Final Document

Apparel Internship Report
Submitted by: Sumit Verma Ujjwal Surin BFT- 7 NIFT Bangalore
Apparel Internship Report 2012

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We would like to express our gratitude to our mentor Mrs. Jonalee Das Bajpai and rest of the faculties for their continuous guidance and support. We would like to thank Mr. Madhusudan(Plant Head), Mr.C.N.Vittal (General Manager), Ms.Nayana Santhappa(H.R.), Ms.Suchitra Krishnan(H.R.), and Mr.Amarnath(I.E. Head) for their support and help during the project tenure. We also extend our gratitude to all the managers, department heads and workers at the various departments, who always had a spare moment for us amidst their busy schedule. Their incessant cooperation of every person in Arvind Ltd. Only made us more humble.
Sumit Verma Ujjwal Surin Department of Fashion Technology, Sem- VII NIFT Bangalore
Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.
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1.THE EVOLUTION
1930 was a year the world suffered a traumatic depression. Companies across the globe began closing down. In UK and in India the textile industry in particular was in trouble. In the midst of this depression one family saw opportunity. The Lalbhais reasoned that the demand for fine and superfine fabrics still existed. And any Indian company that met this demand would surely prosper. The three brothers, Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and Chimanbhai decided to put up a mill to produce this superfine fabric. Next they looked around for state-of-the-art machinery that could produce such high quality fabric. Their search ended in England. The best technology of that time was acquired at a most attractive price. And a company called Arvind Mills was born.
Arvind Mills started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year 1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind invested in very sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to fullfledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales in the year 1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76 lakhs and profits were Rs 2.82 lakhs. Steadily producing high quality fabrics, year after year, Arvind took its place amongst the foremost textile units in the country. In the mid 1980s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills lost their markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its highest level of profitability. There could be no better time, concluded the Management, for a rethink on strategy. The Arvind management coined a new word for it new strategy Renovision. It simply meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious and that became the corporate philosophy. The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvinds markets shifted from domestic to global, a Page 3

market that expected and accepted only quality goods. An in-depth analysis of the world textile market proved an eye opener. People the world over were shifting from synthetic to natural fabrics. Cottons were the largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular priced segments, Renovation pointed to high quality premium niches. Thus in 198788 Arvind entered the export market for two sections. Denim for leisure and fashion wear. And high quality fabric for cotton shirtings and trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was the third largest producer of denim in the world.
In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits facility, the largest of its kind in India, at Santej. With Arvinds concern for environment a most modern affluent treatment facility with zero affluent discharge capability was also established.
Year 2005 is a watershed year for textiles. With the mulitifiber agreement getting phased out and the disbanding of quotas, international textile trade is poised for a quantum leap. In the domestic market too, the rationalizing of the cenvat chain and the growth of the organized retail industry is likely to make textiles and apparel see an explosive growth.
Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to straighten its current operations by setting up world-scale garmenting facilities and offering a onestop shop service, of offering garment packages, to its international and domestic customers.
With the Indian economy poised for rapid growth, Arvind brands with its international licenses of Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf, is setting its vision on becoming the largest apparel brands company in India.
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The Arvind Mills was set up with the pioneering effort of the Lalbhai brothers in 1931. With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true Indian multinational, having chosen to invest strategically, where demand has been high and quality required has been superlative. Today, The Arvind Mills Limited is the flagship company of Rs.20 billion (US$ 500 million) Lalbhai Group.
Arvind Mills has set the pace for changing global customer demands for textiles and has focused its attention on select core products. Such a focus has enabled the company to play a dominant role in the global textile arena. With its presence across the textile value chain, the company endeavours to be a one-stop shop for leading garmentbrands. Fore vision and Technology has brought Arvind to be one of the top three producers of Denim in the world, and on its way becoming the Global Textile Conglomerate. Arvind is making its presence felt in Shirtings, Knits and Khakhis fabrics apart from being all set to create ripples in the ready to wear Garments world over. At the close of the Year 1986, Arvind decided to change. We concluded that Arvind must change its strategy, structure, systems and infuse new skills in the organization. In our view, Arvind's experience attaining change would be of interest to a wider audience. We believe that many people would like to know about the events that triggered the decision to change, and the process that we followed to cause the change. We are, therefore taking the opportunity of sharing Arvind's experiences of effecting change.
Towards the close of 1986, the chairman of the company, Arvind Lalbhai, decided to undertake a major review of the company's strategic posture. In that year, Arvind Mills earned the highest profit in its history of fifty-five years. Arvind bhai came to the conclusion that now was the time to change the strategy if there was a need to do so. At Arvind it is believe in achieving not only organisational goals but also the growth of an individual as a professional. Page 5

Over the years it has attracted the finest talent in the country that has enabled Arvind to achieve the present status. It is believed that people are our biggest resource. People with high levels of integrity drive our business. People are searched whose track records shows evidence of high achievement, ability to think laterally and come up with innovative ideas. People here take on the responsibility and produce results. In return, the rewards are very attractive: great colleagues, professional recognition, access to continuous learning, competitive salaries, and incentive compensation and benefit plans.
VISION
To achieve Global dominance in select business built around our core competencies, innovations, effectiveness. To Be the Foundation That Integrates Culture, Vision & Values, Creates An Environment that facilitates The Maximization Of Human Potential through customer continuous orientation product and a and focus technical on cost
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1.1. ORGANIZATIONAL PROFILE

