Jewelry - Basic Wire Skills

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Basic Wire
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Single Eye Pins
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Wrapped Eye
Pins
Eye Pin
Variations
Jump Rings
Jump Ring
Variations
Spirals
Simple Clasp
"S" Clasp
Coils
Basic Wire Skills

Welcome to Basic Wire
Skills where you will find
instructions for fundamental
wire techniques in jewelry
making.
If you are new to wire, please be patient with yourself and if you get
discouraged, read my Bio or send me an e-mail. Remember those bygone days
when you learned to drive a car? What you now do so easily was once a hair
raising challenge. Time and patience will lead you down the road to making
jewelry you will be proud to wear. If you get confused don't assume it is
necessarily you. Teaching wire techniques over the internet is new to me so it
may take some time to make my instructions fool proof. Please e-mail me if
you run into problems so that adjustments can be made.
If you choose to focus only on basic skills, know that you can make wonderful
jewelry with these techniques. The above necklace is made primarily with
techniques you will learn in the Basic Wire Skills section. The clasp and one
bead are the only elements you won't find in this lesson and they can easily be
substituted with techniques you will learn. Please click here or on the image for
an enlargement.
A note to you lefties: Sorry, the photos are all right-handed. But, the written
directions are for both right and left handed people. I do hope you can make
sense of it all........
I urge you to read through the Studio Tour section of my website for an
overview of tools, equipment and safety concerns. Click here for a list of
recommended equipment and tools that are needed to do these basic skills.
Suppliers you can purchase these tools from and 2003 prices are also listed.
The studio tour also includes important information such as how to hold your
pliers.
The wire techniques presented in this section I learned primarily from Lynne
Merchant. Numerous books are also available to help you become adept in an
endless array of wrapping and bending techniques. Here are a few:
"Wire in Design" by Barbara McGuire
"Making Wire Jewelry" by Clegg and Larom
"All Wired Up" by Mark Lareau
Once you feel confident with fundamental skills, then the real fun begins.
Developing design skills and determining your personal style are incredibly
intriguing adventures.
Acknowledgements
On to Single Eye Pins
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&COPY;Copyright 1998-2006. Connie Fox. All rights reserved.
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Wire jewelry is what this site is all about. My name is Connie Fox and I am the
instigator of this extensive website. I really think it should be renamed "Gone With
the Wire"! So, kick off your shoes, lean back and have a good time looking through
the site's three main sections:
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designed by moi.
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wire jewelry.
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New Contest:
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Page...
During the last few years many new products have been added in the Jewelry
Supplies section: Lortone tumblers, Lindstrom pliers and cutters, jump ringer
systems, many gauges of sterling silver wire, and lots and lots of beads with large
holes. Why large holes? When you work with wire in heavier gauges like I do,
finding beads with large holes is a major undertaking.
If you have an insatiable appetite for wire jewelry related information, please drop in
the Forum and say hello. Many of your questions can be answered (or have already
been answered) by this wonderful community of wire enthusiasts.
It is good to pay homage to your roots. These people have contributed to my skill in
making wire jewelry and I thank each and every one of them.

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Home Page
Basic Wire
Skills
Single Eye Pins
Double Eye
Pins
Wrapped Eye
Pins
Eye Pin
Variations
Jump Rings
Jump Ring
Variations
Spirals
Simple Clasp
"S" Clasp
Coils
Single Eye Pins

"In his studios he was engrossed --- quiet and distant to the extent that,
although I kept my distance, at times I felt like an intruder. He would look
away from his work only to locate a heavier gauge wire or to reach for a
stronger pair of snips. If our eyes met, he wasn't always responsive. He
would look away and go on with his work. If he got tired or lost his train of
thought while working on one project, he would quickly move to another that
had been interrupted before. He was soon absorbed in the delayed project,
picking it up with fresh vigor". Calder at Home by Pedro Guerrero
Please don't underestimate the importance of the eye pin. Look
through my gallery and notice how often eye pins are used. Even the
bangles are essentially made on an eye pin. If you are using
sumptuous beads with a lot of detail, too many fancy dips and curls
with the wire will overpower the eye. The quality of your work will
be influenced by your ability to make good basic links such as eye
pins. For your convenience, please click on the images below to see
an enlarged view.
What You Need
12" to 24" of 16 gauge copper or silver wire

Flush or semi-flush wire cutters
Round nose pliers
Chain nose pliers
Flat nose pliers
Click on thumbnails to see an enlargement.
Step 1.
To begin, snip off 12" to 24" of 16 gauge wire to make a

number of eye pins. If you are working with a really long
piece of wire it can get unwieldy. Straighten the wire by
running it through your fingers. Now, with your flush
cutters, cut a bit off the end of your wire to achieve a clean,
blunt cut. Safety Concern: Place your finger above the top
of the cutters to prevent the little flying missile from
finding your eyes, or someone else's. Don't create another
problem, however, by sticking your finger between the
blades! The above photo is a little deceiving - my finger is
just out of the way of being sliced.
Step 2.
With your round nose pliers, place the wire between the
jaws. Where you place the wire - up or down the jaw - will
determine the size of the eye of your eye pin. Make sure
that the end of the wire is just barely peeking out of the
jaws on the right side of your pliers before you begin to
bend.
Step 3.
Rotate your pliers away from your body and with the
thumb of your other hand press down on the wire. When
you can go no further, release the wire, reposition your
pliers and close the gap.
The image at the right shows you what your developing

