are

were

of

berry-hill.
of Straw-

curiosities

the

of

notice

little further

with

meet

Gloucestershires,

and

largescale, fragments

among

We

of Oxford,

four maps

were

Warwick,

Worcester,
executed

house

this establishment.
This

beautiful

reign

of James

under

the

art

I.,and

its death

equallybeautiful
the triumph of
"2000

the

the

of

in

martyr
with

common

son.

other

James

Commonwealth.
Crane

in

the

in

year

gave

ment
the establish-

manufactory at Mortlake,

commenced

was

his

and

importantpursuitsduring

more

assist Sir Francis

to

which

and

blow

great perfection

to

of himself

patronage

It received

carried

the

in

revived

however,

was,

in

Surry,

Towards

1619.

reign, Francis Cleyn,or Klein, a

native of Rostock, in the
duchy of Mecklenburg,
tion,
was
employed in forming designs for this instituhad
which
already attained great perfection.
the

of

end

this

Charles

allowed

Rymer's

Fcedera

him
:

"

"100
Know

year,

ye that

as

appears
do

we

from

give

and

Francis

Cleyne a certain annuitie of one

hundred
pounds, by the year, during his natural
life." He
enjoyed this salarytill the civil war, and
in such favour with the king, and in such
was
tation,
reputhat on a small paintingof him he is described
II famosissimo
as
pittoreFrancesco
Cleyn, miragrant

unto

i(

colo del secolo,

gran

molto

at
Tapestry Manufacture
hobby, both of King James

and

del

re

Carlo

della

Britania, 1646."

The

stimato

of consequence

During

Charles

the

Mortlake
and

was

Prince

indeed

Charles,

patronisedby the Court.

First's romantic
expedition to
was

162

TAPESTRY.

Spain, when
Buckingham,
Sir Francis

this

am

Sir

James

writes

shall

of Kit's
Francis

will have

him

with

Wales,
"
"

the Duke

I have

settled

of

with

for my Steenie's
business, and I
speak with Fotherby, and by my

to

next, Steenie

but

of

Crane

day

and

Prince

have

an

preferment
Crane

the

ness,
of his busi-

supply in

and

desires

hasten

to

both

account

means

if my

to know

Baby

of that suit of

making

him."
Tapestrythat he commanded
The most superb hangings were
wrought here after
the designs of distinguished
painters; and Windsor
such,
Castle, Hampton Court,Whiteljall, St. James's, NonGreenwich, and other royal seats, and many
noble mansions
enriched and adorned
were
by its productions.
In the first year of his reign,Charles
was
*

indebted

,"6000

wrought
where
they still
of hangings,representingthe Five
in the palaceat Oatlands,
here, was

of

gold tapestry; Five of the Cartoons

here, and sent to Hampton Court,
A

remain.

suit

Senses, executed
and

sold in 1649

was

eightpieces in
to be

woven

for

one

for

were

try,
reign for tapestended
here, of the historyof Achilles, inIIof the royal palaces. At Lord
the

Charles

First's

hangings representingthe
;

and

there

are

several

other

Lord
Four

Seasons.

same

tapestrywrought
of

At

Vandyck,
*

Miscellaneous

and
State

sets

in

partments
com-

of the

of York,

"2500

suit

and

for the

pieceof the
silk, containing the portraits

Knowl, in Kent,
in

was

months

twelve

design. Williams, Archbishop

Keeper,paid Sir Francis Crane

same

sketched

Rubens

"270.

chester's,at Redlinch, in Somersetshire,

of

suits

for three

establishment

the

to

St.

was

Francis

Papers,

himself.

vol. i. No.

26.

At

163

TAPESTRY.

Lord

Shrewsbury's (Heythorp, Oxfordshire) are,

four pieces of tapestry from
or
were,
designs by
Vanderborght,representingthe four quarters of the
world, expressed by assemblages of the nations in
various habits and employments, excepting Europe,
which
is in masquerade, wrought in chiaroscuro.
And
at Houghton (Lord Oxford's
tiful
beauseat) were
hangings containing whole lengths of King
James, King Charles, their Queens, and the King of
with heads
in the
of the Royal Children
Denmark,
borders.
These
all mentioned
as
are
incidentally
the production of the Mortlake
establishment.
After

the

death

Sir Richard
the

civil
the

of

sold the

Crown

and

sent

was

not

Verrio

to

sketch

tract

scarce

printed in 1690,
the articles

statues,

to revive

as

the

During
property

the Restoration,
the manufacture,

designs,his intention
carried into effect.
The
guishing,
work, though lanlyn's
not
wras
altogetherextinct ; for in Mr. Eve-

very

death

though, after

II. endeavoured

Charles

One

and

seized

was

I.

Charles

premises to

this work

wars,

Crane, his brother

of Sir Francis

to

of the

intituled

"Mundus

of this manufacture

some

be

the

furnished

first acts

of

by

Muliebris,"
is amongst

gallantto

the Protectorate

his mistress.

after the

to dispose of the pictures,

king, was
ments
tapestry hangings, and other splendidorna-

of

the

riched
enroyal palaces. Cardinal Mazarine
himself with much
of this royalplunder; and
of the splendid tapestry was
some
purchased by the
Archduke
its way
found
however
Leopold. This
again to England, being re-purchasedat Brussels for

of the

164
TAPESTRY.

"3000

by

George

III.

In

Frederick,

1663
for

one

the

of

start

fair

James's

of

rich

The

Palace,

exceeding
appraised
often

"5019."

parts,

tapestry
of

other

and

the

other

"

regulating

for

"

Hampton

"8,260

herrings."

and

One

representing

this

Whitehall,
:

piece
related

the

these
of

aud

eight

parts

the

History

to

History

of

Julius

at

of

not

was

Another

Abraham.

Caesar,

sum

Court

Hampton

at

St.

Seats,

Royal

other

inventoried

were

to

belonged

which

hangings

arras

Court,

Cromwell

"30,000.
at

the

and

discouragement

tapestry

reader

tapestry

for

purchased

were

foreign

made

were

linen

of

"

packing

the

at

of

not,

"

and

England,

importation

the

of

father

"

statutes

encouragement

manufactures
the

well-intended

two

"

Wales,

of

Prince

was

appraised

165

XII.

CHAPTER

WORKED

ROMANCES

storied loves of

And

"

Pageants

and

IN

TAPESTRY.

knights and courtlydames,

triumphs,tournaments

and

games."

Rose's

It has been

Partenopex.

practiceof all antiquityto

of those subjects
work with the needle
representations
in which the imaginationand the feelings
were
interested.
The labours of Penelope,of Helen,
most
and Andromache,
and this mode
of
are
proverbial,
duals
to the actions of illustrious indivigivingpermanency
not

was

ancient
art

and

favourite

islanders

enabled

to the classical nations.

confined

them

used

to work

to weave

of the old

until the progress

the histories of their

championsin Tapestry;

recorded

"

Persians

The

and
; and

the

same

of

giants

thing is

this furniture

is

Oriental
nations,
high request among
many
The
in Japan and China.
royalpalaceof
especially
Jeddo
has profusionof the finest Tapestry; this indeed
is gorgeous,
being wrought with silk, and
adorned
with pearls,
gold,and silver.
It was
considered
from
a
one
rightregal offering
princeto another.
Henry III.,King of Castile, sent
of Tapestry
at Samarcand,
a
present to Timour
stillin

166

ROMANCES

which

WORKED

considered

was

Asiatic artists in

TAPESTRY.

IN

to

and

beauty :

the works

even

surpass

the

when

of

and
religious

of the princesof France

and
militaryorders of some
Burgundy had plunged them into a kind of crusade
againstthe Turkish Sultan Bajazet,and theybecame
in the battle of Nicopolis,the King of
his prisoners

presents to the Sultan, to induce him to

them; amongst which Tapestry representing

France

sent

ransom

the battles of Alexander

conspicuous.
Tapestrywas
but

cut

very

and
festivity
times

to

needlework

balconies

or

and

princesalone,

in the halls of

ornamental

through which
pass

of the houses

pageant

festal

or

the houses

as

of all sorts

processionwas

then

were

had, when

have

must

street

with

built

overhanging the lower

draperiesfrequentlyhung in rich folds to
and

from

of those streets

stories far

upper

the most

was

conspicuousfigureon all occasions of

rejoicing.It was
customary at these

hang

the windows

used

not

the Great

was

ground,

thus

in

length appareledand partly roofed by

and banners
somewhat
streamers
above
floating
of a suite of magnificentsaloons.
appearance

whole

"

"

the

Then

high

deck

Which
Aud

Adorned
With
But
In

When
John

more

in every

of

upon

ladies

costlyjewels and

France,

as

the

pavement

lie.

window, every door,

finest

carpeting and

the Black

the

gay

herbs

with

the

cloths

the

scented

its

signsof triumph wore,

of different dye,
shewy
walls, while Sylvan leaves in store,

street

with

Covered

the

these

ones,

the

to

fair,and

richlydrest

in gorgeous

Prince
his

drapery ;

entered

vest."

London

prisoner,the

with

outsides

King
of the

168

WORKED

ROMANCES

Madonna,
saintly

and

meek

TAPESTRY.

IN

St. Paul, many

getic
loftyand enerdalene
touchingMag-

a
many
subdued
and

produced by the unaided industryof the

Nay, the whole Bible was
pious needlewoman.
in a poem
of the fifteenth
copied in needlework
; and
century, by Henry Bradshaw, containingthe Life of
cians,
St. Werburgh, a daughter of the King of the Merwere

there

is

account

an

of many

historical than

rather

c:

of the

circumstances

gendary,"
le-

domestic

life of the time.

is that
Amongst other descriptions
of the tapestry displayedin the Abbey of Ely,on the
This
occasion
of St. Werburgh takingthe veil there.
Tapestry belonged to king Wulfer, and was brought
We
occasion.
to Ely Monastery for the
subjoin
of the stanzas

some

It

**

full

were

Of

the

"

tedyous,to

make

great tryumphes,
to the

descrypcyon

and

solempne royalte,

Belongynge
By playne declaracyon,
upon
the

But
All

herbes

Were

and

of

Well

in halles,and

with

wroughte

As

prayenge

arras
:

were

provj-syon,
;

ambyguyte,

hanged in the hall

hystoryesmanyfolde,

were

pyctures,and
and

tbeyr fete.

with precious stones

craftely,
and

the beten

moynes,J

was

not

in her cell,as

done

them

all

golde,
beholde

amonge,

all novice

yonge.

Warton.

f Anas,
the

partye

erthlyparadyse,pleasauntto

for the said

But

an

every

layd under

arras

Glysteryng as Phebus,
Lyke

and

say, withouten

golde and

Depaynted

honour

flowres,fragraunt,fayre,and swete,

strawed

Clothes

"

sotheto

feest, the

even

very

common

arras
tapestries,

for those

which

anachronism.
became
were

the

X Moynes

"

nun.

common

wrought

in existence.

Lady Werburg

After

the

name

production
for

before the looms

of

all tapestries
of

Arras

storyof Adam, there was goodly wrought,

the serpent,
of his wyfe Eve, bytwene them
they were
deceyved, and to theyr peynes brought j

The

"

160

TAPESTRY.

IN

WORKED

ROMANCES

And
How

Cayn and Abell,offeryngetheyrpresent,

The
sacryfyceof Abell, accepte full evydent :
and Tubalcain
Tuball
were
purtrayed in that place,

There

was

The

his

and

Noe

A nd

the

how

And

how

The

twelve

And

was,

and

Lorde

And

nothing thereof
ten

The

chyldren of
Pharoo

Were

gyven

The

two
to

Datan

Then

Duke

(as is tolde).
and

bolde,

flammynge

well

all his

Synaye

Moyses,
prone,

and

punysshed

for

soon

pryde were

see,

proude hoost,

table,at the Mounte

Abyron,

spyre.*

reed

how

and

fyre,

as

embost,

the

passyng
with

purtrayture,

conjectour,

and

people were

How

Israel

oblacyon.

solde,

was

brent,lefe,tree,nor

drowned,

the

in

were

wyse

were

playne

sone,

false

ruler

plagesof Egypt

The

how

in bushe

apperynge

the mount

Josephe

pycture Moyses

Our

And

was

hastely,

certayne :

man

offered in

there

Egypte, was

in

was

Kynge

hym

Egypt yonge
imprisoned,by

in all

There

his dere

again ;

came

braunche

to

peace,

of Jacob

sones

was

After

shepe

curyously

standing upon
for

by great grace.

never

returned, with

into

how

There

**

the

there

whiche

offer in sacrifice Isaac

To

crafte

made

was

raven,

dove

there

Abraham

11

of comforte

*oken

and

musyke

shyppe

forthe

Sendynge
A

of

inventours

to

idolatry

were

full

therefore,

youre."f

Joshua

leading the Israelites;the

division of the promised land ; Kyng Saull and David,
and
prudent Solomon ;" Koboas
succeeding;
"

The
And

Spyre

"

good Kynge Esechyas

so

to the

Machabus,

branch.
twig.,

and

and

his

generacyon,

dyvers other nacyon."

Youre"
I

burnt.

1 70

All

ROMANCES

WORKED

IN

TAPESTRY.

these
(l

noble

Theyr

actes, and

Freshly were
"

But

Where
The

browdred

the

over

the
best

tryumphes marcyall,
in these

hye desse, in
thre

sayd

kynges

Whereon

Dyvyded

in thre

Then

Deus

followed

"

The

and

of

to call

cessynge

Trynite,

be the
persons

in

onedeyte,"

Blessed

our

one

most

techynge, unto

faythtest

was,

Lady, the
in his figure,"
the four
ciples
curyously,"all the dis-

order

"

all,

angelicall

orders

blessed

Sabaoth, three

Apostles, eche
Evangelists wrought

Prechynge

reason

not
ierarchyses,

in

twelve

crowned

sate

hallynge hanged, as
were
wrought the nine

Dominius

royall."

pryncypall place,

Sanctus, sanctus, sanctus,

the

clothes

every

holy chyrche, for

nacyon,

their

salvacyon.'1

fessors
Martyrs then followed, right manifolde ;" Conembrodred
in ryche tyshewe and
fressely
fyne." Saintlyvirgins were brothered J the clothes
closed on the
of gold within," and the long array was
other side of the hall by
"'

"

"

"

Noble

his enemyes

Subdued

Of

Hector

Of

noble

With

were

devoted

his

the

stronge Sampson

myghty power";

slayneby

fals treason

Arthur, kynge of this regyon

other

mo,

to expresse

which

it is to

this tyme you

of many

of the

amonge."

Brothered

"

women,
needle-

subsequent tapestrylooms

Hallynge" Tapestry.

longe

giving permanence

to

proportionof

of the chief

the powers
and

by

of Troye,

many

Playnly
But

how

auncyent storyes,and

to

those

fables

Faythtes""fexts,facts.

embroidered.

which,

the very life and

formed

that

"

delightof

happy

171

TAPESTRY.

the Romances

in

exhibited

as

IN

WORKED

ROMANCES

of

Chivalry,

ancestors

our

in

season

brightFancy bent to reason

;
of our stories,
the spirit
When

Ere

Filled

the mind

with

of creatures

Told

glories
;

unseen

of the

air,

fairies,goblinsrare,
Spirits,

Guarding

tenderest care."

fables, says Warton,

These

repeatedat
the

were

with

man

the festivals of

objectsof
apartments were

constant

walls of their

not

were
our

only perpetually

ancestors,

but

their

The
eyes.
very
clothed with romantic

history.
We

the

mentioned

have

historyof

Alexander

in

Tapestryas forming an important part of the peace

offeringof the king of France to Bajazet,and probably
did not possess a
there were
few princeswho
this subject; a most
suit of tapestryon
important
and consequentlya desired one
for
in romance,
one
the loom.
There

an

seems

of

the Romance

distortion, the

bearingneeded
imaginationto
of the best
like

whose

one

of

and

in the writers
propensity
Chivalryto exaggerate, almost
innate

achievements

of those

whose

of
to

heroic

of diction, or wild flow of

pomp
illustrate it. Thus Charlemagne, one
no

greatestof

appears in romance
thirst for slaughterit requiresmyriads
"

quench.
Arthur, on the contrary,a very (ifhistorytell
sort of a man,
truth)a very so-so
having not one
tithe of the intellect or the magnanimity of him to
is invested in
whom
have justreferred
Arthur
we
"

Paynims

men,

"

to

"

"

i2

172

ROMANCES

with

WORKED

halo

IN

of interest

TAPESTRY.

and

beauty which
is perfectly
almost imposfascinating;and it seems
sible
oneself of these impressions
to divest
and
to
look upon him onlyin the unattractive
lightin which
historyrepresents him.
romance

initiated in

not

person

that the real actions

Greece,

the

the

but

"

of Persia,

conqueror

great Darius,

would

romance

of Alexander

of

suppose
the subjugatorof
the

captor of the

protector of his

generous

him.
immortalize
family might sufficiently
By no
He
cuts
means.
a considerable
figure in many
romances
exclusively
appropriatedmore
; but in one,
world
The
he
himself."
to his exploits,
surpasses
was
conquered : from north to south, and from cast
his sovereigntywas
to west
acknowledged ; so he
forthwith flew up into the air to bring the aerial potentates
But this experiment not
to his feet.
swering,
anhe descended
to the depths of the waters
better success
with much
; for immediatelyall their
bal
inhabitants, from the whale to the herring,the cannishark, the voracious pike, the majestic
sturgeon,
the delicate
the lordlysalmon, the rich turbot, and
"

"

"

trout, with

all their kith, kin, relations, and

the lobster, the crab, and

"

crowd
her

The

round

sounds

him

and

seas

to do

the muscle,
all their

with

him

his feet, and

pearl at

allies,

homage
the coral

finny drove
:

the

"

oyster lays

boughs meekly

in addition
subjection.Doubtless
if not
these exploits,
to the legitimate battles
intimated
were
by symbols in the
fullydisplayed,
wave

in token

of

"

"

Tapestry.
The

Tale

of

Troy

was

very favourite

subjectfor

WORKED

ROMANCES

IN

173

TAPESTRY.

noble mansions,
found
in many
Tapestry,and was
It has indeed been conjectured,
in France.
especially
Iliad had
and on sufficient grounds, that the whole
series of hangings.
been wrought in a consecutive
Though during the earlypart of the middle ages
of Troy
Tale
Horn
himself
lost, still the
was
t
divine" was
kept alive in two Latin works, which in
1260
formed
the basis of a prose romance
by a
"

Sicilian.
The
the

himself
great original

companion

but

not

also of the

Flemish
This
rood
the

onlyof

fair and

however,

the studious

had
and

fashionable, while

become

learned,

yet

the

of their

popularity.
subjectformed part of the decoration of HolyHouse, on the occasion of the marriage of Henry
Seventh's
daughter to James, King of Scotland
looms

in 1 503.

We

are

zenith

in the

were

told in

ancient

an

record, that the

hangingeofthe queene'sgret chammer

represented
the ystory of Troye toune,
that the king's grett
chammer
had
table, wer
one
was
satt, hys chamerlayne,the grett sqyer, and many others, well served;
the which
chammer
was
haunged about with the
story of Hercules, together with other ystorys."
And
at the same
solemnity, in the hall wher the
satt in lyke as in the other,
wer
qwene's company
wich was
an
haunged of the historyof Hercules."
The
tragicand fearful story of Coucy's heart
gave rise to an old metrical English Romance, called
the
Knight of Courtesy and the Lady of Faguel.'
It was
dent,
entirely
representedin tapestry. The inci"

"

'

true

about
"

one,

1 180 ; and

Some

hundred

on
was

which
thus
and

it
:

was

founded, occurred

"

odd

years

since, there

was

174

ROMANCES

in France

WORKED

TAPESTRY.

IN

Captain Coucy, a gallantgentleman

of an ancient extraction, and keeper of Coucy Castle,
fell
which is yet standing,and in good repair. He
in love with a young
gentlewoman, and courted her
There
for his wife.
was
a
reciprocallove between
them
; but her parents understandingof it,by way
of prevention,
they shuffled up a forced match 'twixt
her

and

one

Monsieur

one

Faiell who

great heir

was

tent,
Captain Coucy hereupon quitted France in disconin Hungary against the
and went
to the wars
he received
Turk
mortal wound, not far
a
; where
guished
from Bada.
Being carried to his lodging,he lanfor some
days ; but a little before his death
of his, that
spoke to an ancient servant
and truth ; but
proofs of his fidelity
many
he

had

great business

conjured him

by

all

then

to take

in

an

earthen

to

put the

powder

wrist, which

hair, and

the
did
to

he

all the

box
as

the

given him
speed he could

France;

had

and

because

he

knew

his

finding him

the

opened
and put

box, with

that

on

his left
Faieli's

with

to

her;

rites of burial, to

The

to Monsieur

him,

who

deliver

old servant

him, and

day

one

blood

own

France, and

to

commanded

he

That

then

about

Faiell.

coming
suddenly met

he

powder, together with

with

written

he

and

of Mademoiselle

had

his master

and

lock

Mademoiselle

to

house, he
him

long

worn

to be

powder

handsome

it among

he had

after

make

was

put

little note
and

in

to

now

was,

of his breast,

out

pot,,to be baked

of hair he had

bracelet

get his body

his heart

had

with, which

do, which

to

means

after his death, he should

and

him

intrust

to

he

so

went

Faieli's
examined

vant,
Captain Coucy'sserin his
and faltering
timorous
was

17G

WORKED

ROMANCES

I record

whilst
slaughterers,
witness

to

ghosts

of

the

grislyphantoms,
his
Paynims, whom

infidel

down,

as

even

reaper's sickle, till

strode

his achievements

his deed, ye

mowed

sword

TAPESTRY.

IN

the

redoubtable

deep in bodies
slaughteredfoes ! *

with

ye bloody
Christian
the

falls beneath

corn

breast

! Bear

champion

fifteen

over

And

vered
co-

acres

all this from

zeal !

Christian

"

faith of Christ

In

wicked

The

So

14

to subdue.

power

the

passed he

true

of infidels,

laws

sought by

He

Christian

of

seas

Greece,

help the Emperour to his right,

Against the mighty Soldan's host
To

puissantPersians for to fight:

he did slayof Sarazens

Of

Where

heathen

And
And

had

terrible too

Most
He

Being
And

thither

brought

He

having

Feats
In

of

"

Fifteen
; and

Saracens

strange

of dead
breast."

men,
"

Tyre also,

in

on

view

fightto

Soldan's

away

host,

ambassage
his head

sent,

with him,

in his tent."

slain him

and

furious

wherever

Ellis,vol. ii.

sundry heathen

covered
were

the

his sword

lands,"

at home

progress

were

acres
so

of

arms

his beneficent

note

Colbron.

his

passing by
i(

into the

went

man,

dear,

knight,

famous

king

Almain,

And

cousin

likewise he did pursue,

death

To

many

Doughty

to name,

that

Ezkeldered

"

Or

the Soldan's

slew

WTho

Pagans

with

the

strokes
had

of

"

bodies
Sir

of

Guy,

reached, rose

as

slaughtered
that

high

the
as

pile
his

WORKED

ROMANCES

11

like in

in the

Hangs

Call'd the dun

Some

Which
As

did

And

both

all the

him

at

we

country

Wras

oppress,
:"

annoy

doughty as he was, as the

subdued
by the influence of the
suppliantto the gentle Phillis,
all

the earth to

fulfilher

knight for lady'ssake

So tost in love, as I, Sir Guy ;
For Phillis fair,
that Lady bright,
ever

As
She

ever

Ere

me

leave

valiant

made

knight with

Or, afterwards

me

view

All clad in grey

His

voyage
that

him

from

as

try

shield and

grant

far and

venture

in

eye ;

myself to

that her love she would

Who

Unto

with

beheld

man

gave

The

"

beasts

sore

his devotion

to prove
"

and

men

pilgrimof love, as
tender passion,a
and readyto compass
and

espy.

dragon in the land,

also did in flight
destroy,

Which

look

strange they may

the

He

Or

looker's view,

every

wondrous

And

heath,

yet
lie,

doth

monument

unto

cruel beast,

in Warwick

of her bones
a

do

peoplehad opprest;

many

Still for

yet,

of Dunsmore

cow

length.

also slew

he

wild and

monstrous

Which

cityof

heath

Dunsmore

and

lyej
to this day
Coventry.

of his shield bones

One

was,

in breadth

the castle there

Within

"

never

in Warwick

of his bones

Some

On

England

hugeness both

For

"

slay
passingmight and strength;

of

boar

The

177

forest he did

In Windsor
A

TAPESTRY.

IN

spear,

me,

near."

"

Pilgrimsort,
her he

did

take,

blessed,holy land,

For Jesus Christ,his Saviour's sake."

i3

wishes,

178

ROMANCES

recal
Lastly,
Danes
scarce

king to

and

per force

provided

great

giant, and

himself

and

to

with

was

which

proposal
English
But
pion,
cham-

Danish
to

came

cart-load

of

the

he

ere

hooks

iron

burnt, and

acceded

less
ruth-

there

Winchester,

as

Colbrand

great clubs with knobs

lances

or

the fierce and

by the
struggleby singlecombat.

the

were

was

far

as

TAPESTRY.

land, and

our

plundered

decide

the odds

castle

or

not

made,

was

ravaging

were

they had

IN

the time when

we

town

WORKED

he

combat

of Danish

axes,

iron, squared barrs of steel

wherewith

sary
adver-

pullhis

to

to him.

On

the

and

other

hand
the

unhappy,

circumstance

he

as

the

"

reward

knight of

to the
a

Guy,
The

Earl

monarch

of

was

his

abroad

couch,

and

sleepless
pondered the
St. John

on

champion forthcoming,
Hants
had been promised
Roland, the

was

Warwick,
was

Athelstan

victor.

thousand,

of the nation,

"

king
lay on

Baptist'snight had no
even
though the county of
as

English

Heraud,

dead

and

the

;
was

gone

perplexedand

valiant

most

the

pride

great and valiant

on

pilgrimage.

sorrowful

but

an

angel appeared to him and comforted him.

In conformitywith the injunctions
of this gracious
the king, attended
by the Archbishop
messenger,
of Canterbury and the Bishop of Chichester, placed
himself
at the north
gate of the city(Winchester)
at the hour of prime. Divers
grims
poor people and pilthe rest appeared
entered thereat, and among
of noble visage and stalwart frame, but wan
a
man
withal, pale with abstinence, and macerated
son
by reaof journeying barefoot.
His
beard was
rably
venea
long and he rested on a staff; he wore

WORKED

ROMANCES

IN

179

TAPESTRY.

pilgrim'sgarb, and on his bare and venerable head

was
Bending low,
strung a chapletof white roses.
he passed the gate, but the king warned
by the
him
to him, and entreated
vision, hastened
by his
love for Jesus
of his pilChrist, by the devotion
grimage,
and for the preservationof all England,
"

to do

the

battle with
underwent

After

the combat,

solemn

giant."

The

Palmer

and

was

processionto

the

thus

jured,
con-

victorious.

Cathedral,

and

therein, when
thanksgiving
God

and

to
he offered his weapon
of the Church, before the High.

the

patron
Altar, the pilgrimwithdrew, havingrevealed himself
to

but the

none

of secrecy.
and

He

unknown

of his

deeds
to

have

And

with
of

Table,

were

that

as

he

palmer

cave

was

hew'd

grim,
holy pilslayer,
and

then

alone."

unusual

an

house,

poor,

himself

they all,at
giftedwith a

of

conclusion
romance

to

turned

least all of Arthur's

life

mits
her-

Round

striking
development
combativeness, their profound piety
their career
might not improbably
adage of these days
very common

give rise to a
regardingsinners
here

"

all the heroes

of the organ of
at the end
of

But

wholesale

the

rock of stone

craggy

this at all

butchery;
and

and

been

his hand

lived like

Within

Warwick,
at the hands

alms
meek

pledge

"

Where

was

than

solemn

contemplating
solitary
placehard by
we

Out

of

took
disguise,

other

none

towards

course

"

"

Nor

his

lady for,reader, this

own

retired

bent

in his

was

whose

that under

king,and

and
a

very

saints.

theme

for

! a
Tapestry-workers

180

ROMANCES

real
the

WORKED

TAPESTRY.

IN

original,
genuine Englishromance
only piecesnow extant be, or may

from

the

still there

French,

though

for

be, translated

concurring
that
the original,often
circumstances
to
prove
ancient metrical English
an
was
quoted by Chaucer
That
it is difficult to find who Sir Guy was,
one.
in fact, to prove that there ever
Sir Guy
or
a
was
that to
at all,is nothing to the purpose
we
; leave
their
antiquarians,and
Guy of
musty folios.
Warwick
far

as

Lord

well known

was

from

many

west

to east,

even

Jerusalem, where, in Henry the Fourth's

Beauchamp

kindly received

was

he

high stations, because

"

One
in

are

shadowy

so

"

Castle, which

valued
made

it

of
arras

contained

those

from

Guy."

subjectwhich

was

the

II.
by King Richard
hangings in Warwick
story of Guy Earl of

togetherwith the Castle of Warwick

Holland, Earl
possessions,to Thomas

Warwick,"
other

And

Kent.

to this lord

in

so
}'ear 1398, was
pieceof furniture, that a

suit of

as

time,

the

Castle, before

distinguishedand
specialgrant was
conveying that

renowned

this attractive

tapestry on

Warwick

descended

was

ancestor,

by

as

in the restoration

of forfeited

and
of

property

after his

imprisonment, these hangings

in the patent of King
are
particularlyspecified
Henry IV., dated 1399.
the tapestrywas
the Castle wherein
And
hung
was

worthy

of the

first buildingon
with

our

overthrown

the site

Saviour, and

by

it had

heroes

was

sheltered.

supposed

was

to

be coeval

called Caer-leon

the Picts and

The

Scots, it lay

in

almost
ruins

WORKED

ROMANCES

till Caractacus
founded

church

himself

built

the

to

181

TAPESTRY.

IN

and

manor-house,

honour

of St. John

the

Roman
fort, and
a
Baptist. Here was afterwards
here again was
Pictish devastation.
A
cousin of
a
King Arthur rebuilt it, and then lived in it Artha
gal,first Earl of Warwick,
Knight of the Kound
Table ; this British title was
equivalentto Ursus in
Latin, whence
Arthgal took the Bear for his ensign :
and
of his, a worthy progenitorof our
a
successor
valiant Sir Guy, slew a mighty giantin a duel ; and
because
this giant'sdelicate weapon
was
a tree pulled
up by the roots, the boughs being snagged from it,
"

the Earls
a

of

Warwick,

staff of

ragged

of the

successors

silver in

sable

victor,bore

shield

for their

cognisance.
We

told

are

"

that,
"

And

And

With

And

these

bring.

England straighthe
and

him,

unto

of his round

most

came

able

resorted

that

were

the

did

home

fiftygood

Knights,

Of

great victoryeswanne,

arms

conquest
into

Then

began,

approved king,

was

force of

By

first in court

Arthur

When

table."

renowned

Syr Perceval,
du Lac, Syr Ywain,
Syr Tristan, Syr Launcelot
of Leonnoys,
Syr Gawain, Syr Galaas, Syr Meliadus
Sir Ysaie, Syr Gyron, "c.
"c, and their various
and

wondrous

achievements

series

of tales which

of the

Round

of each

are

Table."

tale is

episodes,in

were

were

known
Of

which

very

often

the

as

"

ten

the

Romances

the main

course

interruptedby

into

woven

thousand

subject
varied

originalobject

182

ROMANCES

WORKED

Then

entirelylost sight of.

seems

of these

of many

Romances,

One

their

the

one,

Roman

du

Saint

incident,

which

to

the

least

are

miraculous.
these

of

scarce

of which

Tapestry,

which

of

want

genealogies

and

into

Greal,"

say

their

principalpassages

frequentlywrought

were

an

and

geography

marvellous

of the most

Romances,

their

the constructien

rather

or

construction, is marvellous;
interminable., and

TAPESTRY.

IN

the

was

is founded

upon

peculiar,but
true
as
Holy

very

considered
perhaps once
St. Joseph of Arimathcea, a very important
Writ.
the
in many
romances,
having obtained
personage
hanap, or cup from which our Saviour administered
the wine to his disciples,
caught in the same
cup
was

the

blood

the

Cross.

flowed

which

had

he

After

from

his

wounds

first achieved

when
various

on

ventures,
ad-

undergone an imprisonment of fortyin England with the

two years, St. Joseph arrives
of which
miracles
sacred
numerous
cup, by means
the Round
Table, and
are
performed; he prepares
and his Knights all go in quest of the hanap,
Arthur
and

which
had

by

solemn

short

across

forest, or
or

senses,

must

sinner.

devote

they

however,

symbol ; though
-stream

of

circumstance,

their

odours
while

but

lives to

indeed

oftentimes

the lonesome

two,
a

have

unearthlystrains
as

the

of Paradise

wandering

see

soft ray

of

the

or

would
would
and

its

done,
of

ever

wild,

make

All

lives either, if all recorded

None,

true.

to

vow

this

and

air,

unaccountable,

us

fallen into the hands

most

not

to

some,

them

the

very;
reco-

and
be

sacred

lightwould
dark pathless

float

on

entrance

woeworn

the

the
the

knight

181

of

ROMANCES

WORKED

VIII.

Henry

IN

TAPESTRY.

preserved

are

British

the

in

Museum.*
These
In

are

the

are

from
re-copied

the

of

tapestry

originaland
there

of them

some

Tower

ancient

most

seat

of
of

Warton

"

London,

the

monarchs,

our

recited, Godfrey of Bulloign; the Three

Kings of Cologne ; the Emperor Constantine; St.

cules
George; King of Erkenwald; the History of Herand Honour
; the Triumph of Divinity;
; Fame
Ahasueras
Juno ; St.
Esther
and
; Jupiter and
Kings of
George ; the Eight Kings ; the Ten
France

the Birth

of

our

Lord

Duke

Joshua

the

History of King David ; the Seven Deadly

of
Sins ; the Richc History of the Passion ; the Stem
Jesse ; Our
Lady and Son ; King Solomon ; the
of Canony ; Melcagcr ; and
the Dance
of
Woman
Biche

Maccabee.
Durham

At

Place

the

were

Citie

of

Ladies

(a

allegoricalRomance) ; the Tapestrie of

digal
and of Troy ; the City of Peace ; the ProThebes
Son; Esther, and other piecesof Scripture.
Castle the Siege of Jerusalem
At Windsor
sueras
; Ahathe
Siege of Troy ; and
; Charlemagne ;
Hawking and Hunting.
At Nottingham Castle, Amys and Amelion.
Woodstock
the tapestrieof CharleAt
magne.
Manor,
Frence

palace in Hertfordshire, King

Arthur, Hercules, Astyages,and Cyrus.
At

At
and

the

More,

Richmond,
Vice

Among

the

of Sir Bevis, and

arras

Virtue

fighting.
the rest

we
*

Had.

have
MSS.

also Hannibal,
1419.

Holofc-

ROMANCES

WORKED

and

Romulus

rneSj

Many

of

these

Greenwich,
and
unknown

other

royal
as

such.

IN

Bemus,

repeated

were

Oatlands,
seats,

and

^neas,

subjects

some

185

TAPESTRY.

Bedington
of

which

nah.
Susan-

at

minster,
West-

Surrey,

in

are

now

186

CHAPTER
NEEDLEWORK

"

Time

was,

Save

their

As

and

feathers, fringeand

when
own

yet black

Manifold

velvets,silkes,or

these

Embrodery,

breeches

before

the

a
as

thousand
now,

of the
{(

last

multitude

happy

the eastern
would

told

to write

that

seem

that

the

devotion
"

of

for his purpose,

stedfast
out one

"

is the

all that

of

the

the
the

to him

of

make

same

polished
whirligig

more

beacon
has

who
who

globe

turban

turncoat

him

is

were

"

pole-starand

from

men,

in the

much

that

Stultz,"

parts of

for her
are

from

cut

new

of

and

mode

in

of

parts

in the

case

none.

breeches"

black

of

had

Cowper.

the vest

years ago are

this is not the

and

It

uniform, and

Europe, where
ycleptFashion,"

maniac,

for use,

ideal

in many

of

parts

"

Hall.

Bp.

"

varieties

that beau
"

is

"

the

were

gracefuland becoming
For
invented.
though
costume

not."

were

I.

lawne,

lace."

clothingsumptuous or
painted skins,our Sires

indeed

material

PART

COSTUME."

IN

neede

What

XIII.

the

is

magnificent
reg'larbang-up-go" from
metropolis.
brated
celeEngland is peculiarly
"

at Fashions

shrine

for

we

time
Englishman, endevoring somesundrie platformes
attire,made
our
of them
to find
supposing by some
ground whereon to build the summe
an

NEEDLEWORK

of his discourse.

he had

of worke
peece
his travel!, and

end

himselfe

gave over
picture of a naked

the

liked, sith he

this

called

he

shewed

void of

iudgement, sith

himself

from

even

of

together,

while

anie

herein

kind

no

Certes

Englishman*

an

writer

nation,

find

could

garment that could pleasehim

and

in the

sheares

paireof

difficult

he

in hand,

taken

gave

what

saw

orator

he should

as

he

(likean

piece of cloth in the other, to the

shape his apparellafter such fashion

hand, and

one

he

onelydrue

whome

unto

the end

in

exercise)when

long without

man,

But

187

COSTUME.

IN

this

be

altogether
follie of our
phantasticall

the

not

the courtier

to

carter, is such,

to the

apparellliketh vs longerthan the

first garment is in the wearing,if it continue
so
long
that

no

and

be

laid aside, to

not

receive

And

these

as

world

it is

the

excesse

brauerie

to

fashions

and
the

the

and

insomuch

nothing is

"

inconstancie
In

also, it is

women,

the

to

in time

housewives
and
"

Thus

it is

and

is in all
in

degrees;
England

the

shoo)

now
men

lamented, that

to be

most

lightnesseof

transformed

are

onlie, is
matrons.

men,

and, finallie,

constant

and

now

come

become

to

from

our

the

men

cap

staringattire as
but light
for none

such

supposed meet

was

sober

become

exceed

verie

past

the

of attire.

they doo now far

(who nevertheless
even

the follie that

likewise

and

pompe

the varietie

more

so

the curiositie ;

and

vanitie; the

change and

that

diverse,

are

the costlinesse

see

the ficklenesse

than

trinket

other

some

devised.

newlie
"

of

forme

passe,

habit

that

transformed into

for

women

monsters"

chast

are

188

NEEDLEWORK

IN

COSTUME.

This

ever-revolvingwheel is still turning; and

all-important now
is the
that one
half of
so
mode
the world is fullyoccupiedin providing for the personal
embellishment

a
"

could

and

return

of

the

other

and

half

of
contemplatethe possibility
the primitivesimplicityof our
ancient
look in the same
must
pictureon one half
useless
the face of creaas
a drug on
tion.
as

to

sires,"we

of the world

we

"

Why, what a desert would it be

dyers,fullers, cleaners, spinners,weavers,
mercers

and

silk-men

and manufacturers, cotton-lords

milliners, haberdashers

tailors and

men,

needle

makers,

The

live

"

woman

The

modistes,

and

fustian-

ladies

pin and

manufacturers,

brush
would

and

over

pass

have

gentlemen nothing

toilette"
if ladies

their devoirs

are

to

embellir

pour

practiceits

nothing

to

le monde,"

duties

his
Indeed

to

put

out

and

important

and

arrangement

sables, the
makes

energies

of

fashion.

He

with
a

many
modish

solace them.

to

is the very zest of life with both ;

successful in the results of
more

it, it is because

as

"

which

and

authorityit has been said,

grave
is an
that delightsin the toianimal
lette;")

the

and

printers,

for; (foron

that

"

We

and

comb

"c.
jewellers,

all

were

makers, mantuamakers

habit

professors,
exploded ?

corset

selves
them-

and

"

nous

not

less zeal,

valet

faites

sommes

because

gentlemen

devotion,

duity
assi-

or

when
testify
ting
contemplapatron'sdaily heap of "failures."
can

of view the

cares

attached

more

obvious,

to the

due

of coats, waistcoats, and

science

heavy
the
should

of

"

claims

Cravatiana"
on

the

weighty,
selection

indispen-

alone

is

one

time, talents, and

thorough-going gentleman
be thoroughly versed in all

of

its

IN

NEEDLEWORK

varieties
The

The

"

Royal George
The

Military:

Tie

Hibernian

The

Tie

one)

of these

Though
the Yankee
Ball

Tie

Tie, "c. "c.

Indian

The

Tie

Room

Bow

Corsican

The

ing
Hunt"

original

alone

"

Mail

The

Coach

Tie

"c.
their numberless

and

to

the

requiresthe greatestpractice. It
talented"

offshoots,

the
originality,
and
most
exquisite,

claim

laysmost
is considered

one

Tie

(the

Plain

The

Eastern

Tie

Osbaldiston

The

"

The

Room

The

Yankee

The

Ball

139

COSTUME.

is thus

described

professor:
"The
and
cloth, of virgin white, well starched
folded
to the proper
depth, should be made to sit
the neck, neither too tightnor
on
easy and graceful
loose ; but with a gentlepressure, curving inwards
of the chin, down
the
extension
from
the further

by

"

to the

throat
This

should

from

under

horizontal

in

dent

which,
should

the chin, there

secured

front, are

be another

more

additional
What

means

world

in broad

braces,

or

folds

behind

the

be

of wit and

taste

would

what

"

lost to

which
disguises
simplicityof
talent

It has

one.

effect to the neckcloth."

fancyand

would

the

slight

liant
piece of white tape. A brilbroach
made
of to secure
or
use
pin is generally
the crossing,as
well as to give an
effectually

by

of

to

diately
imme-

more

the former

above

just

of the neck.

slightdent, extending

between

ear,

middle

tie; the ends, crossingeach other

back,

of

pointfor

be the
each

in the

dent

centre

under

no

"

invention

the world,
"

we

wear

form
be

at

and

were

"

if those
reduced

material

discount,for

what

zeal and

of

mine

"

!
want

fund

ability

troublesome
to their

Industry

old
and

of materials

190

NEEDLEWORK

IN

COSTUME.

displaythemselves ; and money would

would
declaim
be such
a
on
drug, that politicians
the miseries of being without
debt.
merce,
Coma national
of its most
in many
important branches, would
be exploded; the "manufacturing districts" would
be annihilated
interest
would,
agricultural
; the
be at a
consequentlyand necessarily,
very low
ebb ;" and
the
New
World," the magnificentand
imperialempress (that is to be) of the whole earth,
of those
minute
might sink again to the embraces
whereon

to

"

"

"

"

and

wonderful

artificers from

at first proceeded

the coral insects

"

she

I suppose,

whom,
;

for who

would

individual
preferences,
wishes, must merge in the generalgood of the human
however
their own
race
paintedskins might
; and
suffice our
sires," clothing, sumptuous," as well
want

cotton

No,

Selfish

no.

"

ic

"

"

as

To

then,
whom

to

"

printersand
and

ourselves.

are

the

fullers, the

are

the

spinners

and

mercers,

modistes, and
lords and

cotton

and

decorate

must

whom,

cleaners
and

use,"

for

fustian

and

weavers,

and

milliners

silk-men

dyers, the

and

dashers,
haber-

turers,
manufac-

mantua-makers

men,

indebted
for that nameless
professors,
finish and appropriateness,which
grace, that exquisite
gives to all their productionstheir charm and their
To
the Needlewoman,
?
assuredly. For
utility
corset

"

the

though
Island

raw

have

materials

shippedat New York,

the Liverpoolbroker and

and
to

merchant, and turned

and

been

spun

placed in

and

woven,

and

over

have

been

and

manufacturer,

printed,and

custody of the warehouseman,

the shopkeeper of what good
"

signed
con-

chester
sold to the Man-

to the

bleached

the

the shelf of

"

Sea

at

grown

or

would

on

it

192

NEEDLEWORK

intertwined

and

IN

from

the

COSTUME.

waistband

to

shoe,

the

weighed down by the burthen

wealth.
of his own
Wrought silver did excellently
well for those who could
not produce gold; and for
those who
possessed not either preciousmetal, and
who yet felt they might as well be out of the world
until he seemed

almost

"

fashion," latteen

of the

out

as

aye, and

cords

pressedinto
For

shoes.

to

the

baron,

To

dress."

of

less

were
costlydescription,
service to tie up the crackoives, or piked
in that day, as in this,
the squire endeavours
outshine
the knight, the knight the
the earl, the earl the king, in
baron
complete the outrageous absurdityof
even

"

these shoes, the upper

of

them

were

to which

describingthe

when

refers

parts of

church-window,

chains, silken cords,

dress

tion
cut in imita-

fashion

Chaucer

Absalom,

of

the

Parish

He"

Clerk.
*

Had

Despite the
Pope, and the
fashion
And

'is windowes

Paul

of

decrees

on

his shose."

councils, the

declamations

was

corven

in vogue

of the
near

bulls

of

Clergy,this

three

the

lous
ridicu-

centuries.

the

worn
party-colouredhose, which were
the same
about
time, were
a
fittingaccompaniment
We
feel some
for the crackowes.
in realising
difficulty
the idea that gentlemen,only some
half century
dressed in the gay and showy habiliments
ago, really
which
indicative only of a footman
it
are
now
; but

is

the
"

difficult to

more

fact, that the

fool

can

believe, what

most

absurd

was

costume

nevertheless
in which

"

be decked
can
now
by profession
hardly compete in absurditywith
of

beau

or

on

the

belle of the fourteenth

the
outre

the

stage,
tume
cos-

century.

IN

NEEDLEWORK

The
or

shoes

female,

referred

have

we

divided

were

COSTUME.

the

to:

]Q3

garments, male

in the middle

down

the whole

lengthof

the person, and one

half of the body was
in one
colour, the other half in the most

clothed

opposite

could

that

one

fitted close

selected.

be

The

men's

the

shape ; and while one

in flaming yellowor sky-blue,
leg and thighrejoiced
the other blushed
of Gaunt
in deep crimson.
John
is portrayed
in a habit, one
half white, the other a
dark blue; and
Mr. Strutt has an
engraving of a
garments

assembled

group

of the

one

on

the

to

Louis

to

on

figureshas
The

other.

the Good,

memorable

boot

occasion, where

on

of

Dauphiness
Duke

leg and a shoe

Auvergne, wife

one

of Bourbon,

born

1360, is

paintedin a garb of which one half all the way down

and the
is blue, powdered with
gold fleurs-de-lys,
other
half to the waist is gold,with a blue fish or
doubtless)on it,and from the
dolphin(a cognizance,
waist to the feet is crimson, with white
naments
fishy orsleeve is blue and
gold, the other
; one
and gold.
crimson
"

"

In addition
their

dressed
to

wear

to

support the

sort

and

furbelows.

the

"horned

old authors.

kept

her

queen
kind.

and

and

heads

so

absurd

that

horn

they were

these

are

head-dresses1'

so

what

make

Vincennes,

all the

wider,

a.d.

doors

to admit

her ladies,which

obliged

of feathers

of

to

in

Isabel of Bavaria

1416, it
the

was

cessary
ne-

palace both

the head-dresses
were

by

meant

are

often referred

It is said that, when

at

women

side, in order

each

on

superstructure

enormous

And

garments, the

high

of curved

court

to

higher

to these

of the

all of this horned

194

NEEDLEWORK

This

high

the East

from

had

bonnet

modifications, ever

been

under

worn,

the

since

the time

in

COSTUME.

IN

fashion

of the

various

brought

was

Crusades.

Some

sugar-loafform, three feet in height ;

still
and
but
some
cylindrical,
very high. The
modistes
of that day called this formidable
French
head-gear bonnet a la Syrienne. But our author
restrained
in one
says, if female vanitybe violently
point,it is sure to break out in another ; and Romish
anathemas
having abolished curls from shading fair
the more
attention
gear,
brows, so much
was
paid to headof

were

and

caps increased
every year
and
made
in
size, and were

that the bonnets

most

the

awfullyin height
form
of crescents, pyramids, and

tremendous
des

Juvenal
in his

ou

chronicler

patheticlamentation
"

l'huis d'une
de coste

tournassent

passer :" that

ladies were
young
pu

and

side old ladies

et

par

passer

qu'ellesse

and

old

monstrous

such

of

damoysellesde
grandes oreilles si larges,que

elles n'eussent

high

VI.

les dames

vouloient

fallait

the

this

of Charles

avoient

coste, deux
elles

makes

Ursins

Histo/y

Et

"

that

dimensions,

horns

chacun

quand

chambre

il

baisassent,

et

is,

"

on

every

with

seen

(or horns), that

such

when

they
obliged perforce
they could not

ears

they were
to
sideways,or
stoop and crouch
the
on
pass." At last a regularattack was made
high head-gear of the fifteenth century by a popular
wanted

monk,
so

enter

to

in

his

room

at

sermons

lamented
pathetically
of such

contrition, made
in the

Ndtre
the

fashion, that
auto

public squares

Dame,

sinfulness
the

in which

and

he

ties
enormi-

ladies,to show

their

dafes of their Syrian bonnets

and market-places
the
as
; and

NEEDLEWORK

195

COSTUME.

IN

against them all over Europe,

followed.
the example of Paris was
universally
by
Many attempts had previouslybeen made
fulminated

Church

preachersto effect this alteration. In the

in the
province of
previous century a Carmelite
Bretagne preachedagainstthis fashion, without the
zealous

to annihilate

power

the

change

had

coiffures

nicler,
sooner/' says the chrohe departedfrom one
district,than the

and

ever

huge

to

was

No

"

sermon.

who,
damoyselles,

drawn

than

of the

particularshape

after every
"had
dames

it : all that the ladies did

in their

horns, shot them

for nowhere

like

frightenedsnails,
out again longer
(so called,

the hennins

were

gehinntn,incommodious,) larger,
or
more
proud, than in the cities through
pompous
which the Carmelite
had passed.
All the world was
reversed and disordered
totally
by these fashions,and above all thingsby the strange
abbreviated

from

"

accoutrements

the heads

on

portentous time, for

their foreheads

some

carried

with

from
sharppoints,like staples,
streamed
long crapes, fringedwith

Alas, alas ! ladies, dames,

ners."

was

on
huge towers
still higher caps,
the top of which
gold,like ban1

ell high ; others

an

It

of the ladies.

demoiselles

and

of

do we
importance in those days ! When
and State interfering
hear, in the present times"of Church
*
to regulatethe patternsof their bonnets?"
were

It is
absurd

no

wonder

should

Who

can

so

very

call forth animadversion

quarters. Thus
"

that fashions

wrote

see

with

inventions

Petrarch

which
*

the

from

in 1366

patiencethe

extreme

various

"

monstrous,

people

of

Lady's Magazine.
k2

and

our

tastical
fan-

times

190

NEEDLEWORK

invented

have

their

Who

persons

behold

can

long pointed shoes

their hair

twisted

foreheads

of

into

kind

rather

deform,

to

and

their

of furrows

down
as

indignation

with

caps

well

as

adorn, their

than

without

hanging

men,

young

COSTUME.

IN

feathers;

like tails ; the

formed

women,

with

ivory-headedpins ; their
bellies so cruelly
squeezed with cords, that they suffer
much
as
pain from vanityas the martyrs suffered for
would
have believed,
not
religion? Our ancestors
and I know
not if posteritywill believe, that it was
to
posssiblefor the wit of this vain generationof ours
a

invent

so

barbarous,, horrid, ridiculous

base,

many

fashions (besidesthose
and
to see

"

Chaucer,

! may

Alass

sinnefull
too

disgraceitself,as
every day."

thus

And

not

costlew

much

already mentioned)

array

or
superfluite,

of

in

as

see

the

"

daies the

our

clothing,and

else in too

tion
mortifica-

namely

disordinate

in

scan-

only the cost of embraudering,the disguysedindenting,or barring,ounding,

waste
playting,wynding, or bending, and semblable
The
of clothe in vanitie."
common
people also
in excesse
besotted
of apparell,in wide
surwere
in a garment
coats
reaching to their loines, some
reaching to their heels, close before and strowting
the back they make
the sides, so that on
out on
men
this they called by a ridiculous
and
seem
women,
name,
gowne" "c. "c.
the legislature
had
this time
Before
interfered,
minster,
: theypassed laws
at Westthough with little success
tinese

as

to the

later

few years
man

have

we

figure
dis-

to

first,not

"

which
that destruction

were

and

said

to

poverty

be
with

made
which

"to

prevent

the

whole

IN

NEEDLEWORK

kingdom

threatened, by the

was

197

COSTUME.

outrageous,

above
apparel,

in their

of many
persons
expenses
their ranks and fortunes."

sive
exces-

Sumptuary edicts,however, are of little avail,if

not
quarters."'King
supported in "influential
II. affected the utmost
Richard
splendourof attire,
and

he

had
marks

30,000

with
human

it

which

alone

coat

one

valued

was

richly embroidered
It
preciousstones.

was

gold and

nature, at least in human

gender, to be outdone, even

the raiment
Gorgeous and glittering
was
satellites of the

destruction

poverty with

alone, Sir John

one

he had

at

tissue.
"

which

this time, says

At
Cut

weike

in

Bothe
Broader

In many

hoddes,

mens

and
a

Unaccountable
and

show

as

eche

laws

were

gold

smith

day they

it may

tounes,

werke

ay

It is told

this rage

seem,

to suppress

of William

newe,

did renewe."

in

enacted

gold

also in their gounes,

apparelreached even
sister country Scotland
poverty-stricken
1457

that

kingdom
magnificence.

suits of cloth of

in court and

and

furies,and
wyse,

ie

the old Chronicle,

great bothe

was

of

Arundel, it is recorded, that

two
fifty-

time

one

more

the whole

threatened," they revelled in

was

Of

and

"

by a king.
adopted by

and, heedless

court,

wrought
in-

is not in

of the

nature

honourable"

the

and

at

Rufus,

of

the
:

pense
ex-

(then)
and

in

it.

that

one

morning

while

lain
puttingon his new boots he asked his chamberwhat
they cost; and when he replied three
shillings,"
indignantlyand in a rage he cried out,
how
boots of so
long has the king worn
you
paltrya price? Go, and bring me
a
pair worth a
"

"

"

mark

of silver." He

went,

and

bringinghim

much

198

NEEDLEWORK

cheaper pair,told

IN

COSTUME.

that they cost as much

falsely
he had ordered:
"Ay/' said the king, "these
suitable to royalmajesty."
This is merely a specimen of the monarch's
shallow-

as

are

headed

him

extravagance

the

but

of his time

costume

immediately preceding it was

infinitely
tical
superiorin grace and dignityto that of the fantasperiodwe have been describing. The English
admired
at this period were
by all other nations, and
in subsequent
by the French, from whom
especially
for the richness
periodsive have copied so servilely,
With
tunic simply
and elegance of their attire.
a
that

and

confined

the

at

waist,

full and

the back

to

with

flowing mantle,
of the head

occasion

with

quired,
re-

veil

fined
con-

golden circlet,

her beautiful
simply braided over
and
brow
waving on her fair throat,
intelligent
wife of the Conqueror looked every inch a queen,
she looked
what
modest, a diga
was
more,
nified,
dark

her
and
the
and

hair

and

male

The

beautiful
attire

woman.

of

was

and

:
majestic description

the

and

Saxons

delicacy than
which

muscle

meant

never

to

did

happen

them

was

as

had

division

of

more

limb

than

taste

more

knows,

or

nature

The

quired
simple coiffurereand attendance, but if a fastening
give way, the Anglo-Norman lady

be.

to

to fasten

pinionedby

the mode

Normans

Heaven

where,

the material

And
rich

not

"

formed, and

raise her hand

could
arm

to

the
"

flowing and
brutal
Anglo-

same

display every

nature

little care

the

barbarous

f*

divisions

invent

to

this, when

over

was

of

it if she

the fiat of
dress

Silk

The

modiste.

of those

elegant.

chose.

days

indeed

was

was

as

not

200

NEEDLEWORK

Robert

Bloet, second

cloth, lined
which

cost

The

robes

with

black

with

of rank

were

needlework

of females

belt of rich

"1500

exquisitelyfine
white

with

sables

equivalentto

sum

of

cloak

Lincoln, made

of

bishop

I. of

Henry

to

present

COSTUME.

IN

of

spots,

our

money.
always bordered

their

embroidered

inlaid, or rather inwrought,with gold,

girdleswere
was
pearls,and precious stones, and from them
usuallysuspended a largepurse or pouch, on which
the skill of the most
was
accomplishedneedlewomen

usuallyexpended.
This rich and
becoming
innovated

upon

the

over

mode

until

national

of dress

was

dually
gra-

capricereigned paramount
For

wardrobe.

"fashion

essentiallycaprice; and fashion in dress the

recherche
capriceof milliners and tailors,with whom
and
and exaggeration supply the place of education
definition applied as
principle." That this modern
accuratelyto former times as these, an instance may

is

suffice to

show.

Richard

cost, with

enormous

inlaid

in

Henry

V.

Prince

of

imitation
wore,

Wales,

full of small

put, and

on

a
a

I. had

cloak

made,

at

shining metals
precious and
of the heavenly bodies ; and
very

mantle

memorable
or

gown

occasion, when
of rich blue

satin,

as
thicklyas they could be
eylet-holes,
needle
hanging by a silk thread from

hole.

every

The

land's
followingincident, quoted from Miss StrickLife of
Berengaria, will show the esteem
in which a rich, and especially
a furred
garment was
I. quarrelledwith the virtuous
Richard
held.
St.
ing
Hugh, bishop of Lincoln, on the old ground of exacta

simoniacal

tribute

on

the

installation

of the

NEEDLEWORK

IN

201

COSTUME.

Willing to evade the direct

prelateinto his see.
chargeof sellingthe see, King Richard intimated
thousand
that a present of a fur mantle
worth
a
marks
might be a composition. St. Hugh said he
was
no
judge of such gauds, and therefore sent the
if he would devour
kinga thousand marks, declaring,
the

devoted

revenue

to the

poor, he must
had
Richard

have

his

pocketed
St. Hugh set
for the fur mantle.
with the king on
out for Normandy to remonstrate
this double extortion.
that
His friends anticipated
he would
be killed; but St. Hugh said, I fear him
not," and boldlyentered the chapelwhere Richard
at mass,
when the following
took place:
was
scene

wilful way.
But
the money
he sent

soon

as

as

"

"

Give

"

St.

embrace

That

made

have

you

Indeed

"

him

have," said

on

the
behind

St.

side.

one

old

"

the altar and

In

what

state

"

How

can

that

Richard

They

man.

is your

the

The

and

load

to the

braced
emrecess

asked

the

king.

you live apart from

faithless to her; when

of the poor,

withdrew

and

conscience?"

the

son," said

be, my

when

smiled

down.

sate

bishop.
Very easy,"said

are

repliedthe king.
for I have
Hugh,

deserved,"

not

long journey on purpose to see my son."

saying,he took hold of the king'ssleeve and

drew

"

son," said

my

So

"

of peace,

Hugh.

"

"

the

me

your
you

bishop,

virtuous
devour

queen, and
the provision

actions
people with heavy ex?
Are
those lighttransgressions,
my son ?"
ment
king owned his faults,and promised amend-

; and

when

your

he related this conversation

k

to his

202

NEEDLEWORK

barons

submit

must

coveringsfor
considered
a
part of
they were
necessary
a
period.
very considerable

Furs

for

and

king

prelateslike

our

righteousrebukes.''

their

and

all

Were

"

both

of Lincoln,

Hugh
to

added,

he

courtiers

COSTUME.

IN

In

beds

dress

is made

mention

Talmache,

of William

Cecilia, widow

1281

in

as

now

Hawsted,

Cullum's

Sir John

that

used

much

were

died, and, amongst other bequests,left to Thomas

in
Battesford, for black coats for poor people,xxxs.
"

part."

"

To

John

of

Camp,

furrier,for furs for the black

which
"

the

We

reverend

should

bestowed
of fur

and

on

poor

sumptuary
and

law
to

yeomen

wanted

wear

bugg;* but only lambe,

The

distinction

the kind

coney,
in rank was

of the time
allows

catte, and

craft
handi-

of furre, nor

manner

no

coat

the addition

not

III.

of Edward

black

fashion

the

was

remarks,

author
that

think

person

such, however,

indeed

now

xje?." On
viijs*.

coats,

learned

and

St. Edmunds,

Bury

of

foxc."

expresslyshown

by

of fur

displayedon the dress, and these

distinctions were
forced.
regulated by law and rigidlyenBy a statute passed in 1455, for regulating
lords of parliament,the
the dress of the Scottish
of the earls are
appointed to be furred with
gowns
ermine,

lords

while those of the other

are

to be lined

or
purray."
criestay,
gray, griece,
The more
preciousfurs, as ermine and sable, were
reserved
exclusivelyfor the principalnobilityof

with

both
vair

"

Persons

sexes.
or

gris

of

an

inferior

rank

wore

the

(probablythe Hungarian squirrel)

; the
Bugg

"

buge, lamb's

furr.
"

Dr.

