=a a ; VOLUME L NSS ELE Me Tae rot : GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE AUGUST, 1926 z CONTENTS SIXTEEN PAGES OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN FULL COLOR Through the Great River Trenches of Asia With 48 Tlustrations JOSEPH F. ROCK The Life of the Moon Jellyfish With 6 Illustrations WILLIAM CROWDER Jellyfishes—Living Draperies of Color Eight Reproductions of Paintings from Life Struggling Poland With 49 [lustratians MAYNARD OWEN WILLIAMS Siena’s Palio, An Italian Inheritance from the Middle Ages With 3 Tinstrations MARIE LOUISE HANDLEY Under Radiant Italian Skies Eight Natural-Color Photographs PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALLInevery clime, the world around—for lasting sheet metal work use KEYSTONE Rust- . oO Copper Steel Sheets AND ROOFING TIN ELATESVor. L, No. 2 WASHINGTON Auausr, 1926 TE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 7 apaaRTSE STE ERS oe SS Pe To TET THROUGH THE GREAT RIVER TRENCHES OF ASIA National Geographic Society Explorer Follows the Yangtze, Mekong, and Salwin Through Mighty Gorges, Some of Whose Canyon Walls Tower to a Height of More Than ‘Two Miles Leaner ar me Nationa Tae Lane or tan Viuuw reno aie CHavt SAGALIsE With ilustrations from Photographs by the luther HERE in all the world is to be found scenery comparable to that which aivaits the explorer and photographer in northwestern Yun- nan Province, China, and in the mountain fastnesecs of Tsarung, it. southeastern ‘Tibet ? Few have been privileged to climb the towering ranges separating the mightiest streams of China, if not of Asia. The whole region, so geologists tell us, was once one vast, high plateats, now. inter- sected and eroded by some of the longest rivers in the work ‘These rivers changed this high plateau not merely into-a land of lofty mountains, tut of deep valleys with gloomy shadows and forbidding gorges never trodden hy human foot, In these trenches the Salwin, Mekong, and Yangtée, cutting through mountain ranges 20,000 feet in height, make their way to the oceans. ‘These three rivers, flawing parallel, north to south, for some nt western China ad southeast er Tibet, at one place come within 48 miles ni each other, as the crow fies, and yet their mouths are separated by thou- Sands of miles (sce map, page 34): ch 1 wanted to bring home to America in pletures [led the National Geos No white man bad previously had a glimpse of many of the scenes here photo- graphed, for the few explorers who hnve penetrated these terrifyime fastnesses have done so. when the snow-crowned peaks were hidden from view by the en- veloping monsoon clouds of summer. All three of these rivers have their "See “The Natienal Geographic Society's Yinnan Province Expedition,” by Gilbert Grosvenor, TLL. 1. in the Natiowat. Geigarar atic Macaatse for April, 1025.THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE inne by C. EL Riddifoed WHERE TIE CHEAT RIVER TRENCHES OF ASIA RUN PARALLEL Ia Yiintian Province, China, the Yangtee. the Mekong, the Salitin, and the eastern thranch ¢ the Irrawaddy flow south for a considerable distance; then each takes its separate way, the ‘Yungize to emer the Pacific near S Shisha es Mesa ia ths Tyg Chagas Salwitt and Irrawaddy: the Indian Qeeant origin in the high plateau land of ‘Tibet, Lot their ultimate sources are still un- known, ‘The Salwin, which flows for a long dis- tance through Tibet broper, enters Yiin- nan south of ‘Tibet. its southward course it becomes part ae the Burmo- Siamese border and finally enters the Thdian Ocean at Moulmein, made famous by one of Kipling’s poems, ‘The Mekong parallels the Salwin to about the 2oth degree of latitude; then tums westward, forming the border of three countries—Burma, Siam, and Indo- China—and finally enters the tropical South ‘China Sea tiear. Saigon. ‘The Yangtze, the mightiest and longest of them all, is also the least consistent. It flows parallel to the Mekong to a point hiku, and thence makes a sharp curve, tarning directly north; leseribes a huge loop which adds hundreds of miles (she pages 133-736). to the length of the river; returns to the south, then turns to the east, becoming in ee a botindary for the provinces of ‘innan and Szechwan, and at length bends to the northeast and enters the Pacific Ocean near Shanghai, Of these rivers, the Salwin is the least Known; it is navigable for only a short distance above its mouth, The Yangtze, on the other hand, is navigable far a dis- tance of some 1,500 miles, to Chungking, and thence by small bonts as far.a5 Suifu. Beyond that rowhonts ply as far as Mae chang. ineastern Yannan, In the north, near Batang, it is navigable by slkin boars or coracles, but only for short distances, Extensive stretches of this river, which is more than 3,000 miles long, are un- known and parts of its course appear on acciraté maps as dotted lines, Mauch has been written about the Yang- tze gorges in the vicinity of Ichang, so136 ‘THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE TRINAL WARFARE T= These trudd watehtowers were erected: about 500 years subdue the Mant ae font lh Valley. As it ve om last surviving king of the Nashi, whose terri text, mage 107) Moro Kings, who triel 19 Ad rogiom In Yen the Irrawaddy (see he Mekong, and which of a4.no0 feet, the highest 5 hei Mount Miy the slopes af their gorges and in their ath gu to ex- 8, early Vashi hamlet r snow t page 177)» he Mekon Highest ‘Yangtve divide re sph, AX SETS OU'T Poit THRE i neat rane diy flowing p 40 the ims Far some dis- tance, especially in the Chinese part ¢ sour During the whole summer batanien! exe ations had been carried on in the ; but, as photography during the sonths is aut of the q I cial fall and winter of the moti faint ranges and the weird and little-known chasms in which these mighty rivers flow, liv Among’ the NariowatH THE CREAT138 so THE floor, while the wome: nallow iron caldrons, clishimg out vegetable soup toa few ditty children 1 were running about. first day of a journe: the caravan never © 1000 OT 11.00 2m, we the Nashi hamlet af lopes of a spur which we » cross the text da paved rond wi Kimina rain made the muc et of Paishika cma the f which we fay meal at a Nashi way- d the -worn rocks $0 slip- 1 Sort ofTHROUGH THE GRE gS OF ASIA THE ROME BRIDGE OVER THE MEKONG AT LOTA Te WEL ANCHORID tbraided barn fled to the rope in ‘The Chinese soldier ard the two N: srt, Were Hever unxioas ty make these per » who formed journeys If the topes are cn river. the bri of the Expedition'’s wer possible we used a ‘The Je the pavement. ‘Thus, north, makes avery tof the world are often village and returns north again, flowing entirely abandoned and new ones made by parallel to itself, not more than 15 miles mstant trot of passing caravans, Separating opposite channels. ‘The river ght spent in the little temple at is here very wide and in the winter the ke was far from testful; fleas inmumer- eo of islets and sand bars, the mate sleep next to impossible. My breeding ground, of ducks, s, and men who slept on the ground red other waterfowl. itiost, although their Nashi hides must 5 market day in Shiku and its sin- aye been intred tosuch littleahnoyances, gle street w. i with men, women, The following day we climbed a high mules, pi ren, and what not, pery that whe narrow track bes in this py p curve at th sjiir, reaching an elevation of to,000 feet, ‘The en composed mainly af 1d passed through country where enor- Nashi, \ Lolo tribespeople, who mous sinkholes filled with shrubbery af- brought vegetables, pigs, the forded excellent Drigands. siding places for roving market (see page 147) the central part ut into the main stree ter. Sinee there are no step T climbed over a mer us giving the names of the amount of money ed toward the vg the Duaile anid took pictures ed the to my heart's content, while the crowd at Druin (sce map, page the foot of the stage looked on. he town, built is an open to FLOWS PARALLEL To TISEL0 AT STANCE OF 15 MULES at mors and the A well graded rock trail ‘bros > the Yangtze Valle deve down innity of | thas heen written about thTION CROSSES THIE SALWIN IN TInt DUGOL ANOES OF TITE LUTZU drunken: Lanz, were preferable to a much-nsed rope bridge for crossing this broad, swif flowing stream (ate text, pore (79)M4 The most disagreeable part of traveling in Yunnan is the necessity. for spending an occasional night im a‘town, This usu- ally means dirt, flies, opium smoke, noise, and general discomfort, as there are na chimneys to the houses, and the smoke must find its own way ont, which is usu- ally through the badly joined floar of the lodt, where T always took refuge to avoid a curiniss moby, THE “COMPORTS” OF TRAVEL EN YENNAN Tn Shiku T occupied a farge, barntike house containing hnyge stables and gran- aries, belonging’ to a tich Likiang Bud- ist priest addicted to opium smoking. decent place, if that word can he employed —hut everything is relative— was the chapel of cour lama lost, and there, in front of a gilded Buddha, 1 made myself comfortahle—another rela- tive term. T quote from my dinry: “Lam sitting ona haleony while the iin destends heavily, Before me there stretches a long stable full of mutes ani horses a noisy Tittle parrot, which [bought for three cents, sits on his stick, while cats and dogs and dirty. children’ create fandemonitin and add te the confusion. my belated caravari, “The lead-mule, with his large hell, steps into the muddy courtyard, followed