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Optical Block
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Optical Block Design Last updated 6/29/2010
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Lamp Overheating Issue


1 Introduction
Sony Service Menu
2 Models
3 Required tools
4 Optical block purchase or rebuilding
5 Optical block access
6 Optical block replacement
7 Optical block cleaning
8 Optical block disassembly

Introduction
z Optical block access is a prerequisite for all procedures, so that
section should be followed first.
{ If you plan to have your optical block rebuilt, or if you
purchased a replacement optical block, you should then
proceed to the Optical block replacement section, and
you can ignore the cleaning and disassembly sections.
{ If you plan on trying to clean your own optical block, skip
the replacement section and proceed directly to the Optical
block cleaning section.
„ If you want to do a very thorough cleaning and/or
inspection of the internal parts of your optical block,
proceed on to the Optical block disassembly
section after completing the initial cleaning section.

Disclaimer

Attempting to remove and/or dismantle an optical block should probably


be reserved for those experienced with such procedures. You will have
to decide whether you are capable of doing it. And you are doing it at
your own risk, as it could result in damage to your TV, and, although
unlikely, injury to yourself. It will likely void any warranty you might have
left, if any. To help ensure a smooth re-assembly at the end, you should
carefully label all electrical connections, including orientation of wires in
the connectors. You should also carefully note which screws are used to
attach specific components.

Models

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Unless otherwise noted, the photos and procedures described below


apply to the 2004 3LCD Grand WEGA model KDF-55WF655. Related 3
LCD models should be similar, but they are not identical. More recent 3
LCD models are likely to be somewhat or substantially different.

A few instructions and pictures describing access to the optical block of a


2003 3LCD Grand WEGA model KF-50WE610 provided by AVS Forum
member "lou58" can be found here: Set 1 and Set 2. In addition, Paul
Patience has posted some instructions and photos for the Canadian 3
LCD model KF-42WE620 on his Sony LCD Projection TV Cleaning
Instructions web site.

A detailed set of pictures and instructions for the 2005 SXRD model
KDS-R60XBR1 provided by AVS Forum member "adrian1281" can be
found HERE. Later SXRD models may differ.

Service manuals are also available for all models, and these should aid
the process, although they do not provide step-by-step instructions. I
may have a copy, so feel free to inquire, although I may not be able to
respond, or it may be delayed.

Required tools
Generally, the procedures described on this page require only Philips
head screwdrivers, but note that you will need one with an extra long
shaft in order to remove the optical block itself from the 3LCD models.
You may also need a hex head (Allen) wrench to remove your projection
lamp and housing.

Optical block purchase or rebuilding


Sony has optical blocks available for purchase for most or all models, in
most cases for about $500-$1,500 plus one-way shipping. An individual
named John Breton rebuilds optical blocks for all 3LCD models. In
addition, a company called Tri-State Module rebuilds optical blocks for
all models (2002-2007 3LCD and SXRD), except the A10 models, and
they sometimes have rebuilt optical blocks in stock for purchase.

In all three cases (Sony, John Breton, and Tri-State Module), rebuilding
likely includes cleaning the internal parts, replacing degraded liquid
crystal panels, and/or replacing degraded filters with OEM parts (new or
used). Thus, I would assume that the optical blocks will fail within the
same (or less) hours of use as the original optical blocks, so potential
customers will have to decide whether the cost of the part or repair is
worth the additional time for usage. This information is current as of
March, 2010. See below for details on all three services.

Sony

The following table indicates the optical block part number for the
indicated models from the Sony ServicePLUS and Sony Parts and
Accessory Sales web sites. For many of the models, the Sony
ServicePLUS web site shows a large "core" charge, if you do not ship
your old optical block back within 60 days. This likely also applies to the
Parts and Accessory Sales web site, although it is not explicitly stated.
Presumably, this means that Sony rebuilds those parts.

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It is unclear which of the optical blocks purchased directly from Sony are
new or rebuilt , and there is no hard evidence that any of the optical
blocks have been re-designed to remove the defects that lead to the
discolorations. Hank LeClaire, a high-ranking Sony customer service
representative, has acknowledged that Sony's optical blocks are
"remanufactured [rebuilt] to the original specifications". In addition, in
many cases, Sony assesses a high "core" charge approximately $1,000,
if you do not ship back your old optical block, suggesting that they rebuild
them.

