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Gap Inc.

Gap
Banana Republic
Old Navy

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To All Gap, Inc. Vendors,

Attached is the February 2001 QA Manual for Garments, for use as a guide to auditing all Gap
Inc. programs. Following is an outline of the changes that were made from the previous version of
the manual:

• In-line and Interim inspections have been combined and are now called In-process
inspections.
• Forms have been changed to global forms.
• Country of Origin information is no longer included in the QA manual the information is
in the Vendor handbook.
• Shipment/Packing audit has changed to allow for non-destructive audits.
• Added bar-coded ticket OCR ticket/label check into visual audit.
• Measurement sampling plan has changed.
• Pack audits are now the responsibility of the Vendor.
• Change in the sampling plan for outlet.
• We have eliminated the double sampling plan.
• We have added a section for how to audit tight fitting sleepwear.

It is imperative to retrain your teams and utilize the new handbook effective March 1st, 2001 to
audit our products.

Should you have any questions please contact me directly at (415) 427-6489.

Doreen Maller
Vice President, Technical Services/Product Integrity/Global QA
Quality Assurance Manual
Garments
2001
(A Supplement to the Vendor Handbook)
Table of Contents
page #
Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 4
Contacts................................................................................................................................. 5

I. Factory Visit Procedures


Preparation .................................................................................................................... 7

II. Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.)


What is A.Q.L.? ............................................................................................................ 8
Gap Inc.’s A.Q.L. Standards ....................................................................................... 8
Critical Defects ........................................................................................................... 8
Result of Finding A Critical Defect .......................................................................... 8

III. In-Process Inspection


Purpose........................................................................................................................... 9
In-Process Inspection Forms ..................................................................................... 9
Cutting Inspection Procedures ................................................................................. 9
Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures.................................................................... 10

IV. Shipment Inspection


Purpose........................................................................................................................... 12
Shipment Inspection Forms ....................................................................................... 12
Shipment Inspection Methods................................................................................... 12
Measurement Audit ..................................................................................................... 13
Measurement Audit Procedures....................................................................... 13
“Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit Procedures ........................ 13
Measurement Audit Sampling Plan ................................................................... 14
Pass/Fail Levels for Minor Measurement Defects ......................................... 14
Visual Audit.................................................................................................................... 15
Visual Audit Methods........................................................................................... 15
Visual Audit Reference Sheets (Classification of Visual Defects).............. 15
Visual Audit Sampling Plans ................................................................................ 15
Visual Audit Procedures...................................................................................... 16
Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits .............................................. 18
Gap/Old Navy Procedures................................................................................. 18
Banana Republic Procedures.............................................................................. 19
Gap Asia Auditing Procedures.................................................................................. 19
Seconds & Overruns ................................................................................................... 19
Pack Audit...................................................................................................................... 20
Pack Audit Procedures........................................................................................ 20
Pack Audit Sampling Plan .................................................................................... 21
Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Programs .............................................................. 22
Full Carton/CD Flow Auditing Procedures.................................................... 22
Japanese Purchase Order Auditing Procedures.................................................... 23
Outlet Division Standards.......................................................................................... 24
Outlet Auditing Forms................................................................................................ 24

Table of Contents 2
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Table of Contents (con’t)
page #
Outlet Auditing Types................................................................................................. 24
Outlet Auditing Procedures ...................................................................................... 24
Seconds & Overruns ................................................................................................... 24
Sampling Plan for Rejected Product Purchased by Outlet ................................. 25
Outlet Defects Classification Guide..............................................................................25

V. Safety Procedures
Safety Procedures, kids & baby................................................................................. 26

VI. Broken Needle Standards


Broken Needle Forms ................................................................................................ 27
Broken Needle Procedures....................................................................................... 27
Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures ........................................ 27

VII. Country of Origin


(Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook) ................................................................ 29

VIII. Carton/Prepack
(Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook) ................................................................ 30

IX. Appendix 1 (General Forms)


In-Process Inspection Report.................................................................................... AI-2
Visual Inspection Worksheet .................................................................................... AI-3
In-Process Audit Worksheet .................................................................................... AI-4
In-Process Graphics Visual Audit Report............................................................... AI-5
Visual Inspection Report ............................................................................................ AI-6
Finished Product Measurement Sheet..................................................................... AI-8
Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Tops)....................................................... AI-9
Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Bottoms) ................................................ AI-10
Outlet Inspection Report........................................................................................... AI-11
Broken Needle Log ..................................................................................................... AI-12
Box Audit Worksheet ................................................................................................ AI-13

X. Appendix II (Classification of Visual Defects)


Woven and Knit Dresses / Jump-suits / Coats / Jackets .................................... AII-2
Knit Tops and Activewear ......................................................................................... AII-6
Woven Shirts ................................................................................................................ AII-10
Denim Shirts.................................................................................................................. AII-13
Sweaters ......................................................................................................................... AII-16
Woven Bottoms........................................................................................................... AII-18
Denim Bottoms ............................................................................................................ AII-22
Blazers............................................................................................................................. AII-26
Bras & Bodysuits........................................................................................................... AII-29
Underwear..................................................................................................................... AII-32

Table of Contents 3
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Introduction
The purpose of the Quality Assurance Manual is to outline the procedures Quality Assurance personnel (QA) follow when
measuring the over-all performance of vendors who manufacture Gap Inc. products. This Manual will guide QA through
each stage of their assignment: new production, monitoring production, performing In-process and shipment audits and,
finally, communicating findings to merchandising /production representatives.

In addition to serving as a guide for Gap Inc. QA, this Manual was created to ensure vendors understand Gap Inc.’s
expectations in categories such as product’s visual appearance, measurement accuracy and packing execution.

This Manual is a useful resource for QA personnel, garment vendors and GIS offices that do business with
Gap Inc. Please familiarize yourself with the Manual in its entirety, paying close attention to Gap Inc.’s quality standards
as well as the penalties resulting from failure to meet those standards.

If you have any questions regarding the standards and procedures included within this manual, please contact:
Gap Inc.
Attn: Diane Maclane
2 Harrison Street
San Francisco, CA 94105
phone: (415) 427-6470

This Manual is the property of Gap Inc. This proprietary information is provided in confidence and is solely for use in
connection with dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. While in your company’s possession, the Manual is to be maintained
in strict confidence and must not be divulged to anyone other than those who need to know its contents for the purpose of
your dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. The Manual shall be returned to Gap Inc. immediately upon cessation of your
dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors, or upon Gap Inc.’s request.

Introduction 4
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Contacts
GIS Offices
GIS Americas: Regional Director of Quality Assurance
5200 Blue Lagoon Drive
Miami, Florida
USA

GIS Hong Kong: China Hong Kong City


21st and 22nd Floor, Tower 3
33 Canton Road
Tsimshatsui Kowloon
Hong Kong
Tel: 852.2.730.9883
Fax: 852.2.736.8903

GIS Egypt: World Trade Center 1191


Corniche El Nil Cairo
Egypt

GIS Singapore: No. 391B Orchard Road


#22-6/7/8/9 Ngee Ann City, Singapore
Tower B 238874
Tel: 65.734.0388
Fax: 65.733.5113

GIS Philippines: 3rd Floor Tesoro Bldg.


Amaiz Ave.
Makati City
Philippines

GIS Sri Lanka: Level 6 Valiant Towers #46/7


Nawam Mawatha
Colombo 02
Sri Lanka

GIS Dubai: LOB 20, G-60 Jebel Ali


Free Zone Dubai U.A.E.
Tel: 97.14.814.483
Fax: 97.14.814.788

GIS India: India Liason Office A-8


Kailash Colony
New Delhi 110 048, India
Tel: 91.11.628.0951
Fax: 91.11.628.0978

Contacts
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2000 5
Contacts (con’t)
GIS Istanbul: Akmerkez B-3 Blok Kat 11
Etiler 80600, Istanbul, Turkey
Tel: 90.212.282.0420
Fax: 90.212.282.0417

GIS North Africa: Route De Sousse


Telboulba, ZI 5080 Tunisia

GIS Thailand: Unit 2308 Empire Tower


195 South Sathorn Road
Yannawa, Sathhorn
BKK 10120, Thailand
Tel: 662.6700.168.73
Fax: 662.6700.176

GIS South Africa: Suite 2305-2307, 23rd floor


The Embassy Building
199 Smith Street
Durban 4001, South Africa
Tel: 27.31.335.2500
Fax: 27.31.368.2628

Contacts
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2000 6
I. Factory Visit Procedures
Preparation
Before visiting a factory, a QA representative must carry out the following:

• Verify vendor is on Global Compliance’s approved vendor list.

• Obtain factory contact name, phone number and address.

• Obtain copies of Purchase Orders.

• Secure fabric/yarn color swatches and/or hand and finish standards.

• Obtain the approved sample.

• Obtain manufacturing specifications, including Garment Specification Sheet (GSS).

• Obtain all additional reports relative to production being inspected, such as memos and faxes
as well as product/fabric/component testing reports.

• Obtain approved production schedules.

During initial visit, a QA representative must carry out the following:

• Verify factory owns required machinery for attaching buttons (lock-stitch machines), snaps
(machines and snap supplier is on approved vendor list).

• Verify factory has testing and in-house monitoring systems in place for safety and performance issues.

• Verify factory has needle control procedures in place and maintains a current broken needle log.

Factory Visit Procedures


Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001 7
II. Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.)
What is A.Q.L.?
Acceptable Quality Level is the quality level, which, for purposes of sampling inspection, is the limit of a
satisfactory manufacturing process.

Gap Inc.’s A.Q.L. Standards


Gap Inc.’s A.Q.L. standards when appraising a vendor’s manufacturing process during shipment audits are as follows:

• 0.1 for appraising Critical Visual Defects


• 0.25 for OCR/Ticket Defects
• 4.0 or 2.5 for appraising Major Visual Defects (varies by division)
• 6.5 for appraising Minor Visual Defects
• 6.5 for appraising Major Measurement Defects

(Note: The selection or use of an A.Q.L. does not imply that the
contractor has the right to supply any defective unit of product).

Critical Defects
A Critical Defect is defined as anything potentially harmful to the product user. A Critical Defect can be, but is not limited to,
sharp points/edges, broken needles, loose components or other foreign items which are potentially harmful. Improper or
inaccurate country of origin or fiber, component content markings and CPSC snug fitting sleepwear measurements that are
greater than tolerance are also considered Critical Defects.

Result of Finding A Critical Defect


Visual
If a Critical Visual Defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected.
All Critical Visual Defects must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.

Measurement
Determine if the product is 'Snug Fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the spec (GSS). It will
state here if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. Also, on the measurement page of the GSS,
measurements that are governed by the CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS.

Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.

Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+) side will
be considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is less
than tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors or majors as stated in the measurement
audit procedures. All other measurement points (those not in capital letters) are counted as minors or majors as stated in the
measurement audit procedures section of this manual.

The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1. If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, the
audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the
lot can be submitted for a second audit.

Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.) 8


Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
III. In-Process Inspection
Purpose
The purpose of an In-Process inspection is to check the following: raw materials, marker layout, spreading, cutting, sewing,
wet processing, screen printing, pressing and other embellishments. Sampling plan should not be used at this stage since a lot
size is a bundle. For woven and knit production, the first In-Process inspection begins when knitting/weaving commences.

While inspecting semi-finished goods and batches during work-in-process, records need be kept on defects found for
discussion and communication with the manufacturer/GIS production representatives.

The number of defects found during a cutting, measurement or visual inspection should be noted on the various In-Process
reports. It is not the purpose of the In-Process inspection to try and measure percent defective, but to identify potential
problems. These In-Process reports will be the basis for data collection and evaluation.

In-Process Inspection Forms


At relevant stages of the In-Process Inspection use the following forms:

• In-Process Inspection Report


• In-Process Audit Worksheet
• In-Process Graphics Worksheet (optional)

An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note these forms must be
used as is during the In-Process Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane
Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Cutting Inspection Procedures


The following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process cutting inspection:

• Verify and record fabric test reports.

• After cutting, perform visual and measurement (i.e. top to bottom ply, hard pattern to cut pieces),
inspection of cut parts using the In-Process Visual Inspection Report (use the Fabric/Cutting Checklist
and defective portion).

• Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management.

• If the factory can not correct the problem, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted
for corrective action.

• If questions regarding specifications, fabric/material standard, color, etc. arise, the merchandiser/production
representative should be contacted for corrective action.

In-Process Inspection 9
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures
The following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process inspection:

• All fabric/components/trims/labels should be checked against production approved standards, and must
reflect correct country of origin and fiber/component content. Review and record all required Gap, Inc.
fabric/component/product test reports.

• Verify needle control and safety procedures are being followed.

• Check to be sure that all components/trims/labels are available so production schedules can be met.

• Perform random check in sewing lines/finishing. Verify factory is checking at least six pieces of each
operator’s semi-finished goods to check for workmanship defects. Record finding on the appropriate
In-process inspection report.

• Check hand/color against approved standards. If standards are not available, send the merchandiser/production
representative examples of fabric colors and range of shades.

• Measure placement and size of pattern pieces against specification sheet.

• Check seam construction, thread color and size against specification sheet.

• Check that all small parts are securely attached.

• Record and indicate any problems in the space provided in the In-Process Visual Inspection Worksheet

• Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management.

• If the factory cannot correct the problem, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted
for corrective action.

• If questions regarding construction, measurements, fabric standard, color, etc. arise, the
merchandiser/production representative should be contacted for answers.

• All measurement points listed in the measurement box of the specification sheet are to be measured on at
least one product of each size and color during the In-Process inspection (i.e. on unwashed or rigid garment).
This is to be done using pattern yield measurements, which are to be provided by the Vendor. Any discrepancies
are to be noted on the In-Process Visual Inspection Report and brought to the attention of the Vendor and
merchandiser/production representative.

In-Process Inspection 10
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
In-Process Inspection Procedures (con’t)
• Record the locations of all operations such as knitting, linking and finishing. Also, record the appraisal of the
factory’s capacities. The first In-Process inspection must begin at the knitting stage with photographs taken
of every style during work in progress. Knitting panel inspection must be conducted at the intervals listed
below depending on the size of a program:

a) Up to 5,000 pieces. At least one in-Process audit must be conducted when


the knitting of 20% of the panels completed.
b) 5,001 to 10,000 pieces. At least two In-Process audits must be conducted when
the knitting of 20% and 50% completed.
c) Above 10,000 pieces. At least three In-Process audits must be conducted when
the knitting of 20%, 50%, and 80% completed.

• When products are transferred from one location to another, a visual and measurement inspection report must
be performed using the same criteria as the shipment Inspection procedures. Any discrepancies are to be noted
on the Visual and Measurements Inspection report and brought to the attention of the Vendor and
merchandiser/production representative.

In-Process Inspection 11
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
IV. Shipment Inspection
Purpose
The purpose of a shipment inspection is to determine the quality of an order by its visual appearance, measurement
to specifications and packing execution. The shipment inspection is performed before the finished product is shipped.
This is done in order to minimize the arrival of defective product to Gap Inc. distribution centers, stores or other
designated locations.

Shipment Inspection Forms


At relevant stages of the Shipment Inspection use the following forms.

• Visual Inspection Report


• Box Audit Worksheet (optional)
• Finished Product Measurement Sheet
• Finished Product Measurement Sheet - Tops (optional)
• Finished Product Measurement Sheet – Bottoms (optional)

An example of each form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note, these forms must be
used as is during the Shipment Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact
Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Shipment Inspection Methods


When auditing garments for measurements and visuals, there are two methods that may be used in relation
to the timing of the audit. The method selected is solely at the discretion of the Gap designated personnel
performing the audit. However, the most proactive and preferred method is the non-destructive procedure.

Option 1: During the packing process, this type of audit combines Measurements, Visual, Packaging,
and Packing.

Option 2: A non-destructive audit may be performed for measurements, visuals, and packaging before the
garments are boxed. Packing audits must be performed during the boxing/packing process to verify labels,
assortments, and counts.

Shipment Inspection 12
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Measurement Audit
Measurement Audit Procedures
The following are QA procedures when performing a measurement audit:

• Measurements should be taken on products after wash, after press and sometimes before packing. Major
measurement defects are to be judged using an A.Q.L. of 6.5. Only critical measurement points highlighted
on the specification sheet (*) are taken at the time of the shipment audit. A product with more than one
major measurement defect is counted as a major defect.

• Select samples at random.

• Measure products at critical measurement points which are noted with a (*) on the approved specification sheet.

• Record all measurements taken on the Finished Product Measurement Form.

• Determine the results based on the A.Q.L. 6.5 pass/fail levels for major defects, and the percent defective
for minor defects (Reference Measurement Audit Sampling Plan).

• Put a CIRCLE around minor defects (i.e. measurements which are out of tolerance but do not exceed grade).
Waist measurements on woven bottoms, which are out of tolerance, are to be counted as
major defects. Please check the waist and inseam requirements on the specification sheet
for what constitutes a major defect on every style, as this can vary between styles and fabrics.

• Put a TRIANGLE around major defects (i.e. measurements that are out of tolerance and exceed the grade). If a
measurement point has no grade or if the grade is less than the stated tolerance or measurements that exceed
the tolerance than it will be considered major defects.

• If the total number of circled measurements is less than or equal to the number of minor defects allowed, and
if the total number of triangle measurements is less than or equal to the number of major defects allowed, the
measurement audit passes. Both minor and major measurements must be in the allowed range to pass the
measurement audit.

• If the total number of circled measurements is more than the number of minor defects allowed, the audit
fails.

• If the total number of triangle measurements is more than the number of majors allowed, the audit fails.

“Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit Procedures


The following are QA procedures when performing a measurement audit for “Snug Fitting Sleepwear”:

• Determine if the product is 'Snug Fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the spec (GSS).
It will state here if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. Also, on the measurement
page of the GSS, measurements that are governed by the CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS.

• Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
(Measurement Audit Sampling Plan, page 16)

Shipment Inspection 13
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
“Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit Procedures (con’t)
• Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL LETTERS - that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+)
side will be considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL
LETTERS - that is less than tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors or
majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures. All other measurement points - those not in capital letters -
are counted as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.

• The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1.

• If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to
be inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.

Measurement Audit Sampling Plan


Determine the number of garments to sample, according to the following sampling plan chart:

Measurements
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) 6.5 A.Q.L.

Lot Size –Mixed Color Sample Size Major 6.5


Pass Fail
1 Color 20 3 4
2 Colors 32 5 6
3 Colors 50 7 8
4 Colors 80 10 11
5 Colors 80 10 11
More than (5) Colors 125 14 15

Pass/Fail Levels for Minor Measurement Defects


• For woven and knit items, 10% of measurement points pass if found to be out of tolerance,
but not exceeding the grade (e.g. If there are 9 measurement points on a pant and 32 garments to be
measured, there would be a total of 288 measurement points. That shipment will then pass, if there are
not more than 29 minor defect measurement points (10%) out of the 288 taken out of tolerance).

• For sweater items, 15% of the measurement points will pass if out of tolerance, but not exceeding
grade. Apply the same formula found above.

• If the audit fails, the merchandiser/production representative should be notified for corrective action.

Shipment Inspection 14
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Visual Audit
Visual Audit Methods
There are two methods for auditing visuals. The method selected is solely at the discretion of the Gap Inc.
designated personnel performing the audit:

Option 1: Non-Destructive Visual Audit (audit performed before garments boxed).

Option 2: Visual Auditing begins after boxing/packing process has started.

Visual Audit Forms and Reference Sheets


At relevant stages of the Visual Audit, use the following forms:
• Visual Inspection Report
• Visual Inspection Worksheet (tool to be used for non-destructive audits that occur over an extended
period of time)

At relevant stages of the Visual Audit, reference the Classification of Visual Defects Sheets (Chapter X, Appendix II).

An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. An example of each reference sheet
can found in Chapter XI, Appendix II, of this manual. Please note these forms and sheets must be used as is
during the Visual Audit. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane
at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Visual Audit Sampling Plans


The sampling plans used for both audits are as follows:

Gap, GapKids, babyGap, Old Navy Adults/Kids/Baby and Outlet


First Quality Production
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1)

Shipment Size Garment Visuals Ticket Check


Lot (OCR)
Sample Critical 0.1 Major 4.0 Minor 6.5 Major .25
Size Pass/Fail Pass/Fail Pass/Fail Pass/Fail
0-500 20 0/1 2/3 3/4 0/1
501-1,200 32 0/1 3/4 5/6 0/1
1,201-3,200 50 0/1 5/6 7/8 0/1
3,201-10,000 80 0/1 7/8 10/11 0/1
10,001-35,000 125 0/1 10/11 14/15 1/2
35,001-UP 200 0/1 14/15 21/22 1/2

Shipment Inspection 15
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Visual Audit Sampling Plans (con’t)
Banana Republic and Japan Orders
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1)

Shipment Size Garment Visuals Ticket Check


Lot (OCR)
Sample Critical 0.1 Major 2.5 Minor 6.5 Major .25
Size Pass/Fail Pass/Fail Pass/Fail Pass/Fail
0-500 20 0/1 1/2 3/4 0/1
501-1,200 32 0/1 2/3 5/6 0/1
1,201-3,200 50 0/1 3/4 7/8 0/1
3,201-10,000 80 0/1 5/6 10/11 0/1
10,001-35,000 125 0/1 7/8 14/15 1/2
35,001-UP 200 0/1 10/11 21/22 1/2

Visual Audit Procedures


The following are QA procedures when performing a visual audit:

• Since this type audit may take place over an extended period of time (e.g. more than one day),
the non-destructive visual process is selected and the Visual Inspection Worksheet may be used.

• When the visual audit is performed over more than one day, the results recorded on the Visual Inspection
Worksheet must be reviewed and signed by factory management. The information on this worksheet
must be transferred and attached to the Visual Inspection Report.

• When this visual audit procedure is employed, the Gap representative must insure immediate corrective action
is taken to correct any defects found. This will insure other garments in this audit will not contain the
following defects:

a) Critical visual defects are based on an A.Q.L. of 0.1 for all divisions.
Critical visual defects are defined as defects that may cause bodily injury to the
wearer. One critical defect found during the shipment audit would cause the audit
to fail. All the goods in a fail audit must be re-inspected 100% by factory to remove
all critical defective items prior to been audited again by Gap field auditor or its
appointed agent.

b) OCR/Ticket/Label Check is based on a 0.25 AQL.

c) Major visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 4.0 for Gap Divisions and Old Navy,
2.5 for Banana Republic and product being sold in Japan.

d) Minor visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 6.5 for all divisions.

e) Pass/fail numbers for minor/major defects are to be counted separately.

Shipment Inspection 16
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Visual Audit Procedures (con’t)
f) Any trim that contains an OCR (BARCODE) information must be audited during the Visual
auditing process. This will be a separate audit and results must be posted to the Visual Inspection
Report. When an incorrect OCR trim/label/ticket is detected, the facility must perform an
additional audit of OCR trims to determine the severity of the problem as well as the correction.
This audit will consist of a sample size of 315 pieces. This audit will pass on two (2) incorrect
OCR trims and fail on three (3). The AQL for the OCR trims/label/ticket audit is 0.25. If this
additional audit passes, the entire audit may be passed. However, if this second (additional) audit fails,
the factory must re-inspect 100% of the shipment for incorrect OCR trims. OCR trims are normally
price tickets on knits and woven shirts and matchbooks on woven etc. bottoms. The OCR is the
line that is scanned in the stores that indicates the price and style. This information is vital to insure
that the replenishment of inventory in our Distribution Centers and stores is accurate.

g) While performing the visual audit any defects as follows will be counted as a major defect in the
visual audit:
1) Incorrect size strip (31x31 strip on a 34x31 pair of pants)
2) Incorrect flasher
3) Incorrect (wrong size) of logo label
4) Incorrect non-OCR (BARCODED) price ticket
(These items must correspond to the Bill of Materials
(BOM) on the GSS as to item number and size)
5) Above items are coordinated by size and style

h) The lot size is the total number of units to the shipment. The selection of a random sample
must be conducted according to ratio based on quantity, number of sizes, and various colors
in a program.

i) Sample size will depend on the size of the lot and sampling plan used.

j) More than one major defect per product should only be counted as one major defect.

k) If consistent minor defects occur which affect the overall appearance of the product, the
shipment audit fails. This failure must be brought to the attention of the merchandise/production
representative.

l) Samples are to be taken randomly and must include all sizes.

m) Defective labeling (defined by incorrect country of origin or fiber content) on any


portion of the shipment will result in failure and rejection of the shipment. Refer to
Vendor Handbook for country of origin information.

