Italia!

ITALIA!
Issue 135 February 2016 4.60
NEW WEBSITE! www.italytravelandlife.com
HOLIDAYS PROPERTY FOOD WINE CULTURE PEOPLE
UMBRIAS HEART
Join us for 48 hours in the stunning city of Perugia,
famed for its back streets and its chocolate!
Rome in the snow

Enjoying the Eternal City
under a blanket of white
RETURN TO SARDINIA
The perfect family holiday
in the south of the island
THE HIGH LIFE
Where to buy an apartment
THE UKS AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE ABOUT ITALY
Winter warmers
02
9 771744 796061
Issue 135
February
2016 4.60
Benetton after 50 years
MEALS IN
MINUTES
I N V I TAT I O N T O
Handpicked Holiday Rentals

At Invitation to Tuscany we have been choosing the best properties for rent in Tuscany for over 30
years. We personally visit every villa before we list it and we go back regularly. We have more than 200
properties all privately contracted with the owners, and extensive personal local knowledge of Tuscany.
Our hand-picked properties range from luxury villas with private pools to family villas in Tuscany with
shared pools, romantic retreats high in the Tuscan hills, village homes where you can participate in local
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www.invitationtotuscany.com info@invitationtotuscany.com
Tel: +44 (0) 20 8444 9500 Fax: +44 (0) 20 8371 5949
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W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A !
Welcome!
Im a little embarrassed that,

although Ive been lucky enough to
travel extensively through Umbria,
Ive never (yet!) made it to the
regions capital, Perugia. Ive come
close: I very nearly went to the citys
world-famous chocolate festival one
year, but all the hotels were full...
So I read with interest our cover
feature this month, where Lorenza Bacino discovers there
a lot more to the city than sweet things to pop into your
mouth. Its a city of art and intrigue, as youll discover
from page 36.
Rome features again in this issue, in two features, in
fact. First off, from page 44, regular writer Adrian Mourby
spends time in the city when its covered in snow. I am
particularly proud of some of the stunning images he came
back with. And then, from page 82 Katie and Giancarlo
Caldesi treat us to a selection of recipes for which the
Eternal City is well known.
And, as ever, theres plenty more to enjoy in the rst
issue of Italia! to be published in 2016. Anthems MD
takes his family back to a favoured spot in southern
Sardinia; Fleur Kinson examines the market for buying
apartment properties in the country; we have homes
for sale in the ever-popular Le Marche region; there are
more recipes, events to attend and news from around the
peninsula. Please do let me know what you think of the
issue youll nd my email address on page 18.
or
PS Italia!s brand new guide to Rome & the South is on sale

now (7.99). Visit www.italytravelandlife.com/italiaguides
for details.
SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!
The Italian Tourist

Board voted Italia!
the Best Overall
Publication 2011
THIS MONTHS CONTRIBUTORS

ADRIAN MOURBY has
written extensively
for Italia! and many
other food and travel
magazines. In this
issue he enjoys a
different take on
Rome, discovering
the Eternal City when
it was covered in snow. Beautiful all year
round, Rome takes on a different degree of
majesty during the winter. Just mind your
footing! See page 44.
FLEUR KINSON is one

of the best-known
faces of Italia!,
having written just
about every Homes
In... feature since the
magazine launched
in 2004. In this
issue she suggests
considering an apartment rather than a full
house. Cheaper to buy and run, they offer
city and town living that is both convenient
and affordable. Join her on page 22.
JON BICKLEY takes

his family back to
one of the most
exclusive hotel
complexes in
southern Sardinia,
returning to the Forte
Village near Chia
Laguna, where the
Bickley clan enjoy ne dining and plenty
of sport to work off the excesses! You can
read about their activities and escapades
from page 62.
February 2016 ITALIA! 3
orders only
AWARD WINNER!
*UK
Perugia is a walkers city, but

you will need strong calves to
climb all those steps
Subscribe to Italia! for our exclusive New Years offer* and

get the magazine delivered directly to your door every month!
Turn to page 32 for more information.
22
42
44
IN THI February 2016

57
PROPERTY
CULTURE
22 HOMES IN APARTMENTS
Whether youre looking for somewhere urban,
coastal or rural, Fleur Kinson guides you
through some of the practicalities.
20 GAZZETTA
Tom Alberto Bull considers the importance of
the town square to Italian life.
50 PROPERTY FOCUS: LE MARCHE

Insiders know that Le Marche has the best
property value for money in Italy.
HOLIDAYS
36 48 HOURS IN PERUGIA
The capital city of Umbria had more than
enough to keep Lorenza Bacino busy for a
long weekend.
82
42 FAST ART
Freya Middleton discusses the nature and
importance of cathedrals.
74 UNITED COLORS
Gilly Turney looks back over 50 years of
Italian fashion brand Benetton.
44 ROME IN THE SNOW

Adrian Mourby was lucky enough to arrive
just as the locals were working out how to
cope with the white stuff.
FOOD & DRINK
57 SPA ATTRACTION
Patricia Cleveland-Peck took a relaxing
break on the island of Giudecca at the Bauer
Palladio Hotel & Spa.
82 ROME: CENTURIES IN AN ITALIAN KITCHEN

Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi are back.
62 RETURN TO FORTE VILLAGE

Three years after their first visit, Jon Bickley
took his family back to Sardinia for a week of
relaxation, fine dining and sport.
4 ITALIA! February 2016
34 FAST CULTURE
Joe Gartman describes the treasures found
on the Antikythera shipwreck.
79 FOUR TAKES ON GNOCCHI

Variations on the soft dumping theme.
88 PRONTO
Five quick-and-easy Italian winter favourites.
90 BUY ITALIA!
The best readily available pestos.
92 DRINK ITALIA!
Paul Pettengale samples some grappas.
92
IN THIS ISSUE
MILAN
p16
p57
GIUDECCA
p50
PERUGIA
ROME
p62
LE MARCHE
p36
p44 p82
SANTA MARGHERITA DI PULA
MORE ITALIA!
6 READERS PHOTO COMPETITION
The best each issue wins a bottle of Nino
Franco Prosecco and cooler!
8 ITALIAN NEWS
Your round-up of the biggest and
best news stories from
around Italy.
12 TOP PICKS
Our choice of the best new
Italian products.
14 EVENTS IN FEBRUARY
Whats in the diary for
travellers to Italy.
16 VIEWPOINT
A summer nights dusk falls
on the Grand Canal in Milan,
and the cafs that line the
waterside prepare themselves for another
evenings brisk trade but it wasnt
always so peaceful
ON THE COVER
19 LETTERS
Readers share their stories and pictures
from their experiences in Italy, and tell
us where we should be going next.
32 SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!
Never miss an issue of Italia!
and save on the shop price.
68 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
Our experts are here to help.
72 PAST ITALIA!
He who controls the high
ground controls the battle,
and it doesnt get much
higher than the Rocca
Calascio.
98 ITALIA! ICONS
Beretta is the oldest active
rearms manufacturer in the
world, and is famed for its
handcrafted shotguns.
p36
p44
p62
p22
p88
p74
Y O U R I TA L I A !
READERS PHOTO
COMPETITION!
Send us your favourite photos from your Italian travels, and each month the
best photo will win a bottle of Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco and cooler!*
THIS MONTHS WINNER

Judy Reynolds, Fowlmere, near Cambridge
Photo of beautiful Portono when we stayed there for a couple of days in June this year.
SEE MORE OF
YOUR PHOTOS ON
OUR WEBSITE:
italytravelandlife.com
W
IN
!
NI
PR NO F
OS RA
ECC NC
O& OR
CH UST
ILL ICO
ER
Ian Hughes,
*
Wallasey, Merseyside
We were travelling back
to Bari airport after our
holiday near Lecce when
we popped into this
beautiful little harbour
at San Vito. My camera
was already packed so
I snapped this picture
with my mobile phone.
Rick Carlotti, Pennsylvania, USA

This photo is of the Sicily Rome American Cemetery in Anzio honoring those
nearly 11,000 American men and women who gave their lives to free Italy
from the grip of the Axis forces in WWII, helping to turn the tide in favor
of the Allies. For Americans such as me, the beauty and serenity of this place
and the overwhelming number of perfectly placed tombstones is a powerful
reminder of the price of freedom!
Goretti ODea, Co. Offaly, Ireland

What a majestic sight I was greeted with upon my arrival in
Amal in July 2015. This magnicent ship was just setting
sail. I watched as its sails unfolded, dumbfounded!
Rowland Hogg,
Wallingford, Oxfordshire
The tortuous road from
Capri town to Anacapri with
hairpin bends and barely room
for two minibuses to pass is
awesome, but climbing the
992 Phoenician Steps seen in
the foreground will really take
your breath away.
HOW TO ENTER Email high-resolution (300dpi) jpegs of your photos of Italy to

italia@anthem-publishing.com or send prints to Reader Photo Competition at the
address given on page 18. Please include a brief explanation of your photo,
plus your name, delivery address and a phone number (for our couriers).
You must be over 18 to enter.
READER OFFER Italia! readers get a 10 per cent discount off Nino
Franco wines from www.sommelierschoice.com until 29 February 2016
by entering the code italia10 at the checkout.
Please note: Any photos you submit must be your own work and you must have
the right to send them for inclusion on this page. By sending your entry, you are
conrming that Italia!s use of your photo(s) will not constitute infringement of any
rights, and conrming that you are over 18.
*Prosecco and cooler delivered to mainland UK addresses only
Paul Norgard, Michigan, USA

Took this photo October 2013 on a road cycling ride
to Volpaia, Province of Siena, Tuscany. Quintessential
Tuscany, rolling hills, vineyards and cypresses.
NEWS
February 2016
In Italian news this month, some ancient sh sauce turns up in a

shipwreck, a second Mona Lisa turns up in Russia, Romes Olympic
bid turns up the heat, and the Ghetto gets set for a make over
SOMETHING SMELLS FISHY

Tomato ketchup may not have been invented when the Ancient Romans were around, but its precursor was
and thousands of jars of the stuff have been discovered in a shipwreck off the coast of Alassio, Liguria. The
seasoning, a pungent sh-based sauce known as garum, was found piled up high inside a sunken vessel
dating back to the 1st or 2nd century AD. And while its not exactly gold bullion, it still represents an
important discovery for archaeologists especially as the ship is one of only ve Ancient Roman boats to
have been located in the deep waters of the Mediterranean. Enthused Vincenzo Tine, Ligurias
Superintendent of Archaeology, Locating [the ship] at such depth has been a very important
achievement. Garum was made by fermenting sh in saltwater, much like modern Asian sh
sauces, and accompanied almost every meal in Ancient Roman times.
SNIPPETS SNIPPETS SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS
ODO
HARRY POTTER AND THE TOLERANT SCHOOLKIDS
lian fast food chain has opened in London.

preneurs Amin Bouafsoun and Simone Sajeva,
elin-starred chef Tommaso Arrigoni on board,
es to bring the authentic, passionate avours
estaurants in the City, Mayfair and Canary
f, and all at competitive prices. But the Italian
eme doesnt stop with the dishes themselves
brilliantly, home deliveries will be carried out
by staff driving either a Fiat 500 or a Vespa,
and wearing Italian fashions supplied by
Dainese and Conte of Florence. Orders will be
taken via a simple two-step app process.
Hey presto! Not only is Harry Potter a damn good wizard,

he also makes students more tolerant human beings. Two
studies have been carried out among Italian schoolkids
one with 34 fth-graders and the second with 117
high-school pupils where the children were encouraged
to read passages from JK Rowlings books over a course of
six weeks, then asked to ll out questionnaires. The results
suggested that those students who identied emotionally
with the young wizard, and his magical mates Ron Weasley
and Hermione Granger, showed improved attitudes towards
immigrants and a greater afnity with LGBT (lesbian, gay,
bisexual and transgender) people.
Experts are hoping that computer software will help

them to determine if the second Mona Lisa was painted
by Leonardo da Vinci or is merely an inspired fake
WE CERTAINLY WERENT EXPECTING TWINS
THERES NO PLACE LIKE ROME

Rome will host the Ryder Cup in 2022 the rst time the prestigious mens
golf competition will have been held in Italy, and only the third time it will
have taken place in continental Europe (following Spain in 1997 and France
in 2018). Austria, Germany and Spain also bid for the right to host the 2022
edition of the biennial tournament, which pits the best European players
against their American counterparts, but Italy and specically Romes
Marco Simone Golf & Country Club, was deemed the most suitable. One of
the awarding judges, Keith Pelley, said, History has shown time and again
that the Ryder Cup is pure theatre, with the players being the stars, and
theres no question that the Eternal City of Rome will provide a wonderful
backdrop for one of the great occasions in world golf. The most recent
Ryder Cup was held in Scotland in 2014, and won by Europe the teams
third consecutive triumph.
Photography iStock, unless otherwise stated
Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci

[Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
Leonardo da Vincis Mona Lisa is a one-off work of genius, right? Well, it turns out it might not be. A
second painting, looking virtually identical to the Renaissance artists priceless masterpiece, has been
discovered in a private collection in St Petersburg, Russia. The duplicate has dumbfounded Da Vinci
experts, with the only real difference to the version hanging in the Louvre in Paris appearing to be two
columns framing the picture. Theyre hoping that newly developed computer software will help them
to determine if the second Mona Lisa was actually painted by the Renaissance master or is merely an
inspired fake. There are many indicators pointing to the Tuscan artistic genius, said Italian art expert
Silvano Vinceti. But, of course, its only a hypothesis. The original Mona Lisa is believed to have been
painted between 1503 and 1506, and has been on permanent display at the Louvre since 1797.
S...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPE
PININFARINAS PASSAGE TO INDIA
THE BARD HITS THE BIG SCREEN
Legendary Italian auto-design company Pininfarina S.p.A

has been bought out by Indias Mahindra Group. The
debt-ridden rm, based in Cambiano, has designed cars
for Ferrari, Maserati and Rolls-Royce, but a failure to
turn around a prot in ten of the last 11 years took its
toll. The acquisition means that, though Pininfarina will
remain an independent company, with Paolo Pininfarina
continuing as chairman of the board, its design expertise
will be distributed across the entire Mahindra Group.
Said the Indian brands chairman, Anand Mahindra, The
legendary high-end designing credentials of Pininfarina
will signicantly enhance [our] design capabilities.
Romeo and Juliet is to be turned into a war lm

but it will be Marvel genius Stan Lees graphic-novel
version thats adapted for the silver screen, rather
than William Shakespeares original 16th-century play.
The story of Romeo And Juliet is one of my absolute
favourites, and I cant wait to bring our rendition
of this classic to life, beamed Lee. Shakespeares
tragedy centred around two young lovers from Verona,
whose relationship was ultimately doomed because of
the erce rivalry between their two families. Whether
the new version is also set in the Italian city remains
to be seen.
NEWS
DONT I KNOW YOU FROM SOMEWHERE?

Everyone remembers the three Mini Coopers from classic 1969 lm The Italian Job, but what about the
Lamborghini Miura? Thats right, the glorious orange sports car was famously shunted over the side of a
cliff, prompting fans of the legendary Italian marque to cover
their eyes in horror. Well, it turns out the car used in that
scene was actually a stunt double and already a wreck, leaving
the beautiful Miura LP400 seen driving around at the start of
the lm intact. And even better, as Italia! went to press with
this issue, it was up for sale. No price was given by the seller,
Cheshire Classic Cars (meaning it was probably eye-wateringly
expensive), but we do know that the car has had ve different
owners since it was built and, while its been given a new engine
block and a lick of paint, its still one magnicent set of wheels.
Take a look at www.cheshireclassiccars.co.uk
The glorious sports car was famously shunted over a cliff
GOING FOR GOLD
GHETTO SUPERSTARS
The Venetian Heritage Council is aiming to restore the citys historic Ghetto area, and its appealing to wealthy
celebrities to help fund the project. It was 500 years ago this year 29 March, to be exact that the Venetian
Republic ordered its Jewish population to live in the Ghetto, an area well away from the heart of Venice and
surrounded by water. Now the Council, a non-prot-making organisation headed by fashion designer Diane von
Furstenberg, is asking luminaries from the worlds of fashion and showbusiness to stump up cash to renovate the
districts ve synagogues and Jewish museum, the Museo Ebrico. So far, around 2 million has been raised, but
at least another 6 million is needed to complete the project. Barbra Streisand and Donna Karan are among the
famous names who are believed to have shown an interest.
Rome has unveiled the logo for its 2024

Summer Olympics bid it depicts the
Colosseum, in the colours of the Italian ag,
blending into a running track. The Italian
capital faces stiff competition from Paris, Los
Angeles and Budapest, but the Chairman of
Romes bid, Luca Cordero di Montezemolo,
is condent that the logo gives them a
headstart. Today, were sending a strong
message to the IOC [International Olympic
Committee] and our competitors, he
declared. The city of Rome wants to
realise the most beautiful Olympics of the
century. We have everything we need to
do it culture, beauty, technology and the
enthusiasm of our young people. Speaking
of young people, the logo was revealed in
front of around 2,500 Roman schoolchildren,
along with past Italian Olympic medallists, at
the citys Palazzetto dello Sport. The IOC will
make a nal decision on which city will host
the Games in September 2017.
Bronzino, Portrait of a Young Man

[Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
ESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP P

SEXIEST EVER ITALIANS REVEALED
HOTEL MAKES IT SKI IN A ROW
Trendy New York lifestyle magazine Paper has declared its seven
sexiest Italians of all time (and then gone on to name nine).
Unsurprisingly, movie stars make up the bulk of the list, with
screen sirens Sophia Loren, Monica Bellucci, Monica Vitti, Silvana
Mangano and Ornella Muti being joined by bushy-eyebrowed
spaghetti-western star Fabio Testi. Elsewhere, theres former skier
Alberto Tomba, entrepreneur and grandson of Fiat mogul Gianni
Agnelli, Lapo Elkann, and, rather unexpectedly, the young man in
Bronzinos Portrait of a Young Man. Robert De Niro doesnt
get a look in. But what really strikes us as odd is the
idea of someone going up to Bronzinos painting and
thinking Phoar!
The Cristallo Hotel Spa & Golf in Cortina dAmpezzo

has been named Italys Best Ski Hotel for the third
year running. The ve-star resort, which is nestled
in the spectacular Dolomites region in the northeast of the country, secured its hat-trick of World
Ski Awards gongs during a glittering ceremony in
the Austrian town of Kitzbhel. Owned by the same
family since it opened in 1901, the Cristallo houses
74 individually decorated bedrooms, four on-site
restaurants, a luxury spa and a tness club. But
most importantly, its right on the doorstep of some
of Italys most majestic slopes.

FRATELLI CAMISA HAVE BEEN BRINGING TO THE

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FOOD & PRODUCTS
USE THIS!
Getting the family back to the dining table, visiting the

Puglian coast to stay in a cave hotel and making coffee from
bed are three things wed like to do this year
WEAR THIS!
SUMMER FIG TREATS
The next time youre being lashed by the sleet

and snow, imagine how much more bearable it
would be if you could lift your wrist to your
face and smell the summery scent of Puglia on
your skin. Thats the tantalising treat on offer
with this Italian Summer Fig Treats gift set
from The Body Shop. It contains a shower gel,
a body lotion (both 60ml) and a mini crinkle
bath lily but most importantly, it contains
a dose of instant warmth.
6, www.thebodyshop.co.uk
KEEP WARM IN ITALIAN STYLE
GET THE FAMILY COOKING

In this day and age, its common for your kids to eat
their dinner in their bedroom while you eat yours
on a tray in front of the TV. A new book, Lets Cook
Italian, aims to restore some family unity to your dining.
Compiled by chef Anna Prandoni, its packed with starters,
mains and desserts, and encourages joint preparation by
parents and children by way of fun activities. Its written in
both English and Italian, too, so you can brush up on your
language skills as you go. 12.99, www.amazon.co.uk
One of the best things about the

winter months is being able to
layer up with gorgeous knitwear, an
outlandish scarf and a big, chunky
overcoat. Part of the Autograph
collection for men at M&S, this
buttoned coat was created by Balli,
a family-owned wool manufacturer thats been
operating out of Tuscany since 1948. Its luxury
wool and cashmere fabric, and removable fauxfur collar, combine to make a jacket that has
both the warm and the wow factor.
179, www.marksandspencer.com
TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THIS MONT
Top 3 ideas for 1

VALENTINES
Valentine was a 3rd-century Roman saint

who has come to be associated with
love. He is also known to guard against
fainting, epilepsy and plague
DO A ROMANTIC JIGSAW
Completing a jigsaw together can
be a fun and romantic way to spend
a rainy afternoon in winter, especially if
that afternoon happens to fall on or around
the 14th of February. This delightful jigsaw
puzzle captures an idyllic setting in Verona,
the city where the worlds most famous
couple, Romeo and Juliet, fell in love. And
with no fewer than a thousand pieces to
compile, itll give you the perfect excuse to
cuddle up and put your heads together. 9,
www.amazon.co.uk
VERDI VS SHAKESPEARE
Two of the most iconic names in th
arts sphere are brought together in
new DVD/Blu-ray compilation, Verd
The Shakespeare Operas. The Italian
composer was a big fan of the Bard
and created musical versions of tw
of his plays, Macbeth and Othello, a
another following one of his recurr
characters, Falstaff. Productions of
all three are presented here, from
(respectively) London, Barcelona a
Glyndebourne. If youve struggled
decipher the works of Shakespeare
these rousing operas paint them
in a whole new light. 29.99
(DVD)/34.99 (Blu-ray),
www.amazon.co.uk
SMART COFFEE IN BED?
BUY THIS!
Making the perfect cup of coffee has never been easier, thanks to a clever
new bean-to-cup machine from those kitchen geniuses at DeLonghi. The
PrimaDonna Elite pairs with your smartphone or tablet (iOS or Android),
enabling you to personalise your drink, create a prole and even create new
recipes from your handset. If youre not quite ready to be so down with the
kids just yet, you can also operate the machine via its touchscreen. Either
way, a delicious brew is guaranteed. 1,499.99, www.johnlewis.com
HANG ON LADS,
How cool are these red, white and blue, Mini-shaped

chopping boards! Inspired by the classic Michael Caine lm
The Italian Job, the set of three boards are smooth on one side
to allow for easy chopping and slicing, and feature detailing of
the windscreen, grille, headlights etc of these legendary 1960s
cars on the other. With these in your kitchen armoury, you
cant fail to be inspired. Just dont go blowing the bloody oven
door off. 11.99, www.ndmeagift.co.uk
LIVING IN A CAVE
Ever wanted to live like
Fred Flintstone? Well, book
a few nights at the Grotta
Palazzese Hotel and youll
get your wish large parts of
it are housed inside a cave.
These limestone caverns,
beneath the ancient clifftop
town of Polignano a Mare,
have enchanted travellers
to the region for centuries.
Nowadays, they provide the
perfect backdrop for enjoying
a seafood lunch while looking
out to the Adriatic Sea. Rooms
from 120 per night, www.
grottapalazzese.it
THS TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THIS MONTHS TOP 3...THIS
A BOTTLE OF WINE, OR TWO?

Twos company, so the saying
goes and we reckon this duo of
Italian wines from Zonins vineyards in
Vicenza go rather well together. Presented
in a stylish gift box, theres a light and
refreshing 2014 Pinot Grigio, as well as
an intense, fruity 2013 Montepulciano.
Weve heard it said that you should never
mix white and red grapes, but Valentine's
Day falls on a Sunday this year, so you've
got all weekend to get through them
49.99, www.24studio.co.uk
SEEK MINIMALISM IN LOVE

This poster may be minimalist,
but the message is loud and
clear: Veni Vidi Amavi is Latin for
I Came, I Saw, I Loved, making this
artwork the perfect gift for a couple
whove just moved into a new home
or the ideal addition to your own
love nest. Its handmade, too, which
gives it a certain added charm.
Various sizes are available. From
7.37 (frame is not included in the
price), www.etsy.com
NEWS
EVENTS IN FEBRUARY 2016

One of the rst signs of spring is the almond blossom in Agrigento, which is as
good a cause for celebration as any. In Naples they will be ghting the common
cold with wine, while in Catania they will remember the martyr SantAgata
1
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5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
ALMOND BLOSSOM
FESTIVAL
1-8 February
Agrigento
While the basis of this
week-long festival in
Agrigento, Sicily, is
the spring awakening
and, specically, the
blossoming of the
almond trees (believe
us, its a sight to
behold), theres so much
more to see and do.
Youll be treated to an
international folklore
festival packed with
song and storytelling,
a parade of traditional
Sicilian carriages,
a food expo and a
programme of evening
theatre performances.
No wonder the event
has been running
successfully for more
than 70 years!
15
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21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
MAR 1
2
SAINT BIAGIO DAY SAINT AGATHAS

3 February
FEAST
Mugnano di Napoli
We bet you didnt know
there was a patron
saint of the throat! His
name is Saint Biagio,
and on this day many
towns and villages
across Italy ask for his
blessing to protect
their throats against
ailments. Brilliantly,
they do this by eating
leftover panettone and
drinking wine. Which,
to our mind, is a much
more favourable way
of fending off sore
throats than sucking
on a menthol lozenge.
Visit Mugnano di Napoli,
near Naples, to witness
a spectacular reworks
display.
3-5 February
Catania
Italy is no stranger to
spectacular religious
festivals, but this
one probably tops
the lot indeed, its
considered one of the
most important religious
events in the world.
Agatha of Sicily was a
3rd-century Christian
saint who was tortured
for refusing to give
up her faith, and the
Sicilian city of Catania
believed by many
to be her birthplace
celebrates her annually
with a vast procession
and other festivities.
To mark the fact that
Agathas breasts were
removed during her
ordeal, there are even
boob-shaped cakes!
SIX NATIONS
RUGBY: FRANCE
VS ITALY
6 February
Paris, France
Here we go again its
the opening xture
of this years big sixcountry dust-up, and
the Italians travel to the
Stade de France, hoping
to improve on last years
displays against Le
Bleus when they were
thrashed 29-0 at home
in this tournament,
before losing 32-10 in
the World Cup. If you
cant get tickets to the
match, why not kick
back in front of the
television with a nice
bottle of Peroni and a
handful of bread sticks.
Kick-off 3.25pm.
www.rbs6nations.com
CARNIVAL OF
IVREA
6-9 February
Ivrea
In the Middle Ages, the
stunning Piedmont town
of Ivrea was persecuted
by an evil baron who
starved the population.
Thankfully, it was
eventually liberated
and, to celebrate that
fact, the town holds an
annual carnival with
a colourful parade,
pipe and drum music,
and food stalls. But by
far the best bit is the
Battle of the Oranges, a
symbolic reconstruction
of the towns ght
against tyranny, where
costumed protagonists
attack each other with
the juicy fruit.
Youre guaranteed a
citrus-ly good time!
www.storico
carnevaleivrea.it
CARNIVAL OF
VIAREGGIO
7, 14, 21 & 28 February

Viareggio
Venice isnt the only
city that hosts a grand
carnival at this time
of year. Since 1873,
the Tuscan coastal
town of Viareggio
has been hosting an
annual shindig (with
the exception of a
few years), and its
now recognised as
Italys greatest folk
event. National TV
crews broadcast the
action live, which
means its not just
major politicians and
other celebrities who
get to witness the
spectacular oats,
music and merriment,
but the people sitting
at home, too.
viareggio.ilcarnevale
.com
Photograph iStock
The almond blossom arrives in Agrigento
OLIVE AND
BRUSCHETTA
FESTIVAL
SANREMO MUSIC
FESTIVAL
9-13 February
Sanremo
Eurovision is the
worlds most famous
song contest, and it
wouldnt exist without
the Sanremo Music
Festival. This glamorous
competition, rst
staged in 1951, was the
inspiration for the event
that brought us Gigliola
Cinquetti, Abba and,
erm, Conchita Wurst.
Traditionally, the winner
of Sanremo has gone
on to represent Italy at
Eurovision as Cinquetti
did in 1964 with Non ho
let. So its not just the
notes that soar at this
competition, the stakes
are pretty high, too.
CIOCCOLENTINO
11-14 February
Terni
What better way to show
your Valentine how much
you love her (or him)
than by whisking her (or
him) off to this fabulous
festival of chocolate? As
youd expect, tastings,
talks and tips are the
order of the day. (Just
dont go overboard
remember that chocolate
is an aphrodisiac!) But
the best part is that the
event takes place in the
city of Terni, Umbria,
whose patron saint is
yep, you guessed it, Saint
Valentine.
www.cioccolentino.com
MILAN FASHION
WEEK
11-18 February
Milan
Nothing divides opinion
like high fashion: you
either think its fabulous
or ridiculous. Whichever
side of the fence you sit
on, you cant deny its an
entertaining spectacle
watching supermodels
traversing a catwalk
clothed in the latest
weird and wonderful
garments. Milan is, of
course, the centre of the
sartorial universe, so
tickets for this weeks
events will sell like hot
cakes. If youre unlucky,
you could always do
some celeb spotting on
the streets around the
venues or wait until
the next event in the
summer.
www.milanfashion
weeklive.com
VERONA IN LOVE
14-16 February
Verona
Another option for
lovebirds on Valentines
weekend is this
delightful annual
festival, which sees
Verona home of Romeo
and Juliet, of course
transformed into a
hotbed of romance. All
across the city, there are
gestures intended to set
hearts autter, from red
lanterns to thousands
of love letters pinned
on walls and buildings,
themed restaurant
menus to a programme
of free concerts. If youre
looking for the perfect
place to ask a certain
question, youve just
found it.
www.veronainlove.it
SAINT FAUSTINOS
DAY
15 February
Brescia
Put away those roses
and chocolates: Saint
Valentines Day is over
now, and its the turn of
the worlds singletons
to celebrate. Theyve
adopted Saint Faustino
as their patron, so if you
see any signs for a party
bearing that name, youll
know that romance is
strictly off the menu.
Faustino is also the
patron saint of Brescia,
and the northern Italian
town celebrates his
day with fun, food and
reworks. Were guessing
you dont have to be
single to attend this one.
21 February
Spello
If youre passionate
about Italy, chances
are you love olives
and bruschetta two
of the countrys most
celebrated foods. In
which case, you shouldnt
miss this annual shindig
in the medieval walled
town of Spello in Umbria.
So proud are the local
farmers of their produce
that they parade through
the streets on decorated
tractors; and theres also
music and dancing. But
make no mistake, the
star of the show will be
the food we guarantee
youll have never tasted
olives and bruschetta
this good!
Please note that the dates of all events are subject to change. If you plan to attend, check events are going ahead before you travel. All attempts are made to present the correct details.
VIEWPOINT
A summer nights dusk falls on the Grand Canal in Milan and the cafs that line the waterside
prepare themselves for another evenings brisk trade, but it wasnt always so peaceful
Photograph iStock
Today, this is just a beautiful place to be, but these waterways were
once the very arteries of Milan, carrying the citys lifeblood around
its body. Today, Milanese will walk, drive, or take the bus to the
Naviglio Grande for an aperitivo after work; in times gone by, many
of them would have been spending their days on boats on the canal,
transporting goods around the city and there wouldnt have been any
nice cafs for them to stop at for a sundowner either
Unusually for a large European city, Milan has no river. It is

connected to the Po Valley river system by a series of canals, of which
the Naviglio Grande (you will not be surprised to hear) is the most
important. This canal connects the city to the River Ticino, which skirts
the west of the city as it descends from Lake Maggiore to the Po. And
it was along this route that the building materials for the Duomo,
notably marble from Lake Maggiore, were brought into the city.
ITALIA!
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Let the flavors of Italy
dance in your mouth and

sing in your heart on a
Ciao Laura Culinary Vacation in Italy!
From a one-day cookery lesson in Amalfi
Coast and Sorrento to a weekly gourmet
getaway in bella Toscana, plan your next
delicious escape to a culinary destination in
Italy now. Your tastebuds will thank you!
Please visit our website
www.ciaolaura.com
+01 239 887 9055
info@ciaolaura.com
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LETTERS TO ITALIA!
ON THE ROAD AGAIN
I have just returned from a driving holiday
through Tuscany. The weather was variable,
but the driving was great fun and myself
and my partner stayed at many fantastic
hotels along the way using the Italia!
Guide to Tuscany as a source of inspiration.
However, some of the entries are now
somewhat out of date (I think I purchased
it in 2014). Will Italia! be updating the
Guide in the future? Id like to take my
girlfriend back to Tuscany for another road
trip in the summer of 2016.
The Immaculate
Conception
Gavin Thorpe, via email

Gavin, youre in luck. We are starting work on the new
and updated Italia! Guide to Tuscany in the New Year
and it will be on sale in April.
WEBSITE WOES
NTH L
ETTER
FEB
2016
OF T
FEAST OF THE
IMMACULATE
CONCEPTION
I am a long-time subscriber
of Italia! magazine. I read
each issue cover to cover with
delight and after I am nished
I give the issue to my 87-year-old mother to read,
whose parents were from Lake Como.
In the December 2015 issue on page 14 you
have a very accurate description of the December
8th Feast of the Immaculate Conception as
it is celebrated in Italy, except for one very
important point. You describe the feast day as
the conception of the baby Jesus. The Feast
of the Immaculate Conception celebrates the
solemn belief in the Immaculate Conception of the
Blessed Virgin Mary. It is universally celebrated on
December 8th, nine months before the feast of the
Nativity of Mary, which is celebrated on September
8th. It is one of the most important Marian feasts
in the liturgical calendar of the Roman Catholic
Church and is celebrated worldwide.
Keep up the great work that your magazine
does on providing all of us with comprehensive
articles on all of the regions of Italy! All of your
contributing writers are fantastic!
John Luciani, Florida
MO
HE
The Immaculate Conception, by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
Share your Italian experiences with us, and tell us what you would like
to see in the magazine, by sending your photographs and letters to
Last year I purchased some panettone from

Puglia Shop Online and wanted to do so
again this year. However when I tried to
make a purchase using the URL given
(www.pugliashoponline.com) I had the
message that this was not recognised. Do
you, therefore, have an up-to-date address?
Your assistance would be very much
appreciated.
Peter Belloni, via email
Weve just checked the www.pugliashoponline.com website
and all seems to be working ne now. Were sure it was
just a temporary aberration.
KEEPING ON COOKING
My wife is a fantastic cook, and Im
looking forward to another Christmas
roast lovingly prepared. This year were
taking inspiration from Italia! magazine
and cooking pheasant. Thank you for
Do you have a road trip to Italy planned for 2016?

Do write and tell us of your plans!
your monthly supply of Italian recipes I

consider them to be part of the backbone
of the magazine as it gives those of us who
can only afford to Italy once or twice a year
a taste (no pun intended!) of the country
here in the heart of England.
Alistair Horton, Worcester
We do hope you enjoyed your Christmas pheasant, and
that you will enjoy another year of recipes from Italia!
magazine in 2016.
ITS AN ART LIFE

Its been great to see that over the past
year or so youve increased the amount of
coverage of art and culture in Italia!. The
principal reason for travelling to Italy for
my husband and I is to visit galleries and
museums. We particularly enjoy your Fast
Art and Fast Culture features and intend
to base a touring holiday around them next
year. My husband has just retired so were
going to blow the budget and go for six
weeks. Italia! really is an inspiration for us
and we look forward to every issue.
Jennifer Mulholland, via email
We do appreciate that we are lucky to have in Joe
Gartman and Freya Middleton two writers who know their
subjects inside out and love their work with Italia!
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Pheasant is an underrated meat that is tasty,

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S P E A K I TA L I A !
GAZZETTA
ITALIA!
In the third instalment of our reprised bilingual column, Anglo-Italian Tom Alberto Bull
considers the importance of the town square to Italian life
La vita in Piazza
Life in the Square
Quando si pensa alle piazze in Italia, saltano in mente

quelle pi famose Piazza San Marco a Venezia, Piazza
Duomo a Milano, Piazza del Popolo a Roma. Sono tutte
intrise di storia, e vi si trovano monumenti importanti.
Ma questo non tutto. In tutta Italia le piazze sono
diventate centri di vita sociale, un punto di ritrovo
essenziale per gli abitanti del posto.
Qui nel Regno Unito, appena il sole estivo si fa
intravvedere, la gente corre al parco pi vicino per fare
un picnic. In Italia, invece, soprattutto nel sud dove
hanno la fortuna di un clima ben pi caldo, tutti vanno
senzaltro alla piazza principale del posto.
In passato si notava questa tendenza soprattutto la
domenica. Mentre le donne si riunivano in chiesa per la
messa, gli uomini approfittavano delloccasione per andare
in piazza per una partita di carte e per bersi un aperitivo con
gli amici. Questo fenomeno si ripete ancora nelle piccole
cittadine dove si conservano le tradizioni tramandate di
generazione in generazione. E significativo che un romanzo
di Antonio Tabucchi del 1975, che ripercorre la storia di tre
generazioni di una famiglia toscana, ruoti attorno ad una
piazza. Il titolo stesso, Piazza dItalia, si ispira ad una piazza
omonima a Montecatini Terme.
I bar e i ristoranti pi frequentati in ogni angolo della
piazza sono il punto migliore per osservare la gente che va e
viene o per vedere un conoscente che incontri. Certo, questo
era del tutto normale prima dellavvento del cellulare
quando era meglio andare incontro agli amici invece di
cercare di contattarli.
Oggi le piazze rappresentano il fulcro delle attivit
serali. Esse permettono ai giovani di godersi una serata
non troppo costosa allaria aperta con una bottiglia di
vino, lontani dalla musica assordante delle discoteche, e
quindi offrono una proposta interessante per le persone
con una cultura basata, come si sa, sulla necessit di fare
una bella chiacchierata. In una piazzetta di Napoli ho
perfino visto persone che avevano delle bancarelle dove
vendevano castagne e caramelle alla folla. Non si pu
immaginare una scena simile nel Regno Unito. Credo
che questi venditori sarebbero accusati di bighellonare
in un luogo pubblico e costretti ad andarsene subito.
Certamente ci vuole una licenza dalle autorit
competenti per unattivit di questo genere.
La piazza in Italia non solo il punto centrale di
una citt. La popolazione si prende cura della piazza, e
in compenso trova uno spazio che tutto per loro. La
cultura e la piazza si intrecciano al punto che si pu
togliere un italiano alla piazza, ma non si pu togliere la
piazza ad un italiano!
When one thinks about Italian piazzas certain famous

squares come to mind San Marco in Venice, Piazza
Duomo in Milan, Piazza del Popolo in Rome. All
steeped in history and homes to major landmarks.
But this doesnt tell the full story. All over Italy town
squares have become central to social life, providing
the core for the local population to thrive in.
Here in the UK its commonplace run to the
nearest park for a picnic as soon as the summer sun
emerges. But in Italy, especially in the south where
they are aided by a warmer climate, the place to be is
without doubt the town square.
In times gone by, Sundays were the best time to
see this in action. While the women congregated in
church for their weekly mass, the men would take the
opportunity to head to the piazza for a game of cards
and a drink with the locals. This phenomenon can
still be found in small towns which have maintained
the traditions that stretch back for generations. It is
significant that a 1975 novel by Antonio Tabucchi,
which charted the history of three generations of
a Tuscan family, revolved around a piazza. Its very
title, Piazza dItalia, was inspired by a real square in
Montecatini Terme.
With often the most popular bars and eateries
situated in the corners of a town piazza, they provide
the perfect vantage point to see people coming and
going and keep an eye out for acquaintances. This
would have been the norm before the days of mobile
phones when you were better off finding your friends
than trying to contact them.
Nowadays squares have become a hub for nighttime
activity. Allowing young people to have a cheap night
outdoors with a bottle of wine, away from the loud music
of the discos, is an attractive proposition for a culture
that is renowned for enjoying a natter. In a small square
in Naples I even found people who had set up makeshift
stalls selling nuts and sweets to the crowd. One cant help
but think what would happen in the UK. I predict that
you would be moved on before too long for loitering in a
public space and the vendors would be certainly expected
to produce a licence on request from the authorities.
The Italian piazza is so much more than just a
town square. The community looks after it and in
return they have a space that very much feels like it
belongs to the people. The culture and the square
have become intertwined to the point where you can
take the Italian out of the piazza, but you cant take
the piazza out of the Italian!
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L I V I N G I TA L I A !
Homes in
Apartments
Well-built, comfortable and great value for money, an Italian apartment can
make a wise buy. Whether youre looking for somewhere urban, coastal or rural,
Fleur Kinson guides you through some of the practicalities
Photography iStock, unless stated
talys property prices are lower now than they

northern lakes, for example), many stately old period
were eight years ago, and current exchange rates
villas have been tastefully re-vamped for the modern age
allow non-euro buyers like yourself to get even
and split into separate living accommodation.
more property for your money, so you might
We privacy-loving Brits often wrinkle our noses
well ask: why should I think about buying
at the word apartment, prizing splendid isolation
an apartment? Surely with the market conditions
and suspecting that any form of shared property will
so favourable, I should be nabbing myself a luxury
be somehow second-rate. But this is not the dominant
farmhouse or a big townhouse somewhere? Well, of
attitude across continental Europe, where apartmentcourse you could, and if thats what youd like, go for it.
living is a stylish norm. Rest assured that Italian
But for many would-be buyers at our tentatively postapartments are well-built, comfortable and quiet.
recession moment, financial caution
City-central buildings are often
remains a guiding principle. Spending
centuries-old, with thick stone walls
less and buying smaller have become
that guard against neighbourly noise.
a bit of a habit. So a large property
Small-town and village homes that
in Italy, even while prices are so
have been divided into apartments
good, might still feel like a big scary
tend to be similarly solid. In suburbs,
splurge. A nice little apartment,
modern apartment buildings in
however, can feel like a modest,
concrete might be less beautiful
prudent buy.
on the outside, but theyre usually
And indeed, a prudent buy it
not less sound-proof on the inside.
would be. Italian apartments have
Italians dont consider apartments
lots to recommend them. Prices
to be a second-class property option,
are low, value-for-money is high.
and builders plan for peace and quiet
Construction is usually excellent,
in their construction.
comfort is assured. And location can
be just about anywhere. Apartments
OUTDOOR SPACE
arent restricted to cities and the
With Italys climate being what
seaside. Many large old buildings in
it is, the nations apartments are
small towns and villages have been
frequently made even more appealing
divided into generously-sized and
by the inclusion of an outdoor space
well-restored apartments. And in
such as a balcony, patio, terrace or
some places with a very long tradition Prices in Venice remain high
private courtyard. That might not
of attracting foreign visitors (the
be the same as having a whole
Desirable locations like San Remo

have become more affordable
TREMEZZO
Type of property Apartment
Number of bedrooms 2
Price 230,000
Location Tremezzo
Contact Casa Travella Ltd. 01322 660988
www.casatravella.com
This lovely 2-bedroom apartment forms part of period villa of
only 4 apartments and is located just a few strides from the lake
at Tremezzo, with lovely lake views and only just over the hour
from Milan airports. The apartment provides about 80sqm of
accommodation which includes a living room, kitchen, 2 bedrooms,
bathroom, and has 2 balconies. The property, which sits in a quiet
area of Tremezzo also benets from a cellar and communal garden
and is being sold fully furnished. Although you cannot reach the
property by car, there is parking about 80 metres away which can
be rented to have a dedicated space. This is a beautiful apartment,
just a short distance from both the lake and all amenities and with
superb lake views, ideal for both personal use or to provide rental
income. Ref 3839.
Apartments can be much cheaper and

easier to maintain than standalone houses
garden or a field of olive trees to call

your own, but it will require far less
looking after!
As well as usually being a lot
cheaper to buy than a detached
property in the same location, an
apartment can also save you quite a
bit of money in the long run. Most
British buyers in Italy are looking
for an old country house to call their
own, but these types of home can
require quite a lot of maintenance.
If the roof gets damaged or the
electrics go wonky, the owner has to
cover the whole cost of their repair.
Then theres the upkeep of land and
your responsibility. The spese del

condominio, or apartment expenses
fee, is a pre-set annual charge paid
by all apartment-owners in the
same building to cover all manner
of things. The cleaning and upkeep
of shared spaces such as corridors,
lifts and gardens, the maintenance
and repair of drains, the boiler room,
the roof and so on all these are
covered by the spese del condominio.
The burden of cost is shared, and
spread over time, so theres never a
sudden huge bill to face alone in the
wake of something going wrong. Be
sure to ask you estate agent about an
Expensive problems such as fixing the roof are

never going to be wholly your responsibility
THE DOLOMITES, VILLANOVA
Type of property Apartments
Price 290,000 300,000
Location The Dolomites, Villanova
These magnicent 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom apartments, of which
only 2 remain for sale, are being built to the highest standards (they
will be certied to an A+ standard of energy efciency) in the
small town of Villanova, Borca di Cadore, about 8km south of Cortina
dAmpezzo in northern Veneto. The wooden building uses the latest
methods to provide the highest comfort standards, including triple
glazing, under oor heating, ceramic tiles and a centralised pelletred boiler to achieve a maximum heating cost of 350 per annum.
The properties have just been completed and are ready for occupation.
Ref 3448.
so on. It all adds up. An apartment,

meanwhile, almost always costs less
to maintain. To start with, its less
likely to have stood empty for any
significant length of time, and more
likely to be in a good state of repair
when you buy it.
MAINTENANCE COSTS
Then theres the fact that all
maintenance costs for the whole
building are split between all the
owners of its various apartments.
This means that expensive
problems such as fixing the
roof or landscaping the grounds
are never going to be wholly
apartments spese del condominio before

you buy it.
Note that many Italian
apartments are sold ready-furnished.
This can save you the expense
(and time) of furnishing the place
yourself not to mention the
logistical difficulties of hauling
heavy furniture up to an apartment
on a higher floor. Of course, it can
also deny you all the fun of choosing
the furniture you want, and if this
matters to you then you should
obviously seek an unfurnished
property. Do be aware that theres
a difference between the British
conception of unfurnished and
Casa
ravella Ltd
Founded in 1987 on Lake Como

Specialists in many areas of Italy
LEP Law provides comprehensive legal advice to

UK based clients with interests in Italy
Our legal services

Real Estate acquisitions in Italy UK and Italian
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enquiries@leplaw.co.uk
www.leplaw.co.uk
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with 25 years experience

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Victory House, 99-101 Regent Street, London W1B 4EZ
Villa Lupo, Contrada M. Montanari, Le Marche

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WATER WELL AND BREATHTAKING 360 PANORAMA
This former farmhouse is situated in a spectacular hilly landscape (300 meters above sea
level) and only 20 minutes from the beautiful beaches of the Adriatic Coast. This gated,
secluded, private 2.500m2 property is set amongst olive, fruit and pine trees and offers a
unique and breathtaking panorama of sweeping countryside and medieval villages.
This luxury 4 bedroom villa has been completely and tastefully restored and comprises
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www.villalupo.it forsale@villalupo.it
Email us at lindatravella@hotmail.co.uk
or call us on +44 (0)1322 660988
visit us at www.casatravella.com
CUPRA MARITTIMA
Type of property Apartments
Number of bedrooms 1-2
Price 250,000 350,000
Location Cupra Marittima
These new build apartments are located in an exclusive beach front
location in Cupra Marittima, directly facing and just 10 metres from
the beach, some 50 metres from both the station and all services
and less than an hour from either Pescara or Ancona airports. The
properties, which is in the nal stages of completion, are being
nished to a very high standard and include underoor heating and
cooling, solar panels for heated water, double glazed windows, and
security entry phone. Apartment A is on the rst oor with its own
independent entrance provides about 43sqm of accommodation,
consisting of a living room with corner kitchen, double bedroom with
small terrace of about 11sqm facing the sea, bathroom and storage
room: 250,000 . Apartment B is on the ground oor and provides
about 63sqm of accommodation, consisting of an entrance hall, living
room with corner kitchen, double bedroom, further bedroom/study,
bathroom and storage room and garden of about 69sqm partly to lawn
and ready for automatic irrigation and lighting, with a further paved
area of some 37sqm for BBQ area: 325,000. Garages are available
separately in the underground car park if required. Ref 3831.
VENICE
Number of bedrooms 3+1
Price 2,600,000
Location Venice
Contact Casaitalia International +39 0743 220122
info@casait.it www.casait.it
Prestigious apartment with elevator located on the main oor of an
historic palazzo in the centre of Venice with a 100sqm grand salon, a
living room, sitting room, kitchen, dining room, three bedrooms and
two bathrooms. Fully renovated, it is still graced with original frescoes
and nishings. Storage area of 47sqm.
City life gives you the benets of

having shops on your doorstep
the Italian notion of that word.

