Abstract:

This project is based on observing and analysing the function of various departments and role of a merchandiser in garment export house. In this project we highlight the detailed processes followed by the departments like sampling department, production department etc. Role of a merchandiser in garment export house is also described; how they get order, manage row materials etc. This research has been developed by collecting secondary data through journal, internet, contacting with the experts and employees working in garment export house etc. By collecting the data through the various sources this research project provides in-depth knowledge about garment export house and role of a merchandiser in export house.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 1

Chapter I Background:
The garments industry in India is one of the best in the world. An extremely well organized sector, garment manufacturers, exporters, suppliers, stockists and wholesalers are the gateway to an extremely enterprising clothing and apparel industry in India. There are numerous garments exporters, garments manufacturers; readymade garments exporters etc. both in the small scale as well as large scale. During April-December 1999-2000, textile exports were recorded as US $ 9735.2 million (Rs.440179.4 million), of which ready-made garments comprised nearly 40%. Interestingly, almost of India's total exports goes to the USA. Indian readymade garments and textiles are extremely popular the world over. In fact, exports of readymade garments registered a 6.4% increase in dollar terms and an 11.6% increase in rupee terms during the period April-December 1999-2000, despite a sluggish growth in income both at home and abroad. Indian Garment export growth during April-June 1998 for woollen readymade garments was a phenomenal 150%. Indian garment exports to the US have touched a figure of $13 billion in FY12 despite an economic slowdown. The overall exports from India in FY12 have touched $300 billion.

Apparel exports reached $ 12145 million in the month of February of financial year 2011-12 with a growth rate of 18.9 per cent against the corresponding period of last year. In February 2012, exports increased by 1.5 per cent against the corresponding month of last year. In rupee terms, the exports have increased by 9.8 per cent in February 2012 over the same month of the previous fiscal.[1] Increases share by 10% in US market, India share down by 3 per cent. For the first time, Bangladesh has garnered more market share than India in garment exports to the US, the largest importer of garments. Recession-hit retailers in the US and Europe are increasing their purchases from Bangladesh as it is able to supply garments at a relatively less price due to low labour cost and better economies of scale, experts said.
2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT) Page 2

For India, the US, which imports $70 billion worth of textile products every year, is the largest market, accounting for nearly a fourth of ready-made garments exported. Bangladesh has now taken the fifth position, which was previously occupied by India, in the list of largest garment-exporting countries to the US, pushing India to the sixth position.[2] In the high-margin global export market for apparel, India is being creamed by competitors such as Vietnam, Indonesia, Bangladesh. While Chinas hold over the US and the EU markets is loosening, India, which was widely seen as in the best position to capitalize on Chinas lost market share, is increasingly being relegated to the position of a supplier of intermediate products to other successful garment exporting countries. In both these key markets, which account for over 80 per cent of the textile and clothing exports from the country, Indias main growth comes from textile supplies, which include intermediates such as yarn, fabric and made-ups. In the high-value clothing and apparel segment, Indias growth clearly trails all of its other Asian rivals. This is evident from the fact that Vietnam, Bangladesh and Indonesia grew much faster than India in terms of supplies to the US market. Vietnam has already overtaken India in terms of supplies to the US (at $5.9 billion in value terms). Indonesia, which was not present in the topfive list just three year back, is now snapping at Indias heels while Bangladesh is not too far behind. In the EU market, India was a distant fourth in terms of supplies (at euro 7.3 billion in value terms), and clocked lower growth than Bangladesh and Pakistan, both of which have concessional duty access to the Union. Despite the stellar show in home textile, analysts say the loss of competitiveness in apparel and clothing segment is grim news as these products entail much higher margins for exporters than home textile products.[3]

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 3

Chapter II Objectives of the internship: To find out study the functions of various departments in an export house. To identify the role and responsibility of a merchandiser in an export house. Research Methodology:
This section would focus on the entire research process which would be adopted in approaching towards the aim and objectives. Research Design The results gained in this report were the outcomes of an exploratory research. Exploratory research is often used on an area that has not been explored much in the previous research. The research has been executed in several steps; first we identify the function of various departments in garment export house. The second step: This involved understanding the role of merchandiser in the garment export house. The last step includes the findings and suggestion according to collected data. Data Collection Secondary Data Collection: All the data is collected by internet, journal and by contacting to expert and employees in garment export house.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 4

Chapter III Literature Review:

Garment Manufacturing follows a flowchart where in each steps definite works are completed to carried out a complete garments. Here I will show you all of the garments manufacturing steps that you must follow to make a garment. 1. Design/ Sketch: For the production of knit garments, or woven garments a sketch of a particular garment including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that after manufacturing of that garment could be verified or checked whether could be done manually or with the help of computer. 2. Pattern Design: Hard paper copy of each component of the garment of exact dimension of each component is called pattern. The patterns also include seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirts and pleats, ease allowance, any special design etc. affairs. Pattern design could also be done manually or with the help of computer. 3. Sample Making: The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in fabric form are used to sew/assemble the garment. Sample garment manufacturing is to be done by a very efficient and technically sound person. 4. Production Pattern: The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production pattern. During production pattern making, sometimes it may be necessary to modify patterns design if buyer or appropriate authority suggests any minor modification. 5. Grading: Normally for large scale garments production of any style needs different sizes to produce from a set of particular size of patterns, the patterns of different sizes are produced by using grade rule which is called grading.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 5

