Section VII.

Cutting and Making Cutaway and Frock Coats. The Cutaway Coat Draft The system of cutting here illustrated and explained may be taken to represent the average style of cutaway coat ; this and vest can be cut from 2 yd. of double width material. The trimmings named for the coat are wanted for a cutaway coat, with the addition of two buttons on the hips at that back. The measures are also the same, with the addition of the length of the fashionable waist, which is registered immediately after, and is generally made 2 in. below, the natural waist. Thus the approximate measurements for an average man may be : 36, 32, 17, 19, 35, 7, 18, 31. Fig. 164 shows the draught. First chalk the straight line O O, from which all cross lines are squared, then draw X X. X to is in. ; to 2 is 2 in. ; to 9 is one-quarter breast ; to 17 is the natural waist and in. ; to 19 the fashionable waist and in. ; to 35 the full length and in. ; 2 to 4 is 1 in. less than 1/12 of the breast measure. Square across 2, 4, 9, 17, 35 ; 17 to is in. Draw a line from at top, through , terminating 2 in. below. In measuring across the breast, waist, and shoulder, put the tape on the back seam just drawn. to 3 at neck is 1/12 breast ; is in. above line X X ; curve the neck. From 4 on back seam to 7 is 7 in. Square up at this point and draw back scye, point being in. outside the line, as shown. Draw a straight line from to , then slightly hollow the shoulder seam as indicated. to 2 on waist line is the same width as the back scye. Draw dotted line from 7 to 17. Make a mark on the breast line in. inside the line just drawn. Then draw side-body seam from 7 through to 2 in. below 2 on waist line.
Fig. 164.Cutting Cutaway Coat.

Draw the scye exactly as illustrated, and then the forepart side seam. From 9 on back seam to 20 on breast line is half the breast measure and 2 in. From 20 to 12 is 1 in. less than quarter breast ; 22 is 1 in. from 20 ; to 20 to 16 is one-eighth breast. Square from the latter point up to line X X for the gorge point of shoulder. Draw a line from the latter point to on back shoulder. Measure shoulder seam of back, and make front shoulder seam the same, less in. Draw front scye as shown. Point 3 on gorge is one-twelfth breast from line X X. Draw gorge as indicated. Now measure the waist, to 2, place the figure 2 on the tape on the side body, and measure across to , in this case 7 in. ; place the figure 7 on the tape on the forepart as and measure across to the front, 2 in. more than half the waist measure. Mark the bottom of the forepart at the front 1 in. below the lower waist line. Draw the front of forepart and waist seam through the points made as on the diagram. In draughting the skirt, the waist seam is 1 in. below 1 at the front, and in. below the bottom of forepart at the side seam ; draw the remainder as indicated. Draw S S at right angles with S W. From S to 9 is 9 in. Mark out 1 in. from 9, and draw the curved line as shown, adding in. of round at 1. The front and bottom of the skirt may be drawn to taste ; the diagram shows a medium shape, avoiding both the swallow-tail and the straight front which is the shape usually given to riding coats. Mark the position of breast pocket and buttons on the pattern. The forepart, side body, and skirt are next cut out to the chalk marks ; inlays are not left on the pattern, but on the material itself when cutting out. The sleeve and collar patterns given for sack coat in Chapter VI. serve here ; the remarks concerning abnormalities also apply. Inlays are cut on a cutaway coat

Draw line against and again till a regular run is got, as it is a very noticeable point. The back skirt is drawn as in Fig. 164 ; leave over 1 in. at each side, and slant the two sides of the top. The back can be cut out and placed a little forward on the paper ; rest the shears on the back pattern and the lines must run straight across, or the pattern is useless. Chalk out 1 in. on waist line, in. on breast line, and in. at top of side-body seam. Now draw the line exactly through these points, continuing down to 2 in. below the natural waist line. Draw a line across from 2, the bottom of side body, parallel with the natural waist line. From 9 on back seam across to 9 on breast line is quarter breast and in. As the sizes increase, this is made less than quarter breast. From this point, square down by the breast line to the waist, and mark out in. each side of the line at the waist. The bottom of the side seam is 1 in. above the lower waist line. Finish the outline of the side body, Fig. 164.

at the following places : side seam and shoulder seam of the forepart ; usuals (the inlay left to permit of subsequent alterations or shrinkage) at neck and scyepoints of shoulder of forepart, and at top of side seam of the same ; down the front of forepart for a try-on ; the neck at the back, and the bottom of back skirt ; round the front and bottom of skirt, and about 1 in. along the length of the back pleat. The only inlay on the side body as a rule is a small usual at the top of the body seam, though sometimes an inlay is left on the length of the latter and along the bottom. Cutting the Cloth, Preparing the Canvases, and Ironwork When the coat is cut from the material, put marking threads in all the chalks. Cut the canvases as for the sack ; they should reach 2 in. below the waist seam of the forepart. Damp the canvases and lay or hang them somewhere to dry. Slightly stretch the two foreparts with the iron at the gorge, shoulder, and scye. The marks on the diagram (Fig. 164) always mean that the edge nearest them has to be stretched ; when there is a crinkled line, as at the shoulder of back, it means that the part has to be shrunk. The stretching or shrinking in each case need not exceed in. Stretch the side body as indicated ; many double each side body as for trousers, and stretch the two edges at the waist, at the same time shrinking in the centre, as marked on the side body of the diagram, but this requires very skilful use of the iron. The back shoulder can be put on easy, when basting, without touching it with the iron. Cutting the Facings and Collars, Basting the Side and Forebody Seams Chalk the facings, and cut them from the cloth, leaving an inlay down the front, and not cutting too closely at the gorge and shoulder. The line down the forepart and skirt of the diagram gives an idea of the shape the facing should be. The collars should also be cut, and the under collar made as for a coat. On the right side of each back skirt carefully draw a straight line, running exactly parallel with the line O O (Fig. 164), and starting at in. inside of the lower part of the sidebody seam of the back. Baste the side body to forepart (quarter stitch and seam), making it lie quite even with the latter at top and bottom, and the edge to the inlay.

Basting the Skirt Baste on the skirt so that the seam will come inside, the inlay marks of the back pleat running into the side body at in. from the edge of the latter. Very little fulness is put in the skirts of the body coats ; what there is distributed for 4 in. to the front of the side seam, none being put at the side body. Basting the Back The back should be basted on next, and for a try-on let the seam come outside ; in sewing the round of the side body the back is generally put on rather tightly. The back is put on a little easy at the waist, but if it is basted quite fairly it will not be far wrong. The back is put on a little easy at the waist, but if the side body has been stretched this will not be necessary. Baste down the inlay of the back pleat inside to the marks, laying these against the chalk mark of the back skirt. To make the parts lie flat it will be necessary to make a small niche at the bottom of side-body seam of the back ; then baste the back pleat to the chalk on the back skirt, fulling on the round to fit the straight line. Basting Canvases, Coat Halves, Sleeves, and Collar When the canvases are quite dry, smooth them over, baste, and make 2-in. cuts where the forepart was stretched ; then baste to the canvas whatever padding is required in the finished coat. Baste the facing flat on the canvas, allowing it to be easy across the shoulders ; then the shoulder seam and the inlay of the front and bottom as for lounges ; the edge of the facing should also be turned in if the cloth is not too thick. Baste the back seam down, so that it is on the outside, make a small niche at the bottom of the seam, and finish off strongly. The left back skirt is turned in in. ; then the coat is laid flat, and two or three strong stitches are put where the back tacking will come, the turned-in edge of the left back skirt meeting the pleat of the left skirt at the bottom. Then baste the sleeve and collar, the back pitch of the sleeve being at the top of the side-body seam. First Fitting The baste-up or try-on given above should fit the figure as would the finished garment, but allow for the wadding to be put in the side-body lining. The coat should fit close in the waist ; if the back

