PATTERN DRAFTING CHILDREN'S eo DESIGN M-ROUHRPATTERN DRAFTING CHILDREN’S GARMENT DESIGN CONTENTS » v SUPPLEMENTARY SECTION ‘SLACKS ORAFTING - for sizes 4 to 12. Body neasurenent chart ‘Teen Sizes 10 to 16 Spay measurement chart on inside back cover. sizes a to.6 and on page VII. sw rizee ~ shifting method ~ Page VT Grading chi Idee CM a PS ey eet ee a eee $400 Salt sett Sreiiete now Suit draft, nor and BID ~ Page 1¥- FoR OTHER FUNDAWENTAL PATTERN ORAFTI Goprrigee io8i by MBO TPOBLISHED BY M. ROMR,——e9 Le : lacks Gradil |: Slacks Grading-Page unr. A 2 10.16Fe ee ee re ee ee Oey re eRe ae ek ee aT Se eee ey eee ern HON TO DRAFT SLACKS PATTERN FOR GIRLS! SIZES 4 TO 12 1 sie [4 [6 [a [o [ae A to B24 174| 28-374) 30-174] 38-174 [36-174 Equals side length. Ato Cll 4-1/2] 5 | 5-1/2] 6-3/4] 6 equals waist to hip. Cool 7 [7-7 8 | e-t/2| 9 [equals 1/4 of hip measure plus 1 for ease,| Cto€| 7 [7-1/2] 8 | @-i/2| 9 equals sane length as C to D. ‘Ato Fl 9 | 9-3/s]10-172|10-7/8|11-174] equals croten depth (1* ease Included) FtoG| 7 [7r-1/e] 8 | @1/2| 9 [equals hip tine C to D, F Tife| 8 | 8-1/2{ 9 [Equals hip Tine C to €- a 3-3/4] 9-1/2|10-174]10-5/8] 11 [equals A to F (crotch depth), Tess 1/4", H To=1/a|_ 11 |it=3/a] 2-1/8 [12-172 [equals G to J, plus (=1/2", K a4] 778 ‘Then connect fron to A to J. bi 4 [a i7a Equals 1/2 of F to H on crotch 11ne. M 21/6 Equals 1/2 ot to W;thes connect W to-L.] G 2 [1/8 Equals Tine M fo Ne G [21-374 [23-3/8 Sane Tength_as Tine F to 6. N to Qf i5-1/4] 19 fet-a/a]2a-a/8 [Sane_Tengthas line G to P. Square at N, Pte 0 [Connect for botton of slacks. 1 v wovpsa [78 |7e | 1 | ¥ ; reamhas feral eae sar a 3 peaaliea eevee Veet ros nearer gay reali Te eer ence eat GloraiT, leurved center front line through V. aa [ae [78] | Draw diagonal lines then draw curved center back line theough We nz, Ter] © [ewe [eel esa| 7 [Equals 1/4 gf qaist measure, plus allow Jance fora 3/4" pleat. Ttoz |[e-172 [6-778 |7-178 | 7-578 | 6 Equals. 174 of waist measure, plus allow-| lance for. a dart I-I/2" wide for size | (as"shown by dotted lines" in diagram 1¥) wide"'finiahed "and the length of walat fReasure plus $/4* extension for left side Opening. BODY MEASUREMENTS OF WAIST AND HIP. size] 4 [6 [68 [0 | @ waist 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25) FHP 20 | 26 | as | 90 | 32 ; i 5 — [with 17a" grade for each size: i Shape side seana fron Y and Z to iplin For waistband, make a double band |-1/4' Reduce 1/2" at each side of R for size 8 (as""shown by dottes lines), with 1/16" Grade for each sizes lv Locate, the 3/4" pleat in center.of front For crease lines in front and back,divice ‘the knee and bottom lines in half; Graw crease lines from Botton to hip! Allow seans and make core > 2 2 a a a a a = a = = 2 = = = = 2 2 a a 2 a 2 = 2 2 = a 2 3 a a 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 a 2 2 2 SLACKS GRADING, GIRLS SIZES (Shifting method of == size 8 to 10) How To GRADE THE FRONT 1. CROTCH TO WAISTLINE AT SIDE _ Bs Grea inimnans ee, Sui pattermug 3/8! and across I/8¥ithen trace en Shift pattern out 1/2" and tease fron 8 to C. Trace bleat ines before ahl{ting pattern out 1/8" ana tracing from to D. Trace corner atD. TTT, CROTCH DEPTH GRADE = x SHILt pattern down 2/8% ang out 1/8" before tracing” from Oto €; then shift pattern out HBF as trace tron Ete" ee * Trace Eomner at. Shift pattern down 1-5/8" and in 1/8* before tracing from F to'G: then trace corner at G. “¥. LOWER EOGE GRADE Ta Ghetcoatinen in or Wasa ton 6. te then connect fron Hi to A'to complete the Sub The above diagram shows how auch front pattern fné bean graded” in wiath and Tength fron size to ee splatnang from center back tocenter front. "Gav puide {ine at croten tevel ana mark point A. suit 1 Shift pattern” in 3/8" and trace from H to then connect from J to Ato complete ‘he’ ‘The above diagram, shows howmuch back of slacks has been graded fron size B to ur HOW TO GRADE THE BACK 1. CROTCH TO WAISTLINE Ae : 3/8 WSS Shi pattern out i ach tron 8 to, Ti too D toe, "trae ade as, you shift. Stace cornér ate, se dart ee 7a tanger). LLM ShIFE pattern down 9/8",and trace from Et fshift patter 0 Fs nt 1/8" and trace rom A IE Gm GA 2 Shit pattern down 1-5/6" and in 1/8 before Eracing’ from G to. then trace corner at He a BOGE GRADE,- 2 2 2 2 a a a ) a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a 2 a a a a a a a a a a DRAFTS OF SNOW SUIT (PANTS AND 818) ee 3 Sova HIND DRAFT OF 616 [and 11 Using the drese foundation to waistline oF front dart to form straight center front line II andy nt as illustrated, haying the depth of neck as for size 6, with’ I/g grade for each size. Mark position for puttonholes for left side closing. close uo Trace back foundation to waistline only. 1" Draft bib as shown by dotted Iines,making depth of neck a5 geseribed for fronts sas For l@ft gide closing,add 1-1/2" position for buttons. 15 indicated; then mark DRAFT OF TROUSERS foundation, trace front line straight across as wir Using the hip parts of the dre fang’ ack sections,naving the fi Inaicates. Draft pants as folloy Gar ope wie Tong pan Ww ment features. an ning. at tet side, ih knitted cuffs (3¢ 9) at bottom of ‘SIE ‘A to. Ts side length. ‘Ato 104] Equals crotch aeoth = (Tease Incluged). | fe length is measured from waistline to top of cuff. <> ipline on foundation. VS of line Dito C, less 1/4" (about for size 8). 9f,0 to Fe Ralfof Eto Ge "0 to J,plus raw, ine through point in draw & curved line fron point M toward Sy cones fines Tength' ¢ to B."“Continue center front ‘down to N = Equals length C to B:Square down fron point H. = Connect for lower In 1m ver. Draw’ center front line ae indicates. Draw center back Iine as shown by cotted lines Genter Between 0 ang Genter Between H and je through point. o: ne. throug int R; then draw curved Brew Botton Hine as ingic ie Equals waistline on front of bib. Conmect"for sige Sean. x For left cide opening, add 1-1/2" to side of back as shown by dotted |ines. Mark position for knee patch as shown:Then make pattern for the patch. a make corresponding notches to complete ‘the pattern.DRAFT OF SNOW SUIT (HOOD AND ODAT) v — HOW TO ORAFT THE HOOD PATTERN I to B- Equals neck from center back to center front (about 7* for size Ble toc Eos hong neignt (&1/4rfor | size 8, plus S'S. to.0- Equals’ Fine “a to 8, square Gate wectemeiees to F = S742 "then comet F to Es ol Qials half of D to C. ted tok ‘Draw diagonal tine, Hoe tou Equats half'of 1 to 9. to N= 172t;° then “araw curves line fron’ 1 "ton to F for from edge. Iv andy center of hood as fo lows: ‘6a seans and rake corresponding notches. HOW TO DRAFT COAT Tang Ir Using the dress front foundation slash from deepest part of armhole to breast point: then swing upper part of front fo within 1/2" of straight. dotted lines 111 for coat draft,lover the neckline 1/4" In front ang Back, extend shoulder 3/4" Geepen the arnholé 1%) and extend 61 Sean I-I/2" at ‘arstole ang nipline then lengtiien below hipline and add’ to Center front as shown by dotted lines. Ww Mark position for buttons and button holes (about I-I/4" elther side of cen- ferbfgent and about. 4° Draft, facing, 1-1/2 wise at shoul der ana 4r wlee'at bottom as indicated 174 apart for Mark position for ‘elt ang fap pockets on’ fronts ‘Add seane and a |" hen at pottos. Make belt pottern, 1-1/2" wide fin- fed, and the fength of waist measure jeabout 10" extra for” buckle ex Rention, etc. "Em DRAFT OF 2-PIECE SLEEVE 1 Draft sleeve sone as dress sleeve, out widen “Isf/a"sat-arm, I-72" at elbow, BneTengnen 1F'a8 Gterarntetoth. Shape sleeve and’ ‘drat position for Under sleeve seams as” shown for the Jacket sleeve on pope S, diaorans 11 and TIT. OL Add seans anc 1* ‘hen at bottom; then ake’ corresponding notches.ee aa eee ee ee een a ke The body measurements listed below, have been compiled | Al! in accordance with those issued by the Bureau of Standards. | wais They were prepared to serve, as a quide for drafting as well 35" grading patterns in toddlers!’ sizes. oe | tear ‘5ODY MEASUREMENTS FOR TODDLERS" SIZES This is ast ffi e"tabout in"stzes'4, MEASUREVENT CHART went desioned in these sizes have Tig feature which Sand 8. w slightly ni gher fat waistlinefy ‘above the’ nal also applies to children's CENTER GACK LENGTH - (To natu stline) aan 'AGAOSS BACK - (about 3* below neck) 1017/2 ‘SHOULOER SEAM S14 ay FULL BACK WIDTH (At tustline) Teale z SIDE. SEAM LENGTH 278 YL! BACK WAISTLINE (Fron side to side) 9-9/6 ‘ENTER FRONT LENGTH - (To natural waistline] a [NGROSS CHEST-(Atout 2* below neck) 10 FULL FRONT WIDTH = (At bustl ine) 13 FHONT WAISTLINE > (From side to side) o-3/4 BUST CIRGIMFERENCE- (Body Weasurenent) @ 2 z UST CIRCUMFERENCE - (Ease included) zaa/4 [ona | 26-36 WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE wee | 2% [20-12 HIP CIRCUMFERENCE 2 2 2 NECK CIROUMFERENCE 10 | 1-1/4 | 10-3 UNDERARU LENGTH - (From armhole to wrist) | 8-1/4] O17] 10 ‘ARM CIRCIMFERENCE 7 7-38 | 7-34 ELBOW CIRCUMFERENCE - (With arm bent up) 72 | 7-718 | 8-1/4 COVERARW LENGTH ~ (From shoulder to wrist) 2 13 WRIST CIAGIMFERENCE - (Loose measurenent) | 5-3/8 | G1/2 | 6-8/8 CERVICAL HEIGHT - (Back of neck to floor) Es 2 3a ‘CROTCH DEPTH - (I* ease included) ze] 8 Bue WAIST TO FLOOR ~ (At sie) Wi? | ware | 22 TMAIST 10 HIPLINE ~ (At center back) 338 | oa | 418 DRESS LENGTH - (From back of neck) 15172 | eve | 7-1/2 r FITTED BODICE FOUNDATION Draft the vosice according to the 4 Feet on sven on ol Loning.enanes BACK page tut ak andvigwer the armole I/4",as_ shown By dotted lines. TENATURAL WAIST LINE ~ DRESS FOUNDATION Trace outline of the bodice founds HIGHER WAISTUINE for siz }s Cfo Dy Ingicate the position for the sli ght! nlgherwalstline on front) andback by drawing garatlel tines | 178 "ana TY Stove" tha natural ‘waistline. The sane method may be applied whan drafting chilarents sizes'4,6 and 6. a SLEEVE FOUNDATION Draft sleeve according to Gi rections given. on’ page 4 (rang taf, “but make the fol lowing changes: Atoc- 1/2 Gta y= 2 To con the Fret trace front sieeve; then trace back of sleeve’ aa! shown hy “aot tea |‘CORRESPONDING BODY MEASUREMENTS FOR CHILDREN'S SIZES 3 TO 6 AND GIRL'S SIZES 7 TO 12. mmr fared to serve as a guide for drafting as The body measurenents listed below have deen compiled in They were prt Has" Grading patterns In sizes’ to 6s and 7 to 92. accordance with those Issued by the Bureau of Standards. wel CHILDREN'S SIZES GIRLS sizes STs ae | peace [ees [ca | [wR | TOT | CENTER BACK LENGTH | a | o-1/2[ 10 [10-17] [11] -17e [1-178 | 13 [fron nape of neck to waletline. ACROSS BACK To-172 [0-3/4 | 11 [1 -1/al (77-178 | He3/4 [2-1/4 [72-374] from armhole to arnhol SHOULDER SEAT Si/4[ 3-1/2| S578] 3-3/4] [ 3-7/8] 4 | 4-1/0] 4174] fron sise of neck to arahole To=3/4 [13-174 [13-678] — 14] [ia-a/e [14-37 [15-172 | 16-174 Tron eTde sean to-sTde seams SIDE SEAM LENGIN | S-7/@] 4-1/8 41/2] aa7A| | s-1/a] 5-1/2] 6 | 6-1/2| fron armhole to waistline Cofaicicwarsremne —-o=s7e [10 [70-174 [70-172] [To-ae [1 [11-72-12 fron see sean to side sear CEWTER FROM LENT, 8 Tee] 8 | 9-172] [10 Dase_of “heck to walstl ine] [ay acnoss_cresr 1010174. [10-172 [10-374] [11 aranole to arfhole. Pop ru raowr wibTH | —~is—[is-1/2[is-7/a [14=i7a] [T4578 1 [15-374 [16-172] Fron side sean to side sean, Cio] FRONT WAISTLINE, jo-3/4] 1 Ti=t/4 TH=172] [T=3 fa BUST CIRCUMFERENCE | 22 [28 [=a-1/2 | 2a] [25 BUST CIRCUMFERENCE [25-374 [36-374 |27-1/2 | 28-174] | 20. WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE|20-I/2| 21 Jai=l/2| 22 | |ga~i/a| 23 | 24 | 25 [a fairly snug measure Hip CincUwFERENCE | 23 [24 | 25 [26 || 97 | 28 [30 [92-I72]at fullest part of hip. NECK CIRCUMFERENCE] 10-378 [10-172 [10-37 | 11 | |I1-I7a] 11-172] 12] 12=-1/2| at base of necks TROERARW LENGTH To [10-578 | 11=174 [11-776] [73-172 | 13 13-374 [14-172] Tron arahole to wrist W_CIRCIMFER rset 8 | w/a] 6-1/2] | ora/e| 9 | 9-3/8 | O3/alat fullest partot muscle, ELBOW CIRCUMFERENCE] @-I/a | 8-172 | 8-3/4 | 9 | [o-I/a] 174 | 9-5/8 10 [with arm dent up. COVERARM LENGTH is | ia [ia-3/a [76-178] [je-'/a | 17 | 18 [19 | from top of arm to wrist WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE] 5-5/8 | 5-374] 5-7/8] 6 || 6-I/a| 6-1/4] 6-1/2 | ©3748] a loose neasurenent. ‘STATRE (WEIGHT) [38] 41_[_«@ | @7_| [adi] 60 | 05 | 66 _[ height seasurenent. HEAD _HETGHT ‘7 | 7-174 | 7-172 | 7-374] | 8 | 6-174 | 8-172 | 8-378] from nape of neck to top of heat CERVICAL HETOR “SI 53-374 [38-1/2 | 39-174] [41-172] 43-374 | 46-1/2 | AO=T 7a] Tron nape_of neck to Toor. (CROTCH DEPTH B72] 9 | o-a/a| 9-3/4] [1-1/8 | 10-1/2 | 10-7/6 | 11-174] 1" ease allowance Include SIDE LENGTH, ‘22 Ba- 174 [6-1/2 | 6-3/4] |30-1/2 [ao=1/e | 34=1/6 | 36-1/4] from wast to floors WAIST 10 HIP. alfa] 4-12] «3/6 5 | [5-t/a] 5-1/2] 5-3/8] 6 [at center backs a ee ea MRT ee eT eRe ee Cans) ee ° DRAFT OF FITTED BODICE FOUNDATION When drafting the fitted back ang front according to'the peasuranent ener above Use the stes-bycstep directions piven tthe crafting book. Do likewise when drafting th foundation,A ee GRADING CHILORENS SIZES ma (Showing method of grading size 8 to 10) GRADING is the artof increasing or decreas ng a sample size pattern proportionately, ac coraing to the standard boay measurements. The method of orading a pattern fron one size to anothers is “oye anifting. the pattern piece. trom point to pointytraciag each step as, you 00. slong. The instructions for graging the front, back and Eleeve as shown on this nerely funganental, fang should serve aa basis for grading style Patterns. How To GRADE THE BACK 1 WAIST LENGTH GRADE Gram center pack Lines then shift pattern up"3/4* from A to'B. and race the comer at point B. 11 BACK NECK GRADE Next shift pattern out 7B! keeping center back Barallel to f then trace corner at point C. mr Shift pattere out 1/8" ang then mark corner-at point De Iv PART OF ARMHOLE GRADE Shift pattern down 1/4" tracing. arahote. from b 10°€ ang farking point E, about’ 2" above bust Tin. ‘SHOULOER SEAM GRADE t tface. from ¢ tod; | PART OF ARMHOLE GRADE WIT BACK WAISTLINE GRADE o—*" . iC var o x $ x 1 7M Shift, pattern out 1/8", ‘Shift tern in, 3/8" | Showing where and how and. thee “atabote foe and trace fron Glio'Ato | auch pattern sas graded. atpoint Fee Son erie aia | Diagram also. shows how ' \ tovgrade waistline of pattern that nas a waist bart. HOW TO GRADE THE SLEEVE 1 t * To grace the front, use same” method of shifting Pattern as shown for grage Fng. the back, "except the neck ‘which Is graded in to" shifts. Showing, where and how inuch pattern was graded. Diagram also. shoas how to grade” waistline of Battern that hes. a waist, Gert. To grade the sleeve, use Seng method of shifting pat ora Salen 8'to {02 ‘ae shown for ng the Back-PATTERN DRAFTING CHILDREN’S GARMENT DESIGN BATHROBE DRAFT (Housecat) ..... BLOUSE DRAFT 3 COAT ORAFT (Box Coat) COAT ORAFT (Reefer or Princess Coat). 10 QOLLAR DRAFT (Coat Collar) .+se++ an COLLAR DRAFT (Jacket Notch Coliar) 30) SOLLAR DRAFT (Peter fan - Flat Fitting Collar)... 8 COLLAR DRAFT (Shirtwaist Collar) a DRESS DRAFT (Hip Length Foundation) al DRESS DRAFT (Princess Dress Style) . fe DRESS DRAFT (With Gathered Skirt)... 8 FITTED BODICE DRAFT (Sizes 4 to 2) ce HOOD ORAFT «os sss. +e ho JACKET ORAFT (With or without sheuléardart) 9 OVERALLS DRAFT (Bid and Trousers) ... 13 PAJAWA DRAFT (Jacket and Sleeve) fe PAJAMA TROUSERS DRAFT... 115 PANTIES DRAFT... 6 PLAY SUIT DRAFT (Waist ard Shorte) ot SKIRT ORAFT (With Suspenders) 8 SLEEVE ORAFT (Bathrobe Sleeve) ar SLEEVE DRAFT (Box coat sleeve) un SLEEVE DRAFT (Dress Puff Sleeve) 6 SLEEVE ORAFT (Dress Sleeve Foundation) ‘ SLEEVE ORAFT (Jacket 2 Piece Sleeve) | @ SLEEVE DRAFT (One-piece Shaped Sleeve) 4 SLEEVE ORAFT (Pajama Flat Top Sleeved ar) SLEEVE ORAFT (Sleeve with gathers at bottom)...-. 4 5 5 5 8 SLEEVE DRAFT (With gathers at top and bottom) SLEEVE ORAFT (With darts at top of cap) .....+0-+ SLEEVE DRAFT (With pleats at top of cap) s.-.c-.. SLIP ORAFT (Princess style) ... i ee ee eee OeFe ee eee ee ee eee ee UES DRAFT OF FITTED GODICE FOR CHILDREN'S SIZES 3 TO 6, AND GIRLS! SIZES 7 TO 12 2 The I ttusteations below Indicate where each boay measurenent. ie taken on the. figure, The meagurenents 4 and'6 on. the back,and 9 and. 10 on the front, are taken fron cide sean to side Stan” The heasurenents 2 and Bare taken fron afehale to armhole ‘CENTER BACK LENGTH ‘ACROSS BACK ‘SHOULDER SEA. FULL BACK MOTH SIDE: SEAM LENGTH. PBACK WAISTLINE [7 [center From Teer fe [across cuest fo ruie Front wort Co raowr maistuine — Bs BACK ACK MEASUREMENTS sz [3s ]* [5 6 7 wo [2 Awoslo [evel wo imwe|{ T=1/4| 13 | Eouals Center Back Length. Ato cll2-174 [eae] 172] @5/e | | are ‘3-1/8 [3-174] Equals about 1/4 of Center Beck Length. Cte O'S-1/4 | 5-a/e [5-1/2] 5/8 | ['S-a/4| 5-7/8] 6-1/8 | 6-3/8 | Eavals 1/0 of Across Sack neasurenent. Atoel v2 | we | se] 58 || 58 5/8 | 3/4 | Equals shoulder height line. Eto FS /2 [S-b/e [5-74] B7/a | [6 6-3/6 [6-8/8 | Equals Tine C-0, plus 1/4" Fito Gf r-/2 [I-12 | 8/6. 1-37 1-3/4 | 1-7/6 | Equals shoulder slope depth. to Hse [era [ S76] & 1/8 4-3/8 [4-1/2] Equals Shoulder Sean (\/4" ease included). tok Curve a line for back of rack Bto J [esa] 4 [ese] £676 | |S [saa] 6-770 |6-a7e | Equals Side Seam Length, lese 176 J-to « [e-s/e [6-576 [ear F17a | ars | ara [S18 1/2 of Full Back Wicth neasurenent. tol [3-7/8 [e/a 4-172] #374] | Fie | s-1/2] 6 —_[e-W72 Sige Sean Length Ltow] ae | v2] we] We || se | 6/8 | 8/6 | a4 | Severe across at point L. Wte k nect for Side Sean T Sto NS 1/8 |e Ua| Soe] SVE | (SSeS, SG [EUG | Covel V2 of JeK Tine. ite W nnect to coaplete the waistline. Dto-0 Square a line down fron point D, to line Jo ‘ote P] Be | BE | BE] TA] [are -aya | TE] 77S | Draw octagonal tine at a5? angie. Gite K Draw curved arnfole Tine fron ¢ to 0 to Pt K Hote | Wap eee HIT] | 17a.