6. Marker Making: All the pattern pieces for all the required sizes are arranged n the paper in such a way so that maximum number of garments could be produced with minimum fabric wastag4e. Markers are made for 6, 12, 18, 24 etc. pieces. Marker is also useful to estimate fabric consumption calculations. 7. Spreading: It is the process of arranging fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width of the marker in stack form. Normally height of the lay/fabric is limited upto maximum six inches high. But 4 inch to 5 inch height of the lay is safe. 8. Fabric Cutting: On the fabric lay/spread the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately, and pinned with the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight knife cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component as per exact dimension of each patterns in stack form, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects. 9. Sorting/ Bundling: After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per size and colour. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern. 10. Sewing or Assembling: It is the most important department/ section of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations. Number of sewing machine per line varies from 20 nos to 60 nos depending on the style of the ga4rmnet to be produce. Production pr line pr hour also varies from 100 to 150 pieces depending on specific circumstances. Number of sewing machine arrangement per line may be upto 60 depending on design and output quantity of garment. 11. Inspection: Each and every garment after sewing passes through the inspection table/ point, where the garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to detect/find any defect if present in the garment. The defects may be for example variation of measurement, sewing defect, fabric defects, spots etc.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 6

if the defect is possible to overcome, then the garment is sent to the respective person for correction. If the defect is not correctionable, then the garment is separated as wastage. 12. Pressing/ Finishing: After passing through the inspection table, each garment is normally ironed/ pressed to remove unwanted crease and to improve the smoothness, so that the garments looks nice to the customer. Folding of the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garments as per required dimension. 13. Final Inspection: It is the last stage of inspection of the manufactured garments on behalf of the garment manufacturing organization, to detect any defective garments before packing. 14. Packing: After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, colour wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with important information in printed form which is seen from outside the cartoon easily. 15. Despatch: The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the despatch department or finished product godown, from where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.[4]

Merchandising in Garment Industry:

A garment export unit generally has many departments like stores, cutting, production, packing, checking etc., in which Merchandising department a linking device of all. The job of a merchandiser is to co-ordinate with the entire department in the office as well as the customers. Merchandiser meets the buyers and collects the details of their requirements etc., to develop the relationship with the customer .A spec sheet (specification sheet) of the garment with sketch, measurement (will be mentioned before or after wash measurements.) and description is received from the buyer with or without sample .A general format of the spec sheet contains the sketch of the garment on the left side and the measurement on the right side. Descriptions of the stitching method, placement and design of embroidery or printing, additional accessories, colour and type of buttons, threads etc. are mentioned at the back side. Additional sheets are added if the garment had more detailed work to do.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 7

Wash care label details are mentioned. Type, size, colour and shape of the buttons are given. Placement of labels, prints, embroidery are given .Packing instructions are also given in this sheet which includes type, colour size of the carton, marks and numbers to be printed on it, poly bags size and details printed on it, clips ,boards, tissue papers, required fold etc., Wash required for the garments will also be mentioned. Detailed study is made from the spec sheet and the raw materials required for sample making is ordered by the merchandiser which includes fabric, thread, buttons, zips, labels, etc., The colour and quality of the things ordered is approved by the merchandiser. Also the merchandiser should contact printing unit, dyeing unit, embroidery unit to make samples of printing, dyeing, embroidery respectively. This is also approved by the merchandiser with the suggestion of the customer.

Sometimes garments will be dyed after stitching, care should be taken while ordering raw materials for this, since the accessories should not catch dying colour. Also the thread used to stitch these garments must be choosy, depending upon the buyers request whether to get the dying colour or not. Ready to dye thread should be used if the thread should be dyed after stitching. Sample pieces are made and sent to the buyer for approval. The corrected samples are made and sent if the buyer required the same. After the sample is approved by the buyer or even before that, costing sheet is prepared by the Merchandiser. In costing sheet, the price of the fabric, accessories, prints etc. per garment is listed and the price is fixed by adding margin. This cost is got approved from the Manager or the person concerned and quoted to the buyer. Purchase order (PO) is received from the buyer which includesPO no/date- Buyer/Consignee- Garment unit

- The description of the garment- L/C date- Last date within which shipment to be reach the destination.- Sign and seal- Order validity date

- Speck sheet After receiving PO from the buyer merchandiser issues BOM (bill of material) for the fabrics, buttons, thread, dyeing unit, printing, embroidery and other raw materials. These raw materials are checked and colour, quality and size approved by the merchandiser. The merchandiser does the capacity booking in the factory, for the production of the garments. This is done to ensure the availability of the machines and operators to produce the bulk garment. The booking is done keeping in the delivery date given by the customer. If the factory is busy with another production, then the merchandiser informs the customer that the delivery date expected by him cannot be met, and also suggests the date when the delivery can be made. After discussing with the production manager, Work Order is issued to all the departments by merchandiser along with the trim sheet. Work order consists of order no and description of the order. Trim sheet is a sheet in which the sample piece of fabric and accessories are stuck and distributed to the entire department for them to be aware of trims used for a certain order. Approved sample piece is sent along with this
2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT) Page 8

work order to the cutting department first from where it passes to all the departments the raw materials pass through. The bulk fabric is sent through the cutting department, stitching department, washing or dyeing unit and then the packing department. As per the requirement printing or embroidery is done after stitching or cutting. In packing department merchandiser checks and approves a piece for the type of packing and the packing materials are selected according to the buyers specifications. The carton thickness, size, colour etc., are instructed by the merchandiser to the packing department as per the buyers requirement. Number of pieces to be packed and the marks and numbers to be printed on the carton is instructed by the merchandiser according to the specification of the customer. A packing list is prepared by the Merchandiser with all the packing details mentioned in it and given to the packing department. The garments are inspected at all stages of stitching by the quality controller present in the factory with the suggestions given by the customers quality controller. The garments are randomly inspected at various stages of production, but at the final inspection the garments are inspected 100% for quality. Thus a merchandiser plays a very important role in the garment industry[5] Qualities of Merchandiser:

1. Communication Skill: The communication is very much important to promote the business activity. The merchandiser should remember that communication must be lurid and should having face to face conversation with the buyer. 2. Planning Capability: Merchandiser should be capable of planning, based on the planning the order is to be followed. If the planning is not done properly it will directly affect the delivery time of the order. 3. Decision making: For a Merchandiser, decision making power is most important. He should think about the decision to be taken and to act in a right way. 4. Loyalty: Loyalty is an essential character of human beings. Especially for the business people like merchandiser it is a must. 5. Knowledge about the field: Merchandiser should have adequate knowledge about the garments, Computer knowledge, and technical knowledge to communicate with different people in the business is a must. 6. Co-ordinate & Co-operate: Merchandiser is the person who is actually co-ordinate with the number of departments. To Co-ordinate with different people in the industry he should be co- operative. 7. Monitoring ability: Merchandiser should monitor to expedite the orders. 8. Other qualities: Education, Experience, Situational Management, Ability to Evaluate, Dedication, Knowledge of expediting procedures.[6]

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 9

Chapter IV COMPANY PROFILE:

Shivank is one of the fast growing Manufactures & Exporters of Ready-made Garments & TShirts from India. It is a great futuristic vision of Mr. K.K Aggarwal, the chairman of the company. Set in 1982, it has grown at an enviable pace and is today placed in the select textile oriented companies. The company undertook the responsibility to manage the composite set up with its existing set up already functional and some important addition plan to make it the best plant in the region. Shiva International is a professional managed group and attracts best talent. The company is run by Mr.Sandeep Aggarwal, Mr.Ashish Aggarwal & Mr. Shyam Aggarwal sons of Chairman (Mr K K Aggarwal). They Share the vision of their father and look forward to make their place in Textile world. This company has only two units one in GURGAON and other one in MAYA PURI, DELHI UNIT NO 1 AT GURGAON IN THE NAME SHIVANK UDYOG LTD. 671-673, PHASE V, GURGAON TEL NO: 0124-4550600-630(30LINES) FAX NO.:-0124-4004660 E-MAIL:-ashish@shivainternational.com

UNIT NO 2 HEAD OFFICE IN THE NAME M/S SHIVA INTERNATIONAL. A-37/2, MAYAPURI INDUSTRIAL AREA, NEW DELHI 110064. (INDIA) TEL NO: 28115350, 28115260 FAX NO: 28117616

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 10

SHIVANK UDHYOG LTD (UNIT NO 1 AT GURGAON) (STATE OF FACTORY WITH ALL COMPLIANCES) FLOOR AREA 47000 SQUARE FEET EMPLOYEE STENGTH 700(both male and female)

MACHINES JUKI SEWING MACHINEJUKI COMPUTERIZED LOCK STITCH MACHINES OVER LOCK MACHINES PEGASUS/JUKI ( SIX/FIVE/FOUR THREAD) JUKI FLAT LOCK MACHINES JUKI COMPUTERIZED LOCK STITCH BUTTON JUKI EDGE TRIMMER MACHINES -

TOTAL NUMBER 340 15 20

03 04 04 02 02 01 01 01 50Kg CAPACITY 50Kg CAPACITY 24

JUKI COMPUTERIZED BAR TAG MACHINES JUKI FEED OF ARM MACHINES KANSI PICOTING MACHINES KANSI ELASTIC INSERTION MACHINESHASHIMA FUSING MACHINE DRY CLEANING MACHINE WASHING MACHINE DRYING TUMBLER STEM PRESSING TABLES -