Jamieson.

citizens
lamb

and

burgesses,the

skins ; and

The

mantles

robes

the

of

the remains

are

Furs

of this

Sir,"quoth
Hath

cast

Name

Count

rank

as

ransome

choose

plightmy

Certain

foeman's

train'd

falcons

furs, of v

faith the destin'd

German

nobles

of the

wild

cat

clergy. Bishop Wolfstan

ecclesia, cantari
calefieri agno
The
monk

for the

gris,and

robe

and

The

king on
of

much

was

bishop
"

ut

coloratos,
used

nunquam
agnns

the

by
;

ing
say-

audivi, in

Dei;

ideo

had
at
purflled,

proper

officers

adorned

slippersof

hond,

the year 1204 that there is

any
of the royalapparel for festival

this occasion

the

the

finest of the lond."

that the

till about

mantle

satin

slain

pannos

Dei, sed

of Chaucer

enumeration
specific
occasions.

of penance,

acts

mihi,

catus

his sleeves

It is not

had

et

gray

volo."

"

With

or

preferredlambskin

"Crede

in excuse,

air

bright,

flight;

to

who

enjoined,amongst other
varium, griseum, ermelinum,
non
portent,"
skin

som
ran-

power.

priceto pay."

were

The

of the

disastrous hour

war's

my

sumptuous

you

list ; gold,silver

you

fashion.

"

Bongars,

or dogs, or
Palfreys,

Or

the furred

municipalofficers,

our

important part

lot within

my

and

universal

once

an

prisonerof

and

peers,

of

classes

often formed

of
"

kings and

of the several

squirreland
badger skins.

common

peasants, cat

our

203

COSTUME.

IN

NEEDLEWORK

with

tunic

same,

red

satin

Ancassin

"

appointedto bring
a
golden crown, a red
sapphiresand pearls,
are

and

white

of

edged

with

Nicolette.

damask

goldsmith's

204
work

balbrick

enamelled

and

with

set

set with

with

gloves, one

COSTUME.

IN

NEEDLEWORK

clasps adorned

thist; various

quois, pearls, and

topaz

with

one

with

and

two

garnets and

sapphire and

girdles
sapphires; white

gems

amc-

an

emeralds,

sceptres

tur-

with

set

*
twenty-eightdiamonds."
So much
for the queen
for the king :
And
oh!
of the earth, ye
ye enlightened legislators
omnipotent and magisteriallords of creation, look
that picture and on this.
on
"For
our
lady the queen's use, sixtyells of fine
linen cloth, fortyells of dark
cloth, a skin
green
of minever, a small brass pan, and eight toivels."
"

"

"

But

who

John,

the

at

even

his

was

Queen

expenditure.
of the

kept
and

queen

when

warlike

Miss

The

whence

velvets, brocades,

not

all sorts.
the

Lawrence.

middle
of

wardrobe

ages

mercery,

their

the

out

tissue, gauzes,

and

of

says

Miss

land,
Strick-

ordering her

to have

name

that

measured

new

royallord signed the

in which

accounts

they
haberdashery,

prove

officers

queen,

leave

articles for

minutest

the

but

satisfaction

of her

first instance

the

sarcenets,

she obtained

hand

of

of fine linen, one

cloaks

ordered

sovereignsof the
royal warehouse

had

forded
only af-

he

coronation

Whilst

costingtogether
grey pelisse,
himself
launched
into all sorts
of

the

trimmings,of

others

one

He

linen, from

gown

of her

"three

12/. 5^. Ad.-" he

and

extravagant

as

ceremony

scarlet cloth, and

himself

most

amiable

parsimonioustowards
extravagant peopleusuallyare

selfish and

as

to his other

greatestand

the

propensitieswas
fop in Europe,

addition

in

of this stone

one

own

order

the
for

is found.

"

NEEDLEWORK

the

with

down

quarter of
which

the

garment

and

was

the

be

clothes,"

noting
quantity to a

exact

or

composed.
of King
memory
are

we

was,

brocade, of

Edward

III.

who

vented
first in-

told, the

grateful

his queen,

of Hainault

Philippa

his stores,

the cloth, velvet,

yard of

Blessed

the
precision

minute
a

from

the materials

of
delivery

205

COSTUME.

IN

referred
historian, who
adjuration of a monkish
probably not to the first assumption of apparel,but
which
the
charter
to
was
granted first by that
monarch

to the

"

known

that

period were

silk,linen, or

"

Female

wToollen.
the

finer
with

embellished

was

makers

usuallythe

silke broiderie"

fashion

linen armourers,"

of all

sequently
sub-

who

merchant-tailors,

the

as

occupationin
the

and

cutters

garments,

fingers had

cient
suffi-

parts of the wTork

which
in

the

every

at

garment

tapestry;

in
of

in the

spinning of wool and flax, every thread of which was

drawn
by female hands, and in the weaving of which
a
great portionwas also executed by them.
In the forty-fourth
of this king,
the
as
year
book
of Worcester
reporteth,they began to use
of divers coloures, especially
red, with costly
cappes
of
seventh
lynings; and in the year 1372, the fortythe above prince,they first began to wanton
it in a
round curtail weede, which theycall a cloake, and
new
"

in Latin
and
to

this

only covering the shoulders,

the king had endeavoured
notwithstanding

armilausa,

restrain

as

all these

clothing;as

inordinances

and

expenses

in

by the law by Parliament

established
in the thirty-sixth
of his reign.
year
All ornaments
of gold or silver,either on the daggers,
necklaces, rings,or other ornaments
for the
girdles,
appears

206

NEEDLEWORK

IN

COSTUME.

forbid to all that could not

"body,were
spend ten
and farther, that no
furre or
pounds a-year;
pretious and
should
be
worne
costlyapparel,
by any
but men
possessedof 100/. a year."
Besides
the rigid enactments
of the law, and the
anathemas
of divines, other and gentlermeans
were
from time to time resorted to as warnings from
that
sin of dress which
inducements

as
a

to

specimen of
There

"

both

was

inherent

seems

becoming

more

nature,

our

We

one.

or

quote

"

lady whiche had her lodgynge by

for to be
she was
alweye accustomed

the chirche, And

araye her, and to make

that it annoyed and

longe to

in

and

freshe

her

gay,

the
greued moche
it
parson of the chirche, and the parysshens. And
so
happed on a Sonday that she was
longe, that she
sent to the preeste that he shod
tarye for her, lyke

insomuch

as

she

had

ferforthe
And

been
the

on

there

day.

it

that

said, How

thenne

was

the

peple.

is hit ?

shall

annoyed

And

somme

were

it

And

accustomed.

lady this day be pynned ne wel besene in a

God
sende
to
said softely,
Myrroure ? And somme
her an evyllsyght in her myrroure
that causeth
us
this day and so oftymes to muse
and
to abyde for
And
for an
thene as
it plesyd God
her.
ensample,
not

this

as

she

loked

the Fende,

in

whiche

and

horryble,that

and

was

sente

al
to her

in arayeng

her to be

the

she
myrroure
shewed
hymselfe to

her

but

the

And

thanked

after she
God

that

chastysed."*
*

The

Knyght

of the

Toure.

was

had

so

her

lady wente oute of

demonyak a long tyme. And
helthe.

therein

sawe

fowle

wytte,

after God

not
so

so

longe

suffered

208

"

In
Hir
I

"

that

syne
hois

of

honestie,

suld

for

hir

scho

Wald
I

put
sweir

durst

woir

scho

That

That

set

hir

nocht

scho

sickemes

of

be

suld

schone

Hir

COSTUME.

IN

NEEDLEWORK

slyd

ges,

provyd.

on

this

by

garmond
seill,

my

nevir

grene

half

so

nor

weill."

steadfastness.

Sickemes
"

gay,

gray

209

CHAPTER

NEEDLEWORK

li

And

the

that,except

disguisedas

are

11

Out
Not

IN

short
it

French

were

dog

Gadis

the
but

make

breeches
in

such

of

II.

comelie
not

see

vesture

anie

so

Holinshkd.

England."

"

to the eastern

shall

doublet, you

his native

holds

PART

COSTUME."

countriemen

my

from
one

XIV.

morne,

forlorne.

state

comelie

wish it were
their chance
striplings
For Cenis' distaffe to exchange their lance ;
curl'd periwigs,and chalk their face.
And
weare
still are poring on their pocket glasse;
And
Tyt'd with pinn'druffs,and fans, and partletstrips,

When

And

buskes

And

tread

and verdin
on

corked

gales about

stilts

their

hips
pace."
prisoner's
:

Bp.

"

They brought

in fashions

strange and
With
golden garments bright;
The
farthingaleand mighty ruff,
"With

gowns

of rich

Joseph

Hall.

new,

delight."
A

Warning-Piece

to

England.

Neville) of Richard III. seems

somewhat
more
regallyaccoutred than
those of her royalpredecessorsto whom
referred
we
in the last chapter. Among
the stuff"delivered to
the queen
at her coronation
are
twenty-seven yards
of white cloth of gold for a kirtle and train, and
a
The

queen
to have been

(Anne

"

210

NEEDLEWORK

mantle

of the

the

was

an

of

age

the

by

in which

the

to

she

of

rode

palace of

long trains,

rank

COSTUME.

richlyfurred

same,

dress

the Tower

IN

the

with
in

her

litter from
This

Westminster.

and

the

this occasion, we

yards,countesses
The
from

find that duchesses

ten, and

of

costume

that of Edward

bordered

with

lace

needlework,

Henry

thirteen

eight."

VII. 's

differed

day

continued

tries
en-

mantles

baronesses

richlytrimmed

which

the

had

IV., except in the

and

whole

for her

purplevelvet suit,had fifty-six

yards. From
of scarlet cloth given to the nobility
for
on

was

regulated

length was
Anne,

wearer;

This

ermine.

little

of shirts

use

with

long

mental
orna-

in

time

nobilityand gentry.
A
slightinspectionof the inventories of Henry
VlII/s
apparel will convince us of a truth which we
should otherwise, readilyhave guessed,viz., that no
ing
and no splendourwere
sparedin the swashexpense
costume"
of his day. Its general aspect is too
We
familiar to us to require much
comment.
may
remark, however, that four several acts were
passed
amongst

vogue

the

"

in his

reign for

all but

the

"

any
the
and

same

"20

the reformation

apparel,and that
ing
prohibitedfrom wearof

royalfamilywere
cloth of gold of purpure
colour,
colour," upon pain of forfeiture of

for every

Shirt bands

offence.

silk of

or

the

and

same

ruffles

under
but none
by the privileged,
of knight were
permitted to decorate
their shirts with silk, gold,or silver. Henry VIII.'s
referred to,
knitte
glovesof silk are particularly
and also his
handkerchers
edged with gold,silver,
fine needlework.
These
handkerchiefs, wrought
or
of

gold were
the degree

worn

"

"

"

"

with

gold

and

silver, were

not

uncommon

in

the

IN

NEEDLEWORK

In the

after-times.
said of Milwood
A

"

ballad

of

211

COSTUME.

George Barnwell, it is

"

handkerchief
All

Which

she

wrought with

had,
silk and

gold,

she, to stay her trickling

tears,

Before her eyes did hold."

In the east

is still a favourite
to embroider

We

handkerchiefs

are

common,

occupationof

the

Egyptian ladies

these

and

it

them.

surprisednow to find to what minute particulars

man,
descended.
No husbandlegalenactments
labourer to any artificer,
shepherd,or common
of cities or boroughs (having no goods of their
out
above the value of "10), shall use
own
or
wear
any
cloth the broad yard whereof
passeth 2*. 4d, or any
hose above the priceof I2"i. the yard, upon pain of
imprisonment in the stocks for three days."
It was
in a subsequentreign,
that of Mary, that a
should
weare
proclamationwas issued that no man
are

"

"

his shoes
have

above

before

learned
"

seen

members

sixe inches

square at the toes." We

that the attention of the grave and
of the Senate, the "Conscript Fathers

of

tion
England,was devoted to the due regulaof this interesting
the
part of apparel,when
shoe- toes were
so
worn
long that theywere obligedto
be tied up to the waist ere the happy and privileged
the ground. Now,
could
set his foot on
wearer
of the
o'er the spirit
however,
a change came
day,
exercised
and
it became
the duty of those who
a
the welfare of the community
paternalsurveillance over
at large to legislate
regarding the breadth
sixe
of the shoe-toes, that they should not be above
inches square."
Great is Diana of
the cry
Great," was anciently
"

' '

"

'*

"

"

212

NEEDLEWORK

the

IN

COSTUME.

"

Ephesians; but how immeasurablygreater and

mightierhas been, through that and all succeeding
the

ages,

potentate who

supreme

with

mesh

of

silk has constrained

nations
fiimsygauze or fragile
as
by a shackle of iron, that shadowy,unsubstantial,
ever-fleeting,
deity Fashion ! At
yet ever-exacting
her shrine worship all the nations of the earth. The
"

savage

who

his

bores

nose

his

tattooes

or

skin

tawny

which
robes
the
impelled by the same
power
courtlyEastern in flowinggarments; and the darkis influenced
hued beauty who smears
herself with blubber
the
by the selfsame motive which causes
fair-haired daughter of England to tint her delicate
is

cheek

with

And

the mimic

merely in the shape and form of

this deityexercises her tyrannicsway,

it is not

garments that

transforming
"

"

and

rose.

if it

into monsters,"

men

were

unaccountable

have

ever

numberless

once

the

fashion for

themselves
of their

could

yet, how

those

in the

soever,

It
or

was

cied
fan-

prove the sincerity

fortitude with which
they

the

it was

to

of heat

nature
unsophisticated
"penitents of love," for so

themselves

unaccountable

in love

extremes

one

infinite

vagaries are

willingvotaries.
peoplewho either were

which

pretty numerous

wise
like-

women

and

to be

passion by

bear

her

:
possible

and

"

dog-days
the

would
the

cold

shrink.

from
These

fraternityand

"

called,would

was

in

and

clothe

the thickest mantles

lined

throughout with

winds

howled, the hail beat, and

fur

warmest
snow

when

invested

the
the

the thinnest
freezingmantle, they wore
forbidden
to
and most
fragilegarments. It was
fur on a day of the most
wear
piercingcold, or to
with a hood, cloak, gloves,or muff.
They
appear
earth with

NEEDLEWORK

IN

supposed or pretended that

Love
thus propitiated
was
:

after all, who

And,

we

deitywhom
that

aver

decrees

is this

Did

she

appearance? Whence
alightfrom the skies, while

Pseans

sang

glory around

her

Nereids

while

birth?

her

at

while

Sunbeams

the autocrat

they thus

cumbed
suc-

all-powerfulgenius ?
does she arise ?

is her

What

they

Fashion.

was

"

the

irreversible

whose

under

213

COSTUME.

Was

rejoicingstars
she

born

of the

Rainbow
cast a
glittering
? or
did she spring from

revelled

around,

strung their Harps with their

and

halo

of

Ocean

Mermaids

golden locks, soft

the while
melodies
floatingalong the glistering
and echoingfrom the Tritons' booming shells
waves,
? No.

beneath

Alas,

she is evanescent
as

ocean's

the

She
order
that

but

is

"

that
of

one

we

the

froth

;
"

is subtle
and

she

but

lay aside

reader

of the

She

sunbeam,

as

will

no

own

may

our

the

air ;

unsubstantial
of

none

these.

definition in

own

have

greatest and

is

as

the

advantage of
of statesmen.

wisest

etudier
d'ou
un
"Quelqu'un qui voudrait
peu
ce
qu'on appelleles Modes
part en premiere source
de gens,
verrait, a notre honte, qu'un petitnombre
de la plus meprisableespece qui soit dans une
ville,
dans son sein ;
tout indifferemment
renferme
laquelle
les connaissions, nous
n'aurions
si nous
pour qui,
les gens sans
ou
meurs,
que le mepris qu'on a pour
les fous,disposent pourtant
la pitiequ'on a pour
tiennent
de nos
bourses, et nous
assujettis tous
leurs caprices."
be that supereminent deity for
this indeed
Can
do shipwrack their credits," and
whom
so
"many
a

make

themselves

i(

ridiculous

apes,

or

at

best

but

214

NEEDLEWORK

IN

like the

cynnamon-tree, whose

than

body."

its

"Clothes"

writes

COSTUME.

bark

venerable

is

worth

more

historian,
"

are

for

clothes
for health ; cleanly for
warm
necessity
;
decency ; lastingfor thrift ; and rich for magnificience.
if too

Now,

there

various

and

mind

costly;

be

may

making, if
of the

fault in their number,

vain

too

if he

wearer,

if too

matter,

takes

pride

therein.
that is

He

"

the

proud of

his

russlingof

silks,like

laughsat the rattling

of his fetters. For
of
remembrancers
indeed, clothes ought to be our
lost innocency. Besides, why should
our
any brag
? Should
the Estrigesnatch
of what 's but borrowed

madman

off the
Goat
his

in

feather, the

Gallant's

his

Beaver

hat, the

gloves, the Sheep his sute, the Silkworm

ther
stockings,and Neat his shoes (to striphim no farthan modesty will give leave),he would
be left

his

of

proud, even

to be

of affected

the

But

of

day,

when

which

The
An

that

has

suit

French

since

picture

fool's
hood

in one,

are)
hill,
mole-

of

suitable

the

masked

ancestors

our

garishgaudery
far-fetched
livery.
neck
to
Italian,
join'd

thighs from Germany

Englishman in none,

Many

proud of

in

"

To

(as many

abeth's
realityof Elizfor foreign fashions
rage
dated
inunfrequently almost

antipodesof

island, and

the

than
is

one

ideal

Fuller's

worthy
very

existed

The

pardonable

more

dunghill."

the

was

yet 'tis

cleanlyrags,

slovennesse.

the other

dress

And

cold condition.

and

one

and
a

breast

fool in

in several/-

from

all,

Spain.

selves
them-

216

NEEDLEWORK

IN

COSTUME.

tissue,preciousstones, stars, flowers, birds, beasts,

fishes, crisped locks, wigs, painted faces, bodkins,

settingsticks, cork, whalebone,

whatever

Africa, Asia, and

else

odours, and

sweet

America

can

produce
fresher

flaying their faces to produce the

time
in
skin, and using more
complexion of a new
dressingthan Csesar took in marshellinghis army,
but
that, like cunning falconers, they wish
to
lead
larks, and
spread false lures to catch unwary
by their gaudy baits and dazzlingcharms the minds
of inexperienced
youth into the traps of love?"
of Elizabeth's
day,especially
Though the costume
at the period of her coronation
splendid,it had
was,
;

"

attained

not

at'a later
and

we

told that her

are

simple

and

are

appearance

Jane

ridiculous

the

periodelicited

of life was
and

to

Grey's

the
own

which

above-quotedstrictures ;
taste at an
earlyperiod
Her

unostentatious.

thus

tutor,

extravagance

dress

described

by Aylmer, Lady
afterwards
Bishop of

and

London.

king (Henry VIII.) left her rich clothes

jewels; and I know it to be true, that, in seven

"The
and

her

years

after

time

looked

jewels but

father's death, she

that

upon
once,

and

rich

that

in all that

never

attire

and

against her

precious
will.

And

gold or stone upon her head,

ness,
till her sister forced her to lay off her former soberin her glittering
her company
bear
and
gayit as every man
And
then she so wore
might
ness.
her heart misthat her body carried that which
see
that her maidenly apparel,which
I am
liked.
sure
noblemen's
time, made
she used in King Edward's
to be dressed
daughters and wives to be ashamed
that

there

never

came

NEEDLEWORK

IN

217

COSTUME

moved
with
painted like peacocks; being more
her most
virtuous example than with all that ever
Paul or Peter wrote
Yea, this
touchingthat matter.
I know, that a great man's
daughter (Lady Jane
Grey) receiving from Lady Mary, before she was
queen, good apparelof tinsel,cloth of gold and velvet,
she sawit.
laid on with parchment-laceof gold,when
shall I do with it?'
said, What
Marry V said a
it.'
gentlewoman, wear
Nay,' quoth she, that
shame, to follow my
were
a
Lady Mary against
God's Word,
and
leave my Lady Elizabeth, which
and

'

'

'

followeth

'

'

God's

all the

when

And

Word.'

ladies,

the

coming of the Scots' Queen Dowager, Mary

of Guise, (she who
visited England in Edward's
with their hair frownsed,
curled, and
time), went
double-curled, she altered nothing,but kept her old
maidenly shame-facedness."
And
there is a printfrom a portraitof her when
in which
the hair is without
a
ment,
single ornayoung,
and the whole dress remarkablysimple.
Yet
this is the lady whose
passion for dress in
at

life could

after
before

whom

be sated

not

the

(and

; to

Queen

whom,

or

not

slow

wras

least

at

in

propriatin
ap-

resenting the hint*),Latimer,

Bishop of London, thought it necessary to preach
the vanityof decking the body too finely
on
; and
who
her a wardrobe
left behind
finally
containing
and

three

thousand

wonder

"

how

Her

discourse
should
him."

dresses.
such

Majesty
on

walk

such
thither

told

the

modern

profusionof
ladies, that

matters, she
without

would
staff

dresses

if the

fit him
and

fair

leave

one

could

Bishop

held

for heaven
his

may

mantle

be

more

; but

he

behind

218

NEEDLEWORK

COSTUME.

IN

royal wardrobe, with

of puffsand furbelows.
fitting
respectto the integrity
But
clothes
not
were
formerly kept in drawers,
where
but few can
be laid with due regard to the
accommodated

at

in

all,even

safetyof each, but were

hung up on wooden
pegs,
in a room
of receiving
appropriatedto the sole purpose
them ; and
though such cast-off things as
were
occasionally
composed of rich substances were
uses
(viz.,mantles for infants,
ripped for domestic
for children, and

vests

of inferior
till age

suffered

qualitywere
moths

to

ticles
beds), ar-

hang by

the

destroyedwhat pride
would
not
or
permit to be worn
by servants
poor
To
relations.
this practice,
also, does Shakspeare
allude
Imogen exclaims, in Cymbeline,'
walls

and

for

counterpanes
had

'

"

"

Poor

stale,a garment

am

And, for I
I must

be

am

richer

than

out

to

of fashion

hang by

ripp'd

"

the dustman's

wife may, if it so
the duchess, without
the terrors

"

"

the

By

Whereas

the

and

doubtless

excite

fair readers

that

will is free," and

please her,

outshine

of Parliament

fore
be-

Queene's Maiestie, for avoyding of

within

excesse

wisdome

interesting
;

Queene.

the

increase

be

"

great inconvenience

doeth

walls,

"

following regulations may

and
the knowledge of them
will
of joy and gratitudein our
feelings
they are born in an age where

"

The

her eyes

the

care

in

that hath
this

her

Realme,

Apparel,hath

for reformation

and

growen

in

by
her

dayly

the

ordinate
in-

Princely
thereof, by sundry

NEEDLEWORK

former

IN

Proclamations,
those

219

COSTUME.

straightly
charged and

in Authoritie

under

her

to

manded
com-

her

see

Lawes

provided in that behalfe duely executed ;

Whereof
notwithstanding,
partlythroughtheir negligence,
and partlyby the manifest
contempt and
reformation
disobedience of the parties
no
offending,
at all hath
followed; Her Maiestie, finding
perience
by exthat by Clemencie, whereunto
she is most
inclinable,so long as there is any hope of redresse,
this increasing
evill hath
beene
not
cured, hath
rection
thought fit to seeke to remedie the same
by corand

kindes

severitie,to be used againstboth these

ficulties
of offenders, in regard of the present difof this time ; wherein

the

decay and

lackc

in all
in the better sort
hospitalitie
appeares
rable
occasioned
by the immeasucountreys,principally
charges and expenses which they are put to
in superfluous
their wives, children, and
apparelling
families,the confusion also of degreesin all places
as
are
being great ; where the meanest
richly
apparelled
their betters, and the pride that such
as
inferior persons
take in their garments, driving
for their maintenance
to robbing and stealing
many
by the hieway,"c. "c.
"Her
doth straightly
Maiestie
mand
charge and comof

"

"

That
Cloth

of

Silke of

"

Under

under

none

gold or silver tissued

coulor purple.

the

degreeof
golde;

Cloth

of

Cloth

of silver ;

Tinselled

degree of

the

Baronesse

Countess

"

satten ;
l

wear

220

NEEDLEWORK

Sattens

branched

Or

other

IN

with

COSTUME.

silver

golde ;
Sattens
stripedwith silver or golde ;
Taffaties brancht with silver or golde;
Cipressesflourisht with silver or golde;
Networks
wrought in silver or golde ;
brancht with silver or golde ;
Tabines
with

"

any

silke

degree of

the

embroideries

Any

Baron's

of

lace,

Passemaine

cloth mixt

or

golde or

eldest Sonne's
silver

any other
silke ;

or

golde,silver, or

embroidered

or

silver.

golde,or
pearle,

Under

or

with

the

Under

lace, mixed

in

Velvet

for
garnishings
pearle.

degree of
gownes,

"

uppermost garments

Embroidery

wife

Velvet

other

silke.

degree

the

Under

with

with

the head

Knighte'swife :
cloakes, savegards,or
a

Caules, attires,or other

trimmed

wife

of

Knighte's eldest

Sonne's

"

in kirtles and
in

Sattens

gownes,

petticoates
;
cloakes, savegards, or

other

uppermost garments.
"

the

Under
armes

Satten
Dam

Tuft

Gentleman's

\
kirtles,

e,

taffetie,

I
/in gownes.

taftetie, I
J
Grograine

Plaine

"

in

ask

degree of

wife, bearing

NEEDLEWORK

Venice

and

Paris

sources

of fashion

derived

the

the "tire

these

from

have

to

seem

221

COSTUME.

IN

depots

which

chief

of taste

dresses, the

flaunting head

the

been

were

shiptire,'

"

commonly worn
in these
days of gorgeous
finery,and which were
rendered
and unnatural
still more
outre
by the dyed
locks which
The custom
of dyeing
they surmounted.
the hair is of great antiquity,
and was
very prevalent
in the East.
Mohammed
dyed his hair red ; Abu
Bekr

valiant," "c,

his

The
and

Scenite

the

among

did

successor

ancients

the

which

had

about

1572,

Arabs

used

to

and

same,

wash

it is

to this

even

mixed

often

Gauls

the

were

custom

day.
their hair,

gold

dust

in

the

hair

with

liquid

tendency to redden it. It was doubtless

in personal compliment to Queen Elizabeth, that all
the fashionables
of her day dyed their locks of a hue
the reverse
which
of attracis generallyconsidered
tion.
introduced
into England
Periwigs,which were
allusion
the

to be

were

whom

hair shall be

he

might
colour

of what

colours.

It is in

that Benedick

says of
Her

of

fashion

to this absurd

lady

had

all

chuse
it

to

marry

"

"

please God."

wigs in Charles the Second's time ;

and these were
graduallyincreased in size, until they
reached
the acme
of their magnificence in the reign
of William
but even
and Mary, when
not only men,
lads and children
were
disguisedin enormous
young
wigs. And
though in the reignof Queen Anne this
Men

first wore

latter

custom

had

was

the want

not

of

so

common,

yet

wigs suppliedby
and dressing of the hair, which
performed by the women.
men

the

young

ings,
artificial curlwas

then

only

222

NEEDLEWORK

One

Bill
thus

runs

Next

"

Lane,

door

curleth
sells

ingredientsof

hair

to cut

fine

this,
been

it grow

If any

long.
never

children's

like

look

with

is mixed

that

hair

if the

be

if short,

thick; and

gentleman's or
it curie

lank, she makes

so

Who

Beercraft

which

making,

Bride's

St.

in

dren's
chilin

periwig.'"
indeed, the lookinglike a periwig,seems
then
the very beau
ideal of all beauty
to

another

curl hair

advertises

fair tonsoress

after the

that you

manner,

French

shall

fashion,

after

it to be their

know

not

"

hair"

own

How
of

be

and

Ball,

pomatum,

own

perfection,for

and

so

her

time, and

have

to

MSS.

Harl.

ladies, gentlemen, and

fine

it grow

it makes

And

Golden

thin,,it makes

so

little

the

to

Street, Lyveth Lidia

and

never

the

"

She

hair.

COSTUME.

preserved amongst

Fleet

cuttcth

IN

amiable

an

of

censor

has

Exhausted,

studious

And,
A

real

For

The

best

worn

elegance,

to

dress

long.

was

little

Elizabeth
and

such

year

!
"

to

at

supply

the

loom

us'd,
strange disguise."

"

most

of her

enormous

obligedto
In the

lines

still,discard

novelty and

known,

of

day

the

are

run

genius

of mutation

of the costume
was

later

have

We

had

mons'rous

return

absurdities

ev'ry change, that Fancy,

Through

To

these

applicableto

teristic
characdistinguishing
day was the ruff; which
size that a lady in full

feed herself with

1580, sumptuary

spoon

laws

were

two

feet

pub-

224

NEEDLEWORK

at that

price was,
starch, and
Mrs.

time, 4.1.

ruffs

COSTUME.

51.
to

teach

to

see

the first that

them

the starch.

ever

to

This

ing
taught starch-

adjustedby poking

were

silver,heated

steel,or

or

20,?. to learn them

Dinglicnwas
in England."

The

IN

sticks of iron,

in the fire

thing
(probablysomeItalian iron),and
in May
answering to our
1582 a lady of Antwerp, being invited to a wedding,
celebrated
could not, although she employed two
laundresses, get her ruff plaitedaccording to her
"

she fell to swearc

and teare, to
which
taste, upon
and ban, casting the ruffes under
feete, and
curse
"

might take her when shee

did wear
againe." This gentleman,
any neckerchers
will always summon,
invocation
whom
it is said an
suitor,
now
appeared in the likeness of a favoured
and inquiringthe cause
of her agitation,
he
took
the settingof her ruffes,which he performed
in hande
and
to her great contentation
liking; insomuch, as
she, looking herself in a glasse(as the devill bade
with him.
This
greatly enamoured
her) became
kissed her, in the doing whereof,
man
done, the young
wishing

the

that

devill

he

writhed

her

neck

in

sunder,

so

she

died

miserably."
here

But

the

comes

four

to

feare and

woonder

"

fearful

men

tried in

body" when coffined for

interment; six were
equallyunsuccessful; "whereat
the coffin to be
the standers-bymarvelling,caused
thereof:
where
they found
opened to see the cause
the body to be taken away, and a blacke catte, very
in the coffin, settingof
leane and deformed, sitting
great ruffes and frizling of haire, to the great
vain

lift her

marvel

of all the beholders."

NEEDLEWORK

IN

225

COSTUME.

but
were
worn
now,
large hoop farthingales
said to be adopted by the ladies from a
theywere
laudable spirit
of emulation, a praiseworthydesire
with the
their parts to be of equalstanding
on
bler
noThe

"

sex," who

other materials

or

breeches, stuffed with rags

such an enormous
size, that a

wore

now

to

dimension
was
extraordinary
placedround
the parliament house, (of which
the traces
were
visible at a very late period)solely
for their accommodation.

bench

of

Strutt

quotes

judges accused
law (fora law

an

of

instance

whom

man

the

wearing breeches contraryto the

made
was
againstthem) : he, for his
drew out of his slopsthe contents
excuse,
; at first a
pair of sheets, two table-cloths, ten napkins,four
and a comb ; with nightcaps
shirts,a brush, a glass,
and other thingsof use, saying, Your
worshipmay
of

"

understand, that because

I have

safer

no

house,
store-

to lay
pocketsdo serve me for a room
up my goods in, and, though it be a strait prison,
man
yet it is big enough for them, for I have
was
things of value yet within it." His excuse
heartily
laughed at and accepted.

these

"

This

ridiculous
but

were

then

fashion

revived

again

stuffed
chiefly

for

was

in

short
The

1614.

with hair.

time

used,
dis-

breeches

Many

upon them ; amongst others, A

lamentable
complaintof the poore Countrye Men
agaynst great hose, for the loss of their cattelles

rhymes were

tales."

written

satirical

In which
"

What

fall upon

For want

Whych

these

occur

hurt, what

And

"

damage

"

doth

ensue,

the poore,

of wool
monstrous

and

flaxe,of late,
hose

devoure.
L

226

NEEDLEWORK

"

hath

haire

But

bryche

The
That

Henry VIII.
stockings from
known

when

of every

horse

but

knitted

Spain,

second

the

until

tell,

can

received

Mrs.

silk-woman,

her

knave,

his taile to save."

way

had

COSTUME.

possessed,of late,

so

beast, nor

one

no

Whiche

not

IN

pairs of

few

silk

ones

were

Elizabeth,

of

year

silk

Montague, presented

ings,
Majesty a pair of black knit silk stockshe
for
was
a
new-year's gift,with which
if the
much
so
pleased that she desired to know
donor
to which
could
not
help her to any more,
*
them
I made
Mrs.
fully
careMontague answered,
for your
on
Majestie; and seeing
purpose
in
they please you so well,I will presentlyset more
hand."
Do so (said the Queen), for I like silk
stockings so well, that I will not henceforth wear
These
cloth hose."
mon
shortlybecame comany more
over
so
simple an article as a
; though even
to

Her

"

her
asserted
stocking,Fashion
at
a
subsequent period they
wide

at

the

breeches,"

top, and

by

made
of

means

supremacy,

and

yards
fast to the
petticoat
strings through eyelet
two

were

"

holes.

Elizabeth's

But

known,
it

still

was

magnificent.A

ducats

were

It

towards

rich attire is well

day

with

by

worn

this fur, that, it is said

sometimes

given for

the close

of her

Gabrielle

d'Estrees

dress

black

of

wore

satin,

"

men

sables
; and

thousand

face of sables."

reign that
on

so

fantastic,

was

suit trimmed

the richest dress

expensivewas
was

of her

if the costume

considered

was
so

and

for
predilection

the celebrated

festive

ornamented

sion
occa-

with

NEEDLEWORK

preciousstones, that she could scarcely

under
its weight. She had
handkerchief,
a
she engaged to pay
the embroidering of which

pearls
move

for

227

COSTUME.

IN

1900

and

And

crowns.

such

example

of her

it

said

was

the influence

was

Paris, that the ladies

in

their shoes

mented
orna-

with

jewels.
afterwards
Yet even
this costlymagnificence was
surpassed by that of Villiers,Duke of Buckingham,
with
it was
whom
at an
even
common,
ordinary
with
dancing, to have his clothes trimmed
great
even

diamond

buttons, and

cockades, and

to

have

diamond

hatbands,

yoked with great and

manifold
ropes and knots of pearl; in short, to be
much
manacled, fettered, and imprisoned in jewels: insothat at his going to Paris
in 1625, he had
earrings,to

be

the richest

twenty-seven suits of clothes made,

embroidery,lace, silk,velvet, gold,and

contribute
set

all

valued

both

over,

at fourscore

feather, stuck
his sword,

all

which

was

and

suit

thousand
over

but

weary

our

white

velvet

uncut

cloak, with

diamonds,
and

could

gems

diamonds

pounds, besides

with

girdle,hatband,

It would
the

of

one

that

were

as

great
also

spurs.*

readers

were

to

we

well-known

dwell

of the
Cavalier
peculiarities
and Roundhead"
days ; and tell how the steeplecrowned
hat was
replacedat the Restoration
by the
plumed and jewelledvelvet; the forlorn, smooth,
methodistical
ing
pate, by the curled ringletsand flowon

lovelock

"

the

sober, sombre,

"

garment, with its starched

sad

"

coloured

folds, by the gay, varied,

Then, how the plume
flowingdraperyof all hues.
*

Life of

Raleigh, by Oldys.

223

of

NEEDLEWORK

feathers

buckle,

gave
the

and

IN

COSTUME.

thick

the

ruffle,to the bagwig, the tie, and

dashing cloak and slashed sleeves were

by the coat of ample dimensions, and
waistcoat with interminable
pockets resting on
the

"breeches"

full

stock.

The

knees;

and

simpler hand
large curling wig and
to

way

universal

in

were

ceeded
suc-

the
the
use,

black ''
of the universal
not
though they were
which
black breeches''
Cowper immortalises ; but
and
ceeded
powder" have had their reign,and are sucof the present
costume
by the inexpressible"
day. We will conclude a chapter,wdiich we fear to
have
mated
out
tediously,by Lady Morgan's anispun
"

"

"

"

of the

account

that
in

article
universally-coveted

ir shawl
"

introduction, in

"

Cash-

"

While

Rouen),

of dress

of

France,

partaking of
the

conversation

sumptuous

collation

naturallyturned

on

(at
the

and
commanded,
splendidviews which the windows
the subjectsconnected
with their existence.
The
on
flocks,which were
grazing before us had furnished
the beautiful shawls which hung on the backs of the
fair companions, and
chairs occupied by our
which
of the
Grand
might compete with the turbans
to persuade a
Signor. It would be difficult now
that there was
Parisian petitemaitresse
when
a time
French

of

women

eashmir,

that

or

the toilet and

such

sultan

The

fashion

was

first

an

could

exist

without

indispensablearticle
unknown

cashemir

even

that

of

to the most

appeared in
cated
France/ said Madame
D'Aubespine, (for an eduhas ahvays something worth
French
woman
sent over
by
hearing to say on all subjects,)was
elegant.

'

'

NEEDLEWORK

de

Barcn

IN

Tott, then

Madame

de Tesse.

her

in

the

229

COSTUME.

service of the

When

they were
body thought them

Porte,

to

produced

in

society,
every
very fine,but
It was
of them.
nobody knew what use to make
determined
make
that they would
pretty couvrepieds and veils for the cradle ; but the fashion wore
with

out

the

eider-down

shawls, and

produce

returned

to

their

quilts.'

Monsieur

"

ladies

Ternaux

of the

observed

Cashmerian

that

'though the
had
long been

looms

a
Europe, they did not become
vogue
until after Napoleon's expedition to Egypt ; and
that even
then they took, in the first instance, but
slowly.'The shawl was still a novelty in France,
when
Josephine,as yet but the wife of the First
how
to drape its elegantfolds,
not
Consul, knew
stood indebted
and
to the brusque Rapp for the

known

in

grace

with

which

afterwards

it.

wore

je vous fasse Tobservation/ said

settingoff for the opera ; que
Rapp, as they were
schall n'est pas mis
cette
votre
avec
grace qui vous
"

'

Pcrmittez

she
que

'

est habituelle.'

Josephine laughinglylet him

of the Egyptian women.
manner
toilette caused
little delay,and
a
exploded in vain !

it in the
arrange
This
impromptu

"

What

destinies

of this cashemir
the

shawl

might

events, which
of

Europe."
*

would

waited
A

upon

moment

have
have

the

infernal

the

arrangement

sooner

or

given another
changed the

Lady Morgan's

France

in 1829-30.

chine
ma-

later,and
course

to

whole

face

23

NEEDLEWORK

The
had

Empress
quite

hers.

designs

and

in

curious

"c,

with
which

where
and

else

20,000
The

this

believe

in

Europe

francs

to

have

She

they

to

were

made

they

could

were

to

came

be

sent

shawls

as

seen

fifty,

and

obtain

JNa-

that
shawls

white

peacocks,

perroquets,
not

were

the

length

at

were

at

he

as

met

valued

with

at

any

15,000

each.

shawls

went

whatever

the

beautiful

bluebells,

hundred

Lenormant

way.

roses,

Malmaison,
Paris

her

valuable

as

high-priced.

M.

ther
whe-

question

ever

one

as

week

sold

and

were

Every

covered

had
and

patterns

and

was

Constantinople,

these

varre,

was

she
beautiful

to

valuable.

them

biographer)

her

(says

shawls,

of

Navarre

extremely

after

for

collection
At

COSTUME.

Josephine

passion

any

all

IN

rate

sale.

much

below

sold

by
their

auction

value.

at

All

232
The

its

THE

FIELD

OF

THE

CLOTH

GOLD.

OF

faithful of reminute
and
corders
scrupulously
has detailed day by day, and point by point,
varied
and showy routine, and every subsequent
most

historian

borrowed

has

these

dry

breath

of

chronicler; and
the

by
has

frame

been

talent, that

from

there

details

old
panded
ex-

Fancy, and his skeleton

by the magical drapery of

fleshed

so

of the
pages
been
have
so

the

little left

seems

imaginationcan dilate,or the

The
astonishingimpulse

the

which

on

pen expatiate.
which
has in various

given to ihe
searchingof ancient records, and the development
of hitherto obscure and comparativelyuninteresting
in an
details, and vesting them
alluringgarb, has
within

ways

made

us

familiar with

as

eighth Henry,
the

orthodox

became

18th

and

not

hath

educed

beheaded

two."

codicil
"

his

"

that

the

"if

"

he

married

talent

wives, there would

"he

affording

even

Henry

formation,
in-

the

that

age;"

Not

which

that

ascended

Eighth

of his

year

with

were

historical

necessary
the

beheaded

the
gratuitously

had

of

of the

records

school-dayswe

Henrv

"

been

the domestic

extremely corpulent;

six wives,

writer

years

our

abstract

the

in

in

as

that

"

throne

last few

the

of

the

some

Eighth

have

been

to the fair sex."

impeachment on his gallantry
in describingthis, accordingto some,
But
the
that Europe ever
most
beheld,"
magnificentspectacle
of allegoryand fripand to others, "a
heavy mass
pery,"
no

"

historians
the

outward

have

features

been
of

the

contented
gorgeous

to

pourtray

scene,

and

if at all, touched
the contending
on
slightly,
veiled beneath
a broad
feelingswhich were
though
and joy. Truly, it were
thin surface of concord
a
have

FIELD

THE

task
or

deep interest, even

of

to

attempt

actors

CLOTH

THE

OF

on

to

into

enter

OF

233

GOLD.

to picturethem,
slightly
the feelings
of the chiel

that field.

guiding spiritof the

whole, as the mighty artificer of that pageant on
the fates of
which, however
gaudy in its particulars
Europe were
supposed to depend, and the earnest
Wolsev.
fixed
comes
certainly
eyes of Europe were
Gorgeously habited himself, and the burnished
relieved by the
gold of his saddle cloth onlypartially
First and

foremost,

as

the

"

"

more

velvet

crimson

sombre

nay,

his very

shoes

gleaming with brilliants,and himself withal so lofty

in bearing, of so
noble
that this very
a
presence,
but
natural
a
magnificence seemed
appendage,
to monarch
Wolsey took his loftyway from monarch
;
and
that none
his dignity,
well did he become
so
but
kings, and such kings as Henry and Francis,
would
the eyes of the myriad spectators
have drawm
from
himself.
And
now
surely he was
happy ;
most
now
gratifiedto the uttersurelyhis ambition was
in the eyes of all Europe did the two
; now,
proudest of her princes not merely associate with
him
almost
an
as
equal, but openly yield to his
No
to his decisions.
suggestions almost bow
his dehe bore himself, courtly as was
meanour,
as
loftily
his eloquence,
rapid and commanding as was
and influential as seemed
his opinionson all
"

and

every

at ease,

one

"

around

"

the

cardinal

had

mind

ill

despitehis self-control,was occasionally

testified by his contracted
and
brow
thoughtful
aspect. After exerting all the might of his mightyinfluence, and for his own
aggrandisement,to procure
this meeting between
the two
potentates,he
as,

234

THE

had

at the

He

had

FIELD

solemn

THE

last moment

sold

pledged

OF

himself

fit to

seen

himself

OF

CLOTH

to

GOLD.

higher bidder

Charles

to

to

engagement

his

alter

policy.
of his

teeth

in the very
Francis.
Even

had

he

brating
cele-

whilst

this

league of amity, he was turning in his

mind
the means
own
to rupture it ; and
by which
was
yet withal, nervously fearful of any accident
which should prematurely break
covery
it,or lead to a disof his

enjoyment
Our

faithlessness.

own

King

was

So

for his

much

Henry

all

was

enjoyment. He
promise of his youth ; nor
by indulgence,vices. He
him happy ; he loved, more
He
so.
delighted in all
he

"

unrivalled

in

delight,and

had

not

had

outlived

his

loved

the

foibles

to

petuous
im-

eager

good

become,

all around

see

to make
especially,

the exercises

the

tilt and

the

of the

them

field;

tournament

engaged in them forgot kings and kingdoms.

His vanity,outrageous as it was,
hardly sat
it elevated then
was
ungracefullyon him, so much
it softened
much
so
was
by bouyant good humour
his manly grace,
at that time by his noble
presence,
his kingly accomplishments, and
his regal munificence.
and

when

"

The
shudders

stern

to think

and

selfish
then

tyrant

whom

only

bluff

one

King
and
caressed by
Hal," loving and beloved, courted
an
empire. He gave himself up to the gaietiesof
the time without
for the present, a thought
a
care
he have
Could
for the future.
glanced dimly into
he could not, and he was
that future ! But
happy.
Francis
was
admirably qualifiedto grace this
and to enjoy it,as
probably he did enjoy it,
scene,
unby no means
vividly. Yet was this gratification
upon,

was

"

THE

FIELD

OF

THE

CLOTH

OF

235

GOLD.

alloyed. His gentle manly nature was irritated at

certain stipulations
of Henry's advisers, by which
their most
trivial intercourse
was
subjected to
specific
regulations.There were recorded instances
enough of treacherous
advantagestaken to justify
fullythis conduct on the part of Henry's ministers ;
felt its injustice,
but Francis
as
applied to himself,
and

at that

known

time, made

stratagem

midst

of his

those

domesticated

of

use

others.

convince

to

But

the

in

misgivings on his
mind
peror's
of a more
serious nature, caused
by the EmThese
visit to Dover.
recent
misgivings
increased by the meeting between
were
Henry and
Charles at Gravelines
too surelyconfirmed
by
; and
circumstances.
quickly-following
The
of England,
gentle and good Kathartne
the carethe equallyamiable
and
fully-trained
Queen Claude,
rable
stepdaughterof the noble and admitheir
Anne
of Bretagne, probably derived
here from
the pleasure of seeing
chief gratification
and
amicable
their husbands
happy. For queens
in domestic
though they were, their happiness was
the hearts of
life,and their chief empire was
over
Not

enjoyments

with

the Dowager

so

he

well-

and

generous

had

them.
of France

Queen

of
and beautiful Duchess
graceful,
though very fond of her royalbrother,
she had
to her gallanthusband,
yet an
and

for

ear

all the

glance and
do homage

to her

have

been

not

if she

"

beaming

somewhat
Could

smile

charms.
hard
have

for

And
"

and

inhaled

all who

lively,

Suffolk

eye
a

and

we

an

radiant

crowded

yet her heart

that

for

devoted

and

had

around, and

revelries

the

"

know

to

must

it

was

the air of France,

or

236

THE

FIELD

trod

its sunny
have dimmed
even

THE

CLOTH

soil,without
her

OF

GOLD.

recollections

which

must

the

thoughts of the past,

for the present.
breathinga thanksgiving

whilst

Somewhat

taken

OF

at

eye

less than

thither

five years
weeping bride

she

ago,
;

youth,

nay, hope itself,sacrificed to

by which the actions of monarchs
We

are

much

as

them

in their

accustomed
historical

mere

to

read

had
nature,
that

to

clination,
in-

diency
expe-

are

these

memoranda,

been

lated.
regu-

things so
look

upon

cold unvarnished

of detail,
simplicity
which we
stiffold portraits

like the

rigidoutlines of
meant
to represent
can
ever
scarcelysuppose were
that it requires a strong
living flesh and blood
effort to picturethese circumstances
to our
as
eyes
actuallyoccurring.
In consideringthe state policyof the thing and
the apparent national
advantage of the King of
the King
of
to
England's sister being married
France
we
forget that this King of England's
"

"

"

sister

was

fair young

creature,

with

warm

heart,

gushing affections,and passions and feelingsjust

;
opening in all the vividness of earlywomanhood
condemned
to
that she was
and
a
sickly,
marry
querulous,elderlyman, who began his loving rule
she
while
was
a
even
by dismissing at once,
stranger in a foreign land," every endeared friend
had
attendant
who
and
accompanied her thither;
"

and
been

that, worse

all, her

than

sought and gained by

the

favourite

pride of his Court.

Surely her lot was
weepingly exclaim,

of

the

Where

affections

had

noble

English gentleman,
English king, and the

hard;
"

young

well

and
is

might she
hope ?
my
"

now

THE

Little could

her not

see

but

united

Must

only

or

her

would

enforced

vows,

of her heart.

man

not, while

there

237

GOLD.

four short months

libertyfrom

at

the

to

OF

(for Louis, though infirm,,

she suppose
aged) that three

not

was

CLOTH

THE

OF

FIELD

of
watchingthe tilting

her

there not have

gracefuland gallant husband, must
there not, in
been
must
melancholy in her mirth?
of wits during the banquet or
the keen encounter
with
there not have mingled method
the ball
must
"

"

her

madness

shall record,

Who

or

even

refer to the

hopes,and

wishes, and

and
feelings,

thoughts, and reflections

of the thousands
congregated thither ; each one
with feelingsas intense, with hopes as
individually
important as those which influenced the royal King
of England !
of France, or the majestic monarch
The
loftiest of Christendom's
knights,the loveliest
of Christendom's
assembled
here ;
daughters were
and the courteous
Bayard,the noble Tremouille, the
if posloftyBourbon, felt inspiredmore
gallantly,
sible,
than
all love

and

amity

champions,in
eyed maidens,
were

in, out,
and

the

thousand
side
would
and

"

with

the

when

contending

proudest

of

in

England's

of the fairest of her bluepresence

the noblest of her courtlydames.

loftyand noble alone there congregated.

After the magnificentstructure
for the king
ment
court, after every thing in the shape of a tene-

Nor

and

their wont,

even

was

of

the

or

about

the

little town

neighbouring hamlets, were

tents
were
eighthundred
the English alone.
No

be absent
yeomen

but

flocked

to

likewise
the

scene

of Guisnes,

occupied,two
set

noble

the

on

up
or

baron

knights,and squires,
:

citizens

and

city

238

FIELD

THE

OF

CLOTH

THE

OF

GOLD-

disportedtheir richest silks and their heaviest

for gain, pedlars for knavery,
chains ; jews went
for
mischief.
tradespeople for their craft, rogues
there were
Then
vagaboundes, plowmen, laborers,
and beggers, that for drunkennes
lay in
wagoners,
and
routes
heapes, so great resorte thether came,
to see
that bothe knightes and ladies that wer
come
faine to lye in haye and strawe,
the noblenes, were
and hold theim thereof highly pleased."
accommodations
The
provided for the king and

wives

"

of his

members
privileged

court

this

on

occasion

and

splendid
endued
with the magnito be
edifice that seemed
ficence,
and to rise almost with the celerityof that
prepared by the slaves of the lamp, where the
richest tapestry and silk embroidery the costliest
accomplished artisans, were
produce of the most
amid
the gold and jewelleryby
unnoticed
almost
surrounded
where
all that art
which
they were
could produce,or riches devise had been lavished
than

more

were

magnificent;

vast

"

"

"

been

all this has

itself,the nucleus

often

described.

of the

And

the

show, the point where

tent

the

"

to confer, was
kings were
hung round
the cords,
with cloth of gold : the posts, the cones,
all of the same
the tents, were
preciousmetal, which
here in such excessive profusionas to give
glittered
has superseded all
that title to the meeting which

"brother

The

others""

Field

of the Cloth

of Gold."

the

prelude to an era of
galanty
great interest, for while dwelling on the
cannot
shew
forget that now reigned Solyman
we
This

gaudy pageant

was

et

"

the

and
magnificent,

the

Tenth

that

that

Charles

this
the

was

the

Fifth

was

age
now

of Leo

begin-

240

FIELD

THE

lowed
the

molten

OF

CLOTH

THE

silver

to

the

escape

persecutions

of

day.

"

The

road

from

during

London
whole

one

whole

said

the

ships passing

the

confusion

historians

road

like

and

great

so

of

was

length stationed

of

course

increased

So
and

Dover

between

gons,
wag-

at

fold.

hundred

vered
co-

and

carts

were

many

Calais, that

they jostledeach other

great black porkers.

affirm

herd

were

order, which

in

the

with

soldiers

the confusion, that marshals

keep the

Canterbury was

to

week

mules, horses, and

to

GOLD.

OF

the

on

The

like a
from
station to station
King went
shepherd,drivingall the better classes of the country
hind."
before him, and leaving not a single straggler be"

Though

do

we

humorous

this

statement,
the

descriptionfrom

of

credit
implicitly

not

think

we

chronicler

old

small

point of
portion

Hall

(we will

every

really inflict only a small portion on our readers)

it
will justifya good deal of it ; but more
especially
of the elaborate
will enlighten us as to some
ceits
conthe needle was
of the day, in which, it seems,
as
fullyoccupied as the pen.
the

Would

it have

been

The

Frenche

kyng

sette

barded,

covered

"

golde, and
and

of

embraudered

buckeled

with

with

the

of the

Cloth

at

all?

hymself on

was

rauen,

is

of

woman?
skill of the needle-

courser

purple sattin, broched

with corbyns fethers

fether

gold. Corby n is a
corbyn is Cor, whiche

Field

"

without

been

have

Gold"

the

would

what

Indeed,

blacke
and

the

and

with
round
hached

firste silable

harte, apenne

in

Eng-

THE

lish,is
so

FIELD

OF

Frenche, and s-^ ._": th pain, and

this fether round was
endles, the buckels

fether in

it stode

wherwith

the

fethers

sothfastnes, thus

Wednesdaie

devise, harte fastened in

in harte

the

13

betokeneth

fastened,

wer

the

was

pain endles, or pain

"

"oT"gteT119LD* ^41

CI

THE

fastened endles.

daie

the

June,

of

twoo

hardie

kynges armed at all peces, entered into the

feld rightnobly appareled,
the Frenche
kyng and
all his parteners of chalengewere
arraied in purple
with golde and purple velvet, emsattin, broched
brodered

with

quando, all

written

was

litle rolles of

full of the

set
no

rolles,were

as

thus, L, whiche

harte
"

Frenche

mounted

one

aboute
the

is

first daie

as

she, which

satten,

and

the borders

garmentes,

in the

was

she.

armed

at al

pointes
apparelas wel

written

bokes

as

of blewe

well

is

entred

the

ful of litle bookes

of the bardes
chaine

terpreted
in-

was

signifieth
together,

likewise

the other, embrodred

was

she, and ensuyng

courser

blyng the chayneof a

was
enterpretedto be
boke

it

where

wer

the letter ell

royal,all his
garmentes were
purplevelvet,

on

with

white

in Frenche

kyng

garmentes

with

fastenedin pain endles, when

The

bardes

set

quando elle,when

of the

devise

and

and

wherein

sattin

all the residue

poudered

to be

the

bardes

and

same,

white

or

liber,

were

and

written

of
me

the borders

like iron,

of

resem-

prisonchaine, whiche
a

sayed,a

booke
me,

within

put

this

these two

libera me ; the chayne betokeneth

together,and it maketh
prison or bondes. and so maketh together
in Englishe, deliver me
of bodes ; put to ye reason,
the fyrst
day,second day, and third day of chaunge,
for he chaunged but the second
day, and it is hart
M

242

THE

fastened
whether

L""F THE

thus

it

were

was

in

so

OF

CLOTH

when
pai$AxJndles,

in

bondes

of

FIET

GOLD.

she delinereth,

me

made,
thinterpretation
all thingesor not I may

not

but
not

say."
picture from an author
followinganimated
alreadyquoted,has been drawn of this spirit-stirring
The

scene:

"

Upon

"

largeopen

of the

outside

walls, was

of all kinds

tents

human

busy

and

be

to

beings, employed

every open space,

alreadyspread with streamers,

horses

and

brighthues

and

under

mules, loaded
with

ornamented

seen

colours, with

on

of all the

that extended

green,

or

gay

the

multitude

of

multitude

of

in

raisingfresh pavilions
in decorating those

pennons,
the sun.

with

on

armour

ribbons

to

and

banners

Long lines of
or
baggage,
put them in

winding about all over

harmony with the scene, were
the plain,some
proceedingtowards the town, some
gled
seeking the tents of their several lords, while minof
appeared various bands
amongst them,
and on foot, with the rays of
soldiers,on horseback
the

decliningsun

catchingupon the heads of their

bills and lances ; and
sock
togetherwith the white casand
broad
red cross,
marking them out from
and there, too, might
all the other objects. Here
be seen
a party of knights and
gentlemen cantering
the plain,and enjoyingthe bustle of the scene,
over
or
standingin separate groups, issuingtheir orders
for the erection
and garnishingof their tents ; while
couriers, and poursuivants,and heralds, in all their
mule
drivers, lacqueys,
gay dresses, mingled wtfh
and

peasants,

made

up

the

armourers,

pages,

livingpart of

the

and

tent

stretchers,

landscape.

THE

The

"c

shouts

sounding

the marshals
from

the

of

the castle,

the

as

the

horse, the

to

trumpets

heralds, and

and

243

GOLD.

OF

leaders, the

various

the

of

CLOTH

THE

OF

FIELD

loud

cries

roaring of

king put

of

lery
artil-

his foot in the

to make
one
general outcry
stirrup,all combined
subsided,
rarelyequalled. Gradually the tumult
a
graduallyalso the confused
assemblage assumed
regular form.
Flags,and pennons, and banderols,
embroidered
banners, and scutcheons ; silver pillars,
and crosses,
and crooks, ranged themselves
in long
interminable
line ; and
the bright procession,an
of living gold, began to wind
the
stream
across
five hundred
of the gayest
about
plain. First came
and
wealthiest
gentlemen of England, below the
rank of baron ; squires,knights,and bannerets, rivalling
of their apparel
each
other in the richness
and
the beauty of their horses ; while the pennons
of the knightsfluttered above their heads, marking
the place of the English chivalry. Next
appeared
the proud barons
of the realm, each with his banner

borne

before

shield

of his

bishops,not
clergy,but
Church

him, and

To

arms.

in the
in

of Rome

followed

simple

the
;

these

more

by a custrel with
again succeeded

robes

of the

gorgeous

while

close upon

the

Protestant

habits
their

the

of

the

steps rode

the

higher nobility,surrounding the immediate

of the king, and offeringthe most
splendid
person
of gold and
mass
sun
ever
jewels that the summer
shone
"

upon.

Slowly the procession

the line of those

did

this band

on

foot to

offer

less

forward

moved

keep
gay

to

allow

equal pace. Nor

and
pleasingsight

an

244

THE

than

FIELD

the

forms

clothed

in

the

banderols

picked guard
fcently dressed
carried in

bearer, and

officers
of

place in

In

of

the

splendidin

wealthy
rich
those

that

hung

round

in the

purse

in
be

to

was

seen

by

their

all, marshalled

by

company

the

came

them

had

who

admitted

sufficient
the

to

; for

the court,

before

and

their necks,

here

not

was

all the

in many

extravagance

that not

gold

many

long

terest
in-

meeting.

were

habited

the

by

band

to take

class, this company

furnished

rode

of

the

entitle

not

the field

of

tradesmen

of

but

inferior

garment,

carried

purpose,

did

be

to

an

and

of

their

rear

for the

Though
least

of

the

rank

court

the

seen

the banners

also

King

cavalcade,

the

at

Here

banner

whose

and

particularhouses

of the

appointed

those

be

England, magnifor the

the royal
occasion, with
their centre
by the deputy standard

the

ancient.

GOLD.

misdit

arm,

company.

the

own

here

and

of their

of each

banner

the

bosom

OF

sturdy English yeomanry,

splendid liveries of their
dered
family cognisance embroi-

various

lords, with
on

front

the

for

the

of

CLOTH

THE

cavalcade,

athletic

several

OF

ago

had

of

chain
lain

prodigal customer."
But we
being fullyof opinion with the old
cease,
chronicler
that
to tell the
apparel of the ladies,
their riche attyres, their sumptuous
juelles,their
their goodly behaviour
diversities of beauties, and
from
day to day sithe the fyrst metyng, I assure
some

"

you

ten

And
an

and

end
the

wittes

mennes

in
;

and

few

the pomp

was
revelry,

short

few

days, a

and
but

declare

scarce

can

as

the
a

it."

days,

all

was

at

pageantry, the mirth

dream

"

most

bitter,

indeed, and
bartered

painfuldream

we

Thus

go

wrong
we

may

For

of

of

England
the

render

them

nation
of its
were,

of

trewely,

would

of their

return

had

appear

begun

to

the
the

masters.

the

remove

endeavoured

castles, and

yet

to

in architecture

the
neither
the spiritnor
participated
of the men
gentlesovereign. The mansions
we

wood

of the

told, still sordid; the huts

are

and

generallythatched
the

salve

paraphernaliaof

commodious,

more

peasantry poor
where

the

nobles

fronts of their

or,

the

of Gold,"

on

martial

taste

had

alle."

sayen

Cloth

the

though

the

who

for

ful often

after the

Homely indeed,
homes

hundreds

fast after felicite

seken

We
But

Field

to

245

GOLD.

