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Shattered by the New Orin Swift! (Page 24) Introducing Julien Schaal (Page 26) Wine Tasting with Paul Cluver (Inside Back Cover)
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Of course, when a producer transcends his appellation as Guffens has and as no other producer anywhere has (think about itMacons not only better than all other Macons, but better than most Montrachets!) it tends to annoy his peers. And Guffens legendary self-assurance hasnt helped. When told, for instance, that hed been named (with Coche-Dury and Lafon) one of the three top white wine producers in all of Burgundy, Guffens responded, its just a pity that the other two are so far behind. But taste any one of these great 2006 Guffens domain wines the freshest and most fantastic vintage, I believe, he has ever made and youll agree with Frances top wine writers, Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Jean-Marie Guffens: a true badass. This tiny domaine is home to some of the Worlds greatest Chardonnays. Jean-Marie Guffens is the only winemaker we know who can produce a wine of such consistent eloquence, combining immaculate grape expression with the mineral character of a limestone terroir. Even at peak ripeness they retain an acidity simply unknown elsewhere. Without fiendishly precise pressing (in a special antique press Guffens rebuilt himself) tailored to the requirements of every vintage Guffens could never achieve such crystalline purity. His great Pierreclos and Vergisson cuvees, like the greatest Rieslings, are as limpid and pure as spring water. These are masterpieces of finesse Those who say theyre tired of Chardonnay really owe it to themselves to try these scintillating wines. Theyre like virtually no other Chardonnays on earth. The fact that theyre six years old, in absolutely pristine condition and less than half their original release prices is just the icing on the cake.
2006 GUFFENS MACON PIERRECLOS Premier Jus de Chavigne Reg. $59.99/$22.99 sale
Great white Burgundy is all about the tension of richness and concentration playing off minerality, freshness and finesse. For most producers, striking this balance involves tradeoffs. Guffens, though, manages to not only imbue his wines with all these qualities, but to somehow amplify them all, too. This wine, according to Tanzer (and others) the single greatest Macon Guffens has ever made (greater even than the 95-point 2005 we blew through last year at $39.99), definitely has it all. Its as pristinely, strikingly fresh as any Chardonnay can be. (With a pH, I would bet, of around 3.0.) Yet its also immensely concentrated, utterly suffused with an ineffably complex minerality and satisfyingly rich, dense, deep and concentrated. How does Guffens do it? I dont know. He did pick relatively early in 2006 which turned out to be prescient. And this is from only the free run juice of 80-year-old vines in his top Macon vineyard. But theres an artistry here a magic even thats both unique among white Burgundies, and quite difficult to explain. As Bettane & Desseauve said: This is great art! Maybe I should just leave it at that. The price of this wine on release, by the way, was $65. And not only is this just over a third that priceits been perfectly stored for you for five years now! Easily and BY FAR the best white Burgundy (and white wine) value I have ever offered. So far, pretty much everyone who has tasted this wine has bought it.
All of these wines, by the way, are directly from the importer and in absolutely PRISTINE condition. Its very rare that we can find older Burgundies in this perfect a shapeat any price.
Note: By the time you read this, we should have some other great Guffens and Verget white Burgundies in (as well as some serious red Burgundies, and great-value Bordeaux, and more Rhones) - all at World-beating pricesJust Ask!
Layered and dense ruby-purple, this wine displays plenty of graphite, licorice, black raspberry and cassis notes, a full-bodied mouthfeel, striking complexity and elegance and a very long finish. Everything is in place, and the wine should evolve nicely for 10-15+ years. Saint Cosme says: We find everything we like in a Cote-Rtie: Freshness, balance, Serines relief, the deep and complex aromas which ally finesse with the purity of the fruit. But I like this more recent (two months ago) CellarTracker quote best: This is a wow wine. Still opaque purple in color, the wine has an open nose of blackberry jam, spice and pepper. The balance and depth are outstanding. Still great overnight w/o gas. Going to be amazing in 3-5 years. That was pretty much our take, too. You just dont find Cote-Rties like this for under $100 these daysand when you do, jump on them! We sure did.
Parker, Tanzer, The Wine Spectator, John Livingstone-Learmonth (the foremost British Rhone expert), several French publications, and all the consumers on CellarTracker rate it outstanding, too. Tanzer says: Inky purple. Explosively aromatic nose features pungent blackberry, blueberry and candied licorice scents. Very sweet, with deep, dark fruit flavors and silky tannins. Impressively fresh and focused, with a long, supple finish and clinging crme de mure flavor. There are no listings on Wine-Searcher, but the best price on Coursodons Sensonne (which Tanzer rates two points lower) is $49.99. And the original release price was $45. PLUS, as with the Guffens, you get five extra years of perfect storage and aging here!
Pale yellow. Come hither aromas of peach, lime blossom and honeysuckle; rather muscat-like. Tactile and slightly sweet but not at all heavy, with perfectly integrated acidity framing and lifting the flavors of white peach, ripe citrus fruits and anise. Finishes long, with mouthcleansing acidity. Serve with spicy foods, as you might use a Riesling, or enjoy it on its own; in South Africa, its often paired with Cape Malay cuisine.
Cederbergs vineyard one of the most remote in South Africa. He rates it outstanding, and quotes the average retail price at $23.99. I suspect that like German Rieslings, this will appeal to both the most and the least sophisticated of wine consumerswhich makes it even cooler. Do you want to impress a sommelier?
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That said, Guffens actually purchased this vineyard in 2007 so its essentially a domain wine. Indeed, starting in 2008, its labeled as such. And its clearly not only the finest of the Verget Saint-Verans (probably ever), but better (and rated better) than his Pouilly-Fuisses! Burghound, for instance, rates it 90-92 (sky high for himand equal to the top Guffens Pouilly-Fuisse in 2007!), saying: The most elegant of this Saint-Veran group, delivering an aromatic profile of fresh, bright and quite pure nose of white peach, citrus and acacia blossom notes that complement perfectly the rich, full and detailed flavors brimming with dry extract and culminating in a beautifully intense and long finish. Terrific quality. Tanzer rates it outstanding, too, pricing it at $44. Guffens says this extraordinary vineyard, with a very stony and chalky soil and a perfect Southern exposure, is the single best vineyard in the Maconnais outside of Pouilly-Fuisse, giving a well-balanced wine with great density and a fine minerality. With its 75-year-old vines, Guffens calls it the Batard-Montrachet of Saint-Veran. In fact, he had coveted this vineyard so much, he refused to identify it until he had purchased it.
Our tasting, by the way, was consistent with that of the EWS (though we didnt have such fancy comparison wines!). It was certainly far more like a great grand cru white Burgundy enormously rich yet also very light on its feet, long, complex and refined than any Martinelli Chardonnay Ive ever had. And just about as perfect as California Chardonnay gets.
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But the best testament to how uniquely pure, delicious and above all authentic these Pali Pinots are came in a recent chat board discussion of Good Pinots for $20 which ended up, as one commentator put it, sounding like a Pali love-in. These really do offer both unique quality and appeal as well as unique finesse and class for $20 Pinot Noirs. And at only $16.99 the best price ANYWHERE perhaps no other Pinots can touch them.
2011 BELLE GLOS LAS ALTURAS PINOT NOIR Reg. $49.99/$39.99 sale
As good as the Meiomi is, this one turns up the flavor the sheer succulent layers of velvety Pinot goodness - to eleven. (Or twelve.) Phenomenally dark, rich and sumptuous yet still the purest, most velvety and simply gorgeous Belle Glos Pinot to date, theres no wonder it enjoys the winerys top ratings ever among consumers. The Wine Spectator calls this deliciously rich, smooth and layered, and it is. But I would add that you could water this down by half and still probably have a knockout Pinot Noir. This is quite simply an essence. But one that nevertheless retains its typicity, purity and balance. As an indication of their commitment to this, the Pinot Noir ideal, Belle Glos is the only producer I know that puts the average daytime high temperatures for each of its vineyards (in this case 76.6 degrees during the 2010 growing season) on its labels. They are serious about delivering Pinots that both taste good and have good (or true) taste. If any Pinot can claim to be the Caymus Special Selection of the Belle Glos range, this would be the one! And like that wine, it will impress everyone from the casual wine drinker to the confirmed Pinotphile.
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Indeed, Maury and the Priorat are in many ways similar. Both have ancient Grenache vines growing in meager schist soils. But the yields are even lower in Phinneys Maury vineyards just a half-ton an acre, and critically, theres a rare substratum of Cretaceous limestone here. (Which James Wilson explains, in his excellent book Terroir, is one of the slabs from the overbuilt Pyrenees which slid down the mountainside.) So despite the enormous richness and concentration here theres a vibrancy, penetration and even finesse Californias old-vine field blends no matter how good simply cant match. As Phinney said of his inaugural Maury wine, a 2009 blend of Grenache with Carignan and Syrah: Its is a serious, serious wine. I would put this up against any wine from anywhere. (Hes never lacked for confidence.) The pure Grenache 2010 Shatter, though in the Roussillon vintage of a generation (and the best in Parkers chart) is an absolute essencenot only of wine, but of what ancient-vine Grenache in Maury (and in Phinneys hands) can do. Id love to compare it in a decade or so not only to Californias best old-vine blends (and not just The Prisoner), but also to some really top-level Chateauneuf-du-Papes. Of course, what really clinches the deal here is the (remarkably reasonable) price. There are now quite a few $100-plus wines from the Languedoc-Roussillon (including Gaubys Muntada, from the next-door village of Calce). But this wine, despite its great impact (and the fanciest, heaviest bottle Ive seen) isnt one of them. And its hard to imagine this wine will remain so reasonable for long. Not with the press and the consumer reaction it will certainly get. The name Shatter, by the way refers to what the French call coulure, a condition which drastically reduces yields, and to which Grenache is particularly prone. But this will also shatter many preconceptions of just what a $30 red wine can be.
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dubbed the Savoir of South African Syrahmainly due to the incredible quality and purity of this singular wine. It sets a new standard, but in the most old-fashioned way. Not only does this wine raise the bar for South African Syrah its quite simply the Worlds best Syrah for the money. Or as South African wine writer Neil Pendock puts it, to say Schaals wines are competitively priced is like saying Albert Einstein was good at math. There are South African Syrahs (or Shirazes) that cost five times as much as thisbut none are any better.
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