| 17a] T-S7S |= B7S | Cavals width of dart at waistline. Liek Equals distance fron B to center of WO- For dart, connect fron N to R to 0. FRONT MEASUREMENTS sms [* [s Je ee Ato ble [eve] © [ore || 10 [io-i7e|imiva| 12 | equals Center Front Length Ato C175 | 878 | -SA THT TS] S174 | ESTE | Eauals about 1/5 of Center Front Length. Cte OY [S16 [S174 [Bae | | S172] S878] 6-776 [& Vo] equals 1/2 of Across Chest Measurenent Ato twa] ewe; Ve] | 2 | 2 [eve [e178] eavals ohoulser height Tine. Eto F [5-3/8 [5-172 [-o/e [ara | [$-175| 6 —| G14 | 1/2] Eavals line C0, plus Wet Fito Gf ve five ve] 1/4 1-174] ia] 1-3/8 | 1-378] Cevals shouleer slope eeoth. Co hfs ie eve ere [eae | [SME] 4 | ive | aia] caval shoulser sean. tom Draw @ curves neckline, after salaring acrous aA, and sovaring fron H, a illustrated, TIES SIE Sse] ETT | [ATH Ta HTE|ETA Cowal about 75 of Center Front Length. ife-t72 [e=ara [6-776 [7-170] | 7-17a]7-17e| 7-778 | 6174] Equals 1/2 of Full Front Width measurenent tw [e778 [eri7e |e Vep ease | [178 S172} i Sige Sean Length. a Tine down {ron point D-to Tine J-K: z Z t D Wee [We | | 7876] |S SE “SETS Oraw a ciagonal line at 45° angle. Stok Draw carved srafole Tine fron G to 0 to Wt Ke B te Of F178 | Fae [Sse [SE | [A Pea ere [eara] Eavals F to] on Center Front tine, Oto Pfesra [easel era] =e | [3 S176 [51/4] Equals about 1/2 of Tine € tof. Bto leas eae laveleve| | ese] es7e| Hs | 7/6] Equals 0 to P, less 3/8. ‘Tio Connects, ‘Cito Ra | ew [ee [ee | [T= 172 | =67S | Hare |= 77 | ovals width of dart at waletline. Rito Equals length of line Q to P. Reto Connect to complete the waistline.aaa How To DRAFT DRESS FOUNDATION, IP LENGTH a The cress foundation should be about 2 larg nde to ensure ‘around bust than the fitted bodice. This. can “be accomplished by adding W/2_ to. the front, an “1/g" to the. back, at side seans as, shown’ in giagran 1. 1 Using the fitted waist front and back, 9 a guide, Graft the dress. foundation by adding 1/3" gt each Siae,granegate lowering armhole, 1/4", 25 shown by jee lines. e [ole Sie] saa] 6 | Equals waist to hiplin ee] e-/2 [8-778 | Equals 0 to €, plus 1/4" ‘Connect. Sia] Se | Sa7a] equals Ato 8, less Va : E Sr 1/8 [6-1/2 | 8-7/8] Equals 6 to Con back. 5-9/8 [5-6/8 [5-7/8] Eels H to G, plus 1/6 ware a, line across at K, indefinite length (about 2"). To cosy a-The front ratty first stash fron L to My and cut-out waist dart N''to Mand 6 to M; then pivoting at goint M, swing front so that Doint Prtouches sauared line near point Ky as shown In diagram, ITI. ut Connect P to J. Gonpiete the wivst dart in {ront, fom waistline to hin,by making the Space from H to Qat hipline,egual L to, at dustline: then connect Wto'9 too. Make dart if back below waistline, in same manner as in front. The illustration above shows the waistline sloped slightly toxara the front, having the waistline, i/4* deeper at center front,and 1/8" Geeper at "side sean’ than st center back. Therefore the distance Between “the waist ano hipline at center front Is I/a" shorter than at center back. as shown in diagram 11. HOW TO MAKE A SHOULDER DART FOUNDATION 1 Mark position for dart fron center of shoulder to breast point: vreark sbetions A and 6. 11 Slash on dart Line and then close up front dart to form shoulder dart. Braw'vSsnaped aart {ron shoul der saan to about 2" above brest point For shoulaer dart in back, draw 1/4* V-shaped dart, from center of shoulder to center between’ shoulder and Bustling.SLEEVE DRAFTING 4 HOW TO ORAFT THE SLEEVE FOUNDATION For example: If arm measure, is 8° for size 4, The sleeve craft provides for 9 2" minimum sake pattern 10" wide, or 5* from D to €. Towance around arm at muscle (bices)- Line A to 8 should be in center of draft.\ an jeane| Oo g6 otal go Tg a fa to 6] 0 ]i0-6/8|11-1/aii-7/a]io- 172 | 13 _1G-a/4 [14-72 Cavale underarm length. 3 Atocl 0/6 | 5/8 | s/6 | sal sa | aa | 3/4 | a4 [ark point Con line iB. D'to Ef 7/6] 5 | 5-1/6] 6-1/4} 3/8 [5-1/2] 5-2/4| 5-7/0] Ecuals 4 of arm neas., plus I" ease. tof] 8 | S-378| 5-0/6] 6 [6-1/4 | 1/2] 6-7/8] 7-1/4 Eavel's 4 of Tine WB. [eto Wf 4-175] 4-1/4| 4-3/6 #172] «5/8 | -a/4| 4-7/8] 5 [Equals about 4 of elbow measure. For wristline, square across at each side of point 8, indefinite length Tee] 13 | 14 fiaaraie-r72]ieW74] 17 | 1B | 1 [Equals overara length; craw straight line from J to Kz through G and D. Trou 1s | 14 fiaearalio=i/afiemiza] 17 | 16 | 1 | Equals overare length; craw straight line fron L to M, through H and E. to nec GUIDE LINES FOR SLEEVE CAP ara conterbetreaniOre™ @ to R; then from P to § to T. N~ Center on line K-M. 5 = Half of ue, less i/ For top ot cap, draw curved T= 3/4" fro point C. Tine fron's.to'N to 'Q,” for botton of cap, from 0 toh Draw guide lines fron 0 to tos. HOW TO DRAFT THE ONE-PIECE SHAPED SLEEVE Ilusteation shoss plain sleeve, slightly shaved, with single art at elbow. 1 Trace out|jne of the above sleeve draft;then shape J'to'd 178" then connect U to US V = eaiais 3°1/3°for size 6, with 1/8" grade foreach size, (This eaials 1/2 of wrist reasure olUs. 1/2" for easel Brag Tine from U to'V, BetAging point V, 173" pelon Line J-tethén connect V"to a, V to W- Equals 12 of ‘Tine Urls then connect to F. 1 fo complete the stoove, fold paper on line Q - G, yng. trace” fron "0-to Ato F: then oven oaper and Hola again on'tine G-U and trace from F to W to Ue epeat pracess for tracing pack of sleeve as shown By dotted tines; then convart the extra leroth at 2loow. by. naking 2 Veshaped daft, 2-3/4" long for Sizer, nih UE? grade Yor ach Size, No seams are allowed. HOW TO ORAFT THE GATHERED SLEEVE Sketch shows sleeve gathered into a wrist andy |? wide i 1 Use the outline of the above sleeve draft foundation to draft this sleeva Thevallownes for gathers at bottom in front 12°2/3"0F the alfamance in backs Make seme 1" sorter in fronts 1/2 shorter For gathers, add 1" at front and 1-1/2" at back? then draw outline of sieeve as shown by dotted’ ines. i To complete the size: part of stoove; then ti Make wristoand (double width) 1° was fine shed) andthe reayired. length (bout 7 for size'8, with (/8* grade for each size). first trace front jee hack of [nova |Add seams and make corresponding notenes. pPRESSESSSSSSeeeeeesegegesggggsgggssessese esses seses sd: cari =SLEEVE DRAFTING (4 STYLES) * ieee” Fe PUFF SLEEVE 1 Using the one-piece shaped sleeve as a guide, ‘trace upper” part, making sleove TH "iong at underarm, it Divide sieeve Into 8 equally so2ced parts ang aark sections A toW; than siash aiong “Gotted lines and soresa as’ shown in diagraniil ur Maxe 1/2" spreads between al! sections at top. and potton except at dotton, between U'and'E, at'which place aaxe space 2. 1/2 wiae for Size ake steeveoand (double width) Finished, Make. bang 8-1/3" Lon By With 8/8" grade for each size Allow seans,and axe corresponding notches. GATHERED SLEEVE AT TOF AND BOTTOM Ilusteation shows top of sleeve extended about 1* beyond shaulder. then saking the pattern as shown in diagram IT, You false sections A ana above se -Hbns" Cand Gat center, "as much as sleeve Taito extend beyond. "shoileer. The spread Detweon Cand D at arm is usually half of the"aitowance for the. éxtensicn 1 Trace outline of gathered sleeve foundation, And’divide Into Pparts a2 shown by dotted hes. Wark’ sections A to Oy un Slash sieeve and spread for {* extension itaen os 3 stash tine at | ter part iark ca 2' slash line at lover center pa lof section 0, for siceve opening: Draft steeyénand "8 long for size 8 with 1/8" grade for each size: vkeceizzzaai ee ee ee ee wn a nn ake an emed DART SLEEVE This sleeve, has 3 darts at top of slgeve cap. about. 2°” apart, The darts are” 3/4 Tong and thus the sleave extends about 3/4" beyand shoulder. 1 and 11 Trace out! ige of the one-piece shaped sleeve and mark: dots at too of cab, 2° aparte Braw “the Stash” lines as shown by dotted Nine and mare sections A to €. Slash cap along dotted lines and spread sec~ Tions ‘as fTlustrated,rarsing sections, S/4 at" center and soreading evenly at 105 Tor the Saarts: 1 Draw Veshaped darts about 3/4* long to con- Diete the sieeve. SLEEVE WITH 4 PLEATS AT TOP OF CAP Sleeve extends about 1" veyond shoulder, Bleats say be made, 1-1/2" to e* apart at top of cape 1 Trace the one-piece shased sleeve, and make sleeve 1-172" tong at underares \ in Equals. half cof Tine O-Ll; then draw a curved Fine fron F to N. N to 0 - Square"s line across at point Nz then curve a Tine. from t> 0. D to P- 191724. "bran diagonal line; then curve @ line trom J'to F tnrough tog ICT72h then curvela Vine fron K to. through Q. EtG 8 = l*:then connect from R'to A for side seam tine, For pleats at watstline in front and nick, divide hio~ Then draw V-shaped garts, "trom making. A to J agual half-of