by his hungry cosufferers. Without wait- ing to have their loads removed, they fight their way to the troughs and t éat through the Haskets tied aver their agate, ‘ “Dogs are stepped pon, pigs squeal, sie mulen tray, While lor-detl gato are conjured unprintable: language: h the exasperated muletecrs. Everywhere mud, dung, cornsialles, and odors which it would be difficult to analyze! Poor cook! Ta stich strrommdings he has te produce a palatable meal. The next morning we started with as much neise as when we arrived. How gloriotis to get out of such a foul place into the pure, fresh air! ‘Our trail led us up the Yangtze for several days. The country was quiet and peaceful; clouds Inmmg heavily about the mountains inelosing the river—the Inst of moeisoon simmer. ‘To the left, on a high, conical hill, was a temple, Of all the places in the workl! ‘THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, One pities the caretaker, for his stoning must take some effort, as the sides of the hill are as steep as the walls of a hous VAPUR EPVIGHIS BURNED AT A) NASIL FUNERAL At Biilsutlo, a Nashi village; someone had given up his mortal toil; mourners were pariding around in grayishewhite garments and headdresses, while leaning against the wall of the deceased's house was a long row of almost life-size human effigies made of lamboo framework cov- ered with paper. ‘There were also huge Paper horses, sedan chairs, castles, and towers of paper, all to be burned at the grave, These imaginary servants, horses, cle... Wert to minister unto and comfort the departed in the shadow world (p. 135). Many lateral ravines open out into: the tain Yangtze Valley, while the tail passes through dense growths of spiraa, fauhina, and rhamnus. ‘These ‘bushes anil shmibs fine the narrow trail, at times almost closing over it. Myriads of spider webs were interlaced and entwined among: these shrubs, forming glohise masses in which thousands of large yellaw spiders with outstretched legs watched for their prey. Unless one held up a stick to sepa rate the ‘yellow: threads and make a pas- sageway through this labyrinth, one's head would soan have resembled a yellow hall of twine ar fnzzy- sill, “A ROAD 15 GOOD FOR TEN YEARS} RAD POR TES THOUSAND" ‘The trail skirts a sandstone wall, built ially from the tiver hid. which of having been suhmerged by the last high water. The rocks were loose and near the edge the path had sagged considerably and in many places was washed out, But roads in this part of the world are varely, if ever, repaired. A Chinese prov- erh says, “A read is good for ten years and bad for ten thotisand."" ‘The mountains are here Teak and dreary, only grass covering the slopes. Tmntnedistely under the sandstone wall | found a newly erected temple. Tt was open, but the only attendant was a child, who had lighted incense sticks before the gods—three boyish figures about two and ahalf feet hich, feaning against the wall of the altar as if inebriated. My soldiersHe belongs win Valley just south of Tiber Feoper, ‘The Lutew a ‘al people, small af the children of the trbe are expert marksmen with this primitive weapon (scePeprtionLs THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE cometTHROUGH THE GREATif HARULET OF ly 1 «KONG fam between Wellt and Atumtee, “Beyer+ THE DORERLA ext, nageLOORING UP THE YANC he soem at the better ft al the eifige, bat sso tariee on the atheiat A SMILE TROM A CITIZEN OP TTR FORMIDDEN LAND wer fe wwihor’s trip to the TDTHROUGH THE GREAT &THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE NOW-COVERED STREAM BiDCAT THE Poor OF THM DOKERLARENCHES THE GRE,100 THE NATIONAL CKOGRAPHIC MAGAZINETHROU and horse-boy bowed and folded their hands in prayer before them, Along a weary trail, over mighty passes and through deep and gloomy ‘canyons and glorious forests, we proceeded to Be- fengchiang, where we stopped for the night in an old farmhouse. 1 slept up- stairs ina btack hole of an attic festooned with eorncohs, An ald table and a barrel and the ever-present family shfine eum prise the sole furniture, Tut, after a long day's march or rile, one cares little about surroundings as long as one has his ‘own bed, talile, chairs, and other neces- sary alltincts brought with binn from the civilized world beyond the ranges, val- leys. and plains, ONE rurn, occurs LTLEN's scHoor, ‘The fifth day from Likiang we reached Chatien, on the banks of a tributary of the Yangtze, along which our trail now followed a mountain range, up and down through valleys and villages, till we came upon the plain of Latien and a much scattered village of the same name. nest- ing on the slopes of the Mekong-Vangtee divide. Below ns lay-a beautiful amphitheater; te the right an imposing Intilding on the hillside, a lamasery, the first outpost of the Tibetan Church, Ir was difficult to find a place of rest, On account of the rain, Tdecited not to pitch our tents, but entered the first Laild— ing near the hank of a stream, ‘This proved to be the dilapidated schoolhouse of Lutien. A lonely Nashi hoy sat at a desk copying Chinese characters, The ceiling bad once beén papered ; sheets of it hung down anil supported spider webs which almost touched the hoy’s head. We went on in search of better quar- ters, which we found in the best honse of the ple. Gpitm. smokers were evicted from the loft, and after T had had the place cleaned I took stock of my. sur- rounditis. ‘Air was plentiful. From my bed T conld.see the stars, not through the win- dow, but through the ceiling, from which hung bunches of beans as they had been pulled wp from the fields io dry, A thied of the room was occupied by white einen Tar cakes, a sort of weast used in the make ing of wine, A pile of straw, hme bas- kets, and the ever-present altar of red THE GREAT RIVER TRENCHES OF ASIA tet perforated paper with Chinese characters curout of gilded paper completed the fur- nittire. ‘The evening air was wonderful st this elevation {9,000 feet); the rain had ceased tind a chindiess, Starry sky minde tis forget the hardships of the roa. A verbal fight between the two families who acetipied the hotise énsicd the next morning over the division of the muriey was to give them, for one supplied water, the other firewood. Giving each what was deserved, I left them’ quarreling. to their heart's content, We now ascended through sprice forests to the summit of th tze-Mekong watershed, Litiping, as the divide is known, is one broad, undulating Fanye of alpine meadows, some 11,000 feet in elevation, ordered hy a dense forest of the loveliest hemlock. ‘The undergrowth consists mainly of 2 canebrake (drundinaria), while a thick carpet of moss covers the ground, ‘The tneatlows were one sea of bli and white, for the genitians as well as the edelweiss were all in bloom. Rhododendron bashes, tall anemones, and irises formed a border onthe putskirts of the hemlock forest "The air was bracing, the sunshine glori- ons; birds were singing and all seemed ulad for life, ‘The view toward thé Yangtze in the east was wonderful, the long ranges stretching from north to south as far as the eve could see, while at ovr very feet lay the scattered hamlet of Liitient, still enshrouded in morning mist. dine anil Yang AUTHOR'S MAN, TXTAUSTS. WEITST'S STAMP SUPTLY Late that afternoon: we prefectural town of Weihsi, 2 forlorn place of ahout goo houses sitnated on a sinall tritutary of the Mekong River, ‘The town boasts a walliot mud with few dilapidated gates. ‘The west gate is an oval hole in the wall, perhaps merely the result of a kicking, obstreperous ‘Yiinnan mule, Here we stopped for two days ta de- velop onr pictures, pack seeds, and write notes and letters, for Weihsi has m post office, thot as We would understand the word, however. ‘The postal clerk wns unable to figure eur the postage due on imy letter package, as he had never coal ved at theHE NATIONAL GE verted grams i fructicny Thee! nr nigh nt from place eattivs ; beside t face, loulsny t of space ficient ta cover pu S whiel could be c converted irito © conclusion that 1 bet ar the nigh, certain stim of H ouyght (to mirkoAn pare te st The it- was that the aan Sate tials Be I spies a dise ‘ Eat SILER > . and) decided t VE art OF my tinse I dirty room, inisterinig te temple grounds whe abled = clinic the eT camped re oper! for hur cure Not wishing ec pected a fairly found in it another dea repnsing horial ockupant lacquered cof iting when moot ood és to putt ¢ After leaving We ly put up in the Grst katang, shout ten mi in-a soom level with the road. Vir all were conk the Weihsi ed it to. cure and mud-hoy s the chirTHROUGH E GREAT RIVER TRENCHES OF ASIA 163 blind, wa lown with a huge that th of it dragg his lower jaw cult for man, Ic sail his pict his lengthy pipe EXDIAN CORN IN Mae KONG VALLEY WAISE PUZZLING QUESTION From ‘Kakatang we continued ont jour ngh narrow How loads had t sd from the CTIRP LAA} We follow Valley is Indian eon. Tt is the where we fh ribes, | the head Siam, wn in Asia before As the aborig- i diff taken, and when T agreed in a loud, commanding who broug! it put on aver wn as if ont silk to decide this When tr there are a a large caravan on the east hank river seven days Strange as it may s portant crop grown by the most im: e natives of the in this part10+ expedition, Aiter the evening meal, there is much work to be done, A careful diary amtst be written, exposed photograp glint pukel Gud ape blew hietet in Gs dark, with hande tied inte