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GSG-5 Accessories

#1 - Iron Sights

Update for Rear Iron Sight - GSG has made an adjustable rear iron sight for windage and
elevation. They are available now.

Since the "Original GSG-5" rear iron sight has no elevation adjustment, a replacement has
been found for those looking to upgrade.
my2cents found the ICS airsoft rear sight has a basic elevation adjustment. The drum is threaded
like on a real HK but it just screws up and down on the base with a detent stop at each position.
So when you turn to a different position you are changing the elevation. Not as nice as the real
HK sight but it does give a basic elevation adjustment and is a drop in replacement on the GSG5.
It is all metal and similar to the original sight in quality. The ideal solution will be to fit a real
HK sight to the GSG which I'm sure someone will do very soon but this is a drop in replacement.
Lock down screw and windage screw are the original GSG parts. It is setup like a G3 drum so
each hole is the same size and drilled at a diffferent elevation. The drum appears to made out of
blackened brass.
Purchase - Blazing Toys - Part MP-31
You can use a real HK sight and not mod anything but there will be a gap underneath the sight
base. You could use a piece of plastic or rubber to shim it and fill the gap if you don't want to
mod your receiver.
The big issue could be windage as there is almost no left windage unless you mod the receiver. If
it zeros and you don't need any more windage then you are good. You can use a small washer on
the original GSG windage screw so it will fit the HK sight snug. The slot in the HK sight is much
wider than the one in the original.
If you need more left windage you would need to cut some off of the post as shown below.
#2 - Optics and Mounts

For some Airsoft Optic Reviews - Click Here

bicho with a low profile mount and a eotech. the mount came with the gun from the factory.

jeffg87 with a low profile mount and a Burris Fastfire red dot. Purchase - Optics Planet
jackal2001 with a G&G Low Profile Mount. Purchase - Redwolfairsoft
G&P Model 121 Red Dot. Purchase - Redwolfairsoft
Sightmark Multi-reticle Reflex Sight. Purchase - Sportsmansguide
I highly recommend this G&G mount, it drops right in and fits perfect! The ultimate LPM, made
of aluminum. With no optic on the mount you can still use the iron sights.
Ripnrob with an extended low profile mount, aimpoint clone, and a surefire scout light.
Heavy modifications with a dremel were needed for his mount on the underside. It didn't have
the cutout for the raised section on the GSG itself.
Icarus with a NcStar DMP5 1 x 20 Red Dot with a built in co-witness mount. Purchase - Optics
#3 - Airsoft Stocks

Most airsoft stocks will work. Some may need to be modified.

Ripnrob with an ICS airsoft side folder. Purchase - Evike

When folded, it completely blocks the ejection port.
Only modification needed was the pin hole needed to be reamed out a tiny bit in order for the pin
to fit.
soup-nazi with a Classic Army B&T Type MP5 folding stock (Model A189P). Purchase -
Airsoft Extreme
He stated that it fits with no mods needed only a little light tapping to get in on the receiver. He
also noted there is no means to "lock" the stock when it is in the folded postion, but the friction
of the hinge helps it stay folded. It will fire and eject brass when the stock is in the folded
I personally purchased one of these stocks and I did have to remove about 1/16" from the top
inside with a dremel. It was just too tight, even with applying some wheel bearing grease. It does
lock up 100% solid with no wobble anywhere on the stock. It is also a very solid feeling stock.
EchoAngel17 with a Classic Army Collapsibe Stock (model A030M) Purchase - Cobra Airsoft
No modifications needed, slips right on. Full Metal Construction, Locks in 3 positions -
Collapsed, Midway, and Fully Extended.
As we found out with other people, when the stock is fully collapsed, it will partially block the
ejection port. This will have no effect on ejecting brass. The brass still clears the rail of the stock
and functions fine.
The wire sling attachment that ships with the stock will not work with with the weapon.