:
glitter
"

"

OF

substance

their

away

transient

CLOTH

THE

OF

FIELD

THE

was

earth, filled up

wretched.

The

former

were

buildingscomposed of timber,
of largeposts inserted in
scarce,
in the interstices with rubbish,

plasteredwithin, and covered on the outside with

coarse
clay. The latter were
lightframes, prepared
in

the

forest

at

small

probablycovered

with

and

expense,
mud.

In

when

erected,

cities the

houses

materials, for
mostlyof the same
bricks were
and the
still too costlyfor general use;
stories seem
to have
projectedforward as they rose
the
in height,interceptingsunshine
and
air from
beneath.
The
streets
stifling,
apartments were
lighted by lattices, so contrived as to prohibitthe
air.
occasional
of external
and
salutaryadmission
The
floors were
of clay,strewed with rushes, which
often remained
for years a receptacle
of every pollution.*
were

constructed

Henry.

246

THE

In

OF

FIELD

THE

OF

CLOTH

GOLD.

inventoryof the goods and chattels of Sir

Andrew
Foskewe, Knight, dated in the 30th year of
tures.
King Henry the Eighth, are the followingfurnian

We
which

the

select

he entertained

hall

and

the best
first

company,

parlour,in
premising that

he

possessed a large and noble service of rich

and
much
land as
so
plateworth an amazing sum,
proved him to be a wealthyman
;
The
hall.
A
hangin of greine say, bordered
with darneng (or needlework); item
a
grete side
table, with standinge tressels ; item a small joyned
cuberde, of waynscott, and a short piece of counter"

"

"

fett

carpett upon

large piece of

it ;

item

counterfett

and

cuberde,

square

wyndowe,

and

five formes,

"c.
"

Perler.

red, panede

item

verders

greyne

cushyns;
a pieceof
of

table with

carpet upon

two

it ; three

joyned cupberd, and

verders

counterfeit

carpet

carpett

in

say and
tressels, and a

of greene

Imprim., a hangynge

"

one

in the

verders

greyne

carpett upon

window,

other;

one

and

it ;

piece

Flemishe

joyned stooles ; a joyned forme; a

wyker skryne ; two large awndyerns, a fyerforke,
of tonges ; item a lowe joyned
a
a fyer pa*n,
payer
table of
stole; two joyned foote stoles ; a rounde
cipress;and a pieceof counterfeitt carpett upon it;
item a paynted table (or picture)of the Epiphany
chaire;

four

of

our

Lord.''

of
notwithstandingthis apparent meagreness
accommodation,
luxury in architecture was making
cent
Wolsey was as magnifirapid strides in the land.
Court,
in others, as Hampton
in this taste
as
But

Strutfs

Manners

and

Customs.

2riS

from
the

FIELD

THE

OF

THE

residence, and

the

CLOTH

ever-added

of a long line
liberality

it had

yet
and

obtained

OF

hold

splendourfrom

illustrious monarchs,

of

the

on

GOLD.

mind

which

is

even

passed away, although

not

fire, and

of

ages, have

the ravages
of time,
desecrations
of subsequent

the

left
scarcely

stone

or

of the

token

original

structure.

who

was

fire,however,

the

After

Henry

first built St. James's

forsook

Palace

it.

He

it

the site of

on

hospitalwhich had formerlystood there. He also

possessed,amongst other royal retreats, Havering
Bower, so called from the legend of St. Edward
ceiving
rea
ring from St. John the Evangelist on this
spot by the hands of a pilgrimfrom the Holy Land ;
which legend isrepresented
at lengthin Westminster
Abbey ; Eltham, in Kent, where the king frequently
passed his Christmas ; Greenwich, where Elizabeth
an

born

was

Woodstock,

and

for

unhappy fate
Rosamond, who long ago
"

Of

celebrated

Prov'd

the

unfortunate."

most

palace of the Savoy had changed its

destination
a
as
royalresidence only in his father's
the singleexception of Westminster
With
time.
the most
that
if indeed
magnificentpalace which
raised, which the finger
of liberality
ever
the hand
The

ancient

"

"

of taste

ever

the

changes

not

one

stone

things have
traverse

the

intervals,may

past, to think

to

which
remains

been.

spot, scarce

it has

been

"

one,

of
at

have

doomed, and

another

on

Now

indeed

Various

embellished.

the

to

say that

thousands

long and

been
now

such

who

far distant

of the
glance at the dim memories
of the plumed knights and high-born

dames

OF

FIELD

THE

CLOTH

THE

OF

revelled in its halls ; the

who

GOLD.

240

crowned

and

or
kings who, monarch
captive,trod its
chambers
paced its
; the gleaming warriors who
lofty
who caused its
embattled
courts ; the graciousqueen
of joy ; the subtle heads
walls to echo the sounds
which
happy
ploddedbeneath its gloomy shades ; the unfound
exiles who
a
refuge within its dim
or* the lame, the sick, the impotent,who
recesses;
of sufferingblessed
the home
in the midst
that

anointed

them, the

sheltered

hands

that

ministered

to their

woes.

No.

The

walls of the Savoy are

in the
majestic
dust, and not merely all trace, but all idea of its
radiant
gardens and sunny bowers, its sparkling
and

fountains

imaginationin

verdant
the

lawns, is lost

even

to

matter-of-fact, business-like

of the

the
meanour
de-

myriads of plodders who are ever

the dusty and bustling
environs of Waterloo-bridge.
traversing
In our
closets we
pel
perchancecommay
realities of the present to yield
the unromantic
beneath
the brilliant imaginationsof the past ; but
the spot itself it is impossible.
on
stand in WellingtonWho
can
street, on the verge
and fancyit a princelymansion,
of Waterloo-bridge,
of which
from the loftybattlements
a royal banner
retainers keep watch below ?
while numerous
is flying,
Probably the sounds of harp and song may be heard
as
loftynobles and courtlydames are seen to tread
the verdant
paths which
alleysand flower-bestrewn
lead to the brightand glancingriver,where
a
costly
barge (from which the sounds proceed)is waiting
*

It

was

at

length converted

into

an

hospital.
M

250

THE

FIELD

OF

THE

CLOTH

OF

GOLD.

these
distinguishedfreight. Ever and anon
are
seen
glidingalong in the sunbeams, or restingat
the avenue
leading to one or other of the noble
with which the bright strand is sprinkled.
mansions
Of these, perhaps, the most
is Yorkgorgeous
its

farthest in the distance

place,while

rise the fortified

walls of the old

to

those

of

rise,dimmed,
haze

palaceof Westminster,
the ancient
abbey, which

inferior
are

yet distinct,in the soft but

only
to

seen

glowing

around

by the settingsun.
And
that building seen
the oppositeside of
on
in a
the river ?
and
Strangely situated it seems,
of aspect
and
with none
of the felicity
swamp,
pertaining
apto its loftier neighbour,the Savoy. Yet
its loftytower, its embattled
to infer
gateway, seem
And
such
it had.
some
important destination.
The
placed edifice
unassuming and unattractively
its more
outlived
has
aspiring neighbours; and
while the stately
palace of the Savoy is extinct, and
of Westminster
the slightremains
desecrated,
are
walls of Lambeth
the time-honoured
yet shelter the
head of learning and dignify the location in which
reared.
they were
of our
Eastward
positionthe citylooks dim and
crowded ; but, with the exception of the sprinkled
cast

to which

mansions
the

break

we

natural

have

characteristics

Temple-bar and
and hospital
on
House

harmonise

cluster

of

and

that

cottages
beautiful

alluded, there is little

well

the West
the

of

the

Minster.

to

scene

tween
be-

The

mitage
her-

site of Northumberland

with

the

scene;

the

little

Charing has a rural aspect ;

of unand
failing
touching memento
at

love and undiminished

affection

"

that tribute

to

that

all

Cross,

which,

soiled

white

formed

"

would

that

Somewhat

where
the

hare

the

"fairy-cups1'and
they played
the

on

where

at

leaves,

they

flowers

to

that

"

shelter, and

where

the

the

to

in

seek"

in

the

trees,

of

yet

when

other

their

them,

tiny

barks

the

brim

the

where

harebells,

and

nestled

diamonds
the

on

chance
permoon

dew;

on

tinting the gossamer's

scattering pearls

the

over

ling
spark-

dawn

morning's

ere

in gay

hills northward,

they glittered like

breathing

silver, and

with

and

which

awaken

sky

the

filled

each

branches

on

and

out

could

revels

they

launched

rivulets,

their

hide

"

fawn

its watch

pledged

the

in

races

ran

held

where

bright ;

of faith

stands

envelop

timid

forget

fairies

yet, un-

as

brilliant

May-pole

which

the

yet

fearful

shone

the

woods

the

in the

the

"

it still !

nearer,

from

relief

had

we

woman

its emblem

silver

like

in

purest and,

raised

marble,

hope, gleaming

the

of

251

GOLD

OF

excellent

and

good

was

CLOTH

THE

OF

FIELD

THE

the
web

drops

of

dew.

around,

Closer
all sounds

the

by

encroachments

rural

of

emblems

agreeably varied,

but

are

and

meadows

among

of

not

and

pastures,

life ; which

as

are

yet

ruthlesslyannihilated,

population

and

the

increase

of trade.
this

Truly

is

difficult

Waterloo-bridge, yet
correct

time

one

of

-The

of

this
Field

is

it

portion
of the

picture

nevertheless
of

our

Cloth

realise

to
a

tolerably-

metropolis
of Gold."

on

at

the

252

CHAPTER

XVI.

NEEDLE.

THE

"

grave

His

"

Reformer

garment

With

of old Rents

J. Taylor,

decay'd."
"

"

thornes

togetherpind

and

was."

patched

Faerie

Hodge.

"

Tush,

tush, her

neither
A

flesh

neele,

nor

lytlething with

her

ueele, her

Queene.

neele,

man

tys

fish,

syller,
Small, long, sharp

in the

hole

an

at

the

ende,

bright

as

point,and

as

any

straightas

any

piller."
Diccon,

"

I know

not

it is thou

what

menest, thou

bringstme

more

in doubt."

Hodge.

Knowest

"

not

what

Tom

tailor's

neele,a neele, a neele,my

It is said in the
arrival of Anne

old
of

chronicles

Bohemia,

among
have

; but

the
been

as

it is known

earlyBritish,
opened numbers

ivorypins were

found

that

previousto

Queen

"

Richard

of

pins
neat

been

the
the

their robes with

since in the
of

is gone.
Needle.

Gurton's

that

to have

neele

gammer's

Second, the English ladies fastened

ewers

broching thro'

clout ?

Gammer

sh

sits

man

in

were

barrows

and

used

use

that

efficient*'
in arrang-

ing

253

NEEDLE.

THE

probablethat

the grave- clothes, it is

this remark

is unfounded.
The

pins of

of boxwood,

later date than

the above

ivory,and

bone,

They

were

larger

which

seem

to have

about

the middle

than

of the

those

been

few

some

of the fifteenth

however, the manufacture

of

England
In

century.

pins had

of brass

silver.

present day,

in

unknown

made

were

sale

it

enacted,

was

pins, but

any

headed

and

That

".

the

shank, the pins well smoothed,

fast

to

the

to

the shank

and

by

double

be

soldered

head

of the

year
shall put

person
shall
as

such

only

have

no

1543,

become

sufficiently
important to claim the attention
Act having been passed that
an
legislature,
which

till

well

sharpened."
Gloucestershire

for the number

is noted

of its

pin

manufactories.

in that
first introduced
They were
county, in 1626, by John Tilsby; and it is said that
send up
at this time theyemploy 1,500 hands, and
to the
nually.
metropolis upwards of "20,000 of pins an-

Our

motto
u

and

With

French

that his

says, however,
thornes

togetherpiad

writer

of steel needles

that

says,

usage

indispensabledans

une

est

;"

the invention
make

since

petit outil

des

ce

before

that

but

ment

societes,

patched was

obligedto

people were

thorns, fish bones, "c,

and

garment

C(

use

of

l'etablisse-

devenu

d'un

infinite d'arts et d'oc-

casions."
He
l'un

proceeds:

"

"

l'autre

pratiqueavec

deux

De

toutes

d'attacher

flexibles, celle qui

corps

1'aiguille
est

les manieres

une

des

se

plus universelle-

254

NEEDLE.

THE

repandues : aussi distingue-t'-onun

grand
xiombre
differentes.
On a les aiguilles
a
d'aiguilles
de
de chirurgie,
tailleur ; les aiguilles
coudre, ou
ment

dartillerie, de

bonnetier,

de bas

faiseur

ou

au

tier,
me-

de cirier,de drapier,de gainier,

de
d'horloger,
perruquicr,de coiffeuse,de faiseur de coifFe
perde piqueur d'etuis, tabatieres, et autres
ruques,
a

semblables

de brodeur, de

amatelas,
a

de chandellier, d'emballeur
tapissier,

relier,a natter,

boussole

presser,

aimantee,

ou

"c."

Needles

by
lost

are

native

his

at

said to bave

death

Damar,

Crendon,

Long

has

from

on

Thomas,

present Lord

Bucks, where

in

carried

been

the

of

ancestor

that

the

time

by

settled with

was

children, Elizabeth, John, and

his three
Mr.

who

was

recovered

however,

it was,

land
Eng-

the art

India, in 1545, but

of

in

first made

been

ChristopherGreening, in 1560,

at

soie,

en

aempointer, atricoter, aenfiler, a

brocher,

"c.

de sellier,d'ouvrier

ouvrages;

by

Milton,

manufactory
the

to

present

period.*
Thus

readers

our

the sixteenth

will remark,

century, there

that until far

not

was

foreign manufacture
; and
in mind,
circumstance
they will be
more
fullyinto the feelingsof those
but

had

of

value

inestimable
told

are

we

It is worth

of the

course

of them

while

needle.

be

to remark

true,

the

And,
needles

thrown

are

laid

of three

promiscuouslytogether,mixed
parallel,heads
or

four

minutes.

to

needle

able

to

who

set

heads,

and

be

this

enter

such

indeed, if all
could

fact but
and

to

bearing

circumstance, that by

simplestconstruction,being nothing in

needles
way,

on

in

on

machine

tray, 20,000

entangled in

points to

be

not

every

points,in

the

256

THE

We

give this
naval

though

NEEDLE.

incident

officer ;

testimony of a gallant
unquestionable authority,

an

that some
fullyaware
be
and
ungenerously sceptical,
vile
enough to attempt some

may
rude
brave

sailor's

one

time

of

are

we

have

we

when

readers

our

perhaps even
the

about

pun

drawing a long yarn."

"

If,however,, Gammer
the

the

on

Gurton's

justreferred

needle,

needle

to, and

resembled

that, too,

at

dowed,
supernaturallyenof English manufacture,
not to be had
was
could only be purchased probably at
and therefore
wonder
at the aggrieved
a
high price,we cannot
feelingsof her domestic circle when the catastrophe
which is depictedas follows :
The
occurred
parties
a

not

even

"

interested

the Dame

were

Gurton

Gammer

herself;

Hodge, her farming man

; Cocke,
; Tib, her maid
her boy ; and Gib, her cat.
The
play from which
our
sions
pretenquotationis taken is not without some
kind : it is supto wit, though of the coarsest
posed
lege,
first performed at Christ's Colbeen
to have
observes on
Cambridge, in 1566; and Warton
while

it, that

Latimer's

Gammer

court,

tolerated

Gurton's

at the
Act

Hodge.

ci

I had

And
Tib.

I'm

need

then

worse

I'm

Scene

I.

needle

the

in vogue

at

well

be

might

me

were

but

chid, I'm

not

what

well before

I go

spiritmay

haunt

noddy

mad, by the

than

Tib.

and

I wot

masse.

felon

some

Hodge

3.

blesse

Perchance,

were

university.

agast,by

am

sermons

to venter

masse,

blam'd, and

do;

to

them
our

to

house

where's

to be at this

beaten

no

indeed,
need."

stay.

all th' hours

on

the

day.
Lamed

Having

and
no

ragges."

hunger starved,prickedup
patch

to hide

my

backe,

all in
save

jagges,
a

few

rotten

THE

I say,

"(

Hodge.

What
Tib.

**

devil make

Truly. Hodge,
while

is

Cocke,

good

dame

our

thou

turn

tbou

sure

wart

be,
thee

and

this

here

not

?*'

for

of

some

have

to

us

hence

been

of course,

out

so

boy, and

our

frantike

and

felt it

have

wench,

poor

all at once,
on

bones."

"What

is the

so

She

had

better

Gammer

our

Tib.

I trow

as

That

Hodge.

Tib,

is this between

ado

thou

been

mile

My

be

It had

"

f thou

Tib,

257

NEEDLE.

undone,

If she

hear

Shall

taketh

she

Tib, whereat

on,

?"

ou

is

matter, say

she

of

not

never

saith

within

dead,

but

saith

inch

lips,on

her

is gone:

joy

is she

comfort, she

some

come

life and

(alas)her

of

meat

ne

bread.
And

heavy, heavy

is her

grief,as, Hodge,

shall

all

we

feel.""
"

Hodge.

My

conscience, Tib,

neele
"

Hodge.
Tib.

t(

Hodge.

Her

Her
u

?''

neele?"

Tib.

him

neele,by
How

made
this

came

!"

me

unto

(say Tib)

chaunce

her

Gammer

My

that

murrain

dame
"

lost her

never

neele."
Her

"

has

Gammer

my

her

sat

down

pes, and

the

on

bade

reach

me

thy breches,
And

and

by

by,

she

it,or

on

vengeance

had

take

two

stitches
To

clout

And

the

knee, by

cat,in

the milk

upon

Gib

our

chaunce

aside she lears,

she

pan,

head

spied over

and

ears.

Ah

breeches

Up

town

since

and
staffe,

that

malison

light on
And

swapt

the

leapt

out

Gib

into the

at doors

time

was

she

have

wight

never

cold

set

their eyes

it.

God's

Hodge.

aloud, and

upon

"

cried

down,
her

went

And

out, theefe, she

out,

is not

shuld

wear

Cocke

and

I bid

twentie

times

it."
then

?"

my

breches

sewed

up, to-morrow

that

258
Tib.

THE

"

NEEDLE.

No, in faith,Hodge, thy breches

lie,for

all this

the

never

near."

Hodge.

"

Now

have
The

cat, the house, and

she

have

shold

maid,

our

that

better

should

crawling!

Come

thy

on

come

on,

made

fair

daies

worke, have

? pray

not

you

say."

you,

I.

Scene

4.

Alas, alas,I

"

Tib

cometh

lagging way

Gammer.

better

it.

swept

Se, where

Act

al the sort, that

kept it ;

have

Ye

light on

vengeance

This

Gammkk,
well

may

that

day,

and

curse

ever

Tib, Cocke.

Hodge,

ban

Gib

it,with

saw

milke

the

and

pan.
For

ill lucke

these,and

knoweth

together,as

Cocke

my

boy,
Have

stacke

fair

My
The

Hodge.

"

dear

my

neele, and

long straightneele,

first

Might

away

ha

day

of my

kept it

had

ye

me

mine

sure,
only trea-

was

last of my

is,and

sorrow

when

that

of my

rob'd

pleasure.',

fools will be fools

it; but

still :
Lose

is fast in your

that

hands

? ye

need

not, but ye

will."
"

Gommer.

Go

hie

the, Tib, and

along, to

run

th' end

here

of the

town.
Didst

it down

And

in

thy lap ? seek

where

thouporest

thou

as

dust

out

carry

sawest

roking

me

in

the

ashes

leave

no

where

raorned,
So

Hodge.

"

Your

in

see

neele

all the

heap

of

dust

lost? it is pitieyou

thou

shold

lacke

care

straw

turned."
un-

andendles

sorrow.

Tell wme,
thus
Gammer.

"

how

to-morrow

shall

reed,

breches

be

sewid

shall

I go

?"

Ah, Hodge, Hodge,

the

my

if that

I could

find

my

neele, by

THE

I'd

thy breches, I promise the,

sew

double
And

259

NEEDLE.

full

with

good

threed,

set

patch

either knee, shall last this months

on

twain,
Saint

and

God,

Now

Sithe,

I pray,

it back

send

to

again."
Hodge.

"

your hands

served

Whereto

eyes, but your

neele

keep

devil had

What

and

els

you

do ? ye

to

keep,

wot,

no

sheep.
abrode

fain

I'm

delve,in water, mire

and

dig

to

and

clay,
Sossing and possing in
hundred

weel

And

things

that

dirt,still from day

the

I'm

abroad,

be

set

to

day

to see

them

of

four

sit idle at

you

and

home,

keep

cannot

neele."
time

neele, alas, I lost,Hodge, what

"My

Gammer.

me

up

hasted,
To

milk

save

for thee, which

set up

Gib

cat

our

hath

wasted."

Hodge.

"

devil he take

The
I'm

always

Gib

both
of

sure

the

and
worst

with

Tib,

all the rest;

whoever

end,

have

the

best.
Where

ha

ben

you

fidgingabroad,

since

your neele

you

lost?"
u

Gammer.

Within

the

house,

and

at the

door, sitting
by

this

same

post ;
I

Where

near

Gammer

"

wel

at

have

away

! all

was

in

neele

vain, my

is

never

the

Needle,"

Gurton's
in

says

five acts, built

Hazlitt,
on

i(

is

the circumstance

having lost her needle

throws the whole village
into confusion, tillit
last providentially
lucky
found
stickingin an unThis must
evidently
part of Hodge's dress.
of
happened at a time when the manufactures
of

is

folke

!"

regular comedy,
which

these

here ;

came

But,

lookinga long hour, before

was

an

old

woman

260

NEEDLE.

THE

the
Birmingham had not reached
height of perfectionwhich they have at present
done.
Suppose that there is onlyone sewing needle
in a village,that the owner,
a
diligentnotable old
dame, loses it, that a mischief- making wag sets it
Sheffield

about

and

old

another

that

of household

instrument
search
and

then

scold it out
and

shall

we

perhaps,not
authentic

document

gossip Dame
of these

have

Chat;

curate;

be reckoned
no

one

the

Dickon

end

blows,

rities,
higherauthoidea
(though,
in this

passes

and

(the

Bedlam

Gurton's

Gammer
her

Cocke,

in

to

Gurton

the

boy;
'prentice
Dr.

Baillie, his master;

the cat, who

Gib,

of the dramatis

needle

the needlework
this

vain,

fairly

may
and

personce,

forms
per-

part."

mean

From

and

for it in

Gammer

harms); Hodge,

Tyb, her maid;

Scapethrift;Master

Eat, the

of what

between

servant;
Doll

exact

an

a
one)
lively

so

strict

partiessallyforth

open air, till words

affair is referred over
to the

the

causer

in- doors

in the

and

her

stolen this valuable

industry,that

every where
the incensed

is made

that

has

woman

which

itself the
was

in

transition

is easy

at the time

vogue

when

and rare
valuable
so
implement was
told that the various kinds
are
commodity. We
needlework
rated^
practisedat this time would, if enume-

little

astonish
ladies.

modern

even

The

that the term

him,
with

Mr.

to

and

the

most

lover

of

industrious

of

Shakspeare

will

point device

that, indeed, it

is often used

of

our
member
re-

by

frequentlymet
in the writers of that age with various applications
it is originally
derived, according to
; and
of the ladies.
Douce, from the fine stitchery
is

term

THE

It has

261

NEEDLE.

been

properlystated, that point device signifies

exact, nicely,
finical;but nothing has been
offered concerning the etymology, except that we
It has, in
got the expression from the French.
fact, been suppliedfrom the labours of the needle.
the

in

Poind,
devise

any

Point

devise

French

language, denotes a stitch ;

thing invented, disposed,or arranged.
sort of pattherefore,a particular
was,
terned

lace worked

likewise

their

But

it is

to

and

the

female.

every

term

They

point-coupe,point-compte,dentelle

V aiguille,
"c.

point devant

cm

the needle

is still familiar

j)ointlace
had

with

"c.

apparent, he adds, that the

expression
secondarysense,

in a
applicable,
to whatever
was
uncommonly exact, or constructed
with the nicety and
precisionof stitches made
or

became

point devise

devised

the needle.

with

Various

books

assistance

and

of

his

those

of them, and

some

would

notation

of the

encouragement

published in

were

of needlework

patterns

be

days.

Mr.

fair stitchers

Douce

the omission

for the

rates
enume-

of any

part of

the

present

book,

under

unpardonablein

work.
The
the

earliest

title of

fanciulle

et

"

the list is

on

Esemplario di

altre donne

imparare il modo
mare,

lodevili
con

opere,

laco

Vinegia,
mdxxix.

in

le

mano,

qualipo
con

dove

le tenere

potranno facilmente

di lavorare, cusire,racca-

far tutte

Nicolo
per
8vo."
*

lavori:

nobile

et ordine

finalment

et

Italian

an

et
quelle gentillezze

fare

li suoi

compasse

D'Aristotile

vol.
Illustrations,

donna

una

detto

ii. p. S2.

virtuosa
et misure.

Zoppino,

262

NEEDLE.

THE

The

that

next

du
pourtraicts

tien, pour
Paris, 1588.

1599

had

second

Catherine

de

nouveaux

de

Veni-

lingerie.

the

to

an

Queen

of

already twice published.

part

by

de Vinciolo

d'ouvrages

be met

contains

sometimes

singulierset

Federic

been

forth

set

It is dedicated

and

difficult to

more

Les

sortes

4to."

of France,

"

Seigneur

toutes

likewise

was

entitled,

Italian, and

In

occurs

out, which

came

with

than

the former,

of

sister

the

Bourbon,

and
of

Gaultier,

portrait,by

neat

is much

the

Henry

Fourth.
The

is

next

dantelles

et

coupe

Imprime

not

industrious

be

to

et

1598.

ladies, and

the

damsels

inventez

Montbeliard,

to

does

en

nouvellcment

forme,

pourtraictsde point
et grande
petite moyenne

Nouveaux

"

4to."

It has

the

but

Vincentio's

appear.

lumiere.

en

dress
ad-

an

exhorting young

poem
;

mis

author's

work

name

published

was

printed by John Wolfe, under the

New
and Singular Patternes
and
Workes
title of
all sortes of
of Linnen, servingfor paternes to make
lace, edginges, and cutworkes.
Newly invented for
of ladies,gentilwomen,
the profiteand contentment
and

England,

in

"

and
He

that

others

also

seems

desireous

are

to

have

of this Art.

printed it

1591.

with

4to."

French

title.
We

then

have

another

this is the title :

Here

foloweth
and

newly invented
Also, sundry sortes

of Cutworkes
before.

birdes, and

wrought,
some

"

English book,

with

fishes, "c,
some

with

crewell

and

gould,

in coullers

of
will
some

or

certaine
never

spots,

of which
Patternes

published
as

fitlyserve
with

flowers,
to

be

silke, and

otherwise

at your

2G4

THE

d'onvrages dc Lingerie.

scrtes

NEEDLE.

Declie

la

Reyne.

Paris, 1578."*
The

book

with

opens
them

to

announces

to the

sonnet

admirable

an

fair,which

motive

for the

itself:

work

"

"

Pour

tromper

Dames

Aux

ennuis, et l'esprit
employer."

vos

et Damoiselles.
Sonnet.

11

s'efforce

L'un

Quand
me

Et

de faire si bum,

"

sen

grand

Ces

tromper
ceste

gre

les honneurs.

langueurs,

mes

petitesse,

en

ie delaisse

Dames
mes

labeurs.

graves

ie

(mes Dames)

vous

prie,

dedie,
lesquelsie vous
ennuis, et l'esprit
employer.

vos

nouveaute, pourrez

Et

maistresses

Le

travail est

Which,

fin

en

beaucoup apprendre,

cest

en

ceuvre

plaisant:Si grand

rendre,

vous

est le

loyer."

barring elegant diction

be read

may

en

en

altesse,

pourtrais
ouvragez

Pour
"En

contentement

doncques

Prenez

qu'aux

en

chasser

pour

satisfaict de vivre

Je

Un

alleche

seulement

moy,

grlidsSeigneurs

monter

pour

la guerre

l'autre,par

des

coeur

exquiserichesse

une

aspireauxestats,

L'autre

"

fin

possederen

Pour

Et

gaigner le

thus

Whilst
As

This,

one

and

poeticrule,

"

worships lordlystate

man

desires

yieldingall

that he

fertile

begs from

acres

"

fate ;

Another, bloody laurels fires.

To

dissipate
my

Trifles,I'm

This

in Mr.

seems

Douce?s

satisfied to do;

For

surelyif

My

very labours
to be

list.

devils blue,

the

fair I
smack

somewhat

please,
of

ease.

earlier edition of the second

book

then, fair ladies,I

Take

hook

The
To

There's

Which
And

Proceed

which

make

lay,
gay.

may learn anew,

ilfautwill render you,

much

here

you

comme

to

pr^y,

hrisk and

hringyou joy and

we

you

feet I

at your

happy,

you

265

NEEDLE.

THE

the

honour

too.

"

Ouvrages de point Coupe/' of which there are

Some
birds, animals, and
thirty-six.
figuresare
introduced; but the patterns are chiefly
arabesque,
thick black ground.
set off in white, on
a
of the ornamented
titleThen, with a repetition
about
come
fiftypatterns,which are reprepage,
sented
"

much

day, in
some

as

like the German

patternsof

the

present

wrought
squares for stitches,but not so finely
shall presentlynotice.
which
These
we

patternsconsist

birds, beasts,
arabesques,figures,
the stitches are
flowers, in every variety. To many
thus :
ready counted (as well as pourtrayed),
Ce Pelican
contient en
longueur 70 mailles, et
65."
This pattern of maternityis reprehauteur
en
sented
as
pecking her breast, towards which three
ones
are
being indicated
flying;their course
young
by the three lines of white stitches,all converging
nest.
to the living
of

"

"

Ce

Griffon

Small

logueur67."
who
animal
"

Ce

hauteur
"

La

cotient

does

hauteur

en

must

en

be the skill of the needlewoman

make

not

58 mailles, et

this

very

rampant

indeed.
Paon

contient

en

longueur 65 mailles,et

en

61."

Licorne

longueur 62,

en

hauteur

cotiet 44

mailles, et

"c. "c."
N

en

266

THE

NEEDLE.

"

La

bordure

contient

"

La

bordure

de haut

handsome

very
Ce

rich

very

cotiet

contient

these

mailles."
35 mailles."

This

is

resembling-pine apples.

one,

quarre
of

25

65 mailles."
and

squares,

There

borders

are

veral
se-

appended,

of

patterns.

But

the book

vocation

must

contains

far

ambitious

designs.
There
Sol, Luna, Mars, Mercury Jupiter,A^enus,
are
Saturn, Neptune, and others, whose
dignitiesand
be

inferred

more

the

from

emblematical

accompaniments.
There

is

La

Deesse

des fleurs

representant le

printemps."
"

La

Deesse

des Bleds

"

Ce

Baccus

representant l'Autonne."

representant Teste."

Ceste

figurerepresentant l'hiver,""c. "c.

Appended is this Extraict du Privilege."
Per grace et privelegedu Roy, est permis a Jean
le Clerc le jeune, tailleur dhistoires
Paris, d'ima
primer ou faire imprimer veclre et distribuer un livre
intitule livre de patrons de Lingerie, Dedie
la
a
nouvellement
invente
Royne,
par le Seigneur Fe"

"

""

deric

de

Vinciolo

Venitien,

Libraires, Imprimeurs,
et

terme

dudict

le

neuf

ans

de

primez,et
declare

douziesme

ledict Livre

vente

en

de

tous

damande
en

Clerc,

et

ce

de

quelque

tous
dition
con-

faire ny contrefaire,

pocher

agradir,ou

confiscation

est

autres,

ou

qualitequilzsoyent, de

aptisserny
exposer

deffences

avec

lesdits

sans

figures,ny

le coge

jusques

ou

mission
per-

temps

au

et

accomplis,sur peine de
imles livres qui se trouveront
arbitraire : comme
plus a plein

finis et

lettres

patentes, donnees

jour de Novembre,

1587."

Paris

ce

preservedin the British Museum,

Strasbourg,1596, seemingly from

work,

Another

267

NEEDLE.

THE

publishedat
These
Vinciolo.
consist of
designs of the same
about
six-and-thirty
plates,with patterns in white
on
a black
ground, consistingof a few birds and
of stars and wreaths
but chiefly
pricked out
figures,,
in every
possiblevariety;and at the end of the
book
a dozen
richlywrought patterns, without any
edging, were seeminglydesignedfor what we should
was

call "insertion"

now

is another,

There
Basil

work

1599, which

in

the

by

lace.

or

author, printed

same

but

varies

from
slightly

at

the

foregoing.
who

person
de

was

Medicis,
of

art

ruffs

summoned

to instruct

nettingthe

the

is doubtless

France,

to

by

Catherine

the ladies of the court

lace of which

the then

same

in the

fashionable

made.

were

In another
"

de Vinciolo

Frederick

This

Corona

volume
delli

dimostra

have

we

Nobili

et

"

virtuose

Donne,

nel

varijDissegni tutte le sorti di

Mostre
di punti tagliati,
punti in Aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Reticelle, e d' ogni altre sorte, cosi
Y Aco
si
per Freggi,per Merli, e Rosette, che con
usano
hoggidiper tutta Y Europa.
E molte delle qualiMostre
servire anpossono
cora
per opere a Mayzette.
quale si

in

"

"

da

Con

le dichiarationi

le Mostre

Lavori

fatti

Lugretia Romana.
"

In Venetia

The

appresso
plates here are

above-mentioned

Alessandro

very similar
works.
Some
are

di Vecchi, 1620."
to

those

in the

accompanied by
n2

268

THE

short
and

explanations,saying where
whom

to

they

Hopera

"

NEEDLE.

Duchese,

Bellissima,
altre

et

suited,

best

are

they are

che

il

per

Signore

si

as

used

most

"

le

Signore

per

li suoi

piu

servono

lavori."
bellissime

Queste

"

Venetiane

donne

da

contains

It

patterns

all,or

are

to, and
before

the

guides

the

them

sending
this

state,

the

the

Germans

and

patterns

traced

the

of

is,

Mr.

gentil-

which

book

of

the

we

are

the
this

from

jealousy of

the

work.

or

the

work.

treme
ex-

few

referring to
the

not

of their
similar

some

dern
mo-

fully
beauti-

work;
of

the

under

sun."
a

Needle's
John

two

or

Some

now

idea

polite

one

admire

doubt

we

it

seldom

are

Street,
but

not

milar
si-

though

through

seen,

are

patterns

which,

having

that

borrowed

German

"

As

the

very

proof of the truth

thereby adding one more
is nothing new
There
oft quoted proverb,
the

The

"

Douce's

being

These

Regent

beauty

patterns

on,

could

we

in the

artists have

kind
in

them

work.

have

we

extremely similar,

so

are

put

defaces

delicacyand
of the

is

Wilks,

of Mr.

attention

the
to

of

many

but

le

nearly all, arabesque. They

colouring

uncoloured,

in

of

equally fine with,

eye,

anco

variety of plates,of

beautifullyexecuted,

seen

work

best

Excellency,1' referred

Needle's
list.

usano

far traverse."

certainlythe

But

Rosette

this

fittingclose

to

praisesin

full, as

Taylor,

and

chapter,

sung

prefixed

to

by
the

the

we

give
water

the

poet,

last-mentioned

The
"

To

all

I write
So

Praise

dispersedsorts
the

needles

of arts and

prayse

So
So

logg

Their

long

Of

their

Yea

till the world

though

from

earth

Yet

through

the

fire he

unto

He's

true

He

hath

Yet

like

As

with

those

that

as

indeed,I

by

yeare:

spoile,

gaine shall toyle:

and

past,

shall last

use

did his honour

his service

mettle

win

lacke,
backe

to the

see, small

singlesight,
in

pigmy, Polipheme

shall bear

being did begin,

his

doe

Steele and

worne,

or

exhausted

needles

And

And

made

quitedissolv'd

be

least,the

at

be

entrailes for man's

own

long

(thatnever fades)
be got or borne,

fleeces yeare

silkwormes,

as

trades,

flax,or sheep

or

linnen wollen

So

So

hemp

Needle.

the

of

long as children shall

long as garments shall
as

269

NEEDLE.

THE

fight:

captaine,bravely he leades on,

(Not fearingcolours)tillthe worke be done,
stout

With

as

Maim'd
So

from

when

No

the

more

It is

And

for my

That

tailor's

kinde

their

use

Stops

of the

(though it

it is both
grave

like,
pike.

enlargetheir store,
their needles

and

And

thus

We

should

No

shirts

No

garments

small

and

and

seames

without

the
our

smockes,

more.

gay,

we

bibs and

to make

of

measure.

slender)
:

decay'd,

'd,
desperate cuts display

needle

our

out

and

mender

of old rents

without

or

tongue, bites

be but

maker

Reformer

holes

done,

sharpnesse,profityields,and pleasure,

sharpnesse

is

other

no

tongues lesse,and

But

Yet

use

their peace,

needles

needle

his lance

should

gone,

advance,

quiet,I should

countries

women

to

and

retreat ;

his worke

maim'd,

honour

or
javelin,

The

he's

the needles

It will increase
To

point is broke,

point MounsieuT)

And

is forc'd to make

warres

needles

sharpely set,
conquestget.
heat)

(Frenchefyde with

souldier

is most

he

through stitch,he will the

speed

And

thinne

thicke and

Through

may

biggins bee

nakednesse
us

see

to

hide,

magnifide :

270

THE

No

NEEDLE.

shadowes, shapparoones,caules,bands, ruffs,

kuffs,
kerchiefes,quoyfes,chinclouts,or marry-mu
fifes,

No
No

croscloaths, aprons, handkerchiefes, or falls,

No

table-cloathes,for parlours or

No

sheetes,no

Nor

Of

is

needle

And

mighty

or

their

as

The

needles

And

as

So

Than

ladies

As

exercise

more

honour

hath

The

in

For

is

since

generation unto

With

work

That

Aaron's

most

it doth

For
As

if it

sons

rare,

were.

broidered

and

gay,

art,so
her

were

recreation,
embroidered

did bid

worke

trulyis

in

be ;

should

behold.

regard,

frame,

like to nature

sister,or the

see,

declar'd

still bin

hath

we

should

his vestments

gloriousto

most

worke

needles

The

man

generation.

garments

plainlyand

Thus

to

man

Almighti'sgreat command,

the

made

Be

for

of the tabernacle

further, God

And

from

like cherubims

by

began,

it runs
successively

From

And

their daughters,sires their

and
generall profit,

covers

dayes,

itselfe expresse

it is enrold

text

taught

The

praise,

exceeding old,

descended

line

grow,

show.

in these

first in Paradise

mothers

Thus

of

dailydoth

sewing

parents

Who

did

to idlenesse.

in the sacred

Our

the children

take,

to

make,

did

esteeme

an

then

enemy
of

use

such

hand

daughters daughters up

this ? which

The

grac'din

have

queenes

deserves

mortall

weares.

instrument

of ornament.

art,they to

'twas

what

woman

prov'd an

borne

high

That

man

profit,
pleasure, and

Which

halls,

towels, napkins,pillowbeares,

garment

any

Thus

for

same.

and bees,
beasts,birds,flyes,
Flowers,plantsand fishes,

Hills, dales, plaines,

pastures,skies,seas, rivers,trees
There's
But
In

with

the

clothes

Men's
That
Yet

nothing
of

needle
arras

at hand,

neere

be

may
I have

figur'dcounterfeits
if the

partiesselfe

art would

vie with

had
nature

faithest

shap'd and

often
so

or

sought,

wrought.

seene,

like have
been

in

for the

beene,

place,
grace

272
THE

And

in

With

as

maids

For

here

And

in

Until,

(With

For

leave

from

time,

cherish
these

and

worke,

and

ornament,
banish

ends,

this
may

of

idleness

booke

another,

which

fiom

mother)

their

learne

to

stitch

is

to

which,
stitch,

shall

in

them

have

may
not

tree,

or

perfect
workes

these

to

practise

them

vertue,

tree

choice
to

free.

be

mistresse

delightful

that

for

from

worke,

store.

some

before.

may

make

make

these

seene

their

worke

hoping
serve

one

may

profit)

Thus

To

(from

they

skip

never

skips

squirrel

to

of

are

invention

and

may

Learne

there

others,

practise

And

To

booke

many

Here

So

this

NEEDLE.

for

all.

this

guide,

pride:
e,

have

good

successe."

273

CHAPTER

FROM

TAPESTRY

"

For, round
With

about, the

the rich metal

As

fainingto

Yet

here,and

It shew'd

Like

lo'

yclothedwere
great majesty,

envious

shone

di"colour'd

Snake,

eye;

where

every

itselfe and

unwares

unwillingly;
whose

hidden

snares

long bright burnisht

his

gras

nere,

privily,

from

there, and

close and

so

lurked

be hidd

the greene

Through

CARTOONS.

THE

walls

goodly Arras of
with gold and silk

Woven
That

XVII.

back

declares."

Faekie

whose

Raphael,

is familiar to all

name

as

hold
house-

equallycelebrated
for a handsome
an
engaging address,an
person,
guage
Lanamiable
disposition,and
high talents.
the
exhausts
itself in his eulogy.* But
word,"

For

example :
di
dagnarsiil cuore
Papa
sero

le

intatt"j;

nascere

a'

Egli avea

tutto.

pitturein una
i suoi
giustoverso
dtl

tenuto

sempre

Rispettosoverso

sue

tempi

been

Bonarruoti;

volta delle

un

contegno

il maestro,
camere

da

ottenne

Vaticane

guadal

rimanes-

ringraziavaDio d' averlo fatto

i discepoli
graziosoverso
gl'istrui
anche
verso
gl' ignoti,a chiunque

emuli

figli
; cortese
1' opera sua,
ricorse a lui per consiglio
e
presto liberalmente
per far
al altrui o
dar
gl'indirizzo la^cio indietro talvolta i lavori
dist'gni
differhla."
ma
non
Lanzi,
sapendo non pure di negar grazia,
propri,
e

gli amo

'"'

"

che

to

seems

have

"

Queene.

come

"

vol. ii.

Consequentlywhen

his body

before interment

lay in
N

the

room

274

TAPESTRY

taken

in

CARTOONS.

THE

of

encomiums

extravagant
be

FROM

Lanzi

and

sense,

ere

modified

very

others

must

arrive at

we

of morals
The
in Italy did
tone
rigidtruth.
phael's
not
correspond with evangelicalpurity;" and Rafollies were
not
couraged
merely permitted,but enand fostered by those who sought eagerly
for the creations
thousand
of his pencil. His
gaging
enwere
disfiguredby a licentiousness
qualities
which
probably shortened his career, for he died at
the earlyage of thirty-seven.
Great
and
the
sincere was
grief expressed at
Rome
for his untimely death, and
no
testimony of
could
be
sorrow
more
more
affecting,
simple, or
the
its object than
to
more
highly honourable
his
over
placing his pictureof the Transfiguration

the

"

mortal
which
a

in the chamber

remains

he

accustomed

was

his works:

"

bene

mette

come

quellemosse,

sue

ardiscono

sperano,

mono,

alia

storia

che

crede
accendere, prende partito,
nel silenzio ;

ogni attore, II

picciolimovimenti
vivi

piu

modi

cento

ratteri
il

senza

volgar

da

descrive in
"(

eta

whose

mai

dalla
e

"

nella

del

ogni passione;

violenza:

cio ch'

naturale,e

proprieta. L'

quel

pochissimitrath

che

front e

non,

1' ingegno

si

Tutto

parla

ha scritto ; i
dita

bocca, della

gesti piu animatie

piu,

essi variano

attemperano a

eroe

si sente

ha movimenti

cento
da

suo

thought

us.

ingegno,tutto
this

designs

are

in
ca-

eroe,

descriverebbe
e

gli elementi, gli animali,

del

finest
to

immagine;

in sul fatto.

occhie

orgoglio,

que' volti,que' guardi,

una

di trovarsi

d'

Papa."

1' arte
le

lingua ne penna,
di Raffaello."
p. 65.

fabbriche, le manifatture,

tutte comprese
dell'uomo, ogni condizione, ogni affetto,

la divinita
I have

mai

volgare ;

II paese,

ogni

uscir

uscir

senza

moti
la

descrivono

ne

ha

innanzi

degli occhi, degli narici, della

corrispondonoa' primi

artefice che

languiscono,te-

amano,

chi mira

negli

cor

died.

ira, placabilita,
umilta,

spesso

si duro

pianse

Ne

figureveramente

; mostrano

si ricorda

non

"

"

Le

"

"

he

v' ebbe

Non

paint,

to

lagrimasse."

nou
quellospettacolo

Of

wherein

ridusce

piu bello."

long

extract

pardonable

now,

through

so

many

"

p. 71.

applied to
channels,rendered
as

con

one

miliar
fa-

It

275

CARTOONS.

THE

FROM

TAPESTRY

close of

of the

probablywithin

two

his short

life when

engaged by Pope

Tenth

paint those

was

to

all his
render

he

was

which

cartoons

his

immortalised

works

years

the brief hints

name,

the

more

than

and

which

him
given respecting

have

we

have

Leo

peculiarly
appropriateto this work.
from Scripture
The
cartoons
were
chiefly,
designs,
from
the

which

be

to

were

apartments

hangings

woven

of the Vatican

and

to

ornament

their dimensions

being of course
proportionedto the spaces they
were
designedto fill,the tapestries,
though equalin
height,differed extremely in breadth.
The
designs were,
1. The
Nativity.
of the Magi.
2. The Adoration
4."The

Slaughterof

the Innocents.

6. The

Presentation

in the

7. The

Miraculous

5.J
Draught of Fishes,
receivingthe Keys.

8. St. Peter
9. The

10.

Descent

The

Temple.

of Christ

into Limbue

Resurrection.

11. Noli

tangere.

me

12. Christ

at Emmaus.

13. The

Ascension.

14. The

Descent

15. The

Martyrdom

of

Conversion

of St. Paul.

16.

The

17.

Paul

18. Paul
19. Death
20.

and

of the

Holy Ghost.
St. Stephen

Barnabas

Preaching.
of

Elymas

Ananias.

the Sorcerer.

at

Lystra.

276

TAPESTRY

21. An

FROM

THE

CARTOONS.

of Paul
earthquake; showing the delivery
and
Silas from
the
from
prison: named
of
earthquake which shook the foundations
the building. The
artist endeavours
to
render it ideallyvisible to the spectatorby
which
to
placinga giganticfigure,
appears
be raisingthe superincumbent weight on
his shoulders ; but the result is not altogether
successful.

22.

St. Peter

healingthe cripple.
23
24. Contain
emblems
alluding to Leo the
Tenth.
of
These
are
preserved in one
the
privat eapartments of the Vatican
palace.
25. Justice.
In this subjectthe figuresof Religion,
above
Charity,and Justice are seen
the papal armorial
last
bearings. The
to the whole.
figuregives name
finished they were
the cartoons
When
sent
were
tory
into Flanders
to be woven
(at the famous manufacof Barnard
at Arras) under the superintendence
Van
Orlay of Brussels, and Michael Coxis, artists
for some
who had been
years pupils of Raphael at
"

Two

Rome.

cost, but

and

care

sets

executed

were

the death

of

with

the

Raphael, the

utmost

murder

Pope, and subsequent intestine troubles seem

have
delayed their appropriation.They cost

of the
to

seventy thousand
have
in

been

Francis

of

Leo's

ogni

the

Second

bell' arte ;''

was

an

which

sum

the First

Francis

having

of Paola, the founder

Adrian
da

defined by

consideration

crowns,

is said

to

of France,

canonised

St.

of the Minims.
a

man

indifference

"

alienissimo
which

may

TAPESTRY

for

account

FROM

the

THE

tapestriesto Rome,

though

the

manufacture

debt

for

their

being

not

cartoons

277

CARTOONS.

with

sent

say that

accounts

some

the

remained

dated,
unliqui-

paintingswere
kept in Flanders
for it. They were
carried
as
by the
security
away
Spanish army in 1526-7 during the sack of- Rome,
but were
restored
by the zeal and spiritof Montmorenci
the French
general,as set forth in the
of the tapestries
borders
Nos. 6 and 9. Pope
woven
Paul the Fourth
them
to the
(1555) first introduced
before the
of the public by exhibitingthem
gaze
Basilica of St. Peter
mini,
the festival of Corpus Doon
that the

and

also at the

and

This

solemn

of them

use

1798
and

Rome

them

they
sold
burnt

was

with which

taken

were

Jew

to

by

him

theywere

is

at

cation."
of Beatifi-

continued

was

part of the last century, and

In

function

"

through

resumed.

now

by the French
Leghorn, and

in order

of

one

the

gold
; but happily
the speculator

to extract

richlyinterwoven
much
so
spoilas

from

theydid not furnish

The one
hoped, and this devastation was arrested.
that was
destroyedrepresentedChrist's Descent into
Limbus
sand
rest were
; the
repurchasedfor one. thouthree
Vatican
We
and

hundred

and

crowns,

restored

to

the

in 1814.
have

alluded

it is believed

to two

that

sets

there

of these
were

two

tapestries,
;

whether

We
exactlycounterparts has not been ascertained.
have traced the migrations of one
The
other
set.
authorities, presented by
was,
according to some
to
our
Pope Leo the Tenth
Henry the Eighth ;
whilst others say that our
king purchased it from
the state of Venice. It was
hung in the Banqueting

278
House

Whitehall, and

of

the

of Charles

Alva, and

of

by

the head

our

consul

the

after

sale.

unhappy

tion
execu-

other

put up, amongst

Being purchased by

it became

within

of that
in

CARTOONS.

First, was

to
royal properties,
Spanish ambassador,

house

THE

FROM

TAPESTRY

the

few

back

years

illustrious house

Spain, and by

him

of

property

sent

the
sold

was

to Mr.

the

Tupper,

back

to

this

country.
These

exhibited
then
for some
tapestrieswere
in the Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly,
time
and
were
afterwards
repurchased by a foreigner. Probably
progress" throughout
they have been making a
the kingdom, as
this twelvemonth
within
had
we
the satisfaction
of viewing them
at the principal
in a northern
of our
town
chapter
county. The motto
might have been written expresslyfor these tapestries,
is the description
so
as
exquisitelyaccurate
applied to them of the gold thread :
"

"

As

"

and

here

there, and

It shevv'd itselfe and

Like

Through

The

to'

discolour'd

the

greene

cartoons

gras

every

shone

and

through

were

hidden

snake, whose
his

long

themselves,

all,save

the ravages

unwares

unwillingly;

magnificentworks,

of these

where

snares

brightburnisht
the

declares."

back

beautiful

remained

in the

lost and

seven,

originals
lands,
Nether-

destroyed

chance, and

of time, and

lution.
revo-

injuredby neglect,and
almost pounced into holes by the weaver
tracinghis
outlines, were
purchased by King Charles the First,
These

and

are

now

It
Charles

in

seven,

much

justlyconsidered
is supposed that
the purchase was

most

the
to

valuable
chief

supply

session.
pos-

object of
the

then

280

TAPESTRY

and

few

FROM

THE

CARTOONS.

thousand

pounds would be well

in providing a fittingreceptaclefor some
finest productionsof human
genius in art ;
a

full value

of which

bestowed
of the
of the

and

alone, their possessors,

we

seem

be

Various
comparativelyinsensible.
portions
of cartoons
series or
by Raffaelle, part of the same
it is far from
set, exist in England; and
unlikely
there a proper place to preserve
and
that, were
hibit
exthe whole in, these would in time, by presentation
or
purchase,become the property of the country,
to

and

should

then

master

of

his

he has left

on

the walls of the Vatican."

we

greatest
which

the

pomp

of the

forty and

and

only

art,

of

monument

inferior

the
that

to

paintings,that of
Adoration
of the Magi, from the varietyof character
and
expression,the splendor and oriental

Of

all these varied

possess

beautiful

whole, the multitude

the
fifty,

of persons,

between

accessaries, elephants,

various

mental
varietyof splendid and ornaillustrations,and the exquisitegrouping, is

horses, "c,

considered

tapestry.
it may

be

the

with

as

As
so;

the
a

and

attractive

most

pieceof general and

but

well

we

remember

brilliant in

varied

interest

being,not
fascinated by

so

the
suddenly struck, as attracted and
figureof the Christ when, after his resurrection, he
is recommending the care
of his flock to St. Peter.
colours have faded graduallyand equably
The
(an
advantage not possessedby the others, where some
"

tints which
than

those

have
around

stood

the

them,

are

ravages

as

to add

very

much

better

and
placesstrikingly
this figurethe colours,

in

discordant) but in
painfully
though greatlyfaded, have yet
"

of time

to

faded

so

niously
harmo-

the illusion,giving

to

the

figure

dead.

the

At

really
The

would,

we

is

the
all

one

turn

returned

to

reply

of

further

from

risen
which

way

again.

look

admiration

our

and

precluded

of

majestic;

mentioned

we

281

CARTOONS.

appearance

involuntarily

superintendent,

foreigner

the

outline

we

length

THE

FROM

TAPESTRY

to

the

enthusiastic

the

remark

nothing

for
"

further

"

had

cisely

could

Madam,

I
admired

not

the

be

finest

said
should
that

thing

"

have

been
it

figure

in

world."

the

astonished

is

itself;

if
it

is

you
pre

282

CHAPTER

THE

"

When

DAYS

worthie

Fame

XVIII.

OF

"

GOOD

judge, a

woman

resounds

with

BESS."

QUEEN

sent

woman

for stale.'

thundring trump,

which

rends

the

ratlingskies,
And

pierceth to

hautie

the

Heavens,

and

thence

descending

flies

Through flickeringayre:

and

so

conjoinesthe

sea

and

shore

her,
togit.
In

admiration

of

hither."

"

thy grace, good Queene, thou'rt welcome

The Recexjvingof the Queene' s Maiestie
into
Mr

"

We

may

curious
ages

The

we

needlework.

entirelyvanished

age

what

justlywonder

English ladies;

hear

no

more

all the

Is
?"

Citie

"

of Elizabeth

of Norwich.

has

of

become
their

domestic

of the
rich

industryof

the

embroiderings,and

simplicityof

the

former

Aikin.

presents a never-failingfield

varietythrough which people of all tastes may

delightedlyrove, gathering flowers at will. The
the subtle
learned
the acute
statesman,
politician,
of her Burleigh,
lawyer,will find in the measures
food for apher Walsingham, her Cecil, abundant
probation
the heroic sailor will glory
for censure;
or
of

"

traveller

bisher;

and

son,

forehead

the

in

him

"

to last

wreathes

poesy

of the last,which

the memory

brighteven

glorious visions

recal

will

who

which

age

all time"

bay
freshly

produced
a

star

ot

shines

with

born

was

Fro-

and

Drake

with

Sidney, while

and

round
and

soldier

the

regions with

Eldoradic

explore the
plough the waves

adventurous

; the

time

283

BESS."

QUEEN

will

Raleigh,or
Essex

GOOD

of her

the achievements

over

Jon

OF

DAYS

THE

Ben

on

his

Shakspeare.
The
was
especiallya learned
age of Elizabeth
study of the dead languages had hitherto
age. The
been confined almost exclusively
to ecclesiastics and
scholars by profession,
but from
the time of Henry
the
Seventh
it had
been
gradually spreading
amongst the higher classes. The great and good
Sir Thomas
More
his daughters a learned
gave
education, and they did honour
to it ; Henry the
Eighth followed his example ; Lady Jane Grey
made
learning lovely; and Elizabeth's
pedantry
brought the habit into full fashion.
If

queen

endeavour
learned

to

were

do

to

studies

translated

through

so

was

from

talk Sanscrit, her

likewise.

given by
Greek

Sallust,Horace,

"c.

She

and

have

the

Latin

court

The

would

example

of

herself, who

the queen

play of Euripides,and
Isocrates,Xenophon, and Plutarch; from
considerable
portions of Cicero, Seneca,
the

parts of

"

is said

wrote

many

Latin

letters,

languages with
and
the nobility
facility.As a natural consequence
siasts
enthugentry, their wives and daughters,became
in the cause
of letters.
The
novelty which
to

spoken

five

"

attended

these

what

been

had

studies, the eager

so

desire

to

possess

long studiouslyand jealouslycon

284

DAYS

THE

coaled, and
treasures

the

and

Greek

study

and

BESS/'

the

swelled

books.

hall

the

into

absolute

an

The

baronial

rifle the

world, which

Roman

excite

to

for

and

castle, and

QUEEN

imaginationhad

contributed
for

GOOD

"

curiosityto explore and

the

of

mystery

OF

passion
ducal

the

court,

vellous,
mar-

verted
suddenly coninto academies, and could
boast of splendid
tapestries. In the first of these, according to
the queen
Ascham, might be seen
reading more
Greeke
day than some
prebendarie of this
every
were

"

church
the

doth

read

Latin

in

translatingIsocrates

was

easilyconceived that her

convenient
to praiseand
her

time.

In

daughter of a
strong waters,
third, every
was

world,
A

the

maids
to

duchess
but

to

similar marks

employ

reading either

of

the

of

our

forren

in

writingvolumes

might

owne

or

here

wait

the

able
fashion-

greater

about
owne,

the

in continuall

"

histories

us,

and

diverse

translatingof

or

and

our

grave

give their
queene'smajestic. I
singularcommendation
as

nations

in

of

some

or
Scriptures,

of their

as

beautiful

the

distil

of erudition."

says, that
themselves

holie

be

the

English and Latine toongs. I

(he adds) make a largediscourse of such
into

mens

honorable

and

lady who aspiredto

of
compelled, in imitation

ladies of the court

"

Warton,

Greek;

construe

writer

it

adopt the dispositionof

taught not only to

was

be

found

of honour

young

to exhibit

it may

Seneca,

second, observes

contemporary

other

or

;" and while

week

whole

vertues

upon

his

of

councellors, and
dailie
could
of
such

person,

noble

personages,
the
upon

attendance
in like sort

the vertuous
ladies
betweene

and

set

foorth

beautie,

or

gentlewomen
whose

amiable

THE

DAYS

and

countenances

to be

OF

such

is not
of both

sorts

the

excellent
Would

whether

of the twaine

God

which

of them

few

have

speaches, beside an
writingbefore-time not regarded.

skill of sundrie

veine
to

verie

are

and

use

to gesse

me

that it

as

preheminence. This further

omitted, to the singularcommendation
courtiers here in Engand sexes
of our
land,

that there
not

contention,

seemeth

the

awaie

to be

of attire there

costlinesse

is verie difficult for

285

BESS/'

QUEEN

dailie conflict and

shall beare

GOOD

"

of

of their

the rest

lives

and

tions
conversa-

correspondentto these gifts! for as our

courtiers
(for the most
part) are the best
and endued
with excellent gifts,
manie
so
are
the worst
when
abroad, that
men
they come

were
common

lerned
of them

anie
a

shall either heare

man

thing with

rare

us

to heare

now

hath

but

many

gentlewomen and
knowledge of the

sound

thereto

are

Sith

me.

and
these

this time
ages,

sexes)
young

doo

of

when

young

was

women,

by

of

the

as

in this

nothing at

otherwise

every
persons

no

it resteth

behalfe,so

all behind

God

means

continue, and

castle

gentle birth,

discontinued

gentle birth, in
*

Harrison.

them

is

baronial
of

not

men
noble-

wanting 1"*
practice(derivedfrom the

which
the

toongs,
the Spanish, Italian,

surmount

Industrie

that beside

Latine

persuaded,that

am

parts, which

accomplishthat

are,

how

saie

to

of them,

one

verie little or

come

resort

skilful in

some

gentlemen

for their

At

in

or

And

and

it is

courtier which

ladies there
Greeke

Trulie

of.

of

lanoria^e.

owne

lesse

no

French,

and
in

his

read

or

the

of

was

alrous
chivthe

of both

placing

establishment

286

THE

ladies

of

DAYS

of

understood

own

constant

of
service

duties

fortune

bestowed

of the

on

To

mother

good

my

Mrs.

deliver

sons
Per-

of

good

their

the

then

not

and

their

sexes

tion
educa-

the fashionable

them

in

company.
in
retained

of both

only schools
The
followingletter,written
lady thus situated :

young

"

best

often

Indeed

time.

education,

liberal

people

young

had

household, and

the

rank

and

performing any
supposed to have their

be

of

with

birth, and

BESS."

QUEEN

in the

association

many

best, if

might

advantage

the

return

GOOD

"

where, without

rank,

offices,they

menial

"

OF

houses

the

ing.
elegant learn-

of
in

Pake,

were

1595, is from

at

Broumfield,

this.

Mother,

Deare

My

"

humble

dutye

remembred

unto

my

I received
Weddensday
upon
you, "c.
last a letter from
father and you, whereby, I
my
understand, it is your pleasuresthat I should certifie

father

and

you what times

of my exercises.
my

lute

I do take
I doe

after

supper,

me;

and

heareth

reddie, I play

in

for the

the rest

lute, and
most

part playe

of

for

then

the

morninges,
and
wrightinge and
my

hower;

an

for my

commonlie

my lady
after I am

For my drawafter I have done my lute.

siferinge,
in the afternowne, and
inge I take an hower
my
French
at night before
My lady hath not
supper.
bene
well these tooe or three dayes : she telleth me,
when
come

she
and

will,"c.
I

is

well, that

teche
"c.

hope

me;

As

"

she will

if she

can

see

by

if Hilliard
any

she

means

corse
touchingemy newe
shall performe my dutye to

will

in

my

vice,
ser-

lady

288

THE

DAYS

OF

chieflyremarkable
composition, and

the

towards

with

the queen

GOOD

"

for

QUEEN

BESS."

their

pedantic prolixityof
and
fulsome
gross flattery
which they were
throughout

invested.
with the rage of the
Everything,in accordance
erudite, or, more
an
day, assumed
trulyspeaking,a
When
the queen
pedantic cast.
(says Warton)
paraded through a country town, almost
every
she paid a visit at
a
pantheon. When
pageant was
the house of
at entering the hall
any of her nobility,
she was
to
saluted
by the Penates, and conducted
her privy chamber
by Mercury. Even the pastry
cooks
were
expert mythologists. At dinner, select
transformations
of Ovid's metamorphoses were
hibited
exin confectionary;
and the splendidiceing of
immense
with a
embossed
historic plum- cake was
an
of Troy.
delicious basso-relievo
of the destruction
In
the

the afternoon, when

garden,

Nereids

the

the lake

she
was

of

condescended
covered

with

to

walk

Tritons

in

and

the

converted
family were
into wood-nymphs, who
peeped from every bower;
in the
and the footmen
the lawns
gambolled over
figureof satyrs.
think
of
the effusions
could
even
Scarcely we
also of this period be
more
a fashion
Euphues
than
to the spirit
wearisome
a
repetitionof these
dull delights.
for learning,and the time perThis
predilection
force
have
must
necessarily
given to its acquisition,
subtracted from those hours which might otherwise
and
bestowed
the lighter labours
been
have
on
does it
Nor
beguilingoccupationsof the needle.
;

pages

"

appear

that

"

after her

accession

Elizabeth

did much

THE

OF

DAYS

GOOD

"

289

BESS."

QUEEN

in a more
cast
patronisethis gentle art. She was
her
In her father's court, under
stirringmould.
sister's jealouseye, within her prison's
walls,
solitary
her needle
might be a prudent disguise,a solacing
for thought."
occupation, woman's
pretty excuse
"

But

after her

throne

to the

accession

own

action

was

her characteristic.
Nevertheless
needlework
and

we

not

was

"

despised. By

for

so

of the

virtue

her

dictatorial
"

as,

lay aside
happily,it now

her

esteem,

sampler,and
But

ery.

thing
She

was

Bacon's

it

in which

was

upon

"

sword

is

have

would

she

robes, and

own

for

made

the

distaff.

But

in

her

excelled

nature
to

lie

to

suffer any

quite dormant.

accomplished needlewoman
; some
then
glowing
proofsof her skill were

quisite
ex-

an

their freshness, and

her

only held a secondaryplace in

Raleigh'spoems instead of his
learning instead of his stitch-

not

she

It

their

the

have

we

frowned,

was

tunate
perhaps fordid not
especiallypatronise
and
absolute
she, that by
was

right divine

warriors

that, because

suppose

means.

embroider

statesmen

to

rage,"it

no

that Elizabeth
it

not

are

her

excellence

in

this

in

art

all
was

ladies of her
obvious
to prevent the
sufficiently
court from
entirelyforsakingit. Many books, with
published about this
patterns for needlework, were
Queen Elizabeth is especially
time, and in a later one
for her skill in it.
celebrated
in a laudatory poem
in ornamental
That
needlework
was
an
proficiency
absolute
requisitein the accomplishments of a
be inferred from
the prominent
country belle, may
place it holds in Drayton's descriptionof the wello

290

THE

educated

OF

DAYS

of

daughter

GOOD

"'

QUEEN

BESS."

country knight in Elizabeth's

days :
silk well

The

"

And

make

with

she

couth

mattins
And

She

"

well

Might
A

hood

In

to

that

pine or
these days

taxed

in

purse

of the rich and

had

ermine

several
well

as

embroidery
unusual

be

worth

At

no

time

was

in

or

of

boots,

turned
made

down
of

fullest

for

the

which
and

russet

so

in

with
richest

it

no

was

the

for

lavishlyadorned

the

Almost
was

this

or

and

the

beth
Eliza-

finest and

needlework

had

time

which

leather,

were

mired,
ad-

more

everyday

every

adorned

fringed,and
cloth

both

extent

to,

marks.

now.

at

alluded

counterpane

to be

ornamental

female,

the

them

on

greater request

and

here

fingersof the fair.

expensively trimmed

most

life, than

dress, male
the

the

thousand

to

as

the

to

master's*bed

or

fine,

featously."

lavished

was

counterpanes

circumstance

"standing"

and

needlework

as

queen,
see

columbine,

full

march

to

was

neat

so

like the

colour

maiden

seemly

Ywrought
The

of frolic green,

become

Which

say

in kirk.

psalm

frock

pine,

holy day,

twine,

priestto

the

help

on

and

needlework:

the

sing

wore

twist

she

fine march

the

And
And
His

couth

with

article
it.

immense
were

worn

cerns
con-

of

Even

tops

commonly
by some
(of which

exquisitesof the day of very fine cloth

make
used
broidered
emto
a
shirt),and were
enough was
in various-coloured
in gold or
silver, or

THE

DAYS

"GOOD

OF

QUEEN

silks,in the figuresof birds, animals,

and

the ornamental

these

needlework

would

boots

cost

from

The

291

BESS."

antiques;
alone of a pair of
four to ten pounds.
would
frequentlycost
or

making of a singleshirt
needlewith
10/., so richly
were
they ornamented
vvorke of silke,and so curiously
stitched with other
"

knackes."
Woman's

too, their handkerchiefs,

triflings,"
decorated richly.We
reticules,
workbags,"c, were
have
within these few days a workbag which
seen
would startle a modern
fair one, for,as far as regards
11

size, it has

most

"

industrious

look," but which,

despitethe
token

three centuries,yet gives

ravages of near
of much
originalmagnificence. It is made of

net, lined with

silk

the

material, the

net

itself,(a

honeycomb pattern, like, what we called a

few years
made
lace,)was
by the
ago the Grecian
fair workwoman
in those days,and was
a fashionable
occupationboth in France and England. This bag
is wrought in broad stripeswith gold thread, and
between
the stripes
various flowers are embroidered
in different coloured
silks. The
bag stands in a
sort of card-board
basket, covered in the same
style;
it is drawn
with long cords and tassels,and is large
to hold a good sized
enough perhaps,on emergency,
baby.
in
skill was
It is more
than probablethat female
sort

of

request
The

in various

Arras

matters

decoration.

of household

looms, indeed, had

long superseded the

in the construction
painful fingersof notable dames
of hangings for walls, which were
universally
used, intermingledand varied in the palaces and
nobler mansions
by M painted cloth," and cloth of
o2

292

THE

gold

and

OF

DAYS

"

We

have

bed-chamber

With

gen's
Imo-

describes

Shakspeare
Cymbeline

in

Her

BESS."

QUEEN

Thus

silver.

chamber

GOOD

"

hanged

was

tapestry of

that

remarked

silver."

silk and

Eighth's

the

Henry

were
splendid; Elizabeth's
finished in minor
more
consistently
that
conveniences, as it is particularlyremarked
and
stools for the
easye quiltedand lyned formes
had
lords and
ladyes to sit on
superseded the
scant
can
great plank forms, that two yeomen
out of their places,and waynscot stooles so
remove
hard, that since great breeches
were
layd asyde

palaces were
equallyso, and

very

"

"

"

skant

can

men

indewr

chambers

colours

her

and

bed

silver, and
covered

was

she had

shone

silk

of various

shapes,answering

family of
gold and

tabourets

and

used

; it

universallyadopted
sides be

wals

The

"

either

was

of

the

of

with

needle

alone

large

our

with

separate

describer
was

as

not,

mention

either

of

Harrison, it

even

palaces that
fabric,

of

the

diverse

such

like

and
tapisterie
would

seem

yet,quiteexploded.

country

the

on

arrastapisterie,

hearbes, beasts, knots, and

accurate

to

coarser

houses

our

or

this

houses

painted cloths, wherein

From

articles of

and

courts

now,

in

hanged

in

or

various

embroidered

ottomans,

merely

not

was

was

gentry.

with

silver thread.

it

arras

sence
pre-

with

furniture

But

of

chusions," moveable

"

many

two

costlycoverlids
patterns, by the needle ;

of silk,wrought in various
and

Her

Court

Hampton

at

gold

of

tapestry

sitt on."

to

inner

work,"
histories,

are

stained,

arras-icork

that

by

tapestry of

so

the

THE

or

else

we

may

OF

DAYS

"GOOD

293

BESS."

QUEEN

or
they are seeled with oke of our
owne,
wainescot
brought hither out of the east countries."
The
suspended on frames, which,
tapestry was now

from

infer, were

often

the walls, since

ensconced

himself
occasion

and

indeed

on

idea
time

the
too

on

morable
me-

there

his death

service

the

it into

presses

Falstaff

John

arras"

met

following quotation

will

properties thought

most

and
cuts

is

"behind

distance

occasions.

of
;

portty Sir

Polonius

considerable

the

Shakspeare

numerous

The

at

it will be
a

that

seen

give

accurate

an

valuable

this

at

work
needle-

ornamental

distinguishedfiguretherein.

very

It

when
catalogue of his wealth given by Gremio
suing for Bianca to her father, who declares that the
a

wealthiest

lover

the

her, in

will win

Taming

the

of

Shrew.
"

Gremio.

First,as

know,

Basons

and

with

all of

My

hangings

In

ivorycoffers

In

cypres

my

linen, Turkey

Valence

of
and

Pewter
To

The

age

appeals
sera

to

house

or

Venice

of warlike

crowns

canopies,

cushions

boss'd

with

pearl,

gold, in needlework,
all

things that belong

house-keeping."
which

one

was

imagination in various
chivalrywas
past ; but

lighter observances
varietyof life,and

counterpoints,

and

brass, and

of Elizabeth
the

stuff' d my

arras,

Costly apparel,tents,
Fine

dainty hands;

her

Tyrian tapestry ;

I have

chests

city

gold ;

plate and

to lave

ewers,

the

within

house

my

richlyfurnished

Is

you

remained,

perhaps

and

tended

powerfully
many

added
to

The

ways.

of
to

polishit.

its

the
We

2(.)4

THE

DAYS

OF

GOOD

"

told, for instance, that

are

stood
his

on

picking it

up

caused

the

He

it.

diamonds
bore

5 and

it

crowned
ladies

of Cumberland

the Earl

as

she

Elizabeth

before

BESS."

QUEEN

her

dropped

glove ;

graciouslydesired him to keep

trophy^ to be encircled with
all

after, at

ever

tilts and

favourite
in the

contentions

There

diversion.

of

lists in honour

the

twenty-fivepersons of the first rank

of
for this purpose,
a
society of arms
for some
chivalric Sir Henry Lee
was
The

"

of

romance

the heavier

by

the

but

vast

strides

utter

change, so

to

Sir

the

for

taste

which

spiritualromance,

the

work,

"

The

downfall

of

the

literature,

the

chivalric

introduced
; and

now

too

metaphorical effusion

and

first exhibited

the

was

that

in

romance

of

pervaded
afterwards

unaccountably fascinating
Pilgrim^ Progress." Nevertheless, as

yet
"

ceeded
suc-

of

system

"

in

be

kinds,

various

in the

fully developed

sident.
pre-

of

Bishop of Tricca's
Barlaam
and Josaphat,,:'
and which
now
the fast-rising
puritan party, and was
century

time

the

classical

PhilipSidney'sArcadia

that

which

sinkingto

was

high-flownpastoral effusions

re-born

fourth

of

speak,in

to

established

Scudery,
knowledge, the

acquirement

contributed

romance.

was

in

sovereign,

of Gomberville,

tomes

extension

"c,

for

"

chivalry

annual

were

and

rage

tourneys,

conspicuouslyplaced in front of his high

hat.
Jousting and tiltingin honour of the
awarded) continued
(by whom
prizes were

still to be

all

and

High

placed in

Courted

hall,a

and

welcome

caress'd,
guest,"

296

THE

the
"

DAYS

fairies, the

shapes

GOOD

BES

QUEEN

satyrs, the

Uncharnerd

Along
the

"

fauns, the

elves, the

that walk," the

"

being

the

and

Elizabethan

lone

wood's

unfrequented path"

existence

holy writ"

as

age.

On

glide

to

spectres,seen

active

true

"

OF

this

beautifullyillustrative

"

of all these

by our
subjectwe

of the

ancestors

will transcribe

from

passage

sidered
con-

was

War

ton

"

Every goblin of ignorance" (says he) did

vanish
first glimmerings of the morning
at the
"

"

Reason

science.

suffered

linger,which she chose to retain

the
guidance of poetry. Men
believe, that

willing to
around,

brought

from hell; that

blasts
from

who

his

prison of

with
the

torment

service under

in her

believed,

airs

ghost
at

was

the

and

was

under

of

bound

accomplish his
conditions,and for

certain

from heaven,

duly

sound

or

relieved

of the

few,
cur-

to

severest
a

limited

services,
duration

actuallyone of the pretended feats

these fantastic philosophers to evoke
the queen
the fairies in the solitude of a gloomy grove, wrho,

of time.
of

fairies

were

imprinted mysterious circles on

the turf by moonlight. Much
of this credulitywas
and
consecrated
of science
even
by the name
found
prospeculation. Prospero had not yet broken
and
his book
buried
his staff,nor
drowned
deeper
that the
It was
than did ever
now
plummet sound.
his
alchemist
and the judicialastrologerconducted
of some
occult operationsby the potent intercourse
obsequious to his call,
preternaturalbeing, who came
and

that

or

yet hovering

spiritswere
them

of

still to

demons

few

not

It

was

DAYS

THE

precededby a
in robes
of

sudden

sabbath

297

BESS."

QUEEN

of
rustling

instructed

given us

the

GOOD

"

transcendant

of

more

have

OF

the leaves, appeared

The

lustre.

Shakspeare

polishedage would not

magiciandarkeningthe sun at noon,

of

and

cauldron

the

witches, and

the

of

incantation."
It

endless, and

indeed

place here, to
minor
attempt to specifythe numberless
tions
superstito which
this credulous tendencyof the public
were

mind

birth

gave
"

like

but

continuation;

of

the marvels

or

Anthropophagi, the Ethiopswith

parts
eyes, the Hippopodes with their nether
head,
horses, the Arimaspi with one
eye in the forehead
and the Monopoli who have
at all
no
which were
in their breast
all devoutly
a face

travellers,
four

or

of

out

the

as

"

credited.

One

potent charm, however,

are

we

strained
con-

since its infallibility

was
particularise,
skill. It
mainly dependent on the needlewoman's
to

waistcoat

was

we

its

able
invulner-

owner

duly prepared it would

only against silver bullets,"
that if

believe

found

proof not
also againsteven
notoriety. Thus
On

rendered

which

"

the

daie

but

bullet" of German

the charm

runs

Christmas

charmed

"

be

"

be
night,a thread must
of flax,by a little virginegirle,
in the name
sponne
of the divell ; and it must
be by hir woven,
and also
wrought with the needle. In the brest or forepart
t(

thereof
on

must

the head

long beard,
and

it must

Belzebub
be

be made
at the

and
be
and

at

with

needleicorke

rightside

the left head

so
on

horrible
each

side

must
must

be
have

hat

a
on

that it maie
of

heads

two

acrowne,

resemble

the wastcote

a crosse."
icroifght

o3

and

must

298

DAYS

THE

The
that

OF

that

newspaper,
and

thewe

"

realm, took

"

GOOD

engine
mighty political

now

of the fourth

sinew"

in Elizabeth's

its rise

BESS.'

QUEEN

of the

estate

day.

would

How

with amazeoverwhelmed
have been
ment
legislators
this
could they have beheld, in dim perspective,
of
less now
the offspring
child of the press, scarcely
of their own
those chimeras
the imagination than
been
time
have
to which
we
alluding; and would
be
the wrinkled
brow
of the modern
not
politician
unconsciouslysmoothened, would not the careworn
and profound diplomatist gather up his face into

her

l"

he

before

smile

First

if the

aware,"

was

paper
News-

It is not
suddenly placed before him?
indeed
in existence, but was
published under the
title of" The
in April,1588, on
English Mercuric"
the first appearance
the shores of England of
near
the Spanish Armada,
vation
caused
this innoa crisis which
the usual public news-letter
circulated
in
on
manuscript. No. 50, dated July 23, 1588, is the
in existence; and
first now
the publication only
as
have been issued
began in April,it shows they must
have
this No. 50, which
is
seen
frequently. We
preservedin the British Museum.*
were

In it

are

reports
"

fashionable

no

"

"

no

"

of

"

stocks

crim.

no

no

"

police reports no
no
poets'corner
"

"

"

no

"

radical

demonstrations

murders

Sloane

no

law

arrivals
"

no

beries
rob-

elopements
mercantile
intelligence
leaders,"
no
moranda
meliterary
no
spring meetings
cons.

"

no

"

"

"

"

"

no

conservative

but
*

"

fashionable

no

"

fashions

no

"

intelligenceno

reviews

no

price

no

circular

court

no

"

advertisements

no

MSS.

No.

4106.

dinners

THE

"

OF

DAYS

GOOD

"

For

ffltviuvit*
"njjlfefi

Published

"

by Authoritie,
of False

the Prevention
"

Contains

299

BESS."

The

"

"

QUEEN

three

Reportes,

Whitehall, July 23, 1588."

and

pages

quarto,of

half, small

of fact information.

matter

then
seen
respecting the Armada
of the
the Lizard, making for the entrance
neare
Channel]," and appearingon the surface of the water
like floating
castles."
of news
from
A page
Ostend, where
nothing
talked of but the intended
invasion of England.
was
His
Highnesse the Prince of Parma having cornpleated his preparationes,of which the subjoined
Accounte
and
might be depended upon as exacte
authentique"
for a newspaper.
Something to say
And
lines dated
London, July 13, of the
a few
Two

pages

"

"

"

"

"

lord

mayor,
lieutcnancie
with

aldermen,
of this

common

great citie" waitingon

of

assurances

graciousreceptionfrom
Such
The

was

the newspaper

great events

councilmen,

support,

and

Her

and
jesty
Ma-

receivinga

her.
of 1588.

of Elizabeth's

reign,in

war,

in

in legislation,
belong to the historian ; the
politics,
great march of mind, the connectinglink which that
between
the darkness
of the preceding
age formed
of the Roses
ones
(forduring the period of the wars
of art and
all sorts
science retrograded),and the

300

high
the

even

THE

cultivation

the

to

touch

prominent

later

GOOD

days,

QUEEN

philosopher

through

valuable

works,

very

superficially
of

BESS."

is

it

them.

analyse
the

of

that

of

on

some

have

many

ventured

have

we

and
;

time

medium

the

ot

province

the

to

characteristics

familiar

and

"

and

lighter
so

modern

more

of

metaphysician

become

only

OF

DAYS-

few

of

the

301

XIX.

CHAPTER

AS

"

THE

OF

TAPESTRY

He

SPANISH

TAPESTRY

did blow

OF

with his wind,,and

be

year
a

1588

wonderful

world

had
year,

the

"

scattered."

they were

foretold

been

LORDS.

Inscription

The

OF

HOUSE

THE

on

tbe

Medal.

'

by astrologersto

climacterical

;" and the publicmind

KNOWN

BETTER

ARMADA,

year

of the

England was at that

and superstitious
credulous
to be
period sufficiently
affected with vague
if the prepresentiments,even
paration
of an hostile armada
so
powerful as to be
termed
invincible," had not seemed
to engraft on
these vague
surmises
fearful a groundtoo real and
work
of

"

of truth
.

The

preparations of Philip II.

with

Countries,

those
and

benediction
still influential

of the

Duke

by

of the

shaken

the valued
and

bined
Spain, com-

in the

of Parma

furthered

and

in

and

Low
tive
effec-

tottering,but

powerful head of the Roman

church, had produced a hostile array which, with
but too much
threatened
the
probabilityof success,
conquest of England, and its subjugation to the
papal yoke. Not since the Norman
Conquest had

302

TAPESTRY

fraught with

SPANISH

THE

ARMADA.

which, if successful, would

occurred

event

any

OF

be

to
harassing and distressing
the established
inhabitants
of the island.
Though
the Norman
Conquest had, undoubtedly, in the
course
of time, produced a beneficial and civilising
and ennobling influence on the island, it was
long
and
bitter years ere
of the subjugated
the groans
and
oppressed Anglo-Saxons had merged in the
contented
peacefulnessof a united people.
William
Yet
was
certainlyof a severe
temper,
and was
incited by the unquenchable oppositionof
the English to a cruel, and
exterminating policy.
not to promise milder
sures.
meaPhilip of Spain seemed
hated
the
He
was
a
bigot, and moreover
English with an utter hatred.
During his union
with Mary he had utterlyfailed to gain their good

the

to

them

to

failure

Neither

them.

so

his hatred

will, and
ratio

results

of

time,

increased

his desired

nor

trouble,

in

exact

an

influence
nor

care,

with

nor

pense,
ex-

spared in this his decided invasion ; and

and even
it is said that irom
America,
Italy,Sicily,
drafted the most
diers
were
experiencedcaptainsand solto aid his cause.
Well, then, might England
look with
with terror, to this
anxiety, and even
and fast approaching'event.
threatened
But
her energieswere
gency.
fullyequal to the emerin the full plenitude of her
Elizabeth, now
was

wills,and
her
of

the

at

was

power,

in

great degree

subjects,at
them

one

of her

acme

least

factious

over

and

by

over

influence
the

over

affections

the
of

far the

greater portion
discontented party there

insufficient to be any effectual barrier

to her designs. And
the cause
was
a popular one
:

was,

but

too

304

TAPESTRY

extensive

that there
contributed
there

great

females

also

were

those

by

This

which

and

nearest

not

bers
mem-

eightyCapuchins,
friars ; and

that
anticipation,

; two

three

or

even

of about

consisted

tained
con-

of these

were

of France.

the coast

on

had

follow the fleet which

to

they loved

the storm

votaries,

note

and

the

was

its

were

Jesuits,and Mendicant

vessels

Armada

popular

hundred

one

the enthusiastic

was

hired

driven

its dearest

of

some

Dominicans,
so

ARMADA.

SPANISH

THE

preparations; and so
Spain, and so ardent
not a familyof any
was

project in

OF

hundred

one

and

of an uncommon
size,
fiftyships,most of which were
like floatingcastles
strength,and thickness, more
than anything else : and to this unwieldy size
may,
probably, be attributed much of their discomfiture.

For

the greater holiness

called

the

of their action, twelve

were

Twelve

Apostles; and a pinnace of the

Andalusian
squadron,commanded
by Don Pedro de
The
Valdez, was
called the
fleet is
Holy Ghost."
said to have
contained
thirty-twothousand
persons,
and to have cost
thousand
ducats.
every day thirty
The
Duke
of Parma's
contemporary preparations
also prodigious,and of a nature
which plainly
were
declared
the full certainty
and
confidence
in which
the invaders
indulged of making good their object.
the preparationswere
But
doomed
not
to be even
"

tried.

The

Sir Francis
*

He

copy

finesse

those
money

he

letter from

slept. Upon

Spanish
for

the

of

means

Philip to

taking the keys of

as

the

caused

had
Venetian

the

Pope;

cabinet

the

of

manoeuvres

Walsingham

contrived, by
of

and

from

the

his
priest,

the

invasion

spy,

gentleman

shrewd

of

pockets of

to

obtain

the

his holiness

thus obtained, Walsingham

intelligence

bills protested at

preparations.

Genoa

which

should

have

chamber
bed-

got

supplied

OF

TAPESTRY

be

to

retarded

England

was

is known.
Parma
were

into

for

whole

and

year,

fullyprepared for
hollow treaty
The

305

ARMADA.

SPANISH

THE

by

this time
result

her foes. The

of peace

which

into

preparations
entered
was
completed,to take her by surprise,
zabeth.
with an equal share of hypocritical
policyby EliSo (says an old historian)as they seemed
entered

had

all

order, when

in

"

both

on

sides to

the foxe's skin to the lion's."

sew

the public mind,

the effect on
powerful was
not
only of this projected enterprise,but of its
almost unhoped for discomfiture, that all possible
So

means

taken

were

method

resorted

that

Flanders

time

of

manufacture

of

the manufacture

was

series of

representinga
At

to

subjects connected
it

was

tapestry
with

all others

excelled

tapestry,

One

the event.

to commemorate

in

scarcelyindeed

it.
the
troduced
in-

had
a
England ; and our ancestors
series of ten charts, designed by Henry Cornelius
from
Vroorn, a celebrated
painter of Haarlem,
which
their Flemish
beautiful
neighbours worked
which ornamented
the walls of the House
draperies,
into

of Lords.
At

the

time

of the

Ireland, when

with

Union

made
repairs and alterations were
taken down,
here, these magnificenttapestries
were
cleaned, and
replaced,with the addition of large
considerable

frames
and
of

of dark

stained

wood,

which

off the work

set

colouringto advantage. They formed a series

guished
which
ten pictures,
round
portraitsof the distinofficers

wrought
With

into

who

commanded

fleet

were

border.

which might now

prescience,
prophetic,Mr. John Pine, engraver,
a

the

almost

seem

published in

306

TAPESTRY

1739
and

series

a
"

may

OF

of

SPANISH

THE

ARMADA.

from

platestaken

these

tapestries;

u
time, or accident, or moths
says he,
these valuable
have
shadows, we
deavoured
en-

because."
deface

their likeness

in the

preceding
and dispersed
prints,which, by being multiplied
in various
hands, may meet with that securityfrom
the closets of the curious, which
must
the originals
from
the sanctityof
scarce
always hope for, even
the placethey are kept in."
On the 17th day of July, 1588, the English discovered
the
like
Spanish fleet with lofty turrets
the wing thereof
castles, in front like a half moon,
ing
miles, sailspreading out about the length of seven
very slowly,though with full sails, the winds
tired with carrying them, and the
being as it were
ocean
groaning under the weight of them."
This forms the subjectof the first tableau.
The
suffered the Spaniards to pass
English commanders
them
that they might hang
in order
unmolested,
their rear, and harass
when
them
they should
upon
be involved
in the Channel
; for the English navy
to preserve

"

were

close

unable

to confront

action.

The

such

second

power

and

in direct

piece represents

them

Fowey, the English coast displayedin the

borately
too elaback-ground, diversified perhaps somewhat
into hill and dale, and the foliagescattered
thus, near

somewhat
very

too

regularlyin

pretty nevertheless.

lines
A

over

small

each

hill, but

villagewith

its

spire appears just at the water edge,

Eddystone lighthouselifts its head above the waters,
burned
which now
of the patriotism
and, fit emblem
throughoutthe land, and even glowed on the waters,
itself in threatening
a
huge sea monster
uprears

churcli

and

TAPESTRY

attitude
countenance

the

SPANISH

THE

its native

and
any

shows
but

niards
Spa-

shores.
the

represents

307

ARMADA.

against the invading host,

hideous
enough to scare

from
No.

OF

hostile fleets,and

first

engagement

between

also the

subsequent sailingof
the Spanish Armada
lowed
channel, Closely folup the
much
so
ships were
by the English, whose
that in a running warfare
of this kind they
lighter,
had
greatly the advantage. The sea is alive too
with dolphins and
other
strange fish, with right
British

hearts,

seemed
looks

to

oppose

the

it

as

has

said

been

themselves

with

that

fierce and

"

they
grim

Spanish fleet/' The

view of the coast
it
here is very good ; and, where
retires from Start Point
bour,
harto form
as
a bay or
so
the perspectiveis reallyadmirably indicated
by two vessels dimly defined in the horizon.
The views of the coast are varied and interesting
;
and the distances
and
perspectiveviews are much
usual
at the
more
accuratelydelineated than was
time ; but, as we
have remarked, they were
designed
whose
by an eminent
particular
painter,and one
the
delineation
of shipping and
naval
forte was
to

progress

of

the

scenes.

The

picturesare certainlyas a series devoid

variety. In two of them the Calais shore is
;

and

the

of

intermixture

churches, houses, and

animated

of
troduced
in-

fortifications,

spectators,eagerly

crowding to behold the fleets sailingby, produces

an
enliveningand busy scene, which, set off by the
pestry,
and appropriatecolouring of the tavaried, lively,
would
have a most
strikingeffect. But the
man

who, unmoved

bv the

excitement

about

him, is

308

TAPESTRY

OF

THE

calmly fishingunder
his head
with

toward

SPANISH

ARMADA.

the walls, without

the

of tumult, must

scene

turning

even

be blessed

raged
apathy of dispositionwhich the poor endolphins and porpoisesmight have envied.
With
all sea
these exceptionsthe tapestriesare
pieces with only a distant view of the coast, and

an

portray the
progress,

fleets

two

different

in

with

sometimes

stages

engagements

of

their

between

singleships,but generallyin an apparent state of

the
and
truce, the English always the pursuers,
Spaniards generallydrawn up in form of a crescent.
The
last however
shows
the invading fleet hurriedly
in disorder
and
bad
weather,
sailingaway, when
of Parma's
the Duke
delay,and a close engagement
of fourteen
hours, in which
ously,"
they suffered grievading
having had to endure all the heavy cannonof their triumphant opponents, while
they
vinced
were
struggling to get clear of the shallows," conthem
of the impossibility
of a successful close
to their enterprise,
and made
them
resolve to take
breeze
their pasto make
advantage of a southern
sage
"

"

up

the North

that

He

"

sea,

May

So, however,
north

islands

did

and

fightsand

live to

not

round

runs

fightanother
the

their mariners

Scotland

away,

day."

Spaniards.
and

home.

"

About

soldiers died

these

daily

by their bodies cast on land did

The
Almighty ordered the winds to be so
appear.
contrary to this proud navy, that it was, by force,
Ireland ;
the
dissevered
west
on
high seas
upon
of them
driven into sundry
and so great a number
dangerous bays, and upon rocks, and there cast

by multitudes,

as

OF

TAPESTRY

sunk,

; some

away
and

broken,,

some

309

ARMADA.

the

on

some

by the Spaniards themselves."

clung to them ; storm and tempest on
and. cruel treatment
when
inhospitable

Misfortune
and

sea,

shore so reduced
forced on
them,
they were
this magnificentArmada
only sixtyshattered
found

their home

that his presence

their humbled

and

de Medina

the Duke

desired

not

was

residence

that

of

vessels

commander,

led to understand

Sidonia, was

private country

sands,

burnt

some

the

SPANISH

THE

and

at court,

would

that

the

be

most

suitable.
It

was

this occasion, when

on

past but

was

for

recruitingin
hand

northern

and

addressed
break

to

and

death.

means

with

through

shouts
to

some

no

rode

them

danger

it was

Elizabeth

that

instant

entirelydone away, as
supposed that the Armada, after

by

time

some

the

cries of

return,

general'struncheon

the

ranks

them
into

out

station, would

in

of her

in

army
stylewhich

deafening and

love, and

bury,
Til-

at

caused

tumultuous

honour, and

obedience

magnificentlythe English

Thus

her

heroine

spoke :
"

by
how
I

My
some
we

assure

loving People,
"

that
commit

you

careful

are

ourselves
I do not

We
of

have

persuaded

safetyto

our

to armed

desire

been

to

take

Multitudes

live to

heed
; but

distrust

my
I have

faithful and

lovingPeople. Let Tyrants fear ;

always so behaved myself that, under God, I have
placedmy chiefest strengthand safeguardin the loyal
Hearts
and Goodwill
of my Subjects; and therefore I
am

come

amongst

you,

as

you

see

at this

time,

not

for

and Disport,but being resolved, in the

my Recreation
midst and heat of the Battle, to live and die amongst

310

TAPESTRY

you

all ; to

and

for my

of

foul

Realm

shall

by

will be

your
of

one

already,for
of

stead, than
obedience
camp,
have

weak

Stomach

the

than

any

Borders

of

Dishonour

myself will take up Arms, I

General, Judge, and Re warder
in

Virtues

the

forwardness, you

your

Crowns

and

do

we

Field;
have

self
myof

I know

deserved
you, in the

assure

my
whom

duly paid you.

Lieutenant-generalshall be in
never

worthy subject;

or

and

England too ; and

Spain,or any Prince

invade

to

of

Prince, they shall be

the meantime

noble

but

your

and

Rewards
word

me,

or

rather

which,

; to

grow

every

dare

should

of

King

body

the Heart

that Parma

scorn

Europe

my

of

and

King,

think
of

but I have

feeble Woman,
a

the

I have

I know

ARMADA.

and for my kingdom,

and my Blood, even

lay down for my God,

People, my Honour,

in the dust.
and

SPANISH

THE

OF

to

and

my

your

Prince
not

commanded

doubting but, by

In
my

more

your

in the
General, by your Concord
shall shortly
Valour
in the Field, we

those Enemies
of my
victoryover
God, of my Kingdoms, and of my People."
of this
The
tapestry, the magnificent memorial
lost irreparably
in the devastating
great event, was
Some
fire of 1 834.
fragments, it is said, were
served,
prea

famous

but

we

have

not

been

able

to ascertain

this

portionstill exists at Plymouth, though

of the silver
shorn of its pristine
as
some
brilliancy,
of the
threads
drawn
out
were
by the economists
This piece was
time of the Commonwealth.
cut out
for a galleryat the time
of the trial of
to make
way
servant
Queen Caroline, was secreted by a German
and
to a
of the Lord
sold by him
Chamberlain,

fact.

broker

One

who

offered

it to Government

for 500/.

31-2

CHAPTER

ON

Here

have

That

And

XX.

STITCHERY.

justblame to find,
praisetoo partialbee,

in

cause

men

in their
proper

indifferent to womankind,

not

*******

Scarse
Rowme

plyed upon

that

fynde ynowe

"

in crafte; but

in this
of

these

of
that

ye ony

fynde

Answere.

of

doubte

the

dims

sheweth

theym

as

sheweth

by ye

in

record

we

must

laysus

inference, what

that

and

hathe

by

we

were

not

ben

and

scyences

felynge "
craftes
founde

neuer

to folowe

frende

founde

by

and
fore
be-

and

before,

accustomed
dere

myght

yl ye

newe

comune

by wrytynge,

werkynge of handes

under

ony

re

as

to

it is

before.
but

many

the

wytte

speculacyonof understand-

'

lament

Reason,

grete maystry

The

Again

Dame

of their

vertue

yc contrary my

them

Queene.

praysed in

thynge

moche

Faerie

Ise wel

women

founde

ryght notable

women,

whiche

so

newe

not

ye

scyences

subtylteof

ynge,

scyence

theymselfesome
Ne

"

craftes and
and

other

writingsmall
all."
their glories

thynges of

couenable

"

? for it is not

knowne

after ony

lerne

good,

three,

or

same

Madame

manere.

grete nombre

knowe

the

yet

two,

or

deface, and

understode

necessary,

nor

"

to one,

subtylteof wytte haue founde of ihemselfe

scyences

to

spare

all their deedes

Christine, whiche

of

they

in their writtes ;

Does

"

do

"

Boke

that the

as

in

craftes,y

of laboure."

of the Cyte of Ladies.

paucityof historical
the necessity
of concluding-,
by
would
fain have
displayedby

ON

.13

STITCHERY

authorityquoted
respectable
above affirms that
craftes and scyences ryght
many
notable hathe ben founde by the wytte and subtylte
of women," and it specifies
particularly werkynge
of handes," by which
the ''talented"
we
suppose
for
author means
needlework.
That
the necessity
this prettyart was
firstcreated by woman,
we
no
one,
think,will disallow; and that it was first practised,
it has been
as
by her, is
subsequentlyperfected,
feel the most
a fact of which
we
perfectconviction.
This conviction has been forced upon us by a train
of reasoningwhich will so readilysuggest itself to
direct

testimony.The
"

"

the mind

of all

with

to

steps. One

onlylink

"

will

the ancient
in
There

trouble

we

remarks

whilst
at the

our

with

them

in the chain

which

upon

the

the
"

selves
our-

that

it is

intervening

circumstantial

that is afforded
we

have
needle

Eve's

"general

in
fig-leaves

of

and

adduce,

engraving to

our

content

we

result, assured

the

naming

unnecessary
evidence

readers, that

our

mother*'

before
and
is

by
luded
al-

thread.

stitching

edifyingmanner
first father," far from tryingto
our
possible,
put
her in the
in a stitch for himself," is gazing upon
And
while she pliesher
utter
amazement.
most
his
busy task as if she had been born to stitchery,
eyes, not his fingers,
away

most

lc

'"'

Follow

"

the nimble

with every indication of

In fact,it is

fingersof

the fair,"

wonder
superlative

and

miration.
ad-

slightargument in favour of the

invention of sewing by women,
that men
original
have wit enough to learn it, even^vhen
very rarely
no

314

STITCHERY.

ON

invented.

There
the

amongst

even

has

been

world's

work"

of endeavour,

lack

no

mightiest,

greatest and

of it. Hercules
they made
his
from
lost all the credit of his mighty labours
at the spinning wheel, and the sceptre
insignificance
of Sardanapaluspassed from
his grasp as he was
endeavouring to
fingerthe fine needle and nyse
but

"

poor

have

"

thread."
These
Gowcr

"

love-stricken
had
"

he then

whore

she hkesto

I bow,

she

And

when

And

when

Then

or

her

modern

will I,

stands, then

of

I only

her

prie,

fingerslong and

small."

muse

Leviathan

the

of literature,

successful.

more

Johnson.

in hand,

work

embroidrie.

Hercules,

not

by.

will f stand,

and

can

Upon

about.

set, I kneel

she takelh

wevyny

call, I come,

will,so

she

I go.

go,

her

would

she

me

look, I lowte,

eye followeth

Of

Dr.

bid

And

so

"
"

Women

they may take

disgracingthemselves
that

have
with

up
;

great advantage

little

things,without

cannot,

man

except with

I learnt to fiddle I should

fiddlinc:. Had

with

do, I do,

me

she

When

was

hid

where

What

said

have

"

And

My

might

said it

things she

"What

I serve,

Our

heroes

have

done

nothing else."
Boswell.
musical

did you

ever

play on

any

instrument?"

Dr.Johnso?i.
but

Pray, Sir,

"
"

Bosicell.

"
"

made

never
"
"

? I should

No, Sir; I

out

once

liked

let,
flageo-

tune."

Sir!
flageolet,

have

bought

to

So

small

hear you

an

ment
instru-

play on

the

STITCHER

ON

violoncello.

Dr.

That

Johnson.-

Sir, I might

"
"

the violoncello

on

done

small.

to teach

Boswell.

but

me,

So, Sir

w
"

narrative,

for his

'" once

Johnson.

knitter

Nor

was

of

with

of

he

disdain

tried

sort

"

of

good

I should

his

high appreciation
to his
stitchery

race/ if their

intellects
for its

obtuse

too

ting,
knot-

the distaff.1

of Aberdeen,

some

been

not

sister

it,"

learn

not

amusement

of the human
had

never

amused

be

stockings."
Johnson
singularin

Dr.

The

he

/ could

freeman

of the value
half

would

man

Knitting of stockings is

"
"

As

amusement.

it will be related in pompous

did this Hercules

nor

own

have

should

but

played

knotting; Dempster's

tried

once

undertook

be

Sir

No,

ment."
instru-

your

well have

as

great things could

undertake

Dr.

another

as

else.

nothing

been

have

should

315

Y.

fortunately
un-

tion.
acquisi-

public morals and

a century
manners
ago, the Spectator,recommends
the same
thing, though with his usual policyhe
of another's advice.
feignsmerely to be the medium
Mr.
are
ceive
Spectator, You
always ready to reand such, I believe,
any useful hint or proposal,
great

of the

censor

"

"

will think

you

employ
that
of

the

you
made

the most

part

that

one

idle

of mankind

women's

put you

may

in

part of the kingdom

who

are

known
"c.

by

to
way
I mean

the

name

Mr.

Spectator,
these
sensible
are
pretty gentlemen are not
for any manly employments, and
for want
of

business
ladies.

are

Now

men,

beaux,

often

as

much

what

I propose

in the

the
as
vapours
is this,that since knotp2

316

ON

ting is again

fashion, which

these

them

useful

it is not

the

to

for it may

coaches,
where

as

inconsistent
be

they

any

done

sake

for the

come

mistakes),

it will be

besides

employment

the

an

fair

of

sex,

more

white

hand

many

and

the eyes

it leaves

before,
short, it

to

their work

at

it

urge

these

male

mixed

allows,

graces,

which

of

manner

use.

respect

up

in

"

P.S.
work

"

The
the

prevent

with.

It

we

as

is

by

see

the

make

it shows

and

that it is

proper

it is sad
for

I shall

sooner

find when

fringe,and

with

that

it

but

be

these

numbers)
that

you
am

fine

better; there being

of

no

further

always

at

your

C. B.

gentlemen
at this time

hands."
fringesthat stay only for more
But, alsa ! the sanguine writer was

of

part

be

admirer.

these

the

done.

was

should

trouble

not

see

pleased I
gentlemen are

considerable

so

they
by

worn

whom,

cannot

only to say,
generallyyour

and

so

will

knotters

this time, but

reader

(except

faction
further, by speaking of the satis-

kingdom (I mean

the

their

to

will

it;

into

and
lady for whom,
Truly, Mr. Spectator, I
have hit upon
something
for

it there

that

fair

capable of;

sion,
diver-

ring to great advantage;

full libertyto be employed as
thoughts and the tongue. In

in every

seems

needless

other

diamond

also the

as

since

the ladies

easilycomplied

readilycome

beaux

And

playhouse, in

of

church, be pleased to forbid

at

to

the

in

make

may

or

game

it

tea-table, and, in short, in all places

the

at

with

will recommend

something that
ladies they admire.

gentlemen

found

been

has

that you

pretty amusement,

very
to

in

STITCHERY.

iare

set

several

mistaken

in

STITCH

ON

317

ERY.

thing
gentlemen had found a someof which they were
capable." The days of
knotting passed away before they had made
any
heard
that
have
we
ever
proficiencyin it ; nor
they have adopted any other branch or stitch of
is variety enough to
this extensive
There
art.
satisfyanybody, and there are gradations enough

supposingthat

at last

"

in

the

stitches

man's.

finny
"

descend

to

There

are

new

bred

"

there is slabbing

any
stitch

tambour
feme

"

veining

"

"

capacity but

to

satin

"

and

"

and

chain

"

"

queen-stitches
;
stitch;seed-

button

ing roping and open stitch : there is sockseam

herring-bone long stitch and cross stitch : there is
stitch
Spanish stitch and Irish stitch:
rosemary
"

"

"

"

"

"

there

"

stitch

is back

"

overcast

"

and

stitch

seam

felling and basting:darning grafting

hemming
and
patching: there is whip stitch and fisher
stitch : there
is fine drawing
ing
gathering marktrimming and tucking.
and
the
Truly all this does require some
vous,
lords of the creation
to be pitied than
more
are
blamed
for that paucityof intellect which
deprives
them
of
for thought."
woman's
pretty excuse
Railleryapart, sewing is in itself an agreeable
useful one ; in many
a
occupation,it is essentially
and
it is a
of its branches
it is quite ornamental,
an
gentle,a graceful,
elegant,and a trulyfeminine
hours of domestic
the solitary
occupation.It causes
life to glidemore
smoothly away, and in those social
unpretending reunions which in country life and in
"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

secluded
away

from

districts
the

abridgesthe

are

yet

not

abolished, it takes

for conversation,
formalityof sitting
for scandal, or, to say the least
necessity

318

ON

of it,

as

have

we

allow, it keeps
there

And

heard

even

frequentand

invest

gallantlordlyman

un

of mischief.

out

us

are

which

STITCHERY.

it with

stances
occurringcircum-

oft

characteristics

of

still

solicitudes
of ?' the sweet
How
liigherorder.
many
that life beguile"are
connected
with this interesting
occupation! either in preparing habiliments for
those dependent on
and for love of whom
our
care,
an

many

adornment
and

is

passingfrom

friend to

the intimation

dark
far

in those

or

tokens

unuseful

not

for in

in ;

put

and

that

they convey,

desolate

about

us,

holding us
occupied in our
fingerswere
a
a purse,
slipper,how
is, when
fraught with
worth

that which

purchase.
which
lines

And

the

the world

of such

behoof.

Oh

valueless

soever

these

home

twentieth

year

first

sky

Since

Ah, would

our

well-known

is well
was

that this

could

but

overcast,

might

be the

my

distress

that

last !

Mary

brought thee low,

My Mary

"

Thy needles,once
For

Now

my

shiningstore,

sake restless heretofore,

rust

disused

and

shine

no

cule,
reti-

memories,

have a fainter flow,

Thy spirits
I see thee dailyweaker
grow,
'Twas

looked

in itself,

nigh past,

My
'

cared

not

ings
be the feel-

would

nature

by

unforgettinghearts far,
in remembrance,
busy

"

The

"

which,

been

of Golconda

mines

suggested these
:

pretty

hearts

our

have

we

that while

were

away

to extra

of remembrance,

friend, soften

absence, and

our

may tend
numberless

stitch which

unnecessary

more,

My Mary

site
exqui-

320

ON

great desire
the

same

have

to

was

greatest comfort
of

STITCHERV.

at

was

of

way

great numbers,

home

and

continuallywith

were

wrhat

was

nearly a fourth part

keeping any servant, but a

afford
the

people

there

were

them.

They

extravagant for

very

their income,

their

as

all the

which

thinking, of

for their house

paid

good house,

they could
little girlto

not

wash

dishes.
All

week

the

that

the

do

time

they

mother

my

did not

that

business

was

the mill to

went

which

seems

is the
way

the

linen, cleaned

dressed

to

mended

dinner,

the
other

what

good

the

nights, to

She

went

corn

ground,

to

there,

managers
made

house,

ready
stockings and

children's
could

she

not

was

two

the

have

with

the

clothes, made

sit up

necessary.

market,
it

there, there

were

for

them,

and,

short, did everything.

in

"

sister, Christian,

Her

diverted

younger,
rest

who

fond

were

is

linear

My
great

aunt

deal

liked

and
to

drudge;

and

the sisters about

morning

before

and

and

mother

Out

of

their

harpsichord for little

in my
now
custody,and most
played and sang well, and
humour,

mother

my
it

well

as

but

had
as

jokes

many

the

she

six

my

mother

to

was

pass

from

him)

; then

able.
valu-

had

ness.
busi-

forced
betwixt

occupations. Every
lighted her father's

him
(she was
study, then waked
good sleeper,which blessing,among
many

inherited

small

tions,
qualifica-

fire in his

she

the

money,

to

same

did, she

used

their different

turn

no

two

or

year

of life and

Though

father

was

of music.

they bought

income
but

her

who

got him,

ever

others,
what

he

321

STITCHERY.

ON

small

he got up, warm

as
usuallytook as soon
with a spoonfulof bitters in it, which
his whole
"

and
life,

Then

them

she

took

all to his
that

I have

of which

he continued

the

receipt.
and brought

up the children
where he taught them

room,

fit for their

age;

was

beer

everything
Latin, others

some

French, Dutch, geography,writing,reading,English,

grandmother taught them what

he employed and
was
necessary on her part. Thus
diverted himself all the time he was
there, not being
able to afford putting them
to school; and
my
"c. ; and

my

she had

mother, when

with the rest in French

herself with
her

writingwhen

half- writ, some

She

had

now

broke

for mirth

"

of the

Her

eldest

him

for the first time

not

long before

their hearts
father

were

he

were
soon

in the

suffered

engaged.
got

in

was

then

mere

dearly

brother

ride

in

to

seen

father,

that

time

and

my
the Prince of

better

before

had

his

Her

they were

gate,but

She

prisonwith
;* and from

in the army, which

They took their

She

her most

there, forfeited and exiled,

was

till theywere

at it without

come

together,was

Orange's Guards,

Prince's

sentence.

societythan

situation with themselves.

same

necessary.
nearest
brother, Patrick, who was

her age, and bred up

beloved.
My father
in the

of

and

she could
when
family,
what she thought more
neglecting
any

of

interrupted,

off in the middle

turn

of songs

book

lesson

also diverted

and

of them

there; many

less

no

and Dutch,
I have

music.

time, took

moment's

providedfor

the Revolution.

in

standing sentry at the

alwayscontrived to do it together,
turn

child,not

more,

if I remember

twelve years old.

p3

than
rightly,

322

ON

and

the

ST1TCHERY.

friendshipand

strict

intimacy

began, continued to the last.

then
Though their station was
; the prince often
up their spirits

low, they kept

"

then

all

admitted

were

girlwanted
the door
each

and

would

of them

call them
stories
hours

this

and

have

dress

set

in

when

any

I could

relate

right

and
many

his

in

for
the

was

attention

constant

ajjpear

gave

talk

could

mother

of her life. Her

across

think

them

made

my

public,
pretty

till she

pass

it,always saying it

tire of

brother

dined

their halberts

let her

not

subject;

never

her

they

pert soldiers.

very

on

him

see

kiss, which

happiestpart
to

go in

to

to

then

that

was

and

linen

which
they wore littlepoint cravats and cuff's,
sat
a night she
good order
many
up to have in as
for him as
of their greatest
any in the place; and one
in dressinghim
he ought to be.
was
as
expenses
As their house
nate
was
always full of the unfortupeople banished like themselves, they seldom
;

"

to dinner

went
to

share

I have
their

without

it with

heard

her
of

manner

them

three, four,
;

and

many

say she could

livingthere

never

or

five of them

hundred

times

look back

upon

thinking it a
plenty of everything

without

miracle.

They had no want, but

and
contentment,
they desired, and much
always declared it the most pleasingpart of her life,
their little distresses ;
not without
though they were
but to them
rather jokes than grievances.
they were
The
of learning in the place
professorsand men
often to see my grandfather; the best entertainment
came
he could give them
alabast
was
a glass of
beer, which

was

better

kind

He

son

Andrew,

the

sent

his

of ale than
late

Lord

common.

Kimmerg-

ON

for them
in the cellar,
boy, to draw some
he brought it
great diligence,but in
up with
other hand the spigotof the barrel.
father
My grand-

hame,
and
the

said,
When

he

beer

'

Andrew

all

was

well know

where

to

get

from

poor

house

to

give it.

was

there

One

the smallest
would

one

from

to

one

night the

go

to

did not

to

gathermoney

for the

bell to

bell

Well, then, I '11go

no

so

at last my

with

it ;

we

money

is

give it,it was

the other

and

came,

people

warn

orkey,which
everybody was so

but

of all coin

casioned
oc-

perhaps they

house, with

in the house

This

the

more.

there

to

speed, but

got there.

mirth, though

hand

in your

with

he

before

out

run

is that

down

ran

It is the custom

"

"

! what

it he

saw

much

no

323

STITCHERY.

doit,

ashamed

and
little,

put

it

grandfathersaid,
can

do

no

more

than

give all we have."

this by the delayof

often reduced
They were
the shipscoming from
to
land
Scottheir small remittances
with
they put
; then
the little plate they had (all of which
they carried
with them) in the lumber, which
is pawning it, till
the shipscame
and that very plate they brought
:
with them
hind
again to Scotland, and left no debt bethem."
This

is

and

Lady

long but

we

were

not

uninterestingdigression,

an

led to it from

the recollection

that

Grisell Baillie, when

encompassed with heavy

not
only sat up a night or two every week,
cares,
but felt a satisfaction, a pleasure,
in doing so, to
the needlework
execute
required by her family.
And
when
sewing with a view to the comfort and
satisfaction
as

of

the

others, the
details

of her

needlewoman

employment

"

ficant
insignimay

ap

"24

STITCHERY.

ON

pear

has

"

much

few

or

her

to her

of whom

task.

of

matron

Her

stayed and

The

she has

finite
de-

an

nor

other

one

important function.
her
are
insignificant

vocation,
Nor

satisfaction

internal

is

at

ever

her

constant

most

sober

handmaidens,

side, inspiriting
attendant

appearance,

lity.
called Uti-

productions

needlewoman's

is

are

found

greatly,and this variation is ascribed with

truth to the influencing
suggestionsof the attendant
for the time being.
is her companion
Thus, for instance, when Utility

to vary

all her labours

the material

are

found

result in articles of which

to

unpretending,and the form simple;

for however
she may
be led wandering by the vagaries
it is always found
of her other co-mates,
that
in moments
of steady reflection she listens with the
most
implicitdeference to the intimations of this
her experiencedand most
respectablefriend.
But occasionally,
indeed frequently,
Utilitybrings
with her a fair and interesting
relative,called Taste
;
and retiring
a gentlebeing,of modest
mien, of most
unassuming deportment, but of exquisitegrace ;
and

it is

is

even

observed

that

the

needlewoman

is

happy in her labours, and more

universally
approved when accompanied by these two friends,
than by any other of the more
eccentric ones
who
themselves
direct her
to
occasionallytake upon
more

steps.
Of

these

latter,Fashion

is

one

of her

most

quent
fre-

it is very often found that as she

approaches Utilityand Taste retire. This is not,

visitors,and

however, invariablythe
agree

case.

cordially
together,and

Sometimes
their united

the three

suffrages

ON

and

enhance

support

325

STITCHERY.

the fame

to the very

highestpitch;
infrequent occurrence,

needlewoman

of the

happy cordiality
is of
and usually of short
duration.
Fashion
is fickle, varying,inconstant;
and
to disruptionsmigiven to sudden partialities
looked
She
for, and as sudden.
laughs to scorn
Utility's
ful
grave maxims, and exaggerates the gracesuggestions of Taste until they appear complete
caricatures.
Consequently they, offended, retire ;
and

heedless, holds

Fashion,

keeping the needlewoman

her arbitrary
rule, which
transient
absence
by her
intimate

greatestinfluence
character
beck

of

of her

over

own,

this whimsical

productionswhich
for, much

But

looked

there

delightand
from

course,

own

complete subjectionto
enforced

in

her

own

absurd

and

their
at, but

is another

hands

of the

guidance are

much

sought

soon

fall into

handmaiden

days,even

The

dictator.

the

from

solace of mankind

the earliest

her

on

is often

emanate

under

needlewoman

in

this

peculiarfriend and
This
fantastic being has the
Fashion, who having no staple
is easilyled every way at the

Caprice.

"

but

in
until

utter

created

tempt.
con-

for the

general,and
now,

has

been

who
the

loving friend of the needlewoman

ing
whisper; ever
suggestionsin her ear, or tracingpatterns on
her work, or gentlyguiding her finger through the
fantastic maze.
She is of the most
exquisite
beauty :
in form as the
that floats on a summer's
fragile
gossamer
breath

"

that illumine
on

an

nay,

atom

the

brilliant in appearance
as the colours
the rainbow.
that she floats
So light,

whole

so

powerful that she raises empires,

earth
by her might. Her habits

326

ON

the

are

most

STITCHERY.

the veriest little gossip in

to

is not

roam

she

imaginable;

vagrant

more

is

indeed

her

creation,

but

boundless

than

sition
dispo-

her power

gratifyit.

to

One

she

instant

is in

the

loiteringupon coral beds ; the

revellingin the immensity of
she

tracks

with

the

comet

foots

the

moment

one

hobnobs

next

with mermaids.

measure

skilful architect, she

most

space

ocean,

the stars,

above

next

in his course,

sea-king,or

of the

depths

will build

palaceson

splendour and beautiful

herself; then, demolishing them with a breath,

the

radiant

clouds

flies to

some

glimpse of
the owl

with

ruin

moss-grown
her countenance

she

the earth, where

of

drives

the wallflower, the

as

away
and

and

the bat
the

ivy, are
and the myrtle ; the
displacedby the rose, the lily,
damp buildingis clothed in freshness and splendour,
the loftyhalls resound
with
the melody of the lute
and the harp, and the whole scene
is vivid with light
and life,with brilliancy
and beauty. Again, in an
;

instant, all is mute,

dim,

and

moss,

desolate, and

and

wafted

hunting the otter

whose
roses
; or, pillowed on
by softest zephyrs around, she

strain

which

versatile

is

sorceress

the

Bulbul

pours

or,

with

the
quimaux
Es-

an

fragranceis
listens to

wrapped

the
in

of philosophicthought, she
treads
deepest maze
of backward
the long extent
time," by the gigantic
sepulchres of Egyptian kings;' or else she flies
"

"

from

the

tempest- rocked

Northern
of the west
"

from

the

Ocean
"

from

teeming

the sirocco deserts

"

Hebrides

from
the

the red

the

of
"

the

from

Amazon

the tufted

bound
ice-

ness
wilder-

man's

steppes of. Central

swamps

of Africa

or

"

Asia
from

islands

328

ON

fall

nerveless
be

to

and

wooed,
be

may

won,

For

"

and

she

forced

attempted
invariably

her

place,

mother

lingers

if

as

has
old

the

in
"

divine
the

high-born
and

sword
"

or

there

in

the

lance"

has

Fancy

companion.

in

canvass

the
or

"

the

in

woman
needle-

the

in

cell

prison
her

of

the

of
the

devoted

of

Tale

"

bright

"

she

of

tabernacle

"

been

which

is,

all.

at

Jewish

the

she

as

accomplished

where

turretted

"

inseparable

the

who
another

by

wanderer

them

quit

in

of

in

ments
orna-

Whim,

but

haunts,

dome

beauty

the

Wit,

favourite

on

the

superabundant

herself,

found,

she

her,

upon

half-brother

yet

persons

vigilance, by leaving
her

to

"

abrupt;

or

case,

hands

"

loath

glowed

the

been

father

Grecian

"

mother

rude

She

been

presence

light."

"

wherever

Finally,

of

angel

an

everything

her

her

are

bright,

her

in

same

even

and

of

their

out

the

without

like

earth

violent

eluded

Humour.

"

not

lay

them,

bright

gentle,

frequently

tricked

from

sprang

and

gentleness

to

blind

to

the

from

has

as

her

holy,

the

smiles

gracious

and

shrinks

has

is

not

all

when,

have

commanded

o'er

her

not

glides

Possessing
Taste,

abased

spotless,

She

STITCHERY.

Troy

bower

days
the

of

pale

royal
friend,

of
the
cluse
re-

tive
capher

329

CHAPTER

'

LES

ANCIENNES

MARYS

XXI.

COVENTRY

HALL,

OF

;*'TAPESTRY

TAPISSERIES
;

OF

TAFESTRY

ST.

TON
HAMP-

COURT.

"

All

There

is

sanctityin

the

past."

Bulwer.

"

are
so
passing
speedily
antiquity
all traces
of those
bygone generationson
away,
"which the mind
loves to linger,
and
which in their
dim and indistinct memories
exercise a spell,
a holy
the imagination
are
often, and a purifyingspellon
will be so
and
when
so
irrevocably
fleeting,
gone

of

monuments

lamented

that

"

lighton the
slightsoever

all testimonies

habits

and

which

of the

manners

certain

throw

past, how

they afford, how trivial

the characteristics they display,
of the
soever
are
highestpossiblevalue to an enlightenedpeople,who
apply the experience of the past to its legitimate
and noblest use, the guidanceand improvement of
the

the testimonies

present.

In

this

subjectof

point of view the work

this chapter* assumes

intrinsic worth
*

"

mens

moyen

Les
Its

"

beautiful

as

age."

