A Novel Approach to Improving Sensory Aspects of Natural Formulations

Featuring Amino Acid Based Functional Powder AMIHOPE LL

Ajinomoto Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
ASP0371E-1 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Glowing Natural /Organic Cosmetics Market

2,500

Europe
2,000 Number of Products

1,500

North America
1,000

Asia Pacific
500

2004
ASP0371-2

2005

2006

2007

Latin America Middle East & Africa

Source: Mintel GNPD

AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Free from Cosmetics

Synthetic fragrances Artificial colorants Mineral oil Petrochemicals Alcohol Parabens PEG SLES Silicones .?
ASP0371-3 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Natural / Organic / Free from Cosmetics

Shifting Demands
Natural origin

Sustainability

Vegetable origin

Reliability Comfort

Life style
Green Environmentally -friendly LOHAS

Sensory aspects

Quality
ASP0371-4

Performance
Efficacy

AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Contents
Technical challenges in development of natural formulations Amino acid based functional powder AMIHOPE LL
Characteristics

Benefits of AMIHOPE LL in natural cosmetic formulations

Skincare emulsions Foaming cleansing formulations

How to incorporate AMIHOPE LL into Liquid cleansing formulations

Recrystallized AMIHOPE LL

Summary
ASP0371E-5 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Technical Challenges in Development of Natural Formulations

Viscosity building of liquid foaming formulations
More difficult to increase viscosity of natural surfactants Synthetic polymers are not in the list => difficult to obtain natural(=not jelly) viscosity

Emulsifier
EO-type nonionics are not in the list

Preservation Sensorial aspects

New Technology

Silicone materials, synthetic polymers, quat-compounds are not in the list

=>Emulsions: difficult to obtain smooth spreadability, good absorbency or to reduce stickiness / greasiness =>Hair care products: difficult to obtain good conditioning properties e.g. wet/ dry smoothness, wet / dry combability
ASP0371E-6 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Amino Acid Based Functional Powder

AMIHOPE LL
O N H NH 3+ O O

Chemical Name: N -Lauroyl-L-Lysine CTFA INCI Name: Lauroyl Lysine

L-Lysine

Amino acid based organic powder derived from coconut fatty acid and naturally occurring amino acid

ECOCERT certified natural ingredient

ASP0371E-7 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

AMIHOPE LL Imparts Smooth and Even Spreadability

Lubricity
AMIHOPE LL imparts smooth and even spreadability.
Kinematic frictional coefficient 0 0.1 0.2 0.3 AMIHOPE LL
Polytetrafluoroethylene Boron nitride Talc Mica Nylon powder
ASP0371E-8 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Amino Acid Based Functional Powder

AMIHOPE LL
Characteristics
Excellent lubricityvelvety smooth skin feel Water-repelling property High adhesion property Silky skin feel

Applications
Foundations Other color cosmetics
Main application

Various skincare products e.g. lotions, creams, Finishing haircare products Foaming cleansing products e.g. facial washes, shampoos
ASP0371E-9 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Benefits of AMIHOPE LL in Skincare Emulsions

Improvement of rub-out sensory aspects
Reduces stickiness Natural absorbency

Improvement of dry skin-feel

Reduces excess oiliness of greasiness Feel moisturized without stickiness

ASP0371E-10

AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Benefits of AMIHOPE LL in Skincare Emulsions

Natural absorbency Ideal moisturized skin feel without excess oiliness or greasiness
-0.5 Spreadability 0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0

Rub out
Absorbency Not slippery

Afterfeel
Silky Preference
AMIHOPE LL 0.3% N=9

Control
ASP0371E-11 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0171E

Guide Formulation -1

Natural Night Cream ECJ-33PR

A Emollients* ELDEW PS-203 Stearyl alcohol Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax Glyceryl stearate AMIHOPE LL B Xanthan gum Water C Fragrance D Sodium hydroxide (10% aq.) E Sucrose palmitate F Citric acid + Sodium Citrate + Water G AMISOFT HS-11P (3% aq.) H CAE (1% aq.) (wt) 24.00 total 1.00 3.80 0.10 2.90 0.30 0.20 balance 0.30 1.00 0.40 4.50 total 5.00 5.00 100.00

Sample
Emollient Emulsion stabilizer Viscosity modifier Emulsifier Sensory improvement Emulsion stabilizer

Co-emulsifier pH adjuster Co-emulsifier Preservative

*Squalane, Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) oil, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 5.00 each Isostearyl hudroxystearate, Butyrospermum parkii (shear butter) 2.00 each ASP0371E-12 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Guide Formulation -2

Natural Day Cream NC-0010

A light touch day care cream
(wt%) A Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) 3.0 Emollient Squalane 7.0 Emollient Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 5.0 Emollient Stearyl Alcohol 2.0 Emulsfier Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate 2.0 Emulsfier ELDEW PS-203 3.0 Emollient Sorbitan Stearate 1.5 Emulsfier B Water 70.0 C Xanthan gum 0.2 Emulsion stabilizer 0.1 Preservative D CAE AMISOFT HS-11P 0.1 Co-emulsifier 1.0 Sensory improvement E AMIHOPE LL F Preservatives q.s. G Water balance 100.0
ASP0371E-13 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Benefits of AMIHOPE LL in Foaming Cleansing Formulations

Foamability improvement
Improves speed, volume or quality of the foam

Rinsability improvement
Improves the speed, reduces friction

Dry-skinfeel improvement
Imparts smooth, silky feel to the skin

Opacifying / pearlizing
Imparts Enables addition of conditioning agents with low solubility in water
ASP0371E-14 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Natural Shower Gel

Benefits of AMIHOPE LL
Improves foamability and rinsability Smooth dry-skinfeel
-0.5 0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0

Foaming speed

Foam

Foam volume Shiney foam Rinsability

Dry-skinfeel

Silky

AMIHOPE LL 0.5% N=6

Control
ASP0371E-15 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0181E

Shower Gel

AMIHOPE LL Improves Foamability

AMIHOPE LL improves foam speed and volume.

Without AMIHOPE LL

0.5% AMIHOPE LL 10 sec.

ASP0371E-16

AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0201E

Natural Hair Shampoo

Benefits of AMIHOPE LL
AMIHOPE LL substitutes cationic polymers or silicones in a conditioning hair shampoo.
With 0.6% AMIHOPE LL is better
Finger through Hair smoothness during rinse Detangling Rinsability Wet hair smoothness Preferance
ASP0371E-17 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0191E

Without AMIHOPE LL Is better

Equal

Natural Hair Shampoo

AMIHOPE LL Reduces Wet Friction

AMIHOPE LL reduces friction during rinse.
8.5 Friction (MIU) 8.0 7.5 7.0 6.5 6.0 5.5 0.1 1 Surfactant (wt%, active)
Rinse
ASP0371E-18 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Without AMIHOPE LL

Rough, squeaky feel

0.8% AMIHOPELL

10

Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0221E

Natural Hair Shampoo

AMIHOPE LL Imparts Pearlescent

AMIHOPE LL Imparts Pearlescent Enables addition of high content of conditioning agents which potentially cause clouding of the formulation
Without AMIHOPE LL

0.8% AMIHOPELL

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Technical AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience LaboratoriesData Sheet No.0501-0231E

Guide Formulation -3

Natural Facial Wash Cream NFW-259

A facial wash cream with low active surfactant and high emollient concentrations.
A (wt) AMISOFT CS-22 25.0 Coco-betaine (30%) 2.0 Sodium lauroamphoacetate (32%) 1.6 Glyceryl caprylate 2.5 Propanediol 7.0 AMIHOPE LL 0.5 Sodium chloride 0.3 Citric acid (20% aq.) 3.0 Preservatives q.s. Water balance Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 4.0 Macadamia ternifolia seed oil 4.0 Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (guar) gum 1.5 pH 5.8 100.0 Viscocity 5,000~7,000 mPas
ASP0371E-20

Foaming surfactant Co-surfactant Co-surfactant Foam boosterthickener Moisturizer Foam & sensory improvement Flash foam pH adjuster

Sample

Emollient Emollient Thickener

AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Guide Formulation -4

Natural Hair Shampoo <Pearl> NSPX-0019

A Xanthan gum B Water C AMISOFT CS-22 Coco-glucoside Glyceryl caprylate Arginine C Water D AMIHOPE LL Lauryl glucoside Decyl glucoside Sodium hydroxide Water E Citric acid 30% aq. F Citric acid (wt) 1.00 49.00 10.00 6.00 2.00 0.30 balance 0.60 0.75 0.75 0.18 2.22 1.00 q.s.

Sample
Viscosity modifier Foaming surfactant Co-surfactant Foam booster Foam booster Conditioning & pearlescent

Solubilize LL

pH adjuster

pH Viscocity
ASP0371E-21

5.4 2,000~3,000 mPas

AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Guide Formulation -5

Facial Wash Powder PWT-310

An ultra mild facial wash which imparts excellent silkiness to the skin.
Sample
AMISOFT LS-11 AMISOFT MS-11 Talc Mannitol Zea mays (corn) starch Glucose AMIHOPE LL Agar (wt%) 15.0 15.0 10.0 20.0 23.5 15.0 1.0 0.5 100.0 Foaming surfactant Foaming surfactant Dispersing agent Humectant Vehicle Vehicle Sensory improvement Foam stabilizer

pH 5.5 (1% aq.)

ASP0371E-22 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

How to Incorporate AMIHOPE LL into Liquid Cleansing Formulations

Water repelling property =>difficult to disperse stably in an aqueous solution such as a liquid cleansing formulation, especially when the viscosity is low. How aggregation and separation ( surfacing / settling ) can be avoided ?

ASP0371E-23

AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

How to Incorporate AMIHOPE LL into Liquid Cleansing Formulations

AMIHOPE LL is soluble in a strong alkaline solution. Dispersibility often improves by using AMIHOPE LL solubilizing process. Two Possibility I. Add the AMIHOPE LL alkaline solution to the formulation to neutralize in it. II. Prepare a concentrate of recrystallized AMIHOPE LL and add it to the formulation.
Process I.

Base formulation
Precipitation

Process II.

AMIHOPE LL alkaline solution

Recrystallized AMIHOPE LL concentrate

Formulation containing AMIHOPE LL

ASP0371E-24 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0241E

AMIHOPE LL Solubilizing Process

Dispersibility is Improved
Dispersibility in a liquid cleansing is often improved by addition of solubilized AMIHOPE.
AMIHOPE LL Solubilizing Proces Process I. Process II. AMIHOPE LL direct addition

Natural hair shampoos, 45oC, 1 month

ASP0371E-25 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0241E

AMIHOPE LL Solubilizing Process

More Effective Opacifier / Pearlizer

By the solubilizing process AMIHOPE LL tends to become more effective as an opacifier / pearlizer.
X 400
Without AMIHOPE LL AMIHOPE LL direct addition Process I. 50 m

X 400

50 m
ASP0371E-26 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories Technical Data Sheet No.0150-0281E

AMIHOPE LL Solubilizing Process

Process I.
Part A
AMISOFT CS-22 Sodium lauroamphoacetate Glyceryl caprylate AJIDEWNL-50 Water, preservative Heat with stirring to dissolve =>cool to r.t. Part B: 2% Opaque / Pearl Stir at r.t. Citric acid aq. Opaque / Pearl deepens Stir at r.t.
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0251E Product AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

Part B: alkaline LL solution

AMIHOPE LL 25.0 Sodium hydroxide 5.0 Water 70.0 part

Stir to dissolve at r.t. Clear

ASP0371E-27

AMIHOPE LL Solubilizing Process

Process II.
How to prepare AMIHOPE LL concentrate
AMIHOPE LL Sodium hydroxide Water 12.5 2.7 34.8 Lauryl glucoside(50%) Decyl glucoside(50%) Stir to dissolve at r.t. Clear 30% citric acid aq. Neutralization 20.0 15.0 15.0

Recrystallized AMIHOPE LL concentrate

ASP0371E-28

Add to a base formula

Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0261E AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

AMIHOPE LL in

Natural Cosmetic Formulations

AMIHOPE LL is an amino acid based organic powder derived from coconut fatty acid and naturally occurring amino acid ECOCERT certified natural ingredient. Imparts soft, characteristic lubricity and silky skinfeel. Suitable as sensory improver for emulsions and pearlescent surfactant formulations, particularly for silicone-free / quat-free / synthetic polymer-free, natural skincare or haircare products.
Dosage: 0.1 ~2.0%

The solubilizing process is sometimes effective to disperse AMIHOPE LL stably in aqueous cleansing formulations.
ASP0371E-29 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories