Building instruction Playmobile

Description
Early learners: Even the youngest drivers can whizz around their playrooms on wide wheels of solid wood. And the trailer transports their cargo of toys. You need neither a professionally equipped workshop nor the knowledge and skill of a carpenter to build this toy cart. Just a little common sense, a drill, a piercing saw and perhaps an orbital sander are all you need. We have chosen pine plywood as the material, which you can buy in any DIY store. You can easily make all the parts in the parts list out of 20 cm wide shelving boards. You also need round rods made of ramin wood and aluminum rods for axles. The wooden parts are first drawn onto the plywood panels (with as little waste as possible) and cut out with a piercing saw. The detailed construction plan with a 1:1 scale diagram helps you with parts that are rounded and curved. If you have a precise circular saw bench, you can of course use that too. But once you have made a few test cuts with the piercing saw, you will find that you can cut very precisely if you have a good blade for extra-fine sawing and use smooth sawing movements. It is best to draw the contours with a soft pencil so that the size is correct once the line has been sawn away. When using a fine-toothed blade, the cutting thickness is exactly as thick as a thick pencil line. Smoothen the edge with the orbital sander or by hand with a sanding block. For all round and curved forms, use an extra slim sawing blade. Once all parts are cut and on your worktop, you can start fitting them together. First glue the two supports (4) together and then glue them to the seat panel (1). The back wall (2) is bluntly glued and screwed to the seat panel with a 120 mm overlap. Use chip board screws for this purpose, which can be screwed 6 mm into a 10 mm drilled hole. Then close the screw holes with wooden pegs. When screwing the bottom panel (3) to the rear wall, the screw heads at the bottom can remain visible. Where the chip board screws are screwed in near the edge, for instance near the axle bearings (6), you must drill holes first to prevent the wood from breaking. A drill clamp is essential to drill the various holes for the leading axle (10) and wheel axles. You should only use first class drills that guarantee an excellent cut. Here is a tip for gluing the two discs for each wheel: Drill the holes first, slide the discs onto the axles and press them together with a vice without allowing the discs to move off-center. When the leading axle is glued into the hole in the steering bearings (approx. 55 m deep), slide on a plain washer with a 20 mm inner diameter, slide the axle through the seating panel and fix it with a little tolerance through the lower buttress (9). Add a little glue and screw a screw into a drilled hole. Once the upper buttress fixing the steering wheel and the rear axle bearings are fixed, the toy cart is almost finished. Another good tip: Often, 20 mm wood pegs dry out and are thinned, making them too loose for a 20 mm hole. In such cases, add a strip of newspaper. It will join with the adhesive to become extremely tough and your connection will be very solid. Now you must mount the wheels. We have chosen aluminum rods for the axles. The material is stable enough and you can easily cut a thread into it. Here is how you do it: On one side of the axle, cut enough thread to allow a crown nut to be screwed on tightly. Then slide on a wheel with washers and slide the axle through the axle or steering bearings. Then mount the wheels on the other side and make a mark where the axle has to be cut short. Once the second thread has been cut and the bolt is screwed on tightly, there should be enough space

between the wheels and the washers. A little candle wax on the aluminum axle ensures that the wheels run smoothly. The same instructions apply to the trailer. Here too, only use blunt connections with screws that are covered with wooden pegs. Only use non-toxic paints for the surface! We dyed the wheels red and then varnished them. Apart from that, we have only rubbed beeswax balm into the pinewood. If you want the toy cart to be used in rougher areas, for instance in your courtyard or on the patio, you can also use steel axles and plastic rather than wooden wheels 1. If necessary, first use a rasp on the sawn parts and then carefully smoothen them with an orbital sander.

2. Drill the holes for the leading and wheel axles with a cleanly cutting universal drill (in a clamp).

3. The wheel discs can be etched out exactly with two nails in a wooden panel. Cut them out with a piercing saw. Use blades for curved cutting.

4. Water-soluble wood mordant gives the wheels a bright red color. Then apply transparent varnish. Always use non-toxic paints for children's toys.

5. To cut the thread, fix the aluminum rods with wooden blocks in the vice. The required M8 thread cutter (simple quality) costs less than 5 EUR.

6. The wheels are mounted like this: Plain washers between the wheel, chassis and crown nut ensure they are spaced correctly and allow the car to run well.

Materials list
Pos. No. Description Measurements in mm 440 x 200 310 x 200 200 x 105 430 x 60 160 x 80 60 x 38 240 140 60/20 240 gar 80 gar Material

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

1 1 1 2 2 2 1 8 2 1 1

Car Seat panel Rear wall Base plate Supports Steering bearings Axle bearings Steering wheel Wheel discs Buttress Steering axle

Pine 18 mm thick

Ramin wood 20 mm diameter

1 aluminum rod each, 8 mm diameter, 181 and 305 mm long; 4 crown nuts M8, low form, DIN 917; 10 plain washers for M8; 1 plain washer, inner diameter app. 20 mm; Chip board screws 5 wood pegs, Nails; Wood adhesive; Cost of materials: around EUR 15 Disclaimer Bosch assumes no liability for damage to health or property.

240 18

18 18

9 112 10
20 80

76

2 9

9 9

18

18 18 65 36

1 4

18

120 25 20

8
80

11

6 3

30
200

1 200 60 4

73

146

39

20

10

200 18
164

18

40

40

40 6

10

7 9 129 30

10

25 9 A

50

50

50

25

310

27

18

3 8 8 8

11

10

10

1 2

8 6 4 3 11 8

8 8

5 6