• If the number of visual defects is equal to or less than the number allowed per the sampling plan, the audit
passes. The defective products found are to be sent back for repair or seconded.

• If the number of visual defects is more than the number allowed, the audit fails. The merchandiser/production
representative is to be notified to determine disposition of the shipment.

• Complete the Visual Inspection Report. Record the fabric/production test reports numbers in the appropriate
area. If not available, fax to production representative and Director of Product Integrity.

Shipment Inspection 17
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Visual Audit Procedures (con’t)
• If the audit fails, record when the re-audit is to take place in the comment column. If re-audit takes place at
that time, use the same procedures as new audit, including packing.

• If shade variations occur within a shipment, the merchandiser/production representative is to be notified and
samples sent to merchandiser/production representative for approval.

• If the merchandiser/production representative requests that the shades be separated the carton shade marks
should be checked during shipment.

• During the shipment audit, packaging and labeling should be checked closely to insure conformance to standards
including proper Country of Origin and fiber content markings.

• When multiple Purchase Orders are ready for shipment, they can be combined and the audit performed on a
sample taken from this combination. If the audit fails, all Purchase Orders fail; if it passes all Purchase Orders
pass.

• It is mandatory to check the weight of each size for the following garments at shipment audit. Sweaters
and fine knit for babyGap (for quota purposes).

Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits


Gap / Old Navy Procedures
Sweaters
Three pieces of the median size (the average of the smallest to the largest in the range) are weighed.
The results are added together, and then divided by three (3). This will determine the average weight
per sweater.

babyGap Fine Knits


Three pieces of every size are weighed and the individual readings are recorded. The results are forwarded
to babyGap merchants to determine quota issues. It is not necessary for QA to comment on whether the
weight meets the required tolerance.

Shipment Inspection 18
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits (con’t)
Banana Republic Procedures
Sweaters
Sweaters of every size in a program must be weighed individually and calculated for average weight based on
the required size ratio in a placement memorandum according to the below listed procedures:

a) Assuming that the required size ratio is 1:2:2:1 (XS/S/M/L).

b) Randomly select four sweaters of every size; weigh them individually and record the results for
the interim audit report.

c) Calculate the average weight of each sweater size by adding the four (4) readings together and dividing
by four (4).

d) Based on the size ratio 1:2:2:1, the average overall weight of a sweater is calculated in the
following manner:

(avg. wt. of sizes “xs” x sz ratio 1) + (avg. wt. of size “s” x sz ratio 2) +
(avg. wt. of size “m” x sz ratio) + (avg. wt. of size “l” x ratio 1) /four (4) =
overall weight of sweater.

Gap Asia Pacific Procedures


Shipment audit will not be carried out on new store orders or shipment quantities of up to 1,000 units or less by color.
Instead it is the responsibility of the Vendor to perform the necessary audit, and insure that the shipped merchandise meets
Gap’s quality standards. QA will issue an “OK to Ship” report using a shipment report form printed with a
“Shippers’ Declaration”.

Seconds & Overruns


Vendors must be reminded that all seconds or overruns sold to anyone other than Gap Inc., must have all Gap Inc.
logos, labels, or other identification removed in accordance to the guidelines outlined in the Vendor Handbook.
After all are removed, then an audit must be scheduled to verify that the removal has been executed correctly.

Shipment Inspection 19
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Pack Audit
Terms to know during the pack audit: “FA” means Factory Audit and “AA” means Audit Assessment. These terms
must be used to differentiate similar terms used in the Distribution Centers.

Pack Audits Procedures


The factory is responsible for the pack audit. The following are procedures for performing a pack audit:

• The pack audit must be performed as a separate audit.

• The pack audit is the responsibility of the facility/vendor.

• Before beginning this assessment, QA personnel must ask the factory/vendor representative
for the results of their audit. When performing this assessment, the Gap Inc. auditor must place a “AA”
on each box in the assessment. This will be placed in the same area as the “FA”. Otherwise, place this in
the upper right hand of the box information label in a 1”x1” space. This “AA” is not to be covered by tape or
labels because it will be used by Distribution Center QA during their pack assessment.

• Gap Inc. QA or those designated by Gap Inc. to perform shipment audits, will be responsible for a 10%
assessment of this factory/vendor audit.

Major Defects for Pack Audits


a) Incorrect quantity
b) Carton labeling errors
c) Incorrect Pre-Pack
• Assortments
• Amounts
• Pre-Pack Stickers
d) Carton not as specified (size and construction)
e) Crushed or damaged cartons
f) Use of wire or metal strapping to strap cartons

• When performing the pack audit, the vendor must place an “FA” on each box audited. This “FA” must be placed
in a one inch by one inch space (1x1) at the top right hand corner of the box information label (the label
containing Purchase Order, style, quantity, etc.). This “FA” must not be covered with tape or other labels.
because it will be used as a guide by Gap Inc. field personnel and Gap Inc. Distribution Centers to verify
audits and assess these cartons.

Shipment Inspection 20
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Pack Audit Procedures (con’t)
• Upon failure of an assessment, the auditor will continue the random sampling, using the Factory Pack Audit
Sample Plan. If the Factory Pack Audit fails, the factory must then take appropriate action to correct the
problems found. Discuss the results with factory representatives. Receive and record the factory action plan to
correct the issues found in the audit. A re-audit will then be performed (not assessment) to verify the packing
errors were corrected. A re-audit will be performed and recorded on a separate Visual Inspection Report. Attach
this re-audit to the original Visual Inspection Report.

• Upon completion of this assessment and/or audit, complete the appropriate section in the Visual Inspection
Report. Record the results of the Audit Assessment (AA) and the results of the Factory Audit (FA).

• If problems found create shipping delays, notify the merchandiser/production representative for corrective action.

• The assessment will be performed on 10% of the number of boxes that are audited by the factory/vendor.
Example: if there are 1005 boxes in the shipment, the factory/vendor will audit 80 boxes. Gap Inc. personnel
would then perform an 8 box assessment (10% of 80 boxes). Again there is a zero tolerance in this assessment.
Any defects will require more action to be taken (i.e. complete audit, re-inspect by factory, etc.) The
assessment may or may not be taken for the same exact boxes on the Factory (FA) Audit. The best practice
would be to pull the sample from both populations (boxes not in FA and boxes in FA).

Pack Audits Sampling Plan


The pack audit sampling plan for the factory/vendor is as follows:

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (2) .65 AQL

Factory Pack Audit Sample Plan


# of cartons Sample Size Pass Fail
5-15 3 0 1
15-50 8 0 1
51-150 20 0 1
151-500 50 1 2
501-1,200 80 1 2
1,201-UP 125 2 3

Shipment Inspection 21
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Programs
Each vendor who participates in Gap, Inc.’s full carton pack program should establish a packing audit system.

Prototype Pack
For each Full Carton/CD Flow Pack purchase order, the Vendor is required to have in their packing
department a prototype packed carton for training. This prototype is to be approved by Gap QA.

Sample Size
The Vendor should determine what quantity of cartons can be packed, and held, before closing the cartons.
This carton quantity becomes the population from which the sample is drawn. The way a sampling plan
works is the larger the population the smaller the sample size is as a percent of the population. To optimize
the inspection time, the maximum quantity of cartons packed and labeled but not closed is desired. Once
that number is determined, the Vendor should choose the sampling size from the pack audit’s sampling plan
(0.65 AQL).

Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Auditing Procedures


The factory is responsible for the full carton pack audit. The following are procedures for performing a full carton
pack audit:

• It is important for the Vendor to keep the population size at a level that takes into consideration the staging
area available as well as the factory’s accuracy history. If an audit does not take place until the population is
large, a great deal of extra handling will take place if it fails. We recommend that in the beginning, a Vendor
that is new to full carton pre-packs choose a small population to audit until history can be developed and
expertise learned.

• A same criterion for major packing errors is to be used as a normal shipment audit; use the same criterion as
listed under Pack Audits. (FA and AA procedures).

• Gap Inc. will perform an assessment after the audit is completed by the factory/vendor.

• Should Vendors allow improperly packaged merchandise to ship, it will be the responsibility of the Vendor
to pay for any special handling required later, in order to correct those errors at Gap Inc.’s Distribution
Centers.

Shipment Inspection 22
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Japanese Purchase Orders Auditing Procedures
All Japanese purchase order shipments are required to be audited against an A.Q.L. level of 2.5 majors and 6.5
minors for final shipment audits.

All goods shipped against Japanese purchase orders are required to go through a second 100% inspection by
the factory after trimming and before packing. This is for the company’s benefit only (not to be considered acceptance
of any goods) and is performed to ensure that the following points are confirmed before shipping:

• Loose threads are properly trimmed and loose buttons attached properly.

• Needle control/metal detector procedures followed.

• No sharp metal points.

• Paper care/content label in Japanese is in the garment and properly placed.

• Leg sticker/matchbook and any trim items are correctly coordinated to size label.

• Price ticket in Yen attached to garment with correct retail price.

• No dirt spots or stains.

• Pressing is to company standards and as specified for product.

Shipment Inspection 23
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Outlet Division Standards
Outlet Audit Forms
At the relevant stage of an Outlet Audit, use the following form:
• Visual Inspection Report
• Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report

An example of the form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. If there are questions or change
requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Outlet Division Auditing Types


All rejected products must first be offered to the Outlet Division. There are three types of audits for Outlet:

Type 1: First quality product sold to or produced for Outlet with Outlet labels. Apply same
methods for audit as any Gap Inc. division. This audit will be recorded on the Visual Inspection
Report.

Type 2: First quality product sold or produced for Outlet with Banana Republic labels and
crossed through with a gold pen. Use the most current Banana Republic A.Q.L. for inspection.
For Gap, GapKids, and babyGap main labels crossed through with gold pen, use the
most current A.Q.L. used by each department for the inspection. This audit will be recorded
on the Visual Inspection Report.

Type 3: Product rejected by merchandising or production and purchased by Outlet. This may
be a complete program or rejected units within a program. This audit is performed to assure
product purchased meets Outlet standards. (i.e. does not contain packing errors or any product
considered as a third). This audit will be recorded on the Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report.

Outlet Division Auditing Procedures


• Packing audits are to be conducted using Level (2) .65 AQL (see Pack Audit, page:).

• Merchandise not gold lined through the labels, as described in the Vendor Handbook, are considered majors.

• Thirds are defined as merchandise that is not wearable or would cause embarrassment to the wearer.

• Complete and submit to Outlet, the Visual Inspection Report and/or the Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report.

Seconds & Overruns


For Outlet internal purposes, we define seconds garments as those that are wearable with unnoticeable flaws.
These defects should not be conspicuous to the average customer.

The Outlet Classification Guide provided below references two types of merchandise: “seconds” and “thirds.”
Outlet is generally interested in first quality or seconds. This defect Guide applies only to Outlet, and does not alter
or change in any way the Company’s quality standards or any Company requirements in the Vendor Handbook.

This in only a reference tool. All seconds, overruns, unused goods or rejected goods of any kind must still be
offered to Outlet regardless of the QA Classification guide below. If you have questions, please contact Outlet.
Note: Outlet will not except any product that has a critical defect; also, vendor must forward to Outlet 3 samples:
2 that reflect the majority of the flaws and 1 that represents the worst case scenario (please indicate accordingly).

