INTRO.

Bearded dragons are one of the most popular pet reptiles- lively and intelligent
with a fondness for human interaction and soft, pettable bodies. Unfortunately, as with
many other exotic pets, reliable care information can be hard to find and many beardies
end up suffering for it. Information relayed here comes from a blend of many different
sources, some of which didnt always agree with each other. I relied on advice from
longtime beardie owners as often as possible and double-checked all guidelines that
ultimately made it into this paper. Regularly consult with an experienced reptile vet in
order to keep your dragon in top health and happiness.

PART ONE: INTERIOR DESIGN.

Appropriately sized tank. 20 gallons for baby beardies, 40 gallons for early
adults (under 16 inches), 75 gallons for 16-20 inch adults, and 120 gallons for 20+ inch
adults. Too small a tank can prevent your dragon from getting enough exercise, and too
large a tank can prevent your dragon from catching its live food properly.
Mesh tank cover. Solid glass or plastic tank covers can cause a habitat to
quickly overheat and prevent essential UV rays from reaching your dragon.
Basking bulb. Basking is physically and mentally comforting to all beardies.
UVA/UVB tube bulb. This bulb needs to span as much of the tanks length as it
can. Many serious beardie ailments stem from lack of UVA/UVB.
Light timer. Beardies need the lights on for 12-14 hours a day during the
warmer months and for 10-12 hours a day during the winter. If you opt to feed your
dragon in the morning, set the lights to go on at least an hour before feeding.
Two thermometers. The basking end of your dragon's enclosure needs to be
95-110 degrees Fahrenheit, while the cool end needs to be around 85 degrees.
Under-tank heater. This is only necessary if it gets below 70 degrees at nightleaving your dragons lamps on for night heat can prevent it from getting any sleep. DO
NOT opt for a heat rock instead, as beardies have trouble detecting heat with their
stomachs and can end up with severe burns.
Humidity gauge. An overly humid environment can lead to your dragon
developing a respiratory infection.
Basking platform. This can be a wide branch, a smooth rock or any number of
products offered in pet stores- as long as it allows enough space for your dragon to
spread out comfortably and allows it to get within 6-8 inches of its basking bulb.
Reptile hide. Beardies need somewhere to go when they are feeling
overwhelmed or sleepy- the hide can also double as a basking platform if it has a nice
wide top.

Branches. Most beardies enjoy climbing. Natural and synthetic branches are
sold in many pet stores, but branches gathered in nature can also be used- so long as
they are properly disinfected beforehand.
Substrate. This is whatever covers the floor of your dragons habitat. There are
a few options, each with its own distinct advantages and disadvantages.
Type of Substrate

Pros

Cons

Reptile carpet

Simple to install and

clean, aesthetically
pleasing

Risk of claw snags

(select one with the
tightest weave
possible)

Newspaper

Dirt cheap, enables

digging

Can retain humidity

and foster mold if
improperly cleaned

Ceramic tiles

Simple to clean,
virtually beardie-proof

Difficult to resize, add

substantially to
habitats weight

Do not use sand or wood chips- both pose a very high risk of gut impaction and
some wood chips give off fumes that are toxic to beardies. Calcium sand should also
be avoided, as even though its marketed as being digestible and less dangerous than
regular sand, its in fact entirely indigestible and more prone to clumping up, creating
larger impactions.
Colorful background. A background can make the environment a little more
interesting for your beardie and guard it against seeing its reflection in the glass and
injuring itself trying to attack it.
Reptile hammock. Look for one with a nice soft interior and suction cups on
the corners.
Shallow water dish. Even though most bearded dragons will not drink from a
water dish, no animal should be left without water. Go with a shallow dish to prevent too
great of a rise in humidity.
Mist bottle. Most beardies prefer to get their water through frequent mists over
their bodies. Misting can also assist with shedding.
Eyedropper. Some beardies also like to drink water dripped on their nose- this
can also help young or neglected beardies bond with their new human parents.
Beardie bath. This could be a sizeable Tupperware, a specially made bath, or
an actual bathtub- although, be aware that beardies are almost guaranteed to eliminate
in their bath water, so a bathtub that any humans are planning on using isnt ideal. Your
dragon needs at least three or four baths a week and even more if its young, shedding,
or having health problems.

