Vous êtes sur la page 1sur 84

\

n

?T"N

i

^ifl KTIFi^

^_n_lllb

Oj]|? T

n

m

nrnirvx nnpnrv\"7 iH

t

PI

—-—'

':

' :':

,

!

Pi

:

Nikolay Ovcharov

.

!

""

SEE BULGARIA

Nikolay Ovcharov

^w/ JL JL-JL v \»«#^ JL, ^ JL \>»*/ JLmJk JL-JL

TTQTY PTTY OF

PERPERIKON

Bulgarian Bestseller

National Museum of Bulgarian Books

and Polygraphy

Sofia 2005

© 2005 Nikolay Ovcharov

© 2005 Bulgarian Bestseller -

National Museum

of Bulgarian Books and Polygraphy

ISBN 954-9308-89-8

U 1 1 1 Hi IN 1 u

6th millennium BC / 9

4th millennium BC / 13

14th century BC / 19

480 BC / 24

The winter of 334 BC / 29

The last decades of the 1st century BC / 32

11 BC/ 35

1st century AD / 39

End of 3rd century AD / 48

August 378 AD / 58

The middle of the 6th century / 59

Sometime in the 7th century AD / 64

1086 AD / 66

1343

AD / 70

1362

AD / 73

The end of the 17th century / 77

The beginning of the 21st century / 80

---

J erhaps this happened in the Holy Mount,

as the ancient people called it, or the

Rhodope as we call it today. The scene was a

bare rock peak, weirdly shaped somewhere in the depths of the history of the planet Earth. Much later it would be called Perperikon.

Under it since time immemorial flows the lit-

tle Perpereshka River, whose gold-bearing

sands strongly attracted the master of the

planet - Man. It irrigates a wonderful valley,

which is one of the most fertile spots in the

Eastern Rhodopes. Therefore this place was

inhabited since ancient times.

4 \$ -

View of the Holy Mount

Ancient stone creations in the sea of clouds

tiitli. inillesiiiiiiiii. BID

A small group of human beings has recent-

ly settled by the river. The New Stone Age

people are farmers and they liked the in

abundant water area. With their primitive

stone tools they can till the land and live off

it. Although they are newcomers, they have

Aerial view of Perperikon

already set up a small village of primitive

dwellings, where dogs bark merrily and bare-

footed kids play.

Months ago the

people from the group

have made what was a giant passage. They left the large age-old settlement in the terri-

tory of present-day Kardjali and went to seek

their luck in foreign lands. According to pres-

ent-day measures this is about twenty kilo-

meters, but to the ancient people this was

tour

tantamount to

a

round the world.

Through unfamiliar forests and mountains

people clad in skins sought the fertile valley

described in old legends. But it was not only

the fertile land that made them leave their

hearth.

From ancient times they believed in the Sun God. The shamans in the big settlement

bore its symbol on their breasts - bright- green nephrite swastikas. Legends uncon-

firmed by any living man had it that a rock

peak towered the distant unknown valley,

which at dawn was the first to see the Divine Sun.

After long misadventures the human beings

who had split from the tribe were convinced in

this. They went up the stream of the high-

water river, which after many millennia would

be called Arda. Wandering in the thick forests

later they

reached the mouth of a small tributary. Vague

tribal memories made them go upstream. Late

in the night, they crossed some hills in the

dark and descended in a wide valley. Early in

the morning, with the first rays of the sun,

shivering with the morning dew the people saw

on

its

left bank,

several days

In anticipation of the first sunrays on Perperikon

Traces of ancient civilizations

The evil demons of the prehistoric inhabitants of Perperikon

the rock bathed in bright light. Indescribably

magnificent and at the same time awesome.

The stone home of the Sun God.

Actually, this was the main reason they left

their native land and found themselves at the

foot of the rocky mount. These people became

the first priests of the Sun God. They put

their sacrifices directly on the bare surfaces

of the rock massif. Many years later, archae-

ologists would find pieces of their primitive

hand-glued ceramic vessels and would be

overjoyed like kids.

