Weave it! S LEARN A NEW SKILL Make aresin ¢€ ii pendant for a spiral-link necklace pe 5 7 Eay chain mail pieces PLUS * Turn a hardware-store tna into a gorgeous hinged cuff pai ¢ Improve your designs wih stepped roundnose pliers p. Wire EXPRESS YOUR STYLE . a Wrap it! om How-to photos for every project j as BR . SPRING orkWVlag.com fq 2011 y mm Coil, wrap, and weave colorful components, then arrange them on a wire base to make this cuff by Lisa Niven Kelly, p. 24, Dy nt iy 17 2011 | | il olllosi28ta5 730Wirework Spring 2011 Projects 15| “I. can't even draw a stick man” necklace ‘Take alighthearted approach to heavy-duty wie to make a kinetic conversation starter. by Brenda Schrader 48 | Waterfall fern earrings Use a template to shape wire ito earings with grata sit, by ein Paton 21 | Italian fashionista necklace A funky assortment of bead dangles gives: t chat recap and weray ose byercbon tics 24| Uncommon wraps i) Cavand wene necorhl ascent cfeomponans end erage heron ‘sary aoe ylse hen Kot 29 | Custom bail and bead cages Form awe Sal pacers, and bead cages fobrng'a handrage iookto beade ea by Melody MacDutfee 33 | Infinity love knot ‘Combine knots and the infty symbol to cuggest everlasting ve. bykKinba Barn 38 | Crystal seafoam ‘Make acy neetace with exystal components and jam rings in multiple sizes. by Spider 40 | Classic pearl ring Cra arefined wire ng wth afew beads and abit ot ie by.dotn Peonng 42 | “Coiled” bracelet Color ump rings create an intriguing look inallvely bracelet-and-earrings set. ‘by Rebeca Mice 44 | Angel pendant ‘Shaped and wrapped square wire makes a heavenly pendant. by Sharon Clark 47 | Soft twist charm bracelet ‘raid flexible beading wir on a kumihimo disk rake arity spiral base for your favorite charms by Shelan Goay 51 | Hinged frame cuff Handmade hinges comect beaded frames inan inticate cut. by Barb Saar 55 | Woven wire ripple cuff Shaped and woven vite Fames make a lightweight bracelet wth great curves, byLisa Gascon 58 | Fibula pin Wake astatement pace vith heawy-gauge ‘ean an arts bead. bylisa Ley 60 | GSG chain mail bracelet Enjoy the easy rhythm of chain mall with asimo= ‘weave that has a complex look. by Dane Miler 62 | Winged delight necklace A butterfly wing encased in resin takes center Stage na nektace of pial wie ns and irecorm wrapped tops.66 | Double-cross chain atin siver and niobium jump rings to make ty jeweky set rn Fotvedt 68 | Wire-wrapped cabochon “se haltsound wire encase a stone cabochon, srg embalishtvth beac. by tina Mech 71 | Beaded Romanov bracelet Altemate paired segments of siver Byzantine chain ‘with bronze flower formations to make an innovative ‘mixod-matal bracoet. by Scott Davie Pimiea 74 | Charmed Victoriana Patterned brass vite, love knot chain lef chars, bbone, and fig components land aromartic look to amixec-media neckace by oa Bombardier 77 | Bombay bracelet Highlight a large crystal stone in a framework, offuisted and start sume ie by Date Saucer SPECIAL FEATURES 6 | From the Editor 8 | Basics A guide o wirework tectriques and supplies, 12 | Tooling Around: Four tools to step up your design potential bya Sizer 14 | Creative Minds: From stick person to first person by Brenda Schweder 82 | It's a Wrap: Flight of Fancy easing tne a edBasics TOOLBOXES Chain mail * Al, pin, or sore + Bead mat or work surface + Needle fas + Plers (2 pars): bentnose, chainnose, or fatnose ‘= Roading/magniving glasses ‘*Tumbior stos! shot, burishing ‘compound Wirework ‘= Banch block or anvil + Cup bur or wire rounder = Cutlrs: sie, end, or fs '* Hammers: chasing, ball peen, ‘108s peen ‘Malt: rawhide or plastic = Mendrels or dowels = Noodle fles * Pets: chainnose, fotnose, round- ‘ose, paral, nylon jaw * Palshing cot + Sandpaper: various gis ‘Tumbler, stool shot, burishing ‘compound, WIRE TYPES ‘Today's home-based jewelry meker has an embarrassment of riches available at her fingertips compared to days past, ‘A wide variety of wire is available in bead stores, craft and hobby shops, as well as on the Internet. One can find many diferent metals and styes of wie, includ ing round, hal-round, square, twisted, Patterned, and more. The folowing is albrlef description of some of the most popular wire types on the market. Itis generally acceptable to mix metals in your projects. One caveat — i you're seling your pieces, is imperative that You disclose the materials you've used. ‘Also, you need to consider tarnish rates. ‘While it not going to harm the metals ‘to Use them together, they will oxdize at different rates, and a year after you've ‘made your piece, it right not look the same as the day you made t. Wirework Spring 2011 Silver Staring siveris an aloy containing 82.5% siver witn the balance usualy being ‘copper or rickel. Stering tarnishes rather ‘easily, but oxidation can be controlled somewhat by keeping it stored in an airtight sealabie bag. Fire-siver wie is 90.0% siner and is softer than sterling siver wire tis best used for wranping or weaving. It vl also tamish over time, though not as rapily as storing “Argentium siveris en aloy that contains germanium, which gives the metal some tarnish resistance. t wil tamish somewhat overtime, however Gold-filled ‘The term gold-filed is misleading because instead of having a core of gold, as the name suggests, it actually has a core of base metal that is covered with a layar of 10k or higher gold. Gold must account for at least Yeo the weight to be caled "goid-filed." Gold-filed wire is relatively expensive, but it maintains its color and shine without tamishing: although, over time, the gold can wear off, especially in areas that encounter a lot of fiction Copper Raw cooper wire is sold copper without any coating. Because it is relatively inexpensive and easy to find, copper is often used as practice wire before mov- ing on to precious metas. Patina can be added to copper to darken o turn it be or green. To maintain colo seal the ‘wire with lacquer or microorystaline wax. German ewer wire consists of @ copper core plated with another metal, usualy siver or gold, ends an econom- ‘cal ontion to precious metals, Athough the plating wil eventually wear of, this most ikely Would teke several years. Coated coppe, as the name suggests, 's cooper that i coated with one of a number of possible coatings, often a cotorul vinyl or plastic. Some coated wire is touted as "permanently colored,” but the coating couid soratch of, so handle tt carelully or coat tools with tape or @ When you see this symbol ®), head over to www.Facebook.com/WireworkMagazine to find a link to a video demonstrating the techniqu rubberized tool dip. Its sometimes also called craft wire or enameled wire. Sor Of these wires are tamish resistant and ‘maintain their shine wil over time, Aluminum Aluminum vite is lightweight wie that usually comes anodized, or coated to 2 brillant array of colors. The color may scratch off, 20 handle the wire carefully Ccoat tools with tape or rudberized tool Brass Brass wir isan alloy of copper and zinc Different manufacturers offer alloys with varying percentages of these metals. Mery people lke brass as a low-cost substtute for gold because it has a similar color and luster when shiny. Bras tarnishes rather easily but can be seal: with lacquer or microcrystalline wax. Jeweier’s bronze is @ popular brass allo (tis, indeed, copper and zine, not bronze whichis an alloy of copper and tn), WIRE GAUGES Gauge’ the measure ofa wir's ciame- ter or thickness. There are two diferent gauge systems that are used for wire: The American Wire Gauge (AWG, also know as Brown & Shorpe) is usualy Used for nonferrous metals such as sive and gold the Standard Wire Gauge (SWE, also known as British Stardere or Imperial Standar) is used for base met- als, The clameters ofthe gauges are rot the same, so it's important to know \which system is being used to describe the wire you're using, Below isa chart showing the diferences between the gauges for a sampling of wire iametes. 16 4.2919 18 ean 20 ‘ogtmn 2 ‘oesmn 2 ‘Ost mn 26 O40rnm 28 Os2mm 20 26mWIRE TECHNIQUES ‘Another option is to run the wire 3 Reposition the pliers in the loop and Coiling through a pair of mylon-jaw plies. This continue roling, forming a centered Wire can be wrapped around a mandrel wil also straighten the wire, so you would circle above the bead. or other core to make a coil, which may do this beiore shaping or bending It. be decorative, functional, or both. Wire 4-This isthe fnished! loop. coiling tools like the Coiling Gizmo make © Forming spirals ‘the job fast and easy, but for small jobs 1 Grasp the end of a wire with the tips | ‘or when you're coiling directly onto a of a pair of roundnose piers, and rotate ‘ire that you'll use in your project, you the plies to form a small loop. ‘can do it by hand, 2 Grasp across the loop with chainnose ‘To make a coil, hold ‘or fatnose pliers, and use your fingers |g the coling wire to guide the wire tal around the loop. perpendicuiar to e Continue rotating untl the spiral isthe the core orman- | desired size. © Wrapped loop rel Wrap the wire 1 Make sure there is at least 1% in {82 mm) of wire above the bead. With the tip of your chainnose piers, grasp the ‘wire directly above the bead. Bend the ‘wire above the pliers into aright angle, around the core until the coils the esiredi length. Keep the wraps close to ‘each other to prevent gaps in the coil 2 Postion the jaws of your roundinose: piers in the bend. Bring the wire over Twisting square wire ‘Twisting square wire gives it a prety, Comate look. You can twist wire with the top jaw of the pliers. an electric dil or with a pin vise. B Leaving a bit of You'l get the most consistent resuts space between the | ((®) it you twist relatively shor lengths of rotations wil ge || | wie (10 in/25.5 cm or less) al atime. _youaloose spiral || _ {ef leaving no To twist wire, insert one end into the space will give you chuck of a pin vise oF electric il. Hokd+ tight spiral ight. i m ing he other end of the wire fry with flatnose pers, rotate the pin vise or =| LOOPS AND WRAPS ‘press the trigger of the electric dill to ® Plain loop ‘3 Reposition the pliers’ lower jaw snugly turn it on. Continue unt the tists Tim the wire % in. @.5 mm) above inthe curved wire. Wrap the wire down Consistent along the length of the wire. the top bead. Make a right-angle bend and around the bottom of the pies. Close to the bead This is the frst half of a wrapped 1000. 2 Grab the wire’s tip with roundnose 4 Grasp the loop with chainnose plies, Dilers. Roll the wire to form a half circle. Release the wire. Hardening wire If you're going to use wie in a structural way, it ie often beneficial to harden it, a ‘ ‘There are a few ways to do this. ‘One option isto form the wire into the Swap the wie tal sted shape an then hammer. arundthestem, | yu aso want often it somewhat, Covering the stom use chasing hammer ora bal-peen betwean the cop harm you want © harden ancl the top bead, | uithout fattening fuse 2 past “rm the excess or rawhide alt raping ite, and press the end close to the wraps, using chainnose or crimping pliers ‘wavwrNreworkMag.comSet of wraps above a top-drilled bead 1 Center a top-criled bead on 3 in. (76 rn) of wire. Bend each end of the ‘wire upward, crossing the ends into an X above the bead. 2 Using chainnose pliers, make a smal bend in each wire so the ends form a right angle, 3.Wrap the hori- zontal wire around the vertical stem as ina wrapped loop. Tim the excess ‘wrapping wire. To attach this unit to _$_ “wae _ another component, make a wrapped loop with the wire ster, FINISHING © Tumble-polishing Pace eteo shot into the tumbles bar Although you can use any shape of steel shot a combination of shapes works best the various shapes polsh croes and contours differently, ensuring an ‘even polish. Pour n water 0 over the sho, then add pinch of urnishing compound Pace your jewelry nthe tumble, and seal the bare Tn onthe tumbler, anc Itt run for 2 hours or move. Pour ine contants ofthe tumble int a seve over ash, and nse. Remove you jewel, and yf Ory the shot before storing © Patinate (darken metal) liver of sulfur Polish your piece before patinating, {you tumbie-polsh your piece after Patinating, reserve the used shot for future patinatod pieces; the lver of sulfur residue will contaminate other pieves,) Gil and dit on the pieoe can affect the patina; clean the metal wth degreasing soap before patinatng. 10 Wirework Spring 2011 Prepare a liver of suifur sohtion, ‘according to the manufacturer's instruc- tons, Dio the metal in the solution for a few eeconds, then ringe the metal in coo! ‘water to stop the chemical reaction. For a darker patina, continue to cip and ringa the metal. Use @ brass brush, ‘with soapy water to remove or modify the patina. By using different tempera- tures and amounts of water to make the solution, you can achieve different Colors of patina: experiment to find the result you prefer. MAKING AND USING JUMP RINGS Make the coil by hand Select a wooden dowel or mandrel with a diameter that matches the inside Giameter of the jump rings you want to ‘make. Dril a hole through ane end of the dowel. Insert the end of the wire into the hole to anchor it to the dowel. Wrap the wire around the mandrel or dowel, keep= ing the coils tight against one another, Cut the wire that anchors the coil If you will be using wire cutters or a flex ‘shalt and jump ring meker to cut the coil into jump sings, remove the coil from the ‘dowel. fou will be using a joweler’s ‘saw, slide the Colo the opposite end of the dowel or mandrel Cut jump rings using cutters 1 Using the fush-cut edge of your cutters ata ight angle to the col, rim the straight ware tal from each end of the coil 2.Slghtly separate the frst ho from the oil. With your cutters at a right angie and using the fush side, cut where the ‘wire completes the frst ring, Ifyou use diagonal wire cutters, one fend of your cut wil be flush and the other end will be pointed, To flush cut the pointed end, fp your cutters over to the flush-cut side, and cut again so thet both cuts are fush, Then, flush cut the ‘end of the coil to start the next ring. Ther willbe some wire waste, so make a few ‘extra cols to make up for the waste, © Cut jump rings using a saw ‘Secure the dowel against the V notch in your bench pin, and use a jowele's sav vith a 2/0 biade to cut a shalow, veri: slot atthe end ofthe dowel to guide your blade 8s you cut the col Hold the coil and dowel with your nondomi- nant hand, Saw ‘through the top of the coll, feed ing it toward the slot in the dowel Be careful not to cout the jump sings in ha, ® Make the coil and cut jump rings using a flex shaft and jump ring maker 1 you have a jump ring maker or other too, folow the manufacturers instruc- tions to make your col.2 Folowing the manufacturer's instruc- tions, secure the colin the holding device. 