skirts overlap at the pleats, take a little off the latter, and if they gape the pleats should be let out. The back or the run of the side-body seam should not be altered if possible to avoid ; if the coat is too large or too small, alter at the forepart. Fitting up and Final Sewing The coat, having been tried on, is ripped to pieces in the reverse order to that in which it was basted, it is smoothed over with a cool iron, and is then ready to fit up. If the front inlay is not to be let out, cut it down to the point on the skirt where the facing meets it, the inlay round the bottom being left as in coats. Cut the facing to fit, and if it is not to made up raw edge take a piece out of the lapel. Cut the back lining 2 in. longer than the back itself, not reckoning the back skirt ; then cut the lining for the back skirt, which is cut the same width, but an inch longer. Next cut the side-body lining the same shape, but a trifle longer, and an inlay and usual may be left round the side-body seam. Then, having chalked the limit of the facing on the forepart, cut the lining for the space that remains ; leave an inlay at the front instead of at the side as in the forepart. Cut the skirt lining a little larger than the space not covered by the facing.

Fig. 165. Pleat Pocket

Preparing Breast and Pleat Pockets Cut the two breast pockets as usual ; the pockets to be put in the pleats are cut as in Fig. 165, the top slanting, as it has to run with the waist-seam. The longer side is the doubled edge of the silesia, and the other forms the pocket mouth at the upper part, so a niche is made at 8 in. down in the four thicknesses of silesia.

Fig. 166.Stay-tape for Ticket Pocket.

Fig. 167.Ticket Pocket.

Fig. 168.Linen Stay for Back Tack. Fig. 169.Back Skirt and Pleat.

Fig. 170.Tacking of Ticket Pocket.

Preparing Ticket Pocket, and Sewing Breast Pocket Having fitted up the coat, baste and sew the side body to the fore-part, then the skirt to both. Before doing the right skirt, sew a piece of stay-tape edge to edge with the skirt and 5 in. along to the front, as a stay for the ticket pocket, as indicated at A (Fig. 166) ; make a chalk mark at C 1 in. from the edge and another at C 5 in. from the edge. Seam the skirt along till C is reached, and finish off strongly. Begin sewing again between B and C, to be opened with the waist seam. Put in the outside breast pocket, and seam the facings, if they are to be pieced. Basting Linen Stay for Back Skirt Pleat A piece of linen 10 in. long and about 2 in. wide is basted down the inlay of the skirt pleat, rather tight and projecting above 1 in. The back should then be carefully basted and sewn, holding it the least bit tightly at the blade, or round of side body, and a little easy at the waist, sewing in the linen of the pleat, and finishing the right back by allowing the back-stitching to open the waist seam at that part ; the left back is commenced from the waist seam and sewn towards the top. Pressing Seams Open All seams should now be pressed open, and the inlay of the side seam stretched a little to make it fit. Making the Ticket Pocket Now take a piece of silesia 4 in. square and fell one side to the waist seam over the stay-tape, sewing it on the skirt, not on the forepart. A piece of the cloth of which the coat is made, also 4 in. square, is side-stitched to the forepart waist seam just over the silesia, but not catching through the outside ; the cloth, which forms the ticket pocket facing, and the silesia are then trimmed level and back-stitched round together as at A (Fig. 167).