In gastro-minded Italy, where the
kitchen is a semi-sacred place,
vacating owners are likely to take
not just all their furniture when
they move out, but also their fridge,
cooker and kitchen cupboards.
Dont expect all white goods to
be in place when you move into an
unfurnished property! Clarify with
your estate agent precisely what will
and wont be in your new kitchen
when you move in.
CITY SLICKER
Apartment homes are available all
over Italy, but as you might expect,
they are particularly common in the
nations most populous or desirable
spots the seaside, the lakeside,
ski resorts and city centres. In all
four settings, apartments offer good
value-for-money and generally
great holiday rental prospects too.
But city-centre apartments have
an additional clutch of advantages.
Firstly, they can save you masses
of time. If what you want is a
holiday home in Italy, you can
much more quickly get to and from
a city apartment than a house out
in the country. You can probably
fly directly to the city and swiftly
reach your flat by public transport,
rather than facing a ninety-minute
drive out to a farmhouse after
you land. Frequent short visits,
weekends away, are generally much
more feasible.
If its not a holiday home that
youre after but a full-time new life
in Italy, a city apartment makes a

wise first move. Its harder to feel
isolated, bored or lonely in a city;
theres too much going on and too
many people around. Your Italian
language skills will get lots of
practice, but at the same time youre
more likely in a city to be able to
find fellow speakers of English
during those times when you just
want to speak the language of home.
Whats more, with all shops and
services on your doorstep, youll
more quickly get to grips with the
Italian way of doing things than you
might out in the wilds.
A balcony will help you make

the most of the ne weather
HOLIDAY RENTALS
City apartments, as you might
expect, enjoy particularly strong
rental prospects. Your tenants
Photograph courtesy of Marnie and Cynthia Wells
Italian city apartments, like

urban homes everywhere, are
particularly good at holding their
value. Theyre usually the last
property type to sink in price when
a recession lingers. And, of course,
they rise in price when times
are good. This is because theres
almost always more demand for
urban homes than there is a supply.
People never stop wanting to live
in cities, particularly given that
cities generally offer the greatest
job opportunities. And you cant
just keep building more and more
homes in cities to meet demand, as
space is limited. So urban homes
are always a good investment.
The first-to-rise/last-to-sink price
dynamic of city properties was borne
out very clearly in Italy over recent
years. As the trickle-down effects
of the international financial crisis
slowly began denting property
prices all over the country (albeit
not dramatically), it was homes in
the most coveted cities such as
Rome, Venice and Florence that
were among the very last to sink in
price (and even then, by not quite so
much as elsewhere).
Marnie and Cynthia

enjoying life in Rimini
OUR APARTMENT LIFE
anchester-based sisters Marnie and Cynthia Wells co-own a

two-bedroom apartment in Italys perennially popular Adriatic
seaside resort of Rimini. They enjoy frequent visits to the
apartment, together or separately with friends, and offer
holiday rentals when theyre not there.
What drew them to Italy, and to Rimini in particular? I first came
to Rimini on a friends crazy hen-party weekend about eight years ago,
Marnie recalls. I hadnt been to Italy much before then. A week in Rome,
a weekend in Venice not much beyond that, really. I had no idea what to
expect from Rimini, but I loved the place immediately. It had two sides to
it. There was the hedonistic fun of the beach and the bars, but then there
was the quiet old town centre full of pretty buildings, and even some ancient
Roman bits scattered about. I loved the two different worlds existing side by
side. And, of course, the weather was fantastic!
Cynthia and I are both widows now, and I thought, Its time we had
some fun, and did something crazy. So I suggested we buy a flat in Rimini.
To my amazement, Cynthia went for the idea straight away. We looked into
what holiday rentals were like in the town, and we discovered that they
were really great. We target mainly Italian clients, as theyre the ones who
most come to Rimini, and we use a locally-based agent to sort all that out,
as neither of us speaks good-enough Italian. It works out well. We tell the
agent when were going to be visiting, so that they dont rent out those
weeks, and they take care of everything else.
The shortest visit that either of us would ever make would be about
three nights, I think. Yes, the journey from the airport to the apartment
is pretty short and quick, but even so, you want some proper time in
Rimini to unwind and enjoy yourself. A week is better. Then theres time
to explore other nearby places, too. We love going inland to a little village
called Montescudo where theres one of our favourite restaurants, and we
sometimes go up the coast to Cesenatico or Ravenna, or pop over into San
Marino for the novelty of the place.
Weve met with nothing but friendliness in Rimini. Yes, there are a lot
of young people who come here for a wild time, but theres still something
a bit innocent and wholesome about the town. Its still a great place to be
if youre older like us. The Italians are very respectful of older people, and
dont seem to exclude them from anything. Were out late at the cafs like
everyone else. We have a lovely time. Buying an apartment in Rimini turned
out to be not so crazy after all!
TOP TEN CITIES FOR APARTMENTS
2
4
10
ROME: population 2,750,000
Property in Naples is expensive,

but the cost of living is relatively low
Italys brash, loud, vibrant capital is

a condent, thick-skinned place, secure
in its achievements and completely
unsurprised to receive 12 million visitors
a year. For all Romes expense and
congestion, a high proportion of ex-pats
who settle down here for a while never
go home again. Property prices are, as
you would expect, very high. Apartments
range from 2,500-5,000 per sqm,
with one-bedroom places asking about
300,000 on average; two-beds about
400,000. Holiday rental prospects are
excellent, as are long-term lets to students
or professionals.
1
PALERMO: population 650,000
FLORENCE: population 370,000
Noisy, bustling Palermo is Sicilys

capital and the islands biggest city,
superbly set on a wide bay. Formerly a
Maa stronghold, its a much improved
and revitalised place these days. The
citys architecture is full of exotic
elements testament to Sicilys colourful
past and there are lots of attractive old
properties to be restored. Government
grants can cover your restoration costs,
but applications can take years to be
approved. Apartments are inexpensive,
starting at about 1,000 per sqm and
rarely going above 2,500 per sqm.
One-beds ask less than 100,000.
8 Stuffed full of exquisite paintings,

sculptures and churches, Florence is a
magnet for lovers of Renaissance art and
architecture. The British have long adored
this capital of Tuscany, and theres no
shortage of them here, along with other
ex-pats. Property prices in Florence are
high, having long shown stable, steady
growth, but the city is considered a good
investment. Tourists visit at all times of
the year, and there are also innumerable
students to rent to. A one-bed apartment
might ask 230,000; a two-bed 350,000.
For all its loveliness, note that Florence
can be crowded and trafc-choked.
NAPLES: population 1,000,000
VENICE: population 270,000
3 Zesty, colourful Genoa has thrived

on seaborne trade for 1,500 years and
is Italys second largest port. Eclectic in
food and architecture, this cosmopolitan
city stretches for miles along its cluttered
shoreline, with the mouth-watering
resorts of coastal Liguria never too far
away. For property, Genoa can be one of
the cheapest spots in Liguria, with larger
properties offering particularly good
value. One-bedroom apartments ask about
150,000 on average; two-beds about
230,000. Buyers hoping to let might
consider long-term tenants, as well as the
modest holiday rental market here.
Magnicently set on a breathtaking

bay beside a totemic volcano, Naples is an
exuberant and thoroughly beguiling city.
Its cheerful, free-spirited populace smiles
in the face of poverty and laughs at the
rules of the road. Ex-pats generally steer
clear of Naples, fearing its petty crime
and trafc chaos. But its an intensely
colourful spot, and handily close to Capri
and the Amal Coast. The food is glorious
and the cost of living low. Lots of people
want to live here, and property is more
expensive than you might expect. Onebedroom apartments in nice areas ask
around 190,000 on average, two-beds
about 260,000. Investors should consider
long-term lets to locals.
9 Often deemed the worlds most romantic

city, Venice is a uniquely beautiful place
that never leaves you once youve visited.
Crumbling, ood-prone and difcult to
live in, it nonetheless draws thousands of
rapturous ex-pats and millions of dazzled
visitors every year. Property prices are skyhigh, but holiday rental prospects superb.
Prices are astronomical on the Grand
Canal, and lowest near the train and bus
stations, in Cannaregio, and in other
less-touristy areas. Lovely old buildings are
generally high-maintenance and
prone to damp. Newer developments on the
citys periphery can be sleek and
well-designed. Expect most one-bed
apartments to ask at least 300,000.
TURIN: population 900,000
BOLOGNA: population 380,000
PERUGIA: population 170,000
7 Inexplicably overlooked by foreign

tourists, Bologna is a lively and prosperous
city with a striking red-brick medieval
centre. Home to Italys best restaurants
and Europes oldest university, Bologna
is genial, cultured, well-paced and easygoing. It offers a very high quality of
life, but living costs can be substantial.
Property prices have risen steadily, and
the city is considered a good investment.
Long-term rental prospects from students
are very good. One-bedroom apartments
ask about 170,000 on average, with twobeds about 250,000.
10
MILAN: population 1,300,000
2 Milan is Italys wealthiest and probably

best-dressed city. The capital of nance,
fashion, design and media, this is a
business-minded metropolis driven by
cool-headed workaholics in razor-sharp
suits. Sleek, fast-paced Milan might not be
physically beautiful (beyond its dazzling
duomo), but it offers comfort and quality
at every turn. Shopping, nightlife and
the arts scene are world-class, and the
lovely northern lakes arent too far away.
Milans property is pricey, with one-bed
apartments asking 200,000, and two-beds
about 320,000. Lots of old palazzi have
been converted into stylish ats.
GENOA: population 600,000
4 Enjoying relatively fresh urban air at

the foot of the Alps, industrious Turin
has elegant boulevards, baroque palaces,
sleek boutiques and French cuisine. Its
an appealing and underrated place, with
a lively caf scene and access to great
skiing. The outskirts are dominated by
characterless apartment blocks, but the
centre is attractive. Property prices are
quite reasonable. One-bed apartments go
for 120,000 on average; two-beds about
200,000. Long-term rentals to southern
Italian migrant workers or students are a
better bet than short-term lets to tourists.
bewitching capital city is a

smallUmbrias
place betting this region of tiny
settlements lled to the brim with history

and elegant architecture. Population-wise,
Perugia is only Italys 24th-biggest city,
but it deserves inclusion here because
it offers such good investment. Its not
overpriced, it has lots of tourists, lots
of students both giving good rental
prospects and it gives easy access to
glorious surrounding countryside (where
property is more expensive than in the
city itself). One-beds average around
100,000, two-beds 180,000.
MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO
Price 1,380,000
Location Madonna di Campiglio
Restored loft of approximately 112sqm in total, in the main square
of Madonna di Campiglio, comprises open plan living area with
panoramic balcony, two bedrooms, two bathrooms and a private
covered parking space.
ORVIETO
Price 1,150,000
Location Loro Piceno
Property in the heart of Orvieto, comprising entrance hall, 87sqm
apartment on the rst oor plus another on the second oor of
250sqm, with a 44sqm terrace. Right near the escalator.
The walled town of Orvieto
Attractive outdoor space is a bonus
could be long-term (local people),

medium-term (students and
visiting businesspeople) or shortterm (tourists) depending on
which clientele you wish to target.
Short-term lets to holidaymakers
are particularly useful to foreign
owners such as yourself, because you
can come and stay at the property in
between, and arrange clients around
your own visits.
City properties have a special
advantage when it comes to holiday
make your apartment more appealing

to visitors. Bear them in mind during
your property hunt. An outdoor
space such as balcony, patio, terrace
or courtyard is always much desired,
and worth paying extra to have.
Distance from the water, the slope
or the city centre is a huge factor.
The closer the better. And if not
close to the attraction itself, then at
least close to a swift public transport
connection. Refurbishing your
apartment before renting it out will
City properties get visitors all year, many people

take city breaks during the colder months
rental prospects, and thats the
length of the rental season. While
homes in the countryside, on the
seaside or on the lakeside can
generally expect to have rental
clients from May to October, and
ski homes during the winter, city
properties get visitors all the year
round. Plenty of people take city
breaks during the colder months.
Cities never stop being interesting
just because the weathers cool,
and many tourists like to avoid the
summer crowds.
Whether you want to be in a
city or anywhere else countryside,
seaside, lakeside or mountains there
are certain features that will always
greatly enhance its desirability. Dont

scrimp on materials or labour, as
every penny you spend improving the
place will prove a good investment
on subsequent rental returns. And
finally, what about size? As a rough
general rule, two-bedroom tends
to be the most requested size for a
holiday apartment, but of course
there are always clients for places
bigger and smaller!
USEFUL CONTACTS
Casaitalia International
www.casait.it
Casa Travella
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FA S T C U LT U R E
The Antikythera
Shipwreck
One startling sight, for me, was what seemed to be the Farnese Hercules
it turned out to be an almost identical sculpture, but three centuries older
The Farnese Hercules
Photography Pat Gartman unless otherwise stated
he set sail from Delos, perhaps,

or Pergamon, or Ephesus. She
was bound for the Bay of Naples.
She was a large ship for her time,
about 50 metres in length, with a
cargo capacity of 300 tons or more. She was
a sturdy vessel, but quite old, having been
built two centuries before this, her final,
voyage. She was fully laden with marble
and bronze statuary, gold, jewellery, elegant
glassware and ceramics.
It is not clear whether the cargo was
loot from Roman military action in the
Eastern Mediterranean, or trade goods sold
by Greek merchants to Roman middlemen.
In those days, early in the 1st century BC,
the Roman Republic, though torn by civil
strife at home, was nevertheless expanding
into the Greek world. And wealthy Roman
aristocrats were mad for Greek luxury
goods. They were mad for Greek culture,
as well; and this mania continued well
into the Imperial era. Virgil modelled his
Aeneid on Homers epics. Wealthy Romans
imported Greek tutors for their children.
The major Roman gods were the Greek
Olympian deities with Latin names. The
Romans took Greek technology, improved
it, and with their characteristic technical
brilliance, created marvels of architecture
and engineering.
But the old freighter was not destined
to deliver her cargo. Off the Aegean island
of Antikythera, in a storm, she broke up and
sank, coming to rest on an underwater shelf
40 to 50 metres deep. There the ship and its
cargo remained for nearly 2,000 years.
In 1900 another vessel sought shelter
from a storm in the lee of Antikythera; this
ship carried sponge-divers on their way
home from the African coast. Anchored in
a protected spot, they waited out the storm
by practising their trade, and found, rather
than sponges, the arm of a marble statue.
The Antikythera
Device
ABOUT
THE WRITER
The Hercules from the shipwreck
JOE GARTMAN is a
freelance writer based
in Utah. A passionate
amateur of art and
history, and an avid
traveller, he spends much
time in Italy.
NAMA Machine dAnticythre 1 No author provided. Marsyas assumed (based on copyright claims). Licensed under CC BY 2.5 via Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:NAMA_Machine_d%27Anticyth%C3%A8re_1.jpg#/media/File:NAMA_Machine_d%27Anticyth%C3%A8re_1.jpg
The site has been sporadically explored

and excavated in the 115 years since
the wreck was discovered. Many of the
items recovered are displayed in the
Archaeological Museum of Athens. The
ship originally carried at least 36 marble
statues, many bronzes, and other treasures
of antiquity. One startling sight, for me,
was what seemed to be the familiar figure
of the Farnese Hercules, currently in the
Naples Archaeological Museum. It turned
out to be an almost identical sculpture, but
three centuries older than the Farnese giant,
which was made for the Baths of Caracalla
in about 217 AD. The heros traditional
pose dates back perhaps to a lost 4th
century BC bronze original by Lysippos.
Something else from the wreck was
almost overlooked: a lump of bronze,
badly corroded. When it was cleaned
and analysed, it turned out to be a finely
geared, highly sophisticated machine
for calculating the position of celestial
bodies on any selected date, displaying
the phases of the moon, predicting
eclipses, and correlating between different
calendars. Nothing even remotely like it
has survived from antiquity. This is the
famous Antikythera Device, the worlds
first analogue computer. What marvels of
invention might it have inspired in the
Romans, had it not spent two millennia at
the bottom of the sea?
Clockwise from
top left: Perugia
from the Corso
Vannucci; Rafael/
Perugino fresco;
Perugia from the
Mercato Coperto;
the Sala Diomede
in the Casa
Museo di Palazzo
Sorbello; Etruscan
gate; outside
the Casa Museo;
Minerva Ramirez
Di Montalvo by
Giulio Pignatta;
stairs leading to
the centre of town
Image Ranieri di Sorbello Foundation
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Perugia
With a tangible history dating back to Etruscan times,
Perugia, the capital city of Umbria, had more than enough
to keep Lorenza Bacino busy for a long weekend
itting on the marble steps of the centrally located San Lorenzo

Cathedral, soaking up the sun and the atmosphere while enjoying
a traditional piadina with prosciutto, was the perfect way to begin
my visit to Perugia. As I gazed across the Piazza IV Novembre,
I felt as though I was watching a United Colours of Benetton advert
with groups of beautiful young people from around the globe congregating,
chatting, laughing and eating in the pedestrian main street, Corso Vannucci.
Theyre here to study. Perugia has had a university since 1308 making it
one of the oldest university towns in Europe. Since 1921 there has also been
a University for Foreigners, which was initially set up to teach Italian art
and culture. In 1992, this became an integrated part of the University of
Perugia and now, as a consequence of this elevation in status, boasts a much
wider and varied studies programme.
Today, theres a particular buzz in the air as frantic preparations for
the annual Eurochocolate Festival are under way; the sound of hammering
echoes through the streets, and stalls are springing up at an alarming rate.
Laying aside my map, I decide I am going to wander through the back
streets, to see what I can find and to escape the chaos and noise of the city
centre at the same time.
I soon stumble across the charming Via della Viola, a narrow street and
clearly a hub of cultural and artistic creativity. Contemporary graffiti and
Photography Lorenza Bacino unless otherwise stated
48 HOURS IN
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
FRONTONE GARDENS AND

ABBEY OF SAN PIETRO 2
Corso Cavour
At the end of Corso Cavour, youll come
across the Frontone Gardens. Traditionally
this was where academics and thinkers
would meet to discuss and debate
philosophical issues. Nowadays its more
of a place to enjoy an early evening stroll
and discuss more mundane matters with
other dog owners. The gardens are opposite
the Abbey of San Pietro, the cloisters and
monastery of which house the Faculty of
Agricultural studies. Its well worth taking
the time to have a walk around the cloisters,
but do go inside the basilica itself too.
Here is a high-ceilinged and very grandiose
nave with 18 granite columns, dating
from AD 966 and followed by centuries of
architectural additions, plus a wealth of
Umbrian paintings and sculptures.
THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF

PERUGIA (M.A.N.U.) 3
Piazza Giordano Bruno, 10
+39 075 5727141
www.archeopg.arti.beniculturali.it
Also along the Corso Cavour is the
Archaeological Museum, with its vast
collection of prehistoric, Etruscan and
Roman artefacts. Youll nd curious
collections here for example, Giuseppe
Belluccis extensive amulet collection
pertaining to anything from superstition,
folklore, religion to witchcraft, pregnancy
and myriad mystical disciplines, bronze-age
urns and pots, and gorgeous 2nd century
glass goblets. There are also sweeping
views across the valley from up here.
MINI METRO TRIP 4

As an alternative to the escalator access
to Perugia, try a mini-metro ride. The kids
will love this curious, driverless contraption
that whizzes along electric rails from
various points in town to the outskirts,
terminating at a theme-park. Its a bit like
a roller-coaster and I had fun just getting
on and seeing where I ended up!
Photograph Nobile Collegio del Cambio
PERUGIA CITY BUS TOUR 1

Piazza Italia
+39 345 0417038
Small red buses depart from Piazza Italia
for regular guided tours around the city.
You can choose a city tour, a chocolate
tour or an archaeological tour. Do note
that the bus is small at times it can
barely get through Perugias narrow streets
and I found myself clutching the seat in
front and gritting my teeth as it careered
down some of the outside roads! Forget
about taking photos, but this is a useful
introduction to the city to get an idea of
what it is you want to see and do.
DONT MISS
UMBRIA JAZZ
One of the
most important
jazz festivals
in the world
takes place in
Perugia over a
10-day period
in July. The best
of Italian and
international
jazz is
showcased each
year between
the Arena Santa
Giuliana, the
Pavone Theatre,
the Oratorio
Santa Cecilia,
Piazza IV
Novembre and
the Carducci
Gardens.
Perugino frescoes at the Nobile

Collegio del Cambio
paintings adorn the walls, among all

sorts of fun artistic creations some
hanging, others protruding.
And I thoroughly enjoy the
edgy feel it gives this Etruscan and
Medieval town. And the silence
I am the only person traipsing the
streets on this sunny morning.
Perugia perches on a high hill,
which was typical of the way the
Etruscans who were the people
who originally founded Perugia,
some time before the Romans
The best views I found are from

