Art and Artifacts of Lucknow Chikankari Strategy for the revival and sustenance of artisanship

M. Arch III Sem , Recreational Architecture, 2011-12

Art and Artifacts of Lucknow Chikankari

Strategy for the revival and sustenance of artisanship

Submittedby: ChandanGupta M.Arch.(3rdsemester)

Art and Artifacts of Lucknow Chikankari Strategy for the revival and sustenance of artisanship

M. Arch III Sem , Recreational Architecture, 2011-12

Chapter 1
1. Introduction 2. Aims & objectives 3. Research methodology 4. Limitations

Chapter 2
1. Journey of Chikan -persia - Bangal - lucknow

Chapter 3
1. Artisan community

Chapter 4
1. Process of chikankari 2. Uniqueness 3. Comparison with other embroideries

Chapter 5
1. Role of chikankari in tourism in lucknow 2. Role of different players in the revival of the chikankari 3. Strategy for revival of chikankari work

Chapter 6
1. Conclusion

Art and Artifacts of Lucknow Chikankari Strategy for the revival and sustenance of artisanship

M. Arch III Sem , Recreational Architecture, 2011-12

Introduction
The chikan work of Lucknow is perhaps one of the most popular embroidery works in India. It has a certain grace and elegance, which ensures that it never goes out of style. The word chikan literally means embroidery. The name chikan has been derived from the Persian word Chakin or Chikeen meaning a kind of cloth wrought with needlework. It is said to have been originally introduced by Nur Jahan, the beautiful wife of Mughal emperor, Jahangir. Chikan is said to have originated as a court craft, during the reign of Mughal Emperor Jehangir, by his wife Noor Jahan. Traditionally, the chikan embroidery was exclusive white items, decorations similar to the cotton, jamdani, and woven traditions. The Nawab Shirajudaula of Avadh, great lover of grace, style and beauty was greatly attracted by this craft. It was his keen initiative and interest, which promoted this craft in present day Lucknow. Another record of the travelers of the sixteenth century describes that during the sixteenth century, white work from Bengal, was influenced by the Portuguese traders, the residents of the port Hugli, north of Calcutta of that time. The Bengali migrants who came from Dacca in eighteenth century to settle in Lucknow brought this art of surface ornamentation to Lucknow. Chikan work came into production by the nineteenth century. During this period similar work was also produced at Calcutta and Madras. It is reported that earlier brass, bone, copper or iron needles were used; now only steel needles are used.
1

It has since evolved and attained its glory and perfection in Lucknow, Uttar

Pradesh. The work became popular in a number of important cities of the India such as Delhi, Agra, Rampur, Banaras, Patna and Gava. But the supremacy of Lucknow remained unchallenged.

The designs depend for its effect on the variety of stitches used and different grades of threads used to form the patterns which include the lace like jail, the opaque fillings and the delicacy or boldness of outline and details.2

1 2

www.lucknowchikanhouse.com http://handicraft.indiamart.com

Art and Artifacts of Lucknow Chikankari Strategy for the revival and sustenance of artisanship

M. Arch III Sem , Recreational Architecture, 2011-12

The most beautiful part of Chikan work is the open work ground; an effect of drawn thread work is achieved without drawing out any. Tiny raised flowers done in what seem to be French knots are balanced by the flat stem stitch and large areas of open work to prevent either a crowned or too scattered appearance.

A variation of the chikan work is the bakhia or shadow work. Here the work is done from the back, the stitches completely covering the design in herringtone style. The shadow of the thread is seen through the cloth on the right side. To give a richer appearance, the designs are produced with tiny backstitches on the right side over the shadow. A similar effect is created by cutting out tiny flowers and leaves in the same material as the basic fabric and then applying them on the wrong side. The work is done so dexterously that the turned in edges of the cut pieces are scarcely visible from the front of the work. 3

The capital city of Uttar Pradesh has a distinction of producing one of the best embroideries of the world. Chinkankari is an art, which results in the transformation of the plainest cotton and organdie into flowing yards of magic. It is a craft practiced only by Muslims and was confined to Dacca of Bangladesh and Kolkata in West Bengal and Lucknow of Uttar Pradesh.

When this declined in the mid nineteenth century Chikan changed from a professional activity of men to a cottage industry for women.

Chikan is a type of whitework, that is to say white embroidery on white fabric, with predominantly floral designs executed on fine cotton with untwisted threads of white cotton, rayon or silk. It is embroidery that has evolved over centuries, reaching its peak in the late nineteenth century in Lucknow. True chikan has the unique property of being limited to a fixed repertoire of stitches, each of which is only ever used in a certain way

http://handicraft.indiamart.com

Art and Artifacts of Lucknow Chikankari Strategy for the revival and sustenance of artisanship

M. Arch III Sem , Recreational Architecture, 2011-12

Objectives
1. Explore the chikankari work in progression of lucknow tourism. 2. Study the strategies for revival of chikankari work.

Research methodology
This dissertation is based on archival research and other documentary, literary works and theoretical investigation on ancient treatise and modern research works on the chikankari craft of India. The archival research has helped to bring out the basic concept of chikankari and how it influenced to tourism in lucknow. A study of the chikankari work and various other elements along with the process and types in which they evolved over centuries for adopting certain traditional values for the construction of the society. Studies have been conducted from the case studies and information available in the books, journals and websites.

Limitations
The scope of the project will depend on the data availability from both the primary and the secondary sources. In addition to this the study will take inputs from opinions of the consumer experts, various newspaper & magazine articles.