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No. 30, January - April 2016

No. 30 - 5z


Your Guide to the

City of Cinema

At AnDels Hotel loDz


Discover andels Hotel Lodz, an architectural pearl The excellent location on the grounds of the MaA
in the
heart of
with life
and and
in the
XIX century
and is
on the
in pearl
carefully andels
de- The
the grounds
sign is complemented by a unique collection of levard, make the hotel a new hotspot for urban
by brick.
The hotels
de- near
admire a brick
of contemporary
artworks. Street, the citys longest bouPolishcan
sign is complemented by a unique collection of levard, make the hotel a new hotspot for urban
Polish contemporary artists.
Destination: d Benefits: Modern design in an industrial monument
explore: www.andelslodz.com
Destination: d Benefits: Modern design in an industrial monument
explore: www.andelslodz.com
ul. Ogrodowa 17, 91-065 d, tel. +48 42 279 10 00, info@andelslodz.com, www.andelslodz.com


The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity

Arrival & Transport

City Basics
Basic History


Culture & Events 14









Off Piotrkowska


Essential d


Jewish d










Maps & Index

City Centre Map
City Map


Regional Map


Street Index


Listings Index


Features Index



The festive lights go bright when dusk turns to night on the Citys main drag.


January - April 2016

Happy 2016 and welcome to wonderful wintery d
(ph. pr. woodge)! We are proud to be celebrating our 30th
Edition of d In Your Pocket and equally excited to
kick off what is sure to be a landmark year for this postindustrial Polish pearl. With all sorts of huge investments
being rolled out throughout the year and a ton of
upcoming events and festivals, we will be doubling our
efforts to bring you all the latest news and updates. Weve
been busy in the last few years improving our print guides,
building a new website, expanding our social media reach
and we are looking forward to launching a brand new
IYP App later this year.

IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sawkowska 12, 31-014 Krakw
Company Office & Accounts
General Manager: Magorzata Drzszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716
10,000 copies published 3 times per year
Editor: Thymn Chase; Contributing Writer: Cameron Eves;
Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan,
Anna bikowska; Layout: Tom Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff,
Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket
unless otherwise stated;
Cover Pawe Augustyniak. Courtesy of d City Council.

Of course all of this is all well and good, but the bottom
line is that if you are reading this, it is winter in d, which
can be a bit bleak. This is where we come in. This city is
packed with great museums, a cutting edge culinary scene,
a vibrant nightlife and hosts some of Polands best concerts
and events, all of which you now have at your fingertips. If
you are visiting d in March there are two special events
at ds very own Atlas Arena - the star-studded classical
and pop crossover extravaganza that is Night of the
Proms or for you hip hop fans out there - the one and only
Macklemore! Read more about these great events and
many more in our Culture and Events section on page 14.

Sales & Circulation

Krakw/Katowice/Tarnw Manager:
Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
Warsaw Manager: Klaudia Briss 606 749 643
Pozna/Wrocaw Manager: Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642
Gdask/d Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824
Copyright Notice & Editors Note
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City
Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD
ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form without written permission from the
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.

The Holiday Season in Poland seems to last longer than in
other parts of the world, which is great if youre visiting in
January as there is always plenty going on. If you are lucky
enough to be in town on January 10th make sure to go
out of your way to take part in The Great Orchestra of
Christmas Charity. Read all about it on page 6.















d In Your Pocket

Our new digital platform, online

at inyourpocket.com, is a radically
redesigned and restructured resource
which places the visitor at the heart of
the cities we cover. The new website
puts you in total control of our content
on whatever desktop, laptop, tablet or
mobile device you are using. Give it a
go: its the biggest digital leap forward
we have ever taken and entrenches
our position as a game-changing
publisher in all formats. Meantime, back
in the world of print, we are close to
completing the first issue of Kaliningrad
IYP: watch this space for more info.
To keep up with all thats new at In Your
Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.
com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Symbols of precious moments

Lilou is an upscale jewelry brand whose philosophy is to
create unique, engraving jewelry, customized and
customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your
life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased.
Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k.
plated-gold, and can be accessorized with strings,
ribbons, leather bracelets, stones, crystals and pearls.

D, 18 Piotrkowska Street


Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise

The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity

A volunteer collects donations and hands out hearts at the GOCC.

Photo by: Mariusz Cieszewski, Flickr.com, CC BY-ND 2.0

Its that time of year again - the day when literally every
single person you encounter on the street will be sporting
a red heart sticker (and those who dont will be endlessly
harassed by unnaturally cheerful people with collection
boxes). What are they for? Theyre proof that you donated
to the largest National Christmas Charity in Poland.
Though sounding a bit like the title of a Charlie Brown
Christmas Special, the Great Orchestra of Christmas
Charity (known in Polish as the Wielka Orkiestra
witecznej Pomocy) is actually one of Polands biggest
non-profit charity organisations, successfully raising millions
of zoty for the Polish healthcare system and under-funded
public hospitals since 1993. Founded by Jerzy Owsiak - a
man who can best be described as a bespectacled force
of nature GOCC changes its beneficiary cause each
year, but focuses on raising awareness and lots of money
for childrens healthcare issues. In only its first year, the
organisation raised over 1.5 million USD and its annual
finale has since become the biggest event of its kind in
Poland, raising over 150 million USD to date.

Every city in PL will be doing its part with a wide and varied
programme of events as volunteers with their recognisable
red collection buckets rove about encouraging everyone
to reach into their pockets. This year is the 24th Annual
GOCC and the charitable aims of the organisation will be
broadened to also include several projects benefiting the
elderly as well as therapy and equipment for infants and
babies. Everything concludes simultaneously across the
country at 20:00 with a simultaneous fireworks display
known as the Light to Heaven. A truly virtuous and
remarkably successful project, those who have enough
heart to contribute will receive one as well - the iconic red
sticker which you will see on everyone in town this day.
Indeed the stickers are so prolific that to not have one is a
bit of an embarrassment. Go on, Scrooge. Its for the kids.
This year in d will feature all kinds of attractions and
most of the action will go down on Piotrkowska street with
the main stage being located smack dab in the middle near
94-96 PIotrkowska. The fun begins at 14:00 on January
10th with a Giant Parade which will include classic cars,
60 horses from 20 stables with riders decked out in different
outfits - ancient Romans, medieval royalty etc. The Parade
will wind through ul. Piotrkowska, ul. Rewolucji 1905, ul.
Wschodnia, ul. Pomorska, Pl. Wolnoci, ul. Legionw, ul.
Prchnika and back onto Piotrkowska. Between 12:00
and 17:00 there will be a huge Urban Picnic near the
intersection of ul. Piotrkowska and Al. Schillera with many
attractions for the kids such as Fire Brigades, City Guards,
pony rides, riding lessons for children and a food stand with
Polish cuisine. From 14:00 - 19:00 there will be a Slavic and
Viking Village set up (located in Pasa Rubinsteina) and
the main concerts kick off on the mainstage at 15:00. Local
bands will play straight through till 20:00 when the sky will
light up and the Fireworks will rain down. Its all for free but
be prepared to put your hand in your pocket more than
once as its all for a very good cause.
10.01 SUNDAY
QA1, Manufaktura, ul. Drewnowska 58, www.wosp.org.pl.

The d mounted City Guard lead the Great Orchestra parade

Courtesy of The City Guard

Once a year the Great Orchestras grand one-day finale is

organised by volunteers in virtually every town in Poland,
with hundreds of bands volunteering to play free fund-raising
concerts - some 800 concerts featuring 1300 performing
artists and 120,000 volunteers nationwide. The grand
finale traditionally takes place on the second Sunday of
the new year, making this years event January 10th.

d In Your Pocket


Arrival & Transport

In spite of being Polands third largest city ds links to the
outside world leave much to be desired, though the birth
of the budget flight has at least opened a few new routes.
Travelling to other destinations in Poland, barring Warsaw that
is, can be a trial. Fortunately once youre here youll find the
city has a well-developed tram and bus network as well as a
bountiful supply of cheap taxis. If youre traversing Piotrkowska,
the principal high street, then take advantage of one of the
dirt-cheap rickshaws that zip up-and-down the street.

Bus travellers to d used to be dropped at the central
d Fabryczna station, but Fabrycznas massive renovation
means buses are picking up and dropping off primarily
from Kaliska station (though other points around town
are used as well). Expect this annoyance to continue until
Fabryczna reopens in mid 2016.
The d bus station took up the eastern part of d
Fabryczna train station, and since its under renovation buses
have been scattered around town. Express and international
buses depart from d-Kaliska (there is parking in front of the
post office) and international tickets can be purchased from
the booking office which is open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 13:00 and closed Sun (the domestic ticket office is open daily
05:30 - 20:00). There is no left luggage, but you will find toilets
and kiosks for transport tickets and mobile phone needs.
In addition to Kaliska there is another bus station, Dworzec
Pnocny PKS, located at ul. Smugowa 30/32 where you
can catch more local busses. Note that all buses to Warsaw
leave from Kaliska. Departure locations for buses to Lublin
and other destinations should be checked via the website or
phone number that are listed under d Kaliska bus station.
If you arrive at d-Kaliska you have your choice of taking
a taxi from the rank outside or cheaping out and taking the
tram. Take trams 12 or 14 to get to the neighbourhood of
Piotrkowska. Bus 98 is also an option. Make sure to check
the latest tram and bus prices on www.mpk.lodz.pl before
your trip.QE4, Al. Wkniarzy (parking in front of the
post office), tel. (+48) 42 631 97 06, www.pks.lodz.pl.

For someone taking to the road today the following
warnings should be taken into account. Firstly when driving
outside of built-up areas you will typically find yourself
sharing a single lane road with anything from a sports car
convertible to an old bloke in charge of a horse and cart.
Throw in the huge fleet of lorries that traverse Poland and
you will commonly find yourself in a situation where traffic
is blocked behind said lorries/horse/tractor. This results in
frustrated/impatient drivers overtaking each other at high
speed and then braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffic.
Be warned and keep a safe distance between you and the
vehicle in front.

d In Your Pocket

For those brave enough to venture out on the road, the

following information should be noted. Poland has strong
drink-driving laws: 0.2 is the maximum blood/alcohol
limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens
may use their home driving licenses as long as they are
valid, however citizens of countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licenses invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone
we know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your
license and passport at all times when driving.
The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between
23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/
hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All
cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. A new
law was introduced in April 2007 making it compulsory to
have headlights switched on at all times. Car related crime
is high and drivers should make use of guarded car parks
where possible.
Connecting d with the outside world are the E75
running north, the E30 going north east, the west bound
A2, the south running E75, and road number 72 heading
to the east. Once in d the first thing youll notice is
the treacherous state of many of the roads, and youd
be advised to make sure the shock absorbers are in full
working order. Car crime in Poland is rife, and we fully
suggest taking advantage of one of the two guarded car
parks in the city. If youre parking on the street youll be
paying 1z for the first half hour, then 2z for the first full
hour, increasing from there.
QE2, ul. Sterlinga 21, tel. (+48) 791 55 33 32.
QG3, ul. agiewnicka 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 657 67 84.

As Polands third largest city d gets its fair share of air
passengers, and with a brand new terminal the experience
of flying in to and out of the city has gotten increasingly
more pleasant (well, as pleasant as flying can be, anyway).
Travel agency providing tickets to far corners of the earth,
general travel and airport information, low-cost carriers and
regular lines, as well as promising the best offers from d
and the rest of Poland. Info available from 07:00 - 21:00.
QF5, ul. Gen. Stanisawa Maczka 35 (d Wadysaw
Reymont Airport), tel. (+48) 42 683 52 55, www.lotnisko.
d Wadysaw Reymont Airport (Port Lotniczy d im.
Wadysawa Reymonta) opened a brand new terminal in
June 2012 that significantly enlarged the airports capacity

Arrival & Transport

and which now handles all arrivals and departures. Inside
youll find Hertz, National, Europcar and Avis car hire stands,
an ATM to withdraw Polish currency, a currency exchange
office (kantor), a police point and two places to grab food,
One Minute and Stop & Eat express bar. Taxis hover outside
the terminal when planes arrive, and a journey to the centre
is around 30-40z. Two taxi companies, Taxi 400 400 (42 640
04 00) and Taxi Plus (800 500 500) are permitted to pick up
from the airport and can be trusted. The bus stop is directly
outside the main entrance though neither bus (55 or 65)
drops you particularly close to the main street, Piotrkowska.
QF5, ul. Gen. Stanisawa Maczka 35, tel. (+48) 42 683
52 55, www.lotnisko.lodz.pl.


d can boast a well-developed network of bus and tram

routes that traverse the city, however at the moment transit
is very much under construction - to the point where
running our usual tram map doesnt make sense. Be aware
that delays are prevalent and factor extra time into your
journey. The comprehensive website at www.mpk.lodz.
pl features full English translation of content, including
timetables for all routes, general information and ticket
prices. A brief exploration of the website will reveal that
venomous animals are banned from public transport, as
are people who are slovenly, scruffy or give off an offensive
smell. Reassuring, but in reality completely untrue. Tickets
(bilety) can be purchased from most streetside kiosks, at
some onboard machines or from the driver (for a single
trip that doesnt require changing vehicles) and must be
validated on boarding the tram or bus by punching them
into the metal boxes (kasowniks) found next to the doors.
Failure to do so will result in a 70z fine (if paid in 7 days; after
it goes up to 200z) if youre caught by one of the undercover
ticket inspectors. Prices are currently as follows (though they
may go up in 2016 so check the website to be sure):
2.60z (1.30z) 20 minutes
3.40z (1.70z) 40 minutes
Interestingly the city has thoughtfully bumped up the
ticket times by 20 minutes because of the construction
and public transit renovations in the city; that means a
20 minute ticket is now good for 40 minutes, a 40 is good
for 60, etc. In addition a single trip ticket from the driver is
3.80z, and one day passes can be purchased from kiosks
(12/6z). Both trams and buses usually operate from 05:00
until 23:00 after which night buses (marked with an N)
serve the city.

With the city lying in the centre of the country, Lodz
is a crossroads for many of the rail networks covering
the country. It doesnt actually have one central station
though which means trains pass through d using
two of the three main stations - Kaliska (generally for
east/west routes) and Widzew (north/south routes).
The third major station is d Fabryczna and while
being the most central of the three, it is also a deadend with trains from Warsaw terminating here, and
currently closed for renovations.
The d - Warsaw line has undergone a major
overhaul, but nowadays the once 90-minute journey
has inflated to two hours. Other inter city links remain
in pretty poor shape. You can take trains directly from
d to most major Polish cities but the speed on many
can be slow and minor delays are standard. At present a
250km journey to Krakw will take three to four hours.
Gdask, 370km away, will take around 5 and a half
hours. It is worth checking the useful website www.
rozklad-pkp.pl for the best connection but you will
often find the quickest way, especially once the new
line is open, is to travel to Warsaw and then onto your
destination from there.
With d Fabryczna on hiatus during renovations d
Kaliska has seen an uptick in traffic. The station handles
the additional visitors well and offers all the essentials ATMs, toilets and kiosks for transport tickets and mobile
phone needs. A taxi rank outside will get you to the
center of the city for 20-25z. Cheapskates can get the
12 tram at the Dworzec d Kaliska tram stop and
get off at the Kociuszki tram stop (7-8min) for quick
access to Piotrkowska.QG4, Al. Unii Lubelskiej 3/5,
tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones),
www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system
maintenance, seat reservations cannot be made
from 24:00 to 01:00.
With the closure of d Fabryczna recently, d
Widzew now enjoys more traffic. Fortunately it was
modernised recently and now includes a waiting
room and toilets (also for disabled), press kiosk, caf
and unreliable Wi-Fi. The station itself is closed from
23:15 - 04:00. If you want to save on cab money walk
the 200 metres to the Puszkina tram stop (from ul.
Subowa walk to ul. Adamieckiego and turn right
onto ul. Rokiciska and youre there). Catch bus 75 from
the Dworzec d Widzew bus stop and get off at the
Lodowa stop. From there take tram 3 and get off at
the Manufaktura stop. The trip will take you around 20
minutes.QJ4, ul. Subowa 8, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757
(from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open
24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance, seat
reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.
January - April 2016

Arrival & Transport

Avis, the global leader in car
rentals, offer short and long
rental cars, vans and chauffeur
driven vehicles, including everything from small city cars
to shared vans. Over 1,000 models are available with all
equipped with air conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure
both comfort and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation
from experts in professionalism, convenience and safety.
City centre location. Also available at the airport upon
request.QD4, ul. kowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton
d), tel. (+48) 607 03 63 08, www.avis.pl. Open 09:00
- 17:00. Sat, Sun open on request.
Full range of Ford cars available for rental in 1-2 day
increments, 3-4, 5-7 and longer periods. Transits and
combis also on offer, as well as online booking.QF5, ul.
Obywatelska 181, tel. (+48) 601 68 96 05, www.mieszek.
com.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun open on request.
Europcar is one of the biggest car rental companies and
offers eight different categories of vehicles to choose
from. The airport location makes it easy to nab a car and
dash.QH2, ul. Gen. Stanisawa Maczka 35 (Airport), tel.
(+48) 42 253 14 04, www.europcar.com.pl. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Outside of
these hours open by prior arrangement.
Also at d Wadysaw Reymont Airport (open daily 08:00
- 22:00). tel. (+48) 42 686 60 01.QC6, Al. Kociuszki 68
(Hotel wiatowit), tel. (+48) 42 636 46 39, www.hertz.
com.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun open on request.

Taxis in d are generally trustworthy although you
should guard against unscrupulous drivers by going for
taxis which have clearly displayed prices (normally found
in the rear passenger window). As a yardstick rates should
be around 6z the moment you get in and then around
2z per kilometre. You should expect to pay approximately
50% more at night and on Sundays and public holidays.
A standard day fair to/from the airport from the centre of
d will cost around 30-40z.
MERC RADIO TAXIQtel. (+48) 42 650 50 50,
MPT TAXIQD4, tel. (+48) 42 191 91, www.19191.org.
TAXI 400 400Qtel. (+48) 42 640 04 00, www.400.pl.
TAXI DWA DWAQtel. (+48) 42 196 22, www.96-22.pl.
TAXI NOVAQtel. (+48) 42 611 11 11, www.taxinova.pl.
10 d In Your Pocket


City Basics


Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea
(528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of December 18,
2015 based on 1 = 4.24z

Longest River
The river Vistula (Wisa) is Polands longest river at
1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before
reaching the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra
Mountains to the south of Poland.
Population (2015)
Poland - 38,478,602
Warsaw - 1,735,442
Krakw - 761,873
d - 706,004
Wrocaw - 634,487
Pozna - 545,680
Gdask - 461,489
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in d its 11:00 in London,
12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish
summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last
Sundays of March and October.

Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are
round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are
coming from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to
need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at
home as our residents Brits will testify although if you do
arrive without a covertor you can try your hotel concierge
or reception. If they dont have one the best place to pick
one up is at one of the big electrical outlets often situated
on the edge of town.


In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public payphone should use the following numbers: 999
for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the call operator.

McDonald's Big Mac

0.5ltr vodka (shop)
0.5ltr beer (shop)
0.5ltr beer (bar)
Loaf of white bread
20 Marlboros
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
Local transport ticket (1 journey)

9.20 z
1.69 z
23.99 z
2.99 z
8.00 z
1.99 z
15.00 z
4.65 z
3.80 z


English, German and Russian speakers have the option of

using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in
distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77. Both
numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land
line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles
during your stay. The lines are active year round with later
hours during the high-tourist season.
Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates,
of which a comprehensive list can be found in the directory
section. If youve run out of money, however, then silly
you. No embassy will bail you out, and and your hopes will
rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and
many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such
transactions, just keep an eye out for anywhere displaying
the Western Union logo.
For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section
at the back of this guide.


In general Lodz is far safer than most Western cities, and
visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does
exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets
working tram and bus routes by the train stations. If youre
in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those
travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park.
Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using
clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around

January 1, 2016
January 6, 2016
March 27, 2016
March 28, 2016

New Years Day

Three Kings
Easter Sunday
Easter Monday
January - April 2016


City Basics
Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy
command of the English language. Many are also adept
at other European languages with German being the most
commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that
they have forgotten the Russian taught to them at school
but most will still have a reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal,
often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants
laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few
key phrases will smooth your time in d and may even
win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult
languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside,
unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they
are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to
pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many
letters represent the same sounds as they do in English,
below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by
some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

sounds like on in the French bon

sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases

Hi/Bye (informal)
Hello/Good day (formal)
Good evening (formal)
Good Night
Thank you
Excuse me/Sorry

Dzie dobry
Dobry wieczr
Do widzenia

(Jen doh-bri)
(Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
(Doh veet-zen-ya)

My name is...
Im from England.
Do you speak English?
I dont speak Polish.
I dont understand.
Two beers, please.
Where are the toilets?
You are beautiful.
I love you.
Please take me home.
Call me!

Mam na imi...
Jestem z Anglii
Czy mwisz po angielsku?
Nie mwi po polsku.
Nie rozumiem.
Dwa piwa prosz.
Na zdrowie!
Gdzie s toalety?
Jeste pikna.
Kocham ci.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
Zadzwo do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh)

(Yehstem zanglee)
(Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
(Dvah peevah prosheh.)
(Nah zdrovyeh!)
(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
(Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
(Ko-hahm chuh.)
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Train station
Bus station
One ticket to

Dworzec PKP
Dworzec PKS
Jeden bilet do

(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
(Yeh-den bee-let doh)

12 d In Your Pocket

the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned state

company MPT (tel. 42 191 91) is possibly the best bet, and
their switchboard features English speaking operators. The
vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train stations
are by and large harmless and easily ignored.
Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier
for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are
rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If youre determined
to make an idiot of yourself then make sure its not in
front of the law. Those who do may well be treated to
a trip to Lodzs premier drunk tank (ul. Kiliskiego 232),
which unlike other cities is a rehabilitation clinic for
addicts that can involve a 6-24 hour stay. The experience
is free of charge and nets you a strip search, a set of
blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling
vagrants. Those resisting arrest may well find themselves
strapped down to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoos
The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by
jaywalking. Local city police will quite freely give you a 100z
fine for crossing at a place where no crossing is marked or
a 100z fine when the light is red. And dont think you are
exempt by being a visitor. In fact your non-residency means
you will need to pay the fine on the spot.

For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century,
many turned to the church for solace and during the
communist era, underground resistance meetings were
surreptitiously held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a
genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way
more profound than cynics in the West can understand.
Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II singlehandedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central
and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average
Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the
more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish
enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn
and opulent processions that occur from time to time and
the droves that flock to mass.

Water in Poland is officially safe to drink although the quality
of plumbing in many places can affect the water delivered
to your tap. We therefore recommend that you use bottled
water, which is widely available and inexpensive. In
restaurants tourists are surprised to find a glass of water
is not compulsory, and ordering some typically results
in the receipt of a tiny glass bottle that will barely wet
your whistle. Beer is often a better bet since its cheaper
and arrives in larger quantities, but if youre set on having
water its best to learn the difference between gazowana
(carbonated water) and niegazowana (still water).

Basic History
d first appears in written
records in 1332 under the
name of odzia. In 1423
King Wadysaw Jagiello
grants city rights to the
village of d. The town
remains no more than a rural
backwater for the following
centuries, with a population
numbering just 800 as late as
the 16th century.

In 1939 World War II begins when Nazi Germany launches

an attack on Polands military posts on Westerplatte (now
part of Gdask). d holds out until September 8 and is
annexed into the Reich in November of the same year.
The northern part of the city is turned into a ghetto, with
approximately 200,000 Jews confined within its walls,
of which only around 900 are thought to have survived
the ghettos liquidation in 1944. The city is liberated
on January 18, 1945 by the Red Army. The pre-war
population is decimated with an estimated 300,000
Jews and 120,000 Poles killed during the six years of

After the Great Northern War (1700-1721), Poland is more

or less absorbed into the Russian Empire. The country
will suffer through three humiliating partitions in the latter
half of the century. In 1793 the second partition of Poland
sees d come under Prussian control and renamed

From 1945 onward Poland falls under the Soviet sphere
of influence. Business is nationalized and political and
religious leaders are imprisoned. With much of the capital,
Warsaw, in ruins, d is used as Polands temporary
capital until 1948. In 1947 the Communists consolidate
a political monopoly after rigged elections. In 1955
the Warsaw Pact is created. Wadysaw Gomuka
becomes Polands premier in 1956 and a political thaw
begins. Events in Gdask are the first to rock the system;
protesting about plunging living standards workers at
the Lenin Shipyards call a strike in 1970, with the army
promptly called in to intervene. 1978 sees Cardinal Karol
Wojtya elected as Pope and taking the name John
Paul II. The following year he returns for a nine day tour
of his native Poland in what is regarded by many as the
pivotal point in the collapse of communism. Preaching 32
sermons in nine days his brief return offers hope and unity
to Poles, and lights the flame that will later explode in the
Solidarno (Solidarity) revolution.

Napoleons march eastward sees his army greeted as
liberators and in 1806 the town is incorporated into the
Duchy of Warsaw. Napoleons subsequent disastrous
campaign in Russia sees his troops return to France in
tatters and in 1815 d becomes part of the Russiancontrolled Congress of Poland. In 1820 statesman,
philosopher and writer Stanisaw Staszic starts a
campaign to turn d into a centre of manufacturing.
The first cotton mill is opened in 1825 and in 1839
the first steam-powered factory in Poland and Russia
is officially opened. Within a matter of decades the city
has grown into the biggest textile production centre
in the Russian Empire. By 1870 the population has
mushroomed in size to over 70,000. The city enjoys its
most intense industrial growth between 1870-1890,
during which time vast fortunes are made by the major
industrialist families. Dissatisfaction amongst the working
classes grows, and the city becomes a hotbed of socialist
unrest. 1892 sees massive strikes grip the city.
The huge gaps in living standards between the rich and
the poor come to a head in 1905 when the city is plunged
into open revolution. Over 300 workers and protestors are
killed as the Tsarist police force regain control of the city.
By the outbreak of WWI d rates as one of the most
densely populated cities on the planet with a population
of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.
1915 sees the city come under German occupation
though three years later the end of the war restores
Polish independence. The city loses nearly over 40% of
its population owing to the post-war worldwide influenza
epidemic and a huge social migration of its German
inhabitants. In 1922 the city becomes the capital of the
d Voivodship but the citys golden age has drawn to
a close. ds textile trade faces collapse after losing both
Russian and German markets and strikes and civil unrest
become a feature of inter-war d.

1980 A general strike is called in August by the

fledgling Solidarno trade union, led by
shipyard electrician Lech Wasa.
1981 Martial law is declared by the Minister of Defence
General Jaruzelski on December 13.
1982 Solidarno is outlawed by the government.
1983 Martial law is lifted in July and most political
leaders released from prison. Lech Wasa
receives the Nobel Peace Prize.
1985-88 Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachevs perestroika
reforms initiate a period of liberalization, though
economic crisis and popular frustration continue
to deepen.
1989 Following more strikes Solidarno is legalized.
Partlyfree elections are held. Solidarno
sweeps the elections and the Communist regime
1990 Lech Wasa becomes the first popularlyelected president of post-Communist Poland.
2005 Following a long battle against illness Pope John
Paul II passes away. An estimated one million
Poles descend on Rome for his funeral.
2006 The Manufaktura shopping and leisure complex
opens to international acclaim, marking the citys
social and economic renaissance.
January - April 2016


Culture & Events

Dont you forget about Simple Minds headlining the Night of the Proms in March!

QG4, ul. Piotrkowska 203/205, tel. (+48) 42 636 00
92, www.charlie.pl. Box office open depending on
repertoire. Tickets 10-22z. N
A state-of-the-art 14 screen cinema with all the trimmings.
QB1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42
664 64 64, www.cinema-city.pl. Box office open 09:30 22:45. Tickets 14-31z.
Fully air-conditioned, and allegedly one of most hi-tech
IMAX cinemas in the world.QA1, ul. Drewnowska 58
(Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.kinoimax.
pl. Box office open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 20-31z.

15.02 MONDAY
The National Ballet of Georgia was founded in 1945 as
the Georgian State Dance Company, a Soviet-era name
that was shed in time. The group managed to popularise
traditional Georgian dance and music at such prestigious
venues as the Met, La Scala, and the Coliseum. And now for
a mind-blowing fact for all you Doctor Who fans: it was a
performance by Sukhishvili Ballet that inspired Terry Nation
to create Daleks - apparently the long-skirted female
14 d In Your Pocket

performers looked mighty robotic?QE3, The Grand

Theatre, Pl. Dbrowskiego. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets
90-210z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul.
Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

American rock band Imagine Dragons are currently on tour
promoting their second studio album, Smoke + Mirrors,
released in February of 2015 (and debuting at no. 1 on
several music charts).QF4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego
7. Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 179-299z. Available
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5,
Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
Cuban artists Pasion De Buena Vista are returning with their
signature brand of peppy Caribbean music that brings a
blast of island warmth to d. The atmosphere is like a
breezy Havana club complete with saucy dancers and Latin
rhythms - - its almost more like a vacation to Cuba than just
a concert.QE3, The Grand Theatre, Pl. Dbrowskiego,
www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00.
Tickets 139-199z. Available at www.eventim.pl and
Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

Culture & Events

Classic meets Pop in this highly-anticipated event; the
line-up for 2016 includes Zucchero, Simple Minds, Lisa
Stansfield, John Miles, Jennifer Pike, Blue Cafe, and Il
Novecento accompanied by the Academic Choir.QF4,
Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.notp.com/
poland. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 99-399z, VIP
699z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana
Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00).
18.03 FRIDAY
Be it Thrift Shop, Cant Hold Us, or Downtown, rapper
Macklemore and producer Ryan Lewis have a real good
collaboration going on. In early 2016 theyll be going on a
tour billed as An Evening With Macklemore & Ryan Lewis.
QF4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7. Concert starts at
19:30. Tickets 155-255z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl
and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

25.09 FRIDAY - 28.03 MONDAY
See 600 new additions to the Central Museum of Tiles
collection, including archival documents, factory blueprints,
book covers, folk costumes, textile-manufacturing machinery,
catalogues, and a large selection of historical attire, such as
an elaborately embroidered Baroque mitre.QG4, Central
Museum of Textiles, ul. Piotrkowska 282 (entrance
from ul. Milionowa), tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www.
muzeumwlokiennictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6z.
09.10 FRIDAY - 14.02 SUNDAY
For its 40th anniversary, the Museum of the City of d
has partnered with the Polish Museum in Rapperswil,
Switzerland to present twenty-four works of art by
outstanding Polish artists. At the exhibition items of artistic
and historical importance will be presented, including works
by outstanding Polish artists Joseph Chemoski, Olga
Boznaska and Julian Falat; as well as Lodz Jewish authors,
Samuel Hirszenberg and Henry Glicenstein.QB1, Museum
of the City of d, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90
11, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00
- 14:00, Wed 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Fri. Opening hours are subject to change so consult their
website for up to date changes. Admission 5/3z.

Whats going on?


January - April 2016


Culture & Events

22.10 THURSDAY - 01.03 TUESDAY
Part two of a 2010 exhibition of works by renowned Polish artists
from the collection of Krzystof Musia, showing new additions
this patron of the arts has amassed in the last five years. 32 early
20th-century paintings, pastels, and sketches will be on display
at the Museum of the City of d until March.QB1, Museum
of the City of d, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90
11, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00
- 14:00, Wed 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri.
Opening hours are subject to change. Tickets 5/3z.
10.11 TUESDAY - 31.01 SUNDAY
19th, 20th and 21st-century wedding outfits - elaborate
dresses and simple skirt-suits for registry office visits - will
be on display during this small bridal attire exhibition at
the Central Museum of Textiles.QG4, Central Museum of
Textiles, ul. Piotrkowska 282 (entrance from ul. Milionowa),
tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www.muzeumwlokiennictwa.
pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6z.
19.11 THURSDAY - 31.01 SUNDAY
Though mountains themselves change little over the ages,
their inhabitants, man-made structures built on the slopes, and
- lastly - photography techniques vary from decade to decade.
This photo exhibition tracks how the Karkonosze Mountains
were captured on film one hundred years ago and today.QB1,
Museum of the City of d, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42
254 90 11, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon
10:00 - 14:00, Wed 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Fri, Opening hours are subject to change. Tickets 5/3z.
19.11 THURSDAY - 31.01 SUNDAY
Polands third-biggest city is quite removed from the
mountains in the countrys southern region; and yet,
hiking, trekking, and mountaineering all started becoming
quite popular with citizens of d in the late 19th century.
This exhibition examines the relationship between Sudety
Mountains and tourists from central Poland throughout
the 20th century.QB1, Museum of the City of d, ul.
Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeumlodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Wed
14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri, Opening
hours are subject to change so consult their website for
up to date changes. Tickets 5/3z.

17.10 SATURDAY - 15.03 TUESDAY
Survive a shark attack or delve deep into an abandoned
mine in one of those trendy, poorly-named howevermany-dimensions simulators with sound, smell, water
16 d In Your Pocket


Culture & Events

spray, breeze, and temperature effects. The Adrenaline

Accelerator will be available at Manufaktura until March.
QA/B1, Manufaktura Shopping Gallery, ul. Drewnowska
58, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 89, www.manufaktura.com.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Tickets 8-20z.
08.04 FRIDAY
This indoor parade-style show comprises performances
by international military orchestras, marching bands, and
pipes and drums ensembles - totalling over 350 performers.
QF4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7. Concert starts at
19:30. Tickets 199-249z. Available at www.eventim.pl
and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

24.04 SUNDAY
Cameristi della Scala are a chamber orchestra formed
by members of Teatro alla Scala, whose repertoire
includes lots of lesser-known or mostly-forgotten
pieces from 19th century Italy.QE3, The Grand
Theatre, Pl. Dbrowskiego, www.makroconcert.com/
pl. Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 159-199z. Available
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5,
Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00).

05.02 FRIDAY
Its the twelfth edition of the athletics competition that
chooses to advertise with an athlete pole vaulting over a
cup of Pedros coffee. The events will include a 60 metre
dash, 60 metre hurdles, shot put, high jump, and indeed
pole vaulting; the first 5000 people to purchase a ticket will
also get a package of Pedros Active (no joke).QF4, Atlas
Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.pedroscup.pl. Event
starts at 17:00. Tickets 20z. Available at www.ebilet.pl
and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
Hell yeah, monster trucks! Lots of horsepower, loads
of acrobatics, burned fuel, and crushed cars, ridiculous
suspensions and very tasteful flame designs - what more
do you need? Monster Truck Entertainment (the largest
independent American producer of motor-sport events)
is bringing big-tire action to d, Krakw, and Gdask.
There will be motorcycle stunts as well!QF4, Atlas
Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.makroconcert.com/
pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time. Available
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5,
Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00).
January - April 2016



Behind the scenes at Bawena, one of ds rising stars.

You need to approach the d restaurant scene with

an openness and understanding that the gastronomy
industry is still quite young. That doesnt mean theres not
some absolute gems, but you may have to wade through
some murky waters to find them. Just to note - we do
approximate price ranges for you but they are subject to
change, naturally. Likewise the opening hours in d are
rather a mere suggestion; dont be put off if the doors are
closed during a slow day but conversely you can expect the
chefs and staff to power through regardless of the late hour
come a busy night service.
Although it may not seem it on the outside Irish Pub is a
more upmarket watering hole than most, and has excellent
food to match. Tango will give you the best steak in Lodz
guaranteed - the luxury does match the pricing.
As awkward and slightly intimidating as OFF Piotrkowska may
be for families, Spdzielnia offers sanctuary in the form of
an impressive outdoor kids area with tables nearby for parents.
The new kid on the block MOTYWY is a strong choice for
dates as it lacks that uncomfortable snobiness and instead
provides inventive menus and inviting interiors. Ato Sushi
could easily be called the best restaurant in the city and the
interactive playfulness of sushi will always be a cute first dater.
18 d In Your Pocket

Istanbul Tajmahal has recently been catapulted into
local fame simply because its food speaks for itself - for
both carnivores and vegetarians alike. Tari Bari in OFF
Piotrkowska offers quite a wide variety of foods and its
diversity stands tall and opens itself up for really great
food and categorial interpretation. Zota Kaczka needs
to be checked out, because it fails to do what every other
asian place in the city does - cause indigestion and guilt.
Esplanadas lad-ness can be summed up by its Monday
beer offers and ridiculous food portions. Surprisingly
the quality does match the quantity on most occasions.
Breadnias large tables and great food (not to mention the
frequency of gorgeous girls) makes it a great place for guys
on the town.
Try Manekin if you want a sense of what Polish people are
actually eating, and Chopska Izba if you want a sense of
what Polish people are known for eating.
Italica, naturally being mainly a pizza joint, produces
something rather inexpensive but in this case, hand on
heart great. Check out Jaffas shakshuka (raunchy) as well
for when youre in breakfast mode.

These guys have done it. Famous from their FoodTruck that
used to stand at Piotrkowska 217; theyve finally moved
into a building! Centralised and well designed it has a
best-in-town and impressive stance towards burgers. They
come up with some weird creations that appear in weekly
special form and boast a firm standard when it comes to
the classics. Cheesus Christ Superstar hits a spot I didnt
know existed as does MegaMachina if you fancy a Man vs.
Food styled challenge. The staff/owners also have a great
non-hipster approach to it all, so dont be intimidated.
But remember - MEDIUM/RARE. That is all.QC6, ul.
Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 603 87 31 37. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (10-32z).


Returning to d from his native Argentina, chef Franco
Cambareri vowed to bring a little part of home back
with him. His passion for authentic grilled Argentinian
steak and love of traditional tango music come together
brilliantly in his glamorous little steakhouse. The finest
beef is imported directly from Argentina, grilled to
perfection and served up with his signature chimichurri
sauce. The short menu really emphasises the speciality
nature of the restaurant. The interior sticks to a classic
look; deep red walls, dark furniture and a collection of
tango based artworks/vintage posters brought from
home. The cracking Argentinian and Chilean wine list is
also unique to the city.QD4, ul. Traugutta 14, tel. (+48)
726 29 77 25, www.tangosteakhouse.pl. Open 12:00
- 22:00. Closed Mon, (Children under age 2 arent
allowed). (37-144z). GSW

Set around landscaped oriental gardens Zota Kaczka
stands out as the best Chinese food in town, so its
a bit of a shame youre going to have to head out of
town to get there. Your efforts to find it are rewarded
by a top menu that far exceeds the glow-in-the-dark
goo served in more central establishments, and if ever
you needed evidence of this then snatch a look at
their guest list. Previous diners number Robie Williams
and John Malkovich, as well as a fair spread of lesser
known Polish celebs and politicians. Ring in advance
if you wish to sample the giant Peking duck for two.
And dont leave the kids at home; not only do they get
their own menu but theres also a special kids corner
and indoor playground to keep them entertained.Qul.
Rbieska 53 (Polesie), tel. (+48) 42 712 64 03, www.
zlotakaczka.lodz.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (19-58z).

January - April 2016



A typical breakfast in Poland usually consists of a

cigarette and maybe a coffee or juice. Unlike some
western countries, where the direction of ones day
seems to superstitiously depend on the ability to eat
a good breakfast, here in PL the notion of starting the
day right with a fortifying meal just hasnt caught on. In
fact ask five Polish working girls what theyve had to eat
that day come 13:00, and you can bet at least three of
them havent had more than a cup of yoghurt, claiming
theyre just not hungry in the mornings. Mm-hmm...
Hard-pressed as you may be to find a proper breakfast
in this town, fear not - they do exist and weve provided
the details of the best below. Smacznego, champ.
A great place to start and spend a lazy Sunday, with
omelettes, fried eggs, muesli and other options, all
accompanied by their fresh-baked bread of course.
QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 86, tel. (+48) 507 08 40 07.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Breakfast
served 09:00 - 13:00. (6-18z). T6GSW
Forget Disney World, Le Loft is easily the happiest place
on earth. From the moment we set foot inside until we
finished our garlicky salad, it was pure bliss (did they
put Xanax in our freshly-squeezed grapefruit juice?).
The staff is Polands least surly and most helpful, and
the menu covers everything you could want in a cafe:
breakfast sandwiches, pastas, obscure Czech beers,
even hearty turkey sandwiches if youre so inclined. The
free wi-fi and decor supplied by young local artists in
the dining room means theres absolutely no reason
to go home.QG4, ul. Tymienieckiego 20, tel. (+48)
42 661 61 75, www.leloft.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Breakfast served Mon-Fri 08:00 11:30. TUGSW
Manufakturas hippest bistro serves breakfast of all
shapes and sizes all day long. Go big with the full french
toast, scrambled eggs combo or stay small with their
FIT breakfast of granola, fruit, nuts and yogurt. They
also have takeaway sandwiches and a huge selection
of drinks.QB1, Manufaktura Rynek, tel. (+48) 42 634
24 72. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00
- 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (12-25z).
20 d In Your Pocket

Opening the door to this unassuming little restaurant on
a Friday afternoon we were astounded to find it packed!
Initial suspicion regarding the two elderly and tough
looking waiters in black shirts and red bowties were soon
put to rest as they turned out to be that rare breed - old
school gents and masters of their profession. Orders were
taken quickly and the food arrived after a short wait. Not
only was the service brilliant but the food was also some
of the best Chinese we have had in a long time; everything
was fragrant, well presented and packed with flavour.
QD5, ul. Sienkiewicza 39, tel. (+48) 690 51 69 00, www.
zlotyimbir.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (14-36z). TUVGSW

The first restaurant to nab a spot in the renovated Ksiy
Myn complex, Cesky Film is a bright, open Czech restaurant
that takes its name from the film canisters and giant movie
stills that make up the decor. Its an appealing - if random
- design, but our eyes were immediately drawn to the five
taps of various Cerna Hora beers. Paired with the filling Czech
goulash and hearty dumplings youll start to consider Polish
cuisine to be light fare.QG4, ul. Tymienieckiego 25a, lok
3, tel. (+48) 881 40 38 88, www.ceskyfilm.pl. Open 12:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-55z). UEGSW
Once an upscale establishment with the prices to match,
Esplanada regenerated as a Czech/Bavarian eatery with a beer
hall menu and kid-friendly features like a playground. The draw
is huge portions of delicous schnitzel, shashlik and pork knuckle
(one of many Polish accents) complemented by stein after stein
of perfect Pilsner. Youre guaranteed to feel like youve gone
back in time, not just because of the traditional costumes on
the wait staff, as the atmosphere is generally yesteryear while
the presentation of most of the hearty dishes is is all cork board
and enamel pots. Esplanada is a splendidly essential part of the
d culinary landscape.QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 100, tel. (+48)
42 630 59 89, www.esplanada.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (16-49z). TEGSW

Servantka stands out as the first restaurant in all of Poland
where our waitress followed up shortly after delivering our
delicious Russian dumplings to ask how everything was. A
small but revolutionary act we say. Servantka specializes in
Russian and Ukrainian dishes, and the hearty solanka rosyjska
soup can best be described as meatastic while the blini with
caviar is a culinary trip to Red Square. The restaurants interior
is impressively cozy, with heaps of flickering candles and a
large fireplace.QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 55, tel. (+48) 42 630
75 45, www.servantka.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (18-65z). GSW

Relive the golden years of d inside this inter-war time
machine. Diners are ushered to their table by cloth capped
skivvies, and get the choice of various saloons. On the
right side find a wood heavy room festooned with antique
trappings, on the left a swish chamber with a penny
farthing suspended from the wall, and young Gordon
Ramseys waving wildly in the open kitchen. The menu
is modern European and firmly established in epicurean
folklore.QD7, ul. Wigury 4/6, tel. (+48) 42 636 86 86,
www.revelo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (26-98z). TXSW

The renovations happening around Ksiy Myn are
resulting in an influx of new businesses, and Restauracja
Gronowalski is one of the most eye-catching of the
newcomers. The two-story brick building features event
space, a spacious bar (complete with smoking room) and
a large image made entirely of thousands of Swarovski
crystals. All of which means nothing if the food is bad,
which is happily not the case. Try the enticing pikeperch
on young cabbage rolls stuffed with buckwheat, spinach
and gorgonzola or the sirloin steak with sweet potatoes,
Pak Choi, sun-dried tomatoes and a mushroom-pepper
sauce. Be sure to look up from your food, though, as
Gronowalski received The Best Interior 2012 courtesy of
Fundacja Piotrkowska for their high-style design.QG4,
ul. Tymienieckiego 22/24, tel. (+48) 42 673 02 90, www.
buddhapub.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-80z). UXSW

Designed to look like a seaside taverna, this elegant Greek
restaurant just opened in a new location and they havent
skipped a beat. Everything is as authentic as it can get
with even a Greek language menu and overly friendly and
hospitable staff. The menu is a good selection of grilled
meats, salads and Greek staples (even gluten free options!)
though the star of the show is the fresh fish represented by
lobster, octopus and calamari. Reminiscent of many of the
tavernas youll find lined up next to each other in the centre
of Greek holiday villages, with a cafe vibe that includes
ample reading material for extended midday lounging,
this is the perfect escape from the real d world outside.
QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 122, tel. (+48) 42 633 21 21, www.
restauracjakamari.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 23:00. (21-120z). TGSW

Full contents online:


the best steaks

of the highest quality argentinian beef

grilled in a traditional way
by a native argentinean

ul. traugutta 14

9 0 - 1 0 7

reservations: (+48) 726 29 77 25

e-mail: steki.wino@tangosteakhouse.pl

w w w. ta n g o s t e a k h o u s e . p l

January - April 2016


art and film schools. Great place for a Sunday morning
breakfast when the staff are as bubbly and friendly as in the
evenings!QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 86, tel. (+48) 507 08 40
07. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (13-30z).

Smoking Lounge
Live music every Thursdays,
Fridays and Saturdays
Kitchen open daily until 24.00,
at weekends until 01.00

We warmly invite you!

ul. Piotrkowska 77, d
Tel. +48 42 632 48 76, +48 662 153 200
pub@irishpub.pl, www.irishpub.pl

ds favorite kebab spot has expanded to a freshly
renovated full-blown restaurant with a menu of Indian
and Turkish dishes that proves their talent isnt one-note.
The tandoori dishes are a standout, especially if you enjoy
a mix of meat and vegetable variations like methi paneer
and the vegetable cheese rolls. You can also get handheld fare like shoarmas and of course kebabs. Expect to
encounter the owner, who likes to help guests choose
the ideal Indian dish. And yes, you can still get yourself
a signature kebab if youre hankering for the old days.
QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 88, tel. (+48) 42 632 00 96. Open
10:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. (20-39z).

Breadnia wouldnt look out of place in any major European
city with its mix of italian pizzas and pastas and transconinental bistro fare. Try the mixed meat or cheese platters
served up with bread from the on-site bakery or something
from the bagel selection; the Karczek (roast neck meat)
bagel with honey dressing and caramelised red onions
is amazing! About 60 wines from around the globe are
available by the bottle and the cool interior doubles up as
a gallery space showing work by established young artists,
as well as offering a launch pad for students from the local
22 d In Your Pocket

A canny plan from the same masterminds that brought a
bit of classy post-modernism to Manufaktura, with their
bistros Bawena and Szpulka. Bystro is situated in the
basement level of the Zenit office complex so this time
around their guaranteed customer comes from office
bods rather than shoppers. The concept is pretty clever;
cool design with a slight canteen feel, home style cooking
with a modern edge, a weekly planned menu offering a
different set lunch (Monday-Friday), open for breakfasts,
drinks, cakes all with astonishingly low prices. Although the
office complex connection is played down, it comes as no
surprise to learn that they close at 5pm and arent open on
the weekends.QD7, ul. Sienkiewicza 82/84, tel. (+48)
726 04 70 00. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (1520z). T6GSW
One of the best dining rooms in the city and perfect when
trying to clinch that big deal. A country club atmosphere is
complimented by salmon walls and wood panelling while
bow-tied waiters, soft music and important looking cutlery
arrangements generate an upper-crust atmosphere. Head
chef Marek Skrtowski is the mastermind behind the menu,
and diners can choose from a stunning variety of cracking
dishes. Highly recommended.QF1, ul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz
(Stacja Nowa Gdynia Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 714 21 51,
www.dzika-kaczka.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:30. (29-69z).
Located in the brand new d Hilton this luxurious
and stylish restaurant presents an exquisite and original
menu. The delectable dishes on offer are a selection of
international specialities with a Polish twist like duck
breast sous vide with duck leg confit, butternut squash
puree, pear carpaccio and boudin noir sauce. Add to
this a stunning and informative 100-strong wine list,
including the magnificently titled Wine Treasures of the
Four Colors Restaurant.QA7, ul. kowa 29 (DoubleTree
by Hilton d Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 36, www.
doubletreelodz.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:30 - 22:30;
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 22:00. (26-108z). TU
Irish Pubs have a bad image. The promise of the mid-life
crisis parked up at the bar; and the overuse of Jameson,
green and shamrocks. But the food at Irish Pub d
forces you to forget it all, as its easily some of the best
in the city. Theres an elegant, thought-about stance
towards every one of the dishes - Steak (actually cooked
to the temperature you want), accompanied by a glossy


cauliflower puree, spicy bourbon barbecue sauce, charred

onions and jalapeos, is a firm favourite. The presentation
is modern and respectable yet not-snobby. Whether you sit
in the garden, or the basement, the attentive staff will make
sure you get hold of the good stuff. Guinness available on
tap (duh).QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 77, tel. (+48) 662 15 32
00, www.irishpub.pl. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Thu 15:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:30. (19-70z).

The flagship restaurant of the Grand is something of an
eyebrow raiser. Filling an imperious looking hall this place
has chandeliers hanging from skylights, and a ballroom
atmosphere straight from the age of cavalry charges and
duels at dawn. The style is fantastic, and the menu equally
so with a list that mixes modern presentation with classic
local and global tastes. This indulgence is no-way as
expensive as it should be, and the steak well worth a look.
For too long considered a middling hotel restaurant, the
signs are that the new look Malinowa is back and barking
business.QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 72 (Grand Hotel), tel.
(+48) 42 633 99 20, www.grandlodz.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. (19-69z). 6UGSW

This swanky little joint is starting to make a name for itself.
Surrounded by some of the citiys most popular/awarded
restaurants, the fact that this newcomer stands out is truly
something. With a tip of the hat to modern European cuisine,
its really a jack of all trades. The continuously refreshed lunch
menus are grand and their accessible bistro approach to fine
dining means Ill be visiting again. Its one of those places that
you find hard to describe, as with consistently well executed
dishes you just have to wander through the door and try as
much as you can. Kudos for being different and offering the
couples of d a really special place (yes, its a GREAT date
place).QD4, ul. Traugutta 14, tel. (+48) 42 207 40 69. Open
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (24-55z). 6GW
A brilliantly bonkers interior with a number of quirky
details. Paleta Bieli is a caf/club which is difficult to define;
bar, cafe, eatery (Polish/Mediterranean based), gallery,
music venue with a mixed clientele at different times of
day. Whatever it is, it achieves cool effortlessly. The kitchen
closes at 10pm and the whole place takes on more of a
clubby atmosphere with weekend DJs and a Wednesday
night live radio music broadcasts. If you need to visit the
loo, make sure you use the one behind the bar area and
look up for an unexpected surprise!QC5, ul. Piotrkowska
89, tel. (+48) 603 85 14 12, www.paletabieli.pl. Open
13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (18-40z). EGSW
January - April 2016


Since one of the main things youre likely to be doing
while in town is eating, here are a few words youre
likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!
(Enjoy your meal!)
niadania breakfast
zupa soup
przystawki appetisers
dania gwne
main dishes
side dishes
ziemniaki potatoes
kapusta cabbage
ser cheese
chleb bread
warzywa vegetables
owoce fruit
miso meat
kurczak chicken
wieprzowina pork
woowina beef
ryba fish
deser dessert
ciasto cake
ice cream
napoje drinks
kawa coffee
piwo beer
Its one of those places, you know - coffee, juices, lunches
worth an Instagram, dinners worth 25z, white/brick walls
with wooden tables; it feels very Ctrl+C, Ctrl+V. The size of
the area is impressive with advertisement attention put
on the possibility for conferences and events - and with
the food at Przerwa it would certainly be well catered for.
The staff are switched on and the bakers deserve a round
of applause - sipping a coffee here now, would I come
back? I suppose yes, but in a bigger group - I want to try
more, but sitting alone in such a large space is somewhat
intimidating. Send help.QC7, ul. Wlczaska 128/134,
tel. (+48) 42 212 33 30, www.przerwa-lodz.com. Open
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (5-50z). 6UVG
Modern molecular cooking? In d? It took us by surprise
too, especially since this alchemic cuisine is only just
showing up in the capital. But chef Jarosaw Biekowski
is employing molecular gastronomy at Nobo Hotels
restaurant with pleasing results, though us naming dishes
wont do you any good since the menu changes regularly
(and creatively). The setting is as exacting as the dishes,
with red chandeliers and crisp white tablecloths giving off
a mod vibe.QF2, ul. Liciasta 86 / Al. Wkniarzy (NoBo
Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 234 14 61, www.kolory-wina.pl.
Open 06:30 - 22:00. (25-61z). T6UVGSW
24 d In Your Pocket

Situated in the basement level of the trendy Hotel Tobaco,
the restaurant is a stunning and fascinating blend of the
buildings past history as a tobacco factory mixed with
modern architectural design. The walls are decorated with
treasures discovered during the restoration of the buildingmetal plaques, tobacco advertising, plans and photographs
from the factorys 1920s-40s heyday. The menu is a wellconsidered fusion of flavours crafted from the cuisine of
the four prevalent nationalities for whom d was home:
Polish, German, Russian and Jewish. Dishes are lavish and
include beef cheeks with potato dumplings, beetroot, leek
and a demi glace sauce and for dessert how about coconut
foam on mango mousse. Exquisite dining in a unique
atmosphere.QF4, ul. Kopernika 64, tel. (+48) 42 207
07 07, www.hoteltobaco.pl. Open 07:00 - 10:00, 13:00
- 22:00. Note that the bar stays open daily until 24:00.
(32-62z). UGW
This lovely little restaurant and bar is tucked into one
of the many courtyards off Piotrkowska. Their light and
hearty menu is best suited for lunchtime snacking and late
evening sipping by the bar. Order up a savoury quiche (ask
about the daily special) or try out their signature savoury
pastry pirogues. They also have a delightful tea and juice
menu as well as plenty of alcoholic options once the
evening starts to creep in. Head inside and nestle up to the
bar in the colder months and look out for frequent piano
concerts, its quite the spectacle.QC5, ul. Piotrkowska
101, tel. (+48) 607 07 50 02. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (15-45z). T6UE
Hike down never-ending ul. Piotrkowska until you get to
number 217, home to Szwalnia Smakw (The Sewing Room
of Tastes) - note the old sewing machine built into one of
the large communal tables. The recently expanded interior
holds true to the popular d formula of whitewashed
brickwork, semi-industrial lighting and wall decor made up
of art shows and info on local creative initiatives. Although
they seem to be particularly proud of their excellent range
of cakes and sweet things, their lunches and hot/cold
dishes are a must - fundamentally Polish with elements
pilfered from other world cuisines, this is exactly the type
of food that has Europe excited about new Polish cooking.
Qul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 603 51 05 20, www.
szwalniasmakow.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. (19-55z). 6GSW
The glamorous Borowiecki hotel extends the style to its
restaurant and sizeable bar. Pair an end-of-the-day cocktail
with menu options that change with the season and
include fusion dishes as well as more traditional options;
pork tenderloin with porcini mushroom and parmesan
kaszotto, beets and sweet shallots or beef carpaccio
marinated in capers and pepper, served with arugula and

balsamic cream. The best part? The prices dont reflect the
elegant surroundings, so you can definitely afford to order
the chocolate fondant with cherry and mascarpone ice
cream.QF3, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 288 01 00,
www.hotelborowiecki.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (23-47z).

Owner Angelo Lombardi believes in authentic, straight
forward Italian cooking. When thats done just right why
mess with it? The proof of its success is the hard-core fan
base of this smart little restaurant and the fact that its
been going strong since 2006. The regular menu is short
and sweet and includes pasta dishes like pappardelle with
porcini mushrooms, saffron and speck and the house
favourite of beef fillet with green peppercorns. Monday Wednesday sees an ever-changing range of meat-based
dishes and Thursday - Saturday its the turn of fresh seafood.
A nice range of Italian wines start at a very decent 45z a
bottle. In true Italian style Mr Lombardi regularly patrols the
floor, chats with customers and helps out in the kitchen.
A jolly family atmosphere is heartily encouraged.QC4, ul.
6-go Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 632 46 39. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (18-79z).
In an even more random yet centralised location than its
sister Pomodoro, the fat Italian chef figure of yesteryear
standing outside gives Italica hope. Not kidding. Italica is
a well-established eatery, its focus is primarily pizza and
for the love of all thats holy try the one with mascarpone,
prosciutto or their delectable onion jam. This is your chance
to have really good pizza, or pasta, or secondo piatto - I
highly recommend delivery though as it is your right to
get down and dirty in private with at least 3 impressive
pizzas.QB5, Al. Kociuszki 33/35, tel. (+48) 42 670 62
04, www.pizzeriaitalica.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (11-32z). TUVS
A lovely little Italian restaurant tucked away in a well-lookedafter and peaceful courtyard. The young and enthusiastic
Polish owners/chefs, Maciek and Konrad, developed their
passion for Italian cooking during their travels around the
land of La Dolce Vita. The classic menu, featuring authentic
pizza and pasta dishes, is kept to a manageable length with
most of the products used in the kitchen coming directly
from Italy. Otwarte Drzwi also features a proper woodburning pizza oven, a relaxing outdoor area, fine Italian
wines and regional Polish beers. The whole experience
is topped off by the extremely nice and unpretentious
owners and staff.QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48)
502 85 57 79, www.otwarte-drzwi.com. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. (27-35z).

January - April 2016


Pasta wouldnt necessarily be our first choice to take
to a picnic but its certainly what this place specialises
in; the menu includes over 30 variations of handmade
pasta-based dishes. The designers have made a great
job of making the long and narrow space relaxing,
uncluttered and a place to just lounge around in. As
a venue it also manages to juggle being a restaurant
and having a bit of a clubby atmosphere going on. No
one will frown with disapproval if you just pop in for a
beer and a bit of chill out time. DJs throw around some
mellow grooves during the weekend when the kitchen
stays open until midnight.QC4, ul. Traugutta 3, tel.
(+48) 662 33 59 34, www.piknikrestauracja.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (8-55z). TG
Pizza. Just pizza. This place and its sister Italica do it right. In
an unlikely location Pomodoro offers itself up as a gateway
for the round, cheesy, decadent, slightly charred bottomed,
wood-fired good stuff. Yes theres also a menu with Italian
fare which is respectable in its own right - but in a town
congested with cheap, sub-standard, wannabe discs of
dough, its a pleasant surprise to come across a place like
Pomodoro pushing real pies. But remember, toppingswise, less is more.QC2, ul. Rewolucji 1905 r. 4, tel. (+48)
42 233 54 54, www.pomodoropizza.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed
Mon. (16-35z). T6VGSW
A firm editorial favourite. Cooked in a traditional wood
fired oven the pizzas in this white-washed trattoria are
cheap, fast and a far better alternative to the big brand
pizza delivery empires youll find on Piotrkowska. We had
the Mafioso - salami, garlic, peppers and chillis - and for
once we were not disappointed by a chef skimping on
the spices. The topping sauce arrives in a separate jug,
allowing you to choose whether or not you wish to drown
your pizza in red goo. Also at ul. Maratoska 67/69 (F-4).
QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 67, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 83, www.
pizzeriapresto.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. (23-30z). TUVGSW
Not a name that rolls off the tongue, but in Polish its a
pretty good play on words, so ask somebody to explain it
to you! The Italian menu is kept well under control and runs
to a few antipasti platters, a selection of pizza and pasta
options and a few mains. Pizzas are available as slices, so no
need to order something the size of a satellite dish if youre
just feeling a little peckish. The multinational team insist on
ecological and fair trade products, as well as supporting
local growers and suppliers. Our coffee expert says the
espresso was akin to a lions roar!QC3, ul. Piotrkowska
16, tel. (+48) 887 69 69 22. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (16-36z). TGSW
26 d In Your Pocket

Sushi in Poland is popular and the proportion of restaurants
opting for this cuisine makes you wonder about how they
can all survive. The typically minimalist design plays host to
well-prepared Nigiri, Sashimi, Futomaki and the like. Prices
are well positioned to compete, but the biggest thing in
its favour is the choice of nicely-presented hot dishes such
as crispy duck. These and the very tasty ramen with beef
soup made our visit all the more worthwhile and there are
options enough in the menu to keep you coming back.
QC4, ul. 6-go Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 207 99 99,
www.atosushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-60z). TVGSW
A new owner and chef have taken the reliably good House
of Sushi to a new level of popularity; we followed a stream
of customers to their courtyard space in search of the
salmon teriyaki on the new thoughtfully trimmed down
menu. The easy design involving pale blond woods, paper
lanterns and a spot of Japanese calligraphy remains the
same.QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 42 674 00 40,
www.houseofsushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. (25-41z). TUVGSW
ds answer to good quality affordable sushi. Im surprised
those words go together in this city too. With creative
incarnations along with the classics, theres some seriously
solid sushi items on their menu. The Spicy Tuna and Coco
Set are both notable. The rice is cooked with a good
balance of vinegar and the nori sheets dont taste cheap.
The have recently expanded their menu to also include hot
dishes. Its a humble approach to a very glorified luxury in
d - so yes, its more than worth the walk to the South
end of the main drag.QG4, ul. Piotrkowska 209, tel.
(+48) 606 46 76 44, www.sendaisushi.pl. Open 12:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (20-50z).
A chain of sushi bars which started out with the idea of
online ordering and rapid home/office delivery just keeps
on growing. Of the four sites in d, the Piotrkowska
branch is obviously the handiest for visitors to the city. As
well as a comprehensive sushi and soup menu, theyre big
on promotions and open buffet nights (ominously called
Kamikadze Missions). Those with the appetite of a ravenous
walrus cant go wrong with the innovative Kushi Maki XL - their
most popular rolls but double the size. On the drinks front, try
the unique Iki beer - a top fermented ale with organic green
tea leaves added at the start of the brewing process or some
choice Japanese wines. Also find them at ul. Nastrojowa 41 a
(F-1), ul. lska 54 (H-5) and ul. Kusociskiego 65 (F-4).QC5,
ul. Piotrkowska 113/115, tel. (+48) 42 632 81 91, www.
sushikushi.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (10-50z). VGSW

Celebrate ds Jewish heritage inside an atmospheric
venue scattered with prayer shawls, menorahs and general
bric-a-brac, and dont forego a visit in the evening, when
the live music recitals involve violinists sitting on a chair
suspended half way up a wall. A team of flighty waitresses
take the orders, and the chef does the rest coming up
trumps with a range of traditional Jewish dishes, including
rather good goose. The addition of a banqueting hall
and VIP rooms now mean that you can dine in private or
alternatively at a single table seating 100 people.QC4, ul.
6 Sierpnia 2/4, tel. (+48) 42 630 36 35, www.anatewka.
pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (27-68z). T6UEXSW


d should be bragging to the whole of Poland about this
visionary Mexican/American restaurant and lounge bar.
The interior uses traditional, earthy Mexican colours but
blends them with contemporary neon lighting and some
fantastic murals by local painters Natalia Anna Kalisz and Ewa
ochowska. At the helm is American owner/chef Jeff Unger,
a man whose expert knowledge of modern and traditional
Mexican/American cuisine means that we find authentic
tacos, quesadillas and enchiladas sharing the menu with
startling dishes like grilled adobo pork tenderloin with herb
roasted purple potatoes, baby spinach and mushroom hash
& orange-chille syrup. Dont you dare leave until youve
dabbled in the house margaritas, based around their own
infused tequilas.QC4, ul. Moniuszki 1a, tel. (+48) 501 67
17 00. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (22-78z). GSW

Jaffa is a nice and simple affair serving up a range of Israeli
vegetarian dishes and interesting drinks. Theyre big on
hummus and mezze dishes, but pop by early for a classic
Israeli/Tunisian shakshuka breakfast (eggs in a tomato, pepper
and onion sauce) or later in the day go for the tadin (aromatic
goulash served in a special pot). Keeping it all contemporary
and slick the dcor is kept to a minimum, with little beyond
a small bookcase featuring a selection of cult books and
comics and some Hebrew lettering prints. Also worth a shot
is their Mazel Tov - a vodka and date syrup cocktail.QC4, ul.
Piotrkowska 67, tel. (+48) 792 36 60 13. Open 10:30 - 22:00.
Closed Wed. (10-40z). T6GBSW
Whereas its sister restaurant just up the road caters to a
more downmarket clientele and features a more fast food
style atmosphere, Kebab Houses flagship steakhouse is
almost posh in comparison. Even better, where scores of
Polish kebab restaurants nationwide leave one reaching

Open every day from 12 till the last guest

Live music every day
Step into our cosy garden...
ul. 6 Sierpnia 2/4, tel. (48) 42 630 36 35
also at ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura)
tel. (48) 42 633 22 77, www.anatewka.pl

Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries its normal
to say thanks when a waiter collects the money,
youll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the
word dzikuje, or even thank you in English, is an
indication that you wont be wanting any change back.
This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and
expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does
their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed
for asking for your money back, or conveniently
disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be
careful only to say thank you if you are happy for
the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we
advise you to only use the word prosz (please) when
handing back the bill and the payment.
Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid
in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more
than 10% of the meals total (though being a foreigner
may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).
As such, we encourage you to reward good service
when you feel its deserved. Finally, it is virtually
unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because
waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you
wont get the chance. Therefore its essential to have
some change or small bills handy in order to leave your
server a tip. If you dont have any, ask for change.
January - April 2016


for the Imodium, the dishes here go down a treat, and,
more importantly, stay down. And now with added kids
corner!QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 91, tel. (+48) 42 632 20 65,
www.kebablodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. (16-40z). TUG

The peculiar interior of animal skins, bear traps, and clay walls
plays host to an authentic and seriously good Polish meal.
The staff are some of the most attentive and professional
that youd find in the city and seemingly proud of the food
they lay on the table - as well they should be. Get the mixed
plate of pierogis, the smoked cheese wrapped in bacon,
the sausages, some potato pancakes with salmon - treat it
almost like Polish tapas. The staff will help you choose, and I
guarantee youll have an authentic taste of good Polish food.
Bring pregnancy pants though.QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 65,
tel. (+48) 42 630 80 87. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-60z). GSW
A fairytale restaurant that could have been built with Hansel
and Gretel in mind. Here its all log-cutters furniture, flower
pots and rural ceramics, with walls painted with the window
views youd find in a country cottage. Best of all, theres a
bar that looks like a teapot. The menu features some serious
bloodlust, with lots of farm animals carved and cooked in
various Polski and Italiano ways. Light eaters arent overlooked
mind, and wimpy diners will find lighter dishes like fish, soups
and pierogi all on the menu.QF3, Al. Wkniarzy 151, tel.
(+48) 665 18 90 50, www.cudmiod.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00,
Sun 08:00 - 22:00. (16-40z). TXSW
Lots of primitive wooden benches, animal skins on the walls,
miscellaneous rustic crudities and a tiled floor create the
right atmosphere for perhaps the best national restaurant in
the city. The service is friendly and the food, including dinky
bowls of smalec, large hunks of bread, venison, wild boar and
a selection of traditional 17th-century puddings, is top notch.
In fact, its such a shock to the senses that it comes as quite a
surprise when you leave to realise youre actually in Poland at
all. Whereas so many folklore-themed hunters restaurants fail
to deliver beyond the decoration, Karczma u Chochoa have
bothered to get the whole thing right.QG4, ul. Piotrkowska
200, tel. (+48) 42 637 09 19, www.uchochola.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (9-62z). GSW
Not content with being a snazzy, modern and unstuffy
restaurant (check the new street art mural!) with an
extraordinarily innovative menu, Lokal is also an important
landmark on the cultural map of d. The name was
chosen to reflect their support for local produce, local art
and local music - with the arts programme being as cutting
edge as the cuisine. For something different in the light
28 d In Your Pocket

bite department you should try some of the plates (Polish

tapas), just mix and match any number of items from the
list. Those who know how to think ahead should go for
one of the set lunches served Mon to Fri or stop by for one
of their weekend dinners.QC5, Al. Leona Schillera, tel.
(+48) 666 03 40 06, www.lokal-lodz.com. Open 12:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (20-62z). T6EGSW
Enter amongst the rather curious honey and beekeeping
equipment shop into this American diner-esque restaurant
with ceiling fans and chequerboard flooring to boot.
The diner atmosphere was reinforced even more by the
large group of American students chattering away in the
corner. The concept is simple; offer up a range of tasty, well
presented Polish lunch dishes, burgers, pastas and beers
at unbelievably low prices close to University-land and
watch the students flood in! All in all, excellent quality for
the price but possibly best avoided if you are over 22 and
dont wear converse sneakers and oversized knitted hats.
QG3, ul. Narutowicza 59, tel. (+48) 603 71 47 98, www.
piwnicasmakow.strefa.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. (15-20z). GSW
If touring the Textile Museum inexplicably works up an
appetite you dont have to travel more than a few metres
before landing at the museums restaurant. We recommend
dining al fresco as you peruse the menu (unfortunately
only written in Polish) which touches on Russian, Jewish,
German and Polish cuisine. Our waiter patiently rattled off
lunch options though, which landed us an undercooked
hunk of chicken and formerly frozen fries for the bargainbasement price of 12zl. They also use their walls as an
extension of the museum and host rotating exhibitions of
mostly paintings you can even take home with you (for the
right price).QG4, ul. Piotrkowska 282, tel. (+48) 605 35
39 19. Open 10:00 - 20:00. (12-35z). 6UGSW
Youd never know it from the elegant pre-war interiors, but
this is a brand new restaurant offering classic golden age
d cuisine. We had no idea that such a thing existed,
but pouring over their extensive menu we were quite
surprised to encounter dishes and descriptions that are
tough even for the average Pole to decipher. Luckily the
professional wait staff will help you navigate the appetiser
soup, salad, herring, mains, sides and salads menus (drinks
you should be able to manage). We highly recommend the
wild mushroom in cream, goose and duck bullion and the
rabbit in thyme sauce was delicate and was perfect with a
dry red wine.QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 881 66
63 85, www.slepymaks.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu 12:00
- 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (32-85z). TGSW
The classic Polish comfort food of pierogis is treated like a
king at Teremok, where you can sample Russian and Kazakh
versions (as well as the classic kind) for just the change in

your pocket. Stacks of pancakes, both sweet and savoury,
add to the budget options. Theyve recently moved down
the street but the address is the only thing thats changed.
Also at Piotrkowska 36 (C-3).QD3, ul. Piramowicza 11/13,
tel. (+48) 42 207 10 71, www.teremok.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (9-20z). GS

Maana is a striking place, with an eye-grabbing red accented
interior and an open kitchen. The menu is limited which
means its quality over quantity, right? Wrong. The seating is
awkwardly spaced to the point where you question what to
do with yourself. Branded as a fast food joint, the food is not
fast. When you do finally get your food, youd of hoped that
maybe a little more tlc was put into your dish. No matter what
meat you order, it will be outdone by the bland shell, tasteless
overused cheese, and the even more overused pungent
coriander. The beef was meant to be cooked low and slow
but has that texture as if its been cooked fast and long - think
corned beef. There are also vegetarian options available.
We really want to like this place, but the food, the staff and
the overall unoriginality make it painfully hard.QC5, ul.
Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 726 62 62 62. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (16-21z). TVGSW

Find this neat vegan bistro in the increasingly vibrant
courtyard at Piotrkowska 217 - as well as a few cafes,
restaurants etc. the courtyard is also home to the sporadic
Street Food Festival. The weekly changing menu at presents
vegan dishes from around the world, a non-corporate soft
drinks selection, fresh original recipe juices/cocktails and
cakes. Its also the only place in town to feature seitan (an
Asian wheat based meat substitute) on the menu. Formerly
a print house, the interior is now filled with a variety of tables
and chairs lovingly restored by the owners. A friendly and
casual atmosphere where four-legged friends are also most
welcome!QG4, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 530 03 33
27. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 20:00. Closed Mon. (18-25z). 6USW
Strictly speaking we cant call this a purely vegetarian
restaurant but the emphasis is on regularly changing natural,
healthy dishes using fresh seasonal produce and interesting
ingredients with no additives. They also regularly offer seafood
specials when available. The closest youll get to meat is steak
and chips - a bean steak, that is, served with chunky celeriac
fries. Soups, salads and freshly squeezed juices fill up the
remainder of the blackboard menu, and the hip, bright interior
is rather simple, uncluttered and attractive. There will be new
ownership soon so there may be some slight changes to the
menu and decor in the near future.QC/D6, ul. Roosevelta
7, tel. (+48) 885 22 28 85. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 18:00. Closed Sun. (15-40z). 6NGBSW

The citys main street, ul. Piotrkowska, has places
all along it where you can pick up something quick
to eat with no shortage of pizza and kebab outlets.
For the best choice of fast food in one place though
either head to the food court at Galeria Lodz at
one end of Piotrkowska or the bigger version at
Manufaktura which along with the biggest names in
international fast food (MacDonalds, KFC and Pizza
Hut), youll find a good choice of alternatives of quick
sit down meals.
You may hear some locals touting this place as
the best pizza in Poland. An optimistic claim,
maybe, though this is certainly one of the premier
pizzerias in d. Definitely a veteran on the local
pizza scene, In Centro pull the crowds whatever
the hour, whatever the season. Always reliable and
comfort food at its best.QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 153,
tel. (+48) 42 636 99 92, www.incentro.com.pl.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (19-30z).
Put the drugs away, you wont need any after
stepping inside Manekin. Yes, there are a few oddly
lifelike mannequins here, but the real brain-zapper is
the interior, styled to mimic a pre-war tram. Filled with
overhanging cables, pictures of passing streetscapes
and rich wood panelling this place looks ace, and
looks far better in reality than we could ever do
justice. Yet the action doesnt stop with the gimmick,
it only gets started. If there are finer pancakes in d
we could do with knowing, though frankly wed be
hard pressed to believe you. Theres seventy plus
to choose from, and these run from chicken curry
pancakes, to ones filled with fruit, ice cream and other
stuff we thrive on. Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant.QC4, ul.
6 Sierpnia 1, tel. (+48) 42 671 07 84, www.manekin.
pl. Open 10:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:30. (717z). GS
The slightly franchise feel of the interior may not be to
everyones taste but Pozytyvka is certainly popular with
a whole range of people. Students, business types and
pensioners in their Sunday best all crowd in, attracted
by the huge variety of pierogi and Polish crepes
(naleniki) on offer. In addition to all the traditional
varieties, they also go out out on a limb with some
pretty interesting options like pancakes filled with
shoarma and kebab meat.QG3, ul. Piotrkowska 72,
tel. (+48) 42 630 28 52. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Fri 08:30
- 00:30, Sat 11:00 - 00:30, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (7-26z).
January - April 2016



Its just not breakfast without a great cup of coffee.


Touting the most unique design in town this place
has a nutty cottage design that features teddy bears
and prams, antiques and oddities, a piano guests can
play on and most recently features a mural by Ryszard
Paprocki (hes a big deal). To call it original would be an
understatement and its no wonder that its a favorite
film location for ds budding film school auteurs.
This cycle friendly complex is home to book signings
and readings, concerts and exhibitions, theres never a
shortage of events to plug any conversation gaps. To top
it all off youll find an exhaustive selection of teas and
coffee - both the expected and the exotic. An added
bonus: they now serve wine (try it hot) and liquor!QD5,
ul. Piotrkowska 112 (entrance from Al. Schillera), tel.
(+48) 533 21 80 03, www.chatkaech.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. T6IEGSW
The little alleyway leading into the courtyard may not be
the most attractive in d, but Verte certainly is one of the
quaintest cafes in town. Think of old local cafes in Vienna,
Berlin or, if your imagination can take you there, a coffee
house in pre-war Poland. Verte neatly avoids the repro
look of many venues which try to make links to the past. A
true Aladdins cave of old and beautifully crafted furniture,
antique decor and adding a touch of decadence, a selection
of framed Witacy photographs from the 1920s-30s. The
smaller room is also used for a programme of seriously arty
photography exhibitions.QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 113/115,
tel. (+48) 42 639 91 29. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 24:00. UGBSW
30 d In Your Pocket

Sharing a premises with the Kawiks meat shop, the little bakery
area is squeezed in by the door and is easy to miss, especially
when it gets obliterated by the queues to the adjoining meat
counters. It would be a shame to miss out though, as Chlebak
sells some splendid natural breads, including traditional
rye, sour dough and linseed. Their cakes are also proving
very popular and its been a long time since we spotted a
lemon meringue pie anywhere in Poland. Fresh hot and cold
sandwiches using seasonal fillings are also available. The only
improvement they could make would be to find a better
space.QB2, ul. Zachodnia 67, tel. (+48) 785 99 89 65. Open
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. GS
This centrally located cafe is spacious and sophisticated
with a true warmth that makes you want to consume the
morning paper along with your latte. If the buck of stars
was to finally gallop into d, Grand could feasibly give
them a run for their pumpkin-spiced money. With over 40
coffee beverages, coffee cocktails and shakes to choose
from, deciding on your drink will make you think. Luckily
they have a hand drawn pictogram that illustrates the size
and composition of all their curious concoctions (banana
& peanut butter shake!). They also have a decent breakfast
and dessert menu that swings to the sweeter end of the
spectrum (cakes, panna cotta, croissants etc.) Amidst all
the foams and sugary treats the coffee itself feels a bit lost.
While our flat white was only just good, the cafe itself is
truly Grand.QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 72, tel. (+48) 696 38
33 87. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 21:00. T6GSW

Bringing together coffee and books has always been
a winning combination and Litera has been at the
forefront of this niche in the city for some time now.
This recently renovated ahd relaxing caf is decorated
with a red colour scheme, giant wallpaper like vintage
photos of d streets and tables featuring maps of
the city from various years throughout history is an
extremely popular venue for bibliophiles, coffee lovers
and fans of their fantastic homemade cakes. The caf
also plays host to literary events, readings and group
meetings.QD6, ul. Nawrot 7, tel. (+48) 693 65 43 22.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Tucked away in a courtyard behind Piotrkowska,
Montag is a simple and stylish artisan bakery and caf
which specialises in the art of bread making. Ten types
of sweet and savoury breads make up the products
available daily and small samples are laid out on the
counter so that you can try before you buy. Special
edition breads are also made for occasions like Easter
or Valentines Day. The caf is one long, heavy wooden
table surrounded by pastel coloured plastic seating.
Enjoy a cake and a coffee while watching the master
baker kneading his dough behind a large glass window.
QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 608 63 25 32.
Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Our bean-hound was so taken with this specialist coffee
bar that he wanted to keep it a secret, but what would be
the point of that? The selection of beans all come from small
plantations around Africa and South America, are roasted
by independent Polish companies like Czarny Deszcz or
Coffee Proficiency and arrive at the caf within days of
being roasted. Notes on the coffees in stock are available, or
just chat with coffee guru Piotrek. Beans, aeropress devices
and chemex coffee makers are available to buy. Leafies, are
also well catered for with a fine range of exotic teas. Oh, and
dont forget the popular cakes which are made by Piotreks
mum!QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 605 10 16 04.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Being located in the legendary d film school makes it
the perfect place for budding young cineastes to visit. Plop
yourself down, like a nonchalant Polanski, on one of the
welcoming couches to enjoy their exquisite coffees, cakes
(including Japanese and Turkish style sweetmeats), salads,
sandwiches, light dishes and freshly pressed juices. The caf
also plays host to numerous talks by interesting people
from the cultural scene and live music events.QG4, ul.
Targowa 61/63, tel. (+48) 42 275 59 67, www.zetcafe.pl.
Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

A relatively recent phenomena, rickshaws were first
introduced to d in 1993 and today youll find over
a hundred pedaling breathlessly up and down ulica
Piotrkowska. Most will operate on a fixed fee basis
any journey, whether it be from one end of the 4km
street to the other, or just a short one minute trip, will
cost 5z (10z for two people), though that will not stop
enterprising drivers from trying to take advantage of
foreign accents. To save on embarrassing situations its
recommended to agree on a price before hopping on
board. Rickshaws are permitted to stray off the main
street, Piotrkowska, and can be driven anywhere where
a normal bicycle is permitted. Do be warned though
drivers will often use straying off centre as an excuse to
jack the fare right up.
Ranging from rusty-looking contraptions, to streamlined
efforts with roofs, rickshaws present the most economic
way of tearing down Piotrkowska and are as much
favoured by locals as they are by tourists. Driven by
everyone from super-fit brutes, to knackered old
barflies, youll find rickshaws operating throughout the
year no matter what the weather may be. Pedestrians
should note that many of these drivers have a kamikaze
attitude towards their job; if you hear a bicycle bell
tinkling close by jump onto the nearest curb.
January - April 2016



The mixologists at Szpulka will shake up your night just right.

ds commitment to hedonism is on a par with Polands

capital. For the unadventurous a straight-forward pub
crawl down ulica Piotrkowska is the way to go, though
stand advised some of the best drinking dens in town are
found squirrelled away in the back streets and side alleys.
Follow your nose.

Another vote for Buddha Pub for cocktails that will make
you weak at the knees. Couples that like to kick up their
heels should check out the intimately-named Bedroom
to shake their groove things among the citys most stylish

During the warmer months the streets, particularly

Piotrkowska, are thronged with beer gardens. Once the
chillier weather starts to move in the party shifts back
inside and downstairs. For the most part youll be paying
no more than 8z for a large beer, and bear in mind that the
opening hours we list are flexible: most bars will stay open
as long as drinkers are drinking. Clubs often charge an entry
fee, many of which are based on whats on offer that night.

One of our favorite local haunts, Chmielowa Dolina is
your best bet for local micro-brews as well as the finer pints
from Czech, Belgium and beyond. And Owoce i Warzywa
Klubokawiarnia is the best haunt around to rub shoulders
with the eccentric side of Lodzs bohemian undergound.

Here are a few ideas depending on what you are looking

Swig cocktails with the beautiful people at Buddha Pub,
one of the most stylish bars in the city with the clientele to
match, or visit SODA for true top shelf VIP treatment!
Check out the gazillion strip clubs that have popped up
around town, including the veteran and reigning queen
Magnes which promises extreme carnal delights. Irish
Pub has a true pub atmosphere plus the delicious food
from the dining room will keep you on your feet a we
longer and ole Iron Horse is one of the manlier operations
weve experienced in all of Poland.
32 d In Your Pocket


Lodz has no shortage of curious locales. Lodz Kaliska is
a legend, and the madness is hard to imagine until you
experience it. And newcomer Shotme serves up some of
the strangest sprinkle-coated shots weve ever tried.
If youre still roaming the streets past your bedtime and still
looking for some action, head back to ye ole Iron Horse
for a few more guilt beers. If youre looking to go high class
in the wee small hours nothing beats the illustrious Loa
Club to load you up for that champagne stumble into the

Wheres the party?


By day its Restauracja Gronowalski but by night this
stylish brick building morphs into Buddha Pub, a sleek
venue that promises unique cocktails to enjoy with
friends. The occasional hip live music gig and the stylish
clientele reflects the citys role as the hub of Polish
fashion (we recommend you dress the part). The drinks
menu is almost as dazzling as the sparkly Buddha Bar
emblazoned on the staff uniforms, and smokers will be
delighted to know the first floor offers a smoking room
that contains its very own bar. They also have large
screen TV so you can watch your favorite team in style.
QG4, ul. Tymienieckiego 22/24, tel. (+48) 42 673 02
90, www.buddhapub.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. UXW
The unassuming shop-like frontage is easily missed, but
behind the basic exterior hides a true beer monsters
paradise. Small breweries from around Poland and the
Czech Republic rule the roost on 16 taps, but brews and
bottles from many other countries are also on offer. In fact,
the beer menu is so vast that we gave up reading it after
page 23! Prices start at a very reasonable 5.50zl and go up to
a staggering 49zl for a bottle of Belgian Chimay Blue Grande
Reserve. Snacks and grilled sausages are on standby to soak
up the booze. Nice customers, knowledgeable staff and a
smoking room... Perfecto Mundo!QC5, ul. Piotrkowska
123, tel. (+48) 608 36 28 56. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
14:00 - 02:00. XW
Housed in the famous Teodor Steigert townhouse (1895)
with its stunning neo-baroque faade, you already know
from the outside this is going to be one elegant and
sophisticated venue. The interior fit out is reminiscent of
the finest gentlemens clubs of bygone eras - heavy on
dark exotic woods and sumptuous leather armchairs. The
walk in humidor features a great range of cigars from Cuba,
the Dominican Republic and Colombia. Currently the malt
whisky selection stands just over 100, with the in-house
nose constantly on the lookout for worthy additions. Keep
an eye out for their semi regular tasting events (you must
sign up in advance) and live music at least once a month.
Ideal for business meetings, an evening drink, or pop in
during the day for a robust Colombian Dictador coffee or
fine loose leaf tea.QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 90, tel. (+48) 730
94 47 59, www.whiskyandcigars.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
Long before d really took off 102 was considered one
of the edgiest places in town - and it still is thanks to a
crack bar staff that knows how to mix a mean cocktail and
wont make you feel like a fool if you dont know your Jim
from your Jack. This spot has atmosphere in spades and it
spills out into the well-trodden courtyard on the weekends.

January - April 2016


Inside, arty photos cling to brick clad walls, with wooden
tables crowded together inside a low lit space that is a great
place to creep into as the witching hour approaches. The
self-service bar brings with it the spoils of democracy, and
once you muscle your way to the front, do yourself a favour
and ask Bartek to mix you a drink, hell set you straight.
QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 502 66 01 21, www.
fotocafe102.pl. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 03:00,
Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. XW
As far as hotel bars go, this ones a cracker. The list of
alcohols on offer is exceptional, probably more choice
than in Oliver Reeds drinks cabinet! The whisky/whiskey
list alone comprises over 119 different bottles, including
some special offerings such as the Ardbeg Corryvreckan - a
true peaty monster of a malt. The cocktails range features
classic and signature concoctions to satisfy every craving.
Topping it all off, theres a great list of American and Asian
dishes to choose from, everything from snacks to mains.
The efficient, amiable staff are extremely attentive creating
a thoroughly relaxing ambience overall. Well leave the last
word to a foreign businessman we chatted to before we
headed off into the night, Why bother going anywhere
else?.QA7, ul. kowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton d
Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 36, www.doubletreelodz.pl.
Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. UGW
A staple of the d scene since 1994, the Irish Pub on ul.
Piotrkowska is under new ownership and they made a lot of
big changes. Upstairs remains an old style bar with a strong
naval theme and a warm pub atmosphere, whereas the
basement bar and restaurant has undergone a complete
overhaul with a splendid mix of modern and traditional
elements; private cubicles, open fireplaces and a choice of
rooms hint at 19th century Peoples Palaces with an up to
date twist. The introduction of around 50 fine malts, a new
seasonally changing menu, regular live music and its famous
courtyard garden will guarantee its ongoing popularity.
QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 77, tel. (+48) 662 15 32 00, www.
irishpub.pl. Open 15:00 - 23:30, Thu 15:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat
14:00 - 01:30, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. IEXW
Three levels of carnage inside the most famous bar in town.
Featuring a slanty bar, glass floors and an industrial design
of exposed pipes and steel stairwells this is a must-visit,
with a crowd that covers all bases - from important looking
expats to theatre ponces courting students half their age.
Explore the ground floor, where the weird art minds behind
K have opted for a design with clearly one thing on their
mind - breasts, and in particular the bare boobs of Victorian
era battlepigs. Kudos to that. Things arent any more
sensible upstairs, where potty DJs mix unmixable genres
to the baying howls of an appreciative audience.QC5,
ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 42 630 69 55, www.klub.
lodzkaliska.pl. Open 15:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:30 - 06:00.
34 d In Your Pocket

A spacious watering hole whose slightly sombre brickwork
and dark woods are brightened up by the blonde tables
and back-lit bottles of colourful liquids behind the bar. In
the evenings a Cheers-like atmosphere prevails, with lots
of laughter and happy banter between the customers
and staff. A short menu of burgers, bar snacks and salads
is available once the munchies kick in, while four flat
screens beam live sports events around the bar, with the
customers and staff particularly committed to watching
22 men kicking a ball around a patch of grass.QC4, ul.
Piotrkowska 82, tel. (+48) 42 633 06 43. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GW
Clamber up the iron staircase plonked in the middle of the
courtyard and head towards the heavy door at the end of
the walkway. This in itself is rather apt - the name Niebostan
translates as State of Heaven, so think of the entrance as
an industrial Stairway to Heaven with a factory-like Pearly
Gates. The caf describes itself as Percentages, Letters and
Sounds - so thats booze, books and music. A slightly older
arty crowd means that they can side swerve the hipster tag
associated with much of the competition. A great range of
beers, regular events, gigs and the ramshackle bookshop
area make it one of the most talked about cultural spots
in d. Watch your step in the courtyard, its a popular
spot for city centre dog owners to let their pooches relieve
themselves!QC3, ul. Piotrkowska 17, tel. (+48) 510 02
24 58. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. EGW
Run by the same folks who operate the specialty beer store
down the street, Piwoteka Narodowa is where serious beer
drinkers set up shop. The interior is dark and very man-cave:
think beer paraphernalia on the walls and jumbled tables
of drinkers. The bar itself is what will illicit immediate awe:
bottle upon bottle of the best Europe has to offer, from
Czech to Belgium and Polish to Danish - all that separates
you is a bottle opener.QC5, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48)
42 679 69 10, www.piwotekanarodowa.pl. Open 14:00 24:00. GW
There ought to be a law stating that all beer aficionados
MUST visit this fantastic bar! Not only does it serve up a great
selection of ever-changing Polish and international craft
beers from 13 beer taps (and one tap with kvass!), its also
one of the most stunning venues to sip brews in the city.
Situated in the lower level of the famous Meyer Villa (1887),
the bar is entered via the beautiful multi-levelled sunken
garden area and the design has taken its influences from
classic bars of the 1920s - 50s. The also make great coffees
and have delicious sandwiches and light fare plus they have
an exhibition space and regular live music of a lo-fi acoustic
and jazzy nature. From another barrel indeed!QC4, ul.
Moniuszki 6, tel. (+48) 720 13 13 13. Open 17:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. EGW