eye pin hopefully looks like. Are you with me?
Step 4.
Grasp the loop at the joint with the tip of your chain nose
pliers. Position your hands in the same manner as seen in
the photo (lefties reverse). Rotate your pliers towards your
body with the index finger of your other hand pressing
down on the neck of the eye pin near the joint.
Step 5.
Place the lower prong of your round nose pliers inside the
eye. Make sure the wire wraps snuggly around the prong.
With your thumb pressing against the neck, rotate your
pliers away from your body until the eye "sits on top" of
the neck. Straighten the neck with your flat nose pliers if
necessary. Congratulations, you have made an eye pin!
Previous Page
Double Eye Pins
Please contact me if these instructions aren't clear so adjustments can be made.

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Basic Wire
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Single Eye Pins
Double Eye
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Wrapped Eye
Pins
Eye Pin
Variations
Jump Rings
Jump Ring
Variations
Spirals
Simple Clasp
"S" Clasp
Coils
Double Eye Pins

"Learning from books and teachers is like traveling by carriage, so we are
told in the Veda. The thought goes on, 'but the carriage will serve only while
one is on the highroad. He who reaches the end of the highroad will leave the
carriage and walk a foot'." Johannes Itten, The Art of Color
This utilitarian double eye pin will allow you to link beads
together. And a challenge you will face each time is, "How in the
world do I get these two loops the same blithering size?" A little
advanced planning will help and the instructions will be explained
below. Please don't get yourself into a dither (now that's a word
from the Stone Ages) trying to make these eyes E-X-A-C-T-L-Y
the same size. You will drive yourself nuts. Notice in my example
that the eyes are not perfectly the same. I made the eyes imperfect
on purpose. Just kidding.......
What You Need
12"-24" of 16 gauge copper wire

Sharpie or other permanent marker pen
Round nose pliers
Chain nose pliers
Wire cutters
Plastic mallet
Anvil
A bead
Step 1.
Mark your pliers with a Sharpie which will guide how large
the loop of your eye pin will be.
Step 2.
With 16 gauge copper wire you will make a sample that

will help you determine the size of your eyes. Make the
loop of your eye pin. Mark the the joint with your Sharpie.
Step 3.
Unravel the loop with your round nose pliers, flatten with
the plastic mallet, and measure the length of the wire to the
guideline you marked with your Sharpie. This
measurement is how much wire you will need to make the
second eye the same size as the first one. Remember, both
eyes have to be made according to the Sharpie guideline
on your round nose pliers.
Step 4.
Cut a piece of silver or copper wire 12" to 18" long. This
will allow you to make a number of double eye pins. Begin
by making a single eye pin using the guide on your round
nose pliers. Insert the bead from the other end, and measure
how long the tail needs to be in order to make a second eye
pin of the same size.
Comprendo?
Step 5.
Grasp the end of the wire lining it up with your Sharpie
guideline and with just a little bit of the end peeking
through. I like to line up the wire so that when I make the
eye it will be formed in the same direction as the first eye.
Step 6.
Make and eye pin as described in previous instructions.
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Wrapped Eye Pins

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Basic Wire
"The ancient rites of Africa have affected us profoundly. In three decades of
Skills
Single Eye Pins exploring the continent widely and communicating with indigenous peoples,
we have experienced many alternate ways of thinking, acting, and believing.
Double Eye
Most importantly, we have learned how to embrace other points of view and
Pins
ways of living, without fear of losing our own identities but, instead,
Wrapped Eye expanding and enriching our lives and vision". Angela Fisher and Carol
Pins
Beckwith, African Ceremonies
Eye Pin
Variations
Wrapped eye pins are particularly useful when you are using small
Jump Rings
gauge wire (20-24 gauge). Why? Because unwrapped eyes are too
Jump Ring
flimsy to hold their shape and they will create a weak link in your
Variations
jewelry. You can also wrap 14, 16, and 18 gauge wire eye pins
Spirals
successfully. For your convenience, please click on the images
Simple Clasp
below to see an enlarged view.
"S" Clasp
Coils
What You Need
Wrapped Eye Pins
12" to 24" of 16 gauge copper wire

Wire cutters
Round nose pliers
Chain nose pliers
Sharpie pen
Bead
Step 1.
Mark your round nose pliers with a Sharpie to create a
guideline. Grasp the wire with your round nose pliers
leaving a tail about 2.5" to 3" long.
Step 2.
Wrap your wire around the lower prong of your round nose
pliers forming a loop - the tail will extend from the bottom
of the loop. The two ends of the wire should form a straight
line as shown in the photo.
Step 3.
Remove your round nose pliers and hold the loop at the
joint with the tip of your chain nose pliers.
Step 4.
Rotate your pliers towards your body, pressing the neck of
the wire against the index finger of your other hand.
Step 5.
Grasp the eye with your chain nose pliers so that the pliers
are perpendicular with your body. With your free hand
grasp the tail and wrap it around the neck of your eye pin.
Start the wrapping process very close to the eye and wrap
each level next to the previous wrap. Your free hand should
be wrapping away from your body. Wrap as many times as
your heart desires. Three is nice.
Step 6.
Trim off the tail with your wire cutters close to the neck of
the eye pin. Remember to make a blunt cut with your pliers
positioned like you see in the photo. With your chain nose
pliers press the end so it lays flat against the neck.
Step 7.
Place your bead through the neck of the eye pin. Allow at
least 2.5" to 3" beyond the end of your bead to make your
eye and to do the wrapping. Using your guideline, grasp the
wire with your round nose pliers leaving enough space to
make your wraps. Rotate your pliers away from your body
until you make a half loop. With your free hand grasp the
tail and wrap under your newly forming eye. Continue
until the tail is in a straight line extending from the bead.
Step 8.
Grasp the joint with the tip of your chain nose pliers, bend
the loop towards your body. Grasp the eye with your chain
nose pliers (you may need to move the tail towards the
bead in order to get a hold of the eye) and with your free
hand wrap the tail around the neck; the wrapping direction
should be away from your body. Snip close to the neck, and
with the chain nose pliers press the end down.
Previous Page
Eye Pin Variations