Shipment Inspection 24
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Sampling Plan for Rejected Product Purchased by Outlet
ANZI/ASQC Z!.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) 1.5 AQL

Size of Shipment Sample Size Thirds

Pass Fail
0-500 20 1 2
501-1,200 32 1 2
1,201-3,200 50 2 3
3,201-10,000 80 3 4
10,001-35,000 125 5 6

Outlet Defect Classification Guide


DEFECTS CLASS OF GARMENT
SECONDS THIRDS/ NOT
ACCEPTABLE
1. Garments not to color standard X
2. Shading - garment to garment X
3. Slight shading within garments X
4. Measurements out of tolerance(Excluding CPSC requirements X
on children’s sleepwear)
5. Twisting or torquing up to 50% greater than 1st quality X
standard
6. Light fastness greater than 1.5, less than 3.5 X
7. Abrasion greater than standard X on approval
8. Underweight garments X on approval
9. Incorrect "hand" to standard X
10. Noticeable fabric flaws X on approval
11. Sewing flaws resulting in puckering, broken stitches, needle X
cuts, needle chews and needle holes
12. Stained or soiled garments that are not cleanable X
13. Repairs of sewing and finishing defects X
14. Screen printing not as specified X
15. Mismatched parts or plaids not as specified X
16. Light fastness less than or equal to 1.5 X
17. Holes X
18. Crocking below standard X
19. Product with Critical defects X
20. Non-repairable sewing defects X
21. Rags - incomplete garments X
22. Non-repairable hardware defects, e.g. snaps, zippers, etc. X
23. Screen printing - poor resolution or not aligned X

Shipment Inspection 25
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
X. Safety Procedures
It is mandatory that all raw materials, trim components, and actual production garments be evaluated by a
Gap, Inc. approved testing laboratory. For specific information regarding Gapkids and babyGap, refer to Gap Inc.’s
Product Safety Standards and Procedures Manual for Infants and Children.

The following are QA procedures when performing a Safety audit:

• Check factory Needle Control Procedure Log; sign and date log. Ask factory management and
operators to explain needle control procedures. Make sure log is filled out properly and is up to date.
Take a photocopy of the latest entry page; attach to your report.

• Check needle detector if factory has one. Check date of machine’s last service and calibration. Test machine
and it’s sensitivity adjustment. Perform test with 1.2mm sphere test card. Review occurrence log for
needles that have been detected.

• Check for lock-stitch button machines. If there are none, report to merchant as soon as possible. Advise
operable factory that lock-stitch button machines are required. If they have lock-stitch, verify they have
enough machines to handle production requirements, using the Pull Test.

• Check snap equipment and parts to make sure they are on the approved list of suppliers. Make sure
pneumatic and electric press equipment is made by an approved snap vendor. Make sure dies match snaps
and that prongs on snaps are long enough to properly mate and secure the snap, using the Pull Test.
Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP for further instruction.

• Hand/foot press or flywheel equipment is not allowed. Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP for
further instruction.

Safety Procedures 26
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
VI. Broken Needle Standards
Broken Needle Forms
At relevant stages of the Broken Needle Inspection, use the following form.

• Broken Needle Log

An example of the form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note that this form must be used
during the Broken Needle Inspection. If need be, additional columns can be added to the forms for documenting
information, but existing columns/formatting can not be removed from this form. If there are questions or change
requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Broken Needle Procedures


The following are Needle procedures for vendors when manufacturing garment:

• Operators should not possess any spare needles.

• Replacement needles should be stored in a locked closet.

• Worn needles should be disposed of in a sealed container.

• When needles break, every effort must be made to locate all fragments.

• If all fragments cannot be found, component or garment must be destroyed.

• Breakage must be recorded in the broken needle log.

• Broken or used needles should not be around machines or on factory floor.

• Pins, staples, wire or metal clips should not be used in the bundling, sewing
or laundry process.

Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures


This is a clearly defined method to verify that factories are following needle control procedures. All QA representatives
who conduct in-factory audits on Gap Inc.’s behalf such as Gap Inc.’s sourcing channels/agents/QA staff are responsible
for this task.

The inspection steps outlined in these procedures will allow you to quickly determine if factories are correctly following our
needle control procedures:

• Before you start to do In-Process audits, you should walk through the production lines to verify
needle control procedures.

• Ask a few operators, at random, to explain what they do if a needle breaks. Proceed to do audit, if
they detail the correct procedure. If they are not following the correct procedure, discuss your
findings with the factory manager.

Broken Needle Standards 27


Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures (con’t)
• Search the floor for used or broken needle parts. Pick up and save any you find to discuss with
factory management.

• Check around a few operators’ machines for spare or broken needles. Lift the machine head to see
if used or broken needles are present in the oil pan. Collect and save needles to discuss with factory
management.

• Check the broken needle log for accuracy. Sign and date the log if it is in order. Make sure all
broken parts have been found and are taped to the log for each entry. If only part of the broken
needle is attached to log, further investigation is required.

• Vendors who have needle detection equipment must verify the calibration and accuracy o the
machine once per hour. This can be done with a 1.2mm check card. A log should be kept to record
any broken needles or other metal products found.

• OSHA requires that contaminated needles, those that may or may not be broken but have
punctured human skin, must be disposed of in a blood borne pathogen container.

Broken Needle Standards 28


Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
VII. Country of Origin
Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook

Country of Origin 29
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
VIII. Carton/Prepack
For carton sizes, specifications, labelling and pre-pack definitions refer
to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook

Carton/Prepack 30
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
IX. Appendix I (General Forms)
Summary of Quality Assurance general forms used during
various inspection points, as explained in this manual:
In-Process Inspection Report
Visual Inspection Worksheet
In-Process Audit Worksheet
In-Process Graphics Visual Audit Report
Visual Inspection Report
Finished Product Measurement Sheet
Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Tops)
Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Bottoms)
Outlet Inspection Report
Broken Needle Log
Box Audit Worksheet

Appendix I AI-1
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING (________________OFFICE

IN-PROCESS INSPECTION REPORT RANDOM/UNANNOUNCED


IN LINE (SCHEDUALED)

STYLE NO.______________________ CONTRACT SHIPMENT DATE_______________INSPECTION DATE:_________


P.O. NO. ______________________ ANTICIPATED SHIPMENT DATE_____________ INSPECTION LOCATION_____
______________________ ORDER QUANTITY_____________________ VENDOR:__________________
DEPT.:_________________________ COLOR:______________________________ FACTORY:_________________
FABRIC TEST # __________________ FACTORY CODE____________
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:________________________________________ AUDITOR:__________________

PLANNED PRODUCTION ARRANGEMENT (COMPLETE AT "IN-LINE ONE" ONLY EXCEPT FOR CHANGES TO PLAN
SAME AS IN-LINE
FACTORY COUNTRY LOCATIO ONE
FABRIC/KNIT PANEL YES NO
CUTTING YES NO
MINOR SEWING YES NO
MAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPIN YES NO
FINISHING YES NO
MANFACTORING PROCESS CONFERRING COUNTRY OF ORIGIN

ACTUAL PRODUCTION STATUS: FABRIC(EG. BLANKETS KTS. PANEL ASSEMBLY


STATUS
CUTTING/KNITTING
MINOR SEWING
MAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPIN
FINISHING
PACKING
LINKING/LOOPING/
FABRIC CUTTING SEWING FINISHING MENDING SAFETY CHECK

SHADING THREAD WASHING IRONING/SHAPE SEAM/ LK/ LP NEEDLE CONTRO

STRIPE MATCH SEAM CLR FASTNES OTHERS KNITTING LOCKSTITCH BUT

CUTTING REPORTS STITCH CLEANING MEND PULL TESTING

PATTERN SHAPES/SYMMETR PRESSING BTN/ HOLES NECK STRETRCH GA

MARKER BUTTON HOLES FOLDING BARTAKING NEEDLE DETECT

PLY MATCHING POCKETING TICKETING OTHER SNAP MACHINE

LABEL POSITION HANGTAGS SNAP TEST


OTHER HEMMING POLYBAG

BARTACKING CARTON

LINING MARKINGS

SPECS PACKING

A = ACCEPTABLE U = UNACCEPTABLE N/A = NOT APPLICABLE


I CONFIRM ACCURACY OF ALL INFORMATION ABOVE CONFIRMED & SIGNED BY VENDOR / FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE
AND AGREE TO MAKE CORRECTIONS AS PER ABOVE __________________________ _____________________________
COMMENTS IMMEDIATELY SIGNATURE DATE
__________________________ _____________________________
AUDITOR INITIALS / DATE Q.A. MANAGER INITIALS / DATE

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-2
7+(*$3,1& Visual Inspection Worksheet
Pass/Fail

Majors
Purchase Orders
Ship Quantity Sample Size
Minors

*OCR Ticket Check Based on .25 AQL

Total Inspected
Qty. Inspected Qty. Inspected Qty. Inspected Qty. Inspected Qty. Inspected

Date Date Date Date Date

Visauls OCR OCR OCR OCR OCR

Type of Defect Critical Major Minor Check Critical Major Minor Check Critical Major Minor Check Critical Major Minor Check Critical Major Minor Check

Total Defects

Sub-
total

Style Number

Color
OCR

Majors
Minors

Critical

Factory Representative

Comments:

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-3
IN PROCESS AUDIT WORKSHEET

VENDOR _______________ MFG. PLANT_______________ DIVISION_________________DATE ___________________


LINE No. _______________ STYLE ___________________ PATTERN ________________AUDITOR _________________

Thread/ No. No.


OPERATION Gauge S.P.I. Measure Tension Margin operator Units Defects Comments

GENERAL COMMENTS

Q.A. SIGNATURE (DATE)_____________________ LINE SUPERVISOR________________________ PLANT MANAGER______________

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-4
IN PROCESS GRAPHICS VISUAL AUDIT REPORT
FAX WEEKLY TO: _________________ VENDOR: _________________
FAX NUMBER: _________________ SUBCONTRACTOR: _________________
FROM: _________________ WEEK OF: _________________
P.O. NUMBER(if available) _________________

INSTRUCTIONS: Use separate sheet for each vendor or subcontractor

Placement Placement
Date and Style Press Print/Other Total Units Total Units Problems Found/
Time Number ID Registration Color Vertical Tol. Actual Horizontal Tol. Actual Inspected Defective Name Corrective Action

Percent defective (divide total units defective by total units inspected): Vertical Placement: _________
Horizontal Placement: _________

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-5
GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING

( OFFICE)
VISUAL INSPECTION REPORT SHIPMENT
REAUDIT

VENDOR__________________ ORDER QTY.__________________INSPECTION DATE_________


DIVISION_________________ VENDOR STYLE#______________ AUDITOR_________________
CONT. SHIP DATE__________ FIRST COSTS$________________ INSPECTION LOCATION_____
COLOR___________________ FACTORY_________________
DESCRIPTION_____________________________________________ FACTORY CODE___________

DC P.O. # GAP STYLE# SHIP QTY DC P.O. # GAP STYLE# SHIP QTY

______________________ ________________________
AUDITOR (DATE) Q.A. MANAGER (DATE)
______________________ _______________________
MERCHANDISER (DATE) MERCHANDISING MG (DATE)

Merchandising Team Comments: ________________________


___________________________________________________
___________________________________________________
___________________________________________________

AUDIT PASSED AUDIT FAILED


INSP. QTY. _________________________________________

DEFECTIVE QTY: CRITICAL MAJOR MINOR

ACCEPT QTY: CRITICAL MAJOR MINOR

OCR TICKET/LABEL CHECK PASS FAIL

SUMMARY: ______________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
COMMENTS: _____________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________

CONFIRMED & SIGNED BY:


(FACTORY REP)

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-6
GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING

NO. VISUAL DEFECT CRITICAL MAJOR MINOR

TOTAL

PACK ACCURACY CHECK


CTN. INSP. Defective QTY
CTN. Ship

Packing Defects ___________________________________________________________________


__________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________

TEST REPORT# WT. PER DOZ. SPEC. ACTUAL


PULL TEST# _________
GARMENT TEST# _________
FABRIC TEST# _________

THE ABOVE AUDIT IS A RANDOM REPRESENTATIVE SAMPLING OF THE WHOLE LOT ONLY.
ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC.