Summer sunset over Perperikon

4th millei

um BC

The cult to the Sun God has been per-

nia scientists of the future would explore a

New Stone Age settlement not far away, at

one end of the large valley, and would find out

formed by the priests at the rock peak for how this happened. The shamans accidentally

centuries on end. Meanwhile people have dis- came upon some shining stones, which could

covered the first metal - copper. After millen-

not be worked as the other stones. In his

The majestic cliffs of the Rhodope Mountains

^4

::

%

. k,

#,

)

i

9

•>

sAi-

KSej

X!

:*^'.:fr

-*^& f

I

77?e sfcro /s

as tv/7/te as

tf?e sur?

anger, one of them threw some in the burn-

ing fire. Suddenly the stones burst into won-

derful fireworks. At first people fled in panic,

but later curiosity prevailed and they came

back to the fireplace.

Thus man discovered the

copper ore.

Initially the priests used it in the Sun God rit-

uals making "divine fireworks" with it. Later

someone

found

out

that the

melted mass

solidifies and can acquire the forms of the

implements

hitherto

made

of

flint.

Humankind imperceptibly entered the Stone

Copper Age and this changed their way of life.

At that time the shrine on the stone peak

was a sacred place known even beyond the

Rhodopes. Actually, it was this shrine that

The rocks worshiped by the ancient people

made the mountains Holy, as near it and

along the Arda river valley dozens of new con-

secrated grounds sprang up. Like the chief

sanctuary, they invariably stood on prominent

stone massifs first lit by the rays of the ris-

ing sun. The ancient people chose hills with

vertical or very steep slopes that could be

climbed only from one side. On the not so

high but necessarily visible from faraway top

there had to be a flat spot where the rituals

were performed and where the access was

restricted. Thus originated the idea of the

sacred space, which would later be embodied

in the temples of all major world religions.

But let us travel back through the millen-

nia and look at the stone hill. It is an early

H

morning and today is the great celebration of

the Sun God. At the foot of the rock heap

hundreds of people have gathered from the

neighboring villages. They are all praying for

fertility

and

health. At

the leveled ridge

fenced with cliffs there are but a few men.

These are the priests of the Sun God, dressed in the skins of killed mountain beasts of prey. They are fussing about, going in and out of a

7/?e hills of the gods in the Holy Mount

few wattle structures daubed with clay. Actually these were the first temples built to

serve the gods.

Behind the nearby hills the first rays of the sun gleam and the people stir. Fires flame up on the rocks and the priests start singing and

dancing wildly round them. These rituals are

necessary to enable the elect to communicate

with the souls of the dead. The unearthly

ecstasy is provoked by an intoxicating herb,

whose infusion is kept in little clay vessels in the shape of a partridge. The images of the

formidable evil spirits, predatory fish heads

with gaping mouths roughly sculpted out of

clay, are taken out from the sheds. Of course,

here is also the clay disc with weird rows of

incised lines. Actually,

this

is

the first

ele-

mentary calendar by which the ancient peo-

The flint knife of the high priest

Semi-precious stone arrows given as gifts to the Sun God

ple counted the days, months and years.

Then the shamans' assistants place on the

bare rocks the gifts to the Sun God brought

by the inhabitants. These are clay statuettes

having the rounded shapes

and swollen

breasts of pregnant women. Numerous earth-

enware containing food for the god and the

dead. On little four-legged cult tables lie valu-

able for the ancient people objects - minia-

ture semiprecious stone arrows, cut so finely

that the light transpires through them, mod-

els of clay vessels,

different articles of the

rare metal copper. Finally the sun rises. The chief priest is

holding up against it a long knife of wax flint. In the Holy Mountain this material is not

found and such dear objects are imported from the foreign lands behind another great mountain, which the descendants would call

Stara Planina. There, by the tract of the sea,

is one of the most important religious centers.

Against the products of fine wax flint, the

inhabitants of the Holy Mountain gave drops

and pieces

of the glittering yellow metal

which the mountain was rich in. These were

too soft to make tools from, but were very

attractive and reflected the light in an incred-

ible way. There was hearsay that out of this

metal the seaside people made beautiful

adornments, amulets and even scepters for

religious rites.

The chief priest, bathed in the rays of the

Sun God, solemnly breaks the knife in three

parts and carefully lays them in a crack in

the rock. His assistants put away the ceram-

ic vessels with the food and objects for the

god in other clefts in the rock. From time

immemorial they placed the gifts in the 3-4 m

deep cracks, caused by earthquakes, which

formed a closely knit network over the whole

surface of the hill. In the plain the gifts were

buried in pits dug in the earth, but here there

was no way to cut the stone.

At nightfall the people have gone back to

their villages and at the stone peak only a few

priests keep

the

fires

going.

It

is

early

autumn and the wind blows the fallen yellow-

ing leaves in the rock clefts. By next spring

the leaves would rot away and turn into a

handful of dust. This would happen every year

for millennia on end. Until the clefts get filled

up and bury the objects with meters of dust.

Until 6000 years later when the gifts to the

Sun God are suddenly lit by his light, dug up by the descendants of the Stone Copper Age

people.

Here the ancestors worshiped the Sun God

H

,. >

-

14th century BC

The Late Bronze culture is a crucial point

in the history of human development. In the

Eastern Mediterranean it shines with the

monuments of the Cretan-Mycenaean or

Minoan civilization, which was a huge leap of

the peoples in Southeastern Europe and Asia Minor. The Late Bronze Age ended with one of

the first epic historical events described by human pen - the Trojan War. Unfortunately,

the story was recorded much later and was

based on oral tradition. Most of the diverse

myths and legends from the Late Bronze Age

'''--

During the Bronze Age people continued to honor the rocks

remained unwritten and they can be surmised

from the survived images. This period was crucial also for the rock

peak-sanctuary in the Eastern Rhodopes. For

millennia the people had worshipped the stone heap, honored the Sun God and placed

clay vessels with sacrificial food in the cracks.

They tried to cut the rock with their primitive

flint and copper tools already in the Stone

Copper Age. With great efforts they widened

the upper parts of the earthquake clefts to

form repositories for the cult ceramics.

All this continued during the third millen-

nium BC, when the people on the Balkan

Peninsula discovered the bronze. This new

metal allowed the making of much more

sophisticated implements and arms, which

immensely increased the social importance of men as warriors and hunters. We can speak

of real cutting of the hard rock, however, only

with the improved tools of the Late Bronze

Age. It was then that people managed to cut

out in the rocks their earliest altars, which

later grew into temples. The numerous later

M iM» , W wmp"

cuttings to a great extent destroyed the ini-

tial buildings. Yet,

here

and there

layers

abounding in 18th- 12th c. BC ceramics are

preserved. Some fragments are from extreme-

ly rare imported vessels, brought here all the

way from the coast of the Sea of Marmora

through the first in history trade relations.

Perhaps already then representative build- ings had been cut in the rocks, similar to the

famous palaces in Crete and the adjacent

Man can already hew stone and cut out shrines in it

In

r

-

?J

'"^;;

'

7

^

,,,m-

-

'

':

% r

.

*

.^-

 

1

, ,*S,

'-

- , ****>?

 

V

 

;

:

.;

cjW '

i

K S*

54

J

%r

-J

••

<w ? k

#

The rocks

worked by

are s/fen/

witnesses of

the past

21

islands. One unique monument, an excerpt

from a stone inscription, is still inexplicable.

In it three signs from the Cretan linear script A, used till 15th-14th c. BC, have survived.

This is the first find of this kind in the inte-

rior of Thrace, which raises the extremely

important

question

of the

links with

the

Cretan-Mycenaean culture.

According to one modern scientific hypoth-

esis, most of the early shrines represented

artificial caves cut out in the rocks. Gradually they became numerous and disturbed the bal- ance of the stone peak. Then the catastrophe

strong earthquake, which

destroyed nearly all caves. In fact, this must

be one of those terrible natural cataclysms

occurred -

a

which also

destroyed the great Minoan

palaces on Crete and the other islands.

Whether the initial cult ensemble was in

cut out premises with some roof construction

or in caves it is hard to say today. In any

case, the builders had a major problem - how to drain the buildings from the heavy rainfall.

For this purpose they skillfully used the exist-

ing cracks and cut out gutters by which rain- water flowed away to the foot of the hill. This

drainage system would be developed during

the following centuries. Some of the facilities,

however, were abandoned in antiquity and

were ritually filled up with crushed ceramics.

It was the typical pieces of clay vessels, some of which were fully restored, that helped

Ancient people depicted the gods with sun heads

archaeologists date the earliest cuttings in

the rock.

One

almost wholly preserved vessel

reversed the idea of the people from this epoch. Over the entire surface of the walls

and on the bottom, by incision and white-

paste filling a mythological scene is drawn,

the exact

meaning of which will forever

remain a hypothesis. It shows six human fig-

ures surrounding the central image of the Sun. The now incomprehensible imagination

of the ancient artist depicted the people as flowers, their limbs representing leaves. Their

heads are drawn as suns. There is reason to

believe that some of the figures are male and

some female.

These are ancient deities, whose names we

will never learn. Gradually, alongside the Sun

God other gods appeared, polytheistic religion emerged. This process was particularly strong in the Early Iron Age, llth-6th c. BC. Actually, this was the time when the individual peoples were formed, such as the Hellenes and the Thracians. If for the Hellenes the origin of the

Olympic system is well described, nearly noth-

ing is known about the Thracian pantheon.

Late Greek authors called the Thracian deities with the names of their own gods, although it

is now definitely proven that the Thracian

ones are far more ancient. This question is of

paramount importance for the rock peak,

later called Perperikon.

Alongside the Sun God appear other deities

480 RC

With an unseen before army and 1000 ships the dreaded Persian King Xerxes advanced in

the Aegean towards ancient Greece. After the

unsuccessful attempt of his father Darius, he

had decided to do away with the insurgent

Hellenic cities

once and for all.

One after

another fell the fortified seaside cities

of

Enos, Maronea, Abdera. From inland Thrace

messengers from various Thracian tribes came

to the Persian king bringing him pledge of

loyalty.

Only messengers from the Satrians, who

inhabited the Rhodopes, did not come to the

king's

camp. The

great

Greek historian

Herodotus wrote that they were the most freedom-loving and independent Thracian people. But something else is more remark-

able about them. The Satrians kept the sanc- tuary of Dionysus, for centuries known

throughout the antique world. Actually the

shrine was looked after by their priests, the

Bessians, and in later times all Thracians in

the Rhodopes would be called Bessians. At the

shrine there was a prophetess, whose oracles

were no less truthful than those of Pythia at

the Temple of Apollo in Delphi.

Modern scientists have long been looking

for

the

temple

of Dionysus

in

the

Holy

Mountain. Not the carefree Hellenic god of

wine

and merrymaking but his

ancient

Thracian prototype, the somber and frightful

subterranean deity Zagreus. It is considered

that its finding will be equivalent to the dis-

covery

of

the

Troy

or

Mycenae.

Most

researchers focus on the Western Rhodopes

because Herodotus wrote that the Satrian

messengers came from the high snowcapped

mountains.

It is well known that the Greek historian was not familiar with the interior of Thrace.

Therefore his information is often inaccurate

and contradictory. The same goes for the Persians, who advanced in a foreign country.

From the Aegean cities they could only see

the tall parts of the Southern Rhodopes,

from where the snow did not go until late

spring. It is not in vain that nowadays this

ridge is called Gyumyurdjinski Snezhnik. None of the travelers supposed that behind

the tall mountains lay the relatively low and

convenient for living Eastern and Middle

Rhodopes.

This is why from Herodotus' information we

should accept only the general idea that the

shrine is situated in the Holy Mountain, the

Rhodopes. What is more interesting is that

the Greek author specified that the sanctuary

The sun is shining through the clouds on the ancient

Thracian megaliths

Ancient wine-stores hewn in the rock

was on a tall peak. This fact is inevitably

associated with the well-known Thracians' cult to the rock massifs. It is no accident that

they made some of the most imposing stone

facilities, called "megaliths" (Gr. "big rocks")

in modern science.

The largest megalithic ensemble on the

Balkan Peninsula is

on

the

hill called

Perperikon. The initial cuttings out in the

rocks from the end of the Bronze Age were

continued during the Early Iron Age, llth-6th c BC. The rich ceramic complex, found during

regular archaeological excavations, dates

from the same period. Most shocking, howev- er, was the discovery of a grandiose round stone altar of 2-m diameter cut out of the

rock. It has a rim, and its smooth bottom is burnt by numerous fires. The altar rises three

meters above the floor in the center of a spa-

cious oval hall hewn into the rocks. There is

an adjoining nearly square platform for the

cult activities of the priests.

beneath the sacrificial

On

the floor

found

altar were

numerous pits cut into the rock, containing

fragments from the Late Bronze, the Early

Iron and the Late Iron Ages.

The mist of history shrouds the stone creations of the Thracians

This remarkable facility is situated in the northwestern part of a grand ensemble of

many rooms cut out of the rock. By all

appearances, the hall with the round altar

preceded the other parts of the complex. Most

probably it was made at the end of the

Bronze Age and was the earliest rock building

on the hill. Unlike the other corpuses devel-

oped in several stories, it has no roof and is

open to the sky.

These details are very important because

they correspond exactly to the scarce infor-

mation given by the antique authors about

The burnt stately altar to Dionysus-Zagreus

the temple of Dionysus. According to the Roman historian Macrobius, the god's altar

was located in a large roofless hall of oval

shape. This is so because, according to the

description of another Roman chronicler Suetonius, the future was told by the height

of the fire flaming up towards the sky. But

before the fire was lit, a glass of wine was

spilt on the altar. This was the wine-colored

rite, characteristic of the cult to the ancient

god Dionysus-Zagreus.

Here we come to another hallmark of the

landscape

on

the

hill

of Perperikon.

Wandering in the woods covering the slopes,

one comes across hundreds, perhaps thou-

sands

of strange facilities

hewn into the

rocks. These are the so-called sharapans,

presses for extraction of grape juice and mak-

ing of wine. These sharapans have diverse form and size. The most massive reach three

meters and have several chambers linked by

canals. There are also very little ones, which

could barely contain more than 2-3 liters of

grape juice.

The parallels with different cultures and

ages show that what we have at hand is the

making of the sacred or mystery wine used

for cult purposes. With the Thracians, the

crushing and processing of the grapes was related to the cult to Dionysus and, according

to the Orphic doctrine, it symbolically repre-

sented his dismembering by the titans. In

fact, Orpheus, the singer of Dionysus, was

also torn to pieces by the maenads and this

is emphasized in the doctrine bearing his

name. While they crushed the grapes, the

Thracian women even sang mournful songs,

remembering the crime of their predecessors,

the maenads.

The mystery wine was made by communi-

ties, families or individual people. The quan-

tity did not matter. It was important that

the wine was made and stored on the holy

hill. It was drunk during the rites at the fes-

tival of god Dionysus, the Dionysia, or as the

Romans later called it, the Bacchanalia.

Today we can only imagine the wild orgies

and songs that once echoed in the rocks on the ancient peak.

Gold became equally important for the holy

mount as the wine. Already the people from

the Stone Copper Age were familiar with the bits of precious metal abounding in the sand

of Perpereshka river and its tributaries. Later

they found the main deposit,

at a

stone's

throw from the temple of Dionysus. It is an

underground river petrified at the time of the

Creation, where the native gold came not only

in sand grains but in pieces as big as a fist.

The Bessians learned to extract it and became famous worldwide. It is not in vain that the ancient authors called the Rhodopes "the gold-bearing mountain".