Turning and Basting the Back Skirt Pleat The pleats are now turned in as in the baste-up and basted near the edge, then laid on the chalk marks on the back skirt and again basted down near their edge. Baste a piece of linen 2 in. wide across the back as shown at A (Fig. 168). Turn the backs over and chalk down from A to B (Fig. 169), A being in. from the back seam, and the remainder parallel with the pleat D ; put a row of basting in each of the chalks, then put a piece of staytape up each back skirt, its edge to the basting ; it should be put on quite fairly, being neither tight nor loose. Turn in the outer edges of the back skirt ; then baste on the back skirt linings, turning them in at the outer edge and allowing the other side and the top and bottom to lay raw edge. Making Up Breast and Pleat Pockets The pleat pockets are then put in ; a piece of stay-tape is basted to the upper silesia, and the edge of the latter is turned over it. The top and bottom are then sewn up, and the top is thickly basted to the waist seam. When the outside breast pocket is sewn round, baste in the canvases ; tack the pocket ; then tack the ticket pocket, as at A B (Fig. 170). A is 1 in. from the edge, and B 3 in. from A ; the bastings which hold the pocket mouth closed should not be removed till the coat is finished. Pad the Lapels, Seam the Side Lining With a straightedge correct any irregularities along the front of the coat. Pad the lapel, with the usual bridle on, and put a staytape along the edge. Seam the side-body lining to the forepart lining. Pressing the Canvases, Pockets, Lining, and Basting Wadding onto Lining With a hot iron, press the canvas and the pleat pockets ; the linings are creased as follows : Place a piece of stout cloth on the sleeve-board, and, taking one of the side-body linings, crease it longitudinally, the lines being in. to in. apart ; then making a series of similar creases at right angles with the others, and the same width apart, as at Fig. 171, or they may be made diagonally, as at Fig. 172. The lining is then basted on wadding, and a side stitch is put in each corner of the square or diamond to attach the diamond to the wadding. Quilting the side body can be done well by machine if Italian cloth linings are used ; silk and satin quilting must be done by hand.

Fig. 171

Fig. 172

Fig. 173

Fig. 171 and 172Quilting Side Body; Fig. 173Basting in Side Body Lining.

Basting and Sewing the Skirt Lining The skirt lining is basted in flat, a pleat being laid from A to B (Fig. 174) opposite the side seam of the body, from nothing at B and folded over at A about in. Then baste from C to D (Fig. 174) ; then from E on to F, G, and D. The bottom is then turned up, and the lining turned in and basted across the waist just over the waist seam, down the front to the facing, round the bottom in. from the edge, and up the back pleat over the pocket. One of the back linings should next be basted to each back. The lining should overlap the back seam by in. of in. if there is sufficient width, and should be basted down from the top, first by a row of stitches parallel with the back seam and 1 in. from it, then 2 in. from the shoulder seam and back scye. Turn in the edge against the side body and baste just over the seam. Seaming Shoulders and Sleeves Seam up and press open the shoulders ; or they can be pressed when the sleeve heads are done. The sleeves are made and put in as for coats, the hind-arm being pitched at the top of the sidebody seam. The back seam is now seamed down to the niches made in the bottom, and pressed open. Making the Back Skirt Tack To make the back tack, first cut the point off the top of the back skirt, and cut some of the material away underneath, so that the top edge is thin for turning in. Lay the pleats on a flat surface, the bottom of the left back skirt almost touching the left back pleat, as at Fig. 175. Baste them in this position, then turn in and fell the raw edge at the top, pricking each stitch through as in tacking a welt. Continue across the back about 1 in. past the seam ; then return to the starting point by making a row of tacking stitches or side stitches ; these are pricked through 3/16 in. beneath the others. See Fig. 175, in which A is the back tacking, and B, C, D, and E the pleat pocket tackings. Finishing and Pressing The linings are next felled over, the collar put on, the edge stitched and buttonholes made ; then press.

Fig. 174.Lining Basted to Skirt

Fig. 175.Back Skirt and Pleats.

Making up the Facings The facings are made up in the usual manner in this case ; for variation the inside breast pocket is shown wholly in the facing, so the lining can be felled on after the facing is sewn to the coat. The facings are basted on, seamed up, pressed open, and basted over just as in the lounge ; then the side body is basted on the coat, with the seam A R (Fig. 173) exactly over the side seam of the forepart. A row of basting is put down the seam, the coat lying quite smoothly ; another row goes from C to D (Fig. 173), and another from E to F. Then a row is put along 1 in. from the top, and again 1 in. from the waist seam, observing the whole time that the lining is not put in tightly along its length ; its width should be quite fair with the coat. The inlay of the lining is basted to the side-body seam to within 3 in. or 4 in. of the top of the latter. The front part is turned in and basted to the facing, and the lower part is basted to the waist seam.