NAME OF FACTORY YEAR OF ESTABLISHMENT SECTOR EMPLOYEE STRENGTH HEAD OFFICE FACTORY ADDRESS
Arvind Ltd(Garments Export Division)
2002 Private Ltd 1230 Mahadevpura, Brookfield near ITPL Road, Bangalore 560048
Arvind Ltd., 63/9, Doddathogur Village, Electronic City
PRODUCT CATEGORY FABRIC SUPPLIERS
Mens shirts Formal, Casual and Ladies Top 90% from Arvind Mills and 10% from Vardhman, Alok Industries , etc.
CLIENTELE
Espirit, GAP, MEXX , S OLIVER, Banana Republic, Debenhams, Guess, Puma, U.S.Polo, Benetton, etc
MONTHLY PRODUCTION CAPACITIES
A shirt manufacturing Unit with production of around 1,26,,000 pieces per month with 10 sewing lines.
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1.2. ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY
General Manager
Account Officer
H.R Manager
Welfare and Safety Officer
PPC Incharge
Assistance
IED Incharge
Asst. IED Manager
Cutting Incharge Spreading and Cutting
Cutiing Supervisor Maintenance and Electricians
Maintenance House Keeping Factory Head(Mr. Madhu)
Arvind Ltd.
Asst. Production Manager Sewing Supervisor
Quality Supervisor Quality Quality Auditors
Finishing Incharge FInishing Finishing Supervisor
Fabric Store Stores Trim Store
Warehouse
Warehouse Incharge
CAD
CAD Incharge
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2. THE MANUFACTURING STRUCTURE
The objective of this internship is basically to learn about the various departments activities, functions and contributions toward the smooth functioning of the Garment Industry. The functions of various departments are inter-related as they have cross-functionality throughout the production process during planning and controlling. These instances of cross-functionality and inter-dependability make the study of the functions of different departments in the industrial setup, a very interesting study to explore and understand the industry very well from all perspectives. It gives the better understanding of the industry in the light of all factors affecting various activities and personnels responsibilities while discharging their duties. 2.1. THE VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS IN THE FACTORY ARE 1. Merchandising 2. Sampling 3. Sourcing 4. Fabric and trims stores 5. Production planning and control 6. Industrial Engineering Department 7. CAD Department 8. Spreading and Cutting Department 9. Sewing Department Parts & Assembly Section Buttoning Section
10. Finishing, Folding & Packing Department 11. Quality Department 12. Maintenance Department 13. Warehouse 14. Administration Department (HR and accounts) 15. Compliances Each of the departments have been discussed hence forth on various subjects such as process flow, statistics, roles and responsibilities etc.
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3. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
3.1 HEIRARCHY OF FLOW:
Head-Marketing and Merchandising Senior Manager Marketing - US Senior Manager Marketing Europe Merchandising Manager Merchandising Manager Merchandising Manager
Merchandising manager
Merchandising Manager
Officer Sampling
3.2 INTRODUCTION
Merchandising is a necessary business process which includes planning, developing and presenting product lines for identified target markets and buyers. Merchandising department is the backbone of all the departments in the industry. Any order that comes in the industry starts with, goes along and ends with the merchandising department. Merchandising involves directing and overseeing the development of the product lines from start to finish. Merchandising department basically act as the bridge between the production department and the buyers.
Merchandising is a profit centre, which is responsible for the product lines that provide the firms primary source of income. Merchandising acts as an interface between the external and the internal activities of the organisation.
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The merchandising department is responsible for all types of conversations with the buyers such as bringing in the orders, reserve the production capacity, receives the Tech Pack - styles ,trims and construction details, getting the fabrics and trims approved from the buyers, getting all the samples approved from the buyers, keeps a track of the fabric and trims to be in-house on time, keeps a check on the quality(whether it is in accordance with the buyer specifications), keeps a track on the shipment date and controls the production accordingly, reviews the order completion report and the style graphs and decide whether ii will be feasible to work out such styles in future.
In Arvind Exports Pvt. Ltd., the merchandising department is divided as per their buyers. The industry is having separate divisions for the US buyers and the European buyers. Each of the team and the members are responsible for generating orders from the two buyer regions for the industry and follow up the execution of the orders.
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3.3 PROCESS FLOW
Procure order
Reserve production capacity
Calculate Fabric and Trim consumption
Is the buyer nominating the vendor?
Sourcing from nominated Vendor
N Sourcing of fabric from Arvind mills, Ahmedabad
Fabric Trims approved
Costing done
Cost negotiation and approval
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Techpack recieved
Mini Markers made
Proto sample approval
P.O(Purchase Order) confirmed and received
Orders the bulk fabric and trims
Fit sample approved
Fabric Performance testing
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Fabric and trims to be in-house as per production schedule
Pilot-run
Bulk production starts
T.O.P(Top of Production) samples approval
Trims and packaging materials procurement
Size Set Samples approval
PP meeting(confirmation to start cutting)
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Send the final shipment details to the buyer
Prepares the shipment invoice
Consignment shipped
Order Completion Report made
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4. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
4.1 HIERARCHY OF FLOW:
HEAD-MANAGER SAMPLING SAMPLING MANAGER SAMPLING MANAGER CAD MANAGER SAMPLING MANAGER
4.2 INTRODUCTION
Sampling is basically the process of producing some few garment pieces in order to match the various buyer requirements such as the design features, size, style, etc. as soon as any order is received the tech pack is handed over to the sampling department and various samples of the product are developed in order to get the orders confirmed from the buyer. When the product is in the sampling stage, the buyer might suggest few alterations or changes as per the appearance and fit of the garment and the requirement of the style which are incorporated in the further samples and finally a green tag sample is made and approved by the buyer which is the actual representation of the product and handed over to the production floor as a guide for the operators to be followed while the bulk production is going on. Though sampling is a costly procedure but it identifies the various problems which might be faced during the bulk production if sampling is not done.
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4.3 PROCESS FLOW
Techpack received
Patterns development
Pattern digitizing and grading
Fabric consumption calculated and Mini marker is developed
Proto-sample developed
Proto sample approval
Sales man samples developed
Pre-production samples developed only in the base size with all the corrections
Size-set samples developed
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Pilot run is done and one set of each size is developed in each colour
Bulk production starts
TOP (Top of Production) sample sent to the buyer
Shipment sample sent to the buyer
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4.4 Sampling
The sampling procedure taking place at the various stages of sample development in Arvind Exports Pvt. Ltd. Is as follows: The base patterns are prepared in the head office at Mahadevpura and a proto sample is made in the sampling division at the head office and sent to the buyer for approval. Proto samples are usually made on the substitute fabrics and with the trims that are available in order to develop the style. Once the buyer approves the proto sample, a fit sample is made in order to develop the fit of the garment, usually done on substitute fabrics and it is then sent to the centralized sampling unit, Bommasandra along with the base patterns. Using the base patterns, proto samples, fit samples and the alterations as mentioned by the buyer, the sampling department produces 50 pieces of the garments as the sales man sample which is sent to the buyer. Salesman samples are basically developed in order to forecast the demand of the particular style in the market. As the order is confirmed and the merchandiser receives the purchase order from the buyer, four pieces are produced in the base size which is the actual representation of the style. All the trims and fabric used are as per the tech-pack and all the corrections are incorporated in these samples. The distribution of these samples are as follows: One sample goes to the buying office from where the orders are placed. One sample goes to the licensing office of the buyer. One sample goes to the buyer. One sample goes to the concerned factory where production has to take place. Pre-production sample acts as the sealer sample which hangs on the production floor to be used as a reference. After the pre-production samples are approved a size-set is made in which one sample in each size is produced and sent to the buyer for approval. After the size set pilot run is performed on the actual production line in order to acquaint the operators with the design and all the production related issues
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and difficulties are sorted out at this stage. The pilot run is performed to develop a set of samples in each size and each colour. 4.4.1 Types Of Sample : 1. Prototype Sample: The first sample sent to the buyer. It is not
mandatory to make the sample in original fabric and with original trims. The fabric should be having a construction closer to the original fabric. This sample just look at whether the garment can be made in the factory, the feasibility of the garment is looked upon. Any modifications needed is sent back as comments and sent back so that the changes can be made and subsequently the garment will be approved by the buyer. 2. Photo Sample/ Salesman Sample: The sample is used for mail order and internet sales. The sample is plotted in the internet with the available colors. The order is re confirmed and the order quantity can change in this stage depending on the customer responses of the style. 3. Size Set Sample: it consists of a sample in each size or a jumping size set as specified on sample order. To not delay the bulk production start, it is important that the size set sample resembles the bulk in all aspects. 4. Production Sample: It is the sample taken from the actual production line. It is taken from the bulk when a certain amount of goods are packed and the rest is in the finishing stage after the production. This sample just gives a sample of what is coming in the bulk
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5. SOURCING
Sourcing is basically determining the most cost efficient vendor of materials, production, or finished goods at the specified quality and service level. It is closely associated and an important part of merchandisers responsibility. Materials basically include piece goods that will be cut and converted into the garments. Not only does the fabric has to be appropriate and suited to the garment design and end use but it must also be made available at the precise time when it is needed. Thus, lead times play an important role in the sourcing and placing orders for the materials required for the production. Lead times required from a supplier can vary from as little as two weeks to as much as nine months. Findings are all the materials other than the piece goods that are required to make up a garment. Findings require the same careful planning as the piece goods. As soon as the fabric is in the stores, then only the sourcing of the threads start because the colour of the thread must match the buyers requirements. The ordering of the threads must be complete by the time fabric is cut ready to be fed to the sewing lines.
5.1.
Fabric sourcing
Sourcing of fabric is done for AEL( Arvind Exports Ltd.) and ACL( Arvind Corporate Ltd.) The office is at ACL (Corporate Office) so that the sourcing department can co-ordinate with the merchandisers and the PPC. Process flow: Art work and colour standard to develop the product received from the merchandiser Fabric details (count, construction, colour, weave and repeat) are mentioned here. Desk loom and lab dip samples are procured which help in sampling and bulk order booking Merchandiser and CAD personnel calculate fabric consumption Page 21

Fabric for bulk production is procured 60-65% from Arvind mills, Ahmedabad and 40-35% from
other mills Fabric may be procured from -- mill sectors (composite mills)- Vardhman, BVM mills, Alok textiles, Ashima mills, BP textiles -- auto looms -- power looms Fabric is generally sourced from Salem, Tirupur, Erode etc.
BOM is prepared and sent to the Accounts department
Capacity: 5.5 6 lac meters per month
Documents maintained: 1. Order placement sheet(stating fabric requirement) 2. Purchase Order( sent to supplier) 3. Invoice 4. Packing slip 5. LR(Lorry Receipt) to accounts for payment
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5.2 ACCESSORY SOURCING:
A. Process flow:
For Trims:
Merchandising Department Realeses Bill of Material(BOM)
Sourcing Department - Procures the required material
Stores - Generates GNR(Goods Receipt Note) and issues the material
Cutting Department - Release of work order by Proman
Sewing Department
Finishing and Packaging
Dispatch
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B. Sourcing regions: 1. India 2. Hong Kong 3. United Kingdom 4. Germany 5. Holland C. Trims Used and their Source 1. Labels: a. Paxar India b. Paxar Hong Kong c. Labelon (UK or FCUK buyer) 2. Threads: a. Madura Coats b. Vardhaman Threads c. Arrow Threads d. Modi Threads 3. Buttons: a. Jindal Buttons b. Ketan Buttons 4. Packing Material: a. United Pressure plastic b. Ujjwal Polypacks c. J.J Polymers 5. Tags: a. Graphic Point b. Vishwakala Printers c. Avery Denisson d. Shore to Shore 6. Interlining: a. PCC (Hong Kong) b. Kufner (Hong Kong) c. Fredenberg (Hong Kong) d. Tencat (Holland) e. Wendell (Germany) f. Chargues (Germany) 7. Tagging bullets 8. Price ticket 9. Sticker
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10. Packaging materials (back support, collar patti, butterfly, polybags, Cartons) D. Procurement Cycle: The cycle is followed in the following manner by the department Colour break-up, size break-up and order quantity : buyer
merchandiser Merchandiser enters this into the system, checks with PPC dept the feasibility of the order BOM : merchandising department PO : sourcing dept supplier sourcing department
In most cases the supplier is nominated by the buyer. In case of regular trim they are procured from predetermined suppliers maybe nominated by the buyer or selected by the sourcing dept. some trims may be required to be sourced for which quotations are requested and order is placed with requisite supplier. Based on the above, purchase order is generated which also contains the delivery schedule and production plan is derived from it.)
INVOICE : supplier
accounts and stores
The sourcing can be done in three ways as per the requirements: The buyer asks to develop the sample as per his requirements. The buyer specifies the requirements which meet with the normal trims that are sourced. The vendor for the trims is specified by the buyer.
Trims are issued 20 days before Planned Cutting Date (PCD) and 7 days before fabric issue date. Trims are stored both size wise and buyer wise. The sewing trims and the packaging trims are stored separately in different sections.
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6. PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL
6.1 HEIRARCHY OF FLOW
SENIOR MANAGER -PPC (PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL)
PPC MANAGER
PURCHASE MANAGER
PPC MANAGER
PPC MANAGER
OFFICER PURCHASE
6.2 INTRODUCTION
The highest efficiency in production is obtained by manufacturing the required quantity of product, of the required quality, at the required time, by the best and most cost effective method. The production planning and control department coordinates and controls all the manufacturing activities in any industry to attain this target. Production planning involves coordinating plant capacity with style requirements, projected volumes, and shipping dates. It begins with the analysis of the given data, on the basis of which a scheme for the utilization of the firm's resources can be outlined so that the desirable target may be most efficiently attained. The production plan sets sub-targets for the various departments in terms of pre-determined time periods and these sub-targets are so defined that in achieving them the overall aim of effectively utilizing the plant capacity, maintaining higher productivity and balancing of the work flow is realized. Control initiates and supervises operations with the aid of a control mechanism that feeds back information about the progress of the work. This mechanism is also responsible for subsequently adjusting, modifying, and redefining plans and targets in order to ensure the attainment of the final targets. Page 26

Factory layout Sales Forecasting and Estimating Equipment policy
Pre planning
Pre planning production
Product Development and Design
Evaluation
Control
Expediting
Dispatching Inspection
Planning Resources The 4 M's
Planning
Scheduling Routing Estimating Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd. Page 27

The production planning generally depends upon three major variables. These are as follows: Fabrics: having the longest lead times of 35-40 days Trims: sewing trims and packaging trims Approval from the buyer
As the orders are confirmed generally lead times of 60 days, 75 days or 90 days (if the orders are placed from the X-factory) are provided depending on the order quantity and complexity of the style. A general 6o day lead time cycle planning is as follows: Advancement of days 30-35 days 25-30 4-5 35th day 36th day 37th day 38th day 43rd day 56th day [43+13(on sew for 8000 pieces from 1 line)] 60th day [56+4] Activity Fabric Procurement Fabric Development Transit time by road Inspection of rolls Ready for cutting[P.C.D. released] Whatever cut issued to the factory Back Feed First garment produced Production completes Garments produced are simultaneously issued for washing and finishing Inspection and delivered to the port
As soon as the orders are procured from the buyer, the merchandiser contacts the central PPC and blocks the capacity for that particular order. The central PPC is having all the line plans and depending upon the capacity available, the complexity of the garment and the order quantity decides and tells whether the order can be completed within the given shipment date or else tells the shipment date depending on the capacity and the already existing plans. The merchandiser then negotiates and confirms a shipment date for the order.
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As the orders are confirmed the merchandiser submits the TNA format(time and action format) to the central PPC which contains the various details related to the order such as SMV of the garment Fabric type Wash and embroidery details (if any) Techpack Samples Fabric in-house date Last date of trim in-house Required X-factory date Break up of the lead times
6.3 TNA FORMAT

The central PPC then plans the order depending upon the following: The orders presently running in the line The orders in different divisions yet to go on the line The orders which are already planned on the lines
While planning any particular orders in any line the central PPC analyses the style and compares it with the styles previously run on those lines so that similar styles could be planned on the same line so that the productivity is good, quality is consistent.
The central PPC then decides the PCD(production cut date) and send the line plans to the factory PPC along with the sample of the garment. The factory PPC then cross check the plan and inform for any minor changes to be done in that plan to the central PPC. The central PPC then prepares a revised plan and sends it to the factory PPC.
Then the sample is sent to the IED which calculates work content, methods, threads, trims, tapes etc. it also calculates consumption of buttons,
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threads tapes and trims. Labels and threads details are finalized by the respective merchandiser. The line plan is then sent to the centralized cutting PPC where the cut plans are prepared.
20 days before PCD, Pre-Production sample is to be submitted to buyer and get it approved. Then size set and pilot sample is created. Bulk fabric is received in the requisite shades according to the swatches submitted by a buyer.
Internal PP meeting is held which includes cutting dept, CAD dept, maintenance, QC, production, planning, IED, finishing, embroidery, printing department. Bill of material is released by merchandising team and sent to purchasing department so that the lead time for each trim is met. QM orders to proceed with cutting, line plan is discussed then the cutting starts. Feeding plan is decided and sent to cutting department so that they can plan cutting in batches.
Once production starts IED reworks and calculates the thread, tapes and trim consumption and reorder in case of variation.( a must of 3%extra is ordered in case of no wash and an extra of 4% for garments that require washing). Requirement for a particular special machine may be given by the PPC to the maintenance department, in case a specific style demands. This has to be given well before the production of the style begins.
Quality team also has a say in the line setting program of the PPC as it defines the best possible sequence of operations to produce optimum results. Bulk production finishing pressing Quality checking
Measurement
folding
packing
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6.4 PROCESS FLOW
Merchandiser procures the order and blocks the production capacity
Central PPC analyses all the line plans and tells the lead times for the shipment
The order is confirmed TNA format to the central PPC
The central PPC prepares the line plan and sends it to the factory PPC
PCD date is decided and the PP meeting is held.
Production starts
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7. I.E.D. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
7.1 HIERARCHY
MANAGERCENTRAL TECHNICAL CELL
ASST. I.E. MANAGER

7.2 INTRODUCTION
ASST. I.E. MANAGER
As the order is procured the sample garment is first handed over to the IED to calculate the thread consumption and trim consumption.
As the orders are confirmed a copy of purchase order is sent to the IED and IED prepares an operation bulletin. Based on the operation bulletin the IED works out the SAM values using the GSD and plans the line on 65% efficiency. Depending on the SAM values the IED allot number of operators to each operation. The IED then sends the requirement of operators, machines and folders to the PPC department that at 65% efficiency to produce 1000 pieces per day we require these many operators and machines.
After the operation bulletin sheets are ready the IED generates a list of machines, folders and guides required and sends it to the maintenance department. Then they prepare the line layout in such a manner that the flow of materials in the line is unidirectional. Page 32
Besides this the IED performs the important task of maintaining the skill inventory which is updated every month. IED also keeps a track on the hourly production and maintains the daily WIP report and daily production report which is sent to the PPC department. Apart from this the IED also takes care of the work methods that are being used on the floor.
Besides this the IED also plans and balance the line on a daily basis keeping the absenteeism and other factors in consideration.
7.3 FUNCTION OF IE DEPARTMENT
Receive the line plan Analyse the line plan and request of sample Receive sample Analyse sample Discuss the style with FM/AQM/APM/PM/Maintenance Prepare OB, Layout and Thread consumption Prepare Machinery, template, folder and work aid Prepare mocks of critical operation and for any changes in construction Send mocks to marketing for approval and followup Prepare manpower requirement along with PM Prepare cutting requirement and send it to cutting section and followup
Batch setting - Arrange for Machines, folders, work aids and manpower.
Study critical operation and solve bottlenecks Followups of systems in Batch Line balancing for production optimization
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Conduct meeting for supervisors and incharges to update them with production and efficiency status Incentive schemes design and implementation Grading of operators Training to fresh tailors Training of existing tailors in critical operations Training non tailors in tailoring for fututre use Recieve future samples from PPC/Marketing.
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8. SPREADING
The factory has the manual way of spreading. As referred by the CAD department (mini marker), the cutting master decides upon the lay length and fabric width depending on the marker dimensions. The width of the fabric is measured in inches and lay length in meters and then the suitable cutting table is determined. Lay length is marked on the cutting table and lay end cutter is adjusted depending on it. Accordingly, a paper is first stuck to the table on which the fabric gets laid. The first layer of fabric is also stuck so that the width and length variations wont happen. The laying of the fabric starts. Once the first lay is adhered on to the table, splicing marks are made with a white chalk which can be easily removed after spreading and avoids confusion with the other marks. Three helpers are involved in the spreading of a single lay. Two people move with the fabric and the other person helps in releasing the fabric from the roll or the folded taka. This prevents the fabric to get unnecessarily stretched and folded during the spreading process. Since the fabric width varies with rolls or takas, care is taken to ensure that the lay height is uniform in one side and the other side is allowed to vary. Noting down the lay length and the fabric consumed also helps in finding out the whether the ordered quantity is delivered by the supplier. The width variations are also clearly noted and can be reported back to the supplier regarding the shortages. The nap direction is depending upon the garment styling or the buyer requirements or the fabric type. The cutting master will determine it seeing the garment sample approved by the buyer. For example, for corduroy fabric, nap direction has to be one way down.
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9. CUTTING DEPARTMENT
9.1 HEIRARCHY OF FLOW
FACTORY MANAGERCENTRALISED CUTTING
CAD MANAGER
CUTTING MANAGER
9.2 INTRODUCTION
Cutting is the pre production process of separating a spread into garment parts that are the precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a marker. The cutting process may also involve transferring marks and notches from the marker to the garment parts to assist operators in sewing. Chopping or sectioning a spread into blocks of piece goods may precede precision cutting of individual pattern shapes. This is often done to allow accurate matching of fabric design or easier manipulation of a cutting knife.
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9.3 PROCESS FLOW
Final approved patterns received in the CAD department
Patterns are digitised
Markers prepared
Mini marker is printed
Approved marker printed and issued to cutting
Fabric is issued from the stores
Lay prepared
Cutting of lay
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Cutting of lay
Ply numbering
Fusing
Bundling
Issued to production
9.3.1 PREPARATION OF MARKER FOR VARIOUS STYLES: The final approved pattern inspected by QA department, is for marker preparation. All the patterns are digitized in order to prepare a marker for the style.
Care is taken while digitizing at various shapes such as smooth curves, notch positions, marking positions if any. The cuttable width of the fabric is noted and taken care while making each marker.
The repeat variation along warp and weft direction is measured before making a marker. The fabric design has to be analyzed prior to marker making whether it is lengthwise or widthwise.
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After the digitized patterns transferred to system, the marker making is done considering following. All the parts of a garment should be positioned. Based on the no. of the ways the lay has to be cut, all particular sizes of a garment to be positioned. Best combination of sizes has to be generated in order to reduce fabric consumption as much as possible. The cuttable direction of parts has to be positioned as required. (ex: any part to be cut in bias direction). The one way or two way design of the fabric has to be analysed and parts to be placed accordingly. The matching parts required in a garment have to be positioned accordingly.(ex: front to pocket, sleeve to yoke) Seam allowance required has to be positioned properly. Proper length has to be taken for folder operations done in sewing. No part should get overlapped on other part. Extra care to be taken in saving the fabric consumption while making the marker.
After the complete marker is ready, it is printed as a minimarker and is discussed with cutting incharge / QA for any modifications / corrections. The approved marker is printed through a plotter and is issued to cutting incharge. The same procedure is followed while doing a marker for interlining also. The marker files are saved as documentation with a style name.
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NOTE: Since the fabric is going to be cut using the marker directly the general information on garment making has to be kept in mind :
General matching requirements in a shirt
Collar to balanced horizontally and vertically. Match top collar with top neckband Match top neckband with inside yoke Match top collar with top yoke Fronts to be matched horizontally Pairing & symmetry required between vertical fronts. Pocket to match with front Cuff to be paired horizontally Top sleeve placket to be matched horizontally and verticlally to sleeve Top yoke line should be straight Sleeve to be matched with yoke. Sleeves to be balanced horizontally in case of half sleeve shirt.
9.3.2 PREPARATION OF LAY :
The fabric is collected from stores along with QA reports. Fabric roll is mounted on stand. The lay length and number of plies in a lay is fixed. The spreading of fabric is done for the correct length and number of plies, the same is ensured by cutting QA. The pins position on a table is placed as per the requirement and standards. The bowing / skewing / repeat variation in fabric are considered while positioning the pins. Spreading is done following the pins position along the length and width of the lay. After the lay is completed the end bits are measured / documented and kept aside. Top, middle and bottom plies are checked for matching accuracy.
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9.3.3 LAY CUTTING: After the lay is complete, the cut file from cad section is transferred to cutting system for lay cutting. Before cutting the lay the marker is seen as a preview in the cutting system for any more confirmation Complete auto cutting of the lay is done. Any error in cutting is observed and is highlighted while cutting process to avoid any more loss. Top, middle and bottom cut parts are checked for cutting accuracy visually and by keeping the pattern over cut piece. The cut pieces are transferred into transfer trolley for numbering process. 9.3.4 PLY NUMBERING : Numbering of each ply has to be done for all parts, following the top sticker as reference and is done in the same sequence is used to number all parts. No individual ply gets skipped while numbering. The position of the numbering sticker is decided in such a way that it should not disturb the operator while sewing. 9.3.5 FUSING OPERATION : Normally parts required to be fused in a basic shirt are: 1) Top collar 2) Top neckband 3) Top cuff 4) Button hole front placket While starting a fusing the important parameters to be set are: 1) Temperature 2) Pressure 3) Timing All the above parameters should be set perfect and any Variation should be calibrated accordingly. The perfect lining to be chose according to the type of Fabric. Following the instructions of fusing material supplier, tests to be done on a mock fabric to ensure the quality. The required bond strength for a different fusing material has to be checked frequently. The temperature at the fusing surface should be Page 41