Via Indipendenza, Porta Sole and
the terrace of the Mercato Coperto
(the Covered Market).
Perugia is best explored on foot,
with access from the car park below,
in Piazza Partigiani. A modern
escalator runs from the piazza, up
through the ancient Rocca Paolina,
before bringing you eventually
to Piazza Italia in the centre of
town. This is a remarkable way to
appreciate the building skills of
Perugia is best explored on foot, with access

from below, in Piazza Partigiani
arrived chose the locations
for their towns. And its still a
higgledy-piggledy kind of place,
multi-layered in its structure, with
cobbled streets leading down to
arches and towers, some of which do
actually date back to Etruscan times.
Its easy to navigate, however, and
there are various spots where youll
be able to glimpse the surrounding
Umbrian hills and cities, such as the
beautiful Assisi, in the distance.
the Etruscans as you can wander

through underground passages.
To me it feels such an unusual
way to reach a city, and yet for the
inhabitants, who use the route on
a daily basis and are apparently
oblivious to its uniqueness, its just
the way you get around town.
From the Piazza Italia, you can
find your way to the top of Corso
Vannucci, from where you can begin
your walking tour of Perugia
WHERE TO STAY
SANGALLO PALACE HOTEL 5

Via Masi, 9
+39 075 573 0202
hotel@sangallo.it
www.sangallo.it
A comfortable 4-star hotel located just
at the foot of the escalators in the Rocca
Paolina. It has a very good restaurant, a
pool and a gym.
The Fontana Maggiore
Etruscan mask
LOCANDA DELLA POSTA 6

Corso Vannucci, 97
+39 075 572 8925
www.locandadellapostahotel.it
Dating from the 1700s, this hotel is very
central and has 40 rooms of varying sizes
and comfort. There are lots of restaurants
nearby, and indeed everything you might
possibly need during your stay is within
easy walking distance.
Inside the Galleria Nazionale dellUmbria
The Frontone Gardens
LA GALLERIA NAZIONALE
DELLUMBRIA
There are two levels of 20 rooms in
this impressive collection, housing
works from the 13th to the 19th
century. Theres something eery
yet pleasurable about wandering
these rooms alone, admiring such
significant works by artists such as
local Il Perugino, (Pietro Vannucci),
Pisano and Raffaello, to name but
a few.
IL PALAZZO DEI PRIORI

(THE TOWN HALL)
Just in front of the Cathedral,
overlooking Piazza IV Novembre,
this Gothic-style palazzo was built
in the early 1300s. Facing the piazza
you can see the carved emblems
of Perugia: a griffin and a bronze
lion. Inside is the gorgeous Sala
dei Notari, with its painted arches
and frescoes retaining surprisingly
bright colours.
IL NOBILE COLLEGIO
DEL CAMBIO
The historic seat of the Exchange
Guild is right next door to the
National Gallery of Umbria. Whats
really interesting in here are the
significant frescoes by Il Perugino,
but also of note are the collections of
ancient and medieval silver and gold
coins, and the scales that were used
to weigh them.
Perugia is protective over its
Perugino frescoes and you are not
allowed to photograph them. They
are lovely to admire from close up
though, and I managed to secure an
official photograph for the purposes
of this piece.
SAN LORENZO CATHEDRAL

AND FONTANA MAGGIORE
Descending the steps of the Town
Hall, youll find yourself at the
Fontana Maggiore and San Lorenzo
Cathedral. This medieval fountain
was built between 1277 and 1278
as part of Perugias independence
celebrations. It has 25 sides,
depicting saints, signs of the zodiac,
Biblical scenes and events from
Roman history.
To the right of the Cathedral,
theres a small entrance which takes
you to the Pozzo Etrusco, the Etruscan
Well. Its narrow, dark, dank and
quite an amazing feat of hydraulic
engineering. The date is a bit
DONT MISS
PERUGIA FLOWER
SHOW
Takes place
each year in
mid-September
and is famed for
its exhibition of
rare and unusual
plants. The
Expo happens
in the Frontone
Gardens, just
opposite the
Agricultural
faculty of the
University,
in Borgo XX
Giugno. There
are tasting
areas, and wine
and food tasting
laboratories,
conferences and
competitions. It
is also a chance
to take part in
cooking classes
with flowers.
HOTEL BRUFANI PALACE 7

Piazza Italia, 12
+39 075 573 2541
www.brufanipalace.com
This is a beautiful 5-star luxurious hotel,
quite probably the best in the centre of town.
It opened its doors in 1884 and has had
many illustrious guests in its time, including
the Queen Mother and Prince Albert of
Monaco. Its worth going in and sitting in the
stunning bar area to enjoy a mulled wine or
fresh chocolate trufes made by the chef.
HOTEL LA ROSETTA 8
Piazza Italia, 19, Perugia
+39 075 572 0841
larosetta@perugiaonline.com
www.larosetta.eu
Another 4-star, centrally located hotel
with comfy clean rooms and an excellent
restaurant, again within walking distance
of everything.
USEFUL ADDRESSES
Pozzo Etrusco, Piazza Danti, 18
+39 075 573 3669
Galleria Nazionale dellUmbria,

Palazzo dei Priori,
Corso Pietro Vannucci, 19
+39 075 5866 8415
www.perugiacittamuseo.it
Casa Museo di Palazzo Sorbello,
Fondazione Ranieri di Sorbello,
Piazza Piccinino, 9
+39 075 5732775
promoter@fondazioneranieri.org
www.casamuseosorbello.org
Nobile Collegio del Cambio
Corso Pietro Vannucci, 25
+39 075 572 8599
info@collegiodelcambio.it
www.collegiodelcambio.it
http://turismo.comune.perugia.it
9
10
WHERE TO EAT
BOTTEGA DEL VINO 9

Via del Sole, 1
+39 075 571 6181
www.labottegadelvino.net
Local resident and journalist Diletta Paoletti
advised me well on where to eat in Perugia.
At Porta Sole, behind the San Lorenzo
Cathedral, youll nd the friendly Bottega
del Vino. I went in on my rst evening for
an aperitivo which rapidly turned into a
prolonged appointment with dinner the
prosciutto served was to die for and I couldnt
resist the offer of tagliatelle and porcini
mushrooms. The atmosphere is cosy and
warm, candle-lit, with wooden beams. A
small window overlooks the Palazzo dei Priori
and I could have stayed all night. The owner
knows everyone and I felt so at home that my
subsequent evenings were spent hanging out
at the bar, chatting to the locals about the
different avours and cuts of the prosciutto,
the provenance of the olive oil and which
wine I should be drinking with what. Oh, and
the cheesecake with pears and chocolate is
simply mouth-watering.
O
O
OSTERIA A PRIORI 10
Via dei Priori, 39
+39 075 572 7098
mangiabene@osteriaapriori.it
www.osteriaapriori.it
The Osteria a Priori is just as friendly and cosy
as the Bottega del Vino. I turned up, again
on Dilettas recommendation and, although
they were fully booked, I was given a stool
at the bar, where I could enjoy local Umbrian
food and watch it being prepared. Plates of
delicious-looking cheeses and meats were
whizzing by and, every now and then, the
owner would hand me a piece of something
scrumptious to try. This is a family-run,
friendly place. The ambience is casual, and
I enjoyed the tastiest lentil soup ever, while
being tempted by home-made chocolate and
jam tarts. A curious collection of weirdlooking liqueurs decorated the bar, with
medicinal-sounding names like Viparo, Amaro
Sibilla, Varnelli and various types of Grappa.
Its booked most nights so phone ahead.
O
O
6
8 1
7
PALAZZO DELLA PENNA

Your ticket from the Galleria
Nazionale dellUmbria also gets
you into the modern art gallery,
Palazzo della Penna. Here youll
find temporary and permanent
art collections from the 1960s to
the 1990s. Check whats on here
at www.perugiacittamuseo.it/it/
palazzo-della-penna.html
Map data 2016 Google
DONT MISS
MUSEOLABORATORIO
DI TESSITURA A
MANO GIUDITTA
BROZZETTI
Tessitura a mano
means weaving
by hand and
Giudetta
Brozzetti was
an expert in the
art. If you are
interested in
Perugias past as
a textile town
or you want
to learn the art
yourself do
pay this place
a visit. www.
brozzetti.com
MERCATO VIANOVA 11
Via Giuseppe Mazzini, 15
+39 075 573 0445
www.mercatovianova.it
I enjoyed lunch at Mercato Vianova, which
serves extravagant-looking sushi dishes
as well as local Umbrian dishes. I went for
local, but Im told the sushi is excellent.
The ambience is modern, chic, luminous
and stylish. It has a very different vibe from
the other places I ate at, but its pleasantly
located in the centre of town and popular.
Allies in 1945 for his contributions.

This aside, there are many rare
editions, manuscripts, private papers
and collections here. Furnishings
and lamps date from the 18th
century and there is an impressive
porcelain collection including
Chinese porcelain from the Qianlong
era (circa 1775). Upon arrival, youre
welcomed into the main foyer, where
theres a bookshop, and a terrace
overlooking Perugia and Assisi.
11
KEY TO
RESTAURANT PRICES
(full meal per
person, not
including wine)
Up to 25
O
O
26-50
O
O
O
More than 50
O
uncertain but is thought to have

been built around the 4th or 3rd
century BC. Its 37 metres in depth
and five metres in diameter and
supplied the whole city with water
during Etruscan times. Your ticket
also allows you entrance to the San
Severo Chapel a short walk away. The
tiny chapel is well worth a visit as it
houses a wonderful fresco by Raffaello
and Il Perugino, and youll probably
be able to contemplate it in private as
its a bit off the main drag.
CASA MUSEO DI PALAZZO
SORBELLO
This was one of my favourite places
in Perugia. Dating from the 16th
century, the Palazzo Sorbello is a
beautiful private house which has
belonged to many different Perugian
noble families in its time. In 1780
it was purchased by the Marchesi
Bourbon di Sorbello. It has an
impressive library with frescoed
ceilings. One of the reasons I loved
it so much is because, completely
by chance, I stumbled across one
of my fathers books in the historic
private collection he was a war
correspondent, and Uguccione
Ranieri (1906-1969) collected such
works as he too was involved in
the War, and was decorated by the
ORATORIO DI SAN
BERNARDINO
The Oratory has a gorgeous
Renaissance faade and was built
in honour of San Bernardino of
Siena. The interior is Gothic and
the altar is formed by a 4th-century
paleochristian sarcophagus.
Perugia is extremely rich in ancient
history. There arent many places
where the Romans are thought of
as relatively modern! But there are
contemporary surprises too. There
used to be, for example, a textile
workshop for women embroiderers
in Umbria between 1904 and 1934,
run by Romeyne Robert Ranieri
Marchesa di Sorbello.
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
You can fly to Perugia with Ryanair
from Stansted on a Sunday, Monday,
Wednesday or Friday. The flights leave at
7.40am, so its a very early start (though
the flights back are at more sensible
oclock). Viable alternative airports
are Bari (Dublin and Gatwick as well as
Stansted) and, more notably, Pisa, which
has connections to most international
British airports.
BY TRAIN
The train from Pisa to Perugia takes
anything from three and a half to four
and a half hours, depending on the
change at Florence.
Staircase at the
Palazzo della Penna
Embroidered cushions tell of

Umbrias history in textiles
My fathers book in the Casa Museo library (the red one)
Photograph Sorbello Ranieri Foundation
Enjoying abstract orange

at the Palazzo della Penna
The Sala Carlo III in the Casa

Museo di Palazzo Sorbello
The faade of the Oratorio di San Bernardino
Part of the porcelain collection within the Casa Museo
FA S T A RT
What is a cathedral?
There are many churches in every Christian city, but
only one cathedral. The cathedral is a church of the
highest rank. It is where the bishop has his seat.
ince the advent of Christianity, cathedrals

have been important not just for religious
purposes and for the faithful, as one would
suppose, but also in a secular sense. They
were a spectacular display of the citys power
and wealth where they are located.
There are many churches in every Christian city,
but only one cathedral. The cathedral is a church of the
highest rank; it is where the bishop has his seat. Indeed,
the name cathedral derives from the Greek word kathedra
(in Latin, cathedra), meaning chair, seat, or throne. The
cathedral is the main central church for a diocese. The
other churches in a city are parish churches (responding
directly to the cathedral administration and run by a
parish priest and some clergy), or connected to a specific
monastic or mendicant order (Franciscan, Dominican,
Augustinian, etc). Next to the latter, there is always a
complex where the monks or friars live and work. If a city
is quite small they quite possibly wont have a cathedral;
but they will have many churches, and these will be
under the jurisdiction of a bishop and be connected to the
cathedral in a neighbouring town.
Considering that before the unification of Italy the
Italian peninsula had been a patchwork quilt of individual
city states, dukedoms and kingdoms, and all these
separate places had a cathedral, it is only logical that
this building would become a sort of yardstick by which
the greatness, importance and wealth of a city could be
assessed. The cathedrals were paid for by the people of
the city, not the church, through taxes. The members of
the committees elected to oversee the construction of the
cathedrals were a mixed bag of clergy and leading lay
members of the city. Commissions for the architecture,
embellishment and funding was a public affair.
Interestingly, the century that is most represented
in a cathedral, through the architecture and artistic
decoration, will typically be the one at which the
economic power of the city was at its the height.
Florences cathedral, Santa Maria del Fiore, was
completely overhauled, totally restyled and rebuilt in
the 1300s. The foundation stone of the new construction
was laid in 1296 and the first architect was the
internationally renowned, home-grown Florentine native
Arnolfo di Cambio. The structure that we see today
was finished about 70 years after, excluding the dome.
Florences economic power and business expansion was
Lucca
Cathedral
Pisa
Cathedral
The coat of arms of the

Cardinal and Archbishop
of Florence
at its most important in the 14th century,

and it would never reach the same economic
prosperity again.
Pisas economic height was from the
1100s to the late 1200s, which is precisely
when their huge magnificent Romanesque
cathedral dates to. It was one of the most
spectacular buildings on the peninsula
when it was first finished. Sienas cathedral
architecture was completely finished by the
very early 1300s, again when the Republic
of Siena was at its most powerful. Human
nature has always been and always will be, the
same, throughout the ages. Is the competition
between the greatness of the cathedrals any
different to the modern city complex of
having the tallest building in the world? Or,
the individuals drive to have the largest boat
in the world as a display of excessive wealth?
There is also a ranking of importance
amongst the cathedrals. The Pope can elevate
a cathedral by awarding the bishop of that
cathedral the title of Archbishop. This means
that the cathedral in question has jurisdiction
over other cathedrals in the area. Florences
cathedral was given this title in 1419 by Pope
Martin V; Pisa was given this honour much
earlier, in 1092 by Pope Urban II.
In all cathedral squares you will know what
rank the cathedral is and who the residing
bishop as they will always have their coat of
arms displayed on a building in the cathedral
square. Usually, there are two crests, one for the
current pope and one for the current bishop.
How can you tell which is which? Look at the
hats and the colours surrounding the crest. The
hat for a bishop and a cardinal above the crest
is the same. Called a galero, it is based on the
pilgrims hat. The colour green is for a bishop
and red for a cardinal (some bishops also hold
the title of cardinal, as is the case currently in
Florence). There are tassles hanging down from
the galero, and if there are six tassles on either
side, it is a bishop. If there are ten on either
side, then it is an archbishop. For a pope there
is the papal tiara above the crest.
These cathedral squares breathe the history,
politics, spirituality, power play and patriotism
of the cities they represent, which is why
the square is one place that should never be
overlooked in any city, above all in Italy.
ABOUT
THE WRITER
FREYA MIDDLETON is
a private tour guide
and writer who lives in
Florence, Tuscany. You can
read her blog online or
learn more about her tours
at www.freyasorence.com
Photography Freya Middleton
Florences cathedral, Santa

Maria del Fiore
Though the rain in Rome can be at times

quite torrential, snowfall is a very rare
event. In 2012, Adrian Mourby was lucky
enough to arrive in the Eternal City just as
the locals were working out how to cope
with the white stuff
Although Umbria and Lazio had looked bleak and wintry

Id not expected snow in Rome. Apparently, neither had Rome
now was floating down

as my train edged its way
into Roma Termini. Id
travelled down from Paris
that day and although the
landscape of Umbria and Lazio had
looked bleak and wintry most of the
way, Id not expected snow in Rome.
Apparently, neither had Rome. As
the carriage doors released us, people
stepped out in amazement as large
flakes came floating down through
the darkness.
The platform was noisy
with children sticking their
tongues to try and taste this rare

phenomenon. Others scrabbled
to make snowballs out of a barely
millimetre of ground cover.
Even the Trenitalia officials were
gazing around in wonder. Out in
front of the station in Piazza dei
Cinquecento the congestion was
even greater as all of Rome queued
for taxis. Roma Termini is always
taxi chaos, but this evening the
drivers were being mobbed and the
price of a journey was rocketing.
Having no wish to queue for
20 minutes or pay so many times
over the odds for a two-kilometre

journey, I set off on foot to our hotel.
It was a pleasant walk Id done in the
past, down Via Cavour and through
that long tunnel under the Quirinal
Gardens. But Rome on my previous
strolls had not been remotely
slippery. This city was not prepared
for snow. There were no gritting
lorries, and those of us in our lovely
Italian shoes, designed for posing
in restaurants and cafs, suddenly
realised that the Eternal City was
being transformed into a seven-hill
skating rink.
Photography Adrian Mourby
in he
The snow was several inches deep. A few shopkeepers had

shovelled the pavement clear but the roads remained ungritted
It took me half an hour to make

it to the turn for Hotel dInghilterra
but, despite a dear wish to lose my
luggage as soon as possible, I slid
and skated on a bit further to Piazza
di Spagna to see the Spanish Steps.
Six months before, when I was last
in Rome, the steps had been filled
with flowers and young couples
eating ice cream and gazing down
the length of Via dei Condotti.
Now in the darkness it was just
as crowded as usual but the couples
were now in dark quilted parkas, out
to witness the snow settling on their
city, Several police cars had parked up
near Fontana della Barcaccia just for
the hell of it. Their drivers were just
standing about with coffees swapping
stories and jokes. Rome seemed to be
grinding very happily, very prettily,
to a halt.
On reaching Hotel dInghilterra
I was relieved to drop off my bags
in the lobby and be fussed over. The
staff behaved as if I had trekked
down Everest to get here. I asked if
they thought the snow would last
overnight. The fresh-faced concierge
explained that he had being trying
to find out. This weather was
unprecedented in his lifetime.
According to his father the last time
it snowed was 26 years ago. Tonight
no-one knew anything.
The dInghilterra has a lovely
old fashioned feel to it. The actual
building has stood here since the
16th century as a guest annex for
a nearby palazzo, but its been a
hotel since 1845. Byron stayed here
and so at different times did
Hemingway and Elizabeth Taylor.
I like checking in at a hotel where
heavy drinkers have preceded me.
They always have the best taste.
With its Murano chandeliers
and gilt-framed mirrors this is a
warm and cozy place to hole up on a
winters night. I was looking forward
to a hot bath followed by a stiff preprandial martini in the small 1950s
style bar downstairs. My wife would
be arriving later from the airport,
having flown out from London
straight after work for our romantic
weekend. I was worried that the snow
might somehow prevent this.
But in fact I was asleep in front of
RAI when Kate was shown into our
room. It was extremely late. Her nose
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

GINGER
Via Borgognona, 43-44
+39 06 6994 0836
www.ginger.roma.it
A trendy bistro restaurant decorated all in
white that offers great salads and the best
fresh fruit smoothies and organic teas.
JARDIN DE RUSSIE
Via del Babuino, 9
+39 06 328881
www.roccofortehotels.com
Stylish garden restaurant of the Hotel de
Russie overseen by chef Fulvio Pierangelini,
who provides his own wine and olive oil
from Tuscany.
was red and the furry collar on her

coat sparkled with melting flakes.
Is it still snowing? I asked.
Its an avalanche, she
exclaimed. I was ages at the airport
and then I got the last metro to
Spagna. The taxi-driver wanted 50
euros to drive me from Termini so I
was lucky to have gotten it. Theyre
closing all the metro lines.
Why? Theyre underground.
I dont know. The concierge guy
said they closing everything, even
the airport.
SUNLIGHT AND SNOW
The next morning I half expected
the snowstorm to have been a dream.
When I looked out of our window on
to Via Borgognona the snow would
have melted and Rome would look
just the same as ever. But as I padded
over to the window I was aware how
quiet the city sounded. No delivery
lorries reversing, no click-clack of
high heels on the pavement slabs.
Pulling back the curtains I saw a city
transformed by bright sunlight and
snow. It was dazzling.
We had a whole day planned for
visiting favourite Roman haunts.
Getting around was obviously going
to take a lot longer than usual. I
urged Kate to wake up and make
sure her camera was charged. There
was no time to lose.
The snow along Via Fontanella
della Borghese was several inches
deep. A few shopkeepers had shovelled
the pavement in front of their steps
clear but the roads and pavements
remained ungritted. We slipped
GIUDA BALLERINO!
Piazza Barberini, 23
+39 06 488931
www.sinahotels.com
On the rooftop terrace of the Hotel Bernini
Bristol, Michelin-starred celebrity chef
Andrea Fusco has opened a new restaurant
with great food and wonderful city views.
BABINGTONS TEA ROOMS
Piazza di Spagna, 23
+39 06 678 6027
www.babingtons.com
A traditional tea room founded in 1893 by
Isabel Cargill and Anne Marie Babington, two
English women catering for English tourists.
HOTEL DINGHILTERRA
Via Bocca di Leone, 14
+39 06 699811
www.niquesahotels.com
Built in the mid 16th century as a guest
wing for Cardinal Adriano Castellesi da
Cornetos Palazzo Torlonia.
J.K. ROMA
Via di Monte DOro, 30
+39 06 982634
www.jkroma.com
The latest Italian hotel opened by Ori Kafri
in honour of his father Jonathan JK
Kafri and designed by Florentine architect
Michele Bonan.
THE ST. REGIS ROME
Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando, 3
+39 06 47091
www.stregisrome.com
Opened in 1894 as The Grand Hotel and,
according to General Manager Vincenzo
Falcone, still the only Grand Roman Hotel.
HOTEL EDEN
Via Ludovisi, 49
+39 06 478121
www.dorchestercollection.com
Much beloved of lm director Federico
Fellini, who had his favourite table on the
rooftop restaurant, the Eden reopens from a
major refurbishment in 2016.
The fates smiled on us that weekend my wifes flight

home was cancelled so we were snug in our room for two more days
and staggered for a few hundred

metres and then diverted through
the slow-moving traffic towards the
Tiber to call in at JK Place, which was
supposed to have opened by now in
the former School of Architecture on
Via di Monte dOro. As a fan of JK
hotels in Rome and Capri I was keen
to see this new one. But the builders
were still at work impressively so
this early on a Saturday morning.
Spilled sawdust was making strange
patterns in the snow outside and there
was a lot of noise within.
So we headed on to Ara Pacis
and the controversial carapace that
American architect Richard Meier
built to encase Emperor Augustus
monument to his own reign. The
last time we were in Rome it had
been closed for a function. Now it
was closed because of the weather.
However, the view down the Tiber
with snow on the trees and Castel
SantAngelo delineated in snowy
chiaroscuro prompted Kate to get her
camera out.
From here we staggered, slid
and skated our way as far as Piazza
Navona and found an impromptu
party in progress the length of that
lovely baroque rectangle. There
were buskers, toy stalls, people
selling umbrellas, children making
snowmen and even a few people
whod arrived on cross country skis.
It was as if the whole of Rome had
woken up to snow and just known
that this was the place to celebrate
it. Kate went to town on the statues
of all those river gods with their
muscles encased in snow.
We also found crowds gathered
at Piazza della Rotonda where the
Parthenon had never looked better.
Flakes of snow, stirred by the
wind, were floating down through
the roundel on its dome. We had
intended to buy coffee beans to take
home at Caff Tazza DOro but the
place was heaving and the entrance
cluttered with heaters and customers
whod brought their own blankets.
From here there was one familiar
sight we both absolutely wanted to see
in the snow: the Trevi Fountain. We
took a route via the column of Marcus
Aurelius where snow sat picturesquely
on the armour of so many carved
figures. On reaching Piazza di Trevi
we were in the crowds again and
WHAT TO SEE AND DO