Frock Coats
Frock Coat Measures and Draft The measures for a frock coat are the same as for a cutaway coat, and a fair-sized frock coat and vest can be taken from 2 yd. of double-width materialusually a fine vicuna. The lapels will have silk facings, and if price allows the coat may be lined throughout with silk. The draught given in Fig. 176, with regard to the back and side body is the same system as for the cutaway coat, Fig. 164, and it is not necessary to repeat instructions. The sleeve, also, is cut as for cutaway coats, and invariably has a buttonhole cuff. The remaining measurements are found as follows (see Fig. 176):From A on back seam across to B is the half of the breast measure and 2 in. Measure up the back at waist, and side body at waist, and place the tape with the figure which those parts amount to on the side seam at C and measure across to D, which is 2 in. more than half the waist measure. E is 1 in. more than one-twelfth breast from F. The gorge and front are now drawn as shown on the diagram. The back pleat of skirt is drawn as for a cutaway coat. The waist seam is drawn as indicated, rising at G in. above the lower waist line, and then descending gradually, a very slight hollow being made. From H, at the bottom of the front of forepart, to J is made 2 in. To get the proper run in front, mark L 2 in. below K, then put the corner of the square at J, and one arm of it resting on L ; the position of the other arm will then indicate the run of the front, which should be continued to the necessary length, from J to M being in. longer than the back pleat N P. Slightly round off the bottom. For the lapel, draw a straight line (R T) the length of the front edge of the forepart, less in. Then mark our 2 in. at the lower part, 3 in. on the breast where the lapel is widest, and 2 in. in a slanting direction at the top, and draw the outer edge as shown. Then cut out the collar. The top buttonhole is usually put at 8 inches from the bottom of the lapel, the lapel is placed against the front edge of the forepart, and the crease edge drawn from the top hole and through V, which is in. from the hollow of gorge ; the usual deviation is made at W, and the front end is made the shape of the top of lapel and 1 in. in width. The usual inlays are left, including that down the front edge of the forepart ; cut the lapel pattern exact, and leave an inlay of about 1 in. down the front of the skirt. This is left on in the making to form a facing. Cutting the Collar and Lapel Pieces In cutting out the collar at the front, make it a good inch longer than the pattern, then, when it is padded and shaped, and the lapel sewn to the coat, the ends can be cut more accurately. The lapels are cut from the doubled edge of the material, and some tailors make this the edge of the lapel by using the iron to bring it to shape. Often it is cut in the following manner: Lay the pattern on the crease or doubled edge of the cloth, then chalk from A to B and on to D (Fig. 177) exact with the pattern, then straight across from C to D in. above the pattern. A pair of these are cut, one for each forepart. Now open the lapel as at Fig. 178 ; then chalk the broken lines as on the diagram, in. from the pattern lines. Now cut through the broken lines A to B, to C ; the two edges thus made are stoated together. The other side, a piece being taken out between D and F (Fig. 178), each lapel being for a different forepart. When stoating the edges, do not let one be fulled on the other ; the larger side may be a little easier than the

Fig. 177

Fig. 176

Fig. 178

Fig. 176Cutting Frock Coat ; Fig. 177Frock Coat Lapel ; Fig.Cutting Top of Lapel.

other, but under no circumstances must the smaller side be so. Marking threads should now be put down the front edge of the lapel, which in one would run from E to G (Fig. 178), and in the other from H to G. Making up (Skipping Basting Instructions) It would be unwise for a beginner to full-baste a frock coat before knowing how it is made ; the baste will, therefore, be dispensed with in this case. Threadmarking and Fitting Up First put marking threads through all the chalks and, if the cloth is not thick, leave the inlay down the front of foreparts ; if the cloth is thick, cut it off. The inlay down the front of the skirt is left on, as already stated, to form a narrow facing. The fittingup should then be proceeded with as for morning coats. The forepart facing is cut right to the front of the edge of forepart ; an inlay may or may not be left on, but it is desirable that it should not be left unless there is a probability of an alteration. Note on Cloth Selection for Facing A first-class frock-coat may have dometta very soft material in the forepart, instead of a cloth facing covered entirely with silk. The expensive silk linings, however, produce a result which cannot otherwise be obtained. Probably it will be more generally useful to describe the making of an ordinary frock. Ironwork, and Seaming Having marked up the coat, stretch the gorge, shoulder, scye, and side body, and sew the side bodies on as for a sack coat ; then put the proper lapel to each front. The stoated edge in each case will come under the lapel, as the smaller side of the lapel is the one which is seamed to the forepart. The lapel should be