checked thrice in a day, using thermal strips. Care should be taken while using fusing material for different fabrics. Care should be taken in case of checks / stripes fabrics for a balanced way of fusing at collar tips. The seam allowances all round the part has to be maintained properly and evenly according to the ready pattern. Random check on fusing parts using a ready pattern should be done. Whenever needed the fusing parts have to be spot welded first and then the actual fusing in a machine has to be done. The fusing machines belt should be kept very clean all the time and frequent spraying has to be done for cleaning.
9.4 CUTTING ROOM EQUIPMENTS

Job
Spreading Marker laying Cutting of Blocks Ticketing/ Numbering Bundling Small parts cutting Relay / mitering Sleeve opening and cutting of fusing Yoke mitering (matching stripes) Parts inspection (checking is done for weaving, shade variation, shape out ; if any defect is found, a green sticker is applied on it) Spot fusing (only for collar band) Fusing Fusing inspection (Gum Checking) Bundle Card printing Small parts relaying (collar, sleeve placket) Issue to sewing floor (Batch wise; approx. 600 pcs per batch) 3 2 labors, 1 helpers 1 1 3 Iron Fusing M/c Temperature stripes Data Entry Band knife 8
No. of Labors
12 labours (manual) 1 3 6 12 3 8 11+8 1
Equipment Used
End cutters, scissors, layweight
Straight Knife, Metal gloves Slitting numbering m/c, Max numbering m/c
Band Knife Scissors, Straight knife, Clips
Loading -1, Issue -1
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10. EMBROIDERY
Embroidery is a decorative pattern superimposed on an existing fabric by machine stitching using polyester, cotton or rayon threads, or handle needle-work using linen, cotton, wool, silk, gold or silver thread. The cut parts are embroidered using multihead machines. A lustrous appearance is generally preferred for embroidery as an alternative to the rayon threads, mercerized cotton or spun polyester threads may be used. About 6 meters of thread is consumed for 1000 stitches and about 2 meters of bobbin thread. The bobbin thread tension is kept much tighter than the embroidery thread so that only latter appears on the surface of the fabric. Embroidery may require the use of a backing fabric to ensure a uniform appearance of stitching. Backings are normally non-woven and may be tear-aways.
A. Machine make: SWF Sun star Precision Co. Ltd.(German) B. Software- Wilcom Software C. Features: Machine details 18 heads and 9 needles(colors) and 9 loopers Thread breakage indicators Stitch density adjusters Pneumatically controlled thread cutter Speed : Maximum 800 stitches per minute : General operating speed - 650 stitches per minute Capacity : 1800 logos in a shift : 1 design per minute Cost : Rs.3 per 1000 stitches Stitch class : 304 lockstitch Maximum height of logo: 75 cm Maximum width of logo: 40 cm
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C. Materials required Thread used: Trilobal polyester thread Manufacturer: Picasso Package: cone of 900 meters Ticket: 100 Tex: 27 Spun polyester thread Manufacturer : Madura Coats Package : tube of 100 meters Ticket : 100 Tex : 27 100% Viscose filament rayon thread (artsilk rayon) Manufacturer : Natesh Package : spool of 900 meters Ticket : 100 Tex : 27 Weight : 20 gms Needle used : DBX5 size: 11
Frame used Three types of frames : Pantograph Frames Plastic frames Silk frames Size: 7,9,12,15,18,21 inches diameter
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D. Stitch Types Run stitch Satin Stitch Zig-Zag Stitch E-Stitch Straight Stitch Tatani Sitch Stem Stitch Contour Stitch Coil Stitch
D. Embroidery development: Logo specifications sent by the buyer Respective design formulated on computer (sourced from Ulsoor, contains all specifications of the logo, price depends on the stitch density) Thread selection provided by the buyer Embroidery done on the correct fabric with the correct thread and sent for approval
E. Steps in embroidering: Development of computerized design Selection of appropriate thread and frame based on buyer requirement Machine setup Embroidery at cut parts Fabric and backing fixed on frames and set in the machine Embroidery by movement of pantograph Running stitch to give backup and support to embroidery stitch Stitch density, needle selection can be made
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BUNDLING PREPARATION :
A bundle tag is prepared which should have the following details: Buyer name Style number P.o. number Colour name Shade Part name Bundle number Size identification Total quantity Serial number. The quantity of pieces in a bundle has to be divided properly for all parts, ( 10 nos, 15 nos or 20 nos) Bundling is done for all parts, individually Insert a bundle tag having the above mentioned details for each bundle After completion of individual bundling of a lot is done, a master tag is tied for a complete lot. The master bundle is kept ready in a trolley to load into sewing section.
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11. QUALITY MANAGAMENT IN CUTTING
The cutting department has its cutting quality controller who controls the quality of various cutting room processes. Quality is maintained from point fabric reaches the room to the point where cut parts is handed over to sewing floor. The general process flow for cutting inspection is as follows:
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The fabric is checked both qualitatively and quantitatively once it reaches the cutting room. The fabric first undergoes the shrinkage test before the spreading. Around 10% of the total bulk of fabric takes the shrinkage test. Blankets are cut out from each of the rolls. Mark 50 cm x 50 cm rectangle in it and are sent for washing. Unwashed and washed blankets are compared for the shrinkage analysis. Shrinkage report is made after the analysis. Average degree of shrinkage is a guide to determine whether the garment will go out of size after washing. Thus enough allowances can be added to patterns before in hand to avoid unnecessary variations after production. Also the fabric is checked for the shade variations after washing. Shade Band Approval form is the standard for the shade variation references. Shades can be accepted or rejected based on this from the mini- markers are referred to determine the lay length and width. The fabric is spread then. Now the fabric is cross- checked with the fabric inspection report sent from the warehouse along with the fabric. Fabric inspection report gives an idea on the quality of the fabric received, length and width of the fabric. While spreading, the spreading girls could determine whether there is any variations in dimensions as mentioned in received goods note. The length of the roll, the fabric used, and the excess fabric is mentioned in the lay chart. Once, the spreading is over, the cutting quality controller checks the spreading quality. The lay is checked for the position of the one edge of the lay exactly parallel to the table edge and the aligned with the previous ply. The extent to which the edges are uneven influence the usable width of the fabric and fabric utilization. Since the spreading is manual, there is every chance that the fabric is spread with varied tensions. The lay is also checked for the tight or slack lays which results in under or over- sizes after cutting. The spreaders could also check for any shade variations within the roll which is left unnoticed during the fabric inspection. Any fault found in spreading is rectified in that stage only. Quality controller also checks for the fabric feeding and handling while spreading as a preventive for faults. Then all the patterns received are checked for the pattern accuracy before marking. The ready pattern measurements are taken against the measurement from the buyer. All the notch depths, notch placements, seam allowances, trims placements are also checked. Any deviations away from the tolerance are changed in the pattern. This prevents the chance of any size variations after sewing. Page 48

In case of CAD marking, the marker is checked if there is same number of patterns, notches are properly placed and enough allowance is given for splicing. Splices are caused by the cutting out of damaged material during spreading, by the introduction of a new piece to a spread to complete a part- ply. The marker is spread over the lay then. Also whether the marking is done for the usable width is checked. The markers are also checked for the proper nap, proper grain, any pattern overlaps etc Now the parts are cut out of the lay. The cut- parts are checked for size accuracy with the ready pattern the quality controller is having. The pattern sizes are checked with top, middle and bottom plies. Under or over- sized parts are changed and replaced with the accurate parts. Any notch placement or notch-cut problem is rectified. Cutting is verified with the cutting inspection report with determines the quality of cutting and steps to correct it. The cut components are numbered. The cut parts are checked for the proper numbering. Random checking is done by picking some parts, and verify against the shades with the same number of other parts. This helps in avoiding shade variations due to improper numbering. Bundles are checked with the proper ticket to avoid any size mixing between the parts.
11.1 QUALITY PROBLEMS DURING PRE SEWING PROCESSES:

