Intern

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]
[2011]
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Apart from our efforts, the success of any person depends largely on the encouragement and guidelines of many others. We take this opportunity to express our gratitude to the people who have been instrumental in the successful completion of this internship. We would like to show our greatest appreciation to Mr. L. P. Luthra, our Industry Mentor. We cant say thank you enough for his tremendous support and hel p. We felt motivated and encouraged every time we attended his meeting. Without his encouragement and guidance this internship would not have been fruitful. The guidance and support received from all the employees of Orient Craft Limited who contributed to enhance our knowledge was vital for the successful accomplishment of the internship. We are grateful for their constant support and help. Last but not the least; we thank our Faculty mentor, Mr. Saikat Pramanik as well as all the other faculty and staff members of our department for guiding and directing us through our internship.
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CONTENTS Page No.

1. COMPANY PROFILE 1.1. Contact Information 1.2. Brief History 1.3. Basic Profile 1.4. Financials 1.5. Brand Information 1.6. Infrastructure 1.7. Working Conditions 1.8. Human Resource Policies 1.9. Business Bottlenecks 1.10. Organization Chart 1.11. Process Flow of the company 2. DEPARTMENT STUDY 2.1. Merchandising 2.2. Sampling 2.3. Fabric Store and Trims 2.4. Cutting and Spreading 2.5. Computer Aided Design 2.6. Sewing 2.7. Washing 2.8. Dry Cleaning 2.9. Finishing and Packaging 2.10. Logistics 2.11. Quality Assurance 2.12. Maintenance 2.13. Finance and Accounts 2.14. Machine Details 2.15. Floor Plan 3. PROJECT 3.1. Implementation of Kaizen 3.2. Improvement of Sewing Floor Productivity 4. LEARNING EXPERIENCE 5. APPENDIX 3 4 4 5 6 6 7 8 9 11 12 13 14 15 21 24 33 37 38 42 45 46 50 54 58 58 59 65 68 69 77 80 82
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PART 1 COMPANY PROFILE
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1.1.
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CONTACT INFORMATION
Contact Person: Mr. Sudhir Dhingra, Managing Director, Founder/Chairman Personal Secretary - Meghna (Mobile: +91 98714 96362) Corporate Office: Orient House F-8 Okhla Industrial Area, Phase -1 New Delhi, 110020 (India) Tel: (+91-11) 26818247, 26818249 Website: Orient Craft Ltd. has no website. There is a preliminary website set up for its embroidery division at http://www.ocemb.com/, but it does not contain any information beyond the heading: Orient Craft Limited: Embroidery, an ISO 9001-2000 Unit: Orient Craft Embroidery Division, the largest computer embroidery facility in the Indian subcontinent. E-mail: orient@orientcraft.com Production Units: 1. 7-D Maruti Industrial Complex Sector-18 Udyog Vihar, Gurgaon-122015, Haryana Tel: (+91-124) 5090800, 2343262 Fax: (+91-124) 2342042, 2341110 2. Plot No. 13, Khansa Road Sector 37, Udyog Vihar, Gurgaon, Haryana 3. 14-A Maruti Industrial Complex Sector-18 Udyog Vihar, Gurgaon, Haryana 4. 68, Udyog Vihar, Phase IV, Gurgaon
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1.2.
BRIEF HISTORY
Business began in 1972, but the company was not incorporated until 1978. Dhingra was a law graduate from Chandigarh with no experience. He had a friend from London who was buying from importers and selling the goods to specialty shops, who asked Dhingra to get 1,000 shirts made in India, so he could use the proceeds as seed capital. Dhingra borrowed Rs. 15000 ($300) from his father, found some tailors to make the shirts, and shipped them to London. When his friend repaid him the Rs. 15000 plus a small portion of the profit (Rs. 6000 ~ $133), he decided to break into the industry. At the time, you had to be a tailor to be in the garment industry, not like today. And being a tailor is like being a janitor, theyre not looked up to, theyre looked down upon. His father gave him one year to start up business, and he rented a house, set up a pressing line on the dining table and the production line in the garage. During the first few years, he estimated a production capacity of about 150,000 pieces and an annual turnover of around $40 -50,000. Then after a few years, the Indian -inspired fad went away and he had to spend six to seven months travelling to get rid of inventory stock. During this traveling, he was able to observe fashion trends and the kind of thing s that were selling. When he returned, he hired more people, and set up a manufacturing plant in the late 1970s with a assistance of a government program that give 150% of exports sales as incentives to burgeoning enterprises, though he stated that it was difficult to actually
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get the money from the government. During his traveling, he also encountered some buyers, and restarted business with a trial order of 1200 pieces for a customer in L.A. Then while in Germany, found another buyer. Both were wholesaler s who sold to specialty stores. Then, when he got back to India, he obtained a factory processing site of 240 sq. yards and outsourced actual manufacturing. Orient subcontracted until the early 80s, then consolidated supply chain into one roof. Orients first factory was established in a village in Hauz Marg and it is still there. Orient got clients by word -of-mouth from their L.A. and Germany buyers. In the mid 1980s, Dhingra wanted to improve the standards of quality and infrastructure to globally competitive standards. He knew [he] had to look at the industry from a global perspective and globally what textile buyers needed and what the competition was from the suppliers, not just in the limited Indian context. Dhingra wanted to move production out of the village and industrialize the area and put as many skills in-house as possible. Liz Claiborne sent an American technician to help Orient with worker training and modernization. In the 1990s Dhingra set up a bigger plant with 100 machines, 200 -300 people. The first Gurgaon plant was established in 1993. The first plant in Maruti Industrial complex was the first plant in India that was over 80,000 sq. ft. with 1800 people, and that plant is still there, only now it is 136,000 sq ft. with 3500 people. Dh ingra states that others followed Orient Crafts example, as Gurgaon is the single largest manufacturing sector in India, with more than 350 modernized factories. Dhingra is also Executive Member of the Advisory Committee of AEPC and an active member of reputed associations such as FICCI, CII, ASSOCHAM, CIAE, CMAI, and others.
1.3.
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BASIC PROFILE
Legal Composition of the Company Orient Craft is a privately owned company but deemed public limited. Up until 14 years ago, Dhingra was the sole proprietor. Now he owns 60% of the shares, and gave 20% to his nephew and 20% to his friend. Owners/Directors Mr. Sudhir Dhingra (Chairman and Managing Director), Mr. K.K. Kohli, Mr. Anoop Thatai EOU Information The company has three 100% export oriented units (which can import all raw materials and trims free of duty). Product Mix Areas of specialization include blouses, skirts, pants, shorts, dresses, jackets, outerwear, mens shirts, kids wear, coordinates, knitted shirts/t shirts, and ropers. The company also has a spe cialized home furnishing division that sources soft furnishing products such as pillow and duvet covers to brands such as William Sonoma, Donna Karen, ELM Street, and Marks & Spencer. Clients Armani Exchange, Marc Jacob, Dillards Stores, Ann Taylor, Loft, Express, Esprit, Zara, Banana Republic, GAP (kids), Old Navy (womens), Limited,
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J. . , ilfi , , , t , j , l ren ren, P l Jeans), arks & S encer, i J-Crew, Clai rne i resses, i ear, i S rts), Jones of ew York, S san Bristol, A ercrombie & itch, ext etail t ., asis Stores, ocawear, ockers, ands End, Cal in Klein Jeans, acys, iane on rstenberg. hingra states that rient is the only factory in India to manufacture for arc Jacobs and ouis Vuitton, rient used to source for al -Mart back in but has since stopped. he company does not do that much business with ara and Miss Sixty Italy), because of language and cultural differences with the European business partners. Awards Additional information: rient Craft td. was set up in and has been Indias number one garment manufacturer and exporter and is the recipient of the old rophy gi en by the government of India for highest , , , , and . global exports out of the country f or
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I ANCIALS
Turnover o B S million for -2003 o B S million for 2004 -2005 o B S 5 million for 2005 -2006 s. 42 crores) Other inancials ast years profit was million 40 crores), despite more competitive pricing.
Breakdown of Sales Revenue Est. S % of Sales aterial Cost 82.5 50 60 million Labor .8 24.8 2 5 million Overhead .8 24.8 2 5 million Profit (Target) 6.5 million 0
Per arment 5.00 6.00 .20 .50 .20 .50 .00
% etail Price 0.08 0. 2 0.02 0.03 0.02 0.03 0.02
. .
AND INFORMATION
Orient Craft's Export Market