MERCHANDISING

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-7
FINISHED PRODUCT MEASUREMENT SHEET DATE: VENDOR Q.A. SIGNATURE

PM / PO# CONFIRMED AND


SIGNED BY:
INTERIM SHIPMENT VENDOR STYLE #

SAMPLE SIZE 1ST. SAMPLE SIZE GAP STYLE #


( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE )
PATTERN # 2ND SAMPLE SIZE COLOR:

PARTICULARS TOL SPEC SPEC SPEC SPEC MINOR MAJOR

PAGE

MINOR UNIT DEFECT CALC: X = X .10 %= TOTAL

PREV

AUDIT PASSED PASS< FAIL > ACTUAL MINORS PG. TOTAL

MINOR AUDIT = AUDIT = PERCENT MINORS % TOT 2ND

AUDIT FAILED AUDIT

PASS< FAIL > ACTUAL MAJORS GRAND

2ND SAMPLE AUDIT MAJOR AUDIT = AUDIT = PERCENT MAJORS % TOTAL

ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC’S SPECIFIED DESTINATIONS

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-8
FINISHED PRODUCT MEASUREMENT SHEET DATE: VENDOR Q.A. SIGNATURE

( TOPS ) PM / PO# CONFIRMED AND


SIGNED BY:
INTERIM SHIPMENT VENDOR STYLE #

SAMPLE SIZE 1ST. SAMPLE SIZE GAP STYLE #


( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE )
PATTERN # 2ND SAMPLE SIZE COLOR:

PARTICULARS TOL SPEC SPEC SPEC SPEC MINOR MAJOR


NECK OPENING

NECK WIDTH

NECK DROP

CHEST

WAIST

BOTTOM

SHOULDER

SLEEVE LENGTH

ARMHOLE

BICEP

SLEEVE WIDTH

CUFF OPENING

CF LENGTH

CB / BODY LENGTH

MINOR UNIT DEFECT CALC: X = X .10 %= TOTAL

PREV

AUDIT PASSED PASS < FAIL > ACTUAL MINORS PG. TOTAL

MINOR AUDIT = AUDIT = PERCENT MINORS % TOT 2ND

AUDIT FAILED AUDIT

PASS < FAIL > ACTUAL MAJORS GRAND

2ND SAMPLE AUDIT MAJOR AUDIT = AUDIT = PERCENT MAJORS % TOTAL

ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC’S SRECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-9
FINISHED PRODUCT MEASUREMENT SHEET DATE: VENDOR Q.A. SIGNATURE

{ BOTTOMS } PM / PO# CONFIRMED AND


SIGNED BY:
INTERIM SHIPMENT VENDOR STYLE #

SAMPLE SIZE 1ST. SAMPLE SIZE GAP STYLE #


( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE )
PATTERN # 2ND SAMPLE SIZE COLOR:

PARTICULARS TOL SPEC SPEC SPEC SPEC MINOR MAJOR


WAIST ( TOP )

WAIST ( BOTTOM )

SEAT ( BELOW WB )

FRONT RISE

BACK RISE

FLY OPENING

THIGH

KNEE

BOTTOM

INSEAM

PAGE

MINOR UNIT DEFECT CALC: X = X .10 %= TOTAL

PREV

AUDIT PASSED PASS < FAIL > ACTUAL MINORS PG. TOTAL

MINOR AUDIT = AUDIT = PERCENT MINORS % TOT 2ND

AUDIT FAILED AUDIT

PASS < FAIL > ACTUAL MAJORS GRAND

2ND SAMPLE AUDIT MAJOR AUDIT = AUDIT = PERCENT MAJORS % TOTAL

ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC’S SPECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-10
GAP INC.
Outlet Factory Outlet
INSPECTION REPORT SHIPMENT
DATE

GFO STYLE# VENDOR/MAKER: ADDRESS:


PREPACK# QTY ORDERED: DEPT:
PO# QTY TO BE SHIPPED: AUDITOR:
GFO RETAIL PRICE ON TICKET: UNITS PER CARTON: COLOR:
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: TOTAL CARTONS: DESCRIPTION:

No. Defectives Thirds

TOTALS
ACCEPT REJECT
ACCEPT/REJECT RANGE
AUDIT PASSED AUDIT FAILED % Verify the following informtion and check
1st sample block to the right.
INSPECTED QTY. 1. All garments lined through with gold marker.
DEFECTIVE QTY. THIRDS % 2. All garments are to be ticketed correctly.
2nd sample 3. Fit / Size strips placed on all denim and twill pants
INSPECTED QTY. 4. Prepack definitions are correct.
DEFECTIVE QTY. THIRDS % 5. Correct number of units are packed per carton.
Cumulative Sample 6. Verify all carton label information is correct.
INSPECTED QTY.
DEFECTIVE QTY. THIRDS % Packing Defectives
Type of Defect Qty. Found
DEFECTIVE % THIRDS %
SUMMARY:

COMMENTS: Sample Size:


Audit Passed:
Audit Failed:
MERCHANDISING TEAM COMMENTS:
CONFIRMED AND SIGNED BY:
FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE:

QA SIGNATURE (DATE) MERCHANDISER (DATE) MERCHANDISER (DATE)


DIR. OF PRODUCTION
The audit above is a random representative sampling of the whole lot only.
ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC.’S
SPECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS (QA MANUAL 02/01

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-11
BROKEN NEEDLE LOG
FACTORY: _________________________ COUNTRY: __________________________ CONTACT: _____________________

GAP
DATE /TIME OPERATOR MACHINE # PRODUCT GAP INC. SUPERVISOR TAPED NEEDLE PARTS AUDITOR DATE
OF BREAK NAME STYLE DIVISION CHECK CHECKED

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-12
GAP BOX AUDIT WORKSHEET

DATE: QA SIGNATURE
PM/PO# CONFIRMED AND
VENDOR: SIGNED BY:
TOTAL CARTONS IN SHIPMENT: MAKER:
AUDIT QUANTITY:
100% INSPECT QUANTITY: GAP STYLE#
DESCRIPTION: (FACTORY REPRESENTATION)
COLOR:

Pack Size Ratio UNITS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Pack Size Ratio UNITS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

PASS / FAIL QTY. _______________


AUDIT PASSED TOTAL MAJORS FOUND _______________

AUDIT FAILED
PARTICULARS:

1. Incorrect quantity 3. Carton Labeling errors or not readable 5. Carton not as specified 7. Use of wire or metal
2. Incorrect price tickets 4. Incorrect pre-pack 6. Crushed or damaged cartons strapping to strap cartons

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-13
X. Appendix II (Classification of Visual Defects)
The following details by product type major, minor and critical defects.

Note: Critical defects are listed within product type classification. Critical defects are anything
which can harm the user of the product. The following are some examples of critical
defects but are not limited to this list:

1) Loose components, i.e. buttons, snaps, stones or other miscellaneous parts;


2) Sharp edges, i.e. broken needles, staples, snaps, rivets, wire and pins;
3) Drawstrings at head or neck for baby or kids products; and
4) Threads or trim which are excessively long or loose which could present a
choking hazard to a baby or child if they become entangled.

Any critical defect found during an audit fails that audit and requires the factory to
re-inspect 100% of the product. Once all critical defects are removed, the order
must be audited by a Gap Inc. auditor or their designated representative.

Appendix II AII-1
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Defects Woven and Knit
Dresses/Jumpsuits
Coats/Jackets

A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak Major Major 16.Mismatch Pockets,4-Way
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Plaid Match Over 1/16" Major -
3.Shaded Parts Major Major 17.Uneven Collar Points
4.Obvious Foreign or Color Over 1/8" Major -
Yarn Major Major 18.Collar Overlap When
5.Not Obvious Foreign or Buttoned Major -
Color Yarn Major Minor 19.Incorrrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
6.Poor Matching of Color or 20.Buttonholes Nonreplaceable,
Print Patterns Major Major Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches
7.Texture Change Major Major 21.Incorrect Button Major Major
8.Bleach Spot Not as Specified Major Major 22.Missing Button Major Major
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major 23.Button Offline on Top Center
1/8" Tolerance Major -
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) 24.Button, 2-Eye Sewn in
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 4-Hole or Upside Down Major Major
1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/4" 25.Sewn in Pleats Major Major
Clearly Contrasted Dye Smear Major Major 26.Uneven Pleating Shirring
2.Slubs and Misweaves Over 1/4" Major Major or Poor Sewn Pleat Major Major
3.Holes of any Size Repaired 27.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
or Not, Needle Cut, Tear Major Major up to 1/8" Major Minor
4.Fabric Not as Specified Major Major 28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
5.Barre, Bend Needle Slubs Up Over 1/8" Major Major
to Size of Loop Major Minor 29.Improper Interlining, Exces-
6.Improper Repair Major Minor sive Fullness of Parts Major Major
7.Any Pattern Errors Major Major 30.Interlining Twisted or
Garment Part Twisted Major Major
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) 31.Needle Chews up to 1
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Per Inch Major Major
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" Major Minor 32.Incorrect Thread or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major Major Accessories Major Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 33.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
Any Stitch Type Major Major Ticket Placement Major Major
4.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 34.Uneven Hip Pocket Placement
5.Stitching Margin Variation Over 1/8" Major -
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Minor 35.Lips or Crease on Front Pkt Major -
6.Stitching Margin Variation 36.Exposed White Pocket Bag
Over 1/8" Major Major up to 1/8" Major -
7.Any Exposed Stitch or Under 37.Malfunctioning, Wavy or
Part Major Major Incorrect Zipper Major Major
8.Blind Stitch Bite Too Deep - Major 38.Uneven Yoke Seam up to 1/8" Major -
9.Stitch Count Variation Over 39.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8" Major -
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major 40.Fell Seams Not Even at Join
10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major Major Crotch More Than Width
11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose of Stitch Major Major
Seam or Fraying Major Major 41.Uneven Pleating in Seam,
12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8" Major Major Shirring or Poorly Sewn Major Major
13.Incorrect Placket Width 42.Uneven or Incorrectly Placed
+ or -1/8" Major - Darts Over 1/8" Major Major
14.Incorrect Placket Width 43.High Low Band Over 1/8" Major -
Over 1/8" Major Major 44.Uneven Band Over 1/8" Major -
15.High-Low Pockets (Two 45.Uneven Belt Loop Placement
Pocket Shirt) or Pocket Over 1/8" Major -
Flaps + or - 1/8" Major -

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-2
Classification of Visual
Defects Woven and Knit
Dresses/Jumpsuits
Coats/Jackets

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
46.Slanting Belt Loops More 1.Attached Sewing Threads
Than 1/8" Out of Vertical up to 1/4" Major Minor
or Missing Major - 2.Attached Sewing Threads
47.Uneven Hem Over 1/8" Each Over 1/4" Major Major
Side - Major 3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
48.Severe Puckering and Badly Inside of Garment Major Minor
Roped Hem Major Major 4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread Major Major
49.Incorrect Bartack Placement 5.Stain,Soil Under1/8" Major Minor
or Missing Bartack Major Major 6.Stain,Soil Over 1/8" Major Minor
50.Misplaced Buttonhole or 7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Hook and Eye Over 1/8" Major Major Rubbed Spots Major Major
51.Misplaced Button Over 1/8" 8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
or Missing Button Major Major Visible Major Major
52.Misplaced Rivet Over 1/8" 9.Component Parts Not
or Missing Rivet Major Major Securely Tacked Major Major
53.Crows Feet Major - 10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
54. Sharp Points/ Edges on Garments Major Major
Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical 11.Pile Direction Not as
Specified Major Major
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone) 12.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Ticket Placement Major Major
1.Permanent Crease Major Major 13.Attached Sewing Threads at
2.Poorly Pressed Major Minor Collar Area Over 1/8" Major -
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, 14.Improper Tidy or Fraying
Pressure Marks Major Major of Band Finish Major -
15.Incorrect Folding Major Major
16.Twisted Legs Over 1" Major Major
***babyGap / GapKids***
17. Loose Components Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
18. Stones in Garments Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
19. Drawstrings at Head & Neck Critical Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-3
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven & Knits
Dresses / Jumpsuits / Coats / Jumpers

Appendix II AII-4
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven & Knits
Dresses / Jumpsuits / Coats / Jumpers

Appendix II AII-5
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Classification of Visual
Defects KnitTops
and Activewear