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Basic Wire
"Once objects have been cut loose from their contexts and packed off to new
Skills
Single Eye Pins homes, they lose some of their collective memory stored up within them. But
their forms and textures endure. Those who are able and wish to do so are at
Double Eye
liberty to read them, draw them out in new and different ways, grant them a
Pins
new lease on life. This, too, makes collecting an art: the process of renewal".
Wrapped Eye Borel and Taylor, The Splendor of Ethnic Jewelry
Pins
Eye Pin
Below you will find four examples of how to add some style to your eye pin. It
Variations
may seem trivial but even the size of the eye makes a difference in the overall
Jump Rings
effect of your design. If you feel adventurous create your own variations of the
Jump Ring
eye pin. For your convenience, please click on the images below to see an
Variations
enlarged view.
Spirals
Simple Clasp What You Need
"S" Clasp
Coils
Jeweler's saw
Eye Pin Variations
Tubing cutter jig

Round nose pliers
Chain nose pliers
Flat nose pliers
Wire cutters
Chasing hammer
Steel bench block
Silver tubing
16 gauge silver wire
20 gauge silver wire
Eye Pins with Tubing
When you use beads that are highly detailed you should avoid
overwhelming the vision with too many complicated wire designs.
One reason some wire jewelry is less appealing than others is due
to a lack of visual rest. In other words, the design is so busy that
your eye is overwhelmed with the design. Using eye pins encased
in tubing is an elegant solution for creating visual rest, and in a
sense, contrast to the beads. Detail versus simplicity. Here is an
example of a necklace made with silver tubing. Please see The Saw
in my Studio Tour for information on how to cut the tubing. After
the tubing is cut, insert the wire through the tubing and make eyes
on either side. Another option is to use eye pins without the silver
tubing as links in your jewelry. They are a little less substantial, but
if you don't want the expense of the tubing, a saw, and a tubing jig,
try these out.
Hammered Eyes (sounds gruesome)

By hammering the upper area of the eyes with your chasing
hammer you can create a nice variation. After hammering you will
need to coax the circle closed with your round nose pliers.
Eye Pins and Coils

You can create an interesting link by coiling the neck of the
eye pin. Make a double eye pin out of 16 gauge wire or
heavier if you wish. Then wrap the neck with a finer wire
such as 20 gauge. See the section on Coils for further
instructions.
Double Wrapped Eye Pins

Follow the instructions for the Wrapped Eye Pin, but instead, wrap
twice as you make the eye.
Previous Page
Jump Rings

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Basic Wire
"All art movements tend to the pursuit of novelty, but the true essence of
Skills
Single Eye Pins beauty can exist only where the distinction between the old and the new has
been eliminated". Soetsu Yanagi, The Unknown Craftsman
Double Eye
Pins
16 gauge wire makes nice, strong jump rings that are easy to
Wrapped Eye
manipulate. 18 gauge wire makes rather flimsy jump rings that
Pins
can be made stronger if you use two at a time. 14 gauge is
Eye Pin
useful if you are making a little larger jump ring.
Variations
Jump Rings
Jump Ring
Variations
What You Need
Spirals
Simple Clasp
Round nose pliers
"S" Clasp
Wire cutters
Coils
Flat nose pliers
Chain nose pliers
Mandrel
16 gauge copper wire
Jump Rings
Remember to click on the small photos below to see an enlargement.
Step 1.
Wrap wire around a mandrel to make a coil. I use a wire
winder because it is fast and almost effortless.
As an alternative, wood dowels in different sizes make

good mandrels. Keep a tail so that you have something to
hang onto as you wrap. It is easier to wrap if you wind
closer to onet end of the dowel. Don't wrap it too tight or
you'll never get the coil off.
And, in a pinch use your round nose pliers. Follow a

guideline made with the Sharpie. Notice how the coil is
moving up on the pliers. If you coil down, well, you'll see
what happens......
Step 2.
With your chain nose pliers, gently pull the coil apart so it
will be easier for you to make your cuts. Blunt cut the end
of the coil with your wire cutters. Reverse your pliers so
that the other end of your jump ring will also have a blunt
cut. Snip right next to where the end of the coil is so that
you make a full circle. You have now made one jump ring.
To continue, repeat the same process. Blunt cut the end,
reverse your pliers and snip off your jump ring.
Step 3.
Grip each end of the jump ring with you chain nose pliers
and your flat nose pliers. In opposite directions rock each
end of the jump ring back and forth a few times to work
harden the metal. When you want to open and close jump
rings use a rocking motion back and forth as seen in the
photo.
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Jump Ring Variations