5%
15%
USA Europe
80%
Canada
Major lients
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Brand
Diane von Furstenberg Macys Marc Jacob Marks & Spencer Ann Taylor Loft Ralph Lauren Express The Limited Dillards Tommy Hilfiger GAP Liz Claiborne
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Length Relationship 5 and a half years 6 years 8 years 8 years 8-9 years 8-9 years 8-9 years 10 years 10 years 12 years 12-13 years 16 years 19-20 years
of Turnover
$ 17 -
18 million
Buying Agency or Direct Most companies are represented by an agent and very few are direct. Marks & Spencer is currently direct, but they will open up their own office soon. Limited used to be mostly direct, but they just opened an office a few years back. Dhingra states that it is easier to deal with buying offices.
Unit Prices (paid to factory per piece of garment supplied) Average Retail Mark-up Average Retail Type Price $ 10 5 to 6 times $ 50 All FOB
1.6.
INFRASTRUCTURE
Company has more than 21 production facilities, of which four are in Delhi, six in Gurgaon, and one large plant is located in Noida. The plants visited by us were over 80,000 sq. ft. and employed 5000 people. Previously, in 2003, the company had only 17 production facilities spread over 600,000 sq. ft. in and around Delhi. In 2003 Orient established a manufacturing complex of 340,000 sq. ft. at the cost of over $10 million USD, which was at the time the single largest multi -product manufacturing plant in the whole of India. Subcontracting Orient does not appear to subcontract, though it does use labor contractors. Production System Orient Craft uses an assembly line system. Production Capacity 2008-2009: 480,000 woven per month, 720,000 knitted per month 2009-2010: 720,000 woven per month, 1,200,000 knitted per month 2010: More than 125,000 per day 2011: In an average day, Orient makes 130,000 pieces and production capacity has grown at least 25% over the past year.
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The average order size is 10-12,000 pieces, sometimes 25-45,000 or even 100,000 pieces. Orient also deals in some very small volume orders for high-end buyers like Oil Lily. Design/Sampling Orient has ramped up its design department in the past nine to eleven years using mostly in-house skills with some help from U.S. companies. As Dhingra stated, after 9/11, even a little bit before, product development became the key thing that most Western companies were looking for, as travelling became restricted and Indian companies needed to build a competitive advantage. Orient has put a lo t of human resources into product development and now boasts 1300 product development personnel at 5 different locations. Orient has a display store in NY on Park Avenue that it opened up 7 yrs ago. It picks up fashion from around the globe, gives feedback, and creates new designs for each season, whose samples are then sent to potential buyers. Orient has created a niche with their diversified product line (mostly cotton/knits or woven, but other fabric from silk, chiffon to denims and outerwear). Quality Control The company has in-house lab testing for garments, fabrics, and trims. The labs are equipped to test for all parameters including colour fastness to light. Approximate number of workers in all facilities Number of people employed in 2002 -2003: 12,000 Number of people employed in 2006 -2007: 23,000 Number of people employed in 2011: 26,000+ Machinery Orient has in-house computerized embroidery machines, washing plants and dry cleaning units. In 2010, the company had over 16000 sewing machines. Departments Refer to page no. Productivity Schemes Orient uses incentive schemes to reduce absenteeism and has implemented worker welfare schemes.
1.7.
WORKING CONDITIONS
The workers are 80% male and since Orient is mostly multiproduct, the workers are skilled and come from a tailoring background and are usually from UP, Bihar, MP and some from Haryana. According to Dhingra the girls in the South as operators are less skilled, and since Orient produces high-end clothing with lots of embellishments, they cant be like Golkadas, who manufactures 80-90% jackets/outerwear, shirts, trousers, with very little embellishment. Dhingra stated that 70% of Orients workforce is direct employment, not through a labour contractor. Most of the permanent employees are supervisors and perform high-end work such as production in-charge and finishing in-charge.
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From Work Timings 9.30 am st 1 Tea Break 11.00 am Lunch Break** (30 min) 12.30 pm 2nd Tea Break 4.00 pm ** The line does not stop during lunch; workers do not go to lunch
work timings could vary from factory to factory.
To 6.30 pm 11.15 am 2.00 pm 4.15 pm

at the same time. Information on
Wages The average wage starts at Rs. 3000 per month for an unskilled worker salary, no piece-rate. 60-70% of the workers are unskilled helpers. With incentive programs for more highly skilled workers, the salaries average Rs. 5-8,000 per month plus ESI and PF. The pay -scale is adjusted twice a year according to inflation, and most people are above the minimum wage. Dhingra stated that in the 1980s and 1990s Orient used a piece -rate system, and in 1993-1994 they started moving away from piece-rate and a few years ago they did away with piece -rate completely. However, through personal interrogation we came to know that, semi skilled and unskilled workers that are hired through labour contractors are paid under a piece-rate system. Furthermore, workers are paid much less than Dhingra asserts. The payments and benefits for contract employees are given to the contractor, who takes a 5% commis sion before paying the rest to the worker. Bonuses are given during Diwali, but he makes no mention of any other incentives. Category Average Wage Rs./month) Tailors 3850 Helper 3344 Trainees 3000 Contract Helper 3850 y y Labor Turnover According to Dhingra, the turnover for Orient Craft is fairly low, probably around 8-9% and as Orient is expanding, labor turnover is decreasing.
1.8.
HUMAN RESOURCE POLICIES

Dhingra stated that there are common HR policies and productivity schemes across plants. Worker Training Dhingra stated that all the facilities have training schools and they intend to make them more formalized, where workers can be trained and work for other companies if they choose to. They are trying to start a training school NGO with a founding member of NIFT, Dr. Sartrushi. Recruitment Policy Orient Craft employs contract workers for at least 30% of its workforce. Some of these contractors are R. K. & Company, Viet Kumar & Company, Vasisht & Company and Tiwari & Company. Union
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Though unions were not explicitly mentioned in the interview, the following was mentioned in a business article: Till around five years ago, the company's chairman and managing director Sudhir Dhingra dreaded the idea of setting up huge factories - all for the fear of [wor ker] strikes. According to the General Manager, Mr. Jahangir Pathan, around nine years ago there was an attempt to establish a trade union (at the 7 -D, Sector-18, Maruti Industrial Complex unit). But the management suppressed and ousted all the workers who [were] involved in the establishment of a Trade Union. Since then the company started sourcing their manpower from labor contractor[s]. This strategy effectively stops any attempt to consolidate workers towards creating a Trade Union. Worker Committees/Grievance Policy/Dismissal Procedure Dhingra was reluctant to give specific information regarding worker committees in person, stating that he would forward the companys code of conduct and a list of their worker committees through his personal secretary. However, upon further inquiry, he stated that such information was confidential and would hurt Orients competitive advantage. After a thorough probing it was concluded that Orient had no worker committees at the facility visited, no formalized dismissal procedure, no sexual harassment committees and workers are not involved in wage negotiations or target setting. There is no grievance policy procedure in place for complains against workers or management. Punishments are given to workers without any formalized procedure, and if a manager finds a worker guilty of an infraction, workers are fired with no redress. Corporate Social Responsibility Dhingra stated that Orient has a fund to help workers who need to take a day off if they are sick or have to attend a wedding, and that Orient pays in full for the schooling of female children of workers and for 65% of the schooling of male children. GAP gave Orient $35,000 and Orient spent $20,000 building a community welfare centre that provides medical care for community members. Orient also helped train 300 women from the nearby village in hand embroidery at international standards. They built a four story structure to house the embroidery tailors. Although Dhingra stressed how this was all for the benefit of the wo men and the community, he also mentioned customers were concerned that if hand embroidery was subcontracted rather than done in -house that it would not meet quality compliance standards. According to Dhingra, if someone asked me what my one single reason for success, it would be people. I have always been very people -centric-its not just about the bottom -line, its about what we can do for the community. Twenty four years ago we had over 1000 workers; fourteen years ago we had 5000 people, now we have 2 6,000. Some of our workers are second-generation workers. Thirty years ago we employed a women who worked as a thread-cutter and got paid Rs. 400 per month. Now she is a finishing manager and gets paid Rs. 50,000 per month and her son is working here I have always thought about social welfare. It is the soul of our company.
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His words are interesting when we consider that Orient uses labor contractors and didnt build up any of the community welfare projects until external forces like GAP pressured them.
1.9.
BUSINESS BOTTLENECKS
Productivity is relatively low, since Orient Craft products tend to be high fashion, highly tailored outfits with additional embellishments like embroidery and special washes, which includes a more complex manufacturing process. Seasonality is an issue, as Orient usually doesnt have as many orders May through August. India is still not good at producing fall fabrics, but Orient has taken up some holiday decoration work, which eases strain some as well as the other diversification of profits, such as home furnishing. They started up home furnishing about seven and a half years ago, for Bed Bath and Beyond, Pottery Barn, Marks & Spencers, Donna Karan, White Co., Macys. Home furnishings are still small industries and comprise about $15-17 million of Orients sales. They started producing denim products 9 -10 years ago and just started manufacturing mens suits at a plant for Liz Claiborne and Express. Labor flexibility is also an issue, Dhingra wants increased flexibilization otherwise it is more difficult to expand and it hurts business. Specifically, he wants to extend the length of time it takes to become a permanent employee to 12 months. Although happy about Orients success, Dhingra stated there are companies who do $1 billion (menti oned Chinese and Lian Thai from Hong Kong, they have 100,000 people, we only have 26,000), and Orient needs to do competitive pricing to stay in the game and bring in buyers, as they need to grow the base of buyers and price is a compelling reason to do that.
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1.10.
ORGANIZATION CHART
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1.11.
PROCESS FLOW OF THE COMPANY
Packing
Finishing
Shipm nt
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Garm nt Washing (if r quir d)
Embr id ry / Printing (if any)
Mark r Making
Spr ading
Cutting
S wing
Fabric Washing / R laxati n
Raw Mat rial Insp cti n
Acquisiti n f Raw Mat r ial
Siz S t Sampl Appr val
Placing f Ord r
Int racti n with Buy r
Pr -Pr ducti n M ting
Pr t typ Appr val
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PART 2 DEPARTMENT STUDY
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2. DEPARTMENTS
2.1.
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
The Merchandising department is an important part of every industry as they form the relation and negotiation between the company and its buyers and suppliers. The merchandisers are segregated according to the brands. Every brand has their own set of merchandisers who, on approvals of designs from the design department works towards the fabric procurement, buyer negotiations, vendor compliances and following up with the style and the orders till they have been received by the buyers as per buyer preferences.
2.1.1. PACKAGE FILE
It consist of following reports

y List of orders pasted on the left hand inside cover of the file. y Tech pack. y CAD marker-costing and factory costing. y Trim pro forma invoices from the supplier. y Confirmation of the trims y Commercial invoices (C.I.) y Confirmation of the CI from the store y Order chart from the buyer y P.O. copies from the buyers y Fabric order confirmations with approved fabrics swatches y Time and action calendar. y Hard copy of all incoming and outgoing crucial and important mails that may be
required for future references (buyer related)

y Mills fabric reports-checking, testing y Internal fabric reports-checking, testing y Buyer approved-
i. Trim card
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ii. Shade bands iii. Wash swatch/wash mocks iv. Embroidery/printing

y Minutes of Pre-production meeting y Hard copies of in/out mails with respect to production -either with PPD/QA/factory-
all concerned and important mails

y Size set-passed comments- (buyers) y Pilot-approval comments y Internal quality audit reports before final inspection. y Packing list y Invoice received from shipping department for the purpose of shipment. y Dispatch details i.e. date dispatched to which destination, vehicle number, number
of cartons, number of pieces and sending factorys name.
2.1.2. ACTIVITIES OF A MERCHANDISER y Design/Sampling y Fabric sourcing y Accessories sourcing y Colleting Testing reports y Production targets and its achievements y Quality Check y Report maintenance y Shipping/Forwarding
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2. .3. COSTING FACTORS
Fig. .1.1 diagram of costing factors
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2.1. . PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING
Fig. 2. .2 process flow chart
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2.1.5. DOCUMENTS PREPARED 1. TNA Time and Action)
This is a schedule prepared by the merchandisers for any order that comes which helps them keep a control on the whole process and check if the process is going as per the planned schedule.
2. BOM Bill of Materials)
It is the list of all the materials required in making of a garment.
3. Purchase Order P.O.)
The Purchase Order consists of the following details: a) Folder summary: It consists of the general details like brand number, buyers name, size range and the drawing of the garment. b) Color / Trim page: It consists of details like description, size, and the base material, and finish, placement of the button, hanger loop etc. The color number and description for each style is also given. c) Fabric page: It consists of details of the fabric to be used like fabric type, fiber content, dye process, construction. d) Packaging and labeling details : It consists of the details like type of packing, hanger type, poly bag type, clips, type of labeling. e) Label placement: It describes with figure where the label, hangtag, spare button is to be attached. f) Correct balance: It is some basic and important tips for correct fit. g) How to measure: It consists of a figure showing how to measure the dimensions of the garment parts, which are given in the spec sheet. h) Tech sheet: It consists of the detail s of the entire dimension and how it should be taken, with diagram. i) Development photos: It contains the photos of the garment. j) Spec sheet: It consists of the entire dimension with tolerance.
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4. Bill passing report
This is the report used in fabric receiving, merchandising section which has details like type, quantity, receipt number, item details, and amount. It also has a good receipt note attached and also contains the fabric color code, width, quantity, rate, value etc.
5. Costing sheet
The costing sheet is the addition of all the costs involved in the making of the garment and then it is quoted to the buyers. It contains per piece and the total cost (of all the pieces). It includes the details like cost of fabric, trims, washing, embroidery, sampling, testing, freight, duty, insurance etc .
6. Style track sheet
This is the sheet, which the merchandisers make to keep track of the order. It consists of the details like style number, merchants name, floor on which it is allocated, floor arrang ement, name floor manager.
7. Initial marker planning sheet
When the merchandiser sends the sample then he is provided to do the costing since for costing they get an idea of fabric required per garment by this initial marker planning. It consists of fabric width, total width, total pieces, pieces placed, efficiency, and length.
8 . Approval forms
It consists of the following: a) Bulk approval form: In this form the fabric which is being outsourced is tested and then approval is given on the fabrics qual ity, hand feel, finishing, pattern / layout, color, weight, and stretch / recovery. b) Trim and finings approval form: In this form, the bulk approval is given on the trims by checking their quality and color. c) Shade band approval form: In this form various lots are required for the color variation; the lots with wide color variations are rejected.
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2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

he sampling section is a mini production floor where all the functions of a garment manufacturing unit are done on a small scale. - All the functions ranging from cutting to sewing to finishing is accomplished here. - he sampling section follows the make through system for producing the garments. 2.2.1. DEPARTMENTAL STRUCTURE
Fig. 2.2.1 hierarchy of the department
2.2.2. WORKING PROCEDURE . 2. etting clarifications about style details from merchandiser. etting PPA Pre Production Approval) from Buyer through Merchandiser.
3. Checking patterns workability before starting cutting as sometimes the patterns specified do not result in a desired garment or desired measurement. 4. Preparation of different samples during different stages of production and get the buyers approval. 5. Informing uality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to 6. evising the specification of the buyer. . Minimi ing operations and consumption. 8. Innovation of new methods for completion of operations more efficiently. C.
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2.2.3. TYPES OF SAMPLES
Various samples which are being developed at different stages are being mentioned below:a) Proto Sample b) Fit Sample c) Sales Sample d) Pre Production Sample / Top Of Production Sample e) Size Set Sample
a). Proto Sample : Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to
acquaint the tailors with the style. It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and then checked on the dress form. The quality inspectors from the respective buying houses or the buyer checks the sample, makes the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style details etc. Once this stage is completed, its time to move on to the next stage.
b). Fit Sample : the fit of the garment assumes the pivotal importance in this sample.
It is usually done on the substitute / actual fabrics and substitute trims and accessories. It is sent directly to the buyer for necessary alterations to be made. Depending upon the changes or the comments of the buyer, the revised fit samples are made till the final approval is obtained.
c). Sales Sample : The sales sample is done when the buyer requests for a certain
no. of pieces for the promotion of the product yet to come. It gives the buyer certain types of feedback about his product and leaves him better equipped to decide on the production quantity. It usually consists of 6 to 7 pieces in each size and color.
d). Pre Production sample: / Top of production sample: it is done on the actual
fabric using the actual trims and the fit has to be perfect. It is simply a prelude to the actual production.
e). Size Set Sample : it is done according to the buyers request. It is almost
equivalent of the pre production sample except that it was done in all the sizes or in the jumping sizes s per the buyers request.
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2.2.4. LABOR DETAILS
SPECIALI ATION
NUMBER
Sampling incharge Pattern maker Cutting Supervisor Cutting assistant Stitching Supervisor Tailor Machine Embroider Hand embroider Finishing Supervisor Finishing Assistant QA Record keeper
Table 2.2.2 labor details
01 05 01 02 02 16 01 01 01 03 02 01
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2.3.
FABRIC STORE AND TRIMS DEPARTMENT
All the raw materials (i.e. the shell fabric, the pocketing fabric, fusing, trims and accessories, etc.) are ordered and purchased by the stores department and issued to the various departments. In certain cases wherever any department wants to get any material, they are supposed to inform the stores department, which will check the enquired material availab ility in the department - this is done by issuing an Indent. If they find that certain items are fully or partially not available as desired, then they identify the sources of suppliers and give purchase orders mentioning the terms and conditions, after getting the quality approval from the concerned authority, to selected supplier on the basis of previous track records and price quotations. Fabric is sourced from the following vendors The buyer either specifies the vendors from where the material is to be sourced or the company sources it from the local vendors like 1. Mafat Lal, 2. Nahar textiles, Store deals with following activities: 1. Requisition of material 2. Acquisition of Material 3. Issue of Material
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2. .1. HIERARCHY OF THE DEPARTMENT
Fig. 2. .1 hierarchy of the department
After the placement of order, the inventory status is checked, i f the material requirements that are necessary to execute the master production schedule are not in inventory, requisitions are sent to purchasing, and purchasing places the materials on order. MRP Material resource planning) is basically a production/inventory management system that provides information to the production department so that it can rationally plan to produce products, knowing it will have the proper materials on hand to do so. For making purchase, the purchase department must have the following details like what material is needed for what buyer in order to complete an order of how many pieces, what is the deadline to start the production, what is the amount of the material needed, what is the unit cost of the material, what is the current inventory status, on the basis of the following details a purchase order is prepared which contain the purchase order number, t he release dates, the P amount. Along with that it contains the details regarding the vendor, his address, name, telephone number and Id. status and the
2. .2. PROCESSING OF INVENTORY 2. .2.1. Requisition of material
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Fig. 2. .2 order placement flow chart
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2. .2.2.
Acquisition of Material
When the material is delivered from the buyer as per requisition, it goes through number of checks. First it is checked at the gate physically to ensure that the right fabric, to the right unit address, from the right vendor and in the right quantity has arrived. If there are any discrepancies in any of the details then proper actions are taken as per the problem. If it is approved at the gate, then a request is send to the fabric store and the material is send there.
Fig. 2. . material acquisition flow chart
In the fabric store, the entry is made into the register the fabric, and then it goes through various inspections. It is checked for the defects on a light table on the basis of the four point system. 4-point system followed for inspection
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Defect
length Points
Identification sticker Yellow
(in inches) 0 to 3 3 to 6 6 to > 2 3 4
reen avy Red
3. Issuing of Material
Fig 2.3. issuing of material
Fabric Quality Inspection Report It is the inspection report of the fabric made in fabric store. It consists of the following data: Supplier name, fabric code, meter age received, meter age inspected, construction etc. rient Craft when it is received in the
2.3.3. INSPECTION
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y y y y y y y
Lot No. Roll no. Dye lot Ticket length Cut able width (min., max.) Penalty points in dyeing and printing faults Penalty points in stains / holes
With this information it is decided whether the fabric is to be accepted or rejected, or is some compensation is to be asked.
2.3.4. TRIM STORE
The trims store is another part of the inventory where the trims that is thread, zipper, buttons, and labels etc. are stored and given to the departments as per requirements. Also, all the various trims required for hand embroidery are also stored and issued from the trims store.
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2.3. . PROCESS FLOW OF THE TRIM STORE
Fig 2.3. process flow
2.3. . STOCK DETAILS AVAILABLE IN THE TRIM STORE NAME abel ippers Elastic hread Interlining Poly bag UNIT OF MEASUREMENT Per piece Per piece Per meter Per meter Per meter Per kg
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Hanger Tissue paper Button Fusing Carton Packing tape Bar code sticker Brand tag Hangtag
Table 2.3.1 stock details
Per piece Per rim Per gross Per meter/yard Per piece Per roll Per piece Per piece Per piece
2.3.7. MAIN VENDORS
ACCESSORY
VENDORS
Cartons
Classic
packaging,
Bangalore
Adarsha
packagaing, Bangalore Wadpack, Bangalore Polybags Srinivas polymers, Bangalore Threads Madura coats, Vardhaman, Mahavir spinning mills, Bangalore Kesha silks, Bangalore Zipper YKK, Multi Zip, Bangalore Mahalaxmi, polybags, Bangalore Bangalore Nikita Ujjawal plastics,
Bangalore Labels Renu creations, SLN Printek, Bangalore Mahalaxmi, Bangalore Interlining Vinayaka impex, Bangalore Bala Impex, Bangalore Impetus Impex, Bangalore Tissue paper Bar code stickers
Table 2.3.2 main vendors list
Kesha sales, Bangalore Vectra Systems, Chennai Aero Webtex, D
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2.3.8. DOCUMENTS USED
1. Generated y
Trim status sheet- has information on trims consumption as per order and style
y y
Trim card- for approval from merchandiser Register maintained for trims issued
2. Received y
Batch plan- from planning department, to keep a track on incoming trims and for receiving new ones.
y y
Delivery Challan- from sewing section for issuing trims. Invoice- for incoming trims.
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2. .
CUTTING AND SPREADING DEPARTMENT
Cutting and spreading is one of the most important departments of the manufacturing unit. he first stage in the manufacture of the garments is the cutting of the materials into the necessary patterns shapes. hese are then joined together by means of seams to create three-dimensional garments. Where large quantitie s of a garment style must be cut, a lay is created which consist of many plies of fabric spread one above the other. From this, all the garment pieces for all the si es that have been planned for that lay are cut. he pattern shapes for these garments maybe drawn on a paper marker placed on top of the lay, or information as to their shape and position maybe held within a computer, to be plotted similarly on the paper marker or used to drive an automatic cutter . Cutting department is subdivided into three sections(i) Spreading/Cutting (ii) Spreading/Cutting 2 (iii) Bundling 2. .1. PROCESS FLOW
Fig. 2. .1 process flow of cutting department
S.No. 1
2. .2. MACHINE DETAILS

Machine Manual table Straight machine length 6) knife (blade F95755 Blue streak II 6 spreading Model ocally made Make Number
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Band knife machine Fusing machine ( flat continuous )
EC
700
Eastman Knife Hashima
Band
HP 1000 ED
Table 2.4.1 machine details
1. Straight knife
blade 6, of BLUE STREAK II. The cutting room has 8 such
cutters.
y y y y y
Current Volts Cycle RPM
4.2 amp 220 50 per second 2850 I
Motor phase
2. Spreading table
y y y
Width Height Length
69.4 35.5 22m (average)
2.4.3. MANUAL SPREADING y y
The rolls are first opened . The company follows CPL (Cut Piece Length); hence the fabric is cut in lengths 5% more than the lay length.
y y y
Since the fabric is tubular, it is cut open manually with the help of scissors. Then the fabric is left overnight for relaxation. According to the buyers requirements and the properties of t he fabric if the fabric needs to be washed then it is sent for washing.
Brown paper was laid before spreading and taped to the table surface. This is to protect the fabric from the rough table surface. It also helps in facilitating the movement of the lay from one area to the other if the need arises.
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It prevents the lower plies from distortion by straight knife while cutting.
y
The brown paper is measured according to the lay length specified in the layer chart and fixed using a cello tape. In case of greate r width of fabric, two sets of brown paper were laid across the width.
The length of the plies to be laid was measured with a normal measuring tape and marked with a tailors chalk or a pencil o n the brown paper.
Generally, the maximum lay length was 3.5m to 4m. Lay length more than this would also increase the total shrinkage which becomes very difficult to handle. The lay height was usually 2 to 2.5 inches. The fabric is then spread manually by 6 to 8 workers. Usually one set of workers continued till the order quantity of that particular orde r was fulfilled i.e. they did not switch to spreading of other fabrics until the order for that particular style was complete.
y y y
In manual spreading, first ply of the fabric was spread up to the required length and cello taped, so as to serve as a proper base for the upper plies to be spread.
The manual spreading procedure had one spreader who threw one end of the fabric across the length of the table. Two other spreaders picked the two ends of the fabric from each side of the table and spread it across the length of the table as per the desired lay length. On reaching the other end they aligned the edges and placed a weight on it. While returning back, one spreader would smoothen the ply evenly across the table with a long wooden ruler while the other spreader aligned the fabric selvedge.
If the fabric has been washed then it is left only for an hour after spreading and then cut.
If the fabric has not been washed, then the lay is left for 24 hours on the cutting table for relaxation.
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2.4.4. CUTTING PROCESS y y
Cutting was done with a straight knife for all types of fabric. Even smaller parts like collar, pockets, cuff and collar bands were cut by the straight knife.
y y
Only some small parts usually those of kids wear were cut using a band knife. Sometimes even up to three cutters did the cutting work simultaneously to wrap up the process.
The remnants were collected by the helper in order to create enough free movable space for the cutting knife and also to prevent the floor from getting dirty.
The cut parts were tied by the helper. These parts were collected and then they were sent to ticketing and bundling section. These were later dispatched to the production floor.
2.4.5. DOCUMENTS USED y y y y y y
Job Card Cutting plan Cutting order Requisition slip Layer chart Lay slip
2.4.6. BUNDLING AND TICKETING y y y
Ticketing and bundling takes place in the cutting room itself. Ticketing operations takes place with the help of ticketing guns. The tickets have information regarding the lot number, layer number, ply number etc.
Bundling takes place manually, every bundle has a tag which contains the entire description of the garment.
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2.5.
COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN DEPARTMENT
CAD department uses LECTRA cad for marker making. This department plays a very important role in achieving the target of the company. This department also does the estimation of the fabric which will be used in making a sample. This department has two computers and both computers are connected to the network so anybody can open the file and operate the system elsewhere. This department has 3 sections:
2.5.1.
PATTERN MAKING SECTION
Either through plotter, when the patterns are made man ually or on the software itself, 75% of the patterns are made manually and then plotted and graded. The pattern making section is in the head office of the company, and the patterns are sent to all the other units via e -mail for marker making.
2.5.2.
MARKER MAKING SECTION
Once all the patterns of a garment are received the marker is made. The factors that are kept in mind while making the marker are:
y y y y y
The mode of spreading Length of the fabric available Shrink percentage of the fabric Number of garment pieces to be in one lay The size ratio required
There are two people in the CAD department whose responsibility is to receive the patterns and make the markers. Sometimes, the patterns need to be amended due to some issues with the fabric. Usually, the marker efficiency lies between 70% and 8 5%.
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2.6.
SEWING DEPARTMENT
The dominant process in garment industry is sewing, still the best way of achieving strength and flexibility in the seam itself as well as flexibility of manufacturing method. Much of the application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the achievement of satisfactorily sewn seams. The objectives of sewing are the construction of seams, which combine the required standards of appearance and performance with an appropriate level of economy in production. There were two sewing floors in the unit, Ground floor and First floor. The ground floor consisted of 6 sewing lines, a samplin g section and an alteration section. The first floor consisted of 7 sewing lines, a sampling section and an alteration section. Both the sewing floors were controlled by one labor contractor.
2.6.1. SEAM DEFECTS y Broken stitches:
Where a splice occurs on the stitch line. If this occurs on topstitching, then the seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise. Caused by Thread breaks or thread run -out during sewing
y Skipped stitches:
Where the stitch length is inconsistent, possibly appearing as double the normal stitch length. Where you can see that the threads in the stitch are not properly connected together. Caused by the stitch- forming device in the sewing machine missing the thread loop during stitch formation causing a defective stitch. On looper type stitches, this will allow the stitch to unravel causing seam failure.
y Open Seam- Seam Failure-Stitch:
Where the threads in the seam have ruptured leaving a hole in the stitch line: Caused by
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Improper stitch for application Inadequate thread strength for seam;
Seam slippage: his
It is that part where the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from the ed ge. smooth and have a slick surface. It is also caused by loosely constructed fabrics.
often occurs on fabrics constructed of continuous filament yarns that are very
E cessive Seam Puckering: Where the seam does not lay flat and smooth along the stitch line. Caused by one of the following: Feed Puckering-where the piles of fabric in the seam are not being aligned properly during sewing. ension Puckering-where the thread has been stretched and sewn into the seam. he thread then causes the seam to draw back and pucker.
2. .2. WORK PROCESS OF SEWING DEPARTMENT
cut parts recei ed from cutting parts preparation
inline inspection
assembl of parts
button hole and button stitch
endline inspection
Fig2. .1 process flow chart
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When a new style comes over, the information like operation breakdown, sewing details, critical operations, etc. is given to the Line Supervisor . A sample of the garment is also given for any kind of reference.
y y y
Line is set as per line layout plan. Operations are assigned to the operators as per their skill level. Required SPI, thread tension and needle number is set by supervisors and mechanic as per requirement. Line Supervisor and the contractor give the directions to the operators on how to perform the operations.
In Line checkers and line QC ascertain that the quality coming out from each operation is as per the quality specifications.
A report is prepared by the In Line checkers and On Line QC for style quality progress. Industrial Engineer doe s the operations study again, if any change needs to be incorporated in the layout and working method for quality and production purpose, immediate action is taken. When the output is complete, it is checked by final checkers again to ensure the product q uality. The company follows the contractor system and all the work is done according to the will of the contractor. For almost every style, the Line plan given by the Logistics Department is simply changed by the contractor, adding a few machines and changing the order of arrangement of the operations. There is only one labor contractor for the sewing floor and the same person has been working since the company started.
2.6.3.
DOCUMENTS MAINTAINED
1. BROKEN NEEDLE MAINTENANCE RECORD
The broken needle is submitted to the maintenance department where one person is specifically employed to maintain this record.
2. NEEDLE DISPOSAL LOG
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It is used to keep the record of the number of needles broken on a particular style, on a particular m/c. The signature of the operator is taken against any such entry and the contractor is informed of the same .
3. MACHINE MAINTENANCE RECORD
Machine maintenance card is put on each and every machine. Proper machine maintenance is done on weekly and monthly basis. An immediate corrective measure is taken by the maintenance department in case of any type of breakdown. Every machine is cleaned and checked by the operators before and after starting the work on the machine. On an average each line has:
y y y y y y
25 machines 4 tables 1 supervisor/line in-charge 3-4 helpers 2 inline checkers 1 line QC
4. ATTENDANCE REPORT
OC keeps track of the attendance of each worker, line, floor and the department. Attendance report contains employees designation, name, shift code, in time, out time, joining date, and last work date, total absenteeism until now, resign and work duration. It also includes the department wise employee attendance summary.
5. PRODUCTION REPORT
It tells us the input in the line and the hourly as well as total output from the line and dispatch both for the day and total until now. It tells us at which stage (cutting, sewing and dispatch) the work is getting blocked.
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2.7.
WASHING DEPARTMENT
2.7.1. Types of Washes: 2.7.1.1. y y y y y Normal Wash:
Wetting Agent NIT
for colored garments
for white garments for mixed lots
Aqua-clean
Detergent (Surf/Tide) 1 to 2 g of chemical is used per garment depending on the weight of the garment and the experience and advice of the supervisor.
The process flow for Normal Wash is:

o The bath is prepared by adding water and chemicals o Garments are soaked in the bath for 5 to 10 minutes o Then the machine is run for 5 to 10 minutes o After this the water is drained out and the garments are washed
twice for 2-3 minutes with cold water

o The garments are then sent to the hydro-extractor which is run
for 2-3 minutes on tight setting

o Finally, the garments are tumble dried. y y
In case of white garments, Robin Blue is also added in the initial bath. For the removal of tracing of Robin Blue, oxalic aci d is used and for the neutralization of oxalic acid, Soda Ash is used. The process for this is
o Water + Oxalic acid
machine run for 15 minutes.
o The garments are then washed twice with cold water. o Neutralization using Soda Ash for 5 to 7 minutes. 2.7.1.2. y y Softener Wash
Cationic Softener is used for this kind of washing The process flow for this is:
o The bath is prepared by adding water and chemicals for Normal
Wash
o Garments are soaked in the bath for 5 to 10 minutes o Then the machine is run for 5 to 10 minutes
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o After this the water is drained out and the garments are washed

o Then softener is added and the machine is run for 5 to 10 minutes o The garments are then sent to the hydro-extractor which is run for
2-3 minutes on normal setting

o Finally, the garments are tumble dried. o Note: Cold water wash is never done after using softener. 2.7.1.3. Silicon Softener Wash: y
In case for some fabrics, is Cationic Softener fails to give the desired feel to the garments, Silicon Softener is used.
It should be noted that Silicon softener is used only for colored garments due to its tendency of causing yellowing in white garments.
y y
For white garments, SNY softener is used to avoid yellowing. The process flow for this is the same as that for Softener wash.
2.7.1.4. Bio-Wash
y y
Biopolis Enzyme is used for this kind of washing. It is done to remove pilling from the fabrics.
o The bath is prepared by adding water and chemicals for Normal
Wash
o Garments are soaked in the bath for 5 to 10 minutes o Then the machine is run for 5 to 10 minutes o After this the water is drained out and the garments are washed

o Then enzyme is introduced at

pH 5.5 Temperature Time 45 min. 55 0C
o It is then drained and washed with cold water once o Next Softener wash is done and subsequently it is sent to the
hydro-extractor
o Finally, the garments are tumble dried. y
pH regulators used are:

o Citric acid
for white garments
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o Acetic acid for colored garments, also used for color fixing 2. .1. . Fabric Washing: y y o chemical is used; only cold water washing is done. Fabric is dipped for a minimum of 2 to 3 hours and then sent to the hydro extractor. y y he hydro-extractor is run on tight setting. Finally, the fabric is tumble dried.
Fig. 2. .1 hierarchy
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2.8.
DRY CLEANING DEPARTMENT
The dry cleaning department was a very small part of the company, since very less buyers required their products to be dry cleaned. The department consisted of a Supervisor and a helper. There were only three machines and all of them were automated with in-built tanks for soap as well as softener. 1. Chemicals used for dry cleaning
y y
Soap
D.C. 100 Perc Soap Perchloroethylene
Softener
2. Machine Running Time per lot

y y y
Without Soap/Softener With Soap/Softener Drying
2 to 3 minutes
5 to 7 minutes
15 to 30 minutes
The basic purpose for which dry cleaning was being used in the company was for the removal of oil stains. Though sometimes, dry cleaning was also done on buyers requirements.
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2.9.
FINISHING AND PACKAGING DEPARTMENT
Finishing is the last stage of garment product ion where garment gets its final look. In this department each garment undergoes different finishing processes. It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the garment free from defects. Buyer specifications and instructions are st rictly maintained. This is a department where there is no contracted workforce, rather all are company employees.
2.9.1. OPERATIONS PERFORMED AT FINISHING STAGE 1. Thread cutting
Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose and uncut threads . An hourly production record was maintained for the thread cutting workers.
2. Stain Removal
The stain removal section has facility to remove the following type of stains: Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains.
3. Rough Checking
The checking section at finishing department comprised of two batches of quality checkers. This section plays a very crucial role in ensuring the quality of end garment. Each quality checker is provided stickers for marking defects, thread clippers etc. Each checker is instructed to check the garments thoroughly, mark the defects with arrow stickers and also to cut the uncut threads if found. Every checker puts the pass piece in the plastic basket below the inspection table. It is the responsibility of the quality checker to take the defective pieces for correction and after correction put it in the pass pieces basket. The defects found at this stage could be broadly of the following types Stitching defects Stains Finishing Defect Holes cut/Fabric defects
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Checker puts his allotted number on each of the garment piece passed by him. Each checker is monitored for their performance. Every time a defective piece is found at a later stage. It is traced back to the checker who passed it. This checker is then shown his mistake and taught the correct method so that this is not repeated again. All these checkers are given regular on-the-job training. Finishing in charge or supervisors teach checkers the correct method of garment checking
4. Seam Ironing
The pieces are put into boxes after thread-cutting activity gets over. From these boxes ironers who used to iron the seams only retrieves the pieces. The ironing machines being used for this purpose are Steam Ironing Tables with Vacuum Boards. These irons are of the make Ramsons and Viet.
5. Alterations and Stain Removal
An hourly and daily record of the number of pieces altered is maintained. In case of defects, the pieces are taken back to the respective department from which the defect has arisen. In case of defects related to the sewing floor, the pieces are sent to a special section on the sewing floor which handles only alterations.
6. Final Ironing
The garment trolleys are brought for final ironing. As soon as a new style was received, the ironing supervisors used to analyze the style as per the critical instructions given in the OAD folder. Based on the ironing instructions, he give s instructions to the ironing operators about the correct way of ironing the garments of a particular style.
7. Final Checking
Before sending the garments for packing it is absolutely nec essary to check the garments finally for various defects. In this section the overall look of the garment is seen. For the purpose of removal of stains detected during this stage, each table is provided with a spot washing stain removal gun. Also, each table is provided with thread clipper to cut the uncut threads. All the defective pieces are sent for alteration and necessary corrections, if possible else they are rejected .
8. Tagging and Packing
The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and packing se ction. It is the
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responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the tagging operators with the appropriate price and brand ticket or tags. As soon as a new style arrived in the tagging section, the packing supervisor used to place the necessary tags in the racks provided for this purpose. He also used to instruct the tagging operator as to where and how the tag has to be placed. The most important thing to be kept in mind while placing the tag was to match the size mentioned on the main label and the size on tag or ticket. The step after the tagging is to pack the garments as per the specification of the buyer.
9. Presentation Checking and Carton Packing
It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation. Checkers check the packed garments for the following things
y y y y y y
Polybags are as per specification Tags and price ticket should be as per specification Packing is secured or not if specified Polybags should not be soiled and torn Hangers are there or not if specified Garment has been folded as per specification etc.
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The following things were kept in mind during carton packing
y y y y y y y
Number of garments to be packed in one carton Ratio asked for example M:L:S=2:1 :1 Get the cartons tested for bursting strength Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified Closing the cartons with cellophane tape Sealing the cartons with plastic cord Writing on carton information like store or buyer name, buyer's address, ratio, net weight of the carton etc.
This again is checked and if the lot pass es, then the consignment is sent for
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shipment along with a packing list which comprises of the followin g information
y y y y y y y y y
Style no. P.O. no. Size ratio and mix Color Gross weight Net weight Dimensions Labels Air or Ship shipment
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2.10.
LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT
The Logistics Department can also be referred to as the Operations department. This department comprises of two different departments itself. These are 1. Production Planning and Control 2. Industrial Engineering Production planning and Control is a function of production engineering or as is more usually the case, a unit within the operations departmen t. Where production is dispersed over a number of locations, a central department is needed to collect and analyze the control information from each production unit in order to report on individual and overall achievements. This department helps the merch andiser to get all the information at one place whether the order is done in -house or at some of the vendors factory. This department actually gives a virtual picture of the order being done in -housed to the merchandiser.
2.10.1. y
FUNCTIONS
The main functions of the PPC department are: Making a calendar of production by booking the capacity as per order quantity. Keeping a track on the per day production to check if it is meeting the targets or not. The order is booked to the capacity as per fixed efficiency percentage Lead time is the tame taken from PCD to x-factory (shipment) date. PPC receives the Operation Bulletin (OB) from the IED to set up the production target for that style as per the SA
y y y
Industrial Engineering is concerned with design, improvement and installation of integrated system of people, material, equipment and energy. It draws specialized knowledge in mathematical, physical and social science together with principles and method of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems.
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The Industrial Engineer not only does the time study and capacity study, he also develops the line plan keeping in mind the constraints such as availability of machines and the annual budget of the company. e tries to identify the problem areas and tries to smooth not only the material flow but also the operation by providing the operator with some work aid and attachments and thus actually helpi ng in reducing SAM and the Throughput time of the garment being produced. 2.10.2. WORK PROCESS OF THE DEPARTMENT
Fig 2.10.1 work flow chart
2.10.3.
FUNCTIONS
1. Factory and Process efficiency calculation y y IE has the responsibility of keeping a tab on factory and process efficiency. Factory efficiency is calculated in terms of sewing floor efficiency which is calculated as follows: o Efficiency= (SAM production) / (480 manpower)
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The average of efficiencies of all the styles running in the factory for that particular month is taken.
Factory is blocked against set efficiency as per the orders being processed in that month. For blocking the efficiency the planning slab is referred.
The booked and average efficiencies are compared to get the performance of the factory.
The factory efficiency is daily monitored.
2. Utilization of jigs, folders and attachment for different operations and t hus making the operation easier y y y y y y y
Putting up special machine requirem ents as and when required Work place layout and environment: Pick up and disposing off then garment part Sitting posture Lighting conditions Layout setup for a particular style: PBS or Modular group plans Material movement
3. Identifying the bottle neck operations and taking steps to eliminate them y y
Eliminating unnecessary operations Motivating operator for the difficult operations and getting him the best possible method to do the operation
Increasing the number of machinery in -case of time taking operations
2.10.4. y y
ROLE OF IED IN PRODUCTION DEVELOPMENT
To make operation bulletin for each style To calculate SAM for each style with the help of GSD (General Sewing Data). The Sam includes personal fatigue allowance + machine delay allowance + bundle handling time. To calculate total number of machines required for each style. To calculate total number of operators and helpers required for each style. To allocate operator as per Skill Matrix for particular preparation.
y y y
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To calculate thread consumption per garment of each style from sample garment.
To calculate thread consumption for top stitch and bottom stitch according to SPI.
y y y
To calculate down time for each batch. To identify production loss and find the steps to reduce production loss. To identify steps to increase production efficiency.
2.10.5. y Received
DOCUMENTS
PO sheet and tech pack- for OB and SAM calculation Daily production reports- from production floor for keeping a check on the factory efficiency
y Generated
Operation bulletin Time and motion study Factory costing reports OCR- Order Completion Report DC-for getting machinery issued from the maintenance for batch setting. Though the Logistics Department consists of both the Production Planning as well as Industrial Engineering, its work is very much limited to Operation Bre akdown, calculation of SAM, Line setup, and maintaining records. This is so because of the contractor system followed by the company, due to which the Logistics department can only suggest the contractor as to how to do the work but they have no power to get anything implemented. As mentioned earlier, it all depends on the contractor as to how the line layout would look like, and how many workers would be working on which operation and also when.
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2.11. QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

Quality, can be defined as something which is right the first time, or can be said as following the standards been developed by making the specifications and documenting them in such a way that they can be communicated to all the employees of the organi ation. Quality is a pre dominant factor of a buyer buying the garments from the exporter and a important consideration while placing the order. The quality checkers are trained as soon as the new style comes in the factory as to how they have to check the garment. 2.11.1. WORK PROCESS OF THE DEPARTMENT
Fig 2.11.1 work process flow chart
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2.11.2. 1. Stores
CHECK POINTS
At this stage a small blanket of the fabric been sourced is cut and then taken for testing in the testing lab.
2. Cutting
At this stage while laying the operator herself check the lay and as the markers are developed on the CAD and transferred directly to the CAM thus operator does not have to check the marker.
3. Bundling and Ticketing
At this stage the bigger part of the garments are checked and send for recutting if any fault is found.
4. Sewing
In sewing, a 100 % inspection is done inline as well as end of line because the operators are new and are not consistent in the quality produced.
5. Dry Processing
After the garment are stitched and if they have any dry processing operation on them then at the time of garment is taken from the sewing floor they are checked by the quality checkers.
6. Washing
Before washing normally the quality check is not done as it is done before dry processing and thus this quality check ensure the quality of good coming to washing, after washing the shade are matched according to the shade band prepared and if the shade is not matching to the band or is not lying in the range th en it is rejected.
7. Finishing
This section has most number of quality checking point starting from the middle checking wherein the garment is checked from inside as well as outside, then it goes for a final check wherein the quality is checked by looking at the top side of the garment and giving it for the alteration if required. From there the garment goes for
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the measurement checking so as to ensure the fit of the garment. Lastly the garment is checked for its presentation and packed.
8. Final Audit
Final Audit is done internally (by quality auditor) as well as externally (by buyer's QC). They use statistical Quality Control as their tool as check few pieces so as to get the idea of the lot.
2.11.3.
DOCUMENTS BEING MAINTAINED:
1. Initial Report
This is also called Pilot run report. Pilot run is usually done for 100
150 pieces. The
construction, measurements and other specifications mentioned in the production package are checked in the pieces produced and visual auditing takes place. The bulk production begins only when the buyers QC gives an approval to this report. Internal quality auditors and buyers approved quality auditors do this initial checking.
2. Component Report
This report is made the very first day when the very first piece is manufactured . It contains information like construction details, placement of labels, embroidery, printing, patches, buttons and all the other embellishments. This report helps in checking when the bulk production starts.
3. In Line Audit
This audit or checking of pieces takes place after 10% of order quantity has been packed. The auditing is done on AQL 2.5 level. The quality auditors according to the AQL level chart take out number of pieces for the style, which have been packed. Then these pieces are checked for all the measurements, stitching and construction discrepancies. They mark the defects and keep them aside. The numbers of defective pieces are counted and if it doesnt meet the acceptance level specified in the chart then the whole packed shipment has to be opened and all the pieces are
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checked for defects and sent for mending. For example, if an auditor has a sample size of 20 pieces and he finds only one piece, which is defective then he can pass the shipment but if there are more than one pieces then t he whole shipment has to be re-screened. This audit is done both internally and externally and requisite reports maintained.
4. Mid Line Audit
This audit or checking of pieces takes place after 45%
50% of order quantity has
been packed. The auditing i s also done on AQL 2.5 level in the same manner as the in line audit. The only difference lies in the sample size, which is greater here.
5. Final Audit
This audit or checking of pieces takes place after 80% or more of order quantity has been packed.
6. Packing Audit
A packing list is prepared by the production department relating to each style that is being produced, finished and packed. The packing list states the quantity packed in each carton, the color, the size ratio etc. The quality auditors stud y this and the packing specifications of the buyers. Discrepancies like wrong size ratio, wrong color, wrong packing, missing shipping marks, faulty packing material used, defective poly bag and any other can lead to the rejection of the shipment. So as mentioned earlier also, the packing audit is most strict of all audits.
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2.12.
MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
Maintenance department as the name suggest tries to maintain all the machineries from cutting room to finishing and sampling department. They believe in the saying that "Prevention is better than cure ", but as the machine breakdown is quite unpredictable they try to mend the problem as soon and as fast as possible. They not only look after the machinery but also towards the attachments and the work aid requirement in conjunction with the industrial engineering department. They order the jigs and other atta chments to the supplier and regularly take a feedback from the operators so that the best option can be ordered for machines that are not having those attachments.
2.13.
FINANCE AND ACCOUNT
Accounts and finance, the department which keeps the track of all th e transaction that happens from the accounts of the company or its personnel. It calculates all the cost to set the CM cost for the merchandisers to use. They take into consideration following points:1. Manpower in the company 2. Power consumption 3. Maintenance 4. Administration cost 5. Machine 6. Land 7. Sundries and utility 8. Raw Materials, etc. They apportion the cost of the entire organization to production department, according to the productivity or the turnover of the department.
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2.14.
MACHINE DETAILS
Quantity 6 12 1 2 4 1 1 4 1 32 Quantity 2 12 4 5 2 1 26 Quantity 5 12 2 5 1 4 1 30 Quantity 25 17 2 12 2 2 1 1 60 Quantity 10 9
Line 1 (Ground Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Single Needle Edge Cutter Double Needle Lock Stitch Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Cover Seam Thread Trimming Total Line 2 (Ground Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Thread Trimming Total Line 3 (Ground Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Double Needle Lock Stitch Four Thread Over-lock Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Cover Seam Thread Trimming Total Line 4 (Ground Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Double Needle Lock Stitch Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Thread Trimming Rib Cutter Total Line 5 (Ground Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT)
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Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Cover Seam Thread Trimming Rib Cutter Total Line 6 (Ground Floor)
5 2 1 2 2 1 32
Machine Quantity Single Needle Lock Stitch 4 Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) 8 Four Thread Over-lock 5 Binding (Flat Lock) 5 Bottom Hem (Flat lock) 2 Thread Trimming 1 Zigzag 1 Rib Cutter 1 Total 27 Cutting (Section A Ground Floor) Machine Quantity Fabric Relaxation Machine 1 Straight Knife Cutting Machine 4 Band Knife Machine 1 Total 6 Finishing (Ground Floor) Machine Quantity Single Needle Lock Stitch 1 Cover Seam 1 Button Stitch 3 Heat Transfer S/Head 2 Heat Transfer D/Head 1 Needle Detector 1 Strapping Machine 1 Total 10 Sampling (Ground Floor) Machine Quantity Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) 3 Single Needle Chain Stitch 1 Four Thread Over-lock 1 Bottom Hem (Flat lock) 1 Total 6 Production (Ground Floor) Machine Quantity Embroidery/Kali Mundi 21 Total 21 Line 1 (First Floor) Machine Quantity Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) 8
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Four Thread Over-lock Six Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Total Line 2 (First Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Rib Cutter Total Line 3 (First Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Rib Cutter Total Line 4 (First Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Rib Cutter Total Line 5 (First Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Single Needle Edge Cutter Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Total Line 6 (First Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Single Needle Edge Cutter Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock)
3 1 2 2 16 Quantity 3 11 4 4 2 1 25 Quantity 17 10 4 1 1 1 34 Quantity 6 8 2 3 1 1 21 Quantity 5 9 2 5 3 2 26 Quantity 3 9 1 4 2
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Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Cover Seam Total Line 7 (First Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Total Cutting (Section B First Floor) Machine Fusing Straight Knife Cutting Machine Band Knife Machine Total Finishing (First Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Cover Seam Heat Transfer S/Head Heat Transfer D/Head Needle Detector Strapping Machine Total Sampling (First Floor) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat lock) Total Production (First Floor) Machine Embroidery/Kali Mundi Total Maintenance (Under Repair) Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Four Thread Over-lock Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat Lock) Button Hole Total Maintenance (Stock) Machine
2 1 24 Quantity 2 10 7 4 3 26 Quantity 1 2 1 4 Quantity 1 1 2 2 1 1 8 Quantity 2 1 1 1 1 6 Quantity 30 30 Quantity 17 1 1 2 1 22 Quantity
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Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Edge Cutter Single Needle Chain Stitch Double Needle Lock Stitch Double Needle Chain Stitch Kansai Smocking Six Thread Over-lock Over-lock (FOR) Elastic Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat Lock) Thread Trimming Saddle Stitch Zigzag Pico-ting Snap Button N/S 45 Straight Knife Cutting Machine Total Washing
13 2 5 1 1 7 5 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 3 1 1 3 50
Machine Capacity Quantity Washing Machine (Stefab) 100 kg 3 Hydro Extractor (Fabcare) 25 kg 2 Hydro Extractor (Local) 25 kg 1 Tumble Dryer (Ramsons) 70 kg 1 Tumble Dryer (Stefab) 100 kg 1 Tumble Dryer (Fabcare) 60 kg 1 Tumble Dryer (Ramsons) 60 kg 1 Total 10 Washing (Sampling) Machine Capacity Quantity Washing Machine (Fabcare) 20 kg 4 Hydro Extractor 12.5kg 1 Tumble Dryer 20 kg 2 Total Dry-Cleaning Machine Capacity Quantity Fibrimatic L2032 32 kg 2 BMM Weston Spencer 4000 20 kg 1 Total 3 Total Machine Quantity Single Needle Lock Stitch 105 Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) 156 Single Needle Edge Cutter 6 Single Needle Chain Stitch 6 Double Needle Lock Stitch 5 Double Needle Chain Stitch 1
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Kansai Smocking Four Thread Over-lock Six Thread Over-lock Over-lock (FOR) Elastic Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat Lock) Button Hole Button Stitch Fusing Heat Transfer S/Head Heat Transfer D/Head Embroidery/Kali Mundi Needle Detector Thread Trimming Saddle Stitch Zigzag Pico-ting Rib Cutter Snap Button N/S 45 Strapping Machine Fabric Relaxation Machine Straight Knife Cutting Machine Band Knife Machine Washing Machine Hydro Extractor Tumble Dryer Dry-Cleaning Machine Total
7 5 67 2 1 1 39 28 1 3 1 4 3 51 2 8 1 4 1 6 1 2 1 9 2 7 4 6 3 549
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PART 3 PROJECT
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3.1.
I.
Kai en Implementation
Objective
The objective of the project was to implement kai en on the sewing floor.
II. E =
Definition & Concept
KAI = Change ood ood Change Therefore, KAI E = r KAI E means continuous improvement or continual improvement
involving EVERYB
Y in the organi ation from the managers down to the workers
(or every level of employee) III. Kai en Further Defined y Kai en is an improvement suggestion to remove or rectify an abnormality in process, product and inputs. y Kai en in broader terms means continuing improvement in personal life, home life, social life and working life. When applied to the workplace, kai en means continuing improvement involving everyone- managers and workers (employees) alike. y Yet this emphasis on kai en does not mean that innovation can or should be forgotten. y Both, innovation and kai en are needed if the company is to survive and grow. y Kai en usually results in small improvements on day-to-day basis. Yet, because it is done continuously, ultimately gives large compounded improvements.
IV.
History y Kai en is a part of the quality revolution initiatives that started in Japan is 950s. y The famous Toyota production system is known for kai en.
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V.
Kaizen Versus Innovation
There are two contrasting approaches to improving quality and productivity.

y y y y
The gradual approach - kaizen The great leap approach- innovation Innovation is dramatic, a real attention -getter. Kaizen, on the other hand, is often un -dramatic and subtle, and its results are seldom immediately visible.
y y
Kaizen is a continuous process. Innovation is generally a one -shot phenomenon.
In any organization, we need both - kaizen and innovation. Yet, kaizen is imperative.
VI. Gemba Kaizen Commonsense low-cost approach to Management)
Gemba = Workplace Gembutsu = the tangible objects in gemba: machines, equipment, tools, jigs, fixtures, reject etc A process of continuously
y y y
Going to the workplace (where problem/abnormality is) Identifying the problem and it's root causes Reducing and eliminating muda (waste), mura (inconsistency) and muri (strain)
Solving the problem or improving the situation
VII.
Five Principles of Gemba Kaizen
1. When a problem/abnormality/opportunity occurs, go to gemba (the workplace) first 2. Check with gembutsu like machines, equipment, tools, jigs, fixtures or rejects etc 3. Take immediate or even temporary counter-measures on the spot 4. Find out the root cause and remove the root cause of the abnormality 5. Implement the solution and standardize to prevent further trouble/recurrence
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VIII.
Innovations/Breakthroughs and Daily Continuous Improvements Through Kaizen
Innovations/breakthroughs These high jump
are
brought are
about
in
any in
organization the new
occasionally or intermittently. There is a high jump in improvements. improvements incorporated practices/systems/processes.

y
Then, after one innovation/breakthrough, there may be a lull. Duri ng this lull period and in absence of daily management or continuous improvements through kaizen or gemba kaizen etc, these dramatically improved processes start degrading or deteriorating. And the processes become inefficient or ineffective. Lots of advantages of innovation disappear or are lost.
This is where daily management through continuous improvements comes in. It insists on daily performance and also, daily improvements. It keeps on maintaining and further improving the processes. The fall or degradation of processes is now just not possible. Therefore, daily management and daily improvements through kaizen, gemba kaizen, quality circles etc is in fact a management imperative. You cannot do without it (you may occasionally do without an innovation/breakthrough). It may not be as stunning or exciting as an innovation, yet, effective daily management and daily improvements are the foundation on which maximization of advantages due to innovation and company viability firmly stay.
IX.
Kaizen System in Practice The Format)
Kaizen or improvement suggestions can be given by an individual, by a small or large group or can be institutionalized as a Kaizen suggestion system.
y y y
It is continuous improvement in all aspects of life. It has total employee involvement (TEI) at its base. Suggestions are given to supervisor/manager and not dropped in a suggestion box (as in conventional suggestion scheme).
Kaizen emphasizes on implementation.
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y y y y X.
Every employee takes part and gives suggestions. Kaizen suggestions are evaluated quickly. Suggestions can be departmental as well as inter -departmental. Kaizen improves the dignity of the employees.
Kaizen Implementation Step I {Planning}
The Kaizen planning phase seeks to Define, Measure and Analyze the process that will be the Kaizen focus. There are three levels of Kaizen planning.
y High-Level Planning links
the Enterprise
Lean
Deployment
Strategy to the specific processes that need to be improved and the timeline for improvement.
y Mid-Level Planning uses Value Stream Mapping to select specific
areas of improvement that will be addressed through Kaizen events versus 6 sigma projects and just-do-it activities.
y Event-Level Planning uses checklists and standard documents to
ensure that everything is in place so each Kaizen event is conducted successfully. Event planning includes:
o Kaizen team member selection o Kaizen charter approval o Location preparation (including equipment, materials, etc.) o Data needs identification and preparation Outcome
1. Kaizen team formed comprising of 7 members including us (addressed as Lean Champions) lead by the Production Manager (Mr. L. P. Luthra) himself. 2. Kaizen charter was verbally approved. 3. Focus was decided to be the sewing floor (specifically line 5 & 6 on the first floor) for the first trial. 4. All the data regarding the running style (style # 20426), machinery on lines and workforce was collected.
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XI.
Kaizen Implementation Step II {Implement}
Kaizen event implementation, within the DMAIC framework, is primarily focused on actual Improvement, although some additional Measurement and Analysis may be required. Kaizen Implementation required the industry to:
y
Train members of the Kaizen team on the Lean principles that they will be applying
Review the VSM, and perform additional measurements and analyses, if needed
Facilitate
an
ideation/brainstorming
processes
to
identify
improvement options
y
Implement improvements by breaking apart the process and putting it back together without the waste
Prepare an action plan with a list of activities requ ired to complete the Kaizen process
Verify the alignment of the selected improvements with the future state VSM Identify expected measurable improvements Obtain participant feedback Report Kaizen results to Champions and celebrate success
y y y Outcome
1. Members of the Kaizen team taught about the basic lean principles 2. Line supervisors made aware of the lean initiative 3. Brainstorming conducted of probable improvements 4. Suggestions demanded from Kaizen team members as well as the line supervisors
XII. Kaizen Implementation Step III {Follow up}
This phase of the Kaizen process involves the completion of the Improvement and Control DMAIC elements. The success of the Kaizen depends on timely completion of the Improvement process and effective change management. This process involves:
y
Following-up to ensure that action items are completed
successfully
Working with Lean Champions to breakdown obstacles
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Measuring the actual results of the Kai en to document and quantify benefits
y Outcome
Establishing process control to ensure the ability to consistently obtain improved performance
1. Reduction of transportation waste in line 5 & 6 Style 20426 was a ladies top comprising of 19 operations on the sewing floor. The order quantity was 36792 pieces with the buyer being FMG. The daily target of both the lines was 850 pieces each. The estimated average output per day was 800 pieces. owever, the line could neither meet its daily target nor the estimated
average output. Though the contractor system was to blame for this, t here were several other changes that could be brought about. For instance, after the 11 th operation, a helper had to match the sleeve to the body before they were attached. For this, the helper took piles of pieces to the finishing section, matched the sle eve to body, and then returned it back to the line. This was unnecessary, and can be regarded as transportation waste. Finishing Section
At the end of the sewing line lay the machines required for the previous style. They occupied extra space. ence, they were removed and a table was introduced to the
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line, where the helper could match the sleeve to body without wasting time going to the finishing section. This slightly boosted the line productivity.
ew = ew table introduced in the line Time Saved = 5 minutes per 50 pieces 2. Saving bobbin rewinding time This method was particularly applied to all the lines in the concerned unit. Every worker was provided with two bobbins and two thread spools instead of one each. e/she was supposed to use to the first one in the sewing machine for stitching and the other pair was simultaneously affixed on the rewinding slot. While the worker operated, the other bobbin was eventually wound. As the thread of the first bobbin gets finished, the worker spends absolutely no time on rewinding; he simply uses the second bobbin and affixes the first on the rewinding slot. This way, not a single second was wasted on bobbin rewinding. Bobbin winding time = 35 seconds (approx.) Bobbin changeover time = 25 seconds (approx.) Earlier, it took about a minute to rewind the bobbin and change it altogether. owever, after implementation of this technique, and elimin ation of bobbin rewinding time, bobbin changeover took only about 25 seconds. XIII. Kai en Implementation Step IV Evaluate}
This is the last phase of the Kai en process cycle. A ean enterprise is a learning organi ation that recogni es Kai en as a continuous process of improvement through:
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y y
Identifying improvements to the Kaizen implementation process Encouraging opportunities employees to identify further improvement
y Outcome
Establishing a schedule to re-evaluate the VSM and start a new Kaizen improvement cycle
1. The workers were identified as the next possible group of people who needed to be educated about continuous improvement, as they can give suggestions like no one else. 2. Though we were to leave the Kaizen team, the team members were encouraged to keep the process alive; & they intended to. 3. The Kaizen team was scheduled to meet every Monday morning and consider various improvement strategies, & implement them (if any) in the following week.
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3.2.
Improving Sewing Floor Productivity
{Contractor system
benefits} I. Objective
The greatest obstacle & the cause of inability to quantify
The objective of the project was to increase the sewing floor productivity.
II.
Methodology
Deliverable
Though a few more suggestions were made in Kaizen implement ation project, it was pretty hard to incorporate them. Also, any change made in the line, didnt make much difference to the output of the line its solution that was implemented in detail.
y y
neither positive nor negative. The prime
cause of this was the contractor system. Below mentioned is the probl em, as well as Style # 970920 was a ladies top with an order quantity of 5176 pieces. The style comprised of about 20 operations with the daily target being 850 pieces and estimated average output per day as 800 pieces.
y y
The line was introduced with about 240 pieces on 6 th June, 2011. However, the first output from the line came on 11 th June, which is about six days after the introduction of first input in the line.
y y
The line failed to give any output before that. As per the estimated average output per day, the order should have been completed within a maximum of 7 days, which is by 12 th June, 2011. Unfortunately, even on 20 th of June, 2011, the total output of the line was only 4025 pieces, before we finally forfeited on the line.
The order that should have been completed within a week failed to finish even on the 15 th day. The one & probably the only cause of this was the contractor system . The workers on the sewing floor are employed through a contractor. Their pay is determined by the number of pieces produced. The contractor, who is the same for all the 13 lines, never follows the line plan exactly.
y y y y
y y
Also, all the workers follow only his directions. Absenteeism is very high and can be regarded as intolerabl e.
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Since, the pay is determined by per piece produced, none of the workers would work in place of a missing worker.
y y
Factory timings are not followed strictly. Even after all these shortcomings, not a single shipment is delayed to over-time! thanks
Just 2-3 days before the shipment, the contractor makes the worker to work over-time and somehow manages to complete the order.
y y
This in turn, makes the task of the finishing section difficult. The losses (over-time running costs & inability to maintain quality s tandards) generated are incurred by none other than the company. After a month and a half of constant nagging, we were finally authorized to run a line without the interference of the contractor for 2 days. Style # 85683 had an order quantity of 37550 piec es. The style comprised of about 24 operations with the daily target being 800 pieces and estimated average output per day as 750 pieces.
y y
The line, similar to any other line, failed to generate any output for the first five days. We were authorized to handle the line on 18 th & 19th of July, 2011, which happened to be the 9 th & 10th running day of the line.
y y
The particular line, line 1, was assigned with a total of 7598 pieces. In the first eight days, the line produced only 1264 pieces.
Daily Production Style # 85683) Line 1
Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 Day 5 Day 6 Day 7 Day 8

y
298 464 502
The workers, working on line 1 were asked to follow the timings strictly on 16 th July 2011.
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All of them were informed that their presence is mandatory on Monday & Tuesday (18 th-19th July).
The line had been rearranged on Sunday, which had been previously working according to the contractors demands.
With just the above three changes, the output of the next day was 706 pieces, totalling the lines output to 1970 pieces. By 18th July, out of 7598 pieces, approximately 7000 pieces were introduced in the line.
y y
The output was still because of the built -in WIP. On 18th evening the line was yet again rearranged; this time in order to reduce the WIP.
Multiple machines were appointed at bottlenecks and places where WIP had been stacked up. On 19th, the workers sat according to new line, against their (& the contractors) will, of course, as it was only meant for a day.
y y
The days output sky-rocketed to 862 pieces (t arget being 800). Even though, we required extra time rearranging the lines, it was definitely better than running an entire over -time shift. Also, the extra time was due to previous flaws in the line & wouldnt have been required had the line been running smoothly from the first day.
Our point was well proven.
Note: - The line returned back to its normal lack -lustrous form the next day.
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PART 4 LEARNING EXPERIENCE
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4. LEARNING EXPERIENCE
The Apparel Internship at Orient Craft Limited, Gurgaon had been an extremely educating. The journey from fabric to garment has greatly enhanced our knowledge and understanding of the Apparel Industry. Apart from the theoretical knowledge of the various processes involved in the garment manufacturing gained through the books, seeing everything being done practically was a great learning experience. During the internship we have observed many new (& sometimes obsolete) processes and techniques being practi ced in the industry. It also gave us an idea as to how greatly the theoretical ways differ from the commercial and practical ways. Through the internship project we also learnt about the managerial aspect of the Apparel Industries. We got a brief on the a ctual working conditions of the industry. One learning experience worth mentioning was definitely the contractor system. Though it was the cause of many discrepancies, it had its advantages as well. In India, Orient Craft Limited is not the only industry that follows such practice. There are numerous industries employing the workers on contract basis, especially in the northern region, the reasons being obvious. But, however soothing the advantages may sound; the problems associated are far more concernin g. Anyhow, it turned out to be a great and probably the most interesting learning experience. The eight weeks of training in the apparel industry ensured a practical orientation towards the understanding of the industry, the infrastructure, set up, and fu nctioning of the company and gears us to undertake future responsibilities.
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PART 5 APPENDIX
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[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

CONTENTS Page No.

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

PART 1 COMPANY PROFILE

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

Per arment 5.00 6.00 .20 .50 .20 .50 .00

% etail Price 0.08 0. 2 0.02 0.03 0.02 0.03 0.02

Orient Craft's Export Market

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[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

To 6.30 pm 11.15 am 2.00 pm 4.15 pm

HUMAN RESOURCE POLICIES

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

PROCESS FLOW OF THE COMPANY

Garm nt Washing (if r quir d)

Embr id ry / Printing (if any)

Fabric Washing / R laxati n

Raw Mat rial Insp cti n

Acquisiti n f Raw Mat r ial

Siz S t Sampl Appr val

Int racti n with Buy r

Pr -Pr ducti n M ting

Pr t typ Appr val

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PART 2 DEPARTMENT STUDY

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2.1.1. PACKAGE FILE

It consist of following reports

required for future references (buyer related)

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

ii. Shade bands iii. Wash swatch/wash mocks iv. Embroidery/printing

all concerned and important mails

of cartons, number of pieces and sending factorys name.

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2. .3. COSTING FACTORS

Fig. .1.1 diagram of costing factors

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2.1. . PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING

Fig. 2. .2 process flow chart

[INTERNSHIP AT ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED, GURGAON ]

2.1.5. DOCUMENTS PREPARED 1. TNA Time and Action)

2. BOM Bill of Materials)

It is the list of all the materials required in making of a garment.

3. Purchase Order P.O.)

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4. Bill passing report

7. Initial marker planning sheet

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2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

Fig. 2.2.1 hierarchy of the department

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2.2.3. TYPES OF SAMPLES

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2.2.4. LABOR DETAILS

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