Fig. 181 Fig. 179.Basting Canvas in Forepart. Fig. 180.Frock Coat Canvas. Fig. 182

Fig. 183

sewn quite fairly at the lower part, but put on about in. tightly just over the breast. The outside breast pocket is not usual in the frock. Seaming Waist, Preparing Ticket Pocket, Staying Back Pleat The waist seam is next sewn across in the ordinary manner, terminated in front at the marking threads, which should run straight down the lapel and skirt. Put the stay-tape for a ticket pocket on the right skirt ; the pocket should commence 2 in. back from the lapel seam, and be made about 3 in.the usual length. The method of inserting the ticket pocket is the same as that given on p. 143 and 144 for a cutaway coat. Put the usual strip of linen down the back pleat, and then sew the side-body seam. Making up Facings, Pressing Open Seams, Basting Back Skirt, and Making Sleeves The facings may now be pieced and made up, and the inside breast pocket put in the right side. All the seams should then be pressed open, carefully avoiding stretching them. Chalk the back skirts, turn in the outer edges, and baste down the back pleat. Then the sleeves may be made ; they generally have two buttonholes and buttons, sometimes three. The cuffs will have a single stitching on the edge. Formerly back frocks were generally bound. Basting the Canvas The next operation, basting in the canvas, is one of the most important in making the frock coat. French canvas is the best, and it should always be damped over and laid by to dry, as already stated, so that it shall be shrunk before going into the coat instead of after it is made up. It is possible in the case of a fair-sized frock that a collar canvas cannot be taken from the usual yd., as a greater width is required across the forepart ; an extra piece will therefore generally be needed. First mark the canvas round roughly, allowing plenty of width across, so that the two foreparts will have nearly the same quantity in them. Lay one of the canvases on a broad sleeveboard or some flat surface, and put the right forepart on it, the shoulder to the workers right. The selvedge should run down

Fig. 181Canvas Padded to Forepart ; Fig. 182.Stay-tape down Frock Coat Front ; Fig. 183Side-body Lining with Domett and Wadding.

the front, and the lapel seam should be about 3 in. from the canvas selvedge. A row of basting is first put down the front immediately behind the lapel seam, the latter being laid along one of the threads in the warp of the canvas, and the lapel seam kept slightly tight along its length (A B, Fig. 179). Then, keeping the canvas quite flat, baste the two rows C D. Turn over the coat, cut the canvas across from A to B (Fig. 180), and overlap it from in. at A to nothing at B ; cross-stitch the overlapping parts together from A to B, but do not fix it to the cloth. The forepart is again turned over, and, after pushing back the round which is formed on the breast, baste from E to F (Fig. 179), then from G to C, then from G to D. The canvas should fit the forepart perfectly, not loosely. The prominence on the breast which was formed by basting the curved lapel seam on the straight thread of the canvas is provided for by the cut made in the latter. If the canvas does not fall well into the prominence mentioned, take the bastings out, and re-baste until it does. If there is much difficulty found here, baste it with the canvas side uppermost with a rather long padding-stitch, holding the forepart as if it were the lapel of a coat, not allowing superfluous canvas to accumulate on the breast. This is one of many suitable methods. Methods of Basting in the Canvases Some baste the canvas in on the bias to obtain a firm crease for the lapel, but the canvas then is straight at the gorge, shoulder, and scye, and these parts must not be confined. Others cut the canvas down the gorge or through the shoulder, the object in each case being to provide for the prominence on the breast. The canvas is next thickly basted to the lapel seam for about 9 in. up to the bottom. The basting A B (Fig. 179) may then be removed, and a row put in from H to J. The top buttonhole is usually put 8 in. up from the waist seam. Roughly form the crease edge of the lapel by doubling it back and pressing it down with the fingers ; along this crease baste rather tightly a piece of selvedge of some thin stuff, as at A B (Fig. 181), then pad the lapel thickly, allowing it to curl over the fingers, and pushing the canvas slightly forward with the left thumb at every stitch. Fig. 181 indicates the padding, which must not go over the marking threads in the lapel. Treat the other forepart the same.