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Basic Wire
"All desert people who can afford to do so wear silver, the pure metal blessed
Skills
Single Eye Pins by the Prophet........ Certain colors have specific values: blue represents the
purity of the sky, white the health of the servants, and violet stands for the
Double Eye
dove, symbol of love and gentleness". Angela Fisher, Africa Adorned
Pins
Wrapped Eye
What You Need
Pins
Eye Pin
16 or 14 gauge jump rings
Variations
Chasing hammer
Jump Rings
Steel bench block
Jump Ring
Chain nose pliers
Variations
Flat nose pliers
Spirals
Twisted wire - gauge of your choice
Simple Clasp
"S" Clasp
Coils
Jump Ring Variations
Hammered Jump Rings

Using your chasing hammer and the steel bench block,
hammer the jump rings until the bottom section of the ring
is flattened (photo to the right). The ring opening will
spread and you'll need to work the ends back together with
that back and forth motion. As an alternative, you can
flatten the whole ring. If a lot of hammering is needed to
get the desired effect, stop occasionally and work the jump
ring ends together, then continue hammering.
Twisted Wire Jump Rings

Experiment with different gauges of twisted wire to make
your jump rings. Hammer the rings to add strength.
Multiple Jump Rings
Use 2-3 jump rings together to make a very strong link.
Previous Page
Spirals

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Basic Wire
"The spiral symbolizes the process of growth and evolution. It is the process
Skills
Single Eye Pins of coming to the same point again and again, but at a different level, so that
everything is seen in a new light." Angeles Arrien
Double Eye
Pins
Making spirals is not only a useful skill they are fun to make.
Wrapped Eye
The gauge needs to be heavy enough for the spiral to hold its
Pins
shape. 16 and 14 gauge wire will make hearty spirals. Try
Eye Pin
hammering the spiral with your chasing hammer for a different
Variations
look.
Jump Rings
Jump Ring
What You Need
Variations
Spirals
4" of 16 gauge copper or silver wire
Simple Clasp
Wire cutters
"S" Clasp
Round nose pliers
Coils
Chain nose pliers
Spirals
Step 1.
Cut the end of your wire with your flush cutters to give it a
nice blunt finish. Grasp the very end of the wire with the tip
of your round nose pliers. If you have small round nose
pliers, use these on 16 gauge wire. 14 gauge is a little much
for these small pliers. Rotate your wrist away from your
body with the thumb of your free hand pressing down on
the tail of the wire. Keep rotating until you have formed a
complete circle and you've started to overlap the previous
level.
Step 2.
With your chain nose pliers pointing directly in front of

your body, and the tail of the spiral perpendicular to your
chain nose pliers, grasp your piece in the back of your
pliers. Hold your plier hand stationary and press the wire
against the previous level with the thumb of your free hand.
Go a short distance (about a 1/4"), open the jaws of your
chain nose pliers and reposition the spiral so that the tail is
again perpendicular to your pliers. Continue wrapping until
you have about 1/4" of the tail remaining.
Step 3.
Grasp the tail with your round nose pliers to form a circle.
Remember, where you grasp the wire on your round nose
pliers will determine the size of your circle. Rotate your
plier hand away from your body to form the circle.
Previous Page
Simple Clasp

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Basic Wire
Skills
Single Eye Pins
Double Eye
Pins
Wrapped Eye
Pins
Eye Pin
Variations
Jump Rings
Jump Ring
Variations
Spirals
Simple Clasp
"S" Clasp
Coils
Simple Clasp
"In human affairs, aesthetic form comes into being when traditions exist that,
strong and abiding like mountains, are made pleasing by a lucid beauty. By
contemplating the forms existing in the heavens, we come to understand time
and its changing demands. Through contemplation of the forms existing in
human society, it becomes possible to shape the world". I Ching, Hexagram
22, Grace
Make sure you use a wire gauge that is heavy
enough to produce a strong clasp for your
necklace or bracelet. I generally use 14 gauge
wire, but, for a more delicate piece I may use 16
gauge.
What You Need
Round nose pliers

Wire cutters
Chain nose pliers
Chasing hammer
Steel bench block
Round nose pliers
14 gauge wire
Step 1.
Cut 2" of 14 gauge wire. Make sure both ends have been
blunt cut with your flush wire cutters. Hammer the tip of
one end of the wire. Grasp the hammered end with the tip
of your round nose pliers. I have used small round pliers in
this photo, but you can use large round nose pliers as well.
Rotate your plier hand away from your body to form a
circle. Note: 14 gauge wire is pretty heavy to be forming
these small circles with the small round nose pliers. I use
an old pair with bent prongs.
Step 2.
Grasp the wire (right next to the little circle you just made) in
the back of your round nose pliers. For this maneuver I have
used my large round nose pliers. Rotate your wrist away from
your body, and with the thumb of your free hand, press down
on the wire.
Step 3.
Grasp the tail of the wire with your round nose pliers. See photo
for how the developing clasp should be positioned in your
round nose pliers. How far up or down on your pliers will
determine the eye size. Remember to avoid having any of the
tail sticking out beyond the pliers. Rotate the circle away from
your body while pressing down on the shank of your clasp with
the thumb of your free hand. Form a full circle.
Step 4.
With your chain nose pliers grasp the eye at the joint.
While holding the clasp with the thumb of your free hand
and index finger, rotate your plier hand towards your body
until an angle is created at the neck. With your round nose
pliers close the gap in the eye. The eye should be sitting on
top of the neck.
Step 5.
Hammer the large bend of your clasp for a finished look.
With your round nose pliers in the large bend, and with
your free thumb against the shank, rotate your plier hand
away from your body until about 1/4" remains in the gap.
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"S" Clasp