3 Cut the jump rings, following the manufacturer's insiruetions, © Opening and closing a jump ring 11 Hold the jump fing with two pairs of cchainnose plies. To open the jump ring, bing one pair of piers toward you and push the other pair away from you. Do ‘ot pul the jump ring open sideways. 2 To close the jump ring, reverse the direction of the pliers to bring the ends of the jump ring back together. Because jump rings, especialy those used in cchain mail, tend to spring back, you may find it hetoful to bring the tips of the ring « bit past the closed postion and then bring them back together. Jump ring sizes ‘The inside diameter of ajump ring is ‘measured by the size of the mandrel used to make it. Some jump-ring ‘Manufacturers use mandrels that are "measured in fractional inches (ike 1 in.) while others use mandrels measured in rmilimetere, which come in quarter millimeter increments. When choosing jump rings to make a project, this can be confusing, For instance, If the project, you're working on calls for "%s-in, jump rings and the vendor you're buying from sslls them in fractional inches, you're {geod to go. But whet i the ones you're purchasing are measured in milimeters? How do you know what milimeter size rings to buy? This issue comas up primariy in cchain mail projacts in which the inside diampter of the jump rings used often makes the diference between the project working or not. So, in the ‘materials lists of the chain mail projects, in this issue, we have listed the jump rings by the size used by the artist. Hf, when you go to buy or make jump rings, you find that the measurement system is not the same as what the project designer used, consult the following charts. ‘The first chart starts with the fractional Inch measurements followed by the actual milimeter equivalent. The next column shows the closest millimeter ring size that you will be able to purchase, ‘The second chart starts with mmilimeter measurements with decimal inch equivalents. The next column ‘shows the closest fractional inch ring ‘size that you'llbe able to purchase ‘along with the decimal inch equivalent. Sin, Atom) [25mm Yan @2mm [825mm Sheela, @Amm) | S5mm* Fan omm [20mm Shein em) [475mm* Theein. (6.6mm) |5.5erm* sin. 6mm) [60mm Taner [87mm %inesmm___ [95mm Zin (aon [180mm ithe Ae Giles Cocien asics’ 25 mm (0.0984in) | Yan. 0.09875 in) Smm(OHBin) | vain (0125in) 8.25 mm (0.490 in} | Yain. (0.125 in) BSmm(OAe8in) | ein (0.1406) 40mm (0487 in) [Sein (0.18625 in) “75mm (0167 in) [Mein (O4875h) BEmmO2i7 in) | Vein (0.21875 in) GOmm(O266in) | 196. (0.23488 in) B75mm(OSs4in) | Vein, (0.94575 in) Gemm(Oar4in) [sin (0S76in) 180mm (0512 in) | Vein. (0.5 n) * ithe substiuied size is smaller than the ‘exact equivalent, you might run into space ‘contains fhe design is snug to begin with. (Much thanks to Spider of Spiderchan Jewsty ‘and Febeca Mojca of Bue Buddha Boutique Tor ther help in explaining jump ring sizes, OTHER TECHNIQUE ® Crimping Use crimp beads to sacure exible beading wire, Side the crimp bees into pace, and squeeze fly ith chainnose pls toflaten it. For a more finished look, use crimping pliers: 11 Position the crimp bead in the hole that is closest to the handle of the | crimping pliers, tix 2 Holding the wires apart, squeeze the poles to compress the crimp bead, ‘making sure one | . h wire is on each side of the dent. '3 Place the crimp bead in the front hole of the pliers, and position it so the dent is facing the tips of the pliers, ‘Squeeze the pliers to fold the crimp in half, Tug on the wires to ensure that the crimp is secure.Tooling Around Then I began working with wire, | started with the basics: chainnose pliers, roundinose pliers, and flush caters. I never imagined the varity of specialty pliers available, nor did | have any idea of the ways that expanding my tool selection would change my work. | began reviewing tools for retalers and ‘manufacturers and ended up adding a Jong list of new tools, designs, and tricks to my old repertoiro. ‘Stepped roundnose pliers are a family cof witeworking too's that ! was happy to ‘add to that long list. They come ina variety of sizes, and they're especially useful for basic wireworking. Like many tools, each manufacturer or distributor may have a different name for each style of pliers. You may find them listed as “stepped roundnose,” "bail-orming,” “wire-shaping,” “coiling,” etc. Colting prs are ideal fr making hook ‘clasps as well as small ameter colis and loops. Four tools to step up your design potential Wire maven Barb Switzer explains the benefits of using four types of stepped roundnose pliers by Barb Switzer ‘The perks of these pliers What makes stepped roundnoss pls. different trom the standard roundnose. pliers | started out with? The jaws of stepped pliers aren't tapered. Shaping €an even curve in two adiacent wires or making a consistent col is a tricky task using tapered rouncnose piers but a breeze to accomplish with stepped pliers, because there's enough surface ‘rea on each step to fit multiple widths ‘of wire at the same diameter. So, for ‘example, i's easy to bend doubled wire into a sturdy, even hook clasp, Stepped pliers generally have ether three or six steps, so with a single, ver- satile too} you can eliminate that many sizes of mandrels from your tool bag. Here are a few of my favorites along with a little information about how they're used. Mae 12 Wirework Spring 2011 Master Coiler pliers My favorite type of coiling piers are the Master Coller pliers from Euro Tool. The: have a stepped roundnose jaw with a flat opposing jaw. The step sizes (2, 3.5. ‘and 5 mm) are a perfect soale to use fo ‘making coll that you can cut into jump rings or use as decorative components Ideal uses: ‘© Making wire bails ‘+ Forming modest-sized coils to cut in jump rings or use as components: ** Shaping a doubled-wire hook clasp Six-step roundnose pliers Each jaw on these pls features three straight, round steps that are perfect fo ‘winding coils. The six steps are each = iflerent diameter, so you can form the main hook of an ear wire and add the ‘small loop at the front without needingto switch to aiferent pair of piers or Gig rund your work table forthe right size mandrel. The small steps of these pliers are appropriate for 20-gauge (0.81 mm) or smaller wre. Ideal uses: © Making wire bails + Forming cols to cut into jump rings or use as components ‘* Shaping a doubled-wire hook clasp ‘+ Making smal clasp loops, ear wires, cor hooks Wrap-and-tap pliers You can wrap wire around any step in these piles and then tap the wire ightly with a mali while t's sil on the piers — hence the name *wrap-and-tap.” Available in medium or large, these pliers are great for shaping textured, fat, halt Wiap-and-tappllers ar handy for large cols, {oops hooks, clasps, earring findings, links for ‘used chains, and more. << ey OC : & or { XY ‘The Nastor Coll plers were essential ln designing and making my “tinged ‘ame cuft” See p81 for step-by-step Instrotions to make this braoslet. round, or bezel wire and strips of metal sheet, Aplastic sleeve on the flat jaw of the plers prevents wire from being marred during bending “These are very strong tools, perfect for shaping heavier gauges of wire with 10 sk of damaging the pliers jaws oF box joint, Also, they allow you to bend Wire all the way to the end, reducing waste andi saving your fingers consider- able stress. ‘Without any doubt, the medium vwrap-and-tap piers are essential for wire mavens who make their own ear wires. For wire workers who erioy meking fused links and chains, lange wrap-and- tap pers are a must-have. Forming large, consistent loops wth heawy- gauge wie is easy due tothe size and strength of these pir. Optor sic-steproundnose pliers ‘tollminate several mandroly {rom your totbox. Ideal uses for medium pliers: Making large coils, loops, S-hook clasps, chain links, andl hooks Ideal uses for large pliers: Forming toggle loops, hoop earrings, large chain links, and finger rings ‘Tool power equals design power. Adding ‘anew tod! to your collection expands your ability to design and create. Using stepped pliers, you can form refined, cconsistent clasps, chains, loops, coils, ear wires, and more entirely by hand, ‘Tools provided courtesy of Beaducation,egative axioms — statements or ideas that people accept as fact — can be dangerous fodder For example, some- ‘one, somesihere orgnated the phrase, “| can't even draw a stick man.” They probably felt like | do about math — that (don’t have a natural dispensation for numbers and their (apparent) impor- tance. But | see a bigger problem with proliferated sayings such as these, and its one of my pet peeves. | believe that these seemingly innocent statements (lito selfeacing blurts that We insert into conversation} get repeated as twisms. They are regurgitated unt they take on a life oftheir own and Conjure into @ notion that, in fct, stiles us, Words are powerlul, especialy when said aloud. And when words are spoken Often enough, we gat to believing them. ‘And worse yet, others start to believe them about us. {We've al hal this happen. starts by throwing Out what cal a statusne, may be a feing of doubt, buts really cone we want o spe. nstaad of phras- ing the status-ne as a positive incu, wwe let ourlbss confidant side cast out @ comment about our nab t, sey, creete wire ear. fends up sounding Ie this: “Pm a hack wth wie” Ten, instead of gating a thought response from your fiend or fel member who sly trina to match your tone a volayed uter- ance of, "Yea, this ~ isnt your best work,” is issued, Boor! Wet you realy wore hoping for tums into J XQ another nai in your wire creativity cof, Phooey 14 Whework Spring 2011 From stick person to first person by Brenda Schweder Not really what you were looking for, huh? But, the dirty work's been done, and none of ths folly has furthered you (on your wirework path. Furthermore, this axiom ends up stiling the very thing that this columnist holds most dear: the abilly to create and the wholeness ‘and meaning that creativity can fring Into our les, The creativity conundrum In fact, the notion that creativity is ‘somehow a trait one either possesses: ‘or does not is a crock, plain and simple, Part urban myth, part social blather, it just not how creativity happens. According to a recent Newsweek article ("The Creativity Crisis,” Po Bronson and Ashley Menryman, July 10, 2010), there's @ now take on the subject straight from neuroscience. To quote: “The lore of pop psychology is that creativity occurs on the right side of the brain. But we now know that if you tied to be creative using only the right side Of your brain, id be like ving with ideas perpetually at the tip of your tongue, Just beyond reach,” Creativity ries on how wel we combine both sides of our brains: both divergent {folowing increasingly diferent or sepe- rate courses) and convergent (coring tagether from diferent directions) ways of thinking. “Creativity requies constant shifting, blender pulses of both divergent thinking and convergent thirking, to combine nev information with old and forgotten ideas.” ‘Newsweek's Bronson and Merryman relato whether this back-and-forth thinking is learnable to becoming a pro basketball player, but we'll switch it up, Having a natural git for jewelry making helps our success quotient in seling, publishing, and/or teaching our designs. but practice closes the gap between the naturals and the rest of us. They continue, “Crucially, ranidly shiting between these modes is a top-down function under your mental control." ‘And therein fies the rub. You simply need two sides of your brain to be creativel I bet that each and every o Of you reading this column is equipped wath that! Here we thought that the arts had a monopo¥y on creativity. Wrong, So gran ‘yourself permiesion to (at least} dispel ‘any negative axioms you've been allowing in both sides of your brain, a (better yet) make way for positive new truths about your talent and abies. ‘And tal it up! Positively, and out lou! Then, tell me your stories on my blog! J want to hear about your old, stuck ways, your new creative leases, and your stil-stuck worries at vw, brendaschweder‘com. Transform “stick person’ into “frst person” — and write the story about beginning your new creative if! Brenda Schweder is the author of Stee! Wire Jewelry: Stylish Designs Simple Techniques, Artful Inspiration (Lark); Junk to Jewelry: A Step-By- Step Guide to Using Found Objects in Jewelry You Can Actually Wear; and Vintage Redux: Remake Clas and Collectible Jewelty (Kalmbach Publishing Co,). nationally recog: teacher and jewelry designer, Bren: is also a CREATE YOUR STYLE w= SWAROVSKI Elements Ambassador Contact her through her website at www.brendaschweder.com«| can’t even draw a StICK man” necklace Take a lighthearted approach to heavy-duty wire and make this kinetic conversation starter. by Brenda Schwedermaterials Nocklage 18 in. (45:7 cm) + Anmedled steal wire: 18-sau0e (1.29 mm), 35 in, (88.9 cm) tools & supplies * Wiewerk toatox, p. 8 + Hoaw- duty shear or fush cutters '* Steel woo! (00 fine); andor brass. or see vie bush + Mcrocrysaline fishing wax (ouch as Renaissance) k man components 1 To make the head and body, cut 4% in. (11.4 om) of 16-gauge (1.29 mm) wire. Bend one end around a #-in (13mm) mandrel, then bend the long tail so it's perpendicular to the loop. ‘hic will bo the head. 2 Starting ¥é in. (6.5 mm) from the head, Use rouncinose pliers to make a & mm oop perpendicular to the head, 3 Starting % in. (19 mm) from the previous loop, make a 5 mm plain loop (Basics, p. 8) perpendicular to the head, ‘Tim any excess wir. 4 To make the arms, cut 372 in, (83 mm) Of wire. Make a 5 mm plain loop on one fend, and curve the wire to match the ‘ems template, 5 To make the logs, cut 44 in. (10.8 om) of wire, and make a 3 mm loop in the center. 6 Miko a5 mm plain loop at each end of the wie 7 Curve the wire to match the Legs template. Place the head and body, arms, and legs segments on a bench block or ‘anvil, ang hammer the wie. Clean the segments with steel wool 8 Insert the arm segment through the small loop in the body (8a). To form the second "hand," make a 5 mm plain 16 Wirework Spring 2011 loop paralil to the first “hand” at the opposite end of the arm segment 9 Open the body's § mm loop (Basics, attach the leg segments center loop, ‘and close the loop.Ieckpiee font Neckpiece segments 10 To make the front segment, cut 10%4 in. 26.7 cm) of wire, and make a 3 mm plain loop at one end. Follow the Neckpiec front tornplate to oreate a curve ‘with two U shapes, then make a 3 mm plain loop at the other end, 11 To make the side segments, cut two 5:in, (12.7 om) pieces of wire. On each, make @ 3 mm plain loop perpendicular toaloop on the front segment. On the other end, make a 8 mm plain loop parallel to the loop you just made. Nechpice side «ake 2) 2 13 14 Hook 8 12 Follow the Neckpleee side template to ‘curve ane segment, Repeat with the other side segment, curving it as a mirror image ofthe firs. 13 To make an S-hook clasp, cut 19% in. (44 mm) of wire, and hammer lone end fat. 14 Makes a 3 mm loop at the other end. 15 Follow the Hook template to bend a hook shape with an angle on the flattened end, Hammer each neckpiece segment. Assembly To connect the necklace, open a loop of the front segment, attach the 3 mm loop ofa side segirent, and close the foop. Repeat on the other side. Open the loop of the S-hook clasp, attach the 5 mm loop of a side segment, ‘and close the loop, Orient the stick man body go thet the loop below the neck faces the back and the arms rise upward. Using two pairs of pliers, sightly twist each “wrist” outward, (Open a "hand! loop, attach a U shape (on the neckoiace’s front segment, and close the loop. Repeat to attach the ‘other hand! to the ather U shape. Clean the necklace with steel wool, and apply alight layer of wax to the entire piece. J Brenda Schweder {sa frequent contributor to the Kalmbach Publishing Co. family of jewelry- making publications. To read thor take on freeing your creative side and banishing negative axioms, like “can't even draw a stiok man’, see “From stick ‘person (o first person," p. 14. Contact Brenda via e-mail at ‘b@brendaschweder.com. waweWireworkMagcom 47Waterfall fern earrings Follow a template to make earrings with graceful swirls. Dematerials Earrings * Staring elver wr: “B.gauige('.02 mam) round) dead sof 11in.@7.80m) 20-getuge (081 mn), round. alt hard, Sin. (14.0) 22-gawge (0.54 mn) square, +1. @79em) 28-gauge (0.82 mm), ound, dead sot 4. din. 1.4m) + Seamiess spacer beads: 24mm 23mm a42mm tools & supplies + Wreworetooleax, © & + Ring mandrel (US. ses) stepbystep Earring frames Cut 5'/in, (14 om) of 18-gauge (1.02 mm) wire, and make a mark 2% in (60mm) tom one end. Using roundnose ples, grasp the wre atthe mar, and cross the longer wire endl over the shorter wre end, making a oop. 2.Using roundnose per, grasp the ond the shorter wie, and make an open spiral asics, p. 8) Tempiate Note: Leave the end loop of the spial_-- Embellishment ‘open 0 you can later fit a loop of twisted 5 Cut 2% in. (67 mm) of 22-gauge wire into (0.64 mm) square wir, anc twist it (Basics), Use roundinose pliers to make 3 Below the top loop, use roundnose ——_a tiny loop at ene end of the wire, then pliers to grasp each wire end, and bend start to make an open spral Fit the tiny it downward so the wires are paral loop in the center of the spiral in the shortor wire of one frame, and us your 4 Following the Template, use your thumb fingers to guide the twisted wire to match to gertty shape the longer wire to mimic the shape ofthe spiral hape of the shorter wire, leaving Mark where the twisted wire meets the x2 mm between the wires. Using top treme loop. Add 3 mm (6 in), and pliers, grasp the end of the cut the wie. Make a tiny loop facing ‘and make @ spral goingin away from the frame, ste drection of the frst spiral Repeat steps 1~4 to make a second 6 To make the twisted wire embelish- frame that miro the fret ‘ment for the longer sol, repeat step § Use. chasing hammer and bench wth 8¥4 in. (88 mm of wie, blook to hammer the frames, Do not hammer the top loop; doing so will distort 7 Gut 4 in. (10.2 em) of 28-gauge ' the shape and possibly break the wre. (0.82 mm) wrapping wire. You'l use this wewiNireworkMagcom 19gauge for wrapping wire throughout the rest of the project. Use the wrapping wire to make three: ‘wraps to attach the frame's top loop and a tiny twisted-wire loop. Thread the ‘wrapping wire through the top loop, and make three wraps to attach the frame and the remaining tiny twisied-wire loop. Using fush cutters, tim the wrapping wire at the back ofthe frame. Use bent- Rose piers to flatten the wrapping wire tails against the frame, 8 Cut7 in. (17.8 om) of wrapping wire, and make two wraps at each ofthe five connection points to attach the twisted wires to the frame. After you trim each tail at the Dack ofthe trams, fatton the tall Use nylor-jaw pliers to gently squeeze each sat of wraps to look itn place. Out 12 in. 60.5 om) of wrapping wie. At the top of the shorter frame wire, make two wraps around the twisted wie and the fame. Thread the wie under the opposite sie, and make two wraps ‘around the longer frame and twisted wire, Use fainose piers to bend the wrapping wire down between the treme wires String 12 2 mm beads on the wrap ping wie, and guide them down along the longer frame wire. Snug up the beads, and make two wraps around the Conger frame and twisted wire 10 String 2 2 mm bead, and make two ‘wraps around the frame only. 20 Wirework Spring 2011 String a 2 mm bead, and make three wraps around the frame only String a 2 mm bead, and make three ‘wraps around the frame and! twisted wire, String a 2mm bead, and make four wraps around the frame only ‘String a 2 mm bead, and make four ‘wraps around the frame only. String a 3 mm bead, and make five wraps arourid the freme only String a 4mm bead, make three wraps ‘around the frame ony, then trim and flatten the wire 11 To add a brace through the middle of the earring, cut 3 in. (76 mm) of wrapping ‘wire. Count down four beads from the top ofthe earring, and make two wraps around one of the twisted wires adjacent to the fourth bead. Wrap over the adja ccont frame wire, then make one wrap around the wire underneath the fourth bead. Take the wire under the next frame ‘wire and meke one wrap, Then make two. ‘wraps around the remaining twisted wire, “Tim and fatten the wire Repeat steps 6-11 for the other earring, Ear wires 42 Cut 2% in (70 mm) of 20-gauge (0.81 mm) wire, Using roundnose pliers, make @ smal loop at one end. Grasp the ‘wire adjacent to the foop, and bend the wire in the opposite direction ofthe loop to make a U shape about 3 mm (¥6 in} in diameter. 43 Bend the wie tal atound a ring mandala sizo U.S. 0.75-1. Use you fatnose ple to bend the end of the Lp slighty. Cut the wire 6 mm fein from the bend, Hammer the U bend the & mm (%a-n, tal, Use a cup bur lr sandpaper to smooth the end oft ear wire. Open the loop ofthe ear side on the earing’s top loop, an the loop. Repeat forthe other earring finishing fine-wire wraps To finish a wire tal soit won't stiok out, grasp it with bentnose pliors while puling and bending it up 90°. Cut the tail with flush cutters at the back, center of the frame. Then use bentnose pliers to firmly fatten the end . Erin Paton has been ‘making jewelry for ‘about 10 years. She enjoys wire- work because of the endless possibilities for creating a piece without solder. Erin selts her wor at www earringsbyerin.etsy.com. Contact her at earringsbyerin@ ‘gmail.com.Italian fashionista necklace A funky assortment of beads gives this necklace a hip and trendy look. Easy 4 wire wrapping puts this style within 1 reach of any jewelry maker. by Gretchen McHale ‘wn WireworkMag.com 2422 Materials Necklace 16 in. (40.6 om); pendant 3¥ein. (8 mm) © Wire: 26-gauge (0.4 mm), 4-6 ft. (124.8) + 85-40 mm rata ng commeonent + 9.4-20 mm beads: sored colors, stapes, and textures + 32-3mm beads + 5-8 2.5mm spaces (optional) + Chain: 20-28 in, (60.8-71.1 em, one oF moe styles + 9 2:0. 6! mm) eed pre + 22)\erp rings: 2.5 mm inside ametee + Cras tools & supplies * Wikework 0x. 8 + Sorgp re: 18-90upe (1.02 mm) ae editor's note Gretchen used a 40 mm hammered vermeil ring from Kalpataru Beads, which is a wholesale-only business. | found: 36 mm hammered vermeil rings at Beadwholesaler.com, which accepts retail clients with a $50 imum purchase, | also picked up some 85 mm Tierra Cast pewter rings in various finishes at my local bead store; those will also work great. Ask your local bead store if they carry Tierra Cast findings. ‘Wirework Spring 2011 ¥ a 4 1 To meke a dangle string @ 4-20 mm bead on a head pin, and make-a wrapped loop Basis, p. 8 and 1a) Repeat with eight beads, adding spacers above and/or below the bead as desired “To use a briolette, sting it on 3 in (76 mm) of 26-gauge (0.4 me) wire, ‘and make a wrapped loop above the top-criled bead (Basics and 18) you ish to erbelish the top of a brilette vwith additional wraps, start with 6 in (15.2 om) of wie, and continue wrap- ping the long tal over the top of the bead as desired (te, Zoutnine 41% in, (6.5-88 mm) pieces of chain, Open a jump ring (Basics), altach the end of a chain and a dangle, and close the jump ring. Fepeat ‘with the remairing chains and dangles. 3 Cut 18:n, (45.7 om) of 26-gauge (0.4 mm) wrapping wire. Make three wraps around a metal ring compons ‘Align 18-gauge (1.02 mm) scrap with the edge of the ring, and mat \wrap around the scrap wire and the (Ga) to make a loop. Remove th \wire, make three wraps around th only, then make one wrap around fing and the sorap wire. Repeat until you have a total of me loops, then make three more wre: im both wire tals, and flatten against the same side of the ring side willbe the back of the pen 4 Align the dangies in the order ‘want them to hang. Open a jr and attach the end of a chain ens Joop on the rng. Close the jume Ropeat with the remaining dang Ir desired, you can reposition th 6n the chain by opening the apc jump ring and reattaching ito 2 chain ink 5 Cut 10:in, 25.4 om) of wragei Make three wraps at the 11 0!BIG CATALOG. MAXIMUM SERVICE. MINIMUM ORDER $50. ya anon ea ae EASTERN FINDINGS Blue Buddha Boitique Take your chainmaille to the next level. Cote Bratt ye a tec eee Kits for this project now available! x zh . ¢ precision-sized jump rings in nine metals © kits & full-color instructions. « pliers and other tools es eeteene treme cen na ress CORP, eee ee) onl sewer nero Pare eo postion on your pendant, going toward 1ok postion. Make a loop then make three more mm bead on the wire, tight to the front of the pendant, make three wraps around the ring @t). Repeat to add two more 2.5 mm beads, then make a loop, fending with three wraps @e). Trim ‘and flatten the wire tals to the back of the pendant. 6 Cut two 8.in. (20.3 om) chains. (Open a jump ring, and attach one chain and a loop made in step 6. Close the jump ring. Repeat with the other chain and loop. Gretchen McHale is a jewelry designer and event planner from Philadelphia. ‘She has been making jewelry for 28 years and sells her Jewelry through her website, www.studio320jewelry.com, You can contact Gretchen at _gretchen@studios20jewelry.com. 7 Open a jump ring, and attach an end chain link and half of a clasp. Close the Jump ting, Repeat on the other chain. & oma. WirewerkMag.com 28COVER STORY 24 Wirework Sering 201% Coil and weave a colorful assortment of components, and arrange them on a sturdy base. Lash the units in place with a loopy edging. by Lisa Niven Kellymaterials Bracelet 2%-24n. (64-76 mm) diameter * Storing ver ire 1 4-gauge (1.63 mn, deec- sot, 2.61 on) 20-qauge (0.81 mm) serep wie, half-hard, 14 in. (36.6 ern) 22-gauge (0.64 mm), halt-hard, 2587.8) 24-gauge 0.51 mn, haba, 13. 4m 28-gauge (0.32 mm), dead-soft, 12f.G7m + 12-16 mm focal bead + 200-250 2-5 mm eccont beads * 1.915% or 11" seed beads * 4.4 mm daisy or str spacers tools & supplies + Wirework toolbox, p. 8 + Ring came stepbystep Flex your creativity and customize your bracelet to suit your tastes, or follow ‘my design as shown above. Preparation Coils To make ooils (Basics, p. 8), center (2.7 m) of 24-gauge (0.51 mm) raping wire on a piece of 20-gauge (0.81 mm) scrap wire. Make wraps 210und tha sorap wire, Keeping them tight, until you have 6 in (15.2 om) of Coll. Trim the wrapping-vire ta, Working (on the other side of the scrap wie, repeat to wrap the rest of the sorap wire. Remove the coil rom the scrap wire. Cut 12 "Yin. (22 mm) pieces from Fuve-uire wiven unit Woven-eye units the coll. Set the remaining coll aside to use later, Coiled units 1 Cut 2 in. (61 mm) of 22-gauge (0.64 mm) wire; this will be your core wire, Using roundnose pliers, grasp lone end of the core wire, positioning the pliers so they wil make a loop big enough to later ft on 14-gauge (1.63 mm) wire, Make a loop and a halt, turing so the tip of the wire goes toward the tip of the plier, 2 Side a “ein. (22 mm) coll onto the ore wire, and make a loop and a hatf in the same direction as the first loop (aa) The coiled unit should measure exactly 1 in. (25.5 mm) between the centers of the loops cam. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the remaining 11 coils, making sure they're all the same length. A, B, and C units 3 Follow steps 1 and 2, but instead of stringing @ coi, string beads as desired. | made beaded units as follows * A.units: String “ein, (22 mm) of 2 mm. beads (2a). Make a total of 10 A units (Gicin one pattern and four in another) * B units: String a %-n. (@ mm) coil, a4 mm bead, 1 in. (6 mm) of 15¢ or 11? seed! beads, a 4 mm bead, and a Yin. (8 mm) coil (38). Make a total of four B units. # Cunits: String % in. (19 mm) of assorted beads, This leaves a ite space on the core wire to add decora~ tive wrapping: Cut 3 in. (76 mm) of 24-gauge (0.51 mm) wrapping wire, Make a couple of wraps at one end of the core wire. Skipping over the next cone or more beads, make a wrap around the core wire. Repeat twice, and {rim the wrapping wre (le). Make a total of two C uni ww WireworkMag.com 25Five-wire woven units 4 Cut three 2-in. (51 mm) pieces of 22-gauge (0.64 msn) core wire. Insest the end 1 in. (25.5 mm) of the three wires into a ring clamp, spacing them ‘Ain. (3 mm) apart. Conter 15 in, (88.1 om) of 28-gauge (0:32 mm) wrapping wire over the top ‘wire next to the clamp. Bring the wire down, in front of the center wire, and behind the bottom wire. Make one wrap ‘around the bottom wire, then go behinci the center wire and in front of the top ‘wire. Make one wrap around the top ‘wire. Continue weaving (4a) until the ‘woven section is Yin. (3 mm). Fp the wires in the clamp, and weave the other endl (an). Tim the wrapping-wire tals, 5 Cut2in. 61 mm) of 22-gauge (0.64 mm) core wire and 12 in. (0.5 om) 0f 28-gauge (0.82 mm) wrapping wire. ‘Align the core wire with the three wires from step 4, Canter the wrapping wire at the middle of the core wire, and make a cin, (@ mm) cat a Slide a2 mm beed on the wrapping 28 Wirework Spring 2011 “ ( iN mena Wie, and make four wraps to attach the bottom wire from step 4, Slide on a 2mm bead, and make four wraps cn the core wire. Repeat (6b) unti the emibelished section on the core wire is “ein. (11 mm). used four 2 mm beads. Tim the wrapping-wire tall. Repeat to ‘embelish the other side of the core wire. Repeat to add a fith core wire (8) 6 String boads on the conter wire so the top bead is flush with the outer ‘embelishments, Make a loop at the end of each wire (@) as before. Ropeat at the other end of the unit (8). Make a total of two woven units ‘Note: When | finished this unit, the ‘center wire was longer than the rest, 0 used chainnose pliers to break the fend saed beads and then adjusted my loops 80 the wire was the right length. Woven-eye component 7 Cut two 2%6si. (64 mm) pieces 0f 22-gauge (0.64 mm) core wire Inger the ond 1% in. (32 mm) of each wire in the clamp, spacing therm 16 @ mm) apan. Center 24 in. (61 em) of 28-gau (0.82 mm) wrapping wire over the t wire next to the clamp. Bring the wrapping wire in front of the otto wire, and make one wrap. Bring it ‘ont of the top wite, and make on: wrap, Continue (7a) until the wover ection Is % in, (19 mm. Hf desi taper the component by letting the = Of the core wires got closer togeth Fp the core wires in the clamp, ar repeat to weave the other side 7) ‘Tim the wrapping-wire tats. 8 Gend the woven segment sight the center to form a boomerang (82). Using your fingernails, make in the weaving at the outer eda bend (ah). Make loops at the ends core wires as belore ‘Make another woven-eye come: in the mirror image ofthe first. 9.Using 2 in. 6t mm) of 26-gause (0.82 mm) wrapping wire, make‘several wraps to lash the outer bend of a woven-eye unit to a colled unit. Repeat with the other woven-eye unit Focal-bead unit 10 Cut 5 in. (12.7 cm) of 24-gauge (0.51 men) wire and 18 in, (45.7 om) of 28-gauge (0.32 mm) wrapping wire. Center the wrapping wire on tho 24-gauye (0.51 mm) wire, and wrap it to make a ool. Cut 2 in, (61 mm) of 22-gauge (0.64 mm) core wire, and make a loop (on one end as in step 2. Wrap the col ‘around the core wire twice. String a focal bead. Skipping over the focal bead, wrap the coll around the other end of the oore wire. Tim the coil ‘Making sure the unit is the same length as the others, make a loop to finish it. desired, make decorative bends in the col, Assembly 11 Measure your wrist ¥ in. (13 mm) ‘above your wrist bone, and add 1 in, 5 mm) to determine the total langth the h Bend 2 ft, (61 om) of 14-gauge (1.83 mm) wie so the ends are parallel and 1 in, (25.5 mm) apart; this wil be your base wire, Measuring from the bend, mark the bracelet length on the wire ends, then mark the center point between the bend and the marks you just made. Don’t trim the wire ends, of your bracelet (rom the outer edge of s t0 the outer edge of the loop). ‘youll use these to complete the hooks, Cut ft (91.4 cm) of 22-gauge (0.64 mm) wrapping wire, and wrap it around the base wire to make a 214-in (64 mm) coil Side the coil so it covers the bend. Don't trim the wrapping wire. 12 Slide the coiled and beaded units conto the base wire as desired, making ‘sure the loops all face the same irection, Snug the units close to the coil made in stap 11, and loop the ‘wrapping wire around the base and in between the units 10 make loogy sculptural wraps. Continue wrapping past the units to create a gap before the next group of units. Wrap back ‘over the frst layer of wraps to make the edging as copy as desred, 13 Slide the next set of units up to the wrapping wire, and continue wrapping as in step 12, When the wrapping wire gets short, slide it under a nearby loop, and trim, To continue wrapping, cut 2-8 ft. (61-91.4 cm) of wrapping wire, and anchor it to the base where you ended your previous wire. Continue wrapping ioosely around the base and between the units, siding the next set of compo- nents up as needed. Make sure the focal bead site at the center mark, Finish the second side as a mirror image ofthe first. Position the last set of units about % in. (19 mn) from the bracelet length mark. Anchor @ new piece of wrapping wie con the other edge of the base, and wrap it as you did the frst edge. www WteworkMag.com 27‘Wirework Spring 2011 Double hook clasp 14 Using roundnose pliers, grasp an lend mark on one wire, and pull the wire over the piers toward the front surface of the band to make a hook. Repeat with the other wire. 15 Trim each wire so that 4 in. (6 mmr) overlaps the sculptural loops. 16 Graso the vary tip of one wire with the tip of your chainnose pliers, and bend the wire nto a tight, slightly open loop (169). Pinch the loop closed with chainnose piers (168). Repeat on the other wire. 17 Gently bend the band into a bracelet shape with your hands. To clasp the bracelet, pinch the hooks together slightly, and slide them through the loop. AS an option, you may wrap the hooks together with 22-gauge (0.64 mm) wire, editor's note For an antiqued look, you can either patinate your wire before you begin working or patinate the bracelet after you've made it. Patinated wire will polish up as. you work. you patinate the bracelet, polish itin a tumbler. Lisa Nven Kelly is 2 SM an awara-winning artist who finds joy inal things beads. Usaisa reguler Contributor to many Jewery-making magazines and is the author of the book Stamped Metal Jewelry. She has been teaching beadwork and wirework for more than 15 years. These ays you wil find Lisa sticking close to home with her two yours daughters and managing her business, Beaducation.com.Custom bail and bead cages ce Sr ay Coil and spiral wire to make your own bail, spacers, and bead cages. by Melody MacDuffee www WireworkMag.ccm 29ik materials ‘Necklace 20 in. (50.8 cm) * Copper wire: round + s6-gauge (1.29 mm 0 (1.8m) + 22-gauge (0.64 mmm), 1 (45.7 om), » 24-gauige (0.51 mm), 6 yd. (5.5 m) 126 45 mm sea sediment jasper pendant, ile front to back «+ Kobo baads (ww: soulefsoranya, et + 4 13m round beods: aqua + 1210-12 mm rendales: transucent agua 1210-12 mm rondeles:rancucent teal + 2010 mm fat spacers: caramel + 98 7 mm cone eacs: caramel + 126 mm fat spacers: tool + 146mm fit spacers: caramel + Fexbie beading wre: 0.018 + 4.camp beads: copper + Hookcand-eye clasp: copper tools & supplies + Wireorktotbox p. 8 stepbystep ‘Spacers Out ft. (1.8m) of 16-gauge (1.29 mm) wire. Using the wide end! of your round- ‘nose pliers, grasp the tip of the wire and tur the pliers to begin making a coil (Basics, p. 8), rotating so the wires tio goes toward the tip ofthe pliors. Continue until your coll has 54 wraps. Using wire cutters, cut one wrap at a time to make each spacer. The spacers will have a bur from where they were cut To remove the bur, ether trim the wire with flush cutters or smooth it wath a le, Use two pairs of pliers to close each ‘spacer, as you would close a jump fing (Basics) Bail 2 Using rouncnose plies, make aU ‘bend at the center of the 16-gauge (1.29 mm) wire left over from step 1 Using a chasing hammer and bench block, hammer the U bend and Yin (13 mm) of wire on each side of At one end of the wire, meke a col, 8 in step 1, up to the fattened wire, 80 Wirework Spring 2011 te 4 Flip the coil, and position it on the tip, Of the pliers co the U bend is near the vwide end of the pliers. Starting after the flattened wire, make a coll out of the remaining straight wire. Make sure these wraps turn in the same direction as the wraps on the other coll 5 Count the wraps on both coils, trim as needed to make them eve Use your fingers to slightly curve e=s= side up. 6 Cut 6 &. (1.8 m) of 24-gauge (0.5 wie, Leaving a tin. (25.5 mm) tithe wire three times around the bail wire ‘where one coll begins. 7 Using roundnose ples, make a small loop (a. Using chainnose piers, grasp ‘208s the loop and make a spiral (Basics), Make a loop in the opposite direction, then make that loop into another spiral (78. Continue making loops and spirals), changing direction as necestary to create a dense lace that ‘covers the col. To peviodicaly anchor the lace, bring the wie in between the coils wraps 2s needed. 8 When the coil is covered, make several wraps arcund and/or into the Coil to anchor the wire. Trim the tails 9 Ropeat steps 6-8 on the other coll Pendant 10 Cut two 1-yd. 01.4 om) pisces of 24-gauge (0.51 mm) wie. Algn the wires to use them as one, and center 2 pendant on both wies. Bring the wire ends together above the pendant Using allfour ends as one poce 2, make the fst half ofa wrapped loop (Basics and toe). Side the bai's Unbeng into the loop tae), anc complete the wraps, but don't trim the wires. Continue wrapping the wires around the top of the pendant as far down as desired (100). Tim the wires at the back ofthe pendant, and hide the tals under the wraps ce, 108 soancoen MPRA Ta BIH, 108 Bead cages 11 Cut in, 22.9 om) of 22-gauge | (0.64 mm) wire, At each end of the wire, make a 10 mm (i) spiral, leaving about 5 in. (12.7 om) between the spirals. Position a spiral over one end of a 18mm round aqua beed (119) Wap the wire around the bead until you can nudge the second spiral to ‘cap the other end of the bead (1th Repeat with another 18 mm bead. Assembly (On 22 in. 66.9 om) of beading wire, center two 7 mm cone beads. Nestle the cone beads into the bal's U bend, and guide each wire end through a coil of the bail, On each end, string beads as desired (or as follows: an aqua rondell, @ teal rondelle, an aqua rondelle, three spac- ls, three cone beads, three spacers, 1.6 mm caramel spacer, a caged bead, a.6 mm caramel spacer, thres spacers, three cone beads, three spacers, an aqua rondolle,@ teal rondell, an aqua rondalle, three spacers, a cone bead, a6 mm teal spacer, a}6 mm caramel ‘spacer, three 10 mm caramel spacers, 6 mm caramel spacer, a 6 mm teal spacer, a cone bead, three spacers, a 13 mm round aqua bead, three ‘spacers, three cone beads, @ 8 mm teal ‘spacer, three spacers, a6 mm caramel ‘spacer, an aqua rordele, a teal rondelie, ‘an aqua rondole, a 6 mm caramet ‘spacer, three spacers, a 6 mm teal ta oy ‘Melody MacDuttee has been making bead and wire Jewelry for more than 20 years. This necklace Was inspired by her work as the Execu- tive Director of Soul of Somanya, ‘a nonprofit organization that helps ‘young Krobo artists in Ghana to create and marker their products. Melody has wnitten several books, I ‘i including her latest Lacy Wire Jewelry, published by Kalmbach Publishing Co. To contact Melody, visit www soulofsomanya net. ‘spacer, three cone beads, a 6 mm teal ‘spacer, a 6 mm caramel spacer, a 6 mm teal spacer, and three cone beads. ‘On one end, string a crimp bead ‘and half of a clasp. Go back through the crimp bead, crimp the crimp beat (Basics), and trim the tal, Repeat at tha other end. @ wwawnireworkdag.com 81Infinity love knot The use of knots as symbols of love and friendship dates back hundreds of years. The components in this necklace and earring set borrow characteristics from these knots and the infinity symbol to suggest everlasting love. by Kimberty Berlin wom. WireworkMag.com 38materials Necklace 16 in. 40.6 om) plus 2¥cin. (70 mm) pendant; earings * Copper wie; round, dead-sot 18-gauge (1.02 mm), 62 in, [1.3 m) » 20-gauge 0.81 mn, 64, (1.6 m) forrnecklace; Bin. 20.3 cr) for earings 24qauge (0.51 mm), 24. (61 om) fornecklace; 16 in. (40.6 cr) for crc * Copper heed pins: 22-cauge (0.84 mm), 3 in. (76 mm): 1 for recklae, 2 for earings. * Copper jump rngs: 18- or 20-gauge (1.02 or 1.81 mm), oval, 5.8% 31m: 28 for neckace + Crystal beads + 12mm tapered or cosmic “Yor nocklace {8 mmrounds: 2 for neckiace 6 mm rounds: 6 for neckace, 2 or earings + Gm bicones:2fornecklace 4 mm canes: 1 for neclace, ‘for sarngs + Copper beads ‘Smmround: 1 Yor necklace, 2 or earrings 2 mm ound: 6 for neckace, 4forcenings + Ear wires tools & supplies + Wirework 000%, 9.8 + Double barel/ballakirg pers vith 12:mm, 10 mm, 8 mm, and 6 mm jaws for dowels of equivalent izes) 84 Wirework Spring 2011 stepbystep Knot components 1 Using flush outters, cut 6 in. (15.2 om) Of 18-gauge (1.02 mrn) wire, and mark the center with a permanent marker. Place a 12 mm dowel or pliers jaw next to the mark, and bend one end of the ‘wire around it to make a loop. Reposi- tion the dowel or pliers on the other side of the mark, and make another loop opposite the first loop to form a figure 8. 