front nt and “Ato! equal nal foof back Waistline measure. Make pleat lines about 2* long as shown in diagram 111. ur Draft the saistoands, I" wide finishes (double), to ‘gual falf Of walst méasure of front and back, plus | fn'siab'of back section for closings For side opening in trousers, add 1* for ateve hip!ine, and add about {* for an und Se"inaleated. in front, Tap'in back Add seams and hem at bottom: then mane corresponding notches. als crotch depth yyy aupeSSS5555885555858555858585555585855555555555 ORAFT OF SLIP AND PANTIES INOW INET PRINCESS SLIP DRAFT 1 Trace outline of dress foundation, b re Guee wrath of Front and back, I/2* at busty and 1/4" at waist,"to nothing at Rip, as shown by dotted Iines. Locate center 9c Front. and. deck fines as Titustrated. Make shoulder, 1-1/2" wide at center of front and back ‘shou Ider then draw nev neck and-armhole lines as. indicated. Divide. frogt ‘and back Into 2 parts. each by running da Gonal seas from dart to armholes Mary sections A to E- Seite Saha 1 out out front and. back sections,and close up front dart, Strafgntening conter front line. 1" Trace the 4 sections, leaving enough space for the lover art of the stipe Scape ert inue,Tatral ght Nines hip as shown ~ Fines; making length, equal dress length, teas 2%. ottoa Hines af ghey curved” Rad'Seans"and |New at cotton lake corresoonding notches. Deloy, nip as shown By dotted PANTIES DRAFT 1 section only of the Use _the nip to draft. the pan Gress foundation, ties. then raise ahat cot hip 1 Trace the hip section the waist "and hiplines, Sldes™ to. nothing at con| Sections, redueing.alsoat waist! in As shown’ by dotted lines. Wark see= Tong, A ta Be 111 straight lines down below Rip, ots then draw botton. tine. po Fallel to Npline. Oraw stash Tines Below aarts on front and Dack. Wy To, eliminate dart in tront,. slash elon nips then close up dart. For gathers: in back;stash below hi hen prend tetweon € and'0" necessary sount for gathers. NOTE= The olge to Bg gatheres should eusire spout 21/3, Yiaes the length Gf the malstband:, For examples It fhe fund measures 6" from center back {5° sider 'the, edge. to, be gathered Should total at feast 9" tongs ¥ Draft the gusset sections at bottor of front and back’ ss atom By dotted Gut off 1" at top of front apd tack, nd “draft “the waistoands, 1" wide Finished ‘(goubles, to-eaial walst neasure of front and Back, plus Ie in back for Closing as shown in dta~ gran i u hed sean and make notches. corresponding a Waistband is 1° wise finished. Panties have cpen- ing at sides.‘The body measurenents listed Below, have Deen revi sea and compl led Tn*aceotétnee sith those us ‘SuB-TEENS =e ‘nthe About 5 Feet, 3° zest a iz morte Tsar te Tet fom hapeat neck To warst ine 2 ACROSS BACK Tafa 19 [7 ig Trom araole to arnhole 3 shouLoee sear Tia] e3ie | EET 4-5/8 17 Tron-sise of neck to arahore Heer Taare bse eva Teva Tron side sean to sige sean 3 [sive sew exci | eve] pre] eae] 7 71a Tron-arnbole to safstl in [BRO AATSTU INE Te bewet te v4 Tron side sean to side seam 7 [ceaen rou Lent [T= ETT] Tee Tron base of neck To waistline ‘a factss ches Tete aT reac mole to agahole S-[ruut Fawr MOTH Pisa Ti aie sean io clae seam TO ICEROWT WAST INE eee is Tron sige sean to side sean Tr SIST Cinoouremence Tore] 2 Ta T —3o Tay nessirenent Tr oust ciacwufenence [a0 |si- ve] Se [30-17 ‘ase Includes for Tited bodice wz [waist cincumFenence [es | a4 25] 28 a fairly afug enaurenent 13 mie crncuuFenence [29 sss ai fullest gart of Nip 1a ILnec Cincuwrenence [r= 2112 L172 1 at_base of neck 15 [PINDERAT LENGTH Tes [ee Pee [ee Tran_srmole to wrist 16 [fara CIRCUMFERENCE eee} 10 foe at fullest art of ausele 17 Y-e.adn cigcuwreRoce |e | oe T 10 —T0=1 lth ara baat up nT je evet far, Tron top of afm to wit [Lanist cimcwweeRBee | Sia l e-W/e Le-oel 78 7a loose Reaaurenent Bo | STATURE THETEATT We [w=Ve ea eight senavrenent [ar || ReaD HET of oe, ‘oa from nape of neck io top of head 22 || CERVICAL WETGIT B17 [0-3/8 3a Tren nape of neck to floor. a] coor oeeTH raft" TE [tease allowance inclused 24 [SIDE LENGTH Sra [sale 1/2 fron ssist 19 float Casiwist 10 mF o Leia] eis rie es/B I ora/al at sice sean Sketches below indicate where ieasurenent 1s taken on the Figure. u or RAFT OF FRONT WIT APT OF FITTED BODICE FOUNDATION Yoen sratting the tes sodice asurenan ts anovev sae he steP~ fing, sook, but make ‘onthe Font arate J to 0- Locate point 0, 2° ve Tow point Je