G&G Brand Airsoft UMP side folding stock will not fit out of the box. The top area is too tight
and needs to be dremeled out. It may not be worth the effort. Picture taken by JRX35.
#4 - Real H&K Stocks

Following information provided by decodeddiesel

OK so today I received my HK parts from HKParts I ordered a number of things including a

used A2 stock, 2 small pins, one large pin, and a green HK sling. Just a quick note about
hkparts.net, they ROCK!!!. All items were sent out the same day and I received them in 2 days!
Great Job! So anyway, onto the how-to.

First some compairison pictures between the HK stock and the GSG-5 stock. Here we can see
the GSG stock (above) and well loved the HK stock (below). What you can't see it the amazing
difference in durability between these stocks. The HK stock itself feels like a weapon, it is very
stout and feels great. By comparison the GSG stock feels like it would break to pieces if I
dropped it.
Comparison shot of the mounting points. Real HK on the left, GSG on the right. Note the
differences between the "rails", this is the ONLY area on the stock that requires modification.

The first step was to drill out the stock pin mounting hole for the HK "large" pin. I measured the
pin to be 0.272" with a set of calipers. The next size up on my drill index is the "J" bit, measuring
0.277". The through hole in the receiver is plastic, and the TiN bit I used zipped through it like
butter. I wouldn't even bother trying to step-up the hole size, it's so soft, and so close so as not to
Next thing is the ONLY grinding step required in the whole process. Looking at the right, or
"ejection port side" rail on the HK stock we can see it's a little too tall to fit. Enter Mr Dremel
tool. I used a grinding drum, at medium RPM. The HK stock material is tough, but grinds well. I
just shaved a little at a time constantly test fitting until the stock fit.
Here are the grinds. I did go a LITTLE too far, but the stock is still VERY snug and has zero side
to side wobble. I did notice a very small amount of up down wobble. Honestly though, there's
such a small gap I seriously doubt it will bother me while firing.
I may "bed" the stock with JB weld if the wobble really bothers me, but compared to factory
stock it is WAY more stable. The pin I found is a snug fit, but thats the way I like it.
Finished pic:
#5 - Airsoft RAS/Forearms

When trying to install different brands of RAS/RIS on, it may be necessary to remove and
replace the long set screw that holds the barrel from rotating and acts as a brace for the standard
handguard. You can replace this set screw (pictured below, left) with one that is 10/32 pitch and
3/8" long (pictured below, right). It will then sit flush against the bottom block. Pics from
Ripnrob with a G&P Knights Airsoft RAS (Model GP102) (heavy modifications to the collar
needed) Purchase - eHobby Ebay
Pictures of the unmodifed parts and collar.
Collar is held in place my that metal bracket into the RAS.
After heavy cutting and filing and giving it a coat of black spray paint. You can see how much
material compared to the factory collar was needed to be removed. You can now see how the
collar goes up and into the slots on the reciever.

One piece of the rail had to get cut off in order to clear the ejection port.
With the rail panels and VFG installed. Great job, just awesome!!!
Heineken with a Nitro brand RIS forearm. Purchase - Trinity Airsoft
The stock front handguard screw is a bit long and may need to have a lock washer put on to take
up the play in the forearm.
The tabs may need to be bent in order for it to sit strait.
ADOR with a CA MP5 Tac Light & Handguard (Model A127P). Purchase - Airsoft Extreme
Perfect Fit, no modifications to the forearm, but the screw that goes into the barrel housing needs
to be replaced.
01coltcolt with a Classic Army MP5 RIS. Purchase - Trinity Airsoft
He had to cut the rail panels off to clear the ejection port. Slight mods are needed, info posted
below. He also stated that the camera flash made it look grey when it is not.

Mods needed for the CA to fit are minimal, pics by TDKNC

There is a set screw on each side you tighten to "squeeze" the collar, which gives the CA a rock
solid feel.
#6 - Airsoft Long Top Rail

JohnStoner did the install by notching the charging handle, try to keep the mocking to a
minimum as I haven't gone to it with a fine file yet. The important thing is it functions. You do
need to do some dremeling/filing so the charging handle can stay in the locked back/up position.