2 Using one wire end, make two wraps around the center (a). Repeat withthe other end (2, Wrap each tall around an adjacent loop, keeping thom close to tthe center and wrapping them on the same side es each other fe) These wraps identify the bettor of the compo- nent. Tim the wires on one surface; this will be the back of the component Place the components outer loops on a bench block, and hammer them with a chasing hammer. 3 Repeat stops 1 and 2, using following wire lengths and dow sizes to make the remaining pons knot components © 5yéin, (14 om) wire; 10 mmo fein. (114 om) wire; 8 mm o © dein. (10.2 em) wire: mm dows ‘To make a chain knot compon= repeat steps 1 and 2 using 4 in. {10.2 om) of 20-gauge (0.81 mm and a 6mm dowel, Make a tote! 10 chain knot components. Pendant knot embellish 4.Cut 3 in, (76 mm) of 24-08 (0.51 mm) wrapping wire. On the 12 mm-loop knot component, three wraps on the left loop bel center wraps, String a 6 mm bi crystal, and make three wraps opposite loop. If there's any spec between the bicone and the edt the loops, string a 2 mm copper & both before and after the biconen m \ » ¥ 1" xB BILE LA IPLIED AB LALO NAG, Repeat to add a 6 mm bicone to the 10 mm-loop knot component and a 4.mm bicone to the 8 mm-loop knot component. Bead units ‘5 Flush cut 4 in, (10.2 cm) of 20-gauge (0.81 mm) wire, and make a wrapped loop (Basics, p. 8) at one end. String a 6 mm round crystal, and make a ‘wracped loop at the other end, but don't tim the tail, Wrap the tai around ‘the bead and then around the wraps. at the first ond, Tiim the tall close to the wraps, and flatten it, Make a total Of six 6 mm bead units, Repeat with 5 in. (12.7 om) of 18-gauge (4.02 mm) wire and an 8 mm crystal Make a total of two 8 mm bead units. 6 To make a dangle, sting a 2 mm copper bead, a 12 mm tapered or cosmic bead, a8 mm copper bead, and a2 mm copper bead on 2 head pin, and make a wrapped loop. Clasp T To make a hook, flush cut 3%. (69 mm) of 18-gauge (1.02 mm) wire, and use a fle or cup bur to round both lends. Using roundnose piers, make a tiny loop at one end of the wire. Bend the wire over a 6 mm dowel or pfers jaw unti the wire nearly touches the tiny loop (a. At the other end of the wiro, ‘make a wrapped loop (7b). Hammer the ook and the loop. 8 To make a loop, flush cut 3% in, (89mm) of 18-gauge (1.02 mm) wire, land round the ends. Make a wrapped loop at one end of the wire. Using a ‘6 mm dowel or pliers jaw, make a large ‘wrapped loop at the other end. Rotate the loops $0 they are perpendicular to ‘each other. Hammer the lange loop. Pendant assembly 9 Align the 12 mm-loop knot compo: rent with the 10 mm-loop knot ‘component so the bottom edges are facing down. Open two oval jump rings (Basics), attach the knot componente’ loops, and close the jump rings. Repeat to attach the remaining two 18-gauge (1.02 mm) knot components in descending size, 10 Use two oval jump rings to attach the 12 mm dangle to the two loops of the bottom component. Chain assembly 11 Using oval jump rings, attach components to make the chain in the ‘following order, starting at the pendant’s ‘09 left loop: 8 mm bead unit, chain knot component, 6 mm bead unit. Continue alternating chain knot components and 6 mm bead units Unt you have a total of four knot components and three 6 mm units, Atthe end, attach one more knot ‘component and one haif of the clasp. Repeat this step on the other side, Earrings 12 Make two 20-gauge (0.81 mm) knot components asin step 3 of the neck- lace. Cut 3in. (76 mm) of 24-gauge {0.51 mm) wie, anc make three wraps ‘around one loop of a component, String 2.4mm bioone arysial, make three wraps around the opposite side of the loop, and trim the wire tals. Repeat vo.WheworkMag.com 35to add a crysial n the other loop. Repeat this step with the other knot component: 13 Ona head pin, string a 2 mm copper bead, a mm round crystal, a3 mm ‘copper bead, and a 2 mm copper bead Make the first half of a wrapped loop, Slide one loop of a knot component into the wrapped loop, and complete the ‘wraps. Repeat with the other component. 14 Open the loop of an ear wire, attach itto the remaining loop of a component, land close the loop. Repeat with the ‘ther component. Kimberly Beric> been making © Jewelry since = mentary schoo She enjoys w with wire loops connectors, and spirals. Wne= ‘she's not making jewelry, s reading, rock hunting, anc inspiration in her surroundines new designs. Contact Kinibew care of Wirework magazine Gy METALLIFEROUS www.metalliferous.com 888-944-0909 36 Wrework Spring 2017Crystal seafoam Combine multiple sizes of jump rings with crystal ovals for a pretty, lacy necklace with beautiful drape. cematerials Neokiace 18 in. (45.7 em) #9 15% 11 mm Swarowst oval ngs * Stering stver or glee jum rings: (628 “dump rng sas," p. 1, for metric conversions of jump rings) YB-gauge (1.02 mm), Yeh sia diameter (1D), $1 (Fring A) * 20-gauige (0.81 mm), Ye in. ID, 72 {fing B) * 19-gauge (0.91 mm), “Ae in. 1, 18 fring C) + 19-gaug6 (091 mm), Ye. 1D, 36 fing D) + 19-gauge (091 mm), Hein. 1D, 36 tring E) = 19-gauge (091 mm), Ain. 1D, 39 no F) + 12-gauge (2.05 men), 4in.10, 10 ting G) + Lobster claw clasp tools & supplies * Chain ral cobox, p. 8 + 2paie duc biled piers (options stepbystep 11 Refer to the materials list forthe sizes land gauges of the jump rings. Open 10 A tings (Basics, p. 8). You'll have to ‘open them wider than usual to aecom- ‘modate the crystal ovals. Attach one to acrystal oval, and close it. Repeat to attach all 10 As to the crystal. Repeat this step with the remaining eight crystals. There willbe one A remaining: you'll use it later, 2 Ciose all the B rings, and open all, the C rings. On one crystal, slide aC through the center two As and four Bs Close the C. Side another C through the ‘As and Bs to double it. Repeat this step on the remaining crystal units. 3 Open all the D rings. Side @ D through ‘two Bis dangling trom a pair of Cs and the adjacent two As attached to the crystal, Side two more Bs onto the D, and close it. Double the D. Repeat on the other side of the Os. Repeat this step on the remaining crystal units. 4 Open all the E rings. Side an E through the two Bs dangling from a pair of Ds and the adjacent two As attached toa crystal. Close the E. Double the E. Repeat on the other side. Repeat this step on the remaining crystal units, 5 Open all the Frings. Side an & through a pai of Es on a unit, and close it, Double the F. Repeat on the other side. Repeat this step on the remaining crystal units. There willbe three Fs remaining; you'l use these later. 6 Open all the G rings. To avoid marring the large G rings, use your fingers to ‘open them, or use two pairs of duck- billed pliers, coming in straight on the ring from each side. Slide a G through a pair of Fon each of two units, and ‘lose it. Repeat to attach all the units into a chain, Add a G at each end 7 Sido a romeining F onto an end ©, and clase ft. Double the F Side the last F through the pair of Fs just added and the loop of a clasp. Close the F 8 Slide the remaining A onto the G at the other end, and clase it. 5) Spider has been ‘making chain mail jewelry for more than 13 years. Her favorite aspect of this necklace is how the gradated ring sizes along the bottom edge look lke bubbles on a wave, To see more of Spider's work ‘or fo purchase kits for this necklace ‘or her other projects, e-mail her at spider@spiderchain.com or visit her website, wurw.spiderchain.com. wmwireworkMag.com 99Classic pearl ring It takes minimal time and materials to craft this refined wire ring. Cae) by John Penning: materials Ring + Sletig siver wre: 20-gauge (081 mr, round, deed-sof, 10 in. (254 em) + 6 mmcysial peel + 24mm arestal pears + 25mm spacers tools & supplies + Wireore toolbox, p. 8 + Fing mance +* Vise (optional) 1.Cut 10 in, (25.4 em) of 20-gauge (0.81 mm) wire, end pul the ends upward gantly to give ita slight curve. (On the curved wire, center a 4 mm ‘bead, a § mm spacer, @ 6 mm bead, a6 mm spacer, and a 4 mm bead. 2 Posttion the beaded wire on a ring ‘mandrel at the mar that’s one half size largor than the desired ring size, keeping the beads tight together and immoboitz: ing the mancrel in a vise or against your chest. Wrap each wire end around the mandrel, making sure they don't cross. 3 Grasp both ends of the wire, ancl wrap each end around the base of the ‘group of beads. Each end should point back toward the side it came from. 4 Remove the ring from the mandrel, {and wrap each wire end around the adjacent shank of the ring, just below the bead group. Make a total of three wraps on each side. 5 Tim each wire tal inside the shank so the wire tips sit in the "valley" between the shank wires, Press the wie tps ito the valey. Using chainnose ors, gery squeeze the wre wraps in lace 6 Place the ring back on the mandrel Ifthe ring is smaller than your desired size, use a leather mallet to gently tap (on the 6 mm bead and the 5 mm spacers a couple of times. Turn the ring over, and repeat If desired, polish the ring in a rotary tumbler or with a polishing cloth. RIM eee anon rena any OE igre ing, cain chars poset, Send eape eta and mere Cachan Japanae Gases = Grant prices nd service tat shiping rrrehy muna nth onles = Now lt pring» ‘mal: cndyvickadgoodbsadzcom tent/cek 907-727-8361 the best source for all your design needs John Penning has been making wire Jewelry for six years. He enjoys the satistaction of ‘oreating something beautiful with his hands, a few tools, and basic supplies. He's fond of this ring because it's simple in concept yet also refined and complete. To see more of John's work, visit www. ‘wirewrappedgemstones,com. everything you need Pee Ree wuweWiroworkMag.com 41Mimic the look of coiled wire with tiny jump rings strung on larger rings. It’s a simple technique with lots of potential. by Rebeca Mojica 42 Wirework Spring 2011stepbystep Coiled bracelet 1 Close 34 and open 10 *-in, niobium jump rings (Basics, p. 8). Open a %4-in. stering silver jump ring. Sle the closed riobium rings onto the %-in. ring, and lose t. 22 To Minish the nioblur component, attach the open niobium rings to the Stein, ring; there should be a total of 44 riobium rings on the %-in, ring 3 Open two Yarn. 20-gauge (0.81 mm) stating siver jump rings. Side one through thee niobium rings on the riobium component, and close it Repeat with the other %é-n, 20-gauge (0.81 mm) ring to doubie it 4 Open three Yé-in. 20-gauge (0.81 rm) rings added in the previous step, and close it. Add two rings to triplet; this set of three rings is a connection point 5 Repoat steps 3 and 4 on the other side of the niobium component. To ‘make the component symmetrical, ‘make sure there are 19 niobium rings ‘between the sets of stering rings. Repeat steps 1-5 to make a total of five units 6 Open a "vin, steing siver jump ring, and aide it through a connection point (on two niobium units. Close the ring, Repeat to connect the remaining units. 7 To attach the loop half of a toggle clasp, open a 's6.-in. ring, sida it through the connection point at one encl of the bracelet, and close it. Open a Yarn. 17-gauge (1-15 mm} jump ring, silver rings, Slide one through the pair of attach it to the "rin. ring and the clasp Rebeca Mojica runs Blue Buddha Boutique, an ontine chain mail supply store, and recently released her first ‘book, Chained: Create Gorgeous Chain Mail Jewelry One Ring at a Time. To see more of Rebece’s work or order kits and jump rings, go to www.biuebuddhaboutique. ‘com. Contact her at rebeca@ bluebudahaboutique.com. loop, and close it. Double the Yi. 17-gauge (1.18 mm) jump ring if fits, ‘To attach the toggle bar, open a "sin, ring, and slide it through the connection point at the other end of the bracelet. Using 17-gauge ({.15 mm) jump rings, make a two- oF three-tink Chain off the 196n. ring, attaching the toggle bar before you close the final ring Earrings “To make earrings, follow steps 14, then Use a '944-n, jump ring to attach an ear wire to the connection point. i materials Bracelet 8 in. (20.3 om); earrings * Stating siverjump tags: (620 ump ng sizes "p11, for metic conversions of jump ngs) +1 gauge (1.18 mm, 94in sie ameter (0:5 for brace, 2for earings 48-gauge (1.46 mn), "in. 6 fr bracelet, 2 for earings + 20-gauge 081 mr, in ID: 50 for bracelet, 10 for earings + 1T-gauge (1.18 mm), Yin, D, 1-8 for bracelet to connect the clasp) * Niobium jump rings: 20-gauge (0.81 mm), in. 0: 220 for bracelet, 68 for earrnga + Toggle cas + Ear wes tools & supplies * Chain mail toolbox, p. 8Make this easy angel to watch over you or your loved ones. Choose birthstone colors for the dangles to make a mother’s or grandmother's pendant. by Sharon Clark aimaterials t Pendant 1% 1 in. 48 x = Storing siver vite: + 20-gauge (0.8 mm), square hal hard, 12 in, (60.5 em) + 38-gauge (1,02 mm, hafound, halthard, 3in, (76 ene) + Costal beads © 8mm rund + 5 4mm bicores (optional #5 head pins: 1i4in, (88 mn) (epttonah + 8mm jume rng tools & supplies + Witework oobox, p. 8 of stepbystep 1 Cut three 2%4-in, (70 mm) pieces and two 136-in, (88 mm) piaces of square wire, Arrange the wires in a row, placing the two short wires on the edges. Use scrap wire to temporarily wrap them: together, making one end of the wires ‘even, Mark the wires 7 in, (22 mmm) from the even end. 2.Cut3 in. (76 mm) of half-round wire, and use fatnose pliers to make a small hook at one end, bending the wire ‘toward the flat suriace and slightly to one side. 3 Place the hook on the wires at the ‘mark, pointing the hook toward the even fend (32). Using the long endl of the half round wire, make one wrap around the bundle, going toward the uneven end. Use flatnose piers to squeeze the wrap to the bundle. Continue to make wraps, ‘round the bundle, squeezing each wrap tight, untl you have six or seven wraps. Trim the wire on the same side of the bundle as the hook (aby this will be the back of the pendant, Remove the temporary wraps. 