AUSTRALIAN PLYWOOD MARINE) ee 10 ft. 9 ins. CANOE Specifications: Designed by Arthur Swinfield, Naval Architect Length... 10 ft. 9 ins. Beam 2ft. 3 ins. Depth. 13 ins. Weight approx........65 Ibs. ‘This canoe has been designed for use in closed waters with one or two adult people. Its light weight makes it an easily transported vessel. Construction is relatively simple, and cost of production is very reasonable. Airtight compartments at each end are provided, and if extra safety is required, these may be filled with any of the foam plastics now available, MARINE PLYWOOD BONDED BY WATERPROOF ADHESIVES THE AUSTRALIAN PLYWOOD BOARD LTD. NLT Bee SYA EL Sart TLHow to Order Plywood for Marine Use ‘Marine grade Australian plywood is recommended for alll hull planking, transoms, bulkheads, partitions, decking, seats, All marine grade plywood manufactured in Australia is completely waterproof glue and is branded “Marine bonded AS. No. 0.86" Before you begin work, study this plan until the details of each step in Construction are clear in your mind. LAYOUT: Make full size drawings of the frames and ends of your cance, Use one of the plywood panels ordered for planking as a layout board. Draw a cenire line on this panel, and at right angles to it, using @ large steel square, lay out the base line. If you number each frame outline, you can superimpose all the drawings on this one sat of reference lines. To establish curved lines in your lay- outs, measure off the dimensions given from the base line and centre line, to locate points along the curve. Drive nails af these points and bend a batten around them, drawing the curve along this batten. With all frames drawn full size, simply lay the timber along and over the pen- cilled lines and carefully transfer the various cutoffs, etc. To transfer curved lines, use ordinary cut tacks. Set the “heeds” of the tacks slong the curved line (on the pencilled fay out) and carefully lay the timber in ite place on top of the tack heads. Now press down, The tack heads will mark the limber.” Use a few fine nails end 2 betien 10 trace in the curv. All frames are symmetrical. When you have cut one side member fora Trame to shape, turn the piece over and Use it 25 2 pattern for the other side line ‘up the’ parts. for each frame. in turn directly over the corresponding ley- ut, fastening the plywood gussets in place with screws of nals Fasten across brage across each frame aligning the top edges of these pleces with The’ bose’ line marks, Mark the Centre lire on all the cross braces Many boatbuilders rough out notches for the keel, chine. and theer battens before erecting the frames on the fig Others cut out notches later. STEMS: Draw the full size leyout of the stem (note — each end of the canoe exacily the same). The complete stem is mado up from two (2) pieces of 6” x 3” soft wood, nailed or screwed together at the ends of the butt joint and rein- forced on each side with 2 3/16" ply- wood cheek thru fastened and glued. Use 13 x 13 gauge copper nails and a good quality waterproof glue. Note that the top of each stem ‘extends above the top of the gunwale. The extension will be cut to length later. Make sure that you mark the positions of frames No. 1 and No. 5 exactly as shown before cutting the check in the lower end of the stem and that the end of the keel (or hogpiece) is marked on the stem for future reference, FRAMES: Now draw full size layouts of the frames. Note that frames No. 1 and No, 5 are similar and that No. 2 and No. 4 are similar, so that layout drawings are only required for No. 1, No. 2 and No, 3. All frames are made from soft- wood and are reinforced at the chines with 3/16" plywood brackets. Brackets are not required for No's. 1 and 5 because 2 complete 3/16" plywood panel covers the frames. Use 1" x 14 gauge copper nails and glue. Frames No. 1 and No. 5 are slightly rounded fon the bottom: this measurement of 3” is approximate and will have to be faired up in place on the building frame. — Faslen the crossarms of braces 10 the long arms of the frames with 14" iron screws for future convenience of removal. Be care- ful when cutting the “notches” for the hog, (or keel), chines, and gunweles and allow for future fairing on the building frame or jig The great sirength of plywood is due to cross lamination of the veneers and the fact thet large panels reduce the number Of joints necessary, makes plywood ideal for marine uses. with widths of 