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 11

HIERARCHY OF THE ORGANIZATION:

MANAGING DIRECTOR MANAGING DIRECTOR (Mr.K. K AGGARWAL) (Mr.K. K AGGARWAL)

DIRECTOR MR. ASHISH AGGARWAL

DIRECTOR DIRECTOR MR.SHAYAM AGGARWAL MR.SHAYAM AGGARWAL

4 MERCHANDISER

1 DESIGNER

4 MERCHANDISER

1 DESIGNER

1)FABRIC MANEGER

3)CAD DEPARTMENT

5)PRODUCTION MANEGER

7) QUALITY ASSURANCE MANEGER

2)TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES MANEGER

4)SAMPLING UNIT

6)FINISHING HEAD

PATTERN MASTER, MEASURMENT CHECKER BUTTON THREAD CUTTING

TAILOR STAIN REMOVER

8)DOCUMENTATION EXECUTIVE

PACKEGING

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 12

LIST OF CLIENTS:

ITALY SPAIN

: - Benetton, Brums, , Montefiore etc. : - Stradivarius(Inditex), Egatex, Bershka(Inditex Groups), Spring field+Women secret (Cortefiel group) etc.

U.K

:- Next, George, etc.

FRANCE

:- Kiabi, Zannier group, Pimkie, Major, Carrefour ,etc.

U.S.A

:- Anthropoliy, Spigel group , Sainsbury etc.

DANMARK :- Femal

Brunns Bazar

VENDORS LIST:

FABRICS

-Tirupati fashion house,Gurgaon,HARYANA - H.P Singh, Nehru Place,New Delhi -Textures, Nehru Place,New Delhi

TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES

: Monofilament : Avery dennision : Chandni chowk : China

. HANGERS : Erum hangers(local vendor)

CARTOONS

:Local vendors

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 13

ITEM OF PRODUCTION:

Shivank udhyog ltd is specialized in ladies wear n kids wear.

LADIES One piece dress Tops T-shirts Tunics Trouser Jackets Skirts Scarves Night wear

KIDS Tops Frocks Tunics Nighty Night suits Inner wear

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 14

INTRODUCTION TO MERCHANDISING:

The textile and garment industry is booming in India, especially after elimination of the global quota system. Presently India is exporting garments to more than 100 countries including US, EU, Latin America, and Middle East. Last year, garment export was nearly $5000 million and about 1200 million pieces. The main competitors of India are countries like China, Korea, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Malaysia, and Sri-Lanka.

The Indian garment industry is gaining ground in the world market at very high speed, but still not flourished at its full extent. Although the resources are available plentiful with a powerful foundation of fabric and spinning sector to support.

But the main problems in development to garment industries are

1. Low technological development, 2. Lower output, cut throat competition, 3. High raw material cost, 4. Inadequate infrastructure 5. Traditional productivity, 6. Unfavourable regulatory policies, 5. Globalization impact.

However, there is a fair list of the producers, suppliers, and exporters that are fully acknowledged with regulatory policies and formalities, international marketing policies and procedures. The only concern is in executing their productivity initiatives, and meeting with order deadlines.

Now days, major companies are adopting merchandising concepts, which comply with all procedures to execute and dispatch the shipment on time, considering quality, cost and time. Merchandisers are serious in the success of any garment retail business. They provide the right products at the right time, enabling a company to match with latest market trends and meet the market demand. Time management is the key factor in merchandising concept

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 15

Today's garment merchandisers have to move with frequent changes in demand and the developing technologies utilized in manufacturing and production. To find out customer requirements, they regularly visit retail outlets, and come up with latest updates from frontline staff. In order to keep an eye on developments in sourcing, site visits are made every week to mainland factories to meet suppliers and study production.

In garment merchandising, there is no specific rule, so it's important to be able to think on one's feet.

ROLE OF A MERCHANDISER IN A EXPORT HOUSE DESIGN DEVELOP WITH DESIGNING TEAM PROTO DEVELOP

COSTING
SALES SAMPLE

ORDER RECEIVED
SOURCING OF ROW MATERIAL

FIT SAMPLE
SECOND FIT IF REQUIRED

SIZE SET SAMPLE PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE FILE HANDOVER TO PRODUCTION

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT) Page 16

There was 8 merchandiser in shivanks merchandising team. The foremost work of the merchandiser is to have a discussion with the buyer. After that the merchandiser receives the tech pack and purchase order from the buyer, which contains, specific details of the particular samples.

