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Summer Internship Report

Phase 1

By:

Pankti Agarwal
Section A
Batch 18

CONTENTS
1. ABSTRACT

2. INTRODUCTION

3. BUSINESS IDEA

4. OBJECTIVE

5. OBSERVATIONS

5.1 FABRIC

5.1.1 POPLIN GREY FABRIC

5.1.2 SATIN GREY FABRIC

5.1.3 TWILL GREY FABRIC

5.1.4 DRILL GREY FABRIC

5.2 PRINTING & PROCESSING

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5.2.1 FACTORY VISIT DETAILS

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RANGE OF FABRICS:

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INFRASTRUCTURE:

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TYPES OF PRINTS:

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5.3 DESIGN

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5.4 GARMENT ACCESSORIES

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5.3.1 TYPES OF GARMENT ACCESSORIES:

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5.5 STITCHING & FINISHING

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6. PRODUCTION PROCESSES: GARMENT

MANUFACTURING 18

Summer Internship Report: Phase 1

1. ABSTRACT
The purpose of the study is to examine the supply chain structure of the Kurti industry in
Ahmedabad. Indian garment industry is one of the leading garment industries in the world,
which is full of diversities and complexities. The study aims at examining the existing
structure of the supply chain at every level from raw material to the garment production until
it reaches to the customer. The study also focuses on investigating the pricing structure
adopted by the manufactures, wholesalers and the retailers.
This is an exploratory research study which examines the structures and various tools and
techniques used at every level of the supply chain. The study is based on the visits made to
fabric processing house, garment stitching units, embroidery units, garment accessories
market and the interaction with manufacturer, wholesalers and retailers. Also the data
available from the secondary sources was taken in consideration.
The supply chain activities consists of the the whole production process from fibres to yarn,
knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, through to the garment manufacturing process. The
study has been divided into five parts: Fabric Production, Printing & Processing, Design,
Accessories and Stitching & Embroidery. The whole process together creates the
complexity, which necessitates the separate study of every stage in order to understand the
structure and dynamics of the complete supply chain in the Indian garment Industry.

2. INTRODUCTION
The textile and garment industry is one of the major industries in India having major
contribution in GDP of the Economy. The structure of the Indian textile and garment industry
is full of variability having the players at every level of their supply chain with lot of structural,
operational and performance differences. The industry consists of many organized entities
which are highly structured, capital intensive and having most of the brand value in the
market as well as the small scale, non-integrated spinning, weaving, finishing, and apparelmaking enterprises and handicrafts dominated by the handlooms and power looms.
The Indian textile industry has the capacity to produce a wide variety of products suitable to
different market segments, both within India and across the world. The Indian textiles
industry, currently estimated at around US$ 108 billion, is expected to reach US$ 223 billion
by 2021. The industry is the second largest employer after agriculture, providing employment
to over 45 million people directly and 60 million people indirectly. The Indian Textile Industry
contributes approximately 5 per cent to Indias gross domestic product (GDP), and 14 per
cent to overall Index of Industrial Production (IIP).
The textile and apparel industry can be broadly divided into two segments - yarn and fibre,
and processed fabrics and apparel. India accounts for ~14% of the world's production of

Summer Internship Report: Phase 1


textile fibres and yarns (largest producer of jute, second largest producer of silk and cotton,
and third largest in cellulosic fibre). India has the highest loom capacity (including hand
looms) with 63 per cent of the world's market share.
The domestic textile and apparel industry in India is estimated to reach US$ 141 billion by
2021 from US$ 67 billion in 2014. Increased penetration of organised retail, favourable
demographics, and rising income levels are likely to drive demand for textiles.India is the
world's second largest exporter of textiles and clothing.
Currently Indian textile Industry contributes about 14% to industrial production 4% to the
countrys GDP and 17% to countrys export earnings. It provides employment to more than
35 million people in the country and is the second largest employment provider sector after
agriculture. In the year 2010-11 total production of cloth was 59556 million square meters,
out of which 2205 million square meters was produced by the mill sector.
The study here explores many dimensions of the supply chain in the garment industry in
India based on the review of the available literature which will be proved helpful and can be
carried on for more descriptive study on the specific issues based on the real data in future.

3. BUSINESS IDEA
To create an ethnic wear platform for online shopping for Women, Men and Kids. The
website will let the user discover, share and shop exotic lifestyle products. The collection
includes Indo-western and traditional kurtis, skirts, shrugs, shorts, tops, tunics, jackets,
dresses, gowns, Palazzo pants etc. for casual wear, office wear, party wear and night wear.
By this we want to bring about a revolutionary change in the way ethnic wear is perceived
and make it a part of your daily life. Our style guide will remain updated with the latest in
trend. The repertoire has been widened by Indian, Indo-western, Bohemian, Indonesian,
African, Pakistani, Chinese and Russian styles.

4. OBJECTIVE
I have planned to initially study the supply chain and consumer behaviour of kurtis and after
gaining experience in this field I would eventually add skirts, tops etc. in the product line.
The study has been divided into five parts:

Fabric
Printing & Processing
Design (usually copies from mumbai/delhi garments, big brands have their own designers)

Summer Internship Report: Phase 1

Garment Accessories and


Stitching & Finishing

5. OBSERVATIONS

5.1 FABRIC
Grey or Greige fabric is basically unfinished woven fabric that is yet to be dyed or bleached.
Grey fabric is usually woven from polyester, cotton, poplin or satin. However, since grey
describes just unfinished woven fabric, there are several other types such as nylon and
rayon grey fabrics. Finished fabrics are available in width ranging from 40" to 132". Whole
range of grey fabric weave includes sheeting, poplin, plain, percale, twill, drill, satin, sateen,
stripe satin, oxford, duck, canvas, herringbone, honey comb, weave etc. These fabrics
satisfy the needs of garment and textile industries.
5.1.1 POPLIN GREY FABRIC
Poplin grey fabric is a type of
fabric made from cotton, silk or
wool. It is mainly used for its
tensile strength and its durability.
It is flat and does not wrinkle
easily making it quite useful.
Because of this, they find
applications for banners used in
exhibitions and shows. They are
also used commonly for apparels
such as sportswear, shirts, suits,
uniforms, blouses and dresses.

Summer Internship Report: Phase 1


5.1.2 SATIN GREY FABRIC
Satin grey fabrics are produced
from cotton and polyester. Satin
is known for its tensile strength
and its smooth glossy finish
making it one of the classiest
fabrics available. These fabrics
are also light in weight. They
are used to make ribbons, bed
sheets ties and evening gowns.

5.1.3 TWILL GREY FABRIC


Tw i l l g r e y f a b r i c s a r e
recognised by their
diagonally parallel ribs. Twill
is usually manufactured from
cotton. These fabrics are
heavier in weight and are
almost completely wrinkle
resistant. The most common
varieties of twill are
gabardine, serge and tweed.
These are used to make
blazers and other apparels.

Summer Internship Report: Phase 1

5.1.4 DRILL GREY FABRIC


Drill grey fabric is also called
Khaki fabric which is well
known for its tensile strength
and durability. They are
usually relatively heavier but
lighter versions are also
manufactured. They are
used to make uniforms and
safari suits.

Count, Construction and Width of Cotton Fabrics


The value in bold represents count. The values afterwards represent EPI (Ends per inch)
and Picks per inch. Then the available widths are given in inches.

COTTON DRILL FABRIC


16 X 12 /96 X 48 / 48",63", 93" , 98", 120
20 X 20 / 108 X 56 / 48", 63", 93" , 98" , 120"
20 X 16 / 108 X 56 / 48", 63" , 93 ", 98" , 120"
30 X30 / 124 X 64 / 48", 63", 93", 98", 120"
40 X 40 / 144 X 72 / 48", 63 ", 93" , 98 " , 120"

LINEN/COTTON FABRICS
88 X 64 / 20s X 20s Linen / 63"
72 X 68 / 20s X 16s Linen / 63"

Summer Internship Report: Phase 1

COTTON OXFORD FABRICS


84 X 38 / 2 / 20s X 2/ 20s / 48", 63"
84 x 28 / 16 X 8 / 48 " , 63"
108 X 72 / 20 X 16 / 48", 63"

COTTON POPLIN FABRICS


92 X 88 / 40 X 40 / 50" , 63"
100 X 80 / 40 X 40 / 50" , 63"
100 X 92 / 40 X 40 / 50" , 63"
124 X 64 / 40 X 40 / 48" , 63"
124 X 72 / 40 X 40 / 48" , 63"
132 X 72 / 40 X 40 / 48" , 63

COTTON TWILL FABRICS


124 X 64 / 30 X 30 / 48 " to 120
132 X 72 / 40 X 40 / 48 " to 120
144 X 74 / 40 X 40 / 48 " to 120
144 X 74 / 50 X 50 / 48 " to 120"

COTTON VOILE FABRICS


192 X 88 / 80 X 80 / 48 ", 63 "
92 X 104 / 80 X 80 / 48 ", 63 "
80 X 80 / 80 X 80 / 48 ", 63 "
100 X 92 / 80 X 80 / 48 ", 63 "

Summer Internship Report: Phase 1


COTTON BEDFORD FABRICS
132 x 72 / 40x40 / 48" & 63"
144 x 100 / 60x60 / 48" & 63"
124 x 100 / 40x40 / 63"
144 x 72 / 50x50 / 63"

COTTON SATIN FABRICS


100 X 80 / 40 X 40 / 98 " , 120"
132 X 72 / 40 X 40 / 120"
124 X 64 / 30 X 30 / 120"
144 X 72 / 40 X 40 / 120"
175 X (56 X 2) / 60 X 60 / 120 " - 300 TC
175 X (50 X 4) / 60 X 80 /120 " - 400 TC
195 X ( 72 X 4) / 80s X 100s X 120 " -500 TC
195 X ( 86 X 4) / 80s X 100S X 120" - 600 TC

COTTON CAMBRIC FABRICS *USED FOR KURTIS*


132 X 108m / 60 X 60 / 48",54",63"
92 X 88 / 60 X 60 / 48" , 54", 63"
132 X 72 / 50 X 50/ 48" , 63"
124 X 100 / 50 X 50 / 63 "

COTTON PLAIN FABRIC OR COTTON SHEETING FABRICS


44 X 40 / 10 X 10 / 48", 63", 93", 98" , 120" to 143"
60 X 60 / 16 X 16 / 48 " , 63 ", 93" , 98" , 120" to 143"
60 X 60 / 20 X 20 / 48 " , 63 ", 93" , 98" , 120" to 143"
68 X 68 / 30 X 30 / 48 " , 63 ", 93" , 98" , 120" to 143"
72 X 68 / 30 X 30 / 48 " , 63 ", 93" , 98" , 120" to 143"
Grey (location, types of qualities)

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Summer Internship Report: Phase 1


Location: Mumbai, Kolkata, Ahmedabad, Jaipur

5.2 PRINTING & PROCESSING


It involves converting the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically
to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or
feel of the finish textile or clothing. It may receive considerable added value by applying one
or more finishing processes

SINGEING & DESIZING


Singeing is designed to burn off the
surface fibres from the fabric to
produce smoothness. The fabric
passes over brushes to raise the
fibres, then passes over a plate
heated by gas flames. Depending
on the size that has been used, the
cloth is steeped in a dilute acid and
then rinsed, or enzymes are used
to break down the size.

SCOURING
Scouring, is a chemical washing
process carried out on cotton fabric
to remove natural wax and nonfibrous impurities (e.g. the remains
of seed fragments) from the fibres
and any added soiling or dirt.
BLEACHING
Bleaching improves whiteness by
removing natural coloration and
remaining trace impurities from the
cotton; the degree of bleaching
necessary is determined by the
required whiteness and
absorbency.

Inlet for fabric

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MERCERISING
A further possibility is mercerising
during which the fabric is treated
with caustic soda solution to
cause swelling of the fibres. This
results in improved lustre,
strength and dye affinity. Cotton is
mercerised under tension, and all
alkali must be washed out before
the tension is released or
shrinkage will take place.
Mercerising can take place
directly on grey cloth, or after
bleaching.

ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING


A rotary printing is done by
printing press in which the images
to be printed are curved around a
cylinder. One rotary print roll is
used to print one colour. Rotary m/
c are available to print 10 colours
at once. Darkest colour is printed
first & lightest colour at last.
Printing roll pressure is controlled
by hydraulic pressure head.
Printing colour are pumped in to
the rotary rolls through pipes. The
colour is then spread over on the
fabric through blade placed inside
the roll. The fabric is then
forwarded to the heated segment
maintained at 85-90degree where
the colour are dried up. The fabric
is then collected at trolley placed
at the end of rotary m/c.

Mercerizing / Bleaching Area

Scouring Area

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FLATBED SCREEN PRINTING

STEAMING
The steaming machine is used for fixation of printing colours by passing the fabric through
high temperature. The temperature maintained is approximately 100-150degrees for cotton
fabrics & 150-200 degree for polyester.
Speed of machine and heat exposure time is decided on the basis of print colour coverage.
For example: for blotch prints with maximum coverage, m/c is kept as slow speed so that
the fabric can get more time for heat exposure.

STENTER
A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the stenter
machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and also for heat
setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted.
The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform
width.

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Summer Internship Report: Phase 1

Width Controlling Unit

Fabric In

WASHING & DRYING


The fabric is washed to extract
the residual colour from the
surface of fabric. This m/c
consists of several bath tubs
containing cold & hot water.
Water is changed after every
1000 metres to minimise the
tinting of dark colours on to the
light colours

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Summer Internship Report: Phase 1

5.2.1 FACTORY VISIT DETAILS


Name of the factory: KANHA EXIM
Location: Narol, Ahmedabad
Date of visit: 18th May 2016
KANHA EXIM PVT. LTD. (Vimtex Industries) is amongst the pioneer in manufacturing dyed
cotton fabrics and printed cotton fabrics in Ahmedabad, India. They manufacture the
following range of dyed cotton fabrics in 36, 44, 48, 54 and 58 width weight ranging from
80 GSM to 450 GSM and more.
RANGE OF FABRICS:
100% Cotton Fabric & Kurti Fabric with varied Count and Construction
100% Viscose/Rayon Fabric with varied Count and Construction
100% Polyester Fabric/PV Fabric with varied Count and Construction
Polyester/Viscose (PV) Fabric

Following are some types of the fabrics being manufactured:


Dyed Cotton Cambric Fabric

Dyed Cotton Voile Fabric

Dyed Cotton Poplin Fabric

Dyed Cotton Jacquard Fabric

Dyed Cotton Lycra Fabric

Dyed Nighty Fabrics

Dyed Cotton Satin Fabric

Dyed Kurti Fabrics

Dyed Cotton Oxford Fabric

Dyed Cotton Shirting Fabric

Other fabrics:
Reactive Dyed Rayon 120 GSM, 140 GSM Disperse Dyed Polyester MXM Fabric
and 180 GSM in 44 and 58 Width
Procian Print Rayon 120 GSM, 140 GSM Disperse Print Polyester MXM Fabric
and 180 GSM in 44 and 58 Width
Discharge Print Rayon 120 GSM, 140 GSM Disperse Print Alfine Fabric
and 180 GSM in 44 and 58 Width
Pigment Print Rayon 120 GSM, 140 GSM Pigment Print PV Fabric
and 180 GSM in 44 and 58 Width

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Summer Internship Report: Phase 1


The fabrics manufactured are used in making Apparels/Garments. Most of the fabrics are
used in making Ladies Kurtis, Skirts, One Pieces, Blouse and Gents Shirting and Bottom
wear. They operate in two models:
1. We manufacture our own range of Dyed & Printed woven fabrics to stock and also make
to order
2. We undertake outsourcing job of Dyeing and Printing on clients Grey fabric.
INFRASTRUCTURE:
Stormac Rotary Printing
Laxmi Rotary Printing
Fully Automatic Double Servo Falt Bed Printing
Fully Automatic Open Width Soaping Range
High Speed Stenter Machine
Continuous Azer
Rotary Nickel Screen Exposing unit
Flat Bed Screen Exposing unit
The other utilities include CVL Boiler, Thermic Fluid Boiler, Mercerise Ranges, Loop
Machines, Batching, Drying Ranges and other utility machines.
TYPES OF PRINTS:
Reactive/ Procian Print
Vat Discharge Print
Float Dried (FD) Discharge Print
Pigment Print
Disperse Print
Brasso Print

5.3 DESIGN
Designing, where various designs and their different variants based on the market trends,
customer needs and demand forecasting are created. Companies either have their own
designers or outsource from the various designer houses.