The name hurts - we know. Joined at the hip to its partner
in crime SODA; Abracadabra is a plush living-room felt
dancehall catering to the more upmarket clientele of d. A
cocktail wouldnt go amiss while watching the dance floor fill
up on a Saturday night with those 90s hits we all sing along
to when no one is watching. It seems the 1st place in d
where the over 21 policy is taken to heart- its a playground
for grown ups.QD5, Pl. Komuny Paryskiej 6, tel. (+48) 698
34 53 45. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. G
Were kind of on the fence about All Star - its like one of
those student union hangouts that youre just hoping that
weird group of seniors arent at. Similar to what youd find at
Off or Niebostan, but down at Piotrkowska 217. They have a
packed concert and event schedule plus a pretty standard
selection of cocktails and array of spirits on offer to go along
with the a standard beer selection. Bare in mind though,
drinking a cocktail down here seems almost blasphemous.
Come summer time though, they have a grassy area nearby
and occasionally a little BBQ setup so its worth dragging a
couple of friends down there for the chill of it all.QG4,
ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 723 78 16 00. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. EG
Where do we begin...? A full on Disco Polo (a sort of Polish,
mainstream weird techno) club that generally attracts a
more mature clientele. Its located where two clubs have
failed in the past, but this place shows no signs of following
suit. Its always packed. The staff are actually worthy of note
as well, which is rare for a nightclub - and the ease of it
all is a bit refreshing. On the other hand, there is a level of
tackiness about it that makes you just stand back wideeyed, in disbelief. Before heading there make sure you
Google Disco Polo because the written word just doesnt
have that thumping, synth-crunching impact.QC5, ul.
Piotrkowska 90, tel. (+48) 530 53 05 81. Open Fri 20:00 04:00 and Sat 20:00 - 05:00 only. G
Polish clubland has been enjoying a bit of an Asian makeover
in recent years, and what better evidence than the arrival of
this landmark club. Set with eastern icons, curtained off booths,
and a red-lit cubic bar this place is the best news d clubbing
has had for a while - not that this city has been short of that.
Demonstrating the citys refusal to be outshone by Warsaw, the
newly redesigned Bedroom looks a million bucks and youll find
a cast of slim-shaped hip wigglers slouched on deep sofas and
doing their thing to a music policy clearly influenced by the
more fashionable sounds coming from the orient. Check their
FB page for their full upcoming concert program.QC4, ul.
Moniuszki 4a, tel. (+48) 607 60 99 99, www.bedroom.com.
pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 04:30. EG

Smoking Lounge
Live music every Thursdays,
Fridays and Saturdays
Kitchen open daily until 24.00,
at weekends until 01.00

We warmly invite you!

ul. Piotrkowska 77, d
Tel. +48 42 632 48 76, +48 662 153 200
pub@irishpub.pl, www.irishpub.pl


Ceiling drapes, Persian rugs and even a burbling fountain
lend Sahara an atmosphere of almost overwhelming
cheese. We love it, and not just for the sofas that more
resemblant of beds. Hit them on weekends, when the party
stretches till daybreak in this meandering space of multiple
bars and dancefloors. Check out their new location on ul.
Zamkowa 4, Pabianice.QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 143, tel.
(+48) 530 36 36 63, www.sahara-club.com. Open 15:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. XW

Its gotten significantly harder to make fun of Czekolada,
former home of leopard carpeting and other questionable
design decisions, after a recent renovation has made it - dare
we say - classy. Fortunately, its only the appearance that has
grown up as the crowd is still students, and their clothes are
still microscopic. We stumbled on what appeared to be a
casino night, one of the many themes the club uses to keep
things interesting (were curious about what Girls, Girls, Girls
entails). Claw your way onto the new dance floor and embrace
Czekolada without embarrassment.QC4, ul. Piotrkowska
55, tel. (+48) 663 56 63 44, www.klubczekolada.com.
Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. UGW
January - April 2016


The latest attempt to turn this city centre venue into a
club which will stay the course appears to be off to a good
start. The interior sticks to a fairly stark grey, industrial look
with the majority of upgrade cash being pumped into
an impressive new lighting system and a 14m long neon
lit bar. The smaller room places its musical emphasis on
classic house, while the larger tends to spin a range of
music including RnB, hip-hop and electronica. Top DJs
from around Poland and farther afield, themed nights,
professional pole dancing displays and a sauve glass VIP
room.QC5, ul. Struga 8/10, tel. (+48) 537 12 64 85.
Open 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. XW
Its bling heaven in Kokoo, an upmarket dance arena thats
filled a niche following the death of Coffees and Toffees.
Dress to impress if you want entry before proceeding to
shimmy and sashay with local fashion fatalities. If you dont
fancy knocking elbows and knockers with the hoi polloi
then sneak a place in one of the side rooms. The DJ gods
play electro, funk, chart hits and deep house on Fridays and
Saturday on the multiple dance floors.QC4, ul. Moniuszki
1, tel. (+48) 695 34 66 55, www.klubkokoo.pl. Open Fri,
Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. UX
Since 2010 Lordis has made a name for itself amongst
students, tourists, expats, locals, Poles, visitors, celebrities,
as the place to go to have a night out. With a huge
following and a guaranteed full club come Thursday, Friday
and Saturday nights it is the place to be with the most of
the most. With a separate VIP room up the metal stairs (Foo
Foo), Lordis is the biggest club in the city and has hosted
a number of International DJs/performers and Polish
homegrown celebrities. You wont find hipsters here, nor
will you find anyone interested in good conversation - this
a place to go crazy, let loose and enjoy a night in Lodz that
only Lordis can deliver.QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel.
(+48) 662 36 63 66, www.lordisclub.com. Open 22:00 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. GW
Lush, plush and for those who are, or think they are, flush.
Loa has certainly upped the standard for club life in the
city. Situated in a lovely old townhouse (former home to
the d Business Club) the owners have managed to
maintain the feeling of grandeur of the architecture and
style while simultaneously kicking the whole place into
the 21st century. Part London Gentlemens club - with
a cigar, whisky and billiards area - part fin de sicle Paris
house of tolerance and part heaving dance floor make
it all sublimely decadent! Guest DJs, live music, fashion
events and burlesque shows add to the fun. Donald Trump
and Snoop Dogg sitting in leather armchairs, exchanging
hairstyling tips and sipping cocktails wouldnt look out of
place here.QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 85, tel. (+48) 509 80 84
25, www.lozaclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00.
36 d In Your Pocket


This new live music club and cocktail bar is filling a Hard Rock
shaped hole in ds nightlife and promises to be the go to
venue for nightly live music, featuring the best of the best of
local and international jazz and rock acts, plus good food and
great cocktails. The spacious bar and lounge offers plenty of
space to sprawl out and enjoy the show, but make sure to
reserve a spot if you want a booth or table as they fill up quick.
The American inspired menu offers delicious steaks, burgers,
quesadillas and their top notch bartenders mix up delicious
drinks and classic cocktails all night long. This may just become
your new favourite club in town.QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 62,
tel. (+48) 661 38 26 18, www.newyork.net.pl. Open 18:00 02:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. EXW
Walking down the metal black staircase into presumably
Sean Combs pristine miami-vice inspired Underground
Stage, is an intimidating act. You dress to impress at
SODA. The kind of place you pretend to know inside out
while your friends gawk at the girls lining the side sofas journeying along the Croc & G.H. Mumm engine rooms
and dominating central bar to the pleasantly surprising
summer garden. Seemingly separated by musical genres,
the two floors of lavish guests squander for a drink in what
is ds new big spenders hub. Ergo, Fridays here are a
must.QD5, Pl. Komuny Paryskiej 6, tel. (+48) 698 34 53
45. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. X

Unlike beer, wine can be an intimidating drink; theres
the swirling, the elaborate pouring, the use of the word
mouthfeel. Luckily none of that perceived pretension
exists at Klub Wino, a new store and wine bar that makes
the beverage accessible to all. Much of that spirit is due to
the jovial owner, who is fortunately liberal with his opinions
- we enjoyed hearing his take on the state of Polish wines and happy to make recommendations. The wine bar space
is minimalist, with just bare white walls and wood tables to
keep the focus on the beverage - - a club without being a
clubhouse.QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 602 76
96 99, www.klubwino.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. UGW

Since IYP first arrived in d, this has been the sauciest
night out in town, and remains just that, with a cracking
line-up of girls doing their bit for international relations by
dropping their knickers in next to no time at all. The shows
here are frank and to the point, and if you cant spring for a
private dance then the bartop shows are equally revealing.
All this inside a typical strip club atmosphere, with plenty
of chrome poles and neon slashes, plus a 30z entrance fee.
QB3, ul. Zachodnia 44, tel. (+48) 42 632 32 23, www.
clubmagnes.pl. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. XW











d, ul. Zachodnia 44 www.clubmagnes.pl (0048) 42 632 32 23


Manufaktura today is the result of Polands largest

renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaws
Old Town in the 1950s (something you can read about in
the Warsaw edition of In Your Pocket). The history of the
site is one of fortunes made and lost, of war, nationalization
and destitution. What you see before you was once a series
of factories - all producing various textiles - that were
constructed in the latter part of the 19th century.
Designed by Hilary Majewski, a graduate of St Petersburg
University, the mills were built in a red-brick industrial style,
incorporating the occasional Art Nouveau flourish. They
were the property of Izrael Poznaski, a Jewish merchant
who saw the need for high quality textiles on the eastern
markets of Russia, Japan and China. As Lodz was at the time
the most westerly city in the Russian Empire, Poznaski
was able to match western textile expertise and industrial
practices with limitless access to eastern markets. It was a
winning combination, and one that made him a fortune
and put od on the map.
d was waking up, the first yelling factory whistle pierced
the quiet of the early morning, then in all parts of the city
others began to spring up ever more raucously and bawled
in hoarse voices like a choir of monstrous roosters crowing
their metal throats the call to work. The huge factories, whose
long black bulks and slender chimney necks loomed in the
darkness, in the fog and rain they were slowly waking up,
belching flames of fire, exhaling clouds of smoke.
- Wadysaw Reymont, The Promised Land
38 d In Your Pocket

The first Manufaktura loom began spinning in 1852. Real
growth however came about during the period 1872-1892,
by which time more than 80,000 spindles spread over 12
separate factories were churning out high-quality textiles at
a rate unmatched anywhere in Europe at the time. Poznaski
adored luxury - when asked what style he wished one of his
residences to be built in he allegedly declared All of them, I
can afford them all! The palaces he built for himself all over
the city are testament to his fondness for extravagance, but
he was also considered a visionary employer.
ds rise to industrial prominence in the second half
of the 19th century saw the city transform from a sleepy
backwater into a gritty metropolis bursting with red brick
factories and a horizon crowned with smoking chimney
stacks. As the population exploded suburbs sprang up,
including poverty stricken rat mazes like Bauty and
Chojny. The more conscientious factory owners took it on
themselves to build tenements to house their workers; Izrael
Poznaski provided 1,086 apartments for 4,043 people.
Designed by Hilary Majewski, one of the architects behind
Poznaskis award winning textile factory (it snatched the
Bronze Medal at the 1878 World Exhibition in Paris), many
of these shadowy housing projects still exist, and exploring
their dark courtyards and flaking corridors is like a step back
in time. Take a look at how the proletariat used to live by
peering into the buildings that stand on ul. Ogrodowa 24
and 26, a couple of which are being renovated.

While his workers may have been squashed into tenements,
make no mistake that their boss lived the high life. Poznaski
had the sort of egocentric, hyper-wealthy lifestyle associated
with modern day oligarchs, and his palaces and mansions
found around town are testimony to this. His HQ on
Ogrodowa 15 was the benchmark of flash, and stacked with
priceless treasures and frequently the home of high society
functions. Designed by Adolf Seligson the L-shaped structure
originally held a 770m2 winter garden topped with a glass
roof, as well as landscaped gardens out back. As most other
industrialists of the age, Poznaski had his residence built
right next to his factory, allowing him the opportunity to
watch his workforce marching to work each morning.
The man died in 1900, wealthy beyond imagination, and the
ownership of the company passed to his sons. Poznaski is
buried in an enormous mausoleum in the Jewish Cemetery
(some say the largest Jewish tomb in the world), a fitting
testament to the true king of bling. Manufaktura continued
to flourish, with many of its wares being shipped far and
wide to new markets in America and the Far East, though
the inter-war period marked the start of a decline as d
left the Russian empire and became part of Poland, losing
most of its eastern markets in the process. Production
continued throughout most of World War II though, after
which it was nationalised, and renamed Poltex.
The emphasis on quality was replaced by an emphasis on
quantity, with most of the goods produced here - primarily
cotton - being shipped off to the Soviet Union. The death

of the Warsaw Pact trading block COMECON left it without

any real market, factories closed and production fell. The
last textile worker left the plant - by then a rundown, halfderelict wreck - in 1997.

French developer Apsys bought the site in 2000. Work
began on transforming the crumbling mills into a
multifaceted cultural extravaganza in 2003. The opening
of the site on May 17, 2006 was therefore the culmination
of more than five years of planning and construction. The
results are stunning.
The original 19th century brick buildings remain the focal
point of the complex, having been entirely renovated:
some brick by brick, with only the chimney stacks which
once dominated the horizon missing. Director David Lynch
was so impressed he shot part of his film, Inland Empire,
on the premises. In all, more than 90,000m2 of red brick
buildings have been restored and completely refitted. An
equal amount of new buildings - mainly the shopping
centre - have gone up alongside, while commie leftovers
from the Poltex factory days have been demolished.
The restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be
seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznaski gate,
where workers used to file through every day on their way
to the mills, and youll arrive at the projects ground zero:
the Rynek (main square). In summer, this place really comes
into its element, with a phalanx of beer gardens, an artificial
beach and open-air concerts by international names.
The natural reaction to Manufaktura is to be staggered;
covering an area of 54 football pitches the complex spans,
in total, over 90,000m2, and makes use of 45,000 square
metres of restored original brickwork, fifty kilometres of
electric cables and over a kilometre of metal framework.
And what was already impressive on opening day has grown
more impressive still. Added over the years has been the
award winning Museum of the Factory, Art Museum - ms
which leads the line as one of Polands top galleries, and
the Experymentarium, easily the finest museum of its genre
in the country. Better still, the city has a hotel worthy of its
status as one of Polands key metropolises. Thats the andels
and can be found on the Ogrodowa side of the development.


January - April 2016



All the latest news


An American restaurant set in one of the renovated, freestanding buildings just off the square. The menu and the
service are as close to American as weve found in the city
with an excellent choice of burgers, ribs, fries and traditional
American sides. Well save special mention for the steaks
which we got to enjoy with a free beer by visiting during
the afternoon (they have different promotions every day).
Cooked as ordered, served with excellent fries and fried
vegetables on a wooden board and absolutely delicious.
This is definitely a place well be back to and well worth
recommending.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 80 21, www.
american-bull.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. (20-80z). UGSW

ground level features an open kitchen (shoot me now).

Head upstairs to a similarly designed area which appears
more spacious, airy and features a nice bar. Try one of their
signature cocktails which blends some pretty unique and
intriguing concoctions of flavours. They seem to have
successfully brought the cool ambience of some of the
OFF Piotrkowska venues to the rather plush Manufaktura.
QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 34 44, www.bawelna-lodz.
com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (20-60z).

Sister restaurant of the highly recommend Anatewka found
on ds ul. 6 Sierpnia, and though this place isnt nearly
as good its still a decent stop when youre Manufaktura
bound. Set on two levels this place has menorahs aplenty,
lacy frills and stirring Jewish childrens choirs singing along
to a constant cycle of Klezmer music.QRynek, tel. (+48)
42 633 22 77, www.anatewka.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
(25-69z). 6EXSW

Italian-run place, and it shows. Its all done well and
properly, and there are seriously good things going on in
the kitchen. Pizza and pasta are the forte here, with the
homemade sauces worth the visit alone. The clean and
clinical interiors buzz with custom no matter what time of
day.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 632 76 50, www.bella-napoli.
com.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. (15-55z). UXSW

Occupying a grand corner spot in the Manufaktura complex,
Bawelna serves up hearty doses of quality - mainly Italian
dishes at surprisingly good prices. The interior is well fitted
out with the de rigueur, neo-industrial/rustic look and the

A blinding beer hall with outstanding lager thats so
good youll want to take it away - and the good news
is that you can. Find the five house beers available to go
in either nifty little bottles or five litre barrels. But theres
more to Bierhalle than beer alone, and the food is on no
accounts second fiddle. Thump someone with the giant
picture menu and theyll see stars for week, though
dont resort to that sort of act without first ordering
- the tortillas are pretty good, though our favourite
is the sausage platter, served with an accompanying
wheelbarrow of chips. A great place indeed, with both
booze and food done inside a neo-industrial interior
replete with giant vats that bubble with beer.QRynek,
tel. (+48) 42 632 03 76, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (2148z). UGSW

French Potato in Manufaktura

40 d In Your Pocket

Photo by Mat Fahrenholz

Its the best hotel in town, so its no surprise the house
restaurant is staking a claim as the best eatery around. Set
to a neo-industrial background Delight has a naff name but
a chef who is clearly a star in the making. Its vast size means
empty seats are par for the course, but thats no reflection
on the culinary talent on show. Expect perfectly presented,
edgy cuisine that tastes every bit as good as it looks. The
were the only restaurant in d to be awarded 2 points in
the recent first edition of the Gault & Millau culinary guide.
QB1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (andels Hotel d), tel. (+48)
42 279 16 77, www.andelslodz.com. Open 06:30 - 10:30,
18:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (1467z). TUGSW



TEL. +48 (42) 633-

The besT sushi ResTAuRANTs

iN d

French Potato does a good job of converting the
humble pomme de terre into something quite
interesting. Their innovative baked potato fillings are
generally influenced by French regional dishes and
include the Alsace - smoked sausage, onions, cream
and salad or the adventurous Perigord - chicken
stomachs, goose and mushrooms. Potato cakes are also
used to maximum effect with their burgers appearing
between two potato cakes rather than the standard
bun. The environs are pretty swanky even for a place
with French in the name . Now you can enjoy your
tater treat of choice on a sofa in their new chill out area.
QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 09 99, www.frenchpotato.
pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (1940z). T6UGSW
A slightly Laura Ashley take on the familiar old Polish
farmhouse look makes Galicja look more fresh and
clean than most of the competition. The menu sticks to
tradition with a few innovative twists; hearty servings
of soups, pierogi and meat dishes. Our schnitzels were
the size of a fried frisbee and the potatoes came coated
with a tasty, slightly sweet sauce/dressing composed of
various seeds, greenery, lardons and onions. Friendly,
smiley staff and possibly the most attentive and
genuinely interested manager we have yet encountered.
Its also the first eatery in the Manufaktura complex to
make use of its huge cellar area with a bar serving up
eight regional beers and regular folk concerts.QRynek,
tel. (+48) 42 630 88 55, www.galicjamanufaktura.pl.
Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (15-35z).

Ganesh takes their successful Indian formula from
Piotrkowska Street to the heart of Manufaktura, bringing
their creamy palak paneer and spicy curries with them.
Shoppers can rejuvenate with crispy samosas inside a
new two-storey interior that is all shiny sleekness and
peppy Bollywood grooves. Also at (C-4) ul. Piotrkowska
69.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 12 13, www.ganesh.
pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (20-50z).

sushi deliveRed To youR hoTel Room.

ul. Pisudskiego 15/23
Tel. +48 42 239 55 55

ul. Jana Karskiego 5, lok. R-16
Tel.+48 42 634 00 60

42 d In Your Pocket

Fast food doesnt always clog the arteries, and Greenway
are the proof. Serving up a range of salads and samosas
this nationwide enterprise is little less than the McDonalds
of healthy eating, and highly recommended to anyone
watching both waist and wallet.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 632
16 96, www.greenway.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (9-18z).

Hana Sushi are one of the most successful sushi chains in
the country, which makes it no surprise that youll find it
at Manufaktura. Very competently prepared sushi sets,
served by pleasant black-robed staff in a modern, clean cut
interior. Also at (D-7) ul. Galeria dzka.QRynek, tel. (+48)
42 634 00 60, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (35-50z). UVGS
This delicious Thai venture holds the honour of delivering
the most mouth-searing meal weve had in Poland (theyre
not kidding about the hot in Hot Spoon). That came in the
form of chicken pad Thai, but the menu is awash in curry
and noodle dishes that promise an equally fiery explosion
in your mouth. The decor is sleek and straight from the Thai
restaurant playbook, while the service is up there with the
best - - our waiter seemed to know exactly when wed be
requesting that extra glass of water to douse the flames.
QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 90 90, www.hotspoon.pl. Open
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (18-50z). VGSW
Couples love La Vende, a violet/vanilla spot festooned
with frills, shrubs and creaky wood fittings. Designed by
a distinctly feminine hand this little gem has a healthy
menu of salads and suchlike, as well as a wine list that really
goes the distance. Theyve got the food right, theyve got
the atmosphere right; whats keeping you? Also at (I-4) ul.
Elsnera 23 and ul. Piotrkowska 76 (C-5).QRynek, tel. (+48)
512 12 07 67, www.lavende.eu. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (20-70z). TUEGSW
A modern spin on a traditional style Chinese restaurant
with a calming interior decorated in black, white and gold.
The menu itself is a reasonable list of standard Chinese
dishes. For something a bit different we suggest you give
the fish and vegetables stewed in beer a go. A slight air of
disappointment prevailed as the shrimp dim sum arrived
and didnt resemble the elegant presentation portrayed in
the menu photo. Mind you, all was forgiven after sampling
the near perfect dumplings. A special mention goes to the
black clad, professional and perfectly amiable waiting staff.
QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 636 31 30, www.mei-mei.pl. Open
11:00 - 23:00. (24-36z). TUGSW
Fish and frytki served in the closest d has to a fish and
chip shop. The food court location should serve as no
deterrent for those wanting their fill of supremely cheap
brain food.QFood Court, www.northfish.pl. Open 10:00
- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (6-25z). TUGS
Pizza for the non-discerning masses. Ten out of ten for
consistency.QRynek, tel. (+48) 713 86 15 51, www.
pizzahut.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (15-40z). TUG

January - April 2016


Celebrity chef Magda Gessler strikes again, this time
in her native cuisine. Polka, which is so awash in
poppy-themed dcor you wont know where to look
(the poppies even climb the ceiling and grip the
staffs uniforms). Another Gessler hallmark is reliably
exceptional food, and here Polka similarly delivers.
Stylish Polish dishes fly out of the kitchen and include
hits like crispy duck served with beetroot and traditional
bigos stew (the menu calls it a noble dish). And while
meatballs and fish sticks might not be strictly Polish,
the kids menu gets a good workout at this familyfriendly venue.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 35 30, www.
restauracjapolka.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 22:00. (12 -100z). TUGSW

for each entree free beer

with this guide

Drewnowska 58 C, 91-002 d
Tel. (+48) 42 630 09 99

One question you might
ask in a moment of rare
contemplation is where
the name d came
from. Well, it means
boat, as in the kind that
appears on the citys
coat of arms. But why
the boat when theres
not a river in sight?
Its a question worth

Mateusz War, pondering. The fact is
Wikimedia Commons prior
to engineering
breakthroughs this was very much a city on the water. In
total the city has 18 rivers running through it, covering
a staggering span of 123.9km. It was rivers such as the
Ner and the Bzura that kept ds factories connected
with the outside world, though over time chronic
pollution led to a campaign to cover them. It was a
process that lasted well into the 1920s, though now
the buzzword is restoration. Already the Sokowka has
been given the beauty treatment, and next in line is the
Jasie. The environmental project has so far proved a
success, with trout spotted in the Sokowka, and even
a crayfish granted, its not the piranha that appeared
in the Wisa last year, but itll do for now.
44 d In Your Pocket

Overlooking the entrance to Manufakturas main
shopping hub, Rajskie Jado has a clean and simple nofrills interior with the downstairs wall decor comprised
mainly of photo posters of lunch deals and, heres the big
plus point, their super cheap prices. The menu of soups,
chicken, fish and pork dishes sticks close to what we
would consider Polish classics. Taking a peek along the
hot-plates its also nice to see that everything on offer
looks perfectly prepared and appealing. Considering it
came in at the staggeringly low price of 16zl, our pork
schnitzel with potatoes, carrots, cabbage and beetroot
was better than some we have had at double the price.
QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 636 11 11, www.jesc.pl. Open
10:00 - 22:00. (16-21z). TUGS
A rarity amongst the numerous eateries in the Manufaktura
complex - a truly hip and contemporary bistro serving
seasonally-inspired Polish fusion dishes in a modern, arty
environment. All day breakfasts are a new highlight like a
classic scramble with french toast or a more fit selection
of granola, fruit, nuts and yoghurt. The downstairs is pretty
much half open kitchen, half seating. The definitions of
space seem to blend into each other rather nicely with
wooden, glass-fronted cases showing works by artists and
designers like photographer/illustrator Blanka Biernat. Also
worth noting is a large wall mural by Proembrion (Krzysztof
Syru).QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 24 72. Open 08:00
- 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. (10-50z). GSW
The decor of this three-level eatery can only be described
as nautical, from the bar shaped like a boat to the life rings,
sails and ships wheels pinned to every available surface.
The staff gets in on the act with little sailor caps and serve
up a range of Italian inspired dishes like pizza, spaghetti
and seafood dishes. Everything proves to be tasty while at
the same time leaving plenty in your purse to blow across
the Rynek in the mall.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 98,
www.tawerna.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 24:00. (20-50z). VGSW

Theres already a full-service Costa Coffee stand inside
Manufaktura, but if youre looking to enjoy the Rynek with
a latte in one hand and brownie in the other, this new
location offers ideal people-watching and spurts of the
kid-magnetizing fountains.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 05
99, www.costacoffee.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00. T6UGSW
For those who dont mess about with anything but the
best. A mind-boggling array of ice creams served inside an
informal interior thats as popular with families as it is with
girly teens giggling at text messages. Also at Rynek (Open
11:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00).QMall, tel. (+48)
42 634 85 84, www.maxice.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. TUGSW
Polands first and most famous confectionary outlet,
operating since 1851. The hot chocolate is their principal
claim to fame, though their offerings extend to cakes
and confectionary that have most Poles salivating at their
very mention.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 631 00 36, www.
wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. TUSW

Theres many reasons to visit Manufaktura, but they dont
get any better than Bierhalle - a top microbrewery where
the five house lagers come served by cheerful wenches
wearing Bavarian frocks. King of the bunch is the award
winning pils with their milk stout coming in at a close
second. Inside, explore a vast woodcut interior and watch
the brewing process in action while chomping on burpy
beer bites like Nuremberg sausage.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42
632 03 76, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. UGW

Read more reviews online:

A strange bar is Oscars, not least because the actual bar
feels so disattached from everything around; youll find it in
the lobby of the Andels, with no seats by the counter and
well removed from those who want to use it. Fortunately
thats not a problem: the staff are eagle-eyed enough to
ensure your glass is never empty, while the post-modern
design is like space ship meets factory. The cocktails are
pretty decent as well, and could easily wipe your memory
clean.QB1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (andels Hotel d), tel.
(+48) 42 279 16 24, www.andelslodz.com. Open 09:00 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. UGW

January - April 2016




A very impressive space located in a building that once
housed a 19th century weaving plant. Home to both
temporary exhibition and an impressive permanent collection
entitled The Art Collection of the XX and XXI Centuries. The
museum is home to more than 400 works of contemporary
art and includes artists like Pablo Picasso, Tamasz Kasasz and
Paul Klee. Theres a constant cycle of cutting edge temporary
exhibitions that are usually world class. English translations
and pamphlets available plus an art cafe and a cracking
bookshop.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 39 48, www.msl.
org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission to permanent exhibits 10/5z, students 26 and
under pay just 1z. Thu is free for all exhibits.


Laser-quest style entertainment inside an indoor labyrinth
apparently filled with surprises, traps and special effects. A
modernisation has moved the game to the first floor next to
Experymentarium and upped the space to 350 m2.QRynek,
tel. (+48) 42 633 52 62, www.arena-lasery.pl. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 12-29z.
The highest climbing wall in d weighs in at eleven
metres in height, and over 500 square metres of climbing
space. The walls here can also be adjusted to suit the
individual, from greenhorn rookie to mountain ace.
QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 34 90, www.stratosfera.org.
Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 6-30z. N
A state-of-the-art 14 screen cinema with all the trimmings.
QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.cinema-city.pl.
Open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 14-31z.

MS2 Modern Art Gallery at Manufaktura

Mat Fahrenholz


Of all the museums in d you wont find any that are
better geared towards the foreign visitor. All displays are
complimented with thorough English explanations that put
the majority of Polish museums to shame. Occupying a second
floor space next to Manufakturas multiplex cinema this spot is
more than just a diversion from your days shopping. From the
moment you pay your admission fee its a trip back in time.
This small but perfectly formed museum offers a complete
history of the Manufaktura complex, complete with 4 working
looms, a steam engine model, various dioramas and even a
tiny cinema showing black and white mini-documentaries (15
mins.) of factory scenes. Its packed full of peculiar facts, and a
look at the boards reveals untold trivia - for instance, the story
behind one of the original architects of the complex, Dawid
Rosenthal, who was shot by militant workers back in 1910. The
photo montages offer a vivid trip through history, as well as
moments of amusement; check the pictures of the factorys
sports teams and bands. Take the trip up to the year-round
viewing terrace (an extra 2/1z) to get a birds eye view of the
factory. Make sure to exit through gift shop, which features
some English language books on the subject if you want to
read more about this fascinating place.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42
664 92 93, www.muzeumfabryki.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/5z, family
ticket 13z. For an English speaking guide reservations
must be made at least a week in advance and will cost
75z. Guided tours in Polish 20z. Guided tours included in
the price of the tickets Sat, Sun 13:00 and 16:00 but only in
Polish and for groups of 15 or more. N
46 d In Your Pocket

Whoa, heres a museum that makes science fun, and in a way
that rather than ordering you to keep away from the glass,
actively encourages visitors to push, touch and enter. The
experiments visitors get to play around with are the brainchild
of Polish scientists and students, and revolve around ideas
of light, sound, anatomy, nature and new discoveries. The
space takes up 800m2 of the Manufaktura complex, and also
features a wing designated for temporary exhibits from Polish
and European institutions. Patrons include d University
and the d Technical University. Your visit should take
approximately 80 minutes, during which time youll wander
a large open space filled with exhibitions. Currently the main
exhibits are the Experymentarium Exhibition, which includes
mad light experiments, a cosmic tunnel, an area devoted to
developing your senses of smell, hearing and touch without
using your vision; Risk, which delves into why we take the risks
we do and how humans rate the various risks in their lives; and
two other interactive modules - Biology and Physics. Always
ones to keep on-the-ball, theres a constant twirl of temporary
exhibits coming through the place as well.QRynek, tel.
(+48) 42 633 52 62, www.experymentarium.pl. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 17/14z/
person - family tickets 40z/3-person or 52z/4-person. U
Find three pool tables, 28 bowling lanes, a dance floor, a
conference room and, best of all, a licensed bar.QRynek,
tel. (+48) 42 630 40 52, www.grakula.pl. Open 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. Billards 9z per half hour;
bowling 10-15z per game per person, 49-80z per hour.
Fully air-conditioned, and allegedly one of most hi-tech
IMAX cinemas in the world.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 664 64
64, www.kinoimax.pl. Open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 20-31z.

Filled with lunar curves and a light, bright atmosphere the
shopping mall side to Manufaktura brings a new angle to
the otherwise red brick architecture. With over 9,000 m2 of
wood flooring the mall is split into four themes - industrial,
cinema, design and textile - so as to make navigation
easier. Those arriving with their kids in tow should consider
dispatching them to the crche found just off the Rynek,
close to the Bella Napoli restaurant.
Flagship stores include Leroy Merlin as well as a vast range
of brand name clothing stores like Hugo Boss, Hilfiger,
H&M, Timberland and an Adidas superstore. In total 306
retail units are occupied, with other tenants including the
Smyk toy store, EMPiK and EURO RTV AGD. Its not just
mega-brand stores though that are drawing processions
of spenders, but a top selection of specialist stores that
youll be lucky to find elsewhere, let alone under one roof.
If youre not ready to put your trust in ds restaurateurs
then by all means, see if you can do better yourself. Your
first point of call should be either Kuchnie wiata (first
floor) or Toscana, right next door. In the former find a
collection of hard-to-find goodies that range from Israeli
fruit drinks to Marmite to a range of sauces from across
the world. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in choice.
Toscana is a similarly upmarket delicatessen, this one
selling produce straight from Italy. Even more impressive
mind is the Alma supermarket, a haven that features peso
sauces imported from Liguria, hams courtesy of Krakowski
Kredens, countless European cheeses and over 200 global
coffee brands.

A lifeline for expats and contract workers, Kuchnie is
nothing less than an Aladdins Cave of hard-to-find world
food. Soft drinks, salsas, sauces, chocolate, cereals and raw
ingredients from all corners of the world.QMall, tel. (+48)
42 631 17 09, www.kuchnieswiata.com.pl. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Wide selection of cigars, imported direct from the home of
the worlds finest rollers, Havana. There is a massive range
of Cohibas, Montecristos and the like, and the friendly,
knowledgeable staff will help cigar beginners find their
way through the endless choice.QMall, tel. (+48) 42 634
35 21, www.oldhavana.shop.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00.
Top quality clothing and footwear for the outdoorsy type.
QMall, tel. (+48) 42 634 83 33, www.e-timberland.pl.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
A Italian deli theme with a full range of cold meats, wine,
pastas, conserves and olive oils to choose from.QMall, tel.
(+48) 515 18 22 58, www.toscana.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

After, why not hit Old Havana for your post-dinner cigar.
Complete with a walk-in humidor chamber this is just the
place for aficionados to test cigars imported from Cuba.
Other stores to watch for include an Apple iSpot store for
all your Mac needs.
Outside the main range of shops dont forego a visit to
the craftsmans alley between the Rynek and the mall; its
here youll find all manner of stores including a cobbler,
as well as privately run stores specialising in everything
from metalwork to traditional rural-style souvenirs. The
presence of much-hyped Magda Gessler-brand restaurant
Polka is also a sure sign that Manufaktura has arrived. For
a full map of the shopping centre or further info dont be
afraid to approach the English-speaking staff manning the
information point at the main entrance to the mall.
As the home of Polands famed film school Lodz can inspire
visitors to pick up Polaskis Chinatown or Wajdas Katy
(though not instantly, expect a 3-4 day wait) after a wander
through the Museum of Cinematography. Empik also offers
your best change at English-language periodicals. Also at
ul. Pisudskiego 15/23 (D-7, Galeria dzka).QMall, tel.
(+48) 22 451 04 15, www.empik.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
48 d In Your Pocket


Street Art
turn d into an open-air permanent art gallery was
initiated by the Urban Forms Foundation back in 2009 and
their aim is to improve the current image of d through
supporting and promoting independent artistic projects in
the citys public spaces. With the support of city council, the
Foundation has so far overseen the completion of 30 large
scale murals by some of Polands classiest street artists, like
local heroes the Etam Crew and the Gdynia-born painter
M-City. They have also invited some of the worlds leading
street artists to leave their permanent mark on the city, so
you can see work by Brazilian twins Os Gemeos, the cubist
inspired French artist Remed and many other international
stars of the scene. If you are keen to see all the murals the
foundation has supported, a great way of doing this is to
contact them via the Urban Forms website (urbanforms.
org) and ask about their private bus tours of the citys
fabulous mural art.

Corner of ul. Traugutta and ul. Sienkiewicza. Photo by Bartek Matyjas

The recent growth of street art in Poland may not be that

difficult to put in a historical context as the country has a
great tradition of using urban wall space for all manner of
creative ideas. The 1960s - 70s saw vast wall spaces used
for the advertising of communist-era state-run companies
and the current vogue for all things retro means that
the surviving examples are now being re-assessed and
revered as important graphic design visions of the time.
Plenty of wall art from this time can still be seen around
d, from the ghost-like faded text on the gable-end
wall of a building at the end of ul. Traugutta (C-4) to the
relatively well preserved graphic painting of a giant
butterfly advertising the state-run Pewex shops (where
imported goods could be purchased with US dollars) at ul.
Sienkiewicza 21 (C-4). Its well worth keeping an eye out
for these fading remnants of the citys not so distant past.
Over the last few years the somewhat gloomy streets of
d have come to life with the addition of numerous
enormous and brightly-coloured murals. The project to

Corner of ul. Narutowicza and ul. Uniwersytecka


Ul. Roosevelta

Wandering around the city you are also bound to stumble

across some rather fine and less in your face little creative
acts. We particularly like the painted and stencilled gas and
electricity boxes which are dotted around town. A nice one
featuring the profile of renowned Polish poet and writer
Julian Tuwim, who was born in d, can be seen on the
corner of ul. Sienkiewicza and ul. Traugutta (C-4).

Ul. Legionow 19

January - April 2016


Off Piotrkowska

Photo: Zosia Wawrzyniak

While Manufaktura is undoubtedly the rich and sanitised

version of the ultimate shopping experience in postindustrial d. OFF Piotrkowska is an altogether different,
unique and alternative proposition.
Situated just off ul. Piotrkowska (hence the name)
between numbers 138-140, the complex has taken over
the beautiful old cotton mill buildings of the former
Ramisch factory (C-6). Originally from Czechoslovakia, the
Ramisch family relocated to d in the 1830s and in 1850
purchased the first plot of land on which construction of
the factory began; adjoining plots were purchased as the
empire expanded. By 1909 the factory, in the very heart of
the city, was firing on all cylinders. Production continued
right up until 1990, after which the buildings and their rich
heritage were all but forgotten about and the area fell into
a sad and dilapidated state.
Towards the end of 2010 the massive potential of the area was
spotted by the young and very enthusiastic artistic visionaries
of the city, and a whole host of bars, clubs, alternative
music venues, studios, independent design companies and
publishing houses started appearing in the area.
Reminiscent of similar places in London or Berlin, OFF
continues to attract new and off-beat local businesses
with their pulse on current trends and fashions. The past,
the present and the future all coexist magically without
the need for the kind of massive investment which would
ultimately strip the place of its ramshackle glamour. On the
makeover point, it should be mentioned that the current
developer/investor has already drawn up plans for a total
upgrading and renovation of the area in the style of a miniManufaktura; heres hoping that never goes ahead!
To enter this gem of a place, head through the gate in the
ugly sandstone coloured wall at ul. Piotrkowska 138 (C-6)
into the large space of wasteland, which looks like a cleared
minefield, pass Asian fast food huts, the drunken downand-outs and head towards the huge red brick buildings,
you cant really miss them! This is the alternative beating
heart of the city which, unsurprisingly enough, also plays
host to the fantastic Fotofestiwal every June. NOT to be
50 d In Your Pocket


An artisan bakery, caf and restaurant all rolled into one. Slick,
raw and modern rustic interior with a slightly more upmarket
clientele than the other OFF venues, we lost count of the little
Polo player logos on customers clothing! Very reasonably
priced fresh and colourful fare, including a range of trendy
sandwiches, salads, burgers and steaks. A few one-pot curry
dishes are also available although purists may well have a
seizure when it arrives at their table with a ciabatta instead
of a naan! Waiting staff were stressed, overworked and
appeared to have given up the ghost. The kids play corner is
a nice touch.QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 42
672 80 01, www.drukarniaoff.com.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00,
Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. (15-79z). T6UGSW
Its not often that one ventures into an eatery in Poland
at 17:00 and has to squeeze in at the bar because every
table is occupied, but that was exactly the case at MITMI
(pronounced Meat Me). The Rib Eye Steak and the Beef
Cheeks in Porto sauce are the stars of the menu here,
and although not a burger bar, the locals accuse their
juicy patties of being the best in town. The drinks list is
as long as an orangutans arm and includes a few good
ciders. In keeping with many OFF venues, MITMI features
an attractive semi-industrial interior with lots of raw
brickwork, and metal lamps that you may have already
seen elsewhere. Gold stars to the attentive staff, who kept
the whole show running smoothly even though the place
was mobbed.QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48)
508 52 35 66. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat
10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (25-50z). 6UGW
Theres a strong sense of being a place to be seen when it
comes to Spdzielnia, and with good reason. The missmatched design components blend seamlessly to create a
lovely space complete with a cozy kids corner. Bury your head

Photo by Bartek Matyjas


Off Piotrkowska
in the wrapping paper menu and dig into the grub on offer
which is a range of snacky appetizers, salads galore, mains
and even a separate pizza menu. Try the salmon marinated
in bourbon served with a celeriac and kale puree. Its also a
great place to just have beer and do what the crowds do,
watch the world go by with a stiff upper lip. There is no
denying that Spdzielnia is an institution when it comes to
ds bohemian scene. Youll see what we mean.QC6, ul.
Piotrkowskiej 138/140, tel. (+48) 42 255 70 45, wwww.
spoldzielnia-lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (20-50z). T6GSW
Adhering to the no compromise whitewashed, white tiled,
bleached wood spacious and airy look. Tari Bari is popular
with the quiet, arty crowd and there seems to be a lot of
deep soul searching, beard stroking and adjustment of Raybans going on. Its a great place for folks who dont like to
feel like they are eating and drinking in a Tokyo underground
train during rush hour. During our visit the calmness was
emphasised by some of the quietest plinky-plonky ambient
background music known to mankind. Their menu changes
daily and features fish, seafood, meat dishes and pizza
please all kinds of special theme menus. Full marks to the
barmaid who listened intently to the precise and exacting
espresso demands of yours truly and then produced
perfection!QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 728
50 73 23. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun
13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. (15-47z). T6GW

Unpretentious and care-free, Spaleni Socem (Burnt By the
Sun) has a great Kreuzberg feel to it. The industrial fixtures
and fittings were bought from one of the local textile mills
and installed to create a genuine factory feel to the bar. The
bar itself is made up from a huge workshop chest of drawers
and the wall murals, by local art star Jan Jubaal Wasiski, are
a contemporary take on the realist paintings of 19th century
Polish artist Jzef Chemoski. The have new cocktails on
offer and the beer menu includes a range of d Brewery
electric soups. In the summer months you can sprawl out on
the outdoor palette-built platform and really get burnt by
the sun!QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 721 29
87 33. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Mon, Wed, Sun 15:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. 6GW

Dom is so new they were still shifting furniture around when
we paid the entrance fee for the evenings latest DJ. The club
itself looks like squatters have taken over an empty industrial
space: its nothing but concrete, a simple bar in an open
room. The sparseness here works; the focus is on the rotating
DJs (we got to see the hilariously named Hungry Hungry
Models) and nothing more.QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140.
Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. UEGW

Photo by Bartek Matyjas

OFF, as it stands, really does have something for everyone.
This LGBT pub and sauna has been around in various guises
and revamps since 1999. It features regular drag shows,
karaoke and a whole host of specialist nights and parties for
those who know what they want and aint afraid of finding
it. The sauna room features the likes of naked and bear
events. We cant think of anything more harrowing than
sharing a sauna with a bear, unless its sharing a duck pond
with a shark.QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 140, tel. (+48) 662
327 144, www.ganimedes.net. Pub open 20:00 - 04:00.
Sauna open 15:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. X
We like Mebloteka very much indeed, with its laid back hodge
podge of mismatched 1970s tables and chairs, a gallery and
a design shop all battling it out for a bit of space amongst the
chattering and excitable clientele. As well as being popular
with the locals it also attracts lots of foreigners who live in the
city and the number of languages overheard being spoken
by the customers makes for a great international atmosphere
in the heart of d. Cakes, coffees, juices and a short menu
of mainly salads are available but be sure to check out the
small brewery beers on offer, including the all-natural Browar
Zamkowy beers from Silesia. Go easy on the booze though,
as you WILL end up buying most of the cool stuff from the
design shop.QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 504
34 40 32. Open 13:00 - 24:00. GW

Way back in 2008 Justyna Burzyska and Maciej
Lebiedowicz started sharing their love of PRL-era design
and typography on their blog. Interest blossomed and soon
they began producing limited edition t-shirts which sold
like hot pierogi! The obvious next step was to set up shop.
The range of funky goods and items expanded to include
badges, belts, bags, scarves and hats aimed primarily at the
young and arty hipster set. Well designed, smart and funny,
all the products make for great and very affordable presents
from some top d designers. The name, Pan tu nie sta
(You werent standing here, sir), is a comic reference to a
regularly used phrase for queue barging during the martial
law period of the early 80s.QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140,
tel. (+48) 42 257 28 32, www.pantuniestal.com. Open
12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.
January - April 2016


Freedom Square is the gateway to ds main thoroughfare.

d Sightseeing

Essential d
The industrialist d is most famous for however is
none other than Izrael Poznaski, and his palace (B-1, ul.
Ogrodowa 15) is now home to the Museum of the City
of d - an unmissable chase through the history of
the city, as well as a medley of items and artworks that
once belonged to Poznaski. His factory has since been
developed into the Manufaktura shopping and leisure
complex, and its here youll find the official museum of the
site (B-1, ul. J. Karskiego 5). Poznaski was Jewish by birth
and you can visit his fearsome mausoleum (the biggest
Jewish tomb in the world) at Europes largest Jewish
cemetery (G-2, ul. Bracka/ul. Zmienna). Founded in 1892

Piotrkowska street

Most trips to d will either start, end or focus on one

street in particular: ulica Piotrkowska (C-2/7). Measuring
a little under five kilometres, it ranks as Europes longest
pedestrian street and is lined with restaurants, beer
gardens, hot-dog stands, and a mix of neorenaissance and
art nouveau buildings; some in chronic disrepair, others
restored to their former glory. Starting at the Tadeusz
Kociusko statue the street stretches southwards with
crews of all-year-round rickshaws (5z from end to end)
spiriting travellers to the destination of choice.
It may seem unlikely but d is also Polands answer
to Tinseltown. Stop sniggering at the back, having
produced directors like Wajda, Polaski and Kielowski
the Polish Hollywood has made an undeniable impact
on world cinema. Opened in 1986 and housed inside
Karol Scheiblers extraordinary 19th-century palace, the
Museum of Cinematography (G-4, Pl. Zwycistwa 1)
offers visitor two indulgences in one. The museum itself
offers a really well presented history of Polish cinema and
takes plenty of hats off to the multitude of Polish film greats
whove studied in the city and who all went on to greater
things as well as numerous changing exhibitions. This is the
only museum of its kind in Poland, and though extremely
badly signposted, it represents a rewarding experience for
fans of Polish cinema. Another place inexorably linked with
Scheibler is the Ksiy Myn Residence (also known as
Edward Herbst Palace, H-4, ul. Przdzalniana 72). Though
currently the residence
is closed for renovation,
across the street you can
see Scheiblers enormous
factory, Ksiy Myn,
which opened in 1854
and was soon leaving
the competition behind.
Once housing 70,000
spindles and the first
private gasworks in the
city a superb museum
documenting these times
now survives in a former
Museum of the Factory in
workers tenement.

Jewish Cemetery

Photo courtesy of d City Council

visitors can view over 180,000 tombs. d is famous for

its Jewish heritage, though this was all but wiped out in
WWII when the city became the home of the notorious
Litzmannstadt Ghetto. Over 230,000 Jews were confined
here, with over 200,000 eventually transferred to death
camps. Jews were transferred to gas chambers from
Radegast Station, and today visitors can view three cattle
trucks that have since been preserved. But the suffering was
by no means exclusive to Jews, as a visit to Radogoszcz
Prison proves (F-2, ul. Zgierska 147). Formerly a factory this
brick building was transformed by the Nazis into a prison
holding Polish socialists and intelligentsia. The exhibition
offers a disturbing look at life under occupation, as does
the Museum of the Tradition of Independence (A-2,
ul. Gdaska 13). A visit to this former tsarist prison offers
a chronological journey through the misfortunes d has
suffered while being under the control of Imperial Russia,
Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union.

Plac Wolnoci

Photo by Kozowski, Kaczmarkiewicz

January - April 2016


The citys Roman Catholic Cathedral is the biggest church
in d. A true Gothic masterpiece it was built between
1901 and 1912 by the famous d builders Wende &
Zarske from original drawings supposedly supplied by the
Berlin architect, Emil Zillmann. Styled along the lines of a
typical medieval cathedral with three aisles, transept, choir,
ambulatory and Lady Chapel, the interior is famous for being
rather severe. Damaged by a fire in 1971, the Cathedral has
been painstakingly restored including the addition of a new
roof supported by modern steel trusses. On the Chancerys
side find a small Cenotaph dedicated to the Unknown
Soldier, and on the opposite side a monument to Father
Skorupka, a Roman Catholic priest who is believed to have
made a great contribution to the countrys victory over the
Bolsheviks in 1920.QG4, ul. Piotrkowska 265, tel. (+48)
42 636 03 83, www.katedra.lodz.pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00,
Sun 07:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please.
Built to replace St Josephs on Kocielny Square between
1888-97, this vast neo-Gothic red brick beauty features some
remarkable altars including the superb main altar that includes
a triptych of the Ascension of the Blessed Virgin Mary dating
from 1655, and some of the loveliest examples of stained glass
in Poland. The famous Auschwitz nurse Stanisawa Leszczyska
is buried here in the crypt, and at the back find the tomb of
a certain Mr. Wyszynski, dated 1822 and the only thing left
from the oldest cemetery in d.QH3, ul. Kocielna 8/10,
tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37, www.mariacka-lodz.com.pl. Open
during mass only or by prior arrangement.

- and the building was moved piece by piece overnight by

local factory workers to its present location in 1888, where
it was consecrated by the Bishop of Warsaw as St. Josephs.
As a result the church is the oldest and most humble house
of worship in the city and possesses just one nave, a shingle
roof and a tiny steeple. The churchs interior has recently
undergone an impressive renovation and is worth a peek
inside. Of particular interest is the neo-Baroque main altar,
paid for somewhat surprisingly by the Jewish factory owner
Israel Poznaski. The free-standing bell tower, depending
on whom you wish to believe, either dates from the 18th
century and along with the church is the only pre-19th
century building in the city, or was built from concrete in
1922. If the latter, then it has since been clad in wood.QB2,
ul. Ogrodowa 22, tel. (+48) 42 633 76 06, www.jozef.org.
pl. Open during mass and by prior arrangement only.

Unveiled on June 10, 2006, heres yet another work
from the hand of Marcel Szytenchelm. Melded from
bronze this number depicts Stefan Jaracz (1883-1945), a
distinguished star of the Polish stage. For years he served
Warsaws Ateneum Theatre as director, as well as being a
bit of a name in the theatres of d. He survived wartime
imprisonment in Auschwitz only to die months after
liberation in 1945. This monument sees our man sat on a
theatre chair, with three vacant spots next to him for the
benefit of those whove just trekked it up Piotrkowska.
QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 152.

One of two Orthodox churches in the city, the domed
neo-Byzantine St. Alexander Nevsky is the most interesting
of the pair and serves as an official cathedral of the
d-Pozna Bishop. Said to have been designed by the
official city architect Hilary Majewski between 1881 and
1884 as a gift from ds industrialists to the Orthodox
community, the church has many ornate elevations and a
breathtakingly rich interior featuring iconostasis made in St.
Petersburg.QD4, ul. Kiliskiego 56, tel. (+48) 42 633 41
69, www.cerkiewlodz.pl. Open by prior arrangement or
by attending the 10:00 service on Sundays.
Made from larch wood, this diminutive church stands in stark
contrast to the hulking brick behemoth Manufaktura across
the street. This small church was built between 1765-68 and
was originally situated in Kocielny Square under the name
the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
As the city boomed so did the congregation, which grew
to 6,000 members when it was decided that a larger brick
church was needed as replacement. Bishop Jan Siemiec
decided to move the wooden church to its current spot on
Ogrodowa - at the time home to an abandoned cemetery
54 d In Your Pocket

Orthodox Church

Photo by Bartek Matyjas


d-born Julian Tuwim (1894 - 1953) was a Jewish
writer and poet who studied law and philosophy at
Warsaw University and was the co-founder and leader
of the Skamander group in 1919. A major figure in
Polish literature, best remembered for his contribution
to childrens literature, Wojciech Gryniewiczs comical
statue dates from 1999, and was based on a design by
Marcel Szytenchelm - it was to be the first of many statues
of eminent citizens to be unveiled on Piotrkowska. A
favourite meeting spot, children like to sit on his lap and
its considered good luck for lovers to rub his nose.QC5,
ul. Piotrkowska 104.
What started off as a novelty has now turned into a
downright obsession with monuments. One of the
latest to appear on the streets is a one metre, sixty
kilo bronze bear. Unveiled on October 24, 2009, this
little fella is Mi Uszatek, a fictional bear whose been
entertaining Polish kids since 1957. Complete with
trademark floppy ear were warned the bear is soon to
be joined by other kids favourites, including a Moomin
and something called Pik Pok the Penguin.QC5, ul.
Piotrkowska 87.
Designed by Kazimierz Karpiski this statue is typical of
70s Polish art, and commemorates the 1905 industrial
insurrection against Imperial Russia. Down with the
bourgeois pigs etc. Read more about the doomed rebellion
in our box on the 1905 Revolution.QPark Pisudskiego
Unveiled on June 4, 2000 to coincide with the two
thousand years of Christianity celebrations and 80
years of the d diocese, Krystyna Fadyga-Solskas
2.2m bronze and granite sculpture shows John Paul II
as a much younger man, a deliberate illusion referring
to his visit to the city in 1987. The three granite blocks
hes standing on symbolise the three millennia between
ourselves and the birth of Christ.QH4, Pl. Katedralny
im. Jana Pawa II.
Dominating the north end of Piotrkowska stands the
towering figure of Polands most celebrated revolutionary.
As the driving force behind the 1794 insurrection against
foreign rule Tadeusz Kociuszkos finest moment came in
the Battle of Racawica where his band of peasant soldiers
scored a historic win over the Russian army. His life also
saw him fight with distinction in the American War of
Independence, and his work on American fortifications
made a significant contribution to victories over the
British at Saratoga and Ticonderoga. The statue, designed
by Mieczysaw Lubelski, was erected in 1930, but was
demolished in 1939 by occupying Wehrmacht forces. It was
rebuilt in 1960.QC2, Pl. Wolnoci.

City tours available upon request for individuals and
groups.QD7, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel.
(+48) 535 09 20 86, www.fabricum.pl. Office open
09:00 - 17:00 and you can call until 20:00.
SOCIETYQD7, ul. Wigury 12a, tel. (+48) 42 636
87 64, www.lodz.pttk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Guides: English, German, Russian, French,
Spain. 360z/5hrs.
And so, the Segway makes it to d. Yet while its a
candidate for the most twittish looking transport
contraption ever invented, theres no doubt these two
wheel weirdoes are rollicking good fun. Better still, go
with a guide (you need to call in advance) and you get
the added benefit of learning about d in a series
of languages: English, German, Italian, Spanish etc.
Tours take place in winter, weather depending.QC4,
ul. Strykowska 133, tel. (+48) 42 630 30 38, www.
segway-tours.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Sat, Sun open
by prior arrangement.

Brand new offices in the centre of Piotrkowska
provided by the local government. The Englishspeaking staff will provide you with maps and guides
in a number of different languages. An Internet
terminal offers access to d tourism sites, though
folks toting their laptops can access free wi-fi.QC5,
ul. Piotrkowska 87, tel. (+48) 42 638 59 55, www.
cit.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 15:00.
At last, a tourist info point bang in the station - find
all the expected services as well as pamphlets, In Your
Pocket, helpful advice, maps and postcards.QF4, ul.
Karolewska 55 (PKP d Kaliska), tel. (+48) 42 205
42 00, www.cit.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 15:00.
Tourist information is available at the heart of the
Manufaktura complex in a specially built hut. Find
guides, audio guides, maps, souvenirs and lots of
information about d and the region from friendly
English-speaking staff.QA1, ul. Drewnowska 58
(Rynek), tel. (+48) 695 13 11 13, www.lodzkie.travel.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
January - April 2016


Appearing in September 2007 Marcel Szytenchelms latest
creation is the rather curious figure of a bloke climbing a
ladder to fit a bulb onto a streetlight. Weighing more than
a tonne the monument was unveiled to coincide with the
100th anniversary of the first electric streetlight to appear
in the city. Replacing the old gas fired streetlamps, ds
first electric light was once found on this very spot, right
outside what was in those days regarded as the most
exclusive shop in town - the American Diamant Palace.
QC3, ul. Piotrkowska 37.

alongside a German spiritualist, before once again joining a

theatre group. The publication of his work Korespondencje in
1892 saw another career turn and he traveled to Warsaw to
pursue a life of writing. Over the following years he became
one of Polands most prolific and admired writers, and his
book Chopi beat the likes of Mann, Hardy and Gorky to claim
the Nobel Prize. Like his book Ziemia Obiecana, Chopi is a
moral tale presented to a background of gritty, industrialage d. He died the following year in 1925. The statue
you see is yet another work credited to the prolific hand of
Marcel Szytenchelm and was unveiled in 2001.QC6, ul.
Piotrkowska 137.

This superb museum and gallery features a worthy modern
art exhibition - called Open Composition - courtesy of
progressive artists from a number of countries, including
Poland.QA3, ul. Wickowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 42 633 97
90, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits 10/5z
students under 26 pay just 1z. Thu is free for all exhibits.

d is generally believed to be the creation of three

visionary industrialists, celebrated here in a bronze statue
dating from 2002. The three men in question are the
Jewish philanthropist and industrialist Israel Poznaski
(1833-1900), Henryk Grohman (1862-1939), industrialist
and patron of the arts and Karol Schreiber, creator of the
citys extraordinary Ksiy Myn.QC3, ul. Piotrkowska 32.
Idiotic monuments have become de rigeur in d, so
heres one that actually merits its existence. Unveiled on
December 12, 2009, and depicting a Polish eagle rising
proudly above a set of bars, this 550,000 zoty monument
is dedicated to all those who died and suffered under
communism. Designed by Wojciech Gryniewicz, a
particular point of interest is the building it stands in front
of; under German occupation this high school was once
the seat of the local Gestapo, and from 1945 till 1956
operated as home of the internal security services.QE1,
Al. Karola Anstadta.
Polish writer and winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in
1924. Brought up in the town of Tuszyn, close to d, his
early life proved inauspicious, with his only formal certificate
of education being a qualification as a journeyman tailor.
Refusing to make use of such a skill he ran away from home to
join a traveling theatre, though financial practicalities forced
him to return to his family where he worked for a while as a
gateman at the railway crossing near Koluszki. The job failed to
grasp his imagination and he worked for a while as a medium
56 d In Your Pocket


To understand exactly what d is all about, and to really
get under the citys skin, a visit to the Textile Museum is a
good place to start. Although everything is displayed in
Polish only, the two floors of exhibition rooms containing a
mind-boggling array of steam-driven looms, fabric-printing
machines, contrasting recreations of how the workers and
their factory-owning bosses lived and worked, original
paintings of d in its 19th-century heyday, lace, rugs
and other paraphernalia connected to the textile industry
speak volumes about the city thats often referred to as the
Manchester of Poland. The icing on the cake: the museum
is housed inside Ludwig Geyers mammoth 19th-century
White Factory, an extraordinary building worthy of a journey
in itself.QG4, ul. Piotrkowska 282, tel. (+48) 42 683 26
84, www.muzeumwlokiennictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Thu 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
10/6z. Sat free for permanent exibitions. UN
Established in 1931 and one of the leading research
institutions of its kind in the country, this charming little
museum is packed with intricately carved swords and
muskets, archaeological finds from Palaeolithic Poland
including flint axes, pots and the customary skeleton in
a glass case, charming models of river settlements from
the 3rd century and recreations of 19th-century peasant
houses. If the idea of being followed by the staff doesnt
worry you in the least then this museum cant come
recommended highly enough.QC2, Pl. Wolnoci 14,
tel. (+48) 42 632 84 40, www.maie.lodz.pl. Open 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 9/6z, Tue free.

A typically run of the mill Polish museum that wouldnt look
out of place in a small town anywhere in the country, find the
usual collection of stuffed birds and rocks not very thoughtfully
presented and illustrated in Polish only. Belonging to the
university, theres little reason to drop by here unless youre a
fan of this kind of thing or if youre in the park and the heavens
open.QE5, ul. Kiliskiego 101 (Sienkiewicz Park), tel. (+48)
42 665 54 90, www.biol.uni.lodz.pl/muzeum. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1
hour before closing, Sat and Sun 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 5/3z, Thu free. N
Inside the breathtaking Neo-Baroque former residence
of d manufacturer Izrael Kalmanowicz Poznaski, this
museum within a museum, dedicated to the relatively short
life and times of Polands second city from the end of the
19th century to the outbreak of WWII, knocks you out from
the moment you walk through the front door. Jammed full
of exhibits tracing the history, people, culture and ups and
downs of the city, find recreations of daily life from kitchen
interiors to sections of streets. There are many fine examples
of silverware and porcelain too, and rooms dedicated to
many of the citys former inhabitants, including ds
unofficial Rubinstein museum (the only one in the world),
giving over several rooms to the legendary Jewish pianist.
Once this was the only section with English descriptions,
but more and more sections are seeing translations added.
The Jewish theme is admirably represented and includes
a multimedia tribute to Jan Karski, the envoy of Polands
underground authorities who first alerted the West to
the Holocaust. Thoroughly recommended.QB1, ul.
Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeumlodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 14:00
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri. Opening hours
are subject to change so consult their website for up to
date changes. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 9/5z, admission to Galeria Mistrzw Polskich
exhibit 10/5z, combined tickets 15/8z, temporary
exhibits only 5/3z. Sun free. N
Set inside a former Tsarist prison your tour begins on the
ground floor, where a walk around the former cells allows
visitors to glimpse depressing sights like huge, rusty restraints,
a pitch-black isolation cell and playing cards and chess
sets produced by the inmates. From there the museum is
a chronological journey on the Roads to Independence
experienced in the city, covering the years 1791-1921. The
1905 workers revolution is covered in detail, with prisoners
letters and presses used to print inflammatory leaflets all
on display. There is a new exhibition entitled The Prison on
Duga St. In d from 1885-1953. Hugely interesting, though
the paucity of English-language translations is guaranteed
to frustrate.QA2, ul. Gdaska 13, tel. (+48) 42 632 71 12,
www.muzeumtradycji.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Fri. Admission free.

Tucked behind the Central Museum of Textiles is a unique
open-air museum dedicated to the wooden architecture
that dominated the streets of d in its early years. Until
roughly 1830 almost every structure built was wooden, and
many of those were created to house the influx of workers
needed for the citys booming manufacturers (often the
homes included workshops where tradespeople like
weavers could work). Wood fell out of favour in the 1860s
and 1870s as more homes began to be built out of brick,
and their numbers continued to dwindle as many wood
buildings were destroyed during World War II. Today the
museum features several examples of the eras architecture,
including a church, a summer villa, a one-story house
for workers, a wooden tram stop and several craftsmen
houses. The museum is arranged along two streets that
include lamps and street signs to add to the authenticity.
The two standouts are the elaborate villa, which was
moved to the site from Ruda Pabianicka (a village that was
absorbed by Lodz) and the church, which was erected
between 1846-1848 and moved from Nowosolna (also a
village that became part of Lodz). A great place to begin
your tour - which is self-guided - is at the weavers house,
which has been fully kitted out with period furniture and
accessories down to the chamber pot beneath the bed,
and offers English descriptions of what life was like for the
citys labourers. If visiting in the winter months, bear in
mind that not every building will available to view.QG4,
ul. Piotrkowska 282 (entrance from ul. Milionowa), tel.
(+48) 42 683 26 84, www.muzeumwlokiennictwa.pl.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free except for house
number 6, which is included in the price of a Museum
of Textiles ticket. N

The Lamp Man

Photo by Bartek Matyjas

January - April 2016


One of the great unsung oddities of d, the Sports and
Tourism Museum of the City of d has been attracting
the accidental visitor since 1982, amusing those who enter
with its collection of Olympic medals, funny bikes, football
pennants and trophies - as well as entertaining team
photos featuring some extraordinary moustaches.QG4,
ul. Ksidza Skorupki 21, tel. (+48) 42 636 40 53, www.
muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Admission 4/2z. N

Walking around downtown d you would never guess
that Europes largest urban park can be found north of the
city. The name of the forest is directly related to an 11th
century settlement of the same name. Occupying an area
of 1,250 hectares the forest features countless walking and
cycling trails, 542 different plants and 101 types of tree,
predominantly oak, spruce and birch. The forest was used as
a base for insurgents during the 1863 rising against Imperial
Russia, while WWII saw it double as site of mass execution by
the Nazis. The North West of the forest houses an 18th century
Franciscan monastery, primarily known for its painting of St
Anthony, which is claimed to have healing properties.
Originally unveiled in 1874 the park you see bordering
the train station was initially designed by Hilary Majewski,
the architect most associated with the city. Extensively
remodeled in 1934 the park was formerly known as Park
Kolejowy, and then Aleksandrowski, before acquiring
its current name in the 1960s. Named to honour one of
Polands most eminent composers a bust of Stanisaw
Moniuszko stands in what is otherwise a rather weary
looking overgrown park.QD/E4, ul. Kiliskiego, ul.
Skadowa, ul. Narutowicza.
Founded in 1896 and opened in 1899, Sienkiewicz Park
is one of the oldest parks in d. At just 5.2ha there are
plenty of things to see and do in it. The park is also the
home to the Museum of Natural History and the highly
recommended Centre for the Propagation of Art.QD5, ul.
Kiliskiego, ul. Sienkiewicza, ul. Tuwima.

Standing in the shadow of the Kociuszko statue on
pl. Wolnoci (right in front of Caf Wiedeska) is ds
favourite fountain. Originally constructed in the 1930s
by students from the local arts school the fountain was
allowed to fall into disrepair in the post-war years. The
renovated version was finally unveiled in July, 2004, and
its proximity to the nearby church make it a favoured
backdrop for newlyweds to pose in front of. Its moniker, The
58 d In Your Pocket

Fountain of Love, stems from the legend that if two lovers

wash their faces in its water their love will be eternal. The
renovation was part of a project titled Fountains for d the idea of Marek Pyka, president of the local water board
- and plans have been hatched to build or renovate another
dozen fountains within the city limits.QC2, Pl. Wolnoci.
On the face of it theres very little to see in ds old
town square - for a start its grey, barren and not old in
the slightest. The buildings you see in front of it are Stalinera finest, and went up right after the war. Indeed, the
grandiose squares of Krakw and Warsaw have little to
fear, but to ignore it entirely would be a schoolboy error.
Firstly, and rather obviously, the square didnt always look
like this. Before the war this was the heart of what was a
thriving Jewish community, and in its heyday was home to
a timber town hall and a small lake on the southern end.
Houses of sturdier material were added in the 19th century,
and in the 20th century the western front was occupied by
market stalls designed by the eminent architect of the time,
Marconi, and the square was deemed sufficiently upmarket
for one of Izrael Poznaskis sons to take up quarters there.
When WWII broke out it formed the very southern edge
of the ghetto, and a wooden bridge was added over ul.
Nowomiejska to link the square with the western side of
the ghetto. Following the war the communists decided
to get shot of the old buildings demolished everything in
the sight. The architect in charge of the project was Ryszard
Karlowicz, and he was under orders to follow the ideals of
Socialist Realism - a severe artistic style pegged to strict
guidelines from a Soviet masterplan. He didnt disappoint,
coming up with a network of uniform looking streets with
a simple classicist form that were designed to honour both
patriotic and socialist ideals. The square was later topped off
in 1964 with a statue of commie agitator Julian Marchlewski,
though that fell victim to the iconoclastic fury that erupted
once the communists were booted out. Instead, today
youll find a memorial stone in its place, added in 1998 to
mark the 575th anniversary of the first recorded mention
of d. While it might look a bit bleak and boring the area
is certainly well worth a snoop - see if you can spot the
hammer and sickle on on ul. Podrzeczna.QC1.
Completely renovated in 2003 and now the most modern
example of its kind in Poland, the quirky Palm House
is a delight for green-fingered jungle types. One of the
warmest and most relaxing places to visit during the
winter, exhibits include 20 very precious palm trees and
plants that have been growing here for 130 years. Perhaps
strangest of all is the experience you feel when you look up
and see bananas growing. Mind out for the meat-eating
plants too, and be sure to leave your dog at home.QG4,
Al. Pisudskiego 61 (Park rdliska 1), tel. (+48) 42 674
96 65, www.botaniczny.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. From April open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
8/4z. N

The late 1960s saw several anti-zionist actions launched by
the government, and as a result the school lost several of its
rising stars in the Jewish exodus that followed - including
rector Jerzy Toeplitz, who would later become the cofounder of Australias first film school. The film school soon
regained its balance however, and has since produced
luminaries such as Krzysztof Kielowski, cameraman
Slawomir Idziak and Krzysztof Zanussi.

Museum of Cinematography

Archiwum UM

It may seem unlikely but d is Polands answer to

Tinseltown. Stop sniggering at the back: having produced
directors like Wajda, Polaski and Kielowski the Polish
Hollywood has made an undeniable impact on world

The story starts in 1948, with the foundation of the National
Film School. With Warsaw lying in ruins the major theatres,
opera and theatre groups, and other miscellaneous artistes
found themselves decamping to the nearest major city:
d. With Polands principal actors, performers and
directors attracted to the city it was only natural to base the
film school in this town.
From its early beginnings the school had two distinct
departments: film directing and cinematography. Initially
the curriculum was limited to simple group productions,
but soon films directed by individuals started to become
the norm, all filmed using 35mm industry standard
cameras. Among the first batch of students were Andrzej
Munk and Andrzej Wajda, the latter scooping an Oscar
in 2000 for his contribution to film. In an era dominated
by Big Brother is Watching-style paranoia the school
became a haven for the avant-garde and the small
screening rooms would regularly pack out not just with
students, but the rank and file proles looking to enjoy
the latest European cinema. It was in this liberal climate
that the school also proved to be the first place in Poland
to host jazz jam sessions, officially outlawed by the
The Wajda generation would go on to shape Polish film,
with a series of edgy films taking a heavy influence from
the Italian neo-realists. The films produced in the late
1950s were in direct opposition to official guidelines, and
films like Wajdas Ashes and Diamonds used screen talents
like Zbyszek Cybulski, a charismatic, hotwire actor often
labelled the Polish James Dean. Roman Polaski entered
the school in 1954, and four years later propelled the school
to international fame when he won an award at Brussels
Expo 58 for his film Two Men and a Cupboard. Alas the
golden years soon proved to be numbered.

Established in 1993 the Camerimage Festival - honouring the

art of cinematography - further cemented the schools place
in filmlore, with gold, silver and bronze frogs awarded for
feature films, and tadpoles to students. In the past the festival
has attracted household names such as Oliver Stone, Peter
Weir and Val Kilmer, and it was during a visit to this festival
that David Lynch discovered a passion for the city. However,
and STOP PRESS on this bombshell, after years of international
success the city has announced that it has lost the festival to
the itsy town of Bydgoszcz, not so much a bitter blow as an
axe to the face. Still, even so, film buffs have two points of
interest: firstly the Museum of Cinematography and secondly
the d Walk of Fame; a collection of star shaped plaques
right outside the Grand Hotel on Piotrkowska honouring the
greatest talents in Polish cinema.

There isnt much you can do other than stand outside the
gates and gawk, but the Leon Schiller National Higher
School of Film, Television and Theatre is where Hollyd
was born, and since its right next door to the Museum of
Cinematography its worth a casual walk past. Students still
stream in and out of the campus, and you might catch a
glimpse of the next Kielowski.QG4, ul. Targowa 61/63,
tel. (+48) 42 634 58 00, www.filmschool.lodz.pl.
Borrowing the idea from the Hollywood Walk of Fame,
d has created its own strip of sidewalk featuring starshaped plaques honoring the best of Polish cinema (can
a giant Hollywoodesque d sign be far off?). The stars
are on either side of Piotrkowska right outside the Grand
Hotel and include names like Roman Polaski, Jerzy
Kawalerowicz and Pola Negri.QC4, ul. Piotrkowska.
Opened in 1986 and housed inside Karol Scheiblers
extraordinary 19th-century palace, the Cinematography
Museum offers visitor two indulgences in one. The
museum itself offers a really well presented history of
Polish cinema and takes plenty of hats off to the multitude
of Polish film greats whove studied in the city and who all
went on to greater things, as well as numerous changing
exhibitions. This is the only museum of its kind in Poland,
and though extremely badly signposted (dont be surprised
to find yourself directed to blind alleys or opening secret
doors to reveal private offices), it represents a rewarding
January - April 2016


The late Polish filmmaker Krzysztof Kielowski (19411996) is known and respected the world over as a maker
of great feature films. A much lesser known fact is that
the chain-smoking director of such macabre works as A
Short Film About Killing and the acclaimed Three Colours
trilogy started his career churning out a series of gritty
and often surprisingly charming documentaries, several
of which have recently been released on a fine, twin
DVD box set. Born in German-occupied Warsaw, the
young Kielowski suffered an itinerant childhood at the
hands of a sick father. After several failed attempts at
entering the prestigious film school in the industrial city
of d, Kielowski was eventually granted a place in
1965. Dabbling in both fiction and documentary during
his studies, Kielowski graduated a dedicated factual
filmmaker in 1968. His diploma film, the 17-minute
black and white Z Miasta odzi (From the City of d),
is the first of the 13 films on the DVD. Set partly inside
one of ds large textile factories as well as in the citys
numerous streets and parks, the film shines a peculiar
and enchanting light on daily life in the city. Opening
with an exemplary young girl worker clambering on a
table to lead the daily factory exercises, Z Miasta odzi
splices together various images of d with ordinary
scenes from the factory floor in which the filmmaker
reveals the warmth and compassion behind a humdrum
industrial existence. Kielowski rapidly found a home at
the Warsaw Documentary Film Studios, and was soon
testing the limits of Socialist film censorship. Poking
his camera into the previously unrecorded worlds of
eccentrics, institutions and incompetent bureaucracies,
his protagonists included disillusioned bricklayers,
surgeons, teenage parents, blind war veterans and, in
what rates as one of the most disturbing yet hilarious
documentaries ever made, a night porter (From a
Night Porters Point of View, 1977). In the latter the
camera follows its sadistic subject about his daily life
as he harasses everyone he comes in contact with,
from scolding young lovers in the park to checking
the permits of a group of harmless fishermen. A clever
metaphor for the state intrusions and assaults of the
time, the director fought against and lost the broadcast
of the film on state television for fear of the reprisals it
might bring against its central character. Complete with
a booklet in English with background information about
the films, the selection may not be the best 13 of the
22 documentaries Kielowski made during his career
(the omission of his 1971 masterpiece Before the Rally
being the most obvious oversight), but as a record of
Poland at the time, and as a body of great work in its
own right theres nothing else that even touches this
truly remarkable DVD. Highly recommended. Krzysztof
Kielowski - Polska Szkoa Dokumentu, 4hrs, colour/
B&W, Polish with English subtitles. Available for 36z
in most larger branches of EMPiK.
60 d In Your Pocket

experience for fans of Polish cinema. The collection features

over 50,000 items including over 12,000 film posters, art
exhibits and projectors and camera equipment of every
kind. Standouts include the fotoplastikon, a giant drum-like
contraption popular in the early 20th century for showing
3D films (currently unavailable during repairs), and the
excellent exhibit devoted to animated photography
featuring plenty of vintage stop-motion characters and
accompanying clips. The newest exhibit in the permanent
collection is called Palace Full of Fairy Tales and is devoted
to the heros of Polish cult cartoon shorts and features
(Moomins, Reksio).
The palace itself is a dream, featuring room upon room of
delights, including the citys first electric lift, some beautiful
tiled stoves, a Turkish smoking room and many other treats
besides. Built in 1856 to serve as residence for industrialist
fat cat Karol Scheibler the palace contains interiors
designed in Venice, Berlin and Dresden, including ceramic
tiled stoves and dramatic oak panelling. Even if film is not
your scene, this place deserves visiting just to see how the
other half once lived. They offer guided tours in English
for 100 z and in Polish for 70z.QG4, Pl. Zwycistwa 1,
tel. (+48) 42 203 22 36, www.kinomuzeum.pl. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 10/7z. Tue free for permanent exhibits.

That grim-faced blockish statue you see standing by ul.
Piotrkowska 112 is Leon Schiller, or to give his full name,
Leon Schiller de Schidenfeld. Born in Krakw in 1887 he
graduated from Jagiellonian University with degrees in
philosophy and Polish Literature under his belt before
pursuing further academic titles at the Sorbonne in Paris.
Having cut his teeth as a singer in Krakws notoriously
rowdy Green Balloon Cabaret he was to go on to become
one of the most famous film and theatre directors of
pre-WWII Poland. In a career that took him across the
country with a variety of theatre groups he is particularly
famous for his staging of Adam Mickiewiczs masterpiece
Dziady in Warsaws Teatr Polski. Credited with directing
over 29 dramas and a dozen or so vaudeville productions
Schillers life predictably went wrong with the German
invasion of 1939. In revenge for the assassination of
the Polish actor and Gestapo agent Igo Sym, Schiller
was apprehended by the Nazis and held in Warsaws
infamous Pawiak Prison - of the 100,000 estimated Poles
who passed through the prisons gates only 3,000 are
understood to have survived the war. Schiller was one of
those survivors, thanks in no small part to his sister, who
paid a hefty ransom fee to ensure his release. Following
WWII he accepted the presidency of ds National
Drama School before finally passing away in 1954.QC5,
ul. Piotrkowska 112.

Jewish d

Photo: A. Wach, Courtesy of d City Council

By the time Hitler launched his depraved campaign to

expand Germanys borders the Jewish population of d
stood at 233,000 - approximately a third of the towns
inhabitants, and a figure only surpassed by the capital,
Warsaw. To trace the beginnings of ds Jewish heritage
one must go back to the mid-18th century, a time when
d was little more than a sleepy hamlet. A census
taken in 1793 noted the presence of eleven Jews out of
a population that numbered 190, a figure that was to rise
to 98 by 1809. It was to prove a key time for ds Jews,
with the towns first synagogue built that same year, and
a cemetery on ul. Rybna unveiled in 1811. Things were
moving fast, not just for the Jewish community but for the
town itself. Philosopher, writer and statesman Stanisaw
Staszic had long been campaigning to turn d into a
centre of manufacturing, and 1825 saw his ambitions
come to life with the opening of the first cotton mill. The
idea caught on, and within the next few years factories
were springing up across d like a rash of blackened
toadstools. Waves of migrants followed the money,
including German, Russian, and Portuguese workers. But
none of those groups matched the numbers of the Jews.
By the 1840s over one fifth of the citys population was
Jewish, and this would grow once more when in 1862 laws
requiring Jews to live in the north of the city were repealed.
Regardless, most Jews remained based around the Bauty
area where cultural and religious life thrived; in the years
leading up to the war d could count 80 prayer houses,
31 Jewish primary schools, at least five newspapers and
numerous theatre and exhibition spaces.
This world came crashing down on September 1,1939,
with the news that the Nazis had launched their invasion
of Poland. Within eight days the citys streets reverberated
with the sound of jackboots, the triumphant Nazis
greeted as heroes and liberators by the ethnic Germans
of d. Almost immediately the Nazis set about imposing
restrictions on the Jews: on September 18th a decree was
issued prohibiting the withdrawal of more than 250z per

week from bank accounts, and over the course of the next
month Jewish businesses were forcibly signed over to the
Germans. Persecution gathered pace following Himmlers
visit on October 28 - in the week that followed the citys
main artery, ulica Piotrkowska, was made off-limits to Jews,
and scores of intellectuals were rounded up before being
executed in the agiewniki Forest. Then, on November
9, the decision was taken to absorb d into the Reich,
thereby leaving it under the command of committed Nazi
Artur Greiser. The terror escalated yet further, and within
days synagogues were alight and bodies hanging in the
street. On November 14 a curfew was imposed on Jews,
and for the first time anywhere in the Third Reich Jews were
compelled to wear a Star of David on their arm - failure to
do so was punishable by death.
The New Year brought with it a fresh set of trials. On February
8, 1940, newspapers broke the news that Jews would be
resettled in a separate ghetto in Bauty. After two months of
transition the area was sealed on April 30, 1940, following
the completion of a barbed wire wall surrounding the area.
No one except a few authorised officials could get in or out,
and approaching the wall from either side brought instant
death from a guards bullet.
Conditions inside the ghetto were poor - Jews lived an
average 3.5 people to a room - though not nearly as bad
as in the smaller and more crowded Warsaw or Krakow
ghettos. Jews were also left more or less in peace for the
early months of the ghettos existence, after the Nazis
appointed Chaim Mordechai Rumkowski - a prominent
Jewish businessman - to run the ghetto on their behalf.
He was given the pompous title Judenlteste (Elder of the
Jews) and Rumkowski remains a controversial figure to this
day. For a start few people know why he in particular was
chosen by the Nazis to run the ghetto, and whispers seem
to indicate he either bought or scammed his way into the
position. Yet he began well: he tried to preserve as much
normality as possible, setting up schools, a bureaucracy,
printing ghetto money (which bore his image) and
January - April 2016


Jewish d
constructing a rudimentary sewage system. He also
convinced the Germans to provide raw materials for the
ghettos factories: the goods made at these factories were
then bartered back to the Germans in exchange for food.
Yet the food was never enough for the 230,000 ghetto
inhabitants, and people quickly began dying of malnutrition
and disease. When the Nazis dumped as many as 30,000
Jews from other parts of Poland here in the autumn of
1941 conditions became intolerable. Worse was to come,
however: in January 1942 deportations to the death
camps began. Over the next three years around 200,000
Jews left the ghetto for the death camps. As the years and
selections continued Rumkowski grew more maniacal; he
saw the only way for survival to be the creation of a tireless,
indispensable workforce. Those who couldnt work were
nothing but a drain on the meagre food reserves. And so it
was that Rumkowski entered folklore in 1942 for imploring
his people to surrender their children to the Germans:
A grievous blow has struck the ghetto. They are asking
us to give up the best we possess - the children and the
elderly. I was unworthy of having a child of my own, so
I gave the best years of my life to children. Ive lived and
breathed with children, I never imagined I would be
forced to deliver this sacrifice to the altar with my own
hands. In my old age, I must stretch out my hands and
beg: Brothers and sisters! Hand them over to me! Fathers
and mothers: Give me your children!
No other ghetto in the Third Reich survived as long as the
one in d, but ultimately Rumkowskis spurious efforts to
ensure survival were to prove futile. In May 1944 Heinrich
Himmler ordered the liquidation of the d Ghetto, and over
the course of the next few months the last 77,000 Jews were
loaded into cattle wagons and sent to the gas chambers of
Chemno, Nerem and Auschwitz. Rumkowski left on the
penultimate transport to Auschwitz, and according to some
accounts was burned alive in a crematorium by workers
who had recognized him. Historical records suggest that
between five to twelve thousand ghetto habitants survived
to see the end of the war.
Many Jews who survived the Holocaust descended on
d at the end of the war and a new, thriving community
sprang up. Though there were two major waves of statesponsored emigration to Israel (in 1948 and 1957-8) there
remains a thriving Jewish community of around 5,000
people in the city, primarily based around the synagogue
on ul. Pomorska 18 (D-2). Of all Polands cities, few have
been as understanding and remorseful as d when
dealing with the legacies of the Holocaust.
The d ghetto was one of the largest Jewish ghettos set
up in Nazi-controlled Europe. It stretched over much of the
north-central part of the city, comprising the area north of
Staromiejski Park (Old d), and out as far as the Jewish
Cemetery to the east of the city. The area was chosen to
host the ghetto as most of the citys Jews already lived in the
district; indeed - as opposed to Krakw or Warsaw - there
62 d In Your Pocket

was little swapping of homes that fell on the wrong side

of the wall between Jews and gentiles. The d Ghetto is
also commonly known as the Litzmannstadt Ghetto - on
May 5, 1940 the city of d was renamed Litzmannstadt
in honour of the German general who (unsuccessfully)
attempted to occupy d in World War I.
The area which once formed the ghetto is today covered
with Socialist Realist leftovers, as well as whole swathes of
buildings that seemingly havent seen a lick of paint since
the Germans left. Its a real rundown part of the city this, and
frankly youd be advised to keep the camera hidden and
a spring-loaded truncheon at hand. On the plus side, the
intrepid explorer will be rewarded by a moving trip back in
time. Filled with forgotten courtyards and derelict doorways,
its not hard to feel the ghosts of the past as you walk the
streets of ds now silent Jewish quarter. Before setting
off its worth bearing in mind a couple of points: firstly, you
will be covering a distance of approximately ten kilometres,
so its probably best not to attempt this in the middle of
summer with a computer bag strapped to you. Secondly, to
get the most out of the sites youll be passing, pick up a copy
of Joanna Podolskas Traces of the Litzmannstadt- Ghetto
(see Further Reading for details). Finally, while it is often
suggested to start at the Rynek before concluding your
tour at Radegast Station (the train station where Jews were
deported) - a logical route for those who wish to follow the
chronological history of the ghetto - its certainly not the
most practical. Radegast is in the middle of nowhere, so to
get the most out of your day we suggest taking a taxi first
to Radegast, and then following the trail all the way back to
the centre not vice versa.

Today we are building a bridge of memory and dialogue
over the decades of tragic forgetfulness.
Marek Belka, Prime Minister of Poland, 2004.
As with many Holocaust
sites across Eastern Europe,
Radegast Station - from
where as many 200,000 d
Jews left for the death camps
of Chemno and Auschwitz
- has only recently been
accorded the honour and
Photo: A. Wach, Courtesy of
d City Council
respect it deserves. It has
been thoughtfully restored as a place of remembrance,
and though it is a long walk from the centre of d, it is
well worth a visit. Three original Deutsche Reisebahn cattle
trucks stand poignantly at the stations platform with their
doors open, as if another trainload of Jews is imminent.
Though most visitors are tempted to enter the waggons,
almost none actually do. Elsewhere there are large signposts
- in the shape of headstones - denoting the destinations of
the trains which left here: Stutthof, Ravensbruck, Chemno,
Auschwitz. There are also plaques commemorating the

Jewish d
Jews of Vienna and Luxembourg, who were transported to
the death camps after transiting through the ghetto. The
plaque from the city of Vienna is suitably, simply repentant:
The city of Vienna commemorates its citizens in mourning
and in shame. There are now two permanent exhibitions
in the museum: Litzmannstad Getto 1940-1944 and Kufer
Rodziny Schwarz.QG2, Al. Pamici Ofiar Litzmannstadt
Getto 12, tel. (+48) 42 291 36 27, www.muzeumtradycji.
pl. Exhibits can be viewed 09:00 - 17:00; Wed, Thu 10:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri. For groups of 10
or more guided tours in English are 30z. Please book in
advance by calling 42 291 36 27 or 783 75 53 91.
The largest Jewish cemetery in Europe holds 180,000
graves, with many laid to rest inside ostentatious tombs
that are works of art themselves (including the biggest
Jewish mausoleum which belongs to Israel Poznaski).
Less ceremonious was the burial of the 45,000 or so Jews
who died in the ghetto - youll find them interred in the
so-called Ghetto Field in the south of the cemetery. This
is where the clean-up squad of around 800 Jews who had
remained to clear the ghetto were forced to dig their own
graves. The Nazis, surprised by the speed of the Soviet
advance, didnt have time to carry out the execution, and
the empty graves have been left as eerie reminder.QG2,
ul. Bracka/ul. Zmienna. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 6z, free first Sunday of every month.
The ghetto was also home
to a separate camp for Polish
children, and this was located
on ul. Przemysowa. Today
only a former admin building
remains at number 34,
though a large memorial can
also be spotted if you carry
on walking straight into Park
Szarych Szeregw. Depicting
an emaciated figure staring
through a cracked white heart, the monument is dedicated
to the 1,600 children who were processed through the
camp once found on these grounds. Beatings and hard
labour were standard here, and it is estimated that over
130 children died while in custody, many due to starvation.
QG2, Park im. Szarych Szeregw.
As bad as conditions were elsewhere in the ghetto its
commonly accepted that no one had it worse than the
gypsies. In early November some 5,007 Roma and Sinti
people were herded into a separate ghetto entered from
ul. Wojska Polskiego and confined in revolting conditions.
On January 12, 1942, the camp was liquidated and all
remaining habitants were transported to death camps. To
this day little is known of what happened inside, though a
quote from ghetto survivor Sara Zyskind says enough: The

two men who were first to enter that Gypsy camp could not
recover for a long time from the shock they experienced
reading the inscriptions in German left by the Gypsies on
the walls.QG3, ul. Wojska Polskiego 84.
The oldest synagogue in the city was built between
1895 and 1900 by the Reigher family foundation and
only survived the Second World War because it was used
for storing salt. The war did unfortunately destroy the
interior as well as an allegedly lovely Star of David stainedglass window. A plaque on the east wall commemorates
the synagogues founder who starved to death in the
d ghetto. The Nissenbaum and Lauder foundations
renovated the shrine in 1989. Religious services are no
longer held here, but can be attended at the synagogue
on ul. Pomorska 18 (C-2).QD2, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 28,
tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www.jewishlodz.org.pl. Open by
prior arrangement with Jewish Community.
The Decalogue Monument
is appropriately placed in
Staromiejski Park at the
point where two former
synagogues were located:
Alte Szil and Old Synagogue.
Unveiled in 1995, it shows
Photo: A. Wach, Courtesy of
Moses holding the tablet
d City Council
of the Ten Commandents
and was designed by Kazimierz Gustaw Zema. The Old
Synagogue was the first wooden synagogue in d and
was built in 1809 and by 1854 services ceased due to fears
the old building would collapse. By 1871 the new concrete
synagogue Alte Szil was built on the same ground and
was one of Polands greatest. Sadly but unsurprisingly the
structure did not survive the war; the Nazis robbed and
burned Alte Szil in November 1939.QC1, Park Staromiejski.
The Old Synagogue was the first wooden synagogue in
d and was constructed at ul. Wolborska 20 (now the
Decalogue Monument is placed here exactly) in 1809 by
Mojesz Fajtowicz and Pinkus Zajdler. From 1854 services
were moved away from the synagogue out of fear that it
would collapse, and between 1863-1871 a new concrete
synagogue called Alte Szil was built on the same ground.
QC1, Park Staromiejski.
Alte Szil operated as the main synagogue for ds Jewish
Community beginning with its opening 1871. It was
located on ul. Wolborska 20 and was considered one of the
greatest synagogues in d and even all of Poland. It was
rebuilt in 1893 and sported various styles such as Byzantine,
Moorish Revival and Romanesque Revival. During WWII
Nazis robbed and burned Alte Szil in November 1939, with
nothing remaining of the once-dramatic synagogue today.
QC1, Park Staromiejski.
January - April 2016


Jewish d
The ghetto entirely surrounded ds major market,
Baucki Rynek, which the Nazis
were keen to keep open. To
achieve this the Nazis sealed
off the market and its access
roads, allowing traffic to come
and go without entering the
Photo courtesy Polish National ghetto. In effect this created
two separate ghettos. These
were split by the market and
ul. Zgierska, and linked by three bridges: two ran over ul.
Zgierska and another linked the divided street of ul. Zachodnia. The bridges have become a symbol of the ghetto, and
appear on all ghetto literature. The bridge pictured below was
on lower ul. Zgierska, linking ul. Podrzeczna to Stary Rynek.
Neither the bridge nor the surrounding buildings remain today.QC1, Crossing of ul. Zgierska and ul. Podrzeczna.
Few addresses inspired as
much fear in the ghetto
dwellers as ul. Kocielna 8/10.
Known as the Red House it
was commandeered by the
Kripo (Criminal Police) as
a headquarters to combat
smuggling. In reality it was
allowed to turn into a brutal
interrogation centre, where
those suspected of illegal
activity would be tortured in the
basements. Today the building is the property of the nearby
church, with only the plaque outside suggesting the sinister
purpose the building once served.QG3, ul. Kocielna 8/10.
Completed in 1897 this red brick neo-gothic masterpiece
saw its fair share of hard times during the ghetto years.
In 1942 it was used as a warehouse to store the clothes
of those gassed in Chemno and Nerem, after which it
became a feather factory employing slave Jewish labour.
Surrounding it are several surviving points of interest:
The postal service and main treasury were located on pl.
Kocielny 4/6, while next door a pharmacy operated from
number 8 - a function still held by the building today.
QH3, ul. Kocielna 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37, www.
mariacka-lodz.com.pl. Open during mass only or by
prior arrangement.
Described by Oskar Singer as the heart and brains of the
ghetto, Baucki Rynek was where all the principle offices
of the ghetto administration were based - including
Rumkowskis custom-made barracks. It was also the
logistics hub of the whole area, where food arrived, and
where goods made in the ghetto left. The Rynek was
64 d In Your Pocket

separated from the rest of the ghetto and could only be

accessed with a special pass.Today its hard to get a feel for
what was once here, and nowadays anyone penetrating
the market square is liable to leave blinded by the plastic
gizmos and general detritus on sale.QG3, Rynek Baucki.
While it might be hard to picture when youre staring at the
chemists and a loans office that stand here today, this was
once the home of the Gestapo and the Schupo, which kept
tight and merciless control over the ghetto. Several stories
youll read recall how German sentries would delight in
shooting at Jews for sport, as a June 1941 order allowed
officers to fire without warning at any Jew trying to leave
the ghetto was liberally abused. A plaque erected on this
building on the 40th anniversary of the ghetto liquidation
commemorates the fate of the 200,000 Jews and 20,000
gypsies.QG3, ul. Limanowskiego 1.
From there follow ul. Zachodnia southwards, admiring
the Stalinera monstrosities that were hastily built on top
of the former Jewish area. Turning in at ul. Bazarowa youll
note an overgrown triangle of parkland, nowadays popular
with winos and other scapegraces. Towards the far pointed
end is a small stone set in the grass, its inscription missing
(something to do with the aforementioned winos, wed
guess). This marks the spot of the ghetto gallows. From
there head up ul. Rybna, passing a couple of former factories,
before turning in at ul. Rybna 11a. Walk past the basketball
court, and lads tipping back lager, and youll once more find
a stone with a missing plaque. This is all that is left to denote
that the area was once ds oldest Jewish cemetery.
Established in 1811, and operating until 1892, the cemetery
was the final resting place for over 13,000 people. During the
Holocaust the tombs were ripped up and used for paving
stones, though the bodies remained underground (dig hard
and youll still find bones).QG3, ul. Rybna 11.
Helenowek is the orphanage where Rumkowski served
as director prior to the war. In the immediate aftermath it
was used to house child survivors of the Holocaust. Today
it is abandoned and crumbling, a derelict and ghostly
reminder.QF1, ul. Krajowa 15.

QC2, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56,
www.jewishlodz.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00
- 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Open for prayer and religious services.QC2, ul.
Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www.
jewishlodz.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.


The newly opened Planetarium EC1

With a modern water park, new indoor arena and of

course the entertainment and leisure centre incorporated
within Manufaktura, d can offer a range of ideas on
how to spend your time. And dont forget that this is one
of Polands greenest cities, with over 30 parks within the
city limits. Las agiewnicki offers a whole range of outdoor
possibilities throughout the year.

Rent quads and off-road cars for use on a private 4x4 track.
The track includes hills, descents, mud and ditches.Qul.
Ogrodnikw 2b, Nowa Gadka, tel. (+48) 508 01 68 94,
www.sportyekstremalne4x4.pl. Open 10:00 till dusk.
Quads: 200z/1 hour, Cars: 250z/1 hour.



This is far and away the best fitness complex in the
region, and not unlike a UK country club. A recent
renovation takes it up another notch, making it even
more modern with Technogym equipment. Facilities as
follows: four bowling lanes, two indoor tennis courts,
four badminton courts, three squash courts, an airconditioned gym, spa and aerobics classes. Englishspeaking instructors are available on request. Across a
connecting wooden bridge find the swimming complex
which is made up of three pools: childrens pool,
recreational pool featuring water slide and a 25m six
lane pool for the more serious swimmer. Two cafeterias,
a sauna and a steam room are also there to use. A full
price list can be found on their English language web
page. The entire complex is open 06:00-23:00; Sat, Sun
07:00 - 23:00.QG1, ul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz, tel. (+48)
42 714 21 21, www.nowa-gdynia.pl.

Billiards, darts, arcade machines and slots galore. Also at
(D-7) ul. Pisudskiego 5, a location which also has bowling.
QB1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42
633 50 18, www.jazdapark.pl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00.



Small stable just ten minutes away from the city centre.
Qul. Prdzyskiego 120, d Grna, tel. (+48) 504 27
01 74, www.jazda-konna.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:30
- 19:30; Fri 15:30 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 18:00. Closed Mon.


Gym facilities.QI4, ul. Przybyszewskiego 161/163, tel.
(+48) 42 642 01 09, www.body-line.pl. Open 07:00 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

Horse riding with tuition available in German. From 30 to
45z per hour.Qul. Smulska 28 (Polesie), tel. (+48) 601 20
38 96, www.konie.infocentrum.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00.

January - April 2016


Enjoy skate rental (5z) and a bar to hit after you finish
making use of the 1,800 metres of ice they have.
Nationwide figure skating championships held here, which
should tell you something of the quality on offer. Its open
every day but Monday although we recommend checking
their website for exact opening hours as they are subject to
change.QG4, ul. Stefanowskiego 28, tel. (+48) 42 636
27 85, www.mosir.lodz.pl. Admission 9/7z.

Escape Rooms fever has finally reached d and Let Me Out have
opened up two rooms located 10 minutes from pl. Wolnoci or 3
stops by tram 15 A. This is the perfect way to spend time with
friends, family or business partners and the perfect solution for
what to do on a rainy day. How does it work? Well, you and your
friends are locked in a room and you have forty five minutes to
figure out how to escape by solving a series of puzzles using
clues hidden in the room. Its really great fun and each room has
a different theme and different riddles to solve. We recommend
booking your visit in advance!QG3, ul. Wierzbowa 21, tel.
(+48) 601 713 335, www.letmeout.pl. Open 13:30 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 10:30 - 22:00. 99 z per group (2-4 person). N
At EC-1 East the first major attraction is getting ready to open
its doors to the public January 8th after much anticipation.
The brand new Planetarium is one of the most modern
and technically advanced spherical projection cinemas
in all of Central Europe. The screen has a diameter of 14
metres and the camera will display images with a stunning
resolution of 8K. Inside the theatre there will be space for
100 spectators. Part of the mission of the Planetarium will be
to accommodate school groups during the day but in the
afternoon it will be open to the general public and it will
show a mix of classic and cutting edge astronomical shows.
In the evenings they plan to open the theatre up for artistic
projects and experiments mixing breathtaking images with
live music. Check their FB page for updates on opening
hours, price and exact showings.QE4/ E5, ul. Targowa 1/3,
tel. (+48) 42 233 50 55, www.planetariumec1.pl. Tickets:
17/12z; Family 40z (4 people - max 2 adults).

Colour outside the lines at Experymentarium (see p.46)

66 d In Your Pocket

Established in 1938 the local zoo features 3,000 animals,
including cheetahs, lions, tigers and reptiles and
scores of other depressed looking creatures.QF3, ul.
Konstantynowska 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 632 75 79, www.
zoo.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:30. Last entrance 1 hour
before closing. Admission 11/5z. N

Outdoor courts with English-language coaching available
upon request. Open all year round.QF4, ul. eromskiego
117 (entrance from Al. Mickiewicza), tel. (+48) 42 637 65
04, www.mkt-lodz.com. Open 06:00 - 24:00.

Located in the Bauty district close to the forest. Sleigh rides
takes about two and a half hours in all and include a bonfire
with sausages, bread and hot tea in the price of 30z per
person. Organised for groups of up to 12 people and only
if there is enough snow so please call in advance to book a
ride and check availability.Qul. Liciasta 241 (Bauty), tel.
(+48) 608 48 91 63, www.hippika.com.pl.


This exceptional Day Spa and Clinic goes out of their way to
improve your health, body and soul. Choose from a huge
selection of skin replenishing treatments and corrective
procedures. The soft candlelight and soft mood music will help
set the tone for your full body rejuvenation. Their Professional
team of experienced Cosmetologists, Doctors and specialists
are there to help you choose a solution that just right for the
new you. Turn up the calm and turn back the clock.QC7, Al.
Kociuszki 106/116, tel. (+48) 42 256 87 97, www.espaclinic.
pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Stay up-to-date
Swimming, sauna and massage treatments on the topfloor glass encased rooftop of the designer Andels Hotel.
Pool is open 06:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Sauna
is open Mon-Fri 16:00-22:00; Sat 09:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:30 21:00. Massages and other treatments 16:00 - 22:00 and by
prior arrangement. The Spa is open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00
- 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.QB1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Andels
Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 279 15 80, www.andelslodz.com.

This impressive day spa specialises in wellness treatments
of all kinds. Exfoliating body scrubs, manicures/pedicures,
therapeutic massages or even slimming and shaping
treatments. Their professional staff of qualified specialists,
cosmetologists, masseurs, dermatologists and stylists will
help you figure out which treatment(s) are just right for you.
Their comfortable Spa salon is located right in the Centre of
Lodz on the ground floor of the Manhattan block (across
from Galeria dzka).QD7, ul. Sienkiewicza 101/109, tel.
(+48) 783 19 07 83, www.slimandbeauty.pl. Open 09:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Traipsing the streets of d or navigating the vast
Manufaktura with dozens of shopping bags is an exhausting
business, so a visit to the Double Tree Spa & Health Club is the
ideal solution to restore mind, body and spirit. The Spa offers
a full range of body treatments, massages and relaxing rituals.
If that isnt enough to make your weary body tingle with
excitement, clients who are not guests of the hotel can also
take advantage of free use of the gym and swimming pool on
the day of their visit. So, go ahead and pamper yourself in this
stunningly equipped and ultra-modern Spa & Health Club
with a fitness center open 24hrs and a swimming pool open
daily 06:00 - 22:00. Those based in the city can also sign up for
their own personal trainer who will make sure you stay in tiptop shape with an individually tailored dietary and exercise
programme.QA7, ul. kowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton
d Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 07, www.doubletreelodz.
pl. The SPA is open everyday 09:00 - 21:00 (but you must
book body treatments or massages in advance).
wiat Kobiet translates to World of Women, but it might
as well be world of pampering based on the long list of
services offered. From head (haircuts and color, makeup
applications) to toe (pedicures, massage, even waxing)
this salon leaves nothing out, and does it all in the up-andcoming Scheibler Lofts complex.QG4, ul. Tymienieckiego
25a, tel. (+48) 603 31 33 13, www.swiatkobiet.net.pl.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

A fantastic new addition to the d leisure scene. Boasting
4 indoor pools with several slides and one with a wave
machine, including a pool for the kids and three water
playgrounds. There are also 7 saunas (ranging from Finnish
with music therapy to crystal steam baths and open until
23:30 on Fridays), 1 large Jacuzzi, heated loungers, an
indoor water slide a wild river ride and an on site restaurant
to keep you entertained.QF4, Al. Unii Lubelskiej 4, tel.
(+48) 42 640 08 00, www.aquapark.lodz.pl. Open 07:00
- 22:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Prices are varied
depending on dates and times. Find out more at their
website at www.aquapark.lodz.pl/tickets.php.

Palm Sunday (20/03/2016) marks the official
beginning of Polands Easter festivities - perhaps the
countrys most sacred holiday. Leading up to the
season you may see decorative handmade palms for
sale around town. These traditional decorations are
made from a variety of dried flowers and plants and are
crafted in villages all over Poland. Palms are taken to
church on Palm Sunday to be blessed before they will
decorate homes until the end of the season.
As a deeply Catholic country, Poland takes its Easter
celebrations seriously; throughout the period, the
visiting foreigner can expect bars and restaurants to
be either empty or closed beginning on Good Friday
(25/03/2016). A traditional day of abstinence, dutifully
observing Catholics visit church to attend stations of
the cross - a series of prayers following Jesus Christs
route to his crucifixion.
On Easter Saturday (26/03/2016) Poles, typically
children, bring brightly decorated baskets of food to
church to have these blessed as well. These baskets
traditionally contain a piece of sausage, bread, egg,
mazurek cake (a traditional Easter cake), some salt, some
horseradish and a symbolic ram made from dough. In
addition pisanki are included - painted boiled eggs
which have been prepared in the lead-up to Easter by
the whole family. Each of these components of the
basket has a symbolic meaning. The eggs and meat
symbolize new life, fertility and health, the salt protects
against bad spirits and helps you follow the right path,
the bread symbolizes the body of Christ - and by this
future prosperity in terms of always having food to
feed yourself, the horseradish represents strength and
physical health and the cake represents skills and talents
needed for the coming year.
Rezurekcja (Resurrection), a traditional mass with
procession, is held Saturday night or Easter morning
depending on parish tradition. On Easter Sunday
(27/03/2016), families gather together to celebrate
with an Easter breakfast of urek (Polish rye soup), bread,
eggs, sausage, horseradish and poppy seed cakes. Each
person places a small piece of the blessed food on their
plate before exchanging wishes with other members
of the family. The symbolic dough ram is placed on the
table to symbolize the resurrection of Christ. Things
take on a more lighthearted air on Easter Monday
(28/03/2016). Known as mingus Dyngus the day is
dominated by public water fights and everyone is given
carte blanche to drench anyone they see with water.
You, as a foreigner, are not exempt from this practice,
so move fast if you see someone armed with a water
pistol or bucket and a grin. Although its never pleasant
to have a jug of water thrown over your head, this is an
improvement from the past when young people were
beaten with sticks from Palm Sunday trees - explained
away as bringing luck and strength for the year ahead.
January - April 2016



Galeria dzka

Shopping in d centres on three main areas of the city:

the thoroughfare of Piotrkowska, the modern shopping
centre Galeria dzka, and the shopping heaven that is the
Manufaktura complex. Some of the streets running parallel
to Piotrkowska, including ul. Sienkiewicza, are good for
specialist shops, such as antiques and paintings. Indeed,
whisper it in Warsaw, but d may in fact be Polands
top shopping destination. Whether its malls, designer
boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets a day
spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures,
and theres presents to be had for everyone on your list
(including yourself ).
When we think of what the ladies would like, one word
comes to mind: amber. Poland is well known as the best
place to find handsomely shaped fossilised resin, and
you can easily nab a piece that will please at A&A Dom
Jubilerski or famed Polish jeweller W. Kruk.
One word: beer. Another word: lard. Take home some Polish
brews and a container of smalec (spreadable lard) and youll
make any man happy. Krakowski Kredens carries tubs
of the greasy stuff, while youll find every obscure Polish
microbrew at Piwoteka, a tiny store just off Piotrkowska
that is floor-to-ceiling bottles.
If your bros a sports enthusiast Manufaktura has plenty of
stores offering gear and kit for whatever ball he prefers to
kick, throw, hit or catch. If hes more into Marvel and DC pick
68 d In Your Pocket

up some classic comics and Polish rarities at Antykwariat

While it might not be as synonymous with European
fashion as cities like Paris and Milan, Lodz is the home of
Polish Fashion Week and a hotbed of all things stylish. Bring
sis home something fashion-forward from Manufaktura,
the citys 90,000m2 shopping mall that houses more than
300 stores, including several Polish fashion brands to scour
for stylish treats such as Reserved.
Lodz is the home of the countrys famed film school, and
its a great place to snap up some classic Polish DVDs of
old-school cartoons like Reksio and Bolek i Lolek. Both
cartoons were created during PRL times and contain no
dialogue, which means kids from any culture will easily be
able to follow the storylines. Find stacks of DVDs at the local
Give mom some monk-like zen with soaps and lotions
from Produkty Benedyktyskie, which carries a variety
of products created by the brothers at Tyniec Abbey in
If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his
life in interesting vintage bookshops. Lodz is packed with
them, and Antykwariat Komiks is one of the best for

Half store, half wine bar, Klub Wino will easily appeal to
wine connoisseurs who like to buy as well as taste. The
store features bottles from around the world, including a
small section of Polish wines.QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 217,
tel. (+48) 602 76 96 99, www.klubwino.pl. Open 11:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
Youve probably been in bathroom stalls larger than this
shop, but thats not what will grab your attention. Piwoteka
is floor-to-ceiling beer, the kinds you cant and dont find
in the local pub (we imagine Tyskie is a dirty word here).
Weve actually seen huddles of young men staring longingly
through the window. Take it further and go inside, where
you cant turn around but you can learn a lot about the
worlds best beer from the knowledgeable owner.QC4, ul.
6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 730 35 67 06, www.piwoteka.pl.
Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.


Vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland.
Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and
coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without
bringing baby some Baltic Gold and youve booked yourself
a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin is in any
of the jewellery stores found in Manufaktura, though youll
find Piotrkowska offering numerous opportunities as well.
One look in A&As window and youll be blinded by the
bling on display; anything picked up here will easily draw
attention, with plenty of unique designs to choose from.
QC6, ul. Piotrkowska 146, tel. (+48) 42 637 17 83,
www.domjubilerski.aia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun.
The owner has 18 years of experience and training working
with the world renowned Austrian Kings of Bling, Swarovski.
As well as a fabulous range of jewellery and items produced
in their onsite workshop, using Swarovski components
and their own range of sparkling crystal, they also stock
jewellery and accessories from designers such as Murano
and cult Dutch design team Buddha to Buddha. Crystal
Fashion also undertakes commission work, irrespective of
how bizarre or complex your idea may be, and they have
encrusted cars, snooker cues and even a vacuum cleaner.
Lighting, including chandeliers, are another speciality
of theirs. Not just a store for the super-rich, many of the
workshop pieces are very reasonably priced and you can
even come away with a Swarovski topped pencil for an
amazing 12z!QG4, ul. Tymienieckiego 22/24, tel. (+48)
42 648 05 77, www.crystalfashion.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.

Phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where
customers can select their own components and create a
unique and personal piece. The range continues to grow,
with the original idea of the personalised bracelet still the
biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of
simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes
- hearts, dogs, cats and the likes, and then have it hand
engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you,
like Justin Bieber for example. All slightly naff but a must
have item amongst local celebs and fashionistas.QC3, ul.
Piotrkowska 18, tel. (+48) 797 33 43 36, www.lilou.pl.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Polish jewellery, amber and watches from various
international brand names all worth a browse. Also at ul.
Pisudskiego 15/23 (D-7, Galeria dzka).QA1, ul. Jana
Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 661 98 05 73,
www.wkruk.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Yes jewelry stores can be found throughout Poland, and will
impress with their array of accessible (Pandora) and classic
(Polish amber) options. Keep an eye out for unique Polish
designers.QA/B1, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura),
tel. (+48) 42 617 37 27, www.yes.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.


While it might not look like much from the outside this
bookshop is packed to the rafters with all manner of old
and new books and comics covering topics were guessing
you havent even thought of yet. Theres so much reading
material books are often stacked on the floor and aisles,
so watch your step.QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 50, tel. (+48)
42 630 34 57, www.antykwariat-bazar.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
A popular gallery devoted to promoting young Polish
artists.QG3, ul. Zgierska 4, tel. (+48) 504 02 32 42. Open
12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.


A great central bookstore that boasts two titles we mention
in our Lodz ghetto section: Traces of the Litzmannstadt
Ghetto and d - The Golden Book.QC1, ul. Stary
Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 42 661 46 66. Open 13:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
English language bookshop.QC2, ul. Piotrkowska 11,
tel. (+48) 42 633 31 06, www.stompel.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
January - April 2016




This is a truly unique little shop that peddles attractive
applied art at Very Reasonable prices. The store is organised
to present a broad cross-section of what is happening
(mostly, but not exclusively) in contemporary Polish
design and graphic design. You will find here important
publications, albums (in English!), graphics and illustrations,
stationery, posters, hand made toys, home accessories and
even some d-themed souvenirs. The perfect place to
find something nice for that special someone.QC6, ul.
Piotrkowska 142, tel. (+48) 514 52 30 44. Open 11:00 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive yet
exquisite Polish delicacies, including jams, honeys, liquors
and even a tub of smalec for you diehard fans.QA1, ul.
Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 630 08
84, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00.

Stand out from the masses by visiting Bloom Boutique.
Specialising in womenswear, bags and accessories by
some of Polands top fashion designers (est by eS, Vivitt,
10 DECOART and Gepetto Polska) this is THE place to
find short-run collections from the likes of Alexandra
Markowska and Joanna Hawrot or award winning local
designers Micha Szulc and Maria Wiatrowska. The regularly
changing stock features pieces for a variety of occasions;
casual, avant garde, business and evening wear. Come in
and chat with the owner, Beata Andrzejczak (who speaks
English and Italian), about the designers represented in
the boutique. Apart from the local buzz surrounding her
unique d store, she has built up a following of return
customers from around Europe and the U.S.A.QC5, ul.
Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 506 08 47 93. Open 11:00 19:00, Fri 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
This uniquely colourful and immediately inviting salon is not
what might you expect from your typical jewellery shop.
Paired with their sister company Lou Saints, their showcases
are filled with all sorts of glittering gadgets, precious
pendants, delicate necklaces and leather bracelets from
both companies. Their elegantly playful nature of the salon
gives you the freedom to mix and match any of the items
on display. The expert and friendly staff will happily help
you choose the right piece and customise it so that special
someone will cherish their talisman even more. Lilou is the
perfect melding of French elegance and Polish craftsmanship.
QC3, ul. Piotrkowska 20, tel. (+48) 511 97 25 08, www.
lilou.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Second-hand shops are something d has in spades,
though most arent worth braving the musty odours and
messy displays to enter. Not so at Mogadishu, a store
so stylish it took us several minutes to realise we were
perusing used goods. Shoes, purses and clothes are all
clean and modern in this airy, uncluttered space, and the
display of handmade jewellery is a must-see.QC-2, ul.
Rewolucji 1905 r. 6, tel. (+48) 698 04 53 52. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
70 d In Your Pocket


A Polish legend thats been operating since Karol Wedel first
opened a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the handmade
truffles and be sure to sit for a rich chocolate drink.QA/B1,
Rynek (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 631 00 36, www.
wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec
Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of products
- cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups,
meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the
time. All the products are completely natural, without
pigment, and unilaterally excellent and make excellent
gifts and can even be purchased through their (Polish
only) website.Qul. Piotrkowska 200 (rdmiecie), tel.
(+48) 42 636 40 66, www.produktybenedyktynskie.
com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed


Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if
you want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace
and woodwork all look lovely on someone elses mantle.
Folk art is an easily recognizable symbol of Poland, as is a
magnet of the countrys favorite hero and saint-in-waiting
Pope John Paul II.
Your first stop for traditional (some might say tacky)
souvenirs. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish
handicrafts like table cloths, ceramics, glass etc.QC5, ul.
Piotrkowska 97, tel. (+48) 42 630 35 41, www.cepelia.pl.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
A sports shop that promises all the official Polish
national football team gear and any other sporty
equipment or attire you might need.QA/B1, ul. Jana
Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 12 444 88 88,
www.intersport.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00.

Non-EU residents are entitled to claim
a VAT refund when the purchased
goods are exported in an unused
condition outside the EU in personal
luggage. Shop wherever you see
the Global Blue logo. The minimum
total purchase value with VAT per
Tax Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free Form, have
it stamped when leaving the final point of departure
from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details
check www.globalblue.com.

Opened in 2002 Galeria dzka became the first modern
shopping centre in the city, with some 160 retail units
occupying a space of 45,000 sqm. On the fashion front
consumers needs are met by stores like Zara, H&M,
Sunstage, Reserved, KappAhl and New Look, though those
with credit cards tend to head in one direction alone: Peek
& Cloppenburg, purveyors of a range of designer tags that
include Boss Black and Boss Orange, Cerutti, Gaultier and
Lacoste. Other needs come catered for in the shape of
Home & You and cosmetic and beauty store Apteka SuperPharm. Added in the last year has been the first Stradivarius
shop in town, as well as a store operated by Spanish
clothing brand Pull & Bear. Food-wise theres the standard
mall mix, with all the big Yank franchises represented, as
well as Hana Sushi, Sphinx Costa Coffee and North Fish.
Ranked as Europes Best Shopping Centre in the 2004
ICSC Awards, GL realised their expansion plans fitting in
even more stores than before. Its within walking distance
from Piotrkowska, though car owners can choose from
1,400 parking spaces (the first 3 hours are free!).QD7,
Al. Pisudskiego 15/23, tel. (+48) 42 639 15 00, www.
galeria-lodzka.pl. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

in Ldzs restaurateurs then by all means, see if you can do

better yourself. Your first point of call should be either Kuchnie
wiata (first floor) or Toscana, right next door. In the former
find a collection of hard-to-find goodies that range from Israeli
fruit drinks to Marmite to a range of sauces from across the
world. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in choice. Toscana
is a similarly upmarket delicatessen, this one selling produce
straight from Italy. Even more impressive mind is the Alma
supermarket, a haven that features peso sauces imported
from Liguria, hams courtesy of Krakowski Kredens, countless
European cheeses and over 200 global coffee brands.
After, why not hit Old Havana for your post-dinner cigar.
Complete with a walk-in humidor chamber this is just the
place for aficionados to test cigars imported from Cuba.
Another store to watch for is the Apple iSpot for all your
Mac needs.
Outside the main range of shops dont forego a visit to
the craftsmans alley between the Rynek and the mall; its
here youll find all manner of stores including a cobblers,
as well as privately run stores specialising in everything
from metalwork to traditional rural-style souvenirs. The
arrival of restaurants Polka and Bawena is also a sure sign
that Manufaktura has arrived. Theres also a newly added
casino for those feeling lucky in Lodz. For a full map of the
shopping centre or further info dont be afraid to approach
the English-speaking staff manning the information point
at the main entrance.QA/B1, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel.
(+48) 42 664 92 89, www.manufaktura.com. Open 10:00
- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.


Filled with lunar curves and a light, bright atmosphere the
shopping mall side to Manufaktura brings a new angle to
the otherwise red brick architecture. The entire complex
covers 27 hectares, and the mall has been split into four
themes - industrial, cinema, design and textile - so as to
make navigation easier. Those arriving with their kids in tow
should consider dispatching them to the crche found just
off the Rynek, close to the Bella Napoli restaurant.
Flagship stores include Leroy Merlin as well as a vast range
of brand name clothing stores like Hugo Boss, Hilfiger, H&M,
Timberland, a designer baby shop called LuxBaby and an
Adidas superstore. In total 306 retail units are occupied with
other tenants including the Smyk toy store, Saturn, EMPiK
and RTV EURO AGD. Its not just mega-brand stores though
that are drawing processions of spenders, but a top selection
of specialist stores that youll be lucky to find elsewhere, let
alone under one roof. If youre not ready to put your trust

January - April 2016


CITOQA4, ul. eromskiego 39, tel. (+48) 42 633 48 29,
MAGICZNAQB3, ul. Zachodnia 81/83, tel. (+48) 42
630 75 75, www.magiczna.com.

QG3, ul. Wojska Polskiego 82, tel. (+48) 42 616 07 60.
QE7, ul. Kiliskiego 153.

QF3, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 288 01 00, www.
QA7, ul. kowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 208 80 80, www.
QD7, Al. Pisudskiego 11, tel. (+48) 42 638 67 00, www.
QC7, ul. Wlczaska 128/134, tel. (+48) 695 58 11 81,


Qul. Gagarina 34, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81, www.
QB3, ul. Marszakowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 565
29 00, www.polen.um.dk.
Qul. Jazdw 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00, www.
Qul. Chopina 2, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 537 56 60, www.
Qul. Krlowej Aldony 19, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 617 11
05, www.mfa.gov.lv/pl/poland.
Qul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www.
72 d In Your Pocket

QC5, Al. Kociuszki 32, tel. (+48) 42 632 57 11.

QG3, ul. Pomorska 83/85, tel. (+48) 501 32 32 57,

Qul. wirki 17, tel. (+48) 42 637 48 24, www.akcentedu.pl.
QH3, ul. Matejki 21/23, tel. (+48) 42 635 47 00, www.

QC5, Al. Politechniki 32 (rdmiecie), tel. (+48) 42 638
58 60, www.uml.lodz.pl.
QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 638 40 00, www.
QI5, ul. Lodowa 97, tel. (+48) 42 638 82 22, www.lodz.

QD6, Al. Pisudskiego 8, tel. (+48) 42 663 33 80, www.


The President of the city is a woman called Hanna
Zdanowska.QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 638
41 15, www.uml.lodz.pl.
QC5, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 664 10 00, www.

QD5, ul. Tuwima 38, tel. (+48) 42 632 58 16, www.
poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
QF4, Al. Wkniarzy 227, tel. (+48) 42 634 41 34, www.
poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.
QB4, Al. Kociuszki 5/7, tel. (+48) 42 632 41 05, www.
poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

QD4, ul. Traugutta 25, tel. (+48) 42 632 91 56, www.
QC5, ul. Struga 3, tel. (+48) 42 633 56 61, www.salve.pl.

QB3, ul. Wickowskiego 20, tel. (+48) 508 06 26 60,
QB3, ul. Piotrkowska 22, tel. (+48) 42 630 54 23, www.
QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 71/3, tel. (+48) 42 634 02 02,
QF4, ul. Kopernika 62, tel. (+48) 42 637 22 33, www.

Full contents online:


Currency exchange offices (Kantor) are easy to find

in d, but as with any international destination, its
imperative to check the rates to ensure you arent
getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never
change your money at city entry points, particularly
at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To
help put your mind and your wallet at ease, weve
assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that
wont rip you off, and dont take a commission.
QD7, Al. Pisudskiego 15/23 (Galeria dzka), tel.
(+48) 42 636 01 62. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00
- 20:00.
QA/B1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel.
(+48) 42 634 84 98. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00
- 21:00.

QG4, ul. Radwaska 37, tel. (+48) 42 637 74 44, www.
lodz.reformowani.net.pl. Services on Sundays and holy
days at 10:30.

Qul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737
72 00, www.corstjens.com.

QE4, ul. Narutowicza 35 lok.24, tel. (+48) 42 635 35 50,
QF4, ul. Struga 78, tel. (+48) 662 44 99 84, www.
January - April 2016



Go for a swim in the clouds at DoubleTree.

For many years the hotel sector in Lodz didnt reflect its
position as the countrys third biggest city. While the
skyscraping 5-star international brands have still yet to
arrive here, the sector has seen a marked improvement
in recent years with a series of new and renovated hotels
opening their doors. And with the improved rooms you can
expect improved service as well with English much more
widely spoken and with extras such as wireless internet,
spas, swimming pools and gyms now coming as standard
in many places. With rates tending to fluctuate its well
worth taking a look at the hotelcalculator price comparison
function on the pages of lodz.inyourpocket.com to see
what rates the major booking engines are offering.
Here are a few suggestions depending on what you are
looking for:
The city lacks the skyscrapers of neighbouring Warsaw
or the honeymoon retreats of twee Krakow, but finding
decent lodgings is no longer the mission impossible of
yesteryear. Topping the lot is the Andels, an internationally
acclaimed behemoth set in a former factory that issues
guests iPhones for navigation purposes. Further afield
Stacja Nowa Gdynia is a great country club style retreat
set in a wooded area with lakeside views.
One choice really, and thats the Revelo, a great boutique
hotel with rooms themed on the inter-war period. Its not
as luxurious as the prices suggest, but its still a place with
74 d In Your Pocket

oodles of character and plenty of charm. If you prize spoonfeeding each other molecular cuisine then choose NoBo
Hotel, whose on-site restaurant Kolory Wina has perfected
the modern menu.
Linat Orchim offer beds from 120 zlots upwards and while
the accommodation is nowhere near as character-filled as
the building its nonetheless a great deal. Hostels have
finally arrived in Lodz, and you can find sparkling new
options right in the heart of the city now with Cynamon
Check the Focus, a super mid-range option thats both
modern and mass-market in style to easily accomodate
large parties with plenty of space. For something closer
to town theres the Campanile. And newcomer Holiday
Inn is a dazzling option with modern rooms on central
Piotrkowska for quick access to all the action in the city.
No hotel boasts a finer history than the Grand, a hulking
art nouveau building overlooking Piotrkowska. Famous
guests aplenty here, from Tito to... Himmler. If youre a fan
of film history then Stare Kino Cinema Residence is most
certainly the place for you. The comfortable Hotel and
Apartment rooms are tastefully designed and steeped in
history as it was in this very building the first Movie Theatre
in Poland appeared at the beginning of the 20th Century.

QB1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 279
10 00, www.andelslodz.com. 277 rooms (220 singles,
220 doubles, 52 apartments, 4 Maisonette Suite,
1 Maisonette Deluxe). PH6UFKDXC

QE6, Al. Pisudskiego 29, tel. (+48) 42 677 15 20, www.
hotelambasador.eu. 143rooms (71singles, 68doubles,
4apartments). HUFLKDC hhhh
QF3, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 288 01 00, www.
hotelborowiecki.pl. 56 rooms (18 singles, 36 doubles,
2apartments). PH6UFK hhh
QA7, ul. kowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 208 80 00, www.
doubletreelodz.pl. 200rooms (189singles, 189doubles,
10 suites, 1 Presidential Apartment). P6UFK
DCw hhhh
QG4, ul. Piotrkowska 229/231, tel. (+48) 42 208 20 00,
www.hilodz.com. 127rooms (117singles, 117doubles,
10suites). PHUFLKD hhhh
QF2, ul. Liciasta 86 / Al. Wkniarzy, tel. (+48) 42
234 14 61, www.nobohotel.pl. 25 rooms (24 singles,
24doubles, 1apartment). PH6
ULK hhh
QD7, Al. Pisudskiego 11a, tel. (+48) 42 254 39 00,
www.novotel.com. 161rooms (160singles, 144doubles,
1apartment). PH6UFK hhhh
QUBUS HOTEL DQB7, Al. Mickiewicza 7, tel.
(+48) 42 275 51 00, www.qubushotel.com. 78 rooms
(55singles, 23doubles). PH6ULKX hhh
REVELOQD7, ul. Wigury 4/6, tel. (+48) 42 636 86
86, www.revelo.pl. 3 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles,
1apartment). HLK
STACJA NOWA GDYNIAQF1, ul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz,
tel. (+48) 42 714 21 61, www.hotelnowagdynia.pl.
19rooms (18singles, 18doubles, 1apartment). PH
6UFLKDCw hhh
QF4, ul. Kopernika 64, tel. (+48) 42 207 07 07, www.
hoteltobaco.pl. 115 rooms (46 singles, 67 doubles,
2suites). H6UF
LKD hhh

January - April 2016


Mix a working class culture with a hatred for
Imperial Russia and you get a volatile mix and
so it proved in 1905, when the people of d rose
in rebellion against their Russkie rulers. Russias
disastrous military campaign against Japan had far
reaching consequences, battering an already fragile
economy. Over 100,000 Polish workers found
themselves laid off, and no city felt the pinch more
than the factory city of d. A wave of popular
unrest spread across the Russian Empire, reaching
a nadir with the massacre of demonstrators in St
Petersburg on January 22nd. By then workers in
d were already on strike, and by the end of the
month this discontent had morphed into street
protests. By this stage over 400,000 workers had
laid down their tools across the country, paralysing
the economy and panicking the Russian authorities.
Tensions continued to simmer in the months that
followed, finally exploding in June when Tsarist
police opened fire on a workers march in d, killing
ten people. The funerals, held on June 20 and June
21, became the focus of further demonstrations, and
the Cossack Cavalry were ordered to charge into
the unruly, stone-throwing mob. Twenty five people
were killed, and by nightfall what had started off as
a demonstration had turned into a full scale revolt.
Violence spread across the city, with insurgents
united under a red banner. By June 23 the situation
had escalated out of control, prompting Tsar
Nicholas II to sign a decree enforcing Martial Law
in the city. Over the next couple of days battles raged
in the streets of d, with the revolutionaries not
just facing Russian troops, but also the supporters
of Roman Dmowskis National Democratic Party.
An attempt to bolster the insurgents numbers by
sending sympathetic supporters from Warsaw was
thwarted, and by June 25 the last of the barricades
was captured. Official sources put civilian casualties
at 151, though many locals dispute this figure as an
under-estimate. The d Insurrection ultimately
proved a chaotic and tragic failure, although it did
manage to serve as a catalyst as copycat riots and
strikes across Poland quickly rose up in the wake of
the failed d Insurrection. The various riots and
protests across Poland become collectively known
as the Revolution in the Kingdom of Poland.
The Poles had once more shown the Russians they
wouldnt be pushed around. Not long after, Polish
Independence was finally achieved in the aftermath
of WWI. Today the momentous events of 1905
are largely forgotten in d, though those with
a nose for history should visit the Museum of the
Tradition of Independence set inside a former
prison, its here that scores of demonstrators found
themselves incarcerated.
76 d In Your Pocket

QC4, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 8, tel. (+48) 512 20 10 80,
www.hotels24.com.pl. 69rooms (20singles, 40doubles,
4triples, 2suites, 1apartment).
QE6, Al. Pisudskiego 27, tel. (+48) 42 664 26 00,
www.campanile-lodz.pl. 104 rooms (104 singles,
104doubles). PH6UKX hh
QF3, Al. Wkniarzy 151, tel. (+48) 665 18 90 50, www.
cudmiod.pl. 5rooms (5singles, 5doubles). 6K
QA7, ul. kowa 23/25, tel. (+48) 42 637 12 00, www.
focushotels.pl. 110 rooms (49 singles, 54 doubles,
7triples). PH6UFKDX hhh
QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 72, tel. (+48) 42 633 99 20,
www.grandlodz.pl. 89 rooms (41 singles, 27 doubles,
14suites, 7apartments). PH6ULK hhh
QD7, Al. Pisudskiego 11, tel. (+48) 42 638 67 00, www.
ibis.com. 207rooms (207singles, 207doubles). PH
6UK hh
QC2, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 632 46 61, www.
linatorchim.pl. 23 rooms (23 singles, 23 doubles,
23triples, 23quads). 6
QG4, ul. 28 Puku Strzelcw Kaniowskich 53/57,
tel. (+48) 42 637 43 33, www.hotelmazowiecki.
com. 105 rooms (63 singles, 38 doubles, 3 suites,
1apartment). H6UK hh
QC4, ul. Traugutta 6, tel. (+48) 42 632 93 60, www.
savoy.centrumhotele.pl. 91 rooms (57 singles,
33doubles, 1apartment). H6U hh
QC6, Al. Kociuszki 68, tel. (+48) 42 636 36 37, www.
swiatowit.centrumhotele.pl. 201 rooms (125 singles,
74 doubles, 1 quad, 2 apartments). PH6UK
QG6, ul. Scaleniowa 11, tel. (+48) 42 689 25 90, www.
hotelrubin.pl. 11 rooms (1 single, 6 doubles, 1 triple,
2suites, 1apartment). 6K hhh



QG5, ul. Obywatelska 152, tel. (+48) 42 686 47 94,
www.adriahotel.pl. 11 rooms (3 singles, 5 doubles,
1triple, 2apartments). 6L

Your Home in Travel!


QG/H3, ul. Kopciskiego 16/18, tel. (+48) 42 635 54 90,
www.csk.uni.lodz.pl. 60rooms (56singles, 42doubles,
4apartments). PH6K
QD3, ul. Narutowicza 38, tel. (+48) 42 632 87 73,
www.polonia.centrumhotele.pl. 83 rooms (30 singles,
46doubles, 7triples). H6U hh

Central location - Piotrkowska Street

QD4, ul. Narutowicza 24/34, tel. (+48) 602 78 33 44,
www.arrivia.eu. 4rooms (4apartments). L
QC3, ul. Piotrkowska 21, tel. (+48) 42 633 80 80, www.
hometravel.pl. 18rooms (18apartments). P
QG4, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 42 207 27 27, www.
cinemahotel.pl. 42rooms (42apartments). H6K

Free parking available

QG4, ul. Stefanowskiego 17, tel. (+48) 512 22 10 22,
www.hotels24.com.pl. 41rooms (11singles, 22doubles,

QD5, ul. Sienkiewicza 40, tel. (+48) 42 209 34 79,
www.cynamonhostel.pl. 25rooms (2singles, 7doubles,
2 triples, 3 quads, 130 dorm beds, 2 Six-person room,
4Eight-person room, 2Ten-person room). H6
QC4, ul. Piotrkowska 60, tel. (+48) 533 53 32 63, www.
music-hostel.pl. 6rooms (2doubles, 2triples, 2quads,
12dorm beds). 6

Wifi and satellite TV - free of charge

ul. Piotrkowska 21
90-406 d
tel.: +48/42/633-80-80
fax. +48/42/633-80-10
January - April 2016


Rooms | Conference | Restaurant | Spa & Health Club | Pool | 3D Cinema

T: +48 42 208 80 00 | E: LCJDL.RES@hilton.com | www.doubletreelodz.pl | lodz.doubletree.com


1300 m


Arrivia B&B





Novotel Centrum


Holiday Inn
Boutique Hostel
I. Skorupki

Boutique Hotel


d Chojny


3250 m

Art Museum - ms

Art Museum - ms


of the Factory


City of d


Dtka Canal

Arrivia B&B


300 m

Street Mural

600 m


DoubleTree by Hilton



Holiday Inn






New Centre of d

All you need to

know about where
to sleep, eat, drink,
visit and enjoy



Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides


Street Register
1 Maja, al.
A/B-3 (F-3)
11-go Listopada
3 Maja
6 Sierpnia A/C-4 (F-3/4)
Abramowskiego G/H-4
Aksamitna I-1
Andrzejewskiej H/I-4
Anstadta, al.
Anyowa F-1
Barlickiego, pl.
Bartoka I-4
Bednarska G-5
Bema, gen.
Beskidzka H/I-2
Biegaskiego F/G-2
Boya-eleskiego G-2
Bracka G-2
Bratysawska F-4
Broniewskiego G/H-5
Bronisawy G/H-5
Brukowa F-1/2
Brzeziska H/I-2
Brzena G-4
Brzoskwiniowa F-1
Brzzki, ks.
Budy I-2
Bystrzycka H-3
Centralna G/H-2
Cieszyska F/G-5
Cicha H-4
Codzienna H-5
Cyprysowa F-1
Czahary F-5
Czapli G-1
Czechosowacka H-3
Czernika I-4
Dbrowskiego G/I-5
Dbrowskiego, gen., pl. E-3
Dobois F-5/6
Dobrzyska F-5
Doy H-3
Dostawcza H/I-5
Dowborczykw E-5/6
Drewnowska A/B-1 (F/G-3)
Edwarda H-3
Elektronowa F-3
Eugeniusza F/G-5
Folwarczana G-2
Franciszka z Asyu, w. F-5
Franciszkaska D-1 (G-2/3)
Gandhiego F-3
Gdaska A/B-2/7 (G-3/4)
Giewont I-2/3
Gadka G-5/6
Gojawiczyskiej H-5
Gralska G-2
Grnicza G-2
Grska I-3
Grota-Roweckiego H-4
Grunwaldzka F-2
Harcerzy Legionistw, al.
Haka I-4
Herbowa H-2
Hipoteczna F-2
Hoffmanowej F-6
Hotelowa C-4
Chaubinskiego H/I-2
Chdowskiego H-5
Chmurna H-3
Inflancka G/H-2
Ireny H-5
Jaboniowa F-1

84 d In Your Pocket

Jakuba C/D-1
Jana Pawa II, al. F/G-4/5
Janosika H/I-2/3
C/E-3 (G/H-3)
Jarzynowa F-3
Jastrzbia G-1
Jerzego, w.
Jesionowa F-1
Jzefa H-4
Jzewskiego, al.
Julianowska F/G-2
Kacza G-1
Kadubka H-5
Kalinowa F-2
Karpacka G-5
Kasprzaka F-3
Kasztelaska G/H-1/2
Kiliskiego D/E-1/7 (G-3/5)
Klonowa F-3
Kniaziewicza F-2
Koobrzeska F-5
Koowa G/H-5
Komorniki H-5
Komuny Paryskiej, pl. C/D-5
Koniakowska H-2
Konstantynowska F-3/4
Konstytucyjna H-3
Kopciskiego G/H-3/4
Kopernika A/B-5/6 (F/G-4)
Kociuszki, al.

B/C-4/7 (G-3/4)
Kossaka H-5
Kostki G-4
Kosynierw Gdyskich
Krakusa G-5
Krasnoludkw G-1
Kraszewskiego G-5
Krecia F/G-1
Krokusowa H-3
Krlewska G-6
Krysztaowa H-1/2
Krzemieniecka F-4
Ksika H-1/2
Kurczaki H-6
Kusociskiego F-4
abdzia F/G-1
agiewnicka G-1/3
kowa A-6/7
Lawinowa H/I-3
azowskiego G-5/6
A/B-2 (G-3)
Leszczynowa G-2
Limanowskiego F/G-2/3
Lipowa A-3/6
Liciasta F-1/2
Listopadowa I-2/3
Lodowa H/I-4/5
odzianka H-1
omnicka H-2/3
omyska G-5
ozowa F-1
ukaszewska H/I-1
ukowa F/G-5/6
upkowa H-1/2
Lutomierska F/G-3
Macierzanki F-1
Maa A-4
Maachowskiego H-3
Maratoska F-4/5
Marczyskich F/G-1
Marysiska G-2/3
Maszynowa I-4

Matejki H-3
Mazowiecka H-3
Mickiewicza, al.

A/C-7 (F/G-4)
Mielczarskiego A-2
Milionowa G/H-4
Miodowa G-1
Modrzewskiego G-5
Moniuszki C/D-4
Morelowa G-2
Moskuliki H/I-1/2
Nad Niemnem

C/E-3/4 (G/H-3)
C/E-6 (G-4)
Niciarniana H-3/4
Niedziakowskiego F-6
Nowa G-4
Nowe Sady
Nowomiejska C-1/2 (G-3)
Obywatelska F/G-5
Odrzaska F-6
Ogrodowa A/B-1/2 (G-3)
Oklna H/I-1/2
Okopowa G-2
Okrtowa H-2
Okulickiego F-1
Opolska H/I-2
Organizacji WiN
Orkana H-5
Orla D/E-7
Orzelskiej H/I-1
Pabianicka F/G-5/6
Pacanowskiej C-1
Paderewskiego G-5
Parkowa F/G-4
Pawiloska G-1/2
Pieniny I-3
Pienista F-5
Pietrusiskiego F-3
Pisudskiego, marsz., al.
D/E-6/7 (G/H-4)
Piotrkowska C-2/7 (G-3/5)
Piramowicza D-3
Piwnika H-4
Pocka G/H-5
Podgrna H-5
Podhalaska H-5
Podmiejska G-5
Podrzeczna B/C-1
Pogonowskiego A-3/6
Pojezierska F-2
Politechniki, al.
Polna F-2/3
C/E-1 (G-3)
Polskiej Org. Wojskowej
C/E-2 (F/I-3)
Poprzeczkowa G-2
Potokowa I-3
Poziomkw F-1
Poznaska G/H-4/5
Prdzyskiego F-5
Prezydenta H/I-2
Prchnika A/C-2/3
Promienna G/H-2
Pryncypialna G-5/6
Przedwit G-5/6
Przdzalniana G-3/4
Przepircza G-1
Przewodnia F/G-6
Przybyszewskiego G/I-4
Przyjani, al.

Przyrodnicza F/G-2
Przyszkole F/G-5
Pstrgowa F-1
Pszczelna G-1
Pszczyska H/I-3
Pustynna F-5
Puszkina I-4/5
Radwaska G-4
Retkiska F-4
Rewolucji 1905 r.
Rodakowskiego H-5
Rogowska H-1
Rokiciska H/I-4
Rolnicza H-5
Romana G-5/6
Roosevelta C/D-6
R, al.
Rubinsteina, dr, al.
Ruchliwa G-5/6
Rumuska F-2
Rybacka G-2
Rydla H-5
Rydza-migego, marsz.
Rynkowskiej, al.
Rzgowska G/H-5/6
Saaciskiego, pl.
Sanocka G-5
Sawickiego I-1
Senatorska G/H-4
Schillera, al.
Sianokosy F-1
Sienkiewicza D-4/7 (G-3/4)
Sieradzka G-5
Sikorskiego, gen.
Skalna I-3
Skadowa D/E-4
Skodowskiej-Curie A/B-5/6
Skowrocza G-1
Skrzydlata G-1/2
lska G/I-5
D/E-1 (G-3)
Smutna H-3
niena H-2
Solna D-1/2
Sowiskiego, gen. F/G-2
Sporna G-2/3
Srebrzyska F/G-3
Stalowa G-2
Stanisawa F-5/6
Stary Rynek
Stawowa F-1
Sterlinga E-1/4
Stocka G-4
Stokowska H-2/3
Stranicza H-5/6
A/C-5 (F-4)
Strusia G/H-1/2
Strycharska G-5
Stryka H-3
Strykowska G/I-1/3
Strzelecka H-6
wietlana F-2
witojaska F-5/6
witezianki F/G-1
Szenwalda G-5
Szletyskiego, al.
Szternfelda H-5/6
Tagorea G-5
Tamka H-3
Targowa E-4/5
Taternicza H-2/3
Tatrzaska H-4/5

Techniczna I-5
Telefoniczna H/I-3
Teresy od Dziecitka
Jezus, w.
Tomaszowska I-5/6
C/D-4 (G-3)
Trybunalska G-6
Turza H-4
Tuszyska G-5/6
Tuwima C/E-5 (F/G-3/4)
Tymienieckiego G/H-4
Unii Lubelskiej, al.
Urzdnicza F/G-2
Wabrzyska G-2
Walickiego, al.
Wandurskiego H-4/5
Wapienna F-3
Warszawska G/H-1/2
Wedmanowej H-5
Wglowa E-4
Widzewska H-4
Wickowskiego A/B-3
Wiejska H-4
Wielkopolska F-2
Wieniawskiego F-4/5
C/E-7 (G-4)
Wiklinowa F-1
Wileska F-1
Wiosenna G-5
Wioniana H-5
Wilicka I-2/3
Wkiennicza C/D-3
Wkniarzy F-1/4
Wodna G-3/4
Wojska Polskiego G/H-2/3
C/D-1 (G-3)

B/C-3/7 (G-4/5)
Wolnoci, pl.
Wrblewskiego F/G-4
Wschodnia C-1/4
Wycieczkowa G/H-1/2
Wypoczynkowa H-2
Wysoka G-3/4
Wyszyskiego F-4
Zagajnicza G-2
Zachodnia B-1/4
Zamenhofa A/C-6
Zamojska F-5
Zamorska F-5
Zaolziaska G-5
Zarzewska G-4/5
Zacianek Bohatyrowicze
Zbaraska H-5
Zbszyska F-2
Zbiorowa H-4
Zbocze I-3

A/B-2 (F/G-3/4)
Zgierska F/G-1/3
Zgodna G-5/6
ZHP, al.
A/C-4 (F-3)
Zjazdowa I-1/2
lebowa H/I-3
Zmienna H-2
michowskiej H-5
rdowa G-3
ucza G-1
C-7 (F/G-4)
wirowa H-5
Zygmunta H-5/6


A&A Dom Jubilerski
Abracadabra Da Club
Adria 77
All Star Klubokawiarnia
Alte Szil Synagogue
Ambasador Centrum
American Bull
27, 40
andel's Hotel d
Angelo 25
Antykwariat Komiks
Aquapark Fala
Arena Laser Games
Arrivia Bed & Breakfast
Art Museum - ms
Art Museum - ms
ato sushi
Bajka Disco Club
Baucki Rynek
Bardzo Rozsdnie
Bawena 40
Bedroom 35
Bella Napoli
40, 45
Bistro Korzenie
Bloom Boutique
Body Line Group
Bombonierka 66
Bookshop 69
Borowiecki 75
Boutique Hostel
Boutique Hotel
20, 22
Buddha Pub
Bystro 22
Cafe Julian Tuwim w Chatce Ech
Cafe Verte
Campanile 76
Catholic Cathedral
Central Museum of Textiles
Centrum Szkoleniowo Konferencyjne
Uniwersytetu dzkiego
Centrum Wspinaczkowe Stratosfera 46
Cepelia 70
Cesky Film Restaurant & Pub
Chlebak 30
Chopska Izba
Chmielowa Dolina
Church of the Assumption of Our Blessed
54, 64
Cinema City
City Tenis Club
City Tourist Information Centre
Club Shisha Sahara
Concept Store by Lilou
Costa Coffee
Crystal Fashion
Cud Mid
Cud Mid Guestrooms
Cynamon Hostel
Czekolada 35
Decalogue Monument
Delight Restaurant
Dom 51
DoubleTree by Hilton d
Drukarnia Skad Wina & Chleba

Dzika Kaczka
Elite - Whisky & Cigars
Empik 48
Esplanada Kompania Kuflowa
Experymentarium 46
Focus 76
Foto Cafe 102
Fountain of Love
Four Colors
French Potato
Galeria Ars Nova
Galeria dzka
68, 71
Galicja 42
Ganesh 42
Ganimedes 51
Gastromachina Stacja
Golden Bar
Grakula 46
Grand Coffee
Grand Hotel
Green Way
Grupa Fabricum
Gypsy Camp
Hana Sushi
Helenowek Orphanage

EC1 East behind the scenes


Holiday Inn Lodz

Home&Travel 77
Hot Spoon
House of Sushi
Ibis 76
In Centro
Intersport 70
Irish Pub
22, 34
Istanbul Tajmahal
Italica 25
Jaffa 27
Jaracz's Chair
Jazda!Park 65
Jewish Cemetery
Jewish Community Centre
Julian Tuwims Bench
Kamari 21
Karczma u Chochoa
Kebab House
Klub Wino
36, 69
Kokoo 36
Krakowski Kredens
Ksigarnia E. Stompel
Kuchnie wiata
agiewnicki Forest
La Vende

Photo by: Katarzyna Adamek-Chase

January - April 2016



Slice through the ice at Manufakturas outdoor skating rink.

Le Loft
Leon Schiller National Higher School of
Film, Television and Theatre
Let Me Out
Lilou 69
Linat Orchim Dom Gocinny
Litera Cafe
d Kaliska
d Walk of Fame
Lokal 28
Lordi's Club & Foo Foo Bar
Loa Club
Magazyn 82
Magnes 36
Malinowa 23
Maana 29
Manekin 29
Manufaktura Shopping Gallery
Max Ice & Coffee
Mazowiecki 76
Mebloteka Yellow
Meimei 43
Mi Uszatek Monument
MITMI restobar
Mogadishu.store 70
Moniuszko Park
Montag 31
Monument to the 1905 Insurrection 55
Museum of Archaeology and
Ethnography 56
Museum of Cinematography
Museum of Natural History
Museum of the City of d
Museum of the Factory
Museum of the Tradition of Independence
Music Hostel
New York - Music Club
Niebostan 34
NoBo Hotel
North Fish
Novotel d Centrum
Old Havana Cigars & Accessories
Old Jewish Cemetery
Old Synagogue
Old Town Square
Open-air Museum of the d Wooden
Architecture 57
Orthodox Church

86 d In Your Pocket

Oscar's Bar
Otwarte Drzwi
Paleta Bieli
Palm House
Pan Tu Nie Sta
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel
45, 70
Piknik 26
Piwnica Smakw
Piwoteka 69
Piwoteka Narodowa
Pizza Hut
Planetarium EC1
Polka 44
Polonia Palast
Pomodoro 26
Pope John Paul II
Pozytyvka 29
Presto 26
Produkty Benedyktyskie
Przdza Coffee/Bar
Przerwa 24
PTTK - Polish Tourist and Sightseeing
Society 55
Qubus Hotel d
Radegast Station
Rajskie Jado
Restauracja Gronowalski
Restauracja Kolory Wina
Restauracja ania
Restauracja u Kretschmera
Restauracja Woszczyzna
21, 75
Savoy 76
Schupo and Gestapo HQ
Segway Tours
Sendai Sushi
Senoritas Mexican American Restaurant &
Lounge 27
SerVantka 20
Sienkiewicz Park
skySPAce 66
lepy Maks
Slim & Beauty
Smulsko 65
SODA Underground Stage
SPA & Health Club in DoubleTree by
Hilton d
Spaleni Socem
Spektakl 24
Spdzielnia 50

Sports and Tourism Museum of the City of

d 58
Sporty Ekstremalne 4x4
Stacja Nowa Gdynia
65, 75
Stajnia Oleka
Stare Kino Cinema Residence
Statue of Leon Schiller
St. Joseph's Church
Sushi Kushi
wiat Kobiet
wiatowit 76
63, 64
20, 44
Szwalnia Smakw - Sodka Ni
Tadeusz Kociuszko
Tango Argentino Steakhouse
Tari Bari Bistro
Tawerna Pepe Verde
Teremok 28
The Ghetto Bridges
The Lamp Man
The Monument in Commemoration of the
Polish Children Martyrdom
The Red House
Three Factory Owners
Timberland 48
Tkalnia Smaku
Tobaco Hotel
Toscana 48
Tourist Information Point
Victims of Communism
Wiki 65
W. Kruk
Wadysaw Reymonts Trunk
Yes 69
Zajazd Rubin
Zboowa 29
ZET Cafe
Z Innej Beczki
Zota Kaczka
Zoty Imbir
ZOO 66

1905 Revolution
Breakfast 20
Currency exchange
Decoding the Menu
Easter 67
Facts & Figures
Krzysztof Kielowski
Language 12
Market Values
Quick Eats
Rickshaws 31
Rivers of d
The Great Orchestra of Christmas
Charity 6
Tipping Tribulations






at tHe very Heart

Of dreams