The merchandiser study the tech pack thoroughly and order the required trims accessories and fabric 4rm the selected vendors.or send people for sourcing into the local market After that the merchandiser gives the copy of tech pack to the pattern master.so that the pattern master could make the patterns .after pattern making it goes to the stitching masters and finally for packeging. PROTO SAMPLES Merchandisers first prepare 3 proto samples, one for the buying house, second for the buyers and the third sample is known as counter which is kept by merchandisers for further use and record keeping. COSTING After making the proto samples, costing of the samples is done. Costing is done according to the following aspects: fabric consumption + trims and lace consumption + stitching charges+overheads+10% profit = cost of the garment. SALESMAN SAMPLE When the proto sample is approved, Salesman sample is made on the basis of received technical comments on proto. Purpose of salesman sample is to measure the demand of the style in market and book the order accordingly. This helps the buyer to avoid excess purchase. PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLES Pre-Production sample is also called as PP sample. Order is confirmed after the approval of PP sample. We send PP sample in by using all the material which we are going to use in production.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 17

ORDER CONFIRMATION After completion of costing, the merchandisers gives the tentative cost of the sample to the buyer .If the buyers like the sample then negotiation in price is done by the buyer and the merchandisers. After that the buyer confirm the order ,by giving a final purchase order to the merchandisers with all specific details. FIT SAMPLE After the order confirmation, the merchandiser prepares the fit sample for the buyers (Always in base size or M), where the measurement of the sample, placement of the accessories seams etc. is taken care of. After making the fit samples, the merchandiser send it to the buying house. And the buyer sends its view and comments to the merchandiser. SIZE SET Size set sample covering all sizes and colours (same style) must be sent as soon as you get Start Production (SP) for the garment.

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Designing and sampling are the main process in Garment Industry and it as a vital role in attracting buyers. Because the buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of the samples. The samples decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will access the exporter and his organisation only by the samples. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and with optimum quality. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk orders and also give some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling only the exporter can optimize the processing parameters for mass production, which helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks. All these works are carried out by the sampling department, which us led by a sampling in charge.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 18

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT OF SHIVANK

4 merchandiser

4 merchandiser

2 sample pattern master

3 sample cutting master

12 sample stitching master

2 people for thread cutting

2 people for final measurement and stain remover 1 person for ironing and packaging

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 19

Shivank has 8 merchandisers in total ,4 of them are under Mr.Shayam Aggarwal(director) and another 4 is under Mr.Ashish Aggarwal(director). There are 2 pattern master for the sampling department .Their main work is to make pattern for the sample which is given to them by the merchandisers. Pattern master also helps in taking out the average of a particular sample for its costing. There are 3 cutting master under the sampling department, and their main work is to cut the fabric according to the pattern, which is given to them by the pattern master. After that the fabric goes to the stitching master. There are 12 stitching master under the sampling department, and each and every one has 5 to 6 years experience in the industry. Then the fabric goes to the thread cutters, there was two ladies in the thread cutting and stain removing section. And their main work was to cut the excess thread, and to remove the stain of dirt from the sample to make the sample look clean and tidy. After that the sample goes for the final measurement. There was two people for the final measurement and checking in the sampling department, Labels and tags are also put by the people of checking and measurement department, with the help of a tag gun. And finally the sample goes into the ironing and packaging department.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 20

PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

Received Production File

Planning and R&D

Read comments by file Pattern Checking(2 pcs in base size) Operation Bulletin Line PLan

Pilot /Initial Inspection

Go Head with the Production

Cutting Sewing Finishing Packeging

On-Line Inspection

Mid-Line Inspection

Final Inspection

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 21

Operation Bulletin The data includes time taken for each sewing operation and includes pick, sew and drop for each operation. Standard allowances for fatigue etc. are added to each of the timings. Finally, a set of operations are combined to form an operation bulletin. Such bulletins are prepared for each garment. In Asian countries, standard time is generally referred to as Standard Minute Value (SMV), while in North America it is referred to as Standard Allowed Minute (SAM). A sample production bulletin is shown below: Line Plan Line planning is a schedule and allocating of orders to production lines according to product setting (product is being made in the line) and due date of production completion. A line plan defines when a style is going to be loaded to the line, how many pieces to be expected (target) from the line and when order to be completed. During booking orders or allocating orders to the production lines, planners must check what is running on the line and how many days it will take to complete the running style. Benefit of Line Planning: It helps production manager as well as line supervisor with information such as what is the daily production target for line. They set their line (machines and manpower) accordingly. Initial Inspection This inspection shall be performed on the initial stage of the production where 5% completed (or) 20 to 50 pieces are ready and verified against almost all basic product specification. Mid Inspection: This inspection shall be performed at the stage of production where 40 to 50% of the ordered quantity covering all colors and all sizes are ready and see the initial discrepancies have been duly attended and a correctives measure has been implemented and also checked for workmanship and packing. Final Inspection: This inspection shall be performed at the end of production where goods are ready for shipment in fully packed condition as per contractual requirement.
2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT) Page 22

Cutting Department Fabric and Pattern Received

Pattern and Average Checking

Layer Start

Cutting

Sticking,Fusing and Bundeling

Pattern Checking Pattern is checked according to sample or buyers measurement by the quality checker (QC) of cutting department. They cut 2 pieces in every size for pilot run. Fabric Average Check Cutting department tally their fabric average to merchants fabric order quantity. They make Mini Marker to check average. Mini Marker is made for every fabric quality used in the garment in its various parts. If average is found Ok then they start to spread layer. Finally they start cutting and check it with master copy of pattern then they bundle all parts and send those parts for sticking. Sticking If there is any kind of extra work (Embroidery) in any part of the garment so first they stick numbers to each part at their back side and then send those parts for embroidery.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 23

Fusing If fusing is required in any garment then first they send fusing for testing (composition, temperature required to fix fusing) after that they use that fusing. Bundle the garments in 10 pcs of bundle. Equipment Used in Cutting

Straight Knife: It is used to cut fabric for bulk production.6 to 8 inches blade is fixed in it and operator has to wear iron gloves for his safety.