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5.4 GARMENT ACCESSORIES


Except fabric of garment, the other materials are known as garment accessories. These
complement the outer fabric both aesthetically, in terms of decoration, and practically, in
terms of ensuring that the garment performs as expected in its intended end use. Various
kinds of accessories are used on garments, some are part of the garments such as buttons,
zippers, interlining etc. while others are used for decorating and enhancing the product
appearance such as sequins, embroidery etc.
5.3.1 Types of Garment Accessories:
Normally garment accessories can be classified in three ways:
Garment accessories/Basic accessories
Decorative accessories
Finishing accessories
Garment accessories/Basic accessories:
Thread
Zipper
Interlining
Button for example: Snap button, Plastic button, .Metal button.
Label: Main label , Size Label, Wash care label
Motif: Leather, Plastic, batchMetal
Pocketing fabric
Lining
Velcro
Elastic
Cord
Ribbon
Toggles
Rivet
Collar bone

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Summer Internship Report: Phase 1


Decorative Accessories:
Elastic tape
Buttonhole tape
Piping
Moir ribbon
Seaming tape
Welted tape
Ribbed tape
Velvet ribbon
Bias binding
Stamped tape
Taffeta ribbon
Galloon
Fringes
Cords
Tassels
Rosettes
Soutache
Pompons
Finishing Accessories:
There are some finishing accessories:
Hang tag
Price tag
Plastic/ poly bag
Tissue paper
Carton
Scotch tape

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PP belt
Tag pin
Plastic clip
Sticker
Butterfly
Collar insert
Back board
Necks insert

5.5 STITCHING & FINISHING


Once the designs are selected, pieces of the fabric are cut in the specific shapes and sizes
for the different variants of the specific designs. The pieces are then joined together in the
predefined manner as per the requirements of the design, through the stitching process.
Many Indian garment manufacturing companies do this process of cutting and stitching
process themselves, whereas others source the local contract manufacturers for both the
processes of cutting and stitching and provide them the designs and instructions for every
step. However, some of the companies perform the cutting in-house and hire local contract
manufacturers for stitching the joints in a prescribed manner.
Once the garment is stitched and prepared it is sent back in case the stitching process was
outsourced, and the garment products are prepared for the finishing process where it is
cleaned, pressed and final preparations are done.

6. PRODUCTION PROCESSES: GARMENT


MANUFACTURING
Garment manufacturing includes number of processes from order receiving to dispatching
shipment of the finished garments. A process flow chart helps to understand how raw
materials are moved from one process to another process until raw materials are
transformed into the desired product (garments). This is a generalised process flow charting
of kurtis which most of the manufacturers follow. Based on present apparel industry, kurt
manufacturing processes are categorised a pre-production process, production process and
post production process.
Pre-Production Processes

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Pre- production process includes sampling, sourcing of raw materials, approvals etc. In
pre-production process develop sample as per buyer requirement/market trends and also
take approval from buyer for bulk production. In this stage, garment factories also source the
material from local or international market.
(A) Strategic Planning: In strategic planning level, management team decide how many
garments will produce in a certain time period, and how many labor and machines will be
use for production.
(B) Sample Development: Different steps of sample development: Pre-production
sampling, Finished sample etc.
(C) Material Sourcing: This stage material should be source as per strategic plan from local
or domestic market and in-house in warehouse.
(D) Material In-house: Fabric, Non fabric, trim and other accessories items are in-house or
stored as inventory. After material in-house, it will be checked as the physical quantities
are matched with booking quantity.
Production Processes
Production processes are cutting, sewing, finishing etc.
(A) Cutting: In this stage fabric items are cutting as per garments requirement. Top and
bottom part of the garments are cut in different cutting process and different types of
machines are need for cut the fabric.
(B) Sewing/Weaving: All the cutting fabrics are sewing in this stage and fix up with each
other to produce a full garment.
(C) Finishing: It is the final stage of production process. In this process all the accessories
are sewing or attaching with the garments. In this stage garments are attached with
swing item and ready for packing.

Post Production Processes


Thread trimming, pressing, checking, folding and packing, shipment inspection
warehousing and shipment dispatch process on etc are the part of post production
process. mainly thread trimming, packing, have been done in this step.
(A) Packing: In packing stage, all the garments are packed and finally quality check for
shipment. Pressing, checking, folding and packing are the parts of this stage.
(B) Warehousing: Warehouses are basically used by manufacturers, importers, exporters,
wholesalers, transport businesses, customs, etc for storage the goods/inventory. In the
warehouse all types of raw material, finished goods and accessories items are stored in
the warehouse. All the ready garments are send to the central warehouse for shipment.

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(C) Shipment Audit: Shipment audit is done by the quality checkers and then buyers direct
quality checker which are appointed by buyers to check whether all the garments are
ready based on PO. This part is mostly crucial part for a garment factory because for
shipping the garments, a garment factory must be passed in shipment audit.
(D) Dispatch for Shipment: Inventories which in central warehouse are consecutive
dispatched for shipment.

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