3° and 4’ PANEL SIZES: Marine plywood is available in 6’, 7° and 8° lengths Longer lengths such as 14’, 16° and 20° may be oblained upon request. Get plywood and other ‘materials from your local hardware or timber merchant. CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE BUILDING FRAME OR JIG: This is a simple Hem to make. Use steaight timber and be_very exact in positioning all “stops”. The “stops” can be of softwood and made from 2" x 1" ‘as shown, Clamp the two 4” x 2" bearers together and mark all positions simultaneously with a square. The position of the stem “stops” should be very carefully examined as the height of the fore and aft cross pieces marked “A" and the dimension Shown as 1” determine the overall length of the canoe when planked. Assemble the jig or building frame as shown and make sure that it i squarely held in place with a suitable 2” x 1” diagonal brace. Two bearers are shown support- ing the jig — these may rest on any suitable box or frame work but make sure that the jig is not twisted. Use 2 spirit level in all directions. With jig assembled it is a good idea fo rig a chalk line along the centre of the jig 28 on aid to accurately aligning each frame on ils centre line. Now nail tach frame in ils correct po the relative position of all “sto sure that each frame is “square” off the top of the 4” x 2" longitudinal bearers. Next fasten the 12” x 3" keel (or hog: piece) which may be of hardwood (or {ong life) to the stems. The exact length of the kael is 9 1” and each end must be carefully positioned on the datum mark (on the ster) shown as 93" in from No. 6 and No. 0. This fixes the overall length of the canoe (after planking), — however, if you do happen to cut the keel long or short, the positions of No 6 and No. 0 datum lines may be varied within say 1", Now assemble the keel along the notches in each frame and bend it down at each end until the mark showing the top of the guawale on the stem coincides with the top of the “assemblies” at each end of the jig. See "DETAILS AT END OF JIGS" on fig drawing. Fasten each stam head to the jig with 2 strong screw Then fasten the hogpiece or keel to the frames with IY" x 10 gauge brass screws, Countersink these screws into the keel about ¥" Next bend and fasten the gunwales ‘and the chines into the notches in the frames. If these were not exactly cut when the frames are first made, make Sure that they are now cut correctly before fastening the chines or gunwales “for keeps. A detailed drawing of the stem at the junction of the chines and gunwales shows how 10 fit and festen these items, Use 18” x 10 gauge screws. The amount of bevelling is indicated fon the drawing. If you wish, you may check the chines and gunwales throug) the plywood cheeks but this is 2 rafine- ment The completed framework should now be “faired and bevelled ready for the plywood planking. PLANKING “Fairing up" is @ very important opera- tion and must be accurately done. First bevel the bottom of each chine to suit the frames, then bevel the hogpiece Now fair ‘the frames, hogpiece end chines to one another and to the stems with the aid of a batten say 13" x 3/16" plywood about 3 feet long. Be particue larly careful at frames Nos. 1, 2, 4 and § which show 2 definite curve or round fon the’ bottom. The exact curvature ‘can only be obtained when the actual bottom planking is being fitted, so pro- ceed corefully (§" has already been allowed), To mark the approximate shape of the bottom planking, use @ petiern made from stiff building’ paper. The shape at this stage need only be roughly correct, transfers this shape to the 3/16" plywood panel and roughly saw it to within "of the outline. Now clamp this piece of bottom planking to the stem and framework and mark out its exact shape. Remember that the bottom edge butts (mitres) 0 its neighbour on the centre line of the hogpiece or keol and that the chine edge mires 10 the side planking. Before. festening. this piace ‘of planking in position, check It Sgairst the opposite side and ‘ends. and merk thote three penele out for further convenience. "Now mark the end of the firt Bottom panel for butting against its oppotite number. This butt joint iz marked "S""on, the drewing. and. is marked square off the keel.” Each butt joint is reinforced with piece of 3/16" ply about 6" wide fitted close fo. the Keel and the chine, “Give and nail the ply panel to the reinforcing piecos with Copper alle spaced about Ti" centres The botom planking is fastened to the keel with If" copper nails and to the chines and frames wih T" by B gouge brane screws. Use. welerproof ‘glue wherever porsible but make sure That “olued surfaces are clean’ and dust. proof before applying slue, With the bottom planking fited and festened next fit the Sige planking which isch easier, Fasten ths planking io the chines and gunwales with 1 copper nails and to the stems with ¥ ress Now “clean off” the overhanging ply edges al the stems and along the joint of the plywood on the keel with a sharp plane and leave a flat surface 3" wide fo take the “outer” keel or chafing betten which is 2” wide by 4* thick. If good quality bending hardwood is used, this member can be steam bent in either one for two lengths, u: @ short piece of suitable “down pipe” as a boiler, say 5, and a blow lam, ‘or small fire for producing steam. Half fill the pipe with water, bring it to the boil, boil the “keel” for say 15 minutes and’ then bend it to shape on the job, fone end at a time. When cold, fasten fo the hogpiece with 14" brass screws at about 8" centres. Allow the outer keel to “run past” the top of the stem and cut off later. Now turn the planked cence over and remove the jig. Finishing procedure Is as follows:— Fit and fasten the carlines, screw them to the frames with 14” screws, Fit and fasten the 2” x 3" centre line girder” (under the fore decks), screw with 13" screws each end. “Clean off" gunwales, carlines and jrders ready for the deck. Fit and fasten deck (same fastenings as for planking). Fit and fasten flooring to suit owner, Fashion back boards to suit owner. Fashion paddle to suit owner; the overall length may vary quite a lot and can only be “fixed! after trials. Noes: The finished cange may be painted or varnished to sui the owner. ‘Wowever, ail surfacer should be clean ond free From defect before priming, win 50% Turps and. 50% raw" lined ‘ol. efter which the normal ‘painting. procedure 2elies. The cushions shown should be of 2 buoyant matorial for safety. purposes tkepok or foam rubber The aitght spaces at each ond of the canoe should bo provised with doin Foles and. suitable corks". “When not in-use, these corks should always be out tnd the cance kept under cover, oth wwite dry rot could of¢ur The owner may supply cleats or bole lards at eoch end of the canoe fo sult Hs paricular requirements. Before fastening any planking into final position, make sure thet all sawdust or foreign maler is romoved. from the Firing surfaces. Wie 2. ood plon 19 bore Yor each screw then Si the, panel clear for the removal of burs, before sealing the glue Use "Retorcine!” glue, or any other similar good quality waterproof glueMATERIAL LIST FOR 10’ 9% PLYWOOD CANOE Item Dimensions Remarks STEMS FRAMES (UPPER) FRAMES (LOWER) KEEL CHINES GUNWALES RUBBERS, CARLINES, DECK GIRDERS DECK BEAMS PADDLE SHAFT JIG BEARERS JIG CLEATS, ETC. CHAFING BATTEN oO" v 2 e" ia 1 9/16" 9/16" 9/16" 9/16" 9/16" 9/16" 7 i 1" Bi a aa 6' softwood. Red Meranti or similar timber. 20’ lineal (2/10' would do). 7’ lineal. Note this width cuts 3", 5" or 6", 1/9 6". Ash, Spotted Gum, Qld. Maple or similar timber Qn on rn ” Qn. on un arts * ” o Qn. ow ” noon 1/4". Softwood, 3, 1/8' Oregon or similar straight grained timber. 2/12", 1/6! Any straight timber. 1/12" Softwood. 1/14’ or 2/7". This can be bent in two lengths. PLANKING DECKS FLOORING BULKHEADS BACK BOARDS PADDLES NOTE: All timber to be dressed (planed) on four sides. 3/16" Plywood Order 5 sheets 6' x 3' x 3/16" NOTE: Scarf jointed sheets not required. ished sizes are given above. NAILS AND SCREWS — 10’ 9” PLYWOOD CANOE Item |Copper Nails| Brass Screws} Remarks STEMS, FRAMES & CHINE KEEL CHINES GUNWALES CARLINES. DECK GIRDERS. BULKHEADS SIDES TO GUNWALES SIDES TO CHINE BOTTOM TO CHINE BOTTOM TO KEEL PLANKING TO STEMS DECKING TO GUN- WALES, ETC, RUBBERS TO GUNWALE| CHAFING BATTEN TO KEEL VE" x 13 VE" x 13 12 12 12 10 10 10 Screws could be iron (only temporary). (1) into each frame. (3) into stems. Qe ow ow Gone () (on ow eg ie Q)oe ow (1) into stems. () into deck beams. Space nails 2” centres into frame & beams. Space 3” centres. Drive ‘thru, cut & turn over. Space'1§" centres. Drive ‘thru, cut & turn over. Space 13" centres. Space 14" centres. Drive Space 18” centres. Space 23" centres. 12 ‘thru, cut & turn over. Space 6” centres. Space 6" centres. ORDER Copper Nails x 12 x 10 x 8 4 doz. 1 gross 24 gross Brass Screws