Bouldering and Rock Climbing

The Dos and Donts of

outdoor and indoor
climbing

Photo: Bishop, CA

Topics to be discussed
Definitions of the sport

General overview
Terminology
Rational for participating
Equipment needed
Climbing variations
Rating system (difficulty)
Bouldering rating examples

Rock climbing rating system

Risk management
Safety concerns
Climbing etiquette
Equipment strength
Commands
Equipment demonstrations

Bouldering definition
A form of rock climbing that is performed without the use of ropes or
harnesses. While it can be done without any equipment whatsoever,
most climbers use climbing shoes to help secure footholds, chalk to
keep their hands dry, and bouldering mats to prevent injuries from
falls.
- Wikipedia

Rock climbing definition

An indoor and outdoor recreational activity in which people use
specific equipment to safely ascend a rock wall.

Indoor Climbing

Outdoor climbing

Terminology
Climber: Person who is ascending/descending a route.
Belayer: The person who is belaying the climber (allowing the
climber to safely ascend/descend the route.
Protection: Pieces of equipment that the climber threads the
climbing rope through, as theyre climbing.
Anchor: The object that anchors a climber to a route via the rope,
always found at the top of a climbing route.
Rappelling: A technique where the climber lowers themselves with
a belay/rappel device.

Why would you go climbing?

For fun/entertainment
To be more active

To challenge yourself
To learn a new recreational activity
Stress relief
To spend time with friends/family

What are the benefits?

Developed climbing techniques
Improved overall strength and endurance
Sense of accomplishment

Weight management
Stress relief
Challenge

What you need to get started

$45

$200

$40

$10

$50

$150

$70 x 2

$15

 Climbing helmet: $45

Harness: $50
Climbing shoes: $40
Not using the proper safety equipment while climbing: lifeless

Top Roping

Sport climbing

Traditional climbing

Bouldering

/
v

BOULDERING
SHOULD
ALWAYS BE
DONE AT
HEIGHTS OF 14
FEET OR LESS!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bqow3sPJ0J0

V0 difficulty

V19 difficulty

Yosemite Decimal System

Class 1: Relatively flat ground.
Class 2: Standard hiking trail. May require minimal hand use.
Class 3: Scrambling with increased exposure. Handholds are necessary. Falls
could easily be fatal.
Class 4: Simple climbing, with exposure. A rope required. Falls may well be
fatal.
Class 5: Roped and un-roped rock climbing. Belaying, and other protection
hardware is used for safety. Un-roped falls can result in severe injury or
death.
Class 6: Is considered Aid climbing. Equipment is used for more than just
safety.

Risk Management
Always know who you are climbing with, YOU HAVE TO
TRUST YOUR BELAYER
Check and inspect ALL climbing equipment to ensure it is
not damaged, before you start climbing
Know exactly WHERE you will be climbing and know what
the WEATHER will be

Risk Management Scenarios

Belayers being pulled off the ground when a climber falls
Solution: Use an anchor to secure the belayer to the ground

Forgetting to lock a carabiner, double-back the harness, or properly tie a knot

Solution: Use a mental checklist, take the time to double check everything

Lowering errors
Solution: Improve communication techniques

Belaying errors
Solution: Practice with your belayer, use a backup belayer if needed

Getting lost/stranded
Solution: Know where you are going, bring maps/know how to use them, know what the
weather will be like

43% of all climbing victims

were stranded or lost
42% of climbing victims were
not using a rope while
climbing

Climbing etiquette
Indoor

Outdoor

Do not hog any roped routes or

bouldering routes, share

Do not hog any climbing routes

Do not be louder than you need

to be
Do not walk between the belayer
and the wall
Know proper belaying
techniques to avoid injuring the
person you are belaying

Do not block trails or pathways

Use appropriate climbing chalk
for the rocks you are climbing
on
Do not alter a climbing route by
removing/adding bolts

Equipment strength
Climbing harness
Leg loops: 4100 lbs.
Belay loop: 6000 lbs.

Carabineers
24kN vertical (5400 lbs.)
8kN lateral (1800 lbs.)

Quick draws
22kN (4950 lbs.)

Ropes
Not rated in kN, rated by amount
of hard falls it can take

Commands
Climber: On belay?
Climber: Climbing

Belayer: Belay on
Belayer: Climb on

Climber:
Climber:
Climber:
Climber:
Climber:
Climber:

Belayer:
Belayer:
Belayer:
Belayer:
Belayer:
Belayer:

Up Rope
Take
Slack
Watch me
Lower
Off belay

(no response)
(no response)
(no response)
I got you
Lowering
Belay off

Climb at your own risk

There is inherent danger in rock climbing and bouldering.
The decision to rock climb should ALWAYS be your decision

References
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bouldering
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/503418064571654236/

Kidd, T. W., & Hazelrings, J. (Eds.). (2009). Rock climbing: Outdoor

Adventures. Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics.
http://static1.squarespace.com/static/552e8f43e4b07f0b3920027b/t
/5550dbc0e4b0411fd0273efd/1431362496406/2012_WEMJ_RMRG_
Rock_Climb_Accidents.pdf