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Basic Wire
"There is no boundary between the possible and the impossible when
Skills
Single Eye Pins spiritual forces are free to intervene at any moment". Diamond Jenness, from
North American Indian Jewelry and Adornment
Double Eye
Pins
This is a nice comfortable clasp. Make sure you use a wire
Wrapped Eye
gauge that is heavy enough to produce a strong clasp for
Pins
your necklace or bracelet. I generally use 14 gauge wire,
Eye Pin
but, for a delicate piece I may use 16 gauge.
Variations
Jump Rings
What You Need
Jump Ring
Variations
Round nose pliers
Spirals
Wire cutters
Simple Clasp
Chain nose pliers
"S" Clasp
Chasing hammer
Coils
Steel bench block
"S" Clasp
14 gauge wire
Step 1.
Cut 2 1/2" of 14 gauge wire. Please note: The
length of your wire will be determined by how far
up or down on your round nose pliers you make
your curves. You may need to make some
adjustments in how much wire you need to make
this clasp. Experimenting with copper wire is very
inexpensive. Make sure both ends have been
blunt cut with your flush wire cutters. Hammer
both ends with your chasing hammer.
Step 2.
Make small circles with the tips of your round

nose pliers at each end of the wire. The circles
should be flowing in opposite directions from
each other. As I mentioned previously, if you use
these small round nose pliers, 14 gauge is really
going to give them a work out. I use my old pliers
that I bent making small circles with 14 gauge!
Step 3.
Grasp one end of your developing clasp in the back of your
round nose pliers. The little circle should be sitting up on
top. Rotate your plier hand away from your body pressing
down on the shaft with your free thumb.
Step 4.
Put the other end of your developing clasp in the back of
the round nose pliers. The little circle should be sitting on
top.
Step 5.
Rotate your plier hand away from your body. Your free
thumb should be pressing down on the wire. Hammer both
of the large loops for a finished look. If you leave one end
open slightly a jump ring can slide through. Please see
photo at the top of the page for the finished clasp.
Variations
Completely close both ends of your clasp to create a nice link to be used in a
variety of ways. Or, with both ends closed use the simple clasp to hook through
one of the loops to form your clasp.
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Coils

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Basic Wire
Skills
Single Eye Pins
Double Eye
Pins
Wrapped Eye
Pins
Eye Pin
Variations
Jump Rings
Jump Ring
Variations
Spirals
Simple Clasp
"S" Clasp
Coils
Coils
"To 'see' is to go direct to the core; to know the facts about an object of
beauty is to go to the periphery. Intellectual discrimination is less essential
to an understanding of beauty than the power of intuition that precedes it".
Soetsu Yanagi, The Unknown Craftsman
Making coils is easy and ever so useful. Choose a mandrel wire

that is a heavier gauge than the wrapping wire. For example,
wrap 20 gauge wire on a 16 gauge mandrel. Or, you can wrap
22 gauge on a 14 gauge wire. Experiment with different
combinations so that you see the effect one gauge has when
wrapped on another. Also try wrapping twisted wire onto round
wire. And, one more --- wrap half round wire onto round wire
( this is easier to accomplish if you have a wire winder.
What You Need:
Wire cutters
8" of 16 gauge copper or silver wire
3' of 20 gauge copper or silver wire
Flat nose pliers
Step 1.
Hold the two wires together with your non-wrapping hand
as seen in the photo. The heavier wire laying horizontal is
the mandrel - the wire that will be wrapped. Let 3" to 6" of
the wrapping wire hang below the mandrel wire - this will
give you something to hold onto as you wrap.
Step 2.
Grasp the wrapping wire (the longer end above the