Subtracting any core charges, most of the 3LCD optical blocks (except
the 2002 models) are around $500-$700, and most of the SXRD optical
blocks (except the 2004 QUALIA model) are around $900-$1,200. The
2002 3LCDs are in the $1,400 range, and the 2004 QUALIA is around
$5,000.

The part numbers in parentheses refer to numbers that have been


replaced. The accuracy of this table is not guaranteed. In fact, there is a
great deal of variability from site-to-site on which part numbers work in
which models, so verify with Sony before ordering! For the 2005 SXRD
models, there are multiple part numbers for each model, apparently due
to changes made during the production year. For those models, you
should contact Sony with your serial number to confirm the correct part
number.

2002 3LCD
KF60DX100 = A1601922A
KF50XBR800 = A1603624A (A1603625A)
KF60XBR800 = A1603611A (A1603613A)

2003 3LCD
KF42WE610 = A1606006A (A1606033A)
KF50WE610 = A1606008A (A1606035A)
KF60WE610 = A1606010A (A1606036A)
KDF60XBR950 = A1606041A (A1606042A)
KDF70XBR950 = A1606039A (A1606040A)

2004 3LCD
KF42WE620 = A1086496A (A1086496B)
KF50WE620 = A1086497A
KDF42WE655 = A1084658A (A1056437A)
KDF50WE655 = A1084660A (A1057972A)
KDF55WF655 = A1084662A (A1060807A)
KDF60WF655 = A1084664A (A1061049A)
KDF55XS955 = A1084666A (A1061489A)
KDF-60XS955 = A1084668A (A1061404A)

2004 SXRD (QUALIA)


KDS70Q006 = 991300092 (A1105717A)

2005 3LCD
KDFE42A10 = A1123071A
KDFE50A10 = A1123069A
KDFE55A20 = A1132202A
KDFE60A20 = A1132204A

2005 SXRD
(Earlier models have Serial Numbers beginning with 20xxxxx, 90xxxxx,
and 98xxxx.)

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(Later models have Serial Number beginning with 91xxxxx and 99xxxxx)
KDSR50XBR1 (earlier) = A1148155A (A1168495B or A1148155B)
KDSR50XBR1 (later) = A1168495A
KDSR60XBR1 (earlier) = A1127174A (A1127174B)
KDSR60XBR1 (later) = A1168494A (A1168494B)

2006 3LCD
KDF42E2000 = A1212387A
KDF46E2000 = A1197240A (A1175106A)
KDF50E2000 = A1197241A (A1174954A)
KDF55E2000 = A1197243A (A1174964A)

2006 SXRD
KDS50A2000 = A1203196A (A1203196B)
KDS55A2000 = A1203195A (A1203195B)
KDS60A2000 = A1203194A (A1203194B)
KDSR60XBR2 = A1203198A (A1203198B)
KDSR70XBR2 = A1203197A (A1203197B)

2007 SXRD
KDS50A2020 = see KDS50A2000 above
KDS55A2020 = see KDS55A2000 above
KDS60A2020 = see KDS60A2000 above
KDS50A3000 = A1359074A?
KDS55A3000 = A1359074A?
KDS60A3000 = A1359074A

2007 3LCD (BRAVIA)


KDF37H1000 = A1307742A
KDF46E3000 = A1310251A
KDF50E3000 = A1310249A

John Breton

A former TV repair technician named John Breton located in Haddam,


Connecticut rebuilds Sony optical blocks of 2003-2007 3LCD models
(see the list above) for $199 plus two-way shipping to Connecticut. You
remove the optical block from your TV yourself and ship it to him, with a
turn-around time of about 7 days. Mr. Breton claims to have rebuilt more
than 300 optical blocks (as of March, 2010). See his eBay Feedback
Profile for more information, or contact him directly by email at cabledude
0461@yahoo.com. I had my own KDF-55WF655 optical block rebuilt by
him, and the results are very good so far (re-installed 2/5/2010), but only
time will tell how long the replacement parts last. I have received only
positive feedback on his service.

Tri-State Module

A company called Tri-State Module in Evansville, Indiana rebuilds the


optical blocks for all models (2002-2007 3LCD and SXRD) for $299 plus
two-way shipping to Indiana, and, in very limited cases, they seem to
have rebuilt optical blocks for sale for $349 (including a $50 core charge)
plus shipping. They offer a 6-month warranty to rebuild an optical block
that you remove from the TV yourself and ship to them, with a turn-
around time of 7 to 10 days. They have very limited availability of
previously rebuilt optical blocks. If you purchase a rebuilt optical block,
you will get a credit for shipping your optical block back to them.