Paris.

ce

forms

value

is its execution

Historiees, ou
AnciennesTapisseries

plusremarquables, de

which

genre,

qui

Collection
nous

the

which
"

its

would
desMonu-

soient restes

du

330

ANCIENT

impart

not

valuable
as

as

work

La

"

TAPESTRIES.

it ; and

to

it is thus

rendered

historical record, than

an

less

not

it is attractive

of taste.

chez

(we quote

eux,

from

the

prefaceto

the

work

e'est un
tournoi ; ici un
itself,)
siege ou un
chasse ; et toujours, chasse,
festin, plus loin une
festin,tournoi, siege,tout cela est ponrtraictau vif,
retrace
aurait dit Montaigne, tout cela nous
comme

naturel

au

la vie de

chateaux, leurs
et

meme,

nous

execute

1379,

en

siecles

feconds

l'inventaire

de

la litterature

toute

ete par

ces

ordres

Si

mieux.

qui precederent celui

aurait

monarque,

II y

epoques.

rapportons

en

This

divcrses

amies

leur
legendes explicatives,

aux

grace

langage

leurs

montre
peres, nous
leurs
leurs costumes,
eglises,
nos

V.,

Charles
francaise
de

traduite

ce
en

nous

des
sage

laine."

of all the
representations
search
existingancient tapestrieswhich activityand redraw
the hiding-placesof ages,
from
can
press
copied in the finest outline engraving,with letterdescriptionsof each plate. They are published
in numbers,
and
in a style worthy of the
do not
object. We
despairof seeing this spirited
example followed in our own
country, where many
a beautiful specimen of ancient
tapestry,stillcapable
of renovation
is mouldering unthought of
by care
book

consists

of

"

in the lumber-rooms
We
with

have
which

seen

of

our

ancient

twenty-one

shall deal

mansions.

numbers

of this

work,

freely: excepting,however,
the eight parts which
are
entirelyoccupied by the
ject
Bayeux Tapestry. Our own
chapters on the subwritten before wre were
fortunate
were
enough
include
the whole
to obtain a sight of these, which
we

ANCIENT

of the
in

La

the

correspondence on
sketch

our

331

TAPESTRIES.

which

tapestry to

we

alluded.

Tapisserie

de

et
origine,

remonterait

Prise dans

la tente

Nancy
une

aurait

"
"

haute

assez

de Charles

illustre

une

antiquite.
dela

le Temeraire,lors

prince,en 1477, devant la capitalede

la Lorraine, qu'ilassiegeait,
elle serait devenue
un
de la couronne,
meuble
et aurait servi au
palais des
dues de ce
IV.
2 jusqu'aCharles
pays, depuis Rene
C'estune de ces anciennes
flamandes
tapisseries
de

morte

dont
et

ce

le tissu,de

la soie.

mais

Tor

droits

et

ne
a

La

laine
soie

fine, est

tres

la laine

et

s'apercoit
plus
la faveur

d'un

que

beau

eelaire par

subsistent
dans

soleil.

lor

encore,

quelques

en-

ferons

Nous

le costume
des divers personnages
que
est tout a fait
figurentdans notre monument

remarquer
que

Ce
caracteristique.
les ornements

bien

sont

la les vetements

la moitie

et

du

quinzieme
siecle,et la disposition
le choix du sujet,
artistique,
ainsi que
Texecution
elle-meme
portent bien l'emLa
de 1450 environ.
preintedu styledes ceuvres
de Bourgogne etait fort riche en joyaux,en
maison
vaisselle d'or ou d'argentet en tapis."
The
history,of
tapestry presents an allegorical
which the objectis to depictthe inconveniences
sequent
conLater
what
is called
on
on
good cheer."
this formed
the subjectof
a
morality." Originally
this tapestrywas
vast
only one
page, the requisite
divisions being wrought in the form of ornamented
columns.
and unIt was
afterwards
in pieces,
cut
fortunately
the natural divisions of the subjectwere
More
not attended
to in the severment.
unhappily
en

usage

vers

"

"

still the

pieceshave

since been

rejoinedin

wrong

332

ANCIENT

order;

and

after

possibleendeavour
publishers are indebted

aright, the
Morality before
"

it, and

referred

entitled

was

to, which

"La

was

de

Nef

read

to

every

them
"

TAPESTRIES.

from

taken

Sante,

des Passions

le

avec

gouvernaildu corps humain, et la condamnacion

bancquetz,a la louenge de Diepte et Sobrietc,
Traictie

the

to

des
et la

de Fame."

Banquet, Bonnecompagnic,Souper,Gourmandise,
Friandise, Passctemps,Je pleige d'autant, Je boy
and

vous,

that

other

rare

not forgetting
personifications,

indispensableguest

then in

all

courtlypastime,
Le fol, "go it" to their hearts' content, until they
are
interruptedvi et armis by a ghastlyphalanx in
powerful array of Apoplcxie, Ydropsie, Epilencie,
Pleurisie,Esquinancie,Paralasie, Gravelle, Colicque,
"c.
Tapisserie

serait difficilede

plus fidele

Je

gravure.

de

details

les costumes,
16

un

plus digne

ferai

tableau

immense

trouver

"
"

conviendra

On

de

monument

qu'il

ce

genre

plus interressant
rapport historique,

surle

les arts, et

pour

Dijon.

de

de

outre

en

est

la fois pour

et l'architecture

pour

du

la

reproduitpar

remarquer

laine, qui

precieux a.

siecle,ainsi que

d'etre

combien

cet

unique,renferme
la panoplie,
pour
du

commencement

i'histoire monumentalc

de

Dijon."
This
work
are

we

tapestry,judging by
quote,

be

must

spiritedand

well

the

engravings in

very beautiful.
disposed; and

The
the

the

groups
nances
counte-

expressionin them,
to lead
us
as
readilyto credit the opinionof the
writer that they were
portraits.The buildings are
excellent
in the third piece an
well outlined ; and
have

so

much

nature

and

ANCIENT

effect is

produced by exposing by
window, or some
simplecontrivance

open

of the

displayingthe

so

army,

La

shrine

of the

The

Tremouille,

"

Dame,

of the French

leader

the

before

he offers thanks

as

an

of the sort

of Notre

church

brave

of

means

"

part of the interior

and

333

TAPESTRIES'

Virgin.
worked

tapestry was

immediately

after the

siegeof Dijon,(1513) and represents in three scenes

the most
important circumstances
relating to it;
the costumes,

the

the

and

arms,

architecture

of the

time

and exactitude.
being displayedwith fidelity
The
first represents the invading army
before the
walls; the second a solemn processionin honour of
midst
In the
is
Notre-Dame-de-Bonne-Espoir.
elevated the image of the Virgin,which is surrounded
ligious
by the clergyin their festal vestments, by the rethe bourgeois,
communities, by the nobility,
and the military,
all bearing torches.
To this solemn procession
attributed the truce
was
which led to a more
lastingpeace, though there are
heterodox

some

dissentients

advantage to
able

commander

Bayard
peur

et

the

La

this noted

yet

former

of

being

it

the
with

"

sans

that

some

These

purchased

sufficient of them

magnificence,and

to bear

which

longed
be-

despoiled at the
only owing to an

was

doubtless

was

eft there.
were

chateau

"

hero

of its worthlessness

state,
are

shared

wTho

distinction

Bayard.

de

Revolution, and

tapestry was

policyof

and

Tremouille,

this substantial

reproche."

Tapisseries

idea

attribute

the wisdom

honourable

sans

to

who

of the

ancient

fragments,in
in

1807, and

the date

plorable
de-

there

testimonyto

to decide

their

of their

334

TAPESTRIES.

ANCIENT

creation

fifteenth

of the
from

fourteenth

the close of the

at

Homer's

taken
subjectsare
il est probable (says
trouvait originairement
tout
entier, malgre sa
le travail qui effrayait

The

century.
Iliad/' and

'"

beginning

or

"

M.

Jubinal)que ce poeme se
reproduit en laine presque
longueur,car ce n'etait pas
aieux."

nos

Valenciennes
and

celebrated

was

glossof

its

ness
peculiarfineindefatigable

for the

tapestry, By the

some
industryof certain antiquarians,
pieces in good
have lately
preservationrepresentinga tournament,
taken from a garret, dismantled
been
of their triple
panoply of dust, cleaned and hung up ; after being
their originalabode
in the state aparttraced from
ments
of a prince through various gradations,
to the
damp walls of a registryoffice,where, from their
alone, they escaped being cut into
apparent fragility

floor mats.
Those

of the

there

is little to say

imaginary

are

more

the

sixteenth

chase, and

are

of

than

also named

are

about

of

and

D'Haroue,

Dusommerard,

Collection

but

Chateau

them,

the

as

historical.

here;

subjects

They

with

birds in

of

are

of the

century, representing scenes

enlivened

the

tion,
posi-

every

being, in proportion to other

twice as
figures,certainlylarger than life, and
some

them

"

natural."
Tapisseries
de

la Chaise

de

Dieu

2de
qu'Alexandre
dont
l'originese
de

la

Dieu.

Chaise

fut fondee
canonisa
rattachait

1046

en

plus
a

"
"

tard

L'Abbaye
Robert

par
en

1070

la familie des

; et

comtes

Poitou.
"Robert

fut destinee

de bonne

heure

aux

fonctions

336

TAPESTRIES.

ANCIENT

of old.

the barbarians

than

The

other

two

tries
tapes-

of the Penitents, an
placedin the Church
which
forms
a
now
ancient
refectoryof the monks
dependent chapel to the great temple.
of wool
These
magnificent hangings are woven
and silk,and
one
yet perceivesalmost throughout,
golden and silver threads which time has spared.
for the
them
When
the artist prepared to copy
work wre arc
quoting,no one dreamt of the richness
are

beneath

buried

They

centuries.
says

the

accumulated

were

Je

artist, "

and

dust

carefullycleaned,
suis

de

ebloui

dirt

and

of

then,

cence
magnifi-

cette

mirable.
soupconnions plus. C'est adLcs Gobelins
ne
produisentpas aujourdhui
Imaginez
plus riches et plus eclatans.
ne

nous

que

de

the

tissus

les robes
des femmes,
les ornemens,
les
que
colonnettes
sont
emaillees, ruisselantes de milliers
vous

de

It would

tedious

be

side

is

the Old

around

the

Old

and

New

ments
Testa-

generallyrepresenting

life of

Saviour, whilst

our

some

are

drawn

sentences

the

from

prophets

the

of the close
the sixteenth
and
and

vidually
indi-

tapestries. They

the work

psalms.
These
tapestries
appear

of

these

describe

to

attempt

correspondenttypicalincident
Above
Testament.
are
rhymed quatrains,
below
legendary or scriptural
; and

either
and

in

passage

each

from

of

the centre

some
on

to

the histories of the

interweave
;

"c.
perlcs,"

subjects of

the

or

et de

pierrcsfines

Louis

costumes

XL,

to have

of the fifteenth

been
and

the

the

production
beginning

ture
centuries, denoting in the architecmore

than

the reigns of Charles

of Louis

XII.

and

VIII.

Francis

ANCIENT

Such

337

TAPESTRIES.

pieces were

probablylong in the loom, since

the tapestry of Dijon,composed of a singleled of
twenty-one feet, requirednot less, accordingto a
competent judge, than ten years'labour.
There
these

are

some

beautiful,

most

amongst

even

which we much
engravings,
regret
to
there
see
engravings of the tapestry in the
cathedral of Aix, which tapestryought still to enrich
all-beautiful
"

our

country.

own

barbarous
cherished
bartered
de

those

on

these, amongst

rule

monuments,
for

Shame

"

whose

valuable

relics of

as

were,

foreigngold.

other

under

L'histoire

and

papistry,

manuscrite

la ville d'Aix

avait servi
dit que cette tapisserie
St. Paul
de Londres
toute
a
autre
ou

Teglisede
eglisecathedrale
a

d'Angleterre; qu'aTepoque de la
Reformation, les tableaux ct les tapisseries
ayant ete
exclus des temples,les Anglais chercherent
a, vendre
dans les pays etrangersquelquesunes
des tapisseries
brulerent
en
qui ornaient leurs cathedrales, et qiiils
un
plus grand nombre /"
of our Saviour,
This tapestryrepresentsthe history
in twenty seven
compartments, being in the whole
about 187 feet long. It is supposed to have been
1511, when

about

woven

William

Warham

was

WarCanterbury,and Chancellor.
ham
had
been previouslyBishop of London
; and
this tapestry,and also the arms
his arms
on
are
as
who are supposed to
of two priorbishopsof London
have left legacies
the church which were
to ornament
nufacture,
appliedtowards defrayingthe expenses of this mait seems
tion
quite probablethat its destina-

Archbishop

was

church.

of

St. Paul's, and

The

arms

not

of the kins:

any
are

other

cathedral

inwrought in
Q

two

338

places;

for

of this

church.

churches

Henry

contributed

was

the

worship of

the

Elizabeth, that

the

throughout his

and

as

well
It

Church.

of the church

that those
and

life magnificent

decidedlyunder

more

ceremonies

Roman

churches

Catholic

ancient

completelychanged, and
considered
only decent
as
popish. Nor

decorated

the

from

in his favourite

Edward,

first under

arts ; he

seceded

he maintained

decorations
the

he

though

embellishment

to the

loved

He

and

communion,

as

TAPESTRIES.

ANCIENT

which

had

were

been

tised
stigmabecoming were
its
this fantasy reach

did

height until the time of Cromwell.

Lord
Douglas, Earl of Buchan, who founded the
Societyof Antiquariesin Edinburgh, endeavoured
during the interval of the Peace of Amiens, to treat
with the Archbishop of Aix
for the re-purchaseof
this tapestry. He would
have placed it in a Gothic
church
belonging to an ancient Scotch Abbey on
his domains.
had
this
He
already ornamented
church

with
and

several

of

monuments

quity,
anti-

place this tapestrythere as

broken
off.
national monument,
but the treaty was
a
The
Tapestries
Aulhac,
of
representing the
siege of Troy, and those of Beauvais, embracing a
varietyof subjectsfrom historyboth sacred and profane
Louvre,
representingthe Miracle of
; of the
St. Quentin, tapestry representing Alexander,
of
St. Remi,
at
King of Scotland; and those
Rheims,
Those

wished

beautiful

he

are

to

all engraven

of

and

described.

at
magnificent cathedral church
ferent
Rheims, consistingof fortytapestries,
forming difcollections,but all on religioussubjects,will

probably form

the

the material

for future

numbers.

That

there

ancient

are

fullyequal
almost

certain

summoned

have

but

those
of

by the
Gladly would

enriched

in Engexisting
land
tapestries
in

France

is, we

think,

they are not to be

the "vasty deep" of neglect and
vidual.
powerlessvoice of an obscure indi-

from

oblivion

to

3 39

TAPESTRIES.

ANCIENT

our

course

it been

had

we,

sketch

by

in.our

references

to

power,
of
some

them.
The
drawn

of

followingnotice
from

Smith's

"

Britain

tapestry at Coventry is
of the ancient

Selections

;" and

the

tume
Cos-

of the

tapestries
dences."
at Hampton
Court Palace from
Pyne'sRoyal ResiWe
visited Hampton Court
have recently
for the express
of viewing the tapestries.
purpose
There, we
believe, they were,
entirely(with the
exception of a stray inch or two here and there)
hung over with paintings.
The
splendid though neglected tapestry of St.
terials
Mary's Hall at Coventry offers a varietyof maless interesting
of the sanctity
account
no
on
and misfortunes
is
of the prince (Henry VI.) who
there represented,
than curious as specimensof the
arts of drawing,dyeing,and embroidery of the time
of

names

"

in which

it

was

executed.

length and ten in height ; and

is divided into six compartments, three in the upper
tier and
three in the lower, containingin all upwards
centre
The
of eightyfigures
heads.
partment
comor
and original
of the upper row, in its perfect
of the
state, representedthe usual personification
Trinity (the Trinity Guild held its meetings in
the hall of St. Alary) surrounded
by angelsbearing
It is

thirtyfeet

in

"

the

various

instruments

of the

But

Passion.

q2

the

340

ANCIENT

zeal of

sacrificed this

earlyreformers

our

work, and

in its stead

substituted

Justice, which

of

TAPESTRIES.

holds

now

the

part of the

tasteless

figure
the

scales amidst

originalgroup of surrounding angels.

The
right hand division of this tier is occupied
the
with sundry figuresof saints and martyrs, and
oppositeside
the

In
the

is filled with

centre

many

this fine

of female

saints.

represented
the
the clouds, standing on
by the twelve Apostles and
the two remaining portionsof

in

surrounded

cherubs.

group

below

compartment

Virgin Mary

crescent,

But

is

and

its chief value

tapestry constitute

portance
im-

the

cityof Coventry, as they represent

the figuresof HenryVI., his Queen, the ambitious, and
crafty,and cruel, yet beautiful and eloquent and
dants.
injuredMargaret of Anjou, and many of their attenof Henry, the
During all the misfortunes
citizens of Coventry zealouslysupported him ; and
their cityis styledby historians
Queen Margaret's
As the tapestrywas
secret bower."
purposely made
for the hall, and probably placed there during the
lives of the sovereigns,the figuresmay
be considered
authentic
as
portraits.
to

ee

The
is

Chamber

first Presence

(or was) hung

with

rich

landscape,with
Satyrs,Nereides,
a

Fawns,
There
Audience

is

some

ancient

the

the

Hampton

Court

tapestry,representing

figuresof Nymphs,

"c.

fine ancient

Chamber,

in

tapestryin

the

King's
one
side,

subjectsbeing,on
and Lot dividingtheir lands; and on the
Abraham
other, God appearingto Abraham
purchasingground
for a burying-place.

ANCIENT

The

341

TAPESTRIES.

the walls of the

King'sDrawingthe three
entertaining

tapestryon

represents Abraham
Angels ; also Abraham, Isaac, and
Room

The

tapestry which

King's State

Rebecca.

three

covers

sides

of

the

representsthe historyof

Bedchamber

Joshua.
The

walls of the
with

covered

story of
and

Chamber

Queen's Audience

tapestryhangings,which

Abraham

and

Melchisedec,

are

represent the
and

Abraham

Rebecca.

The

Ball

Room

is called

lery,
Tapestry Galfrom
the superb suite of hangings that ornament
its walls, which
was
brought from Flanders
by General
Cadogan, and set up by order of
scribes
George I. The series of seven
compartments dethe history
the Great, from the
of Alexander
The
paintingsof the celebrated Charles le Brun.
first represents the

storyof

also the

Alexander

and

his horse

Bucephalus ; the second, the visit of Alexander

Diogenes; the third,the passage of Alexander
the

Granicus

mother

and

battle

of

entrance

the

fourth, Alexander's

wife of Darius, in their

Arbela; the
into

into

the

the

over

the

tent, after the

fifth,Alexander's

Babylon

battle with Porus

visit to

to

triumphal

sixth, Alexander's

seventh, his second

entrance

Babylon. These magnificenthangings were

wrought at the Gobelins.
The
tapestry hangings in the king's private
bedchamber
battle of Solebay
describe the naval
the combined
between
fleets of England and France
and

Of

"

the Dutch

all the

fleet,in 1672.

here recorded, the

tapestries
representingthe Battle of Solebay,are now

last

only,

visible.

342

CHAPTER

XXII.

EMBROIDERY.

Flowers, Plants

"

and

Fishes, Beasts, Birds, Fives,and

Bees,

Hils, Dales, Plaines,Pastures, Skies,Seas, Rivers,Trees,

There's
But

with

the

Needle

hand,

at

shap'd and

be

may

all nations

farthest

or

in

very

sought,
wrought."
John

Taylor.

ancient

times

the

celebrated
most
for
Babylonians were
draperiesof the apartments, about which they
even

more

so

needle.

their

about

attire.

noted

request, still these

and

great practice and

maintain
needle

than

anxious

hangings with which their palaces

gorgeouslycelebrated were
wrought by the
And
though now
everywhere the loom is

their

were

in

neere

and

were

All

the

of

Perhaps

Medes

nothing

embroidery.

Persians,

sewing.
doors, and

"

Their

They
other

Sir John

tailors
make

other

nations

eastern

unrivalled
Chardin

skill

says

excel
certainly

ours

in

of the
in their

carpets, cushions, veils for

piecesof

furniture

represents just what

of felt,in Mosaic

they please.
This is done
so
might suppose
neatly,that a man
the figures
were
painted instead of being a kind of
inlaid work.
close as you will,the joining
Look
as
work, which

344

EMBROIDERY.

tents, which

in such

were

Nomadic

request in hot

countries,

militaryexcursions.
The
the Arabs
is usually
coveringof tents among
black goats'hair, so compactly woven
pervious
to be imas
But there is, besides
to rain.
this, always
inner one, on which the skill and industryof the
an
among

fair artisan
and

tribes, or

for both

"

wrought by

white

women

woollen

hung

do

possessors

is

"

Curious
the

over

admit

which

when

fashion, who
;

tents

which

Nadir

out

tent

and

or

on

whole

of rank

more

ambitious

tion
decora-

been

the

travellers of

in various

of his

abundance

was

to
were

be

made

almost

covered

the

in

gorgeous

with

treme.
ex-

spoils,

of

such

beyond

scription.
de-

fine scarlet

cloth, the

which

beasts

of persons

tabernacle

outside

the

of

means

tents

magnificenceas
The

broad

of

usually
frequently

more

accounts

have

must

Shah,

caused

beauty

are

is often

are

are

the

woven

general decoration.
hangings of needlework, are
of

assume

there

and

too

are

This

flowers

hangings

Magnificentperdahs, or
always suspended in the
and

inner

displayed.

entrances,

not

and

outer

stuff, on

embroidered.

on

liningwas of violet coloured satin,

representationsof all the birds and

were

in the
made

of

creation, with

trees

and

flowers

the

pearls,diamonds, rubies, emeralds,

other preciousstones ; and the tent-

amethysts,and
On both sides
in like manner.
decorated
poles were
which
of the peacock throne
were
was
a
on
screen,
the figuresof two angels in precious stones.
The
roof of the tent consisted of seven
pieces; and when
it was
transportedto any place,two of these pieces
packed in cotton were put into a wooden chest, two

345

EMBROIDERY.

of which

chests
the

were

phant
ele-

an

The

chest.

filled another

screen

for

sufficient load

walls

of
which were
and tent-pins,
tent-poles
; so that for
gold,loaded five more
elephants
massy
phants.
elethe carriageof the whole were
requiredseven
all
This magnificent
on
tent was
displayed
festivals in the public hall at Herat, during the
of the tent

"

remainder
Sir

of Nadir

Shah's

J. Chardin

Persia caused

tells

reign.

They called it the House

glittered
everywhere about
was
an
inscription
wrought
antechamber, which
Throne
time

of the

marked

He

it.

upon
it the

of

romance

gold

because

adds, that there

of the

the cornice

of
appellation
and

at

the

Antar's

The

that

name

has

the

from

tent

the

same

of its construction.

the year

out

2,000,000/.

cost

of Gold,

gave
second
Solomon,

followingdescriptionof
Bedouin

which

tent to be made

of

King

late

the

that

us

often

been

quoted :
"

"

When

Shurebah,

for

there

an

under

was

which
It

studded

occupiedhalf the land of

the load of fortycamels ; and
it was
awning at the door of the pavilion

spread

4000
was

with

and

it

of the

Absian

horse

could

embroidered

with

burnished

preciousstones

and

diamonds,

with rubies

pearls;

out

there

and

emeralds,

set

with

mish.
skir-

gold,
spersed
inter-

rows

of

paintedthereon a specimen
thing,birds and trees, and towns,
was

of every created
and cities,
and seas, and

continents, and

beasts, and

confounded
looked at it was
reptiles
; and whoever
and by the
by the varietyof the representations,
of the silver and gold : and so magnificent
brilliancy
the whole, that when
the pavilionwas
was
pitched,

q3

346

EMBROIDERY.

the

of Shurebah

land

and

Mount

Saadi

minated
illu-

were

by its splendour."
4his
we
are
Extravagant as seems
description,
told that it is not so much
exaggerated as we might
Poetical
been
dulged
inlicense
has indeed
imagine.
in to the fullest extent, especially
the
to
as
size of the pavilion; yet Marco
Polo in sober earnest
describes one
under
which
10,000 soldiers might be
drawn
icithout
incommoding the nobles at the
up
"

"

audience.
It is well
followers

known
imitate

to

embroideries
the
to

or

originof
human

which

portion

Spain

were

and

did

the

race

the

of any

combinations
forms

which

of
are

as

before

Hence

sort.
we

their

now

use

from

patterns

excluded.

That

in the Moors

merged

alluded

his

insect in

or

arabesque,which

animal

using tapestry for

At

work

forbade

for
especiallyremarked
beautiful decorative
work;

borrow,

we

animal

any

term

and

of the

Mohammed

ornamental

all odd

express

that

their
and

of

cent
magnifi-

from

them

to, the custom

of

curtains.

perhaps more
patient
embroiderers
and laborious
than the Chinese; their
are
regularityand neatness
supposed to be unequalled,
and the extreme
with which they work
care
serves
pretheir shades bright and shining.
The
Indians excel in varietyof embroidery. They
embroider
with cotton
muslin, but they employ
on
on

gauze,

present day none

are

rushes, skins of insects, nails and

claws

of

dry fruits,and above all,

the feathers
of birds.
They mingle their colours
without
taste ; it is only a
harmony as without
no
plan,
speciesof wild mosaic, which announces
animals, of walnuts, and

347

EMBROIDERY.

and

object.

representsno

of Persia

tribes

The

of the

women

those

weave

rich

dering
wan-

carpets

the place of
from
Turkey carpets,,
their immediate
importation. But this country was
formerlycelebrated for magnificent embroideries,
and
also for tapestries
composed of silk and wool
embellished
with
gold. This latter beautiful ark
of
though not entirelylost, is nearly so for want
which

called

are

But

encouragement.

Moguls

the most

were

embroideries
covered

with

all

of

celebrated

walls,couches, and
silk

or

cotton

nations

eastern

for their

fabrics

splendid

floors

even

the

were

richlyworked

with

gold,and often, as in ancient times, with gems

inwrought. But this empire has ever been proverbial
for its splendour; at one
time the throne of the
estimated
made
at 4,000,000/. sterling,
Mogul was
other jewels,received in gifts
and
up by diamonds
during a long succession of ages.
We
have, in a former chapter,alluded to the custom
of embroidery in imitation of feathers,and also
work.
for using real feathers for ornamental
This
is much

the

the

inhabitants

countries.
many
Holland
make

feathers, with

with

they are

not

Various

articles

of them,

as

have

New

of

flowers

we

in

custom

uncommon,

of

feather

seen

consummate

Some

of

artificial

skill;and

though vastlyinferior,here.
dress are
made
seen
frequently
"c. ; and
muffs, feather tippets,

within

the

last few

months

bonnet

This, however, is
peacock'sfeathers.
Mrs.
the extreme
of fancy. The celebrated
certainly
with feathers :
Montague had hangings ornamented
of the
the hangings doubtless
are
gone : the name
ip her
accomplished lady who displayed them
covered

with

348

EMBROIDERY.

fashionable

poet, who
for

halls

sinking into oblivion, but

perchance merely glanced at them,
is

the
lives

ever.

ON

MONTAGUE'S

MRS.

**

The
To

birds
dress

room

peacock sends

His

rainbows

cock

hisarch'd

tribes Leside

This
Nor
Shall
But

with

tail's

shew;

azure

his

swan

of Indian

snow.

name,

glossyshine, or vivid flame,

rises,and

they

wht-re

boast

sets the

of rich and

to the gorgeous

to advance

it all

da}',
gay,

plan,

they can.

plumage, neither dashing shower,

blasts that
drench
screen'd

It boasts

Safe with

"

from

moss-

embroider
;

so

agates,

brilliant

with

their

own

the
copy beautifully
of several plants.
and
skins

patientlysmoothed.

of fur

blows

they

in their works

insinuate

that

ev'rystorm

women

of

drippingbow'r,

again or discompose

that of animals

is not

the

shape

splendourever new,
protectingMontague."

Canadian

ramifications

infold

round

downy gold ;

river blanch'd, the

Proud

as

of

serpents and
If

that of the

their

broidery
em-

Chinese, it

less industrious.

the skin of
Senegal embroider
of all colours.
of flowers and figures
Turks
and
lously
marvelGeorgians embroider
the lightest
delicate crape.
most
or
gauze

negresses
different animals
The

his starry eyes ;

The

Contribute

The

and

heavenly dyes,

mantling neck

Whate'er

is not

his

His

Where

morsels

Montague.

pheasant plumes, which

That

They

ev'ryhue,

The

All

hair and

for

The

And,

Some

off their

put

HANGINGS.

FEATHER

of

349

EMBROIDERY.

They use gold thread with inconceivable delicacy

;
they represent the most minute objectson morocco
without varying the form, or frayingthe finest gold,
quently
to us.
by a proceeding quite unknown
They fretheir embroidery with
ornament
pieces of
of different

money

of this

aware

who

thread

and

is the

muslin

on

are

we

The

in France, but
the

ably disputedby

twisted
un-

and

has

Milan
dearness

much

is also

There

of it.

use

and

its excessive

celebrated, but

delicate

most

complished
ac-

of that kind.

acquaintedwith
embroidery of Venice

correct

are

in their old

coins.
interesting
the designs of the most
Saxons
imitate
work-people; their embroidery with

The

the

find

often

circumstance

valuable

garments

been

travellers

nations, and

long

prevents

beautiful

broidery
em-

palm for precedence is

those of
Germans,
especially
the

Vienna.
This

and

progress

nations

various

amongst
curious

research, but

for

pages.

our

earliest

have

which

it

was

beautiful

of the

when
in

"

ornament

But

the

is

to the

it would

leaf

from

endless

as

in
their

which

Corinthian
be

age

from

the imitation
same

no

been,

first ornaments

dress, was

intimations

the moment

they departed

be

in

luxury
subject of
lengthened

of it at
which

the

it appears

laid aside, no nation

in
totally
disrepute. Some of its most

patterns have

adaptation of
one

utter

this

of

intricate and

too

there

been

in

would

have

We

period,and

to

variations

in

architecture, the

natural

for
objects,
Roman
embroidery,
primitivesimplicity

of the leaf of the

imparted
capital.
to enter

grace

into the

thus
acan-

and

subject

350
of

EMBROIDERY.

which
patterns,,

doubtless

nally
everywhereorigi-

were

simpleenough, with
here and there

"

tuft of crimson

yarn,

Or scarlet crewel."

often have
must
planned, and
patient minds
assiduous
fingersmust long have wrought, ere such
the covering
achievement
an
as
even
was
perfected,
of the jointstool described
by Cowper:
And

"

At

Improved
Gave

Yellow
And

vermicular,

and

green

the

see

ye

rose,

lambkin

and

piony spread wide,

the

days

shepherd

with black

twin

parrots with

the

blue,

sublime.

close,or needlework

full-blown

from

legs four,

red, of tapestryrichlywrought

might

And

three

plenteous wadding stuff'd,

with

splendidcover,

woven

Lapdog

form

twisted

and

There

made

simpleplan ;

o'er the seat

Induc'd

The

the

them

And

But

refin'd

length a generationmore

and

his

staringeyes,
in their beak."

cherries

Elizabeth

of

lass,

the

practiceof
ornamental
of embroidery,had
needlework,
dually
gradeclined in England : the literary
and
lastic
schopursuitswhich in her day had superseded the
use

of

fashion

the

did

needle,

of later times

indeed

not

continue

still the needle

was

not

been

sumed,
re-

perhaps has embroidery and tapestry

been so much
from
the days of Elizabeth
tised
pracit is now.
as
Many individuals have indeed
nor

ever

the

celebrated,
{"

She

With

wrought
pen,

Curious

as

one

all needleworks

frame,

knots

thus

or

or

"

that

stoole ; all

what
trailes,

Beasts, birds, or flowers,even

women

exercise,

picturesartificial,

fancy could devise;

as

thingsnatural."

352

EMBROIDERY.

In obedience

"

to the

commands

of my
weighed this

correspondent,I have duly

subject,and promise myself
here

laid down,

will be

all the

important
arguments

fine ladies of

the

as
ready,as soon
Anne) to appear

Queen
their

that

the

from

venerable

is

mourning

covered

England
over
(for
of

the work

with

hands.

own

"

What

the

fair

sex

tenderness

of

business,

must
entertainment
delightful
their native
whom
modesty,

towards

men

to pass

them

their hours

it be to
and

exempt from

the

public

imitatingfruits

in

and

flowers, and

transplantingall the beauties of nature

into their own
creation
in
dress, or raising a new
their closets and
pleasing is
apartments ! How
the amusement
and
of walking among
the shades
groves planted by themselves, in surveying heroes
slain by the needle, or little Cupids which they have
brought into the world without pain !
*

This

"

is,methinks, the

most

proper

wherein

way

lady can show a fine genius; and I cannot forbear

wishing that several writers of that sex had chosen
rather to tapestry than
to apply themselves
rhyme.
Your
pastoralpoetesses may vent their fancy in
great landscapes, and place despairingshepherds
a

under

silken willows, or
The

mohair.

heroic

and
successfully,
with

them
turn

to

stitches
graces
"c

into

If I may,

that any

or

into

writers

inflame

them

with

those

purse,

and

of

stream

of battles

gold,or
have

who

epigram, may

an

in

work

may

them

Even

crimson.

song

drown

put
crowd

many
a

as

stain

only a
able
valu-

thousand

pair of garters.
without

pretty

breach
creature

of

good

is void

manners,

of

gine
ima-

genius,and

353

EMBROIDERY.

perform her part

would
I must
be

nevertheless

"

Another

works

of

usual

inactive

their birds
allowed

Tory will be but

great disputeis,whether

the

colour.

proper

Sophronia do

How

the

who
"

Frenchmen

are

third

reason

much

red is

or

the

now

greater glory would

much

so

where

mentioned

blue

generalif she

herself with

children, and

own

seldom

the battle of Blenheim

to work

all

ing
they are formneighbours will be

of their

and

Whig

and

While

beasts, their

the fathers

to be

off from

of tea-tables

of life.

and

in

women

them

it takes

attendant

scenes

way.

busying good

for

fancy is, because

scandal, the
other

of harm's

argument

awkwardly,
working,if it

very
her

insist upon

her out

only to keep

but

herein

nalise
tapestry than sig-

in

againstthose

vehemence

in their hearts
I shall mention

rather

choose

would

is,the profitthat

is

brought to the familywhen these pretty arts are

encouraged. It is manifest that this way of life not
onlykeeps fair ladies from running out into expenses,
but is at the same
time an actual improvement.
"

have

How

memorable

it subscribed

wrought out
in a good old

the

the

The

"

whole

shall

She

that

tapestry,and

died

covered

'

300

yards of

!'

premises being considered,

to

humbly

all mothers

submit

in

Great

"

1. That

no

young
to receive the addresses
suit of her
"

in

having

House

be, who

monument,

Bible

followingproposals

Britain

that matron
her

upon

age, after

wall in the Mansion

"

would

2. That

own

virginwhatsoever
of

her

be allowed

first lover, but

in

embroidering.
before

every

fresh humble

servant

she

354

EMBROIDERY.

the

to

with

appear

stomacher

new

at

least.
"

That

3.

hath

"

no

the

These

virgins

fingered

in

for
if

decayed
of
their

actually

pillows,

mantle

laws,
the

restore

be

one

child-bed

the

likewise

the

obliged

be

shall

the

mistake
art

Great
business."

ready

"c,

boy

quite
not,

of

Britain

married

until

she

stitched,

as

finished.

would

needlework,

exceedingly

effectually
and

make
nimble-

355

CHAPTER

XXIII.

NEEDLEWORK

ON

",And

often did

On

that which

in her

In

velvet bound

and

Her

Within
Preserved
These

from

hoards

Deep

indeed

which

"we

value

than

"

Books

age

to age

of truth

are
can

hand

are

silent chambers

whose

our

we

she

look
she

bore,

broider'd o'er

breviarybook."
u

BOOKS.

"

Marmion.

ours,

lies

treasure

"

can

at will."

unlock

"

obligationsfor

unlock

Wordsworth.

those

at will :" treasures

treasures

of far

more

gold or gems., for they oftentimes bestow

that which gold cannot
purchase even forgetfulness
of sorrow
and pain. Happy are those who have a taste
for reading and leisure to indulge it.
It is the most
beguilingsolace of life : it is its most ennobling pursuit.
with the
It is a magnificentthing to converse
them
master
of past ages, to behold
as
they
spirits
were
mingle thought with thought and mind
; to
with mind ; to let the imaginationrove
based however
the authentic
record of the past
on
through
"

"

"

dim

and

distant

prophets of

the

ages;
ancient

to

behold

earth

; to

the
hold

fathers
communion

and

356

NEEDLEWORK

ON

BOOKS.

prophets,and kings ; to kneel at

the feet of the mighty lawgiver: to bend at the shrine
of the eternal poet ; to imbibe
from the
inspiration
eloquent,to gather instruction from the wise, and
pleasurefrom the gifted; to behold, as in a glass,
all the majesty and
all the beauty of the mighty

with

and

martyrs

Past,
Time

in

revel

to

accumulated

all the

this,all this, we

have

people worlds at will ; but

alone give permanence
can

that

and

"

to
soar

may

time

and

by reading the privilege

do. Imagination indeed, the giftof heaven,
elate,unchecked, though untutored
through
to Eternity,and may
space, through Time

which
is

of

treasures

ennobles

acquiredfrom
Song

truthful

to her

ledge
visions, that know-

purifiesand

and

which

basis

elevates

them

books, whether

of the Muses, says historic tale,

Science

severe,

or

word

of

Holy Writ,

Announcing immortalityand joy."

The

"

its

over

themes
page

"

word

Holy Writ," the Bible

hopes, its promises, its consolations
are

but

of

"

sacred

too

here,

we

its freshness, its

for reference

even

may

remark,

prime,

see

we

on

we

pass
these

"

our

light

the world

glory. We
angelicwomen.

its

in

converse

We
and
see
trulywith godlikemen
the mighty and majesticfathers of the human
race
sin had corrupted all their godlikeseeming ; ere
ere
inherited
of
the bequeathed and
sorrows
sorrow
had
face divine;"
human
quite seared the
ages
sloth, and luxury, and corruption,and decay,
ere
"

"

"

had
heaven

walk

altered
to

step

features
the

gross

by step

over

semblance
the

similitude

in the

formed

new

of

earth

fresh

and

earth

as

of
we

yet

NEEDLEWORK

357

BOOKS.

ON

and behold
the ancient
by foot of man,
solitudes graduallyinvaded
by his advancingsteps.
faithful comMost gentle,most
panions
soothing,most
for the
books.
are
They afford amusement
lonelyhour ; solace perchancefor the sorrowful one :
tion
they offer recreation to the light-hearted
; instructhe aspiring
to the inquiring;inspiration
to
mind ; food
for the thirstyone.
haustible
They are inexin extent
in variety: and
oh ! in the
as
silent vigilby the sufferingcouch, or
during the
who
too highlypraise
can
languor of indisposition,
untrodden

those

friends

silent

silent indeed

"

to

the

ear,

but

which
speaking eloquentlyto the heart
beguile,
the mind
from present depressing
even
transiently,
with
care,
strengthenand elevate it by communion
the past, or solace it by hopes of the future !
of the firstof modern
Listen how sweetlyone
men
his books :
apostrophises
"

"

"

My days

the dead

among

Around

casual

these

eyes

mighty minds of
friends
My never-failing
The

With

whom

With

them

And

How

With
"

tears

Their

woe

to them

of

and

feel

I owe,

often

been

bedew'd,

thoughtfulgratitude.
with

long past

the

dead

years

; with

them

virtues love, their faults condemn,

Partake
And

are

I understand

My thoughts are
I live in

old ;

delightin weal,

relief in

have

cast,

are

they,
day by day.

converse

I take

much

cheeks

My

seek

while

And

I behold,

me

Where'er

past

are

from

Instruction

their

hopes

their lessons
with

and
seek

humble

fears,
and
mind.

find

353

NEEDLEWORK

My

"

ON

with

hopes are

My place with
And

I with

all

Through
Yet

Yet

how

books

little are

poured

real value
be

again

Nor

I trust,

name,

dust."

the

of the

we

present day,who

laps, able

estimate

to

possible that
were.
they once

they

is it
as

have
their

can

The

ever

sal
univer-

the incalculable

of them,

seems

on

futurity;

our

estimated

diffusion
of them,

into

be,

shall travel

perishin

will not

; anon

will

them

leaving here

That

dead

the

them

BOOKS.

multiplication
it impossiblethat the world

to render

call
No.
We
must
deprived of them.
of the spirits
of the
pious and painful
np some
the fourth estate
of
of those days when
amanuenses
the realm, the publicpress
to tell us the
not
was
real value of the literary
esteem
treasures
now
so
we
lightly. He will tell us that in his day the donation
of a singlebook
house
to a religious
was
thought to
give the donor a claim to eternal salvation ; and that
an
offeringso valued, so cherished, would be laid on
the high altar amid
and pageantry. He might
pomp
the prior and convent
perhaps personallyremember
of Rochester
of
pronouncing an irrevocable sentence
him who
should
damnation
on
purloin or conceal
of Aristotle's phytranslation
their treasured
Latin
sics.
can

be

ever

"

"

"

"

He
of

tell

laborious

years

of others

others, Osmond,

us

that

the holiest and

wisest

and
forego ease
luxury and spend
in
for the
transcribing books

would

men

good

would

he

will tell

Bishop
*

of

us

that

amongst

many

Salisbury,did this,

Southey.

and

360

NEEDLEWORK

ON

tion of literature than

BOOKS.

the laborious

even

and

tedious

of the books.
About
ter
Mas1 120, one
transcription
of St.
Hugh, being appointed by the convent
Edmondsbury to write a copy of the Bible, for their
could
no
library,
parchment in England.
procure
The
of the scarcity
of books before
followingparticulars
the era of printing,
gatheredchieflyby Warton,
are
interesting.
In 855, Lupus, abbot
of Ferrieres in France, sent
of his monks
the third, to beg
two
to Pope Benedict
a

copy

of Cicero
and

although
whole

no

other

some
we
or

and

of

abbot,

in all France.

who
had

expense

the

books, yet there is

them

Gemblours,

immense

volumes

for, says

of

complete copy

Albert, abbot
labour

books:

part of these

have

tutes,
Quintilian'sInsti-

Oratore, and

de

with

incredible

collected

dred
hun-

and
theological,

fiftyon general
imagined he had formed a splendidlibrary.
subjects,
unlimited
About
790, Charlemagne granted an
right to hunting to the abbot and monks of Sithin,
their gloves and
for making
girdlesof the skins of
for their books.
the deer they killed,and covers
At the beginning of the tenth century, books
were
and the same
in Spain, that one
so
scarce
copy of the
volumes
of
Bible, St. Jerome's
Epistles,and some
ecclesiastical offices and martvrologies,often served
several

on

different monasteries.

Amongst

the

constitutions

given to

the monks

of

lowing
England by Archbishop Lanfranc, in 1072, the folAt the beginning of Lent,
:
injunctionoccurs

the librarian is ordered

to

the

year

religious
; a

whole

of this book

! and

deliver

book

each

of

for the rusal

peat the returningLent, those
was

allowed

to

NEEDLEWORK

monks

who

had

ON

neglectedto

received,
respectively
themselves

low

read

regulationwas

theyhad

to

prostrate

gence.
supplicatehis indulpartlyoccasioned by the
to

of literature in which

state

the books

commanded

are

before the abbot

This

361

BOOKS.

Lanfranc

found

English monasteries to be ; but at the same

of necessity,
and
was
a matter
partlyto be
the scarcityof copies of useful and
to

the

time

it

referred
suitable

authors.
John

de
of

rowed
Pontissara,Bishop of Winchester, borhis cathedral

Winchester,

of St. Swithin

convent

in 1299, Bibliam

Glossatam,

bene

at
or

the Bible, with

marginal annotations, in two large

he givesa bond for due return
folio volumes
; but
of the loan, drawn
up with great solemnity. This
the same
Bible had been bequeathed to the Convent
Bishop Nicholas de.Ely :
year by his predecessor,
of so importanta bequest,and
and in consideration
founded a daily
the monks
100 marks in money,
mass
for the soul of the donor.

About

1225

Roger

Latin

Bibles

de Tusula, dean

of York, gave

the

Universityof Oxford,
with a condition that the students who perused them
should
deposita cautionarypledge.
before the year
The Library of that University,
1300, consisted only of a few tracts, chained or kept
in chests in the choir of St. Mary's Church.
often
Books
brought excessive prices in the
several

middle
at

ages.

to

In 1174, Walter, Prior of St. Swithin's

Winchester, and afterwards

purchasedof
Bede's
twelve

measures

the

monks

Homilies
of

abbot

of Westminster,

of Dorchester

and

St. Austin's

barley,and

pallon

shire
Oxford-

in

Psalter, for
which
R

was

362

ON

NEEDLEWORK

in silver the

embroidered
a

1400,

de la Rose
for

historyof

Birinus

ing
convert-

king.

Saxon

About

BOOKS.

of John

copy

the

sold before

was

forty crowns,

or

de

Meim's

Roman

palace-gateat

Paris

33/. 6s. Qd.

the Third's

In Edward

marks
reign,one hundred
paid to Isabella de Lancaster.

(equalto 1000/.) were

of Ambresbury,
a nun
for the

her

from

for

book

of

romance,

chased
pur-

king's use.
of

book

the

Gospels,in the
graphy
Cotton
Library, as a fine specimen of Saxon calliIt is written
and decorations.
by Eadfrid,
Bishop of Durham, in the most exquisitemanner.
mentions

Warton

Ethel wold

his

did the

successor

capitalletters, the picture of

Evangelists,with infinite labour
Bilfred, the
written

and

anchorite,
It

stones.

was

the

finished

cross,

and

covered

with

adorned,

illuminations, the
and

the

elegance; and

the

book,

thus

silver

platesand precious

about

720.

teries
given in the English monasbooks
for transcribing
was
very considerable.
In every great abbey there was
an
apartment called
The
stantly
conScriptorium;" where many writers were
busied
in transcribing not
only the Service
for the Library. The
for the choir, but books
Books
built by
was
Scriptorium of St Alban's Abbey

The

encouragement

"

Abbot

volumes

Paulin,
to

be

Lanfranc

often
That
mills.
to

the

who

Norman,

there, about

written

furnished

the

tithes

Cathedral

of

convent

rectory
of

of

Estates

the

were

Scriptorium

endowed
were

many
bishop
Arch-

1080.

copies.

granted for the support

St. Edmundsbury
at
was
The

ordered

with

two

appropriated

St. Swithin, at Win-

ON

NEEDLEWORK

chester, ad

libros

trans

363

BOOKS.

crib end

os,

the

in

year

1171.
the
gave
churches, ad libros faciendos.

Nigel in
two

When
in

the

1091,

which

the

monks

libraryat Croyland Abbey

hundred

seven

have

must

1 160

year

been

volumes

thus

of

was

Ely

burnt

consumed,

were

laboriously
produced.

volumes
transcribed at Glastonbury
were
Fifty-eight
during the government of one Abbot, about
the year 1300. And
in the libraryof this monastery,
the richest in England, there were
upwards of four
hundred
But

volumes

in the year

whilst there
of former

penmen

books, shall

we

the

cause
mere

at the

marvel

invested

they were

is sufficient

days, in

not

1248.

rich and

the

to

admire

the

of
transcription
beauty with which
brilliant illuminations,

finelytinted paintings,the magnificent

with which not merely every
and laborious ornament
manuscripts almost every line
page, but in many
decorated ! They, such as have been preserved,
was
form a valuable
proportionof the riches of the principal
European libraries : of the Vatican of Rome ;
at Venice ; the
the Imperialat Vienna
; St. Mark's
Escurial in Spain ; and the principal
publiclibaries in
England.
MSS.,
The
art of thus illuminating
now
entirely
lost, had attained the highest degree of perfection,
and is,indeed, of ancient
origin. In the remotest
the

times

the

been

varied

Diodorus
on

which

amongst

colours

common

by luxury

Siculus
MSS.

and

of black
taste.

and

Herodotus

the eastern

have
and

purple and yellow skins,

written in gold and silver ; and
nations roils of this kind (thatis

mention

were

white

r2

364

ON

NEEDLEWORK

gold and

silver

found

abundance,

in

BOOKS.

executed,
purple),exquisitely

on

of

are

Still

later date.

they
familiar with the practiceat a
appear to have been
much
remote
more
period; and it is probablethat the
Greeks
acquiredthis art from Egypt or India. From
the Greeks it would naturally
pass to the Latins, who
acquaintedwith it earlyin the
appear to have been
second century. The
earliest specimen of purple or

rose-coloured

Emperor

vellum

present
in

vellum

however,

is recorded

in

the life of the

the younger,
to whom,
of the third century,his mother

Maximums

commencement
a

but

of the poems

gold

Homer,
Such

letters.

this time

at

of

very

rare.

in the

made

purple
productionswere,
written

The

on

celebrated

Argenteus of Ulphilas,written in silver and

gold letters on a purpleground, about 360, is probably
the most
ancient existing
specimen of this magnificent
of calligraphy.In the fourth century
mode
Codex

it had

become
allude

more

common

many
St. Jerome

ecclesiastical

does
especially
dialoguehas reference
so; and the following
spirited
to his somewhat
condemnatory allusions.
"Purple vellum Greek MSS." says Breitinger, if
!''
I remember
than white crows
rightty,are scarcer
all about them,' as the
Belinda.
Pray tell us
children say."

writers

to

it, and

"

"

Philemon.

your

gown

"Well, then,

'

at your

rival the emblazoned

next

court

visit,let

aspect of these old

purple vellums, and let stars of silver, thickly

"powdered" thereupon,emulate, if they dare, the
the purple membraGreek letters upon
naceous
silver capital
tions
fragments which have survived the desolaI do not speak coldlyupon
of time ! You
see,
!"
this picturesquesubject

NEEDLEWORK

Alimansa.
the

! But

Philemon.

"The

limited.

before

The

Psalter

or

the

be

determine

to

that
those
to

"I
of

attainments

am

own,

what

subscribe

with
if I

me

against that venerable

Jerom

You

"

Philemon.

St.

were

or

the purple

take

cannot

right you

should

upon
be informed

coxcombs, all

as

attached
violently

so

of the Greek

imagined

the

to

called the

is now

excuse

all the

purple colour."
have a great respect for the literary
St. Jerom
although in the
; and

willingto
or

as

denounces

time,

own

of taste, connected
must

it is

but

are

the white

of the old Italic version

absence
I

me

ancient, I

St. Jerom

favourite

Lisardo.

with

Museum,

guished
being distinapprehend little more

to

Whether
more

who, in his

your

the British

purple tint,for

Vienna, the fragment

at

occur

MSS.

ancient

more

libraries abroad,

now

tint remains.

vellum
me

few

just

by
than

in

two

of the

Pentateuch

Gospels in

which

MSS.

preciselyas if I were in
proceed and expatiate."
field for expatiating
is unluckily

fact

noticed, the
of the

365

BOOKS.

do I feel

Nor

"

frigid zone

very

ON

the

excellence

of his

Vulgate,yet in matters
harmony of colour,you

choose

to

fathers

decision."

enter

my

to mistake

appear
that

Bible,

protest

the matter

this

appetite for purple

artificial and
rather
was
quiring
voluptuous; reand that,in the
regulationand correction

MSS.

"

end,

would

men

intrinsic worth

We

must

colloquy.

former

prefer the
of their vellum

not

omit

the

note

colour

to

the

treasures."

appended

to

this

SG6

NEEDLEWORK

The

"

generalidea

MSS.
let

rather

us

to be

seems

intended

were

say,

only

tasteful

collecting. St. Jerom, as

is very biting in his sarcasm
leaves covered

BOOKS.

ON

that

blades,"

choice

for"

bibliomaniacs
Philemon

book

in

"

above

observes,

these

upon

lum
Vel-

Purple

purple

"

with letters of

For
gold and silver."
myself and my friends (adds that father),let us have
lower pricedbooks, and
distinguishednot so much
for beauty as for accuracy."
remarks
that these
Mabillon
purple treasures
for the
noblemen
of the
were
princes and
"

"

"

'

'

'

times.
"

And

we

learn

the

from

twelfth

volume

of

the

Specileginum of Theonas, that it is rather somewhat

unseemly to write upon purple vellum in letters
unless
desire of
at the particular
gold and silver,
'

of
a

"

prince.'
The
frequentlyregulated
subjectalso of MSS.
of executing it. Thus
the
learn from
the mode
we
28th Epistleof Boniface
(Bishop and Martyr) to the
abbess Eadburga, that this latter is entreated
to
the Epistles of St. Peter, the master
and
write
Apostle of Boniface, in letters of gold,for the greater
the Sacred
to be paid towards
reverence
Scriptures,
the
Abbess
when
preaches before her carnally"

'

minded

auditors.'

About

"

the close of the

of York

seventh

from

remark

seculis nostris
This

his church

procured for

Gospels thus adorned;

then new
was
calligraphy
made

quoddam

art, however,

and
in
on

bishop
century the Arch-

that

this

copy

of the

magnificent

may be inferred
"inauditam
ante

England
it that

miraculam."

shortlyafter

declined

every-

368

NEEDLEWORK

form

of them

OX

BOOKS.-

altogetheraltered. With a view

vished
the safetyof the riches lato the preservationand
made
them, the bindings were
double,
on
each side being perhaps two inches thick ; and on
a
lock opened, it
spring being touched, or a secret
divided, almost like the opening of a cupboard-door,
in
withand
and treasure
displayedthe rich ornament
closed, the outside had only the
; whilst, when
of a plain,somewhat
clumsy binding.
appearance
At

was

that time, too, books

the leaves

with

taken, both
in the

in

united

the
of

The

front; therefore

in the decoration

rich and

ornamental

wooden

sides.

gold,inlaid
sides

wooden

ranged

were

with

edges, and also

claspsand stringswhich
quently
freThese
clasps were
jewels.
of the

leather, with vellum, with velvet,

"

there

is

fourteenth
there

is

century

this

velvet

advanced,

was

not

Elizabeth

Queen

purpose.

time

as

which

substance

with

covered

though probably
binding before the

and, indeed,

scarcelyany

to

of

specimen

no

great pains were

afterwards

were

shelves

on

plied
ap-

had

little volume

in solid gold, which

of prayers
bound
prayer-time she suspended by a gold chain at

at

her

side; and

devotional

we

book

ancestress

few

years

ago,
the
to

which

King, Charles,
the

saw,

beautifullybound

small

Martyrbelonged
which
was
given by him to

and
of

the

friend

who

in tortoise-shell

showed
and

it to

us,

finely-carved

silver.
But

it

was

not

that the
their

bindings
beauty. The

needlewoman

were

to

gold

and

of former

preciousstones alone
for
indebted
days were

richest and
often

rarest

wrought

on

devices

of the

the velvet, or

NEEDLEWORK

brocade,

which

became

material

369

BOOKS.

ON

the
exclusively

more

ionable
fash-

to have
binding. This seems
been a favourite occupationof the high-born dames
about Elizabeth's day ; and, indeed, if we remember
the new-born
at its
passion for books, which was
heightabout that time, we shall not wonder at their
well as
as
industrybeing displayed on the covers
the insides*.
been
But
a
very probably this had
favourite objectfor the needle long before this time,
of the work was
though unhappilythe fragility
equal
these needleworked
have
to its beauty,and
covers
doubtless, in very many
instances, been replaced
by
substantial binding.
more
The
ing
of bindearliest specimen of this description
is
Fichetus
remaining in the British Museum
(Guil.)Rhetoricum, Libri tres. (Impr.in Mcmbranis)

for

"

4to. Paris

ad Sorbonse, 1471.

It has

title-page,
showing

the

author

knees, his book

the

Pope;

to

throughoutwith illuminated
for long after the
;

an

illuminated

presenting,on

his

it is decorated

and

letters and
invention

other
of

blank

ments
orna-

printing,
headings

and
left,for the capitals
spaces were
filled up by the pencil. Hence
it is that we
to be
find some
books
quite incomplete; these spaces
having been left,and not filled up.

failed,
illuminaitngstill more
the red ink was
used as a substitute, and everybody
is acquaintedwith books of this style. The
binding
When

the

of Fitchet's
which

on

We

is

have

'

of

art

wrought
seen

same

style,and

of the

embroidered

'

Rhetoric

is covered

with the needle

cartouche-boxes

probably
books

with crimson

therefore

here

embroidered
of

the

same

satin,

coat-of-arms
preciselyin the
period as some

referred to.

r3

NEEDLEWORK

370

lion

are

The

in date

next

the

of

Henry

Holy Land,

and

the

the

It is bound

in

the

are

border

garter

ground

fleurs- de-lys,
leopards,and

in

corners

in

royal arms
the

coronet,

son
crim-

letters

in red

silk and

round

the whole

burnished

in

of
of

crown,

or

pearls; the roses

gold ; and there

with

scription
de-

written

French,

ments
orna-

there is

seen

in

in blue

gold thread.
gold thread, is inwrought

narrow

field,with

blue

illuminated.

embroidered

the motto

the

in

I have

velvet, with

motto
;

which

VI I.'s time, and

maroon

and

gold thread,

badge in scarlet silk ; the minor

all wrought in fine gold thread.

transverse

rich

in

rampant

BOOKS.

ON

at

is

gold

thread.
There

is

at Venice

an

in

1544.

It is in beautiful

The

back

side

is

and

gold, highly

wrought

Edward

dark

of the Old
the

crimson

raised.

the

in

series

work

silk
to

his.

Mary's Psalter, containingalso

Testament

in

belonged

book
not

each

on

coat- of-arms,

The
are

arms

preservation.

velvet, and

large royal

VI., but

Queen

and

is of

Sonnets, Drinted

of Petrarch's

edition

the

history
of small paintings,
throughout,had

richlyilluminated
exterior worthy of it. The
crimson
velvet,
once
an
of which
its
to attest
only small particlesremain
thread-bare; and the
pristinerichness, is literally
is
highly-raised
embroidery of a massy fleur-de-lys
also worn
to the
which
it was
canvas
on
wrought.
On
side scarcelya gold thread
one
remains, which
enables
however, to perceive that the embroidery
one,
done on
fine canvas,
was
or, perhaps,rather
coarse

linen, twofold

velvet, seamed

to

that

it, and

then
the

it

was

edges

laid
cut

on

away,

the
the

NEEDLEWORK

stitches

as

There
date

the

or

copiedout by herself
The
in

back
a

kind

thread

is covered

doubt

that

in the

book

canvas,

smaller

silver.

Illustrissimo

H.

of prayers,
the throne.

wrought

all

silk,and

over

silver

may or may
there is little

needle, but
own

above

all raised
This

the

groundwork

This

Elizabeth's

corners

silk and

with

of the

"

she ascended

needle

thereon, viz., H. K.

ornaments

middle

One

of tentstitch of rich crimson

the work

deed,
just,in-

of
depository,

same

before

intermixed.

be

not

the

Elizabeth.

Queen

kind

net.

on

three, in

are

of

muslin

sew

we

with

edge beingcovered
golden thread, sewed over

round

of cordon,

371

BOOKS.

ON

and

wrought

in the

intertwined

below, and

high,and

worked

is the dedication

the

roses

in blue

of the book

octavo, AnpotentissimoHenrico
Franciae, Hibernieeq.
glise,
regi,fidei defensori, et

"

secundum

ac

Christum

ecclesise An^licanse

et

Hiber-

nicae supremo
capiti.Elizabeta Majest.S. humillima
filia omne
felicitatem precatur, et benedictionem

suplexpetit."

suam

There

is in the Bodleian

library among

the MSS.

of St. Paul, printedin old black letter,

epistles
also queen
the binding of which
Elizabeth's
was
work; and her handwriting appears at the beginning,

the

viz.
August.

I walk

times

into

the

pleasant
where
I plucke up the
fields of the Holy Scriptures,
goodliesomeherbes of sentences
by pruning : eate
them by reading: chawe
them by musing : and laic
them up at length in the hie seate
of memorie
by
gatheringthem together: that so having tasted thy
I may the less perceivethe bitterness of
sweeteness
"

"

this miserable

life."

many

372

NEEDLEWORK

The

in needlework

done

covering is

(then princess)herself:
star,

the other

on

Latin

Divitias

omnia

There

heart, and

pertinaxvirtus."

is

of which

needlework
looks
But
"De
The

round

embroidered

an

each,

are

book

in

the

petitejB.'MiS.
containinga
"

side

one

on

the satin
in

heavy and
the

most

gold

or

brocade

borders,

Beatus

'*

in

qui

opera."
"

Museum,

Pastoral
back

which
silver,,

"

very
date 1587

is loaded
now,

with

however,

tasteless.
is

beautiful

AntiquitateBritannicse
material

as

"c*

British

French

and

"c,

the queen

by

wrought, such as
legensverba vertit
scripturae

sentences

"Vicit

BOOKS.