Transport container. This should be a secure, comfortable container to safely

hold your beardie while you clean its habitat or en route to the vet. Include at least a
hideaway and something from its normal habitat to help your dragon feel more
comfortable.
Dig box. 6-8 inches deep, filled with damp soil that is changed periodicallybeardies often enjoy digging in order to cool off or make a comfortable place to hang
out. Additionally, if you end up with a female, she needs to have a place she feels safe
depositing her eggs so she doesn't end up egg bound.
OPTIONAL:
Harness and leash. A walk outdoors can allow your beardie to soak up the
sunshine and get a little exercise. Make sure to choose one made especially for
bearded dragons.
Large ball. Some beardies enjoy pushing a ball around with their noses- be sure
to choose one that is too large to fit in your dragons mouth to eliminate risk of choking
or gut impaction.
Fluorescent light mount. If you are especially concerned about your dragon
getting enough UVA/UVB, consider mounting its tube bulb inside the enclosure- just
make sure it's high up enough that it can't accidentally be touched.

PART TWO: GROCERY SHOPPING.

Bearded dragons require both live insects and fresh vegetable and fruit salad in
order to stay healthy. Differing proportions are needed as a dragon grows older- the
feeding schedule below is intended only as a guideline and the exact feeding schedule
varies with the dragon. In addition, beardies need to be fed a minimum of twice a daywhile this works just fine with older adults, young beardies and especially babies will
want to eat up to five or six times a day.
Age of dragon
0-3 months
3-6 months
6-8 months
8-12 months
12-18 months
18 months

Live food offered

7 days a week
6 days a week
5 days a week
4 days a week
3 days a week
2-3 days a week

Vegetable offered
1-2 days a week
2-3 days a week
3-4 days a week
4-5 days a week
5-6 days a week
6-7 days a week

SUBPART ONE: LIVE FOOD.

Crickets, roaches, and hornworms can all be used as staple insects. Never
feed an insect that is wider than the space between your dragon's eyes- for this reason,
crickets are are often the insect of choice for young or smaller beardies, as they come in
a range of sizes. Feed as many as your beardie will eat in a ten to fifteen minute time
period, and remove any uneaten bugs afterwards.

All three options have distinct pros and cons. Crickets are the cheapest option
by far, but they're often smelly and noisy- plus, if they escape, consider them gone
forever. Roaches are of middling cost and it's easy to raise a colony, but they're
commonly regarded as pests and it can be hard to keep them with other people in the
house. Dubia roaches, the most common option for roaches, are also illegal in Florida
and Canada. Hornworms are the most expensive and need specialized diets, but only a
few are needed for each serving and they pose the smallest risk of escape and mess.
Mealworms are easy to find, cheap, and high in protein, making them the
favorite of many a reptile owner. However, chitin- the substance that makes up the
majority of their exoskeletons- is virtually indigestible. If you end up with a pet store
beardie that's hooked on mealworms, they can be given as an occasional treat but
should eventually be phased out for another staple.
Waxworms and silkworms can also be given as treats- the former being high in
fat and the latter being expensive to keep for extended periods of time (eating only
mulberry leaves).
SUBPART TWO: SALAD.
While live food provides most of a bearded dragon's dietary needs, salad is still
required to ensure top health. Unlike live food, salad can be prepared in the morning
and taken out at night, allowing your pet to eat throughout the day as needed. All fruits
and vegetables should be finely chopped to avoid risk of impaction.
Staple vegetables and fruits should make up the largest portion of the saladabout 75% green vegetables and 15% others. These can include:

Dandelion
greens

Endive

Snap peas

Mustard greens

Butternut
squash

Sweet potato

Papaya

Turnip greens

Acorn squash

Mango

Collards

Green beans

Prickly pear

Watercress

Parsnips

Escarole

Okra

Occasional vegetables and fruits should make up only a small portion of the
salad.

Carrots

Pumpkin

Apples

Asparagus

Zucchini

Strawberries

Beets

Broccoli

Blueberries

Bell peppers

Cauliflower

Raspberries

Celery stalks

Green peas

Blackberries

Banana

Cantaloupe

Peaches

Kiwi

Grapes

Pears

Watermelon

Honeydew
melon

Vegetables and fruits to avoid include:

Spinach

Lettuce

Avocados

Beet greens

Tomatoes

Rhubarb

SUBPART THREE: SUPPLEMENTS.

Phosphorus-free calcium supplements should be added to all food (insect and
plant) just before feeding. Some calcium supplements also contain vitamin D3- with
these, only give the amount recommended on the package in order to prevent
overdose. If you would also like to provide a multivitamin, look for one containing only
natural vitamin A.

PART THREE: DOCTORS OFFICE.