It comes with a replacement front site and you need to remove the rear site to install it. The
installation of the front site is optional, I chose not to. Another member here a install. Not sure
what it involves.

The small blocks of metal that clamp onto the gun can be over tightened and break. I replaced
mine with a low pro clamp off a $15 mount when one of mine broke. To me it's a complete
change to the look of the weapon, though expensive it's awesome. If you can find one in stock I
would fully support the decision to purchase. I enjoy it a lot, holds zero no problems with the
fakepoint I use.

Rail Sleve by Laylax - Purchase - Trinity Airsoft

#7 - NFA: SBR and Suppressor Options

So far the only company that I am aware of that had plans right from the get-go to come out with
a bunch of different options for hosting a suppressor.

This information was posted by Kel

GSG-5 with SBR modification, showing an early pre-production (final ones are blued) Gemtech
GSG adapter nut:
GSG-5 with SBR modification, Gemtech adapter nut, and Gemtech OUTBACK series

GSG-5 with SBR modification, Gemtech adapter nut, and Gemtech 3-lug (shown with MP5
9mm RAPTOR-II suppressor)
GSG-5-SD legal length, non-SBR, permanently installed dedicated suppressor bringing overall
barrel length to 16":
GSG-5-SD Suppressor Unit:

The can can be picked up on it's own or as part of the GSG in order to drop costs by making it an
extension of the barrel and avoiding double stamp fees.
The GSG-5SD will be available on a Gemtech supplied GSG-5 Rifle, permanently attached.
MSRP $1,195 for the complete package. Final design work, testing, and production of the first
batch of rifle/suppressors is beginning. Target release date is May 2008.
Adapters will be the same price as our P22 and Mosquito adapters at $45 MSRP. If you send
your Form 1 SBR rifle to Gemtech we will cut and recrown your barrel and install the adapter for

Owen M.

5/13/2008 Just FYI, we at Gemtech ended up using a different specification for shortening and
profiling the GSG barrels for our adapters. The ones we did in '07 were based on only having one
sample of the carbines, and since we've had over a 100 of them come in, we've revised things a
Any adapter shipped prior to last week will follow the original install specs, new adapters will
have this instruction sheet:
8/14/2008 Gemtech has come up with another method of attaching suppressors and is a thread on
adapter. Here on the instructions:
The price on the Gemtech GSG-5 Suppressor Adapters is $45 each.
Gemtech currently does have the GSG-5 adapter nuts in stock, clients may order directly via
phone with V/MC, 208.939.7222 9-5 MF MST.
Gemtech GSD-5 (2 stamp gun) ($1,195 or TBD)
Gemtech GSD-5 (1 stamp gun with perm attached suppressor. OAL 16") ($1,195 or TBD)
Gemtech Drop in SBR Barrels. More info Here
Gemtech 3-Lug Adapters for GSG-5 Pistol. More info Here

dspd204 has aftermarket SBR Barrels over Here in the EE

These barrels work in conjunction with the Gemtech Suppressor Adapter.

Please refer to the ad in the EE for further information.

How to tell the difference of what Generation GSG-5 you have.

Redwolf Airsoft - Probably the most popular airsoft retailer


Airsoft Extreme

Airsoft Global

Trinity Airsoft

UN Company


WGC Shop

War 4 Toys International


Tokyo Model Company


Airsoft GI

Cobra Airsoft
www.cobraairsoft.com/ - some have reported problems ordering from them.


PowerEdge USA

Shorty USA


I didn't see this listed in the accessories here, so I thought I'd post it.

This quick release mag catch is really nice. Solid, slips right on, and is held in place with an allen
screw (and the mag release on the GSG-5 already has a raised area for the spot the allen screw
attaches to). I like it much better than the regular release, as it allows for the thumb to activate
the release if you're taking it off with the left hand in a much easier/more natural feeling way (for
me), and the trigger finger can also activate it and release the mag. It seems much easier now to
change mags.

