Marks & Spencer

New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

LS STANDARDS LIGHT SEWING LIGHT WEIGHT WOVEN and KNITTED FABRICS (LESS THAN APPROX. 120-15O G/SQ. M)
Blouses, Formal and Casual Shirts & Tops, Light Weight dresses and skirts, and Lightweight jackets, shorts etc.
Stability Wash Fabric category
Machine washable Woven cotton and cotton blends, filament fabrics (incl. those with spun wefts) e.g. polyester, viscose and other man-made fibres. Various other woven blends e.g. Linen, Tencel, Modal, blends, Cotton Velvets, etc.

Thermal Stability P10 Test only applies to woven synthetic with cellulose blends 30 secs. @ 160C L 2.0% W 2.0% Test not required on stretch fabrics

Tensile Strength (weft) P11 All fabrics except spun viscose 18.0kg Spun Viscose (tested wet) 12.0kg Mens and Boys Formal and Casual Shirts All fabrics 20.0kg

Tear Strength (weft) P29 Woven cotton, cellulosics and blends 700g Linen Agree standard with Technologist

Fabric Slippage P12 Method I Original 5.5kg Washed 5.5kg

Note: Where the same fabric is used for heavier apparel, for example trousers, the test and performance standard is: Method II Original 12.0 kg Washed 12.0 kg

Pilling Drum P18A All fabrics with spun fibres e.g. Woven synthetic/ cellulosic blends (spun weft fabrics) Modal and Micro Modal blends 3000 revs Grade C (overall)

Test Code
LS/01 All except mens formal shirts Blouses, Shirts, other Formal Tops, and Light Weight dresses and skirts Mens Formal Shirts

See below for test LS/01 All fabrics except in mens formal shirts MSW (iii) @ 50C
L 3.0% W 3.0%

Menswear
(Formal Shirts only)

MSW (iii) @ 50C L 2.0% W 2.0% MACHINE WASHABLE SILK MSA (i) @ 40C L 3.0% W 3.0%

Hand Wash only e.g. Silk and Silk blends

MSG (ii) @ 40C LS/02 L 3.0% W 3.0%

Light Sewing Woven Fabrics

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Marks & Spencer

New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

LIGHT SEWING FABRICS

Stability Wash Fabric category Code Test P1A MSW (iii) @ 50C STRETCH WARP KNITS Raschel L 6.0% W 10.0% Tricot L 8.0% W 8.0% RIGID WARP KNITS L 6.0% W 6.0% Extension and Modulus P14 (Warp Knits) Snagging Drum P21A Applies to filament, or filament and spun fabrics Standard to be set and agreed with M&S technologist Control production to 15% of mean extension figure Grade 3-4 Report short, medium, or long snags Dependant on test result and end use, the M&S technologist may specify Wear Trial P49 prior to approval

Warp knitted fabics: rigid and stretch

LS/03

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New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

Stability Wash Fabric category Test Code P1A See test detail below

Tensile Strength (weft)

Tear Strength (weft) P29

Fabric Slippage

Residual Extension P15 part 1

Snagging Drum

P11

P12 Method I Original 5.5kg Washed 5.5kg

Note: Where the same fabric is used for heavier apparel, for example trousers, the test and performance standard is: Method II Original 12.0 kg Washed 12.0 kg

P21A

Lightweight filament woven fabrics

LS/04

Synthetic fabrics (for example polyester or polyamide) MSW (iii) @ 50C L 3.0% W 3.0% Triacetate fabrics MSA (iii) @ 40C L 3.0% W 3.0%

All stretch garments Maximum 5.0%

Grade 3-4 Report short, medium, or long snags Dependant on test result and end use, the M&S technologist may specify Wear Trial P49 prior to approval

18.0kg

700g

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New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

Additional tests that may be requested by the technologist

Surface resistivity (polyester fabrics only) P25 1011 Ohms Snagging Drum P21A Grade 4 Residual Extension (stretch fabrics) P15 Part 1 Maximum 5.0% Formaldehyde C18B and C18C C18B: 300ppm maximum C18C: 75ppm maximum

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New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

Additional Tests that may be requested by the Technologist (including promotional claims)
NON IRON WIRA Steam stability Martindale Abrasion Assessment of non iron fabrics and garments P134 and P134A Smoothness DP 3.5 (min.) Smoothness, crease retention and seams (pristine) all 3.5 EASIER TO IRON Ironability of Lightweight Wovens P91 All fabrics except linen: DP 3.5 minimum Linen: agree DP standard with technologist Accelorotor abrasion (velvet and corduroy fabrics only) P26 Pile Fabrics Only 12% pile loss (maximum)

Crease Resistance
P49 (wear trial) 100% Viscose Fabrics, or as requested Visual Assessment agree standard with technologist

Cockling Assessment
P69 Visual Assessment agree standard with technologist

P8 Washable Woven Wool And Wool Blends Only Womens L 3.0% W 3.0% Menswear L
2.0%

P19 Mens Twill Shirts 10,000 revs

W 2.0%
maximum

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New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

TECHNICAL NOTES: WOMENS

Light Sewing fabrics e.g. Blouses, Shirts, Light Weight dresses and skirts, etc. Stability Stability wash is critical in Formal Ladies Tops: higher than stated shrinkage can cause customer complaints this is most critical on close fitting garments. Customer machine wash is the target wash label exceptions e.g. dry clean only, to be discussed with the technologist. Where the test result shows shrinkage above stated standards, discuss fabric, and garment construction, and wear trial assessment, with the technologist. Tensile Strength (Weft) For specialist and delicate fabrics (where fabric fails the test) e.g. devor, a lining may be added and checked through P49 wear trial, then assessed by the technologist. Fabric Slippage The quoted figures are requirements where the tested fabric is used in Standard Seams and not bias cut or French seamed in the garment. Where fabrics do not perform to the quoted standard, suppliers should discuss garment construction (including French Seams and/or lining), and assessed against P49 wear trial (or other garment assessment) with the technologist. Accelorotor Abrasion Tested fabric sample to be visually inspected to examine abrasion.

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New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

TECHNICAL NOTES: MENS

Light Sewing fabrics e.g. Formal and Casual Shirts Stability Stability wash is critical in Formal Mens Shirts: higher than stated shrinkage can cause customer complaints. Where the test result shows shrinkage above stated standards, discuss fabric and garment construction, and wear trial assessment, with the technologist. Linen and viscose fabrics are difficult to get stable, therefore if these figures deviate from the standard, agree standard with Department Technologist.

Seam Slippage Lower performance figures should be discussed with the technologist, to include stronger seam options such as Twin Needle, Lap or French seams (3.5kg slippage is acceptable, subject to P49 Wear Trial to confirm performance). Easier to iron Linen and blends only: DP rating to be agreed with M&S technologist.

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New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

TECHNICAL NOTES: CHILDRENS3WEAR

Light Sewing fabrics

Kidswear Safety Manual: All products to be tested to relevant Performance Standards, and achieve a pass as a minimum.

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