Choose a vet that is not only certified to work with reptiles, but has also had
sufficient experience doing so. Consider pet insurance- emergency situations can add
up quickly, and many plans also cover regular exams.
SUBPART ONE: NORMAL HEALTH.
Brumation is a naturally occurring hibernation cycle that manifests differently for
different beardies. Some fall fast asleep for months, others sleep for only part of the
day, and others barely enter a cycle at all. Especially with new dragons that you havent
yet observed the brumation patterns of, keep the light timer at its normal setting and
provide a bit of fresh food each day in case your dragon decides to get up for a snack or
to bask. Dont worry about malnourishment if it doesnt eat, though- perfectly healthy
beardies wont lose much weight or any at all during brumation, and massive weight
loss during this cycle is a sign of separate health issues.
Shedding is a natural process for all reptiles! Right before shedding, your
dragons color will dull (especially noticeable in vibrantly colored varieties) and its eyes
will appear to puff out. Baby beardies shed several times in their first year to
accommodate for their growing bodies, while some adults only shed once a year.
Frequent misting and bathing helps the shedding process along, but dont be tempted to
pull off the old skin unless it is literally falling off your dragon as it walks- pulling off old
skin too early can damage the fragile new skin underneath. Be especially watchful for
skin stuck on the toes and the tip of the tail, as pieces are prone to stick around in these
areas and can restrict blood flow. Some beardies will also eat their old skin- an instinct
developed by wild beardies to hide any trace of their existence from predators. Dont

worry if your dragon does eat a little, but do remove old skin from the environment as
often as possible.
SUBPART TWO: ABNORMAL HEALTH.
Below are the most common bearded dragon ailments. Always keep the
numbers for your dragon's regular and emergency vets on hand.
Gut impaction. Your dragon goes without eliminating for several days. Give it a
warm bath and a gentle stomach massage- if it still doesnt successfully eliminate,
contact a vet.
Diarrhea. Loose, watery stool- an isolated case could be caused by stress, a
change in diet, or a bit of bad food. Continued cases or signs of parasites should be
dealt with by a vet.
Dehydration. Your dragons eyes look sunken, its appetite is decreased, its skin
is wrinkled and holds its shape when pinched, and/or its activity increases significantly
after drinking. Encourage your dragon to drink by dripping water on its nose or by
misting more frequently- some owners also recommend a 1:1 solution of water and a
sports drink such as Powerade.
Droopy eyes. These can be a symptom of kidney issues, parasites, or an
infection and are reason enough to contact a vet.
Swollen eyes. Inside of a shedding cycle these are no cause for worry, as
beardies often bulge out their eyes in order to loosen the skin in the surrounding area.
A dragon outside of a shedding cycle may also bulge their eyes out for a second to
yawn. However, extended bulging outside of a cycle can indicate parasites, vitamin A
overdose, or an eye infection.
Underweight. Your dragons spine, ribs, and/or hip bones are visible, it has very
little or no fat deposits behind its eyes, and/or the base of its tail is very thin. The
agreed-upon most effective method for getting a dangerously underweight dragon to
beef up is to increase its live food intake to once or even twice a day for a couple of
weeks. Gut-loaded silkworms and roaches are also particularly high in protein. Resist
the temptation to regularly provide waxworms or other live food high in fat- these should
only be given as treats and while they will make your dragon bigger, they arent likely to
make it any healthier.
Overweight. Your dragons belly drags as it walks, its limbs and/or the base of
its tail are puffy-fat, and/or its general activity level decreases. Choose live foods high
in protein rather than in fat and provide plenty of opportunities for exercise (especially in
the form of swimming) to prevent obesity in the first place. Make a special effort to
encourage an overweight dragon to exercise and eat its greens- some vets may also be
able to prescribe supplements to boost its metabolism. Never put your dragon on a
crash diet or restrict its access to food, as this puts it at risk for further, more severe
health problems.
Paralysis. Your dragon stops moving altogether out of nowhere and/or stops
responding to pressure on its legs and body. Cut a hole in a towel to allow its belly to