Band Knife: Band knife is used to cut small parts of the garments to give them better shape.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 24

Fusing Machine: It is used to fix fusing in garments. Every fusing quality has its own temperature standard which is required to set fusing properly.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 25

SEWING DEPARTMENT
After bundling, all the parts are sent to the sewing department. A line is set according to the operation included in the garments. All the machines which are needed are set in the line accordingly. Below is the example of how garment is made according to line setting.

Neck Binding Joint (Single Needle)

Neck Stitch Round

Lining and Bead Attach

Back and Front Yoke Attach

Front and Back Yoke Overlock

Neck Stitch

Neck Overlock

Neck Chain Stitch

Match Sleeves

Sleeve Attach

Side Joint Sleeve according to measurement

Side Seam Overlock

Bow and Main Label Joint

Main Label Attachment

Hanger Loop Attachment

Wash Care Label Attachment

Sleeve and Bottom Fold

Ready Garment after Sewing

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 26

Finishing and Packaging

Thread Cutting

General Checking
Stain, Cut, Stitch etc.

Alter
Stitch, Mending etc.

Pressing

Final Checking (Overall)

Measurement

Refinal

Folding and Packing

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT) Page 27

Thread Cutting (Manual)

Spotting (gun)

Pressing

Measurement Check (Manual)

Tags Attachment and Packaging

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 28

Fabric Department P.O Received

Cut Sample Received

Fabric Match

Dying House (Lab Dip)

Sent to Merchant for Approval

Bill of Material

Yarn Order

Knitting

Dying(Approved Color)

Fabric In house Testing

Width, GSM, Color Fastness, Shrinkage Visual Test (Stain, Whole, Slough etc)

Cutting

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 29

Lab Dips A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. There are different matching systems followed in Labs such as Tube light matching, Sun light matching, Ultra Violet matching, Sodium light matching etc. It is the merchandisers responsibility to get the Lab dips from the processing mill and to get approval from buyer. There are different matching systems followed in Labs. They are

Tube light matching. Sun light matching. Ultra Violet matching. Sodium light matching (show room). Each of these above matching will give different results. For example, if a lab dip matches to the original in tube light, it will differ in sun light. So the lab dips are to be made according to the buyers matching system. Different buyers follow different matching. Hence before proceeding lab dips, merchandiser should be aware of the buyers matching system. Accordingly he should arrange to make lab dips. Also he must be sure of making the lab dips in the actual production fabrics. It is better to make lab dips in more than 3 closer shades. (Some times, the processing factory will make lab dips in 2 shades and will make them in to 4 bits. If we send the same to buyer and if buyer finds out this, he will think that he had been cheated purposely by the merchandiser. Our reliability will get questioned here). While making lab dips, the lab in processing mill will have the recipes noted. They will give different reference numbers to different lab dips. Accordingly each lab dip will have different reference number. When sending lab dips to buyer, the merchandiser should keep one set of counter lab dips with reference numbers. He must be sure that the reference numbers mentioned to buyers set are the same in his counter set also. It is advised to follow the same reference

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 30

numbers by everybody processing mill, merchandiser and buyer. This will help to avoid confusion when processing Bill of Material A bill of materials (sometimes bill of material or BOM) is a list of the raw materials, subassemblies, intermediate assemblies, sub-components, components, parts and the quantities of each needed to manufacture an end product. No physical dimension is described in a BOM

Fabric Testing
Rub Test

Standard cotton fabric is rubbed against the surface of colored textile specimen to check the transfer of color.

Specimen to be tested is clamped on base plate. Crocksquare (Standard cotton fabric) is mounted on rubbing finger. Rubbing finger is moved against the fabric surface for defined number of cycles. Crocksquare is removed from rubbing finger. It is conditioned and then evaluated for staining using grey scales.