THE SISTINE CHAPEL
https://italywithus.com/vatican-off-limits
+39 06 3972 3051
Italy With Us offers three hour Vatican tours
for small groups (maximum 15 pax). The
highlight is always 30 minutes guaranteed
alone in the Sistine Chapel. At 250 per
person its expensive, but its the only way
to really appreciate this great work of art.
ORCHESTRA DELL ACCADEMIA
NAZIONALE DI SANTA CECILIA
+39 06 80242501
www.santacecilia.it
The Academy is one of the oldest musical
institutions in the world. Its orchestra,
which in the 20th century was conducted
by Mahler, Richard Strauss, Sibelius and
Stravinsky, now performs regularly in
the Parco della Musica under principal
conductor Antonio Pappano.
Kate photographed more snow, lying

in white blankets on the flanks of
Oceanus horses. By now the strain of
keeping our balance was tiring us so
we headed north back towards Piazza
di Spagna. Kate wanted to get to the
top of those steps and see all of Rome
with its white roofs, but people were
falling over dramatically on the steps
so instead we diverted into Babingtons
Tea Rooms, opposite the Keats House,
for their signature extra-thick hot
chocolate. Maybe it was just because I
felt wed really earned it but it was the
perfect drink on a winter morning.
PRIVATE TOUR
The rest of our trip made the most
of the sites that you can enjoy during
Romes quieter months. We had a
private early morning tour of the
Sistine Chapel, and got very good
seats for a concert at Accademia di
Santa Cecilia. We walked around the
Colosseum (closed of course but flanked
by some very cold looking gladiators
hoping to be paid for a photo) and in
the Forum we saw the sun setting over
the snow-trimmed ruins, a mournful
scene that might have inspired Casper
David Friedrich. But nothing quite
compared with that lovely Saturday
morning when Rome woke up to its
first day of snow in 26 years.
The fates smiled on us that
weekend. My wifes flight back to
London was cancelled as Leonardo da
Vinci remained resolutely closed and
another weather system moved in
on Heathrow. So we had some extra
nights in Rome and were snug in our
room for two more days.
MUSEO DELL ARA PACIS

Lungotevere in Augusta
+39 06 0608
www.arapacis.it
The most talked about building in Rome is
a modern glass pavilion housing Emperor
Augustus 9BC altar dedicated to peace. Ara
Pacis was lost for centuries but was pieced
back together from scattered fragments in
the 20th century.
PANTHEON
Piazza della Rotonda
+39 06 6830 0230
www.turismoroma.it
Built in the 2nd century AD as a temple
and then converted as a church in the 7th
century, the Pantheon still holds the record
for the worlds largest unreinforced concrete
dome and is one of the best-preserved
buildings from Imperial times.
GETTING
THERE
BY TRAIN
Railbookers
( 020 3780
2164, www.
railbookers.
com) offer 3
nights in Rome,
plus 2 nights on
a sleeper train
from London,
from 649.
THE KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE

Piazza di Spagna, 26
+39 06 678 4235
www.keats-shelley-house.org
The house where the English poet John
Keats died and which featured in the
Jane Campion lm Bright Star is now a
museum dedicated to the Romantic poets.
There is also a library of 10,000 books and
various pieces of Keats memorabilia.
LA CASA DEL CAFF TAZZA DORO
Via degli Orfani 84
+39 06 678 9792
www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com
Founded in 1946 this is a typical espresso
bar where you can choose your coffee beans
in a back room and have them bagged up
for you to take home. The scantily clad
African woman on the outside wall of this
coffee house has become so well known she
now appears on all its merchandise.
Photograph iStock
P R O P E RT Y F O C U S
100,000-250,000
RIPATRANSONE
LE MARCHE
PROPERTY FOCUS
Italians and insiders know that Le Marche has the best
property value for money in the entire country
3-bedroom farmhouse in need of renovation near the centre of the

medieval town of Ripatransone, 15km from Grottamare, an hour from
Pescara and a little more from Ancona airport. 345sqm over 3 oors,
all linked by an internal staircase. Ground oor: Tool storage room and
cantina. First oor: Living room, dining room and large kitchen. Second
oor: 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. The property also benets from two
large balconies with panoramic views and a loft area of about 100sqm
which could be developed. About 30,000sqm (about 7.5 acres) of land,
7,000sqm with 90 olive trees, the remainder agricultural. Ref 3737.
Price 220,000 Contact 01322 660 988 www.casatravella.com
KEVIN GIBNEY MANAGING DIRECTOR OF MARCHE HOMES DIRECT

Is there a better place to be in 2016 than Le Marche? We doubt it.
Think of everything you love about Italy, and its here stunning
landscapes, mountains, beaches, culture, food, wine & truly great
peopleits even home to those great Italian shoes the World
loves! More than anything, its the genuine Italy, true to its roots
and true to a lifestyle adored by the long-time lover of things
Italian. Its peace and quiet in a not so peaceful time. Sure, Le
250,000-500,000
Marche is attractive for all the obvious reasons, but did you know this past year has
seen Le Marche have a province, Macerata, ranked 13th in Italys Top 100, and an
OECD study of Italys 22 regions that placed Le Marche in the Top 3 on Healthcare,
Environment and Safety/Security. Not bad for a region only Italy insiders know! No
matter what your Marche property preference, properties of all types await you, at
reasonable prices, from ruins-to-restore to fully-restored villas. Its a great time to
buy and great time to start enjoying your slice of La Dolce Vita.
750,000-1,000,000
RECANATI / MACERATA
AMANDOLA / FERMO
4 Bedrooms. Its enough to make you wax poetic! A rustic house with character,
sea views, mountain views, sunower elds, trees teeming with fruit, a great town
nearby, 10 minutes to the beach, easy access, privacy and an olive grove. Its Casa
Poesia, located in Recanati, the hometown of the famous poet Giacomo Leopardi.
A sizable, 300sqm restored house that dates to the mid-1800s, four bedrooms,
relaxed casual interior, ready to enjoy today. Price 499,000
Contact +39 347 538 6668 info@propertyforsalemarche.com
5 bedrooms (house + cottage). Villa Rara is an architects home and it shows.

Restoring this heritage site inspired the owners to reuse all original materials.
History is everywhere in the original features, including original frescoes,
handmade tiles and vintage doors one of which is 300 years old. State-ofthe-art comforts: underoor heating, solar panels, full insulation, double glazed
windows, all anti-seismic features, and a bathroom for every bedroom. Price
839,000 Contact +39 347 538 6668 info@propertyforsalemarche.com
50,000-100,000
100,000-250,000
CORINALDO
MONTERINALDO
This 150-year-old farmhouse, close to historic Corinaldo and Le Marches

Adriatic coast, was built with stone from the nearby river. It is used
for holidays by the present owners, but requires work to nish its
sympathetic modernisation. With a total oor area of 100sqm on 2
storeys, the house comprises a bathroom/utility room, kitchen/dining
room, lounge and 2 large bedrooms. There is a detached garage and a
lean-to, used for storage. It stands in 6,000sqm of arable land, including
nine rows of vines. A river runs alongside one side, and the other sides
are bordered by farmland.
Price 99,000
Contact info@reyitaly.co.uk www.reyitaly.co.uk
Il Borgo Vecchio is a beautifully refurbished 3-storey house in one of

Le Marches historic villages and is being sold fully furnished. It has 2
double bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and even a games room. The house has
honey-coloured brickwork, beamed ceilings and tiled oors. It has full
central heating, is lavishly equipped with all mod-cons and is ready to
move in. Upstairs has views of the glorious countryside and on clear
days the distant Sibillini Mountains come into view. The village tennis
courts are 120 metres away. Ski resorts and the Adriatic Riviera are
within easy reach.
Price 140,000
Contact info@reyitaly.co.uk www.reyitaly.co.uk
100,000-250,000
500,000-750,000
AMANDOLA
MONTEDINOVE
Il Roccolo. An opportunity to acquire a charming property with history and

surrounded by beautiful countryside, set in 1 hectare (2.5 acres) of land with
fruit and nut trees. Built in the 18th century from local brick as a hunting
lodge, with cotto ooring and oak beams throughout, the arched front door
opens to the living/dining room with original replace and wood burning
stove, a lobby area with the original hunters sink, and modern Kitchen with
glazed door to the rear portico and garden. A wide curved staircase leads to
the rst oor with two double bedrooms and a modern bathroom. One of the
bedrooms retains part of an early fresco, another the original gun shooting
windows! Property number 638 on our website. Price 220,000 Contact
+39 331 381 9509 jane@magicmarche.com www.magicmarche.com
Casa Torre looks like a castle, because thats what it is! The watch tower
has been restored over an 18-month period to combine modern services
and styling with the thrill of living in a real castle. As well as the authentic
and beautiful features incorporated into the house, there are 4 bathrooms,
5 bedrooms, plentiful seating areas inside and out and a big new pool with
stunning views. Watch towers were always built with great views and from
the house you can see for miles and can enjoy spectacular sunsets. The tower
has been sympathetically transformed into an exclusive country house where
tradition and efciency, preservation and comfort are balanced. Next to the
tower is a small building which could be converted. Price 700,000 Contact
+39 331 381 9509 jane@magicmarche.com www.magicmarche.com
P R O P E RT Y F O C U S
100,000-250,000
250,000-500,000
TREIA
CAMERINO
Habitable and restored farmhouse. Casa Crocisso is located on a small

knoll with a view on Treia and the famous Santuario Santissimo Crocisso.
The house, with more than 200sqm of oor area, is in a good condition
and habitable. At the moment, the main house is divided in two parts but
it has been used by the owners as one house, with the kitchen, dining and
living room on the ground oor and the bedrooms and a second kitchen
on the rst oor. However, the rst oor still has a separate entrance. So,
if you like, could divide the main house in two apartments. On the plot
(4,000sqm) are three other outbuildings (130sqm).
Price 200,000 Contact +39 339 101 9042
info@marchepropertynet.com www.marchepropertynet.com
Borgo Seppio. Restored farmhouse with B&B. 6 bedrooms. The old house
dates back to the 15th century, a former farmhouse built into the hillside that
has been extended over the years, with the ground oor consisting today of
former stables and cellars (including a spacious and cool wine cellar) and a
functioning bread oven. The guest house is composed in part of a restored
barn and of the reconstruction of a large ruined house, rebuilt as a shell of
terracotta blocks in a frame of reinforced concrete with the eld stones that
were the walls of former house now used as the facing. The guest house has
a B&B license and could continue to function without any changes or further
investment. Price 350,000 Contact +39 339 101 9042
info@marchepropertynet.com www.marchepropertynet.com
50,000-100,000
250,000-500,000
PETRITOLI FRACTIONAL OWNERSHIP
BELFORTE DEL CHIENTI
Casa Tre Archi is a 210sqm, 3-bedroom town house attached to the

ancient turrets and entrance arches of the charming medieval town of
Petritoli. There are three levels of outside space, including a stunning
50sqm roof terrace with sea views, 3 modern bathrooms, beamed
ceilings, central heating, plus travertine and terracotta ooring
throughout. Elegant Italian living for those who want something a little
different, and dont want to get the car out each time they go the shops
or a restaurant, but just a 20-minute drive away from blue ag beaches,
you get the best of both worlds. Price from 70,000 for a 1/10th
(5 weeks) share Contact India Hobbs-Mauger +39 331 541 3225
ifh@appassionata.com appassionata.com
Casale Paradiso. 20 minutes from Camerino, a half hour from the sea and
5 minutes from the nearby town centre of Belforte del Chienti, a comune
in the Province of Macerata, some 50km southeast of the town of
Macerata itself. The property is a characteristic farmhouse in restored
stone, to be restructured internally, with guest house, for a total of
411sqm and land of 0.7 hectares. Unique position. 5 bedrooms.
Price 495,000
Contact Casaitalia International
+39 0743 220122
info@casait.it
www.casait.it
y
More affordable, just as beautiful
www.magicmarche.com
Over 250 properties for sale in all budgets
We sell restored and unrestored properties
We are at your side throughout the process, with clear guidance and advice
Want to restore or extend? Our English-speaking
Chartered Surveyor will handle everything for you
Magic Marche
Tel: +39 331 381 9509
Email: info@magicmarche.com
Registered Agency number FM-185086
Property For Sale Marche

Marche Properties... Buy, Restore & More
Y All Property Types, All Budget Ranges

- Habitable / Partially Restored
- Fully Restored / Finished
- Ruins to Custom Restore

- Apartments / Townhouses
Y Detailed & Accurate Property

Descriptions
Y Registered, Licensed
Real Estate Agent
Y Prompt, Professional Service
www.propertyforsalemarche.com
View Now
+ 39.347.5386668
P.IVA 01534470438
Pretty, three bedroom,

stone built cottage with pool
Not far from the Umbrian village of Morra
Lovely location set on a hill, overlooking the valley from

most rooms, in Citt di Castello, Umbria (PG)
Telephone +39 0758553502 / +39 3351215263

www.ledimoreitaly.com info@ledimoreitaly.com
Australian Agency: jskepper@netspace.net.au
I TA L I A ! P R O M O T I O N
The Romantik
Hotel Relais
Mirabella Iseo
Romantic
Retreats
What better way to tell your partner that you love them this Valentines Day than to
whisk them away for a weekend in the land of love
ROMANTIK HOTELS & RESTAURANTS IN ITALY
TAILORED SERVICE,
MODERN COMFORTS,
SOPHISTICATED CHOICE
OF FOOD AND WINE,
HOTELS WITH A LIVING
TRADITION: ITS THE 19
ROMANTIK HOTELS &
RESTAURANTS IN ITALY.
A stay at Romantik Hotel
means to experience. It means
living the local way of life and
discovering traditional food and
customs. Romantik hoteliers
devote their time to guests,
creating a sophisticated and
warm atmosphere to make them

feel comfortable and relaxed as if
they were at home.
From Trentino Alto Adige
to Umbria, via Veneto, Val
dAosta, Lombardy, Piedmont,
Liguria and Tuscany, the
buildings architecture changes
from region to region because
everyone is bound to local
features, but all share the same
philosophy with a mix of
calmness, polished style, relaxing
activities and good feelings.
Romantik hoteliers know
how to create an oasis of peace
and rest amidst the chaos of the
everyday life, offering the chance,
in these frantic times, to resume
self-consciousness and regenerate.
A stay with Romantik has a
unique atmosphere, given by
great tranquility, refined lifestyle,

relaxing activities and honest
feelings, that are unique in each
hotel, depending on supply and
location because they are deeply
rooted in the respective region
and shaped by tradition and
quality consciousness.
Romantik Hotels focus
on exercise, relaxation and
nutrition, without any wellness
gimmicks. The hotels tailored
packages combine these three
crucial pillars of wellness. Hotels
with the Romantik wellness
quality seal offer an all-round
package, with fabulous natural
idylls, creative regional cuisine,
professional beauty treatments
and opportunities for fitness and
exercise. The Romantik Hoteliers
take wellness literally and
Romantik hoteliers devote their time to

guests, to make them feel comfortable
create zones of well-being where

gentle activities are the focus.
That means steam baths, saunas,
diverse physical and mental
recreations and relaxations.
Great attention is also given
to gastronomy: high standards
and superb chefs are abundant
among the Romantiks.
CONTACT DETAILS
ROMANTIK HOTELS & RESTAURANTS
+39 0521 336376
italy@romantikhotels.com
www.romantikhotels.com/Italy
I N V I T AT I O N T O
INVITATION TO TUSCANY
SIPPING A GLASS OF
PROSECCO, RELAXING
IN A JACUZZI ON YOUR
TERRACE IN THE HILLS
HIGH ABOVE THE TUSCAN
COAST, THE WORLD TAKES
ON A ROSY GLOW
Even more so if youre with
your loved one and youre
their favourite person because
you chose and organized this
holiday. But how can you be
sure that the glamorous shots
on the website will match up
with reality on the day? We
think the best way is for us to
go and check out the house and
area for you beforehand. Thats

why every one of our properties
is hand-picked and personally
visited by our staff to make sure
that if you tell your loved one
the view is fantastic, you can
be sure it is, and not of a local
building site. If you tell them
theres a charming village thats
within walking distance, you
can be sure there is and well
even make sure you know which
is the best restaurant and what
to order in the bar to look like a
local (Id say Aperol Spritz or a
Ferrari at the moment!).
I grew up in Tuscany and
when I found my perfect partner I
brought her here, to an apartment
in my village with a terrace that
looks west the important detail
to get those sunsets working for
you. We know that there are
moments in life when booking
the right property is important;

we can make sure you get
your perfect spot. If youd like
a romantic cottage and pool,
with a little hill village within
walking distance, have a look at
Casa Guelfi, featured in Cond
Nast Traveller. For a little more
isolation, with views to die for
and a hot tub under the stars, try
Argentone, high in the Tuscan
Apennines. Looking for culture?
We have some wonderful
apartments in Lucca, the city of
churches, while further south,
at Pieve di Caminino, you can
stay in an apartment carved out
of a medieval church, and enjoy
the view from a stone carved
bifora window.
Invitation to Tuscany has been
running for over 30 years, visiting
and selecting properties we find
interesting and special, and then
Every one of our properties is hand-picked

and personally visited by our staff
matching our clients to them,

to make sure you get your best
holiday. So let us help you set the
scene for your romantic getaway
and remember personal concierge
service is included with all our
bookings. Lastly, for those who are
wondering, I married the woman
I proposed to on the west facing,
sunset drenched terrace and were
still happily together.
CONTACT DETAILS
INVITATION TO TUSCANY
+39 0521 336376
info@invitationtotuscany.com
www.invitationtotuscany.com
I TA L I A ! S T Y L E
SPA ATTRACTION
Within sight of Venice, yet detached from it, stands the Bauer Palladio Hotel & Spa.
Patricia Cleveland-Peck took a relaxing break on the island of Giudecca
BY BOAT AT SUNSET
We arrive the perfect way: speeding
from the airport across the lagoon
by boat at sunset, to be delivered
directly onto the fondamenta in front

of the hotels entrance. On the way
to our room we are impressed by
the rather austere interior of the
building, with its terrazzo floors,
open brickwork walls, high ceilings
and massive public rooms. We also
notice a lovely scent. (The odour of
sanctity?) We pass a cloister and get
something of a sense of what it must
have been like as a convent.
Our first-floor room, however,
is anything but a nuns cell. It is
extremely spacious and elegant with
a Rubelli silk floral wall covering
with trellis work stencils and a
huge comfortable-looking bed. The
bathroom, with both bath tub and
walk-in shower, is also first rate, with
plenty of scented toiletries which we
learn later from the Bauers CEO,
Francesca Bortolotto Possati, come
from the cosmetic laboratory in
which soaps and perfumes branded
Santa Maria degli Angeli are made by
inmates of the local womens prison.
The mystery of the flowery smell
which assailed us on arrival is solved
the hotel is regularly sprayed with
one of the Aria di B fragrances.
We are particularly delighted
with our balcony overlooking
the gardens (second-floor rooms
overlook the lagoon) and we take
glasses of prosecco out there and
contemplate the leafy shadows as the
light fails. We see that the gardens
are extensive and look forward to
exploring them. First though, it is
time for dinner.
SEAFOOD AND WINES
The restaurant, LUlivo, serves local
fruit and vegetables, seafood and
regional wines and, although the
menu is not extensive (we would
have eaten there more often had it
been a bit more varied) the prices are
reasonable. The room is attractive
with round tables covered with long
tablecloths and subtle lighting and
the atmosphere is warm and friendly
with families of Japanese as well as
American and Italian diners.
After complimentary amusebouches of creamed cauliflower served
in cocktail glasses, we choose for
starters a beef carpaccio with celery
salad, green apple and anchovy oil
and a cream of green asparagus
soup with fennel-flavoured croutons.
The beef is good and the carpaccio

pleasant but the dressing lacks the
mayonnaisey flavour of the Harrys
Bar version. The asparagus soup, on
the other hand, is so delicious that
we order it again next time we dine
there. For our main courses we opt
for an amberjack Mediterraneanstyle with tomato, olives and capers,
served with mint and a mixed salad
and zucchini flowers stuffed with
polenta and peas and baby spinach.
Everything is cooked well and full
of flavour and, with a shared bitter
cocoa souffl with lime sherbet to
finish, we retire replete to our bed.
LUSCIOUS FRESH FRUIT
After a good nights sleep we head
for the breakfast room a cavernous
space, possibly the old refectory
but as the sun is shining we opt to
sit outside in the courtyard under a
green umbrella. The food on offer
is good and, with plenty of luscious
fresh fruit, including some of the
sweetest strawberries weve tasted,
as well as all the usual cereals,
WHERE TO EAT
CIPS CLUB
Giudecca, 10
+39 041 520 7744
www.belmond.com/
hotel-cipriani-venice
At the Cips Club, the waterfront restaurant
of the Belmond Cipriani Hotel, you can
enjoy rst-rate food and incredible views
across the lagoon at the same time.
HARRYS DOLCI
Fondamenta San Biagio, 773
+39 041 522 4844
www.cipriani.com
Harrys Dolci is an off-shoot of the famous
Harrys Bar, with excellent atmosphere and
food with prices to match.
SKYLINE BAR
Giudecca, 810
+39 041 272 3311
www.skylinebarvenice.com/en
Try the Skyline Bar at the new Hilton Hotel
for a drink with some of the best views in
all Venice.
ALLA PALANCA
Fondamenta Ponte Piccolo
+39 041 528 7719
Alla Palanca, near the Palanca vaporetto
stop, is a popular snack bar offering
typical local dishes for lunch in a friendly
ambience.
Photography Bauer Palladio Hotel
hile Venice
sinks under
the weight of
more and more
tourists, it is a
joy to find a place there that is not
only far from the madding crowd
but also beautiful and tranquil in its
own right. The Bauer Palladio Hotel
and Spa on the island of Giudecca
is only ten minutes across the water
from San Marco, yet is worlds away
from the surging hordes of tourists
and their selfie-sticks.
Giudecca is an interesting island,
and one which, after decades of being
somewhat disparaged by Venetians,
is now becoming fashionable and
attracting many artists, and such
luminaries as Elton John, Miucca
Prada and Giorgio Armani. It is also
one of the few areas left in which
you can experience something of the
authentic daily life of old Venice. In
the recent past it was home to various
factories and industrial complexes,
including a huge flour mill, a
brewery and a precision instrument
factory, but the flour mill is now the
Hilton Hotel, the brewery an art
village and the instrument factory is
drama school.
In earlier centuries Giudecca was
almost Venices little country cousin
full of market gardens, vineyards,
villas and pleasure gardens to which
patrician Venetians alone escaped
from the heat of summer before
the craze for this sort of fashionable
villeggiatura spread up the Brenta
Canal and into the Veneto.
It was also the site of numerous
convents, and this tradition of
gardens and convents is in fact
united in the Bauer Palladio Hotel
and Spa, which opened in 2006 and
is effectively a conversion of the
actual convent that extends either
side of the Palladian church of Santa
Maria della Presentazione. This was
known as the Zitelle, or the Spinsters
Church, as the convent took in and
taught beautiful girls from poor
families who, having no dowries,
might otherwise have fallen into a
world of prostitution.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO

GO FOR A WALK
Wander down the narrow calli to the warmer
side of the island and see the citizens going
about their everyday life as they have for
centuries. Take in the old boat yards and
the new galleries as you go.
FORTUNY SHOWROOM
Giudecca, 805
+39 393 825 7651
venice@fortuny.com
www.fortuny.com
Visit the Venice branch of the Fortuny
Showroom to see displays of fabulous
fabrics, and then take a stroll in the pretty
gardens behind the factory.
BELMONT CIPRIANI HOTEL
Giudecca, 10
+39 041 240 801
info.cip@belmond.com
www.belmond.com/
hotel-cipriani-venice
The Belmont Cipriani Hotel, which is
conveniently located almost next door to
Il Palladio, also has gardens that are well
worth visiting. One part of the garden here
is named Casanovas Garden because the
reprobate reputedly spent many happy
hours here with the young girls of the
Zitelle... There is a little vineyard here
which continues to produces grapes for the
famous salt red wine the salinity of the
lagoon is said to lend the wine a avour all
of its own.
CASA DEI TRE OCI
Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43
+39 041 241 2332
info@treoci.org
www.treoci.org
Almost next door in the opposite direction
is the Casa dei Tre Oci, a fascinating
art nouveau building with iconic triple
windows which now houses a rst-rate
photographic gallery.
ORTO DELLE MERAVIGLIE
Fondamenta delle Convertite, 712
www.rioteradeipensieri.org/it
As well as making cosmetics, inmates of the
womens prison (another former convent)
cultivate an organic kitchen garden within
the prison grounds and, although for
obvious reasons this is not open to the
public, the women sell their produce at the
gates. Check locally for time and days.
IL REDENTORE
Sestiere Giudecca
+39 041 275 0462
Not only the church but also the extensive
kitchen gardens attached to the monastery
can be visited. There are fewer monks
today than there used to be but it gives an
insight into how things were in the past.
yoghurts, cold meats, cheeses, plus

hot dishes of scrambled eggs, bacon
and sausages. As well as coffee and
juice we saw several people enjoying
an early glass of prosecco
Fortified, we decided to take
advantage of the hotels half-hourly
shuttle service which whisks
guests over to the other Bauer
hotel, Il Palazzo, near San Marco.
In keeping with the CEOs policy
of sustainability, the boat is an
electrosolar vessel and it transports
us in all of ten minutes to the centre
of Venice. This is a great boon
because as soon as we weary of the
crowds we head back to Il Palazzo
knowing that well soon be taken
home to our lovely hotel.
In fact I have a special reason for
wanting to return as I am booked for
a treatment in the new spa. There
can be few things (I was going to
write activities but that really isnt
really very apt) more relaxing than
a good massage and mine is very
good. It is further enhanced by the
attractive surroundings even here
Rubelli silks decorate the treatment
rooms. After the massage I am taken
to a room with a floor-to-ceiling,
one-way window overlooking the
fondamenta so that as you sit there in
a towelling robe sipping herbal tea
it is almost as if the water is lapping
at your feet. I have had many a good
spa treatment but none has ended
with such a magnificent view.
LARGE GARDENS
Our next quest is to explore the
gardens because they contribute
hugely to the hotels USP. We
find that there are in fact four
large interconnecting gardens and
that their restoration too was the
brainchild of Francesca Bortolotto
Possati. She has used a combination
of classical Italian design and
traditional English country flowers
to create this peaceful space.
Exploring, we found a big magnolia
and an enormous lime in one area, in
another old olive trees and pergola
laden with Isabella grapes and roses,
and in yet another a ghost of an
old orchard with fruit trees. Here
the grass was cut to three different
lengths the first forms a path,
while in the other two grasses and
wildflowers are allowed to seed and
grow to charming effect. We learned

that in the spring thousands of bulbs
tulips, narcissi, fritillaries and
crocuses bloom here too, echoing
the oriental carpet effect mentioned
in old documents. We also saw four
vegetable patches enclosed with
willow fences in which tomatoes and
St Erasmus artichokes were growing,
as they did in the convents hey-day.
It also becomes apparent as
we stroll around that our part of
the hotel is only one section of the
whole Palladio complex. Within
the gardens there is also the luxury
Villa F, which is composed of 11
self-contained residences, each with
butler service and equipped like a
5-star hotel. In an area surrounded
by white hydrangeas we also see
the Conventino, a more modern
building containing luxury suites.
One of the most pleasing
features in these gardens is the scent.
We take advantage of the hotels
very good all-day menu to lunch on
a sandwich and salad in one of the
charming little gazebos on the lawn.
There, we enjoy wafts of perfume
from the roses above and the nepeta
around us. Who could imagine
finding such perfect peace with busy
Venice only 10 minutes away?
INFORMATION
Patricia travelled Kirker Holidays,
which offers a three-night stay at the
Bauer Palladio from 639 per person,
including flights from Gatwick, water
taxi transfers, accommodation with
breakfast, entrance tickets for the Doges
Palace, Accademia or Guggenheim, Kirker
Guide Notes, and the services of the
Kirker Concierge. Call 020 7593 2283
or visit www.kirkerholidays.com
Discover Authentic Italy

www.citalia.com
At Citalia, we are passionate about Italy, and can condently say that no-one knows this
beautiful country quite like we do. Italy is famed for cities such as Rome, Florence and
Venice, and A-list hotspots like Lake Como and Amal, but take a step beyond the countrys
well-loved destinations and youll nd quieter spots that often go unnoticed by visitors
Alternative Amalfi Coast Little-known lake
Dramatic Dolomites
he small town of Minori, located on

the Amalfi Coast, is a new destination
for us and one that we cant wait to
shout about. Its often overlooked in favour
of glamorous Positano and Amalfi, but thats
what we think makes it so great. Minori is
a laid-back town, and its wide sandy beach
makes it a wonderful seaside retreat. If
you fancy some sightseeing, theres a 1stcentury Roman villa with well-preserved
mosaics and wall friezes. The town is home
to some fantastic dining options, too just
ask celebrity chef (and Citalia ambassador)
Gennaro Contaldo, who grew up here: When
it comes to lunch or dinner, I recommend the
lovely family-run Giardiniello for excellent fish
and seafood, pasta, fresh buffalo mozzarella and
other local specialities.
Always dreamt of seeing the Amalfi
Coast, but also have the itch to explore
Ancient Rome? Not a problem. Begin your
trip in Rome, enjoying a private guided
tour organised by us, discovering insider
secrets about iconic sites and visiting
hidden gems. Then its just over one hour
on the train to Naples before making the
short journey to Minori by car.
trip to South Tyrol might leave

you questioning whether youve
left Italian territory, thanks to its
fusion of Italian and Austrian culture
youll often hear locals speaking German,
and theres as much apple strudel on menus
as there is pasta. The region is located at
the foot of the Dolomites and the views of
the mountains from its charming towns
never get tiresome. This lesser-known gem
has flown under the radar for many years,
but now its highlights are becoming more
apparent than ever before. The town of
Merano offers markets, thermae spas and
more castles than you can count, while the
regions capital, Bolzano, invites lovers of
the outdoors to enjoy its walking trails and
bike tours, many of which can be reached
right from the edge of the city centre. Its
a top destination for foodies, too South
Tyrol boasts a staggering 19 Michelin
starred restaurants, as well as some of the
best speck (cured ham) in Italy.
ake Iseo lies to the west of Lake

Garda, and tends to be overshadowed
by its larger neighbour. But
this little lake is slowly stepping into
the spotlight, thanks to the sparkling
wine produced on its southern shores.
Franciacorta is the hottest up-andcoming wine region in Italy, and its fizz
is absolutely delicious. Lake Iseo sees far
fewer crowds than some of the betterknown lakes, so its hiking trails and pretty
towns are blissfully uncrowded.
WHERE TO STAY
THE RELAIS FRANCIACORTA
The Relais Franciacorta is set in a converted
farmhouse which dates back to 1670. Set in 15
acres of grounds, its surrounded by greenery
including vineyards that produce the Franciacorta
sparkling wine. The bedrooms come with wide
balconies to make the most of the spectacular
views. We love this hotel because you are able
to taste your surroundings with wines from
Franciacorta served in its restaurants.
7 NIGHTS B&B FROM 835pp
WHERE TO STAY
THE MINORI PALACE
The Minori Palace is located in the heart of Minori,
just a stones throw from the beach, making it the
perfect base for exploring the area. We love this
hotel because it has just been recently renovated,
cleverly marrying traditional features with stylish,
modern design touches.
To tailor-make your
Italian holiday,
call our experts on
01293 765067 or
visit citalia.com for
more inspiration
Terms and conditions Prices shown based on 2 adults travelling on specic departure dates from London Gatwick and are correct at time of print,
though may be subject to change and are strictly subject to availability. Booking terms & conditions apply see citalia.co.uk. Calls are charged at your
providers local or national rate. Mobile and other providers charges may vary. Specialist Holidays (Travel) LTD T/A Citalia. ATOL protected.
WHERE TO STAY
HOTEL EUROPA SPLENDID
Hotel Europa Splendid is a great example
of where Italy meets Austria and where old
meets new. Its central location puts all the
towns highlights just minutes away, while the
guest rooms are the perfect mix of traditional
furnishing and modern facilities. Look out for
Tyrolean and Italian evenings, where you can
enjoy regional dishes and live music. We love
this hotel because it has been run by the same
family for generations, ensuring its visitors
receive a warm and authentic Italian welcome.
RETURN TO
FORTE VILLAGE
Three years after their rst visit, Jon Bickley took his family back to Sardinia for a
week of relaxation, ne dining and lots and lots of sport.
At the Forte Village in Sardinia, theyre striving to create the perfect

family holiday to cater to as many of anyones needs as possible
Photography Jon Bickley
hat do you look for in a holiday?

Well, youre reading Italia! so I
think you enjoy a beautiful country
and delicious food, a certain
attitude to life and maybe a hefty
serving of culture. Perhaps you also like to do stuff as
well as finding time to relax and unwind. Its a lot to ask
for in one holiday, but Italy, more than most countries,
can often tick a lot of boxes. At the Forte Village in
Sardinia, theyre striving to create the perfect family
holiday to cater to as many of anyones needs as possible.
I paid a return visit with my family early this summer to
see how theyre faring this time with my checklist for
holiday success to hand.
PLENTY OF SPACE TO BREATHE
As a start point, Forte Villages location, near the
southern tip of Sardinia, is hard to beat. Set in 47
hectares of carefully tended green space, the resort
boasts 15,000 trees and over two million plants, and
has a languid air in early season with plenty of space
to breath. Look to its boundaries and you find rugged
mountains looming to the rear, before you descend
through the village towards Sardinias uniquely
sparkling Mediterranean coastline. The pristine, private,

sandy beach sits in a broad, calm bay thats rare in its
quiet expanse.
But despite what the TV programme says, its not
just Location, Location, Location bricks and mortar matter
too. Happily, the Village includes some seven hotels
and two sets of suites to choose from. We stayed in the
grand Il Castillo hotel, just a hop and a skip from the
sea. Our adjoining suites meant the kids had privacy
and reassuring proximity, while we all had beautifully
appointed rooms, with generous living area and, most
appealingly, a large balcony looking through tall pine
trees to the sea. We felt a touch smug and indulged
enjoying the luxury of these suites but a tour of the
resort with our hostess Sofia soon revealed there were a
lot of equally appealing options, each with its own twist
and claim to excellence. We tested Sofia as to which were
the best rooms in the resort. The top floor of Il Castillo
(room for an entourage and the family)? One of the
Beachcomber Suites jutting into the beach and complete
with British Butler? Or perhaps a Dune bungalow set
back from the sea in quiet seclusion? She wasnt to be
drawn each is unique and each can satisfy a particular
set of requirements. And with the use of local art,
Clockwise
from top left
this page: The
pristine beach;
delightful
individual rooms;
the legendary
bombing
contest; delicious
Brazilian
barbecue;
ex-England
all-rounder Phil
DeFreitas; Amy
and Jon sporting
suntans!
Our adjoining suites meant the kids had privacy and

proximity, while we all had beautifully appointed rooms
Clockwise from
above: One
of the many
unique rooms;
space for the
entourage in this
suite; the shfocused Rocce
Restaurant;
Amy and Ben
anticipating
their lunchtime
pizza; plenty
for meat-eaters;
beautifully
presented food;
TVs Hells
Kitchen; private
suite, private
pool; Cath and
Amy having a
poolside snack
pottery and fabrics giving every room a sense of place as

well as distinctiveness, we couldnt really disagree.
How about culture? Well, I have a confession
Sardinias full of antiquities, distinctive towns and
villages, and cultural events but with so much to hand
in the Village, I was the only one of our family to leave
its boundaries, and that just for a two-hour bike ride.
Maybe its us (although we werent alone), or the fact
that theres no actual need to hire a car, but our horizons
reduced to the cornucopia of options available at our
fingertips in the Village, and we settled into a fully
self-contained week in the resort. Perhaps a two-week
visit would encourage a more expansive outlook, but Id
admit that Italian life and its treasury of art, history and
architecture were things we failed to embrace.
Food, on the other hand, was quite a different
matter. How does 21 different restaurants sound? Most
come under the all-inclusive banner, a few attract a
supplement, but all are absolutely top notch, offering
great variety and high quality. When we visited there
was much excitement about the new Hells Kitchen
restaurant due to open when the resort hit full season.
Building on their links with Gordon Ramsay, Forte
Village now hosts the final of the Italian version of
the TV cooking talent show. Whats more, the winner

becomes the resident chef as part of their prize. This
kind of distinctive thinking crops up all around the
village and you have to raise your hat to their creativity.
For our part we enjoyed the Brazilian and Sardinian
restaurants for meaty meals that went down well with
the kids; the Rocce Restaurant for more delicate seafood
fare served looking out to sea; the ever-popular pizzeria
for lunch; and the fabulously diverse Pineta buffet right
in front of our hotel, which pleased just about everyone.
As the season progresses there are also special Celebrity
Chef nights where you can see some of Europes top chefs
in action and taste their wares, plus of course Gordon
Ramsays restaurant.
Speaking of the old footballer (Gordon Ramsay,
had a trial with Glasgow Rangers in 1984), one thing
the Village isnt short of is stuff to do, particularly
on the sporting front. Three years ago, Amy and Ben
enjoyed daily training sessions with rugby legends Will
Greenwood and Austin Healey, while I did my best to
keep up with the smattering of professional football
players on the 5-a-side court. This time round there was
an embarrassment of options for the two youngsters,
which they grasped with both hands.
Photography on these pages Sarah Lindsay
Rugby training was run by current England international Nick

Easter alongside World Cup winning legend Paul Grayson
Clockwise from
above: Rugby
coaching with
ex-England World
Cup winner
Paul Grayson;
Phil DeFreitas
takes the mic;
time for tennis;
Ben collects
his award; the
new netball
programme;
the dads touch
rugby match;
Amy collects her
award.
With rugby still at the heart of the Super Skills

Travel offer at Forte Village, this years training was
run by still current England international Nick Easter
alongside World Cup winning legend Paul Grayson.
Not content with that, Super Skills now offers netball
coaching as well, run by ex-England international Karen
Atkinson, which was hugely enjoyed by both girls and
boys. And to top it all, ex-England cricket all-rounder
Phil DeFreitas ran the cricket sessions in the afternoon.
The parents wallow in a haze of fandom mingling with
heroes past and present and even get to compete with
and alongside them in the mums and dads matches,
while the kids just get on and have a fantastic time
learning from inspiring coaches.
GRUELLING SET OF CIRCUITS
If team sports arent your game, fear not. Each day Cath
and I enjoyed (or endured?) a 9.30am workout with
the resorts irrepressible fitness instructor, Federica. A
human dynamo, Federica drove occasionally groggylooking parents through a warm-up run around the
resort before a gruelling set of circuits at pitchside for
a full hour. Psychologists observe that exercise can give
participants a sense of entitlement that leads to over-
indulgence afterwards. Well we certainly felt entitled

after each days workout and went ahead and indulged
to our hearts content. The week also held a superb
mornings guided mountain biking along the coast that
brought the inner BMX bandit out of some normally
sedate middle-aged men, while the generous provision
of tennis courts allowed us a couple of family knock-ups
that helped re-acquaint us with the kids.
The Village really does go all out to provide every
recreation you could wish for. Despite a full week, albeit
with a decent amount of time at poolside and on the
beach, we didnt make it up to the go-kart track, tenpin bowling or out on the Bianchi roadbikes. Ben and
Amy shot hoops on the basketball court, and had a mass
evening escapade on pedal boats, and I spotted a huge
octopus while out snorkelling, but we didnt get to the
paddle boards, diving, sailboats or windsurfers. Not to
mention the DJ and Make-Up Academies!
With the Chelsea FC Football School providing
formal coaching for kids and the resorts own coach
Maurizio running matches for adults and kids morning
and night, there really is never an option for sitting still
if you dont want to and 14-year-old Ben, for one,
certainly didnt!
HOME OF THALASSOTHERAPY
Wow, that was tiring! Time for some downtime. As
well as numerous swimming pools, the Aquaforte
Thalasso Spa offers the ultimate haven to get away
from all that frenetic activity. Named one of the very
few Leading Spas of the World, this is the home of
thalassotherapy treatment based on the combination
of the natural elements of sea water, marine mud, the
sun and pleasantly warm temperatures. Just idly drifting
through the different sea-oil and saline pools soon eases
away any knocks and strains and lets your mind let
move on to pressing problems like which restaurant to
dine in that night. Add an hours full body massage and
youve created a perfect afternoons relaxation.
So as the week draws to a close, how has Forte
Village measured up to our holiday checklist? Beautiful
surroundings, varied and delicious food, masses of stuff
to do, relaxation available at every turn and beautifully
appointed accommodation are all firmly ticked.
Its a wonderful playground for adults and children
alike thats hard to fault. Oh and the staff are almost
universally delightful. Okay, we skipped on the culture,
but everything else was near perfect and, to paraphrase
the song, five out of six aint bad!
Forte Village truly is a truly wonderful resort and

we enjoyed one of our best ever family holidays there
this year. Its really luxurious and you cant help feeling
very privileged to be there, even though the prices
(see below) are not at all outlandish. I would certainly
recommend a week in May/June, though if you do fancy
two weeks in high summer, perhaps hire a car as well for
a few days, just to get out and about and get that taste
of Sardinia as well as revelling in the luxury.
INFORMATION
FORTE VILLAGE RESORT
Forte Village Resort, Sardinia, offers a 7-night stay at Hotel
Bouganville from 3,615 for a family of four departing on 21 May
2016 booked through Sardatur Holidays ( 020 9940 8399; www.
sardatur-holidays.co.uk) based on 2 adults and 2 children sharing
a family bungalow on a half-board basis. Price includes return
flights with British airways from London Heathrow to Cagliari and
shared transfers. For further information on Forte Village please
visit www.fortevillageresort.com
You can be part of the whole SuperSkills sporting experience
by booking with them at www.superskillsexperiences.co.uk or
you can top up at the resort.
QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
THIS MONTHS
EXPERTS
PAUL PETTENGALE
launched Italia! in
2004 and returned to
the editors chair ten
years later. An expert
on Italian wine he has
travelled extensively
to the many renowned
wine producing zones
across the peninsula. He continues to write
the Drink Italia! section of the magazine
(see page 92).
LAURA PROTTI is dual
qualied as an Italian
avvocato and English
solicitor. She has
extensive experience
in Italian property law,
international private
law, contract law,
succession law, and
taxation, and has assisted with the drafting
and updating of books and articles on Italian
Law. www.leplaw.co.uk
QUESTIONS
& ANSWERS
Our experts are here to help with all your questions about Italy.
Email your questions to italia@anthem-publishing.com, or write to us
at our usual address, as given on page 18.
A dedicated wine storage facility can
prove to be a worthwhile investment
MAXIMILLIAN SMITH
is Marketing Manager
at DeLonghi UK and
has a wealth of
knowledge about
coffee. DeLonghi make
some of the best coffee
machines on the market
today to see
the full range of options for home coffee
machines see their website at
www.seriousaboutcoffee.com
STORING WINE
Ive been reading your Drink Italia! pages

for many years now and have tracked down
a lot of the wines youve recommended, though I
have to admit my wife and I tend to drink them
fairly soon after buying them. I know this is bad
practice for some of the more prestigious wines
from Italy such as Barolo and Amarone, but how
long should I be keeping the wines you review
before popping the cork? And whats the best
way of storing them?
David Crest, via email
The red wines you mention, and wines

such as Barbaresco, the big hitters
from Tuscany and those from Puglia,
Sardinia and Sicily can last for many years,
during which time they will mature in the
bottle and develop way beyond how theyre
drinking just after release. But storage
is key. Fluctuations in temperature and
exposure to light can ruin a ne wine if
youre looking to lay it down for more than

a year or two. Not many of us have access
to a cellar within which to store our wines
at a steady, cool temperature. If you want to
ensure the quality of your wines over many
years (Barolo, for instance, can last decades),
then consider investing in a dedicated wine
storage facility a temperature-controlled
cabinet that plugs into the mains (a bit like
a fridge). These vary hugely in cost, so go for
what you can afford, though expect to pay
at least 500. A big price to pay, but not in
the grand scheme of things if youre looking
to store 50 bottles of ne wine for extended
periods of time. One other thing to mention
ask your supplier how long to lay down
your wines before serving. Their advice is
invaluable and could save you not just money
but face, should you open up a treasured
bottle in front of your dinner guests only to
discover that its turned sour.
Paul Pettengale, Editor of Italia!
ITALIA!
ITALIAN AND UK WILLS
legal
expert
My father-in-law has just retired and is

intending to move to Italy, selling his house
in London and buying in Tuscany. My mother passed away some years ago
and he has promised to leave his Italian property to my two children.
Should he construct a Will in the UK or in Italy? And what are the processes
involved in passing the property down in the eventual event of his death?
Jessica Wood, London
According to the new European Regulation no. 650/2012 on

succession, the law that takes precedence is that of the deceaseds
habitual residence, unless the deceased was more closely associated
with another State. Alternatively, in cases where habitual residence and
nationality differ, the individual may have specied in their Will for the
law of their State of nationality to apply.
People with property in Italy therefore have the option to elect
in their Wills that the law of their nationality should apply to the
succession of their Italian property. Making this specication is a way
of avoiding local forced heirship regulations, which would otherwise
come into effect. Although the UK opted out of EU Regulation no.
650/2012, the regulations provisions may have implications for
anyone who owns assets in an EU State that has opted in, such as Italy.
Your father may state in a UK Will how his assets in Italy should
be disposed of. However, making an Italian Will can have practical
benets as the Authorities are more familiar with Italian documents,
and the translation and legalisation of a foreign Will is therefore not
required. In Italy a Dichiarazione di Successione must be submitted
within one year of death.
All formalities can be dealt with more smoothly with the assistance
of a legal professional who can liaise with the relevant Authorities on the
beneciaries behalf and prepare all the necessary paperwork.
Laura Protti, LEP Law
Passing on property is not
always a simple process
Coffee Corner
AUTHENTIC ADVICE
My daughter and her partner bought me a