a small chang- ing bay. Plants must be labeled, and. when one finally relaxes on a camp cot, the “easials” arrive. Here is the case of a horse-boy on whose Tare foot a mule has stepped; another has a boil, a third fever or a headache. ‘The number of patients is often aug= mented by village people, who come with all sorts Of ailments till one has to call a halt and, dead tired, refuses to see more visitors, Ii sent away, the supplicamts are sire to come in the early morning, before breakfast. ROCK-PRAYER PYRAMIDS DESPEAK TImiTAN INYLAENeH, We were still in the land of the Nashi, although one enconnters other tribes, sich as Lissu and Tibetans. At Kangpa we stopped at the house of the Nashi chief who rules over this: and other villages farther south. " Shortly alter our arrival we heard chantings, the blowing of trumpets, beat- ing of gongs, and the rinzing of bells, all emanating fram a window on the to floor opposite my room, Soon the faces and red cloaks of Nashi lamas appeared in the window frame. They stojipedd their worship to satisfy rheir curiosity. Having taken a: good Jook at me. they returned 10 their prayers with occasional poundings ‘of the drum and monotonots bhires from Trumpets, Guided by a lama, T went upstairs to a.chapel ani found priests sitting hefore Tibetan books. ‘They were a friendly lor, and later [ took their pictures, after pre- senting them with copies of a photograph oi the Dalai Lama sj Lhasa, whem some of their number had seen in person and immediately recognized. ‘The religion of the Nashi in this region is pure Tibetan Thddhism, to which they were converted by their Tibetan neigh- bors. ‘Tombas, or sorcerers, are rare, if hot unknown, Tt was here that T eneotntered the first real Nashi lamas, They spoke ‘Tibetan, hesides their mother tongue, and some of them had even been to TJhisa, where they had studied, THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Following up the Mekong finch of Weiksi, one becomes more and more aware of the fact that one is nearing the ‘Tibetan border, Chinese are very searce ani the tribal people, such as the Nashi, have adopted the religion of the lamas, Beyond Yetche (Yeichih), Tibetans ovt- number other tribes, Other signs of Tibetan lama overlordship sure the many imei shrines, pyramids of. rock stabs an which are deftly carved the everlasting formula. “Om Afant Padme Hum” (0), the Jewel in the Lotus, Ametr). ‘The pyramid bas usunlly a square base. against the sides of which are slabs of rocks, isnally: of slate or sandstone, on which, often in mintite letters, the prayer is engraved. Lnndreds af such slabs of rock compose a pyramid which is crowned Liy'a Jong, carved pole surmounted by a crescent (see pages [80 andl 181). Sellom does one find a single pyramid. Usually there are long rows of them, com- posed of thousands of Inboriosly carved torks always hearing the same prayer. Oecasionally Buddhist ‘emblems, even Tinddhas, are carved into the rocks and beautifully painted. At Kapgpa there’ was a square Tari shrine, with Pauddias painted on the white- washed walls, while next to it stood a small incense stove of brick, wherein prayers and cedar- or pine-hreach offer- ings were burnt (see page Ife). Tn the courtyard of our Nashi_ chief forgathored many people who later joined my men in the huge kitchen, where fires Durned lastily. ‘The sparks were flyin, and all at once the black, smoky roof eaught fire, Had it not heen for the big ealdren of boiling water, there wotild have: heen no house, Tt is remarkabile that fires do ot eccur daily, for the people are alsolittely care less. Candles.and oi! lamps are unknown ati! the natives walk about with lighted pine torches, some of which are even stuck into cracks between posts. as one wotld hang up a lantern. Tf one house burns, it ustally means that nothing can save the village, THE LAST GY THE NASHI RINGS EFILENDS STRANGERS Otir trail descended from Kangpa to the stream bed, only to lead zigzag over a rocky bli. Big bowlders projectedTHROUGH TH all directing, the ‘crevices being filled with large clumps of orchids. A ew miles more and we teach Yetehe, where reigns a Nashi king, whose name is Lee He is exceedingly friendly to foreigners, and all strangers who pass through Yetche stop with him, Ik was he who in 1905 really saved the life of Mr. George Forrest, the botanical explorer. For days Forrest was hunted ‘hy Tibetan lamas, who had killed all the priests in the Mekong ‘Valley, Had they catyght him, lis head, too. would have graced the gate of Atuntze Inmasery, as tid that of Father Dubernard. King Lee is very hashful and yet digni- fied; he is the last surviving ruler of the Nashi as well as of the other tribes. living in his territory, which extends as far to. the west as the Irrawaddy. Even the Kjutzu pay him tribute, not in money, but iin kim. We spent a day in the king's commadi- lis establisliment, occupying a small gar dent ard veranda next to the private Tania chapel, for he, too, is of the Tibetan Church. All day Tong a Tama recited prayers, ac- companied ly the constant, quick heat of the drim, which was interripted oeca- sionally by the jingling of a bell. ‘The chapel is closed hy massive doors resem- Iiing those of a mattsoleam, with leopard tails attached ty Tiras rings fasteried to the center of each wing. PRENCH PRIEST SENDS AO KINDLY WARNING ‘The Mekong hecame more interesting: and the scenery much grandet, aswe pro- ceeded northward, A contingent of Nashi men, with head- quarters at Tsehchung, had beer collect- ing seeds for me on the great divides es arating the Mekong, the Yangtze, and the Salvin, and [new sent a messenger to in form them and Father Ouvrard, a French priest, who took the place of massacred Father Dubernard, of my approach. FE was comemplating the unpleasant [irespicct. of crossing the Mekong by a rope bridge at Tsehéehung when T was hailed ly my Nashi men from. the other side of the river at the rope hridge of ‘Teekut, T-shoiited that wee would go om to ‘Tsehelmmg andi there cross the rope. as it qwas said to be much shorter. Twas soon GREAT RIVER TR CHES GF ASTA 103 perstinded, however, that it was here I to, cross, as the Tsehehung bride was three mnths olel and therefore dan gerous. ‘The kind Father Quvrard had sent the men to urge me to use this Tseku rope bridge. MOVE BRIDGES ARE MADE EF TWISTED BAMBON "These bridges are’ an ingenious inven tion} they canbe employed only. across rivers flowing in trenehlike valleys, such as the Mekong and the Salwin. Along most of the Yangtze course they are im- possible, as the river is much broader and flows in wider valleys, and in regions where they could le used they are wn- known to the natives. ‘The rope bridge, now a purely Tibetan affair, may have heen adapted by the Til- tans from the Liten, Lissu, or other jum- gle people of the river valleys near Tibet The first prerequisite (ora rope bridge is a built-up platform on the hillside near the trail In this is buried for half its length a large post of cypress in which hutches are cut ty bold the rope in place after it has been. wound round the post (see illustrations, paves 138 and. 130). ‘The starting platform is usually from 100 to 250 feet abnve the river, while the laniling platform, an the opposite side, is from 25 (o 30 feet above the river, this providing a fairly steep decline, ‘There are two rope units for each crossing place. one affording an incline to the right hank and one to the left. ‘The topes are made of twisted strands of canebrake, a small bamboo (ste pages 149 and 150). A niecessary implement is the slider, 2 tinder made of strong oak wood, der fits over the rope. The tr tied into a rawhide yak strap or sling. in_which he sits as in a swing, ant) this is fastened to the slider through a wooden slot. Care must be taken to keep der straight, back ip, om the: rope, Thad not anticipated ernssing here and hoped te have one more hour's grace, Te was, hit difficult to make up one’s mind. 4 mese hoy was even more fearful than I; in fact, he had worried ahott the prospect from the day we started an this tnemorable trip.170 THE NATH wrt. For Sume of niy ii men hae We b ig which es over | ct, nor the necess ry resident of this val that h Heress at A desired, headman the village of chung, who had come with pack-mules ta take ow on to th or on the sliding dr of the first @ te take phote al crossing, T asked tw 11 propo end his waist. ned; as T feared tn it, suspended ppens to many 0} ich were t build ane weight. When sueh at the bridge, tu traveler mu: heavily from its own The prospect of 1 whieh starting pl would follow was about the tiv feet ahove the river,‘THROUGH THE GREAT RI there was none om aur side, we had to send thee heaiman back for a supply. YAR GUTTER 15 UI tHE 0 He tied himself in the lengthy sling and slid across, without ado, ate soon Te turn with butter and a bamboo the led with a greasy wil, which he poured on the rope in fhis face while Tt came my turn to ‘The only unpleas- mess I now recall is the preliminary of w tied on. T would re this exp ence as the admini of the an before an of gO. ation. As soon as Tw tied to the slider, over which I folded Tends, the h me by my cuat- mils and gently slid me ta the edge of the platform, Twas then suspenied for a mo- ment over the tops of the trees which grew on the steep bank. With a last word of advice to hold my head away from the rope, there was a yell of “Let go!” anit off L si into space, at the