Tri-State Module is a Better Business Bureau-accredited business with

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an A+ rating. I confirmed by email with them that their replacement parts


are the same ones that Sony installed during the original manufacturing
process, restoring the optical blocks to their original factory
specifications. As of December, 2009, they claim to have repaired over
12,000 optical blocks (light engines) of all TV brands with a less than 2%
return rate (as of March, 2010). I have received only positive feedback on
their service.

I welcome any customer feedback on Tri-State Module, John Breton, or


other third parties that rebuild or provide optical blocks, including
longevity.

Optical block access


Rear cover removal

Unplug the TV and remove the rear cover from the back of the TV by
removing all of the screws with arrows pointing at them. On the KDF-55
WF655, there are nine screws around the perimeter and four screws
within the audio/video connection area (chassis assembly). Once all of
the screws are removed, the cover should move very easily away from
the TV. Set the rear cover aside with its screws so that you do not get
them mixed up with others.

Two examples of perimeter screws with arrows pointing at them (screws


removed):

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Audio/video connection area (chassis assembly) screws with arrows


pointing at them:

Rear cover removed. From left to right, note (1) the audio/video
connection unit (chassis assembly), (2) the center pillar (large metal plate
in front of the optical block), (3) the main cooling fan, and (4) the woofer
(speaker) block assembly.:

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Center pillar removal

Disconnect the two ground wires from the connector on the center pillar
(metal plate between the audio/video connection unit and the main
cooling fan). Remove the five screws with arrows pointing to them from
the center pillar. Note that the screw on the middle-right goes into the
main cooling fan housing, which must be lined up properly when
reinstalling. Also note that there is an optical block support guide on the
back of the center pillar near the bottom (see the two screws in a small
metal plate at bottom of the center pillar). This guide slides in a slot,
requiring the center pillar to be lifted for removal. Once all of the screws
are removed, it should be easy to gently lift the center pillar up then out
from the bottom bracket. Set the center pillar aside with its screws so that
you do not get them mixed up with others.

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Center pillar (removed):

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Side view of removed center pillar showing optical block support guide:

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Main cooling fan removal

Remove one more screw at the bottom of the fan housing (in addition to
the one that was removed with the center pillar). Note that it is not
necessary to remove the fan itself from the housing. It will come out as
an assembly.

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Follow the wires (black, yellow, and red) from the fan to a connector. Pull
the connector apart. It can only be re-inserted in one orientation, so you
should not have to worry about that. Remove the fan wires and
connector from the white wire holders (purse locks). Finally, slide the
main fan and housing outwards toward the back of the TV:

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Main cooling fan with housing (removed):

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The following photo is of the back of the TV with the center pillar and
main cooling fan/housing removed. Note the screw at the bottom middle
of the photo. This is the second one that needs to be removed to release
the fan housing. The optical block is the large unit between the
audio/video connection unit on the left and the speaker on the right. The
green electronics board attached to the back side of the optical block
(with the red wires leading to the right and to the projection lamp area) is
the power supply block (also known as the lamp drive unit or ballast).
The black "sensor wire" should be removed from the clip by the fan on
the top right of the optical block. It creates a loop as it goes through the
white purse clips on top, through the clip, and then back across in front of
the power supply block to its starting point (remember to re-create this
loop during re-installation):

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Audio/video connection unit (chassis assembly) removal

Remove the screw at the top of the metal support beam to the left of the
audio/video connection unit, and remove the beam by slightly lifting the
plastic TV case just above the beam. The audio/video connection unit is
not secured to the TV. It can be slid out the back of the TV by lifting it up
slightly and pulling. Make sure you do not put unnecessary stress on any
of the many wires that go from the unit to other parts of the TV. For now,
you only need to slide it out and slightly to the left to gain access to one
of the screws securing the optical block to the TV:

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Audio/video connection unit partially slid out:

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Optical block (optics unit assembly) removal

There are two screws securing the optical block to the TV housing that
are somewhat difficult to access and require a long-shafted Philips
screwdriver. Note that in some other models, there apparently are three
screws.

