Hi all, The problem I had was with the speedo in the car. It didn't work (well sometimes it did).

And for some reason, when the speedo decided not to work, neither did the fuel gauge. It shows empty every time you nudge the steering wheel when showing it a corner or breathe on the brake pedal to slow down. I'm sure most of you will know, when you need some more "Go Go Juice" for your lovely piece of German engineering the fuel light emits but also, you get a lovely but yet annoying "BEEEEEEEEEEEP" just to remind you and it was driving me insane! It has been this way since I bought it the car in June from the good old car auctions. (other than the speedo problem the car is fantastic) My speedo only seemed to work when I pushed the accelerator. For Example, when accelerating, the speedo is climbing as it should. When I dip the clutch to change gear, the speedo drops to 0 and when I lift off the clutch and back on the accelerator, the speedo starts to work again. I have been trawling through pages and pages and even more pages on the internet trying to figure out a solution to my speedo problem. It looks like there are a lot of other people with roughly the same year of car (2002/2003/2004) with the same problem but with slightly different symptoms. Anyways, I set out at the weekend with one thing in mind, to fix this damm speedo! And I did! It works perfectly. Never have I been so pleased and happy to see the needle of a speedometer move and do the job that its supposed to do. The excitement I get when I approach roundabouts now and not having to hear that dreaded "BEEEEEEEEEEEP" is an experience itself! I feel as if I have accomplished something this weekend and now drive VW with the biggest smile Im sure you will all be able to appreciate. It wasn't the Gearbox/Speedo sensor or any other sensor or the cluster. It was a simple corroded wire that had snapped. A bit of time, elbow grease and insulation tape it was fixed. It cost me about 1 1/2hrs in total (including taking photos) and 1 for the tape to fix this problem. Much better than the stealers I would say? Heres how I did it........ First, POP the bonnet! And remove the battery cover (if you have one). There is another black plastic box on top of the battery that has more positive wires inside, slide this towards the back of the car to unclip it from its housing. The housing itself that it sits on can be removed by pushing the clips at either end of the battery which are circled pink in the pic. Loosen the battery's positive and negative terminals with 10mm socket (Yellow arrows) Remove the bolt that holds the battery in place (green arrows) with a 13mm socket. You will need an extension bar for your ratchet as well.

Remove the battery from its housing. (Careful, its heavy) This will expose 4 bolts which hold the battery housing in place. Unscrew these and remove the housing.

There are 2 plastic wire tubes that need to be removed/unclipped from the engine mount (yellow arrows). The wire underneath the one you can see is the wiring for the gearbox/speed sensor which is indicated by the pink arrows and text.

Inside this plastic tubing you will find 3 wires. 1x Brown, 1x White/Black, 1x White/Blue.

If you follow this tubing down towards where the battery sits, you will find these wires a big trunking of wires which are covered in factory insulation.

Carefully cut away the factory insulation + tape exposing the wiring underneath. Be really careful at this point as you dont want to damage any other wires in the trunking!!

After cutting away the insulation this is what I found...

The White/Blue wire had snapped! This little broken wire was the reason the fuel gauge gave me the fear every time I turned a bloody corner! "BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP" Another pic of the snapped wire, bit easier to see and understand where abouts it had snapped.

Cut a piece of old speaker wire and take off about 1cm - 2cm of shielding from either end and twist...

Do the same for the snapped wire (take off about 1cm - 2cm of shielding from either end and twist)

connect the ends of the new wire to the ends of the snapped wire and twist them together and tape them up...

Tape it up some more...

And some more!.. Once you have ran out of insulation tape, clip the wires back onto the engine mount (yellow arrows)

Put the battery housing back in and screw down with the 4 bolts. (10mm socket)

connect the battery terminals back onto the battery (remember to clip the plastic housing that sits on top off the battery back into place and the little box of positive wires clips onto that housing by sliding it towards the front of the car, dont have pic of this sorry!)

Close the bonnet, Tidy all tools away, jump into drivers seat, start engine, go for test drive.

Voltage Drop Testing

Copyright AA1Car Does your engine crank slowly or not at all, but when you test the battery and starter both are fine? What about an alternator that puts out its normal charging amperage but can't keep your battery fully charged? An often overlooked cause of these kinds of problems is excessive resistance in the high amperage circuit. Loose, corroded or damaged battery cables or ground straps can choke off the normal flow of current in these circuits. And if the current can't get through, the starter won't have the muscle to crank the engine and the battery won't receive the amperage it needs to maintain a full charge. Nasty looking battery terminals that are blooming with corrosion obviously need cleaning. But many times corrosion forms an almost invisible paper-thin barrier between the battery terminals and cables. To the naked eye, the terminals and cables look fine. But high resistance in the connections is preventing the high amp current from getting through. The same goes for battery cables with ends that have been beaten or pried out of shape, or have had the ends replaced. If the clamp isn't making good contact with the battery terminal all the way around as well as its own cable, the cable may have too much resistance and restrict the flow of current. The same goes for ground straps that have loose or corroded end terminals, or make poor contact with the engine or body. Cranking problems can also be caused by undersized replacement battery cables. A wire's ability to pass current depends on the gauge size of the wire. The fatter the wire, the more current it can safely handle. Some cheap replacement battery cables use smaller gauge wire, which may be camouflaged with thicker insulation to make it appear to be the same size as the original cable. But the cable doesn't have the capacity to handle the current. It doesn't take much of an increase in resistance to cause trouble. Let's say a 120 amp alternator operates in a circuit that has a normal resistance of 0.11 ohms. If that resistance were increased to 0.17 ohms because of a bad wiring connection, the alternator's maximum output would be limited to 80 amps. In other words, an increase of only 0.06 ohms (almost nothing!) would reduce the alternator's maximum

output by almost a third! Under light load, the drop in charging output might not even be noticeable. But in a high load situation, the alternator wouldn't be able to keep up. CHECKING CONNECTIONS If you use an ohmmeter to measure across a heavily corroded battery cable or ground strap connection, or one with only a few strands of wire that make contact with the end clamp or terminal, the connection may read good because all you're measuring is continuity -- not the ability to handle a high amp current load. The connection may pass a small current, but when a heavy load is applied there may not be enough contact to pass the extra current. So how do you find these kinds of problems? You do a voltage drop test. VOLTAGE DROP TEST A voltage drop test is the only effective way to find excessive resistance in high amperage circuits. It's a quick and easy test that doesn't require any disassembly and will quickly show you whether or not you've got a good connection or a bad one. To do a voltage drop test, you create a load in the circuit that's being tested. Then you use a digital volt meter (DVM) to measure the voltage drop across the live connection while it is under the load. Voltage always follows the path of least resistance, so if the circuit or connection being tested has too much resistance some of the voltage will flow through the DVM and create a voltage reading.

If a connection is good, you should find little or no voltage drop and see less than 0.4 volts for most connections, and ideally less than 0.1 volts. But if you find more than a few tenths of a voltage drop across a connection, it indicates excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or repair. CHECKING THE STARTER CIRCUIT To check the starter circuit for excessive resistance, you need to measure the voltage drop at the battery, battery cable connections and starter while the engine is being cranked.

The first check is "available battery voltage." For the starter to crank at normal speed, the battery must be at least 75% charged (12.4 volts or higher). Low battery voltage can not only affect the starter but every other electrical system in the vehicle. A. Set your DVM to the 20 volt scale, then connect meter positive (+) lead to battery positive (+) post (not the clamp or cable), and the meter negative (-) lead to battery negative (-) post. B. Disable the engine so it will not start when it is cranked. (Ground the ignition coil wire, or disable the ignition circuit or fuel pump relay.) Limit cranking time to 15 seconds or less. C. While cranking the engine, record the volt reading on the DVM. D. Next, connect your meter positive (+) lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter, and the meter negative (-) lead to the starter housing. E. While cranking the engine, record the volt reading. F. Compare the two voltage readings. If both are the same, there are no excessive voltage drops on the positive feed side. G. If available voltage at the starter is not within one (1) volt of battery voltage, there is excessive voltage drop in the circuit. The next test is for voltage drop on the positive side of the starter circuit. A. Make sure the battery is fully charged. B. Disable ignition. C. Set DVM on 2 volt scale. D. Connect meter positive (+) lead to positive (+) battery post, and the meter negative (-) lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter. While cranking the engine, record the voltage reading. The maximum allowable voltage drop including the solenoid or external relay in the starter circuit should be 0.6 volts or less. If you find more than a 0.6 volt drop in the starter circuit, you can isolate the bad connection by using the following voltage drop tests. * Check the positive battery post and cable connection by measuring the voltage drop between the two while cranking the engine. Connect the meter positive lead to the battery post and the meter negative lead to the cable clamp. A good post/cable connection should have zero voltage drop. * Check the positive battery cable by measuring the voltage drop end to end while cranking the engine. Connect the meter positive lead to the clamp on the positive battery cable, and the meter negative lead to the end of the cable at the starter. Crank the engine and note the voltage reading. A good cable should have a voltage drop of 0.2 volts or less. * To check the starter solenoid or relay connections, connect the meter positive lead to positive battery terminal on the solenoid or relay, and the meter negative lead to the starter motor terminal. Crank the engine and note the reading. A good connection should have a voltage drop of 0.2 volts or less.

Next, you need to check the negative side of the starter circuit. To check the entire circuit, connect the meter positive lead to a clean spot on the starter motor case and the meter negative lead to the negative battery post. Crank the engine and note the reading. The voltage drop on the negative side should be 0.3 volts or less. If the voltage drop is too high, set your DVM to the 2 volt scale and start checking each connection on the negative side to find the bad connection or cable. Use the DVM leads to check across each connection while cranking the engine as before. Check the negative battery post/ground cable connection (should be zero voltage drop). Check the negative ground cable from the battery to the engine (should be 0.2 volts or less). Check between the negative battery post and starter housing (should be 0.3 volts or less). Check between the engine block and starter housing (should be 0.10 volts or less). CHECKING THE CHARGING CIRCUIT To check the alternator connections on the positive side for excessive resistance: A. Set DVM on 2 volt DC scale. B. Connect the meter positive lead to the alternator output stud (B+ terminal). C. Connect the meter negative lead to the positive (+) battery post. D. With the engine running at 1,800 to 2,000 rpm with all lights and accessories on (except the rear electric defroster), check the voltage drop reading. It should be 0.5 volts or less. If higher, the connections between the alternator output stud and battery need to be cleaned. Also, look for loose connections or undersized cables. To check the alternator connections on the negative side for excessive resistance: A. Set DVM on 2 volt DC scale. B. Connect meter negative lead to alternator case. C. Connect meter positive lead to battery negative (-) post. D. With engine running at 1,800 to 2,000 rpm with all lights and accessories on (except rear defogger), check the voltage drop reading. On the negative side, it should be 0.2 volts or less. If excessive, the connections need cleaning or the negative cable needs to be replaced. Some alternators are mounted in rubber bushings and have a separate ground strap. If so equipped, be sure to check the voltage drop across this strap, too.

How Install Boost Gauge Wires MKIV VW/Audi DIY

Installing A boost Gauge

This is a great mod for any turbo car. It's cheap, easy, looks good, and most importantly helps you monitor your boost. For a nice stock look I would recommend Autometer Cobalt boost gauges, I personally think that they look the best, but they can be expensive. For a cheap but still quality gauge I would recommend VDO. In-between the cost of those two gauges there are numerous brands to choose from. Just make sure the gauge you choose allows you to change the light so you're not stuck with a lime green light that doesn't match anything in your car. As long as you can change the bulb you can use any color LED light you would like, LED size 194. You will also want a gauge pod for your gauge to sit in. Whether you want the gauge attached to the pillar (next to the window) or the steering column (more of a stock look) I would recommend the company NewSouth for your pod. The nicer full column pod costs around $40 and it looks like it is part of the car once installed. In this Diy I'm using the half steering column pod which in my opinion is a little ugly. The pods are made for 2 1/16th inch boost gauge, so when buying your gauge keep the size in mind. In this DIY I will be primarily focusing on installing the wires correctly. I will also cover the boost hose instillation briefly but that information can be widely found on the wonderful world wide web! Also a boost hose was already installed on this car by the previous owner but I will show what vacuum tube to tap into for your gauge, it is a simple part of the instillation.

Tools & Parts For Installing Wires

Only standard tools are needed. The only tool I'd recommend buying if you don't have is a wire stripper which is completely optional.

Tape: Teflon plumbing tape, Electrical tape, Double sided tape Needle Nose Pliers Vise-Grips Various wrenches (at least a 10mm) Flathead Screwdrivers Torx Screwdriver or bit 14-16 Gauge wire (around two feet) Butt Connectors Boost Gauge Tubing Kit & Pod

Install Time & Tips

This instillation should take about 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on how fast you work and any complications you might come across. The biggest time killer for me was screwing the clip in the back of the boost gauge to secure it to the housing. Depending on the brand of the boost gauge you may or may not have to use the supplied clip, some boost gauges are a little fatter and secure themselves tightly in the pod. Also before you get it all hooked up in the pod, Check the light to make sure it illuminates. I forgot to do that and had to take it all back apart to reverse the led. It is also recommended to remove the negative battery cable from the battery so you do not blow out any fuses while cutting wires or shock yourself, but I'm not your mother so make that decision on your own.

Removing Dimmer Switch

Removing Fuse Box Panel

Removing Steering Wheel Trim

Cut Grey Wire with Blue Stripe

Butt Connection

Installing the Boost Gauge Wiring

At the bottom of your knee panels beneath the steering wheel there will be 3 torx screws, I believe size 20 or 25. Remove those three screws and the plastic panel above the pedals can now be removed. (No picture as mine was missing).

Take a flathead screwdriver with some electrical tape folded over the blade so you will not scratch the button or vent and lightly pry at the sides of the dimmer switch, with very little pressure you should be able to release it. Once it is released wiggle it out as much as you can. The switch is being held on by two metal tabs on the sides, if one should fall off don't worry they can be slid back onto the switch during re-instillation.

You should be able to work the switch out enough to reach the wire harness clipped into the back. Squeezing the sides of the harness will release it from the dimmer switch.

Pull open the fuse panel door, use a screwdriver in the little notch if needed and place it to the side. Now pull directly out on the panel surrounding the fuses. (It is placed in there the same as the fuse door, clips around the front and sides and slides out in the back). Pull it like in the picture and once it starts to pop out wedge your fingers in the crack and gently pry it off.

The piece of trim directly above the steering column will also need to come out but does not need to be completely removed (it is connected in the middle by a piece of leather). Just grab it on both sides of the steering column and pull forward, it should slide out pretty easy.

Reaching into the side panel that you removed you can pull the harness out that you disconnected from the dimmer switch. The harness will have three wires attached to it. A Grey, Grey with blue stripe and a brown. Cut the Grey with blue stripe wire about two inches down from the harness and strip the ends of both sides.

Take whatever wire you will be using as your positive connection and feed it through the trim you removed on the steering column. Looking through the side panel you will be able to see it flapping around in there, grab it and pull it to the dimmer wire harness.

Twist it together with one side of the grey/blue wire and crimp your butt connector hard (yea crimp it hard, real hard, make it call you daddy) so the connection will not come loose. Before you crimp the other side on, it helps to fold over the wire to make it a little thicker. Once both sides are crimped you should have a connection like the picture.

Optional. For the negative wire you can do the same process and attach it to the brown wire on the harness. If you would like to avoid cutting more stock wires then follow the directions below.

If you look above the pedals under the dash you will see a relay panel with four different bolt post (pictured). To the left side of the bolt post labeled 75x (circled in green) there is another 10mm bolt (circled in red) that is holding the panel to the car, this bolt is a great place for the negative wire.

Feed the wire through the steering column like you did with the positive wire and pull it through near the pedals. After you loosen the 10mm bolt you can wrap the wire around it and retighten it, but I would recommend using a small terminal ring crimped to the end of the wire then screwed back on around the bold. Keep it clean and stock looking.

Your wiring is done! The gauge light will turn on and off with you dash lights and brighten or darken with the dimmer switch. Before you screw your gauge into the pod remember to check and make sure the bulb lights up if you are using an LED light. If it doesn't like up flip the bulb around and try it again.

FPR

Boost Gauge Tubing Install

Like I said I'm not going to cover this topic extensively as it is pretty simple and there are hundreds of DIY's out there covering this part. This is the most common way that people route in the boost gauge hose. Once I get the n249 delete diy written up I will show a cleaner method using the extra hard vac line. Also I know the vac lines look like a sloppy mess, maybe even sloppier than Octomom's pus..., I just had to get everything hooked up and attached to pass emissions. Also if the hose for your boost gauge is hard plastic, I've found buying 1/4th inch silicone hose from the hardware store for about 50 cents a foot is a nice replacement.

In the picture the item circled in red is your FPR (fuel pressure regulator (DIY) this is the most common and easiest vacuum line to tap into that shows both vacuum and boost coming from the intake manifold. It is located on the right side of the fuel rail (towards the windshield if you have an Audi) and unlike the picture the hose will be black and braided in a fabric. It will look somewhat like bicycle pump hosing.

Cut that hose in half a few inches or so from the FPR and insert your "t" coupler for your boost hose. You can use tiny hose clamps to tighten it on but I suggest using zip ties. It may sound trashy but if you use black you can't see them and they seal a lot better than small hose clamps.

Now on the firewall (under your windshield in the engine bay) you will see a black disc about a foot big stuck to it (your brake booster) just to the top of the disc and to the left there is a little rubber round grommet about a centimeter in size. That is where you will be running your boost hose into the car, it is also where you would run an amplifier cable for sub woofers. I like the cars, the cars that go boom! My name is....

With some needle nose pliers pull that grommet out or push it through to the other side and you should be able to find it somewhere by your pedals. With a razor blade cut an X in the middle so you can run your boost hose through it and re-insert it into it's hole.

Push your boost hose through until you can reach it under your pedals, once you can grab it route it up through the steering column trim and attach it to your boost gauge.

back on the engine side cut off the extra hose (leave a little slack) and connect it to the "T" coupler you inserted into your FPR hose. Done.

12v Switched power supply

75x 12 Volt Switched Power bolt

I figure it can't hurt to go over this bolt post circled in green in the picture. This post supplies 12 volts of power whenever the car is turned on. So if you don't mind having your boost gauge light constantly on when the car is running you can attach it to this bolt post. The main benefit of this post is if you have a MKIV Jetta/GTI/Golf ect, with a double din stereo and would like to run an aftermarket stereo. Trying to connect the aftermarket stereo ignition wire (usually yellow with red stripe) to the volkswagen radio harness will not work. Connecting the ignition wire to another wire and running it to the 75x post will allow the stereo to work properly when the car is turned on and off. You can also use this post if you want to run floorboard leds (loser) or anything else that runs off of 12v that you want to turn on once your car is switched on. The two post next to the 75x, I believe labeled 30x? are constant 12v power supplies. I can't think of any logical use for them besides for blinking alarm lights, or maybe you want to set up surveillance equipment in your car?