rate of 20 miles an hott. A plimpse of the roaring river far be- low me, a smell as of burning wood, cased by the friction of the stider, which ced over the unevenly braided, bumpy rope, and I kinded, like a heavy mule, on the rocky west hank of the rive My horses were terrified when their turn and when dangling helplessly in the air above the river they all their might, mouth open and tail up (see page Tso}, When the 1 on IVER TRENCHES OF {THE ATUNTER VALLEY Ane FREENDLY FOLK ge living in the arid region he atd-working. They dress ligitly, even ch, False hair oF thread The the o too frightened to stand. ter about three hours all my men, well as my baggage, were safely thnd It was a great relief to be across and have it over with, but thereafter 1 must confess T actually enjoyed sliding over ope bridges whenever I was assured they had not seen too long service. ‘A rope bridge is a conmunity affair ahd in this region costs the enuivalent about $3, the village paying Tor it. period of tsefull an ordinary eross- ing, not subjected to heavy traffic, is about ItsAI, GEOGRAPHIC days to the north, the ry of a Tibetan wor nds and wished to sailed forth across the bridge, much to tin of her hust: s hospitably given Caz n behind and took with us only rid- atses, beds, provisions, plenty of warm clothing and blankets, and all neces- raphic ON TIME TRAM, ‘To TIE SALWIN led back 0 before reaching that vil y the enorme st iver rock A glorious view unfol ur below tis roared the Mekon, the rope bridge of Tseku faintly visible in the « ta the cast, rose the massive Peimna: shan range, which separates the M. from the Yangtze ve 1609), ed. from pin wih of w ie, leadir first preliminary ridge, some 16 ve sea leTHROUGH THE GREAT RIVER TRENCHES OF ASIA SHEEP riLakin's TO TH DOKERLA Many ilzrimns to the Dokeria take with them their m pack animals tp curry meager provisions of barley flour i woo alter they have been across the Dolerla anil are never slaughter Sie a pattiral death. After their pilgrintage they are jentified into t ch ure asl, They sat, bat ate allowed y means of rei tassels threaded Magnificent scenery surrounded us: far below, the mysterious. Mekong in. its V apc trench; to the west cloudless Sila (Si Pass), the actual Mekong-Salwin di- vide, tow: with little snows in front a deep, cirenlar valley dissected by aterrent rushing madly toward the Me a ravit We were as in another world, overloak- ing a forest of fir trees (Cunninghaiaia) and more: than ded 1 feet in height. Great birch trees reared thousands of feet above x their crowns among the fics, forming a On we wandered through a more open « translucent anid con itifully against the somber CAMPING! AT AN ELVA FEET OF 10,5 0 ‘Through this hallowed shrine'ef trees we descended, across crystal brooks: bor- «d hy red-flowered hal ers, and daw rs, With peaks rising Jovely af foliage go feet atiove the forest of rhododendronis and bivches, fol- ground, lowing: a glacial stream to our camping Tt was the finest’ rain forest Thad ever place for the night rdly sat dawn on a. boiw! tation red the ground Thad hens festooned write my notes on t aved rho- two tiny birds paid a it and calmly cin my hand holding the pencil, ‘of greeting in utter fear- Hf they flew again into the seen. A mosiy carpet c and yellow, heardlike ant trees, while silvery dodendron trees formed the uidergrowih 3 in autumn tints, the map flow, others crimson, while the Fronze-colored, lossy bark of the birches, woods, rolled wp in wads on brilliant sunset over the snowelnd glistened in the morning sunfight, all s closed our happy day, ‘The sky Tessitess ; th14 THE NATIONAL GHC APHIC MAGAZINE The mechanical tepet believed hy slewaur ‘Tibetan ent them being jun Tepeaty the Wayer as many tines as it iw w uidlless i silvery ¢ néar-full moon shed storm raged among mere hookmarh 0 feet, came very icy only with dest difficulty, al not sufficient snow had fallen to ob! Hut by the time we ¢ tarry night escent is a due ELEN, he gi limb broug of the regular p dike « divide, blowing from the t. dendron; could gather more torn our backs on thi a hundred species on this ran at lescende To the right o was a snowclad ov 5 Tt had been made by missie ployed TLutau I some 16,000 feet a cireu! with pinnach limest TheHES OF ASIA TE AUTTCOR at THSUSEtrY OF TINE Pruansar ED DOREREA, MECCA OF T HRONCS ceiving three cents per day ani parallel tributaries flowing in deep; V is own food. shaped trenches; these must be cross At the foot of this enormous range before the m n be reache ws the Sewslongha, a tributary of the of these, Lit i § camped ina crit nse erected Doyorilongha to be ne hy tt orded us grate- following morning for ful she than the previou up. ‘The Salwin in the rainy r if noteolder, climbing te the summit ¢ 500 fect higher Snowtieldls pated by the risi ion hastwo ravine lay buried in purplish black178 THE NATIONAL GROGRAPHIC MAGAZIN nl the bill, on tap which the church and mis Twice it | ned | stance tan lamas o irepid stier, who still lives in alwin ‘Tjonatonys, bi for his Hive and find shelter ame Liss farther He is the only vivor of the ma of, 1905. The Lute who in spiritual ther Andre arn, the which staple f they thse for malin larder with Tt was hard to ec Nis sheepekitt coat he carries ameger sy RoOM-by and leave ei) barley floc him to wrestle with the coming winter post of a Christian mission, the surrounded by primitive Luteu, Tibetan Bakangor Pchanlo uf theChinese. We desceridéd to the Doyoulanig To me this is the loveliest mission imbedl the next divide, x hroad, bracken- raf which 1 know. Here li ardered by forests of li vt vriest. Father André birch, ani fought through the World W scattered Ta very bei Jot a soul was this remote spot, he has time to teflect bot a moaning sound and whom, ‘tH rule, no public monument u the Church of the Holy Ghost PALACE, POLAND'S WAIITE nce with the great composer's HOUSE c heart of Frédéric Chopin is phy view i Business ment enter with brief and remind f under their arms and sit or kneel White HauTHE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC M ROW THE FRUIT MARK This center of petty tratle is far ‘private dwe with: mill irom their Ins OF On the 1 women in vaby at her t pited by brief comma JF or ¢ the busi it th n with one In on mi rom hh rol levers to m m of the THY MORSE STILL RULES WABSAW’S it is still'a ht in the ica used COVERED PUBL WARSAW than the the natty208 THE N A BOATLOAD GF ARPLES US and a Claude Farrére novel were t selle: for tl pt at any given hour. eofted and ah ik or refreshment b W. S¥UpS, hiny rolls of chocol types of breadstuffsSTRUGGLING FOLAND TIE NEW POLAND MAS TORN DOWN THIS RUSSIAN CATHEDRAL IN WARSAW he three mosaics aver the soars of the west frant were among the finest in Essrope, every care Wie ike lo preserve these magnificent works of art dur (see text below). During the World War the the and telt it with a feaky roof, ‘The statue in the for trivesk Leinsig, in 181g. the wrist hack home h him up in Her shaw! and goes (see pragre 23:2) Near the food markets the fronts of several buildings are draped with piece goods, and across’ the rond is a dimly ligited shambles, where the shoddliest of wove goods, comfortless underwear, cardboard stitcases, and ugly finery are iid to those ton poor to nnn buy= nest wat (1s tue acth a watcher over by bulbous country women with honest faces, one comes to the i, where Y the native The Nalewki differs from Polish W: saw in that its buildings have wo. fi facades, but Joyenly hacks, Between and the there remains the Old 0.fvns male a marshal of France for fis belli ‘Town Sanare, orice the havnt of fashion, Some of the’ fine carved doorways still hint of ancient glories, ‘The row of medi- ses is,.in its general aspect, as fine as anything Warsaw can offer. Hidden away from casual gaze are narrow en- trance halls staireases: that once Jeamed with the heanty of ivary shoul ders, and where natty officers, emerging from their heavy avercoats, disclosed such a Lancers tiniform a5 made even-a callow youth look Tike a min of iron and. a ire: Here 1 talked with unkempt re who disliked me_ be cause America's prevent their Island. new immigration laws ning in droves wo Ellis WARSAW KEMO MBOLIZE vED CHURCH W RUSSIAN OPPit ‘There is nothing distinctive about the Warsaw skyline, Until recently the domi-NATIONAL GEOGRAPH! ¢ work MAGAZINE ing features of th the Ww the f tomes and 240-1 the time was bein n, carefully and ox WARSAW’S ROYAL PALACE ALS WIENSAILLES regaining the ooty which was. taken from them ji ther lands. From the Zamek d Lazienki palaces, in the ce fore the Wor! and durin k Fron without a stitchSTRUGGLING POLAND army. in retreat before the Germans are hack unharmed after years of adventure in disordered Europe, Ome treads the beautiful, marquetry: floors of the spacious Zamek Palace as he does the thick carpets of St. Sophia or the marble courts of the Kalyan Mosque at Bokhara, in flapping slippers. ‘There was a time when this royal palace was second only to Ver les. Rebuilt and redecorated after many disasters, the palace, now that its paintings and tapes- tries are back in place, is mmch the sme a8 it was when Merlini, Baceiarelli, and. Canaletto placed their skill at the disposal cof Poland's last royal patron of arts, ‘To-day thse spacions floors are empty, those splendid salons devoid of life. ‘The fatace remains. ‘The light laughter, the flash of coal-black eyes, the firtations, in- trigues, inanities, and wallowers made up the old life of Zamek are gone. Paintings and statuary, outliving their models, acquire a sardonic irony with age. tn-a medallion over one of the doors the handsome voluptiary, King Stanislaus, is pictured as Apollo and Catherine the Great as Minerva. Warsaw's Citadel, with its overworked execution grounds and infamous Pavilion X, was built to punish the Poles for the November Insurrection of 1836. Pavilion X was being torn down when T climbed plaster-cluttered stairways to see the cell where Pilsudski had been imprisoned. ‘As I passed the barracks, croweded with Polish youth, raw reentits were stuffing straw into lied bags imder the supervision of a petty ofeer, Others were devouririg army fare with their fingers. MORE THAN HALF (THE NATION’ pom TAKE VISTULA ernirs, From the Citadel walls one, looks dawn upon the Vistula, whose basin embraces most of Poland (see mapy page 213) and on whose hanks are more than half of the natinn's cities, Sadly neglected until how, it may become as important a water way as the Rhine or the Seine. ‘A few dirty steamers tie up tg the Wat- saw wharves. Under the Kierbedz bridge. women from the country moor their flat- boats, piled high with rosy-cheeked apples, Important reclamation works are in pr tess and a new foreshore is being: bi a here. When I visited the scene hundreds of women, many of them hare foot, were unloading fint ears and shoveling the earth down the new hank to fill ap the space lie- hind the weir of willow withes (gee ilias- tration Gn tere [save }. After the dirt and idl of the del, that busy. train of flat cars, dotted with bright bandanas and sweaters, was pleasant sight. AURILLIANT SPRCTACLE fs reovmnEn ny ‘THE DEVOUT PEASANTS ‘The nation offers no spectacle more colorful than the Sunday procession: in Lowicz (see page 215). iv rude farm wagons and or foot, ‘the peasants come from humble villages im the widespread plain whence Poland gets its name, ‘The abbey church, walled into a grassy: inclostrre. backs up ta a great cobliled square, On fine Sundays, each of the three entrances is a huverity plaice for a rainbow whose colors, intensified by fix- ing them in stiff, sturdy homespun, bell cuit in broad skirts and bright aprons, below which even a peasant foot, if eon- fined in a shiny high shoe with laces matching some color of the costume, has a pleasing grace. ‘Those shoes! Surely Cinderelia’s sis- ters suffered less from: footwear than these Polish women do. Economy its a limit on the time sich finery may be worn, but comfort also with pride, Up to the town’s edge the women stride, barefoot and carefree, with their shoes and stockings wrapped in a corner ni their capes or dangling frem ther. hands. ‘At the outskirts of the town they sit down on plaid steamer rigs, draw on their shoes with many a sizh and flush of cheek, tie with the greatest nivety the long laces whose crisscross decorates the front, and march hravely, éaverly, on to the’ aric colorful event of their drab week of (see page 214). ‘The mon, wearing lang frogeed conts and orange trousers stuffed into well Hlacked boots, stand in somber groups. from which the eye is lired away by gleaming masses of creamy silken hea shawls, long af fringe and worn without a wrinkle. Ais the women stand picked together in @ church whose altars, bright with gildedNATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZIN ™=T is little in. that modest display to suggest the rie rainbow that will soon flow forth from the main. church g south cobbled hovisand fragments be ands of family and beaux, many shining hel- mets of brass, who in women wait as rained by some invisible barrier which will yield only to numbers, ‘Then turn to the left and start the half hour procession in hich jiueple and gold ry and amaranth, e and royal blue, ted-brown een colors waren if own wi mre “arowsh oF Tire site” Warsaw residen quarters of one of the i which played so. pron Haltie countries. This veneral s sppesed nw that és done ¢ cially. AC tn suspended cut a shop procs highly colored yarns are such advertising methods 1 peasant women ! ire Lowicz courtyards hops whose reputation reaches iar seraphim, are clothed with’rainhow wool like that of apron and of skirt, the brit Jiant colors of their lower garments are coLox To THE TEAR LOW Itz 'S DELIGHT IN ally, froma pure-white scart and highly colored flower above the long braids of a engaged, a coronet of gold cial flowers woos the eye. Hut that mass of headshawls is gh they do in the mellow light idles and dew windows, there girl who is and arti lustrous gleam thot of many c: ancy dictates JF mmeny times, s the ta thes He enceSTRUGGLING POLAND ‘Davia by AL HY, Mimatesd JUSKETCH MAP OF TOLAND this leaving what will be a veritable bair- Tine of lemon or a broad band of blie, Sundays the peasants frankly “dress up,” as unspoiled children do, taking pride in the newness of the fabric, in its stiff ness and the hrilliancy of its chromatic scale, Homely though the women are, sturdy rather than lithe, the calm assur- ance and downright pleasure with which they parade their clothes mikes the most ‘blasé visitor smile with them at this un- blushing display. WILND 58 SURROUNDED TY LARGE ESTATES. All about Wilno, northernmost of Po- land's cities, there still remain large es- tates whost owners live in almost feudal magnificence, unaffected by such agrarian reforms as have split up the vast domains of Esthonia and Latvia. Wilno has.a Inconie but suggestive in- scription whose few strokes constitute # shorthand history of more than three cen= turies: On the wall of the university is a smal] marble with a shield bearing the white eazle of Poland and the pling- ing horse of the Lithuanian arms, Above js a crown, Below are three figures and three words? 1578 — 1803 — 1979 WNIWERSITET STEFANA TATOREGO ‘In 1578 Stephen Bathory promoted. a ‘émall parochial school to the rank of acad- emy, which soon drew to it many Polish intellectuals, n came war, famine, and pestilence to decimate the population. Though rade the pagan. capital of Lithuania in 1323, Wilno became Chris-re injures nome, will dream of the pagan t into the Chri future il hundred fifty-six years later th confirmed by a d lasted until Poland fell, of the thers, her lave to be rentest heroine. fh 1omany mi the Act bay which has ‘not of the land w ast of which wa 3). of whieh th “Nor can that enAven Ti Dee LEPELeoe MTS OF CHOCOLA Unie tian? f OVRNCAAEE THEIR COYNESS@ partitions thy itism that Cather found it politic to hold Prince Adam Ceartoryski as hosta which role he mi i that, he a Grand Duke Alexander, When that disciple of Rows seats became‘ nets farmed the moribund Academy of Wil into a university and named camp extrator. § 1803" on the hh tribute to a plague, a Poll Russian ‘T'sar. yski lost no. time in ing his new university: a ctil- tural and anda with an ind P s ideal, But Ceartory < Polish nobility’soan’ deserted Alexander ta: follow Napoleon's ish youths to tmimber of 70,000 rished to ume the dashing Lancers uni- form, which has transformed fat ors into military f Napol the in. whose z gionnaires had played a Polish gentry found ves, for the ‘steenth time, A TUMAN EXPRESS WAGON wrong horse. With ated on a shallow bay versity of Wilno was suppressed. In 1919 hy a sand fishhook ending im Hel its operiing was one of the first acts of the last is a spotless town, whose half ¢ oles after freeing Wilno from the E est the Hollanders, Zeelanders, and sheviks at Eastertime. jucation, Jang Frisians whom Albert the Bear weleome:d secretly purchased at a great price, now as colonists and to whom the portion « invaluable though free. which lies below ATI PLAC! POLAND'S CHIEF ¥ 7 : Pree an ambitious but de Pharos, and a and cobwebbed with nets. There casino and a hotel called the Pol Riviera. Tf the long pier which ties the shelving shore to the , my next goal, is in the same. comgruous. y as Wilno, but Lithuania, dba the Free City of Da separate the two. Gdynit rely off the Vistul Polar228 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE with str Much ofenireatr Charles XU, Festare i 3706. Ht is- at gires 2 failure, the pleasure pier may offeet the loss, for it is decreed that Gdynia is wo | the rival of Zabhot as well as of Dam For the present, the beach at Gdynia 1s charming ‘enough on one of those Inte Oetobs ye when the hills sre golden and white clouds scurry across the blue. The fisheries use fine-meshel nets, some of which, sitspended from high frame: sway in the biting breeze, Others hang from rude stakes, so that they ple the wind, their siperimposed meshes mak- 1 ever-changing, watered-sifl: design, hind which dark-clothed fishers move & phuntoms (see 2 The c “For men must work and women must weep} And the sooner it's over, the sooner {o sleep,” has been im- proved on by the Kaszubes tribesmen. of mysterieus origin who dwell in this Pol- ish corridor. ‘They have discovered that hy omitting the weeping and making the women doa full share of the share work, the well-earned sleep may come earlier for all hands. ‘Antiquated boats, siwed in halves and h century, this historic nally captures! and ct owtied by a Polish peince, who 4s tl UCCLING POLAND 23 DE AIDEN NORTIERS POLASE whold withstood Hees ly destroyed by the Swedes, amater ing upended on the shelters for the tackl back and forth across the shifting sands, hent low «ner burdens of driftwood, In spite of gawky picrs and gandy villas, Gdynia és still picturesque. h. form ailegta ‘OW women plod ie stest MODERN CETY oF THE REPUBLIC Pounan is the most thoronghly Polish and most modem city in. the republic. cradle of The morning of my arrival th the Polish race was half hid by a mist which gave grace to the bulky palace of the Kaiser, added just the proper note of northern softness to the classic ingade of the Raceyneki Library, and banished the ugly from the buildings overhanging the Warta, in whose dark waters great hocks of ice were slowly Hoating. In the Poznan Cathedral rest the ashes of Poland's first kings, and here their ues stand like royal actors in a histor ical pageant, “There is something splendid abet: the little gold chapel in this dusty old church on the tranquil island where the firstWITERE POLAND DREAMS OF BYTE286 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE gar a bl caves an int in thewow (SEE MAT, ? wal hearth in the village: A aivall atove, biite Hato’ater Phongeaph tie Jy Keieger AT RRAKOW, AS SERN FROM THER NRIDGR TO TH wust (SKE PAGES 233-235) TH WAWEL The Vistula (Polish, Wisla the city p a sharp curve fo the south: and thus avoids hay miarkel place where horses are gqld at reas AWeieliiel) Frere m e Wawel is a largressively Pol na city wh thine re th Carpath jumble of me called the the wuntain resort, autiful situa the Zakopane wooden houses, whic Dz. Chal in 1873, Bs (see attractive pror ¢ mountains to. climb, an s ab Sither it alutely. the tradition that it is dat! is Round abeut Zakopane live the Gorals ‘oF mountaineers, who come down to the Ix TRAD Sund sy bed and the ¢ the women, ¢ picturesque note White: home felt, com haped in to fit trousers, alm ¢ low aver i { heel and pom above the shoe and mn in iors cts, ¢ most strilk ¢ dull white ny yellon coats oF co de appliqué work and stitched peed designs, The hat of black felt single cof white beads for a band, is shaped vf the doughboy232 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE mountaineer costume worn by townsmen d farmers of the af Wielic ftom hundred for and gives a clue to what follows, and only tho: should the hoist, he i tuy sonven and sof the white not of a salt mine with rock-salt wed in spite of th ey we Pla wite is there. but the post ate! ésh- man fol lithe you below t cards idreds of feet with a tray of sptrv in otder to induce them al mail hos. to see some o| the wiatect ¢ play. Probably them were Gorals, for « i ing to Ne @ 1,500 worlSTRUGGLING POLAND 239 5 forbidden to are bei visit t ner Krake mart which won in of Hun er of Danz assed work f n st Colum!ZAKGPANI FROM THE Minys TO TI NORTHWEST 241), WIT THM POLAND-CRECIIOSLOVARIA NOLNDARY N THE IAC In aummer, visitors who hive the jiroper visas wander back nih betwee liticalSTRUGGLING POLAND smashed the wheel of land-born com- merce of which Krakow was the hub. The royal court deserted. this charming city for Warsaw and disease humbled what had heen a, proud metrapolis, From the station one follows the beau tiful gardens, which have replaced the medieval moat and walls, and almwnt im- mediately comes spon the Rondel, a circti- lar harhican. spired with pepper-hox tow- ers and looking strangely old-fashioned in front of the new building af the Bank af Poland and the Grunwald Monument, which Palerewski gave to the nation five Inmidred years alter the Polish victory. KRAKOW HAS ONE OF THE FINEST SQUAKES IN EUROPE ‘Through the one surviving gate out of Six, one goes past a small, shadowy slirine set in the wall and in a few minutes stands in one af the finest squares in Europe, Qn the tight is the tower of the old town hall “A fascinating market hall fills the center and the Church of Panna Marya lifts its two tihieqtial towers at the left.” Latér, one comes upon the restored chapel of St. Adalbert, Apostle to the Poles. now attended hy cabbies and su colibles, but ance hidden eval forest. ites farther on, one teaches the Wawel (see page 229)—cathedral, palace, fortress, and national monument— onee bought by the Potes to free it frei Austrian troops and presented to the Aus- trian Emperor. Each donor of innds for restoring the historic tinildings has his name on one of the blocks which form the Jower walls, The Panna Marya Chrireh stands out not only above the many churches of the former capital, hut of all Poland, Com- ing in from cold streets where rowed beggars cringe heside the door, one stands in wonder under a vault second only to that of Strasbourg, ‘The church warms the eye with its polychrome mural decorations and rests the soul with its vast peacefulness, At the far end, there is the glitter of candles and above a wonderful altar screen, de- picting scenes from the life af Mary and Jesus, is rich stained glass, seemingly brighter than the bleak day outside, In Krakow and throughout Little Po- land, or Galicia. one senses the greater rounded degree of freedom and autonomy which the Austrian Poles enjoyed, Street names niceded no changing with the advent of Polish tikerty i was not hidden ina chorchyard, as in Poznan, but stood foursyuare to the view on the great market pila ‘The most famous painting in the N; tional Museam at Krakow is Siemiradzk “The Torches of Nero," which the Cwsar, reclining in his’ gorgeous chair, carried by Numidian slaves and with b pet tiger beside him, sits in the midst of an orgy in his gardens and watches the torches being applied to the inflammable material in which the Christian martyrs are wrapped, It is-a picture of the jazz age of Rome, when snowy togas were stained with wine and Christian beards with blood, One tist turn aside from Siemiradehi to Sienkiewicz to get the full meaning of the picture, In casting about for a char- acter who entild personify oppression and teardom, stupefied by its ‘own power, both painter and novelist, as though by com- mon consent, chose Neto. Both used the early Christian martyrs as prototypes of the Poles, ‘The lovely Lygea and Ursus, who saved. her, were Lybiens or Sarwnatians, ances- tors of the Poles when the Slavic tide in- undated much of Prussia, THT NATIONAL MUSEUAE REFLECTS THE NATION Matejko anid Siemirndcki had some- thing of the grand manner of a M angeloy but there are human touches in the National Museum. - lonely shepherd boy, wooing the midst of an immense plain, a fitting companion picee to. Millet's “Fhe Shep- hewdless Falat’s brightly dressed spinner, who wonders whether to welcome or repel the advances her colorful dress and_per- sonal charm have inspired; Arthur Grott= yer's gentle damning of war in the “Lithuania” series; Franciszek Streit’s Polish counterparts of Huck Finn and ‘Tom Sawyer; and, most appealing of all. Malezewski’s picture of blonde death in a brown hut furnished with tawny furs, All these show such painstaking care and feeling as Chopin poured. into. his music, Copernicus and Mme, Curie into scicntific studies, Paderewski into piano-23 THE NATIONAL, GI Both sumn playing, Conrad. into “I Revmont into "The Peasan THE-RYNEK BY MOONLIGHT. being traditional, by his I firstSTRUGCLI anis 1s a defense against the ‘Tatars, Lwot Iisin won tt a posing buildin! ali ind culptors lavished atl imaginary Fin from 25,000,000 racial and re in the to ane ‘The main bre the © the Poles two Lavoe sh from pl E are made pwet chareh spire: domes, steeple Lwow has. thre thedrals with a Ca lic archbishop, a Un Metropolitan, and an fhe eight ian bishop. None of these churches serves the people ene meets—sinister black felt hats with flat id such side euirls le in Wars ww, and red wig i interesting Most of the fish vd a customer chooses ing to its agility. This Id storage enables the y over the ninsold stocks the odor. e and im tubs, dinner 2 stihstitute for dealers toc irom motest Poland pss the repuil em tin of the i carried by the wai ny, te see 1 from free < who sought refuge in i + men who Ww d with by ue and almost nnitaineers BARE AMAZONS ov Zan War has Te the me of except in Poland, It ving Czere- its come fromthe OX THH ROAD ‘to Lam this world thete are the pom-pors Which form fs every: inatication that n of this type of Huzul costume (eee, also, illustration watching her cows, You’ can to-morrow I shall have my pice €TRAPHIC MAGAZINEOGLING Pal In the United $ cording to whit part wiles to visit Were it not e Huzuls, who come down to the Sundays, Zabie would not he gut with the Huzuls and the is another story ivir pipes newly Mp OF A of them, On nked with the handsomest wane ve even seen, inch well-bred! Georgian girls of Cancasus who ed on table at the Red Cross ns in Tiflis during the war. Perhaps an inch short of six feet, erect and deep with color in her olive and a soring in her mioccasined HICTURESQUE INP shares the Aral ond Her scarf ly od is not ¢ ste, Her white blouse © Jam fatink for oidery ders. Over ihe down the front by. shiny avy liner s, with OW. & graceful cane complet yell Nowhere in: Polan free from e willing, withenit be the time be: t, and only t L-natited ciop get the pictur ome of the most cormersof the republ men showed em- ant me ta harrassment,THE NATIONAL GE PHIC MAGAZ et oF Zante PEASA’ RAMI TIL well, anit as 0 Jeanly atid their finery, 1 a charm, ify Spit y remind ane of American Indian squawa. Vf the Lace of one « an, Eslitna le company into. roars she cheerfally—and ntme charai 1 pip ma man, fips, and it ay hetween her told The pipe v 1 wantes picture nny When she pur nized the Carpat wid bit of color conghing coved that she was friendliness. f slowly away, like a a handmaiden of Lady Nicotine, but candle that bu out. INDEX FOR JANUARY-JUNE, 1926, VOLUME READY Index for Volume XLIX (JunueryJune, 1926) of che National Geogeaphle Magazine will he mailed to members upon requestSIENA'S PALIO, AN ITALIAN INHERITANCE FROM THE MIDDLE AGES By Marte Louise Hanpiey thrill in the air, as if of some porten- tows event about to occur, And well there tight he, for Siena the classic, Sietia the medieval, was about to celebrate its great annual civic festival, the Palio, a striking pageant inherited from the Middle Ages, still held in the costume of the period, and featured by the canning of a strange, almost barbaric, horse race on the hiswirie Campa, ‘There is no other place in the world where one may lay hand so palpably on the Middle Ages as in Siena, Thi arehi- tecture, the customs, the very peuple, have a touch of bygone days,” It gives the impression of a segment of the fif- teenth century passeil own to modern times, with its good and evil, and, ‘above all, with its intense local attachments, practically unchanged. For upward of four hindred years the little Tuscan city has been organized as it is tow, in coutrade, of wards, cach a dis tinct and séparate entity, the part of the common life, ch still clings to its: own individual traditions, its own loves and hates. and is ready to rally to the same flag and colors that it has cherished R= earliest morning there was a ‘This gives to Sicna a_ characteristic atmnsphere, which more than anything, save its art, has contributed to center pen it the continued interest uf the traveler. THE HALIONA B M ANCHENT RIVALRY As to the Palio, it is a remarkable manifestation of that keen, burning rivalry Vetween cantrade which has existed since their inception and which time and the Bassing of events leave tens nable to fla In seeking the origin of this strange Norse race we must hail hack to the zest for sport, the spirit of gallant contest, and! the love for honmp and display so prevalent in the Mi Ages The most remote records of of jonsting and tournaments ing Gf ilistrions visitors. w. ‘The conn ever the oceasion for festivals of this mature, and we read that a8 far back as 1225 a “noble jand fair HIE" took place outaide’ot Porta Camollia, Later, bullights were adopted, only to be suppressed in 1390 by Ferdinaul 1, and races on inaffalo-back seem for a time to have taken their place. ‘There is evidence aplenty, however, that even in eatly times horse-racing was a favorite: pastime of the Sienese, We are told, im fact, that in rgg2 a horse owned by the famous, or infamons. Cesare Borgia, won an importatit event, probably the predecessor of the Palio, al- though the chronicles mention that it was run through the streets instead of on the public square, as now. ‘The first Palin took place on the Campo in 1605 and has been tegnlarly schealted since 1651. In its present form, with all the contrade represented, and the distance established at three times around the hig sure, the race has heen held since 1636. STANCE RACK PRORAURY HAD RELIGIONS ORIGEN It has been established almost beyond doubt that the Palio was introduced. to celebrate a religious anniversary, the feast Santa Maria Assunta, whose image is ed on the banner bestowed upon the winner. At ane time Siena’s 47 contrade all participated in the Palio, each entering one horse, but, owing to the frequency of setiaus accidents, experienced through the overcronedinig of the narrow track. ‘the number of contestants is now. limited to. ten, Seven of the contratle are privileged and rit by “right,” as they express it, ‘wlide the dives dtkers are drawa by ‘ot: The horsemen ride bareback, in the Palio, armed with a punishing whip, the nerbo, male of twisted, hardened ox sinew and ineasnring about three fect. This whip plavs an important role. In the olen days a long, flexthle one was used, and the competiturs were allowed to eld if s0a8 to entangle their apponeats ar) throw thenrs but this practice is now forbidden, 245reed24s atid tiotints grow Letter nequainted, and eventually they come to a mutual under standing. At last tlie great day dawns and the im- perative stemmons of sonbrotts bell tells us it is time to be stirring, ‘The hour is cotily five, but the city is already’ in turmoil, ‘we sally forth under the cloudless sky of an August morning. ‘The streets are packed from wall to wall, and following the streaming popu- lace, we are led to the vetive chapel on the Piazza, a shrine erected in thanks- giving for deliverance frany the plague of. 138 Mass is being celebrated and the little church is crowded with men, only a few women hanging about the outskirts. Over the heads of the worshipers we can see the ten riders, in full colors, kneeling shoulder to shoulder im front of the altar, the bitter rivalry of faction hel in check during this brief interval of prayer. ‘Then the ceremony is over anid we are again in the streets, now alive with the sthdued roar of mustering thousands. Every familiar language ingles in the general iabble; most af the civilized na- tions seem to be represented in the throng about us; yet on every lip, native or for- eign, ik but one topie—the Palio. WE CHOOSE A CILAMTION We had set ont with mild, amused curiosity; Init it was impossible to resist the galvanic touch of the throbbing in terest on all sides, And presently we were asking ourselves to what quarter of town we belonged: which horse was ours; who was to tide for we; what his colors were? ‘These matters had unex- pectedly become of vital importance. Ohwiously, it was to the quarter in which we had taken lodgings that we owed allegiance, and we posted ourselves without delay. It proved tu he the Con trads dell” Gea, its emblem a goose, and we went at once in sexrch of our favorite. A few coppers induced a passing lad to conduct 1s to the phice where the horse wis stalled, and we caught sight, behind aowire netting, of a glossy, chean-limbed fay, with long, smooth running gear, a fine, intelligent head, and apparently in the pink of condition. We felt elated, Meanwhile our young escort had: in- formed us that the racers were shortly 10 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE be blessed by the priest, the ceremony to mnke place in churehes ‘of the respective wartls; 0 we sautitered over to the Ora- tory of Santa Caterina, where oar cham= pion would be taken, Tb was not long Iefore the chaplain came froin the sacristy, book in hand, surplice anil stole over his cassock, and the alter tapers were then lighted. Almost immedintely a commotion in the crowd annonnced the approach af the horse, aud the priest urgently pleaded for silence, that the nervous animal might not he frightened. In the perfect stillness that followed we lieard the stimp of hoofs on the pave- ment, then at the threshold. and the Treautifill creatine was led up the aisle to the altar steps by the rider himself. ‘The noble beast stood motionless, while the Latin benettiction was read, then holy water was sprinkled over his proud head, and the ceremony was over, But the picture remmins with me to this day—strange, extraordinary, even weird. T can still see the shadowy altar starred with lights, the shitting enat of the sal- Innit racer, andl the man, magnificent in his parade dress of green velvet: stashed with white satin, vermilion undersleeves and vest, feathered ¢aji erished in hand — avstriking group, like a scrap of the past enacted before us in some mayie way, PARADERS WEAR SINTRENTIC-CENTIRY, cosry Tt-was now time for the procession of the delegations from the varions eontrad Tt has heen the sage ever since the six« teenth century for these contrade to. np- pear iv full regalia on. all momentons oc~ casions, Fach still disports the gorgeous costumes of the period and hears the ward Yanner, Mazened with the device origi- nally adopted, stich as the Lian, the Cater pillar, the Goose, the Ram, ete. which give to the various distriets the naines by which they aré known, ‘The procession. of cour: remained an important fea- ture of the Palio, We repaired to the Campo to wateh the parade, and it proved an imposing sight, Fach contrada formed a eeparate group, preceded by a drum tmajor. who set the pace and signaled the stops and advances, aa required, Behind him marched two ensign-bearers,SLENA'S whost flag-play proved one af the most attrnetive features of the parude, ‘The contrade would each jrauise in torn, a4 they passed the dwellings of the city authorities ancl the palaces of the nobles, that, homer imaght be shown the inmates with a skilled display of ensign-waving. (see faye 258). Following the ensigu-bearers came cayitain ef the qnatter, encased in full armor and surrounded by four youths, two burdened with his weapons of war, the other two carrying halbertls and act- ing as escorts. ‘Next marched a page in gorgenus rai- ment, hearing the ward standard, a great banner of silk and velvet, heavily m= broidered im gold and blazoned with the armorials of the district, ‘Then came a palfrenier, leading the contrada racer, handsomely caparisoned and plumed, followed by the ehosen rider mnuinted (70 a charger and attired in the garb of his fellow wardinen. ‘The ten contrade having cantlilates for the Palio headed the procession; then, sandwiched in between. them and the others, strode the Chief Magistrate of Siena, supreme arhiter of all factional strife, and the city officers. Rolling in the cear of the last cortrada was the war chariot of olden