4 On the back of the even end, mark the wires % in. (16 mm) and 5 in, (19 mm} from the end of the wraps. Spread the wires. 5 Cut the outer two wires at the % in. (16 mm) mark and the next two wires at the % in, (19 mm) mark Ba), Using roundinose piles, make a loop toward the center on each of the four outer wire ends (i), 6 Bend the center wite 46° to one side (6a), and make 2 loop (6b), 7 At the other end of the bundle, tim the outer wires %in. (9.6 mm) from the wraps. Make each wire into a loop facing outward. 8 Place a mandrel above a loop made in step 7, and cure the adjacent wire over it Repeat with the wire onthe other side to make a heart shape. On the ond of each wite, make an upward facing loop.| Beginner or professional bead stinger, jewelry designer or wire artist, t doesn't mater - Xuron tals are fra ski ives and al types ofjewelty work. Xuron manufactures a complet tine of quality crated hand tools that wil simply and enhance every project. uron's patented Micro-Shear® blade by-pass cutting action ensures straight square cus while our Ietime guaranteed Light-Touch™ retun springs and cushioned Xuro-Rubber™ ‘grips provide all day carat. To earn more about Xuron's fl line of jwtlry making tools, please call, rite ar email for ou fee catalog, vaseinusk Piaase call or wit for ee) fl ine catalog, www.xuron.com 15 &Canaan Sls uo Carat, 62 stil Par aad Son ME 0072 «EL 297 2-141 « sds com International Sales 2E0 Group, Choices, A021 Si + TEL Gl7/abo-azay « risa@eedgroupine com TOP NOTCH, SPEEDY SERVICE Sterling silver, Argentium sterling, fine silver, 14 gold, gold filled, nickel, copper, red brass, yellow brass sheet & ‘wire mill products, soldering alloys and supplies, polishing equipment, cabochons, gemstone, glass & turquoise beads, smithing & wire wrapping tools, precious & plated jewelry findings, Swarovski crystals & findings, freshwater pearls, books, display & storage items, le ¥ ‘The loops should be about even wi the bottom of the wrans. 9.0n the center wire, sting a 6 m= bbead and a 6 mm jump ring. On == of the wire, make a loop towarc =» of the pendant (8a). Place your ma halfway between the bead and and curve the wire Back untl the meets the top of the bead (a 10 To mate an optional dangle 4 mm bicone crystal ona heed make a plain loop (asics, p. 8) to make a total of ve dangees loop of a dangle Basics), atta atthe bottom af the pendant, it Repeat to attach a dangle to = loop atthe bottom of the pene who is battling cancer. Contax ‘Sharon at (810) 797-4956 or via e-mail at sac_motifs@yarox: com, or visit her website, www.sacmotifs.com.Soft twist charm bracelet Put a new twist on an old technique by using flexible beading wire in this kumihimo braid bracelet. To finish off this fast, fun project, make your own bead caps and add your favorite charms. by Shellah Cleary es _ rw. WireworkMag.commaterials Bracelet 8 in. (20.8 cm) ‘Flexible beading wire: 0.014, 21 or more inner strands, 100: (81 m) spool + Wre, halthard: + 18-gauge (1.02 mm), round, 24, (61 om) = 20-gauge (0.81 mm), round, 12in, 20.5 om} or 6 20-gauge (0.81 mm, 4 mm ump rngs = Bchams = Gasp wth 2jump rings tools & supplies + Wikework toolbox, p. 8 + Paine’ tape + Homanaka kumio osk with 16 plastic bosbins + £0000 adhesive or Euro Tock Super New Glue + Toothpick or sorap wire Braid 1 Cut three 22-in, (55.9 om) pieces of beading wire, Align the wire ends, press them onto a é-in. (1 mm) piece of paintor’s tape, and press the painter's tape into a plastic bobbin (1), Without twisting the wires, wrap them around the bobbin (1m) until about 7 in. (17.8 orn) remain, Snap the bobbin closed. Repeat ‘to make a total of 16 bobbins with three ‘wires each. Snap eight bobbins together to make a stack (te). Repeat with the ‘other eight bobbins. 2.Cut a 2-in, (51 mm) piece of painter's tape, and sot it sticky-side up on your ‘work surface, Align all the wire ends and place them on the tape. Use a toothpick ‘or scrap wire to spread adhesive onto and between all the wres. Carefully fold the tape around the wire oundla, Keep- ing it neat. Set the bundle aside to dry. 3 When the gue has cried, quid the wire bundle down through the hole in akurmitimo disk, 2nd hold the cisk vith your nondorrinant han With your other hand, arrange the wire ‘groups as shown 48 Wirework Spring 2011 4 To braid the wires, use your dominant hand, and work in pairs cf movements as folows: ‘= Remove the wires from siot 8, and move them clockwise around the disk into slot 25 (Figure a. ‘+ Remove the wires trom slot 24, and move them counterciockwise into slot (Figure, ‘© Move the slot 7 wires clockwise into Slot 24 (Figure). * Move the slot 23 wires counterc wise into slot 8 Figure a. ‘+ Move the slot 6 wires clockwise slot 23. + Move the slot 22 wires cou ‘wise into slot 7. * Move the slot 5 wires clock slot 22, * Move the slot 21 wires counte: ‘wise into stot 6.Figure e * Move the slot 4 wires clockwise into slot 21 '* Move the slot 20 wites counterclock- wise into slot 5, ‘* Move the slot 8 wires clockwise into slot 20, ‘Move the slot 19 wires counterclock- ‘wise into slot 4, * Move the siot 2 vires clociawise into slot 19, * Move the slot 18 wires counterclack- wise into slot 8, ‘+ Move the slot 1 wires clockwise into slot 18, ‘¢ Move the slot 17 wites counterclock- wise into slot 2. Repeat the entire sequence of move~ ments, rotating around the disk as you ‘work. Determine the desired finished length of your bracelet, subtract about in, (25.5 mmn) for the clasp, and continue until the braid is this length. Leaving the wires on the dis, use a toothpick or scrap wire to spread ‘adhesive on end between them at the end of the braid. Allow the glue to dry. Remove the braid from the disk, ‘and remove the tape from the braid. Cut the wires at each end so the braid is the desired length and the ends are even, Finishing 5 To make an end cap, cut 12in. (605 om) of 18-gauge (1.02 mm) wire. Using a 4.mm mance or the 4 rim jaw of coling or roundnose pliers, wrap the wire to make a Sin. (2.5 mm) coll i ww: reworkMagicom 49Bacto poet J pemertiend me (Basics, p. 8). Test-ft the coll over cone end of the braid, adjust the coil if needed, and trim the wire tall fush. 6G Insert fainose pliers under the last half of the last coil, and make a 90° bend to ‘orm a loop. Apply adhesive to one end of the braid, and slide the colled end cap in place. Let dry. Repeat steps 5-6 at the other end of the brad, 7 Open six 4 mm 20-gauge (0.81 mm) jump rings (Basios), or make your own Basic) Decide where your charms wil hang ‘rom your braid. Using an open jump fing, aitach a charm and a wire in the braid, and close the jump ring. Repeat vith the remaining charms. 8 On one half of a clasp, open its jump ring, attach the loop of an end cap, and close the jump ring. Repeat at the other end. Vick vawiFacebock.cony * WireworeMagazine to watch tree short videos ‘oy Sheth Cicary demanstrating the setup for ti profect. designer's notes '* If you're going to set up the bob- bins in the evening and work your brid the next day, E6000 is a r= adhesive to use f you can't wat Euro Tools Super New Glue instez it dis rock soi in 10-15 min + | euggested stating with 22: (65.9 om) wites so that you ma an error partway through, you Just keep braiding unti you na tasabe length, Ifyou were to star with a shorter length and make 2 mistake, you'd have to scrap the entire project. Onoe you get the hang of this technique, you can with 15-in. (38.1 cm) wires inste Sheilah Cleary has boon adevetad bee p> tovie Her nocoe FER crivork nes won ree and hor autontialyrorecuc== Batimore Abu ql wes com the mest of cass sever rational compotion, Hoven her best-known creations — ar he favors harouork veo wm and boad design. To soe tno of Sholah's work vit hex weboto, wn sheboad com E-mail her at shebeads @aol.czHinged frame cuff Handmade hinges connect beaded frames (made from hardware cloth!) in this intricate cuff. Choose your favorite beads to customize your bracelet. by Barb Switzer wn.WireworkMag.com 81materials Bracelet 7% in. (19.1 cm) + Stern sve vite, ond, ceae-sort + 16-gauge (1.29 mn, {Bin (457 om) 18-gauge (1.02 mm}, 5 ft. (1.5m) + 30-gauge (0.26 mm), 16 ft. (4.9m) + B horaware-th fares: 1 x2in. (25.5 x51 mm) (sae “Designer's note," below) + 32-40 6 mm beads + 82-60.3-4 mm beads + 32-60 4 mn daisy spacers © 4-6 1-1.5 mm spacers (to string between clasp cols, eptiona + 8.98" cyinder beads + Box casp '* 2 jump rings: 18-gauge (1.02 mm), ‘4mm inside hamete (optional) tools & supplies + Wrowerk toobox, p. 8 + Three-step Master Colercxiing pars '* G-S Hypo Cement (optional) designer's note The frames are cut from Yin (13 mm) hardware cloth, which is made of 19-gauge (0.91 mm) ‘galvanized steel wire and comes in rolls from garden centers and hardware stores. | sell precut kite that inoludo the frames and the 30-gauge (0.26 mm) wrapping wire at my website, www.beadswitzer.com. If you wish to eut your own frames, use a Dremel rotary hand ‘tool with a fiberglass cutting blade to separate the pioces. Always use extreme caution, ‘covering your eyes, nose, mouth, ‘and exposed skin to prevent injury. You could also use heavy- duty shears or old cutters, but you'll need to file the edges after cutting. Do not use your good Jewelry cutters on this material. Wirework Spring 2011 stepbystep Hinge findings 1 Cut 16 2%-in. (70 mm) pieces ot 18-gauge (1.02 mm) wire, making sure both ends ae cut flush Tip: Cut one pieoe and use ito mea ‘sure the remaining pieces to the same exact length. Using the smaliest step of your coiling pliers, grasp the tio of one wire and tum the pliers to begin making a coil, rotating so the wire's tip goes toward ‘the inside of the pliers. Make two-and- achalf wraps. 2 Repeat on the other end of the wire, rotating so the wire's tip goes toward the tip of tha pliers @a). The two coils should face the same direction, Measure the ‘wire between the cols; it should be %ain. (14 mm), and a harcware-cloth frame should ft between the coils (2. Ifthe straight segment is too long or too short, adjust the coils as needed. This hinge finding has two sides. 7 side with the straight span of wire front and the side that shows the v ‘ends is the back, Repeat steps 1 and 2 to make = of 16 hinge findings. Frames ‘The harcware-cloth frames also fy front and back side. Tha side on \ the short wires cross over the fon ‘willbe on the front of the bracelet 3 Center 24 in, (61 om) of 30-gau: (0.26 mm) wrapping wire on one side of a frame, and make two (82), Position a hinge finding alo adjacent short side of the frame the front of the hinge finding and front ofthe frame are facing the direction and the coils on the hing ing face the center ofthe frame (3 ‘Wrap around both the hinge fins ‘and the frame (8e), making 12~ across the frame (3d). Turn the and wrap the long side, making sx = eight wraps per square (2).4.Using the same wrapping wire, repeat ‘step 3 to position a hinge finding along the other short side anc make wraps, Do not trim the wire tll 5 Using the tail from stop 3, make a few wraps to reach one-third of the way down the frame's short edge. Slide 3-6 mm beads and spacers as dested (used a 6 mm, a 4 mm daisy spacer, and a 4 mm) onfo the wrapping wire. ‘The beads should span the square, but to prevent them from bucking and popping out of the frame, allow a litle wiggle room, Make one or two wraos ‘around the opposite frame wire. Thread the wire back through the beads. 6 Wrap the wire around the frame several times to create a gap before adding the next row. Using the same wrapping wire, repeat step 6, altemating the position of the beads as desired so the rows fit 7 Add two rows of beads in the remain- ing square, positioning them either parallel or perpendicular to the beads in the frst square. 8 Make a few wraps around the frame, and trim the wrapping wire to % in. (0.5 mm). Using the wire tai, make a spiral (Basics, p. 8), Press the spiral against the frame, and give itn place ‘with a drop of G-S Hypo Cement. ‘Alternatively, skip the spiral, and wrap the tail around the frame five or six times. Tim the end, and press it against the frame. Repeat steos 3-8 with the remaining frames and hinge findings, varying the bead choice and placement as desired, Assembly 9 To make a hinge pin, use fush cutters to cuta 1%-in. (44 mm) piece of 16-gauge (1.29 mm) wire, Using chain- nose or fatnose ples, grasp the wire about ¥ in. (@ mm) from one end, and make a rght-angle bend. Bond the short fend ofthe wit into @ hook, and use piers to squeeze the hook closed. 10 Align two frames so the hinge coils of one are stacked above the hinge coils of the other. Side the hinge pin through the first two coils, seven 8° cylinder beads, and the remaining two coils. designer's note When you're threading the hinge pins to attach the frames, you can ‘substitute sections of coiled wire for the 8° cylinder beads. won WireworkMag.com 83| | spree shhh \ a i 130 shomn 11 Grasp the hinge pin Vein, (1.5 mm) ‘fom the last col, and make aright- ‘angle bend (tts). Leaving the space between the col and the bends essential it alows the frames to move freely on their hinges. if necessary, ‘trim the wire to % in. (3 mm) from the bend. Meke @ second hook (11b). Repeat steps 9-11 to connect the remaining frames, attaching them in @ z2gzaq pattem, End components 12 Flush-cut 7% in (19.1 om) of 18-gauge (1.02 mm) wire, and mark. the canter with a permanent marker. Using the smallest step of your coiling pliers and rotating so the wires tip goes toward the inside of the piers, make & coil that ends ¥en. {5 mm) from the coanter mark (12a. Ir the loops on your box clasp are perpendicular to the clasp, string one half of the clasp on the wire now. (f the oops are parallel to the olasp, you can attach it after you've assembled both ‘end components.) 