ON

of the back

Archbishop Parker's,
Ecclesise

"

is rich green

it is

A.D.

1572.

velvet, but

thicklycovered with embroidery : there has not

been
indeed, originally,
to lay a fourpennyspace
animals
and
with
piece. It is entirelycovered
flowers, in green, crimson, lilac,and yellow silk,and
about an
Bound
the edge is a border
gold thread.
inch broad, of gold thread.
Of the date of 1624 is a book
of magnificentpenmanship,
and
by the hand of a female, of emblems
in crimson
silk, having
inscriptions. It is bound
in the centre
Prince's
worked
in goldFeather
a
thread,
with the feathers bound
togetherwith large
pearls,and round it a wreath of leaves and flowers.
the edge there is a broader
Bound
wreath, with
corner
sprigsall in gold thread, thicklyinterspersed
with spangles and gold leaves.
All these
books, with the exception of the one
most
ingly
obligquoted from Ballard's Memoirs, were
sought out and brought to me by the gentle*

Ballard's

Memoirs.

NEEDLEWORK

at

men

more

books

the
but

their
of

amidst

three

to

out

contents,

or

four

my

their

seeming,

hundred

thousand
book

insignificant

velvet

bound

and

bioider'd

is

value,
not

easy,

volumes,

which

may

"

In

their

to

intrinsic
it

are

the

purpose,

be

"

there

according

or

outward

their

each

for

catalogued

are

373

BOOKS.

Probably

unfortunately

as,

instead

pick

Museum.

British

there

authors,

ON

o'er."

happen

to

374

XXIV.

CHAPTER

Thus

"

Of

is

Needle

prov'd an

pleasure, and
profit,

Which

ROYAL

OF

NEEDLEWORK

LADIES.

Instrument

of ornament,

grac'd in

have

mighty Queenes

to take."

hand

John

Needlework

is

an

art

so

in

attractive

Taylor.

itself;it

is

capable of such infinite variety,and is such a beguilerof lonely,as of social hours, and offers such
scope to the indulgence of fancy,and the displayof
taste ; it is withal
in its lighterbranches
panied
accomwith so little bodily exertion, not deranging
the most
recherche dress, nor
incommoding the most
and
elaborate
that we
cannot
exquisitecostume,
that it has been
wonder
practisedwith ardour even
from
by those the farthest removed
any necessity
"

"

for its exercise.

earliest
and

favourite

has

it been

employment

of

from

the

the

high

nobly born.

The
noble
in

ages

Therefore

"

father
dames

of song
of

Greece

paintingwith

achievements

hardly refers at all to the

and
Troy but as occupied

the needle."

of their

countrymen

Some,

the

on

curtains

heroic
and

376

NEEDLEWORK

OF

My youngest
To

guard

And

shut

And

"

lonelytowers,
silver bolt that keeps

the

silken

Her

And

cords

needlewark

Wove

by

royal life

dice

rare,
as

ye may

guess,

Fairlyfair."

better with
of

hear

twist,

mony

sae

of

it harmonises

green,

silver sheen

hand,

nae

that

Save

comely cheeks,

of twisted

set with

apron

Of

her

plettwith

Well

But

paintedbowers.

her boddice

then

remain

these

first she wet

And

LADIES.

shall here

son

fast your

Sac

ROYAL

ideas of

our

high

or

trophy for the warrior,

for the knightlybower, or
corative
deornament
some
some
offeringfor the church, emanating from the
taper fingersof the courtlyfair, than those kirtles
and
boddices
which, be they ever
so
magnificent,
ner's
millito appertain more
seem
naturallyto the
practice." Therefore, though we
give the
gentleFairly fair all possiblepraise for notability
to

some

"

in the
**

Of

that

as

of

standard
*

in

by

onset, in which

they

slew

even

of

to this

these

stan

lard

his

followers.

ensign that

ruthless
who

its loss

It

worked

on

but

drooped and hung heavily,it

if it

discomfiture

briskly in

by
the

was

it.

and

it)moved

Saxons

one

of the

is said

plunderers.
divined

the

in

to

If

the

wind, it was
was

by

woven

reverence

sign

was

the

the

Raven
a

it,

on

Devonshire,

broken

have

Sea-kings with

a
superstitious

So

Inguar

Ubba,

wrought

device, the Haven,*

the national
taken

hundred"

attached

Danish

work

such

regard on
princesses who

more

was

sacred

fortunate

eight
of

with

This

the

rare,"

sae

with

dice

mony

needlework

look
certainly

we

set with

Apron

spirit

sisters of

(which
of

was

victory,

supposed to prognosticate

NEEDLEWORK

and

which

opposed

long

was

to it

the

ROYAL

377

LADIES.

emblem

of terror

the battle-field.

on

the

was

OF

stupendous labour

Of
of

those

to

racter
gentlercha-

Queen

Matilda

Bayeux tapestry on which we have dwelt too

long elsewhere to lingerhere, and which was wrought
by her and under her superintendence.
Queen Adelicia, the second wife of Henry I.,was
a lady of distinguished
beauty and high talent : she
"

the

"

for her

remarkable

was

which

skill with

love of needlework,

she executed

of her needle

it.

One

recentlybeen
accomplished biographer; it was

her
which

"

she

has

embroidered

father, during the

silk and

in

memorable

contest

the

peculiarproduction
described
by
a

standard

gold

for her

in which

he

patrimony, and
which
celebrated
was
throughout Europe for the
exquisitetaste and skill displayedby the royal
of her patriotic
Adelicia in the design and execution
This standard
achievement.
was
unfortunatelycaptured
was

engaged

at

for the recovery

and

battle

near

of his

the castle of Duras,

in

1129,

Bishop of Liege and the Earl of Limbourg, the

old competitor of Godfrey for Lower
Lorraine, and
of their triumph
was
by them placed as a memorial
in the great church
of St. Lambert,
at Liege, and
for centuries carried in processionon Rogation
was
days through the streets of that city. The church
of St. Lambert
was
destroyed during the French
The plainwhere
Revolution.
this memorable
trophy
by

was

the

taken

is stillcalled the

"

Field

of the Standard.'

Perhaps, second only to Queen Matilda's work,

indeed
or
superior to it, as being entirelythe
the needlework
hand, were
production of her own
piecesof

Joan

D'

Albert, who

ascended

the

throne

'

378

NEEDLEWORK

of Navarre
varied

in

and

the

her

risk to her

some

which

in her

alarms

on

possessed great
could

of France

in 1572,

posterity
adopted

became,

and

not

as

it

she prohibited

religionto

be

formed
per-

in consequence

subjects. But

fortitude, and

she

baffled

treacheryshe
died suddenly at the court
was
stronglysuspected,by

Against
She

faith

suffered

Catholic

her

contend.

not

and

courage

attacks.

She

she

the Protestant

domains,
from

to

was

crown

the offices of the Catholic

all open

career

thereby,the zealous
Christmas-day,1562, she made

publicprofessionof

many

own

IV.

great Henry

religion,of

protectress, and
a

LADIES.

Though

of the

reformed

without

1555.

ROYAL

eventful, she is best known

the mother

as

OF

concealed

poison.
possesseda vigorous and cultivated
guages,
understanding; was
acquainted with several lanin prose
and
both
composed with facility
This

and

queen

Her

verse.

needlework,

solace of her leisure hours,

f

commemoration

to, the

of her

reformed

faith."

the

was

love
It is

and

amusement

designed by
for, and

her

steadiness

described

thus

as

by

loved
She
devices, and she
Boyle :
very much
hand
fine and largepiecesof
wrought with her own
which was
suit of hangings of a
a
tapestry,among
sons
Pricalled The
fifteen pieces,which
dozen
were
or
she gave us to understand
Opened
; by which
the pope's bonds, and shook
off
that she had broken
of every piece
his yoke of captivity.In the middle
"

is

story of the

liberty
"

of

as

the

Old

Testament

the deliverance
children

settingJoseph

at

which

of Susannah

of Israel

liberty,"c.

out

And

savours

at

the

departure
Egypt ; the
;

of

of

all the

cor-

NEEDLEWORK

are

and

over

third

them

chapter
Ubi

To

chains, shackles, racks, and gibbets;

broken

tiers

in

great letters, these words

second

of the

Spiritus

show

379

LADIES.

ROYAL

OF

Epistle to

thians,
Corin-

Libertas.

ibi

fullythe

yet more

the

of the

aversion

she had

ceived
con-

against the Catholic religion,and particularly

againstthe sacrifice of the mass, having a fine
and excellent pieceof tapestry,made
by her mother,
joled
Margaret, before she had suffered herself to be cawell
by the ministers, in which was perfectly
and a priestwho
wrought the sacrifice of the mass,
held out the holy host to the people, she took out
the square in which
this history,
and, instead of
was
with
her
the priest,
hand
substituted
own
fox,
a
who turning to the people, and
making a horrible
grimace with his paws and throat, delivered these
words, Dominus
We

vobiscum.

that

told

are

of France,

Queen

of

Anne

assembled

Brittany,the

three

good
of the

hundred

nobilityat her court, where, under

her personal superintendence,they were
instructed
their rank and
in such accomplishments as became
the girls,most
but
made
plished
accomsex,
especially,
needle-women.
their occupation
Embroidery was
specifiedhours of every day,
during some
and
they wrought much
tapestry,which was
sented
preby their royal protectress to different
of

children

the

churches.
Her

daughter Claude,

formed
the

her court

same

on

the

same

practice;Queen

in her

court,

largeportionof

her

and

of Francis
I.,
queen
model
and maintained

the

Anne
doomed

was

time

Boleyn

in

the

to

was

consume

occupationof

cated
edua

the

80

OF

NEEDLEWORK

needle.

It

ROYAL

LADIEF.

employment little suited to her

and
livelydisposition
coquettishhabits, and we do
not hear, during her short occupationof the throne,
was

an

that she resorted

Ai

"

as

fusi

'ago, ai

la

degno

non

amusement.

an

lavori d'Aracne, all

Inchinar

The

to it

superba."

man

practiceof devoting some

When

have

to

seems

the

continued

in the

of Scots

Queen

young

hours

dery
to embroi-

French

court.

there, the

was

French

in the
princessesassembled
every afternoon
queen's (Catherineof Medici's) privateapartment,
where
she usually spent two
in
three hours
or
embroidery with her female attendants."
It is also said, that Katharine
of Arragon was
in
the habit of employing the ladies of her court
in
herself
she was
needlework, in which
extremely
assiduous, working with them and encouraging them
two
records, that when
by her example. Burnet
to speak with her, she came
legatesrequested once
"e

to them

out

told

them

with
she

An

women.

this

skein

had

she

of silk about

within

been

anecdote,

of silk,somewhat
In

more

differed

at

her
work

neck, and
with

her

regards the skein

housewifelythan queenly.
far

as

much

as

from

her

successor,

having had her nativity

cast when
child, and being told, from the disposia
tion
of the stars and planetsin her house, that she
born
of imperial mato sit in the highest seat
was
jesty;
child as
she was,
she was
so
impressed by
the prediction,,
that when
her mother
requiredher
she would
to work
My hands are ordained
say,
Queen

Catherine

Parr,

for

"

to

touch

crowns

spindles."

and

sceptres,

not

needles

and

NEEDLEWORK

381

LADIES.

orphaned daughter of this lady,by

admiral, was
consignedto the care of the

When
the

ROYAL

OF

the

lord

Duchess

of Suffolk, the
to be

nursery" was
curious, and

with

sent

her.

subjoinit.
pots,three goblets,one

Two

of

furniture

"

her

former

list is rather

The

we

salt

a
parcelgilt,
with a band
of silver and parcelgilt,
and
maser
eleven spoons ; a quiltfor the cradle, three pillows,
testor of scarlet
three feather-beds, three quilts,
a
embroidered
of silk say belongwith a counterpoint
ing
"

and

to the same,

of crimson

curtains

taffeta;two

counterpointsof imagery for the nurse's bed, six

pair of sheets, six fair piecesof hangingswithin the
inner chamber
; four carpets for windows, ten pieces
within the outer
of hangings of the twelve months
chamber, two quishionsof cloth of gold, one chair
of cloth of gold,two wrought stools,a bedstead
gilt,
and
with a testor
with curtains belonging
counterpoint,
same."

to the

Return

to

we

Katharine

have

labours

been

The

English verse.
in the

"

I read

Arragon

celebrated

both

her needlework
in Latin

followingsonnet
which

Tower,

having left not

away,

of

"

refers to cimens
speindeed
are
swept

now

wreck

behind."

that in the seventh

King Henrie's reigne,

Katharine, daughter to the Castile king,
into England with a pompous
Came
traine
Of Spanish ladies which
shee thence
did bring.
She to the eighthKing Henry married
was,
And
afterwards
where
divorc'd,
virtuously
(Although a Queene), yet she her days did pass
In working with the needle curiously,
Fair

As

in the Tower,
Her

excellent

"Whereby
By her

and

placesmore

memorials

the needlts

prayse

faire lad:es, and

may
is

and

beside,
be

seen

dignifide

herselfe,a Queene.

382

NEEDLEWORK

same

also celebrated

pen

in this feminine

when

LADIES.

paines,here her reward is just,

proclaimher prayse, though she be

works

Her

Mary

ROYAL

far her

Thus

The

OF

embroidery; and
consigned her to a vate
pri-

divorce

mother's

of

life,she beguiledthe intervals

studies

in which

her time
is not

daughter'sskill

occupation.

skilled in all sorts

was

her

her

dust."

she

severer

pied
peaceablyand laudablyoccu-

in various

unlikelythe

of those

branches

Psalter

of needlework.

have

we

alluded

It

to elsewhere

embroidered

by herself ; and a reference

to the fashionable
occupationsof the day will bring
minds
various
ery
to our
articles,the embroidtrifling
of which beguiled her time, though they have
long since passed away.
was

11

And
Her

though

she

will

memory

Which

her

by

In that most
Who

ever

May
Her
To
Which
To

works

greatness

held

the needle
a

was

banish

likewise

are

workes
it

in

no

The

needle's worke

extract

Lady

the

in the

Tower,

Paradise

to resort,

price.

of hers, of wondrous

disreputation

in her

from

royal hand;
to

out

nation

our

her

pleas'dher,

land

Grey,

thought it fit,
and she grac'dit."

followingnotice

Jane

power,

Court,

called

roome

this Queene, in wisdom

thus

mighty

Hampton

good example
idleness

of

be decaid,

pompous

some

sceptreswaid,

Queene

never

And

excellent

the

pleaseththither

see

take

were

Castle, and

In Windsor

We

here

daughter Mary

Her

from

of the

the

'

gentleand
Court Magazine.'

days'royalty! Alas, how deeply fraught

with tragicinterest is the historic page
recording
able
the events
of that brief period! and how immeasurthe results proceedingtherefrom
Love, beauty,
religious
constancy, genius,and learning,vere seen
"

Ten

OF

NEEDLEWORK

384
"

This

thy

was

This
At

thy

the soft

brook

Instead

; and

gleaming

of

sun

yet

here
pane,

the

in

was

dappled
its wane)

the brooklet

the
still,

runs

deer

The

the

beside

Browsing
The

solitude

eye oft watched

(While

LADIES.

then, gentle Jane,

green

evening from
Thine

"

home

ROYAL

browseth

skill in

"

clear ;

sets

sun

deer

now,

she

drawing

?"

art thou

where

cultivated

the

painting with the needle, and at Zurich is

still to be seen,
together with the originalMS. of
her Latin letters to the reformer
Bullinger,a toilet
hands, which
beautifullyornamented
by her own
had
been
spondent."
presented by her to her learned correart

of

In

Queen
of

the

of Scots

habituated

was

needlework,

for the art which

Catherine

of

court

and

thus

de
to the

Medicis

Mary
dailypractice

her natural

fostered

taste

acquiredin the convent

supposed to have been St. Germaine-en-Laye, where
dence
she was
placed during the earlypart of her resiin
utmost

France.

she

had

She

regret, revisited

"

left this

convent

she

it whenever

with
was

the
mitted,
per-

ering
gladlyemployed her needle in embroidfor its church.
an
altarpiece
forsook
This
never
predilectionfor needlework
her, but proved a beguilement and a solace during
the weary
years of her subsequent imprisonment,
after she was
especially
separated from the female
friends
who
at first accompanied her.
During a
and

part of her confinement, while she

to this

was

still on

paratively
com-

with Elizabeth, she transmitted

terms
friendly
several elegantpiecesof her own
needlework
princess. She wrought a canopy, which was

NEEDLEWORK

OF

ROYAL

385

LADIES.

sisting
presence-chamberat Whitehall, conof France
and
of an empalement of the arms
under
an
Scotland, embroidered
imperialcrown.
at what
It does not
period of her life she
appear
ment
worked
it. During the earlypart of her confine-

placed in

she

the

how, in unfavourable

asked

was

weather,

She
said that all that
passed the time within.
day she wrought with her needle, and that the
the work
less
seem
diversityof the colours made
she continued
tedious ; and
so
long at it,till very
pain made her to give over.
Upon this occasion she entered into a pretty
carving,painting,
disputablecomparison between
and working with the needle ; affirming
painting,in
her own
opinion,for the most commendable
quality.
it was
in EngNo
doubt
during her confinement
land
the bed
still preserved at
that she worked
she

"

Chatsworth."

followingnotices from her

memorials
are
interesting
trifling,
The

own

letters,though

of this

melancholy

part of her life :

"

"July
pigeons,
mean

to

9,

1574.

red

send
pray
you
partridges,and Barbary

try

in
keep them
prisoner,and I

to

"

them

rear

cages
do so

it is
with

in
an

this

me

some

fowls.

country,

or

for

amusement

all the little birds

can

obtain.

"July 18, 1574. Always bear in mind that my

will in all thingsbe strictly
followed ; and send me,
if it be possible,
with my accounts.
one
some
He
must
bring me
patterns of dresses and samples of
cloths, gold and silver, stuffs and silks, the most
Order
at court.
for me
now
worn
costlyand new
"

386

NEEDLEWORK

OF

ROYAL

LADIES.

Poissy a couple of coifs, with gold and silver

such
made
before.
for me
as
they have
crowns,
Remind
Breton
of his promise to send
from
me
kind
of
head-dress,
veils, and
Italy the newest
I will
ribands, wrought with gold and
silver, and
at

him.

repay
"

the

Should
send

doubtless

in

must

send

may

reading
all the

solelyin

them

to

of

he

me

likewise

you

except

Deliver

"

cushions

two

herewith.

and

22.

September

be

send

which

gone

to

Lyons,

he

beautiful

little animals

little

couple for

working,
very

dinal
car-

work

procure

hither

the

my

couple of
and

uncle

my

can

me

will

dogs ;
for,

pleasure

take

obtain.

comfortably put

You
up

in

baskets.
I send
"February 12, 1576.
some
poodle-dogs(barbets),but
the beauty of the dogs, as I am
"

to

hunt

or

the
can

not

king of France
for
only answer
allowed

either

to ride."*

It is said that

one

of the

articles which

in its preparation

choly
melanbeguiled her, perchance, of some
a
waistcoat, which, having
thoughts, was
richlyand beautifullyembroidered, she sent to her
that
this selfish prince was
heartless
and
son
;
his mother
enough to rejectthe offering, because
dressed
in his eyes) ad(stillsurely Queen of Scotland
it to him
as
prince.
the subjoined
The
poet so often quoted wrote
in Queen Elizabeth's
sonnet
praise,whose skill with
She was
remarkable.
her needle
was
especiallyan
adept in the embroidering with gold and silver,

Von

Raumer's

Contributions.

NEEDLEWORK

ROYAL

OF

387

LADIES.

practisedit much in the earlypart of her life,

now
though perhaps few specimens of her notability
and

exist

"

"

this great queene, whose

When

By
For

she

When

Woodstock

And

after all

She

shee

Thus
A

went,

or

her time

she spent,
her skill.

livingyet doe know

many

in

companion still,

her

in that exercise

As

captive,or else crown'd,

royalland renown'd."

stilla

was

needlewoman

the

Mary II.,the wife of

Bishop Fowler writes thus
Of

Prince
What

"
"

in ladies !

idleness, even

to

was

spleene:

Maries angry

came

sorrow

the needle

made

And

prisonfast,
England'speerlesse
queene :

was

howsoever

last

ever

the Tower

e, and

And

shall rot,

troubles past,

many

jayleto jayleby

From

Yet

had

maid

for

gloriousfame

shall her

Yet

all therein

and

the world

when

be overcaste

of time

terme

any

shall not

memory

her

of

Orange,

an

enemy
who had

Those

she
the

It is
living instances.
how great a part of the day they were
well known
employed at their needles and several ingenuities
;
the queen
herself, when
more
important business
would
And,
give her leave, working with them.
that their minds
might be well employed at the
honour

serve

time, it

same

to

to

are

her

was

them, while

they were at
profitable
history."

some

And

thus:

Burnet

by reading
of

amusement

work;

were

not

given

with

her

own

constant

to

too

and

better

hands,

her

and

as
diligence,

much,
in

she

all those

that

been

were

out

hours
she

sometimes

had

to read

or
divinity

eyes
found

employment

if she

one

either

work,

"When

"

order

to

custom

s2

the
that

wrought
with

to

dangered
en-

earn

so

her

388

NEEDLEWORK

by it. It
sight,to see
day."

OF

bread

was

Her

The

looked

thing,and
working so

new

queen

and

livelyas was
gaiety,did

her

unfortunate

and
disposition,

find either

not

Marie

with

inconsistent

fond

the duties

the

testified

Antoinette,
she

as

of

was

gaietiesof

or

of

labours

like,
hours

many

industryin embroidery are

yet remaining at Hampton Court.

beautiful

court

LADIES.

and

taste

chairs

by

ROYAL

the

needle.

extremely fond of needlework, and during

her happiest and gayest years was
dailyto be found
at her embroidery-frame. Her
approach to this was
a
signal that other ladies might equally amuse
with their various
themselves
broidery,
occupations of emof knitting,
of untwisting the profitable
or
able,
occupationof that day ; and which was so fashionsuch
a
"rage," that the ladies of the court
hardly stirred anywhere without two little workfilled with
one
gold fringes,laces,
bags each
tassels, or any golden trumpery they could pick up,
the other to contain
the gold they unravelled, which
they sold to Jews.
It is said to be a fact that duchesses
cesses
nay, prinShe

was

"

"

"

"

Jew

in

gold.

have

been

order

to

Dolls

known

obtain

and

to

the

all sorts

go

about

from

Jew

highest pricefor
of

toys

made

were

to

their
and

with

covered

fair

gold brocades ; and the gentlemen

failed rendering themselves
agreeable to their
with
these
acquaintance by presenting them

toys

never

Every
French
:

one

that

knows

noblemen
this absurd

at

that

custom

the

court

costume

period was
rendered

it

most

of the
sive
expen-

doubly, trebly

NEEDLEWORK

so

and

carried

was

the

moment

divested

an

round

crowded

it of all its

that

excess,

quently
frein

gentleman appeared

ladies

the

coat

new

such

to

389

LADIES.

ROYAL

OF

and

him

soon

gold ornaments.

Duke
de
The
following is an instance :
Coigny one night appeared in a new and most expensive
remarked
coat : suddenly a lady in the company
that its gold bindings would
be excellent
for untwisting.
The

"

"

In
scissors in the

room

the coat

moments

he

instant

an

was

loons, its tassels, its

work

at

were

surrounded

was

stripped of
fringes; and

"

all the

in short, in

few

its laces, its gathe poor

duke,

notwithstandinghis vexation, was forced by politeness

to laugh and
praise the dexterityof the fair
hands

that

But

robbed

him."

work,
passion for needlewhich
the
indulged in herself and
queen
to her
encouraged in others, become
during her
fearful captivity. This
born
unhappy princess was
the day of the Lisbon
on
earthquake, which seemed
to

what

stamp

solace

fatal mark

have

since been
"

'Tis certain
Of

One

matters

that

the

on

occurred

circumstances

many

did

considered

during
as

that the soul hath

which

beyond

of her

era

birth

her

and

life which

portentous.
oft foretaste

its ken

are

placed.

circumstance, simple in itself and

plained,
easilyexis recorded
by Madame
Campan as having
with shuddering anticipationsof
impressed Marie

evil
"

was

One

evening, about
sittingin the middle
remarkable

occurrences

the latter
of her
of

end

of

May, she
veral
relatingseroom,
the day. Four
wax

390

candles

placed upon her toilet : the first went

itself;I relightedit: shortlyafterwards the
were

of

out

second,
which

and

fatal

At

at

of the Bhine

upon

tion
emo-

an

to

power

"

on

history.

middle

erected, intended

been

the

her

her

suite, on

the

by

friends

that

left of the

which

in

hung,

and

struck

was

throne

the

distracted

dreadful

death

starting back,

his

in

with

the
the

which

seen

were

is to say, a representation
in
commemorated

fatal union

most

Goethe,

tapestry with

Medea

On

side, was

the

isle in

and

entrance

and

struggling with

choly
melan-

completing

was

it," says

into

my

of the

he

what
some-

court.

subject depicted in
principalpavilionwas
Jason, Creusa,

with
read

have

out."

went

seems,

an

Antoinette

admitted

was

other

has

taper

young

Strasburg. In
a
pavilionhad

French

to the

Memoirs

When

Marie

receive

fourth

period Goethe
to
poet's inspiration,

his studies

The

!'

omen

fate for her.

way

'

me,

earlier

an

of

to

with

hand
my
Misfortune

squeezing
to

also

out

went

superstitious
taper go out
; if the fourth
first,nothing can
prevent my looking upon

us

as

third,

the

queen,
of terror, said

like the
it

then

the

make

LADIES.

ROYAL

OF

NEEDLEWORK

bride,

attendants,
;

struck

Jason,
with

rounded
surwas

the

on

horror

at

children ; and the Fury

sight of his murdered
was
soaring into the air in her chariot drawn
by
dence
dragons. Superstitionapart, this strange coinciwas
reallystriking. The husband, the bride,
the

and

the

fatal

but be

seemed

were

victims

in

both

cases

the

accomplished in every point."

followingnotices of her imprisonment would
spoiledby any alteration of language. We

omen

The

children,

392

NEEDLEWORK

should

be

should

strictest search

well

their persons

on

took

king

ROYAL

of his

out

be

in

as

and

of the

and

he

which

The

scissors.

officers

apartments,

and

and

the

gave

searched

carried

that
as

The

small

"

same,

apartments.

knife

knives

for the

made

their

pocket

pocket-book,from
corner

LADIES.

deprived of all scissors,razors,

usuallytaken from criminals

instruments
the

OF

rocco
mo-

knife
penevery

off the

razors,

the powder-scraper, instruments

curling-irons,
articles of gold and
for the teeth, and many
silver.
They took away from the princessestheir knittingneedles, and all the little articles they used for their
and
embroidery. The
unhappy queen
princesses
the

the

were

more

of

from

them,

taken
forced

At

hours.
and

as

this time

the

she

had

she

What

pretty house

replied,

'

share

your

can

served

to

king'scoat

works
handi-

beguile prison
became
ragged,
ing
mend-

misfortunes

king
with

observed

her

teeth"

king, looking tenderly

of nothing at your
want

Montreuil.'

I feel

quence
conse-

the
in

were

at

feminine

scissors,the

no

!' said

reverse

in

they were

bite off the thread

her; 'you

upon

as

little instruments

Elizabeth, his sister,was

had
to

the

loss of

all the

up

had

the Princess

it, as
that

give

to

till then

which

the

sensible

'

regret of
?

Ah,

brother

any

kind

!' she

while

'"

Empress Josephine is said to have played

with
and
exquisitefeeling: her dancing is
sung
said to have been perfect.She exercised her pencil,
and
though such be not now
antiquated for an
and
embroidery-frame,with
elegante her needle
The

"

"

beautiful
Towards

address.
the

close

of her

eventful

career,

when,

NEEDLEWORK

OF

after her

divorce from

domestic

court

ROYAL

Bonaparte, she kept

Navarre

at

her ladies worked

393

LADIES.

Malmaison,

or

of

sort

she

and

dailyat tapestryor embroidery

"

pied
readingaloud whilst the others were thus occu; and the hangings of the saloon at Malmaison
her own
work.
were
entirely
They must have been
dery
elegant; the material was white silk, the embroi-

one

in which

roses,

at intervals

her

entwined

were

initials.

own

An

is related

circumstance
interesting

between

excitement

it,the

and

having

sceur,

conversing, added,
mother

a
ministeringspirits,
Josephine,in a time of peculiar

trouble.

in any
humanity. We

Since

"

would

majesty
shall have
From

some

that

no

demand
are

At

discovered

of the afflicted,I

indiscreet

in

moment

whom

she

was

addressing the
longer fear my being
for suffering
make
may

great

am

want
"

will make
the

of

conclusion

the

with

condescend"
; we

versation
con-

of those

one

de la charite,and

sobuv

of

of lint ; if your
I promise you

it ourselves.''

employed

evenings were

making lint, and the empress

in activity
at this work.
yieldedto none
Few
of my readers will have
accompanied me to
this point without
with which
the name
anticipating
these slight
notices of royalneedlewomen
must
clude
conwhich
all know, and which, knowing,
a
name
noble
all reverence
that of a dignified
a
as
princess,
and
admirable
matron"
Adelaide,
our
Dowager
at

Malmaison

in

"

It

Queen.
which,
hers

to
as

to

was

our

render

hers

to reform

shame, had

of

court

licentious ; it was
ous
virtucircle as pure and

become

its charmed

the domestic

the morals

hearth

of the

scrupulous

most

s3

394

British

matron

chilling

etiquette

of

social

virtues,

it

regal

and

to

the

state

the

round

stately

domestic

of

ple
sim-

though

beguiling

and

virtues

winning

wreath

the

with

combine

to

weave

charities,

occupations,

LADIES.

hers

was

of

lifey

private

ROYAL

OF

NEEDLEWORK

of

majesty

land's
Eng-

throne.
The

days

in

"

and,

poring

in

her,
in:

of

late

of

her

few

the

price,
they

Englishwoman

not

had

for
been
had

leisure

ever

their

the

which
of

by
to

have
the

worth,
a

respect

hand
and

ments
mo-

have

dom,
kingnot

Queen

purchased

gladly

intrinsic

wrought
learnt

there

and

contributions

contributions

those

example,

purposes,

"

Adelaide,

throughout

Bazaars

beneficent

by

Queen

of

mazes

their

occupied

rine,
Katha-

or

Majesty's

needlework

years,

really

that

British

the

interminable

known

habitually

enriched

Dowager
high

well

ornamental

for
been

it is

of

Matilda

like

surable
plea-

either

be

Queen

the

over

would

the

days,

consequence

around

been,

but

;"

tapestry

her

spend

to

it

for

profitable

or

empire

when

past

are

but
which
love.

at

cause
be-

every

395

XXV.

CHAPTER

MODERN

ON

NEEDLEWORK.

Our

"

Country everywhereis

Ladies, and

With

In this

with

fild

Gentlewomen, skild

Art."

rare

Taylor.

"

pliesits busy task,

the well -depictedflower

For here the needle

The

pattern

Unfolds

its bosom

the nimble

Follow

wreath

the snowy

buds, and

curlingtendrils

And

grows,

patientlyinto

Wrought

lawn,

leaves, and

sprigs,
gracefullydispos'd,

fingersof

the fair ;

fade."

that cannot

Cowper.

"The

other

great varietyof needleworks

countries,as well

with constant

and

own,

amusing employment

; and

equal a
by fixingitsattention
the purpose

answer

of

of

knowing

or
on

of

as

our

an

the progress

that

amusement;

call forth
we

are, at

of any

our

ingenious women

though
they

elegantor
and,

exertions,
we

labours

our

unbend

triumph of modern
probably within our own
"

may

the mind,

when

the

higher duties

feel the satisfaction

may

least,innocentlyemployed."

The

countrywoman,

us

imitative art,they

Griffiths.

Mrs.

our

of

invented,will furnish

Aylesbury's,yet, if

of domestic

station do not

our

the

have

Mineron's

not

which

Miss

art

in

needlework

shores, achieved
Linwood.

Miss

by

is
our

Lin-

396

MODERN

ON

wood's

NEEDLEWORK.

Exhibition"

used

to

be

of the

one

lions

of

be
To
to
so
now.
fully deserves
it must
women
always be an interestingsight; and
consider
but
it as
the
"nobler
a
gender" cannot
and not
of their notice
curious one,
unworthy even
achievement
of art.
as
an
Many of these pictures
beautiful ; and
it is not
without
most
are
great
that you can
assure
difficulty
yourselfthat they are
Full demonstration, however,
bond fide needlework.
of close approach to some
is given you by the facility
of the pieces.
Perhaps the most beautiful of the whole collection
collection consisting
of nearly a hundred
a
pieces
is the pictureof Miss Linwood
of all sizes
herself,
copied from a painting by Russell, taken in about

and

London,

"

"

her

nineteenth
creature

needle

and

She

year.
and

worsted,

this copy

to

as

have

must

been

being

ful
beauti-

done

with

such a
nobody would suppose
thing. It is a perfectpainting. In the catalogue
which
accompanies these works she refers to her
own
portraitwith the somewhat
touchingexpression,
(from Shakspere,)
*

lady is

This
life has

been

has

given so
wrought two
twentieth

her

I lived

"

thus long

her

in

eighty-fifth
year.
the pursuit of which

Her

beautiful testimonies.
She
many
three piecesbefore she reached
or

had

now

devoted

year
of Cain," which

in her

Have

"

and

to

her last

occupied her

seventy -fifth year

piece,

"

ten

since

eyesighthas put an end

The
piecesare worked, not

to
on

The

years,

when,

she

her

Judgment
was

finished

the failure of

her labours.
canvas,

nor,

we

are

told,

linen,

on

under

dyed

said the
labour

but

on

her.

for

purposely

her

397

NEEDLEWORK.

MODERN

ON

peculiar fabric

some

worsteds

Her

have

all been
and

superintendence;

own

only relief she has

in having an
was

had

ever

assistant

in the
to

made

it is
manual

thread

her

needles.
of the

Some

but

her

pieces
perhaps

greatest triumph

Dolci's

Salvator

"

offered, and
The

from

Gainsborough

Miss

Linwood

to

be

Mundi/'

in

for

refused, three

has

styleof

after

modern

the Berlin
of the

are

mirable
ad-

will consider

her

copy

of

Carlo

which

she

has

been

thousand

guineas.

embroidery,now
patterns, dates

present century.

so

from
About

able,
fashionthe

mencement
com-

the year

in Berlin, named
print-seller
Philipson,
publishedthe first coloured design,on checked paper

1804-5,

for

needlework.

In

1810,

Madame

Wittich,

who,

very accomplished embroideress, perceived

of trade was
of which this branch
great extension

being
the

her husband,
book
and
a
capable, induced
printin it with
seller of Berlin, to engage
spirit. From
that period the trade has gone on rapidlyincreasing,
though within the last six years the progressionhas
been
more
*upid than it had previously
infinitely
of new
been, owing to the number
publishers who
have engaged in the trade.
By leading houses, up
to

the commencement

been

no

less

of the

than

f"M*"e"n

1840, there have

year
thousand
copper-plate

designspublished.
/.mption,and, consequently,
by a fair inference, in the quantity of needlework
done, Germany stands fir^t; then Russia, England,
France, America, Sweden, Denmark,
Holland, "c,
In the

scale

of

co_.

398

ON

the three

first

MODERN

names

on

largestconsumers.
the

these

NEEDLEWORK.

the

list

being by

is difficult to state

It

with

precision
colour

of persons

number

far the

employed to
mates
estiplates, but a principalmanufacturer
them
as
upwards of twelve hundred, chiefly

women.

At
then

first these
in

patterns were

lastlyin

and

beads,

chieflycopied in silk,
dyed wools ; the latter

since the Germans

have themselves
especially,
succeeded
in producing those
beautiful
Zephyr"
in this country as the
Berlin wools."
yarns known
These
yarns, however, are only dyed in Berlin, being
more

"

"

manufactured
since the

Germans

from

country

this

probably
the

wool

will

have

drew

is

not

the

remain, whatever

be

now

in

well

the fourteen

years

many

all their fine woollen

they are

produced

dyeing be as
practised.
Of

so

It

Gotha.

at

and

understood

thousand

exporters,and

Berlin

qualityof

the

the

until

England,

yarns

as

art

of

scientifically

patterns which

been

one-half are moderately

publishedscarcely
good ; and all the best which they have produced
are
latterly
copied from English and French
prints.
Contemplating the improvement that will probably
ere
long take place in these patterns, needlework
be said to be yet in its infancy.
may
The
improvement, however, must not be confined
to the Berlin
designers: the taste of the consumer,
also advance
before
the public taste must
work
needleshall assume
that approximation to art which
with modern
is so
desirable, and not perhaps now,
difficult of attainment.
facilities,

anxietyseems

to have

been

to

Hitherto

produce

the chief
a

glare

of

400

ON

vourable

MODERN

NEEDLEWORK.

needlework.

to

At

enacted

that all the sofas and

should

match,

constant

"

indeed

cushion,

have

and

at

or

fashionable

an

odd

chair, is

its

placeamong
which

of furniture

and

years,
;

soon

plished,
accom-

the

are

but

many
found

now

saloon.

Francfort-on-the-Maine

is

much

The

needlework.

with
just now
imported from

for

"

completelywearisome

takes

once

odd-shaped articles
a

servants

been

screen,

and

in

apartment

an

the

daughters, cousins,
must

chairs of

fashion

completely furnishingit with

in France
have been) was
(as so many
occupationof a whole family mother,

needlework
the

when

time

itself

busying

commenced

works

city are made

up partly from
fanciful combinaBerlin patterns, and partly from
tions
although generallyspeaking well worked,
; but
they are too complicatedto be easy of execution, and
this country are
very few indeed of those brought to
ev er finishedby the purchaser.
The historyof the progress of the modern
tapestryneedlework

this

1831, the Berlin

persons,
for
some

and

time

some

patterns

used

by

Until

known

were

persons

imported by

the year
very

few

They

had

to

still.

Ackermann

and

indeed.
very small numbers
1831, they, for the first time, fell under

in

Wilks, Regent

indebted

am

Berlin

procure,

and

patterns and

for

the

street,
valuable

(to whose

also

all the
made

working

the

on

diately
imme-

good designs he could

of
large purchases both

materials

thus laid the foundation

he

In

ness
kind-

information

patterns given above,) and

purchased

and

fewer

been

others, but

the year
notice of Mr.

the

country is brief.

in this

direct

of the trade

from

in

Berlin,

England.

ON

401

NEEDLEWORK.

MODERN

imported from Paris a large selection of

also an
their best examples in tapestry, and
ment
assortof silks of those
exquisitetints which, as yet,
France
only can produce ; and by inducing French
of design,
for this peculiarbranch
artists,educated
in estahim to England, he succeeded
blishing
to accompany
in England this elegant art.
This fashionable
the most
tapestry-work,certainly
useful kind of ornamental
needlework,
seems
quite
to have
broideries
usurped the place of the various other emwhich
have from time
to time
engrossed
He

also

the

leisure

mechanical,
there

of

moments

and

in

so

the
a

is

It

fair.

be

may

called

it

certainlyis ; but
for fancy,taste, and
scope
other of the large
in any
degree

more
infinitely
even
genius here, than
and embroideries.
familyof satin sketches
in worsted
work
Yes, there is certainlyroom
genius to exert itself the genius of a painter
"

"

"

for
in

"

the

and
selection, arrangement,
colours, of light and shade, "c. ; we

combination

of

do

in

not

mean

glaring arabesques,but in the landscape and the

portrait. There is an instance given by Pennant,*
where

the
a

the

skill and

grace

of the

taste

to her

needle-woman

picture which

parted
im-

wanting

was

in

original.
"In

one

is

ingenious
needlework

of

the

apartments

performance that
wife
of

of
a

capitalperformance of
is most

admirable

Some

does

modern

Madonna

grace

Account

of the

palace (Lambeth)

great honour

dignitary
"

and

Child, after

the

to the

copy
a

in

most

There
Spanish Murillo.
in the original,
which
was

of London.

"

1793.

402

ON

sold

last

made

me

wasted

MODERN

winter

NEEDLEWORK,

the

at

that

lament
much

time

price
this

of

800

It

guineas.

excellent

had

master

beggars and ragged boys.

Beautiful
it is,the copy came
as
improved out of the
hand
of our
skilful countrywoman:
a
judicious
change of colour of part of the drapery has had a
excellence
most
to the
happy effect,and given new
admired
original."
work,
needleWhilst
recording the triumphs of modern
so

must

we

education

tradesmen,

omit

not

the

of

on

daughters

which

in

mention

to

the

art

of

of lilac

satin,which

is

exhibited

now

under

was

Charlotte

Hampton

at

decayed
silk- embroidery was

school

there

was

for the

clergy and

of

cultivated.
This
particularly
especialpatronage of Queen

school

and

embroidered

Court,

the
bed

for her,
is

and

really

magnificent.
Could
modern

take

now

we

needlework,

might refer,
wrought slippersof
we

"

the

of

mocassins

unattractive,

by
a

the

range

wide
the

the East
West

range
jewelled and

from

to

which

goldengrass-embroidered

the

gorgeous
courtlyPersian, the

the luxurious

or

of

view

the

to the

of the

raiment
glittering

Turk,

how
from

extended

more

Indian,

the

to

and

voluptuous
simple,

wrought garment made

yet exquisitely
from

Californian
wide

the

as

the

entrails

Antipodes

whale

of the

asunder

in

every

point except one ! that is the equal though very

differentlydisplayed skill,ingenuity,and industry
"

of the

needlewoman

hearth, from
Pole.

This

the
we

in

must

now
we

corner

every

burning equator

Finally, feelingas
"

almost

pass.
do that

to

the

though

of the

freezing

ornamental

ON

needlework
ladies

MODERN

be

may

403

NEEDLEWORK.

charming occupation for

those

whose

from
the
happy lot relieves them
and
necessityof
darning hose
mending nightcaps/*
yet that a proficiencyin plain-sewing is the
and
respectability
very life and being of the comfort
"

ff

of the
without

other

There,

remark

in

now

schools
the

now,

Central, National,

in the

instruction

the

for

ing
the systems of teach-

on

use

is reduced

art

this book

close

cannot

we

"

earnest

one

needlework
and

wife,

man's

poor

the

of

poor.

regular rule,

to

taught by regular system ; and there are books of

instruction in cutting,in shaping, in measuring,
for the (late) Model
School
in Dublin, and
one
another, somewhat
similar, for that in the Sanctuary,
would
valuable
be
most
Westminster, which
quisition
aca
"

to

and

work-table

industrious

classes of

of those
have

to

young,

how
a

to

this

consequent

on

earnest

of mental

their

for

cap

have

and

homes

from

petticoatfor themselves,

children,

heartfelt

amongst

"

who

any

have

it,will join us

tuition

hearths

domestic

picture,and

and

accustomed,

been

infancy in factories,
borne
large families, and perhaps
the grave
without
ever
having

make

to

realityof
the

the

see

descended

even

needle-loving

respectable middle

most

who

who, brought up

married

learned

of the

readers

our

have,

we

lady

of many

society.

of

Any
as

the

that

the lower

the

the

seen

cordiallyin

hope,

know

or

misery
expressing

the
classes

extension
may

not

supersede,in the smallest iota, that instruction and

in sewing which next, the very next, to the
practice
knowledge of their catechism, is of vital importance

404

ON

the future

to

of life

NEEDLEWORK.

well-doingof girlsin

now

thus

me

is finished

task

my

readers, who

had

have

far,I

would

thanks, of farewell, and,

This

heard

of

other;

no

triflingdifficulties
I have

spared

I have

toiled

the

chance

purpose

do

finding even

view

to

deemed

my

have

It

adaptable

met

with

with

The

the

been

the

attached

proportionof

their

for

to

my

trifling

obtain

historical

too
to

To
"

merely

in

the

to

book,

at

winged
within
for

ages

of

been

passing
ertions
myself,my exexceeding rich

were

that

instructed

all

in

than

factories,where,

time, girlsare

any

superabundance

more

pen.

generally known
the

with

of information

amount

subjecthas

triflingto

be

this

read

having

brought their own

;" for if perchance they
of fatigue,they yet have
cannot

this.

of volumes

line

have

reward

no

research.

no

exertions, but

own

ladies, who,

exists.

from

notice

for

material

therein, that reallyno

too

I have

circumstances

these

mention

feel dissatisfied

material

needlework

not.

those

contained

have

exaggerate

convince

of

words

experienced

hundreds

many

my

pany
accom-

other

exertions,

no

to

few

no

have

obtaining

sometimes

not

you,

be, of apology.

with

met

labour,

no

oftener

in

offer

historyof

first

and

through

of

success,

may

stations

to

courtesy

if need

I have

and

the

fain

is, I believe, the

published.

ever

the lower

And
kind

MODERN

late
fixed

times
the

ductive
pro-

flight

years

schools

and

certain

sewing and reading^

MODERN

ON

of many
induced

lonely hours,
weariness

405

NEEDLEWORK.

which

or

might otherwise
despondency in

even

have
their

lagging transit.
I

To
as

you, my countrywomen,
what
it might be, but
as

the best

the

book,

not

which, under

umphant
produce. The trigeneral is oftentimes deeply indebted for
but industrious
to the humble
pioneer; and
who
hereafter
this subject with
pursue
may

all circumstances,

success

those

loftier aims, with

facilities of

path

which

book

in

some,

could

offer

abundant

more

research, may
I have

now

disdain

not

indicated.

the

hope that it will

gratification
perhaps of

others, and

offence

"

as

leisure and

offer to

trust

tread

the

you

my

amusement

cause
a

to

greater

higher
and

order

believe

none.

THE

London

Printed

by

William

END.

Clowes

and

Sons, Stamford

to

Street.

to
"

to

THE

ILLUMINATED

BOOK

LADIES'

OF

Wistful

Ornamental

ir

NEEDLEWORK.

BY

OWEN

HENRY

MRS.
(OF

DPPER

BAKER

STREET.)

LONDON:

HENRY

G.

BOHN,

YORK

STREET,

MDCCCXLVII.

CO

VENT

GARDEN,

MAJESTY

HER

TO

QUEEN,

THE

AS

OF

PATRONESS

ALL

IS

THAT

OF

LADIES

THE

MOST

HUMBLY

AND

ENGLAND,

"olume

"I)te

IS

USEFUL

AND

DEDICATED.

MOST

RESPECTFULLY

ORNAMENTAL,

CONTENTS.

NETTING.
Page

Netting

Knitting

and

Gentleman's

Silk

10

Purse

11

Mittens

Netted

Silk

Wool

and

ib.

Mittens
.

Muffatees

Netted
Purse

Guage

12

Colours

of two

netted

in Points

13
.

Netting

Grecian

in

Purse

Shaded

Treble
Diamond

Silk

Colours

14

Purse

ib.

Netting

Diamond

15

ib.

Netting
Fringe

Netted

Ruffle

An

of different

Squares

Netted

ib.

ib.
Cuff

Ruff

pretty Netted

elegant

16

Purse

Netted

Cardinal

Flower

Baskets

for

with

Child's

Cornucopia

Neck

Pattern

ib.
17
18

or

Stands

19

CROCHET.
Simple
Plain

Crochet

Plain

Double

Double
Plain

20

Crochet

Stitch
Stitch

21
Crochet

ib.

Crochet

ib.

Elastic

Crochet

ib-

Vlll

CONTENTS.

XI

CONTENTS.

Page

Knee

Caps"

Siberian

Size

Large

ib.

Boddice

....

Leaf

.87

Pattern
.

Pre

86

Comforter
Double

85

...

ty Ruff

Ladies'

fur

Carriage

Babies'

88

Neck

tbe

...

Boots

ib.

89

Boots
...

Ruff

for the

Neck

Size

Large

"

.90
.

ib.

Boa

Berlin

Bustle

.91
.

Cuffs

Deep
Child's

to

the

over

rather

Spencer,

Dress,

large

for

walking

92

size
.

.93
.

Gentleman's

ib.

out

Sleeve

Spencer

Shawl

wear

Bosom

ib.

Friend
.94

Fringe

EMBROIDERY.
1

Tent

.90

Stitch
.

ib.

Plate

XVII.

Plate

XVIII.

.97
.

Cross

Straight

Cross

Windsor

Stitch

Pavilion

Stitch

....

Stitch

ib.
.

ib.

.99

Josephine

Berlin

Czar

ib.

Stitch

ib.

Irish

Stitch

100
.

Willow

1 1

Long

14

Stitch

ib.

Plait
.

.101

FeatherStitch

ib.
.

13

ib.

12

Stitch
.

10

Stitch

98

Stitch

Stitch
Point

la

Vandyck

ib.
.

Stitch
.

.102
.

Xll

CONTENTS.

Page

Square

15

Plait

102
....

16

Stitch

Gobelin

ib.
.

17

Stitch

Perspective

103
.

18

Star

ib.
.

19

Stitch

Velvet

ib.
...

Stitch

Serpentine

20

.104
.

Star

Double

21

ib.
.

Crossed

22

...

Stitch

Long

ib.
.

23

Stitch

ib.
.

25

105
.

Lace

Stitch

Fancy

24

Princess

106

Stitch
...

26

Stitch

Hohenlinden

ib.
.

27

ib.

Pattern

Cane

28

Sutherland

.107

Stitch
.

29

Darmstadt

30

Palace

ib.

Pattern

.108

Pattern
.

31

Patterns

Plaid

ib.
.

32

Diamonds

.109
.

Work.

Braid

and

Applique

ib.
.

.110

Grounding

Instructions

General

Ill
.

The

Movable

Knife

Mesh

.112
.

Raised

Work

113
.

PREFACE.

The

praise'5will

need

that

is
be

It is

Berlin

it is

and

that

beauty,
whose

it is

flourishes

it

has

which

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14

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16

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forms

the

CROCHET^

five

inches

knotted,

handsome

very

Netted

Take

meshes,
the

other

with

the

and

about

one

remove

and

draw

part

then

them

mesh

Then

and

the
and
out

rows

of

finish
your

with

form

two

rounds

the

large

then

mesh,

fine

by

the

other

long

two

by netting
the

small

Net

mesh.

two

again

with

the

upon

the

fine

the

run

the

roll

row,

the

with

one

bobbin, and

loops formed

for

rounds

two

seventh

connect

to

as

net

the

into

foundation

piece exactly

foundation

the

with

the

rows

ribbon

largermesh

into
in the

netting.

meshes

other

thread

foundation

"

Ruff

Netted

pretty

Take

the

bobbin

thirteen

off the

cut

two

wide, and

inch

Net

double

fiue mesh

round

one

draw

two

Then

large netting,so

with

large mesh,

this

after

form

the

loops,

shawl.

an

mesh.

piece of

to

up

together.

rounds

fine

take

mesh, then

the

run

it

of the

rows

knots.

these

forty-fourstitches, and

round

the

row

Cuff.

three-eighthsof
14

next

looped fringe.

as

fringefor

of

large mesh,

half, and

in

No.

it

Ruffle

foundation

Cut

wide.

leave

or

the

Net

mesh.

same

one

white

No.

flat
13

of

for

Child's

Neck.

forty-eight stitches, and

ivory mesh,
round

half

mesh.

superfinefleecy,and

Use
four

inch

an

skein

skeins

two

wide, and
of
of

threescarlet

KNITTING^

German

wool.

fine mesh,

and

with

row

four

the

scarlet

rows

with

the

three

rows

with

the

and

and

four

half

the ruffle

then

times,
the

so

fine

ends

and

An

attach

Make
and
of

No.

gold

of

with

six

ribbon

and

this forms

order, and

Fold

edges, and

of

rows

until

needleful

thread.

blue, four
the
of

and

twenty stitches,

needle, six skeins

22

ninth

leaving four

stitches

row

silver

the

leave
from

the

scarlet, forty white

is the

four

to

and

silver

and

scarlet,

repeat these

required.

Take

your

figure

the

beginning, by darning

and

forwards
the

the

in the

to

the

fourth
Run

beginning.

twelfth

seventh, eighth,

the

stitch

plain stitches, and

fourth

white

of

commence

fill up

from

fourth

width

thread

row

from

backwards

silver from

rows

blue

silver thread

finest

plain

silver

loops

the

four

the

Pattern.

Cornucopia

of

Net

purse

the

third

the

upon

each

skeins

two

tie

tie it with.

to

No.

four

this

places ; gather

hundred

one

the

large mesh,

same

the

to

with

rows

the

fine.

scarlet

with

and

in the

of the

the

large mesh,

large mesh

rows

rows

mesh,

20

tambour

forty

blue

the

four

superfine netting silk, (two each, blue,

and
scarlet,)

and

with

then

mesh

four

then

of scarlet

scarlet

foundation

use

the

Purse

elegant

one

upon

parts together at about

up,

then

white

row

bring

to

as

large mesh,

large

three

finish with

the

the

repeat these

with

upon

white

more

the

fine mesh

one

the white

in

rows

with

rows

more

large mesh,

three

Net

17

EMBROIDERY.

AND

thirteenth

row,

in

in the

fill in

with

in the

the

the
fifth
the

sixth

18

NETTING,

blue

the

to

blue

leave

row

blue

leave

row

five

leave

eighth, tenth
blue
two

six

and

be

to

thirteen

blue

eleventh.

plain

stitches

of

the

accordingto
of

rows

figure:
each

blue.

tenth

On

fill in

with

Then

place

and

This

silver.

which

next

leave

row

commences

leaving

so

worked

be

must

plain

two

complete the stripeby-

to

the

each

of

three

lower

from

rightdistance

the

at

The

fourteenth, fifteenth

above,

them

nine

leave

twelfth

the

the

between

ninth

eleventh.

the

proceed

stitches

eighth

the

On

the

and

blue.

directions

this will

other.
the

Upon
thread
the

On

cornucopias,

the

leaving ten

tenth.

fifth

the

from

in

stitches, fill in the seventh

blue

sixteenth,stitches

another

the

the seventh

On

tenth.

plain stitches,fill

stitches, fill the

rows

and

the

thirteenth, omitting

row

the fourth

stitches, fillin from

blue

thirteenth, omitting

the

to

four

CROCHET,

white

is to be

stripe,which

used

in the

follows, the

now

same

as

way

the

gold

silver upon

blue.
It must

be

netting this
and

borne

purse,

in
we

mind,
have

stitches," in their

of knots
used

those

diamonds

No.

11.

used
usual

but, in the directions

words
and

in another

with

the

"

namely,

for the

for

for

directions

expressions

sense,

the

pattern,

meaning

rows"
rows

have

we

the

rows

of

stitch.

Cardinal.

knittingpins required,one

Begin

in

the

sense,

singlediamond

Netted

Two

that

fiftystitches

of
on

No.
the

2, and

one

of

largest pin,

AND

KNITTING,

do

seven

take

the

on

nine

with

the

and

to

stitches

pin,

this

border

net

the

up

shades

netting

two

stitches
three
one

of

net

row

the

of
three

reversed

netting

purse.

four

rows,

darkest

of

shade

23

large
Both

the

large pin

do

two

the

side

rows

netting,

Stands.

No.

darkest
the

other

small

pin,

and

stand,
in

the

of

and

each,

Seventy-two

15.

shade

and

large pin,

shades

with

small

pin,

large pin

the

skeins

two

and

large pin

finishes
without

wool,

shade

shades

next

lightest

above

No.

each

large

them.

with

each

the
three

stitch, then

or

German

pins,

of

rows

row

by

of

"

pin,

them.

to

of

two

small

on

have

each

loops

Flower-Baskets

Five

then

and

pin,

rows

must

thus

small

each

take

the

all

collar

finished

be

pin,

the

on

between

rows

small

netting, alternately, one

rows

net

The

in

small

two

with

one

every

large

on

on

to

small

collar

three

net

and

in

the

one

go

wool.

two

and

cape

now

Remember

with

rows

with

every

large pin,

double

stitches

two

rows

in

pin

times.

pin

on

small

on

row

two

stitches

two

rows

do

then

large pin,

take

then

rows,

19

EMBROIDERY.

two

and

double
which

same

of

rows

double

pin,
each

wool,
wool.

must

manner

be

one

The

joined
as

CROCHET.

Crochet

Work

it has

attention,though
now

brought

very

many

The

modes

Crochet,
Stitches.

more

somewhat

will

state

To
form

Open

The

manner

be

found

the

process

begin
a

and

shall be
the

and

as

foundation,
a

second, then

Plain

Crochet

with

of

your

catchingthe

one

of

wool,

end

one

is

tion
execu-

the

needle

so

on

we

and

the

other

after
this

that each

till you

article intended

through

To

"

through

another, taking care

on

"

or

these

working

Crochet

skein

loop at

silk

Stitch

accomplishment

moderately tight,and
Pass

appliedto

classified thus

Simple

take

it is

plainlyas possible.

with

requisitelength for

made.

is

Crochet,

of

easy

then

winding it,make
draw

known

describe,though their

difficult to

will

be

stitchingmay
Double

much

elegance and utility.

of

both

purposes

Single Crochet,
Open

been

long

and
great perfection,

to

of

only latelyattracted

has

the

last

have
to

be

loop,

side, draw

it

22

CROCHET,

NETTING,

left to

from

under

In

right.

chain.

of the

mesh

Open

Plain-stitch
is

Crochet

performed by crocheting five

the

of

loop

the

same

stitch

fifth stitch

foundation.

the

this to

the

to

centre

the

of

one

be

chain.

last

again
Repeat
in

ensuing, rows
attach

to

care

the

to

must

of the

Do

taking

way,

stitches

which

foundation,

in the

crocheted

the

take

doing this,always

each

in

loop

fifth

every
the

ceding
pre-

row.

Open
It is not

In

for

length
at

stitch,but

first

the

the

through

first

silk,and

through

silk

loop

draw

will

one

plain

two

stitch

over

of

first
it

chain

done

be

the

needle

through

three

stitches

these

needle, bringing

it

the

chain, and

will

on

silk

the

two,

this

After

the

this

will still leave

through

you

other

or

this, draw

made.

"

plain stitch

stitches,which

and

requisite

silk

pass

again through

remain,
must

the

the

will have

you

Having

the

then

of

the

work

bring

ing
of work-

described

of

needle, and

loop

mode

thus

chain

then

the

needle.

the

but

the

be

foundation, and

your

round

the

bring

it may

place make

beginning;

material

two

clearlyto explain the

easy

this

Crochet.

this

through

when

single

put
the

again find

the

third
three

stitches

in

before, making

plain stitch

the

Open

Double

is

similar

stitch

that

the

the

single

through

the

stitches

are

successivelyproduced.

long

Open

Treble

This,
the

its

as

last in

before

elegant

appearance,

which

beads,

passing
three

two,

one

to

on

long

be
the

exceedingly pretty

This
of
before
stitches

is done
a

row,

the
must

middle

be

be

stitch.

one

differs from

long

stitches

It has

diversified
on

stitch

will be

with

strong silk,

of each

found

an

to

of the
have

an

effect.

the

and

STITCH.

and

commencement

by making

first

needle

open

plain one.

may

MAKE

at

one

three

threaded

This

ones.

TO

and

of

every
and

must

the

Crochet.

being composed

of

difference,

together, and

implies,merely

name

instead

this

making

stitches

this

two

as

end.

passing

without

By

means

the

made

are

by

loop

next

proceed

Crochet

omitted

one

at

last,with

the

to

long

two

which

needle, upon

your

23

EMBROIDERY.

AND

KNITTING,

after

crocheted

stitch

one

the
in the

of

sion
conclua

chain

last, which

followingrow.

new

24

NETTING,

CROCHET,

EDGE

Draw
row,

or

rounds

loop through
the

on

the

first

round, should

then

STITCH.

draw

be

you

another

stitch

the

on

in

working

loop through

the

one

last made.
TO

Make

INCREASE

stitches

two

TO

Take
miss

in the

stitch.

regulatedby

The

done

by keeping

the

stitches

other

when

made

by passing the

of the

chain, and

should

not

be

TO

Place

the

two

colours, so

as

to

seen.

called, a Raised
needle

working

should

These

hole.

each

STITCH,

it is sometimes

as

the
It is

work.

directlyover

being

DIVIDING

but

from

stitch

repaid by

the

to

in different

working
half

it is

but

care,

imparts

or,

this will be

STITCH.

it

the

otherwise

or

one,

the increase.

beauty

prevent

as

necessityof doing

requires great

additional

loop.
STITCH.

together

TRUE

This

STITCH.

same

DECREASE

stitches

two

be

used

made

in

stitches
one

meshes

in the

above

working

with

the

same

other,

Chenille.

ON.

FASTEN

lengths of

both

through

two

Stitch, is

the

wool

together with

KNITTING

the

ends

few

stitches

in

opposite directions, and

with

be

done

crochet

both.

TO

must

25

EMBROIDERY.

AND

OFF

FASTEN

the

by drawing

wool

the

through

last stitch.
TO

This

is

stitches

done

with

is

afterwards

In

Patterns

for the

used

formed

should

be
of

row

the

the

is
which

next

black

off.

to

separate

two

then

black,
of

two

colours,

black,

the

the

is very

which

dividingline
the

white-grounded stripe 2 gold

not

suit the shade

gold

and

there

row

2 black.
are

last

and

plain gold colour,

This

scarcelyany

apply to, by varying

used.

are

stripesto

gold colour, working

next

the

again.

Supposing

and

and

dividing line

given, as

it does

neatest

nately,
stitches,alter-

two

row,

Crochet,

is

thread

cut

ground

of

rich

old

tied and

the

black

white

the

few

LINE.

of

white, alternately
; the
and

be

grounding.
of

down

infinitelythe

DIVIDING

plain

generally used

to

is

ground colour, and

next

before

and

colour

ENDS.

them

produced by working

the

be

running

however

can

This

THE

needle

up,

plan. They

JOIN

by

the

worked

quite

OR

RUN

the

tion
explanapatterns
colours

26

NETTING,

CROCHET,

EXAMPLES.

No.

Pattern

Handsome
The
and

Foundation

2 black

Roiv,
and

plain

Ninth

Row,

white.
2

Row,

Tenth

scarlet,

black,

claret,

4
1

white,
1

and

9 white.

black, 3 blue,

white,

blue,

white.

blue,

Row,

scarlet, 1 white,

scarlet,8 white.

Row,

yellow,2

white,

yellow, 8

And

so

repeat, beginning at the top

No.

This

Bag,

would

if worked

or

pretty
The

Pattern

as

in

be

blue,

Eighteenth
Nineteenth

white.

Twenty-first Row,

claret,

Seventeenth

white.

scarlet,
1

Row,

Row,

plain Row,

3 purple,

white,

4 white.

10

Twentieth

black,

white.

row.

II.

suitable

silk, would

for
look

Carriage
neat

and

purse.

Foundation

should

Fourteenth

green,

Sixteenth

white.

black, and

repeat. Thirteenth

so

claret,

blue,

black.

Twelfth Row,

white, 3

Fifteenth Row,

white,

Row,

plainwhite.

green,

Seventh

blue, and

Row,

white, 2 green,

Fourth

gold.

blue,

Row,2

plainblue.

Row,

purple,8 white,

Second

blue, and

black.

h Row,

green,

white.

Row,

Eighth

plain

white,
2

blue.

El event

Row,

plain black.

gold, alternately.Fifth Row,

Sixth

Row,

Cover.

Table

alternately. Third

white.

for

Row,

blue, and

I.

be

worked

in black.

First

Plate

I.

Plate

III.

Plate

IV.

KNITTING

Row,

5 orange,

black.

AND

Second

6 black.

black, 3 orange,

Row,

7%z"c?

drab,

drab,

black,

primrose, 4 black,

drab,

black,

black,

drab.

drab,

Fourth

black, 5

scarlet,

7 orange,

black,

black,

correspondwith

scarlet.

1
4

the

This

The
1 1

wool,

black, 6 dark

blue,

black,

yellow, 4 black,

Second

Fourth

pink,

black, 2

crimson, 8 black,

crimson,

black,

crimson.

pink,

crimson,

black,

black, 3
3

pink,

pink.

yellow,

black,

Sixth

Row,

black,
1

Row,

Row,
1 black

black, 1 crimson,
2

yellow,

Fifth

yellow.

crimson,
Seventh

yellow,4 black,

pink, 5 black,

black,

Row,

yellow,2 black,

yellow,4 black,

black, 2

yellow,1 black,

Row,

yellow, 4

blue,

Third

black,

pink, 4 black,

blue,

yellow,

black,

eight-

dark

10

Row,

Row,

in

fleecy.

yellow, 1 black,

black, 3 yellow,1 black, 2

fine

First

worked

blue, 3 black, 8 blue.

one

yellow,4 black,

yellow.

with

or

blue.

to

Pillow.

suitable

to be black.

Foundation

plainblack

Row,

Sofa

is very

German

thread

black,

Row,

III.

Elegant

an

Pattern

ifow?,

Foundation.

No.
As

"'#"A

scarlet, 1 black,

Seventh
Last

orange.

Fifth Row,

drab.

scarlet, 1 black, 2 scarlet, 7 black,

black,

primrose,

Row,

primrose.

scarlet,

black, 2 drab,

orange,

black, 7

black, 4

scarlet,

ito^, 5

2?

EMBROIDERY.

pink,

"

crimson,
black,

pink, 2 black, 4 pink, 4 black, 3 pink, 3 black,

pink,

28

3
4

NETTING,

black,

pink. Eighth

yellow,4 black,
yellow,

CROCHET,

black, 2 yellow.

black,

yellow,

black,

yellow,9 black,

blue,

blue,

Eleventh
Last

black,

black,

black,

It looks

The
a

black

well.
Second

coloured

best

yellow,
Tenth

black,

black,

black,

1 blue.

dark

blue.

11

the Foundation.

for

Table

Cover

German

in 8-thread

or

wool.

this pattern is given with

printillustrating

ground, but

7*

will be found

white
black.

Foundation,
Row,

IV.

pretty Pattern

Pillow.

yellow,

blue,

blue,

correspond with

to

No.

Another

black,

black.

yellow, 1

blue, 10

dark

Row,

yellow, 4 black,

blue,

yellow,4 black,

Ninth

blue, 6 black,

Row,

Row,

black,

black,

yellow,

yellow, 4 black,

Row,

Row,

First

Row,

light scarlet,7 black,

lightscarlet.

Third

look

to

extremely

lightscarlet.

light scarlet,

black, 3

scarlet,2 black, 3 scarlet, 2 black, 6 scarlet, 1 black,

scarlet.

Fourth

black,

scarlet, 3

Fifth Row,
1 dark

Row,

claret, 6

blue, 7 black,

Seventh
4

black,

blue,

black,

blue,

8 blue.

Ninth

black, 8 dark

claret,

For

blue,

blue,

7 dark

blue.

black,

of colour

1
1

blue.
3

blue,

Row,

blue,

black,

Row,

see

Row,

black,

black, 3 blue,
2

dark

scarlet.

Sixth

Eighth
2

black, 6 dark

claret, 1 black,

shades

dark

blue,

blue,

Tenth

scarlet,2 black,

claret.

black,

black,

Row,

black,

black, 7 blue.

1
1

scarlet, 1 black,

black,
dark

blue,

Row,

dark

scarlet,

Roiv,

black,

dark

blue,

claret, 2 black,
claret,

pattern.

black,

Plate

V.

30

drab,

black,

Twelfth Row,
4

dark

black,

dark

dark

dark

lilac, 2

black,
Row,

primrose, 1 black,

black, 3 primrose.

yellow,2 black,

yellow.

black, 2 orange,

black,

Sixteenth

Seventeenth

Row,

black,

No.

As

Cover

Chair

white,
1 1

stone,

stone,

black, 6 dark

black, 5 dark
dark

dark

stone.

black,

Fifth Row,
black,
1

dark
2

Row,

white,

Row,

8
1

black,

11

dark

dark

dark

Sixth

black,

colour,

stone

1 stone,

Row,
dark

dark

stone,

stone,

black,

crimson,

black,

crimson, 9 black,

6' dark

black, 6 dark

son.
crim-

crimson,

crimson,

13

black,

Third

black,

crimson, 7 black, 8 crimson,

black, 6 crimson.

Roiv, black.

stone,

black,

black,

black, 8 orange,

Zas"

1 stone.

Row,

Fourth

extremely elegant.

stone,

stone,

crimson,

crimson,

primrose,

yellow, 2 black,

orange.

Second

black,

black,

2^/*-

VI.

black,

stone,

light

yellow,3 black,

4 orange,

First

black, 3 white.

black,

black,

primrose, 4 black,

Row,

this is

black.

Foundation

Fourteenth

lightlilac.

yellow, 5 black,

lilac,2 black,

lightlilac,4 black,

lilac,

Thirteenth

lilac.

primrose,

drab.

lilac,1 black,

lilac.

lightlilac,4 black,

primrose,

dark

lilac, 7 black,

dark

dark

lilac,1 black,

lightlilac,1 black,

black,

lilac,2 black, 3 dark

lilac,4 black,

lilac,2 black,

teenth

dark

lilac,1 black,

Row,

drab,

lilac,1 black,

lilac,1 black,

Row,
3

CROCHET,

NETTING,

Row,

1
4

crimson,

black, 3 crimson,

light crimson,

Plate

VI.

black, 4 lightcrimson,
1

lightcrimson,

lightcrimson,
4

yellow,

yellow,

Row,

blue,

lightblue,

black, 5 lightblue,

lightblue,

black,

blue,

Row,

black,

blue,

dark

blue,

blue,

black,

1 dark

blue,
1

light blue,

Thirteenth

blue, 4 black,

black,

blue,

black, 4 blue.

1 dark

black,

black,

blue,

blue,

blue,

black,

Row,

yellow,3 black,

yellow.

light crimson,

black,

light blue,

7 black, 2

light crimson,

crimson,

black,

light

black, 6 crimson,
2

dark

crimson,

crimson,

crimson,

7 dark

3
2

black,

black,
black,

stone,

dark

dark

black,

crimson.
1

crimson,

black, 3

black, 5 blue.

black,

yellow,

light crimson,

black,

black,

light crimson,

black,

7 black,

blue,

crimson,

Eleventh

black, 7 lightblue.

crimson,

blue,

black, 5 yellow, 3 black,

Row,

Fourteenth

1 dark

light blue,

black, 3

yellow,

black,

blue.

dark

yellow, 1 black,

black,

blue,

black, 2 blue,

3
4

dark

blue,

black,

blue,

black,

Twelfth Row,

blue, 6 black,

black,

blue,

Row,

Ninth

blue,

1
2

black, 2 light

black, 3 lightblue, 2 black,

lightblue.

Row,

black,

black,

blue,

Row,

yellow. Eighth

yellow, 4

1 dark

black.

lightblue,

black, 3 yellow,I black,

black,

black,

Seventh

black, 6 light crimson.

black, 5 yellow,

black,

black, 2 lightcrimson,

black, 6 light crimson,

black,

TWA

31

EMBROIDERY.

AND

KNITTING^

black,

Row,

stone,

crimson,

black, 9 dark

black,

black,

dark

Row,

Seventeenth
1

Row,

Sixteenth

crimson,

crimson.

light
light

Fifteenth

crimson,

dark

black,

black,

crimson.

dark

black,

dark

32

NETTING,

black,

stone,
3

black,

1 dark

stone,

13

dark

stone,

black, 6

Last

Row

stone,

black,,

4 stone,

Nineteenth

stone.

dark

black, 6

Eighteenth Row,

stone.

black, 4 white.

23

CROCHET,

7 white,

Row,

the

correspond with

to

Foundation.

No.

This

worked

in

between

in

Pattern
crochet

open

pleasing effect.
also be

can

1
5

or

Fourth

Fifth Row,

here

other

any.
5

of

rows

in

put

Row,

very

colours

colour.

Second

Row,

yellow,

Last

7 orange.

dark

orange.

black, 6 yellow. Third

scarlet.

two

blue, produces

pattern

black,

silk, with

in beads.

black,

1 orange,

Row,

The

worked

Foundation

VII.

Row,

1
to

First

Row,

low,
yel-

scarlet, 1 black,

black,

yellow.

correspond

with

Foundation.
No.

Slippers in

the

made
the

easy

toe

to

style

should

pattern

proper

at

this

size and
with

widen

about
the

in

the

first

instance

of

the

foot, to

commence

stitches.

pattern
2

approved.

the

to

stitches

A
be

It will be found
size

into

of the

the

paper

first and

loops.

Foundation

given in black,
Row,

30

much

are

shape

shape by working
last

VIII.

dark

should
more

green,

be

in

fully
5

white, though Illustration

to

shew

white,

the
dark

colours.
green,

is

First
1

white,

Plate

VII.

Plate

VIII.

Plate

IX.

I
i

-.

'.i

"'

I 1

'

Li

'

II

r
1

34

CROCHET,

NETTING,

7 blue, 11
7 dark

Eleventh

stone.

blue,

stone,

dark

stone, 10 blue,

6 dark

Row,

Last

stone.

plain

Row,

blue.

No.
Sofa

Cushion

black, 6

light

black,

carnation,

claret, 7 black,

black,

dark

dark

green.

green,

black,

light drab,

black,

light drab,

drab,

drab, 6

black,

green,

Tenth

Roiv,

dark

black,

black,

dark

Thirteenth

Row,

black,

1 darkest

Row,

green,

green,

claret,

4
2

black,

black,
black,

Eleventh

Row,
black, 8

green,

dark

darkest

black, 6

green,

drab,

black,

black, 5 dark

black,

darkest
green.

claret,

dark
1

green,

3 darkest

darkest
2

Row,

black, 6

lightdrab,

green,

green,

green.

green,

black, 5 light drab,

Row,

black,

Row,

lightdrab,

black, 8 drab.

black, 5 green,

Twelfth

green.

green.

Eighth
3

black,

black,

black,

black,

light drab,

light drab.

Row,

Seventh

drab.

nation.
car-

green,

5 dark

black,

green.

black,

dark

green,

claret, 1 black,

green,

light drab,

black, 3 drab,

Ninth
4

dark

green,

black,

black,

dark

Row,

black, 5 green,

lightdrab.

black,

dark

green,

Row,

Row,

drab,

Fifth
black,

black,

black,

carnation,

carnation, 5 black,

Fourth

green,

Row,

claret, 1 black,

light carnation,

Second

1 claret.

green,

Sixth
5

dark

Row,

black,

Row,

Third

First

carnation.

Pattern.

Hassock

or

black.

Foundation

X.

green,

green,

teenth
Four-

black,

Plate

X.

Plate

XI.

Plate

XII.

Plate

XIII.

KNITTING,

claret, 4
Row,

black,

carnation,

black,

Sixteenth

light carnation.

Last

carnation, 5 black, 10

Roiv, 8

Fifteenth

claret.

claret,2 black,

35

EMBROIDERY.

AND

light carnation,

Row,

black,

Foundation.

as

same

nation.
car-

XI.
A
The

Foundation
of

row

Pattern

Scroll

Row,

to

black, the
black,

Row,

yellow,3 black,

black,

orange,

Fourth

dark

black,

blue,

blue,

olive,
black,

black,

blue, 5 black, 3 blue,

black,

black,

Seventh

black,

blue,

black, 6 blue,

black, 5 blue, 6 black.

8 dark
3
2

dark

blue,

black,

black, 3 orange,
black,

blue,

orange,

black,

black.

primrose,5 black,

black,

dark

black,
5

black,

black.

Row,
7

4
1

Roiv,

primrose, 4

black,

Ninth

blue,

black,

Row,

black, 5 orange,
Row,

yellow,1 black,
3

black,

black,

blue,

Tenth

black,

Eighth Row,

dark

orange,

Sixth

Row,

blue,

black,

blue,

blue, 4 black.

yellow, 2 black,
Eleventh

olive,

blue,

black,

black,

dark

dark

Row,

black,

orange,

blue,

black,

Third

1 orange,

14

yellow,1 black,

primrose,

black.

blue, 7 black.
2

First

blue, 3 black.

2 dark

plain

primrose,7 black,

black,

Fifth Row,

black, 3 dark

then

commence.

black,

Row,

orange,

9 black.

2 orange,

to

yellow,2 black,

black,

primrose,12

black.

yellow,9

of

black,

Border.

then

primrose, 2

primrose,2 black,
5

formed

be

pattern

11

Second

black.

for

yellow,

yellow,

primrose, 6 black,

black.

Twelfth Row,

36

CROCHET,

NETTING,

14

black,

The

last

primrose, 6 black,

No.

This

is

Pattern

it is in the

Pattern, but

shades, and
Crochet

open

sides
in

is

should

be

crocheted

centre

affixed

tassel

black,

4
2

crimson.

crimson,

dark

Fourth

crimson.

green,
Sixth

Row,

black,

black,

black,

2
4

crimson.

Last

same

joined

crimson.
1

black,

crimson,

black,

green,

black,

black,

black,
3

bright

black,

bright

bright

dark

crimson.

Foundation.

2 dark

black,

Roiv,

lightcrimson,
as

up,

crimson,

Seventh

black, 3

black,

Row,

light

crimson,

space

light crimson,

bright green,

crimson.

crimson,

two

beads.

dark

crimson,

dark

dark

light crimson,

black,

bright green,

the

other

black,

of

rows

gathered

the

Row,

bright

be

and

1 dark
4

few

fringe of

Row,

Fifth Roiv,

green.

should

Row,

crimson

pretty light colour.

First

black,

the

for

as

handsome

together, leavinga

with

Third

dation.
Foun-

worked

very

with

end,

crimson,

the

length desired,

light crimson,

Row,

Second

the

black.

Foundation
5

in

one

finished

and

square

to

beads

ends

the

with

Purse

green,

between,
Purse

the

the

steel

the

When

for

makes

for the

gold

black.

XII.

suitable

by substituting

one

18

primrose,

correspond

plain, to

Rows

green.

crimson,
3

crimson,
Row,

Eighth
2

black,

light

Plate

XIV.

AND

KNITTING,

This
is

and

is

Pattern

37

EMBROIDERY.

No.

XIII.

pretty

for

particularlysuitable

long
for

short

or

the

Purses,

introduction

of

beads.

7 blue.

Second

1 scarlet.
1

black,

7 blue.

Row,

Third

scarlet,

First

black.

in

Foundation

Fourth

Row,

Covers, Sofa
First

Row,

Second

Roiv,

scarlet,

dark

5 dark

scarlet,

5 dark

blue,

2
2

black,
dark

blue.

blue,

Row,

lightblue,

black,

lightblue,

1
2

black, 2

6
2

scarlet.

scarlet, 1

1 1

6 dark

blue,

black,

Fourth

black,

Row,

dark

blue,

black,

black, 6

15

Third

blue.

blue,
black,
dark

Seventh

black, 2 lightblue, 14 black, 3 light

light blue,
4

Eighth Row,

black,

light blue,

lightblue, 5 black,

blue,

dark

blue,

Table

"c.

scarlet.

Fifth Row,

light blue.

5 black,

dark

dark

black, 6

blue, 11

for

black, 7 light scarlet.

black, 9

12

dark

blue.

Covers,

black, 3

black, 3

dark

black,

black,

Sixth

Row,

scarlet,

10

scarlet,

7 blue, 1 black,

Pattern, suitable

light scarlet, 14

light

XIV.

Pillows, Chair

Row,

plainblack.

Row,

handsome

very

black,

Fifth Row,

No.

black,

lightscarlet,1 black,

scarlet, 5 black.

Last

blue,

scarlet,5 black, 1 scarlet,1 black,

Row,

black.

Row,

lightblue,
1

black,

lightblue.

lightblue,

light blue,
3

black,

black, 2 lightblue,

light blue,
Ninth

black,

Row, 2 white,

38

black, 3

black,

3
1
1

white,
white,

black,

primrose,
black,

black,

2 orange,

orange,

Row,
2

Row,

light

light blue,

blue.

light blue,

blue,

black,

blue.

dark

black,

black,

black,

3
1

blue,

2
3

blue,
black,

1 1

black,

black,

black,

Twenty-third Row,

black,

12

black,

11

teenth
Six-

orange.
dark

11

drab.

light drab,

light blue,

Row,

light blue,
1

black,

blue.

blue,

dark
3 dark

black,

black,

light blue,

light blue,

white,

light blue,

black, 5
1

teenth
Eigh-

black,

13

Row,

Row,
1

primrose,

black, 3

black,

1 orange,

black,

Twenty -firstRow,

black, 3 blue,

rose,
prim-

black, 3 light drab.

light
1

black,

Fifteenth Row,

1 orange.

black,

Twenty-second
blue,

Row,

black,

light blue,

drab.

black,

orange,

orange,

13

lightblue,
1

primrose,

Twentieth
1

drab,

black, 6 dark

Nineteenth

light blue,

black,

8 dark

black, 3 white,

drab,

black, 7

light drab,

white,

black, 7 drab,

Row,

black, 7 primrose,2 black,

drab,

white.

black,

drab,

orange,

light drab,
2

3
3

drab,

Thirteenth

orange,

dark

10

Seventeenth

black,

black,

Row,

black,

black,

primrose, 3 black,

white,

orange.

black,

black,

drab,

Fourteenth
3

white.

black, 5 primrose, 7

primrose.

blue.

white,

Row,

orange,

black,

black, 6

Row,

Eleventh

10

black,

white, 3

drab, 7 black, 8 dark

8 orange,

Tenth

black, 7 drab.

Twelfth Row,

13

black,

drab,

black,

black, 6 white.

6 dark

'CROCHET,

NETTING,

black,

dark

blue,

black,

blue,

blue,
5

2
1

black,
black,

black,

blue,

dark

blue, 18 black, 3 dark

XV.

Plate

"i

AND

KNITTING,

blue.
dark

scarlet.

light scarlet.

Twenty -fifthRow,

scarlet.

Elegant

Pattern

Cover,

Sofa

It

be

will

Pillow,

fifty stitches, if
Wool,

will

Cover, and
full- sized
First
3

claret, 6

black, 3

black,

black,

1 dark

dark

dark

claret,

1 1 dark

1 dark

scarlet, 5

German
Table

stitches

for

dark

black,

dark

dark

1 dark

dark

black,
2

dark

dark

scarlet,

black,
4

Third

dark

Row,

dark

scarlet,
2

scarlet, 3 black,

scarlet, 2 black,

dark

scarlet, 3 black,

scarlet, 4 black,

black,

scarlet, 4 black,

scarlet, 4

scarlet, 2 black, 6 dark

black,

black,

scarlet, 4 black,

scarlet, 7 black.

claret, 9 black,

scarlet, 8 black, 3 dark

scarlet, 5 black,

scarlet,

of

and

black, 3 claret,

Row,

black,
1

black, 8

claret,

scailet,

black, 3 dark
dark

hundred

claret, 4 black, 2 claret,

scarlet, I black, 3 dark

10

fiftv

"c.

claret, 2 black, 3 claret, 6 black,

1 1 dark

scarlet, 2

black,

six

length

and

Second

scarlet,2 black,
1

Wrapper,

eight-thread

average

scarlet, 2 black,

scarlet, 1 black,
5

black,

claret, 6 black.

2 dark

in

Chair

or

Pillow.

claret, 4 black, G

10

about

hundred

Sofa
5

that

the

one

Table

Carriage

worked

form

Row,

claret,

for

found

scarlet, 19 black,

XV.

No.
An

lightscarlet, 18 black,

Twenty-sixth Row,

black,

scarlet, 18

dark

Twenty -fourth Row,

39

EMBROIDERY.

dark

black,
5

dark

scarlet,

scarlet,1 black,

scarlet, 2 black,

scarlet, 3 black, 9 dark

dark

scarlet,

40

black,

dark

scarlet,

black,

black, 7 dark

dark

scarlet, 9 black.

scarlet, 2 black,

scarlet, 2 black,

black,

6 dark

dark

dark

dark

dark

dark

dark

black,

dark

scarlet,

dark

scarlet, 10 black,
black, 2

scarlet, 5 black,

2 dark

dark

dark

scarlet,

scarlet, 5 black,
1 black.

scarlet, 1

Fifth

scarlet, 7 black, 5

scarlet,

black, 7 scarlet, 8 black, 3 scarlet, 2 black, 4

scarlet,

black, 3 scarlet, 2

black,

Row,

scarlet,

scarlet,

scarlet, 2 black,

scarlet, 3 black,

Row,

Fourth

scarlet, 2 black,

scarlet, 1 black,
2

CROCHET,

NETTING,

black,

scarlet, 1 black,

scarlet,

scarlet, 3 black, 3 scarlet, 7 black,

scarlet,

black,

scarlet, 9

black,

scarlet.

Sixth

scarlet,3 black,

scarlet, 1 black,

scarlet,

scarlet, 8 black, 3 scarlet,

scarlet, 2 black,

scarlet, 2 black,

scarlet, 4 black, 2 scarlet, 3 black,

scarlet, 5 black,

1 scarlet.
2
14

black,
4

scarlet,

Row,

Seventh

black,

scarlet, 4 black,

black,

scarlet,

black,

scarlet, 2

black,

scarlet,

black,

scarlet,

black,

black,

black,

scarlet,

scarlet,

scarlet, 1 black, 4 scarlet,

black, 3 scarlet, 1 black, 3 scarlet, 2 black,

scarlet,
2

scarlet, 5 black,

black, 9 scarlet, 9 black,

Row,

scarlet,

black,

scarlet, 3 black,

scarlet,

black,

scarlet, 4 black,

scarlet,

15

black,

light scarlet, 4 black,

scarlet.

Eighth Row,

light scarlet, 4 black,

light

scarlet, 2 black, 7 lightscarlet, 12 black, 7 light scarlet,

light scarlet, 3 black,

black,

light scarlet,

scarlet, 4 black,
13

black,

3
4

light scarlet, 1 black,

black, 2 light scarlet, 4 black,

light scarlet, 2 black,

light scarlet.

Ninth

Row,

light

light scarlet,

light scarlet,

42

drab,

black,

12

black,

light drab,

drab,
1

black,

black,

white,

white,

black,

white.

black,

black,

white,

black,

white, 6 black,

white,

black,

white,

white,

white,

white.

black,

white,

black,

black,

white,

black,

light drab,

black,

light drab,

lightdrab,

black,

light

lightdrab,

black,

light drab,

1 black,

black, 5 lightdrab,

light drab,

black,

white,

black,

black,

2
3

black,

light drab,

light drab,

drab.

white,

black,

white,

light drab,
black, 5

Row,

white,

11

white,

white,

black,

black,

black,

white, 2 black,
white,
4

black,

light

black,

light drab,
1

black,

lightdrab,

Row,

black,

black,

black,

light drab,

white.

white,

1 black.

lightdrab,

Twenty-first

black, 6 white,

black,

black,

Row,

white,

black,

white,

Twentieth

black,

black,

drab, 8 black,

white,

Row,

black,

black,
2

11

white,

white,

Eighteenth

white,

14

black, 6 white,

white,

Nineteenth

black,

light

black,

white,

black,

black,

black,

white,

10

light drab,

light drab,

Row,

black,

1 1

light drab,

Seventeenth

black, 3 white,

black,

light

black,

11

black,

black,

light drab,

white, 14 black, 3 white,

black,

light

black,

12

light drab,

black,

1 1

black.

light drab,

light drab,

10

light drab,

drab,

black,

light drab,

black,

light drab,

black,

Row,

light drab,

black, 3

11

Sixteenth

black.

black,

black,

9 black.

12

light drab,

light drab,

light drab,

drab,
4

CROCHET,

NETTING,

black,

light drab,

light drab,

black,

AND

KNITTING,

light drab,

drab,

light drab,

lightdrab,

Row,

light drab,

drab,

black, 10 light drab,

light drab,

black,

light drab.

drab,

drab,

black,

black,

black,

black,
1 drab.

drab,

drab,

drab,

drab,

drab,

black,

sixth

drab,
2

Row,

black,

drab,

black, 3

black,

black,
black,

drab,

drab,

black,

black,

drab, 3 black,

drab,

black,
1

1
1

black,

drab,
13

Twentylight blue,

light blue,

drab,

black,

13

black.

black,

lightblue,

lightblue,

drab,

drab, 6 black,

drab,
3

black,

Twenty -fifthRow*

black,

black,
3

black,

light blue,

black,

black.

drab,

light blue,

light blue,

II

drab,

black, 3 drab,

drab,

drab,

black,

black,

black, 3

black,

black,

drab,

13

drab,

drab,

drab,

drab,

black,

black,

black, 4

black, 3 drab,

black,

drab,

black,

black,

drab,

drab,

drab,

drab,

12

black,

black,

drab,

black,

drab,

black,

12

black,

black, 3 drab,

black,

drab,

black, 4 drab,

Twenty-fourth Row,

black,

drab,

drab,

black,

black,

black, 8 drab,

black,

black,

13

light drab,

light drab,

Row,

-third

Twenty

light

black, 3 lightdrab,

black,

black,

light drab,

light drab,

light drab,

II

black,

lightdrab.

black,

black,

black,

8 black,

light drab,

light drab,

light drab,

black,

light

light drab,

light drab,

black,

black,

black,

black,

black.

black,

10

black, 5 light drab,

Twenty-second
2

light drab,

light drab,

black, 6

black,

black,

43

EMBROIDERY.

black,

lightblue,

light blue,

black,

44

CROCHET^

NETTING,

lightblue,

1 black.

Twenty-seventh Row,

lightblue,
black,

blue,

black,

light blue,

black,

Row,

light blue,

black,

light blue,

12

black,

Twenty-ninth

black,

Row,

black,

blue, 10

blue,

Row,
8

black, 6 blue,
blue,

13

11
2

blue,

black,
dark

15

black,

blue,

1 1

2
5

1 dark

1
13

black,

blue,

21

12

blue,
5

dark

blue.

dark

blue.

black,

black,
blue,

blue, 9 black,
3

dark
14

blue,

black,

blue, 6 black, 8 dark

black,

blue, 6 black, 5 dark

black,

black, 19 blue,

blue, 7 black,

1 dark

blue,

Thirty-first

black,
dark

13

blue, 10

blue.

blue,

black,

black,

black,

black.

blue,

light blue,

black,

Thirty-third Row,

blue.

black,

dark

12

blue,

black,

black,

black, 7 blue,

black,

black,

lightblue,

blue,

blue,

black,

light blue,

black, 2 light

black,

black, 3 blue,

blue, 10

blue,

black, 8 dark

dark

black, 3

light blue,

black,

blue, 10 black,

black,

blue, 19 black,

dark

light blue,

light blue,

Thirty-second Row,

7 black, 3 dark

black, 6

lightblue,

black,

black, 3 blue,

black,

black,

black,

blue,

black, 3 blue,

12

blue, 10

12

black, 18 blue,
2

Row,

Thirtieth

lightblue,

black,

blue,

blue, 10 black,

light blue,

blue, 9 black,

black,

black,

13

black, 3 light blue,

light blue,

lightblue,

light blue,

black,

10

black, 3 light blue,

light blue,

black, 3

black, 3 lightblue,

black,

1 1

Twenty-eighth
12

black,

light blue,

light blue,

light blue,
black.

black,

lightblue,

light blue,

light blue,

black,

black,

1 1

lightblue,
1

black, 3 lightblue, 9 black, 3 lightblue,

blue,

blue, 10 black,

Thirty-fourth Row,

Plate

XVI.

black,

14

1 dark

blue,

1 dark

blue,

blue, 22

black,

black, 2 dark

58

plain black
pattern by
5

black,

which,

First

Row,

dark

blue,

1 dark

blue, 24

black,
dark

black, 2

11

black, 2 dark

12

The

black.

blue, 24

after

black,

11

Row,
Thirty -fifth

black.

11

45

EMBROIDERY.

AND

KNITTING,

six

next

rows

line of

another

commence

blue,

the

black, 9 claret,4 black, 6 claret,

claret, 1 black,

claret, 6

black, 3 claret,

black, 3 claret, 1 black, 8 claret,9 black, 9 claret,4 black,

6

claret, 5 black,

thus

the

pattern

with

the

claret,

will

be

Coloured

shifted

The

Foundation

"

and

black.

row

black,

pond
corres-

so

on

nately.
alter-

dark

scarlet, 1 light scarlet, 2 black,

Row,

Row,

light scarlet, 4

Second

to

First

scarlet, 5 scarlet, 1 lightscarlet, 3 black,

scarlet.

as

Pattern.

next

black, 5 light scarlet, 3

black

XVI.

Corner
and

claret,

little,so

Illustration,

No.
A

black,

black,
2

dark

light scarlet,
light scarlet,

light scarlet, 3

dark

scarlet, 5 scarlet, 2 light scarlet, 2 black, 2 light scarlet,

3

dark

scarlet.

scarlet,

Third

dark

scarlet,2 dark

Row,

black,

light scarlet,

scarlet, 1 light scarlet, 1 black, 3 light

1

black,

black,

scarlet, 5 scarlet, 3 lightscarlet,

dark

light scarlet, 2

lightscarlet,1 scarlet,1

dark

light scarlet, 7 black,

light scarlet, 1 black,

scarlet, 7 black.

scarlet,1 black,

scarlet.

Fifth Row,
3

Fourth

Row,

scarlet,2 scarlet,

2 black,

light scarlet, 1 black,

black,
3

light

light scarlet, 2
3

light scarlet,

46

NETTING,

scarlet, 3 scarlet, 1 black, 3 lightscarlet,3 black.

dark

Sixth

black, 2 scarlet, 1 light scarlet, 1 black,

Row,

dark

light scarlet, 2
scarlet, 2 black.
1

black.

Row,

scarlet, 1 black,

black,

Row,

scarlet, 7 black,

scarlet, 1 dark
of

the

next

dark

form

Row,

black, 3

black,

black, 3

dark

scarlet, 1 black,

border

side

thus

be

to

Twelfth

for

to

the

one

until

side.

Thirteenth

"

inside

continued

black,

of black

row

to the

scarlet,

ceed
Pro-

Row,

scarlet, 2 black.
black,

dark

scarlet, 1 black,

black,

scarlet, 2 black.

dark

Fifteenth Row,

scarlet, 1 scarlet, 1

1 dark

scarlet, 2 scarlet, 2

opposite side.
black,

scarlet, 1 scarlet, 2 black.

1 dark

black,
Row,

scarlet,

2 dark

scarlet, 7 scarlet,

plain black

pattern

the

scarlet, 1 black, 3 dark

2

black,

scarlet,2 scarlet, 1 black, 5 lightscarlet,2

scarlet,continue

Fourteenth

light

scarlet, 1 scarlet, 1 black, 6 light

right hand

1 dark

black,

dark

black, 3 dark

The

to

Row,

scarlet, 7 scarlet,3 black.

dark

corner.

the

scarlet,continue

sufficiently
long
with

black, 6 light scarlet,

Tenth

Row,

,2 dark

2 black

light scarlet, 2 scarlet,

light scarlet,3

Eleventh

lightscarlet, 3

Row,

scarlet, 1 black, 3 light scarlet, 3 dark

scarlet, 7 scarlet, 1 black.

let,
light scar-

light scarlet, 7 black,

Ninth

scarlet, 2 dark

2 black.

light

scarlet, 3 scarlet, 3 black, 3 light scarlet,

Eighth

dark

black, 3 light scarlet,

Row,

black,

scarlet, 2 scarlet, 1 black,

scarlet, 1 black.
1

scarlet, 3 scarlet,

Seventh

scarlet, 1 dark
1 dark

CROCHET,

Sixteenth

Rovj,

scarlet, 2 scarlet,
black.

Seventeenth

scarlet,2 lightscarlet,3 scarlet, 1 black,

Eighteenth Row,

black,

scarlet,

48

NETTING,

of stitches
work

be

must

sides

in each

until

sufficient

number

which,

be introduced.

open

few

Dark

it

your

in

worked

be
of

keep

to

row

then
rows

may

with

Pillow

Sofa

two

black

best, mixed

the

are

and

doing this,

may

each

crochet, between
of blue

In

round

and

round

rows

increased

The

flat.

lines

in

work

requisitesize.

the

be

and

ends

join the

CROCHET,

plain

colours

gold.
Plain

in

Open

Treble

and

Crochet.
with

Begin

Crochet

black.

in

with

rows,

work

of six rows,
and
a

contrasted

After

centre.

treble

namely

"

black

crochet, then

open
another

shaded

Another

stripeof
Now

add

another

crochet
carnation

stripeyou
the

reverse

Double

working

German
this

another

row

row

second
and

lilac.

open

then

or

follow

crochet.

stone

treble

this
black

Again

make

with
row.

black

stripein yellows,and
a

with.

super

of

Another

shaded

arrangement

pillow.

black

black

began

wool

consist

stripe of

row

then

carnation, stone, yellow,lilac,

stripe of

repeat the black

again, and

shall

fourth

black

row,

Work

treble
a

black

shades

stripe of

work

row.

five

carnation,

first in different

again.

row

of

crochet, which

Work

striperesembling the

of

shade, leavingthe lightest

open

of green.

another

eighty stitches

shades

this, another

green,

"

and

stripe,composed

darkest

the

stripeof

hundred

one

shaded

well

with

the

form

three

commencing
to

of

chain

of

row

and

treble
the

To

complete

the

coloured

fleecy may

be

open

shaded
the

low,
pil-

stripes.
used

in

Chine

KNITTING,

AND

Cradle

of

working
black.

this

Chine

in blue

dividingline

black.

be

be worked

may
the

in

The

scarlet

pattern in white,

better

the

adapted

well

Make

and

chain

the

ground

wool, with

Chine

found

stitches of

alternate

row,

The

wool.

Quilt.

be

pattern.

second

The

blue

would

wools

49

EMBROIDERY.

the first

of

first
black

of

except the

and
be

the

the

Let

stripe

next

wool, with

Chine

crimson

or

row

stripeto

pattern in white.

ground

the

to

is

line, which

centre

black.

Crochet

Silk

Bag

Star-shaped

with

Bottom.

made

Having

selected,unite
round.
the

To

next

the

needle

the

In

circle
a

both

instead

of

stitch

seam

loops instead

followingrow

Let

one.

always taking care

keep

moderate

which

continue

is

as

should

large as
be

in

the

sized
rows

desired

"

black, the

do

of

number

being

-stitch in
each

between

in the

be

rows

same

plain stitches,
After

formed.

widening

first five

other

two

repeatedtwenty times,

circle will

the

make

seam

the seam-stitch

without

in

which, pass

stitch

the

make

all

row

stitch

and

of one,

alternate

this circle be

to

other

to

colour

the

plain

plain stitches

place,increasingby degreesthe
when

work

flat,let every

place,leavingtwo

same

stitches,in

ten

place,every

same

the

of

ends, and

two

made

under

plainone.
the

be

in the

stitches

the

keep

row

chain

rows

should

until
of

the

the
be

bag

circle

in three

50

CROCHET,

NETTING,

shades

good

scarlet, fire of each.

of

silk, interspersedwith
form

good

Form
and

star-bottom,

your

round

crochet

patterns in steel

it,

Work

beads.

dark

and

lightershade,

in

colour

until
stripes,alternately,
each

making

It will increase

one.

colour

the

to

the

form

Bag

stripes,crochet
the
six

above

the

both

ends

it upon

top, and

remainder

Star

Commence

round

the

der, working
A

second

completed,

the

preceding

working stripesto
stitches of each

Bottom
a

Finish

every

for

chain

togetherwith

two

consist

upon

suitable

work

may

bead

with

be

before, and,

as

patterns io beads.
of

rows

when

first and

Beads.

with

star -bottom

your

stripe

dividing line.

Another
Make

rows

second

bag

effect when

the

the

straightline, by crocheting two

the

vary

the

plain

of

rows

repeat the

of

coloured

stripelighterthan

successive

the

upon

one

four

first

four

colour

ground,

the

another

bag

previous instance,

Work

repeat

extremely

Beads.
the

beads.

to

p. 49.

at

in

look

to

with

as

on

gold

or

colour, and

in another
with

Bag

Crochet

shaded

plain colours,

in this

Illustration

in the

plain colours, as

found

introduced

be

may

of

rows

will be

contrast,

Beads

elegant.

few

Stripesof

of
the

the
or

other

Bag

ground

of
of

one

pattern within

three

of beads

instead

plain
form

to

rows,

boi"

stitch.

with

Beads.

eighty stitches, then

unite

crochet, aud

plain

work

AND

KNITTING,

row

all round.

row

hook

Make

both

loops

stitches, in order
should
is

be

the

increase

In

the

instead

of

nine

division

of

three

this

the

will

tenth

few

In

will

number

the

the

omitting
each

in

the

star

plain

rows,

so

of

will

the

will

in

each

length no

formed.

be

still

which

eleventh,

till at

on

be

first nine

bead

one

It

worked

are

plain stitch, after

twelfth, and

left,but

be

and

one,

it.

there

row,

two

stitch

upon

stitches

second

two

other

worked

seam

every

row,

making

Every

completed.

rows,

of the

crochet

is

upon

more

each

in

beads

bead

crochet

circle

the

and

one,

bead

other.

till the

work

rows

and

that

plain stitches

two

of

next

by insertingthe

one.

observe

to

above

one

instead

in the

stitch

formed

is

increase

to

plain crochet,

necessary

alternate

every

seam-stitch, which
under

51

EMBROIDERY.

adding

After
the

seam

stitch.
Ckochet

A
Form

crochet

one

until the

be

of the

You

this

in

stitch.

Finish

Plain

Crochet

six to

until

the cap

with

creasing
in-

inches

seven

be

it not

every

continue

plainrows

Should

ends, and

make

row

must

from

measures

round

second

the

the

cap

sufficiently
a

silk

lining

gold braid.
A
Provide

to

circle

the

stitch.

requireddepth.

large,increase
and

On

seam

Crochet

across.

Cap.

eight stitches, join

plainrow.

stitch

alternate

of

chain

Silk

the

yourselfwith

size of
your

the

Purse.

requiredquantity(according

purse) of middling

sized

netting silks,

52

CROCHET,

NETTING,

and

after

making

stitches, crochet
Then

often

stripesas
the

up

plain

two

stripeof

six

Handsome

very

with

chain

stitches, join both

Continue

one.

of

the

increase

of

two

following

two

colour.

cherry

before, then
of green,

two

the

commence

your
it

makes
next

you

row

made

row,

having

then

reverse

third-sized

no

the

the

Repeat

stitch

in the

beads,

plain

you

about

work

No.

should

down,

crochet

teen
four-

rows

in

green

as

stitch,

one

the

miss

of

the

be
Turn

rows

loop
stitch,

over

the

twenty-eightrows
1

be

row.

end
must

gold thread,
used.

gold,

gold, three

through

the

to

preceding

pattern.

netting silk

bead

of

work

of about

by doing

silk

commence

two

of

centre

needle, slipthe

equal,

all

row

Next

one

have

stitches

pattern of gold and

the

other

plain rows

two

size steel beads

of green,

rows

increase

gold, then

two

Repeat

eight

every

two

of

colour.

deep.

of

till you

row

row

and

green

Repeat

then

already on

stitch

draw

one)

crochet

stitch, by drawing the

the

rows

into

next
alternately,

light cherry

fifteen

or

In

side, and

plain row,

each

work

next

pretty pattern in moderate

which

these

silk

green

one

Then

gold thread

rows

of

rows

rich

in

stitches.

ninety

silk, and

in

stitches

two

(not increasingany),

make

Repeat

Purse.

ends, crochet

(that is by working

two

the

up

colour.

same

silk.

in shaded

rows

the

in

rows

twenty

ends.

Commence

the

hundred-and

one

crochet
requisite,

as

circle

of

chain

and

row.

the
back
and
the

An
Make

dark

then
it

Purse

of

chain

forwards

Easy

blue

two

repeat the plain rows

leavingsufficient

up,

Begin with
joined both

Short

ends,

length, when

each

work

side

sufficient

moderate

to

one

sized

hundred

Make

of

and

Short

four

Crochet

work

the

pattern, supposing

colour, and

gold

beads.

colour.

Let

the

in the

Work

the

bars.

hundred

one

row

third

fourth

the

for the

be

the

stitches,

first

stripeof

second

the

the

done

stripewith

of
same

pattern

ten

good contrasting

some

plain row

stripein

pattern in steel beads, with

and

stripes. Having

begin

stripe
work

in

with

another

Beads.

with

steel beads
it to be

next

Crochet
the

have

you

the purse

about

hundred

one

plain rows

with, and

commenced

beads.

with

rows

three

Purse

of

and

this, crochet

from

will take

exactly,and

till

depth of

is of

purse

thirty stitches.

chain

your

forwards

for the

rows

it

inches

two

the

divide

and

having

round, increasingwith

must

you

purse

stitches,and

this until

on

backwards

number

plain rows

silk, crochet

flat circle about

twist,

or

Purse.

and

have

with

opening.

of twelve

ronnd

until you

Crochet

sufficient

Crochet

work

five rows,

blue

dark

for the

space

the foundation

dividinglines
across.

of the

and

gold thread

of

rows

backwards

about

largehook)

silk, then

Beginners.

for

stitches, crochet

140

(with rather

53

embroidery.

and

knitting,

the

second

colour

in steel and

second

plain row

you

gold

colour, and
of the

second

54

NETTING,

colour
with
the

top and

at

the

of

last stitch

Plain
of

The

last stitch

of

the

fifth stitch

of

in the

along

same

same

plainin
then

the

loop

must

then

of the
the

of

of

and

in

the

colour

crochet

must

be

should

be

after

that

four

commenced

plain crochet
length :

The

the

colour.

of

worked

chain
and

second

few

You

open

the
row

may
second

crochet

pattern and
top

open
and

plain stitches.

Guard.

Watch

round
use

with

next

the

on

repeated alternately. The

Crochet
with

rows

Beads.

length of

the

beads

with.

the

colours

what

Steel

different
steel

the

to

required.

crochet

in

pattern

your

using

peated
re-

returned

Continue

row.

crochet

be

to

be

fifth stitch

size

selected, and

stitches

should

row

with

open

crocheted

be

the

purse,

Purse

the

of five stitches.

This

last

is the

purse

colour

ground,

sufficient

chain

chain.

main

row

colour

then

short

by linking every

alternate

Commence

plain

fifteen

fortystitches,to

foundation, and

the

the

work

bottom

latter

Crochet

work

in

parse

this

the

elegant

First

of

rows

Purse.

and

throughout

please until

An

four

with

Crochet

crochet

of each

process

you

begin again

the

conclude

hundred

one

manner

stitch

centre

Open

of which

all

formed

having

gold beads,

chain

this

After

first colour.

your

Form

bottom.

colour, and

first

pattern with

rows

CROCHET,

of

six

stitches, join it,and

round
size dark

until
brown

you

have
silk.

it

KNITTING.

Less
useful

than

is the
in

the

sister

an

increasing
amusing
to

which

occupation

other

It

to

is

certainly

of

kinds

that

Art,

study

when

beguile

to

fatigue

which

kind

Knitting
occupation

it of

the

give

to

its

cares,

results

from

pursuits,

perfection

various

the

producing

valuable

same

enough

sary
unneces-

that

fitted

of

useful

really

engage,

an

considerable

manual

of

sort

can

asserted

have

other

lady

this

as

by

quite

devoted

to

pages

any

describe

selection

the

perhaps

having

ladies

than

without

it is

do

we

as

marked

in

utility

to

for

these

Many

is, more

Living

indeed

is

which

apologize

work.

mind

and

less

not

described,

been

now

politicians frequently

regard

of

has

certainly

Knitting.

occupations,

number

in

of

which

age

which

art

art

utilitarian,

of

but

attractive, perhaps,

sight
and

it

does

and

embroidery.

indisposition

unfits

as

the

require

not

delicacy

attention,
of

of

recommendation

great

of

It

the

may
most

same

handling,

required

are

this

be

by

the
the

resorted

skilful

em-

KNITTING,

broiderer
of

the

be,

may

inaction
will

habits

with

interestingvolume
when

is, used
of

power

skill which

and

wrought,

at

filiallove,

produce
of

once

affection

the

vancing
ad-

render

various

mementos

as

skilful

more

activitywould

of

delightthe

knitting needle,

want

it may-

reallypainful. Friendship, and

always accept

of the

fit of ennui

often

the

when

an

it

remove

years

of

perusal
indeed

as

labour, and

produce

the

when

task, and

her

occupation would

accompany
it

continue

to

57

EMBROIDERY.

AND

that

the
gave

them.
The

Authoress

as

implying

to

the

that

invalid

the

Art

the

or

introduce
latter class.

by

its

It is

who

to

aged,

is said

to

in

only

will

maturely
pre-

into

the

is recommended
all states, from

who
have

was

its

been

early

its

ventor,
in-

wife
knitting house-

enthusiastic
needles

plies her

it

lady

and

Lady

understood

is suited

that

or

industrious

young

the

be

Knitting

all ages,

to

Royal

down

will not

pursuit which

indeed

and

patron,

of

the

adaptation

beautiful

the

she

hopes

the

wilds

of Con-

nemara.

It is unnecessary

to

enter

history of Knitting, which

various

known.
is to make

and

sources,

The
it

must,

main

more

may

minutely
be

object of

gathered

indeed, be very

from

rally
gene-

this little Volume

practicalcompanion
d

into the

to

the

Work-

58

CROCHET,

NETTING,

Table

give
We

;
as

and

in furtherance

many

examples

shall therefore

meaning

of

of that
as

at

different

the

to

permit.

explain the

to

once

wish

we

will

limits

our

proceed

view,

in

employed

terms

Knitting.

DEFINITION

TERMS

OF

IN

EMPLOYED

KNITTING.

To

form

Foundation

the

for

Knitting, usually

called
CASTING

Put

left

the

material
then

hand,

lowest

of the

oif, passing it
off

both
formed
same

the

loops

thumb

under

other

loop

and

stitch

first

the

and

it

drawing
thus

is

stitches

other

the

knit

and

thumb,

the

of

in the

way.

Knit

two

the

drawing

and

the

The

needle,

the

knitting pin

on

the

over

CASTING

to

the

thumb.

the

on

round

twice

place
two

ON,

the

tie

last
a

OR

OFF,

first

stitch

over

form

and

stitches

draw

needle.

them

second,

the

into

and

material

the

so

one,

by

continue

through

it

knot.

CASTING

Turn

FINISHING.

the

material

OVER.

you

are

using

round

the

59

EMBROIDERY.

AND

KNITTING,

NARROWING

is

knitting two

stitches

into

one.

WIDENING.

This
so

is done
form

to

as

either

by

stitches

two

splittingthe

material

into

in

round

patterns, by throwing the material

as

described

TO

Bring
and

in

above

FORM

the

knit

the

needle,

SEAM-STITCH.

material

the

to

into

stitch,and

the

fancy

casting over.
THE

put the needle

or

one,

the

turn

front

next

the

of

the

needle,

stitch,downwards

material

back

again.

RIB-KNITTING

is to
two

knit

and

rows,

TO

is

two

stitches, and

to

or

knit

pearl two.

BRING

MATERIAL

THE

it to

bringing

pearl two,

front

the

FORWARD

of the

needle.

PEARLING.

This
stitch

is done

exactly

passing

without

in the

seam-

above.

is

described

as

stitch

knitting it.

SLIP-STITCH

from

one

needle

to

the

other

i30

crochet,

netting,

is formed
the

LOOP-STITCH

needle,

and

material

the

by bringing

it in the

dropping
TAKING

is

downward

row.

UNDER

needle

putting the

next

of

front

the

to

at

in

stitch

of the

back

the

direction.

EXAMPLES.

A
Cast

Scarf,

on

knit
row

same

then

the

each

preceding

colours

fancy

as

stitch

same

needles.

16

proceed

manner,

of

On

middling

in

finished

is worked
but

the

in the

repetition

introduce

may

one;

as

many

direct, by working in stripes. The

well

adapted

for

purse

if

knitted

every

stitch.

end.

Comforter.

sized

knitting carry

knitting,and
the

make

row,

being

row

three-thread

have

you
which

next,

You

one.

for

First

successive

may

is

the

to

with

silk.

with

and

stitches

together alternatelytill

two

No.

Quilt.

Cradle

or

of

number

any

fleecy,using

Shawl,

pin

your

The

if desired

cast

material

comforter
may

have

thirty-sixstitches,

on

twice

is to
a

be

round
done

fringeand

the

pin

in double

border

at

Another
Cast
backwards
stitches
be

and
from

found

Comforter.
and

knit

plain sixty ribs,

after

that

take

thirty stitches,

on

forwards

the

middle

left from

side, and

of the

end.

each

off.

You

work

your

is

have

the

the

the

silk

No.

use

end

of the
In

the

same

back

this

in

and

case

fours, and

bring

the

pass

again, and

The

the

same.

number

the
No.

the

of

the

forward

pearl

silk
one,

second, and

the

knit
this

before
the

on

the

should

row

two

holes

stitches
used.

and

the
bias.

(which
and

every

be

must

counted

In

the

first

row

slip one,

then

knit

one

this

knit

one

it.

over
slip-stitch

bring

knit

can

Purse.

needles

18

material

forward, then
row.

and

always plain.

rows

Herringbone

In

then

Continue

second

row

bring

to

the

"

The

third

For

slipone,

them.

row.

that

needles.

19

forward, and

pattern is commenced,
the

the end

up

of stitches

slip-stitchover

plain knitting.

Repeat

before, and

as

sew

number

any

threes, and

bring

to

process
be

in

passing

two,

this, form

Purse.

Knitted

Begin by castingon

first row,

ribs
to

will

twenty-one

completed.
A

be counted

merely

now

twenty-two

done

Having

chest-piece,by knitting twenty-two

fasten

61

embroidery.

and

knitting,

After

should

continue

be
to

second
the

succeedingrow,

end

sized)
of the

is worked

62

netting,

Open
Use

No.

Stitch

Purse

silk

forward,

be

brought

now

needle.

be

must

and

for the

on

the
third

bead, and

the

as

knit

one,

continue

as

Patterns

Checked

casting on

counted

in

first rows,

knit

depends

No.

Knit

each.

four

take

then

must

two

first round.

The

needle.

the

For

must

be

other

round

that,

as

pearled ;

many

until

and

you

rounds

the

forward, pass

that

four

for the

four

four

ceeding
suc-

of your

wish

you

be

can

for the

coarseness

to

terial
ma-

make.

into

the

on

cap

stitches

cast

two

each

of these
once

stitch
each
wide

be knitted

You

for this.

necessary

centre

widen

must

the beads

Children's

round, widen

find

second

row.

knit

and

them

plain stitches

third

is

row

Cap.

will be

second

The

of stitches

or

article

of

that, knit

silk

pearl four

Night

needles

16

done

"c.

and

and

the

upon

threaded,

till the

Mats,

fineness

A
Five

first

four

four

The

ones.

in the

number

eights,pearl
and

the

bring

silk must

first,leaving out

bring

on

bead

pattern.

D'Oyleys,

any

cast

one,

The

process

for

Socks,
After

and

other

every

same

knit

row

Having

the

repeat

silk,

together.

again,

finished, placinga bead

row

first

two

forward
the

middle-sized

the

knit

and

together,

two

and

it behind

placing

for

Beads.

with

needles, and

18

seventy stitches,then
the

crochet,

on

upon
each

side

for the
each
needle

of it every

enough.

plainas

on

After

will make

64

NETTING,

CROCHET,

Raised

To
No.

accomplish this,
and

12;

require,so
with

the
in

two

having

that

the

small

knitting with
with

same

in the

This

the
the

and

is

wool
two

cast

border, with

for the

plain,and

rows

knit

forward, and
should
row

be

knit

rows

to

forms

twenty-four

piece to
the

for

Knit

four

must

be

back,

plain

forward, knit
must

12

the

third

two

then
run

the

the

sewn

through it,to

to

three

and

the
the

rows

seventh

together.

two

with

plain

two

This

commencement.

Next

the

first
wool

next

the

in

finish

the

commence

forty-fourstitches.

on

fifth

make

German

bring

knit

head.

The

in white

row

and

rows,

together,finish
be

making

for muffs.

The

and

by casting

rows.

before.

as

needles, knit

in blue

with

over

go

stitches

No.

forward,

correspond

band

This

wool

the

be

row

in

employed

together.

two

the

row

Cap.

plain knitting

bring

Then

for

plain

again

pattern

especiallysuitable

ninety-four

on

of

fourth

row

knit

Commence
the

be

you

first

third

the

needle.

Bonnet

Having

the

Let

may

as

consist

and

continue

knitting

articles,and

various

should

row

one

stitch, then

one

needle.

row,

of

make

small

stitches

equal, begin the

large needle,

the

needles, and

18

many

as

be

first

small

fourth

style

on

second

pearl knittingwith
as

cast

needle

No.

two

use

number

The

one.

Knitting.

bring

row,

with
front

four

wool

plain

piece.

it fit the

the

head.

rows.

ribbon

KNITTING,

AND

Sable

Use

No.

resemblingsable
three

shade

second
knit

Continue

before.

of the
row

these

needle

with
and

lined

tassels

other

in

to

No.

some

coarse

pass

needles, and

Every
and

cast

begin the

second

for the

knit

alternate

fourth

row

end

row

same

is of

of

rows

filled w'th

wool

cords

and

equally well

You

Any

as

and

fleecyforward
Continue

should

be
at

three

about

needles,

in

first.

this

fine

then

by knitting

row

of the

in

must

pieces of

the

again.

one

Muff

Squirrelfur.

plain rows.

two

short

other

another

sixty-sixstitches

on

fleecy into

the

end

Mat.

piece of fleecy between

stitch
the

knit

long, and

inches
jay

needles,

cord, and

cotton
cut

1 1

the

to

with

the

together

number

looks

imitate

Knitted

Use

at

introduced.

be

fancy-stitch
may

with

forward,

two

till the

finished

be

first

row

wool

knit

be

pattern

colours

stone

then

may
This

ends.

the

next

on

nearly

downwards

equal

should

silk, and

with

at

knitted

It

colour.

each

Knit

again, and

repeat this

length desired, knitting an

the

used.

last stitches

two

plain rows

fourth

the

as

same

as

shade,

forward, and

three

Knit

row.

the

Insert

the wool

bring

be

brown,

stitch, bring the

one

together.

two

back, then
as

knit

dark

the

Cast

fleecy.

of

should
possible,

as

plain with

rows

shades

good

Three

stitches.

84

Muff.

four-thread

needles, and

65

EMBROIDERY.

two

knit

between

out.
through-

plain knitting,

G6

CROCHET,

NETTING,

A
After
and

casting

No.

knit

and

row,

and

one,

again, and

one

the

ninety stitches

on

bring

all the

forward

the

wool,

slipa

and

it,

over
slip-stitch

Continue

pearl one.

work

German

with

needles, bring the wool

13

stitch, then
knit

Scarf.

in

followingrows

of

end

the

to

the

same

manner.

Brioche.
This
and

handsome

as

they near

as

the

of four-thread

No.

in

finishes

the

the

material
and

together twice,
of

more

time

every
within
will
the

widest

the

When

you

top
you

must

of the

found

and
have

knit

at

the

You

part.

stripein black,
at

additional

stitches
be

now

and

black,

the
two

two

turning ;

as

knitting

then

must

then

of

bottom
then

continue

finished
it to the

the
first

and

two

last wide

to

come

you

The

wool

stripe,which

begin another

till the

narrow

stitches

two

turn.

the

before, knittingthe
so

this

repeat this, taking

stitches, until
top, and

two

stripeby

these

knit

turn

then

black

the coloured

Work

forward,

in

then

ninety

on

turns,

again

two

by

and

by casting
two

with

is worked

stitch

claret,knit

stripe.

narrow

wool, and

slipping one,

Begin

and

gold colour,

bringing

two

dark

or

The

it either

make

can

German

forward,

together.

in black

turns

double

narrow,

decreasinggradually

You

pins.

material

knitting two

latter

centre.

or

wooden

bringing the

stitches

top

fleecy,or

ivory or

the
stripes,

broad

many

is composed of sixteen

cushion

black

two

whole
or

narrow

stitches

is finished.

conical

stripe.

is

stripe,

will

2-thread
four

ribbing

knit

stitch
the

and

cast

last stitch

knit

the

stitch
rib the
thus

the

at

rounds

increased

will

end

and

of

stitch

each

eleven
and

over

together,

cast

knit

needles
add

to

one

needle, and

these

one

over,

other

each

to

rounds

two

stitches

seventeen

you

round,

have

remember

round

each

give

and

of

one

together,knit

of the

plain,but

beginning

centre

stitch

of

and

alternate

stitches

two

one

on

each

stitch, cast

first

stitches

repeat this

next

two

the

3, and

or

beginning

till you

two

knit

over,

on

every

this, knit

stitch, knit

centre

stitches

always,

knit

now

stitch, repeat

one

rib the

each

on

the

at

needle

stitch

long, No.

five

on

of each

centre

very

stitch

one

end

the

stitches

add

the

at

Cast

fleecy.

needles

stitch

needles,

require 5

fine

Shawl.

