E F G S J 2

AD30VT modification
for FX insert and return
signal
 C17 C30

0.1uF 220uF/35V
ceramic
-Vss(-30V)

Q5
KTC2874 R45 R29 22k
Even though
2.2k the AD30VT is a great R46tone little amp, it lacks a simple feature that it doesn´t
10 (1W)
C
necessarily adds a lot of production cost to Vox. And this feature is very useful for all guitar
C47 NU
players: the effects in ceramic
and out jacks for external signal processing.
C35
+ C33 0.22uF
I asked 47uF/35V
myself if this
could be simply added. And having the Service Manual, where there
are the schematics and block diagrams, I started analyzing where this mod could be done.
So I called my father who is an electronic engineer, analyzed the schematic, and spotted
the place where we would bypass the signal. That is near the LINE OUT jack. So the ob-
R72
jective was to get a LINE OUT signal without cutting the speaker output and without mess-
47k_F(1%)
ing with the LINE OUT jack itself.
VR1B C34 NU
R17 100kB R18
3 As you 1 see
can
in this schematic, the LINE OUT signal comes after the MASTER VOL-
+

2.2k MaxUME, Min 2.2k

passes throughR16 resistors and capacitors
R58to level de signal and goes straight to the
+15V 470
jack. As this jack is a switching one (it cuts when a plug is inserted), we needed to make
2

C43
the bypass just before the jack pins. We need two bypasses, one for the signal going out (
0
10uF/25V
that would be the TO FX UNIT) and one for the R59 signal going in to the Valve Reactor circuit
8 ( FROM FX UNIT). 1k
2

3
A R73 C54
M2082D 47(1W) 100uF/25V
4 FB2
C42
FB-M C55
0uF/25V R61 22pF
C48 ceramic
-15V 47(1W) 100uF/25V
FB1
LINE OUT
LINE OUT
FB-M C46
22pF
ceramic
PRE OUT B
PRE OUT PHONE / LINE OUT
1 J2
R56 2
+3VD +3VD 10k 3
4
5
R22 6
D8 10k PHONE_JACK_SW
1N4148
R10
C63
10k 0.1uF ceramic
D9 +3VD
C41
1N4148 Shassis GND
0.01uF
ceramic
D14
R69
1N4148
As you can see, the LINE OUT signal 10k is split in two for stereo
J1 reasons. We only need to
cut on one point of the split signal, where the green arrow is pointing. The otherSW
FOOT point is
where the return signalC50goes directly
D15 to the VR circuit, the red arrow. So we need to break
0.1uF
points. 1N4148
the circuit in these twoceramic PHONE_JACK STEREO

After breaking the circuit, we will have four points, A, B, C64

C, D, as you can see in the follow-
+3VD
ing figure. In this figure I added the two new mono jacks so you
0.1uF ceramiccan understand the mod-
ded signal flow. The wires make the connections to the jacks.
D10 Shassis GND
R11
1N4148 10k

C7 D11
0.1uF 1N4148
ceramic

NC : No Connect
Case 1: nothing is plugged

The signal goes to point A, then to point JA. As no plug is inserted, the jack is closing the
circuit, so the signal passes to point JB, returns to point B, passes through point C, then
jumps to JC, goes to point JD and returns to point D, which then goes to VR circuit.

Case 2: we connect the IN and OUT jacks for FX unit

The signal goes to point A, then to point JA. Now we are breaking the circuit, so the signal
goes out TO FX unit input and no signal is getting to point JB and B. So, we are getting a
return signal FROM FX unit output into point JD (avoiding the signal to JC and C) and from
JD to point D which goes to VR circuit with the processed signal. Got that? Easy...

Case 3: we plug LINE OUT or a headphone only

Similar to case 1, but the the LINE OUT is breaking the VR circuit, so we get a signal from
point B (JA and JB are closing the circuit) and other part of the stereo signal.

Case 4: we plug the FROM FX unit jack

In this case we are getting the signal directly from de fx unit, so we can bypass the
AD30VT preamp section and feed the VR directly.
So, to end the theory, four possible scenarios are taken into account with just breaking the
circuit at two points.

MATERIALS NEEDED

Ok, all we need is the following:

• 2 mono 1/4 phone switch jacks

• 4 shielded cables (I got them from old headphones)

• Cutter

• Tin

• Solder iron. Drill.