In case of wet rubbing, the crocksquare is wetted with water and rubbed against the specimen in the same way as mentioned above.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 31

Multi-Fibre Test We wash a multi-fibre fabric with the specimen to test the color fastness. Fabric consists various kind of fibres in it like cotton, nylon, acrylic etc. By this we can test the color fastness of the specimen with every type of fabric while washing. Visual Test Visual test is done manually in which stain, whole, slough etc. is checked. This test is measured by the 4-point fabric inspection system. 4-point Fabric Inspection 4-point fabric inspection system is a method of visual inspection of fabric which is based on the points given according to the defects in the fabric. Defects include broken stitch, slough, crack, stain and hole/cut. Maximum points allowed for individual roll: 40 points/ Sq. Yards Average Maximum points allowed in shipment: 28 points/ Sq. Yards Defect Range Below 3 3 to 6 6 to 9 9 and over Any Whole Defect Point 01 02 03 04 04

Formula Used to find Average point = Defect Point * 36 * 100/ Total fabric length * Width

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 32

Washing Department

Cut Planning Length(CPL)

To avoid shrinkage problem fabric is kept in water

Hand Feel

Silicon is used to give better texture to the fabric.

Enzym Wash

Fabric is kept at 600 hot water for 1:45 hour.

Stain

Ink- Acitone Dye- Anupam, Chemithine Yellow- Rungcard, Replex Tracing- Hydro, Afzali Bleach in water If time increases then it becomes white

Ready for Dying(RFD)

GSM Increase

Sharpner

Pilling

Bio-wash

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 33

Project Assigned In Shivank Udyog Ltd.

Inditex runs over more than 5,527 stores worldwide and owns brands like Bershka, Oysho, Pull and Bear, Mussomi Dutti, Stradivarius, Zara, Tempe and Uterqe, and also a low cost brand Lefties. The majority of stores are corporate-owned; Franchises are only conceded in countries where corporate properties cannot be foreign-owned (in some Middle Eastern countries, for example). The group designs and manufactures almost everything by itself, and new designs are dispatched twice a week to Zara stores. Inditex headquarters are located in Arteixo, a small industrial town in the metropolitan area of A Corua, Galicia, in northwestern Spain. Originally almost all merchandise was manufactured there. Now most production has shifted to low-cost labor countries such as Morocco and China. In addition they have another factory mainly responsible for shoe design, production and distribution in Elche, a well-known town of the Alicante province on the Spanish Mediterranean coast In the 90s, Inditex began creating or acquiring subsidiaries to manage different collections: Bershka, Pull and Bear, Massimo Dutti, and Stradivarius. In May 2001, Inditex turned into a publicly-traded company, being valued at $8 billion (9 billion at the time) Brands of Inditex Group

Zara - This is the flagship chain. It encompasses many different styles, from daily clothes, more informal, to the more serious or formal, through dresses and suits for festival events. Fashion for women, men and children.

Kiddy's Class - Also named Zara Kids. Kids Clothing from 0 to 14 years old. Pull and Bear - This brand focuses on casual, laid-back clothing and accessories for young people with a very urban style, at accessible prices.

Bershka - Starting in 1998, this store began distributing fashion for girls, and, more recently, for boys too. It also has a youthful style, although not as urban as Pull & Bear.

Massimo Dutti - The highlights of this chain are more elegant, classic and studied designs, for daily and formal clothes. It is more expensive than the rest of stores of the group. It offers fashion for women, men and, recently, for children.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 34

Stradivarius this brand has an innovative concept in fashion, targeting young women with clothing garments and accessories.

Oysho - Offers lingerie and women's underwear (but also includes pyjamas, accessories, bathing suits in the summer and more) and includes collections for little girls and babies.

Zara Home - This chain offers interiors, utensils for household furnishings, accessories, kitchenware and Zara Home Kids (for children).

Uterqe - This is the latest addition to Inditex. It offers accessories such as shoes, handbags, jewellery and sunglasses. The intention is to present a sober image, inspired by the English clubs, but at the same time a clear and modern ambient. More costly than the group's other brands, except Massimo Dutti, it still aims to be price competitive with the big brands in the market.

Tempe - Tempe is Inditex Group's footwear company. From its International Centre in Alicante, Tempe designs and distributes the footwear that accompanies the fashions of all its brands.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 35

Company

No. of shops (January 31st, 2012)

Year of creation

Zara

1631

1975

Zara Kids - Kiddy's Class

199

2001

Bershka

811

1998

Pull and Bear

747

1991

Massimo Dutti

573

1995 (acquired)

Stradivarius

684

1999 (acquired)

Oysho

483

2001

Zara Home

310

2003

Uterqe

89

2008

Tempe

2011

Total

5527

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 36

In this chart we can see the excellent progress of the groups sales in recent years worldwide. [7]

Stradivarius
Stradivarius was developed in 1994 as a family owned business with an innovative concept in fashion in Barcelona, Spain. However, Stradivarius joined the Inditex Group in 1999 and, currently, the brand is present in 46 countries with more than 600 stores all over the world.

SWOT Analysis Strength:After sales advantage Low prices Low advertisement cost Weakness:In the centre of the city Medium quality Distribution centres

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 37

Opportunities:Expanding globally New points for sales Increase the sales Threats:Very competitive Current economic Demanding customers

STRATEGIES Low prices Make new desings Produce more buy more look modern low costs

Styles in Shivank Udyog Ltd.

# 6504/051 Color: Ecru/ Black Fabric Composition : 100% Cotton Order Qty: 18000 pcs

# 6511/076 Color: Make up pink 148 Fabric Composition: 100% Cotton, Viscose Moss and Cotton Voil Order Qty: 12000+3000 Pcs

# 6514 Color: Black/ Make up pink Fabric Composition: 100% Cotton and PU Order Qty: 24000 pcs

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 38

Samples Required by Stradivarius Fit Samples: Fit samples are sent to buyer for approval. These samples must be sent as soon as we get comments from Quality controller for previous sample (within the following 2 and 3 days) always in Size M. In case of any delay due to special fabric , trimming etc, we need to inform buyer immediately. Size Set: Size Set sample covering all sizes and colors(Same Style) and must be sent as soon as we get Start Production(SP) for the garment. Colour Sample: In case of repeat order in New Colour, 1colour sample is to be sent as soon as we get colour approval. We have to send this sample always in Size M. Shipping Sample: We must send 1 piece from production line for each style and color in Size M. Buyer Sample: 2 pieces per color in size M(Same Style) must be sent along with Size Set as soon as we get the approval for SP. AZO Sample: 2 pieces per color and PO(Same Style) must be sent for AZO testing as soon as we start production for one PO. AZO sample must be sent not only by style, also by PO from production line.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 39

Style 6511/076: Process

Received Tech-pack and Design Costing First Fit Sample for Approval Lab dip for Approval Second Fit Sample AZO Sample Size Set

Inspection
In and On line Inspection Mis Line Inspection Final Inspection

Buyer Sample Shipment Sample

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 40

Above is the process of the style 6511/076 which starts with receiving the tech-pack file and design from the buyer. Below are the details.

Style No Color Season Fabric Quality 1

6511/076 148 Make Up Pink Winter 12-13 Composition:100% Cotton Slub Construction: Single Jersey 120 GSM (Body & Sleeves) Composition:100% Viscose Moss Construction: Woven (Shoulder Yoke) Cotton Voil 80*72(Lining) Matching tone with fabric Beads: Gold and Milky White Transparent Cut dana

Fabric Quality 2 Fabric Quality 3 Thread Embellishment

After receiving the above details we started to arrange materials required to make first fit sample like fabric, trims etc. Our first fit was approved for fabric quality and design. Now we had to send the sample again with the given fabric color(make up pink 148) and beads, and with small rectification in measurement. We also sent lab dip with this sample. After sending the second fit sample we got Start Production(SP). We made purchase order for the all materials after getting the SP and hand over the file to the production department. We sent all the remaining samples like size set, AZO sample etc, on time when required.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 41

N1 Findings
Explored the various samples required in garment industry and their importance at different stages. Company was manufacturing garments of both knitted and woven so I gained knowledge of the fabrics. To avoid defective fabrics company is using 4-point fabric inspection system. In production department they make Operation Bulletin and Line Plan. Other tests such as shrinkage tests, colour fastness tests, azo free tests are done according to the buyers requirement. Company need to do inspection during the manufacturing process of garments.

N2

Conclusion
The role of merchandiser in textile industry has been vital since the beginning of the trade. This is merchandiser who brings business to the organisation. Merchandiser develops various samples (proto, salesman, PP etc) for the buyer to get approval. He takes approval of all the row material which will be used in the garment like fabric, trims etc. After approval work is divided to the various departments like fabric store, accessories store, production department etc. Coordination with the all department is very important to avoid defects and meet the deadline of the shipment because buyers are very conscious about quality and delivery time. All the departments makes plan and finish their work on time like production department make operation bulletin and line plan to save time and use maximum efficiency. So we can say garment export must be very much organised to make good relation with the buyer.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 42

N3 Recommendations
Flexible timing for merchandiser to work Intern company relation need to be managed to send shipments on time those who gives short time period for delivery date Co-ordination among the departments should be improved more (like merchandising and sampling). Supply chain must be more stronger Should not hire more contractual workers because they are not bother about the company Every test should be done as per international standard as well as buyers requirement.

Limitations
Due to constraints in time and resources, it was impossible to go through all of these factors in detail. The flow chart has been made in consultation with merchandisers and employees of other departments; it is prone to human error. It was not possible to get confidential information.

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 43

References:
http://articles.economictimes.indiatimes.com/2012-04-17/news/31355512_1_apparelexport-promotion-council-rupee-terms-indian-garment-exports http://www.rediff.com/money/2009/feb/05bdesh-pips-india-in-garment-exports.htm http://www.indianexpress.com/news/indias-apparel-export-losing-to-smallercompetitors/933204/ http://articles.textileclass.com/garments-manufacturing-sequence/ http://www.scribd.com/doc/51310835/role-of-merchandiser http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/23/2230/garment-merchandising-andexport-procedures1.asp http://oribe90.wordpress.com/tag/inditex-spain-fundametal-analysis-target-price-zarabershka-oysho-stradivarius-hm-hennes-mauritz-dividend-buy-earning-per-share/

2012. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (NIFT)

Page 44