The leftmost screw securing the optical block (accessible after sliding out
audio/video connection unit):

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The rightmost screw securing the optical block to the TV (accessible


through the semi-circular "slot"):

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Remove all of the wire bundles from the white purse locks sticking out
the top of the optical block, and slide the optical block out of the TV while
also sliding the audio-video connection unit. Here is a photo of both units
out of the TV:

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The following photo shows the area of the TV to which the optical block
was secured by the two screws. When re-installing the optical block,
make sure the screws are secure. The alignment of the block will affect
the alignment of the picture. If it is not tight up against the foam gasket
on the TV housing, the picture may be crooked:

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Wire disconnections

There are four additional wire connectors that should be disconnected to


enable easy removal of the optical block. One connects the audio-video
connection unit to the speaker (woofer) and is located on the speaker
enclosure (see previous photo). The wire bundles for the remaining three
connectors may be attached with tape to a fan housing on the top right
side of the optical block. Remove the wire bundles from the tape, and
disconnect the three connectors:

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You should now be able to freely access the optical block for any of the
subsequent procedures described below.

Optical block replacement


If you are sending your optical block in for rebuilding, the rebuilders will
likely request that you leave all parts on the optical block for testing
purposes, so you should only disconnect the remaining wiring that
connects the optical block to other parts of the TV.

z If you are doing a direct replacement of your optical block with a


purchased part, the purchased part likely will not have a
projection lamp or power supply block on it, so you will have to
remove those parts from your current optical block and install
them on the replacement.

Disconnecting wiring from power supply block

This step may be optional, if the power supply block must be transferred
to a purchased replacement optical block. Undo the blue plastic-coated
wire holders to release the two wire bundles. Disconnect the connectors
shown with the dotted lines in the photo below. One, which presumably
provides power, is disconnected directly from the power supply block,
and the other is a regular wire connector.

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Disconnecting the optical block fan wires

Disconnect the optical block fan wire connector:

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Disconnecting the wiring from the optical block circuit board (C


Board)

Carefully pull up on the three wire connectors directly connected to the


top of the C Board:

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Final wire disconnection from C Board

Remove the screw and gently pull the blue ribbon ribbon cable out of the
side of the C Board:

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Your optical block should now be entirely free of the TV and ready to
ship. I recommend adding specific protection for the projection lens, then
sealing the whole unit in a bag to prevent infiltration of dust or packing
materials, then carefully packaging it with substantial padding.

Removing the projection lamp and power supply block (in cases
where you are installing a purchased replacement optical block)

To remove the lamp and housing, loosen the hex screw attaching it to
the optical block and pull the housing outward from the metal clips. To
Detach the power supply block, remove the four screws attaching the
board to the optical block and the two screws attaching the lamp
connector.

Picture of replacement optical block for KF-60WE610 (courtesy


John Setar)

Here is a picture of a replacement optical block for the KF-60WE610.


Note that the lamp and power supply block need to be removed from the
old optical block and attached to the replacment.

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The following two pictures show a circuit box that helps drive the optical
block. It is attached to the audio/video connection unit and must also be
replaced on some models. Otherwise, the color will not be correct (e.g.,
blue tint across entire screen).

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Optical block cleaning


Cleaning alone is likely only effective under very limited circumstances
(e.g., the pink/purple fingerprints/blotches thought to be caused by dust
alone). If you intend to replace your optical block, skip this section and go
to the Optical block replacement section.

Remove the black LCD panel cover to expose the area with the LCD
panels:

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Optical block with LCD panel cover removed:

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Close-up of LCD panel area (note that the locations of the blue and red
LCD panels are reversed in some models):

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In theory, blowing air over the LCD panels and other internal parts could
move some dust. In addition, the glass on the projection lens can be
cleaned with lens paper and solution. Aerosol (canned) air is not
recommended, as it can come out very cold and/or spray moisture, so
extreme care should be exercised when using it (do this at your own
risk). More thorough cleaning can be accomplished by further
disassembling the optical, as described below.

Optical block disassembly


The method described below requires even more care and patience,
particularly the points where the LCD ribbon cables and the light path
filters are removed. However, it will allow much more thorough cleaning
of the internal parts, as it enables direct access to the filters and LCD
panels.