A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Defects by Zone)


DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 18.Collar Overlap
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major 19.Uneven Hip Pkt Placement
3.Shaded Parts Major Major Over 1/8" Major -
4.Obvious Foreign or Color 20.Lips or Creases on Pocket Major -
Yarn Major Major 21.Exposed White Pocket Bag Major -
5.Not Obvious Foreign or 22.Not Mitred Inner Fly Major -
Color Yarn Major Minor 23.Zippers, Incorrect Size/Color
6.Poor Matching of Color or Malfunctioning, Improper Set Major Major
Print Patterns Major Major 24.Uneven Yoke Seam Under 1/8" Minor -
7.Texture Change Major Major 25.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8" Major -
8.Shading Between Garments Major Major 26.Misaligned Fell Seams Over
Width of Topstitch Major Major
27.Uneven,Pleating, Shirring
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) or Poorly Sewn Seams Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 28.Pleats in Seam Major Major
1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/8" Major Minor 29.Mismatch Plaids or Stripes
2.Holes of Any Size Repaired up to 1/8" Major Major
or Not Major Major 30.Mismatch Plaids or Stripes
3.Standards Wt/Dz Exceeds Tolerance Majors - Over 1/8" Major Major
4.Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken 31.Uneven or Misplaced Darts
Stitch, End Down, Run Barr, Over 1/8" Major -
Bent Needle, Needle Line Major Major 32. High/Low Waistband > 1/8" Major -
5.Dye Discoloration Streaks 33. Uneven Waistband > 1/8" Major -
Blotches, Print Out of 34. Uneven Belt Loop Placement > 1/8" Major -
Register Major Major 35. Beltloop Missing or Slanting Major -
6.Bow or Bias Fabric Over 1" > 1/8"
Side to Side Major Major 36. Uneven Hem > 1/2" Each Side Major
37.Incorrect or Missing Bartack Major Major
C. Sewing (Defects by Zone) 38.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 39.Incorrect Button Major Major
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" Major Minor 40.Buttonholes Broken or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major Major Unrepairable Threads Major Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 41.Misplaced Button, Buttonhole
Any Stitch Type Major Major or Hook And Eye Over 1/8" Major Major
4.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 42.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two
5.Any Exposed Stitch or Under Holes or Upside Down Major Major
Part Major Major 43.Missing Button Major Major
6.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major 44.Missing or Misplaced Rivet
7.Stitching Margin Variation Over 1/8" Major Major
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Minor 45.Severe Puckering and Badly
8.Stitching Margin Over 1/8" Major Major Roped Hems Major Major
9.Stitchcount Variation Over 46.Improper Interlining, Excess-
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major ive Fullness of Parts Major Major
10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major Major 47.Interlining or Garment Part
11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose Twisted Major Major
Seam or Fraying Major Major 48.Crow Feet Major Major
12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8" Major Major 49.Needle Chews up to 1 Per Inch Major Minor
13.Incorrect Placket Width 50.Insecure Setting of
up to 1/8" Major Major Component Part Major Major
14.Incorrect Placket Width 51.Incorrect Thread or
Over 1/8" Major Major Accessories Major Major
15.High/Low Pkts of Pkt Flaps 52.Misaligned Inserts,Gussets
1/8" or More Major Major Over 1/4" Major Major
16.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way 53. Sharp Points/Edges on
Plaid Match Over 1/8" Major Major Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
17.Uneven Collar Points
Over 1/8" Major -

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-6
Classification of Visual
Defects Knit Tops
and Activewear

D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Poor Press Major Minor
2.Permanent Crease Major Major
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Pressure Marks Major Major

E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Attached Threads up to 1/4" Major Minor
2.Attached Threads Over 1/4" Major Major
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside of Garment Major Major
4.Sewn in Waste or Thread on
Outside Major Major
5.Stail,Soil Oil to 1/8" Major Major
6.Ring From Cleaning Gun
or Rub Spots Over 1/4" Major Major
7.Improper Tidy or Fraying of
Band Finish Major -
8.Visible Drill Hole or Notches
or Pencil Mark Major Major
9.Needle Chews or Feed-Dog
Abrasion Frays Major Major
10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments Major Major
11.Twisted Legs Over 1" Major Major
12.Nap Up/Down, Shaded Parts Major Major
13.Pile Direction Not as
Specified Major Major
14.Insecure Setting of Part Major Major
15.Incorrect Trim Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major
16.Missing or Incorrect Labels Major -
17.Incorrect Folding Major Major
18.Asymetric Garment More
Than 1" Major Major
19.Uneven Elastification(Pant) Major Major
***babyGap / GapKids***
20. Loose Components Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
21. Stones in Garments Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
22. Drawstrings at Head & Neck Critical Critical
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-7
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Knit Tops & Activewear

Appendix II AII-8
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Knit Bottoms

Appendix II AII-9
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Shirts

A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 20.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major 21.Buttonholes Nonrepairable,
3.Shaded Parts Major Major Anchored Threads or Broken
4.Obvious Foreign or Color Stitches Major Major
Yarn Major Major 22.Incorrect Button Major Major
5.Poor Matching of Color or 23.Missing Button Major Major
Print Patterns Major Major 24.Buttons Out of Line on Top
6.Texture Change Major Major Center 1/8" Tolerance Major -
7.Bleach Spot Major Major 25.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two
8. Shading Between Garments Eyes or Upside Down Major Major
Major Major 26.Sewn in Pleats on Outside Major Major
27.Uneven Pleating Shirring
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) or Poor Sewn Pleat Major Minor
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes Up
1.Misweaves up to 1/4" Major Minor to 1/8" Major Minor
2.Misweaves Over 1/4" Major Major 29.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
3.Holes of any Size Repaired Over 1/8" Major Major
or Not Major Major 30.Improper Interlining ,Exces-
4.Fabric Not as Specified Major Major sive Fullness of Parts Major Minor
5.Non-Characteristic Slubs Major Minor 31.Interlining Twisted or
Garment Part Twisted Major Major
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) 32.Needle Chews up to 1
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Per Inch Major Minor
1.Run Off Stitches Up to 1/8" Major Minor 33.Incorrect Thread or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major Major Accessories Major Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 34.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
a Chain Stitch Major Major Ticket Placement Major Major
4.. More Than 1 Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch Major Major 35. Sharp Points/Edges on
5. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
6.Stitching Margin Variation
Needle to Edge Over 1/16" Major Minor D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
7.Stitching Margin Over 1/16" Major Minor DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
8.Any Exposed Stitch or Under 1.Permanent Crease Major Major
Part Major Major 2.Pressing Not as Specified Major Major
9.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
10.Stitchcount Variation Over Pressure Marks Major Major
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major
11.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major
12.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying Major Major
13.Uneven Front Placket
>1/8" at Bottom Major -
14.Incorrect Placket Width
1/8" or Less Major Minor
15.Incorrect Placket Width
Over 1/8" Major Major
16.Uneven High-Low Pockets(2
Pocket Shirt) or Pocket Flaps
More Than 1/4" in Relation
to Each Other Major Major
17.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way
Plaid Match Over 1/8" Major -
18.Uneven Collar Points
Over 1/8" Major -
19.Collar Overlap When
Buttoned Major -

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-10
Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Shirts

E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Attached Sewing Threads
up to 1/4" Minor Minor
2.Attached Sewing Threads
Over 1/4" Major Major
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside Garment Major Minor
4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread Major Major
5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8" Major Minor
6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8" Major Major
7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Rubbed Spots Major Major
8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
Visible Major Major
9.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion Major Major
10.Component Parts Not
Securely Tacked Major Major
11.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments Major Major
12.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major
***babyGap / GapKids***
13. Loose Components Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
14. Stones in Garments Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
15. Drawstrings at Head & Neck Critical Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-11
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven Shirts

Appendix II AII-12
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Shirts

A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Bleach Streaks Major Major 21.Buttonholes Nonrepairable,
2.Dirt Spots Major Major Anchored Threads or Broken
3.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Stitches Major Major
4.Shaded Parts Major Major 22.Incorrect Button Major Major
5.Poor Matching of Color or 23.Missing Button Major Major
Print Patterns Major Major 24.Buttons Out of Line on Top
6.Texture Change Major Major Center 1/8" Tolerance Major -
7.Bleach Spot Major Major 25.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two
8.Stone Bruises Major Minor Eyes or Upside Down Major Major
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major 26.Sewn in Pleats on Outside Major Major
27.Uneven Pleating Shirring
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) or Poorly Sewn Pleat Major Minor
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes up
1.Misweaves up to 1/4" Major Minor to 1/8" Major Minor
2.Misweaves Over 1/4" Major Major 29.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired Over 1/8" Major Major
or Not Major Major 30.Improper Interlining, Exces-
4.Fabric Not as Specified Major Major sive Fullness of Parts Major Minor
5.Non-Characteristic Slubs Major Minor 31.Interlining Twisted or
Garment Part Twisted Major Major
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) 32.Needle Chews up to 1
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Per Inch Major Minor
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" Major Minor 33.Incorrect Thread or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major Major Accessories Major Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 34.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
a Chain Stitch Major Major Ticket Placement Major Major
4.More Than One Skip Stitch on 35. Sharp Points/Edges on
a Lock Stitch Major Major Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
5. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major
6. Stitching Margin Variation Needle D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
to Edge > 1/16" Major Minor DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
7.Stitching Margin Over 1/16" Major Minor 1.Permanent Crease Major Major
8.Any Exposed Stitch or Under 2.Pressing Not as Specified Major Major
Part Major Major 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
9.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major Pressure Marks Major Major
10.Stitch Count Variation Over
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major
11.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major
12.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying Major Major
13.Uneven Front Placket
>1/8" at Bottom Major -
14.Incorrect Placket Width
1/8" or Less Major Minor
15.Incorrect Placket Width
Over 1/8" Major Major
16.Uneven High-Low Pockets(2
Pocket Shirt) or Pocket Flaps
More Than 1/4" in Relation
to Each Other Major Major
17.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way
Plaid Match Over 1/8" Major -
18.Uneven Collar Points
Over 1/8" Major -
19.Collar Overlap When
Buttoned Major -
20.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-13
Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Shirts

E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Attached Sewing Threads
up to 1/4" Minor Minor
2.Attached Sewing Threads
Over 1/4" Major Major
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside Garment Major Minor
4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread Major Major
5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8" Major Minor
6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8" Major Major
7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Rubbed Spots Major Major
8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
Visable Major Major
9.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion Major Major
10.Component Parts Not
Securely Tacked Major Major
11.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments Major Major
12.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced
Label,Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major
***babyGap / GapKids***
13. Loose Components Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
14. Stones in Garments Critical Critical

Appendix II AII-14
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Denim Shirts

Appendix II AII-15
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Classification Of
Visual Defects
Sweaters