11.1.1 Marker Making Defects: Size Mixing, Components not correctly labelled in marker. Patterns facing incorrect direction on napped fabrics. Pattern facing is in different direction (either way) on a one way fabric. Garment component omitted during marker making. Patterns misaligned with respect to the fabric grain. Line definition poor (e.g. too thick chalk, indistinctly printed line) leading to inaccurate cutting. Mismatched checks and stripes.
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11.1.2 Spreading Defects: Plies misaligned. Incorrect tension of plies. Fabric spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not to fit in sewing and finished garments not to meet size tolerance. Spread distorted by the attraction or repulsion of plies caused by excessive static electricity. Plies not all facing in correct direction (whether one way as with nap, or one way either way as with some check designs) Unacceptable damages situated in garment parts.
11.1.3 Cutting Problems: Inaccurate cutting Distorted garment parts. Top and Bottom plies of different sizes. Notches - Misplaced, too deep or omitted Drill marks Misplaced not perpendicular through the spread. Frayed edges/fused edges Caused by a faulty knife, not sharp enough, or rotating at too high a speed. Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread. Slits opened inaccurately or omitted. Mixed plies resulting in Shaded Garment parts when assembled. Mixed size parts resulting in uneven appearance. Inconsistent grain and surface of the skin.
11.1.4 Bundling and Ticketing: Numbering: Pasting of number stickers on all the components of all the garments. The number acts as the identification of the component and the lot from which the component is cut. Bundling: Assembling the cut components in small batches of pre defined numbers as per the requirements of production system. Ticketing: The process of attaching a ticket to all the bundles that provides basic information about the bundle and the components in the bundle.
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Important points: Numbering should be done on wrong side of fabric only. Number stickers should be checked for glue. Numbering of a ply twice or skipping of a ply should not occur. The information on bundle tickets must be accurate. Care must be taken to avoid mixing of components of different sizes in a bundle. Sewn on shade marking tickets falling off, damaging fabric, omitted, misplaced or wrongly numbered. Adhesive shade marking tickets falling off or sticking too hard, omitted, misplaced, and wrongly numbered. Bundles or boxes not stacked in box, or rolled in correct order in bundles or rolled or folded too tightly causing creases. Work tickets, coupon payment tickets, or progress ticket omitted, misplaced or mixed makes both quality and quality control difficult. Wrong size, wrong shade, wrong type of trimmings put in bundle.
Problems of fusing: Discoloration after fusing: The temporary or permanent change in shade, color of a fabric caused by the action of heat on certain dyes during fusing. Strike through: Strike through means the adhesive resin is appeared on the outer of the fabric being used. Interlining shrinking more than shell fabric. Strike Back: Strike back means the adhesive resin is appeared on the non adhesive side of the fusible interlining after fusing. Shine/ Glazing and Discoloration: The temporary or permanent change in shade, color of a fabric caused by the action of heat on certain dyes during fusing. Fusing Distortion: Fusing distortion means garment panels are distorted during the fusing process. This problem should be prevented as distorted garment panel after fusing cannot be corrected other than discarded as waste. Page 51

Fusing Delamination: Fusing delamination, sometimes appear as bubbling or rippling is the complete breakdown of bond between fusible interlining and the fabric surface. It is normally found after the garment has been dry cleaned or washed. Production Processes (Pre Sewing): Production processes (Pre Sewing) means the inspection of parts before they are assembled into a complete product. This is done to check that no defective parts are fed on the sewing floor so that it does not hamper the sewing.
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12.
12.1 HIERARCHY
FACTORY MANAGER
SEWING DEPARTMENT
PPC MANAGER
WAREHOUSE/ DISPATCH MANAGER
MAINTENANCE MANAGER
MANUFACTURING MANAGER
FINISHING MANAGER
MAINTENANCE SUPERVISOR
LINE SUPERVISORS
FINISHING SUPERVISORS
ELECTRICIANS
MECHANICS
12.2 INTRODUCTION The dominant process in garment industry is Sewing, still the best way of achieving both strength and flexibility in the seam itself as well as flexibility of manufacturing method. Much of the application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the achievement of satisfactorily sewn seams. The objectives of sewing are the construction of seams, which combine the required standards of appearance and performance with an appropriate level of economy in production.
12.3 LAYOUT STUDY: Sewing in Arvind is unique with the most modern machine in the business and a good layout. It is basically divided into eleven lines, numbered alphabetically from A to K. K line is dedicated to the training purpose A line is divided into 2 sections First, the Sewing Prepararory a. collar preparation b. cuff preparation c. sleeve preparation d. back preparation e. front preparation Page 53

Second, the Assembly section Each line has about 55 sewing machines, 5 kaja buttons, 2 workstations, 8 ironers and 10 helpers( the numbers may vary as per the style) Each line has a part supervisor and an assembly supervisor and also an 2 IE incharge. In between there are four inspection table , one after back section another one after front section , next after side seam is stitched and last is the end of line checking. All of them are doing 100 % inspection as the operators are new and they are not consistent in quality and thus increasing labor cost as well as throughput time of the garment. Each line has a supervisor and an assistant supervisor; also an incharge for two lines monitoring the production and trying to balance the line The factory works in one shift. Shift timings: , working hours: 8 (480 mins).
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13. FINISHING DEPARTMENT
After sewing, the completed garments move to the finishing department. The finishing section basically consist of : 1. Thread trimming 2. Thread dusting 3. Checking 4. Ironing 5. Final checking 6. Folding 7. Packing 8. Kaja and Buttoning
13.1 PROCESS FLOW

Garment Storage
Trimming
Rough checking
Dusting
Measurement checking
Final Checking
button Fixing
Ironing
Auditing
Dusting
Material fixing
Folding
Packing
Tagging
Shading
presentation Pressing
Sizewise Division
Packaging
Final Inspection
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13.2. TRIMMNG AND INSPECTION
After the garments come back from washing (optional) these are checked for internal seams and for loose fibers/yarns, seam defects, stains etc and in case of a defect it is send to stain removal section or for alteration and the thread is cut out.
13.2.1. TRIMMING AND INITIAL CHECKING: There are in all four lines for trimming and initial checking. Trimming consist of cutting off extra unwanted threads from the garments. After trimming the garment goes for initial checking. This is basically done to check the overall quality of seams and to ensure that any part didnt get cut during trimming. They check for the defects also and if any defect is encountered the garment goes for alteration. If the trimming section encounters any washing defects the garments are sent for the stain-removal. There is an alteration line which consists of three single needle lock-stitch machines and one button sewing machine for altering the defects encountered in the finishing. They are maintaining a separate trimming section report.
13.2.2. THREAD DUSTING: After trimming and initial checking the garment goes for thread dusting. There are two thread sucking machines which removes all the trimmed threads and dust from the garment. Insert the data about the machine
13.2.3. STAIN REMOVAL: They are using white petrol to remove off the bundle ticket sticker gum. The other reagents used for stain removal are as follows: Bleach HF Baby soap Spot lifter-removes grease and oil stain
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13.2.4. PRESSING: There are in all four lines for pressing and ironing. these four lines consist of 25 ironing tables and besides this there are three buck presses. as the garment comes for the ironing it goes to buck presses first where the shoulder and the back yoke is ironed and then it goes for proper ironing. The various pressing instructions followed for M&S are as follows: Garments must lay flat, not crumpled prior to pressing. Ensure no crease marks on the body and sleeves. Ensure no dirt marks or stains. No loose threads. No dirty marks. Pressman puts the hanger. No shine marks should appear on the garment.
13.2.5. BUTTONING: After the garments are ironed it goes to buttoning where all the buttons of the shirt are closed. There are in all four operators for the same.
13.2.6. FINAL CHECKING
13.2.7. RANDOM AUDIT: Just before the measurement checking a random piece is selected and examined.
13.2.8. 100% MEASUREMENT CHECKING: After the random audit is done, the garment goes for 100% measurement checking. Here the entire garment is checked for all the measurements according to the final spec sheet. After 100% measurement checking if the garment is pure black or white then, 100% air dusting of the garment is done.
13.2.9. FOLDING: There are in all four lines for folding. These comprise of 16 folding machines.
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13.3. PRESENTATION CHECKING; After folding the garment goes for presentation checking. here all the garments are checked for the correct placement of various size labels, tags and collar line ,matching, whether the folding has been done properly or not and no crease formation is there anywhere in the garment in order to ensure that the garment meets all the presentable requirements.
13.4. PRESSING DEPT 36 ironing tables 32 operators 6 helpers After ironing, garments are put on the hangers
13.5. FINAL INSPECTION 5 inspection tables 20 operators ( 2 on each table) If garment is passed, a sticker saying OK is put on the time label) 24 points in check list
13.6. TAGGING V. Swing tags (tied on the second button from top) Bar code Tag / Sealed Tag ( 6th button hole ,i.e. , 2nd last) [Thread length 12cm] Stretch Tag right sleeves cuff button Fresh tag Kimble polybag
13.7. PACKING TRIMS Collar Support (White Band) Gripper(V-clip, Metal clip) Button fly Tissue Paper (17 GSM & 500 mm x 375mm) Collar bone (detachable) Back support (silver board) (700 GSM) Page 58

Belly Band(dpending on style) Bar code stickers Pins Size tab Collar traveller (plastic) Collar sizer Polybag (200 GSM & 260 mm x 350mm) Round head pins Bullets
13.8. FOLDING AND PACKING 14 folding tables are there 3 packing tables are there Collar foaming m/c is there for better finishing of collar
Finally, presentation checking is done (for size, labels, threads, etc.)
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14.QUALITY DEPARTMENT
14.1. HIERARCHY
CHIEF MANAGER QUALITY
QUALITY MANAGER
QUALITY MANAGER
QUALITY MANAGER
QUALITY MANAGER-FABRIC INSPECTION
QUALITY MANAGERS
QUALITY CONTROLLERS
QUALITY CONTROLLERS
QUALITY CONTROLLERS
QUALITY CONTROLLERS
14.2. INTRODUCTION
Quality is a necessary element that applies to all aspects of conducting business in today's market. Quality assurance is the process of designing, producing, evaluating, and checking products to determine if they meet a desired quality level for a company's target market. Continuous improvement of all operations and activities is at the heart of TQM. Once it is recognized that customer satisfaction can only be obtained by providing a high-quality product, continuous improvement of the quality of the product is seen as the only way to maintain a high level of customer satisfaction. As well as recognizing the link between product quality and customer satisfaction, TQM also recognizes that product quality is the result of process quality. As a result, there is a focus on continuous improvement of the company's processes. This will lead to an improvement in process quality. In turn this will lead to an improvement in product quality, and to an increase in customer satisfaction. Improvement cycles are encouraged for all the company's activities such as product development, use of EDM/PDM, and the way customer relationships are managed. This implies that all activities include measurement and monitoring of cycle time and responsiveness as a basis for seeking opportunities for improvement. Page 60