Note that Paul Patience has created another web site (Sony LCD
Projection TV Cleaning Instructions) that describes this process on a KF-
42WE620. It includes instructions and photos on accessing and cleaning
the individual LCD panels, prism faces, and filters inside the optical
block. Also note that, on the KF-42WE620 (and perhaps all 2003 Grand
WEGA or "WE" models), the locations of the blue and red LCD panels
are swapped relative to the KDF-55WF655 (and perhaps all 2004 Grand
WEGA or "WF" models).

Remove the centrifugal lamp cooling fan. It is held by 3 silver-colored


screws, as indicated in the photo below.

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The following photo shows the centrifugal lamp cooling fan removed.
Note the two silicone shock absorbers on which it was mounted. Next,
remove the black plastic lamp fan mounting plate. It is held by 4 silver-
colored screws, as indicated in the photo below (screws removed):

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Remove the projection lamp by loosening the hex screw and pulling it out
of the clips.

Next, remove the black plastic wedge-shaped piece that covers the
circuit board on top of the optical block. It is held by 4 silver-colored
screws, as indicated in the photo below:

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The following photos show the optical block with the lamp fan, lamp fan
mounting plate, LCD panel cover, wedge-shaped piece, and projection
lamp removed (note the that the blue and red LCD panel positions are
reversed on some models):

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Next, the 3 copper-colored ribbon cables must be removed from the


circuit board on top of the optical block. To accomplish this, carefully lift
up one of the tiny beige-colored "handles" from one side. One way to do
this is to place a small flat-head screwdriver underneath and gently lift
up. The beige handles will raise about 45 degrees, and you will be able
to gently remove the ribbon cable. In order to replace them properly later,
note that the ribbon cables are inserted near the top of the handles, and
that only a small amount of the gold-colored area is visible when fully
inserted. See the photos below for more detail.

Lifting ribbon cable connector:

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All three ribbon cable connectors loosened:

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All three ribbon cables removed from their connectors:

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Next, remove the portion of the optical block that contains the LCD
panels, prism, and projection lens. It is held by four silver-colored and
four black screws, as indicated in the photo below. Pull this unit off the
rest of the optical block, while carefully monitoring the ribbon cables to
make sure they do not get caught. Note that the clear dome on the
projection lens appears to be made out of plastic.

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Below are photos of the removed panel/prism/projection lens unit.


Projection lens side (optical block fan filter removed--two silver screws):

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LCD panel side:

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The optical block fan filter is made out of a Scotch-Brite-like material and
is stapled together through a piece of beige-colored adhesive tape. It
seems a rather crude construction that is incapable of filtering small dust
particles. This filter in my TV was not particularly dirty, nor was the
centrifugal fan. I have seen others that are very clogged with dirt:

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Photo of main optical block after removal of panel/prism/projection lens


unit:

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Close-up view of blue and green light path filters. The filter in the blue
light path appears orange, and the filter in the green light path appears
yellow:

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Close-up view of filters in green and red light paths. The filter in the red
light path appears blue:

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Next, remove the circuit board with sheet-metal shielding from the top of
the optical block. It is attached with 3 silver-colored screws located, as
indicated in the photo below:

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Next, remove the large black plastic plate that covers the remaining part
of the optical block. It is attached with 6 silver-colored screws located, as
indicated in the photo below. Prior to lifting off the plate, remove the red
wire that winds through the posts on the plate. This is one of the two
power wires (the top one) that goes from the power supply block to the
projection lamp.

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After removal of the black plastic plate, you can access the screws that
secure the filters through which the light travels just prior to reaching the
LCD panels. In addition, you can see the centrifugal fan that cools the
internal LCD parts.

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Parts to clean

Carefully clean both sides of the following parts, preferably with optical
quality lens paper and cleaning solution:

z The filters and adjacent lenses in each of the three light paths
z The outside and inside surfaces of each of the LCD panels
z Other exposed parts in the light path

The following photo is of the filter in blue light path, which has been
removed for cleaning. Note the cloudy discoloration on the filter in the
shape of a rectangle with an oval shape in the middle. This seems to be
characteristic of the filters in the blue light path, likely arising from
exposure to heat and light, particularly UV light. This phenomenon is
likely a cause and/or effect of the blue discolorations:

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The following photo shows the gaps between the LCD panels and the
prism through which it is possible to clean the surfaces. DO NOT attempt
to unscrew the LCD panels from the prism faces, or you will likely lose
your convergence upon re-installation:

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Pictures of disassembled optical block on KDF-55XS955 (courtesy


of Bob Scott) -- similar to above

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