I ordered the quick release mag catch from HERE (third item down in the list)
This document compiled by David Robertson, using text and photos originally posted at
GSG-5 Modifications
#1 - Phillips Type Screw Replacement

Replaced with Hex Head Stainless Steel Screws and Nuts

The majority of the screws on the GSG are a "phillips type" screw. Even though they look like a
standard phillips head, they are not. If you look closely you can see there is almost a star pattern
to it as well. The only tool that should be used is the Orange Handled Multi-Tool that ships
with the gun. A better option would be to replace the screws with hex head stainless steel screws.
If you are having problems finding the screws locally you can order them from over in the EE.
See links below in the last section.

Summary of what to get when shopping at the hardware store:

(12) - m3 hex nuts

(11) - m3 hex head, .50 thread pitch, 12mm long
(1) - m3 hex head, .50 thread pitch, 16mm long
(2) - m2.5 hex nuts
(2) - m2.5 heax head, .45 thread pitch, 12mm long


(4) m3 12mm, with nuts, for the trigger assembly

(3) m3 12mm, with nuts, for the bolt assembly
(4) m3 12mm, with nuts for the main reciever
(1) m3 16mm, with nut - this is the barrel screw (you need this one 16mm to be long enough for
the nut to attach
(2) m2.5 12mm, with m2.5 nuts for the bolt assemby (these are the slightly smaller screw on the
bolt assembly, they have a star hex that is a pain to get out, definately worth it to replace these as
they strip easily.

Some Pictures of a few of the locations:

#2 - Fake Suppressor Mod

Remember to make sure the GSG-5 is unloaded and wear prop eye and respiratory

This "how-to" is to be considered informational only! You accept ANY and ALL
responsibility should you decide to use it to modify the GSG-5.

No human, extra terrestrial, or animal life forms were harmed in the process of writing this
"how-to", modifications of the GSG-5 or post modification range testing.

Parts Used
King Arms QD Suppressor (UNCOMPANY / Redwolf Airsoft)
Classic Army MP5 front sight (Airsoft Extreme)
#8-32 x 3/16" Set Screw (x3 / 2 per a pack from Home Depot)
#6-32 x 3/16" Set Screw (x1 / 2 per a pack from Home Depot)
1/2 x 2 copper pipe (Home Depot)
Tools Used
Dremel Model 395
- Reinforced cutting wheel (428) or EZ Lock equivalent
- 60 grit sanding drum / band (408)
- Tungsten Carbide Cutter (9901)
- Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone (8193)
Cordless Drill
Precision screw drive set
#6 and #8
Kobalt Titanium coated drill and tap set
- Tap #6 Bit #32
- Tap #8 Bit #29

Fitting the new front sight involves the most work. Take your time and test fit frequently! It's far
easier to remove metal than it is to put it back.

Starting with the CA front sight you will need to remove the "notch" from the top of the opening
where the barrel comes through the sight and widen the 6mm barrel hole to the current diameter
of the front section using the tungsten carbide cutter. DO NOT INCREASE THE DIAMETER
OF THE FRONT SECTION ....yet. The diameter on the back side of the sight is larger. DO NOT
WIDEN THE FRONT TO MATCH THE BACK. The whole will be too big.

Next, take the 1/2" 60 grit sanding drum and "work" it into the front of the barrel opening in the
site until you can run the drum all the way through. The hole should be just slightly smaller than
the drum and the rounded edge around the hole will help guide the drum. Do not increase the
diameter any wider than the sanding drum. If done properly, it will produce a near perfect fit for
the copper tubing.
Now flip the sight over and look at the back. There are 4 areas that will need to be modified.
Have the GSG-5 handy as you will need to stop and test fit while modifying the sight.

Starting with the area that covers the cocking tube, use the 60 grit sanding drum to increase the
diameter stopping frequently to test fit. One things to watch for when fitting is that the hole the
sling post goes through is aligning properly. You may need to work the bottom part of the area
more than the rest so the holes match up. Once the sight starts to slide of the cocking tube, switch
to the aluminum oxide grinding stone to "flatten out" the wall as the sanding drum tends
to produce a "coning" effect. Again, take your time and test fit often.

While test fitting, you will probably notice that the narrow section of the sight post where the
sling post screw runs though will needs to be widen slightly. Take the reinforced cutting disk and
widen the area using the face of the disk. Again, take your time and test fit often.

Ok, so now you got the sight so it fits but it won't go on quite far enough for the sling post to fit
through the hole. The back side of the bottom area of the sight where the barrel goes through
should not need any modification. However, the back wall of the sight in the narrow section and
the cocking tube sections will need additional metal removed to complete the fit. Use the edge of
the reinforced cutting wheel to remove metal in the narrow section and the face of the aluminum
oxide grinding stone for the area that fits of the cocking tube section. Don't go crazy here. You
only need to remove a tiny bit in both sections to complete the fit. Again, take your time and test
fit often.

Using the #6 tap and #32 bit, drill and tap the hole in the bottom of the sight.
Unscrew the front end cap and QD part of King Arms suppressor and push out the foam inserts.

Replace the front end cap and set the main body aside.
Take the tungsten carbide bit and enlarge the hole in the QD part until it’s matches the inner
diameter. Use the 60 grit sanding drum to smooth out the enlarged area and check to see the
copper tube will now fit through the QD part.
Drill and tap 3 to 4 holes with #29 bit and #8 tap equally spaced.

Got the newly fitted front sight attached and secured to the GSG-5? If not, do it now.
Cut off a 2” section of copper tube; slide it over the barrel and into the front sight. Slide the QD
part on to the copper tube and push it flush with the front of the sight. Install the set 3 to 4 #8 set
screws and tighten.
Now screw the main body of the suppressor back on the QD part. Rotate the suppressor till you
have the markings facing the way you want. Install the #6 set screw in the bottom of the sight
and tighten just enough for it to mark the copper tube. Pull the suppressor off. Locate the where
the set screw marked the copper tube and drill it with the #32 bit. Replace the suppressor while
lining up the hole and the set screw and tighten. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! The set screw
should be flush with the bottom of the sight.

Apply some purple or blue Loctite to the set screws and enjoy!
#3 - ICS Navy Lower

Here is a comparison of the Factory GSG5 Trigger Grip housing and the ICS. The ICS has lots
of potential because the slots for the rear mounting are there. With the front screw or pin hole
and the slotted back end, it makes for a tight fit. In all these comparison pics, the German Sports
factory trigger housing is on the left and the ICS on the right.

The housing looks very nice. The plastic is a little less quality though. And there are some
differences that must be modified. But once modified and together with the trigger group, it
weighs and feels just fine.
To modify the ICS to fit the GSG5, here are the main points that need to be cut or reworked:

What you will need to make these modifications is a Dremel Tool, an X-Acto Knife, a millimeter
ruler to measure, and a pencil. Use the pencil to make the marks for the cut. Use the factory
housing as a guide.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to get the placement correct, otherwise, you will have drilled away
and the trigger group may not fit becasue it is too far forward or too far back.
This will take some time. DO NOT GET IN A HURRY. Unless you want a big hole in the side
of your nicely marked trigger guard, you need to slowly work the space on the plastic. It is only
about 4mm thick. But it is very solid and can be shaped nicely. You will also need to widen the
selector switch holes. These are much smaller than on the factory grip and to fit the safety lever,
you will need to widen them until it rotates with ease. Do not forget to carve off the little 'stop'
bump as this will interfere with the factory selector switch.
You are now ready to install the trigger group and selector switches.

For installing the trigger group, make sure the brass spacer washers are in place and the spring is
engaged on the flat retainer that the spacers sit on.

Next, slide the group down until the serial block is flush with the top of the housing. Using a
small screw driver, gently pry the side open so the serial block can fall into the notch.