mandrel) leaving about 3" between your grasping hand and
the mandrel. Notice how I have created a bend in the
wrapping wire close to my wrapping thumb. Rotate your
wrapping hand away from your body while creating some
tension between your two hands. This tension is required in
order to have nice even coils spaced right next to each
other. You do not want the wrapping wire to twist as you
coil, thus, you need to allow it to turn freely in your right
hand. This is difficult to explain, but you will get a feel for
it as you proceed. Hint: It is easier to coil if you wrap
closer to the end of your mandrel wire; you can scoot the
coil towards the middle as you go along.
Step 3.
After you have coiled as much as you want, reverse the
direction of the mandrel in your left hand. Unwind the tail
that you used previously to hold onto. Straighten it with
your flat nose pliers. Proceed to coil the tail. Snip both ends
close to the mandrel. Scrunch your coils together if there
are any little spaces between wraps.
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Biography
A Rough Beginning. I began creating
jewelry out of desperation. Five years
of floral designing left me with a nasty
allergy to molds, and with no outlet
for my creative energy. By accident, I
stumbled into jewelry making and
later discovered the incredibly diverse
and challenging world of wire
bending, but, this came only after a
painful beginning.
Jewelry
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Beads
General Beads
Metal Beads
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Mixed Bead
Pkgs
My first class was with Lynne Merchant at the Shepherdess in San Diego,
Tools
California. For the life of me I couldn't coax that wire into moving where it was
Wire
supposed to go. Even with Lynnes able assistance and the help of other
Sheet Metal students, I had a difficult time. Thankfully, my stubborn streak allowed me to
persist and after weeks of bending, spiraling, and coiling I was ready to face
Gift
Certificates another class. Eventually the wire relaxed into jewelry I was willing to wear,
and later into jewelry I loved to wear.
Jewelry
Magazines
Tribal Inspiration. While I am intrigued with many styles of jewelry, it is
Sale &
tribal influences that endear me the most. This work reflects life on earth that
Clearance
lacks the self-consciousness and sophistication of more civilized societies.
Give me people who are earthy, natural, and lacking in pretense. It is their work
Gallery
I emulate.
Education
Forum
Roots. I have always envied people who were raised in an artistic home. My
early efforts in abstract painting were openly discouraged by my parents. I am
Biography
sure my dad thought Oh my God, she will never make a living if she pursues
FAQ
this avenue. Even though I chose a more economically practical route by
Links
becoming psychotherapist, my love of art always hovered under the surface.
Archives
Contact Me Before encountering floral design and jewelry making, I was a floor loom and
sculptural weaver. You see, detours always lead back to the main road.
Privacy
Statement
Safety
Information
Shipping
Current Focus. Wire work is both a foundation and a springboard. While I

love the smooth turn of the round nose pliers with a piece of 16 gauge wire
submitting to the gentle curve of the jaws, there are other jewelry making
techniques that have made their way into my work. Since 2003 I have taken
Policy
Resale Card
PDF
metalsmith classes with Deb Jemmott. Love that sheet metal too! Then there is
acid etching, metal clay, and corrugation. Even though I stray into intriguing
new worlds, I always come back home and ask, Will this be compatible with
my wire?
Here is a picture of my mom, Katie in the

"warehouse". She takes care of the beads and, boy,
am I grateful! She also makes all those chocolate
brown anvil pads. She's pretty cute, huh?
Gratitude/Acknowledgments
There are so many people to whom I am grateful for contributing to my jewelry
making skills and to my web site design. Here are just a few.......
Akikio Bourland - for her instruction of the design principles of movement,
balance and negative space in Ikebana (Japanese floral design).
Barbara Chapman - for teaching me years ago about the endless possibilities of
coiling and use of embellishments.
Angela Fisher - for deepening my appreciation of African adornment through
her books, "Africa Adorned" and "African Ceremonies"; the latter volumes
were co-authored with Carol Beckwith.
Nina Graci - for writing about my work with such precision and artistry, and for
her constant support and inspiration.
Johannes Itten - for his exceptional description of color theory in "The Art of
Color".
Deb Jemmott - for teaching me fabrication skills, as well as an endless array of
interesting things to do with sheet metal.
Lynne Merchant - for her skilled wire art instruction; many of the wire
techniques presented in this site I learned in her classes.
Christine Shearer - for adding her web design expertise and creativity to my
website.
And my husband, Jim - who has spent endless hours with me at the computer.

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Studio Tour
Welcome to my studio. On the tour
you will see what tools are used to
make wire jewelry, what
environment is conducive to jewelry
making, and get a glimpse into the
design process. One of the benefits
of making wire jewelry is that
relatively few tools are needed, thus,
your studio can travel wherever you
go.
Jewelry
Supplies
Designer
Beads
General Beads
Metal Beads
For those of you who are interested in learning to make wire jewelry, I am
Earring
including a list of important tools and equipment to help you get started.
Components
Pendants
So many people have commented on how neat and organized I am. Please click
Mixed Bead here or on the above photo to see the REAL me.
Pkgs
Tools
Please begin the tour by clicking on a topic below that interests you. Or, just
Wire
start from the beginning with Meet One of my Inspirations and select the "next
Sheet Metal page" button at the bottom of each page. Before proceeding, I would like to
Gift
thank Lynne Merchant for teaching me how to use the tools and equipment you
Certificates will see in this section. I hope you enjoy yourself.
Jewelry
Meet One of My Inspirations
Magazines
Work Surface
Sale &
Lighting
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The Wire
Wire Cutters
Gallery
Pliers
Education
Wire Wrapping Jig
Forum
Hammers
Biography
Saw
FAQ
Files
Links
Bead Reamers
Archives
Contact Me Measuring Tools
Wire Twisting
Privacy
Drawplate and Punch
Statement
Bead Compartments
Safety
Designing Wire Jewelry
Information Antique and Polish
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Digital Photography of Jewelry

Wire to Web

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Hand Tools and Equipment:

What is Needed to Start Making Wire Jewelry?
A lot can be accomplished with a couple pair of pliers and cutters, but,
additional equipment will make your wire bending life a whole lot easier.
Below I have given you two lists to consider when purchasing your tools and
equipment.
Jewelry
The first is a Starter Kit that will allow you to get your feet (or, should I say
Supplies
hands?) wet. Even with this kit you can make incredible jewelry. Notice that I
Designer
suggest that you get excellent pliers even in the Starter Kit. Your pliers are the
Beads
most important tools you will own so don't skimp when making this purchase.
General Beads
The most expensive pliers I ever bought were the first ones - $8.00 apiece Metal Beads what a bargain, right? Wrong. They lasted 2-3 weeks and made my life
Earring
miserable (well, not quite, but they were frustrating).
Components
Pendants
The "In The Money" List will increase the flexibility of what you can do with
Mixed Bead wire and in some cases make your wire bending efforts easier.
Pkgs
Many of the tools listed here are available for sale individually or in kits on my
Tools
website - see Tools Page or click individual links below. A star (*) precedes the
Wire
Sheet Metal tools I have available.
Gift
Certificates
Jewelry
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Sale &
Clearance
Gallery
Education
Forum
Biography
FAQ
Links
Archives
Contact Me
Privacy
Statement
Safety
Information
Shipping
Starter List
Starred Items available as a Starter Kit
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Flat nose pliers: Lindstrom #7490

Chain nose pliers: Lindstrom #7893
Round nose pliers - extra long jaws: German made premium quality
Micro-bevel cutter - needed to cut up to 12 gauge wire: Lindstrom #8160
Ball Pein hammer: Master Quality
Nylon Head mallet: 1-1/16" x 3-1/4" head
Steel bench block: 2-1/2 inches x 2-1/2 inches
File: #2 cut equalling needle file
Ruler: preferably one that has mm measurements also
Mandrels: large nails, wooden dowels, pens, etc.
Policy
Resale Card
PDF
"In the Money" List

Starred Items available as a "In The Money Kit"
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Flat nose pliers: Lindstrom #7490

Chain nose pliers: Lindstrom #7893
Round nose pliers - extra long jaws: German made premium quality
Small round nose pliers: Lindstrom #7590
Micro-bevel cutter - needed to cut up to 12 gauge wire: Lindstrom #8160
Ball Pein hammer: Master Quality
Nylon Head mallet: 1-1/16" x 3-1/4" head
Steel bench block: 2-1/2 inches x 2-1/2 inches
File: #0 cut equalling needle file for coarse filing
File: #2 cut equalling needle file
File: #4 cut equalling needle file for fine filing
Liver of sulfur to oxidize your jewelry
Bead Reamer: with 3 tips for reaming beads
Color Wheel: 9" in diameter
Pliers with nylon jaws to straighten wire
Bench block pad: leather pouch to cushion your steel bench block
Ruler: preferably one that has mm measurements also
Mandrels: large nails, wooden dowels, pens, etc.
Wire
If you are just getting started in making wire jewelry, I suggest you practice
with copper wire. It is MUCH less expensive than sterling silver and, thus, will
reduce your stress as you learn. When you are ready, jump into sterling silver
wire and you will be delighted. It is even easier to use than copper. You should
have the following round wire gauges to practice with:
14 gauge dead soft copper or dead soft .925 silver
Both Sterling Silver Wire and Copper Wire are available in the above gauges
on my website. Please use the following links to see all the various Wire and
Sheet Metal available.
Do enjoy yourself, even as you practice. If you have any questions regarding
wire or tools, please feel free to e-mail me at: cfox@san.rr.com.
Back to Studio Tour Main Page
Back to Basic Wire Skills

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Pliers
The first pair of pliers I purchased
cost $8.00 and lasted less than a
month before the tips bent. They
ended up being the most expensive
pair of pliers I have ever owned.
Learning the hard way is tried and
true, and after this initial effort to
economize, I purchased SandvikLindstrom pliers. Among the finest
tools in the world, Lindstrom pliers
allow precision work with a
minimum of hand fatigue. Round
nose, flat nose, and chain nose are
the only pliers necessary to create a
whole array of complex wire
designs. The flat nose pliers that you
see above make angles and are great
grippers.
Jewelry
Supplies
Designer
Beads
General Beads
Metal Beads
Earring
Components
Pendants
Mixed Bead
Pkgs
Tools
Wire
Please note: Lindstrom Pliers and
Sheet Metal
Cutters come in regular handled and
Gift
a new RX handle which reduces
Certificates
hand strain.
Jewelry
To achieve more precision I remove the double-leaf spring located between the
Magazines
handles of my flat nose and chain nose pliers. Notice how my middle finger
Sale &
extends between the handles. I am thus able to manipulate the jaw extension by
Clearance
moving my middle finger towards and away from my wrist. I hope you can
figure this one out because it is hard to expalin. Also, notice how close my
Gallery
index finger is to the jaws of the pliers. The closer your fingers are to your work
Education
the more control you have.
Forum
Biography
The chain nose pliers are used to grip wire
and to create bends that are less sharp than
FAQ
those made by flat nose pliers. I hold them in
Links
the same manner described above.
Archives
Contact Me
Privacy
Statement
Safety
Information
Shipping
Policy
Resale Card
PDF
The round nose pliers are used to make

curves, coils, and jump rings (those little
circular links you see in most wire jewelry).
The pliers in the photo are small, 4.7" in
length (spring not removed). I also use longer
round nose pliers that are 6 inches long
(spring removed). You may wonder why I
remove the springs on some pliers and not on
others. Merely, personal preference.
The number one question I am asked in e-mail correspondence is how to