154 Wirework Spring 2011 (On the other end of the wire, make another cal of the same length, coling toward the tip of the pliers 80 the coils go in the same direction (12m). There should be % in, (9.5 mrn) between the coils. I your coils aren't exactly the same length, trim the longer one to match the shorter one. 113 Using roundnose or coling pliers, ‘grasp the wire’s canter mark (138). Bend each end down to make @ U, and align the coils with each other (tab. If you're using a two-strand clasp, youll need to make a square bend (139 Repeat steps 12 and 13 to make ‘second end component. 14 Cut wire for a hinge pin and make the frst hook. Slide the hinge pin through a coll on an end fram, an end component coll, one or more spacer beads or 8 oylinders, the remaining end component coil, and the remaining frame coil. Complete the second hook of the hinge pin, Repeat to attach the remaining Barb Switzer hes been making jens for 15 years and started working w= wire ater a good triend gave her tools and wire as a birthday git She enjoys weaving and shapine wire and turning a simple line int= a three-dimensional stracture. To see more of Barb's work; vist wwu.beadswitzer.com. Contact Barb at beadswitzer @yahoo.com end component to the other ent the bracelet 15 If your box clasp loops are para with the clasp, open a 4 mm jum (Basics), attach a U-bend and land close the jump ring. Repeat ‘other end, &wae Woven wire ripple cuff Connect shaped and woven wire frames to make a lightweight cuff with great curves. Embellish the design with a few beads at the intersections of the frames and fanciful spirals at the ends. ‘by Lisa Claxtonmaterials ‘Cuff 2-in, (64 mm) diameter + Storing svr wre: 20-gav00 (0.8 rm), ound, hatha, Bhim + Finesiver wo: 26. gauge (0.4 mer, round, dead-sof 38 (10.1 mi) (oz) + 66-8 mm tetbeck or eoir-ehaped beads tools & supplies = Wirework toobox,p. 8 + FingerPro tape ‘= Fing clamp (optional) = Wire ig + Liver of sultur optena a ‘The weaving process is very hard on the fingers. To prevent injury, wrap the forefinger and thumb of your dominant hand with tape before you start weaving, Frame segments 1 Cut two 15-in. (8.1 om) pieces of 20-gauge (0.81 mm) wie; these wit be the core wires. If desired, run them through nylon-jaw pliers to straighten them, Cut 121. (8.7 m) of 26-gauge (0.4 mm) weaving wire Hold the core wires together go the tends are even. Position the weaving wire between the core wires about 4 in, (10.2 em) from one end of the core wires. Place the core wires ina ring ‘lamp adjacent to the weeving wie, if desired. The ring clamp isn’t necessary, but it helps to reduce hand fatigue, 2 Tightly bring the weaving wire over the top wire, between the core wires, under the bottom wire, and back between the core wires. 56 Wirework Spring 2011 3 From this point on, weave the wire in four rhythmic motions for each row: « Tightly bring the weaving wire over the top core wire (3), ‘Pull the weaving wire fly between the core wires, locking itn place with a thumbnail or fingernail (0, * Tightly bring the weaving wire under the bottom core wire (a) * Pull the weaving wire firmly between the core wires, locking it in place with aa thumbnail or fingernail (a). 4 Continue weaving as in step 3 until the ‘woven segment is about 8 in, (20.8 om) To keep your work straight and even, repostion your gripping hand or the ring clamp close to the weaving every Vn (13 mm) or so peat steos 1~4 to make another frame segment. Shaping the frame segments 5 Position pegs in a wire jig as shown, 6 keeping a frame segment ft against the jg, gue it around the peg groups to make a total of seven bends. M jigs ae smaller than the length of frame segments, so youll probabi have to reposition the frame segrne to completa the shaping. Use noma pliers to fatton the frame segment ‘against the jig 2s needed 7 Place one frame segment on top of the other with the bends going i= opposite directions. At one end, b= the frames right after the last inters= tion go the four core wires are par If necessary, add or remiove weavins ‘wire on one or both frame segr so the weaving ends at the same B Cut ft. (91.4 cm) of weaving v and wrap it once around the top wire, Weave it over the next core wes Under the following core wire, an: around the bottom core wire. Co: weaving under and over the core va for about ¥ in, (13 mn) to join the 9 Alternately cross the frame at the intersection points. Gently| asin saan soca 10 pari atic sia the bracelet around your wrist, and repeat step 8 to join the other end. Test the fit. The clasp will add about 1 in, (25.5 mm), so add or remove rows of weaving at each joined section as needed to create the desired length. Clasp and finishing 10 On one end, continue weaving Cone pair of core wires for about 1 in (25.5 mm), Repeat at the other end of the bracelet, but extend the weaving fon the other pair of wires. 11.0n one end, shape the 1-in (28.5 mm) woven section into a hook. Cut each of the hook’s core wires % in. (19 mmm) from the end of the woven section, Using roundnose and chain- nose pliers, make a spiral (Basios, p. 8) fon the end of each core wir. 12 On this end ofthe bracelet, there are two remaining core wires, Cut the bottom core wire about % in. (13 mm) from the woven section and the inner core wire about % in, (19 mm) from the ‘woven section. Work asin step 11 to shape each wire end into a spiral facing away fom the frame, Repeat steps 11 and 12 at the other end the bracetet, positioning the hook in the opposite ditection from the frst one. Tim any remaining wire tis fush against the back side of the cuff, and se chainnose piers to flatten them. 13 Centor a 6-8 mm bead on 6 in. (18:2 om) of wrapping wire. Postion the bbead at one intersection on the frame, Using one end of the wrapping wire, make at least two wraps around both frame segments. If possible, try to nestle the wrapping wire into the spaces in the ‘weaving on the frame to give the wire a 900d grip. Repeat with the other wire fendi, going in the other direction. Trim the wire tals flush, and flatten them. peat at the remaining tye intersec- tions, then gently finish shaping your cut. If desired, patinate your bracelet using liver of sufur according to the manufac turer's instructions. fl Lisa Claxton began ‘making beaded Jewelry in high ‘school, and she learned new skills and techniques when she worked at a bead store after college, She likes to think that wire is one of the few things in if that she can control. Lisa is full-time studio artist and jewelry instructor. To see more of her work, visit www.lisaclaxton.com, wow WiroworkMagcom 87Fibula pin eee eae Make a statement piece with heavy-gauge wire and an art-glass bead. ett)materials Fibula pin 314 x 4%, (3x 114mm) + Staring sve wir: round, doad!-soft 12-gauge (2.05 mm), 3 ft. (91.4 cm) -20-gauge (0.81 mm), 4 in. (10.2. cm) + Lempwotked ant bead: 49-60 rm (ink ube bead by Deanna Chase, ‘ewov.chaee-desigs.com) + 2ead caps «© Charm: Yin (19 mr) + 3 mm-sice-cameter um rng tools & supplies + Wirework toolbox. p 8 + Textures hammer stepbystep Shaping the pin (Cut ft. (01.4 om) of 12-gauge (2.05 mm) wire, and fle one end smooth, Referring to the Template, shape your wire, beginning with the spiral Basics, p. 8). ‘When you reach the col (Basics) at the top, wrap the wire four times around the widest oar of your roundnose pliers, then bend the wire to the let of the col Form a small loop, then continue following the template to complete the shield shape, Finishing 1 Cut the wire about %s in. (9.5 mm} past the end of the col, and use a chasing hammer to taper the end into a point. (Rotate the wire as you hammer to keep the wire round.) Use several grades of sandpaper to smooth the Point go it doesn't snag fabric, Lisa Liddy has been ‘making jewelry for several years. She parteulary enjoys designing jewelry that highlights art-glass beads. Lisa sells her Jewelry through her Etsy site, wwwjoolzbylisa.etsy.com. You can contact Lisa by e-mail at joolzbylisa@cox.net. Use a chasing hammer to flatten ‘everything but the coi, the top of the loop where the wire crosses itself, and the pin section that will go through fabric, Hammer the same parts again, this time using a textured harwmer. 2Cut 4 in. (10.2 cm) of 20-gauge (0.81 mm) wire, and make the first halt | \ 8 editor's note For a daintier version of this pin, reduce the template to 75% and use 14-gauge (1.63 mm) wire instead of 12-gauge (2.05 mm) wire, of @ wrapped loop (Basics). Attach it to the loop on the pin, and complete the ‘wraps. String a bead cap, an art bead, and a bead cap, and make another ‘wrapped loop, 3 Open a 3mm jump ting (Basics), attach a charm to the bottom wrapped loop, and close the jump ring. & —) S| ©) Z Xa wu WreworkMagcom 58GSG chain mail bracelet Short for “Great Southern Gathering,” an event put on by the Society for Creative Anachronism Calle aM tal orc MUU eRe gcr-lccre CCM) related to Persian sheet weaves. Although it looks complicated, it goes together quickly once you get the hang of the pattern. Og Ceastepbystep 1 Close two 6 mm jumo rings, and open 106 of them (Basics, p. 8). Slide the two ‘closed jump rings onto an open jump ring, and close it. Arrange them so the ‘wo closed rings overlap and the one you strung tham on goes through the ‘space created where they overlap, 2 Insert a twist tie up through ring 2 and down through ring 1, leaving a loop between the rings. The twist te will Keep the end rings in the correct position, and the loop wil identiy the front of your chain. Always work with the front ofthe chain facing you 3 Flip ing 3 to the tet, 4 Insert a ring (2) trough the center of rings 1 and 2, and close it 5 Insert a ring (6) through the space created where rings 8 and 4 overlap, and close it. Flip the new ring to the let 6 insert a rng (6) through the centers of rings 3 and 4, and close it Tilt the work so the previous two rings ‘added are positioned as in 7a, Side a ring through the space created where the previous two rings overlap, close it, and flpit to the left (roy Biincert a rng through the centers of the previous pair of rings (see the XS in and close it Repeat steps 5-8 until your chains the desired lengtn 9 insert a 4 mm jump ring through the ‘space created where an end pair of rings overtap, attach haif of the clasp, and close the ring. Repeat at the other fend of the chain, materials Bracolot sin. (18:1 em) + Azgentum stering sive jump rings: 46-gauge (1.29 mm) oe “Jump rng .265,"p. 11, for US. standard conversions of jump ngs) 108 6 mminside clameter 1D) 244mm 1D + Cts tools & supplies + Chain mal t09100x,p. 8 Diane Miller has been making and selling beaded Jewelty since 1999. Diane offers Argen- tum silver chain mail kits, supplies, and finished jewelry through her websites, www. mmidiwestmaille.com and wanw.dlanemillerdesigns.com, wwe WireworkMag.com 61 "AUN 800 9-1 SO}Showcase a resin pendant with spiral links and freeform wrapped loops. Use a torch to finish the ends of your wire. Jen Cushman 62 Wirework Spring 2011materials Necklace 21 in (63:3 em) Storing sive wire: ound, deod-sot 16-9899 (1.29 mm) Bin (208 or) + 18-geuge (1.02 mm) 6in. (15.2.0n) + 2ogauge (281 mm), 16 (40.6 om) + 22-gauge 0.64 mm, 20.608 er) * Colored erat wie: 24-9090 (0.51 mn) 27 in, 68.6 om) + Storing eke chan: Bin. 20:8 om) + 1020 mm top-ciled erystal drop + Be mmheshi spacers + 210mmbeads + 2emmbeads + B&mmbeads '* 13.6 mm inside-diameter (1D) jump tings #23 nm ID jum ngs Resin pendant 3 in. (78 mm) {optional * Storing siver open-backed bezel (Objects and Elements, ‘wwe objectsandelerents.com) ‘= 10E Fosin * Butterfly wing o pressed flower ' Vintage book paper or velum. tools & supplies Necklace + Wirework tookbox. BB + Haodtels butane or MAP gas torch + Fux + Pickle sokton (option) + Steel wool (00 te} + J0X Black patina solaton, pin ‘brush (optional) Pendant * Packing tape + Measuring'mixing curs, sti stick + Craft sticks + Tootpicks + Goo Gone (optionay stepbystep If you'd prefer to make this necklace with @ prefabricated pendant, skip “Resin pendant,” and start at “Bai Resin pendant Cut a piece of vintage book paper ar vellum to ft into a premade bezel, and 6) determine the arrangement of the ele- ‘ments you're going to layer in your bezel (Cut piece of packing tape slightly larger than the bezel, and press the ‘bezel fimiy onto the tape. This creates tight seal to ensure the resin doesn't leak under the bezel. Following the manufacturer's instvuo- tions, mix up #2 02. (14.8 ml) of ICE Resin, using measuring‘mixing cups and stir stick Allow the resin to rest for 5 rrinutes to cissipate any bubbles, Using a craft stick, drip enough resin into the bezel to create a thin layer. Place the paper or vellum into the bezel, and drip another layer of resin on top. When the paper is covered, place a bouttertly wing oF pressed flower into the bezel. Drip more resin into the bezel untit the resin reaches the too of the bezel If any air bubbles form in the resin, Carefully pop them with a toothpick. Set the piece aside to cry. Check the pendant a few times during the frst hour; if bubbles have formed, gently pop them. When the pendant is dry, remove the packing tane. If there's any tape resi: due, clean it off with Goo Gone. Bail 1 Fish out 6 in. (15.2 of 18-gauge {1.02 mm) wire, and make a spiral {Easics,p. 8) a each end, forning the spirals in the same direction, Form the spiral unl the ink is2in. (61 mong. 2 Using roundinose pliers, bend the link into a U (2a), then bend each end outward at a right angle (2b) Place the bail on a bench block or anwi, ancl hammer the wire with a chasing hammer to flatten and work-harden it 3.Out 15 in. (38.1 om) of 24-gauge (©.51 mm) craft wie, and wrap one end aroun the bail near one of the spirals Continue wrapping until you've wrapped past the bend. Extend the wraps so they capture both sides of the U. When the ‘wraps ate about % in. (6.5 mm) from the bottom of the U, pass the wire Up through the center of the wraps, and than wrap the top of the other side of the U. When the sides ere wrapped symmetrically, trim the wire tls. Spiral-link components 44 Fiush cut 4 in, (10.2 om) of 20-gauge (0.81 mm) wire, and make a spiral on ‘each end, 88 in step 1, stopping when the ink is 1% in, (8 mm} long. Using roundnose pliers, grasp the middle of the link, and bend the end so they : ‘cross and the spirals face away from each other. Use a chasing hammer to hammer the spirals and loop. 5 Cut @ in, (76 mm) of craft wire, and rap around the link where the ends cross. Continue wrapping about oné- third of the way up the loop. Trim the talls, and tuck them in, Repeat steps 4 and 5 three times to make a total of four spiral links. wors.WireworkMag.com 6310 » » 6 Open 2 6 mm jump ring (Basics), and slide it through the center of a spiral on ‘ne ink, then on a second link, Close the ring. Repeat with the other spirals, Repeat with the remaining pai of links, Bead units 7 Flush cut 4. (10.2 om) of 22-gauga {0.64 mm) wiv. Use a butane or MAAP 28 torch to ball up one end of the wire {600 "Baling the end of a wir," below) 8 Make a wrapped loop (Basics) at the balled end of the wire, but instead of trimming the wire, continue wrapping it ‘around the stem and previous wraps to make freeform organic wraps. {9 On the wir, string a 4 mm bead, ‘a 6 mm heshi spacer, a 10 mm bead, a6 mm spacer, and a 4 mm bead. Bal Up the other end ofthe wire (ea, anc balling the end of a wire ‘make another organic wrapped loop (8). Repeat steps 7-9 once, then repeat twice more, substituting 8 mm beads for the 10 mm beads, Clasp hook 10 Flush cut 4 in, (10.2 om) of 16-gauge (1.29 mm) wire, and make a spiral at tone end, stopping when there is about 2 in, (51 mm) of wite left. Ball up the other end of the wire, 11 Using a 10 mm mandrel, bend the ‘wire inio an 8, then use roundnose plers to bend the ballin the opposite Girection to create a hook. Harner the ‘clasp hook to harden and texture it Clasp loop 12 Fiush cut 4 in, (10.2 cm) of 16-gauge (1.29 mm) wire, and ball up one end. At the other end, make a plain loop Ignite your torch. Using tweezers or chainnose pliers, grasp your wire {and dip one end in flux. Lower the flux-coated tip of the wire into the point of the blue flame. The flame will cause the wire to melt and ball up. When the ball is the desired size, turn off the torch, and quench the wire in a small dish of cool water. Cleanse the wire in a hot pickle solution or remove the firestain with steel wool. 64 Wirework Spring 2011 (Basics). Right after the loop, bend wire around a 13 mm mandrel (128), = make organic wraps with the balled w= tend (128). Pendant dangle 13 Flush cut 4 in, (10.2 om) of 22-ga (0.64 mm) wire, and ball up one end. String a 10 x 20 mm top-chilled crysis pendant to the center, and bend the wire ends up so they cross above the crystal. With the plain wire end, mak the frst hatf of a wrapped loop. Assembly IF you made a resin pendant, make su the resin is completely dry. f any overflowed the bezel, sand it down w= sandpaper if desired. 14 Slide the wrapped loop of the pendant dangle into the bottom loop Of the pendant, wrap the piain wire ‘and around the stern ones, and tim. \Wrap the balled wire end around t stem and the previous wraps. 15 Open a 6 mm jump ring, attach 2 pendant and the bail, and close the =16 On each sive of the ball, use 6 mm jump rings to attach a 10 mm bead unit, ‘two spiral inks, and an 8 mm bead unit. 17 Cut in, (10.2 om) of chain, Using a 3 mm ump ring, attach one end of the cchain to the remaining loop of an 8 mm. bbead unit. Repeat on the other side. 18 Use a 6 mm jump ring to attach the clasp hook to the end of one chain. Repeat at the other end of the necklace to attach the clasp loop. If desired, paint a bit of JAX Black patina onto the siver with a paintbrush. Aer the siver turns black, buff the metal with steel wool. 1 Ei Jon Cushman is @ natural storyteller who stumbled upon mixed- 9 = =\,, necia jewelry 10 years ago. She is drawn to the imperfect, ao a the funky, the quirky, the artsy, and the authento, be it people, ‘objects, or art. Learn more al wwrjencushman.com. ee oh ss Chait wire Bre AoW evallebiel aye el sia peed eed Saen ce ASK FOR IT s efor ear one awww MreworkMag.com 68| Double-cross | Ch aIN cern | to make a dainty jewelry set. by John Fetvedt 66 Wiowork Spring 2017 “materials Anklet 9% in, (24.1 om); bracelet Tyla, (19.7 om) * Stering siver ump rags: (c2e ‘damp rng size" p. 11 for met conversions of imp rings) + 20-gauge (0.81 mm), ein, inside: clameter 10) (A ings): 282 for ane, 184 ox bracelet. $2 for earings = Te.gauge (1.02 mn), Yn. IO + fr anket or bracelet + 1B.gauge (1.02 mn, sin. 1D: 1 for xia or bracelet + Niobium jump rings (rings: 20-gavge (0.81 mm), %in. 1: a oc arket, 62 for bracelet, 42 earings + Lobster cla clasp for anit corbracelet + Ear wires for earings tools & supplies * Chain mal toolbox, p. 8 Anklet or bracelet 1 To make an anklet, open Basics, p. 8) 282 erin. inside-diameter (D) tering siver jump rings (A rings) and close 78 ¥en. niobium jump rings B rings). ‘To make a bracelet, open 184 ‘ern, stering siver jump rings (A rings) and close 62 %e-n, niobium jump rings (B rings). For ether piece, close a vin. storing siver jump ting, and attach a scrap piece of beading wire to it 2 Build a 2+2+2 chain, using two As, two Bs, and two As. Attach an A to the end pair of As. Add anA to double it. 4 Separate the pair of As just added, and attach an A end a pair of Bs to one of them, Double the A. 5 Sli an A through the remaining A from step 3 and the pair of Bs added in step 4. Double the new A ° 0 6 Attach an A to each end pair of As. 7 Attach an A and two Bs to the As added in step 6. Double the new A. @ Attach an A to the ond pair of Bs. Double the A. Repeat steps 3-8 unti the chain is the desired length. 9. Open a e-in, 18-gaugo (1.02 mm) jump ring, attach it to the end pair of As and a clasp, and close the ring, if desired, tumble-poiish the chain in a tumbler with stainless steel shot and bburnishing compound. John Fetvedt came to chain making from lapidary and silversmithing. Ho enjoys trans- forming simple wire into @ complex chain. When he's not making jewelry or teaching chain classes, he ‘enjoys spending time with his ‘grandchildren. To see more of John’s work, visit his website, worwbloux-de-terre.com. Earrings 10 Open 82 en, sterling siver jump rings (A rings) and close 12 in. riobium jump rings (B rings). Follow stops 2-8. Opon the loop of an ear wire, attach an end pair of As, and close the | loop. Repeat to make another earring. & | nw WireworkMag.com 67cabochon Use half-round wire to encase a stone cabochon, and embellish it with beads. sont ere by fina Miech | 68 Whework Sprig 2011materials Pendant approx. 12in. (25.5 x 61 mm) # Stering stereo » 16-gav0e (1.29 mr, halon, hala, 98. (01.4 cm) 24-gavge (05% rm), und hal ar, 10in. @5.4m) + cabochon: 1x2. 25.5 x51 mm) + 16-20 sesoriad 2-5 men beads tools & supplies + Wrenork toobox, p. 8 + Stepped roundnose pers with 5-dmmiaw stepbystep 4 Cut four 8-n, (20.3 om) pieces of 18-gauge (1.29 min) hal-ound wire ‘Align three of them withthe flat surfaces facing the same way. Position the remaining in. (20:3 cm) wire slightly off center on the group of wires. Leaving ain. 25 mm) tal, make three wraps around the group cf three wires. Trim the ends on the fat surface, and use chainnose pots to fatten them, 2 To begin the wire bezel, shape the bundle of wires around a cabochon, 3 Using the wie let over trom the frst Set of wraps, make another set of wraps (on one side ofthe bezel rame. Repeat nthe other sice 4 Use flatnose pliers to shape the wires to closaly fit the top of the stone. 5 Bond both sets of tals so they point straight up abave the cab and are parallel to each other. 6 Using flatnose pliers, grasp the tals, right above the cab, and bend each set of talls outward 90°. 7 .Cut 10 in, 25.4 om) of 24-cauge (0.51 mm) wrapping wire. Leaving a short tail and starting atthe top of the boezel-wiro “neck,” wrap the bezel-wire tals. Tim the short wrapping wire tal (Pot the working wire). 8 Identiy the front two bezelwire tails, bend them out toward the front Of the bezel, and trim each to about Vein. (13 mm). 9 Using 2 5-6 mm jaw ofa pair of stepped rouncinose ples, arasp each front tail and rol it up over the bezel neck to make a double ball. Adjust the loops as needed so they are identical 10 Using one of the remaining bazel- ‘wire tals, make a loose spiral Basics, . 8) to cover the bezel neck. Using the remaining three bezel-wire tis, make additional spirals as cesitod: ‘rim the tails, and tuck them into the work as desired.11. Using roundnase or chainnose pliers, make decorative bends at the bottom of the front two bezel wires. Make small bends at the top of the front bezel wite. 12 Place the cab facedown into the bezel, and make a few decorative bends in the wire on the back of the stone as needed to keep the stone in place. 13 Bring the wrapping wire from the back through an opening between two bezel wires. 14 String beads on the wie as desired, and angle it down toward the other side of the stone, 15 Wrap the wire around the bezel 'oring It to the back of the ston wrap a fow times around a wire on bback of the stone (rs), and tri Irina Miech owns Eclectica and The Bead Studio in Brookfield, Wis. I She is the author of several jewelry ‘making books, available from www KalmbachStore.com. Contact irina at eclectica-info@ -sbeglobal.net or visit the store's website, www.eclecticabeads.com ST Cae ay You have another opportunity to pyeach the Wirework audience with our fall issue! Deadline: June 22 Call: Dina Johnston 1-888-558-1544 x523 MInFLAM | eat: bienmaterials Bracelet 8 in. (20 cm) * Stering iver ump rings: (660 ump rng ses." p. 17, tor US. standard conversions of jump rings) 18-gavge (1.02 mm), 3 mm inside ameter (D), 192 + 14-gauge (1.63 mm), 5:5 mm 0, 2 ** Bronze jump rings: 17-gauge (148 mn), 875 mm D, 27 + Storing siver wir: 18-gauge (1,02 mm), 22 in, {65.9 om) + Bom camelan beads * Clasp tools & supplies * Chain mal toolbox. p. 8 + 3.5 mm manciektp pliers (onona) + Wire cuters ‘The Romanov chain is characterized by pairs of Byzantine segments, sometimes surTounding a central bead, connected tolinking rings. The usual method for incorporating beads involves making the Byzantine units fst, creating soparate bead links, and attaching them eter to the middle ings ofthe Byzantine ‘segments orto the linking rings. In this version, bead links with double loops form the central part of the Byzantine units, creating @ clean, sturdy connec- tion between the chain end the beads. stepbystep Bead links 1 Cut 2% in, (70 mm) of 18-gauge (1.02 mm) wire, Using 3.5 mm mandtrel- tip pliers oF roundnose pers, grasp one end of the wire and make two loops, uicing the tip ofthe wire toward the tip Of the pliers. (f you're using roundnose plors, mark the jaws where they're 8.5 mmin diameter, and grasp the wire at that point. 2 Sting a6 mm bead, and make two loops on the other end ofthe wir, turning them in the opposite direction Of the fst set. Ttim the excess wire at 45° angle. peat steps 1 and 2 to make a total of eight boad links. 72 Wirework Spring 2011 50 Byzantine units 3 Open 192 3.5 mm jump rings (asics, . 8). Sie an open jump ring onto one ‘end of a bead lnk, and close the ring, Repeat to attach a total of four 3.5 mm jmp rings to each end of te lnk 4 Attach two 3.5 mm jump rings to a pa of rings added in the previous step. Repeat to attach two jump rings to the remaining pairs of rings. 5 Flip an end pair of rings added in step 4 back (green) to expose the previous pair of rings (bive) (6). Spread the newly exposed rings, and insert a pin or awl between them and through the fipped pair. This creates the so ‘where you wil insert your next ums Side ating through the fipped then remove the pin or avd. the nevi ring, Adda second ring we Repest this step to add a pai ofr each remaining end ofthe bead i Repeat stops 3-5 with the rem: bead links, Assembly 6 Open 27 8.75 mm bronze jum: Sido one 8.75 mm ring through pairs of rings on each of two units ‘lose the ring. Repeat to attach al = Byzantine units, Attach one 8.75 ring at each end of the band as7 Working counterclockwise, side an mim ring through two pairs of 3.5 mm rings on tho lft, thon slide it under the previously added 8.75 mm “ng, through two pairs of 8.5 mm rings Cn the right, and up through the 8.75 mm ring, Close the ring. Repeat along the band 8 Repeat step 7, adding a third ring to ‘complete each tlower formation. If you aren't able to get the third ring in place, you may stop with only two, 9 Open a 5.5 mm jump ring, and close ‘a second §.5 mm ring. Slide the closed 5.5 mm ring and an end! flower into the ‘open 5.5 mm ring, and close it. ‘Open the loop of a clasp, attach it to the other end flower, and close it. sequris EG 1096 #8 2-9 FUP 1 SO Scott David Plumleo has been making ‘chain jewelry for ‘more than 10 years. He recently wrote his third book, Chain and Bead ho, Jewelry: Geometric ‘Connections. For more infor- ‘mation, visit his website, www, America’s Favorite Beading and 4 Jewelry Supply Company™ : Request your Free full color 448 page © catalog of HOT jewelry-making supplies Call 1.800.355.2137 or go online www.firemountaingems.com \\ \ ) j Liz Reed, Australia Necklace Category 2010 Metal Clay and Wirework Jewelry-Making Contest - @ You supply” : the cesar we supply