Then make sure the whole group is flush with the top and that the holes line up for the selector.
Install the selector.
The next step is to install the retaining screw in the hollow of the pistol grip. The ICS has more
holes in the bottom, so you will need to widen the main hole into an oval, and then secure the
screw base with a locking or flat washer. My ICS did not come with a butt cap. The factory butt
cap does not fit.
Now you can mount the trigger group on the GSG5 like normal. Here it is installed on my 5P.
Compare this new look with the inset pic of an actual MP5A3 Navy.
This project took about 3 hours. The cost of the ICS housing was $29.99 from Evike.com. It
shipped to me in about 5 days from order. All in all, I am satisfied with it and am ready to test it
at the range.
#4 - ICS SEF Lower Mod

The part you need is BB gun part by ICS MP-46 (mail order from HK cost $35 + $11 shipping)
On the right hand side is the GSG factory lower that has been removed from the GSG-5P.

Compare the factory lower (front) to the ICS lower (rear).

Inside the ICS lower, you will need to remove (dremel) the two ribs out.
These 2 rib are located near the Safety selector hole on each side.
You will also note the position of the serial no. cut out on the factory lower.
After removing the ribs inside the Navy housing,
the entire fire control mechanism can drop in (pretty tight though).
But the serial number plate will not fit in. So just mark its' position on the new lower.
I dremeled (gouging out) 2.5 mil. of plastic inside the new lower at the position marked.
Take you time here, and don't over do it.
(Sorry for a blurry picture )
About 30 min. with 5-6 fittings later.
The fire control mechanism group will just squeezed in.
Next problem, the factory Safety lever is too large to fit into the hole of the new lower housing!!
So I had to enlarge the hole radius a bit more using a dremel cone grinder (about 1.5 mm. larger
than original)
Re-mount the Fire/Safety control lever.
Note: It will be stiff to rotate because the outside ridge on the new housing, so I sand the inside
of S/F lever a bit to fit.
Re-assemble the lower, and that's all to it.
#5 – Charging Handle Rattle & Buffer

While I was in there I did a few other things. In the frame I noticed that the guide-rod, for the
charging-handle spring, rotated and rattled in the frame where it sits. That caused the charging
handle spring to have roughness in it's operation and a cheap "slinky" sound when cocked.
To fix this I simply tucked some small pieces of dense foam around the rod.
Cocking of the gun now operates smoothly, with no movement of the rod and no cheap sounds.
Next I decided to make a buffer, as others have done, for the charging handle, so it would not
slam into it's slot in the frame when released.
In the plumbing Dept. at Home Depot, I found a couple items that were the proper 11/16" outer
diameter size that worked perfect. The (Danco brand 3/8L faucet stem repair) beveled washer
and o-ring, stacked together make a buffer with a little "cush" for the cocking tube to travel
forward into, without damaging the handle or frame, and it eliminates any cheap metalic noise
when the handle moves forward after cocking the gun. I was able to install these items, without
seperating the frame halves, by inserting them horizontaly, into the cocking-handle slot, and then
turn them into position, and used the charging tube to "ram-rod" them into position, with a
couple pulls and releases.
The pieces are oriented like on the pencil tip below where the cocking tube hits the o-ring.
#6 – Polishing The FCG

Next, I decided to polish the key parts that make for a really smooth semi-auto firearm. The
trigger sear, hammer, and breech slide. I used a 3-piece manicure file set that you can buy for
$1.50 at most any store that has a beauty/grooming isle.

With these files you can safetly polish any metal surface to a mirror finish, without worrying
about changing the real shape or profile of the hammer or sear. I did the sear and associatied
hammer release surfaces (no pics) and the bottom edge of the breech-slide and hammer-face
contact surfaces. These meet everytime the slide cycles to cock the hammer.
hard to see mirror finish

The result is buttery smooth operation of the charging (cocking) handle, trigger pull, and firing-
cycle operation of the gun. And a neat little rifle that will stay together for years to come....

These target were 30 yards standing (right) and 60 yards resting arm (left)
All I can say is WOW, with a big smile on my face.

This document compiled by David Robertson, using text and photos originally posted at