Elimination of waste is a major component of the continuous improvement approach. There is also a strong emphasis on prevention rather than detection and an emphasis on quality at the design stage. The customer-driven approach helps to prevent errors and achieve defect-free production. When problems do occur within the product development process, they are generally discovered and resolved before they can get to the next internal customer. The statistical analysis of engineering and manufacturing facts is an important part of TQM. Facts and analysis provide the basis for planning, review and performance tracking, improvement of operations, and comparison of performance with competitors. The TQM approach is based on the use of objective data, and provides a rational rather than an emotional basis for decision making. The statistical approach to process management in both engineering and manufacturing recognizes that most problems are system-related, and are not caused by particular employees. In practice, data is collected and put in the hands of the people who are in the best position to analyze it and then take the appropriate action to reduce costs and prevent non-conformance. Usually these people are not managers but workers in the process. If the right information is not available, then the analysis, whether it be of shop floor data, or engineering test results, can't take place, errors can't be identified, and so errors can't be corrected. Quality department has a go in each and every stage of product development. 14.2.1. AT FABRIC STAGE: Fabric inspection at mills (Arvind mills, Ahmedabad) 4 point system of inspection followed 40 points per 100 sq. meters - acceptance level 100% inspection (if required ) for handloom fabrics 100% shrinkage inspection +_ 1 shrinkage added in patterns In case of shrinkage above tolerance level, the fabric is sent back to mill for zero-zero finish Rolls are segregated roll wise and shrinkage wise
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14.2.2. AT SAMPLING STAGE: Proto sample, fit sample, SMS sample, size set sample and PP samples are all reviewed by internal QCs as well as the Buyer QA before start of bulk production Wash approvals are sent to buyers
14.2.3. AT CUTTING STAGE: Shade, matching parameters, fabric direction in spread according to the Lay Sheet Markers are cross checked by QCs for marker and fabric length, marker and fabric width, number of component parts in the pattern Only after checking the above parameters cut order is released The cut parts are checked for accuracy, fray edges The first, middle and last ply of each cut lay is checked for measurements by comparing it with the original pattern 100% panel checking is done in case the fabric has more defects. The defective parts are recut and put in the lay QC checks relays for matching Everyday two fused parts are washed to check for bubbling o Fused parts are checked for bubbling, strike back, strike through, color bleeding and proper fusing o Numbering of patterns are checked after ticketing and bundling o Auditing is done at the end to check correct parts and sizes in the bundle
14.2.4. AT THE SEWING STAGE: Quality personnel employed:
4 inline checkers in each batch 2 end line checkers in each batch 1 roaming QC (while loading checks for panels, patterns, size numbering, SPI setting, machine setting, thread size and tension) 1 QC incharge for 5 batches 1 QA incharge for finishing Page 62 3 QA incharges

2 mechanics for 3 batches 1 QC for trimming and inside checking 1 QC for ironing and final checking 1 QC for packaging and final presentation
Quality control by: Machine locked after batch setting 100% inline checking for stitch accuracy and measurement Inline checkers near all critical operations 100% end line checking Button holing in all batches Separate button stitching section Random checking done by QCs in the batches All parts of a broken needle are to be found out and submitted by the operator before a new needle is issued Use of metal detectors and thread suckers in order to maintain quality AQL 2.5 followed at the final inspection stage On process of starting self checking and trimming in Batch A and B On the process of acquiring self auditing certification for GAP and Mexx for final inspection
14.2.5. At the finishing stage: Trimming section at the end of every batch Rough checking (inside checking) of all garments Top checking Measurement checking Final checking Carton checking for weight, barcode 101-102% shipping quality
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14.WAREHOUSE
14.1. PROCESS FLOW Buyer issues PO; this is received by PPC; in PPC different people monitor different orders. On this is mentioned: o Order number o Season number o Article/ style number o Colours/ style o Size According to the above especially the size the packing list is made. Assortment may be of two types: o Free assortment: same colour same size in one carton. o Ratio assortment: different colours and sizes maybe packed in the same carton. The packing details, kind of assortment etc are all specified by the buyer. Buyer accepts a variation of maximum 3% from the order quantity, this means
3% more or less may be shipped.The cartons which contain extra pieces are being packed using a red cello tape in order to identify that the pieces contained are without the barcodes. 15 days before the order has to be shipped it must ideally reach the
forwarder.
14.1.1. PREPACKS There are 5 types of prepacks depending on the specifications of the buyer. These prepacks are given certain codes based on the size ratio: XS S M: S M L: M L XL: L XL XXL: L XL XXL XXXL: 21 22 23 26 32 Page 64

14.1.2. MASTER PACKS Master pack contains the following details: o Supplier purchase order number: o Style number: o Prepack size ratios: o Codes: o Colour: 14.1.3. SPECIFICATIONS ON CARTON PACKS o On the length side of the carton the buyer name and address( destinations) are printed o On the second length sides shipping address is printed o On the two mouth sides carton content and details will be marked. The details could be the prepack code etc. o The size of the carton may wary from 40x30x20 onwards o A carton may cost minimum 50-70 rupees per carton. The cost varies from buyer to buyer and carton to carton. The cost may depend on the size of carton, the kind of packing, printing etc. 14.2. FUNCTIONS OF THE SUPERVISOR: To check that the correct quantity has been put in each container Timely packing To check the number of curtains
14.2.1. CAPACITY OF THE WAREHOUSE: 70,000 PIECES
14.2.2. CAPACITY OF THE CONTAINERS The containers have different capacities. For instance: 40 foot container: 16000 pieces 20 foot container: 7- 8000 pieces-
14.2.3. DOCUMENTS MAINTAINED: o Delivery challan o Consignment list o Packing list o QA report Page 65

15.HR DEPARTMENT
15.1. HIERARCHY
CHIEF MANAGERHR
HR MANAGER
ADMINISTRATION MANAGER
HR MANAGER
HR MANAGER
HR MANAGER
OFFICERADMINISTRATION
OFFICER-HR
OFFICER-HR
OFFICER-HR
HR ASSISTANTS
15.2. INTRODUCTION
At Arvind the aim is achieving not only organizational goals but also the growth of an individual as a professional. Over the years they have attracted the finest talent in the country that has enabled Arvind to achieve the present status. The belief is that people are the biggest resource. People with high levels of integrity drive business. The people whose track records show evidence of high achievement, ability to think laterally and come up with innovative ideas.
The HR department is concerned from the beginning till the end of the work cycle of any organization. The activities of the department can be listed as follows: Before recruitment: License from government stating the manpower required Manpower planning for various departments is done. Before recruitment, manpower requirement sheet is prepared with the help of Production Manager Discuss with IED on the number of freshers and experienced people required in each department Announce with the help of Public Address System or through campaigns about the vacancies.
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Recruitment procedure: Gate selection: based on physical appearance and experience After gate selection: IED inquires on technical knowledge HR inquires on age proof, marital status, sex After recruitment Joining formalities are carried out. Separate file for each operator is maintained which has the following records. - age proof, resume, address proof, ESIC form, PF form The induction program is carried out which gives information on factory, manager, process, facilities and policies. Training of operators follows next. - For freshers: reading, writing and handling tests (for hand movements) are taken. As per production requirement for about 45 days. For experienced person: check on the operative skills.
During training, minimum wage is given. After training, the salary is increased. IED grading is done based on training. On send off A full and final settlement is done where the employee gets paid according to his work. A personal exit interview is conducted to find out the reason for exit. Other Activities: Performance appraisal Salary is increased based on performance, experience and behaviour. Attendance bonus scheme and lunch allowance of Rs.182 is given per month. Lucky draw is also conducted among the people who achieve 100% attendance per month who the receive some kind of prize. Administration Salary and wages (staff and technicians)
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Type of operator Salary (fixed by Government) in rupees Highly skilled Skilled Semi-skilled Unskilled 2621 2595 2556 2439
Operator grading A+ A B+ B C+ C D
Gross salary 4200 3800 3600 3400 3200 3000 2439
Salary is given on the 7th day of every month. It is revised at the end of every fiscal financial year. ESIC form It stands for Employee State Insurance Corporation. 1.75% of gross salary is deducted and submitted to govt. They get an ESI no on an ESI card. Employees cause this card to get medical facility for themselves and their families in ESI hospitals freely 4.75% of gross salary is paid by the company to the govt for each employee.
PF form 12% of basic salary is paid to the Provident Fund office. This is refundable. Transport Free bus facility is provided to the operators. 5 to 6 buses are available which pick up the employees from various places. Security Health and safety
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- first aid box maintenance - precautions by use of eye guards, needle protectors, rubber mats, metal gloves etc. Housekeeping Crche facility Horticulture Leave facility 5 personal, earned leaves (1 day in every 20 days) and national leaves are granted to all the employees. Welfare activities: Conducting training programs once in every six month. - fire fighting training - first aid training - supervisor training Counselling for family problems and harassment. Committees are made for: - sexual harassment committee - health and safety committee\ - grievance committee canteen committee transportation committee
Committee meeting is held once in every month. Entry and exit interview are conducted
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16. COMPLIANCE A common compliance department for the shirting and denim export division Looks into the legal requirements of the organization Based on local laws (laws formulated by the government of Karnataka)
16.1.TYPES OF COMPLIANCES: 16.1.1. Social compliance a. Minimum Wages Act b. Child labor c. Non discrimination d. Freedom of Association e. Working hours ( 8 hours by labor law, 2 hrs. overtime with twice the pay allowed) 16.1.2. Health and safety compliance
f. Protection of labor by incorporating safety aids like needle guards, pulley guard, belt guard, mesh gloves, eye guards, Fire
cylinders and aisles 16.1.3. Environmental compliance g. Consent from the Pollution Control Board (PCB)
16.2.ACCREDITATIONS Labs accredited by: Mark & Spencers NEXT Levis-Strauss & Co. INVISTA
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Documents maintained:
Sl.N o 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Compliance Requirement Factory License Standing orders PCB(Pollution Control Board) Fire extinguishers Fire alarms Evacuation Map Name Boards All machines should have safety guards like pulley guard , 8 9 10 11 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 belt guard, needle guard Mock drill Fire training First aid training Fire Noc Emergency light which is battery operated Aisles Rubber mats for ironing Boiler operator - Form 7 Compressor Form 1 & 13 Abstract of the various acts Committees Time records Contractors time records Suggestion box First aid box Ground floor - chindi to be cleared Water testing
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17. MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
During Production, it does the maintenance of Electrical Fittings, various Machines, Pneumatics, Carpentry and Plumbing work to keep the machine orientation in place to avoid any delays and inefficiencies. The maintenance department maintains service reports for all machines which consist of the checklist for that particular machine. Maintenance of all the machines takes place on the following levels: Daily Weekly Monthly Quarterly Preventive maintenance Breakdown maintenance
17.1. CHECKING PROCEDURES SL NO. 01 CHECKING PROCEDURE Clean lubricate 02 Check oil level & flow @ face plate, hook set, oil window. Level should be @ HIGH mark. 03 Check needle bar bush & set the height (as per mark) 04 Clean needle plate & face plate &
check clearance between needle plate grove 05 Clean feed dog & set height. Std height is 0.7 0.8 mm Page 72

06 Clean tension post & adjust spring 07 Clean the hook set & set the timing. Clearance
0.05mm 08 09 10 11 Check gears teeth & ply Check cam ply Check bar tacking lever Clean control box , cord connection 12 Check & clean moving knife, fixed knife & counter knife & adjust properly so that it should cut properly. 13 14 Check edge cutter blade Check & clean edge cutter mechanism 15 Check & fix all outer covers 17.2. MAINTENANCE MANAGER When any new style comes, this department sets up the machines for production. Electrician takes care of Power systems, Boilers, Fusing Machines before factory starts and Switch on all main power lines. Two senior mechanics go for round in morning. They perform Preventive Maintenance and Breakdown Maintenance to maintain productivity.
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17.3. PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
Formulation of an annual, semi-annual, monthly, weekly & daily Maintenance Schedule
Execution of the schedule with a checklist avoiding clashes.
17.4. BREAKDOWN MAINTENANCE
Retrieve and receive information from departments
Evaluate the extent and nature of breakdown
Servicing internally / Externally
Run the equipment under observation
Inspection and checking the machine condition
Inspection and checking the machine condition
DAILY MAINTENANCE 1. Clean the machine and machine area. 2. Check up the threading of the machine. 3. Check up the oil quality and quantity. 4. Advise operator to keep piece of fabric at the bottom of the presser foot at the end of the day 5. Advice operator to switch off the machine after the completion of operation 6. Check the needle tip and needle size used. 7. Check up needle system and size depending up on machine &fabric
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WEEKLY MAINTENANCE 1. Remove the pressure foot, throat plate, feed dog and clean all the parts properly. 2. Remove the motor cover beet guard and clean properly. 3. Adjust hook timing and clearance if necessary. 4. Apply emery or oil stone to smoothen the throat plate, hook tip bur and scratches. MONTHLY MAINTENANCE 1. Monthly once in this, adjust the hook timing and clearance properly & clean the bur. 2. Pour oil up to maximum level 3. All pipes oil flow through pipes should be observed and if necessary control the oil supply. 4. Tight the screw and nut if loosened 5. Apply grease and check up the machines free movements. QUARTERLY MAINTENANCE In three months once general service has to be done.
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PROJECT 1
WORKPLACE REARRANGEMENT
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INTRODUCTION
Production systems
An apparel production system is an integration of material handling, production processes, personnel and equipment that directs workflow and generates finished products. Three types of production systems commonly used to mass produce apparels are: Progressive bundle system Unit production system Modular production system
Each system requires an appropriate management philosophy, material handling methods, floor layout and employee training. Firms may combine or adapt these systems to meet their specific production needs. Firms may use only one system, a combination of systems for one product line or different systems for different product lines in the same plant.
Work Flow
Many parts of garment assemble is sequential, therefore, each operation is dependent on previous operation. This has significant implications in planning work flow and assembly. Work flow is the movement of material and garment parts through the conversion processes. It can be impacted by any part of a production process and constraint that develop. A slow operator, a machine that malfunctions, or flawed fabric may all be constraints to work flow.
Balancing
Balancing is the process of planning a smooth work flow with a steady supply of work for each operation. Balancing invoves planning and scheduling input based on the demand for finished parts and products.
Operators cycle time

Lean defines cycle time as the time it takes to do a process. The other variations of the term: operator cycle times, machine cycle times, or automatic machine times
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NEED OF PROJECT
As observed there was problems occurrence in the sewing floor resulting in the increase in Work in Progress and low productivity. The problem production was facing was related with the process flow and the method of production. The need of project was to giving the industry a new and revised methods and production.
REVIW OF LITERATURE
PRODUCTION PLANNING
Production planning is an integrative process of coordinating the demand for finished goods with available resources. Production planning may work many months ahead of planning delivery to ensure that specific materials, production capacity and reliable quality management are available when needed.
Long Term Production Planning:

Long term production planning(month or selling period) is based on forecasts, merchandise plans, and budgets.
Short Term Production Planning

For days or weeks is based on customer order.
WORK FLOW
Many parts of garment assembly are sequential; therefore, each operation is dependent on the previous operations. This has significant implementations in planning work flow and assembly. Work Flow is the movement of materials and garment parts through the conversion process. It can be impacted by any part of a production process and constraint that develop. A slow operator, a machine that malfunctions, or flawed fabric may all be constraints to work flow.
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PRODUCTION SYSTEMS
The production process involves myriad steps and depends on the talent and skill of many individuals. It is a team effort. Apparel making is not conductive precision mass production. Frequent style changes and varying degrees of fabric work ability force continual adjustment in the manufacturing process standardized equipment is difficult to design and implement and production is therefore dependent on skilled workers. An apparel production system is an integration of material handling, production processes, personnel and equipment that direct work flow and generates finished product. Three types of production systems that are commonly used to mass produce apparel or are: PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM The progressive bundle system(PBS) gets its name from the bundles of garments parts that are moved sequentially from operation to operation. BUNDLES consists of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or garment component for example an operation bundle for pocket setting might include shirt fronts and pockets that are to be attached. Bundle sizes may range from 2 to a 100 parts. Some firms operate with a standard bundle size while other firms vary bundle sizes according to cutting orders, fabric shading, size of pieces in the bundles, and the operation that has to be completed. Some firms use a dozen or a multiple of a dozen because their sales are in dozens. Bundles are assembled in the cutting room where the cut parts are matched up with corresponding parts and bundle tickets. Bundle tickets consist of a master list of operations and corresponding coupons for each operations. Each bundle receives a ticket that identifies the style number, size, shade number, list of operation for routing and the piece rate for each operation. Operators retain a corresponding segment of the bundle coupon for each bundle they complete. At the end of the work day, Page 79

bundle coupons are turned in, and the earned time from completed bundle tickets is totaled to determine the operators compensation. Firms may use electronic bundle tickets or smart cards that accompany each bundle and that are swiped at each workstations along with their own identification card. This reduces paper work, facilitates access to information, and eliminates lost bundle tickets. Bundles of cut parts are transported to sewing room and given to the operator schedule to complete the operation. One operator in expected to perform the same operation on all the pieces in the bundle, retie the bndle, process the coupon and set it aside until it is picked up and moved to the next operation. A PBS may require a high volume of work in process because of the nmber of units in the bndles and the last buffer of backup work that is needed to insure a continuous work flow for all operators. The firms material handling system facilitates bundle movement between operations.
UNIT PRODUCTION SYSTEM

A unit production system (UPS) of garments production is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transporter system to move garment components from work station to work station for assembly. All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor. The overhead rail garments production system consists of the main conveyor and accumulating rails for each work station of garments. The overhead conveyor operates much like a railroad track. Carriers are moved along the main conveyor and switched to an accumulating rail at the work station where an operation is to be performed. At the completion of an operation the operator presses a button, and the carrier moves on to the next operation. Most unit production systems of garments production are linked to a computer control center that routes and tracks production and provides up-to-the-minute data for management decisions. The automatic control of work flow sorts work, balances the line, and reduces claims of favoritism in bundle distribution in garments production. Electronic data collection provides payroll and inventory data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance data for prompt decisions. Page 80

Processing begins at a staging area in the sewing room of garments. Cut parts for one unit of a single style are grouped and loaded directly from the staging area to a hanging carrier. Loading is carefully planned so minimal handling is required to deliver garment parts in precisely the order and manner that they will be sewn. When possible, garments operations are completed without removing the parts from the carrier. Varied sizes and types of hanging carriers are available for different types of garments products. Automated garments handling replaces the traditional garments production system of bundling, tying and untying, and manually moving garment parts. Unit production systems eliminate most of the lifting and turning needed to handle bundles and garment parts. The need for bundle tickets and processing operator coupons is also eliminated when an integrated computer system monitors the work of each garments operator. Individual bar codes or electronic devices are embedded in the carriers and read by a bar code scanner at each workstation and control points in garments factory. Any data that are needed for sorting and processing such as style number, color shade, and lot can be included. Integrated garments production systems have on-line terminals located at each work station to collect data on each operation. Each garment operator may advance completed units, reroute units that need repair or processing to a different station of garments, and check their efficiencies and earnings. Garments operator may signal for more inventory or call for a supervisor if assistance is needed. The terminals at each station enables central control center to track each unit at any given moment and provide garments management with data to make immediate decisions on routing and scheduling. Garments operators of the UPS control center can determine sequences of orders and colors to keep operators supplied with work and to minimize change in equipment, operations, and thread colors. A unit garments production system can control multiple routes and simultaneous production of multiple styles without restructuring production lines in garments. The control center may perform routing and automatic balancing of work flow, which reduces bottlenecks and work stoppages. Each operator as well as the control center is able to monitor individual Page 81

work history. Data can be collected on the amount of time an garments operator works, time spent on each individual unit, number of units completed, the operator who worked on each unit, and the piece rate earned for each unit in garments. The system of garments production will calculate the earnings per hour, per day, and the efficiency rate of each garments operator.
Advantages of Unit Production System

