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The needle loop

VASANT R KOTHARI The upper part of the loop produced by


has done Master’s in Textiles the needle drawing the yarn is called the
needle loop. It is the basic unit of a knitted
Technology from DKTE’s
structure. Each stitch or knitted loop
Textile and Engineering
consists of a top arc (head), two legs and
Institute, Ichalkaranji (Shivaji two bottom half-arcs (feet).
University, Kolhapur),
At the base of each leg is a foot, which
Maharashtra. He has also meshes through the head of the loop
done Diploma in Export formed at the previous knitting cycle,
Management (Apparel Export) usually by that needle. The yarn passes
from the Indian Institute of from the foot of one loop into the foot and
Export Management, and leg of the next loop formed by it.
Garment Export and
The sinker loop
Merchandising Management The lower part of the knitted loop is
from NIFT, Bangalore. technically referred as sinker loop. It is the
Presently, he’s working as an piece of yarn that joins one weft-knitted
Assistant Professor in needle loop to the next. On bearded needle
Department of Fashion weft knitting machines, loop-forming
sinkers form the sinker loops in
Technology, NIFT, Bangalore.
succession between the needles – hence Fig 5.1: Components of needle loop
(This is his seventh input from
the origin of the term sinker loop. On latch
the series of articles in needle weft knitting machines, however,
Knitting Views) the sinker loops are automatically formed
as the needles, in succession, draw their
new loops.

22/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2011


Fig 5.2: Intermeshing points of a needle loop

Needle Loop Fig 5.7: Face side of plain knitted fabric

Fig 5.5: The knitted stitch

the head of the lower previously-formed


loop and is, in turn, intermeshed through
its head by the loop above it.
The repeat unit of a stitch is the minimum
Sinker Loop
repeat of intermeshed loops that can be
Fig 5.3: Needle loop and sinker loop
placed adjoining other repeat units in
order to build up an unbroken sequence
Face loop in width and depth Fig 5.8: Back side of plain knitted fabric
During loop formation, when the new loop
emerges through the old loop from back For a stitch, depending on the position of
to the face (or front) side, it is called as the legs at the binding points, a technical
face loop or weft knit loop. back and a technical front side is defined.

Face Loop Back Loop

Face

The technical back of a stitch The technical front of a stitch


Fig 5.4: Face loop and back loop
Fig 5.6
Back loop
If the new loop passes from the face side Technical face
to the back side of old loop, it is called as The side of knitted fabric that consists all
Back
back loop or weft purl loop. of face or knit loops, is called as technical
face of the fabric. It is the front side of fabric. Fig 5.9: Technical face and back of single
The knitted stitch jersey fabric
The knitted stitch is the basic unit of Technical back
intermeshing which usually consists of The side of knitted fabric having full of back Knitting notations
three or more intermeshed needle loops. or purl loops, is called as the technical back A knitting notation is a simple, easily-
The centre loop has been drawn through of the fabric. It is the back side of the fabric. understood, symbolic representation of

KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2011/ 23


a knitting repeat sequence and its resultant Basically two methods are recognised for Graph paper
fabric structure that eliminates the need knitting notations: This method is developed by the Leicester
for time-consuming and possibly 1. Point paper 2. Graph paper School of Textiles for weft knitting only.
confusing sketches and written In this method each square represents a
Point paper
descriptions. needle or stitch. An ‘X’ symbol is placed
Each point represents a needle in plain view
in a square where a face stitch occurs and
from above and, after the thread path has
New Loop an ‘O’ where there is a reverse stitch
been drawn, it also represents its stitch. Each
horizontal row of points thus represents
Face loop adjacent needles during the same knitting
stitch and cycle and the course produced by them. The
notation lowest row of points represents the starting
course in knitting.

Old loop

Fig 5.10

New Loop

Reverse
loop stitch
and
notation

Fig 5.12: Graph paper notations of various


Old loop knitting designs

www.vasantkothari.com
Fig 5.12: Point paper notations of various
Fig 5.11 knitting designs

24/KNITTING VIEWS/JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2011