DeLonghi bean-to-cup machine for my birthday
its a Autentica model. Theres a place to put a
water lter in the water compartment but I dont
know if I need to use one as I have a mains water
lter (separate tap) for softened water. Can I get
away without using the bespoke additional lter in my
machine? And how often should I descale it, given Id be
using very soft water? Finally, should I need to buy spare parts at
any point, where do I turn to to order them?
Christopher Smith, Solihull
The Autentica Bean-to-Cup coffee machine will

work ne without the water softener lter. The lter
is designed for medium to hard-water areas. You must in
any case descale your machine regularly as this will ensure
that it remains in tip-top condition and produces the best
coffee taste and temperature. By setting up your machine,
following the instruction manual, to your water hardness,
the machine will automatically advise when to run a descale
cycle depending on your usage. Since all DeLonghi beanto-cup coffee machines have a built-in descale programme,
this will be a doddle and only take about 30 minutes. You
shouldnt need to buy spare parts. If you feel that there may
be a part that needs replacing or you require a duplicate,
please contact the DeLonghi Customer Experience team,
who will be happy to assist. Visit www.delonghi.co.uk
for further information.
Maximillian Smith, Trade Marketing Manager DeLonghi
www.serious about coffee.com

Your machine
can tell you
when it needs
attention
Laura Protti is the founder of LEP Law. She is

dual-qualied as an Italian avvocato and English
solicitor, and specialises in assisting British and
Italian clients with matters relating to Italian law.
Visit her website at www.leplaw.co.uk for more.
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PA S T I TA L I A !
LA ROCCA
CALASCIO
Photograph iStock
"He who controls the high ground controls the battle," goes the old military
adage and it doesn't get much higher than the Rocca Calascio. Standing at
1,460 metres above sea level thats 300 metres higher than Ben Nevis this
medieval fortress provides a vantage point over huge swathes of land
tanding in the mountains in the Province

of LAquila, the Rocca Calascio is the
highest fortress in the entire Apennine
range. This may be sunny Italy, but its
generally pretty cold up here and you
dont have to be particularly careful about when you
come with your camera if you want to get a photo
of the Rocca with snow at its feet. From December
to February, temperatures rarely rise much above
freezing point; in a brief high summer July
and August they are roughly comparable with
Glasgow, though its generally rather cooler than
Glasgow in June and September.
We know that there was farming here in
the Bronze Age and that, some time later, earth
fortifications, indicative of Iron Age settlement,
were built, some of which are still visible today. The

Ancient Romans were here too, but they were not
interested in farming the land. Their concerns were
entirely military, and such has been the case for all
who have followed them.
It is likely that construction of the fortress began
in the 10th century, at the dawn of the Feudal Age,
though the first written record of there being a tower
here is from 1380. Antonio Piccolomini is credited
with the building of the four later towers around
the original tower in around 1480. The stones at the
lower levels are much larger than those at the top,
making the building strong. How strong, we dont
know, as it has never been tested in battle. What
we do know, however, is that it is susceptible to
earthquake damage.
UNITED COLORS
Photography Benetton unless otherwise stated
Italian fashion brand Benetton is now 50 years old, and it is still campaigning for a better, more caring, more
sustainable world, writes Gilly Turney. But it is no longer out to shock; but taking a gentler, more mature
approach. The year 2016 is going to be all about equality for women across the globe
he distinctive green
and white United Colors
of Benetton is one of
the most recognisable
logos in the world; a
symbol of style, quality and caring.
And it is true that the company is
just as proud of its ethical stance as
it is of its reputation for cuttingedge knitwear design.
Benetton considers the
welfare of the human race and the
environment as being as important
to its work as designing fashion,
aiming at all times to combine
economic growth with social
commitment, competitiveness, care
for the environment, business and
ethics. To this end, the people
their moral values, daily input
and desire to look to the future and
be the best are central to every
plan the company makes and every
action it takes.
but as the subject matter became

more extreme, shoppers became
disenchanted with the brand, and in
the mid-90s, Toscani and Benetton
parted company.
In the early 2000s the Food
for Life campaign, launched in
conjunction with the World
Food Programme, highlighted
the problems of hunger; and was
followed in 2004 by the James and
other Apes campaign, made with
the support of the Jane Goodall
Institute, founded by the renowned
primatologist, a committed
defender of the environment and a
UN Messenger of Peace.
The year 2008 saw Victims; an
image of a Tibetan monk praying
with a Chinese soldier was,
Benetton said, an attempt to make
a small contribution to dialogue and
engagement between Tibetan and
Chinese people.
Who can forget the shocking images of Benettons

notorious advertising campaign of the 80s?
CHAMPIONING CAUSES
Over the years Benetton has
championed many humanitarian
and environmental causes using
its position as a leading fashion
brand to highlight inequalities in
the world, bringing them global
attention through high profile,
provocative, advertising campaigns.
Who can forget the shocking
images of their notorious advertising
campaign of the 80s? A new born
baby still attached to its umbilical
cord, the bloody uniform of a soldier
killed in the Bosnian war, the ravages
of an Aids victim....
Masterminded by worldrenowned photographer Oliviero
Toscani, who created the first of
the multi-racial campaigns with
the United Colors of Benetton slogan,
which the company has used as
its main slogan ever since, the
images may not have related to
the companys products, but the
message hit home all the same.
Having been given total
artistic freedom, Toscanis arresting
billboard campaigns caught the
publics and medias attention,
Then, in 2011, another

controversial series of adverts. The
Unhate campaign featured world
leaders kissing each other Barack
Obama and Hu Jintao of China,
Pope Benedict XVI and Egypts
Ahmed el-Tayeb, Grand Imam of
the Al-Azhar Mosque in Cairo to
illustrate that love is not that far
from hate. Its objective: to fight
the culture of hate with projects set
out from the social role of art and
self-expression by educating people
to be tolerant, and involving young
people in at risk areas, from Brazil
to India, and even to New Yorks
Puerto Rican neighbourhoods.
A GENTLER APPROACH
Now at the age of 50, the company
has changed direction, adopting a
gentler approach with the launch
of two new campaigns aimed at
improving the lives of women
around the world, entitled A
Collection of Us and The Benetton
Women Empowerment Program.
A Collection of Us aims to inspire
women by telling other womens
stories with five female models
from various backgrounds and

ages, each carrying a message of
emancipation and empowerment.
The video, released across social and
traditional media, is suitably low
key with the women taking turns
to interview each other seated on
Scandinavian style chairs.
Referencing their strong knitwear
heritage, four capsule collections
inspired by the past five decades are
being released to mark this campaign
and the anniversary. Each has a
different theme heritage, technique,
colour and performance, their first
sportswear range and includes
archive designs as well as the style and
colourful wit that is synonymous with
the brand. The final collection drops
into stores in April.
Its an altogether more subtle
approach. Speaking at the companys
Treviso headquarters, the chief
product and marketing officer, John
Mollanger, said, Im not sure that
its part of our DNA to be shocking.
Rather than be shocking, what we
would like to be today is attitudinal,
emotional and interesting.
There was a time in the 1980s

and 1990s when advertisings main
mission was to create awareness with
shocking creatives, but I believe it was
a moment in time. We are committed
to making clothes with a cause, but I
dont think that we want to commit
to being shocking. We have matured
and the world has matured.
LONG-TERM INITIATIVE
The Benetton Empowerment Programme
is a long-term initiative that
supports projects and actions
aimed at targeting important key
priorities for women, following the
Sustainable Development Goals
(SDGs) set by the United Nations
for 2030. These include sustainable
living, non-discrimination and equal
opportunities, access to affordable
and quality education, healthcare for
women and girls, and the elimination
of all forms of violence against women.
Much has been done for womens
rights worldwide but there is still a
great deal to do. Of all the women
alive today, some 250 million were
married before the age of 15, half
the worlds women are employed

in informal or unpaid jobs, some
31 million of primary school age
are out of school, and every two
minutes one dies from causes related
to pregnancy or childbirth. The first
initiative, the Sustainable Livelihood
project, is a five-year, two million
euro investment aimed at giving a
sustainable livelihood to women in

the ready-made garments sector.
Based in Pozano, about 30
kms from Venice, Benetton has
some 5,000 stores in the most
important markets around the world.
Established in 1965, the company
is named after its founder, Luciano
Benetton. The eldest of four children,
he was a 30-year-old salesman in
Treviso when he saw a market for
colourful knitwear and sold his
younger brothers bicycle in order to
buy a second-hand knitting machine.
His initial small collection of
sweaters received such a positive
response in local stores in the Veneto
region that he asked his sister,
Giuliana, and two younger brothers,
Gilberto and Carlo, to join him, and
family delisted the company from

the Milan stock exchange in 2012.
After spending 26 years in public
hands, the family bought back the
33 per cent they didnt own, with
Alessandro Benetton taking over as
president from his 76-year-old father.
Alessandro set about overhauling
the business, splitting it into three
parts: manufacturing, real estate
including a collection of 18th
century palazzi across Italy and
the Benetton brand. Then, just two
years later, he declared himself a
detonator for discontinuity and
left the company to be run entirely
by directors from outside the family
for the first time.
The family is now focused on
being a shareholder, says Mollanger.
Founder Luciano Benetton sold his younger brothers

bicycle in order to buy a second-hand knitting machine
in 1965 the Benetton Group was
formed. With Luciano as chairman,
Gilberto in charge of administration,
the youngest brother, Carlo, running
production, and Giuliana as chief
designer, the family opened its first
store in nearby Belluno, followed by
its second, the first outside Italy, in
Paris, three years later.
The Group expanded over the
next 30 years in a collaboration with
former Atalanta footballer, and later
club president, Antonio Percassi. A
retail entrepreneur, Percassi headed
the developments of United Colors of
Benetton and its sister brand, Sisley,
both in Italy and abroad.
Although united in the Benetton
Group, the brands are quite
distinctive. United Colors of Benetton
clothing collections for women, men
and children, offer a style universally
recognised as encompassing design,
taste, a sense of beauty, and reflecting
the Italian style of the brand. Sisley
has a strong personality, is sexy,
unconventional, edgy, with a powerful
contemporary aesthetic.
Over the past few years Benetton
has seen a fall in its consumer
spending and popularity. Following
a profit warning and a slump in the
companys share price caused by
Europes economic problems, the
They do not interfere but they offer

support. For example, our latest
campaign has been informed by the
Benetton family.
You can read all the business
books available but it is not the same
as talking to Giuliana and having
that insight, he says of Lucianos
sister, who inspired the company
with her colourful knitting.
THE LEGACY LIVES ON
Whatever happens in the future, the
family legacy lives on: in Fabrica,
the beautiful 16th century Pozano
buildings transformed and enlarged
into a thoroughly modern space
by Japanese architect Tadao Ando,
with its colonnades and floating
lawn, where designs and campaigns
are spearheaded; in a nearby former
knitting factory renovated and now
housing an archive of past collections;
and in an aircraft hangar-sized
room with huge billboards from
the groups Unhate campaign and
racing cars from the familys 20-year
sponsorship of Formula One.
Of the companys new gentler
image Mollanger says, Shock tactics
will work if you want to be known
for your advert campaigns, but we
dont want just that. We want to be
known as Benetton.
CAN I TELL YOU

A SECRET?
We Italians have a special word for mopping the remaining delicious sauce
with bread directly from the pan called Scarpetta. I remember as a boy
the delicious taste of Cirio tomatoes and my momma would let me do Scarpetta.
My secret is I still use Cirio and I still do Scarpetta!
160 years of passion and skill makes Cirio a beloved brand by Italians.
Taste, quality and safety guaranteed from a cooperative of 14,500 farmers,
traced from seed to fork.
Francesco Cirio, Autentico Italiano dal 1856.
CirioUK
CirioUK
@CirioUK
cirio1856.com
4 TA K E S O N G N O C C H I
takes on
4GNOCCHI
Photography, this image iStock, over page StockFood
These dumplings are usually made with potato, but can be

formed from any manner of ingredients. They are to be found
in France and Croatia too, but Italy is their spiritual home
4 TA K E S O N G N O C C H I
1
SERVES 4
Preparation
15 minutes
Cooking
35 minutes
2
Gorgonzola gnocchi
Gnocchi al gorgonzola
Baked polenta gnocchi

Gnocchi di polenta al forno
This is a classic potato gnocchi spiced up with a

avoursome blue cheese, sage and nutmeg.
Instead of fresh tomatoes you can always use good

quality tinned tomatoes or passata.
INGREDIENTS
500g floury potatoes, eg King Edwards
150g wholemeal flour
50g wholemeal semolina
SERVES 4
Preparation
20 minutes
Cooking
30 minutes
INGREDIENTS
250g quick-cook polenta
FOR THE SAUCE
1 onion, peeled, finely chopped
1 free-range egg
1 garlic clove, peeled, finely chopped
1 free-range egg yolk
4 tbsp olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
500g tomatoes, skins and seeds removed, finely diced
a handful of sage leaves, to garnish
FOR THE SAUCE
1 tbsp finely chopped basil
200g Gorgonzola, crumbled

150g double cream
50g unsalted butter, cut into small cubes, plus extra

for greasing
200g vegetable stock
50g Parmesan or Grana Padano, grated
Cook the polenta according to the packet instructions. Set

aside. Preheat the oven to 200C/Gas Mark 6.
a pinch of grated nutmeg

Bring a saucepan of water to the boil, add the potatoes, still
in their skins, and cook for 25-30 minutes, until soft. Drain,
then peel and mash. Mix the our, semolina, egg and egg
yolk into the potato, then season.
For the sauce, put the Gorgonzola, cream and stock into a
saucepan and heat until creamy. Season with salt, pepper
and nutmeg and keep warm over a low heat.
For the gnocchi, form the potato dough into long rolls, cut
off 2.5cm pieces, form into oval shapes and press a fork
lightly over the surface to make a pattern. Bring a saucepan
of salted water to the boil, add the gnocchi and cook until
they rise to the surface. Remove the gnocchi using a slotted
spoon, then drain. Serve with the sauce and garnish with
sage leaves.
Make the tomato sauce. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan,

add the onion and garlic, and sweat until soft. Add the
tomatoes to the onions, season, then simmer for 2-3
minutes. Stir the basil into the sauce.
Butter a large baking dish. Using a moistened tablespoon,
cut small oval shapes out of the polenta and place side by
side in the baking dish. Pour the tomato sauce over the top
of the polenta gnocchi, sprinkle with grated Parmesan and
dot with the cubes of butter. Bake in the oven for 25-30
minutes, until golden on top.
4
Ricotta and mortadella
gnocchi with spinach
Gnocchi alla ricotta e
mortadella con spinaci
Here is a good example of a more inventive take on the
theme. Bread and our form the base for the gnocchi.
SERVES 4
Preparation
10 minutes
plus 30 minutes
resting time
Cooking
10 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1kg spinach
200ml vegetable stock
60g Parmesan or Grana Padano, shaved, to serve
FOR THE GNOCCHI
60g white bread, crusts removed, grated
300g ricotta
120g plain flour
50g mortadella, chopped
2 free-range eggs
1 tbsp spinach, finely chopped
To make the gnocchi, separate the eggs and beat the whites
until stiff. Mix the rest of the ingredients together in a
bowl, put in the fridge for 30 minutes, then fold the beaten
egg whites into the mixture.
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil, form small ovals from
the gnocchi mixture with a spoon, drop them into the water
and cook for around 7 minutes.
Bring the vegetable stock to the boil in a saucepan and add
the spinach. Heat until the spinach collapses, then season.
Divide the spinach between four bowls, remove the gnocchi
from the water with a slotted spoon and place on top of the
spinach, then nally sprinkle with the Parmesan shavings.
Pumpkin gnocchi
Gnocchi alla zucca
The amaretti biscuits will really enhance the sweetness
of the pumpkin in this recipe.
SERVES 6
Preparation
20 minutes
Cooking
1 hour 10
minutes
INGREDIENTS
700g floury potatoes, eg King Edwards
400g pumpkin, cut in half, seeds removed
4 free-range egg yolks
60g cornflour
120g durum wheat semolina, or strong white flour
flour, for working
100g amaretti biscuits
60g unsalted butter
a pinch of grated nutmeg
50g Parmesan or Grana Padano, finely grated
a handful of sage leaves, to garnish
Preheat the oven to 160C/Gas Mark 2. Place the potatoes
and pumpkin on a baking tray and bake in the oven for
about 1 hour.
Remove the vegetables from the oven, peel the potatoes,
scoop the pumpkin esh out of the skin, mash the potatoes
and pumpkin and mix together. Leave to cool slightly, then
place on a oured surface, add the yolks, cornour and
semolina and knead to a smooth dough add more our if
it is too soft and milk if too dry. Divide the dough into four
and roll each piece into a long sausage. Cut off 2cm pieces
and roll over a fork to make a pattern. Cook the gnocchi in
boiling water for 6 minutes, or until they rise to the surface.
Heat the butter in a small pan until it froths, stir in the
nutmeg and add the sage. Drain the gnocchi and toss in the
butter. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan and amaretti.
E AT I TA L I A !
Rome: Centuries in
an Italian Kitchen
Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi are back with a compendium
of recipes from Rome, both modern and traditional. Here we
present ve samples to help you through the rest of winter
Frittata romana
Frittata stuffed with ricotta and parmesan
SERVES 2-4 PREPARATION 15 minutes COOKING 15 minutes
FOR THE OMELETTE
25g salted butter
4 medium free-range eggs
2 heaped tbsp finely grated parmesan
FOR THE FILLING
100g ricotta
2 heaped tbsp finely grated parmesan
3 heaped tbsp cooked, sliced vegetables,
or 1 tbsp finely chopped soft herbs
Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas Mark 6. Start
by making the frittata base. In an omelette
or non-stick frying pan with a base diameter
of 15-20cm, melt half of the butter over a
medium heat until it foams. Beat 2 of the
eggs in a bowl with 1 tbsp parmesan, and
season. Pour this into the pan and cook until
it just sets; there should be only a little wet
egg mixture on the surface.
While the frittata base is cooking, combine
all the ingredients for the lling in a bowl.
Spread half of the lling over the centre of
the frittata.
Using a spatula, ip one half of the frittata
over the other half, making a half moon,
to seal the lling inside. Transfer to an
ovenproof plate and into the oven. Cook until
the egg is set; around 5 minutes should do it.
Meanwhile, make the next frittata in the same
way with the remaining ingredients.
To serve, slide off the plates (careful, the
plates will be hot!) and slice. If you want this
for a more substantial meal, serve with fresh
tomatoes and warm farro salad and/or with
crusty bread.
Vignarola
Broad bean, artichoke and pea stew
SERVES 8-10 PREPARATION 15 minutes, or 1 hour for fresh peas and artichokes COOKING 15 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1kg peas in the pod, or
300g podded, fresh or frozen
1kg broad beans in the pod, or
300g podded, fresh or frozen
1kg small artichokes, or 400g frozen or
tinned in brine (drained weight)
50g smoked or unsmoked streaky bacon,
pancetta or guanciale (optional)
1 white medium onion, finely chopped
1 fat garlic clove, peeled and lightly crushed
1 small dried red chilli (optional)
5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
100ml white wine
1 litre hot water
a handful of flat-leaf parsley,
finely chopped
a handful of mint, finely chopped
best-quality extra-virgin olive oil
If you are using fresh peas and broad beans

still in their pods, remove them from their
pods into separate bowls. If you are using
whole fresh artichokes, clean and prepare
them, then cut them into quarters and, if
they have them, remove the furry chokes in
the centre with a spoon.
Sweat the bacon (if using), onion, garlic,
chilli and seasoning with the 5 tbsp of oil
in a large saucepan over a medium heat
for around 5 minutes, until the onion is
translucent. Pour in the wine and allow to
reduce for a few minutes. Add the hot water
and the peas. Cook the peas for around 30
minutes so that they lose their colour but
gain sweetness.
While the peas are cooking, in a separate
pan, boil the broad beans for 3-5 minutes
until just tender, then drain and put them
into a bowl of cold water to cool. If you are
using fresh broad beans, remove and discard
the tough outer skin of each bean so that
you are left with only the bright green
centre bean. If you have used the small,
young frozen ones that are tender, you

shouldnt need to shell them.
Cook the fresh or frozen artichokes in a
saucepan of boiling salted water for about
10-15 minutes, until just tender. Remove
and drain but save the cooking liquor if
they were fresh. If you are using tinned
artichokes, rinse them in cold water to
remove the brine and then heat them in a
saucepan of boiling water for 3-4 minutes
before adding to the peas.
Add the cooked broad beans and artichokes
to the pan with the cooked peas, along with
300ml of artichoke water or hot water. Stir
and cook everything together over a low
heat for 30 minutes.
Adjust the seasoning as necessary and serve
scattered with the parsley, mint and a swirl
of your best extra-virgin olive oil.
E AT I TA L I A !
Pasticcio
Annas sardine bake
SERVES 4-6 PREPARATION 20 minutes COOKING 20 minutes
INGREDIENTS
500g fresh sardines
1 white onion, finely sliced into semi-circles
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,
plus extra for drizzling
100g slightly stale white crusty bread
200ml milk
3 tbsp roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
the juice of 1 lemon
Wash, scale and gut the sh, removing their

heads, ns and spines. Open them out like a
buttery and pat dry. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas Mark 6. Fry
the onions over a low heat in the oil with
the seasoning for around 5 minutes, until
just soft but not coloured. Remove from the
heat when they are done.
In a large bowl, soak the bread in the milk
for a couple of minutes, then squeeze out
the milk gently breaking up the bread into
small pieces; set aside.
In an ovenproof dish measuring around

30x20cm layer a third of the onions onto
the base. Scatter over a third of the bread,
parsley and garlic. Put a third of the sardines
on top and season well. Squeeze over a little
of the lemon juice and a drizzle of olive oil.
Repeat for 2 more layers, nishing with the
bread crumbs.
Bake for 15 minutes, or until the sh is
cooked through and the top is crusty and
golden brown. Serve warm with a green
salad or green beans with lemon.
Pollo alla romana

Roman chicken with peppers
SERVES 4 PREPARATION 1 hour COOKING 1 hour
INGREDIENTS
3 bell peppers
(red or a mixture of red and yellow)
1 x 400g tin whole plum tomatoes
800g chicken (either 1 chicken jointed into
pieces or all thighs)
2 tbsp sunflower oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp capers
1 tsp dried oregano
100ml white wine
Prepare the peppers by grilling them then,

while they are still hot, covering with
clinglm to remove the skin. Once they have
cooled the skin will peel off easily.
Cut or tear each one, once peeled, into
10 long strips and set aside. Break up the
tomatoes using a sharp knife while they
are in the tin or tip them into a bowl and
squeeze them with your hands.
Season the chicken generously on all sides.
Fry in the oil in a large non-stick frying pan
over a medium heat for about 10 minutes
until its a rich golden brown. Tip away most
of the excess fat leaving just a couple of
tablespoons in the pan.
Add the garlic, capers and oregano, and fry

for 2 minutes over a low heat so that the
garlic doesnt brown at all. Pour in the white
wine, increase the heat to medium, and
allow it to reduce.
Add the peppers and tomatoes and stir to
combine with the chicken. Bring to the boil,
then reduce the heat to simmer, uncovered,
for 30 minutes, or until the chicken is
cooked and comes away easily from the
bone. Move the pieces around occasionally
to make sure they are covered in the sauce
and are cooked evenly. When the chicken
is done, taste the sauce and adjust the
seasoning as necessary.
E AT I TA L I A !
INFORMATION
Rome: Centuries in an Italian Kitchen
by Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi. Published
by Hardie Grant, 25.
Torta di pere in zuppa di cioccolato

Warm pear and orange cake in milk chocolate soup
MAKES 12 small cakes PREPARATION 30 minutes COOKING 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS
60g caster sugar
2 medium free-range eggs
1 egg yolk
the zest of an orange
60g plain flour, sifted
a pinch of salt
25g unsalted butter
toasted hazelnut ice cream
3 pears 1 peeled and cut into 1 cm cubes;
2 sliced, to serve
a handful of tarragon, to serve
FOR THE MILK CHOCOLATE SOUP
8 tbsp whole milk
4 tbsp double cream
25g unsalted butter
a pinch of salt
100g milk chocolate (min. 70% cocoa
solids), broken into small pieces
Heat the oven to 180C/Gas Mark 6. Grease

the moulds in a 12-hole mufn tin for the
cakes, unless they are silicone. When the
oven is hot, place the sugar on a baking tray
lined with baking parchment and heat in the
oven for 5 minutes.
Whisk the eggs and egg yolk in a large bowl
with a hand-held blender for 1 minute. Add
the warm sugar and the orange zest, then
continue to whisk until the mixture forms a
ribbon-like trail when the whisk is lifted. This
will take about 5 minutes, so persevere to
get a really frothy and light mixture. To check
youve whisked enough, turn off the blender
and lift the beaters from the mix, making a
circle with the beaters over the bowl; you
should be able to see a line of the mixture sit
on the surface before sinking in. If there is
no trail, continue to whisk.
When it is ready, very gently fold in the sifted
our, salt, and the cubes of pear using as few
movements as possible; you dont want to
lose the precious air you have whipped in.
Melt the butter in a microwave or in a small
saucepan and when just runny, mix in with
the rest of the ingredients, gently folding it

as before. Divide the mixture between the
moulds to just below the top of each one.
Transfer to the oven and bake for 15-20
minutes or until golden brown and a skewer
inserted into the centre of the cakes comes
out clean. Allow the cakes to cool for 10
minutes before removing from the moulds.
Leave to cool on a wire rack.
For the milk chocolate soup Heat the milk,
cream, butter and salt together in a medium
saucepan over a medium-high heat. Bring to
the boil, stirring frequently with a wooden
spoon, and then remove from the heat.
Stir in the chocolate until melted and
smooth. Use straight away or allow to cool
and reheat gently in a bowl over a simmering
pan of boiling water, or in the microwave.
To serve, briey heat the cakes for 5 minutes
in the oven, still at 180C/Gas Mark 6. Swirl
a little milk chocolate soup into a wide bowl,
set a cake into it and then nish with a
scoop of ice cream, a few slices of pear and
some tarragon leaves.
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MEALS IN MINUTES
READY IN
READY IN
MINUTES
MINUTES
Winter minestrone
Minestrone invernale
Minestrone loosely translates as big soup
(minestra means soup and the -one is what
linguists call an augmentative). What this
means in practical terms is simply this: you can
be pretty free about what ingredients you put
into one. But heres a winter classic.
SERVES 2
PREPARATION 10 minutes
COOKING 50 minutes
INGREDIENTS
3 carrots
1 onion
2 garlic cloves
3 small leeks
3 tbsp olive oil
150g pancetta
600ml chicken stock
400g tin of cannellini beans
a handful flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Peel the carrots, onions and garlic, then nely
chop along with the leeks. Add 3 tbsp of olive oil
to a large heavy-based saucepan and gently fry the
nely chopped vegetables for around 10 minutes on
a low heat.
Some of the more complex

Italian recipes will take hours
to prepare and just as long
to enjoy! but when youre
in a hurry youre going to
need quick-and-easy meals
to cook. Italia! presents ve
winter favourites
Meanwhile, dice the pancetta into large cubes and

add to the vegetables. Stir fry the pancetta with the
vegetables until pink but not too crisp.
Add the chicken stock to the saucepan and slowly
simmer for 30 minutes, then add the cannellini
beans. Cook for a further 5 minutes, then check the
seasoning and serve scattered with the parsley.
Leek carbonara
Tagliatelle con salsa
carbonara e porri
The term carbonara dates to the charcoal
burners of yore, whose dishes would (according
to folklore at least) be served speckled with
charcoal. This is represented by the pepper, which
should be coarsely ground and plentiful.
SERVES 2
COOKING 15 minutes
INGREDIENTS
4 small leeks
1 tbsp olive oil
100g pancetta, cut into cubes
200g tagliatelle
100ml double cream
2 free-range egg yolks
Clean the leeks and slice into 1cm rounds. Heat the
olive oil in a large saucepan and gently fry the leeks
for 3 minutes on a low heat. Add the pancetta to
the saucepan. When the pancetta becomes crispy,
remove both the pancetta and leeks from the
saucepan and set to one side.
Fill the saucepan with water, bring it to the boil,
then add the tagliatelle and cook according to
packet instructions until al dente.
Drain the tagliatelle in a colander and return the
saucepan to the hob. Add the cream and whisk in
the egg yolks. Add the pancetta, leeks and plenty of
ground pepper to the cream. Once the sauce is hot
add the pasta and stir in well to fully coat.
Season and serve immediately with grated Parmesan
sprinkled over the top.
READY IN
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MINUTES
MINUTES
MINUTES
Italian sausage and

lentil casserole
Salsiccia e lenticchie
in casseruola
Italian sausages, spicy and warming, will serve
best in this dish. If you are going to use a
substitute, try to get something with plenty of
heat, and fennel.
SERVES 2
COOKING 45 minutes
INGREDIENTS
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, peeled, sliced
1 garlic clove, peeled, crushed
4 spicy Italian sausages, cut into chunks
50g pancetta, cut into cubes
100ml red wine
400g tin of chopped tomatoes
100ml good stock (any type)
1 bay leaf
100g castelluccio lentils
2 medium potatoes, peeled, cut into small cubes
1 sprig of rosemary
a pinch of chilli flakes
In a large pot, fry in oil the onion, garlic, sausage
chunks and pancetta over a low heat until the
onions are translucent and the meat browned. This
should take around 10 minutes.
Add the wine to the pot and turn up the heat to
reduce the wine by half. Pour the tomatoes into the
pot, breaking them up with a wooden spoon, then
add the stock, bay, lentils, potatoes, rosemary and
chilli akes.
Simmer gently for about 30 minutes, until the
potatoes and lentils are tender and the sauce
thickened. Add more water if it starts to dry up.
Season to taste and serve.
Chicken with
balsamic vinegar
and rosemary
Pollo con balsamico
e rosmarino
Mussels in a
tomato sauce
Cozze al pomodoro
Chicken, handled correctly, will stand up to

avours as strong as these and produce a truly
heartening winter dish.
Mussels cooked simply with garlic, onion and

white wine are a delight, but did you know that
they work very well with tomatoes too? And
you dont have to wait for next seasons harvest
either tinned tomatoes will do just as well. (In
fact, sometimes perhaps even better)
SERVES 2
COOKING 55 minutes
SERVES 2
COOKING 10 minutes
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
1 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, peeled, finely sliced
4 chicken pieces, mixture of thighs and legs
1 garlic clove, peeled, finely chopped
6 shallots or small onions, peeled but left whole
400g tin of chopped tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, peeled
125ml dry white wine
75ml balsamic vinegar
1kg mussels, scrubbed, de-bearded
200ml Marsala
handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 sprigs of rosemary, needles only
3 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp double cream
Heat the oil in a large frying pan and season the

chicken pieces. Brown the chicken until golden,
then remove from the pan and set aside.
First scrub and de-beard the mussels. You can buy

mussels with this job already done, but you really
have to go through them all carefully anyway to nd
any that might not be alive, so there is still work
to be done. If they do not move when you tap the
shell, discard them. Do not take any chances!
Add the shallots and garlic to the pan and brown.

Return the chicken pieces to the pan, add the vinegar
and Marsala, and sprinkle with rosemary needles.
With this done, heat the olive oil in a large

saucepan, then add the nely chopped onion and
garlic and cook gently for 2 minutes.
Place the lid on the frying pan and leave the to

simmer for around 45 minutes, turning the chicken
pieces halfway through. When the pieces are fully
cooked, put them in a serving dish with the shallots
and garlic.
Now add the tin of chopped tomatoes and stir them

in thoroughly. Allow this mixture to cook for a
further 2 minutes, then add the white wine and stir.
rosemary sprigs, to garnish
Leave the frying pan containing the sauce from

the chicken mixture on the heat. The sauce should
have reduced nicely by now, if not let it bubble for
a couple of minutes, then add the cream, whisking
well. Season to taste and pour over the chicken,
garnishing with a little more rosemary if desired.
After 3-4 minutes the sauce will have reduced and

thickened, which is when the mussels can be thrown
in. Pop the lid on the saucepan and leave the
mixture to simmer, which will open up the mussel
shells 3-4 minutes should do the trick.
Discard any remaining unopened mussel shells and
divide the mixture between two bowls. Serve with
plenty of warm bread.
B U Y I TA L I A !
JARRED
PESTO
Its an Italian staple, though readily available in our
supermarkets and local stores. But which jarred basil pestos
really hit the grade? Italia! nds out
ou get home from work; youre tired; the prospect of cooking

a meal is even more tiring; so what could be more simple than
getting some pasta on the boil and, once done, stirring in some
pesto straight from a jar in the kitchen cupboard? For sure, it
feels like cheating, but some of the jarred pestos you can pick
up from your local supermarket or convenience store are really rather good.
If you have the time, making your own (see the sidebar opposite) reaps both
dividends in taste and in satisfaction, but unless you grow your own basil it
can be costly. So, in this issue of Italia! weve done our monthly supermarket
sweep and acquired a selection of the best. To see how the high street samples
compared, we also selected one from a specialist importer and another from
a local deli. The pasta was boiled, the jars were opened and the pesto was
stirred! We avoided adding any extra olive oil or parmesan cheese. Now, lets
see how they all got on.
MINASSO PESTO ALLA GENOVESE
From Camisa www.camisa.co.uk
Price 3.70 for 180g
There are, of course, four main ingredients in pesto alla genovese. The basil, of
course, which should of the
highest possibly quality and
freshly picked. Then theres
TO
the parmesan cheese, which
DI R
should be well aged with a
nice sweet but nutty avour.
Then theres the olive oil,
which when chosen carefully
will help balance the avours
and bring them all together.
Finally there are the nuts.
Most pestos use pine nuts, but
there will be endless debate
as to which type of nut is best
employed in the sauce. In
this instance cashew nuts are
used, and to marvelous effect.
Needless to say, to win our
Editors Choice award the othe
ingredients are top-notch, but
the use of cashew nuts gives
a slightly creamy consistency
and a depth of avour that is
quite sublime. And the amount
of oil is absolutely spot on.
LIA! E
S CHO
FEB
2016
IT
ICE A
VERDICT +++++
The use of cashew nuts instead of pine nuts is a fantastic choice for the winner of
our group test. It has a great depth of avour and a wonderful texture.
1 SACLA ORGANIC
BASIL PESTO
From Widely available in

supermarkets
Price (Typically) 2.50 for
190g
Sacla is a well known and well
respected source of sauces,
and this pesto (made with all
organic ingredients) doesnt
disappoint. It has a fairly ne
grain but it tastes really fresh
for something out of a jar.
2 WAITROSE
BRIGHT & GREEN
BASIL PESTO
From Waitrose
Price 1.35 for 190g
Well, you cant fault Waitrose
on its labelling. This pesto is
indeed bright and green, and
it tastes jolly good to boot.
Just the right balance of basil,
pine nuts and cheese, though
its quite dry. It would benet
from a touch a more olive oil.
VERDICT ++++
VERDICT ++++
If buying organic produce

is important to you then
this is a great choice of
pesto. Fresh and lively
with a bit of basil bite.
A really well balanced

pesto thats as inviting to
look at on the plate as it is
to taste in the mouth. Add
a drop of oil, though.
Perhaps youd like to

make your own?
Basil pesto
Pesto alla genovese
If you have an abundance of fresh basil then
making your own pesto makes a lot of sense as its
a great way to use the herb. A pestle and mortar
is traditional (thats where the name pesto comes
from) but a food processor will produce good results.
SERVES 2
COOKING 10 minutes (approx, for pasta)
INGREDIENTS
250g of your favourite pasta
salt and pepper to taste
2 tbsp of pine nuts
a clove of garlic
DAMICO PESTO
ALLA GENOVESE
3
From Quality Italian delis

Price (Typically) 4.50 for
180g
We bought this pesto from
our local deli, and its a
well-known brand in Italy. Its
a rich and robust sauce with
oodles of avour. The genuine
genovese basil has a great kick
to it and its well integrated
with the oil.
CARLUCCIOS
PESTO GENOVESE
4
From Carluccios stores

Price 4.95 for 180g
Dark and unctuous, this pesto
from Carluccios uses the best
fresh basil and a ne grade of
olive oil. Its quite thin and
so integrates with your pasta
of choice really well, and you
denitely wont have to add
any extra oil! Maybe a good
grating of parmesan, though.
M SIGNATURE
PESTO ALLA
GENOVESE
5
From Morissons
Price 1.33 for 190g
The jar describes this pesto
as being in a genovese style,
though the basil aspect didnt
taste as fresh or vibrant as the
other genovese pestos in this
group taste test. A little more
oil, a little less cheese and it
would have ranked higher.
VERDICT ++++
VERDICT +++
VERDICT ++
Another four-star verdict!

Pop to your own local
Italian deli to track down
this quality, and extremely
tasty pesto.
This is a dark pesto that

goes large on the basil
and even larger on the oil.
It has a great avour but
needs more cheese.
A touch too dry and

lacking in that allimportant basil kick, this
pesto was found to be
rather lacking in character.
3 large handfuls of fresh basil leaves

(remove the stalks)
2 tbsp of freshly grated parmesan cheese
2 tbsp of high-quality olive oil
Get a large saucepan of water on the boil. Once at a
rolling boil, season with a pinch of salt. Boil the pasta
according to the packet instructions.
Meanwhile dry toast the pine nuts in a frying pan on
the hob with no oil. They should be evenly toasted and
a light brown, which should take a couple of minutes at
most. Dont let them catch and burn.
Roughly chop the basil leaves and add to your food
processor. Add the garlic, parmesan cheese and the
toasted pine nuts. Add a touch of salt and freshlyground black pepper. Add half of the olive oil.
Start to whizz the ingredients together, drizzling
in more olive oil as you do so. Add as much oil and
cheese as you wish, though keep an eye on the pesto
consistency it must be neither too dry nor too loose.
GRAPPA DI
AMARONE,
ALLEGRINI
From Liberty Wines

www.libertywines.co.uk
Price 42.99
The bottle is almost black,
but this grappa, made by
Allegrini using the must from
the companys production of
Amarone della Valpolicella
in the Veneto, is a soft
amber in colour. As youll
no doubt know, Amarone
is a dry red wine but with
sweet undertones, and that
character is reected in this
spirit. Its very smooth, not
at all harsh and has a long,
slightly bitter nish. One of
the best grappas available
in the UK, wed say, and
denitely worth sampling.
POGGIO BASSO
GRAPPA
From Waitrose
www.waitrose.co.uk
Price 14.99
If you want to sample a
quality grappa without
breaking the bank then all
hail Waitrose one of very
few high street retailers to
stock this type of spirit. Okay,
so its not as complex as the
other grappas featured across
these pages, but it deserves
a taste or two nonetheless.
Initial impressions are that
its a touch ery, but it does
mellow in the mouth, with
typical vanilla and dried
owers to taste. A great
alternative to a post-dinner
cognac or whisky and, at 15,
a real bargain.
GRAPPA
Think of it as Italian rewater? An end-of-meal tipple to be
feared as much as revered? Paul Pettengale explains why
quality grappa should be sipped and savoured
ou know the drill. Youve enjoyed your welcoming glass of

prosecco. Youve sampled a glass of white, maybe a glass of
red with your six-plus course meal at your favourite restaurant
in your selected town in Italy. Youre feeling rather full. And
then the owner arrives at your table with a bottle of grappa
and some small, though attractive, glasses. Its on the house! he (or she)
proclaims. Oh dear. How can you possibly refuse?
Grappa is made using the fermented grape must left over from the wine
production process. It has something of a reputation for being, shall we say,
rather warming. And for causing hangovers like you wouldnt believe. But
if youre careful and you stick to the good stuff (and any quality restaurant
will only serve the good stuff as a digestif) then youre in for a treat. More
A single shot of grappa at the end of

a meal is very much recommended
and more wine producers are adding a grappa to their armoury, though
theyre using the must that results from their very best wines, creating
single grape variety grappas that dont burn your throat or wake you up
in the middle of the night with you wondering what on earth youve done
to yourself. Seek them out and youll find the equivalent of single malt
whiskies, though given the stuffs reputation you may be shocked at the
prices decent grappas now command. In this issue of Italia! we present you
with a selection of four of our favourites. Theyre great examples, though we
urge caution... As with a fine malt, a single shot at the end of a meal is very
much recommended. Any more than that and you could live to regret it.
GREAT WITH
GREAT WITH
Try this grappa after

cream-based desserts such
as panna cotta.
Given its more ery nature,

leave it a good ten minutes
after your meal.
D R I N K I TA L I A !
NONINO GRAPPA
PROSECCO
From Great Western Wine

www.greatwesternwine.co.uk
Price 42.50
Having travelled so much
through Italy, eating at
great restaurants and being
served some very ne grappas
indeed, we were bowled
over to nd this one on our
doorstep (literally about ve
minutes walk away). It is
truly superb. Its dark amber
colour is striking, the aromas
are remarkable (apple peel,
vanilla, milk chocolate) and
the taste is quite simply
outstanding. Very rich, very
smooth, and a ne expression
of the prosecco grapes from
which it is made. Denitely
our favourite this month.
GRAPPA PO DI POLI
ELEGANTE
From Berkmann
www.berkmann.co.uk
Price 45.00
Completely clear this very
ne grappa is a polished
accomplishment from Poli. It
is super smooth, yet rounded
and rich. It has a very slight
touch of re, but only enough
to add excitement in the
mouth. The principle avour
is vanilla, with a touch
of rose petal and an even
lighter shade of juniper. Its
made using the must from
a combination of Pinot Noir
and Pinot Blanc grapes and
distilled in copper stills. The
name says it all, really, this is
a truly elegant grappa worthy
of any after-dinner table.
H DI
NT
OF T
RY
V
SCO E
FEB
2016
MO
HE
GREAT WITH
GREAT WITH
If youre a smoker then

this would go very nicely
with a ne cigar.
Another one to savour on

its own with good friends
and conversation.
all Cal
US lin
Ar g
ead
ers
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ITALIA!
STUNNING SICILY
Contents may be subject to change
Join us on a trip to Cefal as we spend 48 hours exploring, eating,

drinking and soaking up the culture of this tiny city
THE ITALIA! TASTE AWARDS

Find out what Italia! rates as the
best food and drink of 2015
THE ART OF FLORENCE
Finally, the Duomo museum reopens!
PLUS A guide to tasting

Italian wine, the Regata
Storica in Venice, plenty of
tasty recipes to try at home,
Gavi wines sampled, the best
Italian coffee, news, book
reviews, events and much,
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THE FINAL WORD
Beretta now has factories in many countries. This

particular gun was manufactured by Beretta USA and was
actually designed by an Englishman. The Italian models
are the most sought-after, however.
#07
THE BERETTA
SHOTGUN
Founded in the 16th century,
Beretta is the oldest active
rearms manufacturer in the
world, and is famed for its
beautiful handcrafted shotguns.
ou may not be at ease

with the concept
of privately-owned
firearms, but anyone
who appreciates art and fine
craftsmanship cannot fail to be
impressed with the shotguns made
by one of the most famous and
accomplished gun manufacturers in
the world. Berettas first products
it made barrels date back to
1526. Since then the company,
which is still privately owned, has
crafted arms for the military, law
enforcement and, most famously,
for sport. A Beretta shotgun is
something to be coveted in the
field. Known for their reliability
(they will literally last generations
if well looked after), even weight
distribution and pointability, they
are prized by shooters of both live
game and clay pigeons. But they are
also things of beauty, with intricate
engravings depicting game scenes.
The cheaper shotguns (and none
of them come cheap!) are machineetched, but at the higher end of the
scale they are hand-engraved, with
the finer guns taking over a year to
make. Fancy a pair of the very best?
Expect to pay at least 100,000 and
be prepared for a very lengthy wait.
So when youre out picking your
birds during the game season make
sure you dont drop them in the
mud or snow.
Photograph iStock
ITALIA!
ICONS

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Issue 135 February 2016 4.60

NEW WEBSITE! www.italytravelandlife.com

HOLIDAYS PROPERTY FOOD WINE CULTURE PEOPLE

Rome in the snow

THE UKS AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE ABOUT ITALY

Benetton after 50 years

Handpicked Holiday Rentals

Im a little embarrassed that,

PS Italia!s brand new guide to Rome & the South is on sale

The Italian Tourist

THIS MONTHS CONTRIBUTORS

FLEUR KINSON is one

JON BICKLEY takes

February 2016 ITALIA! 3

Perugia is a walkers city, but

Subscribe to Italia! for our exclusive New Years offer* and

IN THI February 2016

50 PROPERTY FOCUS: LE MARCHE

44 ROME IN THE SNOW

FOOD & DRINK

82 ROME: CENTURIES IN AN ITALIAN KITCHEN

62 RETURN TO FORTE VILLAGE

4 ITALIA! February 2016

79 FOUR TAKES ON GNOCCHI

SANTA MARGHERITA DI PULA

February 2016 ITALIA! 5

THIS MONTHS WINNER

Rick Carlotti, Pennsylvania, USA

Goretti ODea, Co. Offaly, Ireland

HOW TO ENTER Email high-resolution (300dpi) jpegs of your photos of Italy to

February 2016 ITALIA! 7

*Prosecco and cooler delivered to mainland UK addresses only

Paul Norgard, Michigan, USA

In Italian news this month, some ancient sh sauce turns up in a

SOMETHING SMELLS FISHY

SNIPPETS SNIPPETS SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS

8 ITALIA! February 2016

HARRY POTTER AND THE TOLERANT SCHOOLKIDS

lian fast food chain has opened in London.

Hey presto! Not only is Harry Potter a damn good wizard,

Experts are hoping that computer software will help

THERES NO PLACE LIKE ROME

Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci

THE BARD HITS THE BIG SCREEN

Legendary Italian auto-design company Pininfarina S.p.A

Romeo and Juliet is to be turned into a war lm

February 2016 ITALIA! 9

DONT I KNOW YOU FROM SOMEWHERE?

The glorious sports car was famously shunted over a cliff

GOING FOR GOLD

Rome has unveiled the logo for its 2024

Bronzino, Portrait of a Young Man

ESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP P

HOTEL MAKES IT SKI IN A ROW

The Cristallo Hotel Spa & Golf in Cortina dAmpezzo

FRATELLI CAMISA HAVE BEEN BRINGING TO THE

FOOD & PRODUCTS

Getting the family back to the dining table, visiting the

SUMMER FIG TREATS

The next time youre being lashed by the sleet

KEEP WARM IN ITALIAN STYLE

GET THE FAMILY COOKING

One of the best things about the

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