Benefits of a unit garments production system depend on how a production system is used and the effectiveness of management. Throughput time in the sewing room can be drastically reduced when compared to the progressive bundle system of garments production because works in process levels are reduced. Garments operator productivity increases. Direct labor costs are reduced because of prepositioned parts in the carriers and elimination of bundle processing. Indirect labor costs may be reduced by elimination of bundle handling and requiring fewer supervisors. Quality is improved because of accountability of all garments operators and immediate visibility of problems that are no longer concealed in bundles for extended periods of time. The central control system in garments production makes it possible to immediately track a quality problem to the operator that completed the operation. Other benefits that are realized are improved attendance and employee turnover and reduced space utilization.
Disadvantages Unit Production System

Considerations for installing a UPS include costs of buying equipment, cost of installing, specialized training for the production system, and prevention of downtime. Down time is a potential problem with any of the garments production systems, but the low work in process that is maintained makes UPS especially vulnerable.
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MODULAR PRODUCTION SYSTEM
A modular garments production system is a contained, manageable work unit that includes an empowered work team, equipment, and work to be executed. Modules frequently operate as minifactories with teams responsible for group goals and selfmanagement. The number of teams in a plant varies with the size and needs of the firm and product line in garments. Teams can have a niche function as long as there are orders for that type of garments product, but the success of this type of garments operation is in the flexibility of being able to produce a wide variety of products in small quantities in garments. Many different names are currently used to identify modular garments production systems, including modular garments manufacturing, cellular garments
manufacturing units, compact work teams, flexible work groups, self-directed work teams, and Toyota Sewing System (TSS) in garments. The basic premise is similar among these production systems, although the organization and implementation may vary. The number of employees on a team, usually 4 to 15, varies with the product mix. A general rule of thumb is to determine the average number of operations required for a style being produced and divide by three. Team members cross-trained and interchangeable among tasks within the group. Incentive compensation is based on group pay and bonuses for meeting team goals for output and quality. Individual incentive compensation is not appropriate for team-based garments production. Teams may be used to perform all the operations or a certain portion of the assembly operations depending on the organization of the module and processes required. Before a firm can establish a modular production system, it must prioritize its goals and make decisions that reflect the needs of the firm. With a team-based system operators are given the responsibility for operating their module to meet goals for throughput and quality. The team is responsible for maintaining a smooth work flow, meeting production goals, maintaining a specified quality level, and handling motivational support for the team. Team members develop an interdependency to improve the process and accomplish their goals. Page 83

Interdependency is the relationship among team members that utilizes everyone's strengths for the betterment of the team.
Material Handling
Material handling is concerned with the efficient movement of goods through the conversion process. From the time fabric is unloaded from the truck until finished garments are packaged and shipped, storage and movement of materials and work in progress must be planned and tracked to facilitate throughput. Handling materials does not add value to a product, but it affects work flow and productivity Handling costs can be reduced by eliminating as much handling as possible and reducing the distance materials are moved. Three aspects of material handling need to be planned and evaluated: 1. Handling and processing of incoming goods. 2. Movement of work in progress. 3. Distribution of the finished product. Handling incoming goods may in involve unloading trucks, inventorying, tagging, moving, shading, testing and storing. Each firm has its own procedure for handling materials as they are received. Efficient material handling and management in the receiving stage can reduce costs during production. Materials that are adequately labeled, inspected, and tested for verification of specifications can be accessibly stored for immediate use. Large inventory of materials increase the handling required and storage costs.
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PRESENT LAYOUT
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OBSERVED AREAS OF BACK TRACKING:
From Collar Bottom Hem to Collar Band Run
From Collar Band Fusing Attach to Neckband Trimming
Cuff Tape Attach to Collar Trimming
Kansai Special to Button hole Sleeve Placket
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PROBLEMS OBSERVED : Bundle searching and deciding which bundle to do first(i.e. according to Sr. No.). Not proper sequence of process flow is maintained. Too much of material handling. Increased WIP due to Machine breakdown Unnecessary interaction between operators Too much of time wastage due to operator going to fetch the thread if its over. Absenteeism of operators. Time wastage in operator searching the maintenance personnel for repairing the machine breakdown. Very less fully skilled operators, more medium skilled operators.(Speed of execution operation is less). INCREASED NEEDLE TO NEEDLE DISTANCE:
Collar band Piping attach to collarband fusing attach
Collar Loop Attach to Collar N/B Attach
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Upper sleeve Placket attach to Upper Sleeve Placket Finish
Page 91

PART 1
Suggestions and Solutions
I. II. III. Proper Batch setting. Removal of ideal machine. Maintain sequential flow of materials.
Page 92

PROPOSED LAYOUT:
PROPER PROCESS LAYOUT
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Comparision needle to needle distance

Total needle distance covered in the present layout = 2400 inches (Approx) Total needle distance covered in the proposed layout =2335 inches (Approx)
Improvements
1. Proper Sequence is achieved. 2. No Backtracking in this layout. 3. Needle to Needle distance is decreased in selected areas.
Limitations
1. The Layout has to be changed Style wise.
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PART 2
Observations:Bundle pick up time(in sec) :
OPERATIONS Collar Run Collar Trimming Neck Band Patch Attach Neck Band Fusing Attach Neck Band Piping Attach Collar Band Trimming Neck Band Collar Attach Pick Ready: Collar Topstitch Loop Attach Neck Band Topstitch Cuff Hem Cuff Run stitch Cuff Topstitch Lower Sleeve Placket Upper Sleeve Placket Back Yoke Attach : Pocket Attach : Buttonhole Placket Attach : Button Placket Attach AVERAGE TIME(sec) 2.85 2.25 6.03 3.54 2.97 2.11 3..03 6.23 2.51 2.79 2.56 6.75 2.15 2.93 5.82 2.03 5.61 3.52 2.19 3.73
Reason for increase in Bundle searching:

High WIP due to which mixing of bundles takes place resulting in operator searching for the particular bundle.
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Solution for Easy Bundle Searching:
Attaching partitions horizontally on the centre table for division of Bundles. The centre table is divided into partitions of 10 inches by making a groove on the table surface such that it holds the wooden slot wall. The walls can be placed on these grooves as desired to be placed. Each operator is allotted 2 slot minimum to drop and push it forward to make I serial wise for proper sequence. Operator has to finish his work and place his bundle in the slot of the respected operator and push it forward. In case WIP increases at certain operation and the slot is full, the operator can put the extra bundles in the attached bin to the table for each operator. Further a helper could help to put the extra bundles on the table after the WIP gets low. In case of any machine breakdown happens anywhere it can be assumed that the bundles maximum reached is 3 or 4.(Slots have enough space for 3 to 4 bundles). In case of any machine to be added in the line for different Style the slot can be adjusted as per distance of space needed.
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PROPOSED LAYOUT
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Improvements 1. Time reduced in bundle searching, since sequence is maintained here. 2. Reduced bundle mishandling. 3. Proper use of centre table space. 4. Decreased operators confusion regarding the bundles. Cost of Implementation Dimension of 1 partition board = 20 inch X 2 inch Area of 1 partition board = 40 sq. inch No. of partition boards required = 46 pcs Total required area = 40 X 46 = 1840 sq.inch = 154 sq. ft (approx)
Considering, cost of 1 sq.ft of the material used to be C INR Total material cost = 154C INR Labour Cost = 500 INR per day(8 hrs) Per hour labor cost = 62.50 INR
Considering a single labour works for Y hrs for 1 table Total labour cost = 62.50Y INR Therefore, total cost per table = (154C + 62.50Y)INR Page 100

Limitations 1. Limited area assigned for a machine. 2. Style dependent. 3. Operator could experience some difficulty while the helper puts the extra bundles on the centre table when respected WIP gets low.
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Apparel Internship Report

Submitted by: Sumit Verma Ujjwal Surin BFT- 7 NIFT Bangalore

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

1.1. ORGANIZATIONAL PROFILE

PRODUCT CATEGORY FABRIC SUPPLIERS

MONTHLY PRODUCTION CAPACITIES

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Welfare and Safety Officer

Asst. IED Manager

Cutting Incharge Spreading and Cutting

Cutiing Supervisor Maintenance and Electricians

Maintenance House Keeping Factory Head(Mr. Madhu)

Asst. Production Manager Sewing Supervisor

Quality Supervisor Quality Quality Auditors

Finishing Incharge FInishing Finishing Supervisor

Fabric Store Stores Trim Store

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

3.1 HEIRARCHY OF FLOW:

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Reserve production capacity

Calculate Fabric and Trim consumption

Is the buyer nominating the vendor?

Sourcing from nominated Vendor

N Sourcing of fabric from Arvind mills, Ahmedabad

Fabric Trims approved

Cost negotiation and approval

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Mini Markers made

Proto sample approval

P.O(Purchase Order) confirmed and received

Orders the bulk fabric and trims

Fit sample approved

Fabric Performance testing

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Bulk production starts

T.O.P(Top of Production) samples approval

Trims and packaging materials procurement

Size Set Samples approval

PP meeting(confirmation to start cutting)

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.

Apparel Internship Report 2012

Prepares the shipment invoice

Order Completion Report made

Arvind Export Pvt. Ltd.