days—ugly, imibertonie,. sid eilaprdaicd, ‘bet peily decorated with flags and shields and drawn hy four great horses, A of men at arms trailed the old war chariot and closed the procession, ‘The Jast row of them had barely left the Campo when a great heating of drams announced that the mounted riders had come through the portals of the Podesti, and every neck was craned to get a glimpse of the prancing horses a they went to the barrier, A TENSE SILENCE AWAITS Trt S1ARY ‘There was silence now on the big square, a silence of vibrant antiripation, With quickening pulse. every man, and woman waited the sharp crack af the pistol, Which was to reledse the eager horses fretting behind the harrier. It came snddenty, almost unexpectedly, and the blood leaped into action zt the sight which followed. In serried ranks the racers sprang for- ward, moving at terrifie pace, their riders silting as if a part of them—knees tight, FALIO 257 hodies: swayiny: nimbly, arms waving the wicked whips and administering great blows right and left. Sparks and sand flew from the horses’ thoots ithe crowd leaned forward without @ sound, thrilled and expéctant. ‘Then, abruptly, a ery of alarm broke the silence, At the sharp tum by S$. Martino, where the course slopes suddenly, a man had Ieen flung to the pavement, his horse stumbling and rolling over. 4 closed my eyes as the others pounded by the hid- died figure, for it seemed impossible that the flying hoofs could avoid it. A sigh of relict told me that iy some miracle the rider had escaped, and 1 looked again, to see him struggle 10 his fect and stagger slowly tmward the paling. Tt was none too scom; the racing cen- taurs were flashing by him once more. Harder and harder the pelting horses strove, as the last wis entered. Birt now the crowd had come to life and hurled frenzied yells of encouragement or Doodeurdling threats and curses at the riders. Oca, our own contraia entry, was leading, neck to neck with the Mon- tone entry, and, thrilled to the marrow. 1 forgot all decorum and added my voice te the shouting. chorus, carried away hy the electrifying enthusiasm all aroud, OCA WINS IN THE HOM STRETCH Montone pressed forward at the mn, and a fieret execration broke from the Ocaioli, to be followed immediately by a ery of joy; for Morello, our hope, re- sponded valiantly to the challenge and again drew alireast of hit rival, Nose to nose they thundered toward the stretch—now one, now the other a few inches ahead; then, on straightening ottt, Momtone made ‘his last bid, and 1 grew suvklenly cold, for his head soon showed clear. ‘But it was the dying effort of the game cfeature, Ten lengths from the ‘post Morello began to creep up, eye aflame, nostrils quivering. 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BALTIMORE, WO, Unmounted Photos Easily Displayed on Walls with Moore Push-Pins Does your your English Hel lp or Hurt you? 10c. Pkts. Dashes Co., Philadelphia, Pa. ee Cesgraphle—tt identifies you,"Are You Ashamed of Your FLoors? Your Gas Company Can Heat Your HomeTHERE ARE TIMES WHEN ONLY A MARMON WILL DO Af wer, slippery uphill curve in an vinkoown and « 47a impulse to:harey but caution waming you to ease up on the foot throttleand feel your way. Underchese'circume ‘stances the owner of a Marmon makes his own ground males » He knows he can trust to the balance of his cat and maintain the same cheerful dip... inimicable spring construce Ges ili, if deieod, ont comcenicat credit plan - tion... poite as fine a§ the most evenly keeled yacht .... a smoorhly-fed. corrent of never-filling power... these are things that tines eatied ?or Maitnoel tha operation of bes ing the sweerest road car on earth and given every Marmoa owner his priceless road confi- dence... . Truly, there are times. when only a Marmon will do! ‘Teovdve istbuct madels tn chacte fromNATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY GEOGRAPHIC ADMINISTEATION BUILDINGS SINTEENTH AND M STREETS NORTHWEST. WASHINGTON, D.C. GILMERT GROSVENOR, Prealdent HENRY WITTE, Videdresident JOUN OLIVER LAGDRCE, Vie reste ©, t AUSTIN, Seereury JOUN JOY EDSON, Treasure: GEO. W. MUTCHISON, Asoctite Secretary: FRED SM, BERTHRONG, Asniecant Treavarer EDWIN P, GROSVENOR, General Connsel FREDERICK V. COVILLE, Chairman Committer on Kesearch RXECUTIVE STAID GF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE GILBERT GROSVENOR, coiron JOUN OLIVE LAGORCE, Amociate Esitne WIKbiaM J. SHOWALTER TALPTE A. GRAVES FRANKLIN L. vtsyitit ‘Aumiatant Heiter vel of Allustratione Division i Fadi JR, HE BENTANE, hie uk senadt Bervice BOARD OF TRUSTEES WILLIAM HOWARD ‘Tarr ‘Cosel Jugnice of the United States SG DAWES CHARIS J. BELL the United it Amerncat Satteity anal *ieae Comnany ONN JOY EUSOS iii Igaelingace IN 2G Be bona, wasn “Stata ‘Shin "Riow Maton san ro a cM. cHesren, DAVID FATRCHE.D esr Admiral U.S. Navy, Foe ‘Ta ebarge of vAericulratal Ks i Sar iisratieok. Us Denartme: Oe TAgrienluare tha Oe EN icamy ake 6.0, AUSTIN JOHN MARTON 4. remo American Beil (Ch Company oo . a J. MOWwARN ORR, Peat. Berit M Gearge: Wastin eoyiinit Depnrsracat of OR Tistor ut Sutiuusl Geographic Univcrsep auntie PERDERICK Werte BS RUDOLPH ‘Managing a 1 TITTMARY, test U.S, Gin "anil owdebe Suse EAUTOMANY. Editar The Evening Hayy WHITE Memier Aperiiag, Trade. Cpa oak, Fe Ace Tamales US" rales tus, cee AMES ial Naturalist. and (Cooree. QWlidtprme "Photographer # LmsTeR JONES Dipecton ‘detic Survey JOY _OMVER LAgancr ine’ Fslitoe "Nati Te MATHER National Parke Service ORGANIZED FOR “THE INCHEASE AND DIFFUSION OF GEOGRAPHIC KNOWLEDGI TO cairy ott the phitposes for which i founded thirty-eight, years 2 ‘the National eagraphie Society yi ix Magtzine | THE ‘Society aio tad the honor, of snb- Se eae Eta Ciulses scribing a substantial stra to the expedition Sreaiy te remote eeoevinllt otowlndae : GE Aiea Peary, wha ‘duacresed the arly Tide. INETIGHES. a’ piotgrapin afecdiared, Sener Penh oe even bsitveting arr x Harge alusce if ut kavinleder of a chillsation waning wien Phsarro drat wet footin Bera, For material which the’ Masarine, ean tse, remuneration isvatde. Captributions. sboald Ee'teanmpanied by an adiresed selurn envelope 22 poate. IMMEDIATELY after the terrific eeuntin of the worlis Tangent ceatgr, Mi. Kea 1 Nisiteal Goprepine Sotiery napa uke olsereatioen bf aie rears p med und the ex iyo t te a irate ei an vignth end et the. world Sheps ai expined The atey nt Ten ion prea samme at te Simme, spot fastres, Aba. Fall ot Toe sciers lincenerten abla rea'hea heen ecoated Natioral Alormment pre ine Prowident of the ened Beaten, AT an expense of over $50,000 The Society sent a notable serics of expeditions into Pera tov inwestipate the traces ef the Tsca race ‘Their NOT long ago ‘The Society granted $25.000, ana in addition $73,000 was piven by iividual ery athe Comers wh Teale ot the lant sei Sieve thereby saved fer the Ameer peo: THE Society is coniluctiniy extensive explora tions and. exeavations im northwestern New Dexico, which was oie of the mnst densely populated ta" Nerit’ America belare ‘Columb ete, a fering where pretiatorie. peoples fived ia. vast eons nanal daeihings and wligac casttans, exazamon iy od Fama fave been etccifed kn act ehitvien, ‘THE Society als {¢ maintaining expeditions in the unknown rex adjacent to. the Ss Trak River “fa ea Kerishow, and Ka olentie neal. Comrtinkt,. 1928 ty ighta rescrerd. Eatered al the Bort Oipee at W mailing at special rate sf (postaer printed | National Geojraphic Sealey. Winton, D. Cin ing Seca Ty Se HU her of ‘Oenaber 4, 101,Few perqaine realier, exexpt le general way. that the winile fsxructore of good beach may Freak dawn when feet seeny, Feast ask yout desist pr pr sictany Either one will yoda ut the tragic eoonequrne=s rour yest. You ee kidney te fad cancer of mouth—cam Be fot tooth tontlt decry, toe ty tor the Ce Ltneeme: Greenies post emacs Sate (he tee Isa tga, Sa Giek base mag Feels rd {Se omer a at Ertan iene ine ferthe Beslthy. yy ine tooth decay—Kar ae prt Wiley Dental Create has waza been ig the forefrant of thie nny tbe. etter beet “He Said My Teeth Were Diamonds in the Moonlight” E HAD just danced together for the last time Dick's. vacation ended the next day, so we went to the beach to tall alittle . . . and to say goodbye. “Helen,” he said, after we'd found @ seat on a. fisherman's ap ned boat, “your smile the most joyful thing there i your tech are dia- monds in the moonlight. bos T could have added “Thanks te Colrate’ hat why five away one’s beawty secret? Do. you possess. the charm of Kinet tsuting' wate braican hedutiful teeth? Do yours flash white and lovely when you tall and smile? Ribwon Dental gmake your tecth giisten gloriously. Tt will whiten them anit brihg out all their natural beauty, But inore important 20 4 will help to keep your teeth and gums healthy, fur Col iate's foams into every hard. fogetat place between the teeth and under the edges of the gum: Remove Those Causes of Decay Colgate’s penetrates every place where it is possible for Kerma and food particles colleet.. ‘Th impurities away, leaving teeth and cima absolutely clean, “The warm, dark in- terior of your mouth is a ideal breeding phice , fe germs. But they can't irk there and multiply: whea you use Colgate's regutarly. Col- Rate’s terally goes right | their hiding places anf remonea those cmser of tooth decay. Your mouth feels clean after using Colgate’s and it is clean, You'll tite the taste of Colgate’s even chil- dren love to use it regularly