Increase the width of Front ane Gert at wlstTine as follows? to S ~ Sane distan on'dack craft. R to T ~ Sang di stan Sa" rant graft 1 Wake the sige cart as follows: Draw sige, cart tine fron P to: ron U'to Fane tron ean bj olvoting'at point P, as Shown Ya" alagead 11. " 1 ane. By dotted" lines. = PAGE SUPPLEMENT TO “PATTERN DRAFTING & GRADING?) D> Conran aes = By Hr HohePage 2 =o DRAFT OF DRESS FOUNDATION (Hip Length) es and 110 Using the fittes todice Front and Gack, aga the extra ease Bilonance, ‘needeo around bust ang waistline. for the ci then broaden the shouldersrané deopen. the araho z ef shown by sotted lines. Shorten back waist art 1 11 FRONT (Hip Length) to 8 - Equals waist to hip measure, less 1/2" (see feasurenent chart for ana’ reen ise.” toC- Eavals bustline O to £, plus 1/4". Square at Bs to F - Connect. t0.G- Equsls H to 1: then connect from J to G tok, to Lcomplete the waist garte 1 ~ BACK (Hip Length) M ~ Equals waist to hip measure (see measurement chart). N= Equals bustiine 0 to P, plus 1/4". Square at Me = Connect. R = Equals tine § to 1; to conplete the waist AFT OF LONG TORSO vRESS Featuring dropped shoulder ana square neckline. Skirt sweep equals, at least 3 tines the hip cir~ Conference of the bodice: and 11 = Neckline Lover the neckline a8 shown by gotted linesyaaking ith 1/8" grace for each'sfze. oT 78 | \ bigones Shoulder = Ralge shoulder 1/2" et armiole, ‘and. drop armhele, at'Slde. sean in Front anc Back; en eratt the 3¢ oroppea shauider outi ine ae Shown by eotted lines. ~s n Back A to 8 ~ Equals back of neck C to 0. 8 toe - math of corer (T2129. 5 Runners Slash slong dotted lines {rom shoulder the'stge cart as shown in dragram 9. E tor ~ Equsis’6 tA. Seuare at €. 1 and v ~ Front and Collar in one Vi ee For front overlap, continue line down 7 ‘ below point fy [ei/4¥ away. fron center hal ' Tet Salter eesti hie i ent i In order to close the side dart, first ae 4 lo locetere pivating point along the sige ~ 8 ; 2 certs"3t Suay trom eenter. front. 7 ee { is Draw slash line fron neck (1=1/2* anay “ PS ' E fren center front) ta" pivot ag Poi ae ' = ' E [DRAFT OF TOPPER WITH DEEPER ARDOLE, var and itr Divide Front in 2 sections as shown by Gotted ines;then separate as shown 1 afagran vit. Geepthrmbote' setsia- Steere Oratt Front facing, Pocket and Welt as Coffer’ ane Front section ts shown by aottes Ifaes. To complete af Toner’ edge teen, add seams and hemvt 6 Ee] n DRAFT OF SLEEVE PATTERN (Sule 1 KON HON 1c seatch at entrane left, ilustratan the 2-niece Topper set-in ‘ Sigeve aieh's at alge durncop cuff, "Sieeve'Ts 210 tengths i <0 up In order toaratt the geen armhole sleeve as, shown in iagrons sto" Wi1, first craft, the: plain set-in coat sieeve as shown 1h Giagrane’T to 1¥ as follow I~ (Refer to Page 1 for tem Measurements) 4 to B - Equals Qverarm Length neasurenent. ito C= Equals Arm Clrcunference B to 0 = Sone as Ato Cy then conner : B fo € > Equals Underara Length nessurenent. D to F = Sane as 6 toe: then connect € tof. G to = Center line between line A-c and Iiite-B-D- 11 ang 111 ~ Sleeve Ce feels US oF 1 ten comect Ko faust. talt of K to. FEIETA SE et comet Pow Bet ITE He to canwabtor Hot of Ww Draft Sleeve Facing, 5-1/2" wide, for a 4" wide turn-up cuff. Divide sleeve in 2 parka fron G to hs then draw line across, "below top of cap. Slash and spread’ |/* as shows In gia” Gran'v, "This provides the extra room for the shoulder pa > For the Deeper Armhole Lover the sleeve cap 3* and extend I* at the sides of each Sleeve section, as shown by dotted lines: Wand vr ‘The deep armhole sleeve must be so constructes, that it wil! oe F tov raige the arm nore comfortably. Thus for deeper. armpols, arm Length of the sieeve must ietiengtl Peat topy as chown in diagrams VE snd vit" 35 Divige top of sleeve cap of each sleeve section into 3 equal eh parts:then gras curved slash Tings, FT lark the sections. A to Sing: sections A ang, jodvag shown by cotte geepy and uivige leah ai illustrates 7 Sthen draw sean ines DRAFT OF RAGLAN SLEEVE (Style 2) 1 Using the Topper pattern of style |_ (before seans have bean ‘adaeg), draft. the, fagian araale on Front and dace by craving Slightly curved lines aeahown by dotted lines. wark sections Rand et Cut avay the shoulder sections, (A ang 8) end apply. then to the €orresponding positions on top of the sleeve sections. 1 To complete the pattern, add seans and a hen at lower edge. i we ey | ls u ' aaa