Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
S/S 2017
Fiona Matsumoto
M1Ei
Table of content
Introduction
Descripton of concept of brand
Style description
5
5
Material overview
6-7
Technical information
Technical drawing
Size Specification + How to measure
Grading
Style sheet
Technical style specifications
General style specifications
Sequence of operations
Workflow
Cost price calculation
9
10-11
12
13
14-15
16
17
18-21
22-23
Correlation
Production and transport systems
Layout of production line
Calculation of lead time
Attachment
25
26-29
31
33
Style description
Information
Style: Womans Sleeveless Shirt with Coloured Hidden Button Stand
Style Name: MICHELE Shirt (Fashion Basic)
Article Number: ONE005
Season: S/S 17
Retail Price: 125
One & Ones MICHELE sleeveless shirt is cut in a straight fit from crisp cotton.
Contrasting blue recycled polyester is used for details such as hidden button stand,
inside collar and side seam binding. The button closure ends in a curved hem.
A metallic button closes the mandarin collar, which adds to a clean appearance.
Material Overview
Main Fabric
Name: DOP001
Composition: 100% Recycled Cotton
Colour: Pure White, AND001
Stiff and thicker woven fabric providing a
straight shape. Comfortable on skin.
Contrast Fabric
Name: DOP004
Composition: 100% Recycled Polyester (water free dye)
Colour: Cool Blue, AND004
Smooth and shiny woven fabric, used for the
hidden button stand, collar inside and side
seam binding.
Main Yarn
Name: Amann Saba 120
Composition: 100% Polyester
Colour: Pure White
Contrast Yarn
Name: Gtermann CA02776
Composition: 100% Polyester
Colour: Cool Blue
Technical Drawing
Front
Back
How To Meausre
F
H
G
I
B
A
K
C
10
Size Specification
READY MEASUREMENT
S (36) in cm TOLERANCES
Total Length
63
+/- 1
46
+/- 0,5
46
+/- 0,5
Shoulder to shoulder
38
+/- 0,5
Armhole
43
+/- 0,5
19
+/- 0,5
Neck drop
+/- 0,5
Collar width
3,5
+/- 0
Collar length
58
+/- 0
+/- 0
51
+/- 0,5
36
+/- 0,5
53
+/- 0,5
47
+/- 0,5
Yoke length
14
+/- 0,5
CB length
55
+/- 0,5
11
Grading
The grading oft he garment is based on an industrial size table with body measurements of
a woman with 176cm body height.
12
READY MEASUREMENT
XS (34)
S (36 )
S (38)
M (40)
L (42)
Total Length
63
63
63
63
63
44
46
48
50
52
44
46
48
50
52
Shoulder to shoulder
37,7
38
38,3
38,6
38,9
Armhole
41,6
43
44,5
45,9
47,4
18,5
19
19,3
19,7
20
Neck drop
Collar width
3,5
3,5
3,5
3,5
3,5
Collar length
57,2
58
58,7
59,5
60,2
51
51
51
51
51
34
36
38
40
42
53
53
53
53
53
47
47
47
47
47
Yoke length
14
14
14
14
14
CB length
55
55
55
55
55
33
33
33
33
33
1,5
1,5
1,5
1,5
1,5
Button diameter
1,5
1,5
1,5
1,5
1,5
5,5
5,5
5,5
5,5
5,5
Style Sheet
DOP001
DOP004
FABRIC (A)
FABRIC (B)
Sleeveless Shirt
FITTING
YARN
BUTTONS
Straight Fit
Hidden Button Stand in contrasting
colour
Coloured details and topstitching
Straight Fit
Amann Saba 120
Gtermann 100
Shank Button, Silver
Plastic Buttons, White
ZIPPER
FANCY LABELLING
CARE LABELLING
DETAILS
COLOUR RANGE
13
Technical drawing
Nr.