Trimming Canvases, and Preparing Sidebody Lining The canvas is pared to just inside the marks in the lapel and the front of skirt ; then the stay-tape is put up the front from the bottom of the skirt, as shown in Fig. 182. From the top buttonhole to the bottom of the skirt the tape should be a little tight, but not sufficiently as to draw the edge ; for an inch or two above the top buttonhole put it a little easy ; to the top of the lapel and round to the seam it should be quite fair, then for 2 in. or 3 in. tight enough to draw the forepart a little at the top. Tack the ticket pocket, and put in the pleat pockets. The half of the lapel which has not yet been touched is now pulled over the canvas to see that the edge falls in its proper place on the lapel seam proper ; correct it if required, and then, having prepared the facing, seam the lapel to the latter just as the forepart was done ; make the usual cuts in the canvas at the gorge, shoulder, and scye, and then press the canvas, using a good hot iron on the edge, the pleat pockets, and canvas, preserving throughout the shape of the breast. Also press open the lapel seam of the facing, and crease the side-body lining. To produce a firm sidebody lining, domett, mentioned on p. 150, should be placed under the wadding, and the lining on top. The domett and the wadding should be put through the lining to within 4 in. of 5 in. from the bottom, and continued up to A (Fig. 183), so that when placed in the coat the part A can be basted to the canvas in the shoulder. Thin out the outer edge of the wadding at B, C, and D to avoid a crease forming on the outside of the back. Baste together firmly the wadding and domett. Cutting the Buttonholes The canvas should next be cut away where the buttonholes are to come. The lowest one is generally put in the waist seam, and sometimes 1/6 in. above ; the other two are spaced 4 in. apart. One or two holes are also put in the turn of the lapel in a slanting direction. If there is to be one hole, place it about 4 in. from the top ; if two, the first one should be about 2 in. from the top, and the other 3 in. or 4 in. lower ; but such matters as this depend on the size of the coat and the requirements of the customer. The two holes on the turn are made 1 in. long, and have no head cut out of them. A piece of linen is then fixed to the canvas over the spaces made, and a strip of canvas over the spaces made, and a strip of canvas is basted down 2 in. or 3 in. behind the lapel seam for a button stay. Basting the Foreparts and Lapels, Sewing Sleeves and Collar The foreparts may now be basted over. The edge of the skirt and of the lapel are first basted to the marks. The lapel is basted with rather long padding stitches, and the lower part of the facing at the front is basted to the canvas by lightly felling the lapel seam to it. The remainder of the facing is basted in the usual manner, and the linings are basted in as in a cutaway coat. The sleeves are put in and the back tack is made the same as in a morning coat. The collar is then tried on and corrected, the edges being made to run with the top of the lapel. The collar should be felled on if possible. The lapel being preserved when doing so. At this stage the lapels and collar ends are pressed, as it would not do to press them when the silk facings are on. The lower part of the turn is not usually pressed flat, but simply rolled, but in the upper part the crease edge is pressed dead.

More Notes on Cloth for Frock Coat Facings Corded silk, about 22 in. wide, does for frock coat facings, which should run from the shoulder to the bottom of the forepart and should not be loose ; instructions for putting on facings are given in Chapter VI., so they need not be repeated. The beginner should practice on the facings of old garments with a cheap silk at first, for fear of failure. Fig. 184 shows the finished turn of the frock.

Fig. 184Turn of Frock Coat.

Final Notes In the making of a frock every part should be carefully and skillfully treated. The buttonholes should be as narrow as possible, and the run of the edge, the back pleats, and all the seams should be perfectly regular. Three buttons should be put down each front, as far back from the lapel seams as the heads of the holes are in front. Usually, buttons are bagged onthat is, sewn through the forepart and canvas without catching through the facing.