hang down and contact a vet for emergency care. Paralysis occurs when a beardie
takes in a piece of food that is too large and it puts pressure on the spinal cord during
the digestion process- as such, prevention is the best medicine and the general rule of
thumb is to avoid any piece of food wider than the space between your dragons eyes.
Vitamin A overdose. Your dragons eyes, throat, and body swell and its general
activity level decreases. Beardies can only overdose on artificial vitamin A- look for
supplements that include natural vitamin A and regularly supply fresh food that already
contains vitamin A.
Vitamin D overdose. Your dragons bottom jaw swells, its muscles spasm or
shake, its general activity level decreases, and/or its movements are jerky. Contact a
vet for emergency care. Only give the recommended dose of calcium supplements
containing vitamin D3, and consider calcium-only supplements if your dragon has
regular access to natural sunlight.
Vitamin B1 deficiency. Your dragons muscles tremor and spasm. Fresh
greens are the most reliable source of vitamin B1- frozen vegetables quickly lose their
vitamin content and should be passed up as often as possible in favor of fresh ones.
Mites and parasites. Your dragons eyes and ears are irritated and/or its eyes
are droopy or swollen. Provide a stool sample to a vet.
Metabolic bone disease. Your dragons back, legs, and tail are bumpy, its
muscles spasm, its bottom jaw is swollen, and/or its movements are jerky. Contact a
vet for treatment. MBD is the most common affliction of domesticated bearded
dragons- and again, prevention is the best medicine. Provide proper calcium
supplements, plenty of UVB light, a balanced diet, and a nice warm environment.
Mouth rot. Your dragon has a yellow-white substance surrounding and in its
mouth. Contact a vet- prolonged cases can cause permanent damage to the lower jaw.
Respiratory infection. Your dragon constantly holds its mouth open, has visible
difficulty breathing, constantly puffs out its body and throat, makes a gurgling sound,
and/or produces mucus in and around its mouth and nostrils. Contact a vet and provide
a properly heated, low-humidity habitat to prevent infection in the first place.
Egg binding. Female bearded dragons are able to develop and lay eggs even
without the presence of a mate. A beardie carrying eggs will become more active and
curious, searching for a suitable place to lay. One can also gently feel for tiny bumps of
eggs around the abdomen. A beardie preparing to lay will stop eating for up to a couple
of days, but will stay active- if your dragon refrains from eating for longer or becomes
inactive at any point while carrying eggs, she may be egg bound (unable to lay). Lack
of calcium in the diet, improper temperatures, and lack of a dig box are the most
common contributors to egg binding, although weight, exercise, and age can all also
contribute. Give her a warm bath to stimulate laying- if she remains bound, contact a
vet for hormones or surgical intervention.

Various signs of discomfort or illness include a general lack of energy, jerky

movement, limping, swollen body parts, uncharacteristic aggressiveness, sitting
hunched over, reluctance to lie down, and/or reluctance to eat.

PART FOUR: WHY DOES HE DO THAT?

Bearded dragons have their own unique language, and understanding the
behaviors your pet displays is essential to making sure it is as comfortable as possible.
Arm waving. Slowly waving one arm in a circular motion is a sign of submission
or fear.
Basking. Bearded dragons spend much of their time resting underneath their
basking bulbs- being unable to generate their own body heat, this is essential to
keeping them in good health.
Bearding. The area of loose skin underneath a bearded dragon's chin is
commonly called their beard- after all, you can't have a bearded dragon without a
beard! They are able to darken and puff out their beard at will- while this is usually done
in response to an aggressor (especially if the darkened area spreads down to their
chest and arms), it is sometimes done in order to clear their throats or to indicate
willingness to mate.
Biting. Biting is an obvious sign of aggression or fear, only utilized as a last
resort by a very upset dragon.
Glass surfing. While a beardie on its hind legs running back and forth along the
sides of its enclosure can look cute, it's actually a sign of stress or boredom. A surfing
beardie may be suffering in a poorly regulated environment, stressed by something
outside their enclosure, or may just want to be taken out to play.
Head bobbing. Bobbing the head is a way for beardies to establish a social
hierarchy- fast bobbing accompanied by a puffed beard is a display of dominance, while
slow bobbing with a flat body is a display of submission.
Inflating body. A dragon puffing out its entire body is one that wants to be left
alone.
Flattening body. A pancaking dragon is one that is cold and is trying to
increase its surface area in order to absorb more heat.
Noises. Bearded dragons are usually silent, but they can hiss as a sign of
extreme aggression and sometimes hiss and gurgle together when suffering from a
respiratory infection.
Gaping mouth. Beardies will sit with their mouths wide open in order to regulate
internal temperature, and this is a perfectly normal behavior while basking. However,
gaping outside of their basking area can indicate a respiratory infection.

Licking. Beardies will lick anything new they encounter, in order to check if it's
edible and to reinforce memories of their location and environment.
Tail twitching. This is a behavior most commonly displayed by juvenile
dragons- a beardie with a raised, twitching tail is either alert to prey or stressed out.

PART FIVE: FASHION.

There are three categories of varieties of beardie appearances: morphs, colors,
and patterns. The morph type defines the body type of your dragon, while colors and
patterns can occur in any combination and on most morph types.
SUBPART ONE: MORPH TYPES.
Classic beardies are the closest to those found in the wild. With a back, head,
and sides full of spikes, the classic morph is the most common in pet stores and can
often be found for the least amount of money.
Leatherback beardies have smooth, spikeless backs, and often also have
decreased amounts of spikes on their sides and heads. Breeders or die-hard beardie
fans might insist on the minute differences between an Italian Leatherback and an
American Smoothie, but for the average pet owner the differences are barely there.
Translucent beardies are exactly what they sound like-against a bright light, one
can see right through smaller translucents.
Dunner beardies, a morph developed by Kevin Dunn, have a distinct and unique
striped pattern down their tails, while the rest of their body is covered in scales with little
conformity of pattern or direction.
Hypomelanistic beardies are unable to transport melanin, the pigment
responsible for dark colors and patterns, and as a result end up with pastel colors and
sometimes even clear nails.
Silkbacks are entirely scaleless, resulting in a silky smooth dragon with the most
vibrant colors possible. Be prepared to pay top dollar for these beautiful beardies.
German giants often appear to be classic beardies when they are young- fully
grown, however, some have reportedly reached 28 inches in length. Unfortunately, due
to a wealth of crossbreeding, its become increasingly hard to find a pure German giant
and many marketed as such possess only a small portion of the German giant genome.
Witblit beardies are still relatively new but just as stunning, completely
patternless and coming in a variety of muted colors.
Leucistic beardies are entirely free of pigment, showing only the true natural
color of a dragons skin. Beware of white dragons being marketed as leucistic in order
to up the price- true leucistic beardies have entirely clear nails and even a single
colored nail can indicate a fake.

Zero beardies, entirely colorless and patternless, can be hard to tell apart from
leucistic and witblit beardies. Zeros have no colors nor patterns, while leucistics have
no color but can develop patterns, and witblits can have muted colors but no patterns.
Paradox beardies just do their own thing. With translucent scales and no one
distinctive combination of patterns and colors, theyre as intriguing as they are unique.
SUBPART TWO: COLORS.
Remember that the color of your dragon will most likely change over time-baby
beardies start out with a white underbelly and develop a more uniform color as they
mature. Adults are often able to change up the shade of their mature color, too.
Brown or sand is the color beardies are in nature, and the color classic morphs
are most commonly found in.
Red beardies are the most popular among collectors and can range from a bright
fire-engine red to a dark maroon to almost a pink.
Yellow beardies also vary in shade- from the common lemon-yellow citrus to a
soft pastel yellow.
Orange beardies increase in value if their color stays bright even in dull
surroundings- no matter if they turn out bright traffic-cone orange or a more dusky
shade.
White beardies are often marketed as pigment-free morphs- which is a shame,
because they're perfectly fine just the way they are!
Black beardies are still extremely rare- only a couple have ever been
successfully bred.
Purple, blue, and green beardies havent been reliably bred yet- ones that do
turn out these colors often fade over time and develop a myriad of health problems.
Maybe someday.

PART SIX: MISCELLANEOUS.

Brands. ZooMed is the trusted brand for all beardie-specific products, especially
basking and UVA/UVB bulbs. For supplements, RepCal Calcium or Herptivite
Multivitamin are the recommended way to go.
Bathtime. Prepare a bath of lukewarm water about shoulder-height on your
dragon. If you'd like to make the water deeper in order to encourage swimming, include
a clean platform for your beardie to rest in between laps.
Clothes. Clothes won't keep your beardie any warmer, as they cannot produce
their own body heat. Still, if you'd like to dress up your dragon for a photoshoot or just
to watch it run around in a little Santa suit, choose clothes specially made for bearded
dragons that don't restrict its movement and remove them at the first sign of discomfort.

Sexing. The differences between male and female baby beardies are very
slight, so wait until it's fully grown to determine the sex. Hold a flashlight or other bright
light to the base of your dragon's tail and check underneath- a dark line in the center
indicates a female, while a dark line on each side indicates a male.

PART SEVEN: SOURCES / FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT:

The Bearded Dragon: http://www.thebeardeddragon.org/
Bearded Dragon Care 101: http://www.beardeddragoncare101.com/
PogoPogona: http://pogopogona.com/
South Texas Dragons: https://www.southtexasdragons.com/
Bearded Dragon Lady: http://www.beardeddragonlady.com/
TC Reptiles: http://www.tcreptiles.co.uk/
Care of Bearded Dragons: http://beardeddragoncaresheet.weebly.com/