• A bench or desk with good lighting

PROCEDURE

Note 1: If you are unsure of this, just don´t do it! If you know someone with a background
in electronic/electric engineer or technician, ask him if he can do it for you. If you feel sure
about this, let´s go on with the steps!

Note 2: Obviously, I am not responsible for whatever happens to you and your amp. Take
this procedure at your own risk.

1. Unplug all cables and unscrew all screws. First the ones on the back then the ones on
the sides.

2. Remove the back panel and unplug the speaker cables. Remember or mark their insert
positions.

3. Remove the amp chassis.

4. Remove screws from the bottom of the chassis. There are four plated ones and two
black ones (that hold the black heat sink).

5. Remove the nuts from the LINE OUT and FOOT SW jacks. Remove de AMP LEVEL
knob and nut.

6. Cut the plastic tie that holds the transformer colored wires with a bunch of white wires
that go into the main PCB.

7. Carefully pull out the PCB while holding the heat sink in place (because it is screwed to
the LM3886 amp chip) and turn it so that you can see the green side of the PCB. Be-
careful with the tube not to touch the top PCB.

8. Locate the LINE OUT jack pins. See photo:

9. With a sharp cutter, cut between the labeled points A-B and C-D. In the photo these are
marked in blue. You need to cut enough to break the PCB copper path.

G
D

CUT CUT
B
C
A

G
10. Once cut, test connectivity with a tester, between points A-B and C-D to see if you did a
good cut.

11. Get four shielded cables. I used them from a headphone cable and got one cable with
a red wire plus the shield and a black wire with the shield. So you will end having one
pair red/shield and one pair black/shield (or whatever other color). Twist the ends of the
wires and “paint” them with tin with a well heated solder iron.

12. Solder the red wires to the tip of each of the mono phone jacks. These are points JA
and JD in the schematic. Solder the shields to the ground tip. Next, solder the black
wires to the switch of each of the mono phone jacks. These are the points JB and JC.

13. Ok, get one of the jacks and label it TO FX. Then solder the red wire end to pin A (it is
easier to use the adjacent upper pin on that same copper path) on the PCB. Then sol-
der the shield wire to point G (ground). Next, solder the black wire to pin B and the
shield wire to point G.
Get the other jack and label it FROM FX. Then solder the red wire end to pin D on the
PCB. Then solder the shield wire to point G (above D). Next, solder the black wire to
pin C and the shield wire to point G. See photo:
 Shield Wire

Red Wire
Red Wire
Black Wire

Shield Wire Black Wire

14. Test connectivity with a tester between point A-B and C-D. As the circuit is closed, there
should be connectivity.

15. Plug in guitar cables to both TO FX and FROM FX jacks to see it there is connectivity.
When we plug we are bypassing so there shouldn´t be connectivity.

16. If everything is OK, you can run a real test to see if it works. Just put the PCB back into
the chassis. Only screw the heat sink. Put the chassis in the box but the other way
round. Plug speaker cables and power cord. Turn on the amp and see if it is OK. If
there is no fire is because everything is OK!! Plug your FX unit to the TO FX jack and
FROM FX jack on the amp. Now the signal should be going to your FX unit without cut-
ting the speaker! Test it!

17. If everything is OK, unplug everything and pull out the chassis again. Screw the plated
screws back to the chassis again.

18. Now you need to drill 2 holes on the chassis for the new jacks. See photo! Make them
apart enough so the jacks don´t overlap ( I wasn´t careful enough! I recommend drilling
both on the vertical line of the LINE OUT jack). Blow away any metal and plastic parti-
cles after you drill de holes. Mount the jacks.
19. Now you can mount the rest of the nuts and knob from the rear panel. Insert the chas-
sis again in the box. Connect the speaker cables. Position first the back lid. Then screw
everything and close the box.

20. GOOD JOB SHAGGY!

If everything went OK and I didn´t make mistakes on the steps described, you would now
have an AD30VT with an FX send and return. So you can have the amp´s FXs plus your
external FXs unit. Pretty cool! This was a cheap and quick solution. My testings so far
yielded good results. Have FUN!

The Ech

See other pictures after pulling out the chassis: