Women's Suitstyle Jacket

Cutting Out the Pattern

Once you have decided what type of jacket you want to make, and selected the required pieces, you must add seam allowance before cutting the patterns out of the fabric. You will need to add at least 1 cm to all edges, and 2,5-3 cm to the hems of the sleeves. You need to cut two pieces of all pattern pieces unless they are cut on the fold. You can choose to have a collar cut in the same fabric as the jacket or collar and optional wristband cut from rib-knit fabric.

You will need the following pieces: the front, the back (choose only one of the alternatives), the sleeve (either the normal cut from one piece or the curved cut from two pieces), the front, back and hem facings (be careful to select the right ones), the chosen collar and lastly the optional wristband. Make sure you cut the sleeve at the right length.

If you are not going to use the ribbed wristband, make sure to taper the seam allowance out on the hem of the sleeve.

How to Sew the Different Back

Depending on which back you decided upon you may have to do some sewing before you can continue. If you selected the normal back, then it needs no further work. If you selected the curved back then you will need to join the back seam and sew the tucks.

Sew the tucks and back seam, finish off the seam allowance (over lock or zigzag stitch). Press the back seam open and the tucks downwards.

Sew the Sleeves & Attach to Jacket

First you are going to sew the front and back pieces together at the shoulders. Place the front and back pieces with the right sides together. Sew the shoulder seams. Finish the seam allowances and press towards the back.

If you are using the normal sleeve, then there is no need to do anything to it before attaching it to the jacket body.

But if you are using the curved sleeve the two pieces have to be joined together before being attached to the jacket body. Put the pieces together with right side facing and sew the sleeve together as shown.

Sew the sleeves into the armholes. Note the placement markers! Ease the space between the dots in if necessary. Finish off the seam allowances and press inwards.

Sew the sleeve and side seams in one operation. Finish the seam allowances and press towards the back.

Wristband or Cuff, Collar and Zip (no facing) WRISTBANDS

This is how you attach wristbands in rib knit fabric. a) Join the ribbing to a loop, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.

b) Fold the ribbing wrong sides together and baste (hand sew) edges together. c) Divide ribbing and sleeve into four equal parts and mark with pins. d) Lightly stretch ribbing and sew to sleeve, finish seams together and press up.

CUFFS
This is how you make a cuff without ribbed wristband.

a) Fold up a small edge of around 1 cm and press. b) Fold up a larger edge, around 1,5-2 cm press and sew.

COLLAR
You use the same method to attach all three types of collar, but you will not need to stretch the non-ribbed collar.

a) Press collar wrong sides together, mark shoulder seams and centre back with pins.

b) Pin collar to neckline, right sides together, lightly stretch and join making sure that marked points meet. Press down towards body.

ZIP
Attaching the zip. a) Over-lock the front edges before attaching the zip. b) Lay the zip, with its front side facing the front side of the jacket, and with its teeth pointing towards the sleeve, sew allowing a little seam allowance.

c) Fold out the zip so the teeth are facing the right direction. Press the seam into the body. d) Top stitch on the front side of the jacket, close to where the zip and the fabric meet.

Wristband or Cuff, Collar and Zip (without facing) WRISTBANDS

This is how you attach wristbands in rib knit fabric. a) Join the ribbing to a loop, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.

b) Fold the ribbing wrong sides together and baste (hand sew) edges together. c) Divide ribbing and sleeve into four equal parts and mark with pins. d) Lightly stretch ribbing and sew to sleeve, finish seams together and press up.

CUFFS
This is how you make a cuff without ribbed wristband.

a) Fold up a small edge of around 1 cm and press. b) Fold up a larger edge, around 1,5-2 cm press and sew.

COLLAR WITH FACING

First sew the facing together. With right sides facing each other, join the front and back facings together across the shoulder seam.

You use the same method to attach all three types of collar, but you will not need to stretch the non-ribbed collar.

a) Mark the centre back and shoulder seams on the collar, and on the neckline of jacket and facing. b) Join the collar to both the jacket and the facing. Press the seams down. c) Fold the facing down into the inside of jacket and press the collar.

ZIP

Attaching the zip. a) Fold the facing to the right side of the jacket. Jacket and facing face each other right side against right side.

b) Lay the zip right side against the jacket front, and teeth pointed inwards (towards the sleeve). The zip is between the jacket and facing. Sew the seam. c) Fold the facing to the inside and reveal the zip. Press the seam and topstitch about 0,5 cm from the zip.

FINISHING THE COLLAR

Once the zip has been inserted, line up the collar seam. Sew around the neckline in the seam created when joining the collar so the stitching is invisible. Hand sew first if the fabric is moving around too much.

Lining the Hem HEM WITH FACING

You attach a narrow piece of facing along the bottom hem of the jacket to make a smooth and good-looking

ending. a) Join hem facing pieces together and over-lock the top edge.

b) With right sides facing each other, join the facing to the jacket along the bottom edge.

c) Fold the facing to the inside of the jacket and press edge well, sew up facing.

ZIP DETAIL
Sew the zip to a hem without facing like this. a) With right sides facing sew the hem facing to the jacket, making sure the seam allowance sits over the zip alittle. b) Open up and fold the seam allowance in. Then fold the hem facing up into the inside of the jacket.

c) Sew up the hem. 1 - hem facing 2 - jacket 3 - side seam allowance

4 - front facing Sew the zip to a hem with facing like this: a) With right sides facing, sew hem facing to the jacket. Make sure the seam allowance sits over the zip and the front facing sits flat while being sewn over. b) Open up and fold the side seam allowance in. Then fold hem facing up into the inside of the jacket. Press the seam. c) Sew up the hem again, making sure the front facing sits flat.