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Food & Drink
Organic, schmorganic, fumes
New York Times columnist Roger Cohen sar-
castically in an article entitled The Organic Fable.
He bases his sweeping dismissal of the organic
foods movement on a new Stanford University
study claiming that fruits and vegetables labeled
organic are, on average, no more nutritious than
their cheaper conventional counterparts.
Cohen does grant that organic farming
is probably better for the environment because
less soil, fora, and fauna are contaminated by
chemicals . . . So this is food that is better eco-
logically even if it is not better nutritionally.
But he goes on to smear the organic
movement as an elitist, pseudoscientifc in-
dulgence shot through with hype.
To feed a planet of 9 billion people, he
says, we are going to need high yields not low
yields; we are going to need genetically modi-
fed crops; we are going to need pesticides and
fertilizers and other elements of the industri-
alized food processes that have led mankind
to be better fed and live longer than at any
time in history. Id rather be against nature
and have more people better fed. Id rather be
serious about the worlds needs. And I trust
the monitoring agencies that ensure pesticides
are used at safe levels a trust the Stanford
study found to be justifed.
Cohen ends by calling the organic move-
ment a fable of the pampered parts of the
planet romantic and comforting. But the
truth is that his own, science-driven Industrial
Agriculture mythology is far more delusional.
Let me count the ways that his take on the
organic foods movement is off the mark:
1) Organic food may not be more nutritious,
but it is healthier because it is not saturated with
pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, and preserva-
tives, not to mention antibiotics, growth hor-
mones, and who knows what other chemicals.
There are obvious health advantages in this,
since we know though Cohen doesnt mention
that synthetic chemicals and poor health, from
asthma to cancer, go hand in hand.
2) Organic food is only elitist if it comes
from Whole Foods the one source Co-
hen mentions. I grow organic vegetables in
my backyard, and they save me money every
summer. We dont need the corporatization
of organic foods, we need local cooperatives
(like the CSAs in my region) to provide af-
fordable organic produce that doesnt require
expensive and wasteful transport thousands
of miles from feld to table.
3) About feeding 9 billion people: frst of
all, we should be working hard to curb
population growth, for all kinds of good
reasons. We know weve gone beyond the car-
rying capacity of our planet, and we shouldnt
be deluding ourselves that we can techno-fx
our way out of the basic laws of geophysics
and biology. Industrial agriculture is a big part
of the problem. It will never be part of the
solution. Agriculture must be relocalized and
brought back into harmony with the natural,
organic cycles of the planet. If this doesnt
happen, and soon, all the GMO seed and fer-
tilizers in the world wont help us survive the
climate cataclysm that awaits.
4) Mankind is better fed and longer lived
now than any time in history? Here Cohen
reveals his own elitist, Whole-Foods myopia.
Surely he must know that some billion people
We Eat by the Grace of Nature, Not by the Grace of Monsanto
By Jennifer Browdy de Hernandez
www.OurBerkshireTimes.com October / November 2012 5
Food & Drink
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go to bed hungry every night, with no relief in
sight? Mortality statistics are also skewed heav-
ily in favor of wealthy countries. So yes, those
of us in the industrialized nations are again,
depending on our class standing living longer
and eating better than in the past, but only at the
cost of tremendous draining of resources from
other parts of the world, and at increasing costs
in terms of our own health. Just as HIV/AIDS
is the scourge of the less developed world, can-
cer, asthma, heart disease, and diabetes are the
bane of the developed world, and all are related
to the toxic chemicals we ingest, along with too
much highly processed, sugary, fatty foods.
5) For someone who is calling the organic
movement romantic, Cohen seems to have
an almost childlike confdence in authority
fgures. He says he trusts the monitoring agen-
cies that ensure pesticides are used at safe levels
a trust the Stanford study found to be justi-
fed. And I suppose he also still believes in Santa
Claus? We cannot trust that the safe levels es-
tablished by the EPA or the FDA are in fact safe,
given the fact that we operate in an environment
where thousands of chemicals enter the market
without suffcient testing, presumed innocent un-
less proven guilty but to win the case against
them, frst people must get sick and die.
6) Cohens zinger, Id rather be against
nature and have more people better fed,
displays his own breathtaking blind spot as re-
gards the human relation to the natural world.
Human beings cannot be against nature with-
out being against ourselves. We are a part of the
natural world just like every other life form on
this planet. Our fantasy that we can use our
technological prowess to divorce ourselves
completely from our material, physical reality
is just that a fantasy. We eat by the grace of
nature, not by the grace of Monsanto.
For the entire history of homo sapiens, we have
always eaten organic. Its only been in the last
50-odd years, post World War II, that wartime
chemicals and technologies have found new
uses in agriculture. The result has been the rapid
and wholesale devastation of vast swaths of our
planet biodiversity giving way to monoculture,
killer weeds, and pesticide-resistant superbugs
going wild, the weakening and sickening of ev-
ery strand of the ecological web of our planet.
If Cohen wants to talk fairytales, the rel-
evant fable to invoke might be the legend of
Jack and the Beanstalk. We might be able to
grow a fantastically huge beanstalk if we fed
it with enough chemical fertilizers, and we
might even be able to climb it and bring back
a goose that lays golden eggs.
But in the end, that beanstalk will prove
to be more dangerous to us than its worth
well have to chop it down, and go back to the
slow but solid organic way of life that has sus-
tained us unfailingly for thousands of years.
~ Dr. Jennifer Browdy de Hernandez is Asso-
ciate Professor of Comparative Literature and Media
Studies at Bard College at Simons Rock. She directs
the annual Berkshire Festi-
val of Women Writers and
the Simons Rock Summer
Enrichment Camp for
Teens. She blogs about en-
vironmental, political, edu-
cational, and social issues at
Transition Times (http://
bethechange2012.word
press.com).
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We Eat by the Grace of Nature, Not by the Grace of Monsanto
By Jennifer Browdy de Hernandez
October / November 2012 www.OurBerkshireTimes.com
6
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