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Pur
chas
eacopyof
T
HEL
EEBROS
.
CHARL
ES
T
ONKI
T
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atoneoft
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et
ai
l
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:
CLARKSON POTTER
Contents
Welcome! 8
Drinks
16
Soups
68
Vegetables
88
Truck Farming 94
Holy City Foraging 102
118
174
Desserts
200
time: 45 minutes
Kosher salt
1 to 2 teaspoons vinegar,
either red wine, white wine, or
distilled white (optional)
to let its flavor bloom (do not brown the garlic). Then
crab crack
serves: 24
time: 1 hour
3 tablespoons cayenne
1 tablespoon black
peppercorns
yllabub is a supremely simple and decadent dessert; its essentially fortified wine (Madeira, sherry,
or Marsala) whisked with heavy cream. It came to
Charleston with English settlers in the 1700s, and was a fashionable dessert among well-to-do families in the Lowcountry
until the early twentieth century. We find references to it, not
only in cookbooksfrom Sarah Rutledges The Carolina
Housewife (1847) to Charleston Receipts (1950)but also in
books like Laura Witte Warings The Way It Was in Charleston. Warings memoir is an unusual portrait of domestic life
in Charleston in the years just after the Civil War. Waring
was the daughter of a wealthy German immigrant and his
wife, whose family escaped the vicissitudes of civil war by
moving back to Germany, where they prospered. Upon
returning to Charleston, they were among the citys wealthiest residents; the mansion and gardens they built in 1816 are
now Ashley Hall, a girls day school. Waring describes the
pride with which her motherand only her mother; no one
else was entrusted with the taskmade syllabub.
In spite of that, weve never been served this dessert in
Charlestonneither in a restaurant nor in a private home
not once! And we have no clue why: its as easy to make as
whipped cream, beyond delicious, and a perfectly elegant
accompaniment for fruit. Syllabub was typically served in
specialized silver-and-glass cups with a spoon and a straw,
and a sprig of rosemary for garnish, but we prefer to top it
with fresh figs that have been quartered and tossed in a light
rosemary simple syrup.
We hope Syllabub comes back in style. Its the kind of
uncomplicated and yet slightly surprising dessert we enjoy at
the end of a Charleston dinner with all the trimmings.
Sy ll a bub
1 tablespoons sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
1 cup heavy cream, cold
cup sugar
2 (3-inch) long sprigs
rosemary
Pur
chas
eacopyof
T
HEL
EEBROS
.
CHARL
ES
T
ONKI
T
CHEN
atoneoft
hes
er
et
ai
l
er
s
:
CLARKSON POTTER