A. Appearance and Color (Defects by Zone) D. Pressing (Defects by Zone)


DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Unevenq Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 1.Permanent Crease Major Major
2.Dye Misprint, Dye Smear Major Major 2.Poorly Pressed or
3.Shaded Parts Major Major Excessively Creased Major Minor
4.Poor Match of Color Major Major 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
5.Light Soil, Foreign Yarn, Pressure Marks Major Major
Visible Oil, Stains Major Major
6.Texture Changed Major Major E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
7.Obvious Foreign or Colored DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
Yarn Major Major 1.Attached Linking Threads
8.Not Obvious Foreign or Over 1/4" Major Major
Colored Yarn Major Minor 2.Attached Threads Over 2"
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major Inside of Garment Major -
3.Knot Yarn Ends up to 1/4" Major Minor
B. Knitting Components (Defects by Zone) 4.Knot Yarn Ends Over 1/4" Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 5.Pull Loop Snags Major Major
1.Slubs and Misweaves Major Major 6.Stain Soil Under 1/8" Major Minor
2.Slubs Larger Than Loop 7.Stain Soil Over 1/8" Major Major
3GG,5GG,7GG-up Major Major 8.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
3.Barre, Bent Needle Slubs up Rubbed Spots Major Major
To Size Of Loop Major Minor 9.Component Parts Not
4.Hole Dropped Stitch Not Securely Tacked Major Major
Repaired Major Major 10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
5.Improper Sightly Repair Major Minor Garments Major Major
6.Any Pattern Error Major Major 11.Pattern and Garment
7.Biased Pattern 1/2" Side Assementric Not More Than 1" Major Major
to Side Major Major 12.Shape Not as Specified Major Major
13.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced
C. Linking/Sewing - Seams + Stitches (Defects by Zone) Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B ***babyGap / GapKids***
1.One or More Skip Stitch or 14. Loose Components Critical Critical
Any Skip in a Chain Stitch Major Major ***babyGap / GapKids***
2.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 15. Stones in Garments Critical Critical
3.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major ***babyGap / GapKids***
4.Raw Edge, Open Seam Broken 16. Drawstrings at Head & Neck Critical Critical
Stitch, Loose Stitch Major Major
5.Incorrect Thread Color Major Major
6.Needle Perforation Major Major
7.Misaligned Inserts, Pockets,
Gussets, Over 1/8" Major Major
8.Loose Elastic Tension At
Bottom - Major
9.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
10.Buttonhols With Broken
Stitches Major Major
11.Misplaced Button Over 1/4" Major Major
12.Missing Button Major Major
13.Mismatch Stripes Sideseam Up
To 1/4" (Plackets Over 1/4") Major Major
14.Standard Weight Per Garment
Out of Tolerance Major -
15. Sharp Points/Edges on
Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-16
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Sweaters

Appendix II AII-17
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Bottoms

A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 22.Misaligned Fell Seams Over
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Width of Topstitch Major Major
3.Shaded Parts Major Major 23.Uneven, Pleating, Shirring or
4.Foreign or Color Yarn < Poorly Sewn Seams Major Major
or = 1/2" Minor - 24.Sewn in Pleat Outside Major Major
5.Foreign or Color Yarn > 1/2" Major Minor 25.Sewn in Pleat Inside
6.Poor Matching of Color or < or = 1/4" Minor -
Print Patterns Major Major 26.Sewn in Pleat Inside > 1/4" Major -
7.Texture Change Major Major 27.Uneven or Misplaced Darts
8.Bleach Spot Major Major Over 1/8" Major Major
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major 28.Waistband Width at Ends
(Front or Back) + or - 1/4" Major -
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) 29.Alignment of Waistband
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Over 1/8" Major -
1.Misweaves > 1/4" Major Major 30.Uneven Belt Loop Placement
2.Misweaves < OR = 1/4" Minor Minor Over 1/4" Major -
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired 31.Belt Loop Missing or Slanting
or Not Major Major More Than 1/8" Major -
4.Fabric Not as Specified Major Major 32.Uneven Hem Width > + or - 1/8"
5.Non-Characteristics Slubs Major Major Each Side - Major
33.Uneven Hem Front to Back
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) >1/4" - Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 34.Incorrect or Missing Bartack Major Major
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" 35.Buttonholes With Broken or
on Outside Minor Minor Unrepairable Threads Major Major
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" 36.Misplaced Button, Buttonhole
on Outside Major Major or Hook and Eye Over 1/8" Major Major
3. Run Off Stitches < or = 1/4" 37.Missing Button or Rivet Major Major
On Inside Minor Minor 38.Severe Puckering and Badly
4. Run Off Stitches > 1/4" Roped Hems Major Major
on Inside Major Major 39.Improper Interlining,
5. One or More Skip Stitch Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major
on a Chain Stitch Major Major 40.Interlining or Garment
6.More Than One Skip Stitch Part Twisted Major Major
on a Lock Stitch Major Major 41.Crows Feet Major Major
7.One Skip Stitch on Lockstitch Minor Minor 42. Sharp Points/Edges on
8.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
9.Stitching Margin Variation D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Major DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
10.Stitching Margin Over 1/8" Major Major 1.Poor Press Major Minor
11.Stitchcount Variation Over 2.Permanent Crease Major Major
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
12.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major Major Pressure Marks Major Major
13.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying Major Major E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
14.High/Low Hip Pkt Plmt > DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
+ or - 1/8" Major Major 1.One or More Sewing Threads
15.Lips or Creases on Frt Pocket Major - < or = 1/4" on Outside Minor Minor
16.Exposed White Pocket Bag Major - 2.One or More Sewing Threads
17.Wavy or Malfunction Zipper Major Major > 1/4" on Outside Major Major
18.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled 3.Thread Cluster on Inside Major Major
Back Seam) < or = 1/4" Minor - 4.More Than Four Threads > 1/2"
19.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled Back or One or More Threads > 1"
Seam) > 1/4" Major - on Inside Major Major
20.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety 5.One or More Attached Threads
Stitch Back Seam) < or = 1/8" Minor - At Bottom of Fly > 1/2" on Inside Major -
21.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety 6.Sewn in Waste or Thread Major Major
Stitch Back Seam) > 1/8" Major - 7.Stain, Soil, Oil to 1/8" Major Minor

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-18
Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Bottoms

E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) Continued


DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
8.Stain, Soil, Oil Over 1/8" Major Major
9.Ring From Cleaning Gun
or Rub Spots Major Major
10.Improper Tidy or Fraying of
Band or End Finish Major Major
11.Visible Drill Hole or Notches Major Major
12.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion Frays Major Major
13.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments Major Major
14.Twisted Legs Over 1" Major Major
15.Insecure Setting of Part Major Major
16.Incorrect Thread or Acc. Major Major
17.Incorrect Trim Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major
18.Missing or Incorrect Labels Major -
19.Incorrect Folding Major Minor
20.Uneven Elastification Major Major
***babyGap / GapKids***
21. Loose Components Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
22. Stones in Garments Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
23. Drawstrings Critical Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-19
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven Bottoms

Appendix II AII-20
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven Bottoms

Note: On pants and skirts 23” long and under there is no zone B on front.
(Measure from below the waist)

Appendix II AII-21
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Bottoms

A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 21.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Stitch Back Seam) > 1/8" Major -
3.Shaded Parts Major Major 22.Misaligned Fell Seams Over
4.Foreign or Color Yarn < Width of Topstitch Major Major
or = 1/2" Minor - 23.Uneven, Pleating, Shirring or
5.Foreign or Color Yarn > 1/2" Major Minor Poorly Sewn Seams Major Major
6.Poor Matching of Color or 24.Sewn in Pleat Outside Major Major
Print Patterns Major Major 25.Sewn in Pleat Inside
7.Texture Change Major Major < or = 1/4" Minor -
8.Bleach Spot Major Major 26.Sewn in Pleat Inside > 1/4" Major -
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major 27.Uneven or Misplaced Darts
Over 1/8" Major Major
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) 28.Waistband Width at Ends
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B (Front or Back) + or - 1/4" Major -
1.Misweaves> 1/4" Major Major 29.Alignment of Waistband Over 1/8" Major -
2.Misweaves < or = 1/4" Minor Minor 30.Uneven Belt Loop Placement
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired Over 1/4" Major -
or Not Major Major 31.Belt Loop Missing or Slanting
4.Fabric Not as Specified Major Major More Than 1/8" Major -
5.Non-Characteristic Slubs Major Major 32.Uneven Hem Width > + or - 1/8"
Each Side - Major
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) 33.Uneven Hem Front to Back
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B >1/4" - Major
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" 34.Incorrect or Missing Bartack Major Major
on Outside Minor Minor 35.Buttonholes With Broken or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Unrepairable Threads Major Major
on Outside Major Major 36.Misplaced Button,Buttonhole
3.Run Off Stitches < or = 1/4" or Hook and Eye Over 1/8" Major Major
on Inside Minor Minor 37.Missing Button or Rivet Major Major
4.Run Off Stitches > 1/4" 38.Severe Puckering and Badly
on Inside Major Major Roped Hems Major Major
5.One or More Skip Stitch on 39.Improper Interlining,
a Chain Stitch Major Major Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major
6.More Than One Skip Stitch 40.Interlining or Garment
on a Lockstitch Major Major Part Twisted Major Major
7.One Skip Stitch on Lockstitch Minor Minor 41.Crows Feet Major Major
8.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 42. Sharp Points/Edges on
9.Stitching Margin Variation Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Major
10.Stitching Margin Over 1/8" Major Major D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
11.Stitchcount Variation Over DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major 1.Poor Press Major Minor
12.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major Major 2.Permanent Crease Major Major
13.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Seam or Fraying Major Major Pressure Marks Major Major
14.High/Low Hip Pkt Plmt >
+ or - 1/8" Major Major E.Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
15.Lips or Creases on Frt Pocket Major - DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
16.Exposed White Pocket Bag Major - 1.One or More Sewing Threads
17.Wavy or Malfunction Zipper Major Major < or = 1/4" on Outside Minor Minor
18.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled 2.One or More Sewing Threads
Back Seam) < or = 1/4" Minor - > 1/4" on Outside Major Major
19.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled Back 3.Thread Cluster on Inside Major Major
Seam) > 1/4" Major - 4.More Than Four Threads> 1/2"
20.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety or One or More Threads > 1"
Stitch Back Seam) < or = 1/8" Minor - on Inside Major Major

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-22
Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Bottoms

E. Cleanliness (Defects by Zone)


DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
5.One or More Attached Theads
At Bottom of Fly > 1/2" on Inside Major -
6.Sewn in Waste or Thread Major Major
7.Stain, Soil, Oil to 1/8" Major Major
8.Stain, Soil, Oil Over 1/8" Major Major
9.Ring From Cleaning Gun
or Rub Spots Major Major
10.Improper Tidy or Fraying of
Band or End Finish Major Major
11.Visible Drill Hole or Notches Major Major
12.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion Frays Major Major
13.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments Major Major
14.Twisted Legs Over 1" Major Major
15.Insecure Setting of Part Major Major
16.Incorrect Thread or Acc. Major Major
17.Incorrect Trim Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major
18.Missing or Incorrect Labels Major -
19.Incorrect Folding Major Major
20.Uneven Elastification Major Major
***babyGap / GapKids***
21. Loose Components Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
22. Stones in Garments Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
23. Drawstrings Critical Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
A-23
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Denim Bottoms

Note: On pants and skirts 23” long and under there is no zone B on front.
(Measure from below the waist)

Appendix II AII-24
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Denim Bottoms

Note: On pants and skirts 23” long and under there is no zone B on front.
(Measure from below the waist)

Appendix II AII-25
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Classification of
Visual Defects
Blazers

A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak Major Major 24.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Over 1/8" Major Major
3.Shaded Parts Major Major 25.Improper Interfacing/Lining, Exces-
4.Obvious Foreign or Color sive Fullness of Parts Major Major
Yarn Major Major 26.Lining Twisted or
5.Not Obvious Foreign or Garment Part Twisted Major Major
Color Yarn Major Minor 27.Any Needle Chews Major Minor
6.Poor Matching of Color or 28. Incorrect Thread or
Print Patterns Major Major Accessories Major Major
7.Texture Change Major Major 29.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
8.Bleach Spot Not as Specified Major Major Ticket Placement Major Major
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major 30.Mishaped Pocket Welt Major -
31.Uneven Yoke Seam up to 1/8" Major -
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) 32.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8" Major -
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 33.Uneven Pleating in Seam,
1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/4" Shirring or Poorly Sewn Major Major
Clearly Contrasted Dye Smear Major Major 34.Uneven or Incorrectly Placed
2.Slubs and Misweaves Over 1/4" Major Major Darts Over 1/8" Major Major
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired 35.Uneven Hem/Bottom of Blazer
or Not, Needle Cut, Tear Major Major Over 1/8" Each Side - Major
4.Fabric/Lining Not as Specified Major Major 36.Severe Puckering and Badly
5.Barre, Bend Needle Slubs up Roped Hem Major Major
to Size of Loop Major Minor 37.Incorrect Tack Placement
6.Improper Repair Major Minor or Missing Bartack Major Major
7.Any Pattern Errors Major Major 38.Misplaced Buttonhole Over 1/2" Major Major
39.Misplaced Button Over 1/8"
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) or Missing Button Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 40.Crows Feet Major -
1.Run Off Stitches on Inside up to 1/8" Major Minor 41. Sharp Points/ Edges on
2.Run Off Stitches on Inside Over 1/8" Major Major Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 42. Twisted Sleeve Major -
Any Stitch Type Major Major 43. Uneven Back/Side Vents - Major
4.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 44. Twisted/Misaligned Lining Major Major
5.Stitching Margin Variation 45. Improperly Attached Buttons Major -
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Minor 46. Resew on Lapel Major -
6.Stitching Margin Variation 47. Exposed Basting Stitch Major Major
Over 1/16" Major Major 48. Improper Lapel Placement Major -
7.Any Exposed Stitch, Under 49. Lapel Width Side to Side
Part or Lining Major Major Variance> 1/8" Major -
8.Blind Stitch Bite Too Deep - Major
9.Stitch Count Variation Over
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major Major DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose 1.Permanent Crease Not to Spec Major Major
Seam or Fraying Major Major 2.Poorly Pressed Major Minor
12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8" Major Major 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
13.High-Low Pockets or Pocket Pressure Marks Major Major
Flaps> 1/4" Major - 4. Improper Break of Lapel Major -
14.Mismatch Pockets,4-Way 5. Excessive Wrinkle in V Zone Major -
Plaid Match Over 1/16" Major -
15.Mishaped Lapel Point Major -
16.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
17.Buttonholes Nonrepairable,
Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major Major
18.Incorrect Button Major Major
19.Missing Button Major Major
20.Button, 2-Eye Sewn in
4-Hole or Upside Down Major Major
21.Sewn in Pleats Major Major
22.Uneven Pleating Shirring
or Poorly Sewn Pleat Major Major
23.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
up to 1/8" Major Minor

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-26
Classification of
Visual Defects
Blazers

E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Attached Sewing Threads
up to 1/4" Major Minor
2.Attached Sewing Threads
Over 1/4" Major Major
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside of Gsrment Major Major
4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread Major Major
5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8" Major Minor
6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8" Major Major
7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Rubbed Spots Major Major
8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
Visible Major Major
9.Compoment Parts Not
Securely Tacked Major Major
10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garmentsq Major Major
11.Pile Direction Not as
Specified Major Major
12.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
Ticket Placement Major Major
13.Attached Sewing Threads at
Collar Area Over 1/8" Major -
14.Incorrect Folding Major Major
***babyGap / GapKids***
15. Loose Components Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
16. Stones in Garments Critical Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-27
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Blazers

Appendix II AII-28
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Classification of
Visual Defects
Bras

A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. SewingCont. (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak Major Major 24. Misaligned Trim- Bow, Applique,
2. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Print, Strap, Hook & Eye, Snap, Label,
3. Shaded Parts Major Major Panty Lace, Elastic Binding, Piping Major Major
4. Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn Major Major 25. Incorrect Bartack- Placement,
5. Not Obvious Foreign or Spacing, Stitch Count Major Major
Color Yarn Major Minor 26. Severe Puckering/Twisting/
6. Poor Matching of Color Curling Major Major
or Print Patterns Major Major 27. Missing Trim Major Major
7. Texture Change Major Major 28. Misshaped Parts- Such as
8. Shading Between Garments Major Major "Rounding" Cups Major -
9. Assymentrical Cup Depth > 1/4" Major 0 29. Protruding Underwire-
10. Incorrect Color of Component, Out of Channel Critical -
Thread, Trim Major Major 30. Sharp Points or Jagged Edges
11. Trim/Thread Not as Specified Major Major on Trim Critical -
31. Component Parts Not Securely
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) Tacked Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 32. Insecure Setting of Part Major Major
1. Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not Major Major 33. Top of Cups Assymetrical > 1/8" Major -
2. Fabric Not as Specified Major Major 34. Straps Assymetrical > 1/4" Major -
3. Slubs and Misweaves</= 1/8" Major Minor 35. Bottom Band Assymetrical > 1/4" Major -
4. Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch, 36. Underarm Elastic Assymetrical > 1/4" Major -
End Down, Run Barr, Bent Needle, 37. Center Front Placement of Bra
Needle Line, Barre Major Major Assymetrical to Cups> 1/16" Major -
5. Dye Discoloration, Streaks, 38. Improper Repair Major Major
Blotches, Print Out of Register Major Major 39. Underwire Play > 1/4" & >1/4"
6. Bow or Bias Fabric Major Major Between Cups Major -
7. Any Print/Repeat Pattern Errors Major Major 40. Broken Needle Point Within Garment Critical Critical
8. Elastic Streach Not as Specified Major Major

D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)


C. Sewing (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 1. Permanent Crease Not as Specified Major Major
1. Run Off Stitches up to 1/16" Major Minor 2. Poorly Pressed Major Minor
2. Run Off Stitches > 1/16" Major Major 3. Badly Wrinkled/Curled Major Major
3. 1 or More Broken/Skip/Loose 4. Burn/Scorch/Pressure Marks Major Major
Stitches Any Type Major Major
4. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major E. CLEANLINESS/FINISHING (DEFECT BY ZONE)
5. Stitching Margin Variation DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
Needle to Edge of 1/16" Major Minor 1. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS </= 1/4" MAJOR MINOR
6. Stitching Margin > 1/16" Major Major 2. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS > 1/4" MAJOR MAJOR
7. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major Major 3. ATTACHED INSIDE SEWING TRHEADS > 1/2" MAJOR MAJOR
8. Hem Too Deep Major Major 4. SEWN-IN WASTE OR THREADS MAJOR MAJOR
9. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-1 5. STAIN OR SOIL </= 1/8" MAJOR MINOR
Lock Stitch or Chain Stitch Major Major 6. STAIN OR SOIL > 1/8" MAJOR MAJOR
10. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-2 7. RING FROM CLEANING GUM MAJOR
Zig Zag Stitch Major Major OR RUBBED SPOTS MAJOR
11. Stitch Count Variation >+3/-3 8. DRILL HOLE, PENCIL OR OTHER MARK
3 Step Zig Zag Stitch Major Major VISIBLE NOTCHES MAJOR MAJOR
12. Improper Stitch Tension, Needle 9. MILDEW OR HEAVILY ODORED MAJOR N/A
Looper or Bobbin Major Major 10. INCORRECT TICKET, TAG,
13. Cross Over Stitches Major Major TRIM OR PLACEMENT MAJOR MAJOR
14. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose 11. INCORRECT FOLDING MAJOR N/A
Seam, Fraying Major Major 12. MISSING/INCORRECT LABEL(S) MAJOR N/A
15. Misaligned Parts Major Major 13. WRONG COUNTRY OF ORIGIN ON LABEL MAJOR N/A
16. Uneven Shirring/Poorly Sewn 14. INCORRECT PACKING/PACKAGING MAJOR N/A
Pleat or Dart Major Major 15. THREAD KNOTS MAJOR N/A
17. Sewn in Pleats Major Major 16. EXCESS SEWING THREADS BETWEEN PLYS MAJOR MAJOR
18. Mismatch Stripes/Plaids > 1/8" Major Major
19. Improper Interlining Major Major
20. Excessive Fullness in Parts Major Major
21. Twisting to Component Parts Major Major
22. Twisted Straps Major -
23. Needle Chews/Feed Dog Abrasion MAJOR MAJOR

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-29
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Bras & Bodysuits

Note: Use both bra & underwear standards when inspecting bodysuits.

Appendix II AII-30
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Bras & Bodysuits

Note: Use both bra & underwear standards when inspecting bodysuits.

Appendix II AII-31
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Classification of
Visual Defects
Underwear

A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. SewingCont. (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak Major N/A 23. Misaligned Trim- Bow, Applique,
2. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major N/A Print, Strap, Hook & Eye, Snap, Label,
3. Shaded Parts Major N/A Panty Lace, Elastic Binding, Piping Major N/A
4. Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn Major N/A 24. Incorrect Bartack- Placement,
5. Not Obvious Foreign or Spacing, Stitch Count Major N/A
Color Yarn Major N/A 25. Severe Puckering/Twisting/
6. Poor Matching of Color Curling Major N/A
or Print Patterns Major N/A 26. Missing Trim Major N/A
7. Texture Change Major N/A 27. Misshaped Parts- Such as
8. Shading Between Garments Major N/A "Rounding" Cups Major N/A
9. Incorrect Color of Component, 28. Component Parts Not Securely
Thread, Trim Major N/A Tacked Major N/A
10. Trim/Thread Not as Specified Major N/A 29. Insecure Setting of Part Major N/A
30. Legs Assymetrical > 1/4" or Uneven Elastification Major N/A
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) 31. Sides of pants Assymetrical > 1/4" with Sides > 4" Major N/A
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 32. Sides of pants Assymetrical > 1/4" with Sides < 4" Major N/A
1. Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not Major N/A 33. Improper Repair Major N/A
2. Fabric Not as Specified Major N/A
3. Slubs and Misweaves</= 1/8" Major N/A
4. Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch, D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
End Down, Run Barr, Bent Needle, DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
Needle Line, Barre Major N/A 1. Permanent Crease Major N/A
5. Dye Discoloration, Streaks, 2. Poorly Pressed Major N/A
Blotches, Print Out of Register Major N/A 3. Badly Wrinkled/Curled Major N/A
6. Bow or Bias Fabric Major N/A 4. Burn/Scorch/Pressure Marks Major N/A
7. Any Print/Repeat Pattern Errors Major N/A
8. Elastic Streach Not as Specified Major N/A E. CLEANLINESS/FINISHING (DEFECT BY ZONE)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS </= 1/4" MAJOR N/A
C. Sewing (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone) 2. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS > 1/4" MAJOR N/A
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 3. ATTACHED INSIDE SEWING TRHEADS > 1/2" MAJOR N/A
1. Run Off Stitches up to 1/16" Major N/A 4. SEWN-IN WASTE OR THREADS MAJOR N/A
2. Run Off Stitches > 1/16" Major N/A 5. STAIN OR SOIL </= 1/8" MAJOR N/A
3. 1 or More Broken/Skip/Loose 6. STAIN OR SOIL > 1/8" MAJOR N/A
Stitches Any Type Major N/A 7. RING FROM CLEANING GUM MAJOR
4. Incorrect Stitch Type Major N/A OR RUBBED SPOTS N/A
5. Stitching Margin Variation 8. DRILL HOLE, PENCIL OR OTHER MARK
Needle to Edge of 1/16" Major N/A VISIBLE NOTCHES MAJOR N/A
6. Stitching Margin > 1/16" Major N/A 9. MILDEW OR HEAVILY ODORED MAJOR N/A
7. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major N/A 10. INCORRECT TICKET, TAG,
8. Hem Too Deep Major N/A TRIM OR PLACEMENT MAJOR N/A
9. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-1 11. INCORRECT FOLDING MAJOR N/A
Lock Stitch or Chain Stitch Major N/A 12. MISSING/INCORRECT LABEL(S) MAJOR N/A
10. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-2 13. WRONG COUNTRY OF ORIGIN ON LABEL MAJOR N/A
Zig Zag Stitch Major N/A 14. INCORRECT PACKING/PACKAGING MAJOR N/A
11. Stitch Count Variation >+3/-3 15. THREAD KNOTS MAJOR N/A
3 Step Zig Zag Stitch Major N/A 16. EXCESS SEWING THREADS BETWEEN PLYS MAJOR N/A
12. Improper Stitch Tension, Needle
Looper or Bobbin Major N/A
13. Cross Over Stitches Major N/A
14. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam, Fraying Major N/A
15. Misaligned Parts Major N/A
16. Uneven Shirring/Poorly Sewn
Pleat or Dart Major N/A
17. Sewn in Pleats Major N/A
18. Mismatch Stripes/Plaids > 1/8" Major N/A
19. Improper Interlining Major N/A
20. Excessive Fullness in Parts Major N/A
21. Twisting to Component Parts Major N/A
22. Needle Chews/Feed Dog Abrasion Major N/A

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-32
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Underwear

Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.

Appendix II AII-33
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Underwear

Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.

Appendix II AII-34
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Underwear

Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.

Appendix II AII-35
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGap
Old Navy
Banana Republic
Underwear

Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.

Appendix II AII-36
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap Inc.
Quality Assurance Manual
February, 2001

The End
Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001