prevent marks on the wire made from pliers. There is no easy answer to this
question, but, I will offer few thoughts. The quality of your pliers make a
difference. My first set of pliers made my wire look like it went through a meat
grinder. Hardened tool steel (the more expensive choice) produces cleaner work
than stainless steel pliers (the less expensive choice). Lindstrom tools utilize the
hardest steel available and then they even make it harder through the process of
salt quenching.
Another factor has to do with how much experience you have in wire work.
You remember learning to drive, right? Remember over-steering, those teeth
chattering stops at the signal, and lunging forward like you were in the Indy
500? Well, this learning process applies to wire too. With time, you discover
just how much pressure is needed to achieve the end result. Too much pressure
means more marks on your wire.
This factor is important. If you are too much of a perfectionist, you will see
marks that no one notices without magnifiers. Are you driving yourself crazy?
You probably need to apply less pressure on yourself, not the pliers.
Here are some methods of minimizing marks, hiding them, or getting rid of
them.
1) Use liver of sulfur to oxidize your jewelry. It masks those little imperfections.
2) Use forming pliers when making curves (loops) in the wire. With these pliers
one jaw is round and the other is flat. This minimizes the pinch on the wire
from holding it with 2 round jaws.
3) Use parallel pliers when making spirals. This unique design allows you to
open the jaws parallel to each other, thus avoiding the little pinch factor from
the inside area of the jaws.
3) Use nylon jaw pliers. These do not provide a strong grip on the wire. I do
love to use these pliers to straighten wire, especially in the smaller gauges.
4) Coat your pliers with a plastic compound. I have not used these compounds
so I cant really say much more.
5) Make sure there are no marks on your pliers these will transfer right into
your wire. Use fine sand paper to remove the marks.
6) Use silicone carbide discs in various grits with your flex shaft to get rid of
those nasty little marks.

7) Those small divots in your wire can be filed away with need files. Start with
a coarse file (#0) and work down to a fine file (#4).
Next Page

Basic Wire Skills by Connie Fox

Introduction
Welcome to Basic Wire Skills where you will find instructions for fundamental wire techniques in
jewelry making. If you are new to wire, please be patient with yourself and if you get discouraged,
read my Bio or send me an e-mail. Remember those bygone days when you learned to drive a car?
What you now do so easily was once a hair raising challenge. Time and patience will lead you down
the road to making jewelry you will be proud to wear.
If you get confused don't assume it is necessarily you. Teaching wire techniques over the internet is
new to me so it may take some time to make my instructions fool proof. Please e-mail me if you run
into problems so that adjustments can be made.
If you choose to focus only on basic skills, know that you can make wonderful jewelry with these
techniques. The above necklace is made primarily with techniques you will learn in the Basic Wire
Skills section. The clasp and one bead are the only elements you won't find in this lesson and they can
easily be substituted with techniques you will learn.
A note to you lefties: Sorry, the photos are all right-handed. But, the written directions are for both
right and left handed people. I do hope you can make sense of it all........
I urge you to read through the Studio Tour section of my website for an overview of tools, equipment
and safety concerns. There you can find a list of recommended equipment and tools that are needed to
do these basic skills. Suppliers you can purchase these tools from and 2001 prices are also listed. The
studio tour also includes important information such as how to hold your pliers.
The wire techniques presented in this section I learned primarily from Lynne Merchant. Numerous
books are also available to help you become adept in an endless array of wrapping and bending
techniques. Here are a few:
"Wire in Design" by Barbara McGuire
"Making Wire Jewelry" by Clegg and Larom
"All Wired Up" by Mark Lareau
Once you feel confident with fundamental skills, then the real fun begins. Developing design skills and
determining your personal style are incredibly intriguing adventures.
Copyright 1998-2004 Connie Fox - all rights reserved. On the web at: http://www.conniefox.com
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Basic Wire Skills

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Your Shopping Basket

Single Eye Pins

What You Need

12" to 24" of 16 gauge copper or silver wire

Click on thumbnails to see an enlargement.

To begin, snip off 12" to 24" of 16 gauge wire to make a

The image at the right shows you what your developing

Please contact me if these instructions aren't clear so adjustments can be made.

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Double Eye Pins

What You Need

12"-24" of 16 gauge copper wire

Click on thumbnails to see an enlargement.

With 16 gauge copper wire you will make a sample that

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Wrapped Eye Pins

12" to 24" of 16 gauge copper wire

Click on thumbnails to see an enlargement.

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Eye Pin Variations

Tubing cutter jig

Click on thumbnails to see an enlargement.

Eye Pins with Tubing

Hammered Eyes (sounds gruesome)

Eye Pins and Coils

Double Wrapped Eye Pins

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Remember to click on the small photos below to see an enlargement.

As an alternative, wood dowels in different sizes make

And, in a pinch use your round nose pliers. Follow a

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Jump Ring Variations

Hammered Jump Rings

Twisted Wire Jump Rings

Multiple Jump Rings

Use 2-3 jump rings together to make a very strong link.

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Click on thumbnails to see an enlargement.

With your chain nose pliers pointing directly in front of

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

What You Need

Round nose pliers

Click on thumbnails to see an enlargement.

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Click on thumbnails to see an enlargement.

Make small circles with the tips of your round

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Making coils is easy and ever so useful. Choose a mandrel wire

What You Need:

Click on thumbnails to see an enlargement.

Grasp the wrapping wire (the longer end above the

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Back to Basic Wire Skills Page

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Current Focus. Wire work is both a foundation and a springboard. While I

Here is a picture of my mom, Katie in the

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Digital Photography of Jewelry

To place an order call toll free: 1-888-350-6481.

Hand Tools and Equipment: