Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
,, ^ rresented by
1909
W^anamaker
Originator
^ I
'HE
Glories of Versailles
IC ings.
Famous Beauties
ized
in the
Queens
&?
Wraps.
Lyrasis IVIembers
http://www.archive.org/details/anotherfashionepOOwana
NV^anamaker Originator
[HE
From the have changed! stept back a century Empire, Paris has into the atinto the days of the Louis'
fashions
mosphere
of grace
&
coquetry;
its
the gay
shepherds
&
ladies
shepherdesses in
silk
&
& & gallant lovers in powder & & Darts all unmindful of the terrible rumbles of suffering & sorrow that finally burst in the thundercloud
paint; its Cupids
Hearts
of the Revolution.
once more the dainty feminine charm of the Marquise de Pompadour that sways the fashions as she in her wilful, exswayed those of the days of Louis travagant way. The spoiled beauty whose expenditure
It is
XV
for
perfumes alone was 180,000 francs a year, bent all her on destroying the rigidity that bound France in the days of Madame de Maintenon & the austere ordonnances of Louis XIV against luxury, in clothes, in furniture, in
arts
liveries
& equipages. And mingled with the Pompadour's influence is that of Marie-Antoinette & of the brilliant court of Louis XVI with its entourage of noble ladies who hurried into their Queen's follies & extravagances, whether it was to live like
rustics or in royal splendor.
^x*
PICTURE DRESSES
of
tlie
Days
of
tKe
Pompadour
tlie
Mane-Antoinette,
Made Immortal by
are
Paintings of Nattier,
[O the great artists whose brushes have kept in the Louvre & the Palace of Versailles so wonderful a record of the Court days
of France,
the picture
today.
Is
we owe gowns
it
Badin,
facts?
who
Where,
please, did
these artists in dress turn for their lines, their colors, their
ard,
Without the canvases of Nattier, Watteau, FragonChardin & Le Brun, they could never have reproduced
so exquisitely the fashions of the eighteenth century. "O artist cutter!" the
Goncourts wrote Watteau; "from of your playful scissors there have come to us,
both the 'sweet neglect' & the bravery of attire, the morning's
easy carelessness, the
afternoon's
fine
rai-
patterns
from the
Madame de Pompadour
Arabian Nights.
Dame Inconnue
Xafticr
that
bears her
name.
si
How
vo-
luptuously you
very satin!
Saucily
tucktrav-
up
skirts,
ishing 'lique-
faction
clothes;'
of
rog-
uish prisons of
tight-laced bodices.
Oh
of
bescis-
ribboned
sors
teau,
Watwhat a
dainty realm of
coquetry
you
La Marquise
des Lignerii
Xa/ficr
Maintenon's realm of prudery." Think of this as you see the Callot costume with the real "Watteau pleat" in the back, only one of several presented by this famous house,
to
idea.
Think of Watteau's "little mother-of-pearl canvases that shimmer like the inside of a shell," & of his faded blues, his pinks "which are as rosy as a child's cheek, his drabs & grays, his honeyed yellows like a Flemish maiden's locks" when you see the colors of the Louis XV gowns, of the period in which he painted.
Think again
of Nattier, the
Court Painter, to
whom
made them
beautiful
on canvas. His
portraits
eight
ters are
of
Louis XV's
daugh-
among
o
f
the
loveliest
treasures
Versailles.
it
Is
not
their
that you
charm
feel in the
tier blue
Nat-
by
Drecoll
gown &
the
exquisite
lilac-red chiffon
Madame
Victoire de France
Nattier
Le Brun painted in her famous portrait of the unhappy Queen, is the little flowered mousseline dress from Badin, with its fichu & loopt-up skirts. The silver tulle gown with little roses
is
XVI
styles.
It is a great privilege to
them
Original Faskions
tnc
Days of
the panier ap-
Louis
XV ^
XVI
XV
peared for
the
from right to left about It was impossible to six feet of space. trace around her a circle less than eighteen feet in circumference. About 1730 these paniers became enormously extravagant in size. The need of exaggerating the paniers created the full gown that had a broad pleat falling from the shoulders, which gave a cerskirts occupied
finally
theaters,
large
as
are
to-
hats
suppresst
day.
Marie
Lec-
zinska, wife of
the
aise"
"p o
France 1 o n
among
of
them,
tles
& mansatin
finisht
whose two
points,
with passementerie,
were
tied
..^-^^^^
La Marciuise d'AnUn X(7 //iff
Fashion
geoisie,
left
The gowns
of the bour-
who exaggerated
little
outrageously decollete.
The
mantelet
&
shoulders.
to the Court
in fashions
Her
&
her
whim
to play
hamlet at Versailles, made the vogue for very soft & light materials. At no other epoch has a woman's costume had so little weight & so great volume.
the milkmaid in the
&
the
mode
of
wearing plumes
in the hair, so
that
it
was
Toward
& were
&
flowers.
The
&
Modern Adaptations
oi Louis
XV & XVl
Wanamaker
xasnions as seen
in
in the ne^v
tke
OFT,
draped
but the panier effect does not consist of an ugly draped excrescence on the It is a graceful drapery that drops hips.
skirts,
below the hip line & loops into pretty at the back of the skirt.
Skirts are fuller round, but the fulness
is
lines
arranged to
begin at
The long
Little
&
fastened
&
&
The elbow
evening gowns.
is
again seen on
Madame
Henriette de France
Nattier
WA N AM AKER ORIGINATOR