Square

Shetland
You

6/

embroidery.

and

knitting,

each

on

needle.

Now

knit

the

first

stitch, cast

repeat this twice, then

rib

the

together,knit
the last stitch
the

next

needle
knit

another

Now

twice,
knit

cast

two

add

one,

first
the

other

and

stitches

cast

and

and

knit

same

two

the
as

the

on

knit

twice, knit
needles

stitch

centre

stitch

each
one,

stitch, and
first

two

centre

together,knit

centre

ther,
toge-

last stitch of each

ribbed

twenty-one
over

two

three

plain,still ribbing the

together,rib

stitches,the

the

the

on

this

repeat

over,

stitch,

one

together, knit

two

plain,except

now

over

cast

on

round

knit

knit

repeat all this

rest

will have

you

ten

round
the

and

one

knit

together,knit

two

and

centre

knit

and

over

;
;

needle.

repeat this

together,

two

do

repeat this

the
on

last
the

68

NETTING,

other

three

needles;

remembering
before, and
will

these

stitches

two

stitch

one

needle

number

the

and

beginning

twelve

stitches
each

on

work

leaves

Proceed

adding on
four

the

four

cast

over

the

next

together

rounds

will

it is

directed

add

to

perceive that

to
;

form

you

as

the

by adding

five additional

needle.

thus

after

"

stitch

one

times, rib the

then

the

on

knit

centre

and

one

stitch

last spare

and

plain knitted, adding

in

the
the

on

on

end

needles

have

you

of

each

plain rounds,
each

begin
:

do

side

of

to

form

this

twenty

have

and

made

twenty-five

your

another

always

as

your

needle

you

and

add

to

calculate

always

centre

of

plain rounds,

two

that

therefore

stitches

of your

pattern consists

above, and

must

each

be

the

pattern stitches, you

at

one

stage of your

knit

over,

to

stitch*

centre

of each

end

times,

square

must

twenty -five stitches

when,

four

will have

stitches

four

together

stitches, knitted

that

each

and

produce

the
this

of each

end

before.

ribbing as
You

at

stitch, cast

times, and

two

you

twenty-fivecentre

two

two

work,

as

by adding

the
to

in

and

over;

at

pattern from

stitch

first spare

times, knit

two

order

of it, which

spare

the

stitch, knit

five

you

with

for your

your

each

requiredfor

one

in

round,

side

needle.

each

on

as

rounds

two

regularly increased

enlarge the shape (square)of

count

these

of stitches

be

alternate

every

stitches

seven

must

the

at

stitch

plain,

last stitches

and

first

centre

rounds

two

twenty-five, and

namely,

"

next

the

the

the

now

the

on

twenty-

have

pattern,

rib

to

knit

add

to

give you

You

CROCHET,

on

pattern
the

same

KNITTING,

round

centre, and

pattern
is

and

three

remember

it

fiftystitches
then

with

plain rows,
rows

of the

cast

over,

back

these

and

at

the
a

run

edge

ribbon

When

the

thread

which

look

Any light
if

quickly

five

of the
cord

stitches

cast

stitches

these

the

stitches

No.

rib

opposite

off, sew

cast

the

through

stitch,

one

end, and

fiftyloops on

with

five

twenty

two

the

to

requires cleaning,if

confines

knit

on

rows,

knit
knit

together,knit

up

plain

then

over,

part knitted

1 1

holes

in the

you

draw

these

needles,
centre.
out

the

wash

well

and

substituted

for

pieces,it

will

new.

open

pattern

preferred;

but

be

may

this

is

very

pretty

one,

the
and

done.

Shetland

Two

fringe

Cast

five

needles, and

or

piece and

another

or

ruff

quitelike

above

off,take

cast

row,

yard

wool.

cord

or

stitches

side, knit just such

down

to No.

two

together ; repeat
the

ribbon

following pattern
knit

German

needles, knit

1 1

for

change

with

As

Neck.

the

double

No.

of holes

row

for

fleecyor

super

least

at

finished

be

added

like.

you

be

the

preferred.

as

Ruff
Fine

size

any

requires to

should

quarters, and

scallopededge,

to

in each

stitch

centre

thus

on

go

Shawl,

square

rib

pattern in

the

work

you

to

must

you

this

or

that

(the third)

69

EMBROIDERY.

AND

thread
thus

fleecy.
:

Scarf.

Needles

forty-two on

each

No.

2.

of

three

Cast

on

14/

needles, and

70

NETTING,

twenty-one
needle

to

Knit

knit

two,

knit

one,

these

work

five

fourth

with

three

knit

"

on

CROCHET,

knit

over,

stitches

twenty-one

cast

one,

all

thus

first round

together,knit

two

together,knit three,

two

cast

all.

then

plain rounds,

stitches, knit

knit

in

another

have

must

you

five needles

"

four

or

needle

knit

two

round, then

over,

together,

two

knit

over,

cast

one,

repeat

knit

plain

round.
Second

round

thus

together, knit

two

knit

knit

one,

knit

round

slippedstitch
knit

over,

stitch
knit

thus

over,

Fourth

knit

thus

knit

cast

over,

two

together, knit

knit

one,

knit

knit

one,

cast

over,

knit

one,

knit
one,

knit

thus

two

knit

one,

round

knit

over,

knit

over,

two,

knit
cast

cast

over,

together,

thus"

and
knit

five,cast

five,cast

over,

plain round.

over,

knit

one,

knit

one,

two,

cast

knit

knit
knit

two,

one,
a

two

cast

knit
over,

together;

plain round.

knit

over,

two

together,knit three,

two

knit

over,

together, knit

two

repeat this all round,

Sixth

knit

"

knit

together,pullthe

together, knit three, knit

repeat this all round, and

together,

two

over,

two

cast

then

cast

one,

over,

together,pull the slipped-

and

knit

"

cast

cast

plain round.

one,

two

knit

knit

one,

three,

one,

knit

knit

knit

one,

two

round

knit

slipone,

"

slipone,

round

Fifth

knit

repeat all round,

two;

together, knit

three;

then

them,

them,

over

cast

knit

and

over

one,

two

together, knit

over,

repeat all round,

Third

one,

two

cast

one,

knit

"

three,
knit

one,

three,

cast

knit

two

two

over,

cast
gether,
to-

knit

together ;

plain round.
cast

over,

knit

five, cast

72
them

over

one

back

in

all, giving you

plain row

the

at

of the

sized

different
of the

six
the

face

needles

knit

with
cord

take

Now

wool

knit
and

white,

row,

knit

one

if you

at

wool

and

on

side

one

to

the
then

of holes

for

with

the

rows

two

each, alternately

rows

stitch

following fancy
together

two

stitch

the

row,

three

back

any

be

to

by casting

these

substitute

may

to

form

each

end

this

will

twenty

be
is

of

is

row

First

"

taken
wool

the

stitches

light open

cap,

knitted

the

you

needle

your

derneath,
un-

quite
end

the

to

knitted

always

for this

stitch

rows,

sloped

stitches
and

joining each
sides

the

of

the

ten

two

front

both

row,

doing

backwards

decrease

must

every

after

give you,

eighteen

knitting,to

the

only twenty

rows,

must

times, that
on

five

rows,

and

ribbed

row

two

prefer it.

back

stitches

the

repeat

Second

You

stitches

or

one

rows

inwards

and

on

white

ivhite

loops

one

the

on

of the

roll

do

ribbed

nineteen

the

it may

rows,

two

make

Remember,

and

of

needle

row.

plain.

hundred

stitch, knit

and

of the

one

patterns, of

ten

blue

your

with

rib two

white

five

alternatelyplain

rows

stripeof

pieces

two

have

that

the

first.

at

as

so

is three

that

another

Then

up

ribbon, and

or

white

five

blue

the

over

off.

cast

do

rib the

row,

besides

rows

and

till you

piecejust done,

of the

then

repeat these

needles

blue,

large

eighteen
;

the

twice,

rows

above, "c,

as

stitch

fancy

six

beginning

fine needles

the

these

of

end

the

to

repeat

Repeat

row.

times

CROCHET,

NETTING,

patterns

these

twenty

forwards
side
cap

as

nine
you

when

go

you

"have knitted

Now
all

take

back

holes for the

cap is

over

end, and

and

then

knit

in the

Two-thread
needles.

first

to

have

stitches
other

to

done
in

end

and

to

on

before

the end

the

going

the

back

leave

or

the

continue
end

of

to knit

the

to make

cast

off

the

in

to the

ribbon

hinder

turn

of the
or

stitches
is the

row

then

knit

needle

together;
When

same.

only sixty-six
the

at

at

front

whole

of the

back, draw
for the

stitches

the

first

left,

length

twenty-fourstitches,

other
the

Now

rows.
fifty-six

pattern the

front

two
forty-

cord

for

the

twenty-fourrows

rows

the

quite round
two

following:

twenty-fourthstitch

knit

of the

the

as

No.

twenty-four

twenty-fourstitches

needle, includingthe

loosely;

knit

give you forty-twostitches,middle

returningcontinue

in

of your

run

border,

wool

such

it,then rib

back

this will

the

German

wool

twenty-fourrows,

stitches,which
knit

of

row

Hood.

pattern,

stitch,turn

bring it

repeat this
you

piece,

cord, and

or

ninety stitches,

on

lightopen

any

slipthe
as

knit

short

ribbon

double

fleecy or

Cast

of

so

front

complete.
Opera

rows

of the

end

one

other

run

work

bring your

the

to

ribbon

fall

to

loops from

the

up

will

off.

slopedsides, cast

along the

curtain,

which

eighteenrows,

the

with

even

7^

EMBROIDERY.

AND

KNITTING,

back,

to

draw

hood, and

in the

edges
and

crown,

the hood

in

part of the head.

Fringe.

This

may

be

made

of

silk, cotton,
E

or

wool,

as

you

74

NETTING,

choose

and

the

stitches,

two

cast

two

you

require,cast

the

fringe.

wound
or

cast

knit

over,

together,knit

inches

in

Set

then

knit

last stitch

the

entire

each

on

other

every

You

may

Now

raised

with

third

knit

the

at

of

end

of your

shoe, and
open

each

side, which, added

holes

for

as

you

to

ribbon,

rib

two

two

do
at

without
needle
decrease
do

the

just the
off.

two

prefer;

rib
fifty-three
;
a

work

with

on

forty-five

off

cast

stitch

then

cast

end

then

another
;

needles,

stitches,will make

(that is
on

one

stitch

one

have

four

middle

row

take

either

ankle

the

to

return

stitches, and

of your

loops on

and

till you

now

other

side
the

back

twenty-sixrows

ten

to

add

plain row,

plain rows

;)

required.

regularly one

row

stitches

twenty

make

three

Boots.

one

add

-two

other
knit

colours

about

steel needles

fine

twenty

row

for the

same

do

stitches

sixteen

length

in two

colour

or

eight stitches

knit

stitches, and

sixteen

six to form

throughout, adding

row.

added

unravel

stitches, turn

row

every

; now

more

any

or

back

end

stitches

two

the

each

stitches, knit

seven

next

the

knit

over,

knitted

Shoes

fleecyand

knit
the

stripesof

High

twenty-seven

stitch, and

well

gether,
to-

knitted

and

stitches

stitches

two

length each.

two-thread

on

have

you

fringelooks

Babies'
Fine

when

in

knit

stitches,

ten

on

together,cast

off four

This

Cast

and

over,

large or small,

wool, say one-thread

for

6 needles.

two

together,or

four

used

No.

either

be

must

material

will need

fleecy,you
knit

needles

your

according to

CROCHET,

the

needles,
take

thirteen

rows,
more

up

then
rows.

AND

KNITTING,
Knit

the

three

to

ankle

five stitches

being all white,

to

coloured

high

fanciful

wash
wool

inches

various

at

and

more

light,and

four

least

at

its

be

ones

better

in nine

knit

No.

and

succession
four

by
will

very

stitches

Neck

Tie

than

with

well made

No.

the

any

must

each

knit six

rows

may

repeat them

larger.

When

Tassel

finish

it.

in white

and

required to
only,or

and

edge

shades

these

done, you

Chenille

in white

of

in

return

you

shaded

on

shade

set

cast-off

as

use

Cast

2.

One

and

lightestshade,

of

rows

jointhe

is

wool

lightness,
you

even

lightest.

Tie

Neck

edge together.
of the

better

"

pretty size

loose, and

off very

its

on

darkest, of which
the

to

rows

preferthe

1
ten

the

to

make

with

those

of German

plain knitting four

in

and

warm

Tie.

shades

depends

large needles,

and

ferred
pre-

many

in them.

beauty much

hundred

by
very

are

than

shoes,

These

leg,are

they

perhaps

knitted

one

the

from

add

high, and

intervals.

up

Neck
To

7^

EMBROIDERY.

if

cast

must

the
for

you

cast-on

each

This

end
looks

pretty

some

colour.

Netting

This

be

should

braid, and
knit three

No.
or

four
knit

one,

cast

knit

plain,rib

over,

thirtytimes,

12

the

then

knitted

Stirrup.

with

scarlet

Cast

needles.

plain rows,

together to

two

back
knit

then

rows

three

;
or

on

eleven

slipone
the last

repeat

four

worsted, French
stitches,

stitch

knit

stitch,which

these

plainrows,

two

and

rows

cast

76

NETTING,

This

off.

the

wood
half

inches

with

ribbon.

knit

of the

width

1, and

one

then
and

Tidy,

needle

stitches
rib

knit

four

one

stitches
row

yard

ends

the

to

in

top

off

be

To

done

in fine

shape

of this

time, till you

at

to

knit

then

row,

do

and

it round

stitch

the

knit

one

stitch, and
is

the

from

entire

decrease

have

the

No.

stitch.

every

knitted

fringe.

No.

18

the
row

again.

knit

of

two

plain

stitch.

on,

stitches

stitches

twenty-two
So

wool

your
one

then

round, is produced

top by

two

needles.

plainrow,

throughout. Bring

only

Rib

D'Oyley.

wool, with

one

cotton

the

it

with

D'Oyley, which

have

with

4.

plain

the

end.

repeatedtill you

German

by gradually decreasing

the

over

Nervous

needle, slip

your

twice

trim

No.

three

cast

"

plain

stitches, and

followingfancy

before

knit

be

or

twenty-two

on

row

together to
"

pair No.

one

needles, knit

11

cotton

must

rows

Fancy

one

covered

knittingcotton

use

Second

row.

two

Cast

square.

No.

on

Fourth

row.

These

for

and

Anti-Macassar.

or

3, and

No.

needle, passing the

The

about

two

of

stitches, and

knittingneedles"

requirethree

110

on

third

the

the

three
be

three

ribbon

piece

about

made

sew

thin

must

on

have

must

Pillow

will

Cast

to

wood

cast

with

lined

stirrup.

rows,

ends

of

must

plain till you

you

and

knitting,and

piece

you

which

You

over,

the

this

Now

Sofa

Cast

the

Sew

of

long ;

row

every

length, of

colour.

of the

stretched

be

piecemust

match

to

CROCHET,

thus

left

stitches

forming

these

first and

This

the

at

top

then

shades.

It

of

number
have

must

D'Oyleys

invalids

to

are

though

cotton,

wool,
No.

fine

or

highly polished

on

and

"c.

vases,

they

are

prefer

cotton,

bright claret

in fine white

generallymade

are

German

or

colour.

following pattern requiresten

you

must

the

size

less

of

Needles,

size

rows

stitches
knit

end

knitted

if

only,is

of

over,

very

three
the

plain.

and
row.

it

which

stitches

consists

determining
will
ten

First

the

pull
over

Second

row

or

and

looks
knit
knit

one,

back

over

repeated

are

row

is

ing
follow-

slipped one

these

stitches

thus"

stitches, slip

three

make

of the

simple,easilydone,

and

cast

in

larger,add

purpose.

knit

together,

Fifty

wish

you

for this

well

stitch, cast

them,

stitches, therefore

of stitches

D'Oyley.

your

remarkably

two

number

spoilthe pattern,

would
two

the

calculate

pretty useful

the

is

D'Oyleys.

persons

fleecy,of

white

noise.

save

some

by knittingit

or

6.
The

one

the

endlessly

fringe:

narrow

flower

and

square,

almost

varied

used

Dessekt

These

by joining

colours,

much

are

tables, placed underneath

to

round

this.

generallypreferredfor

valuable

off

cast

be

pattern D'Oyley may

These

made

edges together.

last

by introducingany
in

have

stripesor Vandykes, till you

piece pointed

77

EMBROIDERY.

AND

KNITTING,

to

to

be

78

NETTING,

CROCHET,

Fancy

You

will

require four

wool.
must

you
and

pretty

over,

knit

two

over,

knit

one

and

over

must

be

third

rounds

stitch

stitch

the

repeated to
be

"c.

cuff is

These

deep

as

hand

and

if

edge,

cast-on

and

turn

to

knit

needles
Cast

wool.

similar

and

knit

of every

three

round

knit

you

stitch

at

round

one

are

followinground

to

next

No.

round

Second

three

and
the

at

as

together,

repeated till the

off

it is

or

rounds

forming

roll at the

loops of

the

up

provement
im-

an

plain on

on

17,

and

fine

each

of

three

the

stitch

rib

rounds

two

rounds

the

on

German

needles,
the

at

rounds

rib two

stitches

rib two

stitch

one

of every

plain,and

plain ;

pattern, and

piece.

increase

the back

add

the

Hat.

stitches

rounds

stitch in the

again one
and

three

on

one,

be

take

may

wanted,

are

together,knit

twelve

up,

cast
cast

stitches

cast
or

wool

your

round.

to

thus

then

forms

are

ten

Baby's
Four

two

of the

like, you

you

cast

more,

knitting two

knit

to

proceed

together twice,

this

rounds

larger needles,
;

round,

two

wish, then

you

needles,

of two

plain. Begin again

and

perhaps
rather

end

knitted

three
as

each

repeat this twice

first,by casting over

"c.

knit

together ;

two

to

First

man
fine Ger-

fore
stitches, there-

needle, and

together, knit

two

knit

over,

third

together,

knit

cast

the

on

1 8, and

sixteen

thirty-twoon

on

more

and

new

of No.

needles

pattern includes

cast

sixteen
a

"

The

Cuff.

back

increase

next

round,

the

each

needle

after

this

next

you

the
are

80

knitted

them

colour, and
This

six

of

the

just

one

stitch

in

this

repeat

rounds

round,

thread
all

through
and

fasten

Complete

Stitch

be

counted

in

taking
the

end

No.

10

of

on

Shawl

threes, bring the

them

the

the

at

row,

and

of

work

every

fourth

it

pass

and

cord

tassel

with.

"c.

which

stitches

forward, knit

wool

back, and

four

the

ther,
toge-

Repeat

slipone.
row

may

same.

to

Use

needles.

made

be
or

D'Oyleys,
rows.

number

these

the

wool,

Shawl,

you

together tightly,

with

cap

of

row

"

round

pattern of

your

them

knitted

for

any

Vandyke

Broad

To

the

have

you

Fancy

cast

with

stitches, draw

wool

Having

last

or

needle

rug

the

the

round,

round

(Remember,

whole

the

mean

third

or

stitch.

other
to

next

the

decrease

fourth

the

on

up.

repeat

must

you

turn

oppositeside

the

on

crown

the

is to

one

loosely.

very

needles, and

stitch

In

next

off.

match

fourth

referred
the

the

off

and

cap,

three

form

every

In

rounds.)

with

pattern.

here

the

sixty loops

up

every

this

cast

stripesof

seven

or

"

front of

to

decrease

must

other

done

pattern all round

one

times

the

by taking

the

to

thirteen

piece forms

Proceed

to

CROCHET,

NETTING,

large

on

Scarf;
"c.

First

in
Cast

front

row,

and

needles

cotton
on

Border.

five
knit

and

fine

fleecy,if

smaller

stitches, knit
two

stitches,

needles

for

for

three

plain

cast

over,

AND

KNITTING,
knit

three

stitches

the first and

last

front
cast

above.
knit

knit

knit

knit

cast

over,

cast

knit

above.
knit

four
This

front

stitch

one

will

width;

repeat this

double

knit

the

other

which

knit

have

ribbed

rows

as

only
and

will

you

stitches

begin again.

directed

be

gether
to-

above-

as

good

you

To

and

The
the
2

of

knit

the

the
as

rows

back

the

twice

or

knit
rows

Vandykes,

knit

over,

take

left ; then

throughout
e

two

directed.

as

once

case

front

knitting the
five

over,

stitch twice,

one

stitches

three

casting over,

continue

plain ;

half

without

knit

as

width

any

together,cast

left, in which

singlestitches

knit

will

it to

row

cast

row

two

Vandyke, proceed thus

within

plain;

Back

over,

stitches,

the

two

are

you

always

together

you

of

stitch, knit

one

together, till

four

half

knit

over,

Back

stitches,

two

cast

and

add

the
finishing

by

cast

stitches, and

to

row

knit

front

stitches.

two

stitches,

easily increase

may

knit

gether,
to-

repeat this

two

stitches.

two

sixteen

give you

over,

Fourth

one

row,

cast

stitches

stitches.

two

knit

prefer by continuing

make

this

repeat

row,

times, knit

you

front

times, knit

Sixth

knit

over,

one,

directed

as

two

above.

as

row

Fifth

one

three

knit

over,

together twice,

two

above.

as

together

cast

stitches, cast

knit

over,

knit

over,

stitches,

two

cond
Se-

plain.

always

row,

knit

Back

two.

two

row

Back
row,

this

repeat

row,

front

knit

stitches, cast

to

three.

Third

one

Back

knit

excepting

ribbed,

be

to

row

stitches, which

two

row,

over,

back

81

EMBROIDERY.

"

two

end,
have

first two

other

two

above

till

three
are

which

and
to

be

you

82

CROCHET^

NETTING^

to
alternately,

Trimming

length

any

Border

or

be

careful
with

to

trim

three

patterns

over,

you

must

as

whatever

The

cast

"

article

which

knit

rib

cast

over,

one

knit

the

at

succession

knit

third

off

First

German

border

as

one

row

eleven

together
rib

is

as

two

deep

then

one

rib

more,
are

you

to

times, and
and

various
you

times

rows,

as

one

twenty

many

three

rows

two

begin
in

rows

require it

loosely.
Size

wool

end

of

repeating these

of

the

Baby's

for

and

No.

twenty-four stitches, knit

stitch at the

rib

over,

together,knit

end

row,

row,

till your

cast

knit

one

take

stitch, rib

one

two

two

stitches

two

will

required length gives you

and

row,

stitch

one

the

repeat these

wide,

pattern of the Escallop

row,

to

wish

you

twenty-three stitches, knit

on

Third

you

respond
exactly cor-

sixty-ninestitches

is

on.

your

then

then

Use

so

repeat these

row,

of

will

as

many

eight stitches,rib

knit

back

be

"c.

sixty-ninestitches,

and

as

Scarf

your

on

stitches

again

Ends

the

for

together,knit eight stitches, cast

cast

to

if

plain.

stitches

knit

Escallops

on

width

follows

as

rows

three

cast

the

cast

is done
two

to

thus,

must

you

require.

Scarf,

decreasing

pattern requires twenty-three stitches,

the

must

increasingand

you

of

of

As

thus

producing, by

on

go

may

three

third

row

16

Shoe.

needles.

plain
;

knit

rows,
two

Cast

adding
more

on

one

plain

AND

KNITTING,

adding again

rows,

five

form

rows

off

cast

fourteen

have

till you
stitches

nine

side

of the

and

cast

rows,

knit

Take

centre,

rib

two

rows,

knit

shoe

put

nine

more

Baby's

one

or

ten

Boot

will

part, and

when

for

stitches, knit sixteen

on

the

the
this

sixteen
will

knit
of
two

every

loops

give

on

you

row

till you

between

continue

tie

wish

you

edges

two

throughout,

have

on

third

stitches

on

one

row,

decrease

two

knit

knitting;
needles

your

stitch
;

needle,

and

your

knitting two
these

stitches

second

all

eighty stitches

sixteen

more

the

of

Slipper

on

needle,

side

decrease

Cast

fourteen

on

and

for the

wool

cast-on

ninety

to

after this

the

ribbon,

Foot.

Stocking.

on

the

stitches in the middle

for

row

sew

plain

two

Slipper

the

German

ridges,set

ridges, then

seven

on

the

stitches

fourteen

and

side, and

knit

one

needle, thirty stitches

same

before,

each

on

to the

like

require coloured
white

added

holes

off,

other

holes.

look

to

the

ridges,according as

high, cast

in the

Stocking
You

of
knit

row,

just cast off;

you

needle

row

fourteen

on

form

to

loops

top of the ankle

the

set

that

one

one

rib

less

or

ribbon

on

make

plain row,
to

all

ridges and

have

decrease

fourteen

these

remaining stitches

you

way

row

nine

the

those

same

up

the

togetherfrom
and

with

the

in

last

ridges, then

then

in

one

your

heel

the

knit

knit

more

ridges,and

of

Now

stitches

seven

off.

are

you

heel.

correspond

to

knit

seven

the

end

tbe

at

83

EMBROIDERY.

at

now

the

end

decrease

plain stitches
stitches

for

84

NETTING,

heel, and

the
have

for

them

cast

the

for
knit

plain

taking

forward
the

knit
After

having

loops

on

continue
made

side

in the

ankle

holes

for

plain knitting,or
stitches

ribbed,

Perhaps

the

Make
the

holes

shoe.

little
at

as

thus

as

the

the

"

front, take

the

bring

the

the

like.

instep ;
you

three

or

may

stitch
like

of

the

same

ankle,

and

sew

the

till

always
each

to

row.

twenty-two

up

You

and
have

this

knit

may

after, having knit

knit

stitches

one

continued

end

together till you

stitches
you

row,

piece just knitted,

centre

it

repeated

of

stitch

last

knit

from

holes, remembering

changing

rosette

be

to

end

back

together to
are

piece,

the

and

stitch

now

this

thus:"

row

rows

ribbon,

holes

the

the

high

as

Rib

the

all these

pattern

same

of

of

row.)

the

with
knitted

knitting
the

row

thus

side

and

and

instep,

at

must,
the

stitches

of

rows

the

for

from

front

two

Slipper

knitting

you

stitch

two

these

stitch

each

last

thirty-four
together

the

in

work

your

you

loops

instep,

next

knit

row

side

sixteen

your

the

fourteen

have

you

of

toe, till you

join these

stitch

The

and

back

give

complete

or

up

knit

together.

wool

front

stitch

to

care

will

up

the

divide

now

(Remember,

row.

last

the

side

Take

take

row,

every

will

for

end

needles

This

the

makes

with

left

this

two

Stocking.

which

stitches

of

off.

one

rib

each

the

at

equal parts,

two

stitches

of

stitch

one

sixty-eight

into

CROCHET,

the

three

other

row.

instep

ribbon
it in

the

in

and

plain
every

ankle

you

look

best.
into

run

front

of

the

AND

KNITTING,

Caps

Knee

Three

every

row

stitch

on

the other

each

end

back

row,

the

same

do

till you

and

work

knee

useful

for

delicate

legs. They

by gentlemen

take

also

are

Three

or

four

these
knit
double

two

plain.

Fourth

knitting to

four, which

cast

last stitches

knit

but

one

the

plain.

quiteso deep.

not

them,

to

from

cold

are

knees

cotton)

coarse

end
Knit

10

end

of

needles.

plain.

knit

knit

row,

the

the

horseback.

row

over,
to

like, not

you

attached

fleecy,No.

thread

stitches,

two

seventy-four

Boddice.

seventy-fivestitches, knit
knit

in the

loops
sixty-four

suffer

on

Siberian

as

(knittedin

worn

ride much

who

about

who

forty-sixth

just added,

up

deep

leggings

the

piece(having joined

same,

persons

take

as

up

the

it
with

caps,

rib

needles)

four

rib

left

stitches

have

from

before,

decrease

you

one

do

as

to

row

then

rows,

side, and

inches

two

side, and

These

and

broad

stitch

seventh

other

every

proportions as

only two

add

of

twenty-first

to

seventh

the

end

one

stitch
forty-first
on

Set

11.

now

row

the

stitch

only,

same

with

other

to

twenty-four plain

the

less than

plain row

on

row

one

side

have

loops on

other

add

No.

stitch at

one

one

stitch

other

then

way

your

add

of every

one

every

broad

stitch

end

add

stitch, then

on

stitch,

tenth

to

Size.

fleecy; needles,

stitches,knit them,

two

on

Large

"

thread

four

or

85

EMBROIDERY.

four
the

Second

on

row,

together, repeat

two

of the

Set

row.

stitches
row,

three
sixty-

Third

plain,then

except
more

row,

the
rows

last
like

86

NETTING,

the

last.

you

will

this

third

The

pin

rows

off

on

of

one

this

"

cast

on

only

one

stitches
the

each

at

last will

and

stitches

other

needle

Take

up

the

plain rows

double

the

make

of the

the

side

stitches

four

other

the

at

the

on

next

where

row

have

you

stitches
forty-five

the

this

part with
half

same

the
for

way

all round
of

row

three

now

plain

Knit

the

front.

knit

neck, and

two

as

on

half

other

the

same

plain rows,

front.

the

holes,

the

rows

give

thirty-six

knit

knitting,exceptingyour

forms

stitches

needle

sixty-eightmore

this

in

knit

with

centre, this will

piece ;

on

row

stitches

plain stitch

one

shoulder

complete
:

each

making

end

casting off

and

and

in

of the

nine

in the

pin,because

needles, keeping the

more

needle

within

to

plain stitch, and

your

third

portion

on

part for the

twenty

take

eighteen

the

plain as before,

on

knit

twenty-fivestitches

you

end

knit

to

then

cast

thus"

row

have

only

and

centre,

next

CROCHET,

two

plainrows,

more

off.

cast

Comforter.
Three-thread

thirty-fourstitches
Pattern

four

plain rows

loops you
then

take

eleven

rows

to

began with,
up

pointall along
after every

about

the
one

in

double

some

from

side, knit
;

do

pretty

one

Set

10.

or

Take

up

one

them
another
stitch

singleleaf

or

the

and

to

add

piece ;
the

other
stitch

one

plain row,
(brace

end,

thirty-four

another

point

on

of any

stitch at each

just such

knit

and

loops

stitches

two

point.

ninety-nine rows

decrease

well,) then

pattern looks
and

do

(feather stitch,

like

you

No.

Needles

fleecyon

then

stitch

do

looks

88

NETTING,

Thirteenth
cast

over,

knit

two,

knit

Fifteenth

fyc.

cast

rib

two,

This

fyc.

"c.

cushions,

and

of

blue

seven

rows

white.'
of

seven

rows

each

tie the

doing

this

You

must

end

the
a

needles.
knit

knit

end

of

gether,
to-

two

the

row.

for

bags,
tidies,

sofa

or

knit

together,

round

Neck.

the

German

and

with

the

then

have

cord

the

stitches
and

knit,

alternate

ridges of

tassel, or

Cast
then

each

ribbon

knit

five

blue

and

blue

seven

ridges of

togetherat

or

alternately,

rib and

whole

six white

needles.

plain row,

one

white

in the

colours,

two

16

or

and

rib

with

will form

15

white, do

and

eighty stitches,

on

wool,

No.

wool,

ridges

five

rows

end, attaching
if

preferred,to

ruff.

Ladies'
Made

repeat,

over,

two

comforters

for

each, and

rows

Draw

each.
to

coloured

the

for

fleecyor

eighty stitches

join

the

cast

rib

row,
to

two,

one,

pretty, if done

Ruff

blue, "c,

and

white

knit

middling size, cast

fine

either

three,

rib two

"c.

pretty

If wanted

on

Sixteenth

open

covers,

using

knit

nine, knit, repeat

knit

one*

together,

two

rib one,

row,
seven,

knit

over,

knit

one,

three, rib two,

pattern is very

purses,

rib

rib two,

knit

over,

knit

two,

cast

two,

Fourteenth

knit

row,

repeat,
knit

rib two,

two,

one,

knit

two,

repeat, fyc.

together,rib

one,

rib

row,

CROCHET,

with
Set

Carriage

four-thread
on

fleecy,and

twenty-

eight stitches, back

Boots.

seven

again

No,

stitches, add
to

the

end

13

or

14

one,

and

return

and

KNITTING^
knit

the

entire

each

and

end, and
;

for

centre,

the

stitch
at

in the

looks

each

plain rows,

next

well

in the

end, and

stitches

each

will

give

any

more

stitches, for
and

only

then

one

side

and

decrease

then
left

twelve

cast

For

ankle, take up twenty-one

the

with

the

five

thirteen

knit

needles.
boots

the

ankle

high

as

in

any

closed
you

Babies'

are

to

be

made

on

only lesseningthe
and

in the

twenty- one

same

is

you

cast

seventeen

and

heel.

give

fifty-

you

preferwith

four

make

the

off.

same

plan

of stitches

proportionin

stitches

till you

row

Boots

exactly the
number

twenty- eight

knittingbehind,

wish, and

teen
seven-

loops each side,which

stitches

your

do

now

first

side

other

the

in

single

last

stitches, will

centre

Having

as

for

do

the

Do

exactlythe

without

taken

the

other

every

stitches

same

centre,

stitches

double

off

heel

off.

seventeen

of eleven

take

before

as

rows

being

instead

at

pattern

in the

fourteen

stitches

stitches

the

have

you

doing

centre, these

plain rows

more

do

row,

thirty-nine

adding

eleven

the

omit

now

thirteen

give you

have

with

then
forty-five
;

you

plain rows,

till

back

stitches,(feather

on

go

hack

stitch

have

eleven

middle)

side, which,

increase

fourteen

this

knit

one

one) begin

plain rows,

two

the feather-stitch
will

for

taking

add

till you

(a back

row

whole

the

Now

began.

you

two

stitches

do

end,

the

at

one

then

return,

where

89

EMBROIDERY.

adding

row,

eight stitches

returningto

AND

good

every

at

and
the

other

number

principle,
beginning,

part.
to

About

begin with

90

NETTING,
take

these

stitches

more

used, and

needles

the

Ruff

Done
and

and

add

three

plain rows

ninety-two,and
stitch
row

to

five

one

stitches,and

on

holes,

rows

and

and

similar

piece, join

through
well, and

them

holes.

the

looks

to

again,

is

one

inch

apart

knitted

work,
do

ten

again
rib ten
the

which

at

as

do

rows

end,
This

is done

rows

to

forms

ten
more.

which
a

and

one

plain

and

thirty

look

and

run

comfortable

of

row

off; do

cast

and

for

well)

one

row,

ribbon

ruff, washes

Boa.

be

must

underneath

by knitting two

first, turn
and

more,

Cast

put

cast

again
turn

off

very

rows

and

once

do

nearly

on

rib, alternately,ten

taken

be

must

rows

and

knit

sixth

for children.

well

seventy stitches, they

on

front

to

fancy stitches

some

stitches

Berlin
Set

do

stitch

every

hundred

together,

This

on

one

one

; now

row

third

stitches,and

plain

one

plain

one

nine

wool,

sixty-seven

to

every
add

German-wire

then

stitch

on

German

fifty-sixstitches,do

on

one

finer.

size.

double

sixth

sixth

plain rows

Set

plain rows

(feather-stitches,
or
eighteen

add

every

two

large

"

every

hundred

one

add

on

one

all much

are

fleecy,or

needles.

12

or

the wool

proportion, because

Neck

the

two-thread

11

eight rows

in

employed,

for

with

No.

CROCHET,

then

turn

your

in succession
ten

more,

and

knit

loosely,and

draw

more

the

rows,

turn

and
up

tassel.

pretty ruff

for the

neck, settingon

only

KNITTING,

about

91

EMBROIDERY.

eighteen inches, drawing

ribbon

or

AND

with

end

the

up

cord

tie.

to

Bustle.
Four
Set

on

the

last

being

row

ridge of
have

you

bustle

deep

than

than

the last

and

then

three

the

piece

first,do
take

them

Deep

the

up

holes

Cuffs

to

two

in

and

cast

wear

are

rows

form

to

knitted
one

thus

over,

the next

round
make

inches

as

yard) then

like.

you
knit

in

finish

as

you

with

needles

10

or

top, then

one

knitted,
one

Berlin

knit two

or

for

four

one

like

row

Wire

Stitch

plainand

twelve

plain

of

holes,
do

any

looks

well

together,and

two

have

done

stitch

every

you

(not less

rib

then

row,

one

needles

three

do

plain

After

decrease

the

pieces

plainrows,

Dress

the

left
only thirty-eight

have

long

three

the

plain.

length

less

off.

stitch, knit

one

round

till you
it

at

ribbed, and

stitch

done

ribbed,

one

rows,

ridges

three

these

forty-eightstitches,

on

ring

plain,one

fancy

two

Set

the

out.

No.
fleecy,

required.

ridges

ridge less deep

ribbon, and

do

have

to

two

one

or

over

walking

Two-thread

these

wish

you

loops of

run

to

as

rows,

also, and

doing

on

piece

knit

needles.

11

or

next

piece just

third

plain rows,

more

deep

as

the

go

together;

of

row

rows

10

nine
alternately

rib

knit

off, do another

cast

knit

and

knitted

nine

No.

and
fleecy,

eightystitches,knit

another
till

six-thread

or

than

for the
a

ribbed

cast

about
third

hand,

quarter

of

rounds, the

92

NETTING,

holes

and

rounds
each

plain rounds
form

to

end

Child's
Two
Set

or

on

one

do

and
to

row

from

of

have

back, knit

ten

to

three

plain

plainrow

one

of the

back
other

for the
Now

you
then

rows,

the

have

of the
the

decrease

sixty-ninestitches

to

one

shoulder, do

six

neck

end, and

rows

between, about

the

shoulder.

last

add

at

rows

the

one

crease
de-

then

till you

rows,

plain rows

do

three

plainrows

and

do

This

only two

forms

thirty-fourstitches

do

only

one

side

the

same

back.

middle
oue

twice

decrease, and

do
half

plain rows

then

eighteenstitches.
last

for

twelve

decrease

to

row

five

then

knit

stitch,and

twenty-one

three

stitches

row

twenty-threestitches,then

the

on

side,and

other

and

forwards, leaving

and

stitches

plain

rows,

thirty-fourstitches

knit

again one

two

stitch

increased

15.

or

three

to

one

each

unknitted, every

decrease

add

backwards

stitch, and

needles,

14

on

needle

at

size.

holes, rib

middle

ribbon

large

then

the

only twenty-seven

plain rows

Do

row

third

on

one

till you

stitches

have

make

plain

side of the
two

rather

forty-onestitches

and

two

holes.

hundred

stitch

off

the

about

run

No.
fleecy,

plain rows,
take

made

hand

three-thread

another

twentieth

the

Spencer,

rib two,

rows,

have

you

rib

first,and

at

as

ring round

where

CROCHET,

95

stitch
;

stitches,do three

at each

then

end, and

six times

repeat this

decrease

add

now

three

only,

times, and

twenty stitches exactlythe

same

for
the

at

end, knittingthree
;

plain

one

twenty stitches

take

plain,then
other

plain

plain

and

do

cast

off.

for the other

Now

the

stitches

take

shoulder

rib

plain rows,

two

knit

rows,

stitches

off:

neck, and

of every

till you

row,

plain rows

six

stitches

long, and

this
have
more

to

knit

holes, rib
ribbon

two

in

the

the waist.

stitch

one

four

at

each

end

about

give you

about

turn

needles, decrease

and

two

round

up

Gentleman's

Bosom

four-thread

fleecy,No.

or

and

hundred

always
each

cuff

and

seventy stitches, do twenty-

will

rib in twos
a

the

fifty-four

half

inches

wrist, of

the

one

some

stitch.

Three
one

add

have

sixth, which

then

of

Sleeve.

join with

; now

stitch in every

fancy

run

twenty-fourstitches, add

on

of

also round

Spencer
Set

done

eighteen

top

needle

one

row

cast

the

along
on

make

and

the

at

all

loops

two,

row,

one

of holes

row

the

up

put all these

the

will have

you

on

back, the twenty-nine in the middle, and

of each

must

you

left

joiningthe shoulder-piecesjust

already knitted

back

stitches

twenty-ninemiddle

the

needle, aftLT

your
to

have

you

93

EMBROIDERY.

AND

KNITTING,

knit

is

three
and

row,

for

on

and

four

the

others

inches
one

needles.

knit

four

plain stitches

in

side, and

rows

each

knit

the

finish

with

cast

whole

end

two

of
if

or

till you
on

in

stitches

on

rows

knitting;

then

length ;

Set

plain

it in brace-stitch

plain knitting, two

twenty

at

in double

thick, knit

too

twelve

stitches
ribbed

or

knit

thought

about

stitches

thirtystitches,

Friend.

forty
nate
alter-

and

two

plain

rows,

94

CROCHET,

NETTING,

and

sew

is

piece

to

N.B.

of

to

back

the

other

narrow

the

double

the

and

neck,

chest.

the

over

the

to

of

being

ribbed

head,

and

part

narrow

easily

pass

band

the

cover

The

this

the

at

go

is

knitting

will

end

one

ETC.

is

fit

and

elastic,

very

pleasantly

to

the

throat.

Shawl

Hang

twice

worsted

the

back

again,

it

again),
put

stitch,

pin

that

knit

fringe

the

knit

pearl

(as

hand

it

you

and

put

pearl

which

also

round

the

knit

brings

twice,

and

the

put
after

the

knitting
put

forward,

last

to

you

knit

hang

pearling,

fringe

slip

next,

the

put

together,

and

the

then

back,

plain,

two

front

in

bring

one,

nine

pin,
left

was

three,

it,

pin,

the

right

on

returning

the

round

over

knit

stitches,

the

fringe

worsted

it

fourteen

on

Fringe.

the

the

knit

stitch.

the

In

fringe

worsted

remainder.

off

96

NETTING,

the

give

which

finishingtouches

of their

furniture

drawing
in

illustrated

work

drawing,
and

stitch
laid

the

on

The

after the

about

of

this

third

better

We

than

the

shall

now

termed

usual

in

frame.

from

bias

give

forming

be

work

and

technically
hope

Stitches,
least

way,
In

of

way

accompanying
an

the

is much

needle

to

by

render

experienced,

by passing the
cross

Plate

to

it

and

wool

over

should

be

grounding, perform

the

canvas,

and

work

right.

left to

The

is, that

Stitch.

Tent

the

the

work

the

the

Art,

the

is worked

is

finished.

are

produced

may

various

thread

done

what

the

easilypracticableto

This

cross

required by

up

to

of
the

1.

the

this

ground.

proceed

analysis of

one

In

work

effect

it throws

as

Business

the

careful
them

of

velvet, which

labour

the

kind

XVIII.

styleof

of the

elegant

the

stripesof needlework,

one

beautiful

No.

stripesthe

ordinary patterns, while

more

is

stripes represent

black

the

the

to

rooms,

Plate

coloured

advantage

saves

CROCHET,

idea

but

of

small

XVII.

pattern

this

is

beautiful

section

of

scarcely sufficient
style of work,

much

it

larger one,

Plate

XVII.

Plate

XVIII.

KNITTING,

but

it is

kind

black

the

it will

hoped

of work

AND

The

how

portion

of

the

lighterones.

are

to

by

be

the

the

covering

white

wool

pattern illustrated
to

size.

any

The

in

colours, according

then

silk.
between
at

each

The

of the

should

hoped

will be

found

rather

worker,

the

to
so

those
far

be

of

tended
ex-

first

are

of

necessary
work.

in the

wool

with
be

to

you

yellow

placed

yellow silk,and
instructions

above

sufficient

given

completed,

afterwards

The

elegant descriptionof

outlines

yellow

straightrows
edges.

is

remaining portions also,

the

over

velvet

the

the

pattern being

work

exception

the

yellow

though

must

pattern

may

wool,

The

with

uncoloured

are

in this Plate

in

pattern.

the

shew

filled up

silk.

worked

and

in

ing
remain-

The

yellow

with

You

will

The

with

single

used

be

wool.

sketch

stitches.

canvas

to

the

XVIII.

Plate

The

with

extend.

has

completed,
yellow

white,

parts which

The

means

place

the

on

pattern

in

first

colour

should

shade

worked

these

of each

render

to

crossing the

not

painting

far the dark

the
the

to

shades

require two

pattern.

sufficient

nearest

bright yellow wool,

will

be

In
intelligible.

outline

97

EMBROIDERY.

on

fixed
it is

give the reader, or

clue

to

this

rich

and

98

Let
in

bring

the

two

needle

this

in

very

stitch is the

and

pleasing and

finished

of

forming

colours,
central

making Bags,

and

points
tasteful

the

of

coarse

canvas,

Stitch.

the

wool

six

threads

and

six threads

beautiful

down,

present

completed.

The

A-la-Vandyck
by

judicious

of

gold

in

particular shades.

border

the second

when

is

over

straight,

will

pattern
very

Stitch,

appearance.

row

rendered

over

left to

Cross

althoughon

square

choice

it

straightway

which

be

where

cross

as

same

Pass

may

left ;

Stitch.

the

Windsor

4.

below

threads

Cross

is worked

canvas

rightto

stitch.

the

Straight

but

threads

two

across

slanting direction, from

This

has

put

straightline,then

completes

3.

be

wool

again two

up

in

threads

right;

the

slantingdirection,from

inserted

was

Stitch.

Cross

2.

it

CROCHET,

NETTING,

and

should

steel

be

beads,

added.

In

100

CROCHET,

NETTING,

Czar

8.

We

have

Stitch.

is

be

from

interposedbetween
Irish

9.

the

stitches

third
first

the

meet

former

row.

into

stitch, easilyworked

take

care

This

is

in working
that

the

valuable

forms.

Stitch.

is sometimes

This

threads

two

and

begun

varietyof pretty

Willow

10.

be

tween.
being left be-

the

row;

row,

to

are

is to be

row

up,between

the

on

thread

row.

threads

second

threads

four

width,

Gold

threads

eight

two
straight,

The

left

each

in

two

or

Stitch.

Four, six, or
taken

and

left.

right to

six

from

over

depth

Economic

called

worked
in

=1 eight threads

should

this

heard

It

crossed

Stitch.

called

Basket

Stitch,and is effected by placing the

needle
As
ii u
ii ii innni
nnni
II II 1UUL1I
I II II IUUUI

II

out

and

manner,
are

other
and

chosen.

you

finish

the

needle

at

six

sixth

threads.

stitch,take

ini

hi iiin

doing

straight down

six
so

the
cross

it

over

stitches, cross
on.

the
the
over

It is indifferent

third

thread,
On

centre.

in
what

the

same

colours

KNITTING,

AND

Long

11.

Plait.

Begin by taking
work

six

If

thread

intervals,

at

effect

is very

slip

and

half-way,

threads

twelve

stitches,

stitch.

101

EMBROIDERY.

striped
where

the

straight

needle

then

begin

with

gold

stitches

the

ward
downanother
silver

or

meet,

the

striking.

Feather

12.

This

is

Stitch.

done

from

left to

Tent

Stitch, the
as

so

to

right,

The

in

the

next

is

centre

threads,

same

as

way
turned

being

row

semblance

the

represent

feather.

twelve

over

usually

of

stitched

I'.i'viik'viioir.

aivi

;kvi'/,i.\'i'/i
3

"

""

"

"

"

O'l

\'M

up

with

gold, silver,

Stitch

13.

Twelve
reduced
width

agrees

silk

thread.

la Vandyck.

threads
two

or

are

threads
with

taken
each

the

across,

stitch,

and
till the

required depth.

102

NETTING,

Point

14.

Ten

CROCHET,

threads

down

the

ten

stitches

ten

threads

placed

in

this

the

of

threads

ten

canvas

and

work

then

work

deep,

straight;

continue.

so

stitch,bright

of

the

For

the

width

the

and

canvas,

display of

Plait.

lengthway

take

the

in

many

as

opposite.

The

full

and

Square

15.

straight

taken

be

must

canvas,

stitch

next

Stitch.

colours

should

be

opposition.

Gobelin

16.

Take

two

Stitch.

in

threads

height, and

in

one

width.
This

placed
has

scarlet

formed

between

two

pretty effect.

very
in

stitch

Vandykes,
and

charming

green,

azure

in

bags

effect

threads

dark
and

of

of
of

Shades

whether

Card

over

the canvas,

the

blue

same

and

lilac, "c.

different

Straw

or

colours.

lour
co-

gold,
have

KNITTING,

17.

AND

Perspective

Stitch.

Twelve

needle

the

cross

the

two

threads

at

five

to take

this

after

top; proceeding

fashion

stitches

seven

stitches, finishingwith

appropriatecolour,
with

take

way,

with

out

been

having

threads

counted

the

103

EMBROIDERY.

and
any

in
filling

and

silk.
Star.

18.

Mel 1 IIITPH

Six threads

7K-\

ill ESQ

between
The

stars

be

should

four

site
oppo-

stitches
of each.

centre

varied
judiciously
in silk

worked

colour, and

in

that

in the

bead

four

taken

after

and

ways,

be

must

canvas.

^Frr-H-i-

straight rows

Three

and

the

space

board)

with

crossed

at

Cross

of

more

that

is

is very

are

worked

wards
down-

left,work

end, and
has

elegant.

cut

the

then

to

Three
be

is finished.

down

Stitch
the

card

double

centre

effect of velvet

ecuted
ex-

Over

(over strips of

threads, Economic

four

each

Stitch

proceed till it

so

pen-knife. This

and

be

to

are

Stitch, leavingfour threads.

of Cross
rows

Stitch.

Velvet

19.

in

with

lines,

104

CROCHET,

NETTING,

Serpentine

20.

This

stitch

before.

threads,
five

five

by taking

that, five stitches

one

called

is sometimes

executed

In

ascending threads,

stitch

so

Double

or

The

fifth

threads,

two

stitches

each

cross-

square,

Taking

canvas.

in the

star

desirable,with

end.

twenty-two

threads

two

on

ascending,

two

on

as

row.

on

silk

on

five

and

Star.

Stitch
way,

; then

stitches

the

to

on

top stitch of each

21.

are

five

nine, five

on

descending,and

stitch is the

straight;after

threads

descending,take

one

is

Spiral Stitch,and

ascending threads

two

on

nine

one

Stitch.

eight
the

commence

way,

Bright colours

centre.

brilliant centre

of

silver,gold,

steel beads.

Crossed

22.

Ten

be

throughout

the

worked

taken, and

the

cross

threads

twelve

or

width

thread,

Stitch.

long

next

manner,

and

every

eight

pattern.

of

or

the

to

in

the

gold

or

twelve

quired
re-

tinue
Con-

canvas.

row

with

deep must

same

silver
stitches

KNITTING,

The
a

AND

introduction

EMBROIDERY.

of

gold

surprisinglybeautiful
of

Gold
and

colour

purple.

by
between

with

The

more

the

silver

thread

effect,provided

such

are

well

contrasts

and

105

vivid

tints

of

strata
sub-

it relief.

silver,with

green

shades

the

give

to

as

has

be

may

colour

blue

proximate
ap-

introduced

them.
Fancy

23.

Stitch.

Over
take

five

them

meet

rich

work

diamond

coloured

silk

threads
the

reverse

other

five

leaves

; which

of

canvas

of

stitches,

and

canvas,

of

number

any

form,
be

can

to

space
where
fully
taste-

filled in.

Lace

24.

This

Stitch.

is

in the

Stitch.

range

of

black

Chantilly silk,both

edge

in

arrive

given by taking two

at

to

threads

stitches,

in Cross

sort

with

of

pattern.
2

dice

wool

in

pearl edge

straight beyond

in

Straight Stitch, so

is finished

resemblance

ful
beauti-

executed

commonly

and

to

the
A

most

is

as

Cross

whole

the

and

Stitch

pattern, and

of

one

is

the

106

NETTING,

CROCHET,

Princess

25.

You

Stitch.

begin

must

increase

and

before.

increase

two

on

fourteen

to

should

colour

after

again

and

variety of

till fourteen

way

covered

are

commence

threads,

threads,

two

each

two

threads
which

with

be

as

alternately

used.

HOHENLINDEN

26.

STITCH.

Begin by taking eightthreads

and

increase
twelve

to

thus

remains

After
be

must

To

beauty
one

his

German

of the bravest

day, we

and

Ten

leave

stitch to the

canvas

varied

four
in

which

space

row.

for

remarkable

her

captivated

accomplished

being

of

end

taken

men

this

of

stitch.

of
of

shaded

throughout.

the

Irish

across

between

thread

one

rows

stitch in

Pattern.

threads

canvas,

commenced

long

invention

the

up

eight.

to

traits which

Cane

27-

as

most

refer

must

take

first

the

amiable

way

gold-coloured silk,in

Princess,

for those

as

in

worked
to

the

diamond

this,the

opposite direction

an

being

meet

canvas,

each

decrease

row

which

threads

row.

which

second

the

thread

one

after

the

twelve
first

the

stitches

threads

Proceed
with

the

down

row.

Stitch

colours, which

the

each

After

this

down

the

may

be

108

NETTING,

last
six

stitch.

Now

decrease

"

in

space

take

form

"

CROCHET,

diamond

its centre

threads, increase

four

with

and

silver

work

up

to

the

gold thread, or

or

steel beads.
Tt
the

is

scarcely possible to

effect

colours

are

produced

form

this

by

conception

when

pattern

skilfullyselected, unless

it be

of

the
on

seen

largerscale.

Palace

30.

For

Pattern.

this

stitch must
the

long

thread

eight

be taken

over

of

the

way

increased

being
threads
to

the

same

the

two

each

threads.
for

until

then

Proceed

the

crease
dein

diamond,

next

silk in

with

spaces

one

way
"

one

threads,

canvas,

crossed,

are

two

way

in
filling

pretty pattern,

very

bright

colours.
This
the

is

eye,

outline

of those

one

possessing
and

offends

by

within

natural

so

notwithstanding
never

designs which

itself great
is its

wearies

never

variety of

arrangement,

the

angularityof

the

obtrusiveness

its
of

that

character, it
one

portion

another.

over

31.

These
may

be

Patterns.

Plaid

should

be

copied

from

worked

in

ribbons,

Cross
or

the

Stitch,and
new

Berlin

KNITTING,

Patterns

of

AND

the

various

extremely elegant,and

Clan
are

32.

109

EMBROIDERY.

Plaids,

which

look

correct.

very

Diamonds.
Two

threads

the

canvas,

way

to

taken

are

across

increasingone

fourteen, and

each

decreasing

so
similarly,
progressingthroughout.

For

threads

be

to

are

down

taken

next

silver,or gold beads,

Applique,
this

does

head,

Braid

Work.

exactly come

under

will

ing
increaswith

steel,

all three.

and

not
we

or

two

row

the canvas,

decreasing alternately. Finish

and

As

the

here

give

any

brief

ceding
pre-

account

of it.
The

principleof Applique

placing satin,velvet, or
foundation,

and

in

manner

be

patterns may
fibres of

similar
cut

be

worked

centres

to

the

centres

of flowers

effect

which,

the needle.

the

to

with
silk

with

edges

"

The
and

braided, and

purse-silk. Work

French
must

be

down

Braiding.
The

to

are

of

cloth, upon

tacking them

in paper.

leaves, flowers, "c.

the

to

out

is that

knots
be

; in order

twisted

round

110

crochet,

netting,

Grounding.

Begin

from

will

you

Stitch
To

the

thus

work

leave
of

the

wool

for

on

the

side,and

in

Tent

in

singlewool
threads

fourteen

the

on

to the

inch

clude,
con-

off.

ground,

left.

to

have

not

colour

close

dark

of

you

them

right

must

canvas

needlesful

through, as
cut

gether,
to-

fastenings

preserve

Stitch
from

straight across

Stitch

to

back.

coming

short

as

and

Cross

cross

the

to

Take

the ends

wrong

In

from

come

soil. Draw

grounding

work

wool

you

lightgrounds, so

free from

In

off before

preceding.

row

wool.

afterwards

and

way,

fastenings of

prevent

downwards,

soilingthe

avoid

one

work

and

centre

Tent
than

more

Cross

Stitch,

twenty threads.

General

When

coarse

eighteen
thread

threads

single wool

Silk

canvas

worked
In

or

be

in

Stitch

the

Cross

on

working

it should

wool,

one

Stitch^on

grounding,

be

be
On

inch.

pattern should

requiresno
in Tent

for

chosen

to

more

in Cross

grounding

the

double

the

canvas,

is

canvas

with

Stitch

Cross

Instructions.

worked

thread.

of

ten-

in

Let

threads.

two

and

in

should

be

with

the

Stitch.

working Drawings

on

canvas,

begin

dark
of

with

shades, commencing

the

flower

shades,

in the

as

these

in the

feathery character

varied

in

all means,

by
blue

the

resemble

would

of

of course,

in

force

it

In

red

the

the
as

Painting

very

beautiful
the

soften

"

greater
Work

effect,
from

hues

greenish hue, purple,

and

blue.

figures,it

is desirable

to

the

execute

hands

in Tent

Stitch, and

the

Cross

Stitch.

of silk and

the

diciou
juartist

an

Berlin

the

on

most

which

skill to

pink,

choose,

such

and

school,

for the

has

be

green

allowance

fore-ground

to

should

Water-Colour

sunset

have

colour,

tern.
pat-

particularly

modern

in nature

some

requires much

glowing
deep

the

of.

admits
but

in

in the

bright

of

be

should

lightness. Avoid,

or

patterns which

employ

making,

depth

many

admixture

various

of trees, which

nothing

those

contrary,

in the

care,

conventional

of

patterns

which

in

portion

lightestshades

Landscapes require much

tint,and

darker

Silk

originalpattern.

last for the

introduced

the

Soften

leaf.

or

Ill

EMBROIDERY.

AND

KNITTING,

effect

by

Silk

is also

which

it

the

mixture

and

appropriate

for

armorial

parts immediately surrounding

drapery

wool

greater brilliancyof

gives great relief,more

in worsted.

hair

face and

the

adds

to

former.

bearings, to

particularlyif
the

in

shield

be

the

done

112

NETTING^

The

CROCHET,

Movable

Mesh

The
has

invention
been

French

devoted

much

found

the

Work

request

as

detached
2

drops

into

When
the

use

the

needle

The
at

No.

being

Mesh

tooth

corresponding
is

Mesh

Knife,

2, Upper

which

Baker

has

branch

the

in the

thus

Street, Portman

Knife

Mesh

into

of

end

it
on

it,and

with
the

by

also

centre, which

in the

notch

been

the

fastened

full,the Knife

through

drawn

much

Mesh.

the

fitted

slit at each
a

other

shews

Knife

knife

by

species

as

represents
from

Fig.

\J

of
facility

its

into
any

have

we

Art.

Fig.

the

in finishing

this beautiful

bring

of the

difficulties

; and

will, by

tion
atten-

It will be

all the

Needlework

of

and

experienced

doubt

use,

time

has

who

subject.

Raised
no

by

artist

to meet

hitherto

represented

introduced

clever

to

Knife.*

Mesh.

is attached

and

dividing the loop

registered,may
Square.

be

seen

in

114

shade

partly

with

gold

Be
pressure

in the

at

the

in

stitch
with

work

In

in the

same

and
of

the

thickly than
Flat

and

side

kind

of

In

pressed.
object
the

Raised

be
there

which

only
the
be

work

to

where
be

C-.

NORMAN,

PRINTER,

much

should

be

in the

same

END.

MAIDEN

LANE,

shaded
should

it

COVENT

was

ultimately

of work.

THE

one

leaves

Embroidery

worked

Embroidery

you

by bringing out

must

Raised

must

edges

the

close

work

possible,

as

vein

state,

even

right

This

damped
centre

the

in the

should

silk ; and

on

passed.

Wool

manner

very

much

take

and

once,

as

from

on

Work

Braid
at

too

material

in

of

work

smoothly

Embroidery

preserved in
wool

not

as

the

needle

the

twist.

Chenille

all

keep

working it,take

is velvet.

work

arabesque work,

is admissible.

shades

time, and

In

edges, a greater degree

particularlywhen

more

the

to

in

needle

be

for

careful

ETC.

another.

over

twist

abruptness

of

CROCHET,

NETTING,

GARDEN.

the

more

mixture

piece