Size specification
01
Chest width
46
02
Waist width
46
03
04
Hip width
05
19
06
Side seam
33
07
55
08
Inseam
09
Sleeve length
10
11
foot width
Special measurements
13
14
15
14
34
36
38
38
40
42
16
seams
Stitch
type
Closing seams
Lock
stitch
Seam
allowanc
e
Needle
type /
nr
yarn
type /
nr
1 cm
80 spi
120
1 cm
80 spi
100
1 cm
80 spi
120
30
0 cm
90 spi
100
1 cm =
15 cm
yarn
1 cm
70 spi
120
st/cm
Chain
stitch
17
Lock
stitch
Chain
stitch
18
Bottom seam
Lock
stitch
Chain
stitch
19
Buttonholes
Chain
stitch
20
Over edge
Lock
stitch
Chain
stitch
REMARKS
Terms of delivery
One & One by Dopper garments will be produced in Turkey and delivered by truck
in recycled polybags. All garments are first send to the main warehouse in Weesp
and from there to the individual customers. Before sending, the MICHELE shirt has
to be reconditioned, meaning ironed.
Garment includes: Brand label, Size label, Wash care label, Price tag
15
Date 15.06.16
Season
S/S 17
Division
Female
Style nr.
ONE005
Fabric
Colour
34
36
38
40
42
Cotton
Polyester
DOP001
DOP004
200
300
250
150
100
Body Lining
Sleeve lining
Contrast fabric
DOP004
Interlining
Thick Fusible
Trimmings
PER003, PER004
Brand Label:
Others
Buttons: 1 PER003, 6 PER004
100% Cotton
Lining composition:
Changes:
Due to the use of two different fabrics, gentle
washing is suitable. To prevent cotton from
shrinking, the garment should be dried naturally.
16
Sequence of operations
01. Stitch darts on front panel
02. Fuse button stand
03. Fuse button hole stand
04. Fold and press buttonhole stand
05. Stitch button stand
06. Attach button hole stand to front panel
07. Turn button hole stand
08. Stitch hem of button hole stand
09. Cut, Turn, Press
10. Topstitch button hole stand
11. Set yoke on back panel
12. Stitch front shoulder seam on inside back yoke
13. Fuse one collar stand
14. Close collar stand
15. Cut, Turn, Press
16. Topstitch collar stand
17. Attach collar stand to panel
18. Close side seam
17
Workflow
WORKFLOW SHEET
Art. Nr.: ONE005
PATTERNNUMBER: ONE005
FRONT
1
2
4
5
18
DATE: 14.06.16
SAM
Operation
12
F2
Stitch darts on
front panel
15
20
20
56
53
BACK
Seam
Symbol
Attach button
hole stand to
front panel
Turn button hole
stand
Stitch button hole
stand hem
Machine Stitch
Attachment
Type
Type
1-needle 301
lockstitch
PAGE 1
Fusing
machine
Fusing
machine
Ironing
machine
1-needle 301
lockstitch
1-needle
lockstitch
301
1-needle
lockstitch
301
WORKFLOW SHEET
Art. Nr.: ONE005
9
SAM
Operation
30
DATE: 14.06.16
PAGE 2
Seam
Symbol
Machine
Type
Ironing
Machine
Stitch
Type
Attachment
10
11
53
38
Topstitch
button hole
stand
Set yokes on
back panel
15
16
17
18
59
40
57
56
37
F2
Attach collar
stand to panel
Close side
seam
1-needle
lockstitch
301
1-needle
lockstitch
301
Fusing
machine
301
1-needle
lockstitch
1-needle
lockstitch
301
1-needle
lockstitch
301
1-needle
lockstitch
301
Close collar
stand
Cut, Turn, Press
Topstitch collar
stand
301
1-needle
lockstitch
Collar
Turning
Machine
Ironing
machine
19
WORKFLOW SHEET
Art. Nr.: ONE005
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
20
Operation
5
F2
37
F2
10
F2
37
F4
5
F2
Close shoulder
seam facing
5
F2
Close underarm
facing
55
F2
55
F2
Fold inwards
and stitch
42
F2
Attach armhole
facing
20
F2
29
2
F4
30
42
F2
Topstitch facing
98
Stitch rolled
hem
31
SAM
DATE: 14.06.16
PAGE: 3
Seam
Symbol
Machine
Type
Ironing
machine
Stitch
Type
Attachment
1-needle
lockstitch
301
1-needle
lockstitch
301
1-needle
lockstitch
301
1-needle
lockstitch
301
3-threads
over lock
504
1-needle
lockstitch
301
1-needle
lockstitch
301
Ironing
machine
1-needle
lockstitch
301
1-needle
lockstitch
301
1-needle
lockstitch
301
WORKFLOW SHEET
Art. Nr.: ONE005
SAM
32 10+10
per
button
hole
F7
33 10+10
per
button
F7
34
16
35
36
20
60
Operation
Set button
holes
DATE: 14.06.16
PAGE 4
Seam
Symbol
Machine Stitch
Type
Type
Buttonhole 304
machine
Attachment
Set buttons
Stitch brand
label
Button
attach
machine
101
1-needle
lockstitch
301
Ironing
machine
TOTAL SAM: 1871
21
The MICHELE Shirt takes a total SAM of 1871, which means that the Make & Trim
time is 1871 cmins. To calculate the whole CMT time, cutting has to be added:
CMT = (10% of M&T) + M&T
1871 / 100 = 187,1
187,1 + 1871 = 2058,1
1cmin = 100min
CMT =
2058,1 / 100 = 20,58 min
ONE & ONE by Dopper is sourcing and producing in the EU due to their focus on
sustainability. Therefore, Turkey is chosen to keep the transportation way short, but
at the same time providing a rather high efficiency rate of 70%.
In Turkey, 1 SAM costs 0,19 .
CMT Price = (10% of SAM) + SAM / 0,7 x 0,19
20,58 / 07 x 0,19 = 5,59
The total price for CMT in Turkey for one garment will be 5,59.
22
MICHELE Shirt
ONE005
Sleeveless Shirt Female
description
FABRIC 1
FABRIC 2
lining 1
lining 2
button 1
button 2
shoulderpads
fusible lining
overlock yarn
sewing yarn
topstich yarn
brandlabel
care label
size label
hangtag (recycled paper)
spare button bag
recycled poly bag
hanger
miscellaneous
miscellaneous
miscellaneous
100 % Cotton
100 % Polyester
width
150
150
150
150
Recycled Metal Button
Recycled Plastic Button
Thick Fusible
Amann Saba 120
Amann Saba 120
Gtermann 100
quantity
1,30
0,60
0,00
0,00
1
6
0
0,80
0,17
0,24
0,10
1
3
1
1
0
1
0
unit
m
m
m
m
pc
pc
pc
m
100 m
100 m
100 m
pc
pc
pc
pc
pc
pc
pc
price/pc in =
price/pc in =
price/pc in =
prod country
plan quantity
date
Turkey
1000
11.06.16
unit price
costs
4,00
4,20
2,00
2,00
0,05
0,05
0,00
0,50
0,09
0,09
0,14
0,10
0,02
0,01
0,90
0,05
0,15
0,35
0,00
0,00
0,00
5,20
2,52
0,00
0,00
0,05
0,30
0,00
0,40
0,02
0,02
0,01
0,10
0,06
0,01
0,90
0,00
0,15
0,00
0,00
0,00
0,00
9,74
5,59
16,77
0.75
6,37
0,50
5,59
16,77
0.75
6,37
0,50
COMPONENTS
C.M.T.
(proto) sample(s)
patterning/grading
transport incl. custom duties
reconditioning
1
1
1
1
price/pc in =
PRODUCTION
29,23
SUB TOTAL
38,97
PROFIT MARGIN
WHOLESALE SELLINGPRICE
RETAIL PRICE
COMMERCIAL TICKET PRICE
incl 21 % V.A.T.
markup 2
60%
23,38
TOTAL
62,35
200%
124,71
132
23
24
Correlation
Production and Transport Systems
For manufacturing the MICHELE Shirt and other styles of One & One collections, the
Progressive Bundle system is chosen.
Since One & One by Dopper aims for a very good quality for reasonable price, a
stable system like PBS is suitable. Furthermore, since One & One would not have a
large amount of money to invest, it would be not realistic to chose an expensive system
such as the Unit Production system.
The Progressive Bundle System is a system in which bundles of cut pieces are moved
between working stations. Moreover, each section has an own layout according to the
sequence of operations. One operator is expected to carry out the same operation for
all pieces of a bundle.
The operations have to be divided in workstations. The workstations for the
MICHELE shirt will be pre-assembling of different small parts, assembling of small parts
to the panel, closing seams and finishings.
Using the PBS, workers of the same sections are sitting next to each other, and also in
front of each other. This layout can be used efficiently to save some room as well, since
sections are also working paralel to each other.
The transportation is done manually for this system. Workers are moving the bundles
with roll carts, trolley or racks. The production line of One & One will use roll carts with
boxes for the different bundles. These roll carts are located on one side of each section
and the bundles are taken and placed back by the workers.
Advantages:
- Small bundles allow fast performance
- Cost of labor is cheap due to simple operations.
- Easy change of styles
- Seperation of bundles lead to less confusion
Disadvantages:
- Large inverntory
- Difficult balancing
- Detailed planning is needed
25
Machines
Since the production line has to produce more than one garment, it is necessary to prepare
machines with which is it able to produce realistic amounts of garments.
In order to create the layout of the production line, the number of required machines are
calculated first. The following formula shows how to get to this number.
Target quantity in pieces x individual operations / daily working min. x efficiency
The target quantity can be calculated through the daily output of the style, assuming that
the daily working minutes are 480 min (8 hours x 60).
Daily Output: (Daily working min) / SAM x operations
480 / 29,4 x 36 = 587,56
Using the daily quantity, all operations are listed down each with machine type and SAM.
For every operation, the number of machines are calculated and rounded-off.
Opr.
No.
1
2
3
4
Description
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
26
Shift = 8
hours or
480min
Machine
Type
FM
SNLS
CTTM
IM
Plan on efficiency:
70%
SAM
0,45
0,59
0,30
0,30
No. Of calculated
M/c
0,8
1,0
0,52
0,52
Round-off
Machine No.
1
1
1
1
SNLS
SNLS
SNLS
SNLS
0,57
0,24
0,56
0,67
1,0
0,42
0,98
1,2
1
1
1
2
IM
SNLS
SNLS
0,30
0,53
0,63
0,52
0,9
1,0
1
1
1
SNLS
SNLS
IM
SNLS
0,56
0,74
0,10
0,94
0,98
1,3
0,18
1,6
1
2
1
2
SNLS
SNLS
1,48
0,20
2,6
0,4
3
1
3TOL
SNLS
SNLS
IM
SNLS
SNLS
BHM
BAM
SNLS
IM
1,10
1,10
0,84
0,40
0,92
0,98
1,40
1,40
0,16
0.20
1,93
1,93
1,47
0,7
1,6
1,57
2,3
2,3
0,2
0,35
2
2
2
1
2
2
3
3
1
1
The
following chart shows the required machines.
Machine Types
1-needle lockstitch
3-thread over lock
Collar Trim Turning Machine
Button hole machine
Button attach machine
Fusing Machine
Ironing Machine
All machines together
amount
SNLS
26
3TOL
2
CTTM
1
BHM
3
BAM
3
FM
2
IM
5
42
Every
machine is operated by one person, meaning that 42 workers are needed for all
the
machines. Adding one worker more for the final control, 43 operators are needed
for this production line.
Balancing
By calculating the required machines, the operations are balanced out in order to get
the most effective as possible line. Therefore, some operations using the same machines
are put together as one operation. This shortens the waiting time and reduces machines.
For instance, operation 11 is combined of setting the yoke and and stitching
the shoulder seam.
Calculating the required machines, one fusing machine is needed to produce the target
quantity, but since the first preassembling of fusing has to be done before the following
steps, two fusing machines are set to reduce the waiting line.
27
Production Layout
Using the PBS, all operations are divided into groups working on the same piece of the
garment.
The work stations are as independent from each other as possible, which has the effect that
paralel working is possible. This reduces the waiting time and creates a
productive flow of the operatons.
For example, operation tabels 17-19 are working on the pre-assembling of the armhole
facing at the same time as tabels 14-16 are working on the bias cut binding.
After those two workstation, the pieces are transported to the next station table 20-23,
where finishings are done.
In the shown layout, the operation numbers are written out for the spectfic style MICHELE
Shirt, but this system can be easily adapted to other styles as well, since the production is
divided into stations for diffrent work steps.
28
29
30
Operators: 43
Daily working hours: 8 hours
Daily Output: 587,76
Total SAM: 29,4
31
32
Attachment
805
110
341
33
Production File
Fiona Matsumoto
M1Ei