How To Rebuild Your Small-Block Ford - 0912656891

How to ffnd out what needs fixing, How'to remqve engine, t&r do1
and inspbct for wear, repair 6 mandiBcin,

d
Covers all yebrsb
: &/models
Boss 30g
351 W
~ 5
how to rebuild your
SMALL-BLOCK FORD
by Tom Monroe
Registered Professional Engineer;
Member, Society of Automotive Engineers
. . . . . . INTRODUCTION
Chapter 1
DO YOU NEED TO REBUILD? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Chapter 2
ENGINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Chapter 3
PARTS IDENTI FlCATlON & INTERCHANGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Chapter 4
TEARDOWN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Chapter 5
INSPECTING & RECONDITIONING THE SHORTBLOCK . . . . . . . . . . 51
Chapter 6
HEAD RECONDlTlONlNG & ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Chapter 7
ENGINE ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Chapter 8
DISTRIBUTOR REBUILD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Chapter 9
ENGINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Chapter 10
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TUNEUP 155
INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
ANOTHER FACT-FILLED AUTOMOTIVE BOOK FROM H.P. BOOKS
Notice: The information contained in this book i s true and complete t o the best of our
knowledge. Al l recommendations on parts and procedures are made without any guarantees
on the part of the author or HPBooks. Because ,the quality of parts, materials and methods
are beyond our control, author and publisher disclaim al l liability incurred in connection
with the use of this information.
The cooperation of Ford Motor Company i s gratefully acknowledged. However, this
publication i s a wholly independent production of H.P. Books (Fisher Publishing Inc.).
Publisher and Editor: Bill Fisher; Editor-in-Chief: Carl Shipman; Ar t Director: Don Burton; Book
Design; Tom Jakeway: Typography: Cindy Coatsworth, Connie Brown, Kris Spitler; Drawings and
photos: Tom Monroe; Cover photo: Don Winston.
Published by H.P. Books, P. 0. Box 5367, Tucson, AZ 85703 6021888-2150
ISBN 0-91 2656-89-1
Library of Congress Card Catalog Number 78-74545 01978 H.P. Books
Printed in U. S. A.
how to rebuild your
SMALL-BLOCK FORD
by Tom Monroe
Registered Professional Engineer;
Member. Society of Automotive Engineers
INTRODUCTION . ' ......................................... 2
Chapter 1
DO YOU NEED TO REBUILD? ................................ 3
Chapter 2
ENGINE REMOVAL ........................................ 11
Chapter 3
PARTS IDENTIFICATION & INTERCHANGE 24
Chapter 4
TEARDOWN .............................................. 39
Chapter 5
INSPECTING & RECONDITIONING THE SHORTBLOCK .......... 51
Chapter 6
HEAD RECONDITIONING & ASSEMBLY ....................... 75
Chapter 7
ENGINE ASSEMBLY ....................................... 93
Chapter 8
DISTRIBUTOR REBUI LD 122
Chapter 9
ENGINE INSTALLATION 134
Chapter 10
TUNEUP ................................................ 155
INDEX .................................................. 158
ANOTHER FACT-FILLED AUTOMOTIVE BOOK FROM H.P. BOOKS
Notice: The information contained in this book is true and complete to the best of our
knowledge. All recommendations on parts and procedures are made without any guarantees
on the part of the author or HPBooks. Because the quality of parts, materials and methods
are beyond our control, author and publisher disclaim all liability incurred in connection
with the use of this information.
The cooperation of Ford Motor Company is gratefully acknowledged. However, this
publication is a wholly independent production of H.P. Books (Fisher Publishing Inc.).
Publisher and Editor: Bill Fisher; Editor-in-<:hief: Carl Shipman; Art Director: Don Burton; Book
Design; Tom Jakeway: Typography: Cindy Coatsworth. Connie Brown. Kris Spitler; Drawings and
photos: Tom Monroe; Cover photo: Don Winston.
Published by H.P. Books. P. O. Box 5367. Tucson. AZ 85703 602/888-2150
ISBN 0-912656-89-1
Library of Congress Card Catalog Number 78-74545 1978 H.P. Books
Printed in U.S.A.
289 powered 1964 Fairlane and 1966 Mustang
'
GT, both with their original engines. The Fair-
lane is used daily and has traveled more than
100,000 miles, and the Mustang has gone about
half the distance. These vehicles illustrate the
all-important point that the most important
ingredient for getting the most out of your
small-block Ford is proper service and main-
tenance.
I:
1962 221 CI D Fairlane V-8 rated at 145 HP has
road-draft crankcase-ventilation tube, generator
and oil-fill tube in timing-chain cover. Photo
courtesy Ford.
Introduction
The small-block Ford V8 is one of the
more substantial engine families in the
Ford line of V8 engines that began in
1932. The small-block's life began in
1962 as the Fairlane V8, because it was
designed for and installed in the Fairlane
car. Because the Fairlane was then a mid-
sized car, the engine was small in size and
weight.
The original displacement was 221
cubic inches-3.50-in. bore and 2.87-in.
stroke. A 0.30-in. bore increase later in
the same year produced 260 CID, the
"big" Fairlane engine. Since then, the
small-block family has expanded t o in-
clude 289, HP289, 302, Boss 302 and
35 1 W engines-W indicating Windsor,
Canada, where the engine is produced.
W distinguishes it from the 351C, or
Cleveland-same displacement, but dif-
ferent engine.
Good basic design is proved by its lon-
gevity and extensive applications. Since
1962 it has been installed in passenger
cars, trucks, boats, sports cars, race cars-
just about anything that requires power.
Beginning with a win in the '65 Indy 500,
it served as the basis for an all-out twin-cam
race engine. More importantly, the engine
is quickly becoming Ford's "big-block of
the future," considering the mileage re-
quirements imposed by the Federal gov-
ernment and the impending fuel shortage.
I believe the future of the small-block
Ford is assured.
Let's get on with what this book is
about-keeping your small-block around
longer by restoring it to peak mechanical
condition. Rebuilding an engine seems
like an ominous undertaking t o the person
who's never done it. And ominous it is,
particularly when you consider the num-
ber of components in an engine and the
decisions that have to be made during a
rebuild. However, the difficulty of re-
building an engine is reduced in direct
proportion to the information you have
about your engine. The more you have,
the easier the job. The less you have, the
more difficult it is-to the point of being
impossible.
While preparing this book I rebuilt
several engines and photographed every
step-determining if the engine needs re-
building, or what it needs, removing it
from the vehicle, tearing it down, inspect-
ing it, reconditioning the parts and reas-
sembling them into a complete engine,
and finally reinstalling the engine and
breaking it in. I tried t o leave nothing to
your imagination. This book has more
than typical specifications and informa-
tion on how to tear an engine down and
reassemble it. It includes information t o
make you the expert on your engine; tells
what you need t o do the job. I discuss
what you can and can't "get away with,"
t o keep you from being victimized by
well-meaning but inaccurate information.
The information I include in words and
pictures is a product of both my experi-
ence and knowledge and that of experts
who make their living rebuilding engines,
tuning them and supplying new and re-
conditioned parts for Fords.
A final word before getting started.
Work safely and use the right tool for the
specific job. Take nothing for granted-
check everything-and be alert. A bearing
cap installed backwards or in the wrong
location will spell the difference between
a successful engine rebuild and at least a
$200 disaster. With those points in mind,
let's get into your engine.
1962 221 CID Fairlane V8 rated at 145 HP has
roaddraft crankcaseventilation tube, generator
and oilfill tube in timingchain cover. Photo
courtesy Ford.
Introduction
The small block Ford V8 is one of the
more substantial engine families in the
Ford line of V8 engines that began in
1932 . The small-block's life began in
1962 as the Fairlane V8, because it was
designed for and installed in the Fairlane
car. Because the Fairlane was then a mid
sized car, the engine was small in size and
weight.
The original displacement was 221
cubic inches-3.50in. bore and 2.87-in.
stroke. A 0.30in. bore increase later in
the same year produced 260 CIO, the
"big" Fairlane engine. Since then, the
smallblock family has expanded to in
clude 289, HP289, 302, Boss 302 and
351W engines-W indicating Windsor,
Canada, where the engine is produced.
W distinguishes it from the 351C, or
Cleveland-same displacement, but dif-
ferent engine.
Good basic design is proved by its lon-
gevity and extensive applications . Since
1962 it has been installed in passenger
cars, trucks, boats, sports cars, race cars-
just about anything that requires power.
Beginning with a win in the '65 Indy 500,
it served as the basis for an all -out twin-cam
2
race engine. More importantly, the engine
is quickly becoming Ford's "bigblock of
the future," considering the mileage re-
quirements imposed by the Federal gov-
ernment and the impending fuel shortage.
I believe the future of the small-block
Ford is assured.
Let's get on with what this book is
about-keeping your smallblock around
longer by restoring it to peak mechanical
condition. Rebuilding an engine seems
like an ominous undertaking to the person
who's never done it. And ominous it is,
particularly when you consider the num-
ber of components in an engine and the
decisions that have to be made during a
rebuild. However, the difficulty of re-
building an engine is reduced in direct
proportion to the information you have
about your engine. The more you have,
the easier the job. The less you have, the
more difficult it is-to the point of being
impossible.
While preparing this book I rebuilt
several engines and photographed every
step-determining if the engine needs re-
building, or what it needs, removing it
from the vehicle, tearing it down, inspect-
289 powered 1964 Fairlane and 1966 Mustang
GT, both with their original engines. The Fair
lane is used daily and has traveled more than
100,000 miles, and the Mustang has gone about
half the distance. These vehicles illustrate the
allimportant point that the most important
ingredient for getting the most out of your
smallblock Ford is proper service and main
tenance.
ing it, reconditioning the parts and reas
sembling them into a complete engine,
and finally reinstalling the engine and
breaking it in. I tried to leave nothing to
your imagination. This book has more
than typical specifications and informa-
tion on how to tear an engine down and
reassemble it. It includes information to
make you the expert on your engine; tells
what you need to do the job. I discuss
what you can and can't "get away with,"
to keep you from being victimized by
wellmeaning but inaccurate information.
The information I include in words and
pictures is a product of both my experi-
ence and knowledge and that of experts
who make their living rebuilding engines,
tuning them and supplying new and re-
conditioned parts for Fords.
A final word before getting started.
Work safely and use the right tool for the
specific job. Take nothing for granted-
check evelything-and be alert. A bearing
cap installed backwards or in the wrong
location will spell the difference between
a successful engine rebuild and at least a
$200 disaster . With those points in mind,
let's get into your engine.
Do You Need
To Rebuild? 1
Before tearing down your engine, you
should determine to what extent it needs
rebuilding, if at all. Your engine must
have thousands of miles on it, be way
down on power, getting poor fuel mileage
or consuming excessive amounts of oil-
otherwise you shouldn't be considering a
rebuild.
Just because an engine has accumu-
lated some miles it doesn't necessarily
need rebuilding. A reasonably well main-
tained and operated small-block Ford can
exceed the 100,000-mile mark and still
provide excellent service. The way an
engine is used is significant. For example,
an engine in an off-road vehicle naturally
inhales more dust than one in the typical
family sedan. More internal wear per
mile of use is the result. An engine which
has been frequently over-rewed will
also wear excessively and may have in-
ternal damage such as broken piston
rings or bent valves.
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
The amount of oil an engine uses
between changes is the "yardstick" most
people use to judge the condition of their
engines-and rightly so. Oil consumption
is largely determined by clearances be-
tween moving parts. As the engine wears,
these clearances increase, resulting in
increased oil consumption and oil-
pressure loss.
Just what is excessive oil consump-
tion? I think an engine using oil at the
rate of one quart in less than 1,000 miles
needs attention. If a quart lasts only
500 miles or less, the condition is serious.
Other than the obvious gasket or seal
leak which shows up as large oil spots on
your driveway or garage floor, the two
major causes of oil consumption are worn
or broken piston rings and worn valve
guides. These let oil escape past the
pistons or intake-valve stems into the
combustion chamber, or past worn
exhaust-valve guides into the exhaust
ports. This partially burned oil is forced
out the exhaust system into the atmos-
phere creating an ominous puff of blue
smoke from the exhaust when starting or
when applying power after descending a
hill.
Piston Rings-Three rings per piston are
used. The top two compression rings
seal compression and combustion pres-
sures. The second compression ring also
keeps oil from getting to the combus-
tion chamber. Oil control is the job of the
bottom ring-the oil ring. It doesn't com-
pletely seal the cylinder from the crank-
case, otherwise the compression rings and
piston wouldn't receive any lubrication
and would seize or wear away the cylin-
der bore.
If oil can get past the rings into the
combustion chamber, combustion and
compression pressure can blow past the
rings into the crankcase, called blowby.
Blowby in pre-1966 engines (pre-1964 in
California) pushes crankcase oil and other
vapors into the atmosphere through the
crankcase vent. 1966 and later engines
recycle blowby into the combustion
chambers through the PCV (positive
crankcase ventilation) system. Therefore,
worn or broken rings allow oil loss past
the piston rings into the combustion
chambers, out the crankcase vent or into
the combustion chamber via the PCV
system.
Valve Guides-A worn valve guide allows
oil to get past the valve stem and into the
combustion chamber or exhaust port,
depending on whether i t is an intake or
exhaust valve. Because some oil must be
used for lubrication, there should always
be some controlled oil loss through the
valve guides.
LOSS IN PERFORMANCE?
When I refer to performance, I mean
fuel economy as well as power. As an
rebuild.
provide excellent service. The wayan
has been frequently over-revved will
rings or bent valves .
Do You Need 1
To Rebuild?
1965260 CID Ford was 39 CID larger due to a new cylinder-
block casting with 0.30-in. larger bore than the 221 .
pressure loss.
rate of one quart in less than 1 ,000 miles
hill.
used . The top two compression rings
Sures. The second compression ring also
pis ton wouldn't receive any lu brica tion
der bore.
chambers, ou t the crankcase vent or in to
system.
depending on whether it is an intake or
used for lubrication , there should always
valve guides.
When I refer to performance, I mean
3
engine wears, its performance suffers.
A change in fuel economy or oil con-
sumption is easier t o monitor than the
power output of your engine because you
can measure it. Judging power loss
can be done with a chassis dynamometer,
but you can't go by your own impression
because the wearing-out process and the
accompanying power loss is too gradual.
If your engine's performance is suffer-
ing, but oil consumption is normal, give
your car a thorough tuneup. Choose a
reputable tuneup shop with a chassis
dynamometer. This measures engine
power at the drive wheels while critical
engine functions are being checked or
adiusted. You can comuare horseuower
reidings before and aft ei t he tuneul;. Just As cylinder-wall and piston ring wear progress, Monitoring engine power output at the rear
make sure that the tuneup shop you take
blowby downward and oil loss up past the pis- wheels on a chassis dynamometer is a good way
ton increase, resulting in oil consumption and of determining whether your engine is "tired"
your car can give you horsepower
power loss. The additional groove in the piston and needs rebuilding.
readings. Many don't or can't. If the shown is a "heat dam" used only in the first
tuneup cures the problem, relax and read few months of 221 production. Photo courtesy
the rest of the book for entertainment to
see all the fun you missed. If it doesn't,
you'll have t o read further.
CAUSES OF POOR PERFORMANCE
chamber. Therefore, the cylinder with the pression ratio. As a result, detonation
Let's review some possible causes of bad valve will be down on compression problems may develop, usually called
performance loss. The first suspect is
and power. This occurs more often in pinging. This is caused by the fuel charge
piston-ring and cylinder-bore wear. These later engines whch operate at higher exploding from compression rather than
cause increased oil consumption. If blow- temperatures to reduce emissions. The burning smoothly. Higher loads are
by is excessive, there will be excessive loss valves run at higher temperatures and are imposed on an engine by detonation and
of compression and combustion pressure, more susceptible to burning. this causes serious damage ranging from
TheAengine produces less power and
gets worse fuel economy. If your engine
is "hurting" in both the oil-consumption
and performance departments, chances
are the problem is with the rings and
cylinder bores. If this is not the case, look
further.
If your engine is down on gas mileage
and power, but not bad on oil consump-
tion, chances are the problem is in the
cylinders or valve train. Th s assumes the
carburetion and ignition systems are in
good order. Problems can include a blown
head gasket, burned exhaust valves, worn
camshaft lobes and lifters, and carbon
buildup.
Blown Head Gasket-A blown head gas-
ket causes compression and combustion
pressure to drop much in the same man-
ner as bad rings and cylinder bores, only
worse. Pressure lost past a gasket goes
into the cooling system or an adjacent
cylinder. If it leaks into the cooling sys-
tem, only one cylinder will be affected
making the loss in power, and even gas
mileage, difficult to detect.
A gasket gone between cylinder bores,
affects two cylinders and the performance
loss is easily detectable. One thing is
sure, if cylinder pressure is getting into
your cooling system, your engine will
overheat. The cooling system will be
overpressurized, forcing coolant out of
the radiator.
Burned Exhaust Valves-A burned ex-
haust valve can't seal its combustion
Worn Camshaft Lobes and Lifters-Worn
camshaft lobes and lifters almost always
occur together. This problem does not
affect the engine's oil consumption, but
really reduces its performance. The more
worn cam lobes, the more performance is
affected.
When a cam lobe and lifter wears, the
valve they operate doesn't open enough.
If it is an intake valve, a smaller fuel
charge enters the combustion chamber,
causing reduced performance. A similar
situation exists with the exhaust valve,
but by a roundabout way. If its lift is
reduced, all the exhaust cannot leave the
combustion chamber, consequently there
is less room for a new fuel charge when
it's time for the intake valve to open. The
result is the same-reduced performance.
Carbon Deposits-Carbon deposits are not
a direct result of how many miles are on
an engine or its age, but are caused by
how it is used. A vehicle used mainly for
open highway use won't experience car-
bon buildup, assuming the carburetion is
near right. However, one that is used t o
putter around town at 30 MPH or so
may develop the problem. Carbon de-
posits don't require that an engine be
rebuilt to remedy the problem. But,
because its symptoms can fool you, I'll
discuss how carbon can affect an engine
and how you can remedy the problem.
Carbon buildup takes up room in the
combustion chamber, raising the com-
deformed main-bearing caps tb broken
piston rings, and even broken pistons.
Preignition may also occur when the
carbon gets hot and acts like a two-cycle
model-airplane-engine glow plug, igniting
the fuel charge prematurely. This poten-
tially serious problem can melt pistons,
and break piston rings. Another thing
carbon deposits cause is dieseling, or con-
tinuing to run after the ignition'is shut
off-sometimes the engine turns in the
wrong direction.
Detonation, preignition and dieseling
don't necessarily hurt an engine's per-
formance, but the potential damage that
can be done by detonation and preig-
nition should concern you.
Carbon deposits hurt performance in
two ways. Buildup around the valves
reduces the flow of gases to and from the
combustion chamber, thereby reducing
power. And, pieces of carbon can break
off and go out the exhaust harmlessly,
or end up on the piston top between the
exhaust valve and exhaust-valve seat, or
between the spark-plug electrodes. Car-
bon on top of the piston can reduce the
clearance between the piston and the
head. The engine can develop a knock,
giving the impression a rod bearing has
gone bad when it hasn't. I don't know
anything this hurts except your peace of
mind.
Carbon between the exhaust valve and
seat prevents the valve from closing all
the way, meaning that cylinder won't
engine wears, its performance suffers.
A change in fuel economy or oil con-
sumption is easier to monitor than the
power output of your engine because you
can measure it. Judging power loss
can be done with a chassis dynamometer,
but you can't go by your own impression
because the wearing-out process and the
accompanying power loss is too gradual.
If your engine's performance is suffer-
ing, but oil consumption is normal, give
your car a thorough tuneup . Choose a
reputable tuneup shop with a chassis
dynamometer. This measures engine
power at the drive wheels while critical
engine functions are being checked or
adjusted. You can compare horsepower
readings before and after the tuneup . Just
make sure that the tune up shop you take
your car to can give you horsepower
readings. Many don't or can't. If the
tune up cures the problem, relax and read
the rest of the book for entertainment to
see all the fun you missed . If it doesn't,
you'll have to read further.
CAUSES OF POOR PERFORMANCE
Let's review some possible causes of
performance loss. The first suspect is
piston-ring and cylinder-bore wear. These
cause increased oil consumption. If blow-
by is excessive, there will be excessive loss
of compression and combustion pressure.
The engine produces less power and
gets worse fuel economy . If your engine
is "hurting" in both the oil-consumption
and performance departments, chances
are the problem is with the rings and
cylinder bores. If this is not the case, look
further.
If your engine is down on gas mileage
and power, but not bad on oil consump-
tion, chances are the problem is in the
cylinders or valve train. This assumes the
carburetion and ignition systems are in
good order. Problems can include a blown
head gasket, burned exhaust valves, worn
camshaft lobes and lifters, and carbon
buildup.
Blown Head Gasket-A blown head gas-
ket causes compression and combustion
pressure to drop much in the same man-
ner as bad rings and cylinder bores, only
worse. Pressure lost past a gasket goes
into the cooling system or an adjacent
cylinder. If it leaks into the cooling sys-
tem, only one cylinder will be affected
making the loss in power, and even gas
mileage, difficult to detect.
A gasket gone between cylinder bores,
affects two cylinders and the performance
loss is easily detectable . One thing is
sure, if cylinder pressure is getting into
your cooling system, your engine will
overheat. The cooling system will be
overpressurized, forcing coolant out of
the radiator.
Burned Exhaust VaIves-A burned ex-
haust valve can't seal its combustion
4
As cylinderwall and piston ring wear progress,
blowby downward and oil loss up past the pis-
ton increase, resulting in oil consumption and
power loss. The additional groove in the piston
shown is a "heat dam" used only in the fiFst
few months of 221 production. Photo courtesy
Ford.
cham ber. Therefore, the cylinder wi th the
bad valve will be down on compression
and power. This occurs more often in
later engines which operate at higher
temperatures to reduce emissions. The
valves run at higher temperatures and are
more susceptible to burning.
Worn Camshaft Lobes and Lifters-Worn
camshaft lobes and lifters almost always
occur together. This problem does not
affect the engine's oil consumption, but
really reduces its performance. The more
worn cam lobes, the more performance is
affected .
When a cam lobe and lifter wears , the
valve they operate doesn't open enough.
If it is an intake valve, a smaller fuel
charge enters the combustion chamber,
causing reduced performance. A similar
situation exists with the exhaust valve,
but by a roundabout way. If its lift is
reduced, all the exhaust cannot leave the
combustion chamber, consequently there
is less room for a new fuel charge when
it's time for the intake valve to open. The
result is the same-reduced performance.
Carbon Deposits-Carbon deposits are not
a direct result of how many miles are on
an engine or its age, but are caused by
how it is used . A vehicle used mainly for
open highway use won't experience car-
bon buildup, assuming the carburetion is
near right. However, one that is used to
putter around town at 30 MPH or so
may develop the problem. Carbon de-
posits don't require that an engine be
rebuilt to remedy the problem. But,
because its symptoms can fool you, I'll
discuss how carbon can affect an engine
and how you can remedy the problem.
Carbon buildup takes up room in the
combustion chamber, raising the com-
Monitoring engine power output at the rear
wheels on a chassis dynamometer is a good way
of determining whether your engine is "tired"
and needs rebuilding.
pression ratio. As a result, detonation
problems may develop, usually called
pinging. This is caused by the fuel charge
exploding from compression rather than
burning smoothly. Higher loads are
imposed on an engine by detonation and
this causes serious damage ranging from
deformed main-bearing caps to broken
piston rings, and even broken pistons.
Preignition may also occur when the
carbon gets hot and acts like a two-cycle
model-airplane-engine glow plug, igniting
the fuel charge prematurely. This poten-
tially serious problem can melt pistons,
and break piston rings. Another thing
carbon deposits cause is dieseling, or con-
tinuing to run after the ignition ' is shut
off-sometimes the engine turns in the
wrong direction.
Detonation , preignition and dieseling
don't necessarily hurt an engine's per-
formance, but the potential damage that
can be done by detonation and preig-
nition should concern you .
Carbon deposits hurt performance in
two ways. Buildup around the valves
reduces the flow of gases to and from the
combustion chamber, thereby reducing
power. And, pieces of carbon can break
off and go out the exhaust harmlessly,
or end up on the piston top between the
exhaust valve and exhaust-valve seat, or
between the spark-plug electrodes. Car-
bon on top of the piston can reduce the
clearance between the piston and the
head. The engine can develop a knock,
giving the impression a rod bearing has
gone bad when it hasn't. I don't know
anything this hurts except your peace of
mind.
Carbon between the exhaust valve and
seat prevents the valve from closing all
the way, meaning that cylinder won't
Do You Need
To Rebuild? 1
should determine t o what extent it needs
rebuild.
exceed the 100.000-mile mark and still
provide excellent service. The way an
rings or bent valves.
pressure loss.
hill.
used. The top two compression rings
sures. The second compression ring also
keeps oil from getting t o the combus-
piston wouldn't receive any lubrication
der bore.
system.
used for lubrication, there should always
valve guides.
When I refer t o performance, I mean
~ Do You Need
To Rebuild?
1
I
rebuild.
Just because an engine has accumu
provide excellent service. The wayan
family sedan. More in ternal wear per
rings or bent valves .
between changes is the " yardstick" most
1965260 CID Ford was 39 CID larger due to a new cylinder-
block casting with 0.30-in. larger bore than the 221.
pressure loss.
needs attention . If a quart lasts only
your driveway or garage floor , the two
ports . This partially burned oil is forced
hill.
used . The top two compression rings
sures . The second compression ring also
piston wouldn ' t receive any lubrication
der bore .
chambers through the pev (positive
the combustion chamber via the pev
system.
used for lubrication , there should always
valve guides .
When I refer to performance , I mean
3
Engine problems accompanied by internal
noises can be located with an automotive
stethescope. You must be able to distinguish
between engine noises which are normal and
those which are not.
be producing much power. On the power
stroke the hot fuel charge will escape
between the valve and seat, overheating
the valve with a good possibility of burn-
ing it.
A chunk of carbon between the spark-
plug electrodes shorts the plug so it can't
ignite the fuel charge. A misfiring cylin-
der results.
What usually causes carbon to break
off and create the troubles I've just dis-
cussed is someone taking advantage of an
additive sale, then going home and
dumping the "instant overhaul" solution
down the carburetor. The stuff really
works, loosening the carbon which then
causes these problems. Don't try the
"cure-all" approach to rid your engine of
carbon. Use the methods I discuss in the
block and cylinder-head reconditioning
chapters. Also, carbon is an effect rather
than a cause. It results from an excessive-
ly rich fuel mixture, oil getting into the
combustion chamber past the pistons or
valve stems or very slow driving or idling
for extended periods. If the carbon build-
up causes are cured, the deposits gradual-
ly burn away.
DIAGNOSIS
I've discussed internal problems you
may encounter with your engine and how
each may affect its operation. Now let's
look at how t o diagnose these problems
without tearing down your engine. On
the other hand, you may not have any
specific problems, but you do want to
determine if it's time t o rebuild.
Internal Noises-Perhaps your engine has
noises of impending disaster coming from
its innards. They may or may not be
accompanied by an increase in fuel or
oil consumption or a reduction in power.
Generally, if the noise is at engine speed-
once for every revolution of the crank-
the problem is in the bottom end-caused
by a broken piston ring, worn connecting-
rod bearing or a worn pin bore in a piston.
A noise at half engine speed, or cam-
shaft speed, is probably a valve-train
problem, even though one bottom-end
problem does occur at this speed. Piston
slap occurs only on the power stroke,
consequently it is also at half speed. If
the noise is coming from the valve train it
could be due t o excessive lash or clear-
ance in the valve train due t o a collapsed
hydraulic lifter, too much valve clearance
or a bent pushrod. To help in determining
the speed of the noise, hook up your tim-
ing light and watch the light while listening
t o your engine. If the light flashes in time
with the noise it's at half engine speed.
To assist in listening to what's going
on inside your engine use a long screw-
driver and press its point against the
block close to the area where you suspect
the noise is coming from and the handle
against your skull below your ear. This
will amplify engine noises. Just make
sure you place the screwdriver against a
solid part of the engine to get the best
noise transmittal. Don't put the end of
the screwdriver against the valve cover to
listen t o valve-train noises, put it against
a valve-cover bolt. The cork gasket be-
tween the cover and the head and the
large air space under the valve cover
damp out much of the noise.
What should the different noises sound
like? Let's start with the engine's bottom
end. A broken piston ring makes a chat-
tering or rattling noise which is more
prevalent during acceleration. A dull,
or hollow sound is usually caused by pis-
ton slap or the piston wobbling and
slapping against the side of its bore due
to excess clearance between the piston
and the bore. A collapsed piston skirt
causes a similar, but louder noise. Slap
caused by excess clearance will be loudest
when the engine is cold. It decreases as
the engine warms up and the piston
grows t o reduce piston-to-bore clearance.
You can check for piston slap by retard-
ing the spark. Loosen your distributor's
hold-down bolt and rotate it counter-
clockwise about five degrees. Retarding
the spark should reduce noise due to
piston slap. Use your timing light to
make sure you get the distributor back
in time afterwards.
A light knocking or pounding noise
that's not related t o detonation or pre-
ignition is probably excess connecting-
rod-bearing-to-journal clearance. Simply
put, the bearing is worn out. Finally,
a light tapping noise can indicate excess
pin-bore clearance in a piston.
To confirm and pinpoint a lower-end
noise-related problem, disconnect the
spark plug leads one at a time, then run
your engine and listen for the noise t o
change or go away. What happens is the
power-stroke is eliminated from the
cylinder with the disconnected spark-
plug lead, thus unloading its connecting
rod and piston. So, if the noise is piston
or rod-related it will be greatly reduced
or eliminated when you have the right
plug wire disconnected. If your car is
equipped with a solid-state ignition
always ground the lead you disconnect.
Otherwise you risk damaging your ex-
pensive ignition system.
A sharp clacking or rapping noise
indicates your engine probably has a
collapsed hydraulic lifter. If the noise
is a light clicking, it is probably excess
clearance in one of the valve mechanisms.
This assumes your engine is not equipped
with solid lifters which click normally-
unless the clicking is excessive. Then the
problem will also be excess clearance or
lash. If this is the problem, a simple valve
adjustment may correct the problem. To
check for proper lash, remove the valve
cover from the noisy side of the engine
and insert a feeler gauge between each
rocker arm and its valve stem one at a
time. When you get to the noisy one, the
gauge should take up the excess clearance
and quiet the noise. In this instance a
simple adjustment may correct the prob-
lem if your rocker arms are adjustable. If
there is still a lot more clearance when
the feeler gauge is between the rocker and
the valve stem, suspect that lifter is mal-
functioning or the pushrod is bent, partic-
ularly if the engine was over-rewed.
Spark Plugs Tell a Story-Prior t o testing,
an easy way t o diagnose your engine is t o
"look" into the combustion chambers by
removing the spark plugs and inspecting
them. Each plug has a story to tell about
the cylinder it came out of, so remember
to keep them in order.
The main thing to look for is a wet-
black deposit on the inside of the threaded
portion of the plug and on the plug in-
sulator. This is caused by oil getting past
worn rings or intake-valve guides. Oil
loss through exhaust-valve guides won't
enter the combustion chamber, and won't
show on the plugs.
Black, dry and fluffy deposits are
carbon caused by an over-rich fuel mix-
ture, excessive idling or driving at sus-
tained slow speeds without much load on
the engine. All the plugs should appear
about the same in this case. The fuel
mixture will have t o be corrected by
tuning, however carbon buildup caused
by the way a vehicle is operated can only
be partially corrected by installing hotter
plugs or by changing driving habits.
Cranking Vacuum Test-An internal-
Engine problems accompanied by internal
noises can be located with an automotive
stethescope. You must be able to distinguish
between engine noises which are normal and
those which are not.
be producing much power. On the power
stroke the hot fuel charge will escape
between the valve and seat, overheating
the valve with a good possibility of burn-
ing it.
A chunk of carbon between the spark-
plug electrodes shorts the plug so it can't
ignite the fuel charge. A misfiring cylin-
der resul ts .
What usually causes carbon to break
off and create the troubles I've just dis-
cussed is someone taking advantage of an
additive sale, then going home and
dumping the "instant overhaul" solution
down the carburetor. The stuff really
works, loosening the carbon which then
causes these problems. Don't try the
"cure-all" approach to rid your engine of
carbon. Use the methods I discuss in the
block and cylinder-head reconditioning
chapters. Also, carbon is an effect rather
than a cause. It resul ts from an excessive-
ly rich fuel mixture, oil getting into the
combustion chamber past the pistons or
valve stems or very slow driving or idling
for extended periods. If the carbon build-
up causes are cured, the deposits gradual-
ly burn away .
DIAGNOSIS
I've discussed in ternal problems you
may encounter with your engine and how
each may affect its operation. Now let's
look at how to diagnose these problems
without tearing down your engine . On
the other hand, you may not have any
specific problems, but you do want to
determine if it's time to rebuild.
Internal Noises-Perhaps your engine has
noises of impending disaster coming from
its innards. They mayor may not be
accompanied by an increase in fuel or
oil consumption or a reduction in power.
Generally, if the noise is at engine speed-
once for every revolution of the crank-
the problem is in the bottom end-caused
by a broken piston ring, worn connecting-
rod bearing or a worn pin bore in a piston.
A noise at half engine speed, or cam-
shaft speed, is probably a valve-train
problem, even though one bottom-end
problem does occur at this speed . Piston
slap occurs only on the power stroke,
consequently it is also at half speed. If
the noise is coming from the valve train it
could be due to excessive lash or clear-
ance in the valve train due to a collapsed
hydraulic lifter, too much valve clearance
or a bent pushrod. To help in determining
the speed of the noise, hook up your tim-
ing light and watch the light while listening
to your engine. If the light flashes in time
with the noise it's at half engine speed.
To assist in listening to what's going
on inside your engine use a long screw-
driver and press its point against the
block close to the area where you suspect
the noise is coming from and the handle
against your skull below your ear. This
will amplify engine noises. Just make
sure you place the screwdriver against a
solid part of the engine to get the best
noise transmittal. Don't put the end of
the screwdriver against the valve cover to
listen to valve-train noises, put it against
a valve-cover bolt. The cork gasket be-
tween the cover and the head and the
large air space under the valve cover
damp out much of the noise.
What should the different noises sound
like? Let's start with the engine's bottom
end. A broken piston ring makes a chat-
tering or rattling noise which is more
prevalent during acceleration. A dull,
or hollow sound is usually caused by pis-
ton slap or the piston wobbling and
slapping against the side of its bore due
to excess clearance between the piston
and the bore. A collapsed piston skirt
causes a similar, but louder noise. Slap
caused by excess clearance will be loudest
when the engine is cold. It decreases as
the engine warms up and the piston
grows to reduce piston-to-bore clearance.
You can check for piston slap by retard-
ing the spark. Loosen your distributor's
hold-down bolt and rotate it counter-
clockwise about five degrees. Retarding
the spark should reduce noise due to
piston slap. Use your timing light to
make sure you get the distributor back
in time afterwards.
A light knocking or pounding noise
that's not related to detonation or pre-
ignition is probably excess connecting-
rod-bearing-to-journal clearance. Simply
put, the bearing is worn out. Finally,
a light tapping noise can indicate excess
pin-bore clearance in a piston.
To confirm and pinpoint a lower-end
noise-related problem, disconnect the
spark plug leads one at a time, then run
your engine and listen for the noise to
change or go away. What happens is the
power-stroke is eliminated from the
cylinder with the disconnected spark-
plug lead, thus unloading its connecting
rod and piston. So, if the noise is piston
or rod-related it will be greatly reduced
or eliminated when you have the right
plug wire disconnected. If your car is
equipped with a solid-state ignition
always ground the lead you disconnect.
Otherwise you risk damaging your ex-
pensive ignition system.
A sharp clacking or rapping noise
indicates your engine probably has a
collapsed hydraulic lifter. If the noise
is a light clicking, it is probably excess
clearance in one of the valve mechanisms.
This assumes your engine is not equipped
with solid lifters which click normally-
unless the clicking is excessive. Then the
problem will also be excess clearance or
lash. If this is the problem, a simple valve
adjustment may correct the problem. To
check for proper lash, remove the valve
cover from the noisy side of the engine
and insert a feeler gauge between each
rocker arm and its valve stem one at a
time. When you get to the noisy one, the
gauge should take up the excess clearance
and quiet the noise . In this instance a
simple adjustment may correct the prob-
lem if your rocker arms are adjustable. If
there is still a lot more clearance when
the feeler gauge is between the rocker and
the valve stem, suspect that lifter is mal-
functioning or the pushrod is bent , partic-
ularly if the engine was over-revved.
Spark Plugs Tell a Story-Prior to testing,
an easy way to diagnose your engine is to
"look" into the combustion chambers by
removing the spark plugs and inspecting
them. Each plug has a story to tell about
the cylinder it came out of, so remember
The main thing to look for is a wet-
black deposit on the inside of the threaded
portion of the plug and on the plug in-
sulator. This is caused by oil getting past
worn rings or intake-valve guides. Oil
loss through exhaust-valve guides won't
enter the combustion chamber, and won't
show on the plugs.
Black, dry and fluffy deposits are
carbon caused by an over-rich fuel mix-
ture, excessive idling or driving at sus-
tained slow speeds without much load on
the engine. All the plugs should appear
about the same in this case . The fuel
mixture will have to be corrected by
tuning, however carbon buildup caused
by the way a vehicle is operated can only
be partially corrected by installing hotter
plugs or by changing driving habits.
Cranking Vacuum Test-An internal-
5
1 c.
"Reading" your spark plugs is a good way. of judging your engine's condition. Worn-out spark plugs
as in A are easily recognizable by eroded electrodes and pitted insulator. Replace them and your
engine's performance will improve instantly. Oil-coated and fouled plug B indicates internal engine
wear: piston rings, cylinder bore and valve guides. Carboned plug C coated with dry, black and fluffy
deposits is usually caused by carburetion problems or driving habits. Normal spark plug D has a
brown t o greyish-tan appearance with some electrode wear indicated by slightly radiused electrode
edges. When inspecting your plugs keep track of the cylinder each belongs to. Photos courtesy
Champion Spark Plug Company.
SOLID-STATE IGNfTlON SYSTEMS .
Many solid-state (electronic) ignition
systems generate very high secondary
voltage peaks when a spark-plug lead is
unloaded by disconnecting it from its
spark plug or by disconnecting the coil-to-
distributor lead while the engine is being
cranked or is running. The resulting sec-
ondary voltage surge (up t o 60,000 volts)
can damage a coil internallv or ~ k r c e 1
plug-wire insulation or a distributor cap
as the surge seeks a ground. So if you
remove any secondary lead with the igni-
tion on and the engine turning, ground
the lead t o the engine with a jumper wire.
combustion engine is a specialized air
pump, so how it sucks air, or pulls a
vacuum is an indicator of its mechanical
soundness, or how your engine's cylin-
ders are sealing relative to one another.
You'll need a vacuum gauge and a remote
starter or a friend to operate the starter
switch while you watch the vacuum gauge.
The remote starter lets you control the
starter from under the hood.
When doing this test, connect the
vacuum gauge to the intake manifold
after you've warmed up your engine.
Disable the ignition system so the engine
can't be started. Disconnect the high-
tension, or distributor-to-coil lead so the
engine won't start when it is being
cranked. With electronic systems, dis-
connect the distributor-to-amplifier lead.
With your eye on the vacuum gauge,
crank the engine. If the gauge indicates a
steady vacuum reading after it has sta-
bilized, all eight cylinders are sealing the
same in relation t o one another. If the
needle fluctuates, indicating a pulsating
vacuum, one or more of the cylinders has
a problem, assuming your starter is crank-
ing steady. It could be valve timing due
to incorrect adjustment, a worn camshaft
lobe or collapsed valve lifter, a leaking
valve, worn cylinder bore or piston rings
or a leaky head gasket. If this indicates
a bad cylinder/s, the next two tests pin-
point which one it is.
Power-Balance Test-A power-balance test
determines if all of your engine's cylin-
ders are contributing the same amount of
power. The method is to fast-idle your
engine, then disconnect the spark plugs
one-by-one and monitor the RPM drop.
RPM change indicates how much each
cylinder is contributing to overall engine
power. The less it drops, the less it con-
tributes. You'll need a tachometer-
one that is very accurate such as found
on a good dwell tachometer. Disconnect
the spark plug leads at the distributor and
reinstall them loosely. When removing the
leads, don't pull on the wire, pull on the
boot. With your engine warmed up and
the tach connected, start your engine and
set its idle speed to about 1,000 RPM.
Remove the cylinder 1 spark-plug lead
and ground it to the engine. Record engine-
RPM drop after it stabilizes at the lower
Ford has installed solid-state (breakerless)
ignitions since 1974.
Vacuum gauge being used t o check the pump-
ing ability of this engine. The needle fluctuated
indicating a weak cylinder.
A B
c D
"Reading" your spark plugs is a good way. of iudging your engine's condition. Worn-out spark plugs
as in A are easily recognizable by eroded electrodes and pitted insulator. Replace them and your
engine's performance will improve instantly. Oil-coated and fouled plug B indicates internal engine
wear: piston rings, cylinder bore and valve guides. Carboned plug C coated with dry, black and fluffy
deposits is usually caused by carburetion problems or driving habits. Normal spark plug D has a
brown to greyish-tan appearance with some electrode wear indicated by slightly radiused electrode
edges. When inspecting your plugs keep track of the cylinder each belongs to. Photos courtesy
Champion Spark Plug Company.
SOLID-STATE IGNITION SYSTEMS
Many s.olid-state (electronic) ignitidii
systems generate very high secondary
voltage peaks when a spark-plug lead is
unloaded by disconnecting it from its
spark plug or by disconnecting the coil-to-
distributor lead while the engine is being
cranked oris. runnihg. The resulting 5e.C-
ondary voltage surge (up to 60,000 volts)
can damage a coil internally or pierce
plug-wir.e insulation or a distributor cap
as the surge seeks a ground. So if you
remove any secondary le.ad with the igni-
tion on and the engine turning, ground
the lead to the engine with a jumper wire.
Ford has installed solid-state (breakerless)
ignitions ~ i n c e 1974.
6
Vacuum gauge being used to check the pump-
ing ability of this engine. The needle fluctuated
indicating a weak cylinder.
combustion engine is a specialized air
pump, so how it sucks air, or pulls a
vacuum is an indicator of its mechanical
soundness, or how your engine's cylin-
ders are sealing relative to one another.
You'll need a vacuum gauge and a remote
starter or a friend to operate the starter
switch while you watch the vacuum gauge.
The remote starter lets you control the
starter from under the hood.
When doing this test, connect the
vacuum gauge to the intake manifold
after you've warmed up your engine.
Disable the ignition system so the engine
can't be started. Disconnect the high-
tension, or distributor-to-coil lead so the
engine won't start when it is being
cranked. With electronic systems, dis-
connect the distributor-to-amplifier lead.
With your eye on the vacuum gauge,
crank the engine. If the gauge indicates a
steady vacuum reading after it has sta-
bilized, all eight cylinders are sealing the
same in relation to one another. If the
needle fluctuates, indicating a pulsating
vacuum, one or more of the cylinders has
a problem, assuming your starter is crank-
ing steady. It could be valve timing due
to incorrect adjustment, a worn camshaft
lobe or collapsed valve lifter , a leaking
valve, worn cylinder bore or piston rings
or a leaky head gasket. If this indicates
a bad cylinder/s, the next two tests pin-
point which one it is.
Power-Balance Test-A power-balance test
determines if all of your engine's cylin-
ders are contributing the same amount of
power. The method is to fast-idle your
engine, then disconnect the spark plugs
one-by-one and monitor the RPM drop.
RPM change indicates how much each
cylinder is contributing to overall engine
power. The less it drops , the less it con-
tributes. You'll need a tachometer-
one that is very accurate such as found
on a good dwell tachometer. Disconnect
the spark plug leads at the distributor and
reinstall them loosely. When removing the
leads , don't pull on the wire, pull on the
boot. With your engine warmed up and
the tach connected, start your engine and
set its idle speed to about 1,000 RPM.
Remove the cylinder 1 spark-plug lead
and ground it to the engine . Record engine-
RPM drop after it stabilizes at the lower
Two types of compression gauges were used to check the compression of this engine's cylinders. Number8 cylinder could only muster 25 psi, whereas the
others averaged 130 psi. The problem was a burnt valve. I f a cylinder is down on compression, squirt some oil on the top-rear of the piston. Recheck com-
pression a few minutes later. I f compression improves, the problem is in the bore. Otherwise it's probably the valves.
level. Reconnect the lead and let the RPM
return to normal, then disconnect the
next lead in the firing order. When you're
finished checking all of the. cylinders,
compare the readings. If all are within
20 RPM, no one cylinder is much worse
than the others. If the drop is different
by 40 RPM or more in some cylinders,
then there's a problem. Note the ones
with the least drop, and concentrate on
them during a compression test.
Compression Testing-Comparative com-
pression testing of an engine's cylinders
gives you an idea of the condition of
piston rings and cylinder bores. You'll
need a compression tester, a note pad and
a friend-or a remote starter switch.
Run your engine until it is up to oper-
ating temperature. Shut the engine off,
disconnect the ignition wires and remove
all the spark plugs, being careful not to
get burned-everything is HOT. Now for
the test. Prop the throttle plate open and
make sure the choke plate is also open.
Insert a tester in cylinder 1 spark plug
hole. A screw-in type tester makes this
whole procedure a lot easier. If yours has
a rubber cone on the end, insert it into
the spark plug hole while holding it in
firmly and give it a half turn. This helps
make sure it seals. Turn the engine over
the same amount of strokes for each
cylinder tested-about five times will
do-and observe the maximum gauge
pressure. Write down the results and the
cylinder number. Go to cylinder 2,
repeating the procedure until you've
tested all cylinders in order-just to keep
things organized. Now that you have the
numbers, what do they mean?
You may see pressures anywhere from
80 t o 250 psi, depending on the engine
and its problems. The best approach is
t o compare the cylinder pressures with
each other. All cylinders of an engine
don't go bad at once, so the bad oneis
will show up like a "sore thumb." Another
t hng t o keep in mind is, cylinder pres-
sures of a high-compression engine, such
as the HF'289 and Boss 302 engines,
may read lower than the lowcompression
version of the same engine at cranking
speeds. This is due to cam timing and not
because of their mechanical compression
ratios. This doesn't apply at higher RPM.
Therefore, if you have a high-perfor-
mance engine, don't be shocked if your
neighbor boasts of higher cylinder pres-
sures from his tamer regular-gas-burning
engine.
What should the "spread" be between
cylinder pressures? A good rule is the
lowest pressure should not be less than
75 percent of the highest. Otherwise,
something is not quite right in your
engine. For example, if the highest read-
ing is 150 psi and the lowest is 120 psi,
then the engine is all right because 150 X
0.75 = 1 12-the lowest allowable pressure.
Now what do you do if all your read-
ings are not within the 75-percent range?
Something is wrong, but what? To test
the piston rings, squirt about a teaspoon
of heavy oil in the bad cylinderls from
your oil can-40 weight will do. The best
way of determining if you are putting in
the right amount of oil is to see how
many squirts it takes t o fill a teaspoon.
Squirt the same amount of oil in the spark
plug hole while directing it toward the
far side of the cylinder. It will also help
if you have the piston part way down the
cylinder to ensure getting the oil all the
way around the piston. Don't get any
oil on the valves. The oil will take a little
time t o run down around the rings, so
wait a couple of minutes before recheck-
ing pressures. Now, if this causes the
questionable cylinders to increase in
pressure, the rings and bore are at fault
and a rebuild is in order. If the pressure
doesn't change an appreciable amount,
look further.
Leak-Down Testing-Leak-down testing is
similar t o compression testing just covered,
but rather than the engine doing the
compressing, a leak-down tester does it.
It applies a test pressure via a special fit-
ting through the spark plug hole to the
cylinder being tested and monitors the
pressure the cylinder can maintain in
relation to the test pressure. This is a
better way t o test an engine's condition.
It eliminates factors which affect the
results of a conventional compression
test, but do not reflect the sealing quali-
ties of a cylinder: valve timing, camshaft
wear or engine cranking speed. The prob-
lem with a leak-down tester is it costs
about three times as much as the con-
ventional compression tester. Conse-
quently, it's not practical for you to pur-
chase such an expensive piece of equip-
ment for a "one-shot deal." Leak-down
Two types of compression gauges were used to check the compression of this engine's cylinders. NumberS cylinder could only muster 25 psi , whereas the
others averaged 130 psi. The problem was a burnt valve. If a cylinder is down on compression, squirt some oil on the top rear of the piston. Recheck com
pression a few minutes later. If compression improves, the problem is in the bore. Otherwise it's probably the valves.
level. Reconnect the lead and let the RPM
return to normal, then disconnect the
next lead in the firing order. When you're
finished checking all of the cylinders,
compare the readings . If all are within
20 RPM, no one cylinder is much worse
than the others. If the drop is different
by 40 RPM or more in some cylinders,
then there's a problem. Note the ones
with the least drop, and concentrate on
them during a compression test.
Compression Testing-Comparative com-
pression testing of an engine's cylinders
gives you an idea of the condition of
piston rings and cylinder bores. You'll
need a compression tester, a note pad and
a friend-or a remote starter switch.
Run your engine until it is up to oper-
a ting temperature. Shut the engine off,
disconnect the ignition wires and remove
all the spark plugs, being careful not to
get burned- everything is HOT. Now for
the test. Prop the throttle plate open and
make sure the choke plate is also open .
Insert a tester in cylinder 1 spark plug
hole . A screw-in type tester makes this
whole procedure a lot easier. If yours has
a rubber cone on the end, insert it into
the spark plug hole while holding it in
firmly and give it a half turn. This helps
make sure it seals. Turn the engine over
the same amount of strokes for each
cylinder tested-about five times will
do-and observe the maximum gauge
pressure. Write down the results and the
cylinder number. Go to cylinder 2,
repeating the procedure until you've
tested all cylinders in order-just to keep
things organized. Now that you have the
numbers, what do they mean?
You may see pressures anywhere from
80 to 250 psi, depending on the engine
and its problems. The best approach is
to compare the cylinder pressures with
each other . All cylinders of an engine
don't go bad at once, so the bad one/s
will show up like a "sore thumb." Another
thing to keep in mind is, cylinder pres-
sures of a high-compression engine, such
as the HP289 and Boss 302 engines,
may read lower than the low-compression
version of the same engine at cranking
speeds . This is due to cam timing and not
because of their mechanical compression
ratios . This doesn't apply at higher RPM.
Therefore, if you have a high-perfor-
mance engine, don't be shocked if your
neighbor boasts of higher cylinder pres-
sures from his tamer regular-gas-burning
engine.
What should the "spread" be between
cylinder pressures? A good rule is the
lowest pressure should not be less than
75 percent of the highest. Otherwise,
something is not quite right in your
engine. For example, if the highest read-
ing is 150 psi and the lowest is 120 psi,
then the engine is aU right because 150 X
0.75 = Il2-the lowest allowable pressure.
Now what do you do if all your read-
ings are not within the 75-percent range?
Something is wrong, but what? To test
the piston rings, squirt about a teaspoon
of heavy oil in the bad cylinder/s from
your oil can-40 weight will do. The best
way of determining if you are putting in
the right amount of oil is to see how
many squirts it takes to fill a teaspoon.
Squirt the same amount of oil in the spark
plug hole while directing it toward the
far side of the cylinder. It will also help
if you have the piston part way down the
cylinder to ensure getting the oil all the
way around the piston . Don't get any
oil on the valves. The oil will take a little
time to run down around the rings , so
wait a couple of minutes before recheck-
ing pressures . Now, if this causes the
questionable cylinders to increase in
pressure, the rings and bore are at fault
and a rebuild is in order. If the pressure
doesn't change an appreciable amount,
look further.
Leak-Down Testing-Leak-down testing is
similar to compression testing just covered,
but rather than the engine doing the
compressing, a leak-down tester does it.
It applies a test pressure via a special fit-
ting through the spark plug hole to the
cylinder being tested and monitors the
pressure the cylinder can maintain in
relation to the test pressure. This is a
better way to test an engine's condition .
It eliminates factors which affect the
results of a conventional compression
test, but do not reflect the sealing quali-
ties of a cylinder: valve timing, camshaft
wear or engine cranking speed . The prob-
lem with a leak-down tester is it costs
about three times as much as the con-
ventional compression tester. Conse-
quently, it's not practical for you to pur-
chase such an expensive piece of equip-
ment for a "one-shot deal." Leak-down
7
A leak-down tester is the most-accurate device for measuring a cylinder's sealing capability because
it eliminates factors which can affect compression-gauge readings. Because leak-down testing is done
without cranking the engine, cranking speed, valve timing and cam condition do not affect the read-
ings. Photo courtesy Sun Corporation.
testing is done by most tune-up shops.
A leak-down tester is an integral part of
Sun Electric's electronic analyzer. Sun
recommends t hat an engine which leaks
20% of its test pressure needs at t ent i on,
whereas a good cylinder will have 5 t o
10% leakage. So, if leak-down testing
your engine finds a problem cylinder,
you'll know t he problem will be rings,
valves or a head gasket and possibly a
piston or a crack in the cylinder head or
the cylinder wall.
Head Gasket or Valves?-Two candidates
may be causing t he problem at this point-
a leaky head gasket or a valve. If t wo cyl-
inders whlch are down on pressure and
they are adjacent t o one another, chances
are good t he problem is a blown head
gasket between t he t wo cylinders. It could
also be a head gasket when only one cyl-
inder is affected. If it is a gasket, there will
have been an unusual amount of, cool ant
loss from your radiator if cylinder pressure
is leaking i nt o your cooling system. This
situation is easy t o diagnose. Remove your
radiator cap and l ook at t he coolant
surface when your engine is running and
warmed up. If cylinder pressure is escap-
ing i nt o i t , you'll see bubbles. Before
making this check, make sure your coolant
level is up t o the mark. If you see bubbles,
smell the coolant. If they are caused by a
blown gasket, you should be able t o detect
gasoline or exhaust fumes as the bubbles
surface and burst. A sure way t o test for
this is t o take your car t o a professional
who has a device which "sniffs" the cool-
ant . It indicates whether or not the bub-
bles are caused by escaping cylinder pres-
sures and are not just recirculating air
bubbles. If a bad gasket is found, you'll
have t o remove a head t o replace i t . Use
t he procedures outlined in t he engine tear-
down and assembly chapters for this job.
Check t he head and block surfaces for
flatness. Fix any problems or you may
have t o repeat t he job.
Now for t he valves. If you didn' t find
your compression-loss problem with the
piston rings or a head gasket, t he last
probable customer will be a valvels. There
are numerous reasons for valves leaking,
but t he cause is always improper seating.
A valve may not be fully closing or it may
be burned. Bot h result in an unsealed
combustion chamber. If a fully closed
valve leaks it's probably burned, so check
for full closure fi;st. You'll need vernier
calipers or a dial indicatior.
Pull off t he valve covers and locate t he
cylinder you want t o check. It should be
on TDC (t op dead center) of its power
stroke-not between its exhaust and i n-
take stroke. This ensures both valves
should be fully closed. To do this, trace
t he spark-plug wires of t he cylinders you
are going t o check t o the distributor. Put
a mark/s on the distributor body in line
with t he lead on t he distributor cap. Re-
move t he cap.
When you crank your engine over and
line up the distributor rotor with the mark
on the distributor you'll know the cylin-
der will be reasonably near TDC on t he
power stroke.
If bot h valves are fully closed, you
should be able t o rotate the pushrods
with your fingers. It's very unlikely the
cam is holding a valve open unless t he
valves have been recently misadjusted. I
know of no instances where t he valve ad-
justment of a small-block Ford has de-
creased. If adjustment changes, it gets
looser. If t he pushrod rotates, the rocker
arm has unloaded t he valve so i t is free t o
close. If i t won' t rotate, back off that
valve's adjustment according t o the pro-
cedure in the engine assembly chapter.
One word of caution, if your valve
train is t he same as what was installed at
t he factory i t will have hydraulic lifters,
unless you have a HP289 or Boss 302.
Hydraulic lifters slightly load t he push-
rods, making them a little hard, but not
impossible t o turn. Therefore, don' t let
this fool you i nt o thinking the valve in
question is open. If you have the HP289,
Boss 302, or your cam has been changed
t o a mechanical t ype, t he pushrods will
be loose. That' s why mechanical cams are
noisy. They are loose because t he required
clearance t o ensure closing is about 0.020
inch when hot , as opposed t o the zero
lash of hydraulic lifters.
CHECKING VALVE LIFT
If all the valves appear t o be closing as
just described, check t o see if the pushrods
feel t oo loose. If one is, i t could mean
t hat a valve is sticking in its guide, pre-
venting i t from fully closing. To confirm
this, you'll have t o use your dial indicator
t o get an accurate reading on actual valve
lift. The depth-gauge end of a vernier
caliper will work if you don' t have a dial
indicator, but it' s not as easy t o use. If
you don' t have either one of these you
can use a 6-inch rule with a slide for mea-
suring dept h. It's not accurate, nor is it
very easy t o use but you've got t o use
what you have.
Bump t he engine over until the valve
you' re checking is fully opened, com-
pressing the valve spring. Make sure the
lifters are fully primed by cranking t he
engine so you're getting full valve lift. If
you have a dial indicator, set the indicator
plunger against the t op of the spring re-
tainer and in line with the valve stem so
you get a t rue reading, and zero the indi-
cator. If you' re using a vernier caliper or a
scale, measure from the spring-pad sur-
face-where t he spring sits on the cylinder
head-to the t op of t he spring retainer
A leak-down tester is the most-accurate device for measuring a cylinder's sealing capability because
it eliminates factors which can affect compression-gauge readings. Because leak-down testing is done
without cranking the engine, cranking speed, valve timing and cam condition do not affect the read-
ings. Photo courtesy Sun Corporation.
testing is done by most tune-up shops.
A leak-down tester is an integral part of
Sun Electric's electronic analyzer. Sun
recommends that an engine which leaks
20% of its test pressure needs attention,
whereas a good cylinder will have 5 to
10% leakage. So, if leak-down testing
your engine finds a problem cylinder,
you'll know the problem will be rings,
valves or a head gasket and possibly a
piston or a crack in the cylinder head or
the cylinder wall.
Head Gasket or Valves?-Two candidates
may be causing the problem at this point-
a leaky head gasket or a valve. If two cyl-
inders which are down on pressure and
they are adjacent to one another, chances
are good the problem is a blown head
gasket between the two cylinders. It could
also be a head gasket when only one cyl-
inder is affected. If it is a gasket, there will
have been an unusual amount of coolant
loss from your radiator if cylinder pressure
is leaking into your cooling system. This
situation is easy to diagnose. Remove your
radiator cap and look at the coolant
surface when your engine is running and
warmed up . If cylinder pressure is escap-
ing into it, you'll see bubbles. Before
making this check , make sure your coolant
level is up to the mark. If you see bubbles,
smell the coolant. If they are caused by a
8
blown gasket, you should be able to detect
gasoline or exhaust fumes as the bubbles
surface and burst. A sure way to test for
this is to take your car to a professional
who has a device which "sniffs" the cool-
ant. It indicates whether or not the bub-
bles are caused by escaping cylinder pres-
sures and are not just recirculating air
bubbles. If a bad gasket is found, you'll
have to remove a head to replace it. Use
the procedures outlined in the engine tear-
down and assembly chapters for this job.
Check the head and block surfaces for
flatness. Fix any problems or you may
have to repeat the job.
Now for the valves. If you didn't find
your compression-loss problem with the
piston rings or a head gasket, the last
probable customer will be a valve/so There
are numerous reasons for valves leaking,
but the cause is always improper seating.
A valve may not be fully closing or it may
be burned. Both resul t in an unsealed
combustion chamber. If a fully closed
valve leaks it's probably burned, so check
for full closure first. You'll need vernier
calipers or a dial irtdicatior.
Pull off the valve covers and locate the
cylinder you want to check. It should be
on TDC (top dead center) of its power
stroke-not between its exhaust and in-
take stroke. This ensures both valves
should be fully closed. To do this , trace
the spark-plug wires of the cylinders you
are going to check to the distributor. Put
a mark/s on the distributor body in line
with the lead on the distributor cap. Re-
move the cap.
When you crank your engine over and
line up the distributor rotor with the mark
on the distributor you'll know the cylin-
der will be reasonably near TDC on the
power stroke .
If both valves are fully closed, you
should be able to rotate the push rods
with your fingers. It's very unlikely the
cam is holding a valve open unless the
valves have been recently misadjusted. I
know of no instances where the valve ad-
justment of a small-block Ford has de-
creased. If adjustment changes, it gets
looser. If the pushrod rotates, the rocker
arm has unloaded the valve so it is free to
close. If it won't rotate, back off that
valve's adjustment according to the pro-
cedure in the engine assembly chapter.
One word of caution, if your valve
train is the same as what was installed at
the factory it will have hydraulic lifters,
unless you have a HP289 or Boss 302.
Hydraulic lifters sligh tly load the push-
rods, making them a little hard , but not
impossible to turn. Therefore , don't let
this fool you into thinking the valve in
question is open. If you have the HP289,
Boss 302, or your cam has been changed
to a mechanical type, the pushrods will
be loose. That's why mechanical cams are
noisy. They are loose because the required
clearance to ensure closing is about 0.020
inch when hot, as opposed to the zero
lash of hydraulic lifters.
CHECKING VALVE LIFT
If all the valves appear to be closing as
just described, check to see if the push rods
feel too loose . If one is, it could mean
that a valve is sticking in its guide, pre-
venting it from fully closing. To confirm
this, you'll have to use your dial indicator
to get an accurate reading on actual valve
lift. The depth-gauge end of a vernier
caliper will work if you don't have a dial
indicator, but it's not as easy to use. If
you don't have either one of these you
can use a 6-inch rule with a slide for mea-
suring depth. It's not accurate, nor is it
very easy to use but you've got to use
what you have .
Bump the engine over until the valve
you're checking is fully opened, com-
pressing the valve spring. Make sure the
lifters are fully primed by cranking the
engine so you're getting full valve lift. If
you have a dial indicator, set the indicator
plunger against the top of the spring re-
tainer and in line with the valve stem so
you get a true reading, and zero the indi-
cator. If you're using a vernier caliper or a
scale, measure from the spring-pad sur-
face-where the spring sits on the cylinder
head-to the top of the spring retainer
Checking valve lift b y measuring how much a valve spring compresses f r om t he valve being f ul l y Checking l obe l i f t di rectl y wi t h a pushrod and
closed t o f ul l y open wi l l conf i rm whether or not your cam is i n good shape or if you have a sticking di al i ndi cator is tedious but accurate and well
valve. Valve lift should measure between 0.400 in. and 0.500 in. depending on whi ch engine you wor t h t he t i me i f you suspect cam problems.
have.
Engine
22 1
260
289
HP289
302
Boss 302
351 W
CAMSHAFT LOBE LIFT (inch)
Originally installed camshaft
IIUTAKE EXHAUST
Year At Lifter At Valve At Lifter At Valve
62-63 0.2375 0.380 0.2375 0.380
62-64 0.2375 0.380 0.2375 0.380
63-68 0.2303 0.368 0.2375 0.380
63-67 0.2983 0.457 0.2983 0.457
68-75 0.2303 0.368 0.2375 0.380
"68 only (0.266) 0.426 (0.266) 0.425
76-78 0.2373 0.382 0.2474 0.398
69-70 0.290 0.477 0.290 0.477
69-75 0.260 0.41 8 0.278 0.448
76-78 0.260 0.418 0.260 0.41 8
"302s installed in some Fairlanes, Torinos and Mercury car lines.
Lobe l i f t in parentheses is approximate.
Checking valve lift by measuring how much a valve spring compresses from the valve being fully
closed to fully open will confirm whether or not your cam is in good shape or if you have a sticking
valve. Valve lift should measure between 0.400 in. and 0.500 in. depending on which engine you
have.
Checking lobe lift directly with a push rod and
dial indicator is tedious but accurate and well
worth the time if you suspect cam problems.
CAMSHAFT LOBE LI FT (inch)
Originally installed camshaft
II\ITAKE EXHAUST
Engine Year At Lifter At Valve At Lifter At Valve
221 62-63 0.2375 0.380 0.2375 0.380
260 62-64 0.2375 0.380 0.2375 0.380
289 63-68 0.2303 0.368 0.2375 0.380
HP289 63-67 0.2983 0.457 0.2983 0.457
302 68-75 0.2303 0.368 0.2375 0.380
*68 only (0.266) 0.426 (0.266) 0.425
76-78 0.2373 0.382 0.2474 0.398
Boss 302 69-70 0.290 0.477 0.290 0.477
351W 69-75 0.260 0.418 0.278 0.448
76-78 0.260 0.418 0.260 0.418
*302s installed in some Fairlanes, Torinos and Mercury car lines.
Lobe I ift in parentheses is approximate.
9
VALVE JOBS AND HIGH-MILEAGE
ENGINES
Doing a valve job only on a relatively
high-mileage engine may not solve its oil-
consumption problem. The reason is, as
an engine wears, its parts wear together.
As t he sealing quality of t he valves be-
comes less, t he same thing is happening t o
t he rings and pistons. After t he cylinder
heads are reconditioned, t hey will seal
better, creating higher compression and
vacuum loads on t he rings and pistons.
Where t he rings and pistons were doing a
satisfactory job before, rhey may not be
able t o seal adequately after a valve job.
Increased oil consumption and blowby
result. So beware of t he valve-job-only
solution.
and record t he figure. Now, bump t he
engine over until the pushrod is loose, in-
dicating t he valve is closed, and remeasure.
You can read valve opening directly with
t he indicator. Repeat this a couple of
times t o make sure of your figures if there
appears t o be a problem with t he valve
sticking or a worn cam lobe. You should
arrive at a valve-lift of 0.368-0.477 inch
depending on which engine you have. Re-
fer t o the specification on the preceding
page for the correct valve lift.
One problem with checking t he valve
lift on high-mileage hydraulic-lifter engines
is the lifters are usually so worn that they
can' t maintain sufficient pressure t o hold
t he valve completely open. They leak
down and partially close t he valve even
though the lifter is on t he t oe of the cam
lobe. Be aware of this problem if your
engine fits this category.
What if a valve lift is not up t o specifi-
cation? You are checking for a sticking
valve, so this is the first thing t o suspect.
As a double check, the installed height of
t he valve spring when t he valve is closed
should measure 1.50-1.80 inches. This
measurement is made between the spring
pad and t he underside of t he spring re-
tainer. Check t he specification chart for
your engine. If it is less than specified,
t he valve is sticking or being held open by
something. As a final check, back off t he
rocker-arm adjusting nut until the rocker
arm is loose. This will confirm a sticking
valve if spring height doesn' t change. You
can remove t he head with some assurance
that a valve job is in order. If t he spring
or valve lift does come up t o specification,
recheck cylinder pressure, but only after
adjusting the valve and warming up the
engine. If it comes up t o pressure, you've
found t he source of t he trouble, at least
with this cylinder.
Checking Camshaft Lobe Wear-If you've
found a valve is not lifting t o specifica-
tion, but it' s properly adjusted and t he
installed spring height is right, a worn
cam lobe has nothing t o do with causing
low cylinder pressure, but it has a l ot t o
The number of years t he small-block Ford has been around, plus t he changes it has
undergone during these years makes it impossible for any one person t o write a
book such as this. Completeness and accuracy required t hat I get help from people
who make their living selling or manufacturing engine parts, rebuilding engines and
servicing t hem.
At t he risk of leaving someone out , 1 am grateful t o: Denny Wyckoff who was
always ready t o share his years of engine rebuidling experience, and answer one
question after another. Daryl Koeppel and his sidekick Jim Hambacher of Holmes
Tut t l e Ford always t ook time t o answer questions concerning parts, part numbers,
interchangeability and those troublesome change levels. They also furnished parts
for many of t he photos you see t hroughout t he book.
Don Wood and Sam Ellison provided words of wisdom about removing and
installing engines. Charlie Camp, drawing on his years of experience as. a Ford
Service Engineer, was invaluable as he checked t he accuracy of my manuscript and
made many helpful suggestions. Bill Wheatley and Jeff Quick also t ook time out of
their busy schedules t o read over t he manuscript and offer suggestions.
All of the photos and drawings credited t o Ford Motor Company were cheerfully
supplied by Linda Lee of Ford's Parts and Services Division. Others I would like t o
t hank are: Ed Kerchen of Associated Spring, Bob Bub of Cloyes Gear and Products,
Bob Lopez of Federal Mogul, Tom Tlusty of Muscle Parts, Cal DeBruin of Sealed
Power Corporation, Jack Little of Sun Electric, Terry Davis and Gregg Strugalski of
TRW, Dale Cubic of Mr. Gasket, Randy Gillis of Sig Erson Racing Cams, Bill
Borrusch and Bob Robertson.
do with engine power loss. doesn't wear gradually like a cylinder
If your engine is down on power,check bore. Differences won' t be in thousandths,
all of the valves with the dial indicator. they'll be in t ent hs of an inch. All the
Rat her t han using the spring retainers t o lobes of a camshaft don' t all wear down
check from, a more accurate met hod is t o at once, they go one at a time. It's not
check each cam lobe directly via its push- uncommon t o see only one lobe of a cam
rod. You'll have t o loosen all t he rocker- wear while t he rest are perfectly all right.
arm adjusting nut s and rotate t he rockers Regardless of how many lobes you find
out of t he way of the pushrods. Starting
worn, if You find any, replace the cam
with t he number-1 cylinder, mount t he
and all lifters. Otherwise, t he new cam
dial indicator so i t is lined up wi t h t he
will be ruined before YOU get out of your
center of the pushrod. You may need a
driveway. Use t he procedure outlined in
piece of tape around the dial-indicator
t he engine assembly chapter when chang-
plunger and pushrod t o prevent t he push-
ing a camshaft and lifters.
rod from falling away from the plunger.
One final not e before proceeding t o
Make sure the pushrod is well seated i n
the next chapter, if you've discovered a
its lifter and t he lifter is solidly against
bad caln, but Your engine's com~r essi on
the base circle of t he camshaft lobe. With
is good and i t doesn't use much oil-no
the dial indicator set at zero, slowly bump
more than one quart Per 2000 miles, I
t he engine over with t he starter while you
suggest t hat You install a new camshaft
watch the indicator, Note t he maximum
and lifters. However, if your engine is Up
indicated reading and record i t with the
t o 500 miles Per quart and the COmPres-
cylinder number and whether i t is an in-
si0n On a few cylinders is less t han 75 per-
take or exhaust valve. You'll need this
cent of t he highest, it is time t o rebuild.
information later for comparison t o the
ot her lobes.
Camshaft lobe lift is t he difference be-
tween the highest portion of the lobe and
t he diameter of the base circle as indicated
by t he sketch on page 64. Lifts vary
from a high of 0.2983 inch t o a low of
0. 2303 inch, depending on which engine
you have. Refer t o t he specification chart
on page 9 for this information.
When checking camshaft lobe wear,
you won' t have much trouble distinguish-
ing t he bad ones from the good ones. When
a lobe starts t o wear, it goes quickly. It
1 FIRING ORDER
Making assumptions can get you into
trouble when it comes t o diagnosing, tun-
ing or building an engine. One of t he most
common assumptions made when it
comes t o t he Ford small blocks is t hat
their firing orders are all t he same. Not
so, t he 351 W fires differently: 1-3-7-2-6-
5-4-8. The 221 through 302 fires: 1-54-2-
6-3-7-8. Firing orders are cast i nt o t he t op
of t he intake manifolds.
VALVE JOBS AND HIGH-MILEAGE
ENGINES
DOing a valve job only on a relatively
high-mileage engine may not solve its oil-
consumption problem. The reason is, as
an engine wears, its parts wear together.
As the sealing quality of the valves be- .
comes less, the same thing is happening to
the rings and pistons. After the cylinder
heads are reconditioned, they will seal
better, creating higher compression and
vacuum loads on the rings and pistons.
Where the rings and pistons were doing a
satisfactory job before, they may not be
able to seal adequately after a valve job.
Increased oil consumption and blowby
result. So beware of the valve-job-only
solution.
and record the figure. Now, bump the
engine over until the push rod is loose, in-
dicating the valve is closed, and remeasure.
You can read valve opening directly with
the indicator. Repeat this a couple of
times to make sure of your figures if there
appears to be a problem with the valve
sticking or a worn cam lobe. You should
arrive at a valve-lift of 0.368-0.477 inch
depending on which engine you have. Re-
fer to the specification on the preceding
page for the correct valve lift.
One problem with checking the valve
lift on high-mileage hydraulic-lifter engines
is the lifters are usually so worn that they
can't maintain sufficient pressure to hold
the valve completely open. They leak
down and partially close the valve even
though the lifter is on the toe of the cam
lobe. Be aware of this problem if your
engine fits this category.
What if a valve lift is not up to specifi-
cation? You are checking for a sticking
valve, so this is the first thing to suspect.
As a double check, the installed height of
the valve spring when the valve is closed
should measure 1.50-1.80 inches . This
measurement is made between the spring
pad and the underside of the spring re-
tainer. Check the specification chart for
your engine. If it is less than specified,
the valve is sticking or being held open by
something. As a final check, back off the
rocker-arm adjusting nut until the rocker
arm is loose. This will confirm a sticking
valve if spring height doesn' t change. You
can remove the head with some assurance
that a valve job is in order. If the spring
or valve lift does come up to specification,
recheck cylinder pressure, but only after
adjusting the valve and warming up the
engine. If it comes up to pressure , you've
found the source of the trouble, at least
with this cylinder.
Checking Camshaft Lobe Wear-If you've
found a valve is not lifting to specifica-
ti on, but it's properly adjusted and the
installed spring height is right , a worn
cam lobe has nothing to do with causing
low cylinder pressure , but it has a lot to
10
THANKS
The number of years the small-block Ford has been around, plus the changes it has
undergone during these years makes it impossible for anyone person to write a
book such as this. Completeness and accuracy required that I get help from people
who make their living selling or manufacturing engine parts, rebuilding engines and
servicing them.
At the risk of leaving someone out, I am grateful to: Denny Wyckoff who was
always ready to share his years of engine rebuidling experience, and answer one
question after another . Daryl Koeppel and his sidekick Jim Hambacher of Holmes
Tuttle Ford always took time to answer questions concerning parts, part numbers,
interchangeability and those troublesome change levels . They also furnished parts
for many of the photos you see throughout the book.
Don Wood and Sam Ellison provided words of wisdom about removing and
installing engines. Charlie Camp, drawing on his years of experience as a Ford
Service Engineer, was invaluable as he checked the accuracy of my manuscript and
made many helpful suggestions. Bill Wheatley and Jeff Quick also took time out of
their busy schedules to read over the manuscript and offer suggestions.
All of the photos and drawings credited to Ford Motor Company were cheerfully
supplied by Linda Lee of Ford's Parts and Services Division. Others I would like to
thank are: Ed Kerchen of Associated Spring, Bob Bub of Cloyes Gear and Products,
Bob Lopez of Federal MogUl, Tom Tlusty of Muscle Parts, Cal DeBruin of Sealed
Power Corporation, Jack Little of Sun Electric, Terry Davis and Gregg Strugalski of
TRW, Dale Cubic of Mr. Gasket, Randy Gillis of Sig Erson Racing Cams, Bill
Borrusch and Bob Robertson.
do with engine power loss.
If your engine is down on power, check
all of the valves with the dial indicator.
Rather than using the spring retainers to
check from, a more accurate method is to
check each cam lobe directly via its push-
rod. You'll have to loosen all the rocker-
arm adjusting nuts and rotate the rockers
out of the way of the pushrods. Starting
with the number-l cylinder , mount the
dial indicator so it is lined up with the
center of the pushrod. You may need a
piece of tape around the dial-indicator
plunger and pushrod to prevent the push-
rod from falling away from the plunger.
Make sure the pushrod is well seated in
its lifter and the lifter is solidly against
the base circle of the camshaft lobe . With
the dial indicator set at zero, slowly bump
the engine over with the starter while you
watch the indicator. Note the maximum
indicated reading and record it with the
cylinder number and whether it is an in-
take or exhaust valve. You'll need this
information later for comparison to the
other lobes .
Camshaft lobe lift is the difference be-
tween the highest portion of the lobe and
the diameter of the base circle as indicated
by the sketch on page 64. Lifts vary
from a high of 0.2983 inch to a low of
0 .2303 inch, depending on which engine
you have. Refer to the specification chart
on page 9 for this information .
When checking camshaft lobe wear,
you won't have much trouble distinguish-
ing the bad ones from the good ones. When
a lobe starts to wear, it goes quickly . It
doesn't wear gradually like a cylinder
bore . Differences won't be in thousandths,
they'll be in tenths of an inch. All the
lobes of a camshaft don't all wear down
at once, they go one at a time. It's not
uncommon to see only one lobe of a cam
wear while the rest are perfectly all right.
Regardless of how many lobes you find
worn, if you find any, replace the cam
and all lifters . Otherwise, the new cam
will be ruined before you get out of your
driveway . Use the procedure outlined in
the engine assembly chapter when chang-
ing a camshaft and lifters.
One final note before proceeding to
the next chapter, if you've discovered a
bad cam, but your engine's compression
is good and it doesn't use much oil-no
more than one quart per 2000 miles, I
suggest that you install a new camshaft
and lifters. However, if your engine is up
to 500 miles per quart and the compres-
sion on a few cylinders is less than 75 per-
cent of the highest, it is time to rebuild.
FIRINGORDER
Making assumptions can get you into
trouble when it comes to diagnosing, tun-
ing or building an engine. One of the most
common assumptions made when it
comes to the Ford small blocks is that
their firing orders are all the same. Not
so, the 351W fires differently: 1-3-7-2-6-
5-4-8. The 221 through 302 fires: 1-5-4-2-
6-3-7-8. Firing orders are cashnto the top
of the intake manifolds.
Engine Removal
2
Fully equipped 1975 351W. This largest displacement
member of the small-block Ford engine family is
destined to become Ford's "big-block." Photo courtesy
Ford.
Because you've gotten t o this chapter I
assume your engine needs rebuilding and
must come out . Pulling an engine is one
of the most troublesome and potentially
dangerous parts of rebuilding an engine if
i t isn't done right. These troubles are
compounded when it comes time t o
reinstall the engine. A careful and orderly
removal job avoids problems, or mini-
mizes them at both ends of the project.
PREPARATION
Removing an engine is like diagnosing
one-to do i t right you' ll need special
equipment ot her t han t he standard set of
tools. You should have something t o
drain engine liquids i nt o, a jack and jack
stands t o raise and support your vehicle,
a method of lifting your engine, a couple
of fender protectors and some masking
tape t o identify loose ends so you can
tell where they go when it's time t o
reinstall your newly rebuilt engine.
Before starting the engine removal
process, ask yourself some questions.
First, is your lifting device and what it
will be attached t o strong enough to
handle 650 Ibs.? A chain hoist hanging
from a two-by-four isn't strong enough.
Will you be able t o leave your car where
the engine is removed? Finally, will you
be able t o move t he engine or car once
the engine is lifted out of its compart -
ment ?
One of t he more common met hods of
pulling an engine is t o do i t in a garage
with a chain hoist attached t o a cross-
beam. The car is jacked up and supported
by jack stands or driven up some ramps,
followed by getting the engine ready for
removing. After t he engine is hoisted out
of t he engine compart ment , the car is
set back down on t he ground and rolled
outside for parking in an out-of-the-way
place. The engine can then be lowered t o
the floor for teardown. The order is
reversed at installation time. If ramps are
used, i t is tough t o push a car back up t he
ramps.
Unfortunately, a too-common result
of this method is t he money saved by
doing the rebuild job by yourself can be
negated by t he expense involved in re-
building t he garage roof-or worse yet ,
paying t he hospital bills. If t he chain
hoist support is st rong enough, t he draw-
back with this approach is you'll have t o
move your car before lowering t he en-
gine-and once it is down you'll have t o
move i t . A final word of caution about
using this met hod: I've never ever found
a passenger-car garage with a beam sturdy
enough t o support an engine safely.
Then there is the "shade-tree"
approach. Set up an A-frame made from
12- t o 15-ft.-long, 5- or 6-in.-diameter
locust poles-preferably under a tree for
shade, of course. Chain them together
securely at t he t op and hang a chain hoist
from t he chain. Drive your car up t wo
ramps located so t he engine ends up
directly under the chain fall. Block the
car so i t won' t roll back down the ramp
about the time you start to pull the
engine. Get t he engine ready for removal
and lift i t up and clear of t he car, then
roll t he car off t he ramps and lower t he
engine t o t he ground. Even though I'm
jesting about the shade-tree approach, an
A-frame like I've just described is a lot
stronger than a garage beam. With today' s
lumber prices, you'll probably want to
take t he next approach. The easiest way I
know of t o remove engines is with a
"cherry picker" rented from your nearest
"A-to-Z" rental on a daily basis. They are
worth every cent-about $10 a day. Most
of them can be towed behind a car. You'll
need one for an hour or so when removing,
and again when installing your engine.
This neat device lets you lift your engine
out and move i t where you want t o st art
your teardown.
With my sermon over, let's get on with
getting your engine out . The small-block
series of engines started as a 221CID
installed in t he 1962 Fairlane and has
since t hat time been installed in all types
and descriptions of vehicles. Therefore,
due t o the complexities involved in ex-
plaining how t o pull an engine out of every
vehicle these engines have been used i n,
Because you've gott en to this chapter I
assume your engine needs rebuilding and
must come out. Pulling an engine is one
of the most troublesome and potentially
dangerous parts of rebuilding an engine if
it isn't done right. These troubles are
compounded when it comes time to
reinstall the engine. A careful and orderly
removal job avoids problems, or mini-
mizes them at both ends of the project.
PREPARATION
Removing an engine is like diagnosing
one-to do it right you'll need special
equipment other than the standard set of
tools . You should have something to
drain engine liquids into, a jack and jack
stands to raise and support your vehicle,
a method of lifting your engine, a couple
of fender protectors and some masking
tape to identify loose ends so you can
tell where they go when it's time to
reinstall your newly rebuilt engine.
Before starting the engine removal
process, ask yourself some questions.
First, is your lifting device and what it
will be attached to strong enough to
handle 650 lbs .? A chain hoist hanging
from a two-by-four isn't strong enough.
Will you be able to leave your car where
the engine is removed? Finally, will you
be able to move the engine or car once
the engine is lifted out of its compart-
ment?
Engine Removal
2
Fully equipped 1975 351W. This largest displacement
member of the smallblock Ford engine family is
destined to become Ford's "big-block." Photo courtesy
Ford.
One of the more common methods of
pulling an engine is to do it in a garage
with a chain hoist attached to a cross-
beam. The car is jacked up and supported
by jack stands or driven up some ramps,
followed by getting the engine ready for
removing. After the engine is hoisted out
of the engine compartment, the car is
set back down on the ground and rolled
outside for parking in an out-of-the-way
place . The engine can then be lowered to
the floor for teardown. The order is
reversed at installation time. If ramps are
used , it is tough to push a car back up the
ramps.
Unfortunately , a too-common result
of this method is the money saved by
doing the rebuild job by yourself can be
negated by the expense involved in re-
building the garage roof-or worse yet,
paying the hospital bills. If the chain
hoist support is strong enough, the draw-
back with this approach is you'll have to
move your car before lowering the en-
gine-and once it is down you'll have to
move it. A final word of caution about
using this method: I've never ever found
a passenger-car garage with a beam sturdy
enough to support an engine safely.
Then there is the "shade-tree "
approach . Set up an A-frame made from
12- to 15-ft.-long, 5- or 6-in .-diameter
locust poles-preferably under a tree for
shade, of course . Chain them together
securely at the top and hang a chain hoist
from the chain. Drive your car up two
ramps located so the engine ends up
directly under the chain fall. Block the
car so it won't roll back down the ramp
about the time you start to pull the
engine. Get the engine ready for removal
and lift it up and clear of the car , then
roll the car off the ramps and lower the
engine to the ground . Even though I'm
jesting about the shade-tree approach, an
A-frame like I've just described is a lot
stronger than a garage beam. With today's
lumber prices, you'll probably want to
take the next approach. The easiest way I
know of to remove engines is with a
"cherry picker" rented from your nearest
"A-to-Z" rental on a daily basis. They are
worth every cent-about $10 a day . Most
of them can be towed behind a car . You'll
need one for an hour or so when removing,
and again when installing your engine.
This neat device lets you lift your engine
out and move it where you want to start
your teardown.
With my sermon over , let's get on with
getting your engine out. The small-block
series of engines started as a 221 CID
installed in the 1962 Fairlane and has
since that time been installed in all types
and descriptions of vehicles. Therefore,
due to the complexities involved in ex-
plaining how to pull an engine out of every
vehicle these engines have been used in,
11
Small-block Fords have been installed in virtually every type of vehicle going. Here is a custom.
installed '64 289 in a 1954 Jeep.
I'll generalize and let your common sense
fill the voids. The vehicle I used as an
example is a 1968 Mustang using a 302
loaded with accessories. About the only
thing it didn't have was an air-injection
Pump.
Before you immobilize your vehicle,
clean your engine and transmission to
remove as much dirt and grease as possible.
The most effective and simplest way of
doing this is with a can of spray degreaser
and some water. If your car is running,
take it t o a car wash and just follow the
directions on the can. Or, use their de-
greasing spray if one is available. Other-
wise, do it at home with a garden hose.
Take fair warning, what's on your engine
ends up under the car after you're finished,
so act accordingly. After you've finished
your engine it won't look like new, but it
will be a whole lot easier to work on.
Now, with your engine and trans-
mission clean and everything ready to go,
1'11 explain how to remove the engine
point-by-point :
Fender Protector-Put a fender protector,
or a suitable facsimile over each front
fender to protect the finish. In addition,
they are comfortable t o lean on and your
tools won't slide off as easily.
Battery-If you have a standard trans-
mission, remove the battery and store it
in a safe place. If you have an automatic
transmission, disconnect the ground cable
at the battery, but leave the battery in
because it will be handy later on. Dis-
connect the coil-to-distributor lead-the
'It's easier t o work with a clean engine. A can of
spray degreaser and your garden hose will
do the job. Cover the carburetor to prevent
filling the engine and carburetor with water.
one coming out of the center of the
distributor cap, or the distributor-to-
amplifier lead.
Remove the Hood-If you have an engine
compartment light, disconnect it first.
Before loosening the bolts, mark the hinge
locations relative t o the hood. Do this by
tracing around the hinges at the hood
with a scriber, grease pencil or a piece of
chalk. A neat method of guaranteeing
that a hood goes back in exactly the same
position as it was before its hinge bolts
are loosened is t o drill an 118-in. hole up
through both hinges and the hood inner
panel-don't go through the hood! To
reinstall the hood, bolt it loosely to the
hinges, insert an ice pick through the
holes in the hinge and hood t o align it,
then tighten the bolts. The result-perfect
alignment. This will save you the trouble
of readjusting the hood when it is re-
placed. Remove the front hinge bolts and
loosen the back ones while supporting the
hood. A helping hand comes in handy-
you on one side and him on the other.
Remove the back bolts and lift the hood
off. Place it out out of the way where it
won't get damaged. Stand it up in the
garage and wire the latch t o a nail driven
in a wall stud. This will keep it from fall-
ing over. Another trick is t o put it on the
roof of your car. Protect the paint or
vinyl top by putting something between
the rear corners of the hood and the hood
latch and the roof. I assume your car will
be parked inside out of the wind, other-
wise don't try the hood-on-the-roof trick.
' P L ANA~ ~ ~ AD ,.
, L *
1 .
. It's very terqptinrfqrhgayL' ta cazy:'
'discorin~~gevetyfhln$ in si& iithaut'
cbmqa tq ~1e.l
., dt: small h x e $ ,fdc, tho bolts, nu$~ahd
'yvasbeh, If yqrrr -euuirb, i s Ibade'd hith',
. . abeisorlq~, you1!I find j t especial~y helb-
Sul . o 'labej f+ ten%inc,rs as m tb par-
ficu ar unit$hepaas came frbrn5
1- L.
'
I
Small-block Fords have been installed in virtually every type of vehicle going. Here is a custom-
installed '64289 in a 1954 Jeep.
I'll generalize and let your common sense
fill the voids. The vehicle I used as an
example is a 1968 Mustang using a 302
loaded with accessories. About the only
thing it didn' t have was an air-injection
pump.
Before you immobilize your vehicle ,
clean your engine and transmission to
remove as much dirt and grease as possible.
The most effective and simplest way of
doing this is with a can of spray degreaser
and some water. If your car is running,
take it to a car wash and just follow the
directions on the can. Or, use their de-
greasing spray if one is available . Other-
wise , do it at home with a garden hose .
Take fair warning, what 's on your engine
ends up under the car after you're fini shed,
so act accordingly . After you' ve finished
your engine it won't look like new, but it
will be a whole lot easier to work on.
Now, with your engine and trans-
mission clean and every tiling ready to go,
I'll explain how to remove the engine
poin t-by-point :
Fender Protector-Put a fender protector ,
or a suitable facsimile over each front
fender to protect the finish. In addition,
they are comfortable to lean on and your
tools won't slide off as easily .
12
Battery-If you have a standard trans-
mission, remove the battery and store it
in a safe place. If you have an automatic
transmission , disconnect the ground cable
at the battery , but leave the battery in
because it will be handy later on. Dis-
connect the coil-to-distributor lead-the
'It's easier to work with a clean engine. A can of
spray degreaser and your garden hose will
do the job. Cover the carburetor to prevent
filling the engine and carburetor with water.
one coming out of the center of the
distributor cap, or the distributor-to-
amplifier lead.
Remove the Hood-If you have an engine
compartment light, disconnect it first.
Before loosening the bolts, mark the hmge
locations relative to the hood . Do this by
tracing around the hinges at the hood
with a scdber, grease pencil or a piece of
chalk. A neat method of guaranteeing
that a hood goes back in exactly the same
position as it was before its hinge bolts
are loosened is to drill an 1/8-in . hole up
through both hinges and the hood inner
panel-don 't go through the hood! To
reinstall the hood, bolt it loosely to the
hinges, insert an ice pick t h r o u ~ tJ:e
holes in the hinge and hood to align It ,
then tighten the bolts. The result-perfect
alignment. This will save you the trouble
of readjusting the hood when it is re-
placed. Remove the front hinge bolts and
loosen the back ones while supporting the
hood. A helping hand comes in handy-
you on one side and him on the other.
Remove the back bolts and lift the hood
off. Place it out out of the way where it
won't get damaged. Stand it up in the
garage and wire the latch to a nail driven
in a wall stud . This will keep it from fall -
ing over. Another trick is to put it on the
roof of your car. Protect the paint or
vinyl top by putting something between
the rear corners of the hood and the hood
latch and the roof. I assume your car will
be parked inside out of the wind , other-
wise don't try the hood-on-the-roof trick.
PLAN AHEAD
It's very tempting and easy to "go crazy"
disconnecting everything in sight without
regard to where things have ' to go later
I on. Don't rely oh your memory. Even if
there are only 5 hoses, there are 120 ways
they could be installed and 119iuewrongl
Mark all the items you disconnect such as
wires and vacuum hoses. Wrap masking ,
tllpe aro\Jnd the end of the wjres or hoses
and make a little "flag" for writing
where the .ends go. Put similar flags on
the connection itself so you can get it all
back together. Put ' your camerata use.
Periodically snap some pictures of your
engine from . ~ couple?f angl.es as YOU ' I
disconnect thlqgs, A pIcture IS worth a
thousand words . . Finally, use coffee cans
or small boxes for the bolts, nuts and
washer'S. If your engine is loaded with .
accessories, you'll find it especiaUy help-
ful to label the containers as to the par-
ticular unitthe parts came from.
jegln the engine removal process by removing the hooa and disconnecting the battery grouna lead. If you have a standard transmission, remove the
>attery too.
Drai B coolant-loosen the radiator cap
wi l l araln quicker-remove the upper and lower
radiator hoses.
If there is a shroud, unbol t it and lay it bacl
. . ,
-
over the f r ont of your engine behind the fan.
Begin the engine removal process by removing the hood and disconnecting the battery ground lead. If you have a standard transmission, remove the
battery too.
Drain the coolant-loosen the radiator cap so it
will drain quicker-remove the upper and lower
radiator hoses.
If there is a shroud, unbolt it and lay it back
over the front of your engine behind the fan.
13
Remove the Radiator First -Turn your
attention to the fan and radiator. Remov-
ing the radiator gives better access to the
front of your engine for removing the
accessories and prevents the radiator from
--
This can be a real knuckle-scraper. Unbolt the
them out as a loose assembly. Take the shrouc
ensure good cooling.
fan
d or
and spacer from the water-p~ ..., flange and l i f t
it next. This broken shroud must be replaced to
being damaged' during engine removal.
One little nudge from the engine as it is
being pulled can junk a radiator.
The first impulse is t o remove the fan
before the radiator, but this is a sure way
t o remove the skin from your knuckles.
The core fins put the radiator in the same
family as cheese graters. Drain the radi-
ator-it's faster with the cap off. Remove
the top and bottom hoses and replace
them if they are over 2-years old, partic-
ularly if you live in a hot-dry climate like
the southwest U. S. Disconnect the
automatic-transmission cooling lines
which run t o the bottom of down-flow
radiators and t o the side of cross-flow
radiators. Use a tube-nut wrench to pre-
vent rounding off the nuts. This lookslike
a wide six-point box-end wrench with one
flat cut out so you can slip the wrench
over the tubing and around the nut. After
the nuts are loose, slide them back from.
the ends of the tubes and connect the
two lines with a hose to prevent trans-
mission fluid from siphoning out and
messing up your driveway or garage floor.
A clean hose the size of your radiator
overflow will do nicely, in fact you can
use it if it's clean.
Loosen the transmission-cooling lines from the radiator. Use a tube-nut wrench t o avoid rounding off the nuts. Immediately after disconnecting the lines,
connect them with a rubber hose about the size of the radiator overflow hose to prevent automatic-transmission fluid loss by siphoning.
14
This can be a real knuckle-scraper_ Unbolt the fan and spacer from the water-pump flange and lift
them out as a loose assembly_ Take the shroud out next_ This broken shroud must be replaced to
ensure good cooling.
Remove the Radiator First-Turn your
attention to the fan and radiator. Remov-
ing the radiator gives better access to the
front of your engine for removing the
accessories and prevents the radiator from
being damaged during engine removal.
One little nudge from the engine as it is
being pulled can junk a radiator.
The first impulse is to remove the fan
before the radiator, but this is a sure way
to remove the skin from your knuckles.
The core fins put the radiator in the same
family as cheese graters _ Drain the radi-
ator-it 's faster with the cap off. Remove
the top and bottom hoses and replace
them if they are over 2-years old , partic-
ularly if you live in a hot-dry climate like
the southwest U. S. Disconnect the
au toma tic-transmission cooling lines
which run to the bottom of down-flow
radiators and to the side of cross-flow
radiators. Use a tube-nut wrench to pre-
vent rounding off the nuts. This looks like
a wide six-point box-end wrench with one
flat cut out so you can slip the wrench
over the tubing and around the nut. After
the nuts are loose, slide them back from.
the ends of the tubes and connect the
two lines with a hose to prevent trans-
mission fluid from siphoning out and
messing up your driveway or garage floor .
A clean hose the size of your radiator
overflow will do nicely, in fact you can
use it if it's clean.
Loosen the transmission-cooling lines from the radiator . Use a tube-nut wrench to avoid rounding off the nuts. Immediately after disconnecting the lines,
connect them with a rubber hose about the size of the radiator overflow hose to prevent automatic-transmission fluid loss by siphoning.
14
If there is a fan shroud, unbolt it from
the radiator and lay it back around the
fan on the engine. Remove the radiator.
First, cut a piece of cardboard to fit the
backside of the radiator core. then taDe it
in place. This will protect 'the delkate
radiator fins and your knuckles. If your
radiator is bolted solidly t o the radiator
support, there are 4 bolts, 2 at each side.
When you remove the bolts, be ready to
support the radiator as you lift it out. Do
it -with care because fins bend easily if
they are bumped. If you have the rubber-
mounted type radiator, remove the
bracketls which clamp over the top and
lift the radiator out. While you are still
holding it, store the radiator in a safe
place where it can stay until you're ready
t o reinstall it. The trunk is usually a good
spot. Remove the fan shroud.
Fan-With the radiator out you have a
much clearer view of the front of your
and lift fan, spacer and bolts out together. taking i t t o a radiator shop t o have i t cleaned.
engine. Loosen the fan-attaching bolts
Unbolt the radiator and l i ft i t out, being careful not t o bump i t and damage the fins. Consider
On clutch-drive fans. use an ovenend
wrench to get to the' bolts betwken the
fan and pulley.
Air Cleaner-Remove the air-cleaner
assembly after disconnecting anything
whlch attaches to it such as the hot-air
duct, fresh-air duct and the crankcase
vent hose.
Throttle Linkage-It will either be the
rod-and-lever type or the cable type. A
rod type may have an intermediate bell-
crank assembly on the intake manifold.
Remove it completely from the intake
manifold-after disconnecting the rod
which runs from the bellcrank to the car-
buretor. This type has an extra rod from
the bellcrank to the dash panel (firewall).
Either rotate the rod and bellcrank
assembly up out of the way or remove it
completely. If the rod runs from the pedal
shaft t o the carburetor, disconnect it at
the carburetor end and swing it up out of
the way. On cable types, disconnect the
cable at the carburetor end and pinch the
tabs or remove the retaining screw at the
end of the cable conduit so the cable
assembly can be withdrawn from its
manifold bracket. Cable linkages used
with an automatic transmission require
disconnecting the TV rod, or transmission
kick-down rod. Disconnect it at the car-
buretor and wire it to the dash panel.
Don't Trust Your Memory-Here's where
a camera and masking tape can be put t o
use. Label each hose and wire before
removing it. Disconnect all the hoses and
wires from the top of the engine. There'll
be a hose from the power-brake booster
t o the intake manifold and many smaller
vacuum hoses, depending on the year and
how your car is equipped. An engine-
wiring harness usually lays along the inside
flange of the left valve cover, retained in
clips under three of the valve-cover bolts.
Disconnect hoses, linkages and wires from the top of the engine, label and tie them out of the way.
If there is a fan shroud, unbolt it from
the radiator and lay it back around the
fan on the engine. Remove the radiator.
First, cut a piece of cardboard to fit the
backside of the radiator core, then tape it
in place. This will protect the delicate
radiator fins and your knuckles. If your
radiator is bolted solidly to the radiator
support, there are 4 bolts, 2 at each side .
When you remove the bolts, be ready to
support the radiator as you lift it out. Do
it with care because fins bend easily if
they are bumped. If you have the rubber-
moun ted type radiator, remove the
bracket/s which clamp over the top and
lift the radiator out. While you are still
holding it, store the radiator in a safe
place where it can stay until you're ready
to reinstall it. The trunk is usually a good
spot. Remove the fan shroud.
Fan-With the radiator out you have a
much clearer view of the front of your
engine . Loosen the fan-attaching bolts Unbolt the radiator and lift it out, being careful not to bump it and damage the fins. Consider
and lift fan, spacer and bolts out together. taking it to a radiator shop to have it cleaned_
On clutch-drive fans, use an open-end
wrench to get to the bolts between the
fan and pulley.
Air Cleaner-Remove the air-cleaner
assembly after disconnecting anything
which attaches to it such as the hot-air
duct, fresh-air duct and the crankcase
vent hose.
Throttle Linkage-It will either be the
rod-and-Iever type or the cable type . A
rod type may have an intermediate bell-
crank assembly on the intake manifold .
Remove it completely from the intake
manifold-after disconnecting the rod
which runs from the bellcrank to the car-
buretor. This type has an extra rod from
the bellcrank to the dash panel (firewall).
Either rotate the rod and bellcrank
assembly up out of the way or remove it
completely. If the rod runs from the pedal
shaft to the carburetor, disconnect ita t
the carburetor end and swing it up out of
the way. On cable types, disconnect the
cable at the carburetor end and pinch the
tabs or remove the retaining screw at the
end of the cable conduit so the cable
assembly can be withdrawn from its
manifold bracket. Cable linkages used
with an automatic transmission require
disconnecting the TV rod, or transmission
kick-down rod. Disconnect it at the car-
buretor and wire it to the dash panel.
Don't Trust Your Memory-Here's where
a camera and masking tape can be put to
use. Label each hose and wire before
removing it. Disconnect all the hoses and
wires from the top of the engine. There'll
be a hose from the power-brake booster
to the intake manifold and many smaller
vacuum hoses, depending on the year and
how your car is equipped. An engine-
wiring harness usually lays along the inside
flange of the left valve cover, retained in
clips under three of the valve-cover bolts.
Disconnect hoses, linkages and wires from the top of the engine, label and tie them out of the way.
15
A/C combined with power steering is complic
equipped with a fixed idler pulley like the one
Then remove the adjustable idler pulley and the
ated. Loosen and remove the drive belts. If yours is
pictured below the A/C compressor, remove i t first.
compressor-support bracket.
Disconnect the harness leads from the oil-
pressure sending unit, water-temperature
sending unit, coil, AIC compressor clutch
and any emissions-related devices. Bend
the clips t o release the harness and lay it
out of the way after everything is discon-
nected. Disconnect the heater hoses. Plan
t o replace them if they are more than 2-
years old. You will need to measure them
for replacements-518- or 314-in. diameter
and how long?
Pulleys and Belts-Removing the accessor-
ies is the most difficult part of removing
and replacing an engine. Loosen all the
belts and remove them. This will free the
water-pump drive pulley, but you won't
be able to remove it if your engine has a
three-belt accessory drive system. You'll
have t o remove the crank pulley. After
removing the crank-pulley bolts, tap the
pulley lightly with a rubber or plastic
hammer t o loosen it. The pulley pilots
into the center of the crankshaft damper,
so it may be a little tight. The water-pump
pulley will now be free t o come off.
A/C Compressor and Power-Steering Pump
Go Together-I'll describe an engine which
has a complete array of accessories, so
disregard those areas which don't apply
t o your engine. Start with the A/C com-
pressor and power-steering pump. Remove
the AIC-idler pulley and bracket assembly
attached to the front of the top compres-
sor bracket. With the pulley out of the
way, remove this bracket. Some of the
bolts are hidden under and behind the
bracket. Before removing the A/C com-
pressor, you have t o remove the power-
steering pump because i t uses the bottom
compressor bracket for mounting. Remove
the pump and its front mount, being
careful to support the pump right-side up
t o prevent fluid loss. Leave the hoses
connected to the pump and set the pump
aside. Wire it to the left-front fender
apron to keep it from falling over and
spilling the fluid.
Avoid Disconnecting the A/C Hoses-
Here's where you can save some trouble.
Instead of disconnecting the A/C com-
pressor hoses so you can remove the com-
pressor from the engine compartment
completely, set it aside like the power-
steering pump. This eliminates the need
to recharge the A/C. Unbolt the bracket
from the front of the engine and lay the
compressor over t o the side. To get the
compressor and lines completely out of
the way, support the compressor from
the left fender. Use a strong cord and
bent nail t o hook in the wheel opening.
With the cord tied to the nail and a bolt
threaded into the compressor, hook the
nail around the wheel-opening flange with
a rag protecting the fender. Tie the cord
short enough to support the compressor
high enough so it will be out of your way.
Remove the bracket from the bottom of
the compressor so it won't interfere with
removing the engine.
A/C combined with power steering is complicated. Loosen and remove the drive belts. If yours is
equipped with a fixed idler pulley I ike the one pictured below the A/C compressor, remove it first.
Then remove the adjustable idler pulley and the compressorsupport bracket.
16
Disconnect the harness leads from the oil
pressure sending unit, water-temperature
sending unit, coil , A/C compressor clutch
and any emissions-related devices. Bend
the clips to release the harness and lay it
out of the way after everything is discon-
nected . Disconnect the heater hoses. Plan
to replace them if they are more than 2-
years old. You will need to measure them
for replacements-S/8- or 3/4-in . diameter
and how long?
Pulleys and Belts-Removing the accessor-
ies is the most difficult part of removing
and replacing an engine. Loosen all the
belts and remove them. This will free the
water-pump drive pulley , but you won't
be able to remove it if your engine has a
three-bel t accessory drive system. You 'Il
have to remove the crank pUlley . After
removing the crank-pulley bolts , tap the
pulley lightly with a rubber or plastic
hammer to loosen it. The pulley pilots
into the center of the crankshaft damper,
so it may be a little tight. The water-pump
pulley will now be free to come off.
A/C Compressor and Power-Steering Pump
Go Together-I'll describe an engine which
has a complete array of accessories, so
disregard those areas which don't apply
to your engine. Start with the Ale com-
pressor and power-steering pump. Remove
the Ale-idler pulley and bracket assembly
attached to the front of the top compres-
sor bracket. With the pulley out of the
way, remove this bracket. Some of the
bolts are hidden under and behind the
bracket. Before removing the A/C com-
pressor, you have to remove the power-
steering pump because it uses the bottom
compressor bracket for mounting. Remove
the pump and its front mount, being
careful to support the pump right-side up
to prevent tluid loss. Leave the hoses
connected to the pump and set the pump
aside. Wire it to the left-front fender
apron to keep it from falling over and
spilling the fluid.
Avoid Disconnecting the A/C Hoses-
Here's where you can save some trouble .
Instead of disconnecting the A/C com-
pressor hoses so you can remove the com-
pressor from the engine compartmen t
completely, set it aside like the power-
steering pump. This eliminates the need
to recharge the Ale. Unbolt the bracket
from the front of the engine and lay the
compressor over to the side. To get the
compressor and lines completely out of
the way, support the compressor from
the left fender. Use a strong cord and
bent nail to hook in the wheel opening.
With the cord tied to the nail and a bolt
threaded into the compressor, hook the
nail around the wheel-opening flange with
a rag protecting the fender. Tie the cord
short enough to support the compressor
high enough so it will be out of your way.
Remove the bracket from the bottom of
the compressor so it won't interfere with
removing the engine.
Remove the power-steering pump. You may
have t o disconnect the pump-to-reservoir return
line t o get it out of the way against the left
fender apron. Make sure the pump sits upright
so fluid doesn't run out.
When unbolting tne Alc compressor and its
mounting bracket from the engine, be ready t o
handle about 25 pounds.
A strong cord tied t o a bent nail supports the AIC compressor out of the way, subsequently avoiding
the need for disconnecting compressor lines and recharging the AIC system. A rag keeps the nail
from scratching the fender.
Remove the power-steering pump_ You may
have to disconnect the pump-to-reservoir return
line to get it out of the way against the left
fender apron_ Make sure the pump sits upright
so fluid doesn't run out_
When unbolting the Ale compressor and its
mounting bracket from the engine, be ready to
handle about 25 pounds_
. SAVING YOUR AIR CONDITIONING
REFRIGERANT
If you have to remove the AIC compressor
prior to remolling your engine, the. hoses
must be disconn'ected. Fortunately, this
. can be accomplished without ' losing all
the refrigerant on earl ier .models equi pped
with service valves. Unfortunately, service
valves were phased out during the mid-
70s. The valves are in line with the hoses
or lines and are usually covered with
cadmium-plated caps. If yours is, remove
the caps and run the valves in all the way.
Close (turn clockwise) the high- and low-
pressure valves at the compressor to isolate
the charged system from the compressor.
The system is now isolated from the com-
pressor . Before removing the hoses from
the compressor, loo'sen the gauge-port cap
a small amount until you are certain all
the pressure has escaped. CAUTION: High
pressure in these lines can hurt or blind
you if you are careless. Wear goggles to
protect your eyes, even when bleeding
pressu re , from thecompres$or. Now you
can remove the hoses by disconnecting
the service valves from the compressor ,so
they stay with the -hoses and seal the
system. Don't remove the valves from the
hoses. Place the hoses oLit of the way and
you're ready to remove the compressor
after sealing it so it will stay clean and
dry. Use the caps which are used to seal
new compressors before they are installed.
You should be able to pick some up for
nothing at your local garage. Remove the
compressor with its bracket and set it
aside.
A strong cord tied to a bent nail supports the Ale compressor out of the way, subsequently avoiding
the need for disconnecting compressor lines and recharging the Ale system. A rag keeps the nail
from scratching the fender .
17
With the left side stripped of its accessories
you can remove the fuel pump. Disconnect the
fuel line at the carburetor and remove the fuel
pump and fuel line together.
A gauge-type oil-pressure sending unit such as
this one should be removed now t o avoid
breaking i t off at the block. First remove the
oil filter so the extension and sending unit can
be unthreaded. Keep your wrench close to the
block end of the extension.
Alternator or Generator and Air Pump-
The left side of your engine should be bare
so shift your attention to the other side.
There will be an alternator or generator
and possibly an air pump. One will be
mounted above the other, but which one
depends on the year and model. If yours
has a generator, it won't have an air pump
because they didn't exist back then. If
there is an air pump, remove it after dis-
connecting the hose. Also remove the by-
pass valve and other related hardware. As
for the alternatorlgenerator, don't remove
it as it'll have t o be in place for just a little
while longer. You can remove its adjusting
bracket and loosen the long mounting
bolt.
Don't Forget the Filler Tube and Ground
Straps-Two easy things to overlook until
your engine ceases to move as you're pull-
ing it out are the transmission-filler tube
(automatics) and the engine ground straps.
These are attached t o the right cylinder
head at the rear. You might find it easier
to remove the ground strap from the fire-
wall. If you do, remember to remove it
from the engine and put it back on the
firewall after the engine is out. This pre-
vents the strap from getting lost or for-
gotten between now and when you re-
place the engine.
Clutch Linkage-With a standard trans-
mission using a rod-and-lever clutch link-
age, you have some more up-top work.
Some models have a spring from the top
of the equalizer bar to the firewall-
remove it. Parallel t o the spring is a push-
rod extending through the firewall to the
and the release-lever pushrod will swing
free. You can now remove the bellcrank-
and-pushrod assembly. If you have the
cable-type linkage, you're in luck because
it doesn't have to be removed or discon-
nected because it isn't attached to the
engine.
Remove the Fuel Pump and Line-Dis-
connect the fuel-tank-to-fuel-pump line at
the fuel pump. To prevent siphoning and
the consequent fire hazard created by
spilled gasoline, push a 318-in. diameter
bolt into the end of the hose. Make sure
the bolt isn't fully threaded. If it is, fuel
can leak out around the threads, so it
should have at least 112-in. unthreaded
shank. While you have your head down in
there, remove the pump. Disconnect the
fuel line at the carburetor by removing
the short hose. Use a tubing wrench on
the fitting at the pump.
Be Careful Removing the Oil-Pressure
Sender-With the fuel pump out of the
way, you can see the oil-pressure sending
Use a penetrant such as CRC@ on the exhaust-manifold studs and nuts to loosen them up. Remove
the top ones from above. Get the bottom ones from underneath later. It's a tight squeeze both ways.
top of the equalizer bar. Disconnect it at
the equalizer, being careful not t o lose
the bushing. I f it looks worn out, count
on replacing it. To save it, replace it on
the rod and put the clip back in place.
The equalizer bar connects the engine to
the frame or body. The bar pivots on a
bracket attached t o the frame or body
with 2 bolts. Remove them and the
bracket will pull out of the end of the
equalizer bar. The equalizer will be free
to pull off its pivot at the engine, but
you'll have to finish this job from under-
neath. This can usually be done without
raising your car by reaching the bellcrank-
to-release lever under the car. Unhook it
unit. It threads directly into the engine
block-used with a warning light-or will
be on an extension moving the sender out-
board away from the front-face of the
engine block t o accommodate the larger
gauge sender. To remove the sender using
an extension, you'll have to remove the
oil filter because the sending unit threads
into the extension at an angle, so the
sender swings a wide arc, hitting the filter
as the sender-extension assembly is turned.
Don't unscrew the sending unit from the
extension and then the extension from
the engine because this often breaks the
extension flush with the engine-block
side. Keep your wrench close to the
With the left side stripped of its accessories
you can remove the fuel pump. Disconnect the
fuel line at the carburetor and remove the fuel
pump and fuel line together.
Alternator or Generator and Air Pump-
The left side of your engine should be bare
so shift your attention to the other side.
There will be an alternator or generator
and possibly an air pump. One will be
mounted above the other, but which one
depends on the year and model. If yours
has a generator , it won't have an air pump
because they didn' t exist back then. If
there is an air pump, remove it after dis-
connecting the hose . Also remove the by-
pass valve and other related hardware. As
for the alternator/generator, don't remove
it as it'll have to be in place for just a little
while longer. You can remove its adjusting
bracket and loosen the long mounting
bolt.
Don't Forget the Filler Tube and Ground
Straps-Two easy things to overlook until
your engine ceases to move as you're pull-
ing it out are the transmission-filler tube
(automatics) and the engine ground straps .
These are attached to the right cylinder
head at the rear. You might find it easier
to remove the ground strap from the fire-
wall . If you do, remember to remove it
from the engine and put it back on the
firewall after the engine is ou t. This pre-
vents the strap from getting lost or for-
gotten between now and when you re-
place the engine .
Clutch Linkage-Wi th a standard trans-
mission using a rod-and-lever clu tch link-
age, you have some more up-top work.
Some models have a spring from the top
of the equalizer bar to the firewall-
remove it. Parallel to the spring is a push-
rod extending through the firewall to the
18
A gauge-type oil -pressure sending unit such as
this one should be removed now to avoid
breaking it off at the block. First remove the
oil filter so the extension and sending unit can
be unthreaded . Keep your wrench close to the
block end of the extension.
and the release-lever pushrod will swing
free . You can now remove the bellcrank-
and-pushrod assembly. If you have the
cable-type linkage, you're in luck because
it doesn ' t have to be removed or discon-
nected because it isn't attached to the
engine .
Remove the Fuel Pump and Line-Dis-
connect the fuel-tank-to-fuel-pump line at
the fuel pump. To prevent siphoning and
the consequent fi re hazard created by
spilled gasoline , push a 3/8-in. diameter
bolt into the end of the hose. Make sure
the bolt isn't fully threaded . If it is, fuel
can leak out around the threads, so it
should have at least I/2-in. unthreaded
shank . While you have your head down in
there, remove the pump . Disconnect the
fuel line at the carburetor by removing
the short hose. Use a tubing wrench on
the fitting at the pump .
Be Careful Removing the Oil-Pressure
Sender-With the fuel pump out of the
way , you can see the oil-pressure sending
Use a penetrant such as CRC@ on the exhaust-manifold studs and nuts to loosen them up . Remove
the top ones from above. Get the bottom ones from underneath later . It's a tight squeeze both ways.
top of the equalizer bar. Disconnect it at
the equalizer, being careful not to lose
the bushing. If it looks worn out, count
on replacing it. To save it, replace it on
the rod and put the clip back in place.
The equalizer bar connects the engine to
the frame or body . The bar pivots on a
bracket attached to the frame or body
with 2 bolts. Remove them and the
bracket will pull out of the end of the
equalizer bar . The equalizer will be free
to pull off its pivot at the engine , bu t
you'll have to finish this job from under-
neath. This can usually be done without
raising your car by reaching the bellcrank-
to-release lever under the car. Unhook it
unit. It threads directly into the engine
block-used with a warning light - or will
be on an extension moving the sender out-
board away from the front-face of the
engine block to accommodate the larger
gauge sender. To remove the sender using
an ex tension , you'J] have to remove the
oil filter because the sending unit threads
into the extension at an angle, so the
sender swings a wide arc , hitting the filter
as the sender-extension assembly is turned .
Don' t unscrew the sending unit from the
extension and then the extension from
the engine because this often breaks the
extension flush with the engine-block
side. Keep your wrench close to the
block end of the extension when removing
the extension and sender.
The only reason to remove the fuel
pump and oil-pressure sending unit from
the engine prior to removing an engine is
to prevent the possibility of bumping the
sender and breaking the extension. If you
have the type of sender which doesn't use
the extension, you won't have to remove
it. This type fits tightly against the engine
and the chances of it getting bumped and
broken are remote.
Your engine is looking pretty bare on
top, the only things left are operations
that can be divided between doing from
above and below. Before getting the
wheels in the air, do these partial jobs to
avoid unnecessary climbing up and over
the fenders.
Get What You Can From the Top-Re-
move the top exhaust-manifold exhaust-
pipe bolts. These are easier t o get t o from
the top unless you have a long extension
in your socket set. Some pentrating oil on
the threads about an hour prior to remov-
ing the nuts and the use of a box-end
wrench help avoid damaged knuckles
when doing this job-an open-end slips
off easily and there's no room for a
ratchet handle.
At the back of the engine remove as
many bellhousing or converter-housing
bolts as you can. You may be able to get
a ratchet handle between the firewall and
the bolt heads, but not for every bolt.
Engine Mounts-Ford did us a big favor
by designing the engine mounts for easy
engine removal and installation. Each
mount is a two-piece assembly. The
rubber portion attaches t o the engine and
a stamped-steel pad mounts to the frame
Remove the engine-mount through-bolts by removing their nuts and sliding the bolts and their
washers forward out of their mounts. You may have t o get at the left side from underneath. Drawing
courtesy Ford.
or body. The two pieces are held togeth-
er with a through-bolt except for the
early Fairlane and the high-performance
289s which use vertical bolts or studs.
After removing the nut from each
through-bolt, the bolts should slide out of
their respective mounts very easily be-
cause there is no load on the bolts other
than the clamping load from torque
of the nut on the bolt. To undo the bolt
and nut, place a box-end wrench on the
nut and use a socket and ratchet with an
extension on the other. As you start to
unthread the bolt from the nut, the box-
end wrench will rotate against the engine,
body or frame so you won't have to hold
that end. When the nut is off, slide the
bolt forward out of the mount. I find it
easier t o get to the left mount from be- It's a tight squeeze getting at the converter
low. You'll have to assess your particular
housing or bellhousing bolts from above, but
situation.
it's easier than from underneath. Get as many
as you can from topside before raising your car.
Jack Your Car Up-It's time t o get your
car in the air. A truck usually has enough
ground clearance to work underneath
without raising it. Not so with a car. A
hydraulic floor jack is great t o have at
With the car in the air, place the jack
this point. You'll only have to raise the
stands under the frame or body of the
front of your car for removing the engine.
car rather than the front suspension. 1
To do this, place the jack under the
prefer this method because it's possible
number-two crossmember. Frame cars the car may shift sideways. This doesn't
have a substantial crossmember to which usually result in the car falling, but it's
the lower control arms of the front sus- not something t o chance. As you. can see
pension attach. Unit-body cars have a less- from the photo, I placed the jack stand
substantial-looking tubular crossmember under the swaybar bracket, a good sub-
which bolts t o the body. It is all right t o stantial location which gets thejackstands
use this crossmember to raise a car, but forward out of your way. If you don't
be careful because it's easy t o get the jack use jack stands to support your car, what-
pad under the steering linkage, possibly ever you use, make sure it is wide-based,
bending the center link. A 2" x 4" wood particularly side-to-side so the car can't
block between the jack and crossmember s hf t sideways. Block the back tires so
helps. the car can't move backward or forward.
,
INSULATOR
ASSEMBLY
I
~
SUPPORT
block end of the extension when removing
the extension and sender.
The only reason to remove the fuel
pump and oil-pressure sending unit from
the engine prior to removing an engine is
to prevent the possibility of bumping the
sender and breaking the extension. If you
have the type of sender which doesn't use
the extension, you won't have to remove
it. This type fits tightly against the engine
and the chances of it getting bumped and
broken are remote.
Your engine is looking pretty bare on
top, the only things left are operations
that can be divided between doing from
above and below. Before getting the
wheels in the air, do these partial jobs to
avoid unnecessary climbing up and over
the fenders.
Get What You Can From the Top-Re-
move the top exhaust-manifold exhaust-
pipe bolts . These are easier to get to from
the top unless you have a long extension
in your socket set. Some pentrating oil on
the threads about an hour prior to remov-
ing the nuts and the use of a box-end
wrench help avoid damaged knuckles
when doing this job-an open-end slips
off easily and there's no room for a
ra tchet handle .
At the back of the engine remove as
many bellhousing or converter-housing
bolts as you can. You may be able to get
a ratchet handle between the firewall and
the bolt heads, but not for every bolt.
Engine Mounts-Ford did us a big favor
by designing the engine mounts for easy
engine removal and installation. Each
moun t is a two-piece assembly. The
rubber portion attaches to the engine and
a stamped-steel pad mounts to the frame
Remove the engine-mount throughbolts by removing their nuts and sliding the bolts and their
washers forward out of their mounts. You may have to get at the left side from underneath. Drawing
courtesy Ford.
or body. The two pieces are held togeth
er with a throughbolt except for the
early Fairlane and the highperformance
289s which use vertical bolts or studs.
After remOVing the nut from each
throughbolt, the bolts should slide out of
their respective mounts very easily be
cause there is no load on the bolts other
than the clamping load from torque
of the nut on the bolt. To undo the bolt
and nut, place a box-end wrench on the
nut and use a socket and ratchet with an
extension on the other. As you start to
unthread the bolt from the nut, the box
end wrench will rotate against the engine,
body or frame so you won't have to hold
that end. When the nut is off, slide the
bolt forward out of the mount. I find it
easier to get to the left mount from be
low. You'll have to assess your particular
situation.
Jack Your Car Up-It's time to get your
car in the air. A truck usually has enough
ground clearance to work underneath
without raising it. Not so with a car. A
hydraulic floor jack is great to have at
this point. You'll only have to raise the
front of your car for removing the engine.
To do this, place the jack under the
numbertwo crossmember. Frame cars
have a substantial crossmember to which
the lower control arms of the front sus-
pension attach. Unit-body cars have a less
substantial-looking tubular crossmember
which bol ts to the body. It is all right to
use this crossmember to raise a car, but
be careful because it's easy to get the jack
pad under the steering linkage, possibly
bending the center link. A 2" x 4" wood
block between the jack and crossmember
helps.
It's a tight squeeze getting at the converter
housing or bellhousing bolts from above, but
it's easier than from underneath. Get as many
as you can from topside before raising your car .
With the car in the air , place the jack
stands under the frame or body of the
car rather than the front suspension. I
prefer this method because it's possible
the car may shift sideways . This doesn't
usually result in the car falling, but it's
not something to chance. As you can see
from the photo, I placed the jack stand
under the swaybar bracket, a good sub
stantiallocation which gets the jack stands
forward out of your way. If you don't
use jack stands to support your car, what
ever you use, make sure it is wide-based,
particularly sidetoside so the car can't
shift sideways. Block the back tires so
the car can't move backward or forward.
19
When j acki ng u p t he f r ont o f a car, it's best t o
use t he crossmember just behi nd t he engine. I n
t he case of a uni t - body car such as t hi s Mustang,
t he bol t - on t ubul ar crossmember wi l l support
t he load, b u t don' t jack against t he steering
linkage. You' l l bend it.
Exhaust-pi pe t o mani f ol d bol t s are hard t o
reach. A universal socket and very l ong exten-
si on i s one answer.
Support your car sol i dl y on jack stands. What-
ever y ou do, don' t depend o n a jack or concrete
blocks. It coul d be fatal.
Do not use bricks, cement blocks or cin-
der blocks. These materials work fine with
evenly distributed loads, but they crack
or crumble when subjected to point load-
ing as in supporting a car. If I seem t o be
dwelling on this subject too much, when
a car falls the result is often fatal-if it
doesn't kill someone, the least is usually
serious bodily harm. Be careful.
Now's the time to get your trusty
creeper into service-or a big sheet of card-
board works well, particularly if you're
over dirt. A creeper doesn't roll well in
the dirt.
Finish the Clutch Linkage-With the car
in the air, finish those partially finished
jobs you started from the top. If you
have a standard transmission with a rod-
and-lever clutch linkage, finish removing
the equalizer bar and release-lever push-
rod assembly. Just remove the retaining
spring from the release lever and you can
pull the bellcrank off the engine pivot to
remove it.
Exhaust System-Finish disconnecting
the exhaust system from the manifolds.
Here's where a 12-1 5-in. extension for
your socket set comes in handy for reach-
ing the nuts.
Cooling Lines and Starter-Motor Cable-
With an automatic transmission, make
sure the cooling lines are unclipped from
the engine. Some have clips and some
don't. If yours does, just push the lines
out of the clips to release them. While
I SUPPORT BRACKET \
UTCH PEDAL
CLUTCH PEDAL ROD
ELLCRANK
FRAME PI VOT
BRACKET
I I
T o remove t he cl utch-l i nkage bellcrank, remove t he pi vot bracket f r om t he f rame or body siderail,
t hen di sconnect t he cl utch-pedal r od and t he release-lever pushrod and spri ng f r om t he bellcrank.
Thi s permi ts t he bel l crank t o slide of f t he pi vot at t he ending. Drawi ng courtesy Ford.
When jacking up the front of a car, it's best to
use the crossmember just behind the engine. In
the case of a unit-body car such as this Mustang,
the bolt-on tubular crossmember will support
the load, but don't jack against the steering
linkage. You'll bend it.
SUPPORT BRACKET
Support your car solidly on jack stands. What-
ever you do, don't depend on a jack or concrete
blocks. It could be fatal.
CLUTCH PEDAL ROD
FRAME PIVOT
BRACKET
To remove the clutch-linkage bellcrank, remove the pivot bracket from the frame or body siderail,
then disconnect the clutch-pedal rod and the release-lever pushrod and spring from the bellcrank_
This permits the bellcrank to slide off the pivot at the ending. Drawing courtesy Ford.
20
Exhaust-pipe to manifold bolts are hard to
reach. A universal socket and very long exten-
sion is one answer.
Do not use bricks , cement blocks or cin-
de r blocks. These materials work fine with
evenly distributed loads, but they crack
or crumble when subjected to point load-
ing as in supporting a car. If I seem to be
dwelling on this subject too much , when
a car falls the result is often fatal-i f it
doesn't kill someone, the least is usually
serious bodily harm. Be careful.
Now's the time to get your trusty
creeper into service-or a big sheet of card-
board works well , particularly if you're
over dirt. A creeper doesn't roll well in
the dirt.
Finish the Clutch Linkage-With the car
in the air, finish those partially finished
jobs you started from the top. If you
have a standard transmission with a rod-
and-lever clutch linkage, finish removing
the equalizer bar and release-lever push-
rod assembly . Just remove the retaining
spring from the release lever and you can
pull the bellcrank off the engine pivot to
remove it.
Exhaust System-Finish disconnecting
the exhaust system from the manifolds.
Here 's where a 12-1S-in. extension for
your socket set comes in handy for reach-
ing the nuts.
Cooling Lines and Starter-Motor Cable-
With an automatic transmission, make
sure the cooling lines are unclipped from
the engine. Some have clips and some
don't. If yours does, just push the lines
out of the clips to release thein . While
To disconnect the converter from the flex plate you'll have t o reconnect the battery ground. Remove
the cover plate t o expose the back-side of the flexplate, then have a friend "bump" the engine over
t o expose each attaching nut with the understanding that he is not t o touch the starter switch until
you've given the word. Or, use a remote starter switch t o bump the engine over. A wrench on the
crankshaft damper bolt also works.
you're looking up where these lines go
past the engine-usually on the right side
near the top of the oil pan-make sure the
starter-to-battery lead is out ofits bracket.
The bracket is on the right-front engine..
mount-to-engine bolt. Bend the bracket
loop and slide the cable and its grommet
out.
Engine Mounts-If you couldn't reach the
left engine mount from topside to remove
the bolt, do it now. Remember, once the
nut is off, just slide the bolt out.
Expose the Converter Attachments-With
an automatic transmission, remove the
converter cover at the front of the con-
verter housing. Once you have the 2
attaching bolts out, remove the bolt
through the engine plate into the housing
on the opposite side from the starter.
After this is out, slide the cover from bet-
ween the engine plate and converter hous-
ing.
Get Power t o the Starter-Reconnect the
battery ground so you'll have power to
the starter. Now, if you don't possess a
remote starter have a trustworthy friend
bump the engine over to expose each of
the converter-to-flexplate nuts for re-
moval-a socket on the front of the crank
pulley will accomplish the job just as
effectively. CAUTION-If you use a
friend, make sure he understands the
ignition switch is not t o be touched with-
out your direction.
Now for the Starter Motor-After remov-
ing the converter nuts, disconnect the
battery cables at the battery. Disconnect
the starter cable and remove the starter.
Remove the bottom starter bolt first and
then the top one while supporting the
front of the starter with one hand. Lifting
the starter out is tricky on unit-body cars
not equipped with rack-and-pinion steer-
ing. Slide the starter forward and drop its
nose (geared end) between the steering
linkage and the converter housing.
Finish Disconnecting the Bellhousing-
Regardless of which transmission you
have, the rest of the removal process is
pretty much the same. The only job left
before lowering your car is to remove the
remaining bellhousing/converter housing
bolts. After doing this take one last look
underneath just t o make certain everything
is disconnected.
Remove the Alternator or Generator-
After setting your car down, the last thing
t o do before pulling the engine is to dis-
connect the battery ground and the alter-
nator lead from the engine. Remove the
alternator/generator and tie it to the side
out of the way. Remove the battery.
Lift the Engine Out-Take another last
look around the engine compartment to
double-check that everything is discon-
nected-inevitably there will be something.
Once that you're confident the engine is
ready, position your lifting device over
the engine, or the car with the engine
under it, whichever. Attach a lifting cable
forward out of the bellhousing or converter
housing. Some earlier unit-body cars are tight
in this area and you'll have t o tilt the starter
down behind the steering linkage.
To disconnect the converter from the flex plate you'll have to reconnect the battery ground. Remove
the cover plate to expose the backside of the flexplate, then have a friend "bump" the engine over
to expose each attaching nut with the understanding that he is not to touch the starter switch until
you've given the word. Or, use a remote starter switch to bump the engine over. A wrench on the
crankshaft damper bolt also works.
you're looking up where these lines go
past the engine-usually on the right side
near the top of the oil pan-make sure the
starter-to-battery lead is out of its bracket.
The bracket is on the right-front engine-
mount-to-engine bolt. Bend the bracket
loop and slide the cable and its grommet
out.
Engine Mounts-If you couldn't reach the
left engine mount from topside to remove
the bolt, do it now. Remember, once the
nut is off, just slide the bolt out.
Expose the Converter Attachments-With
an au toma tic transmission, remove the
converter cover at the front of the con-
verter housing. Once you have the 2
attaching bolts out, remove the bolt
through the engine plate into the housing
on the opposite side from the starter.
After this is out, slide the cover from bet-
ween the engine plate and converter hous-
ing.
Get Power to the Starter-Reconnect the
battery ground so you'll have power to
the starter. Now, if you don't possess a
remote starter have a trustworthy friend
bump the engine over to expose each of
the converter-to-flexplate nuts for re-
moval-a socket on the front of the crank
pulley will accomplish the job just as
effectively. CAUTION-If you use a
friend , make sure he understands the
ignition switch is not to be touched with-
out your direction.
Now for the Starter Motor-After remov-
ing the converter nuts, disconnect the
battery cables at the battery. Disconnect
the starter cable and remove the starter.
Remove the bottom starter bolt first and
then the top one while supporting the
front of the starter with one hand. Lifting
the starter out is tricky on unit-body cars
not equipped with rack-and-pinion steer-
ing. Slide the starter forward and drop its
nose (geared end) between the steering
linkage and the converter housing.
Finish Disconnecting the Bellhousing-
Regardless of which transmission you
have, the rest of the removal process is
pretty much the same. The only job left
before lowering your car is to remove the
remaining bellhousing/converter housing
bolts . After doing this take one last look
underneath just to make certain everything
is disconnected.
Remove the Alternator or Generator-
After setting your car down, the last thing
to do before pulling the engine is to dis-
connect the battery ground and the alter-
nator lead from the engine. Remove the
alternator/generator and tie it to the side
out of the way. Remove the battery .
Lift the Engine Out-Take another last
look around the engine compartment to
double-check that everything is discon-
nected-inevitably there will be something.
Once that you're confident the engine is
ready, position your lifting device over
the engine, or the car with the engine
under it , whichever. Attach a lifting cable
Remove the starter bolts and slide the starter
forward out of the bel/housing or converter
housing. Some earlier unit-body cars are tight
in this area and you'll have to tilt the starter
down behind the steering linkage.
21
When removi ng t he remai ni ng converter-housi ng Remove your al ternatorl generator, rememberi ng
or bel l housi ng bolts, don' t overl ook t he bol t t o di sconnect i t s engine ground. Posi t i on it out
attachi ng t he engine pl at e t o t he housi ng on t he of t he way. Remove ot her electrical leads t o
side opposi te t he starter. t he engine such as t he starter cable and engine
ground at t he rear o f t he r i ght cyl i nder head
where t he automati c-transmi ssi on f i l l er t ube is
attached.
with looped ends or a chain to the front
of one head and rear of the other with
bolts and a laree washer on each bolt. The
chain or cable kill be positioned diagonally
across the engine. Make sure there is
enough slack in the cablelchain so you'll
be able t o set the engine all the way down
where you want once it's out of the engine
compartment. The chain or cable must be
short enough so the engine can be lifted
high enough to clear the body work when
pulling it out. Hook the chain approxi-
mately in the middle so the engine will be
balanced once it is free from the trans-
mission and the engine mounts. Put a jack
under the transmission so it won't fall
once the engine has been pulled away.
Now, raise the engine until it can be pulled
forward and clear of the engine mounts.
Bring the jack in contact with the trans-
mission again and now you're ready to
disengage the engine from the trans-
mission. This may require a little juggling.
Standard transmissions mean moving the
,engine farther forward so the transmission-
input shaft fully disengages from the
clutch. Don't try t o force the engine if it
hangs up. You could damage something.
Check around to see what bolt, ground
strap or other connection you may have
overlooked. Disconnect it and proceed
Wi t h an engine hoi st posi t i oned over t he engine, attach a c hai i di agonal l y across t he engine f or
balance-to t he f r ont o f one head and t o t he rear o f t he ot her one.
When removing the remaining converter-housing
or bellhousing bolts, don't overlook the bolt
attaching the engine plate to the housing on the
side opposite the starter_
with looped ends or a chain to the front
of one head and rear of the other with
bolts and a large washer on each bolt. The
chain or cable will be positioned diagonally
across the engine _ Make sure there is
enough slack in the cable/chain so you'll
be able to set the engine all the way down
where you wan t once it's ou t of the engine
compartment. The chain or cable must be
short enough so the engine can be lifted
high enough to clear the body work when
pulling it out. Hook the chain approxi-
mately in the middle so the engine will be
balanced once it is free from the trans-
mission and the engine mounts. Put a jack
under the transmission so it won't fall
once the engine has been pulled away.
Now, raise the engine until it can be pulled
forward and clear of the engine mounts .
Bring the jack in contact with the trans-
mission again and now you're ready to
disengage the engine from the trans-
mission. This may require a little juggling.
Standard transmissions mean moving the
engine farther forward so the transmission-
input shaft fully disengages from the
clutch. Don' t try to force the engine if it
hangs up . You could damage something.
Check around to see what bolt, ground
strap or other connection you may have
overlooked . Disconnect it and proceed
22
Remove your alternator/generator. remembering
to disconnect its engine ground. Position it out
of the way. Remove other electrical leads to
the engine such as the starter cable and engine
ground at the rear of the right cylinder head
where the automatic-transmission filler tube is
attached.
With an engine hoist positioned over the engine, attach a chain diagonally across the engine for
balance-to the front of one head and to the rear of the other one.
A jack positioned under the transmission With the engine lifted hig'h enough to clear the
prevents i t from falling when the engine disen- engine compartment, i t can be rolled t o a con-
gages from it. venient place t o begin stripping i t down, but
first . . .
. . .Don is marking the flex plate and converter stud so the two can be reassembled in their original
positions.
to remove the engine. As soon as the
engine is completely free of the trans-
mission, hoist it out.
Mark the Converter-to-Flex-Plate Loca-
tion-With light-colored paint-spray or
brush-mark the one stud on the torque
converter and the matching bottom hole
on the engine flex plate. Flex-plate holes
and torque-converter studs fit very tightly,
so if you mark them to go back the way
they came apart, this is one variable you'll
know is right if t hngs don't click together
when you are reinstalling the engine.
Secure All the Loose Parts-If you don't
want t o leave your jack under the trans-
mission or want to free your car so it can
be rolled, support the transmission so it
doesn't fall when you lower the jack. Old
coat hangers work well for this job. The
same thing goes for the exhaust system.
With your engine out and hanging in
mid air, begin stripping it down to the
bare essentials as described in the tear-
down chapter.
Before the parts are scattered, collect
and store them in a safe place where they
won't get mixed in with your lawn mower,
motorcycle, snowmobile or any other
parts you have lying around. You'll be
glad you did. If you get most of the grease
and oil off the parts and put them in
greaseproof containers, the inside of your
car and in the trunk are good places t o
keep miscellaneous parts.
Continue with tearing your engine
down by slupping the next chapter and
go directly to Chapter 4. Save the Parts
Identification and Interchange chapter
for when you're ready t o sit down and
relax.
A jack positioned under the transmission
prevents it from falling when the engine disen-
gages from it .
With the engine lifted high enough to clear the
engine compartment, it can be rolled to a con-
venient place to begin stripping it down, but
first ...
. . . Don is marking the flex plate and converter stud so the two can be reassembled in their original
positions.
to remove the engine. As soon as the
engine is completely free of the trans-
mission , hoist it ou t.
Mark the Converter-to-Flex-Plate Loca-
tion-With light-colored paint -spray or
brush-mark the one stud on the torque
converter and the matching bottom hole
on the engine flex plate . Flex-plate holes
and torque-converter studs fit very tightly ,
so if you mark them to go back the way
they came apart , this is one variable you '11
know is right if things don't click together
when you are reinstalling the engine.
Secure All the Loose Parts-If you don't
want to leave your jack under the trans-
mission or want to free your car so it can
be rolled, support the transmission so it
doesn't fall when you lower the jack. Old
coat hangers work well for this job. The
same thing goes for the exhaust system.
With your engine out and hanging in
mid air, begin stripping it down to the
bare essentials as described in the tear-
down chapter .
Before the parts are scattered, collect
and store them in a safe place where they
won't get mixed in with your lawn mower,
motorcycle, snowmobile or any other
parts you have lying around. You'll be
glad you did . If you get most of the grease
and oil off the parts and put them in
greaseproof containers, the inside of your
ca r and in the trunk are good places to
keep miscellaneous parts.
Continue with tearing your engine
down by skipping the next chapter and
go directly to Chapter 4. Save the Parts
Identification and Interchange chapter
for when you're ready to sit down and
relax.
If you have to return the jack or you want your
car free to move you'll have to support the
transmission and exhaust system. Wire coat
hangers are used here.
23
3
Parts Identification
and Interchange
L a -
HP289 i s t r ul y a hi gh-performance engine produci ng 271
HP at 6000 RPM. It i s characterized b y i t s sol i d-l i fter valve
train, f ree-f l owi ng exhaust mani fol ds, dual -poi nt centri fugal -
advance-only di st ri but or and hi gh-strength nodul ar-i ron
crankshaft and main-bearing caps. Phot o courtesy Ford.
It's a real money-saver t o know what
parts can be interchanged, especially
when you need t o replace one of your
engine's major components with parts
from another engine.
Will a 289 crankshaft fit and work in a
302, or will 351 W heads fit a 302? How
can you identify them if they will? Armed
with this information you can visit the
local junkyard knowing your options
rather than being forced t o purchase for
your specific engine-or having t o play
Russian Roulette with parts.
You need t o know exactly which
engine you have before you order basic
parts or try t o decide what parts will inter-
change with i t . You need t o know t he dis-
placement, year and change level. Change
level is Ford's way of identifying a change
made in the midst of a model year.
IDENTIFICATION
What Engine Do You Have?-To start from
ground zero, 1'11 assume you don' t know
what engine your car is equipped wi t h.
Look at the car's identification tag on the
driver's front-door hinge pillar or on t he
door near the latch for 1967 and prior
models and under the left-front corner of
the windshield for later models. The five-
digit alphanumeric group contains model
year and engine-code information. The
first number is the year-7 for 67, 77 or
87. You have t o know the decade. The
last letter is for the engine. You must use
bot h the year and the engine code t o
determine what engine was installed in
the car. For example, F indicates a 260-2V
or 302-2V. Because they didn' t overlap in
years produced, the letter F was reused.
The letter codes are indicated in the table.
CODE
L
ENGI NE
22 1 - 2v
Boss 302
302-2V
COMMENTS
Same as 302-2V code
Premi um fuel engine
Mechanical camshaft
Uni que heads and i nt ake mani f ol d
Standard passenger car engine
Taxi or pol i ce
Premi um fuel engine
'72 and u p Bronco, '69 and up pi ckup t r uck
Boss 302 also uses G
Same code as 351C
If your engine is ori gi nal equi pment you can i dent i f y it b y t he code on t he vehi cl e-i denti fi cati on
tag on t he l ef t - f r ont door-l at ch face or hinge pi l l ar f or 1967 and earlier models, or on t he t op of t he
i nst rument panel at t he far l ef t side. Cross-reference t hi s code t o t he accompanyi ng list. Drawings
courtesy Ford.
Suffixes W and C indicate the city in
which t he engines are manufactured-
Windsor and Cleveland 2V means a two-
barrel carburetor. 4V means a 4-barrel
carburetor. If your engine is a Cleveland
you need another book, because I am not
talking about how t o rebuild Cleveland
engines.
3 5 1 W and 351 C engines have t he same
codes, so you'll have t o know how t o tell
them apart. The major difference is
cylinder-head design. 351 W heads are
smaller than the 3 51 C. Because you won't
1968
and l at er
1967 and
PRI OR MODELS
(1st digit) (5th digit)
3
Parts Identification
and Interchange
HP289 is truly a high-performance engine producing 271
HP at 6000 RPM. It is characterized by its solid-lifter valve
train, free-flowing exhaust manifolds, dual-point centrifugal-
advance-only distributor and highstrength nodular-iron
crankshaft and main-bearing caps. Photo courtesy Ford.
It's a real money-saver to know what
parts can be interchanged, especially
when you need to replace one of your
engine's major components with parts
from another engine.
Will a 289 crankshaft fit and work in a
302, or will 351 W heads fit a 302? How
can you identify them if they will? Armed
with this information you can visit the
local junkyard knowing your options
rather than being forced to purchase for
your specific engine-or having to play
Russian Roulette with parts.
You need to know exactly which
engine you have before you order basic
parts or try to decide what parts will inter-
change with it. You need to know the dis-
placement, year and change level. Change
level is Ford's way of identifying a change
made in the midst of a model year.
CODE
L
F
C
A
K
G
F
0
J
G
H
ENGINE COMMENTS
221-2V
260-2V Same as 302-2V code
289-2V
2894V Premium fuel engine
HP289 Meehan ical camshaft
Boss 302 Unique heads and intake manifold
302-2V Standard passenger car engine
302-2V Taxi or police
302-4V Premium fuel engine
302-2V '72 and up Bronco, '69 and up pickup truck
Boss 302 also uses G
351W Same code as 351 C
IDENTIFICATION
What Engine Do You Have? -To start from
ground zero, I' ll assume you don't know
what engine your car is equipped with .
Look at the car ' s identification tag on the
driver's front-door hinge pillar or on the
door near the latch for 1967 and prior
models and under the left-front corner of
the windshield for later models . The five-
digit alphanumeric group contains model
year and engine-code information . The
first number is the year -7 for 67, 77 or
87. You have to know the decade. The
last letter is for the engine . You must use
both the year and the engine code to
determine what engine was installed in
the car. For example, F indicates a 260-2V
or 302-2V. Because they didn't overlap in
years produced, the letter F was reused .
The letter codes are indicated in the table.
If your engine is original equipment you can identify it by the code on the vehicle-identification
tag on the left-front door-latch face or hinge pillar for 1967 and earlier models, or on the top of the
instrument panel at the far left side. Cross-reference this code to the accompanying list. Drawings
courtesy Ford.
24
Suffixes Wand C indicate the city in
which the engines are manufactured-
Windsor and Cleveland 2V means a two-
barrel carburetor. 4 V means a 4-barrel
carburetor. If your engine is a Cleveland
you need another book, because I am not
talking about how to rebuild Cleveland
engines.
351 Wand 351 C engines have the same
codes , so you'll have to know how to tell
them apart. The major difference is
cylinder-head design . 351 W heads are
smaller than the 351 C. Because you won't
1968
and later
1967 and
PRIOR MODELS
I MODEL YEAR I I I I
BASIC ENGINE CODE NUMBER
ENGINEERING
I DESIGN LEVEL CODE
ENGI NE
YEAR OF ENGI NE CODE NUMBER
PRODUCTI ON B C D E F G H I J K L M R
(1969) MONTH OF E NGI NE - 1 2 3
PRODUCTI ON U N I T S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0
( J ANUARY)
I I I
I
You'll need the information on this tag or decal when ordering parts for your engine.
have one t o compare against the other,
their relative sizes can't be used for iden-
tification. Consequently you need to
know their distinguishing features if the
engine-identification sticker is not on the
air cleaner or there is no air cleaner. The
cylinder-head and exhaust-manifold
mounting surfaces of the two engines are
angled differently. The 351 W exhaust-
manifold surface is closeoto vertical; the
35 1 C surface is angled 45 so it's generally
in line with the side of the cylinder block.
This makes the 351C head wider between
the intake-manifold and exhaust-manifold
mounting surfaces. Those two surfaces
are also parallel. Although the 302 and
Boss - 302 cylinder-block exterior dimen-
sions are the same, their cylinder heads
are as different as the 221 -351 W heads
are different from the 351C. Boss 302
and 351 C heads are quite similar, although
not the same.
Engine Tag or Decal-Once you've deter-
mined which engine you have, youl l also
need to know its date of production,
change level and engine-code number-this
is different from the engine's code letter
on the vehicle identification tag. The
engine-code number used by the Ford
parts man when he's ordering parts is on a
tag or decal attached to the engine. From
January 1964 through February 1973,
tags were mounted at the front of the
engine, usually sandwiched under the coil-
mounting bracket, dipstick-tube bracket
or under the water-temperature sending
unit. Unfortunately, when a tag is removed
for one reason or another, they are usually
discarded rather than being replaced-a
big mistake. Beginning in February 1973,
tags were replaced by decals on the front
of the right valve cover. The sketch shows
how to read a tag or decal.
If an engine's tag or decal is missing, a
couple of alphanumeric groups may be
stamped on the front of the engine block.
The first digit gives you the model year.
For example 6J100358 indicates 1966.
The other group is the engine build-date
You'll find cylinder-head casting numbers under the intake ports and in the rocker-arm area under
the valve cover. I n many cases you'll also find engine displacement (arrows). Additionally, the 302
head indicates its carburetor application because of its unique casting. 4-V heads have smaller com-
bustion chambers for higher compression than the 2- V heads.
code, or the date the engine was manufac- Casting Numbers-When a component
tured. It may look like this: 9A12S. The such as a cylinder head or block is cast, a
first digit 9 is calendar year 1969 and number cast in it is appropriately called a
the second A is the month January. The casting number. Casting numbers are ex-
letter indicates the month starting with A tremely helpful when identifying an engine
for January and continuing through M. I or its parts. Unfortunately, casting num-
is not used. bers are not 100-percent accurate because
MODEL YEAR
''''N' <w.L-:ANG' c""
K7 /CJg)

YEAR OF ENGINE CODE NUMBER
PRODUCTION
(1969) MONTH OF ENGINE
PRODUCTION
(JANUARY)
BASIC ENGINE CODE NUMBER
1
ENGINEERING
DErGN LEVEL CODE
EA301 LO
c 53H
MR
67
ABCDEFGH I J K L
TENS
-
123
S UNITS- 1 2 3 4 5 6 789 0
12
ENGINE { MONTH
BUILD DATE DAY {
You'll need the information on this tag or decal when ordering parts for your engine.
have one to compare against the other ,
their relative sizes can't be used for iden
tification. Consequently you need to
know their distinguishi ng features if the
engine-identification sticker is not on the
air cleaner or there is no air cleaner. The
cylinder-head and exhaust-manifold
mounting surfaces of the two engines are
angled differently. The 351 W exhaust-
manifold surface is close to vertical ; the
351 C surface is angled 45 so it's generally
in line with the side of the cylinder block.
This makes the 351 C head wider between
the intake-manifold and exhaust-manifold
mounting surfaces. Those two surfaces
are also parallel. Although the 302 and
Boss 302 cylinder-block exterior dimen-
sions are the same, their cylinder heads
are as differen t as the 221-351 W heads
are different from the 351 C. Boss 302
and 3,51 C heads are quite similar, although
not the same.
Engine Tag or Decal-Once you've deter-
mined which engine you have, you 11 also
need to know its date of production,
change level and engine-code number-this
is different from the engine's code letter
on the vehicle identification tag. The
engine-code number used by the Ford
parts man when he's ordering parts is on a
tag or decal attached to the engine. From
January 1964 through February 1973,
tags were mounted at the front of the
engine, usually sandwiched under the coil-
mounting bracket, dipstick-tube bracket
or under the water-temperature sending
unit. Unfortunately, when a tag is removed
for one reason or another, they are usually
discarded rather than being replaced-a
big mistake. Beginning in February 1973,
tags were replaced by decals on the front
of the right valve cover. The sketch shows
how to read a tag or decal.
If an engine's tag or decal is missing, a
couple of alphanumeric groups may be
stamped on the front of the engine block.
The first digit gives you the model year.
For example 6Jl00358 indicates 1966.
The other group is the engine build-date
You'll find cylinderhead casting numbers under the intake ports and in the rockerarm area under
the valve cover. I n many cases you'll also find engine displacement (arrows). Additionally, the 302
head indicates its carburetor application because of its unique casting. 4V heads have smaller com-
bustion chambers for higher compression than the 2V heads.
code, or the date the engine was manufac-
tured. It may look like this: 9A 12S. The
first digit 9 is calendar year 1969 and
the second A is the month January. The
letter indicates the month starting with A
for January and continuing through M. I
is not used.
Casting Numbers-When a component
such as a cylinder head or block is cast, a
number cast in it is appropriately called a
casting number. Casting numbers are ex-
tremely helpful when iden tifying an engine
or its parts. Unfortunately, casting num-
bers are not 100-percent accura te because
25
-"
UNDERSTANDING THE PART
NUMBERS ,
' 1.
If you are like most people 'the first
VEHICLE IDENTI FlCATlON CODES
time you cast your eyes on a Ford part)
tiumber,'you probably thought it looked A- Full-size Ford L- Lincoln 58-60
unnecessarily complicated. However, this
first impression i s gradually changed as
6- Bronco 70-73 Mark I I I, IV, V
you understand what al l the numbers and Maverick 75-77 M-Mercury
letters stand for.
I '
Engineering and Service Numbers-At the C- Torino Elite 0- Fairlane 62-68
risk of confusing you, you should first
know that there are two numbers for
D- Falcon 60-69 Torino 69-76
each finished part: the engiheering, Or Maverick 70-74
LTD l l 77 and up
production number and the service num-
L
Granada 75 and up
ber. They are just what they say. The
Q- Fairmont
engineering number i s assigned by engi- E- Pinto S- Thunderbird I
neering when a part i s approved for pro-
duction. This number i s used by the G- Comet 6 1-68 T- Truck c
assembly plants, The service number i s
assigned when the part goes into the part- -
Montego 69-76 U- Zephyr
I
distribution system. It i s a different num- I- Monarch V- Lincoln 61- and up
ber because how a part i s finished and
packaged for service Is different from i t s Versallles Z- Mustang
original production counterpart. It' s the
J- Industrial engines
number used by your Ford parts man to
' : P
look for or order. He doesn't want to know K- Edsel
about the.engineering part number. How- +
ever, you may need to because the engi-
Comet 60-61 and 75 and up
neering number 'io the one appearing on q r . c - I 4
many parts. 4 - - .
'*
Casting Numbers--Casting. numbers- a ; ; -. I% -. 44,. '-? ,
b-. $1
special engineering numbers placed an a
r
. h
casting to assist in identification by the
70s and 'so on. The fallowing number i s appears on the part-great for them and "
plant. They are cast onva Part at the time
the-year in that decade-7. The third digjt, terrible for the guy trying to. identify
of. manufacturing, and ~ R P ~ V only to the
usual'ky a letqr, indicates the car line the, parl.. Also, the number-that appears on al,
bagc casting, One casting can be maxhined
part was originally designed for. Were are casting 'may nat?include the basic casting
.to make slightly different parts, thus mbst of them.
number for the simple reason,that you I
creating several different Parts, and con-
The O designation i s given to 289 engine don't need a nurqber to tell you y0y are (
. seguehtly ~ ~ v a a l different fihished
pakts becansq it i s a direct descendaht of looking i t a block or, an intake manifblg, :
neering- an@ service-part numbers, using'. + . the 223 specifically designed for use in% The number 'generallv .consist$ only of ".
casting nurnb9rs to identify a, Part i s tort
-the Fairlane car. The same applies to ^ the prefix and the suffix, Or MOTE-C .
of like playihg horsbshoes. It doesn't
mh ~ y small-.block Parts. Thd l ast digit,. or For the cylinder heakl,
...
W~uch You're closet but if . letter in the prefix in,this part number Suffix-A p6rt-number suffix gsnerally'r
does count-and i t very well'may be the
indicates the part was released for pro- tells yowhe chan&e,(evel of a part, re@&
only number You have to work with.
-
duct@ by 'the Engiine Division: A i s for less of whether i t i s applied to the casting,
~ i & t i n ~ me Numm-Ford pan ~ u m - chassis, B is for body and E is for engine. the fininshed part or the service ddrt..A:
bers, regardless of whether ,they are engi- ' .Makes sense beguse i t ' s an engine part. . applies, to a part prbduced ES it -was 1
neering or service numbers, always ten- This appli$s to endineering parts, however originally designed, B indicates it Was,;
sist of three distinct g!oups: prefix, basic the dgi t in a'service part,yefers to the car ,changed once, C twice and, right thrqugh
lperr number and suffix:
divj~ion-li! for Ford divisibn, Y for Lin- the alphabet in sequence, excluding rh?
Ettgineerino ., colr+Mercury Pivision ,and other letters, letter I. When the alphabet has been'
Casting - Production Sewid ,
for special parts sych a i X for the extinct , Bone through once, the suffix grobvsb to
Muscle Parts Program. number numbeh n~~mber two letters and starts over as AA, m,. ,
The Basic Part Number-Regdrdjess of . AC and so on. How does a change affect
C7.QL4w0-C C70E-6049:C C70ZS*49-G
whether it's an engineering or a serviCe the other two numbers? A service paw.,
Prefix-The four-digit alphanumeric pre- .part nwber the basic .part nuinber will and i t s number can change independqntly J
fix tells the year the part was rel~ased for be %$he sAm.0. For yarnph, 6049 i s for of-the casting part and its number and m>
production, the car IinO. the part was'',," 811 cylinder lfeads, 6303 i s for c~ankshaits engineering part and 4ts number simply
origimlly released for and by. what Ford and 6010 i s for blocks. The number for b-ecause it comes after these two h the
engineering division (chassis, engihe, body, the casting used for machining these paas scheme of things. Using the $awe re*?
etc.) or in the case of a sereice part, the ' i s different. Referring to the cylinder soning, a finished, or engineering parYepn.
Ford car division the part i s for-Ford or head again, the basic finished part nuin- change independently of the casting, Qut'
Lincoln-Mercury. For example, the above bet i s 6049 whereas i t s casting number not of t he sqrvice Part, A cdting affects-
Part numbers are fof a 289 cylinder head '- is 6090, Because it i s relatively easy to . both the finished and the servic6 pap.
o~iginally released in 1987 as indicated by put a casting number on a part while i t This i s why-the suffixgs of ai l t ~ e e n u n
the first letter-4 far the 6% D for the ., is bei q cast, it's the ca$fing nurqber that*, bers'tarely evetmatch. ct A
J
UNDERSTANDING THE PART
NUMBEflS
If you are like most people the first
time you cast your eyes on a Ford part
number, you probably thought it looked
unnec'essarily complicated. However, this
first impression is gradually changed as
you understand what aU the numbers and
letters stand for .
Engineering and Service Numbers-At the
risk of confusi"ng you,' you should first
know that there are two numbers for
each finished part: the engineering, Or
production number and the service num-
ber. They are just what thllysay. The
engineering number is assigned by engi-
neering when a part is approved for pro-
duction . This number is used by the
assembly plants. The service number is
assigned when the part goes into the part-
distribution system. It is a different num-
ber because how a part is finished and
packaged for service is different from its
original production counterpart : It's the
number used by your Ford parts man to
look for or order. He doesn't want to know
about the engineering part number. How-
ever, you may need to because the engi-
neering number is the one appearing on
many parts.
' Casting Numbers-Casting. numbers are
special engineering numbers placed on a
casting to assist in , identification by the
plant. They are cast on a part at the time
of manufacturing, and apply only to the
basic casting. One casting can be machined
to make slightly different parts, thus
creating several di.fferent parts, and con-
" sequently several different finishedengi-
neering- and service-part numbers. Using
cashng numbers to ' identify a part is sort
of like playing horseshoes. It doesn't
count much when you're close, ,but it
does count-and it very well may be the
only number you have to work with .
' . Dissecting the Numbers-Ford part num-
bers, regardless of whether they are engi-
neering or service numbers, always con-
sist of three distinct groups: prefix, basic
part number and suffix.
Engineering
Casting ProduCtion
number number
Service
nu.mber
C70E-6090-C C70E-6049-C C70Z-6049-G
Prefix-The four-digit alphanumeric, pre-
fix tells the year the part was released for
production, the Gar line the part was
originally released for and by what Ford
engineering division (chaSSis, engine, body,
etc,) or in the case of a service part, the
Ford car division the part is for-Ford or
Lincoln-Mercury. For example, the above
part numbers are for a 289' cylinderhead
originally Jeleased in 1967 as indicated by
the first letter-C for the 60s, D for the
26
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION CODES
A- Full-size Ford
B- Bronco 70-73
Maverick 75-77
C- Torino Elite
D- Falcon 60-69
lVIaverick 70-74
Granada 75 and up
E- Pinto
G- Comet 61-68
Montego 69-76
1- Monarch
Versai lles
J- I ndustrial engines
K- Edsel
Comet 60-61 and 75 and up
70s and so on , The following number is
the year in that decade-7, The third digit,
usually a letter, indicates the car line the
part was originally designed for. Here are '
most of them.
The 0 designation is given to 289 engine
parts because it is a direct descendant of
the 221 specifically designed for use in
the Fairlane car, The same applies to
many small-block parts. The last digit, .or
letter in the prefix in this part number
indicates the part was released for pro-
duction by the Engine Division: A is for
chassis, B is for body and E is for engine.
Makes sense because it's an engine part,
This applies to engineering parts, however
the digit in a service part refers to the car
divi.sion-Z for Ford division, Y for Lin-
coin-Mercury Division and other letters
for special parts such as Xfor the extinct
Muscle Parts Program, .
The Basic Part Number-Regardless of
whether it's an engineering or a service
part number the basic part number will '
be the same. For example, 6049 is for
all cylinder heads, 6303 is for crankshafts
and 6()10 is for blocks. The number for
the casting used for machining these parts
. is different. Referring to the cylinder
head again, the basic finished part num-
ber is 6049 whereas its casting number
is 6090. Because it is relatively easy to
put a casting number on a part while it
" is being cast, it's the c a s ~ i n g number that
L- Lincoln 58-60
Mark III, IV, V
M-lVIercury
0- Fairlane 62-68
Torino 69-76
LTD II 77 and up
Q- Fairmont
S- Thunderbird
T - Truck
U- Zephyr
V- Lincoln 61- and up
Z- Mustang
appears on the part-great for them and
terrible for the guy vying to identify a
part. Also, the number ,that appears on a
casting may not in.clude the basic casting
number for the simple reason that you
don't need a number to tell you you are
looking at a block or an intake manifold.
The number generally consists only of
the prefix and the suffix, or C70E-C
for the cylinder head .
Suffix-A part-number suffix generally
tells you the change level of a part, regard-
less of whether it is applied to the casting, .
the fin'inshed part or the service part . A
applies to a part produced as it was
originally designed, B indicates it was
changed once, Ctwice and right through '
the alphabet in sequence, excluding the
letter 1. When the alphabet has been
gone through once, the s'uftix grows to
two letters and starts , over as AA, AB,
AC and so on. How does a change affect
the other two numbers? A service part
and its number can change independently
of the casting part and its number and the
engineering part and its numbe'r simply
because it comes after these two in the
scheme of things . Usin.g the same rea-
soning,a finished, or engineering part can
change independently of the casting, but
not of the service part. A ca'S!ing affects
both the finished and the service parts.
This is why the suffixes of a(1 three num-
bers rarely ever match.
castings are frequently machined differ-
ently, thus generating different parts. This
also generates different part numbers
which don' t appear on the part! To make
matters worse,it is conceivable these parts
won' t interchange. Consequently, a part's
casting number in conjunction with its
physical design must be used t o identify
i t . So let's get on with the physical make-
up of t he various engines and their parts.
BLOCKS
221 and 260 CID-These blocks are
virtually the same except being cast
differently to provide different bore
sizes-3.50 in. versus 3. 80 in. Due t o their
"thn-wall" design, the 221 cannot be
bored t o accept 260 pistons, nor t he 260
t o accept 289 pistons. The major differ-
ences in t he 221 -260 CID engine series
are between those produced prior t o and
after February ' 63. Early engine-mount
bosses and their holes are 6 inches
between centers; later ones were in-
creased t o 7 inches. If you don' t feel
like measuring, early 221 and 260 blocks
had 2 freeze, or core plugs per side. A
'
third one was added when the engine
mounts were widened. If you can' t find
the block with the same engine-mount
spacing you can make the other one work
simply by substituting engine mount s. To
identify the engines by casting number
use the accompanying chart . You'll find
numbers on 221 engines at the rear of
the block under the intake manifold. All
others are located under the right cylin-
der bank at the rear.
289 CID-A new casting was required t o
increase the Ford small-block t o an even
4.00-in. bore t o obtain 289 cubic inches
while maintaining the 2.87-in. stroke of
the 221 and 260 engines. Like the 221
and 260 engines, early 289s up t o mid-
August '64-used a five-bolt bellhousing
pattern. It was then changed t o accept a
larger six-bolt bellhousing. Watch this
when loolung for a 289 block. The bell-
housings are not interchangeable. You'll
find the casting numbers at the rear
of the right cylinder bank. Beginning with
the 289, the engine displacement is cast
in the block between the lifter bores for
easier identification.
HP289-This block is similar t o the stan-
dard 289 block with one major excep-
tion. The main-bearing caps are much
beefier and are cast from high-nodular
iron. If you want a small-block with a
tough bottom end this is the one t o l ook
for. The problem is they are rare and ex-
pensive. This brings up an important
point. When purchasing an engine block
make sure you get its main-bearing caps
and bolts too. Particularly the caps. This
avoids the necessary and expensive line
boring job required when installing dif-
ferent bearing caps on a block. The HP
289 was color coded with an orange paint
swatch on the rear face of block, or in
front of the flywheel or flexplate t o dis-
tinguish it from t he standard 289 block.
302 CID-The 302 block is basically the
same as the 289 block. They are fully
interchangeable except they will not fit
t he five-bolt bellhousing of the early 289.
You do have t o bolt your engine t o a
transmission. Identifying a 302 is t he
same as a 289. Its casting number is at
the back side of the right cylinder bank
and 302 is cast between the lifter bores.
Boss 302-There are t wo major differences
between this engne and standard 2891
302 blocks. The Boss 302 has four-bolt
main-bearing caps, making its bot t om
end very strong. Its cylinder walls are
slightly thicker.
first 302 engines produced Overlaid early and late engine-plate outlines
in 1969-with C9ZE casting number-had illustrate difference between the pre '65-112
a severe ~y l i n d e ~- ~a l l - c ~a c k i n g problem.
5-bolt and later 6-bolt bellhousing patterns.
6 BOLT
Boss 302 4-bolt main-bearing caps make the bottom end of this engine the strongest one in the small-
block family. The screw-in core plugs (arrow) are further indication of its racing heritage.
The fastest way t o correct the problem
was to put the racing Boss 302 into
production-casting C8FE-with slightly
thicker and ribbed cylinder walls. It was
an expensive proposition for Ford, but
not what it would've been had they
waited for a production fix t o be incor-
porated and then have to replace many of
the engines produced up t o t he fix. The
1970 model-year casting-DOZE-incor-
porated these fixes. A Boss 302 engine
was released for 1971 production, how-
ever Ford' s sudden and unexpected dis-
association with anything having t o do
with high performance stopped t he Boss
302 in its tracks at the end of the 1970
model year. The only thing left of this
engine is block casting Dl ZE, the service
block for all Boss 302s. These blocks can
be identified by their casting numbers on
the right cylinder-wall bank.
One minor exterior difference between
the Boss 302 block and the others is they
use six screw-in plugs t o close the core
holes in the sides of t he block rather than
the sheet-metal, cup-type plugs.
castings are frequently machined differ-
ently, thus generating different parts. This
also generates different part numbers
which don't appear on the part! To make
matters worse, it is conceivable these parts
won't interchange. Consequently, a part's
casting number in conjunction with its
physical design must be used to identify
it. So let's get on with the physical make-
up of the various engines and their parts.
BLOCKS
221 and 260 CID-These blocks are
virtually the same except being cast
differently to provide different bore
sizes-3.S0 in. versus 3.80 in. Due to their
"thin-wall" design, the 221 cannot be
bored to accept 260 pistons, nor the 260
to accept 289 pistons. The major differ-
ences in the 221-260 cm engine series
are between those produced prior to and
after February '63. Early engine-mount
bosses and their holes are 6 inches
between centers; later ones were in-
creased to 7 inches. If you don't feel
like measuring, early 221 and 260 blocks
had 2 freeze, or core plugs per side. A
third one was added when the engine
mounts were widened. If you can't find
the block with the same engine-mount
spacing you can make the other one work
simply by substituting engine mounts. To
identify the engines by casting number
use the accompanying chart. You'll find
numbers on 221 engines at the rear of
the block under the in take manifold. All
others are located under the right cylin-
der bank at the rear.
289 CID-A new casting was required to
increase the Ford small-block to an even
4.00-in. bore to obtain 289 cubic inches
while maintaining the 2.87-in. stroke of
the 221 and 260 engines. Like the 221
and 260 engines, early 289s up to mid-
August '64-used a five-bolt bellhousing
pattern. It was then changed to accept a
larger six-bolt bellhousing. Watch this
when looking for a 289 block. The bell-
housings are not interchangeable. You'll
find the casting numbers at the rear
of the right cylinder bank. Beginning with
the 289, the engine displacement is cast
in the block between the lifter bores for
easier iden tification.
HP289-This block is similar to the stan-
dard 289 block with one major excep-
tion. The main-bearing caps are much
beefier and are cast from high-nodular
iron. If you want a small-block with a
tough bottom end this is the one to look
for. The problem is they are rare and ex-
pensive. This brings up an important
point. When purchasing an engine block
make sure you get its main-bearing caps
and bolts too. Particularly the caps. This
avoids the necessary and expensive line
boring job required when installing dif-
ferent bearing caps on a block. The HP
289 was color coded with an orange paint
swatch on the rear face of block, or in
front of the flywheel or flexplate to dis-
tinguish it from the standard 289 block.
302 CID-The 302 block is basically the
same as the 289 block. They are fully
interchangeable except they will not fit
the five-bolt bellhousing of the early 289.
You do have to bolt your engine to a
transmission. Identifying a 302 is the
same as a 289. Its casting number is at
the back side of the right cylinder bank
and 302 is cast between the lifter bores.
Boss 302-There are two major differences
between this engine and standard 289/
302 blocks. The Boss 302 has four-bolt
main-bearing caps, making its bottom
end very strong. Its cylinder walls are
slightly thicker.
The first 302 Boss engines produced
in 1969-with C9ZE casting number-had
a severe cylinder-wall-cracking problem.
Overlaid early and late engineplate outlines
illustrate difference between the pre '651/2
5-bolt and later 6bolt bell housing patterns.
Boss 302 4bolt main-bearing caps make the bottom end of this engine the strongest one in the small-
block family. The screw-in core plugs (arrow) are further indication of its racing heritage.
The fastest way to correct the problem
was to put the racing Boss 302 into
production-casting C8FE-with slightly
thicker and ribbed cylinder walls. It was
an expensive proposition for Ford, but
not what it would've been had they
waited for a production fix to be incor-
porated and then have to replace many of
the engines produced up to the fix. The
1970 model-year casting-OOZE-incor-
porated these fixes. A Boss 302 engine
was released for 1971 production, how-
ever Ford's sudden and unexpected dis-
association with anything having to do
with high performance stopped the Boss
302 in its tracks at the end of the 1970
model year. The only thing left of this
engine is block casting D1 ZE, the service
block for all Boss 302s. These blocks can
be identified by their casting numbers on
the right cylinder-wall bank.
One minor exterior difference between
the Boss 302 block and the others is they
use six screw-in plugs to close the core
holes in the sides of the block rather than
the sheet-metal, cup-type plugs.
27
-
CYLINDER-HEAD CASTING NUMBERS & SPECIFICATIONS (BASIC CASTING 6090)
CASTING
ENGI NE NUMBER
CZOE~G
C30E
ENGI NE
221
260
289
HP289
302
Boss 302
351W
1 DECK HEI GHT I
BORE (INCHES) ( (INCHES) COMMENTS
3.50 1 8.206 I 5-bol t bel l hous~nq oattern. 718 tnch between
YEAR
62-63
62-63
CY LINDER-BLOCK CASTING NUMBERS & SPECIFICATIONS (BASIC CASTING 6015)
64
6 3 ~ 6 4
65-67
68
63
64-67
68 70
71-74
75-76
77
78
69
70
69 74
75.77
78
- --
- .
bores; 6 ~nches between motor-mount holes.
2 freeze plugs per slde, castlng no. on top-rear
of block.
7 inches between motor-mount holes, 3
freeze plugs per side, castlng no. under r ~ght -
1 rear cyl ~nder bank.
8.206 I 5-bol t bellhousinq pattern, 9116 ~ n c h between
CASTING
NUMBER
C20E- A. B, C, D, E
C3OE-A
CZOE-F
C30E B
C40E- B
C3AE-F
C30E-E. F
C4AE-C
C5OE-B
C6DE-G
C6OE-C, E
C6OE-M
C70E- A
C70E- B
C70E~C
C7OZ-B
C7ZE-A
C8OE- 0. L, M
C30E
C40E- B
C5OE-A
C5AE-E
C80E- F
C70E-C. G
C8AE-J
C8DE-F
C80E-J, M
C80E- K, L
C9TE~C
DOOE-B
D l TZ- A
OZOE-BA
D50E- GA. -A3A, -A3B
070E- DA
D80E- AB
C9ZE-A
DOZE-A
Dl ZE- A
C90E B. D
DOOE C. G
DOOZ-C
D5TE-EB
D80E- AB
bores. 2 freeze plugs pers1de.6 Inches between
motor-mount holes, casting no. on top-rear of
bl ock.
8.206 7 ~ns. between motor-mount holes. 3 freeze
plugs per slde, castlng no. under r~ght-rear
6-bol t bellhouslng pattern
54.5
54.5
54.5
63
49.2
54.5
53.5
63
58.2
58.2
69
69
63
58
60.4
60.4
69
5-bol t bel l hous~ng pattern, uses t h~cker
than standard mal t - bear ~ng caps, orange
col or code on rear of bl ock.
6-bol t bellhouslng pattern, orange color
COMMENTS
COMBUSTION-
CHAMBER
VOLUME (CC)
45
54.5
I
code on rear of bl ock.
68-69 C80E- A, -B 4.00 8 206 6-bol t bel l hous~ng pattern
C8TE-B
VALVE
DI AMETER (INCHES)
I NTAKEI EXHAUST
1.5911 39
1 5911 39
1.6711.45
1.6711.45
1.6711.45
1.6711.45
1.6711 .45
1.7811 .45
1.7811.45
1.7811 .45
1.7811.45
1.7811.45
2.2311.71
2.1911 71
18411 54
1.8411.54
1 7811.45
73-76 deck he~ght IS 8.229".
1 6-bol t bellhousing pattern.
6-bol t bellhousing pattern.
May be machlned t o accept a ~ r
pump plumbing.
Rail-type rocker arms.
Mach~ned t o accept screw-ln
studs.
Used w ~ t h 4- V engine.
Internal a~r - l nj ect ~on ports.
Common wi t h 351W, uses
stamped-steel rocker arms.
Internal alr-inlectlon ports
Common wl t h 302, uses stamped-
steel rocker arms.
I
I 7 5 Z Y~ AA
1
D2AE~BA
D4AE- DA
75~77 D4AE- AA
I 302
8.209
(
9.480
9.503
9.503
6-bol t bellhousing pattern.
6-bol t bellhouslng pattern
71 -73 deck helght 1s 9.480".
6-bol t bel l hous~nq pattern.
69 C9ZE
CBFE
4.00 8.209 6-bol t bellhousing pattern.
CYLINDER-HEAD CASTING NUMBERS & SPECIFICATIONS (BASIC CASTING 6090)
COMBUSTION- VALVE
ENGINE YEAR CASTING CHAMBER DIAMETER (INCHES)
NUMBER VOLUME (CC) INTAKE/EXHAUST COMMENTS
221 62-63 C20E-A, B, C, D, E 45 1.59/1.39
C30E-A
260 62-63 C20E-F 54,5 1.59/1.39
C30E-B
64 C40EB 54.5 1.67/1.45
289 63-64 C3AE-F 54.5 1.67/1.45
C30E-E, F
C4AE-C
65-67 C5DE-B 54.5 1.67/1.45 .. May be machined to accept ai r
C6DE-G pump plumbing.
C60E-C, E
C60E-M
C70E-A Rail-type rocker arms.
C70E-B
C70E-C
C70Z-B
C7ZE-A
68 C80E-D, L, M 63 1.67/1.45
HP289 63 C30E 49.2 1.67/1.45 Machined to accept screw-in
studs.
64-67 C40E-B 54.5 1 .78/1 .45
C50E-A
C5AE-E
302 6870 C80E-F 53.5 1.78/1 .45 Used with 4-V engine.
C70E-C, G 63
C8AE-J
C8DE-F
C80E-J, M
C80EK, L
C9TE-C 58.2
DOOE-B
71-74 DlTZA
D20E-BA
75-76 D50E-GA, -A3A, -A3B 58.2 1.78/1.45 Internal air-injection ports.
77 DlOE-DA 69 1.78/1.45
78 D80E-AB 69 1.78/1.45 Common with 351W, uses
stamped-steel rocker arms.
Boss 302 69 C9ZE-A 63 2.23/1.71
70 DOZEA 58 2.19/1.71
D1ZE-A
351W 6974 C90EB, D 60.4 1.84/1.54
DOOEC, G
DOOZ-C
75-77 D5TE-EB 60.4 1.84/1.54 Internal air-injection ports.
78 D80E-AB 69 1.78/1.45 Common with 302, uses stamped-
steel rocker arms.
r- CYLINDER-BLOCK CASTING NUMBERS & SPECIFICATIONS (BASIC CASTING 6015)
CASTING DECK HEIGHT
ENGINE YEAR NUMBER BORE (INCHES) (INCHES) COMMENTS
221 62 C20E-G 3.50 8.206 5-bolt bellhousing pattern, 7/8 inch between
C30E bores; 6 inches between motor-mount holes,
2 freeze plugs per side. casting no. on top-rear
of block.
63 C30E-A 7 inches between motor-mount holes, 3
freeze plugs per side, casting no. under right-
rear cy I i nder ba n k.
260 62 OOE-B 3.80 8.206 5-bolt bellhousing pattern, 9/16 inch between
bores, 2 freeze plugs per side, 6 inches between
motor-mount holes, casting no. on top-rear of
block.
63-65 C30E-C 3.80 8.206 7 ins. between motor-mount holes, 3 freeze
C40E-B, -D, -E plugs per side, castmg no. under right-rear
289 6 3 ~ C3AE-N 4.00
cylinder bank.
8.206 5-bolt bell housing pattern.
C40E-C, -F
C4AE
C4DE
65-68 C5AE-E. 4.00 8.206 6-bolt bell housing pattern.
C50E-A
C6AE-C
HP289 63-64 C30E-B 4.00 8.206 5-bolt bellhousmg pattern, uses thicker
C40E-B than standard main-bearing caps, orange
color code on rear of block.
6568 C5AE-E 4.00 8.206 6-bolt bellhousing pattern, orange color
code on rear of block.
302 68-69 C80E-A, -B 4.00 8.206 6-bolt bellhousing pattern.
C8TEB
70-74 C8TE-B 4.00

8.206
.
73-76 deck height is 8.229".
DlTZ-E 6-bolt bellhousing pattern.
Dl0E-AA
D4DE-AA
7477 D4DE-AA 4.00

8,206
6-bolt bellhousing pattern.
75ZY-AA
I Boss 302 69 C9ZE 4.00 8.209 6-bolt bellhousing pattern.
C8FE
70 DOZE-B 4.00 8.209 6-bolt beHhousing pattern.
351W 69-70 C90E-B 4.00 9.480 6-bolt bellhousing pattern.
71-74 D2AE-BA 4.00 9,503
.
71-73 deck height is 9.480".
D4AEDA
7577 D4AE-AA 4.00 9,503 6-bolt bellhousing pattern.
28
rode, lgst counterweight mw be pal-
i s M fDr Brinell hardnesr testing,
Cnstiag numbam IW sbwa md mm paml ng page am EoneFt aeeerding to &a best available information. Usaphyricai dimen-
tion$ to midee firwl psrb iduntifiaabn.
i
-7-
nf$lwr dispkm6M k ~'~ the fi* borcrr E- t a M ala. Irl
a I& on th, l de d the r Mt - r w wlin$it bank ~ul'w5.
33lW-The 351 W engine marks the first placsmnt, main-bearing diameters were
major h g e of the small-block Ford's increased from 2-25 to 3.00 in. These
' m . ,... . .. . . 4 . . ,. - - - - - -
Q~Q)CK. rm a m A:ezgtzt-astance trom
t h ~ center of the crankshaft main=behring
journal% to the cylinder-head gasket sur-
fme-vms raised 1.274 in. to accommo-
date an additional 112-in. stroke. Deck
bight was increased fram 8.206 in. to
9.410 in. The 4.00411. bare w q retained.
To hsmdle the additional bearing load
r d b g from the increased engine dis-
chanps prevent inter&an$ing the 3 5 1 W
with my of the other small blocb. Cast:
ing numbers are located the same as the
I
I
289 and 302 engines. I
cRA.N#Sms
I
One method used to achieve such a
I
light compact engine was to limit the size
of the crmhhaft counterweights inside
the crankcase. Consequently, additional
d
counterweighting had to be provided
outside the crankcase to balance the necting-rod throws are hollowed out for
en#ne. Counterweights were added to the lighter weight. Both operations were
crankshaft damper, or harmonic balancer dropped for the 1970 model year as a
and to the .- flywheel or fleaplate. This cost+salving meamre, consequently the '69
.- . - - . .
makes all small-block For& m t d & crank 1s a better part.
balanced. Other than the hss 302. an- With exception of the 351 W. all main-
omer common cfiatactarisuc ot zil, zbu, ma connecmg-roajoum cuameters are
289, HIP289 and 351W crmwaft s is the the same at 2.2486 in. and 2.1232 in.
material used to produce them-nodular respectively. 351 W crankshaft jownal
iron. One slight dffereace here is the diameters were increased to 3.000 in.
HP289 crank was produced using iron .and 2.31 1 in. respectively. Strokes re-
with higher noduWty. lids simply mained the same 2.87 in. fram the 221
+ran~ln+rrrs in+- a m + r n e . r ~ + n-anLet.af+ i n ~ht ~rr~nh the 790 Wth the Znc) ~ &mGe
&Ae , s ' " ~ CWU U l C V w O U W I I p I U I L U l ~ C ' 11l ULIVYWL "I" '."/. ..a U. IlL" -r-'.u "I."-
keeping with the HP289s stronger d n . increased to an even 3.00 in., its' crwk
.
bearing caps. The Bogs crank goes one step throw was increased 0,065 in. A cr mb
Emmwk on * -- Ir further. It is machineb from forged steel, shaft's throw is the center distance be-
p r t d d # ~ ~ ~ ~ t ~ X o b s k n o e *
d4- b- rm tfre sxtslI)al bat- and the original 1969 eranksh~ft is cross- tween the main- and connecting-rod
~ ~ i s o n t h . f l ~ ~ or flex plate. QriIEed for improved lubrication. Its con- journals, It is k l f the stroke. The 351W
CRANKSHAFT CASTING NUMBERS & SPECIFICATIONS (BASIC CASTING 6303)
JOURNAL DIAMETER INCHES
CASTI NG STROKE CONNECTING
ENGINE YEAR NUMBER (iNCHES) MAIN ROD COMMENTS
221,260,289 62-68 C20Z 2.87 2.2486 2.1232
C30Z
1M
IMA
HP 289 63-67 1M 2.87 2.4286 2.1232 High-nodular cast iron, orange color
code, last counterweight may be pol-
ished for Brinell hardness testing,
letter K stamped on next to last
counterweight.
302 68-69 C8AZ-A 3.00 2.2486 2.1232
2M
70-74 C8AZ-A 3.00 2.2486 2.1232
2M
2MA
75-78 2M 3.00 2.2486 2.1232
2MA
80ss 302 69-70 DOZE-A 3.00 2.2486 2.1232 Forged steel, '69 crank is cross-drilled
7FE-B and throws hollowed .
351W 69-72 3M 3.50 3.0000 2.3110
3C
73-78 3MA 3.50 3.0000 2.3 110
Casti ng numbers listed above and on preceding page are correct according to the best available information. Use physical dimen-
sions to make final part s identification.
Drawi ng illustrates . 275-in. higher deck height
of t he 351W compared t o the 221-302 blocks.
Drawi ng courtesy Ford.
351W-The 351 W engine marks the first
major change of the small-block Ford's
block. The deck height-distance from
the center of the crankshaft main-bearing
journals to the cylinder-head gasket sur-
face-was raised 1.274 in. to accommo-
date an additional 1 /2-in. stroke. Deck
height was increased from 8.206 in. to
9.480 in. The 4.00-in. bore was retained.
To handle the additional bearing load
resulting from the increased engine dis-
Eccentric weight on this crankshaft damper is
part of t he external weight used to balance the
small-block Ford. The rest of the external bal-
ance weight is on the flywheel or flex plate.

Engine displacement is cast between the lifter bores (arrow) and the block casting number is under
a ledge on t he side of the right-rear cylinder bank (arrow).
placement , main-bearing diameters were
increased from 2.25 to 3.00 in. These
changes prevent interchanging the 351 W
with any of the other small blocks. Cast-
ing numbers are located the same as the
289 and 302 engines.
CRANKSHAFTS
One method used to achieve such a
light compact engine was to limit the size
of the crankshaft counterweights inside
the crankcase . Consequently, additional
counterweighting had to be provided
outside the crankcase to balance the
engine . Counterweights were added to the
crankshaft damper, or harmonic balancer
and to the flywheel or flexplate. This
makes all small-block Fords externally
balanced. Other than the Boss 302, an-
other common characteristic of 221,260,
289, HP289 and 351 W crankshafts is the
material used to produce them-nodular
iron. One slight difference here is the
HP289 crank was produced using iron
with higher nodularity. This simply
t ranslates into a stronger crankshaft, in
keeping with the HP289s stronger main-
bearing caps. The Boss crank goes one step
further. It is machined from forged steel,
and the original 1969 crankshaft is cross-
drilled for improved lubrication, Its con-
necting-rod throws are hollowed out for
lighter weight. Both operations were
dropped for the 1970 model year as a
cost-saving measure, consequently the '69
crank is a better part.
With exception of the 351 W, all main-
and connecting-rod-journal diameters are
the same at 2.2486 in. and 2.1232 in.
respectively. 351 W crankshaft journal
diameters were increased to 3.000 in.
and 2.311 in. respectively. Strokes re-
mained the same 2.87 in. from the 221
through the 289. With the 302s stroke
increased to an even 3.00 in., its crank
throw was increased 0.065 in. A crank-
shaft's throw is the center distance be-
tween the main- and connecting-rod
journals. It is half the stroke . The 351 W
29
You'll find the crankshaft casting number on 318-in. rod bolts and spot-faced seats make Boss 302 connecting rods much stronger than standard
the side of the front throw. 2M indicates this 5116-in. bolted broached-seat rod at right. The HP289 rods use the larger bolts, but rodsare broached.
is a 302 crankshaft.
achieved its additional displacement by a
114-inch throw increase, giving a 3 .SO-in.
stroke. A concurrent 1.274-in. increase in
the 351Ws block deck height accommo-
dated longer rods and pistons with more
compression height.
Crankshaft Replacement-If your connect-
ing rods and pistons appear to be in good
shape, but your crank can't be reused,
you'll have to replace it with a crank
having the same stroke and journal dia-
meters as the one originally installed in
your engine. If your engine displaces 221,
260 or 289 cubic inches you can use a
crank from any of these engines because
Compession height of a 351W piston is 0.136 in. higher than a 302 piston. A 351W piston installed
they have the same stroke and journal
in a 302 block will protrude above the gasket surface.
sizes. Not so with the 302. Boss 302 or
351W engines. A 302 crank has t o be
replaced by another 302 crank. Likewise
with the 351W.
CONNECTING RODS
All 221, 260 and 289 engines use iden-
tical forged-steel connecting rods. Center-
to-center length, as indicated in the chart
is 5.1 55 in. This length is the distance
between a connecting rod's wrist-pin and
bearing-bore centers. These rods use 511 6-
in. bolts and nuts to retain the caps. The
standard 302 rod was shortened t o 5.090
in. so the cylinder-block deck height could
be maintained while increasing crankshaft
stroke. The 302 retains the 5116-in. bolts
with one exception. A special heavy-duty
rod was fitted with 318-in. bolts and nuts-
C90Z-6200-B- but these are no longer
available as replacement parts. So few
were manufactured that you might as
well forget them.
The Boss 302 rod is unique in that it
retains the 5.1 55-in. center-to-center
length of the previous small blocks. Deck-
height clearance is maintained by reducing
piston compression height-the distance
from the center of the wrist-pin bore to
the top of the piston. Boss 302 and HP289
connecting rods have something in
common other than their center-to-center
lengths. Both use 318-inch bolts. The one
difference between them is how they are
machined under the bolt heads. The
These 302 pistons illustrate changes in compression ratios and clearance volumes over the years.
Left to right, the '68-'72 piston is slightly dished whereas the '73-'76 piston is more so, resulting
in a one-point lower compression ratio with the same cylinder head. The 3021351W cylinder head
with its large combustion chamber requires a flat-top piston to achieve an 8:1 compression ratio.
HP289 rod is broached like the conven-
tional rods whereas the Boss 302 rods are
spot-faced. This makes the Boss rod slight-
ly stronger because of less stress concen-
tration on the inboard side of the bolt-
head seat. So, if your are building an
engine you plan to operate in excess of
6,000 RPM, consider using these rods.
The HP289 rod-C30Z-6200-C-has been
replaced for service by the Boss rod-
C9ZZ-6200-B. There are, however, two
problems with using these rods. First,
they cost over $50 each! This is too steep
unless you're building an all-out racing
engine. Then it's just steep. The other
problem is they are rare and consequently
are hard t o find.
Ford hgh-performance parts are
extremely hard t o find and they are very
expensive.
Not only was the 351W block and
crankshaft changed extensively, so were
its connecting rods. They were increased
in length to 5.956-in. The big-end dia-
meter is maintained, however the bearing
inserts are thinner to accommodate the
larger 2.3 1 1-in. crankshaft journals. Like
its crankshaft, the only place you can use
351W rods is in a 351W block. The 351W
rod also uses the 318-inch bolts.
You'll find the crankshaft casting number on
the side of the front throw. 2M indicates this
is a 302 crankshaft.
achieved its additional displacement by a
1/4inch throw increase, giving a 3 .50-in.
stroke. A concurrent 1.274-in. increase in
the 351 Ws block deck height accommo-
dated longer rods and pistons with more
compression height.
Crankshaft Replacement-If your connect-
ing rods and pistons appear to be in good
shape , but your crank can't be reused,
you'll have to replace it with a crank
having the same stroke and journal dia-
meters as the one originally installed in
your engine. If your engine displaces 221,
260 or 289 cubic inches you can use a
crank from any of these engines because
they all have the same stroke and journal
sizes. Not so with the 302, Boss 302 or
351 W engines. A 302 crank has to be
replaced by another 302 crank. Likewise
with the 351W.
CONNECTING RODS
All 221,260 and 289 engines use iden-
tical forged-steel connecting rods. Center-
to-center length, as indicated in the chart
is 5.155 in. This length is the distance
between a connecting rod's wrist-pin and
bearing-bore cen ters. These rods use 5/16-
in. bolts and nuts to retain the caps. The
standard 302 rod was shortened to 5.090
in. so the cylinder-block deck height could
be maintained while increasing crankshaft
stroke. The 302 retains the 5/16-in. bolts
with one exception. A special heavy-duty
rod was fitted with 3/8-in. bolts and nuts-
C90Z-6200-B- but these are no longer
available as replacement parts. So few
were manufactured that you might as
well forget them.
The Boss 302 rod is unique in that it
retains the 5.155-in . center-to-center
length of the previous small blocks. Deck-
height clearance is maintained by reducing
piston compression height-the distance
from the center of the wrist-pin bore to
the top of the piston. Boss 302 and HP289
connecting rods have something in
common other than their cen ter-to-center
lengths. Both use 3/8-inch bolts. The one
difference between them is how they are
machined under the bolt heads. The
30
3/8-in. rod bolts and spot-faced seats make Boss 302 connecting rods much stronger than standard
5/16-in. bolted broached-seat rod at right. The HP289 rods use the larger bolts, but rods are broached.
Compession height of a 351W piston is 0.136 in. higher than a 302 piston. A 351W piston installed
in a 302 block will protrude above the gasket surface.
These 302 pistons illustrate changes in compression ratios and clearance volumes over the years.
Left to right, the '68-'72 piston is slightly dished whereas the '73-'76 piston is more so, resulting
in a one-point lower compression ratio with the same cylinder head. The 302/351W cylinder head
with its large combustion chamber requires a flat-top piston to achieve an 8:1 compression ratio.
HP289 rod is broached like the conven-
tional rods whereas the Boss 302 rods are
spot-faced. This makes the Boss rod slight-
ly stronger because of less stress concen-
tration on the inboard side of the bolt-
head seat. So, if your are building an
engine you plan to operate in excess of
6,000 RPM, consider using these rods.
The HP289 rod-C30Z-6200-C-has been
replaced for service by the Boss rod-
C9ZZ-6200-B. There are, however, two
problems with using these rods. First ,
they cost over $50 each! This is too steep
unless you're building an all-out racing
engine. Then it's just steep. The other
problem is they are rare and consequently
are hard to find .
Ford high-performance parts are
extremely hard to find and they are very
expensive.
Not only was the 351 W block and
crankshaft changed extensively, so were
its connecting rods. They were increased
in length to 5.956-in. The big-end dia-
meter is maintained, however the bearing
inserts are thinner to accommodate the
larger 2.311-in. crankshaft jou rnals. Like
its crankshaft , the only place you can use
351W rods is in a 351W block. The 351W
rod also uses the 3/8-inch bolts.
PISTONS
Cast-aluminum pistons with internal
steel reinforcing struts are used except in
t he Boss 302, which has forged-aluminum
pistons. The biggest differences between
the various pistons are dimensions t o
match a particular bore size and t o be
compatible with crankshaft stroke, block
deck height and connecting-rod length.
A flat-top type piston with no valve
reliefs was used in the 221 engine. Valve
reliefs are cut-outs in the t op of a piston
t o provide clearance for the valves when
t he piston is closest t o the open valves
near the t op of its stroke. Adome, pop-up
or raised portion on the t op of a piston is
used t o increase an engine's compression
ratio and a dish or cut out is t o reduce i t .
The 221 piston had an extra groove, or
heat dam above the t op compression-ring
groove t o help shield t he t op compression
ring from the hot combustion-chamber
gases. This groove was dropped during the
1962 model year as it was found t o be
unnecessary.
Looking at the ot her pistons, t he lower
compression two-barrel-carburetor version
of the 289 and all 302 and 2-V 351 W use
pistons with cut out s. Others use flat-top
pistons with valve reliefs except for the
221 and Boss 302. The Boss 302 is unique
because its t op is domed and has valve
Crankshaft throw, connecting-rod length and piston compression height must add up to no more
reliefs.
than a block's deck height, otherwise serious engine damage will result. When interchanging parts,
A special word about t he Boss 302
use these figures t o make sure there is sufficient deck-height clearance.
pistons. If you are rebuilding one of these
engines and have to replace the pistons
because of reboring, replace them with
TRW forged pistons, L2324F or the later
Ford service piston, DOZZ-6108-A. Even
though the production Boss 302 units
were forged, their skirts had a cracking
problem. This applies t o the early service
(replacement) pistons also. So, even if
you don' t have t o install oversize pistons,
check yours closely for cracked skirts.
Dimensions are i n inches.
Replace any cracked pistons. "Includes HP289.
(COMPRESSI ON
(CONNECT1 NG- ROD
D ( DECK HEI GHT)
CRANKSHAFT, ROD AND PISTON
MATCHING
What if you are replacing your connect-
ing rods, pistons and crankshaft with those
from another engine? Some interchanging
between the 302 and the earlier small
blocks is possible, but not the 351W
because it has larger main-bearingjournals.
To do any interchanging, you must be
aware of the basics. Otherwise, you can
A high-performance Boss 302 piston on the left
right. Boss 302 piston has a dome or pop up to
just as the '77 351W piston is dished t o increase
: and a standard 351W low-compression piston on the
reduce clearance volume for increased compression-
i t.
PISTONS
Cast-aluminum pistons with internal
steel reinforcing struts are used except in
the Boss 302, which has forged-aluminum
pistons. The biggest differences between
the various pistons are dimensions to
match a particular bore size and to be
compatible with crankshaft stroke, block
deck height and connecting-rod length.
A flat-top type piston with no valve
reliefs was used in the 221 engine. Valve
reliefs are cut-outs in the top of a piston
to provide clearance for the valves when
the piston is closest to the open valves
near the top of its stroke. Adame, pop-up
or raised portion on the top of a piston is
used to increase an engine's compression
ratio and a dish or cutout is to reduce it.
The 221 piston had an extra groove, or
heat dam above the top compression-ring
groove to help shield the top compression
ring from the hot combustion-chamber
gases. This groove was dropped during the
1962 model year as it was found to be
unnecessary.
Looking at the other pistons, the lower
compression two-barrel-carburetor version
of the 289 and all 302 and 2-V 351 W use
pistons with cutouts. Others use flat-top
pistons with valve reliefs except for the
221 and Boss 302. The Boss 302 is unique
because its top is domed and has valve
reliefs.
A special word about the Boss 302
pistons. If you are rebuilding one of these
engines and have to replace the pistons
because of reboring, replace them with
TRW forged pistons, L2324F or the later
Ford service piston, DOZZ-6108-A. Even
though the production Boss 302 units
were forged, their skirts had a cracking
problem. This applies to the early service
(replacement) pistons also. So, even if
you don't have to install oversize pistons,
check yours closely for cracked skirts.
Replace any cracked pistons.
ld (DECK-HEIGHT
! CLEARANCE)

o
HEIGHT)
L
(CONN ECTI NG-ROD
LENGTH)
T(CRANK
t THROW)
(STROKE) S
,
Crankshaft throw, connecting-rod length and piston compression height must add up to no more
than a block's deck height, otherwise serious engine damage will result. When interchanging parts,
use these figures to make sure there is sufficient deck-height clearance.
68-72
221-289* 302
D 8.206 8.206
d 0.016 0.016
H 1.600 1.600
L 5.155 5.090
T 1.435 1.500
Dimensions are in inches.
*Includes HP289.
73-76
302
8.229
0.034
1.605
5.090
1.500
77-78 Boss 69-72 73-76 77-78
302 302 351W. 351W 351W
8.206 8.209 9.480 9.503 9.503
0.0005 0.021 0.035 0.028 0.0145
1.616 1.529 1.739 1.769 1.782
5.090 5.155 5.956 5.956 5.956
1.500 1.500 1.750 1.750 1.750
CRANKSHAFT, ROD AND PISTON
MATCHING
A high-performance Boss 302 piston on the left and a standard 351W low-compression piston on the
right. Boss 302 piston has a dome or pop up to reduce clearance volume for increased compression-
just as the '77 351 W piston is dished to increase it.
What if you are replacing your connect-
ing rods, pistons and crankshaft with those
from another engine? Some interchanging
between the 302 and the earlier small
blocks is possible, but not the 351 W
because it has larger main-bearingjournals.
To do any interchanging, you must be
aware of the basics. Otherwise, you can
31
get into expensive trouble. For instance,
crankshaft throw, connecting-rod center-
to-center length, piston compression
height and deck-height clearance must be
compatible with the block's deck height.
For a given stroke crankshaft, a longer
rod will cause a given piston t o operate
higher in its bore. Installing a shorter con-
necting rod causes the same piston t o
operate lower in the same bore with the
same crankshaft. This also applies to piston
compression height. As compression
height is increased-the wrist-pin bore is
moved down in relation t o the piston top-
the top of the piston will operate higher
in the cylinder bore. Reducing compres-
sion height moves it down. The last item,
deck-height clearance, is simply how far
short a piston at TDC is from coming
even with a block's deck or gasket surface.
This clearance is necessary to prevent a
piston from hitting the cylinder head.
The question now becomes, "How does
all this relate to swapping parts?"
The sum of the crankshaft throw,
connecting-rod length, piston compression
height and deck-height clearance must
not exceed a block's deck height, other-
wise serious engine damage will result.
This is particularly true if i t is exceeded
by more than the specified deck-height
clearance. In this case the piston will
come higher than the deck surface and
impact against the cylinder head. On the
other hand, if this sum is less, you'll have
a very underpowered engine because its
compression ratio will be low.
There are also other limitations to con-
sider when swapping bottom-end com-
ponents. A 302 crankshaft cannot be
installed in a 221 even though the num-
bers add up right: the bottom of the 221
pistons will hit the connecting rods. 221
pistons are the only ones that can possi-
bly work because of the 221s bore size.
Oddly enough a similar situation exists
with the 289 even though the 302 and
289 bores and piston compression heights
are the same. 289 piston skirts will hit a
302s crankshaft counterbalances because
289 piston skirts are longer than a 302s.
Consequently, 302 rods and pistons must
be used when installing a 302 crank in a
289 block. This interchange of parts
makes a 302 out of a 289. Since 1978,
Ford service pistons for the 289-2V and
'68-'72 302s are interchangeable.
One final and vital factor you must
consider when changing bottom-end
components is balance. Pistons, connect-
ing rods, crankshaft and crankshaft
damper and flywheel are matched for
proper engine balance. Consequently, t o
ensure you'll end up with a balanced
engine, particularly if the crankshaft and
rods are changed, the complete assembly
should be checked for balance. Many
engine machine shops are equipped t o do
this.
CYLINDER HEADS
Cylinder-head interchangeability gets
very confusing, but not because the heads
are so different-except for the Boss 302
heads which are radically different from
all the others. Detail changes made to the
heads over the years prevent interchanging
heads in many instances. Another factor
contributing to the cylinder-head-com-
plexity problem is government emission
standards and the design changes which
have been made to meet these standards.
All small-block heads will bolt on all small-
block engines, but this does not mean
they'll all work. Some will and some won't.
Cylinder-head Basics-To interchange
cylinder heads you'll have to understand
some cylinder-head basics. Let's start
with compression ratio and how it is fig-
ured. As a cylinder's piston travels from
BDC t o TDC it sweeps through or dis-
places a volume called swept volume
(S.V.) With the piston at TDC, the volume
above it is called clearance volunze (C.V.).
Clearance volume includes the combus-
tion-chamber volume in the cylinder head,
volume created by the head gasket spacing
the head above the block deck surface,
additional volume created by piston deck-
height clearance and the shape of the pis-
ton top. A concave or dished piston adds
t o the clearance volume. A convex or pop-
up piston will reduce it. Of these four
factors, cylinder-head combustion-charn-
ber volume is the biggest contributor to
an engine's clearance volume.
A cylinder's compression ratio is dir-
ectly proportional to its clearance volume
and its swept volume or displacement:
Compression Ratio
- - Swept Volume +
Clearance Volume
CRANKSHAF
Compression ratio is determined by its swept
volume and clearance volume. Swept volume is
the volume an engine's piston displaces in its
travel from TDC to BDC. I t is also an engine's
displacement divided by its number of pistons.
Volume above a piston at TDC is clearanoe
volume.
The compression ratio formula says
that as an engine's displacement is in-
creased, so must its clearance volume in-
crease t o maintain the same compression
ratio. This is a very important consider-
ation when interchanging cylinder heads,
particularly these days when gasoline
octane ratings have fallen like the value of
the dollar. If you end up with a compres-
sion much over 9: 1 you're going t o have a
difficult time finding fuel with a high
enough octane rating to avoid detonation.
If detonation is severe, engine damage will
surely result. To see exactly what I mean,
let's take a look at a couple of examples
get into expensive trouble. For instance,
crankshaft throw, connecting-rod center-
to-center length, piston compression
height and deck-height clearance must be
compatible with the block's deck height.
For a given stroke crankshaft, a longer
rod will cause a given piston to operate
higher in its bore. Installing a shorter con-
necting rod causes the same piston to
operate lower in the same bore with the
same crankshaft. This also applies to piston
compression height. As compression
height is increased-the wrist-pin bore is
moved down in relation to the piston top-
the top of the piston will operate higher
in the cylinder bore. Reducing compres-
sion height moves it down. The last item,
deck-height clearance, is simply how far
short a piston at TDC is from coming
even with a block's deck or gasket surface.
This clearance is necessary to prevent a
piston from hitting the cylinder head.
The question now becomes, "How does
all this relate to swapping parts?"
The sum of the crankshaft throw,
connecting-rod length, piston compression
height and deck-height clearance must
not exceed a block's deck height, other-
wise serious engine damage will result.
This is particularly true if it is exceeded
by more than the specified deck-height
clearance. In this case the piston will
come higher than the deck surface and
impact against the cylinder head. On the
other hand, if this sum is less, you'll have
a very underpowered engine because its
compression ratio will be low.
There are also other limitations to con-
sider when swapping bottom-end com-
ponents. A 302 crankshaft cannot be
installed in a 221 even though the num-
bers add up right : the bottom of the 221
pistons will hit the connecting rods. 221
pistons are the only ones that can possi-
bly work because of the 221 s bore size.
Oddly enough a similar situation exists
with the 289 even though the 302 and
289 bores and piston compression heights
are the same. 289 piston skirts will hit a
302s crankshaft counterbalances because
289 piston skirts are longer than a 302s.
Consequently , 302 rods and pistons must
be used when installing a 302 crank in a
289 block. This interchange of parts
makes a 302 out of a 289. Since 1978,
Ford service pistons for the 289-2V and
'68-'72 302s are interchangeable .
One final and vital factor you must
consider when changing bottom-end
components is balance. Pistons, connect-
ing rods, crankshaft and crankshaft
damper and flywheel are matched for
proper engine balance. Consequently, to
ensure you'll end up with a balanced
engine, particularly if the crankshaft and
rods are changed, the complete assembly
should be checked for balance. Many
engine machine shops are equipped to do
this.
32
With some exceptions, small-block Fords have
been characterized by their ball-type rocker-
arm piV01S. Photo courtesy Ford.
CYLINDER HEADS
Cylinder-head interchangeability gets
very confusing, but not because the heads
are so different-except for the Boss 302
heads which are radically different from
all the others. Detail changes made to the
heads over the years prevent interchanging
heads in many instances. Another factor
con tributing to the cylinder-head-com-
plexity problem is government emission
standards and the design changes which
have been made to meet these standards.
All small-block heads will bolt on all small-
block engines, but this does not mean
they'll all work. Some will and some won' t.
Cylinder-head Basics-To interchange '
cylinder heads you'll have to understand
some cylinder-head basics. Let's start
with compression ratio and how it is fig-
ured. As a cylinder's piston travels from
BDC to TDC it sweeps through or dis-
places a volume called swept volume
(S.v.) With the piston at TDC, the volume
above it is called clearance volume (C.V.).
Clearance volume includes the combus-
tion-chamber volume in the cylinder head,
volume created by the head gasket spacing
the head above the block deck surface,
additional volume created by piston deck-
height clearance and the shape of the pis-
ton top, A concave or dished piston adds
to the clearance volume. A convex or pop-
up piston will reduce it. Of these four
factors, cylinder-head combustion-cham-
ber volume is the biggest contributor to
an engine's clearance volume.
A cylinder's compression ratio is dir-
ectly proportional to its clearance volume
and its swept volume or displacement:
Compression Ratio
Swept Volume +
Clearance Volume
' HOCKER-ARM DESIGN
The ball rocker-arm fulcrum or pivot
allows the rocker arms a ,higher degree of
freedom than required to operate , the
valves. The rocker can pivot and rotate in
all directions within limitations. To keep
the rocker in contact with the valve
Ford has used several different ways of
restricting rocker movement.
Pushrod-guided-The original method
stabilized the rocker arms by guiding the
push rods through close-'tolerance rectan-
gular holes in the cylinder head. These
kept the rockers from m_oving sideways.
The radiused tip of the rocker arm has a
rolling movement against the valve tip as .
it operates the valve.
Compression ratio is determined by its swept
volume and clearance volume. Swept volume is
the volume an engine's piston displaces in its
travel from TDC to BDC. It is also an engine's
displacement divided by its number of pistons.
Volume above a piston at TDe is clearanoe
volume.
The compression ratio formula says
that as an engine's displacement is in-
creased, so must its clearance volume in-
crease to maintain the same compression
ratio. This is a very important consider-
ation when interchanging cylinder heads,
particularly these days when gasoline
octane ratings have fallen like the value of
the dollar. If you end up with a compres-
sion much over 9: 1 you're going to have a
difficult time finding fuel with a high
enough octane rating to avoid detonation,
If detonation is severe, engine damage will
surely result. To see exactly what I mean,
let's take a look at a couple of examples
Another style of pushrod-guided rocker
arm uses, separate slotted steel plates to
control the push rods , and rocker arms.
The. plates ' are secured to the cylinder
heads Ly clamping them under screw-in
rocker-arm studs. Push rod holes in the
cylinder head are cIIearance holes Which
do no guiding of the push rods.
Valve-stem-guided-Beginning with the
.hydraul ic-lifter version of the 1966-1/2
289 and continuing in all small blocks
through some rail-type rocker arms
are used. HP289s retain the early-style
pushrod-contrQlled rocker arms. Rails cast
into the end of th'e rocker arm straddle
the valve tip. These rails restrict lateral
rocker-arm movement by guiding against
the tip of the valve stem, thus the desig-
nation rail-type. A clearance bole is drilled
in the head casting for the pushrod. The
load of stabilizing the rocker causes valve
stem tips and rocker-arm tips to wear
faster than is the case with pushrod-guided
" rocker arms. Valve guides are also"loaded
laterally, causing them to wear faster
90 to their normal wear. '
As the rocker arm and valve-stem tip
wears, the rails get closer to the valve-
spring retainer. There is no Problem until
the rails begin to bear on theretaiher.
This condition can proceed to ,the point
where the keepers re'lease, letting the
, valve drop into its cylinder., Severe in-
ternal engine dllmage is the usual result :
Be aware of the danger of uS,ing worn
valves ' and rail-type rocker arms in your'
rebuilt engine. If the rails are close to the
spring , retainers or are already contacting
them, don't take chances-replace the
arms and valves.
Pivot-guided __ Beginning in 1978, the rail-
type rocker arm was phased out in favor
ofa pivot or fulcrum-guided rocker- arm.
This is the same type used in the Boss
302, Cleveland and oM" engines ; 351C,
351 M and 400M. The stamped-steel rocker
arms pivot on pedestals. The pedestal is a
stand and pivot in one assembly. The pivot
is half a cylinder which is retained to the
heCld with a bolt. The cylinder-type pivot
restricts rocker-arm movement to the
motion required to operate the valve.
There is no stabiliz:ing load on the valve,
resulting in reduced valve-stem, rockeT-
arm and valve-guide wear.
All HP289s and smal'l blocks prior to '65-1/2 used this close-tolerance hole (arrow) to guide the
pushrod and control the rocker arm. The Boss 302 guide plate (arrow) accomplishes essentially the
same thing.
Compared to, the push rod-guided rocker arm, the valve-guided or rail-type.rocker arm is recognizable
by rails straddling the valve-stem tip. This puts an additional load c>1i the valve-stem, tij) and valve
guide. Photos courtesy Ford.
Valve-stem-tip caps (arrow) were introduced to
combat rapid tip wear caused by rail-type
rocker arms. Notice how the rails straddle the
valve tip.
Rail-type rocker arm and ball pivot was phased
out in 1978 in favor of this stamped-steel
rO,cker arm with pedestal pivot.
33
frm the cornpressi~n-ratio chart. The
33XW-tr, otigin1y equipped with a
6 0 . k {cwbic cen-eters) cylinder head,
. ,
Itas an 8.7:l compression d o , and a
221 with its 4Scc h d afso has an 8.3:l
cotlppr- ratia. Interchange heads ao
the Wa and they'll have ccullpres-
&OD. ratios of 10.2:l and 7.1:1, respec-
timly.ht the 221 heads on the 351W4V
~a and the c~lnpr& at i o pa to
13.2: I-patanteed detonation! R w d d
&&ie won't breale properly tlmd power
wiU be lest. In other words, the engine
pm't be able todraw in a sufficient fuel-
dr dmge'on the intake stroke and o m -
pbtely exhaust the burned &- an the
exhaust stroke. On the other hand, if the
valves am too big, particularly the intake
vahra, the vel dt y of the EuelJair charge
m@&g the inlet porn will not be high
,
ems& to keep the fuel mixed with tbe
oit at loar engine RPM. Lean mixtures and
wnema mixture distribution wi l l c a w
&ad type set w r m with thread sealer.
Whim W W hewis, pushrod
.~enw nwo BS &6d to the engine
aad tb ro&w& @pe used. Pwhrod
rtch engine's deck
are too long far
302 en$nes and 221-302
too short for the 351W.
type rocker-am studs and
stafnped-rateel rocker m g require slightly
. Ilswpr pushrods thm% adjustable cast-iron
hd. (maw3 In&@,@ * I t hk71~Wcyl i ndr r bwdkt l whl dpMt f ar ( hC
y-mnHddrd . I t- sy&Wt t . m .h b pra,pIcl into oxhaunt port thwthb hak P
1 INTAKE MANIFOLD VACUUM
: ,W&I ms.
,
frou m y want to change your rail-type
,r@&m*un heads to earlier heads wing
"the mare &able pu9hrod-guided rocker
lirms. This 28 a pn~~t i cal map oa the later
244%aaQ all 30%. I don't recommend it
for a 351W became the d e r valves in Qhde r - hd Evolutkm-Now that I've
' the early badg wi l l reduce performance cowred the Ins and outs of i nt erchanh
'md the smculler combustion dimkrs cylinder bads, let's look at the evo1ution
.a.anglpusfi t b l mp 8 Qi ma t i o out of o f ~ h e a d o b ~ w i t h t h e 2 2 1 i n
dght. bt e r 1978 heads wlfh p h t ided 1962 and conthing through the 302 and
mecker urns w@ bok tlght on in p ce of the 351W.
,durn &sing sail-type meket arms.
k
221-1 -59" and 1.39" intake and exhaust
valves have 03094" and 0.3014" stem
diameters. Rwbr anns m the cast-bn
adjustable type mured to the b d with
press-in studs and guided b St# pi&+
rods. These heads have &e SI R&&
cambu&an.chamber volume at 45cc.
258- MMy the same tw 221 badg ex-
from the compression-ratio chart. The
351 W-2V, originally equipped with a
60Acc (cubic centimeters) cylinder head,
has an 8.7: 1 compression ratio, and a
221 with its 45cc head also has an 8.7:1
compression ratio. Interchange heads on
the two engines and they'll have compres-
sion ratios of 10.2: 1 and 7.1: 1, respec-
tively. Put the 221 heads on the 351W4V
engine and the compression ratio goes to
13.2: I - guaranteed detonation! Reduced
compression causes engine performance
to suffer.
Another factor to consider when
interchanging cylinder heads is valve size.
Heads having valves too little for the
engine won't breathe properly and power
will be lost. In other words, the engine
won't be able to draw in a sufficient fuel-
air charge' on the intake stroke and com-
pletely exhaust the burned charge on the
exhaust stroke. On the other hand, if the
valves are too big, particularly the intake
valves, the velocity of the fuel/air charge
entering the inlet ports will not be high
enough to keep the fuel mixed with the
air at low engine RPM. Lean mixtures and
uneven mixture distribution will cause
sluggish low-speed performance. Don't
install heads with valves much more than
10 percent larger or smaller than the orig-
inal valve size.
Other Considerations-When interchang-
ing heads on '68 and later engines you
have to consider whether they are to be
used with an air pump. If your engine is
air-pump equipped (Thermactor system)
you'll have to install heads which will
accept air-pump plumbing. Air-pump
inlet ports must be plugged if you are
using air-pump heads on an earlier engine
without air injection. A special 1/2-20
plug, C6AZ-6052-A, is the Ford part for
plugging externally manifolded cylinder
heads. You'll need four per head. If these
are not available, use cone-tipped socket-
head type set screws with thread sealer.
When interchanging heads, pushrod
lengths must be matched to the engine
and the rocker-arm type used. Pushrod
length is designed for each engine's deck
height. 351 W pushrods are too long for
221 through 302 engines and 221-302
pushrods are too short for the 351W.
Positive-stop type rocker-arm studs and
stamped-steel rocker arms require slightly
longer pushrods than adjustable cast-iron
rocker arms.
You may want to change your rail-type
rocker-arm heads to earlier heads using
the more durable pushrod-guided r.ocker
arms. This is a practical swap on the later
289s and all 302s. I don't recommend it
for a 351 W because the smaller valves in
the early heads will reduce performance
and the smaller combustion chambers
will push the compression ratio out of
sight. Later 1978 heads with pivot-guided
rocker arms will bolt right on in place of
those using rail-type rocker arms.
34
Large threaded hole (arrow) in the end of this '77 302/351W cylinder head is the inlet port for the
internally-manifolded air-injection system. Fresh air is pumped into exhaust port through this hole
(arrow).
AIR PUMP
302 V-8
INTAKE MANIFOLD VACUUM
"-'"
\
~ \ '
" ~
"\ \ I
"\ -' /
" i/ AIR MANIFOLD
_Jf ASSEMBLY
./
r .
~
\
. TUBE ASSEMBLY EXHAUST
AIR SUPPLY
AIR MANIFOLD
ASSEMBLY
289 V-8 ENGINE
(INTERNALAIR MANIFOLD)
CHECK VALVE
Except for the 289. early air-injection systems are externally manifolded like this 302 system at the
top and right. 289 is internally manifolded with an inlet in the side of the head. All Boss 302 heads
are internally manifolded as are all 302 and 351W heads from 1975 on. Drawing courtesy Ford.
Cylinder-head Evolution-Now that I've
covered the ins and outs of interchanging
cylinder heads, let's look at the evolution
of these heads beginning with the 221 in
1962 and continuing through the 302 and
the 351W.
221-1.59" and 1.39" intake and exhaust
valves have 0.3094" and 0.3014" stem
diameters. Rocker arms are the cast-iron
adjustable type secured to the head with
press-in studs and guided by the push-
rods. These heads have the smallest
combustion-chamber volume at 45cc.
260-Basically the same as 221 heads ex-
I . Before positive-stop rocker arms.
2 . Used wi th stamped-steel rocker arms.
3. Oversize/undersize pushrods available in k0.060-inch lengths.
ENGINE
22 1 -302
302
Boss 302
351 W
A comparison between the original 221-302
pushrods, slightly longer 302 pushrods used
with positive-stop rocker-arm studs and the
much longer 351W pushrod. Use the accom-
panying chart t o determine standard pushrod
length for your engine.
cept 5 4 . 5 ~ ~ combustion chambers. Intake
1.67" and 1.45". Stems increased t o
0.3420" and 0.341 O", respectively.
289-1963 289 heads are the same as the
260, but with the 1.67" and 1.45" valves
and 0.3420" and 0.3410" stems. The 260
shared this head in 1964-65. In February
1964, intake-valve diameter was increased
to 1.78". To decrease compression ratio,
dished pistons were used instead of
changing the combustion-chamber vol-
ume. Beginning in 1966 some cylinder
heads were machined t o accept air-pump
plumbing at each exhaust port , otherwise
heads with or without air pumps are
YEAR
62-69%
69%-77
77-78
69
7 0
69-78%
78%-
identical. 1966-112 marked the end of the
pushrod-guided rocker arms. Rail-type
rocker arms were used through 1968. In
1968, the last year of 289 production,
63cc combustion chambers made the 289
heads common with the new 302V engine.
HP289-This unique cylinder head has
4 9 . 2 ~ ~ combustion chambers and 1. 78"
and 1.45" valves with 0. 3420" and
0.3410" stems. Rocker-arm studs are
threaded i nt o the heads, giving the valve
train a high-RPM capability. In 1964,
combustion-chamber volume was in-
creased to 5 4 . 5 ~ ~ t o make tJ1e basic
castings common with t he standard 289.
Even though the standard 289 changed t o
rail-type rocker arms, pushrod-guided
rocker arms were retained for the W2 8 9 .
302-Two basic cylinder heads were in-
stalled on 302 engines in 1968. One with
63cc combustion-chamber volume is com-
mon with the 1968 289. Another with
5 3 . 5 ~ ~ chambers is installed on the
1968 high-compression 302-4V engines.
These cylinder heads were machined t wo
ways-with and wi t hout air-injection.
Those machined for use with air pumps
are externally manifolded for all years
through 1974; internally manifolded
from 1975 on. Beginning in mid-1968,
non-adjustable positive-stop rocker-arm
studs were installed and two-piece spring
retainers were used. Hardened-steel caps
on the exhaust-valve tips reduce tip wear
caused by side-rail rocker arms. 1969 com-
bustion chambers were reduced t o 5 8 . 2 ~ ~ .
302 and 351W heads are interchange-
able starting with the 1977 model year
with exception of the bolt-holes-35 1 Ws
are 1/16" larger so they'll accept 112"
bolts. Combustion chambers are larger at
69cc. During 1978, the stamped-steel
pivot-guided rocker arms gradually re-
placed the cast-iron rail-type rocker arms.
Head castings are machined differently
t o accept pedestal rocker-arm pivots.
351W-Even though they are unique,
STANDARD PUSHROD LENGTH (inches)
6.8251
6.9053
6.883,
7.595
7.660
8.1 703
8.205,
Positive-stop rocker-arm studs. Ball pivot
jammed between nut and shoulder (arrow)
just below thread fixes rocker-arm position
relative t o the cylinder head.
35 1 W cylinder heads are basically the same
as all other small-block Ford heads.
Starting in 1969, . combustion-chamber
volume is 6 0 . 4 ~ ~ . 1.84" and 1.54" valves
with 0.3410" stems are used. Four extra
intake-manifold bolts are accommodated
by a corner cast i nt o each of t he two
intake-manifold water passages. This
changed the water-passage shape from a
rectangle t o an L shape requiring differ-
ent intake-manifold gaskets. In 1975 the
water passages became common with the
302s and the extra manifold bolts were
dropped. 351 W heads are internally mani-
folded for air injection from 1975 on.
351W heads became common with 302
heads in 1977 with the phase-in of
stamped rocker arms in 1978. Combustion-
chamber volume was increased t o 69cc.
Boss 302-1 talk about the Boss 302 heads
last because they are totally different
from all ot her small-block heads. They are
more akin t o 351C heads. Generally,
Boss 302 heads are racing heads adapted
t o a street engine. Very large valves are
angled in t wo planes for maximum breath-
ing. Valve sizes are 2.23" and 1.71" in
1969; 2.19" and 1.71" in 1970. Stem
diameter is 0.3410". At 63cc for ' 69 and
58cc for ' 70, combustion chambers are
large for a high-compression engine. This
is due t o their poly-angle shape. Shaped
or pop-up pistons reduce some of the
clearance volume. Boss 302 rocker arms
are also unusual. They are stamped-steel,
adjustable and pushrod-guided. The guides
for guiding a pair of pushrods and rocker
arms are plates secured t o the head by the
t wo screw-in rocker-arm studs. A loose
stamped-steel seat is used between the
spring and the cylinder head. Although
only produced in 1969 and 1970, the
Boss 302 engine was one of the best
engines ever produced in terms of horse-
power and durability potential for high
performance. The cylinder heads were the
key t o this performance.
EI\lGINE YEAR STANDARD PUSH ROD LENGTH (inches)
221-302 62-69% 6.825
1
302 69%-77 6.905
3
77-78 6.883
2
Boss 302 69 7.595
70 7.660
351W 69-78% 8.170
3
78%- 8.205
2
1. Before positive-stop rocker arms.
2. Used with stamped-steel rocker arms.
3. Oversize/undersize push rods available in 0.060-inch lengths.
A comparison between the original 221-302
pushrods, slightly longer 302 pushrods used
with positive-stop rocker-arm studs and the
much longer 351W pushrod. Use the accom-
panying chart to determine standard push rod
length for your engine.
cept 54.5cc combustion chambers. Intake
1.67" and lAS". Stems increased to
0.3420" and 0.3410", respectively.
289-1963 289 heads are the same as the
260, but with the 1.67" and 1 AS" valves
and 0.3420" and 0.3410" stems. The 260
shared this head in 1964-65. In February
1964, intake-valve diameter was increased
to 1.78". To decrease compression ratio,
dished pistons were used instead of
changing the combustion-chamber vol-
ume. Beginning in 1966 some cylinder
heads were machined to accept air-pump
plumbing at each exhaust port, otherwise
heads with or without air pumps are
identical. 1966-1/2 marked the end of the
pushrod-guided rocker arms. Rail-type
rocker arms were used through 1968. In
1968, the last year of 289 production,
63cc combustion chambers made the 289
heads common with the new 302V engine.
HP289-This unique cylinder head has
49.2cc combustion chambers and 1.78"
and lAS" valves with 0.3420" and
0.3410" stems. Rocker-arm studs are
threaded into the heads, giving the valve
train a high-RPM capability. In 1964,
combustion-chamber volume was in-
creased to 54.5cc to make tile basic
castings common with the standard 289.
Even though the standard 289 changed to
rail-type rocker arms, pushrod-guided
rocker arms were retained for the HP289.
302-Two basic cylinder heads were in-
stalled on 302 engines in 1968. One with
63cc combustion-chamber volume is com-
mon with the 1968 289. Another with
53.5cc chambers is installed on the
1968 high-compression 302-4V engines.
These cylinder heads were machined two
ways-with and without air-injection.
Those machined for use with air pumps
are externally manifolded for all years
through 1974; internally manifolded
from 1975 on. Beginning in mid-1968,
non-adjustable positive-stop rocker-arm
studs were installed and two-piece spring
retainers were used. Hardened-steel caps
on the exhaust-valve tips reduce tip wear
caused by side-rail rocker arms. 1969 com-
bustion chambers were reduced to 58.2cc.
302 and 351W heads are interchange-
able starting with the 1977 model year
with exception of the bolt-holes-351 Ws
are 1/16" larger so they'll accept 1/2"
bolts. Combustion chambers are larger at
69cc. During 1978, the stamped-steel
pivot-guided rocker arms gradually re-
placed the cast-iron rail-type rocker arms.
Head castings are machined differently
to accept pedestal rocker-arm pivots.
351W-Even though they are unique,
Positive-stop rocker-arm studs. Ball pivot
jammed between nut and shoulder (arrow)
just below thread fixes rocker-arm position
relative to the cylinder head.
351 W cylinder heads are basically the same
as all other small-block Ford heads.
Starting in 1969,. combustion-chamber
volume is 60Acc. 1.84" and 1.54" valves
with 0.3410" stems are used. Four extra
intake-manifold bolts are accommodated
by a corner cast into each of the two
intake-manifold water passages. This
changed the water-passage shape from a
rectangle to an L shape requiring differ-
ent intake-manifold gaskets. In 1975 the
water passages became common with the
302s and the extra manifold bolts were
dropped. 351 W heads are internally mani-
folded for air injection from 1975 on.
351 W heads became common with 302
heads in 1977 with the phase-in of
stamped rocker arms in 1978. Combustion-
chamber volume was increased to 69cc.
Boss 302-1 talk about the Boss 302 heads
last because they are totally different
from all other small-block heads. They are
more akin to 351 C heads. Generally,
Boss 302 heads are racing heads adapted
to a street engine. Very large valves are
angled in two planes for maximum breath-
ing. Valve sizes are 2.23" and 1.71" in
1969; 2.19" and 1.71" in 1970. Stem
diameter is 0.3410". At 63cc for '69 and
58cc for '70, combustion chambers are
large for a high-compreSSion engine. This
is due to their poly-angle shape. Shaped
or pop-up pistons reduce some of the
clearance volume. Bo.ss 302 rocker arms
are also unusual. They are stamped-steel,
adjustable and pushrod-guided. The guides
for guiding a pair of pushrods and rocker
arms are plates secured to the head by the
two screw-in rocker-arm studs. A loose
stamped-steel seat is used between the
spring and the cylinder head. Although
only produced in 1969 and 1970, the
Boss 302 engine was one of the best
engines ever produced in terms of horse-
power and durability potential for high
performance. The cylinder heads were the
key to this performance.
35
Four combust i on chambers represent t he basic
smal l -bl ock For d designs. Smal l -chamber 1968
302-4V, at l eft, is representative o f all 221-289
chambers. Sl i ght l y larger 302- 2V combust i on
chamber provi des 9. 5: l compressi on r at i o as
does t he mor e open 351W combust i on chamber.
Bot h have t he same clearance-volume-to-swept-
vol ume rel ati onshi p. Lat er 3021351W head, f ar
right, has an even larger combust i on chamber
and clearance vol ume i s governed b y t he amount
of pi st on dish. Casting number D80E-AB
appears, b u t n o t engine di spl acement o n t hi s
head.
AFFECTING ENGINE PERFORMANCE
) '64 - + '65 ONLY 302-4V
*VALVE DIA. LAST 260 COMB. CH. VOL.
INCREASED 5 3 . 5 ~ ~ (avg.)
1.67" 111.45'' E
t
NEW 302-2V -
CHANGE L-11 LAST 2894V
CHANGED TO
1
'66-w'66-112 - F' 67 -b'68
289 WITH
AIR.INJECTION
LAST 289
PORTS I N HEAD
*COMB. CH.
ITHERMACTORI
ARMS FROM
VOLUME INCREASED
EXTERNAL MANIFOLD P~?~f~~
TO 63cc (avg.1
t
*INTERNAL AIR-PUMP
MANIFOLD
0302 USES EXTERNAL
AIR-PUMP MANIFOLD
'62 -*' 63
NEW 221 LAST 221 '
NEW 260 260 (same1
*VALVE DIA. NEW 289
1.59" 111.39'' E COMB. CH.
*COMB. CH. VOLUME VOL. 54.5 cc
221 45cc lavg.) *VALVE DIA.
' 63- 112, ' 64+' 64. 112 -W'66-b '66.112 " 67 ' ' 6 8
*VALVE DIA. 289-4V INTAKE-VALVE 289 WIO LAST 289-4V
INCREASED ADDED DIA. INCREASED AIR-INJECTION
1.67" 111.45" E TO 1.78" PORTS I N HEAD
NEW 302-2V -
'63 - & '64 b a7
1
ONLY 302-4V
NEW HP 289-4V HP 289
LAST HP 289
*COMB. CH. VOL.
*SCREW-IN *COMB. CH. VOL.
5 3 . 5 ~ ~ (avg.)
ROCKER-ARM STUDS INCREASED TO 5 4 . 5 ~ ~ lavg.)
0 4 9 . 2 ~ ~ COMB. CH. VOL. INTAKE-VALVE
*VALVE DIA. DIA. INCREASE
1.67 111.45'' E 1.78"
260 5 4 . 5 ~ ~ (avg.) 1.67" 111.45" E
V
MAJOR CYLINDER-HEAD CHANGES
AFFECTING ENGINE PERFORMANCE
AND PARTS INTERCHANGEABILITY
'62 '63 ----..,..--..... '64 ------.... ONLY 302-4V
COMB. CH . VOL. NEW 221 LAST 22" -VA LVEDIA. LAST 260
NEW 260 260 (s ame I INCREASED
-VALVE DIA. NEW289 1.67" 1/1.45" E
1.59" 1/ 1.39" E COMB. CH.
- COMB. CH. VOLUME VOL. 54.5 ee
22145ee(avg.l -VALVEDIA.
260 54 .5ee (avg.1 1.67" 1/1.45" E
""t , .. ,)
NEW 302-2V ----
1
'66-----... '67 ----...... '68
289 WITH CHANGE L-ll LAST 289-4V LAST 289
AIR-INJECTION CHANGED TO
PORTS IN HEAD RAIL ROCKER -COMB. CH.
ARMS FROM VOLUME INCREASED
(THERMACTORI PUSHROD TO 63ee (avg.1
EXTERNAL MANIFOLD GUIDED -INTERNAL AIR-PUMP
1
MANIFOLD
-302 USES EXTERNAL
AIRPUMP MANIFOLD
---.... ... '661 / 2 ---.. .. ......
-VALVE DIA. 289-4V -I NTAKE-VALVE 289 WIO LAST 289-4V !
INCREASED ADDED DIA. INCREASED AIR-INJECTION
1.67" 1/ 1.45" E TO 1.78" PORTS IN HEAD
'63 -------...... '64---------------------...... '67
NEW HP 289-4V HP 289 LAST HP 289
-SCREW-IN -COMB. CH . VOL.
ROCKERARM STUDS INCREASED TO 54.5ee (avg.1
- 49.2ee COMB. CH. VOL. -INTAKEVALVE
-VALVE DIA. DIA. INCREASE
1.67 111.45" E 1.78"
Four combustion chambers represent the basic
small block Ford designs. Smallchamber 1968
3024V, at left, is representative of all 221-289
chambers, Slightly larger 3022V combustion
chamber provides 9,5: 1 compression ratio as
does the more open 351W combustion chamber,
Both have the same clearancevolumetoswept
volume relationship, Later 302/351W head, far
right, has an even larger combustion chamber
and clearance volume is governed by the amount
of piston dish, Casting number D80EAB
appears, but not engine displacement on this
head.
36
NEW 302-2V ---
!
ONLY 3024V
-COMB. CH. VOL.
53 .5ee (avg.l
'69 BOSS 302'-)'70 LAST BOSS 302
ALL NEW HEADS *I NTAKE VALVE SIZE REDUCED
* VALVE DI A. TO 2.19"
2.23" 111.71'' E *COMB. CH. VOL REDUCED TO
*COMB. CH. 5&c
VOL. 63cc (avg.)
*STA GERED VALVES & PEDESTAL RI A PIVOTS (ADJUSTABLE1 & RI A GUIDE PLATES
1
- CHANGE L4*-b '69 ) '75 - - 77 . - h '78-1 12 -*
POSITIVESTOP 302-2V I NTERNAL 302-2V 302-2V
ROCKER ARMS *COMB. CH. VOL. AIR-INJECTION COMB. CH. VOL. * RAI L ROCKER ARMS
*2-PC SPRING REDUCED TO PORTS INCREASED TO REPLACED BY STAMPED-
RETAINERS 5 8 . 2 ~ ~ (avg.1 69cc (avg.) STEEL ROCKER ARMS
l EXH-VALVE * VALVE DIA. USING PEDESTAL-TYPE
TIP CAPS 1.78" 111.45" E PIVOTS
'69 ) '75 * - b '77 , - w '78 L
NEW 351-2V & 4V 351-2V 351 -2V 351-2V
*60.4cc COMB. CH. VOL. I NTERNAL COMB. CH. VOL. * RAI L ROCKER
VALVE DI A. AIR-INJECTION INCREASED TO ARMS REPLACED
1.84" 111.54" E PORTS 69cc (avg.1 BY STAMPED-
*REVISED MANIFOLD.TO. * VALVE DI A. STEEL ROCKER
HEAD WATER PASSAGES 1.78" 111.45" E ARMS USING
TO CLEAR ADDED PEDESTAL-TYPE
I NTAKE-MANI FOLD BOLTS PIVOTS
1
- CHANGE L4 -' 69.-b' 71 . - b '75
b
l POSITIVE-STOP 302-2V LAST 351 -4V LAST 302
ROCKER ARMS *COMB. CH. VOL. WIO AI R PUMP
02-PC SPRING REDUCED TO
RETAINERS 5 8 . 2 ~ ~ (avg.)
EXH-VALVE
TIP CAPS
Chart i l l ustrates mi nd-boggl i ng evol ut i on o f t he smal l -bl ock For d cyl i nder head. Much o f t he compl exi t y
is rel ated t o rocker-arm design changes and emission-standard compliance. Dur i ng t he years t he changes
have been subtl e and usually conf i ned t o one area. For example, t he L shaped 351W water passages
were made common wi t h t he rectangular water passages o f t he 302 i n 1975.
Two spri ng retai ner styles you' re l i kel y t o see
are interchangeable. Single-piece machi ned one
i s o n t he l eft; two-pi ece stamped one o n t he
ri ght .
'69 BOSS 302 ---_ ... '70 LAST BOSS 302
ALL NEW HEADS -INTAKE VALVE SIZE REDUCED
-VALVE DIA. TO 2.19"
2.23" 1/1.71" E -COMB. CH. VOL REDUCED TO
-COMB. CH. 58cc
VOL. 63cc (avg.)
-STAlGERED VALVES & PEDESTAL RI A PIVOTS (ADJUSTABLE) & RIA GUIDE PLATES
L4------.... '75 .. '77------""""i .. to
- POSITIVE-STOP 3022V INTERNAL 3022V 3022V
ROCKER ARMS -COMB. CH. VOL. AIR INJECTION COMB. CH. VOL. -RAIL ROCKER ARMS
-2PC SPRING REDUCED TO PORTS INCREASED TO REPLACED BY STAMPED
RETAINERS 58.2cc (avg.) 69cc (avg.l STEEL ROCKER ARMS
-EXHVALVE -VALVE DIA. USING PEDESTALTYPE
TIP CAPS 1.78" 1/1A5" E PIVOTS
'69-----------_____ ... '75 ____ .... '77 _____ _____ .....
NEW 3512V & 4V 351 2V 3512V 3512V
- 60Acc COMB. CH. VOL. INTERNAL COMB. CH. VOL. - RAI L ROCKER
-VALVE DIA. AIRINJECTION INCREASED TO ARMS REPLACED
1.84" 1/1.54" E PORTS 69cc (avg.) BY STAMPED
-REVISED MANIFOLDTO -VALVE DIA. STEEL ROCKER
HEAD WATER PASSAGES 1.78" 1/1.45" E ARMS USING
TO CLEAR ADDED PEDESTALTYPE
INTAKEMANIFOLD BOLTS PIVOTS
1

- POSITIVESTOP 3022V LAST 351 4V LAST 302
ROCKER ARMS -COMB. CH. VOL. WIO AIR PUMP
-2PC SPRING REDUCED TO
RETAINERS 58.2cc (avg.l
-EXHVALVE
TIP CAPS
Chart illustrates mind-boggling evolution of the small-block Ford cylinder head. Much of the complexity
is related to rocker-arm design changes and emission-standard compliance. During the years the changes
have been subtle and usually confined to one area. For example, the L shaped 351W water passages
were made common with the rectangular water passages of the 302 in 1975.
Two spring retainer styles you're likely to see
are interchangeable. Single-piece machined one
is on the left; two-piece stamped one on the
right.
37
Hardenedsteel valvetip caps mayor may not be removable.
221302
351W
302/351W
Comparison between 221-302, 351W and 302/351W cylinder heads
points out differences in headto-manifold water passages, number of
manifold bolts and intake'port sizes. L-shape 351W water passages ac
commodate additional manifold bolts. Its intake ports are slightly larger
than those in the other two heads. 221302 and 302/351W water passages
are rectangular in shape.
Boss 302 head is unique with very large ports and large canted valves
which make it one of the best "breathing" cylinder heads in the world.
It uses fully adjustable, stampedsteel and pushrodlluided rocker arms.
COMPRESSI ON RATIO/CYLINDER HEAD INTERCHANGE
COMBUSTION
CHAMBER 69 70
VOLUMES 6364 6567 64 6567 65 6467 6872 7376 7778 Boss Boss 351W 6972 7376 7778
(cc's) 221 260 2892V 2892V 2894V 2894V HP289 HP289 3022V 3024V 3022V 3022V 302 302 4V 351W2V 35122V 351W2V
45 8.7 9.9 10.2 10.6 10.1 11.5 12.3 12.3 11.4 11.3 9.2 12.2 13.2 11.4 10.2 11,4
54.5 7.6 8.7 9.0 9.3 9.0 10.0 10.5 10.5 10.0 9.9 8,3 10.5 11.5 10, 1 9,2 10,1
49,2 B,2 9,3 9,6 10,0 9,6 10,B 11.6 11.6 10,7 10,6 B.B 11,4 12,4 10,8 9,7 10,8
53,5 7,7 8,8 9,1 9.4 9,1 10,2 10,7 10,7 10,1 10.0 B.4 10.7 11,7 10.2 9.3 10.2
63 6.9 7.9 B.2 8.7 B,2 9.0 9,4 9,4 9.0 8.9 7.6 9,4 10,4 9.2 B,5 9,2
5B,2 7,3 8.3 B.S B.9 B,6 9,5 10.0 10,0 9,5 9,4 8.0 10,0 11.0 9,7 B,9 9,7
60,4 7.1 8.1 B,4 B,7 B,4 9,2 9.B 9,8 9,3 9.2 7,8 9.8 10.7 9.5 8.7 9,5
-5B
11.0 11.0
-S3 10,5 10,5
69 6,4 7,4 7.7 7,9 7.7 B,4 B,B B,B B,4 B.3 7,2 8.8 9,7 B,7 B,O 8.7
-Interchanging Boss 302 cylinder heads is not practical. Requires the use of special pistons when used on other engines.
Compression ratios shown in bold face are for originally installed cylinder heads,
Never interchange cylinder heads without first checking the compression ratio. You could end with an engine that won't run on the available gasoline due
to excessively high compression or one that performs like a dog because of low compression. This chart should help.
38
Teardown 4
1966 289-2V has all the characteristics of a good solid passen-
ger-car engine: power, economy and durability. This engine is
particularly suited to the Mustang and other vehicles in the
2800-3200-lb. weight class. Photo courtesy Ford.
pounds so be ready for the weight. A 6-
hole load-spreader ring is sandwiched
between the mounting bolts and flexplate.
Don' t lose it. After removing t he flywheel
or flexplate, lift the engine plate from the
back of the engine. It's the heavy flat
sheet-metal piece which should be sitting
loosely on t he bellhousing or converter-
housing dowel pins.
Carburetor-Remove the 4 carburetor-
mount i ng nut s and lift off t he carburetor
and carburetor-spacer plate.
Drain Oil and Coolant-If you haven't
drained t he crankcase and t he engine block
cool ant , d o i t now. It's t he last chance
you have t o do it wi t hout -creating an
uncontrolled mess. I assume you won't
Tearing down the engine is the first
actual step in rebuilding. What you find
through close inspection of your engine's
component s will "tell" you which parts
have t o be replaced or to what ext ent
they must be reconditioned. I t also gives
you a first-hand l ook at t he effects your
servicing and t he way you operated your
car had on the internal wear. So don' t
l ook at t he engine teardown as merely
involving removing old parts and replacing
t hem with new ones.
REMOVE EXTERNAL HARDWARE
While your engine isstill "on t he hook"
after being lifted out of the engine com-
partment, remove as much external hard-
ware as possible before setting it down. It
will be more convenient t o do it now,
rather than after it's on the floor or a
work bench. Another tip: Use small boxes
or cans for storing fasteners and small
parts. Store them i n groups according t o
their function. For example, keep t he
exhaust-manifold bolts in the same con-
tainer rather than in different boxes or
cans containing some oil-pan,' valve cover
bolts, and t he like. Be sure t o drain t he
oil before setting t he engine down.
Water Pump-Loosen the thermostat by-
pass hose clamp and t hen the mount i ng
bolts. A tap on the end of t he pump
housing will break the pump loose from
the timing-chain cover. Coolant will pour
out of the t wo water passages when t he
seal is broken, so watch your feet!
Mark t he Distributor Housing-Put a
scribe mark, or scratch on the distributor
housing and one on the engine block t o
match i t , or si n~pl y remember t he vacuum
diaphragm points straight ahead. This.
provides a reference for positioning t he
distributor when you reinstall it. Dis-
connect the spark plug wires at the plugs
and coil, and remove cap and wires. Re-
move the distributor after removing t he
hold-down clamp and disconnecting t he
vacuum-advance hose.
Exhaust Manifolds-Most engines have a
sheet-metal duct for heating carburetor
inlet air. It must come off before at t empt -
ing t o remove the right manifold. Discon-
nect t he choke heat tube at t he choke.
Remove bot h manifolds, being careful
with t he right one so you don' t break t he
choke heat tube, if there is one.
Engine Mounts-The engine mount s are
still bolted t o the block. Remove t hem,
but keep track of the bolts by threading
them i nt o the block and tightening t hem.
Pressure Plate and Disc-Before removing
your clutch, if your car has one, mark the
pressure-plate cover and flywheel with a
center punch so they can be replaced in
t he same relative position. When remov-
ing t he clutch, loosen the 6 mount i ng
bolts a couple turns a t a time in rotation.
This will prevent t he pressure plate from
being damaged as a result of being uneven-
ly loaded. When t he pressure plate appears
t o be loose you can remove t he bolts all
t he way. Be prepared t o handle about 25
pounds of pressure plate and disc. One
final poi nt , if your clutch or a portion of
it can be reused, avoid getting any grease
on the friction surfaces, particularly the
disc. One greasy fingerprint can make a
clutch chat t er and grab.
Flywheel or Flexplate-Your engine has a
flywheel if it was mated t o a standard
transmission and a flexplate if an auto-
matic transmission was attached. There's
n o big difference about removing either
except t he flywheel weighs about 40
yuun ~i ~nyl l t d:
change level.
This tag has all the infortmmo.,,,,
displacement, date produced and
Don't lose it1
Tearing down the engine is the first
actual step in rebuilding. What you find
through close inspection of your engine's
componen ts will "tell" you which parts
have to be replaced or to what extent
they must be reconditioned. It also gives
you a first -hand look at the effects your
servicing and the way you operated your
car had on the internal wear. So don't
look at the engine teardown as merely
involving removing old parts and replacing
them with new ones.
REMOVE EXTERNAL HARDWARE
While your engine is still "on the hook"
after being lifted out of the engine com-
partment, remove as much external hard-
ware as possible before setting it down. It
will be more convenient to do it now,
rather than after it's on the floor or a
work bench. Another tip: Use small boxes
or cans for storing fasteners and small
parts. Store them in groups according to
their function. For example , keep the
exhaust-manifold bolts in the same con-
tainer rather than in different boxes or
cans containing some oil-pan, valve cover
bolts , and the like. Be sure to drain the
oil before setting the engine down .
Water Pump-Loosen the thermostat by-
pass hose clamp and then the mounting
bolts . A tap on the end of the pump
housing will break the pump loose from
the timing-chain cover. Coolant will pour
out of the two water passages when the
seal is broken, so watch your feet I
Mark the Distributor Housing-Put a
scribe mark, or scratch on the distributor
housing and one on the engine block to
match it, or simply remember the vacuum
diaphragm points straight ahead . This
provides a reference for positioning the
Teardown 4
1966 289-2V has all the characteristics of a good solid passen
ger-car engine: power, economy and durability. This engine is
particularly suited to the Mustang and other vehicles in the
2800-3200-lb. weight class. Photo courtesy Ford.
distributor when you reinstall it. Dis-
connect the spark plug wires at the plugs
and coil, and remove cap and wires. Re-
move the distributor after removing the
hold-down clamp and disconnecting the
vacuum-advance hose.
Exhaust Manifolds-Most engines have a
sheet-metal duct for heating carburetor
inlet air. It must come off before attempt-
ing to remove the right manifold. Discon-
nect the choke heat tube at the choke .
Remove both manifolds, being careful
with the right one so you don't break the
choke heat tube, if there is one .
Engine Mounts-The engine mounts are
still bolted to the block. Remove them,
but keep track of the bolts by threading
them into the block and tightening them.
Pressure Plate and Disc-Before removing
your clutch, if your car has one, mark the
pressure-plate cover and flywheel with a
center punch so they can be replaced in
the same relative position. When remov-
ing the clutch, loosen the 6 mounting
bolts a couple turns at a time in rotation.
This will prevent the pressure plate from
being damaged as a result of being uneven-
ly loaded . When the pressure plate appears
to be loose you can remove the bol ts all
the way. Be prepared to handle about 2S
pounds of pressure plate and disc. One
final point, if your clutch or a portion of
it can be reused, avoid getting any grease
on the friction sUijaces, particularly the
disc. One greasy fingerprin t can make a
clutch chatter and grab.
Flywheel or Flexplate- Your engine has a
flywheel if it was mated to a standard
transmission and a flex plate if an auto-
matic transmission was attached. There's
no big difference about removing either
except the flywheel weighs about 40
pounds so be ready for the weight. A 6-
hole load-spreader ring is sandwiched
between the mounting bolts and flexplate .
Don't lose it. After removing the flywheel
or flex plate, lift the engine plate from the
back of the engine. It's the heavy flat
sheet-metal piece which should be si tting
loosely on the bell housing or converter-
housing dowel pins.
Carburetor-Remove the 4 carburetor-
mounting nuts and lift off the carburetor
and carburetor-spacer plate.
Drain Oil and Coolant-If you haven't
drained the crankcase and the engine block
coolant, do it now. It's the last chance
you have to do it without creating an
uncontrolled mess. I assume you won't
This tag has all the information on your engine:
displacement, date produced and change level.
Don't lose itl
39
Remove as much hardware from your engine as
partment and before setting i t down. I t will be
tributor, exhaust manifolds and carburetor are bei
have any difficulties with draining the oil,
otherwise you wouldn't be this far along.
As far as the coolant which remains in the
engine block, the easiest way of draining
it is to knock out the freeze plugs. Most
of the coolant will come out if you knock
out the lowest plug on each side of the
engine. Use a hammer and punch t o drive
the plug into the block. Watch out for the
coolant because it'll come pouring out. To
remove a plug from the block, pry it out
with a set of Channel-lock type pliers and
discard the plugs.
GETTING INSIDE THE ENGINE
Now's the time t o prepare t o open the
"patient" up. Find a suitable place t o
work and set the engine down. A strong
work bench with a work surface approx-
imately 30 inches off the floor is ideal.
However, if you're one of the few indi-
viduals who possesses an engine stand, by
all means use it. If you don't have one,
don't be concerned. I know professional
rebuilders who prefer work benches!
INTAKE MANIFOLD
First remove the valve covers. Their
edges hang over the inboard side of the
cylinder heads and can interfere with the
manifold's removal. Covers stuck to the
heads can be popped loose by prying
against the cylinder head and under the
cover with a screwdriver after removing
the attaching bolts. There's your first
look at the inside of your engine.
After removing the intake-manifold
bolts you'll quickly discover the valve
covers were an easy touch compared to
the manifold. It is stuck to both cylinder
possible after pulling i t out of the engine com-
light and easier to handle. The water pump, dis-
ng removed here.
heads and the top cylinder-block surfaces.
Wedge a screwdriver between one of the
corners of the manifold and a cylinder
head. Once the manifold comes loose, the
rest is easy. When you're doing this, make
sure you have all the bolts out. When the
manifold breaks loose, lift it off-it's
heavy! The valve lifters and pushrods will
now be exposed.
REMOVING THE CYLINDER HEADS
Rocker Arms and Pushrods-Now it's time
t o zero in on the real serious stuff. Loosen
the rocker-arm nuts or bolts so the rocker
arms can be rotated to the side, freeing
the pushrods so they can be lifted out. If
your engine has rail-type rockers, don't
remove the rocker arms until you're ready
t o disassemble the head. Inspection of the
valve tips and their rocker-arm mating
surfaces for wear can be done more easily.
When you complete the rocker-arm and
fulcrum removal, regardless of which type
you have, wire the rockers and their ful-
crums together in pairs. If they are mixed
up you may end up with scored fulcrums
and rockers when the engine is run.
Rocker-arm stud nuts can go on in any
sequence. To keep the pivots with their
mating rockers the simplest method is t o
string them on a wire starting with cylin-
der 1 and proceeding t o 8 in order of
removal.
Unbolting the Heads-Each cylinder head
is secured with 10 bolts-count them.
Five are evenly spaced along the bottom
of the head and 5 more are with the valve
springs and valves. They are hidden from
view when the valve cover is in place. I
When rem,.,,,, .,, ., .,,,.,lit-transmision flex-
plate, don't lose the load-spreader ring (arrow).
I t must be reinstalled with the flexplate.
Remove as much hardware from your engine as possible after pulling it out of the engine com-
partment and before setting it down. It will be light and easier to handle. The water pump, dis-
tributor, exhaust manifolds and carburetor are being removed here.
have any difficulties with draining the oil,
otherwise you wouldn't be this far along.
As far as the coolant which remains in the
engine block, the easiest way of draining
it is to knock out the freeze plugs. Most
of the coolant will come out if you knock
out the lowest plug on each side of the
engine. Use a hammer and punch to drive
the plug into the block. Watch out for the
coolant because it'll come pouring out. To
remove a plug from the block, pry it out
with a set of Channel-lock type pliers and
discard the plugs.
GETTING INSIDE THE ENGINE
Now's the time to prepare to open the
"patient" up. Find a suitable place to
work and set the engine down. A strong
work bench with a work surface approx-
imately 30 inches off the floor is ideal.
However, if you're one of the few indi-
viduals who possesses an engine stand, by
all means use it. If you don't have one,
don't be concerned. I know professional
rebuilders who prefer work benches!
INTAKE MANIFOLD
First remove the valve covers. Their
edges hang over the inboard side of the
cylinder heads and can interfere with the
manifold's removal. Covers stuck to the
heads can be popped loose by prying
against the cylinder head and under the
cover with a screwdriver after removing
the attaching bolts. There's your first
look at the inside of your engine.
After removing the intake-manifold
bolts you' ll quickly discover the valve
covers were an easy touch compared to
the manifold. It is stuck to both cylinder
40
heads and the top cylinder-block surfaces.
Wedge a screwdriver between one of the
corners of the manifold and a cylinder
head. Once the manifold comes loose, the
rest is easy. When you're doing this, make
sure you have all the bolts out. When the
manifold breaks loose, lift it off-it's
heavy I The valve lifters and push rods will
now be exposed.
REMOVING THE CYLINDER HEADS
Rocker Arms and Pushrods-Now it's time
to zero in on the real serious stuff. Loosen
the rocker-arm nuts or bolts so the rocker
arms can be rotated to the side, freeing
the pushrods so they can be lifted out. If
your engine has rail-type rockers, don't
remove the rocker arms until you're ready
to disassemble the head. Inspection of the
valve tips and their rocker-arm mating
surfaces for wear can be done more easily.
When you complete the rocker-arm and
fulcrum removal, regardless of which type
you have, wire the rockers and their ful-
crums together in pairs. If they are mixed
up you may end up with scored fulcrums
and rockers when the engine is run.
Rocker-arm stud nuts can go on in any
sequence. To keep the pivots with their
mating rockers the simplest method is to
string them on a wire starting with cylin-
der 1 and proceeding to 8 in order of
removal.
Unbolting the Heads-Each cylinder head
is secured with 10 bolts-count them.
Five are evenly spaced along the bottom
of the head and 5 more are with the valve
springs and valves. They are hidden from
view when the valve cover is in place. I
When removing an automatic-transmission flex-
plate, don't lose the load-spreader ring (arrow).
It must be reinstalled with the flexplate.
may be insulting your intelligence by sug-
gesting you make sure all t he head bolts
are removed before you try brealung t he
cylinder head loose from the block, but
I've seen more than one enthusiastic
individual attempting t o pry a head loose
from t he cylinder block with a head bolt
or t wo still in place. See the accompanying
phot o of a "two-piece" head that resulted
because one fellow wouldn' t give up.
Don' t let this happen t o you. The last
bolt t o take out before you remove the
right head attaches the oil dip-stick tube
t o t he front of t he head.
After my cylinder-head-bolt sermon,
I'll now suggest you run a couple of bolts
back in on each side just t o engage a
couple of threads. This prevents a head
from coming off and falling t o the floor.
This may damage a cylinder head as well
as your feet. After the heads are loose,
remove t he bolts and lift the heads off.
To remove freeze plugs, knock them in-then pry them out. Be ready for coolant t o pour out of the
block when the first plug is dislodged. The same occurs on the other cylinder bank.
I I I
Extreme corrosion of these freeze plugs and rust buildup in the water pump was caused by using only water in the cooling system. Even if you live i n the
desert, use anti-freeze or rust inhibitor t o prevent this happening t o your engine.
Cylinder heads can be as stubborn t o
remove as the manifold. After the bond is
broken, the job is relatively easy. First,
pry between the block and one of the t op
corners of the cylinder head. If that
doesn' t break i t loose, wedge between the
head and block. The wedge will have t o
be sharp like a chisel. If your engine is a
6-bolt-bellhousing 289 or 302, you have
an easier job. Drive a chisel or similar
wedge between the top-rear corner of the
head and t he bellhousing mounting boss.
There is a small gap between the block and
the head for getting the wedge started.
Once the head has started t o move, you
can pry it the rest of the way and lift it
off after removing the "safety bolts." Get
bot h heads off and your engine will be
100 1bs. lighter.
I,, off your valve covers by prying under a First look under the valve CCIV.IJ lGwc(ll. =A-
flange at the corner. Note the new spark treme sludge buildup. This was caused by the
plug i n cylinder 6. You'll see the reason for this engine being operated too cool because a ther-
later. mostat was not installed. Always use a thermo-
stat.
To remove freeze plugs, knock them in-then pry them out. Be ready for coolant to pour out of the
block when the first plug is dislodged. The same occurs on the other cylinder bank.
may be insulting your intelligence by sug-
gesting you make sure all the head bolts
are removed before you try breaking the
cylinder head loose from the block, but
I've seen more than one enthusiastic
individual attempting to pry a head loose
from the cylinder block with a head bolt
or two still in place. See the accompanying
photo of a "two-piece" head that resulted
because one fellow wouldn't give up.
Don't let this happen to you. The last
bolt to take out before you remove the
right head attaches the oil dip-stick tube
to the front of the head.
After my cylinder-head-bolt sermon,
I'll now suggest you run a couple of bolts
back in on each side just to engage a
couple of threads. This prevents a head
from coming off and falling to the floor.
This may damage a cylinder head as well
as your feet. After the heads are loose,
remove the bolts and lift the heads off.
Extreme corrosion of these freeze plugs and rust buildup in the water pump was caused by using only water in the cooling system. Even if Vou live in the
desert, use antifreeze or rust inhibitor to prevent this happening to your engine.
Pop off your valve covers by prying under a
flange at the corner. Note the new spark
plug in cylinder 6. You'll see the reason for this
later.
First look under the valve covers reveals ex
treme sludge buildup. This was caused by the
engine being operated too cool because a ther-
mostat was not installed. Always use a thermo-
stat.
Cylinder heads can be as stubborn to
remove as the manifold. After the bond is
broken, the job is relatively easy. First,
pry between the block and one of the top
corners of the cylinder head. If that
doesn't break it loose, wedge between the
head and block. The wedge will have to
be sharp like a chisel. If your engine is a
6-bolt-bellhousing 289 or 302, you have
an easier job. Drive a crusel or similar
wedge between the top-rear corner of the
head and the bellhousing mounting boss.
There is a small gap between the block and
the head for getting the wedge started.
Once the head has started to move, you
can pry it the rest of the way and lift it
off after removing the "safety bolts." Get
both heads off and your engine will be
100 lbs. lighter.
41
Your intake manifold should easily break free
ing a screwdriver between a corner of the man
loose.
from the cylinder heads and the block by wedg-
ifo old and a head. It should l i f t off easily once it's
This is a t r i b~
stupidity, you
of head bolts
ute t o human determination or
be the judge. The bottom row
; were not removed before the
head was removed, but not all of it unfortu-
nately. Although a brand-C cylinder head, the
same thing can be accomplished with a Ford
head with sufficient brawn, determination and
a very long pry bar.
Here's the reason for the odd plug i n number-
6 cylinder-oil. Compare it t o the adjacent
I. . - . .
. . .
cylinders. Because of -oil fouling a hotter plug
was used i n this one cylinder.
Begin the head-removal process by loosening up the rocker arms and removing the pushrods. I f you
elect to remove the rocker arms, keep the pivots and their rocker arms together-don't mix them up.
Stringing them on a piece of wire is a simple and sure way of doing it.
NOW FOR THE BOTTOM END
For the crankshaft damper removal,
you'll need a puller. Before the front
engine cover (timing-chain cover) can be
removed, the damper pulley has t o come
off. The first thing you'll have to do is
remove the center attaching bolt and
washer. Just because the bolt is out doesn't
mean the damper is going t o slide right
off. Quite the contrary, it must be re-
moved with a puller. The damper fits on a
long extension of the crankshaft. Don't
try prying the damper off. The only thing
you'll accomplish is damaging the damper
and front cover or oil pan. You must use
a puller with a plate matching the crank-
shaft pulley mounting holes in the damper
and a center bolt that pushes against the
crankshaft end. Because the threaded
hole in the end of the crank can't be
pushed against, insert the damper mount-
ing bolt without its washer. This gives the
puller something to push against and the
bolt width clears the inside diameter of
the damper as it is pulled off.
Roll the Engine Over-After the front
pulley is off remove the oil pan. I do this
because of the way it fits to the frorlt
cover. You'll need a 7116-in. wrench for
all the pan bolts except those next t o the
front and rear crankshaft seals are 112-in.
Oil Pump Assembly-Remove the oil
pump. It's susceptible to damage now
that it's exposed, particularly the pickup
tube. After loosening the pump remove it
and the drive shaft which inserts into the
base of the distributor. The oil-pump drive
shaft is one part you replace because
they've been known t o fail, resulting in
seized bearings and other terrible things.
Save it t o compare length and hex size
with the new one.
Front Engine Cover-Although front
covers have changed since the 221 engine
was first produced, their removal is sim-
ilar with one slight exception. The 1968
through 1972 302s and the 1968 289
used a separate sheetmetal timing pointer
attached t o the cover by the lower-left
cover bolt at one end and a self-tapping
screw at the other end. The pointer htdes
Your intake manifold should easily break free from the cylinder heads and the block by wedg-
ing a screwdriver between a corner of the manifold and a head. It should lift off easily once it's
loose.
Begin the head-removal process by loosening up the rocker arms and removing the pushrods. If you
elect to remove the rocker arms, keep the pivots and their rocker arms together-don't mix them up.
Stringing them on a piece of wire is a simple and sure way of doing it.
NOW FOR THE BOTTOM END
For the crankshaft damper removal,
you'll need a puller. Before the front
engine cover (timing-chain cover) can be
removed, the damper pulley has to come
off. The first thing you'll have to do is
remove the center attaching bolt and
washer. Just because the bolt is out doesn't
mean the damper is going to slide right
off. Quite the contrary, it must be re-
moved with a puller. The damper fits on a
long extension of the crankshaft. Don't
try prying the damper off. The only thing
you'll accomplish is damaging the damper
and front cover or oil pan. You must use
a puller with a plate matching the crank-
shaft pulley mounting holes in the damper
42
and a center bolt that pushes against the
crankshaft end. Because the threaded
hole in the end of the crank can't be
pushed against, insert the damper mount-
ing bolt without its washer. This gives the
puller something to push against and the
bolt width clears the inside diameter of
the damper as it is pulled off.
Roll the Engine Over-After the front
pulley is off rem ove the oil pan. I do this
because of the way it fits to the front
cover. You'll need a 7/16-in . wrench for
all the pan bolts except those next to the
front and rear crankshaft seals are 1/2-in.
Oil Pump Assembly-Remove the oil
pump. It's susceptible to damage now
tha tit's exposed , particularly the pickup
This is a tribute to human determination or
stupidity, you be the judge. The bottom row
of head bolts were not removed before the
head was removed, but not all of it unfortu-
nately. Although a brand-C cylinder head, the
same thing can be accomplished with a Ford
head with sufficient brawn, determination and
a very long pry bar.
Here's the reason for the odd plug in number-
6 cylinder-oil. Compare it to the adjacent
cylinders. Because of oil fouling a hotter plug
was used in this one cylinder.
tube. After loosening the pump remove it
and the drive shaft which inserts into the
base of the distributor. The oil-pump drive
shaft is one part you replace because
they've been known to fail, reSUlting in
seized bearings and other terrible things.
Save it to compare length and hex size
with the new one.
Front Engine Cover-Although front
covers have changed since the 221 engine
was first produced , their removal is sim-
ilar with one slight exception. The 1968
through 1972 302s and the 1968 289
used a separate sheet-metal timing pointer
attached to the cover by the lower-left
cover bolt at one end and a self-tapping
screw at the other end . The pointer hides
one of the cover bolts. At t empt t o remove
the cover without discovering this and a
broken cover may result. Swing the
pointer or remove i t t o gain access t o t he
"mystery" bolt. Loosen the self-tapping
screw after removing t he lower-left cover
bolt and swing the pointer out of t he way
so you can get your wrench on t he bolt.
Leave the pointer on t he cover so you
don' t lose i t or its screw. With a11 the bolts
out , remove the cover by giving i t a light
tap with a rubber or plastic mallet at the
top-rear edge.
Small-Block Achilles Heel-Like most
engines using a chain-driven camshaft, t he
chain and drive sprockets are a weak poi nt
when i t comes t o durability. This is
especially true with the later nylon-
jacketed aluminum camshaft sprocket
which replaced t he original cast-iron
Remove all head bolts-there are 10-before attempting to remove a cylinder head. To break th
heads loose from the block I wedge a chisel between the head and a bellhousing bolt boss. Don
wedge between the head and block deck surfaces or you'll surely damage them.
To remove the crankshaft damper you'll need a puller. Remove the damper attaching bolt and washer, then reinstall the bolt so the puller will have some-
thing to push against. The damper will clear the bolt head as it's being pulled off.
A speed handle comes in handy for removing the oil-pan bolts. I'm using a gasket scraper here to pop the pan loose from the block.
-
one of the cover bolts. Attempt to remove
the cover without discovering this and a
broken cover may result. Swing the
pointer or remove it to gain access to the
"mystery" bolt. Loosen the self-tapping
screw after removing the lower-left cover
bolt and swing the painter out of the way
so you can get your wrench on the bolt.
Leave the pointer on the cover so you
don't lose it or its screw. With all the bolts
out , remove the cover by giving it a light
tap with a rubber or plastic mallet at the
top-rear edge .
Small-Block Achilles Heel-Like most
engines using a chain-driven camshaft, the
chain and drive sprockets are a weak point
when it comes to durability. This is
especially true with the later nylon-
jacketed aluminum camshaft sprocket
which replaced the original cast-iron
Remove all head bolts-there are 10-before attempting to remove a cylinder head. To break the
heads loose from the block I wedge a chisel between the head and a bellhousing bolt boss. Don't
wedge between the head and block deck surfaces or you'll surely damage them.
To remove the crankshaft damper you'll need a puller. Remove the damper attaching bolt and washer, then reinstall the bolt so the puller will have some-
thing to push against. The damper will clear the bolt head as it's being pulled off.
A speed handle comes in handy for removing the oil-pan bolts. I'm using a gasket scraper here to pop the pan loose from the block.
43
I f your engine has a sheet-metal t i mi ng poi nt er attached t o t he f r ont cover, swi ng it out o f t he way
so y ou can remove t he bol t hi di ng behi nd it. Wi t h al l t he f r ont cover bol t s out you can remove t he
f r ont cover. A l i ght t ap wi l l break it loose.
sprocket in mid-1965. The engine used chain and cam sprocket have been in the
for much of the photography in this book engine for more than 50,000 miles, don't
Wi t h t he oi l pan out o f t he way, remove t he oi l
finally refused t o run after more than bother checking-replace them. Check
pump and its driveshaft. E~~~ though the
165,000 miles. Its timing chain was worn- chain slack. It shouldn't exceed 112 in.
dri vashaft wi l l be reolaced save it f or now. it'll elongated-SO badlv it iumped a few Turn vour crankshaft so one side of the
come i n handy l ater bn.
"cogs," so the c& was hot jimed with chain ;s fully tight and the other side is
the rest of the engine. Consequently, the slack. Lay a 12-in. steel rule or any
engine ceased t o operate. straight edge against the chain as shown
Prior to removing the chain and its
sprockets, check them for wear if they've
had less than 50,000 miles of use. If the
in the sketch and push in the middle of
the unsupported length of the chain. With
the straight edge for reference, your chain
should have no more than 112-in. of slack,
or deflection. If more, replace chain and
the cam sprocket. If it has less, keep
one point in mind. Your chain is going to
start wearing the instant you get your
engine back in operation, so the better
the shape, the higher its useful mileage.
Getting the Chain Off-Remove the bolt
and washer which hold the cam-drive
sprocket and the fuel-pump cam to the
camshaft. If you haven't already removed
it, slide the oil slinger off the crankshaft
extension. There's no slinger on 1977 and
later engines.
To remove the timing chain and
sprockets, you'll have to pull them part
way off together. Start the cam sprocket
moving by first prying against the back-
side of the sprocket on opposite sides
with two screwdrivers. Work it loose.
Don't use too much force, particularly
with the aluminum/nylon type. Don't be
surprised if the sprocket is a little stub-
born, they usually are. This brings up a
potential problem because the nylon teeth
are easily damaged. It's not a problem if
the sprocket needs replacing, but if it
appears to be useable, try to save it. Spread
Thi s smal l -bl ock f i nal l y refused t o r un af t er T o check your chain, t ur n t he crank t o t i ght en the load against the back of the sprocket
165,000 mi l es because i t s t i mi ng chai n wor e one side o f t he chai n and measure t he slack
by placing a large-diameter flat washer
and elongated t o t he poi nt t hat it j umped side. If it defl ects mor e t han 112 in., replace
between each screwdriver and the sprock-
several sprocket teeth, t hr owi ng t he cam out of it.
t i me wi t h t he engine.
et. The chain will also help distribute the
With the oil pan out of the way, remove the oil
pump and its driveshaft . Even though the
driveshaft will be replaced save it for now, it'll
come in handy later on.
This small-block finally refused to run after
165,000 miles because its timing chain wore
and elongated to the point that it jumped
several sprocket teeth, throwing the cam out of
time with the engine.
44
If your engine has a sheet-metal timing pointer attached to the front cover, swing it out of the way
so you can remove the bolt hiding behind it . With all the front-cover bolts out you can remove the
front cover . A light tap will break it loose.
sprocket in mid-1965 _ The engine used
for much of the photography in this book
finally refused to run after more than
165,000 miles. Its timing chain was worn-
elongated-so badly it jumped a few
"cogs," so the cam was not timed with
the rest of the engine. Consequen tly, the
engine ceased to operate.
Prior to removing the chain and its
sprockets, check them for wear if they've
had less than 50,000 miles of use . If the

CAM SPROCKET
To check your chain, turn the crank to tighten
one side of the chain and measure the slack
side. If it deflects more than 1/2 in., replace
it .
chain and cam sprocket have been in the
engine for more than 50 ,000 miles, don't
bother checking-replace them. Check
chain It shouldn't exceed 1/2 in.
Turn your crankshaft so one side of the
chain is fully tight and the other side is
slack. Lay a 12-in. steel rule or any
straight edge against the chain as shown
in the sketch and push in the middle of
the unsupported length of the chain. With
the straight edge for reference , your chain
should have no more than 1 /2-in . of slack,
or deflection. If more, replace chain and
the cam sprocket. If it has less, keep
one poin t in mind. Your chain is going to
start wearing the instant you get your
engine back in ope ration , so the better
the shape, the higher its useful mileage.
Getting the Chain Off-Remove the bolt
and washer which hold the cam-drive
sprocket and the fuel-pump cam to the
camshaft. If you haven't already removed
it, slide the oil slinger off the crankshaft
extension . There's no slinger on 1977 and
later engines .
To remove the timing chain and
sprockets, you'll have to pull them part
way off together. Start the cam sprocket
moving by first prying against the back-
side of the sprocket on opposite sides
with two screwdrivers. Work it loose_
Don't use too much force, particularly
with the aluminum/nylon type . Don't be
surprised if the sprocket is a little stub-
born , they usually are. This brings up a
potential problem because the nylon teeth
are easily damaged. It's not a problem if
the sprocket needs replacing, bu t if it
appears to be useable , try to save it. Spread
the load against the back of the sprocket
by placing a large-diameter flat washer
between each screwdriver and the sprock-
et. The chain will also help distribute the
This is the fate of most high-mileage aluminum/ Slightly exaggerated, this is a section of a worn A ridge reamer being used to cut away the ridge.
nylon cam sprockets: cracked and broken teeth. cylinder bore. A bore wears in a taper: more This lets the piston and rod assembly slide up
Hot climates and emission controls which at the top than at the .bottom. Short unworn out of its bore without its rings hanging up and
cause the engine t o operate at higher tempera- section at the very top of a bore is the ridge, causing possible ring-land damage. I f you intend
tures aggravate the problem. directly above the upper limit of travel of the t o reuse your pistons, this is a must. Otherwise,
top of compression ring. it's a convenience.
load on the sprocket. If the nylon has
become brittle from the heat, there's a
good chance it will crack anyway. When
you get the sprocket loose, move it for-
ward off the end of the camshaft with the
crank sprocket and chain. If you don't
move them together, you won't be able
t o get the cam sprocket all the way off
without the chain binding unless your
chain is so far gone that you can slip it
over one of the sprockets. Remove the
cam sprocket and chain, and then the
crankshaft sprocket.
If your engine used the aluminum/
nylon cam sprocket, check the nylon for
cracks and broken teeth. Even though the
nylon-type gear wears very well, it gets
brittle when subjected to high temper-
atures. Consequently, the teeth will crack
and break off. So treat it like a chain. Re-
place it if it has more than 50,000 miles
on it. Check it for cracks and breaks if
it has less than this mileage and replace it
if you find any. If you live in a hot clim-
ate, particularly if your engine is a '73 or
later emission-controlled model which
operates at higher temperatures, I suggest
replacing the nylon sprocket with the
earlier cast-iron type.
As for the cast-iron sprockets, they
won't be cracked, but the plates which
make up a silent chain may have worn
ridges in the teeth to an extent that one
or both of the sprockets should be re-
placed. To say exactly what the maximum
allowable tooth wear is difficult. Drag
your fingernail across the face of a tooth.
If it is rough to the point of making your
fingernail hang up or jump from ridge t o
ridge, replace the sprocket.
REMOVE THE CRANK, RODS &
PISTONS BEFORE THE CAM
A camshaft can be removed before the
crankshaft and rod-and-piston assemblies,
but it's more convenient to reverse the
procedure. With the crank and rods out
of the way, you'll have access to the full
length of the cam from inside the block
rather than just the end of it from the
outside. Again, it can and is done the
other way, but it's more difficult and the
crankshaft, rods and pistons have to come
out anyway.
Remove the Ridge-Because the top piston
ring doesn't travel all the way t o the top
of the cylinder when the piston comes up
to its TDC, there is approximately 114-inch
of unworn bore and carbon buildup at
the top of the cylinder. This is called a
ridge. It should be removed before you
attempt to remove the rod and piston
assemblies.This is especially true if your
pistons can be saved because there is a
good possibility they'll suffer ring-land
damage if forced out over the ridge. If
you know you aren't going to use your old
pistons, they can be driven out the top of
the cylinder and over the ridge using a
long punch or bar which will reach up
inside the piston. Don't hammer on the
rod. Before doing this, just make sure you
aren't planning on reusing these pistons
because they will be damaged! A broken
ring land ruins a piston.
To remove the ridges, you'll have to
use a tool appropriately called a ridge
reamer. This tool has a cutter mounted in
a fixture which can be expanded t o fit
different bore sizes. A socket and handle
from your tool chest rotate the tool to do
the cutting, or reaming. As you use the
tool, you'll have to rotate the crank a
couple of times to move the pistons down
the bores so you can get the tool in place.
When cutting a ridge, cut the ridge only
to match the worn bore. This is all you'll
need t o remove the piston, and any more
could create a need for additional boring
to clean up the cylinder.
Don't Mix the Connecting Rods and Caps-
.Now you can get on with removing the
rods and pistons. Roll the engine over to
expose the bottom end. Before removing
any connecting-rod caps, m.ake certain
each rod and cap is numbered according
to its respective cylinder. These numbers
should appear o n the small machined
flat at the junction of each rod and cap.
This check is a precautionary step because
Ford stamps the numbers on during man-
ufacturing. However, if they aren't num-
bered, you must do it because the rods
and caps are machined as an assembly.
Consequently, any caps interchanged
with other rods will require re-machining
before use.
If the rods and caps aren't marked, use
a small set of numbered dies to do the
marking before removing any bearing
caps. Do the marking on the flats next to
the bearing-cap parting line. If you can't
obtain number dies, center punch prick
marks on the rod and cap corresponding
to the cylinder numbers. Or, use an elec-
tric engraver which has the advantage
that you don't have to hit the rods or
caps t o mark them.
Be Careful of the Crankshaft Bearing
Journals-Before removing a connecting
rod and piston assembly, place something
This is the fate of most high-mileage aluminum/
nylon cam sprockets: cracked and broken teeth_
Hot climates and emission controls which
cause the engine to operate at higher tempera-
tures aggravate the problem_
load on the sprocket. If the nylon has
become brittle from the heat, there's a
good chance it will crack anyway. When
you get the sprocket loose, move it for-
ward off the end of the camshaft with the
crank sprocket and chain. If you don't
move them together, you won't be able
to get the cam sprocket all the way off
without the chain binding unless your
chain is so far gone that you can slip it
over one of the sprockets. Remove the
cam sprocket and chain, and then the
crankshaft sprocket.
If your engine used the aluminum/
nylon cam sprocket, check the nylon for
cracks and broken teeth. Even though the
nylon-type gear wears very well, it gets
brittle when subjected to high temper-
atures. Consequently, the teeth will crack
and break off. So treat it like a chain. Re-
place it if it has more than 50,000 miles
on it. Check it for cracks and breaks if
it has less than this mileage and replace it
if you find any. If you live in a hot clim-
ate, particularly if your engine is a '73 or
later emission-controlled model which
operates at higher temperatures, I suggest
replacing the nylon sprocket with the
earlier cast-iron type.
As for the cast-iron sprockets, they
won't be cracked, but the plates which
make up a silent chain may have worn
ridges in the teeth to an extent that one
or both of the sprockets should be re-
placed. To say exactly what the maximum
allowable tooth wear is difficult. Drag
your fingernail across the face of a tooth.
If it is rough to the point of making your
fingernail hang up or jump from ridge to
ridge, replace the sprocket.
RIDGE
ORIGINAL BORE
Slightly exaggerated, this is a section of a worn
cylinder bore. A bore wears in a taper: more
at the top than at the bottom. Short unworn
section at the very top of a bore is the ridge,
directly above the upper limit of travel of the
top of compression ring.
REMOVE THE CRANK, RODS &
PISTONS BEFORE THE CAM
A camshaft can be removed before the
crankshaft and rod-and-piston assemblies,
but it's more convenient to reverse the
procedure. With the crank and rods out
of the way, you'll have access to the full
length of the cam from inside the block
rather than just the end of it from the
outside . Again, it can and is done the
other way, but it's more difficult and the
crankshaft, rods and pistons have to come
out anyway.
Remove the Ridge-Because the top piston
ring doesn't travel all the way to the top
of the cylinder when the piston comes up
to its TDC, there is approximately 1/4-inch
of unworn bore and carbon buildup at
the top of the cylinder. This is called a
ridge. It should be removed before you
attempt to remove the rod and piston
assemblies.This is especially true if your
pistons can be saved because there is a
good possibility they'lJ su ffer ring-land
damage if forced out over the ridge. If
you know you aren't going to use your old
pistons , they can be driven ou t the top of
the cylinder and over the ridge using a
long punch or bar which will reach up
inside the piston. Don't hammer on the
rod. Before doing this, just make sure you
aren't planning on reusing these pistons
because they will be damaged! A broken
ring land ruins a piston.
To remove the ridges, you'll have to
use a tool appropriately called a ridge
reamer. This tool has a cutter mounted in
a fixture which can be expanded to fit
different bore sizes. A socket and handle
from your tool chest rotate the tool to do
A ridge reamer being used to cut away the ridge.
This lets the piston and rod assembly slide up
out of its bore without its rings hanging up and
causing possible ring-land damage. If you intend
to reuse your pistons, this is a must. Otherwise,
it's a convenience.
the cutting, or reaming. As you use the
tool, you'll have to rotate the crank a
couple of times to move the pistons down
the bores so you can get the tool in place.
When cutting a ridge, cut the ridge only
to match the worn bore. This is all you'1I
need to remove the piston, and any more
could create a need for additional boring
to clean up the cylinder.
Don't Mix the Connecting Rods and Caps-
Now you can get on with removing the
rods and pistons . Roll the engine over to
expose the bottom end. Before removing
any cOIU1ecting-rod caps, make certain
each rod and cap is numbered according
to its respective cylinder. These numbers
should appear on the small machined
flat at the junction of each rod and cap.
This check is a precautionary step because
Ford stamps the numbers on during man-
ufacturing. However, if they aren't num-
bered, you must do it because the rods
and caps are machined as an assembly.
Consequently, any caps interchanged
with other rods will require re-machining
before use.
If the rods and caps aren't marked, use
a small set of numbered dies to do the
marking before removing any bearing
caps. Do the marking on the flats next to
the bearing-cap parting line. If you can't
obtain number dies, center punch prick
marks on the rod and cap corresponding
to the cylinder numbers. Or, use an elec-
tric engraver which has the advantage
tha t you don't have to hit the rods or
caps to mark them.
Be Careful of the Crankshaft Bearing
Journals-Before removing a connecting
rod and piston assembly , place something
45
Before removing a connecting-rod cap from
its rod make sure both are stamped with the
Turn the crank throw of the piston you're
removing to BDC. then remove the rod cap.
cylinder number. I f they aren't numbered Place joirnal protectors (arrows) over the rod
mark them on the machined flats a t the rod and bolts and shove the piston and rod assembly
cap parting line like I'm doing here. out the top of its bore while watching that the
rod doesn't hang up on the bottom of the
cylinder.
especially for this purpose. They are
available free of charge for the asking-all
- r you have to do is find the right guy t o
ask. Your automotive supply store is a
. - -
good place to begin.
To remove each piston, rotate the
crankshaft so the piston is at BDC (bottom
dead than if center). it were You'll at TDc, have and better the rod access will With I all the rods and pistons out of the way you can y loosen the main-bearing bolts. The bearing caps
hang up between the crank throw and the
should f i t tightly in their registers so a little tap on the side with a hammer should pop them loose
so they can be removed.
bottom of the cylinder bore if it's in the
middle of a stroke. Remove the nuts and
bearing cap. With the protectors on the
rod bolts, push the piston and rod assem-
bly out the top of the cylinder. To protect
your tender hands and knuckles, push on
the piston or rod with the end of a ham-
mer handle, using the hammer head as a
handle. As you remove each rod and pis-
ton, put the bearings to one side. Then
replace the cap on the rod and secure it
with. the nuts and set them aside.
Bearings Tell a Story-Don't throw your
old connecting-rod or main bearings away
yet-keep them in order. They'll save you
the expense of farming much of your in-
spection work out because how a bearing
wears is an accurate indication of the
condition of parts such as the crankshaft
and connecting rods. Therefore, as you
remove each bearing set, tape them to-
gether with some masking tape and record
which connecting rod or main cap the pair
went with. It'll be valuable later on in the
rebuild inspection and reconditioning
stage.
Remove the Crankshaft-After removing
the main-bearing bolts, you'll find the
main-bearing caps won't lift off like the
connecting-rod caps did. The main-bearing
caps fit tightly in registers machined in
the bottom of the main-bearing webs of
the block for accurate lateral (sideways)
location. To remove them, tap the end of
each cap while lifting up on it and it'll
pop right off.
...
Before removing a connecting-rod cap from
its rod make sure both are stamped with the
cylinder number. If they aren't numbered
mark them on the machined flats at the rod and
cap parting line like I'm doing here.
over the rod bolts to protect the connect-
ing-rod-bearing journals. If a bare rod bolt
falls or drags against the bearing surface
during piston and rod removal, the journal
will surely be nicked. Therefore, place
about a 2-in. piece of plastic hose or tube
over each rod bolt to protect the bearing
journals. Some parts manufacturers, sup-
pliers and rebuilders have plastic sleeves
which are flat with one closed end,
especially for this purpose. They are
available free of charge for the asking-all
you have to do is find the right guy to
ask. Your automotive supply store is a
good place to begin.
To remove each piston, rotate the
crankshaft so the piston is at BDC (bottom
dead center). You'll have better access
than if it were at TDC, and the rod will
hang up between the crank throw and the
bottom of the cylinder bore if it's in the
middle of a stroke. Remove the nuts and
bearing cap. With the protectors on the
rod bolts , push the piston and rod assem-
bly out the top of the cylinder. To protect
your tender hands and knuckles, push on
the piston or rod with the end of a ham-
mer handle, using the hammer head as a
handle. As you remove each rod and pis-
ton, pu t the bearings to one side. Then
replace the cap on the rod and secure it
with the nuts and set them aside.
Bearings Tell a Story-Don't throw your
old connecting-rod or main bearings away
yet-keep them in order. They'll save you
the expense of farming much of your in-
46
Turn the crank throw of the piston you're
removing to BOC, then remove the rod cap.
Place journal protectors (arrows) over the rod
bolts and shove the piston and rod assembly
out the top of its bore while watching that the
rod doesn't hang up on the bottom of the
cylinder.
With all the rods and pistons out of the way you can loosen the main-bearing bolts. The bearing caps
should fit tightly in their registers so a little tap on the side with a hammer should pop them Toose
so they can be removed.
spection work out because how a bearing
wears is an accurate indication of the
condition of parts such as the crankshaft
and connecting rods. Therefore, as you
remove each bearing set, tape them to-
gether with some masking tape and record
which connecting rod or main cap the pair
went with. It'll be valuable later on in the
rebuild inspection and reconditioning
stage.
Remove the Crankshaft-After removing
the main-bearing bolts, you'll find the
main-bearing caps won't lift off like the
connecting-rod caps did. The main-bearing
caps fit tightly in registers machined in
the bottom of the main-bearing webs of
the block for accurate lateral (sideways)
location. To remove them, tap the end of
each cap while lifting up on it and it'll
pop right off.
For 165,000 miles this crank looks excellent. A good cleaning and it'll be ready Tor another 165
thou.
Now, suppose you can remove a main
cap without doing this and it's even loose
sideways in the cap register. This indicates
the cap or caps have been sprung or bent
from being overloaded, usually from t he
engine detonating. Detonation is a condi-
tion where the fuel charge explodes rather
than burning evenly. Detonation can be
caused by the use of a lower octane-rated
fuel than t he engine requires or excessively
high temperatures in the combustion
chamber for one reason or anot her. It is
commonly known as pinging or knocking.
If any of your bearing caps appear t o be
sprung they can be reused in your rebuilt
engine if i t is intended for normal street
and highway use. However, if you' re going
t o use it for racing, t he loose caps may
have t o be replaced. The block will then
require line boring or honing t o mat e t he
bearing bores in t he caps t o those in the
block and special bearings will have t o be
used.
When removing t he main caps, don' t
remove t he bearings yet . After you have
all the caps off lift the crankshaft straight
out of the block and set i t beside the
block. Place t he bearing caps by their cor-
responding journals so you can see t he
bearing inserts. By doing this you'll be able
t o relate any bearing problems t o the
crankshaft journal each bearing was fitted
t o. Record t he problem you discover with
any bearing and t he correspondingjournal
so you can take special care during your
crankshaft inspection and cleanup, and
possible reconditioning.
Removing the Cam-Two things are need-
ed before you can pull the cam out . The
most obvious is t o remove t he thrustplate
which keeps the cam from moving for-
ward. Remove t he 2 retaining bolts, and
then the plate, but don' t at t empt t o re-
move the cam just yet . If you do, t he re-
sult can be a damaged cam and lifters
caused by t he cam lobes and bearing jour-
nals running i nt o the lifters as t he cam is
moved forward. You'll have t o remove or
raise the lifters out of their bores far
enough so they'll clear t he cam as i t is
being pulled out .
Varnish builds up on the lifter just
below the lifter bore. Mike the diameter of
t he lifter at this point and you'll find its
outside diameter is larger than t he inside
diameter of the lifter bore, making it diffi-
cult or impossible t o remove through t he
bore.
The best way t o remove t he lifters is t o
remove the cam, then push t he lifters out
the bot t om of their bores. To do this
you'll have t o push t he Lifters up i nt o their
bores and keep them there so t he cam
lobes and bearing journals will clear. Keep
is t he key word. Keep t he lifters out of
the way by turning the block over or
standing i t on its rear face. To move the
lifters out of t he way, turn t he cam one rev-
olution using t he timing-chain-sprocket.
To st art t he cam moving forward, pry
it with a screwdriver bearing against the
back-side of a cam lobe and one of the
bearing webs. Get ready t o support t he
cam as it clear t he bearings, particularly if
Inspect the Bearings-Before. tossing out
ihe-main bearipgs take a look at them;
they'll tell you a Stbry. Bearing inserts are
-made\ fro~~,,plated copper-lead alloy or
lead-based babbit, both, on a steel backing
qn,sht$l. I f your engine has a lot bf'acces-
sories such '8s -power stgering and air con-
ditioning, the, front top bearing should be
worn more thl h the-other bearings due to
*rti'e~+igher vertical load imposed on the
crankshaft and bearing by the drive belts.
,This wear i s normal because of ,the way
thkc#gnk5haft i s loaded and should not
be a cause for any ctfncern. Foy the same
r&awn, wgar may also show up on the bot-
tom of the center bearings, particularly at
'iRe Second apd third journals. If the bear-
ings are copper-lead @I%, .a copppr color
- ~ l l l . . s h ~ ~ , eyenly through the tin plating.
This makes 'It easy t o distinguish wear
because of ,the contrasting cblors of the
tin and copper, As for the lead-base
bearitngs, it's_ more difficult to distinguish
wear because of the similar colors of the
' beqfiingxqnd backing.
You should beconcerned about uneven
wegr from front-to-back on the total cir-
cumyerenee of .ltbq. bearing (top and bot-
tom), scratches in ther-besting surface and
' a 'wiped bear"i,ng surface. The first condi-
tion indicates the bearing journal i s taper-
ed, its- dia-meter is not constant from one
end to the other, causing uneven baring
and lournal loading and uneven wear.
Scratches in the bearing surface mean
foreigp maerial in the oil passed between
the bearing and crankshaft journal. The
:usual cause of this i s dirty oil and an oil
filter which'clogged, resulting in the filter
being bypassed and t he oil going through
the engtne unfiltered. A wiped bearing
surface i s usually caused by the journal
-not receiving adequate lubrication. This
can be cabstid by periodic loss of oil
pressure from a low oil level inthe crank-
case, a~ologged oil passage or a malfunc-
tioning oil pump.*All these things have to
be checked and remedied when the prob-
lem is found. Also, any problem you may
For 165,000 miles this crank looks excellent. A good cleaning and it'll be ready for another 165
thou.
Now, suppose you can remove a main
cap without doing this and it's even loose
sideways in the cap register. This indicates
the cap or caps have been sprung or bent
from being overloaded, usually from the
engine detonating. Detonation is a condi -
tion where the fuel charge explodes rather
than burning evenly. Detonation can be
caused by the use of a lower octane-rated
fuel than the engine requires or excessively
high temperatures in the combustion
chamber for one reason or another. It is
commonly known as pinging or knocking.
If any of your bearing caps appear to be
sprung they can be reused in your rebuilt
engine if it is intended for normal street
and highway use. However, if you're going
to use it for racing, the loose caps may
have to be replaced. The block will then
require line boring or honing to mate the
bearing bores in the caps to those in the
block and special bearings will have to be
used .
When removing the main caps, don't
remove the bearings yet. After you have
all the caps off lift the crankshaft straight
out of the block and set it beside the
block. Place the bearing caps by their cor-
responding journals so you can see the
bearing inserts . By doing this you 'll be able
to relate any bearing problems to the
crankshaft journal each bearing was fitted
to. Record the problem you discover with
any bealing and the corresponding journal
so you can take special care during your
crankshaft inspection and cleanup, and
possible reconditioning.
Removing the Cam-Two things are need-
ed before you can pull the cam out. The
most obvious is to remove the thrust plate
which keeps the cam from moving for-
ward. Remove the 2 retaining bolts , and
then the plate, but don't attempt to re-
move the cam just yet. If you do, the re-
sult can be a damaged cam and lifters
caused by the cam lobes and bearing jour-
nals running in to the lifters as the cam is
moved forward. You'll have to remove or
raise the lifters out of their bores far
enough so they'll clear the cam as it is
being pulled out.
Varnish builds up on the lifter just
below the lifter bore. Mike the diameter of
the lifter at this point and you'll find its
ou tside diameter is larger than the inside
diameter of the lifter bore, making it diffi-
cult or impossible to remove through the
bore.
The best way to remove the lifters is to
remove the cam, then push the lifters out
the bottom of their bores. To do this
you'll have to push the lifters up into their
bores and keep them there so the cam
lobes and bearing journals will clear. Keep
is the key word. Keep the lifters out of
the way by turning the block over or
standing it on its rear face. To move the
lifters out of the way, tum the cam one rev-
olution using the timing-chain-sprocket.
To start the cam moving forward, pry
it with a screwdriver bearing against the
back-side of a cam lobe and one of the
bearing webs. Get ready to support the
cam as it clear the bearings, particularly if
Inspect the Bearings-Before tossing out
the main bearings take a look at them;
they'll tell you a story. Bearing inserts are
made from plated copper-lead alloy or
lead-based babbit, both on a steel backing
. or shell. If your engine has a lot of acces-
sories such as power steering and air con-
ditioning, the front top bearing should be
worn more than the other beari ngs due to
the higher vertical load imposed on the
crankshaft and bearing by the drive belts.
This wear is normal because of the way
the crankshaft is loaded and should not
be a cause for any concern. For the same
reason, we.ar may also show up on the bot-
. tom of the center bearings, particularly at
the second and third journals. If the bear-
ings are copper-lead type, a copper color
will show evenly through the tin plating.
This makeS it easy to distinguish wear
because of the contrasting colors of the
tin and copper. As' for the lead-base
bearings, it's more difficult to distinguish
wear because of the similar colors of the
bearing and backing.
You shOUld be concerned about uneven
wear from front-to-back on the total cir-
cumference of the bearing (top and bot-
tom). scratches in the bearing surface and
a wiped bearing surface. The first condi-
tion indicates the bearing jaumal is taper-
ed, its diameter is not constant from one
end to the other, causing uneven bearing
and journal loading and uneven wear.
Scratches in the bearing surface mean
foreign material. in the oil passed between
the bearing and crankshaft journal. The
usual cause of this is dirty oil and an oil
filter which clogged, resulting in the filter
being bypassed and the oil going through
the engine unfiltered. A wiped bearing
surface is usually caused by the journal
not receiving adequate lubrication. This
can be caused by periodic loss of oil
pressure from a low oil level in the crank-
case, a clogged oil passage or a malfunc-
tioning oil pump. All these things have to
be checked and remedied when the prob-
lem is found. Also, any problem you may
find with the bearings means there may be
damage to the crankshaft. Consequently
you should pay particular attention to
the crank journals which had bearing
damage to see if there is corresponding
damage to the crank.
The main bearings look good too. This is the
front one. Wear on the top bearing insert is
due to the high vertical load imposed by the
accessor ' -drive belts.
47
Pri or t o removi ng your camshaft you shoul d t ur n your engine bl ock upside down and push t he
valve l i f t ers away f r om t hei r cam lobes u p i nt o t hei r bores as f ar as they' l l go. Remove t he t hrust
pl at e and caref ul l y pr y t he camshaft f or war d unt i l it's free enough t o move b y hand. Sl i de it out t he
rest of t he way, bei ng careful not t o bang t he lobes i nt o t he bearings. Tr y t o save t he bearings as
t hey wear very l i t t l e and replacement requires special equi pment.
you are doing this with the block turned
over. If you are intent on saving your cam
bearings you should be doing this job
with the engine standing up for the simple
reason that gravity won't be working
against you. A hard cam lobe can easily
damage a soft cam bearing if the camshaft
is dropped.
Keep the Lifters in Order-With the cam
clear of the block, you'll be able to remove
the lifters through the bottom of their
bores. Before you start removing them,
make some arrangement to keep them in
order. If used lifters aren't installed in
correct order so they mate with the
original cam lobes, the mismatched lifters
and camshaft lobes will be literally wiped
out. You can use anything from a couple
These l i f t ers were so heavi l y varnished t hey had
t o be dri ven out . N o at t empt was made t o save
t hem or t he cam.
of egg cartons t o a board with 16 one-inch
diameter holes in two rows of 8. Just place
them in the same order they would be
viewed in as you look down into the lifter
valley. Make sure you indicate the front
of the engine on the device you are using
Now all you have to do is push the
lifters down through their bores. They'll
go relatively easily because each lifter
travels all the way down into its bore
which prevents varnish buildup on the
top part of the lifter. When pushing out
the lifters, make sure you have one hand
underneath ready t o catch each one as it
falls out to prevent damage. On the other
hand, if you don't plan t o reuse your cam
you can just push them out because you
won't be reusing them anyway.
Prior to removing your camshaft you should turn your engine block upside down and push the
valve lifters away from their cam lobes up into their bores as far as they'll go. Remove the thrust
plate and carefully pry the camshaft forward until it's free enough to move by hand. Slide it out the
rest of the way, being careful not to bang the lobes into the bearings. Try to save the bearings as
they wear very little and replacement requires special equipment.
48
you are doing thi s with the block turned
over. If you are intent on saving your cam
bearings you should be doing this job
with the engine standing up for the simple
reason that gravity won't be working
against you. A hard cam lobe can easily
damage a soft cam bearing if the camshaft
is dropped.
Keep the Lifters in Order-With the cam
clear of the block, you'JI be able to remove
the lifters through the bottom of their
bores. Before you start removing them,
make some arrangement to keep them in
order. If used lifters aren't installed in
correct order so they mate with the
original cam lobes, the mismatched lifters
and camshaft lobes will be literally wiped
out. You can use anything from a couple
These lifters were so heavily varnished they had
to be driven out. No attempt was made to save
them or the cam.
of egg cartons to a board with 16 one-inch
diameter holes in two rows of 8. Just place
them in the same order they would be
viewed in as you look down into the lifter
valley. Make sure you indicate the front
of the engine on the device you are using
to keep them in order .
Now all you have to do is push the
lifters down through their bores. They'll
go relatively easily because each lifter
travels all the way down into its bore
which prevents varnish buildup on the
top part of the lifter. When pushing out
the lifters, make sure you have one hand
underneath ready to catch each one as it
falls out to prevent damage. On the other
hand, if you don't plan to reuse your cam
you can just push them out because you
won't be reusing them anyway.
Ol d and new lifters. Ol d l i f t er is useless as it's worn f r om i ts new convex spherical shape t o a concave shape. The camshaft is also worn beyond reuse as
shown by t he wear pattern (arrow) across t he f ul l wi dt h of the lobe.
If your camshaft and l i fters are salvagable you must keep the l i fters i n order f or reinstallation i n their
original bores. I' m using a couple of egg cartons here.
Plugs, Cam Bearings and Things-After
the removal of t he lifters, your engine
block should be free of its moving parts.
What's left are t he oil-gallery pl ug, cam-
shaft bearings and rear plug, the oil
filter adapter and t he water-jacket freeze
plugs-if you didn't remove the freeze
plugs as suggested earlier in the chapter.
Oil-Gallery Plugs-There are 6 oil-gallery
plugs, 3 at t he front of the engine and 3
at the rear. The 3 at the front are soft
plugs and the 3 at the rear are threaded
i nt o t he block. If your engine is fairly
clean inside you needn' t remove these
threaded plugs because they can be diffi-
cult and it's probably unnecessary. How-
ever, if your engine is sludged up and fairly
di rt y, or you'll feel better if you do it-
here's how.
The three plugs at t he rear are usually
very tight. Removing them is difficult
L I
To cl ,,.. ..., ,.. ,,I,.,,, .,...,., ..., ..,... and rear -.. .,..,. , , . , , . . .., ...,., the f r ont cup-typ, ,.~gs by drilling, ..- .... ..-.- ... ...- --...-., -... --d
a sheet-metal screw i nt o t he plug. Now you have something t o get hol d of. Clamp ont o t he screw head wi t h some vi segri p@ pliers and pr y it out wi t h a
screwdriver.
Old and new lifters. Old lifter is useless as it's worn from its new convex spherical shape to a concave shape. The camshaft is also worn beyond reuse as
shown by the wear pattern (arrow) across the full width of the lobe.
If your camshaft and lifters are salvagable you must keep the lifters in order for reinstallation in their
original bores. I'm using a couple of egg cartons here.
Plugs, Cam Bearings and Things-After
the removal of the lifters, your engine
block should be free of its moving parts.
What's left are the oilgallery plugs, cam-
shaft bearings and rear plug, the oil
filter adapter and the water-jacket freeze
plugs-if you didn ' t remove the freeze
plugs as suggested earlier in the chapter.
Oil-Gallery Plugs-There are 6 oil-gallery
plugs, 3 at the front of the engine and 3
at the rear. The 3 at the fron t are soft
plugs and the 3 at the rear are threaded
into the block. If your engine is fairly
clean inside you needn't remove these
threaded plugs because they can be diffi-
cult and it's probably unnecessary. How-
ever, if your engine is sludged up and fairly
dirty , or you 'll feel better if you do it-
here's how.
The three plugs at the rear are usually
very tight. Removing them is difficult
To clean the oil passages, remove the front and rear oilgallery plugs. Remove the front cup-type plugs by drilling a 1/B-in. hole in the center, then thread '
a sheet-metal screw into the plug. Now you have something to get hold of . Clamp onto the screw head with some Vise.grip@ pliers and pry it out with a
screwdriver .
49
. .
, ,
,,::
. ,
.-',
: .'.
! . :
.: .'
. - I _
. C.,.. .< "" . : 0 .. '.. ., . ,
, dl)!
, . -,
.-.
- * --1-
If your cam bearings must be removed, here is one method of doing it-using a mandrel and drive bar. Mandrel must fi t the bearing I D, shoulder against
the bearing and clear the bearing bore in the block as the bearing is being removed. At least three mandrels are required because of the different bearing
sizes.
without rounding the square off first. Use
a tool which will minimize this possibil-
ity-such as a square socket. Chances are
you don't have one of these, so some
fairly large Vise-Grips@ are the next best
bet. They'll mess up the square somewhat
but you'll get the plug out. The front
plugs can be easily removed by driving
them out from the backside with a long
114-in. rod. If you don't have one handy
or haven't removed the threaded plugs,
the next approach is to drill a small hole
in each plug-118 in. will do. Thread a
sheet-metal screw into the hole and clamp
onto the screw head with a pair of Vise-
Grip@ pliers. Pry against the plier jaws
with a screwdriver until the plug comes
out.
Camshaft Bearings-Replacement cam
bearings are precision inserts which assume
the correct diameter after they are driven
into the block. Now, because the bearing
bores in the block are bored in line, or
line-bored, replacement bearings installed
using conventional methods should yield
the same alignment results as the original
factorv method.
I am explaining cam bearing installation
now so you'll understand the importance
of avoiding damage during teardown and
cleaning if you intend to reuse them. Be
aware that a hot-tank solution, so ideal
for cleaning cast iron and steel, dissolves
aluminum or babbit. However, the bear-
ings can be saved and the block cleaned if a
spray-jet tank is used, if the cleaning solu-
tion is not caustic.
Remember, camshaft bearings wear so
little that the normal set could outlast
two or three engines. With these points in
mind, you'll have t o decide now whether
you're going to attempt to save the bear-
ings or not.
Removing the Cam Bearings-If you are
entertaining thoughts about removing the
cam bearings yourself, don't! Unless you
have an engine machine shop or access to
camshaft bearing installation and removal
equipment and know-how t o use it, farm
this one out.
Cam-bearing tools vary in sophistica-
tion from a solid mandrel which fits
inside of its bearing-you need five man-
ings-to a more sophisticated collet man-
drel which expands to fit the bearing ID.
Both types of mandrels have a shoulder
which bears evenly against the bearing
shell for removing or installing a bearing.
The bearings are removed by a drive bar
which centers in the mandrel, or by a long
threaded rod which pulls the mandrel.
Either type is fine for bearing removal,
but the latter is the best for installation
because it ensures the bearing will be
square in its housing and to the cam
centerline. The chance of bearing damage
is minimal, particularly for someone who
doesn't do engine rebuilding on a regular
basis. I'll take up bearing installation
when it's time to do so. If you have the
equipment and have elected to remove
your cam bearings, do it now. Remove
the rear cam plug, then the bearings. Use
the same method you used on the front
oil-gallery plugs, or drive the plug from
the inside of the block.
Oil-Filter Adapter-With the removal of
the oil-filter adapter, your engine block
will be as bare as it's going to be with the
exception of the grease, dirt and old gas-
kets. All you'll need for removing the
adapter is a big socket-1-114-in. to be
exact. Just be careful when attempting
t o break the adapter loose. The chamfer
inside the socket will only allow a small
part of the hex to engage the socket flats.
Consequently, if the socket slips once,
the hex will round off and you'll have an
increasingly difficult time getting it off.
So to break the adapter loose, pusn on
the socket to prevent the socket from
slipping off the hex. If you are going to
do a lot of work on these engines, grind the
socket end t o eliminate the chamfer, there-
by making adapter removal super easy.
With the removal of the oil-filter adap-
ter, your engine block should be com-
pletely bare.
When removing the oil-filter adapter, shove against the socket t o keep it from slipping and
rounding off the corners of the hex.
If your cam bearings must be removed, here is one method of doing it-using a mandrel and drive bar. Mandrel must fit the bearing I D, shoulder against
the bearing and clear the bearing bore in the block as the bearing is being removed. At least three mandrels are required because of the different bearing
sizes.
without rounding the square off first. Use
a tool which will minimize this possibil-
ity-such as a square socket. Chances are
you don't have one of these, so some
fairly large Vise-Grips are the next best
bet. They'll mess up the square somewhat
but you'll get the plug out. The front
plugs can be easily removed by driving
them out from the backside with a long
1/4-in. rod. If you don't have one handy
or haven't removed the threaded plugs,
the next approach is to drill a small hole
in each plug-1/8 in. will do. Thread a
sheet-metal screw into the hole and clamp
onto the screw head with a pair of Vise-
Grip pliers. Pry against the pJier jaws
with a screwdriver until the plug comes
out.
Camshaft Bearings-Replacement cam
bearings are precision inserts which assume
the correct diameter after they are driven
into the block. Now, because the bearing
bores in the block are bored in line, or
line-bored, replacement bearings installed
using conven tional methods should yield
the same alignment results as the original
factory method.
I am explaining cam bearing installa tion
now so you'll un derstand the importance
of avoiding damage during teardown and
cleaning if you intend to reuse them. Be
aware that a hot-tank solution, so ideal
for cleaning cast iron and steel, dissolves
aluminum or babbit. However , the bear-
ings can be saved and the block cleaned if a
spray-jet tank is used, if the cleaning solu-
tion is not caustic.
Remember, camshaft bearings wear so
little that the normal set could outlast
two or three engines. With these points in
mind, you'1I have to decide now whether
you're going to attempt to save the bear-
ings or not.
Removing the Cam Bearings-If you are
entertaining thoughts about removing the
50
cam bearings yourself, don't! Unless you
have an engine machine shop or access to
camshaft bearing installation and removal
equipment and know-how to use it, farm
this one out.
Cam-bearing tools vary in sophistica-
tion from a solid mandrel which fits
inside of its bearing-you need five man-
ings-to a more sophisticated collet man-
drel which expands to fit the bearing ro.
Both types of mandrels have a shoulder
which bears evenly against the bearing
shell for removing or installing a bearing.
The bearings are removed by a drive bar
which centers in the mandrel, or by a long
threaded rod which pulls the mandrel.
Either type is fine for bearing removal,
but the latter is the best for installation
because it ensures the bearing will be
square in its housing and to the cam
centerline. The chance of bearing damage
is minimal, particularly for someone who
doesn't do engine rebuilding on a regular
basis. I'll take up bearing installation
when it's time to do so. If you have the
equipment and have elected to remove
your cam bearings, do it now. Remove
the rear cam plug, then the bearings. Use
the same method you used on the front
oil-gallery plugs, or drive the plug from
the inside of the block.
Oil-Filter Adapter-With the removal of
the oil-filter adapter, your engine block
will be as bare as it's going to be with the
exception of the grease, dirt and old gas-
kets. All you'll need for removing the
adapter is a big socket-I-1/4-in. to be
exact. Just be careful when attempting
to break the adapter loose. The chamfer
inside the socket will only allow a small
part of the hex to engage the socket flats .
Consequently, if the socket slips once,
the hex will round off and you'll have an
increasingly difficult time getting it off.
So to break the adapter loose, push on
the socket to prevent the socket from
slipping off the hex. If you are going to
do a lot of work on these engines, grind the
socket end to eliminate the chamfer, there-
by making adapter removal super easy.
With the removal of the oil-filter adap-
ter, your engine block should be com-
pletely bare.
When removing the oil-filter adapter, shove against the socket to keep it from slipping and
rounding off the corners of the hex.
\
*'
HP289
racing,
shown
vacuun
Inspecting and
Reconditioning
5
the Shortblock
provides fierce competition i n professional and amateur
yet i t remains a practical street engine. Vacuum can
on the distributor is not correct. HP289 did not use
n advance. Photo courtesy Ford.
Most people have an inherent knack
when i t comes t o taking things apart, so
I'll assume you've had no real problems
t o this point. Problems usually occur dur-
ing t he inspection, reconditioning and as-
sembly processes, but don' t show up until
the engine is back in the vehicle and
running-or not running. More often than
not , goofs are due t o insufficient infor-
mation which translates i nt o a lack of
knowledge. I've tried t o include all t he
information you will need. Special at t en-
tion has been paid toward including
information which is especially hard t o
get anywhere else. Therefore, if you apply
this information with an abundance of
common sense and a reasonable amount
of care, your rebuilt engine should per-
form better than when i t was new.
CYLINDER-BLOCK CLEANING AND
INSPECTION
One of t he most i mport ant jobs is t o
clean each component that will go back
i nt o your engine. After you've cleaned
everything so thoroughly you are sick of
i t , you'll have t o keep all of it clean.
Getting It Clean-If for no ot her reason,
the size and complexity of an engine
block makes i t t he most difficult com-
ponent t o clean. The job must be done
right because t he block is the basic
foundation which is responsible for sup-
porting, cooling and lubricating all t he
other components. Consequently, if t he
cleaning job is short-circuited, one or all
of these functions will be compromised,
so get it clean!
Before destroying the evidence, in-
spect the head gaskets for leaks. They
will show up as rust streaks on the
cylinder-head or cylinder-block mating
surfaces if it is a coolant leak, or black
or gray streaks radiating from a combus-
tion chamber in t he case of a more harm-
ful compression leak. If you find a
compression leak connecting a combustion
chamber with a water passage, you prob-
ably experienced trouble with coolant
loss due t o t he coolant system being
over-pressurized. On the ot her hand, a
compression leak vented t o t he atmos-
phere or another cylinder will have shown
up only if you performed a compression
check on t he engine prior t o tearing it
down. If you discover a leak, check the
block and head gasket surfaces for warp-
age or ot her imperfections after you have
t hem well cleaned. One type of leak t o
be particularly watchful for is t he t ype
connecting t wo cylinders. Check t he
block for notching at this poi nt . Notch-
ing occurs when hot exhaust gases remove
metal much in the same manner as an
acetylene torch. Notching is more preva-
l ent with racing engines, but it also
happens when any engine is driven a long
time before a blown gasket is fixed.
Check the severity of any notches after
cleaning the block's deck (head-gasket)
surface.
Scrape The Gaskets Off-Get t he worst
job out of t he way first by scraping all
t he gasket-sealing surfaces. A gasket
scraper is a tool specifically designed for
the job. Now's the time t o invest in one.
If you try doing the job with. a put t y
knife or a screwdriver and then switch
t o a gasket scraper, you' ll find out what
I mean. You could've saved t he skinned
knuckles, bad temper and loads of time.
Surfaces which will need scraping are the
t wo cylinder decks-which are the mean-
est-the front-cover, oil-pan, intake-mani-
fold and oil-pump gasket surfaces. Don' t
st op with the block. While you' re at i t , do
the heads and intake manifold t oo.
Boil It , Spray It or Hose It Off-The
cleaning process can be handled several
ways. Probably the best method is t o
truck the block t o your local engine
rebuilder for hot tanking. This process
involves boiling the block for several
hours i n a solution of caustic soda-the
longer it's i n, t he cleaner it'll be. Don' t
just have the block done, have the crank-
shaft , heads and all the other cast-iron
and steel parts done at t he same time.
Throw in the nut s, bolts and washers t oo,
but don't include any aluminum, pot
metal, plastic or materials you'll want to
see again because, like t he cam bearings,
t he hot t ank will dissolve them! Now, if
you are determined t o retain your cam
bearings, you'll have t o find a rebuilder
who uses a non-caustic spray degreaser.
Volkswagen engine rebuilders often use
this type of cleaner because of the wide
use of aluminum in VW engines. Other
techniques you can employ are steaming,
engine cleaner and t he local car wash, or
t he garden hose with cleaner, detergent
and a scrub brush. Regardless of which
method you use, concentrate on the en-
gine's interior, particularly the oil gal-
leries and holes. Use a rag with a wire t o
drag i t through t he galleries. Resort t o
round brushes, pipe cleaners or whatever,
but pay particular attention t o the oiling
system. Many supermarkets carry nylon
coffee percolator brushes which are suited
t o this job. Gun brushes work well t oo.
Team these up with Ford' s Carburetor
and Combustion Chamber Cleaner and
you'll be able t o do an excellent cleaning
job.
Don't Forget t he Threads-After you
think you've gotten the block as clean as
it's going t o get, chase the threaded holes
Most people have an inherent knack
when it comes to taking things apart, so
I'll assume you've had no real problems
to this point. Problems usually occur dur-
ing the inspection, reconditioning and as-
sembly processes , but don't show up until
the engine is back in the vehi cle and
running-or not running. More often than
not , goofs are due to insufficient infor-
mation which translates into a lack of
knowledge . I've tried to include all the
information you will need. Special atten-
tion has been paid toward including
information which is especially hard to
get anywhere else. Therefore, if you apply
this information with an abundance of
common sense and a reasonable amount
of care, your rebuilt engine should per-
form better than when it was new.
CYLINDER-BLOCK CLEANING AND
INSPECTION
One of the most important jobs is to
clean each component that will go back
into your engine . After you've cleaned
everything so thoroughly you are sick of
it, you'll have to keep all of it clean.
Getting It Clean-If for no other reason,
the size and complexity of an engine
block makes it the most difficult com-
ponent to clean. The job must be done
right because the block is the basic
foundation which is responsible for sup-
porting, cooling and lubricating all the
other components. Consequently , if the
cleaning job is short-circuited, one or all
of these functions will be compromised,
so get it clean'
Before destroying the evidence, in-
spect the head gaskets for leaks. They
will show up as rust streaks on the
Inspecting and 5
Reconditioning
the Shortblock
HP289 provides fierce competition in professional and amateur
racing, yet it remains a practical street engine. Vacuum can
shown on the distributor is not correct. HP289 did not use
vacuum advance. Photo courtesy Ford.
cylinder-head or cylinder-block mating
surfaces if it is a coolant leak, or black
or gray streaks radiating from a combus-
tion chamber in the case of a more harm-
ful compression leak. If you find a
compression leak connecting a combustion
chamber with a water passage , you prob-
ably experienced trouble with coolant
loss due to the coolant system being
over-pressurized. On the other hand , a
compression leak vented to the atmos-
phere or another cylinder will have shown
up only if you performed a compression
check on the engine prior to tearing it
down . If you discover a leak, check the
block and head gasket surfaces for warp-
age or other imperfections after you have
them well cleaned. One type of leak to
be particularly watchful for is the type
connecting two cylinders . Check the
block for notching at this point. Notch-
ing occurs when hot exhaust gases remove
metal much in the same manner as an
acetylene torch. Notching is more preva-
lent with racing engines, but it also
happens when any engine is driven a long
time before a blown gasket is fixed.
Check the severity of any notches after
cleaning the block's deck (head-gaSket)
surface.
Scrape The Gaskets Off-Get the worst
job out of the way first by scraping all
the gasket-sealing surfaces. A gasket
scraper is a tool specifically designed for
the job. Now' s the time to invest in one.
If you try doing the job with a putty
knife or a screwdriver and then switch
to a gasket scraper, you'll find out what
I mean. You could've saved the skinned
knuckles, bad temper and loads of time.
Surfaces which will need scraping are the
two cylinder decks-which are the mean-
est-the front-cover, oil-pan, intake-mani-
fold and oil-pump gasket surfaces . Don't
stop with the block. While you ' re at it, do
the heads and in take manifold too.
Boil It, Spray It or Hose It Off-The
cleaning process can be handled several
ways. Probably the best method is to
truck the block to your local engine
rebuilder for hot tanking. This process
involves boiling the block for several
hours in a solution of caustic soda-the
longer it's in , the cleaner it'll be. Don't
just have the block done, have the crank-
shaft, heads and all the other cast-iron
and steel parts done at the same time .
Throw in the nuts , bolts and washers too,
but don't include any aluminum, pot
metal, plastic or materials you'll want to
See again because, like the cam bearings,
the hot tank will dissolve them! Now, if
you are determined to retain your cam
bearings, you'll have to find a rebuilder
who uses a non-caustic spray degreaser .
Volkswagen engine rebuilders often use
this type of cleaner because of the wide
use of aluminum in VW engines. Other
techniques you can employ are steaming,
engine cleaner and the local car wash , or
the garden hose with cleaner, detergent
and a scrub brush. Regardless of which
method you use, concentrate on the en-
gine's interior , particularly the oil gal-
leries and holes. Use a rag with a wire to
drag it through the galleries. Resort to
round brushes , pipe cleaners or whatever,
but pay particular attention to the oiling
system. Many supermarkets carry nylon
coffee percola tor brushes which are suited
to this job. Gun brushes work well too .
Team these up with Ford's Carburetor
and Combustion Chamber Cleaner and
you'll be able to do an excellent cleaning
job.
Don't Forget the Threads-After you
think you've gotten the block as clean as .
it's going to get , chase the threaded holes
51
Someone has t o do it. Make sure all the gasket
surfaces are scraped clean of old gasket material.
in the block. All that's involved in chas-
ing a thread is running a tap all the way
in the thread t o clean it. A bottom tap,
as opposed to a taper tap, which is used
to start a thread, is the best type to use.
You'll be shocked at the amount of crud
the tap will extract from the threads,
particularly after the "spic-and-span" job
you gave the block. This procedure is
especially important for the bolts which
must be torqued during assembly such as
the head-bolt and main-bearing-cap-bolt
threads. The sizes are 1/2-13 (112-in.
diameter, 13 threads per in.) for all small
blocks except the 351 which uses a 9116-
12 thread.
Now go after the water passages. Re-
move any loose rust, deposits and core
sand. Pay particular attention t o the pass-
ages which connect the cylinder heads t o
the block t o ensure a good flow of water
between the block and heads. A round,
or rat-tail file works well for this job, but
be careful of the cylinder-head gasket
surfaces. A deep gouge can be respon-
sible for a head-gasket leak. Give the same
treatment to the cylinder heads.
During all this scrubbing, scraping and
general clean-up, a source of compressed
air for forcing dirt out of hard-to-get-at
areas and drying the block of moisture
will be a definite help. Controlling mois-
ture becomes more of a problem as you
recondition more and more of the various
engine parts. Bearing surfaces, cylinder
bores, valve seats and any machined
surface will rust just from the humidity in
the air. Prevent this by coating the ma-
chined surfaces with oil after cleaning.
Several brands of spray-on oil are avail-
able at your local store, such as WD40Q
or CRC@. They'll do the job with a lot
less fuss and mess than trying t o use a
squirt can of motor oil. Whatever you
use, don't leave any freshly machined
surfaces unoiled or they will rust for sure.
Why is Len smiling? This block is being hot-
tanked. Don't have your block cleaned by this
method if you intend t o save your cam bearings
or they'll have to be replaced for sure.
'
CY LINDER-BLOCK FINAL
INSPECTION AND RECONDITIONING
Inspecting the engine block to deter-
mine what must be done to put it back in
tip-top condition is your first recondi-
tioning step. To perform a satisfactory
job of inspection you'll need 3- to 4-in.
inside and outside micrometers, a very
straight edge and some feeler gauges.
You'll also need a 2- to 3-in. outside mike
for checking your crankshaft main- and
rod-bearing journals. You may not need
the straight edge if the head-gasket seal
checked OK. If the old gasket didn't
leak, the new one won't either if it's
installed correctly.
Checking Bore Wear-Cylinder-bore wear
dictates whether they need boring or just
honing. This will, in turn, largely deter-
mine if you have t o install new pistons-
no small investment.
You can use three methods t o check
bore wear. The best is a dial-bore gauge,
but you probably won't have access t o
one of these, so let's look at the remain-
ing methods. Next in the order of ac-
curacy is the inside micrometer or tele-
scope gauge and an outside mike. The last
method involves using a piston ring and
feeler gauges to compare end-gaps at
different positions in a bore. These will
correlate to the bore's taper.
Bore Taper-Cylinder walls don't wear
the same from top t o bottom. A bore
wears more at its top with decreasing
wear down the bore. There's virtually no
wear at the bottom of a cylinder. More
pressure is exerted on the cylinder walls
by the compression rings at the top of
Pay particular attention to the oil galleries
when cleaning your cylinder block. Steam does
the best job.
the stroke, decreasing through the length
of the stroke as the piston travels down
the cylinder. The bottom of the cylinder
is well lubricated, stabilizes the piston
and receives little wear. This is shown by
the upper part of the bores which are
shiny-while the bottom retains its origi-
nal cross-hatch or hone marks put there
in the factory. A vertical section through
the cylinder wall shows this taper when
compared to a section through an unworn
cylinder.
Measuring Taper-Because a bore wears
little at the bottom, if you compare the
distance across the bore at the bottom
versus that at the top, just below the
ridge, you'll be able to determine its
taper. Also, bores don't wear evenly all
the way around, nor do all cylinders
wear the same. Therefore, when measur-
ing a bore, ,measure it parallel to the
cenoterline of the engine first, and then
90 t o the centerline. Take a couple of
measurements in between and use the
highest figure. It will determine what and
how much will have t o be done to that
cylinder t o restore it. Also, because it's
not practical t o treat each cylinder sep-
arately, you'll have to pinpoint the one
with the worst taper and let it be the
gauge of what must be done to the re-
maining seven cylinders. One exception
t o this rule is when one cylinder is dam-
aged or worn beyond the point where it
can't be restored by boring and the other
cylinders are OK. Ih this case, it might
be less expensive to have the cylinder
sleeved rather than junking the block and
buying another one.
Someone has to do it. Make sure all the gasket
surfaces are scraped clean of old gasket material.
in the block. All that's involved in chas-
ing a thread is running a tap all the way
in the thread to clean it. A bottom tap,
as opposed to a taper tap , which is used
to start a thread, is the best type to use.
You 'll be shocked at the amount of crud
the tap will extract from the threads,
particularly after the "spic-and-span" job
you gave the block. This procedure is
especially important for the bolts which
must be torqued during assembly such as
the head-bolt and main-bearing-cap-bolt
threads . The sizes are 1/2-13 O/2-in.
diameter, 13 threads per in.) for all small
blocks except the 351 which uses a 9/16-
12 thread .
Now go after the water passages. Re-
move any loose rust, deposits and core
sand. Pay particular a tten tion to the pass-
ages which connect the cylinder heads to
the block to ensure a good flow of water
between the block and heads. A round,
or rat-tail file works well for this job, but
be careful of the cylinder-head gasket
surfaces. A deep gouge can be respon-
sible for a head-gasket leak. Give the same
treatment to the cylinder heads.
During all this scrubbing, scraping and
general clean-up, a source of compressed
air for forcing dirt out of hard-to-get-at
areas and drying the block of moisture
will be a definite help. Con trolling mois-
ture becomes more of a problem as you
recondition more and more of the various
engine parts . Bearing surfaces, cylinder
bores, valve seats and any machined
surface will rust just from the humidity in
the air. Prevent this by coating the ma-
chined surfaces with oil after cleaning.
Several brands of spray-on oil are avail-
able at your local store, such as WD40
or CRC. They'll do the job with a lot
less fuss and mess than trying to use a
squirt can of motor oil. Whatever you
use, don't leave any freshly machined
surfaces unoiled or they will rust for sure .
52
Why is Len smiling? This block is being hot
tanked. Don't have your block cleaned by this
method if you intend to save your cam bearings
or they'll have to be replaced for sure.
CYLINDER-BLOCK FINAL
INSPECTION AND RECONDITIONING
Inspecting the engine block to deter-
mine what must be done to put it back in
tip-top condition is your first recondi-
tioning step. To per form a satisfactory
job of inspection you'll need 3- to 4-in .
inside and outside micrometers , a very
straight edge and some feeler gauges .
You'll also need a 2- to 3-in. outside mike
for checking your crankshaft main and
rod-bearing journals . You may not need
the straightedge if the head-gasket seal
checked OK. If the old gasket didn't
leak, the new one won't either if it's
installed correctly.
Checking Bore Wear-Cylinder-bore wear
dictates whether they need boring or just
honing. This will, in turn, largely deter-
mine if you have to install new pistons-
no small investment.
You can use three methods to check
bore wear. The best is a dialbore gauge,
but you probably won't have access to
one of these, so let's look at the remain-
ing methods. Next in the order of ac-
curacy is the inside micrometer or tele
scope gauge and an outside mike . The last
method involves using a piston ring and
feeler gauges to compare endgaps at
differen t positions in a bore. These will
correIa te to the bore's taper.
Bore Taper-Cylinder walls don't wear
the same from top to bottom. A bore
wears more at its top with decreasing
wear down the bore . There's virtually no
wear at the bottom of a cylinder. More
pressure is exerted on the cylinder walls
by the compression rings at the top of
Pay particular attention to the oil galleries
when cleaning your cylinder block. Steam does
the best job.
the stroke, decreasing through the length
of the stroke as the piston travels down
the cylinder. The bottom of the cylinder
is well lubricated, stabilizes the piston
and receives little wear. This is shown by
the upper part of the bores which are
shiny-while the bottom retains it s origi-
nal cross-hatch or hone marks put there
in the factory. A vertical section through
the cylinder wall shows this taper when
compared to a section through an unworn
cylinder.
Measuring Taper-Because a bore wears
little at the bottom, if you compare the
distance across the bore at the bottom
versus that at the top, just below the
ridge , you'll be able to determine its
taper. Also , bores don ' t wear evenly all
the way around, nor do all cylinders
wear the same. Therefore , when measur-
ing a bore , measure it parallel to the
centerline of the engine first, and then
90 to the centerline. Take a couple of
measurements in between and use the
highest figure. It will determine what and
how much will have to be done to that
cylinder to restore it. Also, because it's
not practical to treat each cylinder sep-
arately, you'll have to pinpoint the one
with the worst taper and let it be the
gauge of what must be done to the re-
maining seven cylinders. One exception
to this rule is when one cylinder is dam-
aged or worn beyond the point where it
can't be restored by boring and the other
cylinders are OK. In this case, it might
be less expensive to have the cylinder
sleeved rather than junking the block and
buying another one.
Lubrication system of the small-block-Ford engine. Photo courtesy Ford.
You'll notice when checlung bore
wear t hat t he end cylinders are worn the
most. The reason is t he cooler a cylinder
operates, t he more i t wears. This wear is
concentrated at the portion of the end
cylinder wall closest t o t he ends of t he
cylinder block in cylinders 1, 4, 5 and 8.
A quick way t o verify what I've said is t o
compare the ridges of each cylinder by
feeling them with your finger t i p, par-
ticularly the variation in thickness of t he
ridges in t he end cylinders. Because of t he
wear pattern in the end cylinders, wear
measured parallel to engin: centerline will
exceed that measured 90 t o t he center-
line.
Due t o uneven cylinder bore wear,
taper, or the difference between t he worn
and unworn portion of a bore, measuring
will not provide a final figure of how
much a cylinder must be bored t o clean i t
up, or completely expose new metal for
t he full length of a bore. The reason
is uneven wear shifts a bore's centerline
in t he direction of maximum wear, giving
it an irregular shape. To restore a cylinder
t o its original centerline usually requires
removing more metal than indicated by
the taper figure. As a result, final bore-
size determination is made at the time of
boring. If a cylinder bore does not clean
up at 0.010 in. oversize, the machinist
has t o bore t o 0.020 in., the next avail-
able oversize. He starts boring the cylin-
der with the worst wearltaper because
this should establish t he maximum bore
for all of the cylinders.
Dial-Bore Gauge or Micrometer Method-
When using a bore gauge or mikes t o
CYLINDER-WALL WEAR VS OPERATING TEMPERATURE
60-HOUR TEST
Pay particular attention to details. Here I'm
using a tap to chase the main-bearing threads .
Why you should always use a thermostat. Bore wear increases d;amatically as an engine is operated and a rat-tail file t o remove rust from the water-
cooler than 180F (82OC). Data courtesy Continental Motors.
passage openings in the block.
WEAR
(I N. )
- 0.010
0.009
0.008
0.007
0.006
0.005
0.004
0.003
0.002
0.001
0
- - j 4 4 1 * 0 TEMPERATURE ( OF) 2i0
Lubrication system of the small-block-Ford engine. Photo courtesy Ford.
You'l1 noti ce when checking bore
wear that the end cylinders are worn the
most. The reason is the cooler a cylinder
operates, the more it wears. This wear is
concentrated at the portion of the end
cylinder wall closest to the ends of the
cylinder block in cylinders I , 4, 5 and 8.
A quick way to verify what I've said is to
compare the ridges of each cylinder by
feeling them with your finger tip , par-
ticularly the variation in thickness of the
ridges in the end cylinders. Because of the
wear pattern in the end cylinders, wear
measured parallel to engine centerline will
exceed that measured 90 to the center-
line .
Due to uneven cyl inder bore wear,
taper, or the difference between the worn
and unworn portion of a bore, measuring
will not provide a final figure of how
much a cylinder must be bored to clean it
up, or completely expose new metal for
the full length of a bore. The reason
is uneven wear shi fts a bore's centerline
in the direction of maximum wear, giving
it an irregular shape. To restore a cylinder
CYLINDER-WALL WEAR VS OPERATING TEMPERATURE
60-HOUR TEST
0.010
0.009
0.008
0.007
0.006
WEAR 0.005
(IN.)
0.004
0.003
0.002
0.001
0
40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200
TEMPERATURE (oF)
Why you should always use a thermostat. Bore wear increases as an engine is operated
cooler than 180 F (82Cl. Data courtesy Continental Motors.
to its original cen terline usually requires
removing more metal than indicated by
the taper figure. As a result, final bore-
size determination is made at the time of
boring. If a cylinder bore does not clean
up at 0.0]0 in. oversize, the machinist
has to bore to 0.020 in., the next avail-
able oversize. He starts boring the cylin-
der with the worst wear/taper because
this should establish the maximum bore
for all of the cylinders.
Dial-Bore Gauge or Micrometer Method-
When using a bore gauge or mikes to
Pay particular attention to details. Here I'm
using a tap to chase the main-bearing threads
and a rat-tail file to remove rust from the water-
passage openings in the block.
53
Checking bore taper with a dial-bore gauge.
Bore wear is read directly.
TAPER 1
0.000 0.0000
0.001 0.0003
0.005 0.001 6
0.01 0 0.0032
0.01 5 0.0048
0.020 0.0064
0.025 0.0080
0.030 0.0095
0.035 0.01 11
0.040 0.01 27
0.045 0.0143
0.050 0.01 59
Approximate Taper = 0.30 X AG
Using ring end-gap t o determine bore taper. Maximum ring gap is found with the ring placed im-
mediately below the ridge. Minimum gap is measured with ring pushed down in the unworn section
measure taper, measure the point of max-
of the bore. Use a piston inserted upsidedown in the bore t o square the ring up before checking gap.
imum wear immediately below the ridge,
After finding the maximum difference between two end-gap readings, use this curve or chart to de-
termine bore wear, AG is the difference between G, and G, .
Because the wear will be irregular, take
several measurements around the bore to
determine maximum wear. To determine
taper, subtract the figure at the bottom
of the bore from the maximum bore at
the top.
Ring-and-Feeler-Gauge Method-Measur-
ing bore wear with a ring and feeler gauge
is going about it indirectly. When using
this method, you actually compare the
difference between the circumferences of
the worn and the unworn bore. The ac-
curacy of this method is less the more
irregularly a cylinder is worn, however it
is accurate enough to determine if you'll
need to bore and fit oversize pistons or
clean your pistons, hone the bores and
install moly rings.
To use the ring-and-gauge method,
place a ring in the cylinder and compare
the difference in ring gaps with the ring
at the bottom of the bore and with it at
the top of the bore-immediately below
the ridge. Use the same ring. The ring
must be square in the bore to get an ac-
curate reading. To square the ring, push
the ring down the cylinder with a bare
piston-no rings-to where you want t o
check ring gap. Do this with your feeler
gauges and record the results. After mea-
suring the ring-gap difference, use the
accompanying chart or graph to deter-
mine bore taper. Note that taper is
approximately 0.3 times ring end-gap
difference.
How Much Taper Is Permissible?-To
answer this question, ask yourself how
many more good miles you want out of
your engine. Do you want it to last
10,000, 20,000, or 100,000 more miles
before the oil consumption takes off? If
your engine has excessive taper, even new
rings will quickly fatigue and quit sealing.
They must expand and contract every
stroke of the piston t o conform t o the
TAPER VS RI NG END-GAP DIFFERENCE
TAPER =
G2 - G1
3.14
0.015 -
-
I o
z -
-
lr 0,010 -
w
0.005 -
0
0 0.010 0.020 0.030 0.040 0.050
G2 - GI (INCH)
Checking bore taper with a dialbore gauge.
Bore wear is read directly.
measure taper, measure the point of max-
imum wear immediately below the ridge.
Because the wear will be irregular, take
several measurements around the bore to
determine maximum wear. To determine
taper, subtract the figure at the bottom
of the bore from the maximum bore at
the top.
Ring-and-Feeler-Gauge Method-Measur-
ing bore wear with a ring and feeler gauge
is going abou t it indirec tly. When using
this method, you actually compare the
difference between the circumferences of
the worn and the unworn bore. The ac-
curacy of this method is less the more
irregularly a cylinder is worn, however it
is accurate enough to determine if you'l1
need to bore and fit oversize pistons or
clean your pistons, hone the bores and
install moly rings.
To use the ringand-gauge method,
place a ring in the cylinder and compare
the difference in ring gaps with the ring
at the bottom of the bore and with it at
the top of the bore-immediately below
the ridge. Use the same ring. The ring
must be square in the bore to get an ac-
curate reading. To square the ring, push
the ring down the cylinder with a bare
piston-no rings-to where you want to
check ring gap . Do this with your feeler
gauges and record the results. After mea
suring the ringgap difference, use the
accompanying chart or graph to deter
mine bore taper. Note that taper is
approximately 0.3 times ring end-gap
difference.
How Much Taper Is Permissible? - To
answer this question, ask yourself how
many more good miles you want out of
your engine. Do you want it to last
10,000, 20,000, or 100,000 more miles
before the oil consumption takes off? If
your engine has excessive taper, even new
rings will quickly fatigue and quit sealing.
They must expand and contract every
stroke of the piston to conform to the
54
G2-G,
l>G
0.000
0.001
0.005
0.010
0.015
0.020
0.025
0.030
0.035
0.040
0.045
0.050
TAPER
0.0000
0.0003
0.0016
0.0032
0.0048
0.0064
0.0080
0.0095
0.0111
0.0127
0.0143
0.0159
Approximate Taper = 0.30 X 6G
Using ring endgap to determine bore taper. Maximum ring gap is found with the ring placed im
mediately below the ridge. Minimum gap is measured with ring pushed down in the unworn section
of the bore. Use a piston inserted upsidedown in the bore to square the ring up before checking gap.
After finding the maximum difference between two endgap readings, use this curve or chart to de
termine bore wear. c:.G is the difference between G
2
and G I'
I
<.)
Z
0.015
a: 0.010
UJ
Cl..
<t:
I-
0.005
o
o
TAPER VS RING ENDGAP DIFFERENCE
G2 - G,
TAP E R = ---='------'-
3.14
0.010 0.020
I
<.)
Z
II)
N
q
o
O.OOS-INCH TAPER
0.030 0.040
G
2
- G, (INCH)
0.050
L - -
SLEEVIMG AN ENGlNe ,.'4 .
A sleeve is basically a portablC eClqi
'
cylinder. It is ured to replace &.a$,
a cracked, scored or otherwise damage1:
bore t hat can' t be restored by conven-
tional boring and honlng t e c h n i q u ~ h ,
expenditure of only $20 t o $3 :tfff,
slewing a cylinder can save you the*%
of a new or used engine
c k ~ a s t - i r o n cylinder which is
' tbn@k t han t he length of t he
the engine it IS made for. It
ID t han t he original bore for finishi
stock and a wall thickness varying ,$tg
3/32 to 118 in.
+A* '-1
y.q
To install a sleeve, t he damaged cyli&?
der must first be bored to a size 0.00'1&>
less t han t he OD of t he sleeve. Rat
than boring all t he way t o t he bot t om
the bore, the boring m c h ~ n e is stop
just short to leave a step, or shoulder
back in operation. Some
more than 0.001"
t he sleeve and t he
this overstresses
neighboring cyl hql ~r r , ~nr e que nt l y~' l d$
0.001 f i g u r ~ be .&-~&i'.t$;-'
When an &@'Ii-i? 1~1 r&d~lb@~b' trt' Bil,
it should pe evenly w ~ . u,p using a
;,@@i,~hft~& gt wtmever.:<ii he bMli
Mfi w~. . pi r ' , $k stin4 t h e the' Mwd4i
~~ocdbd'ta riiilnk It-# qfrl ~@at %*
works great for this. The sleeve will
almost drop all t he way into t he cylinder,
however it will quickly rise t o t he same
temperature as t he block, assuming its
interference fit. Then it must be pressed
or driven in t he rest of t he way and sealed
at t he bot t om. Some shops don' t bother
with heating and cooling and drive in t he
sleeves in all t he way. The excess length
of t he sleeve protruding from t he block is
trimmed flush with t he deck surface. The
block is now restored and t he sleeved
cylinder is bored t o match ot her cylinders.
varying bore. Consequently, they lose
their resiliency, or springiness. Also,
because ring gap must be the correct
minimum dimension at t he bot t om of
the bore, if the engine has taper, the gap
will be larger at t he t op where compres-
sion pressures are t he highest. The results
are reduced combustion pressure, lost
power and increased blow-by.
Therefore, if you just want a "band-
aid" job on your engine so it will go
another 10,000, maybe 20, 000 miles
before you're right back where you
started, you can get away with reringing
a block which has some cylinders measur-
ing as much as 0.010" taper. If you are
Checking piston-skirt-to-bore clearance. I f it's Embossed pattern (arrow) rolled into this
0.008 in. or more you should rebore. piston's skirt is a knurl. It's a temporary fix for
taking up clearance between a worn bore and
piston. Photo by David Vizard.
using the ring-and-feeler met hod, rebore
if taper exceeds 0.008". This is because
this met hod masks some forms of wear.
However, if your object is t o have a truly
rebuilt engine, don' t merely rering if
taper exceeds 0.006" using the dial-bore
gauge or micrometer methods of check-
ing, or 0. 004" by the ring-and-feeler
met hod. Remember, taper gets worse
with use, not bet t er. It's best t o st art a
rebuilt engine's life with a straight bore
and new pistons if you' re after maximum
longevity.
Piston-to-Bore Clearance-All this talk
about whether t o bore or not may turn
out t o be purely academic. The main
reason for not wanting t o bore an engine
is t o avoid t he cost of new pistons, a
legitimate reason, considering they cost
$10 t o $20 each. If your old pistons are
damaged or worn t o the point of being
unusable, you'll have t o purchase new
pistons whether your block needs boring
or not . So, t o make t he final determi-
nation as t o whether your engine should
have a rebore, check the piston-to-bore
clearances. Refer t o the piston section of
this chapter for other piston-related
problems you must check for before reus-
ing your old pistons.
Two methods can be used for checking
piston-to-bore clearance. The first is
mathemaotical. Measure across t he cylinder
bores 90 to the connecting-rod wrist pin
t o determine maximum bore diameter in
this direction. Then, measure the piston
which goes with the bore. Mike i t in t he
plane of the wrist pin and 90' t o t he
wrist-pin axis, measuring the piston across
its thrust faces. Subtract piston diameter
from bore diameter t o get piston-to-bore
clearance. Measure with t he block and
piston at the same temperature. If the
temperatures are t oo far off, your mea-
surements will not be accurate.
Directly measuring the clearance is the
second met hod. Install the piston-and-rod
assembly in i t s bore less rings, and in its
normal position. By normal position, I
mean the connecting-rod wrist pin is
pointing toward t he front of the engine.
This will ensure t hat t he clearance you're
checking is what the piston sees when i t is
correctly installed in the engine. Use your
feeler gauges from the t op of the cylinder
t o check between t he piston's thrust face
and the bore in several positions up and
down t he bore between the piston's TDC
and BDC. Again, t he maximum clearance
should not exceed 0. 008 inch.
There is a met hod t o take up the
clearance between a piston and its bore,
called knurlitig. Depressions are put in the
thrust faces of a piston, creating raised
projections which increase a piston's dia-
meter and reduce its bore clearance. The
problem is, knurling is temporary. The
projections wear off quickly, putting the
wear right back where i t was before all
your work. Don' t do it! Replace your
pistonls if their clearance exceeds 0. 008
in.
Glaze-Breaking-If your cylinder bores
are within acceptable taper limits, it is
good practice t o break the glaze in the
cylinder bores. The glaze-breaking opera-
tion doesn't remove any appreciable
material from the bore, i t merely restores
a hone-type finish for positive ring break-
in. If you are using plain or chrome rings,
this operation is necessary. It is optional
with moly rings-but desirable because of
t he ring-break-in aspect. Again, the object
of glaze-breaking is not t o remove material
from a bore, therefore a precision-type
hone should not b'e used because it will
try t o remove what bore taper is there,
thus increasing piston-to-bore clearance.
A spring-loaded or ball-type hone that
follows the existing bore without changing
SLEEVING AN ENGINE
A sleeve is basically a portable engine
cylinder . It is used to replace or restore
a cracked, scored or otherwise damaged
bore that can't be restored by conven-
tional boring and honing techniques. An
expenditure of only $20 to $30 for
sleeving a cylinder can save you the cost
of a new or used engine block. A sleeve
is a cast-iron cyl'inder which is slightly
longer than the length of the cylinders in
, the engine it is made for . It has a smaller
I D than the original bore for . finishing
stock and a wall thickness varying from
3/32 to 1/8 in.
To install a sleeve, the damaged cylin-
der must first be bored to a size 0,001"
less than the OD of the sleeve. Rather
than boring <:Ill the. way to the bottom of
the bore, the boring machine is stopped
just short to leave a step, or shoulder for
locating the sleeve. The step and the in
terference fit of the sleeve prevent it
from moving around after the engine is
back in operation. Some rebuilders I,eave
more than 0.001" interference between
the sleeve and the block. The problem is
this overstresses the block and can distort
neighboring cylinders, consequently the
. 0.001" figl,lre should be a d ~ . e r e d to.
When an engine is ready to be sleeved,
it should be evenly warmed up using a
torch, furnace or whatever so the block
will grow. At the same time the sleeve is
cooled to shrink it-a refrigerator freezer
works great for this. The sleeve will
almost drop all the way into the cYlinder, '.
however it will quickly rise to the same
temperature as the block, assuming its
interference fit . Then it must be pressed
or driven in the rest of the way and sealed
at the bottom. Some shops don't bother
with heating and cooling and drive in the
sleeves in all the way. The excess length
of the sleeve protruding from the block is
trimmed flush with the deck surface. The
block is now restored and the sleeved
cylinder is bored to match other cyl inders.
varying bore . Consequently, they lose
their resiliency, or springiness. Also,
because ring gap must be the correct
minimum dimension at the bottom of
the bore, if the engine has taper, the gap
will be larger at the top where compres-
sion pressures are the highest. The results
are reduced combustion pressure, lost
power and increased blow-by .
Therefore, if you just want a "band-
aid" job on your engine so it will go
another 10,000, maybe 20,000 miles
before you're right back where you
started , you can get away with reringing
a block which has some cylinders measur-
ing as much as 0.010" taper. If you are
Checking pistonskirtto-bore clearance. If it's
0,008 in. or more you should rebore.
using the ring-and-feeler method , rebore
if taper exceeds 0.008". This is because
this method masks some forms of wear.
However , if your object is to have a truly
rebuilt engine, don't merely rering if
taper exceeds 0.006" using the dial-bore
gauge or micrometer methods of check-
ing, or 0.004" by the ring-and-feeler
method. Remember, taper gets worse
with use, not better. It's best to start a
rebuilt engine's life with a straight bore
and new pistons if you ' re after maximum
longevity.
Piston-to-Bore Clearance-All this talk
about whether to bore or not may turn
out to be purely academic. The main
reason for not wan ting to bore an engine
is to avoid the cost of new pistons, a
legitimate reason , considering they cost
$10 to $20 each. If your old pistons are
damaged or worn to the poin t of being
unusable , you'll have to purchase new
pistons whether your block needs boring
or not. So, to make the final determi-
nation as to whether your engine should
have a rebore, check the piston-to-bore
clearances . Refer to the piston section of
this chapter for other piston-related
problems you must check for before reus-
ing your old pistons.
Two methods can be used for checking
piston-to-bore clearance. The first is
mathematical. Measure across the cylinder
bores 90 to the connecting-rod wrist pin
to determine maximum bore diameter in
this direction. Then, measure the piston
which goes with the bore. Mike it in the
plane of the wrist pin and 90 to the
wrist-pin axis , measuring the piston across
its thrust faces. Subtract piston diameter
from bore diameter to get piston-to-bore
clearance. Measure with the block and
piston at the same temperature. If the
temperatures are too far off, your mea-
surements will not be accurate.
Embossed pattern (arrow) rolled into this
piston's skirt is a knurl. It's a temporary fix for
taking up clearance between a worn bore and
piston. Photo by David Vizard.
Directly measuring the clearance is the
second method. Install the piston-and-rod
asseml?ly in its bore less rings, and in its
normal position. By normal position, I
mean the connecting-rod wrist pin is
pointing toward the front of the engine .
This will ensure that the clearance you're
checking is what the piston sees when it is
correctly installed in the engine. Use your
feeler gauges from the top of the cylinder
to check between the piston's thrust face
and the bore in several positions up and
down the bore between the pis ton's TDC
and BDC. Again , the maximum clearance
should not exceed 0 .008 inch.
There is a method to take up the
clearance between a piston and its bore,
called knurlillg. Depressions are put in the
thrust faces of a piston , creating raised
projections which increase a piston's dia-
meter and reduce its bore clearance. The
problem is, knurling is temporary. The
projections wear off quickly, putting the
wear right back where it was before all
your work. Don't do it! Replace your
piston/s if their clearance exceeds 0.008
in .
Glaze-Breaking-If your cylinder bores
are within acceptable taper limits, it is
good practice to break the glaze in the
cylinder bores. The glaze-breaking opera-
tion doesn ' t remove any appreciable
material from the bore, it merely restores
a hone-type finish for positive ring break-
in. If you are using plain or chrome rings,
this opera tion is necessary. It is optional
with moly rings-but desirable because of
the ring-break-in aspect. Again , the object
of glaze-breaking is not to remove material
from a bore, therefore a precision-type
hone should not be used because it will
try to remove what bore taper is there,
thus increasing piston -to-bore clearance.
A spring-loaded or ball-type hone that
follows the existing bore withou t changing
55
Glaze-breaking, or restoring cross-hatch t o bores Running a large flat file over the block's deck surface will remove any imperfections that may cause
that don't require reboring is particularly im- this style boring bar to be mislocated. The boring bar removes only enough material to clean up the
portant if chrome rings are to be used. bore and to accept the next largest oversize pistons. 0.002"-0.003" stock is left for honing.
its shape should be used to break the
glaze on the bores.
DECKING YOUR BLOCK
Before sending your block off to be
bored or honed, first check for any irreg-
ularities on the deck surface if either one
of the head gaskets showed signs of leak-
age. If you have additional machining
operations done on the block, you'll want
to have them done all at one time.
Another, more important reason is many
engine machine shops use a boring bar
that locates off the block's deck surface.
If the deck surface is off, the new bore
will also be off relative to the crankshaft
bearing-bore center.
If your block is notched between two
cylinders, it may have to be welded if
more than the following amount has t o
be removed to clean the deck surface up:
0.015 in. from 221s through pre-1977
302s; none from '77 and later 302s;
0.020 in. from Boss 302s; 0.034 in. from
pre-1977 351Ws and 0.014 in. from '77
and later 351 Ws. Removing more than
the amounts indicated will cause deck-
height clearance problems. Another dis-
advantage with milling a block's deck sur-
face, particularly these days, is the engine's
compression ratio will be increased slight-
ly, raising the engine's octane require-
ments. High-octane fuels are already hard
to find-not t o mention the added cost.
Because the block is cast-iron, a special
welding process is required t o repair it.
The block must be preheated prior to
welding, and a nickle-alloy rod used to do
the welding. After the notch is welded,
the raw weld must be machined flat, or
made flush with the rest of the block's
deck surface. Although it's not your
problem, this is not as easy as it sounds
because nickle-alloy weld is very hard and
nearly impossible t o machine, consequent-
ly it must be ground. Your problem is the
cost of having it done. Compare this cost
to that of a replacement block.
For less severe surface irregularities,
check your block if there was any sign of
gasket leakage. To do this, you'll need an
accurate straight-edge at least 6-inches
long and some feeler gauges. Check for
any gaps between the straight-edge and
the block surface for any warpage. If
your straight edge extends the full length
of the block, the maximum allowable gap
is 0.007 in. However, if your straight-edge
is 6-inches long, the maximum is 0.003
in. These two figures equate to basically
the same amount of warpage. IF you do
find warpage, check the figures a couple
of paragraphs back and do not have more
than the maximum amount machined off
the head-gasket surfaces.
A final thought about surfacing your
cylinder block. If one deck surface requires
surfacing, the other one will have to be
done whether it needs it or not. This
maintains equivalent deck heights from
side-to-side.
Other Checks-Other than checking your
block for cracks, amount of bore taper
and deck flatness, there's not much more
to look for. In the normal course of things,
nothing else wears out or can go wrong
with the cylinder block. For example, the
valve-lifter and distributor bores are light-
ly loaded and so drenched in oil that they
just don't wear. The only problem would
occur if they were t o be damaged from
something such as a broken connecting
rod which somehow got into the cam and
lifters. This would require junking the
block. To be sure lifter bores are OK,
check them with a new lifter. Do this
without oiling the lifter or the bore. Insert
the lifter in each bore and try wiggling
it-if there is noticeable movement, the
bore is worn and the only way of fixing it
is to replace the block. Sleeving the lifter
bore is possible, but difficult to have
done.
CYLINDER-BORE FINISHING
Plain Cast-Iron, Chrome, or Moly Rings?-
When you drop your block off t o have it
bored or honed, you should know the
type of rings you intend t o use so you
Glaze-breaking, or restoring cross-hatch to bores
that don't require reboring is particularly im-
portant if chrome rings are to be used.
its shape should be used to break the
glaze on the bores.
DECKING YOUR BLOCK
Before sending your block off to be
bored or honed, first check for any irreg-
ularities on the deck surface if either one
of the head gaskets showed signs of leak-
age . If you have additional machining
operations done on the block, you'll want
to have them done all at one time.
Another, more important reason is many
engine machine shops use a boring bar
that locates off the block's deck surface.
If the deck surface is off, the new bore
will also be off relative to the crankshaft
bearing-bore center.
If your block is notched between two
cylinders, it may have to be welded if
more than the following amount has to
be removed to clean the deck surface up:
0.015 in. from 221s through pre-1977
302s; none from '77 and later 302s;
0 .020 in. from Boss 302s; 0.034 in. from
pre-I977 351 Ws and 0.014 in. from '77
and later 351 Ws. Removing more than
the amounts indicated will cause deck-
height clearance problems. Another dis-
advantage with milling a block's deck sur-
face , particularly these days, is the engine's
compression ratio will be increased slight-
ly, raising the engine's octane require-
ments. High-octane fuels are already hard
56
Running a large flat file over the block's deck surface will remove any imperfections that may cause
this style boring bar to be mislocated. The boring bar removes only enough material to clean up the
bore and to accept the next largest oversize pistons. 0.002"-0.003" stock is left for honing.
to find-not to mention the added cost.
Because the block is cast-iron, a special
welding process is required to repair it.
The block must be preheated prior to
welding, and a nickle-alloy rod used to do
the welding. After the notch is welded ,
the raw weld must be machined flat , or
made flush with the rest of the block's
deck surface. Although it's not your
problem, this is not as easy as it sounds
because nickle-alloy weld is very hard and
nearly impossible to machine , consequent-
ly it must be ground. Your problem is the
cost of having it done. Compare this cost
to that of a replacement block.
For less severe surface irregularities,
check your block if there was any sign of
gasket leakage. To do this , you'll need an
accurate straight-edge at least 6-inches
long and some feeler gauges. Check for
any gaps between the straight-edge and
the block surface for any warpage. If
your straight edge extends the full length
of the block, the maximum allowable gap
is 0 .007 in . However, if your straight-edge
is 6-inches long, the maximum is 0 .003
in. These two figures equate to basically
the same amount of warpage. If you do
find warpage, check the figures a couple
of paragraphs back and do not have more
than the maximum amount machined off
the head-gasket surfaces .
A final thought about surfacing your
cylinder block. If one deck surface requires
surfacing, the other one will have to be
done whether it needs it or not. This
maintains equivalent deck heights from
side-to-side.
Other Checks-Other than checking your
block for cracks, amount of bore taper
and deck flatness, there's not much more
to look for . In the normal course of things,
nothing else wears ou t or can go wrong
with the cylinder block. For example , the
valve-lifter and distributor bores are light-
ly loaded and so drenched in oil that they
just don't wear. The only problem would
occur if they were to be damaged from
something such as a broken connecting
rod which somehow got into the cam and
lifters. This would require junking the
block. To be sure lifter bores are OK,
check them with a new lifter. Do this
without oiling the lifter or the bore. Insert
the lifter in each bore and try wiggling
it-if there is noticeable movement, the
bore is worn and the only way of fixing it
is to replace the block. Sleeving the lifter
bore is possible, but difficult to have
done.
CYLINDER-BORE FINISHING
Plain Cast-Iron, Chrome, or Moly Rings?-
When you drop your block off to have it
bored or honed , you should know the
type of rings you intend to use so you
Honing the block after boring with a hand-held hone. Bore diameter is checked periodically with a
dial-bore gauge. Main-bearing caps must be in place and torqued to spec to produce accurately honed
bores.
can tell the machinist. Your engine's final
bore finish wdl be different depending on
whether you use plain, chrome or moly
rings. Chrome rings are especially suited
t o engines t hat will inhale a l ot of dust
and dirt such as a t ruck used in a rock
quarry. Chrome is very tough and lasts
longer than t he moly type under these
conditions. However, unless you have an
extraordinary situation, use moly rings.
Their life will be much better than t he
chrome t ype and they require virtually
zero break-in mileage. As for plain cast-
iron rings, they break in quicker than
chrome-faced cast-iron rings, but they
also wear out quicker. I recommend you
don't consider t hem.
What's t he Difference?-The advantage of
a moly ring over a plain or chrome one is
the moly-type ring carries more of its
own oil. It has surface voids, or little
depressions, which contain oil much in
the same manner as the cross-hatching of
a honed cylinder. Plain and chrome rings
have virtually no voids and must depend
almost totally on cylinder wall cross-hatch
t o supply lubricating oil. When t he piston
travels down on its power stroke, the
cylinder wall is exposed t o a burning fuel
charge. Consequently, the oil on the wall
is partially burned,away, meaning the pis-
t on rings will not receive their full amount
of lubrication during t he return trip back
up the cylinder on t he exhaust st roke.
The moly-type ring carries its own lubri-
cation which is not directly exposed t o
t he combustion process.
The reason for different bore finishes
t o mat ch the ring type should now be ob-
vious. A chrome ring depends on a coarsely
finished cylinder wall t o hold lubricating
oil. If plain or chrome rings are used, the
bore should be finish-honed with a 280-
grit stone. A 400-grit stone is used for
moly rings. A 30" cross-hatch hone pattern
is used for all ring types.
Install t he Main-Bearing Caps-Prior t o
delivering your block for boring and/or
honing, install the main-bearing caps.
Torque them t o specification: 95-105 ft .
lbs. for. the 351 and 60-70 ft . lbs. for t he
221 and through t he 302 engines. Outer
bolts for t he Boss 302 are torqued 35- 40
f t . lbs. This is necessary because the load
imposed on the cylinder by the main-
bearing bolts distorts their bores slightly.
Therefore, the bores have a different shape
when t he block is bare than when t he main
caps are installed. The object is t o simulate
t he stress and deflections in the block so
the machining processes will provide bores
as close t o perfect as possible-after t he
engine is assembled. The cylinder head is
another source of cylinder stress and
deflection, but how can you hone the
engine with a head installed? Fear not ,
~rosi - hat ch pattern for ring seating and oil
retention.
t he dilemma has been solved. Some engine
machine shops use a torque plate when
boring and/ or honing. The 2-inch-thick
steel torque plate has four large-diameter
holes centered on t he engine bores t o allow
boring or honing. The plate is torqued t o
t he block during these operations. If t he
shop you choose does not use a torque
plate, don' t be concerned. This is not ab-
solutely essential unless the engine is
intended for all-out racing. Also, using a
t orque plate increases t he machining costs
because i t takes time t o use it. If you are
on a tight budget, make some cost com-
parisons. Regardless of whether or not a
torque plate is used, do install the main
bearing caps.
Chamfer t he Bores-When you get your
block back from t he machine shop, in-
spect t he bore tops. The machinist should
have filed or ground a small chamfer or
bevel at the t op of the bores after honing
t hem. The reason is t o assist the piston
installation. It will provide a lead-in for
t he piston and the rings, and it will also
eliminate a sharp edge that will get hot in
t he combustion chamber. A 45", 1132-in.
-wide chamfer is sufficient. A fine-toothed
halfround or rat-tail file works well for
this job. Just hold t he file at a 45" angle
t o the bore as you work your way around
t he t op of each cylinder. Don't hit the
opposite side of t he cylinder wall with
Honing the block after boring with a hand-held hone. Bore diameter is checked periodically with a
dial-bore gauge. Main-bearing caps must be in place and torqued to spec to produce accurately honed
bores.
can tell the machinist. Your engine's final
bore finish will be different depending on
whether you use plain, chrome or moly
rings. Chrome rings are especially suited
to engines that will inhale a lot of dust
and dirt such as a truck used in a rock
quarry . Chrome is very tough and lasts
longer than the moly type under these
conditions . However, unless you have an
extraordinary situation, use moly rings.
Their life will be much better than the
chrome type and they require virtually
zero break-in mileage. As for plain cast-
iron rings, they break in quicker than
chrome-faced cast-iron n'ngs, but they
also wear out quicker. I recommend you
don't consider them.
What's the Difference? - The advantage of
a moly ring over a plain or chrome one is
the moly-type ring carries more of its
own oil. It has surface voids, or little
depressions, which contain oil much in
the same manner as the cross-hatching of
a honed cylinder. Plain and chrome rings
have virtually no voids and must depend
almost totally on cylinder wall cross-hatch
to supply lubricating oil. When the piston
travels down on its power stroke, the
cylinder wall is exposed to a burning fuel
charge. Consequently , the oil on the wall
is partially burnedaway, meaning the pis-
ton rings will not receive their full amount
of lubrication during the return trip back
up the cylinder on the exhaust stroke.
The moly-type ring carries its own lubri-
cation which is not directly exposed to
the combustion process.
The reason for different bore finishes
to match the ring type should now be ob-
vious. A chrome ring depends on a coarsely
finished cylinder wall to hold lubricating
oil. If plain or chrome rings are used, the
bore should be finish-honed with a 280-
grit stone. A 400-grit stone is used for
moly rings. A 30 cross-hatch hone pattern
is used for all ring types.
Install the Main-Bearing Caps-Prior to
delivering your block for boring and/or
honing, install the main-bearing caps.
Torque them to specifica tion: 95 -105ft.
lbs . for the 351 and 60-70 ft.lbs. for the
221 and through the 302 engines . Outer
bolts for the Boss 302 are torqued 35-40
ft. lbs. This is necessary because the load
imposed on the cylinder by the main-
bearing bolts distorts their bores slightly.
Therefore, the bores have a different shape
when the block is bare than when the main
caps are installed . The object is to simulate
the stress and deflections in the block so
the machining processes will provide bores
as close to perfect as possible-after the
engine is assembled. The cylinder head is
another source of cylinder stress and
deflection, but how can you hone the
engine with a head installed? Fear not,
Cross-hatch pattern for ring seating and oil
retention.
the dilemma has been solved. Some engine
machine shops use a torque plate when
boring and/or honing. The 2-inch-thick
steel torque plate has four large-diameter
holes centered on the engine bores to allow
boring or honing. The plate is torqued to
the block during these operations. If the
shop you choose does not use a torque
plate, don't be concerned. This is not ab-
solu tely essen tial unless the engine is
intended for all-out racing. Also, using a
torque plate increases the machining costs
because it takes time to use it. If you are
on a tight budget, make some cost com-
parisons. Regardless of whether or not a
torque plate is used, do install the main
bearing caps.
Chamfer the Bores-When you get your
block back from the machine shop, in-
spect the bore tops. The machinist should
have filed or ground a small chamfer or
bevel at the top of the bores after honing
them. The reason is to assist the piston
installation. It will provide a lead-in for
the piston and the rings, and it will also
eliminate a sharp edge that will get hot in
the combustion chamber. A 45, 1/32-in.
-wide chamfer is sufficient. A fine-toothed
halfround or rat-tail file works well for
this job. Just hold the file at a 45 angle
to the bore as you work your way around
the top of each cylinder. Don't hit the
opposite side of the cylinder wall with
57
Dry your block off
immediately after rin
surfaces against rust
with some paper towels
sing. Protect the ~achi ned
by coating them with oil.
After boring and honing a sharp edge is left at
the top of each bore. Chamfer the boresLvith a
file to provide a lead-in for installing the rings
and pistons.
The most important job after boring and honing
is to clean your block. A steam cleaner is being
used here after hot tanking. A scrub brush in
the bores with some laundry detergent, a bucket
and a garden hose works equally well.
the end of the file. You don' t want t o
gouge your freshly machined bore.
Clean It Again-Even though your block
was hot-tanked, spray-jetted or whatever
method you used for cleaning i t , your
block must be cleaned again. If you are
trying t o save your cam bearings, inform
..
your machinist, otherwise he'll aut omat -
ically ciean the block after he's machined
i t . If you intend t o save the bearings and
he does his cleaning with a hot t ank,
goodbye bearings. This second cleaning
removes machining residue, mainly t he
dust and grit left from the honing stones.
If i t isn't removed before t he engine is
assembled, your engine will eat up a set
of rings so fast it'll make your wallet
ache. Grit will also be circulated through
your engine's oiling system and end up
embedded i n the crankshaft, connecting-
rod and camshaft bearings, turning them
i nt o little grinding stones. Consequently,
even though your engine was hot-tanked
by the machinist, enlist the use of a stiff-
bristle brush, laundry detergent and some
warm water t o satisfy yourself t hat the
engine is clean. This combined with gen-
erous amount s of elbow grease will give
you a super-clean block. Wiping the bores
with a white paper towel is a good check.
It should stay clean and white.
After you've finished the scrubbing
and rinsing, don't let the block air dry.
The newly machined surfaces will rust
very quickly. If you have compressed air,
use it t o blow-dry t he block. It's best
because you don' t have t o touch t he block
and the compressed air will blow water
out of every little corner. The next best
thing to use is paper towels. Don't use
cloth rags or towels because they spread
lint throughout the engine-lint t hat won' t
be dissolved like that from a paper towel.
Immediately after you have the block
dried off, get out your can of spray oil
and coat all t he machined surfaces. CRC@
and WD-40@ displace water rather than
trapping i t . This will protect the block
against rust, but will also turn i t i nt o a big
dust collector. Consequently, you'll have
t o keep it covered up. Because you're
finished with the block until i t comes time
t o assemble the engine, store i t by standing
i t on its rear face and cover it up with a
plastic trash bag. This'll keep the block
clean and dry until it' s time for final
engine assembly.
aged f r o ~n a lack of lubrication, but mostly
from very dirty oil. Usually this damage
can be repaired. Even dirty oil usually
doesn' t damage a crankshaft' s journals,
but if t he dirt particles get big and num-
erous, it will. The one thing that can
render a crankshaft useless is mechanical
damage caused when another component
in an engine breaks-such as a rod bolt. If
an engine isn't shut off immediately when
this happens, or if i t occurs at high RP M,
t he crank and many of the ot her expensive
component s will have t o be replaced also.
Main and Connecting-Rod Journals-The
most i mport ant crankshaft inspection job
is t o make sure the bearing journals are
round, their diameters don' t vary over
their length and their surfaces are free of
imperfections such as cracks. A cracked
crankshaft must be replaced. Except for
the Boss 302, all small-block Ford cranks
are made from cast iron, and if you've
found a crack, consider yourself lucky. A
crack in a cast-iron crankshaft is followed
very quickly by a break. So don' t even
think about trying t o save your crankshaft
if it is cracked. The best way of checking
for cracks is by Magnaflux@, the next is
by dye testing and the last is by visual
inspection. Check with your local parts
store or engine shop about having your
crank crack-tested, preferably by Magna-
flux@. The cost is minimal because a
broken crank can destroy an engine.
THE CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft is t he main moving part
in any engine. Most of the other parts
turn the crank, support i t and lubricate it.
Because of its importance, a crankshaft is
a very tough, high-quality component . As
a result it's rare t hat a crankshaft cannot
be reused. They very rarely ever wear t o
t he point of having t o be replaced. What
usually happens is the journals are dam-
After boring and honing a sharp edge is left at
the top of each bore. Chamfer the bores with a
file to provide a leadin for installing the rings
and pistons.
the end of the file. You don't wan t to
gouge your freshly machined bore.
Clean It Again-Even though your block
was hot-tanked, spray-jetted or whatever
method you used for cleaning it, your
block must be cleaned again. If you are
trying to save your cam bearings, inform
your machinist, otherwise he'll automat-
ically clean the block after he's machined
it. If you intend to save the bearings and
he does his cleaning with a hot tank,
goodbye bearings. This second cleaning
removes machining residue, mainly the
dust and grit left from the honing stones.
If it isn't removed before the engine is
assembled, your engine will eat up a set
of rings so fast it'll make your wallet
ache. Grit will also be circulated through
your engine's oiling system and end up
embedded in the crankshaft, connecting-
rod and camshaft bearings, turning them
into little grinding stones. Consequently,
even though your engine was hot-tanked
by the machinist, enlist the use of a stiff-
bristle brush, laundry detergent and some
warm water to satisfy yourself that the
engine is clean. This combined with gen-
erous amoun ts of elbow grease will give
you a super-clean block. Wiping the bores
with a white paper towel is a good check.
It should stay clean and white.
After you've finished the scrubbing
and rinsing, don't let the block air dry.
The newly machined surfaces will rust
58
The most important job after boring and honing
is to clean your block. A steam cleaner is being
used here after hot tanking. A scrub brush in
the bores with some laundry detergent, a bucket
and a garden hose works equally well.
very quickly. If you have compressed air,
use it to blow-dry the block. It's best
because you don't have to touch the block
and the compressed air will blow water
out of every little corner. The next best
thing to use is paper towels. Don't use
cloth rags or towels because they spread
lint throughou t the engine-lint that won't
be dissolved like that from a paper towel.
Immediately after you have the block
dried off, get ou t your can of spray oil
and coat all the machined surfaces. CRC
and WD40 displace water rather than
trapping it. This will protect the block
against rust, but will also turn it into a big
dust collector. Consequently , you'll have
to keep it covered up. Because you're
finished with the block until it comes time
to assemble the engine, store it by standing
it on its rear face and cover it up with a
plastic trash bag. This'll keep the block
clean and dry until it's time for final
engine assembly .
THE CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft is the main moving part
in any engine. Most of the other parts
turn the crank, support it and lubricate it.
Because of its importance, a crankshaft is
a very tough, high-quality component. As
a result it's rare that a crankshaft cannot
be reused. They very rarely ever wear to
the point of having to be replaced. What
usually happens is the journals are dam-
Dry your block off with some paper towels
immediately after rinsing. Protect the 'T'achined
surfaces against rust by coating them with oil.
aged from a lack oflubrication, but mostly
from very dirty oil. Usually this damage
can be repaired . Even dirty oil usually
doesn't damage a crankshaft's journals,
but if the dirt particles get big and num-
erous, it will. The one thing that can
render a crankshaft useless is mechanical
damage caused when another component
in an engine breaks-such as a rod bolt. If
an engine isn't shut off immediately when
this happens, or if it occurs at high RPM,
the crank and many of the other expensive
components will have to be replaced also.
Main and Connecting-Rod JoumaIs-The
most important crankshaft inspection job
is to make sure the bearing journals are
round, their diameters don't vary over
their length and their surfaces are free of
imperfections such as cracks. A cracked
crankshaft must be replaced. Except for
the Boss 302, all small-block Ford cranks
are made from cast iron, and if you've
found a crack, consider yourself lucky. A
crack in a cast-iron crankshaft is followed
very quickly by a break. So don't even
think about trying to save your crankshaft
if it is cracked. The best way of checking
for cracks is by Magnaf1ux, the next is
by dye testing and the last is by visual
inspection. Check with your local parts
store or engine shop abou t having your
crank crack-tested , preferably by Magna-
f1ux. The cost is minimal because a
broken crank can destroy an engine.
Your block should look sonlething like this now. Cover i t up with something like a plastic trash bag
to keep it clean and dirt free until assembly time.
WORN JOURNAL
- - -
\
I -4
UNWORN JOURNAL
TAPERED JOURNAL
If a journal is oval or egg-shaped i t is
said to be out-ofround. This condition is
more prevalent with rod journals than
with main-bearing journals. If a bearing
journal's diameter varies over its length, it
is tapered. This is like the taper of a
cylinder bore except it's an outside dia-
meter. Finally, the journals should be free
of any burrs, nicks or scoring t hat could
damage bearings. Pay special at t ent i on t o
the edge of each oil hole in the rod and
main journals. Round these edges if you
find any sharp ones. Sharp edges here can
cut the bearing material out of t he rod
and main inserts.
Beginning with t he 221, there have
been many subtle changes t o the small-
block Ford, however the crankshaft's
excellent initial design has remained
virtually unchanged. For example, the
nominal (average) diameter for t he main-
and rod-bearing journals have remained at
2.2486 in. and 2. 1232 in. respectively
Bearing journals wear two ways, tapered or varying diameter over their length and out-of-round or
with exception of the 351. lts iournals
oval in shape. Out-of-round is more prevalent with connecting-rod-bearing journals.
were increased t o 2.9998 i n. for t 6e mains
and 2.3107 i n. for t he rod journals for
additional bearing capacity for the larger
engine. The nominal size for all the jour-
nals can vary +0.0004 in. and be within
specification.
Surface Finish-Look at surface finish
first. If any of t he bearing journals are
rough, they'll need t o be refinished or
-- D -9
I
OUT-OF-ROUND JOURNAL
Your block should look something like this now. Cover it up with something like a plastic trash bag
to keep it clean and dirt tree until assembly time.
If a journal is oval or egg-shaped it is
said to be out-aI-round. This condition is
more prevalent with rod journals than
with main-bearing journals. If a bearing
journal 's diameter varies over its length , it
is tapered. This is like the taper of a
cylinder bore except it's an outside dia-
meter. Finally, the journals should be free
of any burrs , nicks or scoring that could
damage bearings. Pay special attention to
the edge of each oil hole in the rod and
main journals. Round these edges if you
find any sharp ones. Sharp edges here can
cut the bearing material out of the rod
and main inserts .
WORN JOURNAL
UNWORN JOURNAL
TAPERED JOURNAL
-- D - -
I
I
\
I
.-L
WORI'J
JOURNAL
'" UNWORI'J
\ JOURNAL
'" J
'-\
I \
MAIN-BEARING
; JOURNAL
OUT-OF-ROUI\ID JOURNAL
Beginning with the 221 , there have
been many subtle changes to the small-
block Ford, however the crankshaft's
excellent initial design has remained
virtually unchanged. For example, the
nominal (average) diameter for the main-
and rod-bearing journals have remained at
2.2486 in. and 2.1232 in. respectively
with exception of the 351. Its journals
were increased to 2.9998 in. for the mains
and 2.3107 in. for the rod journals for
additional bearing capacity for the larger
engine. The nominal size for all the jour-
nals can vary O.0004 in. and be within
specifica tion .
Bearing journals wear two ways, tapered or varying diameter over their length and out-ot-round or
oval in shape. Out -ot-round is more prevalent with connecting-rod-bearing journals.
Surface Finish - Look at surface finish
first. If any of the bearing journals are
rough , they'll need to be refinished or
59
Deep grooving on this connecting rod journal
from foreign material in the oil. This crankshaft
should be reground or replaced.
reground regardless of taper or out-of-
roundness. About the only way of deter-
mining if your crankshaft journals are
smooth is t o run your fingertips over
them. If a journal looks rough and you
can feel i t , t he bearing will also feel i t . A
regrinding job will then be in order. If it
is required, the normal 0.01 0-in. regrind
job will hopefully take care of the journal
surfaces and any normal wear. 1 say sur-
faces because if one journal has t o be
ground, all rod or main journals should be
ground t he same amount . You don' t want
one odd-size bearing-bearings are sold in
sets. The additional cost will be slight
because t he major expense is incurred in
t he original set up. Therefore, if 0. 010 i n.
is removed from the standard-size bearing
journals, 0.0 10-in undersize bearings will
be required. Undersize refers t o t he crank-
shaft journal. The amount of undersize is
the difference between the journal dia-
meter after being reground and the nom-
inal or average specified standard-size
journal diameter. For example, if t he nom-
inal-specified diameter for t he main jour-
nal of a crank is 2.2486 in. and i t is re-
ground t o a diameter of 2.2386 in. it is
0.01 0-in. undersize.
While you' re checking bearing jour-
nals, take a good l ook at the thrust faces
on the number-three main-bearing journal.
This is particularly true if your engine is
backed by a standard transmission. When
a clutch is disengaged, the release bearing
pushes forward on the crankshaft. This
load is supported by the crankshaft' s rear
thrust surface, so if the pressure plate had
an excessively high load or your clutch
Measuring connecting-rod and main-bearing jout
have something t o refer back to if you need t o re
was wrongly adjusted, the thrust surface
may be damaged. An indication as t o
whether you'll have thrust surface trouble
is t he condition of your pressure-plate
release levers. If they show signs of exces-
sive wear from the release bearing then be
particularly attentive. Measure between
t he thrust faces. You'll need a snap gauge
and a micrometer or an old or new bearing
insert, feeler gauges and some mikes. Min-
i mum width is 1 .I37 in.; maximum is
1 . I 45 i n. Check the thrust-face widths in
several places. If t he 1.145-in. figure is
exceeded, you'll have to replace your
crank or have i t reconditioned.
Out-of-Round-To check for out-of-round
or tapered journals you have t o have a 2-
t o 3-in. outside micrometer and an under-
standing of what you' re looking for. If a
journal is round it will be described by a
diameter which you can read directly
from your micrometer. If i t is out-of-round
you will be looking for the major and
minor dimension of an ellipse which can
also be read directly. An out-of-round
journal will be a close approximation of
an ellipse. The minor dimension can be
found by measuring around the journal in
several locations,. The major and minor
dimensions will occur about 90" from
each ot her. The difference between these
t wo figures will be how much a journal is
out of round, or
Major Dimension - Minor Dimension
= Out-of-Round
Start with the connecting-rod journals
when checking. They are most likely t o
vals for wear. Record your measurements so you11
,check.
suffer from this out-of-round condition
because they are highly loaded at their
t op and bot t om dead centers. With this in
mind, check each journal i n at least a
couple of locations fore and aft on t he
journal. The maximum allowable out-of-
round is 0.0004 i n. for bot h crankshaft
and rod journals. Remember, if you find
one journal out of spec, your crankshaft
should be reground.
Taper-Crankshaft journal taper causes
uneven bearing wear more than an out-of-
round journal. This is due t o uneven bear-
ing load over the length of the bearing. As
a journal tapers i t redistributes its load
from less on the worn portion or smaller
diameter, t o more on the less-worn part or
larger diameter of the journal. This results
i n rapid bearing wear when a crank with
excessively tapered journals is reinstalled
with new bearings.
Taper is specified in so many tenths of
thousandths-of-an-inch per inch. What this
means is your micrometer readings will
vary by this amount when they are taken
one inch from each ot her in t he same
plane.
For connecting-rod journals, maximum
allowable taper is 0.0004 in./in. and for
main-bearing journals it is limited t o
0. 0003 in./in. Again, if one journal is out
of spec, all the other journals should be
reground at the same time the faulty
journal is being corrected.
If your crank needs regrinding, trade it
in on a reconditioned one. Youl l get
someone else's crankshaft that has been
reground. The name for this is a crank kit.
It consists of a freshly reconditioned
Deep grooving on this connecting rod journal
from foreign material in the oil. This crankshaft
should be reground or replaced.
reground regardless of taper or ou t-of-
roundness. Abou t the only way of deter-
mining if your crankshaft journals are
smooth is to run your fingertips over
them. If a journal looks rough and you
can feel it, the bearing will also feel it. A
regrinding job will then be in order. If it
is required, the normal 0.01 O-in. regrind
job will hopefully take care of the journal
surfaces and any normal wear. I say sur-
faces because if one journal has to be
ground, all rod or main journals should be
ground the same amoun t. You don't wan t
one odd-size bearing-bearings are sold in
sets . The additional cost will be slight
because the major expense is incurred in
the original setup. Therefore, if 0.010 in.
is removed from the standard-size bearing
journals, 0.01 O-in undersize bearings will
be required. Undersize refers to the crank-
shaft journal. The amoun t of undersize is
the difference between the journal dia-
meter after being reground and the nom-
inal or average specified standard-size
journal diameter. For example, if the nom-
inal-specified diameter for the main jour-
nal of a crank is 2.2486 in. and it is re-
ground to a diameter of 2.2386 in. it is
0.0 I O-in. undersize.
While you're checking bearing jom-
nals, take a good look at the thrust faces
on the number-three main-bearingjournal .
This is particularly true if your engine is
backed by a standard transmission. When
a clutch is disengaged, the release bearing
pushes forward on the crankshaft. This
load is supported by the crankshaft's rear
thrust surface, so if the pressure pia te had
an excessively high load or your clu tch
60
Measuring connectingrod and mainbearing journals for wear. Record your measurements so you'll
have something to refer back to if you need to recheck.
was wrongly adjusted , the thrust surface
may be damaged. An indication as to
whether you'll have thrust surface trouble
is the condition of your pressure-plate
release levers. If they show signs of exces-
sive wear from the release bearing then be
particularly attentive. Measure between
the thrust faces. You'1I need a snap gauge
and a micrometer or an old or new bearing
insert, feeler gauges and some mikes. Min-
imum width is 1.137 in.; maximum is
1.145 in. Check the thrust-face widths in
several places . If the 1.145-in. figure is
exceeded, you'll have to replace your
crank or have it reconditioned.
Out-of-Round-To check for out-of-round
or tapered journals you have to have a 2-
to 3-in. outside micrometer and an under-
standing of what you're looking for . If a
journal is round it will be described by a
diameter which you can read directly
from your micrometer. If it is ou t-of-round
you will be looking for the major and
minor dimension of an ellipse which can
also be read directly. An ou t-of-round
journal will be a close approximation of
an ellipse. The minor dimension can be
found by measuring around the journal in
several locations. The major and minor
dimensions will' occur about 90
0
from
each other. The difference between these
two figures will be how much a journal is
out of round, or
Major Dimension - Minor Dimension
= Outof-Round
Start with the connecting-rod journals
when checking. They are most likely to
suffer from this out-of-round condition
because they are highly loaded at their
top and bottom dead centers. With this in
mind, check each journal in at least a
couple of locations' fore and aft on the
journal. The maximum allowable au t-of-
round is 0.0004 in. for both crankshaft
and rod journals. Remember, if you find
one journal out of spec, your crankshaft
should be reground.
Taper-Crankshaft journal taper causes
uneven bearing wear more than an out-of-
round journal. This is due to uneven bear-
ing load over the length of the bearing. As
a journal tapers it redistributes its load
from less on the worn portion or smaller
diameter, to more on the less-worn part or
larger diameter of the journal. This results
in rapid bearing wear when a crank with
excessively tapered journals is reinstalled
with new bearings .
Taper is specified in so many tenths of
thousandths-of-an-inch per inch. What this
means is your micrometer readings will
vary by this amoun t when they are taken
one inch from each other in the same
plane.
For connecting-rod journals, maximum
allowable taper is 0.0004 in .lin. and for
main-bearing journals it is limited to
0.0003 in./in . Again, if one journal is out
of spec, all the other journals should be
reground at the same time the faulty
journal is being corrected.
If your crank needs regrinding, trade it
in on a reconditioned one. You'll get
someone else's crankshaft that has been
reground. The name for this is a crank kit.
H consists of a freshly reconditioned
crankshaft and new main and connecting-
rod bearings. I recommend taking this
approach rather than having your crank-
shaft reground and buying new bearings.
You'll end up saving about $25. Just
make sure the bearings accompany t he
crankshaft.
After Regrinding-Check your crankshaft
carefully if you've had i t reground or
traded yours in on a reconditioned one.
The t wo main things t o l ook for are sharp
edges around t he oil holes and improper
shoulder radii at t he ends of t he journals.
Oil holes should all be chamfered, or have
t he edges removed t o prevent the bearings
from being damaged. As for t he radius,
there should be one all t he way around
each crank journal. If there's a corner
rather than a radius, it will weaken t he
crankshaft because t he corner is a weak
point, or a good place for a fatigue crack
to start. A radius that' s t oo large is great
for the crankshaft, but bad news for the
bearings. The bearing will edge ride, or
ride up the radius rather than seat in the
journal. Use the accompanying sketch t o
make a checking template for checking
journal radius. Make it out of cardboard-
the type that comes inside your shirts
from the cleaners-or some thin sheet
metal if you want something more dur-
able. The maximum specified main-journal
and connecting-rod-journal radius is 0.100
in. If any crank radius isn't right, return
t he crank t o be corrected, otherwise it
could spell real trouble.
Smoot h and Clean Journals and Seal Sur-
faces?-A newly reground crankshaft
should have its journals checked for
roughness for no ot her reason t han they
may be t oo rough-just like you checked
your old crankshaft, but not t he same
way. Rather than using your finger, rub
the edge of a copper penny lengthwise on
the journal. If it leaves a line of copper,
the journal is t oo rough. If this is t he
I I
Use this pattern for making a template t o check
bearing-journal radius. A journal radius should
be no larger than 0.100 in. otherwise i t will
edge-ride the bearing. The 1116-in. (0.0625-in.)
and 118-in. (0.125-in.) radii are for reference.
case, consider smoothing the journals
rather than going through t he hassle of
getting it redone. More often than not ,
you'll end up with a better job by doing
i t yourself wi t hout going through t he
frustration which usually accompanies
getting a job redone. Also, if your original
crankshaft checks out OK in all depart-
ments, you should give i t t he same treat-
ment just t o put a tooth on t he highly
polished journals .and oil-seal surface in
addition t o removing any varnish buildup.
Regardless of whether t he journals are
newly reground and need smoothing or
are original, polish them with 400-grit
emery cloth. A 1-inch-wide strip a couple
of feet long should be sufficient t o do all
t he journals and t he rear-main seal sur-
faces. Wrap t he cloth around the journal
as far as possible and work it back and
forth lightly as you gradually move around
the journal. Keep track of where you start
on a journal so you can give i t an even
finish all around. If you stay in one spot
t oo long or use t oo much pressure, you'll
remove material unevenly . The object isn't
t o remove material, at least as little as
necessary, but t o gve the journal and rear-
main-seal surfaces a clean smoot h surface.
Be careful with the oil-seal surface. Don' t
do t oo good a job. Polish i t just enough
t o remove any varnish or t o smoot h out
any nicks or burrs. Some oil is required
between the seal and t he crankshaft t o
lubricate bot h and a highly polished sur-
face will seal t oo completely with t he
result being eventual seal failure.
Crankshaft Runout-Crankshaft runout
describes how much a crankshaft is bent.
It is found by rotating t he crank between
t wo centers and reading runout with a
dial indicator set 90 t o each main-bearing
journal. As the crankshaft is rot at ed, the
indicator reading will change if the crank-
shaft is bent.
I haven't mentioned runout until now
because it's not likely you'll encounter
this problem. If you do it may be a false
alarm because a crank just laying around
on the garage floor for some time can
change. Not enough that you can see, but
enough t o show with a dial indicator.
Dial-Indicator Checking Method-All
you'll need is an indicator with a tip ex-
tension so the crank throw won' t interfere
with the dial-indicator body as the crank
is rotated. Just set the crank i nt o the t op
halves of your old front and rear bearings
with no oil seal. Leave out any of t he
intermediate t op bearing halves. Oil t he
bearings well. This leaves t he crankshaft
free t o wobble i n t he center as you t urn
i t . Mount your dial-indicator ba%e t o t he
block with t he indicator at 9 0 t o t he
main-bearing journal being checked. Offset
t he indicator tip on t he journal t o miss
t he oil hole. Rotate t he crankshaft until
you find t he lowest reading and zero t he
indicator dial. You can t urn t he crankshaft
With only the front and rear main bearings and
caps in place and torqued tospec, total indicated
reading obtained with a dial indicator set up as
shown should not exceed 0.004 in.
and read runout directly. Turn the crank
a few times t o make sure you have a good
reading. Maximum allowable runout is
0. 004 in. If your crank exceeds this, don' t
panic. As I said, a crank can change from
just sitting around, so if yours is beyond
the limit, turn t he side that yielded max-
imu runout up, or down as the crankshaft
would l ook with the engine in its normal
position. Install t he center main cap with
only the bearing in the cap. This will pull
the crank i nt o position. Leave it this way
for a day or t wo and recheck the runout .
Your crankshaft will probably creep, or
bend t o put i t within the 0.004-in. range.
However, if it's t oo far off and can't be
corrected using this met hod, regrind i t or
trade i t for a crank kit.
Cleaning and Inspecting t he Crankshaft-
When cleaning a crankshaft the most im-
port ant thing is t o concentrate on the oil
holes. Get t hem really clean. Even if you
sent your crank along with t he block for
cleaning, some wire tied t o a strip ofcl ot h
pulled through t he oil holes will remove
what's left if t he hot t ank didn't get i t
all. Soak the rag in carburetor cleaner or
lacquer thinner and run i t through each
hole several times. If you want t o be sure
crankshaft and new main and connecting-
rod bearings . I recommend taking this
approach rather than having your crank-
shaft reground and buying new bearings .
You'll end up saving about $25. Just
make sure the bearings accompany the
crankshaft.
After Regrinding-Check your crankshaft
carefully if you've had it reground or
traded yours in on a reconditioned one.
The two main things to look for are sharp
edges around the oil holes and improper
shoulder radii at the ends of the journals.
Oil holes should all be chamfered, or have
the edges removed to prevent the bearings
from being damaged. As for the radius,
there should be one all the way around
each crank journal. If there's a corner
rather than a radius, it will weaken the
crankshaft because the corner is a weak
point, or a good place for a fatigue crack
to start. A radius that's too large is great
for the crankshaft, but bad news for the
bearings. The bearing will edge ride, or
ride up the radius rather than seat in the
journal. Use the accompanying sketch to
make a checking template for checking
journal radius. Make it out of cardboard-
the type that comes inside your shirts
from the cleaners-or some thin sheet
metal if you want something more dur-
able. The maximum specified main-journal
and connecting-rod-journal radius is 0.100
in. If any crank radius isn't right , return
the crank to be corrected, otherwise it
could spell real trou ble.
Smooth and Oean Journals and Seal Sur-
faces? -A newly reground crankshaft
should have its journals checked for
roughness for no other reason than they
may be too rough-just like you checked
your old crankshaft, but not the same
way. Rather than using your finger, rub
the edge of a copper penny lengthwise on
the journal. If it leaves a line of copper,
the journal is too rough. If this is the
1/16"R
O.10"R 1 /8"R
Use this pattern for making a template to check
bearingjournal radius. A journal radius should
be no larger than 0 .100 in . otherwise it will
edge-ride the bearing. The 1/16in. (0.0625in .)
and 1IBin. (0.125-in.1 radii are for reference.
case, consider smoothing the journals
rather than going through the hassle of
getting it redone. More often than not,
you'l1 end up with a better job by doing
it yourself without going through the
frustration which usually accompanies
getting a job redone. Also, if your original
crankshaft checks out OK in all depart-
ments, you should give it the same treat-
ment just to put a tooth on the highly
polished journals and oil-seal surface in
addition to removing any varnish buildup .
Regardless of whether the journals are
newly reground and need smoothing or
are original, polish them with 400-grit
emery cloth. A I-inch-wide strip a couple
of feet long should be sufficient to do all
the journals and the rear-main seal sur-
faces. Wrap the cloth around the journal
as far as possible and work it back and
forth lightly as you gradually move around
the journal. Keep track of where you start
on a journal so you can give it an even
finish all around. If you stay in one spot
too long or use too much pressure, you'l1
remove material unevenly. The object isn't
to remove material, at least as little as
necessary, but to give the journal and rear-
main-seal surfaces a clean smooth surface.
Be careful with the oil-seal surface. Don't
do too good a job. Polish it just enough
to remove any varnish or to smooth ou t
any nicks or burrs. Some oil is required
between the seal and the crankshaft to
lubricate both and a highly polished sur-
face will seal too completely with the
result being eventual seal failure.
Crankshaft Runout-Crankshaft runout
describes how much a crankshaft is bent.
It is found by rotating the crank between
two centers and reading runout with a
dial indicator set 90 to each main-bearing
journal. As the cran kshaft is rota ted, the
indicator reading will change if the crank-
shaft is ben t.
I haven't mentioned runout until now
because it's not likely you'll encounter
this problem. If you do it may be a false
alarm because a crank just laying around
on the garage floor for some time can
change. Not enough that you can see, but
enough to show with a dial indicator.
Dial-Indicator Checking Method-All
you'll need is an indicator with a tip ex-
tension so the crank throw won't in terfere
with the dial-indicator body as the crank
is rotated. Just set the crank into the top
halves of your old front and rear bearings
with no oil seal. Leave out any of the
intermediate top bearing halves. Oil the
bearings well. This leaves the crankshaft
free to wobble in the center as you turn
it. Mount your dial-indicator base to the
block with the indicator at 90 to the
main-bearingjournal being checked. Offset
the indicator tip on the journal to miss
the oil hole. Rotate the crankshaft until
you find the lowest reading and zero the
indicator dial. You can turn the crankshaft
With only the front and rear main bearings and
caps in place and torqued to spec, total indicated
reading obtained with a dial indicator set up as
shown should not exceed 0.004 in.
and read runout directly . Turn the crank
a few times to make sure you have a good
reading. Maximum allowable runout is
0.004 in. If your crank exceeds this, don't
panic. As I said, a crank can change from
just sitting around, so if yours is beyond
the limit, turn the side that yielded max-
imu runout up, or down as the crankshaft
would look with the engine in its normal
position. Install the center main cap with
only the bearing in the cap. This will pull
the crank into position. Leave it this way
for a day or two and recheck the runout.
Your crankshaft will probably creep, or
bend to put it within the 0.004-in. range.
However, if it's too far off and can't be
corrected using this method , regrind it or
trade it for a crank kit.
Oeaning and Inspecting the Crankshaft-
When cleaning a crankshaft the most im-
portant thing is to concentrate on the oil
holes. Get them really clean. Even if you
sen t your crank along with the block for
cleaning, some wire tied to a strip of cloth
pulled through the oil holes will remove
what's left if the hot tank didn't get it
all. Soak the rag in carburetor cleaner or
lacquer thinner and run it through each
hole several times. If you want to be sure
61
4% rrmr s rrurrr~ally required t o put a crankshaft back into shape: Lightly polish the bearing journals with some fine-ur~r aurdsive cloth, clean up with
special attention t o the oil holes and rust-proof the machined surfaces.
the oil holes are really clean, a copper-
bristle gun-bore brush is great for the job.
You b a y have used one of these for clean-
ing the block oil holes. By all means use it
if you have one. The oil holes are the only
thing needing'cleaning at this point, how-
ever if the hot tank, or whatever you used,
didn't get all the residue off the throws
and counterweights, a stiff brush and sol-
vent can be used to get what remains.
Installation Checking Method-To do a
real-world check, install the crankshaft in
the block using oiled new bearings, but
without a rear-main seal. Torque the caps
to specification. If the crank can be
rotated freely by hand, consider it OK.
Any loads induced by what runout there
is will be minor compared to the inertial
and power-producing loads normally
applied t o the journals and bearings when
the engine is running. I suggest this way
of checking because crankshaft runout
isn't usually a problem with the normal
"tired" engne that just needs rebuilding.
If you decide to use this check, follow
the procedure for crank installation from
the engine assembly chapter.
Pilot Bearing-With a standard transmis-
sion, a pilot bearing or bushing will be in-
stalled in the center of the flywheel flange.
It supports the front of the transmission
input shaft which pilots into it, thus the
name pilot bearing. Visually check its
bore for damage. If you have an old trans-
mission input shaft, insert it into the
bearing and check for lateral play by try-
ing to move the shaft side-to-side. If there
is noticeable movement, the bearing
should be replaced. For a more accurate
check, measure its bore with a snap-gauge
and micrometer. The bearing's standard
bore diameter is 0.625 in. and its maxi-
mum allowable diameter is 0.628 in.
To be on the safe side I recommend
that you replace the pilot bearing and
don't bother to check it. The cost ismini-
mal and it's a lot easier to do now rather
than after your engine is back in place
and in operation. You can remove a pilot
bearing by using any one of four different
methods- there are more, but these are
the most common ones. Two of the
methods require special tools- a puller or
a slide hammer. The slide hammer shaft
screws into or hooks onto the back of the
pilot bearing and has a heavy sliding
handle. Sliding the handle backwards bot-
toms it against the end of the shaft. It
will eventually knock the bearing free.
The puller screws into the pilot bearing
and uses a steady force to pull the bearing
rather than an impact force. Tightening a
nut on the puller gradually pulls the bear-
jing out of its bore. Two homemade
methods employ the same basics. The first
involves filling the pilot-bearing bore with
grease. To remove the bearing, insert
either an old input shaft, a short 518-in.
diameter bar or a bolt (with its threads
cut off) in the bore and hit it with a
hammer. Hydraulic pressure will force the
bearing loose eventually. The final method
uses a coarse-threaded 1 1 116-in.-diameter
bolt ground with a long taper on its end-
the first three or four threads. The bolt
can be threaded into the bearing until it
bottoms on the crankshaft. Keep turning
the bolt until it pushes the bearing out.
Regardless of the method you choose to
use, make a note of how deep the bearing
was located in the end of the crank and
replace it in the same position.
Prior to installing your new bearing,
soak it in oil. The bearing is made from
Oilite, a special bronze which is self-
lubricating, but soaking it in oil gives it
additional lubrication. Also grease the
bearing bore in the end of the crankshaft
t o assist in installing the bearing. Line the
bearing up with the crank bore and tap
the bearing into place. Use a brass mallet
and a thick-walled tube or pipe which fits
the outer edge of the bearing to prevent
distorting the bearing's bore as it is driven
into place. When starting to drive the
bearing in, go easy at first being careful
not to let the bearing get cocked. Once it
is started straight, it should go the rest of
the way. If it does cock, stop and remove
it, then start over. Drive the bearing in
until it lines up with the bottom of the
counterbore in the center of your crank-
shaft. Check the bearing by putting the
transmission input shaft into the bearing
bore. The shaft should enter and turn
easily without binding.
CAMSHAFT AND LIFTERS
After leaving a very tough customer like
the crankshaft, we now come to one not
so tough-the camshaft and its lifters. As
opposed t o a crankshaft, once a cam starts
wearing it's usually not long before the

All that's normally required to put a crankshaft back into shape: Lightly polish the bearing journals with some finegrit abrasive cloth, clean up with
special attention to the oil holes and rustproof the machined surfaces.
the oil holes are r e ~ l i l y clean, a copper-
bristle gun-bore brush is great for the job .
You may have used one of these for clean-
ing the block oil holes . By all means use it
if you have one . The oil holes are the only
thing needing cleaning at this pain t, how-
ever if the hot tank, or whatever you used,
didn't get all the residue off the throws
and counterweights, a stiff brush and sol-
vent can be used to get what remains.
Installation Checking Method-To do a
real-world check, install the crankshaft in
the block using oiled new bearings , but
withou t a rear-main seaL Torque the caps
to specification. If the crank can be
rotated freely by hand, consider it OK.
Any loads induced by what runout there
is will be minor compared to the inertial
and power-producing loads normally
applied to the journals and bearings when
the engine is running. I suggest this way
of checking because crankshaft runout
isn' t usually a problem with the normal
"tired" engine that just needs rebuilding.
If you decide to use this check, follow
the procedure for crank installation from
the engine assembly chapter.
Pilot Bearing-With a standard transmis-
sion, a pilot bearing or bushing will be in-
stalled in the center of the flywheel flange.
It supports the front of the transmission
input shaft which pilots into it , thus the
name pilot bearing. Visually check its
bore for damage . If you have an old trans-
mission input shaft, insert it into the
bearing and check for lateral play by try
ing to move the shaft sidetoside. If there
is noticeable movement , the bearing
62
should be replaced. For a more accurate
check, measure its bore with a snapgauge
and micrometer . The bearing's standard
bore diameter is 0.625 in. and its maxi-
mum allowable diameter is 0.628 in.
To be on the safe side I recommend
that you replace the pilot bearing and
don't bother to check it. The cost is mini-
mal and it's a lot easier to do now rather
than after your engine is back in place
and in operation. You can remove a pilot
bearing by using anyone of four different
methods- there are more, but these are
the most common ones. Two of the
methods require special tools- a puller or
a slide hammer. The slide hammer shaft
screws into or hooks onto the back of the
pilot bearing and has a heavy sliding
handle. Sliding the handle backwards bot-
toms it against the end of the shaft. It
will eventually knock the bearing free .
The puller screws into the pilot bearing
and uses a steady force to pull the bearing
rather than an impact force. Tightening a
nut on the puller gradually pulls the bear-
jing out of its bore. Two homemade
methods employ the same basics. The first
involves filling the pilot bearing bore with
grease. To remove the bearing, insert
either an old input shaft, a short S/8in.
diameter bar or a bolt (with its threads
cut off) in the bore and hit it with a
hammer. Hydraulic pressure will force the
bearing loose even tualty. The final method
uses a coarsethreaded 11 /16-in .diameter
bolt ground with a long taper on its end-
the first three or four threads . The bolt
can be threaded in to the bearing un til it
bottoms on the crankshaft. Keep turning
the bolt un til it pushes the bearing ou t.
Regardless of the method you choose to
use , make a note of how deep the bearing
was located in the end of the crank and
replace it in the same position.
Prior to installing your new bearing,
soak it in oil. The bearing is made from
Oilite, a special bronze which is self-
lubricating, but soaking it in oil gives it
additional lubrication. Also grease the
bearing bore in the end of the crankshaft
to assist in installing the bearing. Line the
bearing up with the crank bore and tap
the bearing into place. Use a brass mallet
and a thick-walled tube or pipe which fits
the outer edge of the bearing to prevent
distorting the bearing's bore as it is driven
into place. When starting to drive the
bearing in, go easy at first being careful
not to let the bearing get cocked. Once it
is started straight, it should go the rest of
the way . If it does cock, stop and remove
it, then start over. Drive the bearing in
until it lines up with the bottom of the
counterbore in the center of your crank
shaft. Check the bearing by putting the
transmission input shaft into the bearing
bore . The shaft should enter and turn
easily without binding.
CAMSHAFT AND LIFTERS
After lea ving a very tough customer like
the crankshaft, we now come to one not
so tough-the camshaft and its lifters. As
opposed to a crankshaft , once a cam starts
wearing it's usually not long before the
A puller being used to remove a pilot bearing
from the end of a crankshaft. The flywheel is
on this crankshaft because the bearing is being
replaced as part of a clutch replacement and
not an engine rebuild.
cam lobes and lifters are gone. Conse-
quently, you must give your old camshaft
and lifters a very good look before
deciding to reuse them. Two hard and
fast rules apply to camshaft and lifter
combinations:
1 . When reusing a camshaft and its lifters,
never install the lifters out of order. The
lifters must be installed on the same lobes
and in the same lifter bores.
2. Never install used lifters with a new
camshaft.
Almost without exception, the rules
related to proper cam and lifter combin-
ations and installation methods have to
do with avoiding excessively high contact
pressure between cam lobes and lifters.
The reason is, loads exerted between a
cam and its lifters during normal or
acceptable operating conditions are ex-
tremely high. Consequently, if there's any
wrong move made between now and the
first 30 minutes of engine run-in, the
chances of a camshaft and its lifters being
ruined are very high. Therefore, it's im-
portant t o adhere to proper procedures
when choosing and installing your cam-
shaft.
Camshaft Lobe and Lifter Design-To have
a clear understanding of why certain
things have to be done when dealing with
your engine's camshaft and lifters, a quick
education in cam lobe design is in order.
First is the profile of a lobe, or what one
would look like when viewing it looking
at the end of the cam. The cam profile
governs how much the valves open and
when they open and close. When a valve
is closed, the lifter is on the base circle of
the cam lobe described by a radius. When
the lifter is on the highest point of the
cam lobe, it's on the toe of the lobe and
the valve is fully opened. The accompany-
ing sketch shows the difference between
the base-circle diameter and the distance
from the toe directly across the camshaft
centerline to the base circle is the cam's
lift at the lifter-not a t the valve.
During the camshaft manufacturing
process, lobe surfaces are not ground
parallel to the camshaft cente~line, but
are ground at a rake angle-1 In most
instances. Also, the lifter foot that con-
tacts the cam, is not ground flat but has
a spherical radius, or is ground convex.
Ford used a 30-in. radius. At first this
sounds odd because one would think this
would reduce contact area between the
lobe and lifter. This machining ensures
reasonable contact pressure and good
lubrication within practical manufac-
turing tolerances. The lifter-foot radius
and lobe angle guarantee good cam-to-
lifter contact area for consistent camshaft
and lifter life.
The way camshafts and lifters are
machined serves another important func-
tion. Cam-lobe contact is made offcenter
rather than directly on the lifter's center.
Sliding friction between a cam lobe and
its lifter rotates the lifter, minimizing
wear of the two components.
CAM AND LIFTER INSPECTION
During their operating life, a cam and
itslifters gradually wear. How much de-
pends on how an engine is operated and,
more importantly, how it is maintained.
You must determine whether or not this
wear has progressed to the point that
yours shouldn't be used. I'll say it right
now. Using an old camshaft and lifters
in a newly rebuilt engine is a risky deal.
It's not uncomlnon for a new cam t o fail
during its first 100 miles of operating in
a newly rebuilt engine, let alone a used
one. Finally, if you've lost track of the
order of your lifters, toss the lifters away
right now and trade your cam in on a
reground or new cam and new lifters. The
odds of getting lifters back in the right
order onto 16 cam lobes are absolutely
astronomical: 20,922,789,890 to 1 .
Check the Camshaft First-When checking
your cam and lifters, you check the cam
first because if it's bad you'll have to
A new bronze pilot bearing. Be careful when
installing yours so as not t o distort its bore.
Drive i t in until it bottoms squarely in the
crankshaft.
replace the cam and the lifters regardless
of the condition of the lifters. Remember
the second rule, never install used lifters
with a new cam.
The first thing you do is get out your
trusty micrometers-vernier calipers are
OK-and check your cam's lobe lift.
Maybe you already did this during the
diagnosis process prior t o removing and
tearing down your engine. You'll have
used a dial indicator at the end of a push-
rod t o check the lobe lift that the rocker
arm sees, or the actual lobe lift. If you've
already used this method and have made
a determination about your cam you can
forget measuring the lobes directly be-
cause lift measured at the lifter or push-
rod is accurate.
What you are looking for when mea-
suring camshaft lobes with the cam out
of the engine is not so much their lift as
a comparison between their lifts. As I said
previously, when camshaft lobes begin to
wear, they don't do it at the same rate.
Consequently, every lobe but one may be
in good shape. To measure a cam lobe
you have t o measure each lobe in two
places. Firstb measure the lobe's base-circle
diameter 90 t o the line that goes through
its toe. This will give you the lobe's minor
dimension. Next, measure the major
dimension on the line through the toe
and cam centerline. Make both of these
measurements where there is maximum
visible wear and the same distance from
the same edge of the lobe. With these two
dimensions :
Major Diameter - Minor Diameter
= Approximate Lobe Lift
CAUTION: This method of determining
camshaft lobe lift becomes increasingly
A puller being used to remove a pilot bearing
from' the end of a crankshaft. The flywheel is
on this crankshaft because the bearing is being
replaced as part of a clutch replacement and
not an engine rebuild.
cam lobes and lifters are gone. Conse-
quently, you must give your old camshaft
and lifters a very good look before
deciding to reuse them. Two hard and
fast rules apply to camshaft and lifter
com binations:
I . When reusing a camshaft and its lifters,
never instalJ the lifters out of order. The
lifters must be installed on the same lobes
and in the same lifter bores .
2. Never install used lifters with a new
camshaft.
Almost without exception, the rules
related to proper cam and lifter combin-
ations and installation methods have to
do with avoiding excessively high contact
pressure between cam lobes and lifters.
The reason is, loads exerted between a
cam and its lifters during normal or
acceptable operating conditions are ex-
tremely high. Consequen tly, if there's any
wrong move made between now and the
first 30 minutes of engine run-in, the
chances of a camshaft and its lifters being
ruined are very high. Therefore , it's im-
portant to adhere to proper procedures
when choosing and installing your cam-
shaft.
Camshaft Lobe and Lifter Design-To have
a clear understanding of why certain
things have to be done when dealing with
your engine's camshaft and lifters, a quick
education in cam lobe design is in order.
First is the profile of a lobe, or what one
would look like when viewing it looking
at the end of the cam. The cam profile
governs how much the valves open and
when they open and close. When a valve
is closed, the lifter is on the base circle of
the cam lobe described by a radius. When
the lifter is on the highest point of the
cam lobe , it's on the toe of the lobe and
the valve is fully opened. The accompany-
ing sketch shows the difference between
the base-circle diameter and the distance
from the toe directly across the camshaft
A new bronze pilot bearing. Be careful when
installing yours so as not to distort its bore.
Drive it in until it bottoms squarely in the
crankshaft.
cen terline to the base circle is the cam's
lift at the lifter-not at the valve.
During the camshaft manufactUring
process, lobe surfaces are not ground
parallel to the camshaft centerline , but
are ground at a rake angle-l Oin most
instances . Also , the lifter foot that con-
tacts the cam, is not ground Oat but has
a spherical radius, or is ground convex.
Ford used a 30-in. radius. At first this
sounds odd because one would think this
would reduce contact area between the
lobe and li fter. This machining ensures
reasonable contact pressure and good
lubrication within practical manufac-
turing tolerances. The lifter-foot radius
and lobe angle guarantee good cam-to-
lifter contact area for consistent camshaft
and lifter life.
The way camshafts and lifters are
machined serves another importan t func-
tion. Cam-lobe contact is made off-center
rather than directly on the lifter's center.
Sliding frict ion between a cam lobe and
its lifter rotates the lifter , minimizing
wear of the two components .
CAM AND LIFTER INSPECTION
During their operating life , a cam and
its lifters gradually wear. How much de-
pends on how an engine is opera ted and,
more importantly, how it is maintained.
You must determine whether or not this
wear has progressed to the point that
yours shouldn't be used . I'll say it right
now. Using an old camshaft and lifters
in a newly rebuilt engine is a risky deal.
It's not uncommon for a new cam to fail
during its first 100 miles of operating in
a newly rebuilt engine, let alone a used
one. Finally, if you've lost track of the
order of your lifters , toss the lifters away
right now and trade your cam in on a
reground or new cam and new lifters. The
odds of getting lifters back in the right
order onto 16 cam lobes are absolutely
astronomical: 20,922,789,890 to I.
Check the Camshaft First-When checking
your cam and lifters, you check the cam
first because if it's bad you'll have to
replace the cam and the lifters regardless
of the condition of the lifters. Remember
the second rule, never install used lifters
with a new cam.
The first thing you do is get out your
trusty micrometers- vernier calipers are
OK-and check your cam's lobe lift.
Maybe you already did this during the
diagnosis process prior to removing and
tearing down your engine. You'll have
used a dial indicator at the end of a push-
rod to check the lobe lift that the rocker
arm sees, or the actual lobe lift. If you've
already used this method and have made
a determination about your cam you can
forget measuring the lobes directly be-
cause lift measured at the lifter or push-
rod is accurate.
What you are looking for when mea-
suring camshaft lobes with the cam out
of the engine is not so much their lift as
a comparison between their lifts . As I sai d
previously, when camshaft lobes begin to
wear, they don't do it at the same rate .
Consequently, every lobe but one may be
in good shape. To measure a cam lobe
you have to measure each lobe in two
places . First
b
measure the lobe's base-circle
diameter 90 to the line that goes through
its toe . This will give you the lobe's minor
dimension. Next , measure the major
dimension on the line through the toe
and cam centerline . Make both of these
measure men ts where there is maximum
visible wear and the same distance from
the same edge of the lobe. With these two
dimensions:
Major Diameter - Minor Diameter
= Approximate Lobe Lift
CAUTION: This method of determining
camshaft lobe lift becomes increasingly
63
FOOT RADl US
BASE CI RCLE
inaccurate with high-lift, high-perfor-
mance camshafts.
After arriving at a figure for each lobe
compare all the intake lobes, then com-
pare all the exhaust-lobe figures. If t he
figures aren' t within 0. 005 i n. you know
some lobes are worn excessively and the
cam should be replaced. As for wh c h of
t he lobes are for intake and which are for
exhaust valves, from either end of the
camshaft they are:
I E E I I E E I I E E I I E E I .
Another thing t o notice is the wear
pattern on each lobe, particularly at the
toe. If the wear has ext ended from one
side of t he toe t o the ot her, the cam has
seen its better days and should be re-
placed, even though its lift checks OK.
This goes for pitting t oo. Any signs of
pitting on the lift areas of a lobe indi-
cates metal loss which will probably show
up on its mating lifter. A "full-width''
wear pattern or pitting of a cam's lobes
indicates the cam and lifters should be
replaced.
Cam Bearing Journals Are "Bullet-
Proofw-As for bearing journals, they
never seem t o wear out-at least I've
never seen any worn out . However, if
you feel compelled t o check yours while
your micrometer is handy, do it. Check-
ing never hurt anything and the key t o
building a good engine is check, check
and recheck. Just like the crankshaft,
there are five camshaft bearing journals,
but unlike the crank, they are all dif-
A vlsual i nspecti on of t he camshaft-l obe wear
I J
Put t i ng t he f oot - end of t wo of your wor n l i f t ers
together wi l l t el l you if any spherical radius
exists. I f y ou can't r ock t hem relative t o one
another, t hey can't be reused and your cam and
l i f t ers must be replaced.
The di fference between these t wo measurements wi l l give y ou camshaft lobe l i f t . It shoul d measure
approxi mat el y 0.23"-0.30" dependi ng on whi ch engine you have. Thi s met hod is not accurate f or
determining htgh-performance cam l i f t . The ramp area of a l ong-durat i on cam extends farther around
t he base ci rcl e resul ti ng i n a larger-than-actual base-circle di ameter reading, or a less-than-actual l obe
lift. See chart on page 9 f or l obe l i fts.
ferent sizes. Numbering the journals
from front-to-back, the limits for all
small-block bearing-journal diameters are:
pat t ern and t he l i f t er f oot wi l l tel l you i f your
cam shoul d be replaced. I f t he wear pat t ern is
t he wi dt h o f t he cam-l obe t oe and t he l i f t er
f oot is wor n f l at or concave, your camshaft and
l i fters need replacing.
Bearing Journal Diameter
Number (inches)
1 2.0805-2.081 5
2 2.0655-2.0665
3 2.0505-2.051 5
4 2.0355-2.0365
5 2.0205-2.021 5
Cam journals also have a maximum
out-of-round and runout spec like t he
crank, a 0.0005-in. limit for out-of-
round and a 0.005-in limit for runout .
Again, it's unlikely these limits will be
exceeded unless your engine has been
"gone through" previously and a many-
time-recycled cam installed. If this is
Here are t he parts o f a hydraul i c valve l i fter. If
y ou disassemble yours f or cleaning, make certai n
you don' t lose any parts or interchange any
plungers between l i f t er bodies.
the case, you'll be better off replacing t he
cam anyway. When checking cam-journal
runout , use the same met hod used for
checking crankshaft journals-find maxi-
mum and minimum dimensions and sub-
tract t hem. As for runout , you can't
check it unless you have centers t o mount
and rotate t he cam on or a surface plate
and some angle blocks in addition t o a
dial indicator. However, don' t worry
about i t . Cam runout is t he least of your
worries because i t seldom happens. The
real check is if it turns easily when in-
stalled in the block. If i t does, consider
i t OK.
Check Your Lifters If t he Cam Is OK-I
may sound like a broken record, but be
careful not t o get t he lifters out of order.
If you do, you must pay the price and re-
place the lifters, even if the cam checks
FOOT RADIUS
E
LIFT
BASE CIRCLE
A visual inspection of the camshaft-lobe wear
pattern and the lifter foot will tell you if your
cam should be replaced_ If the wear pattern is
the width of the cam-lobe toe and the lifter
foot is worn flat or concave, your camshaft and
lifters need replacing_
inaccurate with high-lift, high-perfor-
mance camshafts.
After arriving at a figure for each lobe
compare all the intake lobes , then com-
pare all the exhaust-lobe figures. If the
figures aren 't wi thin 0 .005 in . you know
some lobes are worn excessively and the
cam should be replaced. As for whi ch of
the lobes are for in take and which are for
exhaust valves, from either end of the
camshaft they are:
IEEIIEEIIEEIIEEI.
Another thing to notice is the wear
pattern on each lobe, particularly at the
toe . If the wear has extended from one
side of the toe to the other, the cam has
seen its better days and should be re-
placed, even though its lift checks OK.
This goes for pitting too . Any signs of
pitting on the lift areas of a lobe indi-
ca tes metal loss which will probably show
up on its mating lifter. A "full-width"
wear pattern or pitting of a cam's lobes
indicates the cam and lifters should be
replaced .
Cam Bearing Journals Are "Bullet-
Proof"-As for bearing journals, they
never seem to wear out-at least I've
never seen any worn out. However, if
you feel compelled to check yours while
your mi crome ter is handy, do it. Check-
ing never hurt anything and the key to
building a good engine is check, check
and recheck. Just like the crankshaft,
there are five camshaft bearing journals,
but unlike the crank, they are all dif-
64
~ ."'- ..
~ .
'. " , ~ . . -
~ . ~
The difference between these two measurements will give you camshaft lobe lift. It should measure
approximately 0.23"-0.30" depending on which engine you have. This method is not accurate for
determining high-performance cam lift. The ramp area of a long-duration cam extends farther around
the base circle resulting in a larger-than-actual base-circle diameter reading, or a less-than-actual lobe
lift . See chart on page 9 for lobe lifts_
Putting the foot-end of two of your worn lifters
together will tell you if any spherical radiu's
exists. If you can't rock them relative to one
another, they can't be reused and your cam and
lifters must be replaced.
ferent sizes. Numbering the journals
from front-to-back, the limits for all
small-block bearing-journal diameters are:
Bearing
Number
1
2
3
4
5
Jou rnal Diameter
{inches}
2.0805-2.0815
2.0655-2.0665
2.0505-2.0515
2.0355-2.0365
2.0205-2.0215
Cam journals also have a maXimum
out-of-round and runout spec like the
crank, a O.OOOS-in. limit for out-of-
round and a O.OOS-in limit for runout.
Again, it's unlikely these limits will be
exceeded unless your engine has been
"gone through" preViously and a many-
time-recycled cam installed. If this is

o
Here are the parts of a hydraulic valve lifter. If
you disassemble yours for cleaning, make certain
you don't lose any parts or interchange any
plungers between lifter bodies.
the case, you'll be better off replacing the
cam anyway. When checking cam-journal
Tunout , use the same method used for
checking crankshaft journals-find maxi-
mum and minimum dimensions and sub-
tract them. As for runout, you can't
check it unless you have centers to mount
and rotate the cam on or a surface plate
and some angle blocks in addition to a
dial indica tor. However, don't worry
about it. Cam Tunout is the least of your
worries because it seldom happens. The
real check is if it turns easily when in-
stalled in the block. If it does, consider
it OK.
Check Your Lifters If the Cam Is OK-I
may sound like a broken record, but be
careful not to get the lifters out of order.
If you do, you must pay the price and re-
place the lifters, even if the cam checks
Complete piston and connecting-rod assembly
including bearings and piston rings. Wrist pin is
retained in the assembly by an interference f i t
between the pin and the connecting-rod pin
bore. Drawing courtesy Ford.
OK. Of course, you won't have to bother
checking the lifters if your cam is not re-
usable. If you can reuse the cam, proceed.
The thing you're looking for when
checking lifters is the spherical radius at
the foot. If the radius is gone, the lifter
is junk. Because this radius is so large-
about 30 inches-it's difficult to check
it with a straight edge, even if the lifter
is brand new. So double the radius by
butting two lifters together end-to-end.
They will rock back-and-forth noticeably
if any radius is left. If they won't rock,
the lifter is either worn flat or concave
and the lifter is junk. I hate to keep
saying this, but because of the touchy
nature of a camshaft you must be aware
of the consequences. If the lifter is worn
concave, not only the lifter should be
replaced, but the cam also-even though
lift checks, out OK. I F this is the case,
chances are the wear pattern shows all
the way across the toe of the lobe this
lifter was mated with.
Clean the Lifters-Concern yourself with
cleaning your lifters only if your cam is
reusable and the lifters are OK. Clean the
varnish buildup from around the foot of
the lifters and any sludge or varnish
which has accumulated inside the lifters
if they are the hydraulic type. The out-
side will clean by soaking the lifters in
carburetor cleaner available at your
local automotive parts store. Soaking
doesn't get the inside at all. You can take
two approaches here.
The first and easiest method of clean-
ing a hydraulic lifter is t o use an oil squirt
can t o force lacquer thinner through the
hole on the side of the lifter body as you
work the plunger up and down. The most
positive method of doing it is to take the
lifter apart, but it's also the most difficult
method. There are eight parts t o contend
with, starting with the retainingclip inside
the groove at the top of the lifter body.
Be careful during disassembly so you
don't damage the lifter components or
lose any of the little parts. Disassemble
and clean one lifter at a time so there's
no chance of mixing up the parts because
they are matched sets. You'll need small
needle-nose pliers and a lot of patience,
so much that you may decide t o revert to
the lacquer thinner and squirt-can ap-
proach. If you do decide to continue
with this method you may discover a
need t o use the squirt can t o help loosen
up the plunger so it will come out of the
lifter body. Do this after you've removed
the retaining clip, pushrod cup and meter-
ing valve. By working the plunger up and
down with a few injections of thinner
into the body, the plunger should grad-
ually work its way out: Besides the
plunger, you'll have more parts t o con-
tend with as the plunger comes out. They
are easy to lose, so be careful.
After cleaning each of the lifter's
components separately, reassemble that
lifter before starting on another one.
This prevents mixing components and it's
easier t o keep the lifters in order. To
assemble a lifter, stand the plunger on
your work bench upside down and
assemble the parts that go below it in the
-
A ring expander is handy for removing or installing piston rings.
POSITIONING VALVE
NOTCH
RELI EF
COMPRESSION-RING
GROOVES
WRIST-PIN BORE
When measuring a piston, do it level with
the wrist-pin and 90 to its axis. Width
measured across the bottom of the skirts
should beslightly larger-about 0.0005 in.
I n addition to the piston nomenclature, note the notch One thing is wrong with the picture. The
or arrow in the top of the piston. I t is important for piston and connecting rod has been dis-
assembling a piston to its connecting rod, then for assembled. This may not be necessary,
installing the complete assembly in its bore. so don't do it.
UPPER LOWER
COMPRESSION COMPRESSION

. PISTON
PIN

NUT--.....
Complete piston and connectingrod assembly
including bearings and piston rings. Wrist pin is
retained in the assembly by an interference fit
between the pin and the connectingrod pin
bore. Drawing courtesy Ford.
OK. Of course, you won't have to bother
checking the lifters if your cam is not re-
usable. If you can reuse the cam, proceed.
The thing you're looking for when
checking lifters is the spherical radius at
the foot. If the radius is gone, the lifter
is junk. Because this radius is so large-
about 30 inches-it's difficult to check
it with a straight edge, even if the lifter
is brand new. So double the radius by
butting two lifters together end-toend.
They will rock back-and-forth noticeably
if any radius is left. If they won't rock,
the lifter is either worn flat or concave
and the lifter is junk. I hate to keep
saying this, but because of the touchy
nature of a camshaft you must be aware
of the consequences. If the lifter is worn
concave, not only the lifter should be
replaced, but the cam also-even though
lift checks out OK. IF this is the case,
chances are the wear pattern shows all
the way across the toe of the lobe this
lifter was mated with.
Clean the Lifters-Concern yourself with
cleaning your lifters only if your cam is
reusable and the lifters are OK. Clean the
varnish buildup from around the foot of
the lifters and any sludge or varnish
which has accumuJated inside the lifters
if they are the hydraulic type. The out-
side will clean by soaking the lifters in
carburetor cleaner available at your
local automotive parts store . Soaking
doesn't get the inside at all. You can take
two approaches here.
The first and easiest method of clean-
ing a hydraulic lifter is to use an oil squirt
can to force lacquer thinner through the
hole on the side of the lifter body as you
work the plunger up and down . The most
positive method of doing it is to take the
lifter apart, but it's also the most difficult
method. There are eight parts to contend
with, starting with the retaining clip inside
the groove at the top of the lifter body.
Be careful during disassembly so . you
don't damage the lifter components or
lose any of the little parts . Disassemble
and clean one lifter at a time so there's
no chance of mixing up the parts because
they are matched sets. You'll need small
needlenose pliers and a lot of patience,
so much that you may decide to revert to
the lacquer thinner and squirt-can ap-
proach. If you do decide to continue
with this method you may discover a
need to use the squirt can to help loosen
up the plunger so it will come out of the
lifter body . Do this after you've removed
the retaining clip, pushrod cup and meter-
ing valve. By working the plunger up and
down with a few injections of thinner
into the body, the plunger should grad-
ually work its way out: Besides the
plunger, you'll have more parts to con
tend with as the plunger comes out. They
are easy to lose, so be careful.
After cleaning each of the lifter's
components separately, reassemble that
lifter before starting on another one.
This prevents mixing components and it's
easier to keep the lifters in order. To
assemble a lifter, stand the plunger on
your work bench upside down and
assemble the parts that go below it in the
A ring expander is handy for removing or installing piston rings.
POSITIONING
NOTCH
OR ARROW
VALVE
RELIEF
I
WRISTPIN BORE
I n addition to the piston nomenclature, note the notch
or arrow in the top of the piston. It is important for
assembling a piston to its connecting rod, then for
installing the complete assembly in its bore.
When measuring a piston, do it level with
the wristpin and 90 to its axis. Width
measured across the bottom of the skirts
should be slightly larger-about 0.0005 in.
One thing is wrong with the picture. The
piston and connecting rod has been dis
assembled. This may not be necessary,
so don't do it.
65
Scuff marks on a piston's skirt indicate the
engine has been severely overheated, resulting
in the skirts being overstressed and possibly
collapsed.
lifter body on the plunger. Depending on
the type lifter you have, there will be in
order a check valve, a small check-valve
spring, and/or a.check-valve retainer and a
plunger spring. With these stacked up on
the plunger, oil the ID of the lifter body
and slide it down over the plunger, check
valve and spring assembly. You can now
turn this assembly over and install the
metering valve and disc or just a metering
valve, again depending on the type lifter
you have, the pushrod cup and retain the
complete assembly with the retaining
clip. One lifter cleaned and assembled. Do
this 15 more times and you're finished
cleaning your lifters.
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
Replace the Pistons?-If your block has
to be rebored for one reason or another,
you'll have to replace your pistons-the
holes are too big now. However, if you
determine from the following that most
of your pistons should be replaced, then
the block should've been bored in the
first place. The cost of pistons is the
major expense, so you may as well give
your engine a new start with larger pis-
tons and new straight bores. Also, its
durability will be as good or better
than new, depending on the care you take
during the course of the rebuild.
BENT
I
TWISTED BENT
The first two rods, bent and twisted as shown in these exaggerated drawings, cause uneven piston
skirt wear as the pistons are tilted in their bores. The first rod, with its wrist-pin axis bent out of
parallel with its baring-bore axis, tilts the piston mostly at TDC and BDC. The twisted rod does its
tilting progressively toward the mid-point of its stroke. A connecting rod bent like the third one
shown doesn't affect piston wear or engine performance. Consequently i t can be reinstalled unless
the bend is obvious t o the eye or it's for an all-out performance engine.
CHECKING THE PISTONS
If your engine doesn't have to be
rebored then your next step is to check
the pistons to establish whether or not
they are reusable before disassembling
them from the rods. Remove the old rings
from the pistons and toss them away. Be
careful when doing this so you don't
scratch the pistons. A ring expander will
help. Don't remove the rings over the
skirt, remove the top ring first, then the
second followed by the oil ring. If you do
this by hand, make sure the ends of the
rings don't gouge the piston. For con-
venience, support the piston-and-rod
assembly so it doesn't flip-flop whl e
you're trying t o remove the rings. Clamp
the rod lightly in a vise with the bottom
of the piston against the vise. If you don't
have a vise, you can clamp the rod to the
edge of your workbench with a C-clamp-
again not too tightly.
Four items should be checked before
a piston is given the OK: general damage
to the dome, skirt or ring lands, ring-
groove wear, piston-skirt and pin bore
wear. If any one of these items proves
unsatisfactory, replace the piston.
General Damage-Not so obvious damage
that can render a piston useless are skirt
scuffing or scoring, skirt collapse, ring-
land damage and dome burning. More
obvious damage can be done by some-
thing such as a valve dropping into the
cylinder.
Scuffing and scoring is caused by lack
of proper lubrication, excessively high
operating temperatures or a bent con-
necting rod, all of which cause excessive
pressure or temperature between the
piston and cylinder wall. If there are
visible scuffing or scoring marks-linear
marks in the direction of piston travel-I
advise replacing the piston. Scuff-marking
indicates the engine was excessively over-
heated. If the piston has unsymmetrical
worn surfaces on the slurt thrust faces, a
twisted or bent connecting rod is the
likely culprit and should be checked and
corrected. An engine machine shop has
the equipment to do this and it should be
a normal part of their routine when re-
building an engine to check all the con-
necting rods regardless of what the old
pistons look like. However, if you are on
a tight budget the wear pattern on the
pistons will tell you what you want to
know. Otherwise it's n o t a bad idea to
have all your rods checked.
Damage to a piston's dome usually
comes in the form of material being re-
moved as a result of being overheated
from detonation or preignition. The edges
Scuff marks on a piston's skirt indicate the
engine has been severely overheated, resulting
in the skirts being overstressed and possibly
collapsed.
I{fter body on the plunger. Depending on
the type lifter you have, there will be in
order a check valve, a small check-valve
spring, and/or a.check-valve retainer and a
plunger spring. With these stacked up on
the plunger, oil the ID of the lifter body
and slide it down over the plunger, check
valve and spring assembly. You can now
turn this assembly over and install the
metering valve and disc or just a metering
valve, again depending on the type lifter
you have , the pushrod cup and retain the
complete assembly with the retaining
clip. One lifter cleaned and assembled. Do
this 15 more times and you're finished
cleaning your lifters.
Replace the Pistons? -If your block has
to be rebored for one reason or another ,
you'll have to replace your pistons-the
holes are too big now. However , if you
determine from the following that most
of your pistons should be replaced , then
the block should've been bored in the
first place. The cost of pistons is the
major expense, so you may as well give
your engine a new start with larger pis
tons and new straight bores. Also, its
durability will be as good or better
than new, depending on the care you take
during the course of the rebuild.
66
BENT TWISTED BENT
The first two rods, bent and twisted as shown in these exaggerated drawings, cause uneven piston
skirt wear as the pistons are tilted in their bores. The first rod, with its wristpin axis bent out of
parallel with its bearingbore axis, tilts the piston mostly at TOC and BOC. The twisted rod does its
tilting progressively toward the midpoint of its stroke. A connecting rod bent like the third one
shown doesn't affect piston wear or engine performance. Consequently it can be reinstalled unless
the bend is obvious to the eye or it's for an allout performance engine.
CHECKING THE PISTONS
If your engine doesn't have to be
rebored then your next step is to check
the pistons to establish whether or not .
they are reusable before disassembling
them from the rods. Remove the old rings
from the pistons and toss them away . Be
careful when doing this so you don' t
scratch the pistons. A ring expander will
help . Don' t remove the rings over the
skirt, remove the top ring first, then the
second followed by the oil ring. If you do
this by hand , make sure the ends of the
rings don't gouge the piston. For con-
venience, support the piston-and-rod
assembly so it doesn't flip-flop while
you're trying to remove the rings . Clamp
the rod lightly in a vise with the bottom
of the piston against the vise. If you don't
have a vise , you can clamp the rod to the
edge of your workbench with a C-clamp-
again not too tigh tly .
Four items should be checked before
a piston is given the OK: general damage
to the dome , skirt or ring lands, ring-
groove wear , piston-skirt and pin bore
wear. If anyone of these items proves
unsatisfactory , replace the piston.
General Damage-Not so obvious damage
that can render a piston useless are skirt
scuffing or scoring, skirt collapse, ring-
land damage and dome burning. More
obvious damage can be done by some-
thing such as a valve dropping into the
cylinder.
Scuffing and scoring is caused by lack
of proper lubrication, excessively high
operating temperatures or a bent con-
necting rod , all of which cause excessive
pressure or temperature between the
piston and cylinder wall. If there are
visible scuffing or scoring marks - linear
marks in the direction of piston travel-I
advise replacing the piston. Scuff-marking
indicates the engine was excessively over-
heated. If the piston has unsymmetrical
worn surfaces on the skirt thrust faces, a
twisted or bent connecting rod is the
likely culprit and should be checked and
corrected. An engine machine shop has
the equipment to do this and it should be
a normal part of their routine when re-
building an engine to check all the con-
necting rods regardless of what the old
pistons look like . However, if you are on
a tight budget the wear pattern on the
pistons will tell you what you want to
know. Otherwise it's not a bad idea to
have all your rods checked.
Damage to a piston's dome usually
comes in the form of material being re-
moved as a result of being overheated
from detonation or preignition . The edges
Checking pin-bore wear by twisting connecting Start cleaning your pi . - - ~~s by r e m g carbon from their tops. A dull screwdriver is good for the
rod in direction A, then trying to rotate i t in big chunks and a wire brush will do the cleanup work, but don't touch the sides of the pistons with
direction B, 90t o its normal direction of rota- the brush. A piston can easily be ruined by careless use of a wire brush.
tion. I f you can feel movement at the pin
when holding the piston like t hi s, pin-bore wear
i s excessive.
of the dome will be rounded off or there
will be porous or spongy-looking areas
where there was high heat concentration.
To get a good look at the dome, clean off
any carbon deposits. A good tool is a
worn conventional screwdriver with
rounded corners at its tip. The normal
toolbox is usually well equiped with these.
Be careful when scraping the carbon so
you don't damage the piston by digging
into the aluminum. Don't use a sharp-
hard tool like a chisel or gasket scraper.
Detonation, or the explosion of the
fuel charge, can also cause broken or
distorted ring lands through impact
loading. Check the top ring land for this
condition. It receives the brunt of the
compression loading. Consequently, if
it's not damaged, the others will be OK.
Broken ring lands are readily visible, but
a bent one may not be, particularly with-
out a ring in the groove to use as a refer-
ence. Reinstall a ring in the top groove
and use a feeler gauge which fits snuggly
between the ring and the groove. Go
around the groove checking for any ring
side-clearance changes which may indi-
cate a bent ring land. The top ring land is
also the one that gets the wear from an
engine inhaling dirt. The wear will be on
its upper surface and even all the way
around.
Any of the types of damage I have
just mentioned are causes for discarding
a piston.
Piston-Skirt Diameter-It's micrometer
time again. Mike each piston 90' t o its
connecting-rod pin axis in the plane of
the pin and compare this figure to what
the piston mikes across the bottom of its
skirt. If the skirt is not wider by a least
0.0005 in. than at the pin the piston
should be replaced because this indicates
the skirt is partially collapsed. Skirt
collapse is usually accompanied by heavy
scoring or scuff marks on the skirt-sure
signs that the engine was severely over-
heated at least once. If a piston with
these symptoms were to be reinstalled,
you'd have a very noisy engine which
would eventually experience total piston
skirt failure. When an engine overheats,
the piston tries to expand more than its
bore. If the engine is heated too much,
the piston skirt squeezes out the oil
cushion between the piston and the bore.
Not only does the skirt contact the bore,
it is overstressed so both scuffing or
scoring and skirt collapse occur. After
the piston returns to its normal tempera-
ture its bore clearance will be excessive
and the engine will be noisy.
Piston-Pin Bore Wear-Measuring pin-bore
wear requires disassembling the piston
and rod assembly. A practical and easier
way of doing this is to feel for the wear.
The nominal pin clearance is 0.0003
in. and should not exceed a 0.0008 in.
Excess clearance will show up when you
try wiggling or rotating the connecting
rod 90 to its normal direction or rota-
tion. First clean each piston with solvent
t o remove any oil between the piston and
the pin. Oil takes up clearance and suf-
ficiently cushions movement t o give the
impression the piston-to-rod relationship
is OK when it's not. Now, with the
piston and rod at room temperature, if
you feel movement as you try to wiggle
the rod sideways, the pin bore is worn
beyond the limit and the piston should
be replaced. Otherwise it's OK.
Clean The Ring Grooves First-I saved
this job till last because cleaning the ring
grooves is a tough job and you have to
do it before checking the ring grooves.
So, if some or all of the pistons didn't
pass your previous tests, you've avoided
unnecessary work. Youll need something
t o clean the ring grooves without damag-
ing them. A special tool for doing just
this is called a ring-groove cleaner. Prices
range from $10 t o $30, depending on the
quality of the tool. A ring-groove cleaner
fits around the piston and pilots in the
groove it is cleaning. An adjustable
scraper fits in the groove and cleans
carbon and sludge deposits from the
groove as the cleaner is rotated around
the piston. If it bothers you to make a
purchase like this for a "one-time" use,
use the broken end of a piston ring t o
clean the grooves. It takes more time and
you'll have t o be careful, but it can be
done just as well. Be careful, no matter
which method you use. Caution: Don't
remove any metal or scratch the grooves,
just get rid of the deposits. Be especially
careful to avoid removing metal from the
side surfaces of the grooves as they are
the surfaces against which the rings. seal.
Measuring Ring-Groove Width-Again,
chances are if a ring groove is worn or
damaged, it will be the top one because
Checking pin-bore wear by twisting connecting
rod in direction A, then trying to rotate it in
direction B, 90 to its normal direction of rota-
tion. If you can feel movement at the pin
when holding the piston like this, pin-bore wear
is excessive.
of the dome will be rounded off or there
will be porous or spongy-looking areas
where there was high heat concentration .
To get a good look at the dome , clean off
any carbon deposits. A good tool is a
worn conventional screwdriver with
rounded corners at its tip. The normal
toolbox is usually well equiped with these.
Be careful when scraping the carbon so
you don't damage the piston by digging
into the aluminum. Don't use a sharp-
hard tool like a chisel or gasket scraper.
Detonation, or the explosion of the
fuel charge , can also cause broken or
distorted ring lands through impact
loading. Check the top ring land for this
condition_ It receives the brunt of the
compression loading. Consequently, if
it's not damaged , the others will be OK.
Broken ring lands are readily visible, but
a bent one may not be, particularly with-
out a ring in the groove to use as a refer-
ence. Reinstall a ring in the top groove
and use a feeler gauge which fits snuggly
between the ring and the groove_ Go
around the groove checking for any ring
side-clearance changes which may indi-
cate a bent ring land . The top ring land is
also the one that gets the wear from an
engine inhaling dirt. The wear will be on
its upper surface and even all the way
around.
Any of the types of damage I have
just mentioned are causes for discarding
a piston.
Piston-Skirt Diameter-It 's micrometer
time again. Mike each piston 90 to its
connecting-rod pin axis in the plane of
Start cleaning your pistons by removing carbon from their tops. A dull screwdriver is good for the
big chunks and a wire brush will do the cleanup work, but don't touch the sides of the pistons with
the brush. A piston can easily be ruined by careless use of a wire brush.
the pin and compare this figure to what
the piston mikes across the bottom of its
skirt. If the skirt is not wider by a least
0.0005 in. than at the pin the piston
shoul d be replaced because this indicates
the skirt is partially collapsed . Skirt
collapse is usually accompanied by heavy
scoring or scuff marks on the skirt-sure
signs that the engine was severely over-
heated at least once. If a piston with
these symptoms were to be reinstalled,
you ' d have a very noisy engine which
would eventually experience total piston
skirt failure . When an engine overheats,
the piston tries to expand more than its
bore . If the engine is heated too much,
the piston skirt squeezes out the oil
cushion between the piston and the bore.
Not only does the skirt con tact the bore,
it is overstressed so both scuffing or
scoring and skirt collapse occur. After
the piston returns to its normal tempera-
ture its bore clearance will be excessive
and the engine will be noisy .
Piston-Pin Bore Wear-Measuring pin-bore
wear requires disassembling the piston
and rod assembly. A practical and easier
way of doing this is to feel for the wear.
The nominal pin clearance is 0.0003
in . and should not exceed a 0.0008 in.
Excess clearance will show up when you
try wiigling or rotating the connecting
rod 90 to its normal direction or rota-
tion. First clean each piston with solvent
to remove any oil between the piston and
the pin . Oil takes up clearance and suf-
ficiently cushions movement to give the
impression the piston-to-rod relationship
is OK when it 's not. Now, with the
piston and rod at room temperature, if
you feel movement as you try to wiggle
the rod sideways , the pin bore is worn
beyond the limit and the piston should
be replaced. Otherwise it's OK.
Clean The Ring Grooves First-I saved
this job till last because cleaning the ring
grooves is a tough job and you have to
do it before checking the ring grooves .
So, if some or all of the pistons didn't
pass your previous tests, you've avoided
unnecessary work. You 11 need something
to clean the ring grooves without damag-
ing them. A special tool for doing just
this is called a ring-groove cleaner. Prices
range from $10 to $30, depending on the
quality of the tool. A ring-groove cleaner
fits around the piston and pilots in the
groove it is cleaning. An adjustable
scraper fits in the groove and cleans
carbon and sludge deposits from the
groove as the cleaner is rotated around
the piston. If it bothers you to make a
purchase like this for a "one-time" use,
use the broken end of a piston ring to
clean the grooves . It takes more time and
you 'll have to be careful , but it can be
done just as well. Be careful , no matter
whi ch method you use. Caution: Don't
remove any metal or scratch the grooves,
just get rid of the deposits . Be especially
careful to avoid removing metal from the
side surfaces of the grooves as they are
the surfaces against which the rings seal.
Measuring Ring-Groove Width-Again,
chances are if a ring groove is worn or
damaged, it will be the top one because
67
Two tools which accomplish the same thing-an official ring-groove cleaner or a broken piston ring Ring and feeler gaugechecking ring-groove wear.
ground like this. The ring is harder t o use, but a lot cheaper. Regardless of how you clean your ring New rings should have no more than 0.006 in.
grooves, be careful not t o remove any metal. side clearance.
of the higher loads. So start with it. This
doesn't mean you don't have to check the
others if the top one is OK. Unforeseen
things can happen, so check them all.
Look at the clean grooves first. Any wear
will have formed a step on the lower por-
tion of the ring land. The height of the
step shows up as additional ring side
clearance due to groove wear and the
length of the step projecting from the
back-wall of the groove represents the
piston ring's back-clearance. Side clear-
ance is what you're checking. It's the dis-
tance between one side of the ring and a
ring land measured with a ring and a
feeler gauge with the ring held against the
opposite ring land. If it is too much,
proper ring-to-piston sealing is not pos-
sible, plus the additional action of the
ring moving up and down in the groove
will accelerate wear and increase the pos-
sibility of breaking a ring land.
Compression-Ring Grooves-Compression-
ring grooves are nominally 0.080-in.
wide, new rings have a minimum 0.77-in.
width and maximum ring side clearance is
0.006 in. You are presented with a di-
lemma because the 0.006-in. side clear-
ance should be measured with a new ring
in the groove. You don't want to lay out
money for a new set of rings for checking
your old pistons until you've checked
them and have given them the OK. One
way around this is to use an old ring for
checlung. The problem is, rings wear
too, consequently more than actual side
clearance will show up if ring wear is
not accounted for. Just mike the old
ring and subtract this amount from 0.077
in., the minimum width of a new com-
pression ring. Add this figure to 0.006
for the maximum allowable checking
clearance. I'll use the term checking
clearance rather than side clearance
because the gauge thickness may not be
the actual side clearance with a new ring.
If the old ring measured 0.076 in. it is
0.001-in. undersize. Consequently max-
imum checking clearance is now 0.007
in. but it will yield a 0.006-in. side clear-
ance with a minimum-width new ring. In
formula form, this looks like:
Maximum checking clearance
= 0.006 + (0.077 - 0.076) or:
Maximum checking clearance in inches
= 0.006 + (0.077 - Checking-ring
width in inches)
When checking side clearance, insert
the edge of the ring in the groove and
insert the checking-clearance feeler gauge
between the ring and the lower side of
the ring groove. Slide the feeler and ring
completely around the groove to check
for any clearance variations and to
verify the land is free from distortion or
uneven wear. The gauge should slide the
full circumference without binding. There
is no need to install the ring into the
groove. Check both compression-ring
grooves using this method.
Oil-Ring Grooves - Nominal oil-ring
grooves are 0.1885-in. wide. The real
test uses a snug-fitting oil ring. Here's
that old problem again. You don't yet
have a new set of rings to do the check-
ing. Fortunately oil rings and their
grooves are well lubricated and aren't
heavily loaded like the compression
rings. particularly the top one. Con-
sequently, their wear is minimal, so if
they pass your visual inspection they
should be all right. However, to be
positive, measure them. To do t hs ,
stack two old compression rings together
and mike their combined thickness. Now,
use the stacked rings with your feeler
gauge t o check groove width. You don't
have to install the rings in the groove.
Just insert their edges in the groove with
the gauge and slide them around the
grooves. As an example, if the combined
thickness of two rings is 0.155 in., add
feeler-gauge thickness to get maximum oil-
ring-groove width, or 0.191 in. minus .
0.1 55 in. = maximum allowable checking
feeler-gauge thickness of 0.036 in. If the
oil-ring grooves in your pistons don't
exceed this amount you can be certain
the rings will fit snugly in their grooves.
Maximum checking gauge thickness in
inches
= 0.191 - Combined thickness of two
compression rings i n inches
Two tools which accomplish the same thing-an official ring-groove cleaner or a broken piston ring
ground like this. The ring is harder to use, but a lot cheaper. Regardless of how you clean your ring
grooves, be careful not to remove any metal.
of the higher loads. So start with it. This
doesn't mean you don't have to check the
others if the top one is OK. Unforeseen
things can happen, so check them all.
Look at the clean grooves first. Any wear
will have formed a step on the lower por-
tion of the ring land. The height of the
step shows up as additional ring side
clearance due to groove wear and the
length of the step projecting from the
back-wall of the groove represents the
piston ring's back-clearance. Side clear-
ance is what you're checking. It's the dis-
tance between one side of the ring and a
ring land measured with a ring and a
feeler gauge with the ring held against the
opposi te ring land. If it is too much,
proper ring-to-piston sealing is not pos-
sible, plus the additional action of the
ring moving up and down in the groove
will accelerate wear and increase the pos-
sibility of breaking a ring land.
Compression-Ring Grooves-Compression-
ring grooves are nominally 0.080-in.
wide, new rings have a minimum O.77-in.
width and maximum ring side clearance is
0.006 in. You are presented with a di-
lemma because the 0.006-in. side clear-
ance should be measured with a new ring
in the groove. You don't want to layout
money for a new set of rings for checking
your old pistons un til you've checked
them and have given them the OK. One
way around this is to use an old ring for
checking. The problem is , rings wear
too, consequently more than actual side
68
clearance will show up if ring wear is
not accounted for. Just mike the old
ring and subtract this amount from 0.077
in., the minimum width of a new com-
pression ring. Add this figure to 0 .006
for the maximum allowable checking
clearance. I'll use the term checking
clearance rather than side clearance
because the gauge thickness may not be
the actual side clearance with a new ring.
If the old ring measured 0 .076 in. it is
O.OOI-in. undersize. Consequently max-
imum checking clearance is now 0 .007
in. but it will yield a 0 .006-in. side clear-
ance with a minimum-width new ring. In
formula form, this looks like:
Maximum checking clearance
= 0.006 + (0.077 - 0.076) or :
Maximum checking clearance in inches
= 0.006 + (0.077 - Checking-ring
width in inches)
When checking side clearance, insert
the edge of the ring in the groove and
insert the checking-clearance feeler gauge
between the ring and the [ower side of
the ring groove. Slide the feeler and ring
completely around the groove to check
for any clearance variations and to
verify the land is free from distortion or
uneven wear . The gauge should slide the
full circumference without binding. There
is no need to install the ring in to the
groove. Check both compression-ring
grooves using this method.
Ring and feeler gauge checking ring-groove wear.
New rings should have no more than 0.006 in.
side clearance.
Oil-Ring Grooves - Nominal oil-ring
grooves are 0.1885-in. wide. The real
test uses a snug-fitting oil ring. Here's
that old problem again . You don't yet
have a new set of rings to do the check-
ing. Fortunately oil rings and their
grooves are well lubricated and aren't
heavily loaded like the compression
rings. particularly the top one. Con-
sequen tly, their wear is minimal, so if
they pass your visual inspection they
should be all right. However, to be
positive, measure them. To do this,
stack two old compression rings together
and mike their combined thickness. Now,
use the stacked rings with your feeler
gauge to check groove width. You don't
have to install the rings in the groove.
Just insert their edges in the groove with
the gauge and slide them around the
grooves. As an example, if the combined
thickness of two rings is 0.155 in., add
feeler-gauge thickness to get maximum oil-
ring-groove width, or 0.191 in. minus
0.155 in. = maximum allowable checking
feeler-gauge thickness of 0.036 in. If the
oil-ring grooves in your pistons don't
exceed this amount you can be certain
the rings will fit snugly in their grooves.
Maximum checking gauge thickness in
inches
= 0.191 - Combined thickness of two
compression rings in inches
Checking for a bent or twisted connecting rod How much a bearing insert projects above its
using a checking fixture in an engine machine bearing-bore parting line is called crush height
shop. A bent or twisted rod can be straightened (about 0.001 in.). As a bearing cap is tightened
without damage. down, the insert-half ends contact first, forcing
the insert t o conform to the shape of its bore
and to be locked into place. This is called
bearing crush.
Groove Inserts-If you have the unlikely
circumstance that your engine block
doesn't need boring, only honing to get
it back into condition, and your pistons
are OK for reuse except for having too
much ring-groove wear, you can have
your piston-ring grooves remachined
wider. This makes a l l the ring-groove
widths consistent. To compensate for the
additional clearance between the rings
and the grooves, ring-groove inserts are
installed-they are usually 0.060-in, wide
and are installed beside the rings. In
terms of cost, ridge-reaming and honing
your block, machining your pistons in
preparation for ring-groove inserts and
purchasing the rings and inserts will
cost 50-60 percent of a rebore and new
pistons and rings. In this case, durability
is directly related to cost. You can ex-
pect approximately half the life from an
engine with inserted pistons as compared
to one with the complete rebore job.
CONNECTING RODS
Inspecting connecting rods involves
checking three areas: out-of-round or
enlarged bearing bores, twisted or bent
rods and cracked rod bolts. Now's when
the old bearing inserts come in handy. If
a rod bearing shows uneven wear from
side-to-side-opposite sides on top and
bottom bearing halves-the piston on that
rod has wear spots offset from its thrust
face and the rod's crankshaft bearing
journal was not tapered, the rod is
bent, causing side loading. With these
symptoms, the rod and piston assembly
or assemblies should be taken t o an
engine machine shop for accurate check-
ing and straightening if necessary. Bearing
condition also tells you if the "big end"
of the rod needs reconditioning. "When a
rod is reconditioned the bearing bore is
checked with a special dial indicator to
determine its shape-round, out-of-round
or oversize. This is basically the same
thing you did with the crankshaft bearing
journals, however now the check is made
of the bore in which the bearings are
retained. With an out-of-round bore, its
bearing inserts will assume the same
irregularity, causing uneven load distribu-
tion between the bearing and its journal,
resulting in uneven and accelerated
bearing wear. Consequently, the bore
must be reconditioned.
A bearing with a too-large bore is
even worse. Oversized bearing bores
will let bearings move in the bore-
which is not supposed to happen. The
reason is the insert halves are not suffi-
ciently crushed. Crush occurs when a
bearing is forced into its bore. This is
accomplished by the circumference of the
outside diameter-half of a diameter for
each insert half-of the insert being
more than that of the bearing bore.
When a bearing is placed in its bore
its ends project slightly above the bearing
housing's parting surfaces. Consequently,
when two bearing inserts are installed in
their bore, the ends of the inserts butt. As
the bearing cap is tightened, the two cir-
cumferences must become equal. The
bearing shell gives-is crushed- causing
the bearing t o assume the shape of its
bore and to be preloaded, or fitted very
tightly in its bore. This tight fit and the
tooth, or machining marks in the bearing
bore, combine to prevent the bear-
ing inserts from spinning in their bores.
The reverse happens when the force at
the bearing journal which tries to rotate
the bearing overcomes the force between
the bearing and its housing, or bore
that is resisting this force. If bearing bore
is too large the bearing may move in the
bore, or worse yet, spin.
To determine if a bearing has been
moving in its bore, look at its backside.
Shiny spots on the back of the shell
indicate movement. If this happened,
either the bearing bore is too large or the
bearing-to-journal clearance was insuffi-
cient. If you discover any shiny spots the
rod/s need to be checked with a dial-indi-
cator that's part of an engine builder's
connecting-rod reconditioning hone. Re- .
condition the rod/s as necessary.
When a connecting rod is recondi-
tioned, some material is precision ground
from the bearing cap mating surfaces.
Next the cap is reinstalled on the rod,
bolts are torqued to spec and the bore is
honed to the correct diameter. Honing
corrects the bearing-bore diameter and
concentricity and also restores the tooth,
or surface of the bore which grabs the in-
serts to prevent them from spinning.
Checking for a bent or twisted connecting rod
using a checking fixture in an engine machine
shop. A bent or twisted rod can be straightened
without damage.
Groove Inserts-If you have the unlikely
circumstance that your engine block
doesn' t need boring, only honing to get
it back into condition, and your pistons
are OK for reuse except for having too
much ring-groove wear, you can have
your pistonring grooves remachined
wider. This makes all the ring-groove
widths consistent. To compensate for the
additional clearance between the rings
and the grooves, ringgroove inserts are
installed- they are usually 0 .060-in. wide
and are installed beside the rings. In
terms of cost, ridge-reaming and honing
your block, machining your pistons in
prepara tion for ring-groove inserts and
purchasing the rings and inserts will
cost 50-60 percent of a rebore and new
pistons and rings. In this case, durability
is directly related to cost. You can ex-
pect approximately half the life from an
engine with inserted pistons as compared
to one with the complete rebore job.
CONNECTING RODS
Inspecting connecting rods involves
checking three areas: out-of-round or
enlarged bearing bores, twisted or bent
rods and cracked rod bolts. Now's when
the old bearing inserts come in handy. If
a rod bearing shows uneven wear from
side-to-side-opposite sides on top and
bottom bearing halves-the piston on that
rod has wear spots offset from its thrust
face and the rod's crankshaft bearing
journal was not tapered, the rod is
How much a bearine insert projects above its
bearingbore parting line is called crush heigh t
(about 0.001 in.). As a bearing cap is tightened
down, the insert-half ends contact first, forcing
the insert to conform to the shape of its bore
and to be locked into place. This is called
bearing crush.
bent, causing side loading. With these
symptoms, the rod and piston assembly
or assemblies should be taken to an
engine machine shop for accurate check-
ing and straightening if necessary. Bearing
condition also tells you if the "big end"
of the rod needs reconditioning. "When a
rod is reconditioned the bearing bore is
checked with a special dial indicator to
detennine its shape-round, out-of-round
or oversize. This is basically the same
thing you did with the crankshaft bearing
journals, however now the check is made
of the bore in which the bearings are
retained. With an out-of-round bore, its
bearing inserts will assume the same
irregulari ty, causing uneven load distribu-
tion between the bearing and its journal,
resulting in uneven and accelerated
bearing wear. Consequently, the bore
must be reconditioned.
A bearing with a too-large bore is
even worse. Oversized bearing bores
will let bearings move in the bore-
which is not supposed to happen. The
reason is the insert halves are not suffi-
ciently crushed. Crush occurs when a
bearing is forced into its bore. This is
accomplished by the circumference of the
outside diameter-half of a diameter for
each insert half- of the insert being
more than that of the bearing bore.
When a bearing is placed in its bore
its ends project slightly above the bearing
housing's parting surfaces. Consequently,
when two bearing inserts are installed in
their bore, the ends of the inserts butt. As
the bearing cap is tightened, the two cir-
cumferences must become equal. The
bearing shell gives-is crushed - causing
the bearing to assume the shape of its
bore and to be preloaded, or fitted very
tightly in its bore. This tight fit and the
tooth, or machining marks in the bearing
bore, combine to prevent the bear-
ing inserts from spinning in their bores.
The reverse happens when the force at
the bearing journal which tries to rotate
the bearing overcomes the force between
the bearing and its housing, or bore
that is resisting this force. If bearing bore
is too large the bearing may move in the
bore, or worse yet, spin.
To detennine if a bearing has been
moving in its bore, look at its backside.
Shiny spots on the back of the shell
indicate movement. If this happened,
either the bearing bore is too large or the
bearing-to-journal clearance was insuffi-
cient. If you discover any shiny spots the
rod/s need to be checked with a dial-indi-
cator that's part of an engine builder's
connecting-rod reconditioning hone. Re-
condition the rod/s as necessary.
When a connecting rod is recondi-
tioned, some material is precision ground
from the bearing cap mating surfaces.
Next the cap is reinstalled on the rod,
bolts are torqued to spec and the bore is
honed to the correct diameter. Honing
corrects the bearing-bore diameter and
concentricity and also restores the tooth,
or surface of the bore which grabs the in-
serts to prevent them from spinning.
69
i s -
----
I
I f your pistons have t o be replaced this is the Connecting-rod bearing bore being checked and honed, or reconditioned. I f the bearing bore isn't
first thing you'll have t o do-disassemble them. nearly perfectly round, some material is precision ground from the bearing cap parting line. The cap
A press is required. is then reassembled to the rod and the nuts torqued t o spec. The bearing bore is then honed to its
correct diameter.
Rod Bolts-Make sure you inspect the rod
bolts very closely before attempting
any other reconditioning of the rods.
Don't hesitate t o use a magnifying glass
as you give them the old "eagle-eye." Re-
place any cracked bolts-a cracked rod
bolt will eventually break and may
totally destroy an engine.
You have t o remove the bolts to check
them. To remove a rod bolt, clamp the
big end in a vise between two blocks of
wood and drive the bolt straight out.
The new bolt can be installed by tighten-
ing it after it is loosely installed in the rod
with the cap. If you replace one or both
rod bolts, the connecting rod must be re-
conditioned or honed because the bolts
locate the cap in relation to the rod. Con-
sequently, changing a bolt may move the
cap position very slightly, throwing the
bearing bore out-of-round.
One last note concerning connecting
rods. Rod-bearing bores are originally
machined with their caps torqued in place,
so they must be checked the same way.
When you deliver them to a machine shop
for checking and reconditioning after
you've inspected the rod bolts, make sure
the correct cap is installed in each rod.
Torque the nuts t o specification before
making the delivery. Torque the 511 6-in.
rod-bolt nuts of the 221, 260, 289 and
302 engines to 19-24 ft. lbs. Torque the
larger 318-in. rod bolts and nuts of the
HP289, Boss 302 and 351W engines t o
40- 45 ft. lbs.
DISASSEMBLING AND ASSEMBLING
Disassembling or assembling connecting
rods and pistons is a job for an expert with
special equipment. If you are replacing
your pistons, the rods and pistons must
obviously part company. Only one method
can be used to do this correctly. The con-
necting-rod wrist pin must be pressed, not
driven, out of the small end of the rod in
which it is retained by a 0.00 1-0.001 5-in.
interference fit between t he pin and the
rod. A press with mandrels to back up the
piston and bear on the pin is required.
Assembling a connecting rod and pis-
ton can be accomplished by one of two
methods. The first is done by reversing
the disassembly process, however it must
be done with considerably more care. The
other method, and the one I prefer, is the
heating method. This is done by simply
heating the small end of the connecting
rod with a torch so it expands, allowing
the pin t o slide into place without need
for a press. The rod should not be heated
excessively because this could damage the
rod. Pin and piston have t o be fitted very
quickly before the rod and pin approach
the same temperature. Otherwise the pin
is trapped by the interference fit before
it's in position, requiring a press to com-
plete the installation.
If you are assembling your own pistons
and rods, be aware of the piston's location
relative to its connecting rod. As installed
in the engine, all pistons have a notch at
the front edge of their domes or an arrow
stamped in the dome, both of which must
be pointing to the front of the engine as
installed. Also, the connecting-rod numz
bers must point toward their cylinder
bank. Rods installed in the right bank
must point to the right and those in the
left bank must point t o the left. So, put-
ting them together, you'll have piston and
rod numbers 1, 2, 3 and 4 with their
notches or arrows pointing forward and
the rod numbers to the right. Piston and
rod numbers 5, 6, 7 and 8 have their
piston notches or arrows pointing for-
ward, and their rod numbers to the left.
TIMING CHAIN AND SPROCKETS
I previously discussed timing chain
wear and how to determine if a chain and
If your pistons have to be replaced this is the
first thing you'll have to do-disassemble them.
A press is requ ired.
Rod Bolts- Make sure you inspect the rod
bolts very closely before attempting
any other reconditioning of the rods .
Don't hesitate to use a magnifying glass
as you give them the old "eagle-eye." Re-
place any cracked bolts-a cracked rod
bolt will eventually break and may
totally destroy an engine.
You have to remove the bol ts to check
them. To remove a rod bolt, clamp the
big end in a vise between two blocks of
wood and drive the bolt straight out.
The new bolt can be installed by tighten-
ing it after it is loosely installed in the rod
with the cap. If you replace one or both
rod bolts, the connecting rod must be re-
conditioned or honed because the bolts
locate the cap in relation to the rod. Con-
sequently, changing a bolt may move the
cap position very slightly, throwing the
bearing bore out-of-round.
One last note concerning connecting
rods. Rod-bearing bores are originally
machined with their caps torqued in place,
so they must be checked the same way.
When you deliver them to a machine shop
for checking and reconditioning after
you've inspected the rod bolts, make sure
the correct cap is installed in each rod.
Torque the nuts to specification before
making the delivery. Torque the 5/16-in.
70
Connectingrod bearing bore being checked and honed, or reconditioned . If the bearing bore isn't
nearly perfectly round, some material is precision ground from the bearing cap parting line. The cap
is then reassembled to the rod and the nuts torqued to spec. The bearing bore is then honed to its
correct diameter.
rod-bolt nuts of the 221, 260, 289 and
302 engines to 19- 24 ft. lbs. Torque the
larger 3/8-in. rod bolts and nuts of the
HP289 , Boss 302 and 351 W engines to
40-45 ft. Ibs.
DISASSEMBLING AND ASSEMBLING
Disassembling or assem bling connecting
rods and pistons is a job for an expert with
special equipment. If you are replacing
your pistons, the rods and pistons must
obviously part company. Only one method
can be used to do this correctly. The con-
necting-rod wrist pin must be pressed, not
driven, out of the small end of the rod in
which it is retained by a 0.00 1-0.00 IS-in.
interference fit between the pin and the
rod. A press with mandrels to back up the
piston and bear on the pin is required.
Assembling a connecting rod and pis-
ton can be accomplished by one of two
methods. The first is done by reversing
the disassembly process , however it must
be done with considerably more care. The
other method, and the one I prefer, is the
heating method. This is done by simply
heating the small end of the connecting
rod with a torch so it expands, allowing
the pin to slide into place without need
for a press. The rod should not be heated
excessively because this could damage the
rod . Pin and piston have to be fitted very
quickly before the rod and pin approach
the same temperature. Otherwise the pin
is trapped by the interference fit before
it's in position, requiring a press to com-
plete the installation.
If you are assembling your own pistons
and rods , be aware of the piston's location
relative to its connecting rod. As installed
in the engine, all pistons have a notch at
the front edge of their domes or an arrow
stamped in the dome, both of which must
be pointing to the front of the engine as
installed. Al so, the connecting-rod num'
bel'S must point toward their cy linder
bank. Rods installed in the right bank
mllst point to the right and those in the
left bank must point to the left. So, put-
ting them together, you'll have piston and
rod numbers 1, 2, 3 and 4 with their
notches or arrows pointing forward and
the rod numbers to the right. Piston and
rod numbers 5, 6, 7 and 8 have their
piston notches or arrows pointing for-
ward, and their rod numbers to the left.
I previously discussed timing chain
wear and how to determine if a chain and
Notch, which could also be an arrow, indicates
the position of a piston in its bore. Notch or
arrow should point t o the engine front. When
assembling connecting rods and pistons, rod
numbers 1, 2, 3 and 4 must be to the right of
the piston (opposite the dot) and numbers 5.6.
7 and 8 to the left (same side as the dot).
its sprockets need replacing. However
here's some more information about what
replacement parts you should consider.
As I said, if your engine is one of the
hotter-operating 1973 and later engines-
and you live in a hot climate, you should
change t o t he cast-iron type cam sprocket
if your engine was originally equipped
with the nylon type. This avoids t he prob-
lem of cracked and broken sprocket t eet h,
but don' t expect better sprocket or chain
wear. There's negligible difference.
Two original-equipment chains have
been used. The original C20Z-6268-A
must be used with 112-in.-wide sprockets.
The one originally intended for the HP289
and carried over for use with the nylon
cam sprocket, C30Z-6268-A, is for use
with 13132-in.-wide sprockets. Therefore,
if you plan on changing component s from
what your engine was originally equipped
with, use the nearby chart t o determine
which parts are compatible. One popular
change is t o replace the nylon cam
sprocket with t he cast-iron one-but which
one? If you use t he earlier standard
C30Z-6256-C sprocket, you11 have t o
change the crankshaft sprocket and
chain because they are wider t han t he
nylon-sprocket-matched chain and crank-
shaft sprocket. Because the HP289 cam
sprocket is compatible with the narrow
chain, you can install it by replacing worn-
out parts and the thrust plate. It must be
changed because it' s thicker t han those
used on all ot her small blocks. For ex-
Piston and rod assembling being done by en-
larging the wrist-pin bores by heating with a
propane torch. The pin slips right into place,
but you've got to be fast. Rod and wrist-pin
temperatures converge very quickly, causing the
two t o lock together within a couple of seconds.
I f the pin is not located properly when this
happens it'll have to be pressed into place.
ample, HP289 thrust plate-C30Z-6269-A
is 0.375-inch thick; others vary between
0. 22- and 0.25-inch thick. Because the
back of t he cam-timing gear bears against
the front of t he thrust plate and t he front-
cam-bearing journal bears against t he
back of t he thrust plate, the thrust plate
controls camshaft end-play. Consequently,
if the thrust plate is t oo thick, there will
be no end-play and the cam will be locked
up. On t he ot her hand, if it is t oo t h n ,
excessive cam end-play could cause serious
cam and lifter damage. So, if you install
any parts other t han those originally in
your engine, make sure they are all
compatible.
Replacement-part manufacturers have
simplified the job of installing either type
of cam sprocket you prefer. TRW offers
bot h nylon and cast-iron cam timing gears
for all small blocks except 221 and 260,
for which only cast-iron gears are offered.
This makes i t convenient because the gear
specified for a specific engine can be in-
stalled on t hat engine without any ot her
hardware changes. In other words, chains
and gears are manufactured t o accommo-
date t he hardware originally found on the
engines for which t hey are specified.
Heavy-Duty or Performance Applica-
tions-In addition t o the OEM and OEM-
replacement sprocket and chain sets, high-
performance and heavy-duty sprockets
and chains are available. Consider these
if your engine is going t o be used for ex-
tremely hard service. They stretch less
Pistons and rods assembled and ready for in-
stallation and positioned as they would be as
installed in their engine. Looking from the front
of the engine, notches or arrows should be
pointing at you with the rod numbers on the
side of their respective row of pistons.
and are relatively unaffected by high
engine-operating temperatures. The chain
I am referring t o is double-roller type
with matching sprockets, similar in design
t o bicycle chains except with t wo rows of
rollers. These are available from Cloyes
Gear and Products, Inc., 4520 Beidler
Road, Willoughby, Ohio 44094 and TRW,
8001 E. Pleasant Valley Road, Cleveland,
Ohio 4413 1.
Camshaft End-Play-I could wait until
the engine-buildup chapter t o talk about
camshaft end-play, but it' s a good idea t o
find out if you need a part now instead
of waiting for a long holiday or late Sat-
urday night when everything is closed
and you are in the middle of assembling
your engine.
A camshaft doesn' t have t o be installed
i n an engine t o check its end-play. Just
install the sprocket on the cam with the
thrust plate in its normal position-be
tween the sprocket and the front bearing
journal. These should be the parts you
intend t o use in your engine: cam,
sprocket and thrust plate. Sprocket and
cam thrust faces wear. You won' t get a
true reading when checking end-play if
you check with old parts and then install
new ones. Now, use your feeler gauges t o
check t he clearance between the thrust
plate and the front cam-bearing-journal
thrust face. The maximum-thickness feeler
gauge represents camshaft end-play. End-
play should be 0.001-0.007 in. If it
exceeds 0.007-in. replace the thrust plate.
Notch, which could also be an arrow, indicates
the position of a piston in its bore. Notch or
arrow should point to the engine front. When
assembling connecting rods and pistons, rod
numbers 1, 2, 3 and 4 must be to the right of
the piston (opposite the dot) and numbers 5, 6,
7 and 8 to the left (same side as the dot).
its sprockets need replacing. However
here's some more information about what
replacemen t parts you should consider.
As I said, if your engine is one of the
hotter-operating 1973 and later engines-
and you live in a hot climate, you should
change to the cast-iron type cam sprocket
if your engine was originally equipped
with the nylon type. This avoids the prob-
lem of cracked and broken sprocket teeth,
but don't expect better sprocket or chain
wear. There's negligible difference.
Two original-equipment chains have
been used. The original C20Z-6268-A
must be used with 1/2-in.-wide sprockets.
The one originally intended for the HP289
and carried over for use with the nylon
cam sprocket, C30Z-6268-A, is for use
with 13/32-in.-wide sprockets. Therefore,
if you plan on changing components from
what your engine was originally equipped
with, use the nearby chart to determine
which parts are compatible. One popular
change is to replace the nylon cam
sprocket with the cast-iron one-but which
one? If you use the earlier standard
C30Z-6256-C sprocket, you11 have to
change the crankshaft sprocket and
chain because they are wider than the
nylon-sprocket-matched chain and crank-
shaft sprocket. Because the HP289 cam
sprocket is compatible with the narrow
chain, you can install it by replacing worn-
out parts and the thrust plate. It must be
changed because it's thicker than those
used on all other small blocks. For ex-
Piston and rod assembling being done by en-
larging the wrist-pin bores by heating with a
propane torch. The pin slips right into place,
but you've got to be fast. Rod and wrist-pin
temperatures converge very quickly, causing the
two to lock together within a couple of seconds.
If the pin is not located properly when this
happens it'll have to be pressed into place.
ample, HP289 thrustplate-C30Z-6269-A
is 0.375-inch thick; others vary between
0.22- and 0.25-inch thick. Because the
back of the cam-timing gear bears against
the front of the thrust plate and the front-
cam-bearing journal bears against the
back of the thrust plate, the thrust plate
controls camshaft end-play. Consequently,
if the thrust plate is too thick, there will
be no end-play and the cam will be locked
up. On the other hand, if it is too thin,
excessive cam end-play could cause serious
cam and lifter damage. So, if you install
any parts other than those originally in
your engine, make sure they are all
compatible.
Replacement-part manufacturers have
simplified the job of installing either type
of cam sprocket you prefer. TRW offers
both nylon and cast-iron cam timing gears
for all small blocks except 221 and 260,
for which only cast-iron gears are offered.
This makes it convenient because the gear
specified for a specific engine can be in-
stalled on that engine without any other
hardware changes. In other words, chains
and gears are manufactured to accommo-
date the hardware originally found on the
engines for which they are specified.
Heavy-Duty or Performance Applica-
tions-In addition to the OEM and OEM-
replacement sprocket and chain sets, high-
performance and heavy-duty sprockets
and chains are available. Consider these
if your engine is going to be used for ex-
tremely hard service. They stretch less
Pistons and rods assembled and ready for in-
stallation and positioned as they would be as
installed in their engine. Looking from the front
of the engine, notches or arrows should be
pointing at you with the rod numbers on the
side of their respective row of pistons.
and are relatively unaffected by high
engine-operating temperatures. The chain
I am referring to is double-roller type
with matching sprockets, similar in design
to bicycle chains except with two rows of
rollers. These are available from Cloyes
Gear and Products, Inc., 4520 Beidler
Road, Willoughby, Ohio 44094 and TRW,
8001 E. Pleasant Valley Road, Cleveland,
Ohio 44131.
Camshaft End-Play-I could wait until
the engine-buildup chapter to talk about
camshaft end-play, but it's a good idea to
find out if you need a part now instead
of waiting for a long holiday or late Sat-
urday night when everything is closed
and you are in the middle of assembling
your engine.
A camshaft doesn't have to be installed
in an engine to check its end-play. Just
install the sprocket on the cam with the
thrust plate in its normal position-be-
tween the sprocket and the front bearing
journal. These should be the parts you
in tend to use in your engine: cam,
sprocket and thrust plate. Sprocket and
cam thrust faces wear. You won't get a
true reading when checking end-play if
you check with old parts and then install
new ones. Now, use your feeler gauges to
check the clearance between the thrust
plate and the front cam-bearing-journal
thrust face. The maximum-thickness feeler
gauge represents camshaft end-play. End-
play should be 0.001-0.007 in. If it
exceeds 0.007-in. replace the thrust plate.
71
Early 112-in.- and later 13132-in.-wide timing
chains. They must be used with the correct
width sprockets.
Nylonlaluminum camshaft sprocket has built-in
spacer (arrow) as do aftermarket cast-iron
sprockets. OEM cast-iron sprockets, the ones
purchased from a Ford dealer, requirea separate
C-shaped spacer.
Section through camshaft drive assembly. Rela-
tionship between thrust plate and sprocket
spacer must be correct or the cam will be locked
up-or excessive end play results. Note how the
fuel-pump cam retains the sprocket t o the cam-
shaft. Drawing courtesy Ford.
TIMING CHAIN & SPROCKET APPLICATIONS
ENGINE 221 -260-289 221 -260-289 260289-302-351W 302-351 W HP289 HP289 BOSS 302
YEAR 1962 tog-2-63' 9-283to 1965* 1965 to 5-2-72 5-2-72 to Present 1963 to 1965* 1965 t o 1967 1969 to 1970
CAMSHAFT
SPROCKET
Cast Iron C3OZ-6256-C C3OZ-6256-C C30Z-6256-A
Nylon C50Z-6256-B D3AZ-6256-8 C5OZ-6256-B C502-6256-8
CHAIN C20Z-6268-A C2OZ-6268-A C30Z-6268-A C30Z-6268-A C30Z-6268-A C30Z-6268-A C30Z-6268-A
C20Z-6306-A
SPROCKET
C20Z-6306-A D50Z-6306-A D50Z-6306-A C30Z-6306-A C30Z-6306-A D50Z-6306-A
THRUST PLATE C20Z-6269-A C30Z-6269-8 C90Z-6269-A C90Z-6269-A C30Z-6269-A C90Z-6269-A C90Z-6269-A
~~~~~~ : : $: , ; 114-20 x 518 spl. head. 114-20 x 518 114-20 x 518 1/4-20 x 518 1/4-20 x 518 114-20 x 518 114-20 x 518
SPACER C20Z-6265-A C20Z-6265-A NOT REO'D. NOT REQ'D. C30Z-6265-A NOT REQ'D. NOT REQ'D.
'Before Change L-7
After Change L-7
Chain no. C20Z-6268-A is for use with 112-inch-wide sprockets and chain no. C30Z-6268-A is used with 13132-inch-wide sprockets.
Use this chart t o match up camshaft-drive components. Numbers shown are current service-part replacement numbers.
Early 1I2-in_- and later 13/32-in.-wide timing
chains. They must be used with the correct
width sprockets.
Nylon/aluminum camshaft sprocket has built-in
spacer (arrow) as do aftermarket cast-iron
sprockets. OEM cast-iron sprockets, the ones
purchased from a Ford dealer, require a separate
C-shaped spacer.
Section through camshaft drive assembly. Rela-
tionship between thrust plate and sprocket
spacer must be correct or the cam will be locked
up-or excessive end play results. Note how the
fuel -pump cam retains the sprocket to the cam-
shaft. Drawing courtesy Ford.
TIMING CHAIN & SPROCKET APPLICATIONS
ENGINE 221-260-289 221-260-289 260-289-302351W 302-351W HP289 HP289 Boss 302
YEAR 1962 to 9-2-63* 9-2-63 to 1965* 1965 to 5-2-72. 5-2-72 to Present 1963 to 1965* 1965 to 1967. 1969 to 1970
CAMSHAFT
SPROCKET
Cast Iron C30Z-6256-C C30Z-6256-C C30Z-6256-A
Nylon C50Z-6256-B D3AZ-6256-B C50Z-6256-B C50Z-6256-B
CHAIN C20Z-6268-A C20Z-6268-A C30Z-6268-A C30Z-6268-A C30Z-6268-A C30Z-6268-A C30Z-6268-A
CRANKSHAFT
C20Z-6306-A C20Z-6306-A D50Z-6306-A D50Z-6306-A C30Z-6306-A C30Z-6306-A D50Z-6306-A
SPROCi(ET
THRUST PLATE C20Z-6269-A C30Z-6269-B C90Z-6269-A C90Z-6269-A C30Z-6269-A C90Z-6269-A C90Z-6269-A
THRUST PLATE
1/4-20 x 5/8 spl. head. 1/4-20 x 5/8 1/ 4-20 x 5/8 1/4-20 x 5/8 1/4-20 x 5/8 1/4-20 x 5/8 1/4-20 x 5/8
BOL T (2 Req'd.)
SPACER C20Z-6265-A C20Z-6265-A NOT REO' D. NOT REOD. C30Z-6265-A NOT REO' D. NOT REO' D.
'Before Change L-7
After Change L-7
Chain no. C20Z-6268-A is for use with 1/2-inch-wi de sprockets and chain no. C30Z-6268-A is used with 13/32-inch-wide sprockets .
Use this chart to match up camshaft-drive components. Numbers shown are current service-part replacement numbers.
72
from the pump body. Be careful the
rotors don't fall out. Use your feeler
gauges t o determine the maximum clear-
ance between the oil-pump housing and
the outer rotor. It should not exceed
0.013 inch. Check the rotor end-play by
laying the cover plate over half the housing
and measuring clearance between the plate
and both the inner rotor and the outer
rotor with your feeler gauges. Maximum
clearance is 0.004 inch. Next remove the
rotors. When turning the pump over, be
ready t o catch the rotors as they fall out.
Be careful not t o bang them around. Also,
keep them oiled t o prevent rusting. Look
at both rotors and the interior of the
pump housing for signs of scoring, pitting
or deep grooving, particularly between
the inlet and outlet ports in the housing.
A sure sign that the pump ingested foreign
particles is you'll find some imbedded in
the tips of the inner rotor-another con-
dition requiring replacement. If the rotors
I f your engine is going t o be subjected to severe service, consider using a timing chain and sprocket
are damaged they can be replaced for
setup like this. It's Cloyes True ~ol l e r @ which uses a rollerchain design rather than the conventional
a third the of a new pump-
silent chain. Note the two extra keyway slots in the crankshaft sprocket for advancing or retarding Rotors have t o be replaced in pairs and
camshaft timing. Ford offers rotor kits for the 221-302
and the 351W. Kit numbers are B8A-
6608-A and C8SZ-6608-A, respectively.
Just make sure if you decide t o do this
that the surfaces in the pump body aren't
damaged, otherwise little will be gained
by installing new rotors.
Pressure-Relief Valve-The major concern
with your oil-pressure relief valve is that
the valve and spring operates freely. To
check for this, insert a small screwdriver
OIL PUMP AND DRIVE SHAFT is chewed up-such as a cam lobe and into the pressureport and move the relief
Lubrication is a major key to an en- lifter-or the oil filter clogs up and oil valve. If it moves freely, then it's OK.
gine's durability, and the oil pump is the bypasses the fiter, resulting in large dirt Assemble the Pump-Make sure the parts
heart of the lubrication system so don't particles circulating through the engine are clean. Install the rotors, then coat
take any short cuts here. Check your oil and the oil pump. This can cause severe them liberally with oil. Make sure the
pump for any internal damage such as scoring and grooving of the oil pump outer rotor is installed correctly. If an
grooving or scoring of the rotors or the rotors and body as well as bearingjournals indent mark is not showing similar to the
housing, and check clearances before on the crankshaft and cam. one on the end of the inner rotor, turn
reusing it. While it's one of the most dur- If your engine exhibits either condi- the outer rotor over t o expose the mark.
able components in your engine, it can tion, you may have already found oil- Install the cover plate and torque the bolts
wear past the point of being reusable. The pump damage. Clues will have been 6-9 ft. 11, s .
hex-shaft that drives it should be replaced. given by the components you've already Before leaving the oil-pump subject
Don't even consider reusing your old inspected and reconditioned, or replaced. 1'11 tell a little story t o give you ammuni-
shaft in your new engine. The hex edges Take this into account during your oil- tion for when you are trying to convince
wear and will more than likely fail later. pump inspection. For example, an engine anyone of the dangers of driving a vehicle
Remember, the distributor continues t o which had heavily scuffed pistons and or operating any engine with little or no
turn, allowing the engine t o run, but a scored cylinder walls, wiped out camshaft
oil pressure. Any time an oil-pressure light
failed shaft means the engine is not being lobes and lifters or deeply grooved crank-
comes on or a gauge reads low pressure,
lubricated. It doesn't take much imagina- shaft bearing journals will have had large an engine should be shut off immediately,
tion to visualize the resulting damage. amounts of metal and dirt particles circu- not after you make it t o the next gas
The oil-pump drive shaft for the lated through the oil pump. station, another block, mile or whatever,
302 engines has a 114-in. hex 7.44-in. Oil-Pump Inspection-Test your oil pump
but right now. A fellow I know had the
long. The 351W shaft hex is 5116-in. 8- by immersing the pickup in a pan of clean
engine in his pickup seize due to oil-
3116-in. long. Part numbers are D8AZ- solvent, then turning the rotors with your
pressure loss when the pump drive shaft
6A618-A for the 221-302 and C90Z- fingers using the hex shaft. After two or
failed. When I questioned him about
6A618-A for the 35 1W. three complete turns solvent should gush
whether or not he saw the idiot light
Oil-Pump Damage-Before I get much fur- out of the pump's pressure port-the hole
he said, " Yes, but it wasn't bright red-
ther into the oil-pump subject, let's talk in the center of the pump-mounting just pink!" Using this reasoning, he tried
about durability. An oil pump is so over- flange. If the pump performs with solvent to drive the last I 0 'miles home but only
lubricated that it's not going to wear its internal clearances are not excessive, made it five miles before the engine
much. Damage occurs when metal or dirt plus it shows the rotors turn freely. seized. The repair job came to approxi-
particles pass through the pump. This Next inspect the pump internally. Re- mately $500, or $100 per mile for the
happens when some other component move the four 114-in. bolts and the cover last five miles after he saw the light.
If your engine is going to be subjected to severe service, consider using a timing chain and sprocket
setup like this. It's Cloyes True Roller which uses a roller-chain design rather than the conventional
silent chain. Note the two extra keyway slots in the crankshaft sprocket for advancing or retarding
camshaft timing.
OIL PUMP AND DRIVE SHAFT
Lubrication is a major key to an en-
gine's durability, and the oil pump is the
heart of the lubrication system so don' t
take any short cuts here. Check your oil
pump for any internal damage such as
grooving or scoring of the rotors or the
housing, and check clearances before
reusing it. While it's one of the most dur-
able components in your engine, it can
wear past the point of being reusable. The
hexshaft that drives it should be replaced.
Don 't even consider reusing your old
shaft in your new engine. The hex edges
wear and will more than likely fail later.
Remember , the distributor continues to
turn, allowing the engine to run, but a
failed shaft means the engine is not being
lubricated. It doesn't take much imagina-
tion to visualize the resulting damage.
The oil-pump drive shaft for the
302 engines has a 1 /4in. hex 7 .44-in.
long. The 351W shaft hex is 5/16-in. 8-
3/16-in. long. Part numbers are D8AZ-
6A618-A for the 221-302 and C90Z-
6A618-A for the 351W.
Oil-Pump Damage-Before I get much fu r-
ther into the oil-pump subject, let's talk
about durability. An oil pump is so over-
lubricated that it 's not going to wear
much. Damage occurs when metal or dirt
particles pass through the pump. This
happens when some other component
is chewed up-such as a cam lobe and
lifter-or the oil filter clogs up and oil
bypasses the m ter, resulting in large dirt
particles Circulating through the engine
and the oil pump. This can cause severe
scoring and grooving of the oil pump
rotors and body as well as bearing journals
on the crankshaft and cam.
If your engine exhibits either condi-
tion, you may have already found oil-
pump damage . Clues will have been
given by the components you 've already
inspected and reconditioned , or replaced.
Take this into account during your oil-
pump inspection. For example, an engine
which had heavily scuffed pistons and
scored cylinder walls, wiped out camshaft
lobes and lifters or deeply grooved crank-
shaft bearing journals will have had large
amounts of metal and dirt particles circu-
lated through the oil pump.
Oil-Pump Inspection-Test your oil pump
by immersing the pickup in a pan of clean
solvent, then turning the rotors with your
fingers using the hex shaft. After two or
three complete turns solvent should gush
out of the pump's pressure port-the hole
in the center of the pump-mounting
flange . If the pump performs with solvent
its internal clearances are not excessive,
plus it shows the rotors turn freely.
Next inspect the pump internally. Re-
move the four 1/4-in. bolts and the cover
from the pump body. Be careful the
rotors don' t fallout. Use your feeler
gauges to determine the maximum clear-
ance between the oil-pump housing and
the outer rotor. It should not exceed
0.013 inch. Check the rotor end-play by
laying the cover plate over half the housing
and measuring clearance between the plate
and both the inner rotor and the outer
rotor with your feeler gauges. Maximum
clearance is 0.004 inch. Next remove the
rotors. When turning the pump over , be
ready to catch the rotors as they fallout.
Be careful not to bang them around. Also,
keep them oiled to prevent rusting. Look
at both rotors and the interior of the
pump housing for signs of scoring, pitting
or deep grooving, particularly between
the inlet and outlet ports in the housing.
A sure sign that the pump ingested foreign
particles is you'll find some imbedded in
the tips of the inner rotor-another con-
diti on requiring replacement. If the rotors
are damaged they can be replaced for
about a third of the cost of a new pump.
Rotors have to be replaced in pairs and
Ford offers rotor kits for the 221-302
and the 351 W. Kit numbers are B8A-
6608-A and C8SZ-6608-A, respectively.
Just make sure if you decide to do this
that the surfaces in the pump body aren't
damaged, otherwise little will be gained
by installing new rotors.
Pressure-Relief Valve-The major concern
with your oil-pressure relief valve is that
the valve and spring operates freely. To
check for this, insert a small screwdriver
into the pressure port and move the relief
valve. Ifit moves freely, then it's OK.
Assemble the Pump-Make sure the parts
are clean. Install the rotors, then coat
them liberally with oil. Make sure the
au ter rotor is installed correctly. If an
indent mark is not showing similar to the
one on the end of the inner rotor, turn
the outer rotor over to expose the mark.
Install the cover plate and torque the bolts
6-9 f1. Ibs.
Before leaving the oil-pump subject
I'll tell a little story to give you ammuni-
tion for when you are trying to convince
anyone of the dangers of driving a vehicle
or operating any engine with little or no
oil pressure. Any time an oil-pressure light
comes on or a gauge reads low pressure,
an engine should be shut off immediately,
not after you make it to the next gas
station, another block, mile or whatever,
but right now. A fellow I know had the
engine in his pickup seize due to oil-
pressure loss when the pump drive shaft
failed. When I questioned him about
whether or not he saw the idiot light
he said , " Yes, but it wasn' t bright red-
just pink!" Using this reasoning, he tried
to drive the last 1 o miles home but only
made it five miles before the engine
seized. The repair job came to approxi-
mately $500, or $100 per mile for the
last five miles after he saw the light.
73
IIW-.I.Y.~ ,.,... YII .-.wing between the inner and outer rotors and the pump housing. Also check clearances. I, ~ H W Y aww W- GW~DI WW
your pump won't be able t o produce sufficient pressure, consequently it should be replaced.
I
INNER-ROTOR-TIP-TO-OUTER ROTOR
0.015" MAX. DESIRABLE 0.006" 1
GRIP THIS RI
VISE FOR DISASSEMBLY
& INSPECTION \ \ 'b,'~*
rotor end-play.
Here are the clearances you should be checking
for. Use your feeler gauges and the cover plate
as shown i n the nearby photograph t o check
.-
. . , w- r ' . , a .. . ..
. . -
-
. .
This illustrates why you should always keep New and used oil-pump drive shafts. Don't try
your eyes open. Crack (arrow) didn't appear t o save money by using your old one.
until I installed the p~ckup after the pump
was cleaned, inspected and reassembled. Tight-
ening the bolt opened up the crack. I f I hadn't
seen it, the mounting flange could have broken,
letting the pump suck air rather than oil. Air
doesn't lubricate an engine very well.
Disassemble your oil pump and check for scoring between the inner and outer rotors and the pump housing. Also check clearances. If they are excessive
your pump won't be able to produce sufficient pressure, consequently it should be replaced.
INNER-ROTOR-TIP-TO-OUTER ROTOR
0.015" MAX. DESIRABLE 0.006"
Here are the clearances you should be checking
for . Use your feeler gauges and the cover plate
as shown in the nearby photograph to check
rotor end-play .
74
This illustrates why you should always keep
your eyes open. Crack (arrow) didn't appear
until I installed the pickup after the pump
was cleaned, inspected and reassembled. Tight-
ening the bolt opened up the crack. If I hadn' t
seen it, the mounting flange could have broken,
letting the pump suck air rather than oil. Air
doesn't lubricate an engine very well.
New and used oil-pump drive shafts. Don't try
to save money by using your old one.
Head Reconditioning
and Assembly 6
I reserved cylinder-head disassembly
and inspection till now t o go with recon-
ditioning because cylinder-head work
must be done in an orderly manner. Once
you start tearing your heads down, you
should continue with them until the job
is finished. This will greatly reduce the
possibility of losing or mixing up pieces.
Head reconditioning is a precise, tedious
and dirty job which requires special tools
or equipment. The best policy is to limit
your head work to removing and installing
them. You may do more harm than good
if you attempt to do more. Leave the
precision work to the specialist. It'll cost
you no more for the specialist to remove
the valves. However, if you have access
to some or all of the equipment, it's not
going t o cost you any more to disassemble
the heads. By doing this youl l be able t o
inspect the parts so you'll know what
must be done to put your heads back in
shape.
Rail-Rocker- to-Spring-Retainer Clear-
ance-If your engine is equipped with the
rail-type rocker arms, which were standard
for all small-blocks from late 66 to 1977,
check the clearance between the rails on
each rocker arm and its spring retainer.
This dimension should not be less than
0.0625 in. (1 11 6 in.)-original clearance is
0.085 in. A not-too-common occurrence
is for the valve-stem tip. and rocker arm to
wear to the point that this clearance is
completely gone. As a result the rocker-
arm rails begin to bear on the spring re-
tainer, eventually causing the retainers to
come loose. I mentioned this earlier in
the teardown chapter, but because of its
importance I'm repeating it. A dropped
valve can literally destroy an engine, so be
careful when checking rocker-arm-to-
spring-retainer relationships.
Locate each rocker arm in its normal
1969 Boss 302 Mustang engine with its unique cylinder heads. The
major objective behind this engine was t o provide a practical
production engine that would be the basis for the strongest and
most powerful 5-liter ( 302 CI D) engine for competition in the
SCCA Trans Am racing series-it was and they won.Photo courtesy
Ford.
position on its valve-stem tip and measure
the clearance between the rails and the
spring retainer. A six-inch scale is handy
for doing this, or use a 0.0625 in. thick-
ness of steel or aluminum sheet as a feeler
gauge. Discard any valve and rocker-arm
combination under the 1 116-in. limit. The
reason for replacing the rocker arm too is
that excessive contact wear on one com-
ponent means the other component is
also too far gone-it will have also worn
in an erratic pattern. So, if the old rocker
arm were to be used with a new valve,
there would be excessive valve-tip loading
causing accelerated valve-tip and rocker-
arm wear.
TEARDOWN AND CLEANUP '
Keep the Rocker Arms and Their Ful-
crums Together-When removing the
rocker arms, their fulcrums and adjusting
nuts remember t o keep each fulcrum with
its rocker arm. String them on a piece of
wire, less the ones you've found to be ex-
cessively worn. Just like camshaft lobes
and lifters, rocker arms and their fulcrums
wear in together. Consequently, mixing
them up will result in galling.
Check Rocker-Arm Adjusting-Nut Tor-
que-Two methods have been used for
small-block Ford valve adjustment. Pre
68-1 12 valves were adjusted by moving
the rocker-arm nut vertically on the
rocker-arm-stud thread. After 68-112 the
thread on the stud was reduced in size from
3/8-24 (318-inch diameter and 24 threads-
per-inch) t o 5/16-24, but the end pressed
into the cylinder head was maintained at
318-in. This was designated as Change
L4. Because the thread diameter was re-
duced but the unthreaded end diameter
maintained, a shoulder was created at the
bottom of the threads. Consequently, the
rocker-arm fulcrum is clamped between
this shoulder and the attaching nut-it's
not adjustable anymore, it is a positive-
stop setup. Valves are adjusted in the
after-68-112 engines by installing longer
or shorter pushrods.
Valve adjustment in the pre-68-112 is
maintained by the locking capability of
the adjusting nut. These nuts are of the'
locking variety, not the free-running type.
If you look at the end of the nut, you'll
see a definite triangular shape rather than
a round one. This deforms the threads so
there is friction between the nut and the
rocker-arm stud which causes some
amount of breakaway torque, or torque
to start the nut turning. This breakaway
torque should be a minimum of 5 ft. lbs.
if your engine is equipped with hydraulic
lifters, or 7 ft. lbs. for the .mechanical-
liftered HP289. The load and vibration
transferred t o valve train by a solid lifter
will cause the nut to lose adjustment
more than a hydraulic lifter. Although a.
solid-lifter valve-train adjustment is im-
mediatly affected by any adjustment
or nut movement, hydraulic lifters com-
pensate for changes within limits.
I f the tip of a valve is worn so the rocker-arm
rails are less than 1116-in. from the valve retainer
after its tip has been reconditioned, the valve
should be replaced.
I reserved cylinder-head disassembly
and inspection till now to go with recon-
ditioning because cylinder-head work
must be done in an orderly manner. Once
you start tearing your heads down, you
should continue with them until the job
is finished. This will greatly reduce the
possibility of losing or mixing up pieces .
Head reconditioning is a precise, tedious
and dirty job which requires special tools
or equipment. The best policy is to limit
your head work to removing and installing
them. You may do more harm than good
if you attempt to do more. Leave the
precision work to the specialist. It'll cost
you no more for the specialist to remove
the valves. However, if you have access
to some or all of the equipment, it's not
going to cost you any more to disassemble
the heads. By doing this you'll be able to
inspect the parts so you'll know what
must be done to pu t your heads back in
shape.
Rail- Rocker- to -Spring -Retainer Clear-
ance-If your engine is equipped with the
rail-type rocker arms, which were standard
for all small-blocks from late 66 to 1977,
check the clearance between the rails on
each rocker arm and its spring retainer.
This dimension should not be less than
0.0625 in. (l/16 in.)-original clearance is
0.085 in. A not-too-common occurrence
is for the valve-stem tip' and rocker arm to
wear to the point that this clearance is
completely gone. As a result the rocker-
arm rails begin to bear on the spring re-
tainer, eventually causing the retainers to
come loose. I mentioned this earlier in
the teardown chapter, but because of its
importance I'm repeating it. A dropped
. valve can literally destroy an engine, so be
careful when checking rocker-arm-to-
spring-retainer relationships.
Locate each rocker arm in its normal
Head Reconditioning 6
and Assembly
1969 Boss 302 Mustang engine with its unique cylinder heads. The
major objective behind this engine was to provide a practical
production engine that would be the basis for the strongest and
most powerful 5-liter (302 CID) engine for competition in the
SCCA Trans Am racing series-it was and they won. Photo courtesy
Ford.
position on its valve-stem tip and measure
the clearance between the rails and the
spring retainer. A six-inch scale is handy
for doing this, or use a 0.0625 in. thick-
ness of steel or aluminum sheet as a feeler
gauge. Discard any valve and rocker-arm
combination under the 1 /16-in . limit. The
reason for replacing the rocker arm too is
that excessive contact wear on one com-
ponent means the other component is
also too far gone-it will have also worn
in an erratic pattern. So, if the old rocker
arm were to be used with a new valve,
there would be excessive valve-tip loading
causing accelerated valve-tip and rocker-
arm wear .
TEARDOWN AND CLEANUP
Keep the Rocker Arms and Their Ful-
crums Together-When removing the
rocker arms, their fulcrums and adjusting
nuts remember to keep each fulcrum with
its rocker arm. String them on a piece of
wire, less the ones you've found to be ex-
cessively worn. Just like camshaft lobes
and lifters, rocker arms and their fulcrums
wear in together. Consequently, mixing
them up will result in galling.
Check Rocker-Arm Adjusting-Nut Tor-
que-Two methods have been used for
small-block Ford valve adjustment. Pre
68-1/2 valves were adjusted by moving
the rocker-arm nut vertically on the
rocker-arm-stud thread. After 68-1/2 the
thread on the stud was reduced in size from
3/8-24 (3/8-inch diameter and 24 threads-
per-inch) to 5/16-24, but the end pressed
in to the cylinder head was maintained at
3 /8-in. This was designated as Change
L4. Because the thread diameter was re-
duced but the unthreaded end diameter
maintained, a shoulder was created at the
bottom of the threads. Consequently, the
rocker-arm fulcrum is clamped between
this shoulder and the attaching nut-it's
not adjustable anymore, it is a posltzve-
stop setup. Valves are adjusted in the
after-68-1/2 engines by installing longer
or shorter pushrods.
Valve adjustment in the pre-68-1/2 is
maintained by the locking capability of
the adjusting nut. These nuts are of the
locking variety, not the free-running type.
If you look at the end of the nut, you'll
see a definite triangular shape rather than
a round one. This deforms the threads so
there is friction between the nut and the
rocker-arm stud which causes some
amount of breakaway torque, or torque
to start the nut turning. This breakaway
torque should be a minimum of 5 ft. Ibs.
if your engine is equipped with hydraulic
lifters, or 7 ft. Ibs. for the mechanical-
liftered HP289. The load and vibration
transferred to valve train by a solid lifter
will cause the nut to lose adjustment
more than a hydraulic lifter. Although a
solid-lifter valve-train adjustment is im-
mediatly affected by any adjustment
or nut movement, hydraulic lifters com-
pensate for changes within limits.
If the tip of a valve is worn so the rocker-arm
rails are less than 1/16-in. from the valve retainer
after its tip has been reconditionerl, the valve
should be replaced.
75
LOCK NUT
STUD NUT
FULCRUM
ROCKER ARM
Heal trouble about to occur: snlny spots on screw-ln stua IS nanaara equipment on nrzav ana uoss suz engines. IT you nave me nrrrrr, rnls
rockerarm rails and spring retainer indicate Palnut@ will increase time between rocker-arm adjustments. Boss 302 is already equipped with a jam
rocker arm is beginning t o push on retainer nut as shown by this Ford drawing of a Boss 302 rocker-arm-and-pivot assembly.
rather than the valve tip. This will eventually
loosen the keepers, letting the valve drop into
the cylinder. Valve and rocker arm must be
replaced.
When removing your rocker arms, take
time to check nut breakaway torque. For
the positive-stop type setup used after 68-
112, be particularly careful to check them
for stress cracks on their undersides radi-
ating out from the threads. A cracked nut
may split in two. Therefore, if a nut is
below minimum torque or it's cracked,
replace it with an OEM or OEM replace-
ment nut. Part numbers are C2DZ-6A529-
A for the pre-68-112 engines and DOAZ-
6A529-A for the later ones. Don't substi-
tute different style nuts. Jam nuts can be
used. If your rocker-arm nuts are in good
shape, but some are below minimum
torque, rather than purchasing new lock-
nuts, purchase 16 3/8-24 jam nuts. Install
them on top of the regular adjusting nuts.
This works especially well on the W289.
I'll say more about this later. The Boss
302 with its 7/16-20 studs was originally
equipped with jam nuts.
Removing the Valves and Springs-Now,
you'll need the first piece of equipment
not normally found in the standard tool
chest-a valve-spring compressor. A valve-
spring compressor is a specialized spring
compressor suited to cylinder-head work.
They are made specifically for compressing
valve springs so the keepers, locks, collets,
keys or whatever you want to call them
can be removed or installed so the valve
spring, spring retainer, valve and seal can
be removed or installed. There are two
types of spring compressors, the C-type
and the fork-type. If you have a choice,
pick the C-type. The fork-type is used for
working on heads installed on the engine,
so forget it because of its difficulty t o use.
The C-type compressor straddles the head
and pushes on the valve head and on the
spring simultaneously. This forces the
spring into a compressed position whl e
the valve stem projects out of the retainer
so the keepers can be removed or installed.
Loosening Sticky Keepers-When com-
pressing the valve springs, your1 probably
encounter sticky keepers. The trick here
is t o place the head right-side-up on your
bench or a block of wood, and using a
9116-in., 318-in. drive deep socket as a
driver, place the socket squarely over the
valve tip and on the retainer. A sharp rap
on the socket with your soft-faced mallet
will not only break loose the spring-retain-
er keepers, it may pop them out as well,
releasing the retainer and spring. If
you're lucky you won't have to use the
spring compressor. A small block of wood,
about 2 in. x 3 in. x 314 in., under the
valve head in the combustion chamber
will keep the valve from moving and the
keepers will literally "fly off." If this
method doesn't work 100% you have t o
revert t o the spring compressor and finish
removing the keepers.
With the keepers out of the way and in
a container where they won't get lost,
you can release the pressure on the spring
and remove the retainer and spring-if
you're using a compressor. Slide the valve
out of its seal and valve guide. Store the
valves in order. Throw the seals away.
They will be replaced just like the gaskets.
To keep the valves in order, use anything
from a cardboard box to a piece of lath
with 16 holes drilled in it. '68-112
through '7 1 engines will have loose valve-
stem-tip caps on the exhaust valves. Tape
them to their valves so they won't get
lost.
In addition to the stem-tip caps, spring
retainers were changed to a two-piece
assembly in '68-112 as part of Change L4.
Rather. than the one-piece machined
retainer, the two-piece retainer consists
of a spring retainer and a spring-retainer
sleeve which fits between the retainer and
the keepers. The change does not affect
interchangeability, you can use one
retainer in place of the other.
Exhaust-Valvestem-Tip Caps-Exhaust-
valve caps are essentially hardened-steel
hats fitted on the end of the exhaust
valves between each valve-stem tip and
rocker arm. The caps minimize valve-
stem-tip wear caused .by rail-type rocker
arms. Beginning in 1969, all 302s in
taxis, police cruisers and Broncos use caps
permanently fixed to their valves. After
1972, all 302s and 351Ws use the fixed-
type caps.
Real trouble about to occur: Shiny spots on
rocker-arm rails and spring retainer indicate
rocker arm is beginning to push on retainer
rather than the valve tip. This will eventually
loosen the keepers, letting the valve drop into
the cylinder. Valve and rocker arm must be
replaced.
When removing your rocker arms, take
time to check nut breakaway torque. For
the positive-stop type setup used after 68-
1/2, be particularly careful to check them
for stress cracks on their undersides radi-
ating out from the threads. A cracked nut
may split in two. Therefore, if a nut is
below minimum torque or it's cracked,
replace it with an OEM or OEM replace-
ment nut. Part numbers are C2DZ-6A529-
A for the pre-68-1/2 engines and DOAZ-
6AS29-A for the later ones . Don't substi-
tute different style nuts. Jam nuts can be
used. If your rocker-arm nuts are in good
shape, but some are below minimum
torque, rather than purchasing new lock-
nuts, purchase 163/8-24 jam nuts. Install
them on top of the regular adjusting nuts.
This works especially well on the HP289 .
I'll say more about this later. The Boss
302 with its 7/16-20 studs was originally
equipped with jam nuts.
Removing the Valves and Springs-Now,
you'll need the first piece of equipmen t
not normally found in the standard tool
chest-a valve-spring compressor. A valve-
spring compressor is a specialized spring
compressor suited to cylinder-head work.
They are made specifically for compressing
valve springs so the keepers, locks , collets,
keys or whatever you want to call them
can be removed or installed so the valve
spring, spring retainer, valve and seal can
be removed or installed. There are two
76
Screw-in stud is standard equipment on HP289 and Boss 302 engines. If you have the HP289, this
Palnut will increase time between rocker-arm adjustments. Boss 302 is already equipped with a jam
nut as shown by this Ford draWing of a Boss 302 rocker-arm-and-pivot assembly_
types of spring compressors, the C-type
and the fork-type. If you have a choice,
pick the C-type. The fork-type is used for
working on heads installed on the engine,
so forget it because of its difficulty to use.
The C-type compressor straddles the head
and pushes on the valve head and on the
spring simultaneously. This forces the
spring into a compressed position while
the valve stem projects out of the retainer
so the keepers can be removed or installed .
Loosening Sticky Keepers-When com-
pressing the valve springs, you'll probably
encounter sticky keepers. The trick here
is to place the head right-side-up on your
bench or a block of wood, and using a
9/16-in., 3/8-in. drive deep socket as a
driver, place the socket squarely over the
valve tip and on the retainer. A sharp rap
on the socket with your soft-faced mallet
will not only break loose the spring-retain-
er keepers, it may pop them out as well,
releasing the retainer and spring. If
you're lucky you won't have to use the
spring compressor . A small block of wood,
about 2 in . x 3 in. x 3/4 in., under the
valve head in the combustion chamber
will keep the valve from moving and the
keepers will literally "fly off." If this
method doesn't work 100% you have to
revert to the spring compressor and finish
removing the keepers.
With the keepers out of the way and in
a container where they won't get lost,
you can release the pressure on the spring
and remove the retainer and spring-if
you're using a compressor. Slide the valve
out of its seal and valve guide . Store the
valves in order. Throw the seals away.
They will be replaced just like the gaskets .
To keep the valves in order, use anything
froin a cardboard box to a piece of lath
with 16 holes drilled in it. '68-1/2
through '71 engines will have loose valve-
stem-tip caps on the exhaust valves. Tape
them to their valves so they won't get
lost.
In addition to the stem-tip caps, spring
retainers were changed to a two-piece
assembly in '68-1/2 as part of Change L4.
Rather than the one-piece machined
retainer, the two-piece retainer consists
of a spring retainer and a spring-retainer
sleeve which fits between the retainer and
the keepers. The change does not affect
interchangeability, you can use one
retainer in place of the other.
Exhaust-Valve-Stem-Tip Caps-Exhaust-
valve caps are essentially hardened-steel
hats fitted on the end of the exhaust
valves between each valve-stem tip and
rocker arm. The caps minimize valve-
stem-tip wear caused by rail-type rocker
arms. Beginning in 1969, all 302s in
taxis, police cruisers and Broncos use caps
permanently fixed to their valves. After
1972, all 302s and 351 Ws use the fixed-
type caps.
Removing valve and spring assemblies from a
cylinder head requires a spring compressor. A
tap on the spring retainer loosens the keepers so
the spring can be compressed and the keepers
removed.
I f your valves are equipped with removable tip
caps, don't lose them
~ G z e plugs are removed from heads like they werefrom the block-knock them in, then pry them
out.
Change L4-To sum up Change L4, the
following parts were affected: Rocker-
arm stud threads and nuts were reduced
from 3/8-24 t o 5/16-24 to stop, or locate
the rocker-arm fulcrums positively. This
requires different pushrods for valve
adjustment -6.905 -in. standard -length
pushrods with 0.060-in. longer or shorter
pushrods for adjustment. Single-piece
spring retainers were changed to two-
piece. Finally, hardened steel caps are
used on the exhaust-valve tips only.
Change U was instituted in mid-1968 in
the 302 engines and these changes were
incorporated in the new 351W engine
when introduced in 1969.
Knock Out the Freeze Plugs-With the
valves and related components gone the
only thing left t o remove from the heads
are the freeze plugs-one at each end.
Remove them using the same method you
used when removing the plugs from the
block. Knock them out-actually in-and
then pry them out with pliers. Now your
heads are bare with the exception of the
rocker-arm studs, grease, dirt and old
gasket material.
CLEANUP AND INSPECTION
Scrape, Scrape, Scrape-Time for the old
gasket scraper and elbow grease again. As
you probably found when scraping the
deck surface of your engine block, head
gaskets seem to grow to the rhetal. If you
had your heads hot-tanked the job will be
easier and a lot cleaner. Clean all gasket
surfaces, the head-gasket, intake-manifold
and rocker-arm-cover-sealing surfaces of
all old gasket material. Using a round file,
clean the head-to-block water passages of
all deposits.
It's time again t o misuse a screwdriver
or a small chisel. Scrape the carbon
deposits from the combustion chambers
and intake and exhaust ports. After the
heavy work is done, finish the job with a
Putting the I old gasket scraper t o work.
wire brush. This will put a light polish on
the surfaces so you can spot any cracks
which may have developed in the com-
bustion chambers, particularly around the
valve-seat area. If you do find cracks in
any of these areas, consider the head junk
and replace it even though it could be
repaired by welding. Chances are the
repair cost would exceed the replacement
cost.
Head-Surface Flatness-Because cylinder
heads are subjected to extreme heat, com-
pression and combustion loads and are
structurally weak compared t o an engine
block, they are susceptible to warpage.
Excessive mismatch between the block
and head surfaces causes combustion
or coolant leakages, consequently those
surfaces must be flat. Check the head-
gasket surfaces with a straight-edge and
feeler gauges. Set the straight-edge length-
wise and diagonally across the head in
both directions. Measure clearances which
Removing valve and spring assemblies from a
cylinder head requires a spring compressor. A
tap on the spring retainer loosens the keepers so
the spring can be compressed and the keepers
removed.
If your valves are equipped with removable tip
caps, don't lose them
Freeze plugs are removed from heads like they were from the block-knock them in, then pry them
out.
Change L4-To sum up Change IA, the
following parts were affected : Rocker-
arm stud threads and nuts were reduced
from 3/8-24 to 5/16-24 to stop, or locate
the rocker-arm fulcrums positively. This
requires different pushrods for valve
adjustment -6.905 -in. standard -length
pushrods with 0 .060-in . longer or shorter
pushrods for adjustment. Single-piece
spring retainers were changed to two-
piece. Finally, hardened steel caps are
used on the exhaust-valve tips only.
Change lA was instituted in mid-1968 in
the 302 engines and these changes were
incorporated in the new 351 W engine
when introduced in 1969.
Knock Out the Freeze Plugs-With the
valves and related components gone the
only thing left to remove from the heads
are the freeze plugs-one at each end .
Remove them using the same method you
used when removing the plugs from the
block. Knock them out-actually in-and
then pry them out with pliers. Now your
heads are bare with the exception of the
rocker-arm studs , grease, dirt and old
gasket material.
CLEANUP AND INSPECTION
Scrape, Scrape, Scrape-Time for the old
gasket scraper and elbow grease again . As
you probably found when scraping the
deck surface of your engine block, head
gaskets seem to grow to the metal. If you
had your heads hot-tanked the job will be
easier and a lot cleaner . Clean all gasket
surfaces, the head-gasket, intake-manifold
and rocker-arm-cover-sealing surfaces of
all old gasket material. Using a round file,
clean the head-to-block water passages of
all deposits.
It's time again to misuse a screwdriver
or a small chisel. Scrape the carbon
deposits from the combustion chambers
and intake and exhaust ports. After the
heavy work is done, finish the job with a
Putting the good old gasket scraper to work.
wire brush. This will put a light polish on
the surfaces so you can spot any cracks
which may have developed in the com-
bustion chambers, particularly around the
valve-seat area. If you do find cracks in
any of these areas , consider the head junk
and replace it even though it could be
repaired by welding. Chances are the
repair cost would exceed the replacement
cost.
Head-Surface Flatness-Because cylinder
heads are subjected to extreme heat, com- .
pression and combustion loads and are
structurally weak compared to an engine
block, they are susceptible to warpage .
Excessive mismatch between the block
and head surfaces causes combustion
or coolan t leakages, consequently those
surfaces must be flat. Check the head-
gasket surfaces with a straight-edge and
feeler gauges. Set the straight-edge length-
wise and diagonally across the head in
both directions. Measure clearances which
77
Get those gasket surfaces clean. Make carbon removal part of your cylinder-
head cleanup. I'm using a screwdriver for the
heavy work, and will finish up with a wire
brush.
Resurfacing a warped cylinder head. Use
accompanying chart to determine intake-mani-
fold milling requirements if more than 0.020
in. is removed from heads.
Press-in stud being removed by shimming up from stud boss with rocker-arm .,.,.,..... . .ee-running
nut is tightened down on fulcrums using a deep socket and ratchet to draw stud out. Add shims as
required to keep from running out of threads.
78
Get those gasket surfaces clean. Make carbon removal part of your cylinder
head cleanup. I'm using a screwdriver for the
heavy work, and will finish up with a wire
brush.
Resurfacing a warped cylinder head. Use
accompanying chart to determine intake-mani
fold milling requirements if more than 0.020
in. is removed from heads.
Press-in stud being removed by shimming up from stud boss with rockerarm fulcrums. Freerunning
nut is tightened down on fulcrums using a deep socket and ratchet to draw stud out . Add shims as
required to keep from running out of threads.
New stud ready for installation. Jam a couple of nuts on the stud with the top nut even with the
end of the stud, then drive it into place using a soft hammer. End of stud should be even with t h ~
others.
appear between the head and the straight-
edge with your feeler gauges. The maxi-
mum allowable variation in the gasket
surfaces is 0.003 inch in any six inches of
length and 0.006 inch for the overall
length of the head for engines with 10:l
compression or more; 0.007 inch,for those
with lower compression ratios. Limit war-
warpage to half of the figures I just quoted
if you plan on using shim-type gaskets as
opposed t o the more compliant composi-
tion gaskets.
Cylinder-Head Milling-Whether one or
both of your heads need to be resur-
faced do them both. You don't want
to reduce the combustion chamber
volumes in one head and not the other.
The result would be an increase in the
compression ratio of one bank of cylinders
causing more compression on one side of
your engine.
Although more material can be removed
from a cylinder head, I suggest you limit
the amount to 0.010 inch. If necessary, a
small-block Ford head can be milled
0.040 inch, however the problem with
going this far is you'll boost your engine's
compression ratio substantially which is
not a good idea with currently available
fuels. This is particularly critical if your
engine is one of the pre-1972 premium-
fuel engines. Mill the heads on one of these
engines and you will probably end up
with an engine which can't be operated
without detonating.
Another consideration when milling
your cylinder heads is the intake mani-
fold. It must be milled too if more than
0.020 inch is removed from the heads
because the intake ports, water passages
and intake-manifold bolt holes move
down and toward the center of the engine.
Consequently, they will not line up with
those in the intake manifold. Therefore,
the manifold's bottom and cylinder-head
gasket surfaces or sides must also be
milled. Less than 0.020 inch removed
from the heads is not significant enough
t o cause head and manifold alignment
problems. Any more than this amount
requires removing material from the
manifold also. Refer to the nearby chart
to determine manifold machining require-
ments with respect t o cylinder-head
milling.
Rocker-Arm-Stud Replacement-Three
defects require the replacement of a
rocker-arm stud: damaged threads, a
broken stud and a loose stud. Damaged
threads range from those that are stripped,
to those on which the adjusting nut
doesn't have the minimum breakaway
torque, regardless of whether the nut
used for checking is new or not, and finally
t o one that has a notch worn in it from
the rocker arm rolling over on its side and
contacting the stud with the inside edge
of its clearance hole. The last one may
eventually result in a broken stud if not
replaced. As for a broken stud, chances
are you won't find any unless it was the
"straw that broke the camel's back," or it
was what made you decide to rebuild
your engine. The final problem is a loose
stud. Just as with a broken stud, chances
are your engine won't have one because it
will have pulled out of the head while
your engine was still running, consequent-
ly it would have been replaced. But, again,
it may have been the "final straw."
All small-block Fords, with exception
of the HP 289, Boss 302 and those using
pedestal-type pivots, use pressed-in rocker-
arm studs. The studs are pressed into holes
smaller in diameter than the studs. The
interference fit prevents the stud from
coming out. The HP 289 uses screw-in-
type studs because the press-in type would
eventually pull out of the head due t o
higher loads imposed by high-rate valve
springs and solid, or mechanical lifters.
The cylinder heads are drilled and tapped
t o accept a threaded stud. Stud C30Z-
6A527-B has a 7/16-14 thread at the
cylinder-head end, a hex for locating and
tightening the stud in the head and the
pre-68-112 3/8-24 threads at the rocker-
arm end.
Rocker-Arm-Stud Removal-The proce-
dure required to remove a damaged press-
in type stud depends on how the stud is
damaged. A special stud remover locates
around the stud and seats on the cylinder
head as a nut is run down on the stud
thread and bottoms against the puller.
The puller has a ball-bearing seat so there
will be little friction at the puller as the
nut pulls the stud from the head as it is
threaded down on the stud. You can pull
a stud without the use of a special puller
by using one of your sockets and a stack
of washers between the socket and the
bottom of the nut. To reduce friction at
the nut and washers, grease them lightly.
As the stud moves out of the head, you'll
have to add additional washers under the
nut when it begins to run out of thread.
New stud ready for installation . Jam a couple of nuts on the stud with the top nut even with the
end of the stud, then drive it into place using a soft hammer. End of stud should be even with the
others.
appear between the head and the straight-
edge with your feeler gauges. The maxi-
mum allowable variation in the gasket
surfaces is 0 .003 inch in any six inches of
length and 0.006 inch for the overall
length of the head for engines with 10:1
compression or more; 0 .007 inchfor those
with lower compression ratios. Limit war-
warpage to half of the figures I just quoted
if you plan on using shim-type gaskets as
opposed to the more compliant composi-
tion gaskets .
Cylinder-Head Milling-Whether one or
both of your heads need to be resur-
faced do them both. You don't want
to reduce the combustion chamber
volumes in one head and not the other.
The result would be an increase in the
compression ratio of one bank of cylinders
causing more compression on one side of
your engine .
Although more material can be removed
from a cylinder head, I suggest you limit
the amount to 0 .010 inch. If necessary, a
small-block Ford head can be milled
0.040 inch, however the problem with
going this far is you'll boost your engine's
compression ratio substantially which is
not a good idea with currently available
fuels. This is particularly critical if your
engine is one of the pre-1972 premium-
fuel engines. Mill the heads on one of these
engines and you will probably end up
wi th an engine which can't be opera ted
without detonating.
Another consideration when milling
your cylinder heads is the intake mani-
fold. It must be milled too if more than
0.020 inch is removed from the heads
because the intake ports, water passages
and intake-manifold bolt holes move
down and toward the center of the engine.
Consequently, they will not line up with
those in the intake manifold. Therefore,
the manifold's bottom and cylinder-head
gasket surfaces or sides must also be
milled . Less than 0.020 inch removed
from the heads is not significant enough
to cause head and manifold alignment
problems. Any more than this amount
requires removing material from the
manifold also . Refer to the nearby chart
to determine manifold machining require-
ments with respect to cylinder-head
milbng.
Rocker-Arm-Stud Replacement-Three
defects require the replacement of a
rocker-arm stud: damaged threads, a
broken stud and a loose stud. Damaged
threads range from those tha t are stripped,
to those on which the adjusting nut
doesn't have the minimum breakaway
torque, regardless of whether the nut
used for checking is new or not, and finally
to one that has a notch worn in it from
the rocker arm rolling over on its side and
contacting the stud with the inside edge
of its clearance hole. The last one may
eventually result in a broken stud if not
replaced . As for a broken stud, chances
are you won't find any unless it was the
"straw that broke the camel's back," or it
was what made you decide to rebuild
your engine. The final problem is a loose
stud. Just as with a broken stud, chances
are your engine won't have one because it
will have pulled out of the head while
your engine was still running, consequent-
ly it would have been replaced. But, again,
it may have been the "final straw."
All small-block Fords, with exception
of the HP 289, Boss 302 and those using
pedestal-type pivots, use pressed-in rocker-
arm studs. The studs are pressed into holes
smaller in diameter than the studs. The
interference fit prevents the stud from
coming out. The HP 289 uses screw-in-
type studs because the press-in type would
eventually pull out of the head due to
higher loads imposed by high-rate valve
springs and solid, or mechanical lifters.
The cylinder heads are drilled and tapped
to accept a threaded stud. Stud C30Z-
6A527-B has a 7/16-14 thread at the
cylinder-head end, a hex for locating and
tightening the stud in the head and the
pre-68-1/2 3/8-24 threads at the rocker-
arm end.
Rocker-Arm-Stud Removal-The proce-
dure required to remove a damaged press-
in type stud depends on how the stud is
damaged. A special stud remover locates
around the stud and seats on the cylinder
head as a nut is run down on the stud
thread and bottoms against the puller.
The puller has a ball-bearing seat so there
will be little friction at the puller as the
nut pulls the stud from the head as it is
threaded down on the stud. You can pull
a stud without the use of a special puller '
by using one of your sockets and a stack
of washers between the socket and the
bottom of the nut. To reduce friction at
the nut and washers, grease them lightly.
As the stud moves ou t of the head, you'll
have to add additional washers under the
nu t when it begins to run ou t of thread.
79
Tapping and installing a screw-in stud. End of the 7/16-14 tap has been ground on the end for piloting in the original hole so the stud will be straight
when installed. With some locking sealer on the threads, screw in the stud, using a couple of nuts jammed together. Check the position of the stud with a
straight-edge across the tops of the studs or with a ruler by measuring up from the stud boss or stand. This sequence shows installing an after-market stud.
Machining is required t o install an HP289 screw-in stud.
All thls sounds relatively easy, and it is,
until you consider the type of damage to
the stud. For example, if by chance the
stud is loose, the job will be easy. On the
other hand, if it is broken off, it won't be
easy and the degree of difficulty depends
where it's broken. Normally a stud breaks
off at the end of the threads. Consequent-
ly, there are no threads to pull the stud,
so you'll have to put threads on the un-
threaded portion with a thread die.
Use a 3/8-24 die and put as many threads
on the remainder of the stud as you can.
The pulling technique will be the same
except there probably won't be room for
a socket, so just use a stack of washers t o
pull against. The problem is compounded
when a stud breaks off farther down or
flush with the head where you can't get
enough, or any threads on the stud. You'll
then have to drill the stud out. Start by
center-punching the center of the stud so
you get a good start with the drill and
won't end up drilling off into the cylinder
head. For the same reason, drill a pilot
hole in the stud-an 118-in. diameter drill
will do-while being careful to keep the
drill square with the stud. Increase the size
of the drills progressively until you break
out the side of the stud, or have come very
close t o it. When this happens, the inter-
ference fit between the stud and the head
will be relieved, leaving the stud free t o
be removed. This can be done with a bolt
extractor. Screw it in the center of the
stud and pull the stud out by clamping on
the end of the extractor with a pair of
Vise-Grip@ pliers.
For a stud that's stripped, it might
have a portion of good threads that can
be used for pulling. If this is the case, you
won't have as much thread to work with
so you'll have t o pull the stud a little at a
time in between adding washers. If most
of the thread is damaged you'll then have
to cut new threads on the unthreaded
portion of the stud, as with a broken stud,
and pull it out using the same method.
Removing a threaded stud is relatively
easy. All you have t o do is unscrew it
unless it's broken off below the hex por-
tion of the stud. You'll then have to drill
the remainder of the stud out like is
done with the press-in type, however, be
careful not to get into the threads. When
the hole in the center of the stud is big
enough to accept a bolt extractor, install
one and back the stud out.
Rocker-Arm-Stud Installation-If the stud
you're replacing was broken or, had
damaged threads, you can replace it with
a standard diameter stud if it's the press-
in type. There's a special tool made just
for this purpose, but if you stack three
free-running nuts, as opposed to the lock-
ing type, on the end of the stud with the
last nut projecting slightly above the end
of the stud and tighten the nuts against
one another, you can drive the stud in
with a brass mallet. Don't hammer on the
end of a stud t o install it, otherwise you'll
ruin the threads and the stud. Before driv-
ing the stud in, wipe some moly grease on
the pilot end of the stud. This will let the
stud install easier without galling it or the
hole in the head. Start the stud by lining
it up with the hole as best as you can.
Tap it in a little at a time until 1-314-
inches is left projecting out of the head.
The best way of checking this is to scribe
a mark on the stud 1-314-inches down
from the threaded end. Stop driving the
stud in when this mark lines up with the
stud boss and you've got it.
Oversize Studs-Stud installation becomes
complicated when you have to replace
one that was loose. Because it was loose,
the hole in the head will be enlarged.
Consequently, if you attempt t o replace
the loose one with the same size stud, it
will also be loose. To do the job right you
have to install an oversize stud if you
decide to stay with the press-in type. I
say this because there's an easier way of
replacing rocker-arm studs which I'll dis-
cuss next, but back to the oversize stud.
How much oversize depends on the stud
size you'll be using. There are three avail-
able. The standard stud has - 0.3717-
0.372 1 -in. diameter measured 1-1 12-in.
up from the bottom. Oversize studs are
available in 0.006-, 0.01 0- and 0.01 5-in.
over the standard diameter. The best
policy to follow when choosing which
oversize to use is use the smallest one
possible. This means don't go to 0.01 S-iin.
oversize when a 0.006-in, oversize stud
will do the job.
To install an oversize stud, the hole
in the cylinder head must first be reamed
to size. The finish diameter should provide
for approximately a 0.0007-in. interfer-
ence fit between the stud and the hole.
When reaming the hole, don't start with
the finish-size reamer. Gradually work up
to the finished size. This means you'll
either have t o use more than one reamer
or a special step-type reamer made
especially for this application. Conse-
quently, installing an oversize stud can
be an expensive proposition if you don't
have access to a tool room or a kit which
your Ford dealer can get especially for
this purpose-which I might add will cost
$30 compared to the approximate $1.50
Tapping and installing a screwin stud. End of the 7/1614 tap has been ground on the end for piloting in the original hole so the stud will be straight
when installed. With some locking sealer on the threads, screw in the stud, using a couple of nuts jammed together. Check the position of the stud with a
straightedge across the tops of the studs or with a ruler by measuring up from the stud boss or stand. This sequence shows installing an aftermarket stud.
Machining is required to install an HP289 screwin stud.
All this sounds relatively easy, and it is,
until you consider the type of damage to
the stud. For example, if by chance the
stud is loose, the job will be easy. On the
other hand, if it is broken off, it won ' t be
easy and the degree of difficulty depends
where it's broken. Normally a stud breaks
off at the end of the threads. Consequent
Iy, there are no threads to pull the stud,
so you'll have to pu t threads on the un
threaded portion with a thread die .
Use a 3/8-24 die and put as many threads
on the remainder of the stud as you can .
The pulling technique will be the same
except there probably won ' t be room for
a socket , so just use a stack of washers to
pull against. The problem is compounded
when a stud breaks off farther down or
flush with the head where you can't get
enough, or any threads on the stud . You' ll
then have to drill the stud ou t. Start by
centerpunching the center of the stud so
you get a good start with the drill and
won' t end up drilling off into the cylinder
head. For the same reason, drill a pilot
hole in the stud-an 1 /8in. diameter drill
will do-while being careful to keep the
drill square with the stud. Increase the size
of the drills progressively un til you break
ou t the side of the stud, or have come very
close to it. When this happens , the inter
ference fit between the stud and the head
will be relieved , leaving the stud free to
be removed . This can be done with a bolt
extractor. Screw it in the center of the
stud and pull the stud out by clamping on
the end of the extractor with a pair of
ViseGrip pliers .
For a stud that' s stripped, it might
have a portion of good threads that can
be used for pulling. If this is the case, you
won't have as much thread to work with
80
so you'll have to pull the stud a little at a
time in between adding washers. If most
of the thread is damaged you'll then have
to cut new threads on the unthreaded
portion of the stud , as with a broken stud,
and pull it out using the same method .
Removing a threaded stud is relatively
easy. All you have to do is unscrew it
unless it's broken off below the hex por
tion of the stud. You'll then have to drill
the remainder of the stud out like is
done with the pressin type , however, be
careful not to get into the threads. When
the hole in the center of the stud is big
enough to accept a bolt extractor , install
one and back the stud out.
RockerArm-Stud Installation-If the stud
you're repl acing was broken or ~ had
damaged threads, you can replace it with
a standard diameter stud if it's the press
in type. There's a special tool made just
for this purpose, but if you stack three
freerunning nuts, as opposed to the lock
ing type, on the end of the stud with the
last nut projecting slightly above the end
of the stud and tighten the nuts against
one another, you can drive the stud in
with a brass mallet. Don't hammer on the
end of a stud to install it, otherwise you '11
ruin the threads and the stud. Before driv
ing the stud in , wipe some moly grease on
the pilot end of the stud. This will let the
stud install easier without galling it or the
hole in the head. Start the stud by lining
it up with the hole as best as you can .
Tap it in a little at a time until 13/4.
inches is left projecting out of the head .
The best way of checking this is to scribe
a mark on the stud 13/4inches down
from the threaded end. Stop driving the
stud in when this mark lines up with the
stud boss and you've got it.
Oversize Studs-Stud installation becomes
complicated when you have to replace
one that was loose . Because it was loose,
the hole in the head will be enlarged .
Consequently, if you attempt to replace
the loose one with the same size stud, it
will also be loose. To do the job right you
have to install an oversize stud if you
decide to stay with the pressin type. I
say this because there's an easier way of
replacing rockerarm studs which I'll dis
cuss next, but back to the oversize stud .
How much oversize depends on the stud
size you'll be using. There are three avail
able . The standard stud has 0.3 717-
0.372Iin. diameter measured 11/2in.
up from the bottom. Oversize studs are
available in 0.006, 0 .010 and O.OISin .
over the standard diameter . The best
policy to follow when choosing which
oversize to use is use the smallest one
possible. This means don' t go to O.OISin.
oversize when a 0.006in. oversize stud
will do the job.
To install an oversize stud , the hole
in the cylinder head must first be reamed
to size . The finish diameter should provide
for approximately a 0.0007in. interfer
ence fit between the stud and the hole.
When reaming the hole, don't start with
the finish-size reamer. Gradually work up
to the finished size. This means you'll
either have to use more than one reamer
or a special steptype reamer made
especially for this application . Conse
quently, installing an oversize stud can
be an expensive proposition if you don't
have access to a tool room or a kit which
your Ford dealer can get especially for
this purpose-which I might add will cost
$30 compared to the approximate $I .SO
You can feel if a valve guide is worn by just wiggling a valve in the guide. To determine just how much one is worn, install a valve in the guide so its tip is
even with the top of the guide. Measure how much i t wiggles-the difference between A and 6. Divide this figure by 3.5 you'll have the approximate
stem-to-guide clearance. Measure the wiggle sideways too.
cost for an oversize st ud. Once you have
the hole reamed t o size, follow the same
procedure as outlined for installing st an-
dard studs.
Screw-In Studs-Now, for t he met hod I
prefer-even for replacing a stud which
doesn't require reaming. That is t o tap
t he stud hole using a 7/ 16-14 t ap and in-
stall a screw-in st ud. There is a danger
with using this met hod. The tap must go
in straight otherwise the st ud will lean,
causing the rocker arm t o cut i nt o t he
side of t he st ud.
Two basic types of screw-in studs are
available. The aftermarket straight-shank
type has t o be installed by jamming t wo
nuts together on t he rocker-arm end so
there will be something t o thread the st ud
in the hole with and tighten i t down. The
HP289 st ud, PN C30Z-6A527-B, is more
convenient t o install because i t has a built-
in nut. This, however creates a problem
because the rocker-arm st ud boss must be
milled 1 / 4 i n. lower so the rocker arm can
be correctly positioned. This'll require
the services of a machine shop.
Both of these screw-in studs are com-
patible with t he early-style rocker arms
and t he rail-type rockers. You'll have t o
use the larger 3/ 8-24 lock-nut if you are
replacing a positive-stop type st ud and
adjust the one valve using t he nut . You'll
end up with a positive installation, avoid-
ing the hassle of reaming and pressing in
t he new st ud.
Seal the Threads-Screw-in rocker-arm
studs go through i nt o the water jacket.
You must use sealer on the stud threads
or coolant will leak out of t he head, end-
ing up i n your oil. Ford studs are hard t o
screw in because t he threads are tight
fitting so they'll lock in the head aut o-
matically. Aftermarket manufactured
screw-in studs fit loosely, so it's a good
idea t o use a locking sealer such as Loctite
Lock N'Seal@ compound. Torque the
st ud t o 60-70 lbs.
VALVE GUIDES AND VALVE STEMS
Valve-guide inspection and machni ng
marks the beginning of hard-core cylinder-
head machine-shop-type work which
carries on over i nt o valve and valve-seat
reconditioning. This work requires special
equipment and special skills. If done in-
correctly, i t will ruin what would other-
wise be a successful rebuild. If a valve
guide is excessively worn, i t won't guide
the valve so i t can close squarely on its
seat. Consequently, a valve can't seal
properly as i t will wiggle and bounce on
its seat before closing. This eventually
beats out a valve seat and accelerates guide
wear. Secondly, a worn guide lets t oo
much oil pass between the valve stem and
guide, resulting in excessive oil consump-
tion.
With this in mi nd, I'll cover the basics
involved in reconditioning your heads,
valve guides, and seats and valves.
Measuring Valve-Guide Wear-There are
four ways t o measure valve-guide wear:
with a dial indicator at t he t i p of a valve
which is in place in t he guide, by wiggling
a valve in the guide and measuring its
movement, with a taper pilot and a set of
micrometers or with a small-hole gauge
and some micrometers.
To check guide wear or clearance with
a dial indicator: Install a valve in the
guide. Mount the dial indicator 90"
t o the valve stem in the direction you
want t o measure wear. Maximum wear
usually occurs in t he plane of t he valve
stem and t he rocker-arm pivot. It can
be in the opposite direction, or in the
plane running. lengthwise with the head if
rail rocker arms are used. With t he valve
about 118 in. off its seat and the indi-
cator tip-it should be a flat one-con-
tacting t he valve st em close t o the t op of
t he guide, hold t he stem away from the
indicator and zero t he indicator dial.
Push the tip end of the valve stem toward
the indicator and read t he clearance
directly.
Wiggling a valve in its guide t o deter-
mine stem-to-guide clearance requires a
minimum amount of equipment. It's
not t he most accurate met hod, but it's
good enough t o determine whether your
guides need further at t ent i on. It's done
by measuring how much a valve wiggles,
or moves at its head when pulled out of
its guide so its tip is flush with the t op of
the guide. The amount of wiggle divided
by 3.5 is approximately the stem-to-
guide clearance in t he direction of wiggle,
or movement. Measure valve wiggle with
a dial indicator or the depth-gauge end of
a vernier caliper.
Using a taper pilot is t he least accurate
way of determining stem t o guide clear-
ance. A taper pilot is a tapered pin which
is inserted i nt o t he end of a guide until
it is snug. The diameter where t he pilot
stops is measured t o determine guide
diameter at t he t op or bot t om, and com-
pared t o what its diameter should be t o
determine wear. This sounds great except
for one thlng. The pilot measures the
minimum distance across the guide rather
t han t he maximum distance. It's the max-
i mum distance you should be looking for,
so don' t use this met hod.
- GUIDE
You can feel if a valve guide is worn by just wiggling a valve in the guide. To determine just how much one is worn, install a valve in the guide so its tip is
even with the top of the guide. Measure how much it wiggles-the difference between A and B. Divide this figure by 3.5 you'll have the approximate
stem-to-guide clearance. Measure the wiggle sideways too.
cost for an oversize stud. Once you have
the hole reamed to size, follow the same
procedure as outlined for installing stan-
dard studs.
Screw-In Studs-Now, for the method I
prefer-even for replacing a stud which
doesn't require reaming. That is to tap
the stud hole using a 7/16-14 tap and in-
stall a screw-in stud. There is a danger
with using this method. The tap must go
in straight otherwise the stud will lean,
causing the rocker arm to cut into the
side of the stu d.
Two basic types of screw-in studs are
available. The aftermarket straight-shank
type has to be installed by jamming two
nuts together on the rocker-arm end so
there will be something to thread the stud
in the hole with and tighten it down. The
HP289 stud , PN C30Z-6A527-B, is more
convenient to install because it has a built-
in nut. This, however creates a problem
because the rocker-arm stud boss must be
milled 1/4 in. lower so the rocker arm can
be correctly posi tioned. This'll reqUire
the services of a machine shop.
Both of these screw-in studs are com-
patible with the early-style rocker arms
and the rail-type rockers. You'll have to
use the larger 3/8-24 lock-nut if you are
replacing a positive-stop type stud and
adjust the one valve using the nut. You'll
end up with a positive installation, avoid-
ing the hassle of reaming and pressing in
the new stud .
Seal the Threads-Screw-in rocker-arm
studs go through into the water jacket.
You must use sealer on the stud threads
or coolant will leak out of the head , end-
ing up in your oil. Ford studs are hard to
screw in because the threads are tigh t
fitting so they'll lock in the head auto-
matically. Aftermarket manufactured
screw-in studs fit loosely, so it's a good
idea to use a locking sealer such as Locti te
Lock N'Seal compound. Torque the
stud to 60-70 Ibs.
VALVE GUIDES AND VALVE STEMS
Valve-guide inspection and machining
marks the beginning of hard-core cylinder-
head machine-shop-type work which
carries on over into valve and valve-seat
reconditioning. This work requires special
equipment and special skills. If done in-
correctly, it will ruin what would other-
wise be a successful rebuild. If a valve
gUide is excessively worn, it won't guide
the valve so it can close squarely on its
sea t. Consequen tly, a valve can't seal
properly as it will wiggle and bounce on
its seat before closing. This eventually
beats out a valve seat and accelerates guide
wear. Secondly, a worn gUide lets too
much oil pass between the valve stem and
guide, reSUlting in excessive oil consump-
tion.
With this in mind, I'll cover the basics
involved in reconditioning your heads ,
valve guides, and seats and valves.
Measuring Valve-Guide Wear-There are
four ways to measure valve-guide wear:
with a dial indicator at the tip of a valve
which is in place in the guide, by wiggling
a valve in the guide and measuring its
movement, with a taper pilot and a set of
micrometers or with a small-hole gauge
and some micrometers.
To check guide wear or clearance with
a dial indicator: Install a valve in the
guide. Mount the dial indicator 90
to the valve stem in the di rection you
want to measure wear. Maximum wear
usually occurs in the plane of the valve
stem and the rocker-arm pivot. It can
be in the opposite direction, or in the
plane running. lengthwise with the head if
rail rocker arms are used. With the valve
about 1/8 in. off its seat and the indi-
cator tip-it should be a flat one-con-
tacting the valve stem close to the top of
the gUide, hold the stem away from the
indicator and zero the indicator dial.
Push the tip end of the valve stem toward
the indicator and read the clearance
directly.
Wiggling a valve in its guide to deter-
mine stem-to-guide clearance requires a
minimum amount of equipment. It's
not the most accurate method, but it's
good enough to determine whether your
guides need further a tten tion. It's done
by measuring how much a valve wiggles,
or moves at its head when pulled out of
its guide so its tip is flush with the top of
the guide. The amount of wiggle divided
by 3.5 is approximately the stem-to-
guide clearance in the direction of wiggle,
or movement. Measure valve wiggle with
a dial indicator or the depth-gauge end of
a vernier caliper.
Using a taper pilot is the least accurate
way of determining stem to guide clear-
ance. A taper pilot is a tapered pin which
is inserted into the end of a guide until
it is snug. The diameter where the pilot
stops is measured to determine guide
diameter at the top or bottom, and com-
pared to what its diameter should be to
determine wear. This sounds great except
for one thing. The pilot measures the
minimum distance across the guide rather
than the maximum distance. It 's the max-
imum distance you should be looking for,
so don't use this method.
81
being inserted must be tapped so the guide can
be threaded in. Once the insert is in place i t is
trimmed, locked in place and reamed t o size.
Photo by David Vizard.
The most accurate method of deter-
mining stem-to-guide clearance, or simply
guide wear is to use a small-hole gauge.
You'll want the 0.200-0.300-in. range-
the C-gauge. Unfortunately, a small-
hole-gauge set costs about $30, and that's
the only way you can buy them,in a set.
However, if you have access to one or
have decided to make the investment,
here's how to use it.
Insert the ball-end of the gauge in the
guide and expand it until it fits the guide
with a light drag. Check the guide bore
at several depths and in several planes t o
determine maximum guide wear. After
you have the gauge set, withdraw it and
mike the ball end. This will give you a
direct measurement of the guide-bore
cross section at the specific point. Sub-
tract the stem diameter of the valve t o
be installed in the guide and you'll have
the exact stem-to-guide clearance at the
point of maximum wear. Measure around
the guide at its top and bottom to deter-
mine its maximum and minimum diame-
ters. Subtract the two numbers. If the
difference, or out-ofround exceeds 0.002
in., your guides should be reconditioned.
How Much Guide Clearance?-The upper
clearance for valve guides and stems is
0.005 in. The range for new stem-and-
guide clearance is 0.0010-0.0020 in. for
-
Thin-wall bronze valve-guide insert and the tools required t o install it.
the intake and 0.00 15-0.0025 in. for the
exhaust. The limit you set for guide wear
before redoing your guide should not be
the maximum 0.005-in. limit, but some-
where between this figure and the average-
standard stem-to-guide clearance-approx-
imately 0.002 in. for both intake and
exhaust valves. The number you decide
on should be determined by the number
of good miles you expect from your
engine after the rebuild. By comparing
the actual valve-guide clearance to the
average standard clearance and the maxi-
mum wear limit, you can judge how many
miles are left on your guides before the
limit is exceeded. When doing this keep
one very important point in mind. As a
valve stem and guide wear, they do so at
an increasing rate. In other words, the
more they are worn, the faster they will
wear. A guide and stem that has 0.003-in.
clearance may very well wear at twice the
rate as one having 0.002-in. clearance.
Consider the valve seats too. A valve
that is sloppy in its guide will wobble
when closing, resulting in the seat getting
beat out. Incidently, valve-guide wear is
higher in an engine used for stop-and-go
driving, so all things considered it takes
good old "horse sense" when determining
when it's time t o redo your guides.
Valve-Guide Reconditioning-Valve guides
can be restored by several different meth-
ods ranging from one I consider to be less
than satisfactory to one that results in
better-than-original valve guides. In the
order of increasing desirability: knurling,
oversized valves and guide inserts.
Knurling the Guides-Knurling involves
rolling a pattern into the existing valve
guide which displaces material and raises
a pattern in the guide. This reduces the
effective diameter of the valve guide,
making it smaller than the original guide.
By effective diameter, I mean the diameter
inside the guide between the top of the
displaced material, or bumps on one side,
t o the top of the bumps on the other side.
Because the valve guide is now effectively
smaller, the guide must be reamed to stan-
dard size. After knurling, the guide will
consist of a series of peaks and valleys
with the peaks smoothed off to act as the
guide surface.
The problem with knurling is it's the
cheap way out. And as is usually the case,
it's more cheap than effective. The reason
is the actual contact area between the
guide and valve stem is substantially re-
duced, causing a proportionate increase in
stem-to-guide contact pressure. Conse-
quently, the guide wears faster. Therefore,
the oil consumption problem caused by
worn guides will not be cured, just delayed.
A screw-in bronze valve-guide insert. The guide
being inserted must be tapped so the guide can
be threaded in. Once the insert is in place it is
trimmed, locked in place and reamed to size_
Photo by David Vizard.
The most accurate method of deter-
mining stem-to-guide clearance, or simply
guide wear is to use a small-hole gauge .
You'll want the 0.200-0.300-in. range -
the C-gauge. Unfortunately, a small-
hole-gauge set costs about $30, and that's
the only way you can buy them, in a set.
However, if you have access to one or
have decided to make the investment,
here's how to use it.
Insert the ball -end of the gauge in the
guide and expand it until it fits the guide
with a light drag. Check the guide bore
at several depths and in several planes to
determine maximum guide wear. After
you have the gauge set, withdraw it and
mike the ball end_ This will give you a
direct measurement of the guide-bore
cross section at the specific point. Sub-
tract the stem diameter of the valve to
be installed in the guide and you'll have
the exact stem-to-guide clearance at the
point of maximum wear. Measure around
the guide at its top and bottom to deter-
mine its maximum and minimum diame-
ters. Subtract the two numbers . If the
difference, or out-aI-round exceeds 0.002
in., your guides should be reconditioned.
How Much Guide Clearance?-The upper
clearance for valve guides and stems is
0.005 in . The range for new stem-and-
guide clearance is 0.0010-0 .0020 in. for
82
Thin-wall bronze valve-guide insert and the tools required to install it.
the intake and 0.0015-0.0025 in. for the
exhaust. The limit you set for guide wear
before redoing your guide should not be
the maximum 0.005-in. limit, but some-
where between this figure and the average-
standard stem-to-guide clearance-approx-
imately 0.002 in . for both intake and
exhaust valves. The number you decide
on should be determined by the number
of good miles you expect from your
engine after the rebuild . By comparing
the actual valve-guide clearance to the
average standard clearance and the maxi-
mum wear limit, you can judge how many
miles are left on your guides before the
limit is exceeded. When doing this keep
one very important point in mind. As a
valve stem and guide wear , they do so at
an increasing rate. In other words, the
more they are worn, the faster they will
wear. A guide and stem that has 0 .003-in_
clearance may very well wear at twice the
rate as one having 0.002-in. clearance.
Consider the valve seats too. A valve
that is sloppy in its guide will wobble
when closing, resulting in the seat getting
beat out. Incidently, valve-guide wear is
higher in an engine used for stop-and-go
driving, so all things considered it takes
good old "horse sense" when determining
when it's time to redo your guides_
Valve-Guide Reconditioning-Valve guides
can be restored by several different meth-
ods ranging from one I consider to be less
than satisfactory to one that results in
better-than-original valve guides. In the
order of increasing desirability : knurling,
oversized valves and guide inserts.
Knurling the Guides-Knurling involves
rolling a pattern into the existing valve
guide which displaces material and raises
a pattern in the guide. This reduces the
effective diameter of the valve guide,
making it smaller than the original guide.
By effective diameter, I mean the diameter
inside the guide between the top of the
displaced material, or bumps on one side,
to the top of the bumps on the other side.
Because the valve guide is now effectively
smaller, the guide must be reamed to stan-
dard size . After knurling, the guide will
consist of a series of peaks and valleys
with the peaks smoothed off to act as the
guide surface.
The problem with knurling is it's the
cheap way out. And as is usually the case,
it's more cheap than effective. The reason
is the actual contact area between the
guide and valve stem is substantially re-
duced, causing a proportionate increase in
stem-to-guide contact pressure _ Conse-
quently, the guide wears faster. Therefore,
the oil consumption problem caused by
worn guides will not be cured,just delayed.
Oversize Valves-A fix which will restore
your guides and valves to like-new condi-
tion is to ream the guides oversize and
install valves with larger-than-standard
diameter stems. The obvious disadvantage
is you'll have t o purchase all new valves
since they generally wear about the same-
exhaust-valve guides wear a little more. A
set of new valves can cost up to $120-
not including the cost of reaming the
guides or the cost of a reamer t o do it
yourself. However, if some or most of
your valves are not reusable for one reason
or another, this is a good way t o go. Ford,
as well as replacement parts manufacturers
such as TRW, supply valves with oversize
stems.
Valve-Guide Inserts-Valve-guide inserts
can restore the guides t o as-good-as or
better-than original condition, depending
on the type used. Two basic materials are
used for guide inserts, cast iron and bronze.
Cast-iron inserts restore the guides t o
original condition. They are installed by
driving them into place after machining
the original guide t o a diameter equal t o
the OD of the insert, less a couple thou-
sandths of an inch interference fit to
lock the guide into place. After the guide
is installed it may or may not have t o be
reamed t o size, depending on the way the
insert is manufactured. Similar t o cast-iron
guides, bronze-silicone guides are much
more expensive as well as more durable-
normally good for well over 150,000
miles. They don't need valve-stem seals
and are relatively easy on valve stems as
well. Bronze-silicone guides install in the
same manner as cast-iron guides.
As for bronze inserts, they will give
better than original service. They come in
two styles, the thread-in type and the
press-in type. The thread-in type is similar
to a Heli-Coil@ replaceable thread except
when used for valve-guide applications,
it's made out of bronze with a thread
form only on its OD and not the ID be-
cause it's going t o function as a guide
rather than a thread. To install the thread-
type, a thread is tapped into the existing
guide bore. A sharp tap must be used for
doing this or the guide insert will not seat
completely after being installed, and the
insert will increasingly move up and down
with the valve and actually pump oil into
the combustion chamber. Consequently
this type of insert requires particular care
when installing. After tapping, the insert
is threaded into the guide and expanded
t o lock it into place so the valve and the
insert can't work sideways in the thread
and so the backside of the thread will be
in total contact with the cast-iron material
of the cylinder head for maximum valve
cooling. The guide is reamed t o complete
the installation.
The K-Line press-in bronze valve-
guide insert is installed in a similar man-
ner to the cast-iron type of insert. The
existing guide is reamed oversized and the
thin-wall-approximately 0.060-in. thick-
with a special driver. Once in place the
excess insert material is trimmed off.
The guide is expanded and reamed to size
using the original valve seat as a pilot to
prevent tilting the valve. This should be
done when reaming any type of guide.
VALVE INSPECTION AND
RECONDITIONING
After getting your valve guides in shape,
next on the list are the valves themselves.
You should have already checked them
for obvious damage such as burnt heads
and excessively worn tips, particularly if
your engine has rail-type rocker arms-
and even more so if you have a '66-112 t o
'67 289 or a '68 t o '68-112 302. Remem-
ber, they didn't use the hardened-steel
caps on the exhaust-valve tips so their
wear rate was hgher. Consequently, you
may have eliminated some valves from
the reusable list by now. The final check
is for valve-stem-diameter wear. Like
valve guides, valve stems also wear, but at
a lower rate.
Oversize Valves-A fix which will restore
your guides and valves to like-new condi-
tion is to ream the guides oversize and
install valves with larger-than-standard
diameter stems. The obvious disadvantage
is you'll have to purchase all new valves
since they generally wear about the same-
exhaust-valve guides wear a little more. A
set of new valves can cost up to $120-
not including the cost of reaming the
guides or the cost of a reamer to do it
yourself. However, if some or most of
your valves are not reusable for one reason
or another, this is a good way to go. Ford,
as well as replacement parts manufacturers
such as TRW, supply valves with oversize
stems.
Valve-Guide Inserts-Valve-guide inserts
can restore the guides to as-goad-as or
better-than original condition, depending
on the type used. Two basic materials are
used for guide inserts , cast iron and bronze.
Cast-iron inserts restore the guides to
original condition. They are installed by
driving them into place after machining
the original guide to a diameter equal to
the OD of the insert, less a couple thou-
sandths of an inch interference fit to
lock the guide into place. After the guide
is installed it mayor may not have to be
reamed to size, depending on the way the
insert is manufactured. Similar to cast-iron
guides, bronze-silicone guides are much
more expensive as well as more durable-
normally good for well over 150,000
miles. They don' t need valve-stem seals
and are relatively easy on valve stems as
well. Bronze-silicone guides install in the
same manner as cast-iron guides.
As for bronze inserts, they will give
better than original service. They come in
two styles , the thread-in type and the
press-in type. The thread-in type is similar
to a Heli-Coil replaceable thread except
when used for valve-guide applications,
it's made out of bronze with a thread
form only on its OD and not the ID be-
cause it's going to function as a guide
rather than a thread. To install the thread-
type, a thread is tapped into the existing
guide bore. A sharp tap must be used for
doing this or the guide insert will not seat
completely after being installed, and the
insert will increasingly move up and down
with the valve and actually pump oil into
the combustion chamber. Consequently
this type of insert requires particular care
when installing. After tapping, the insert
is threaded into the guide and expanded
to lock it into place so the valve and the
insert can't work sideways in the thread
and so the backside of the thread will be
in total contact with the cast-iron material
of the cylinder head for maximum valve
cooling. The guide is reamed to complete
the installation.
The K-Line press-in bronze valve-
guide insert is installed in a similar man-
ner to the cast-iron type of insert. The
existing guide is reamed oversized and the
thin-wall-approximately 0 .060-in. thick-
with a special driver. Once in place the
excess insert material is trimmed off.
The guide is expanded and reamed to size
using the original valve seat as a pilot to
prevent tilting the valve . This should be
done when reaming any type of guide.
VALVE INSPECTION AND
RECONDITIONING
After getting your valve guides in shape,
next on the list are the valves themselves.
You should have already checked them
When installing thinwall-type valveguide in
serts, the existing guides must be reamed over-
size to accept the inserts. An insert is placed on
the installing mandrel to prevent collapsing
during the installation. It is then lubricated
with anti -seize compound and driven in until it
is flush with the bottom of the guide. The
mandrel is removed and the excess trimmed off
even with the top of the guide boss.
for obvious damage such as burnt heads
and excessively worn tips, particularly if
your engine has rail-type rocker arms-
and even more so if you have a '66-1/2 to
'67289 or a '68 to '68-1/2 302. Remem-
ber , they didn't use the hardened-steel
caps on the exhaust-valve tips so their
wear ra te was higher. Consequen tly, you
may have eliminated some valves from
the reusable list by now. The final check
is for valve-stem-diameter wear. Like
valve guides, valve stems also wear, but at
a lower rate.
83
-..-. , .... n-wall valve-guide insert is in place and trim ....,,, .. ., . , , . . , , ...., place with an exb,..,ion Measuring .,.., ,.,... ..,,. with a I -i n. microm-
tool. Then the job is completed by reaming the guide t o size. The result is a better-than-new valve eter. Compare readings from worn and unworn
guide. portions of the valve stem. 0.0002-in. wear is
way below the 0.002-in. limit, so this valve can
be reused after reconditioning.
Measure Valves tern Wear-22 1 and 260
engines for 1962-1963 model years used
5116-in. valve stems, or more precisely,
minimum diameters of 0.3 10 in. for the
intakes and 0.309 in. for the exhausts. All
small blocks beginning in 1964 went to the
larger 11132-in. nominal stem diameter.
The minimums are 0.342 in, on intakes
and 0.3415 in. on exhausts. Use these
figures to check for wear, or you can
compare the worn and unworn portion of
each valve stem t o determine exact wear.
Maximum valve-stem wear usually occurs
at the tip end of a valve's guide-to-stem
contact surface. This area is easily recog-
nizable as the shiny portion of the valve
stem. There's a sharp division between it
and the unworn surface. Maximum valve
opening is represented by the end of the
shiny surface at the tip end of a valve.
This is where a valve stops in its guide at
full-open position.
To check valve-stem wear, you'll need
a I-in, micrometer. To determine stem
wear, measure the unworn diameter imme-
diately below this line. Subtract one figure
from the other t o determine stem wear.
Now that you have measured valve-stem
wear, the question is how much wear is
acceptable? Again, this depends on the
service you expect from your engine after
the rebuild, if and how you reconditioned
the valve guides and a myriad of other
questions that makes .arriving at an exact
wear figure too complex-and impossible.
However, concentrating on desired service
and the guides, should provide a satisfac-
tory answer.
First, taking both ends of the spectrum,
if valves with more than 0.002-in. stem
wear are installed in guides with more
than the 0.005-in. stem clearance limit or
in guides reconditioned by knurling, the
time spent on head work t o this point
could've been saved by leaving the head
alone. Knurling is a Band-Aid@ approach
instead of a true rebuilding method. It's
like wrapping tape around a radiator hose
when it fails, instead of replacing the hose.
The problem is not cured, it's just delayed.
On the other hand, new valves or used
ones with no more than 0.001-inch stem
wear installed in guides reconditioned
with bronze inserts should provide better-
than-original service. I suggest you install
guide inserts if your guides are worn ex-
cessively, preferably thin-wall bronze.
Install valves with no more than 0.002-in.
stem wear, and can be reconditioned at
their tip ends without removing too much
After a thin-wall valve-guide insert is in place and trimmed, it is locked into place with an expansion
tool. Then the job is completed by reaming the gUide to size. The result is a better-than-new valve
gUide.
Measure Valve-Stem Wear-221 and 260
engines for 1962-1963 model years used
5 /16-in. valve stems, or more precisely,
minimum diameters of 0.310 in. for the
intakes and 0.309 in. for the exhausts . All
small blocks beginning in 1964 went to the
larger 11/32-in. nominal stem diameter.
The minimums are 0.342 in. on intakes
and 0.3415 in. on exhausts. Use these
figures to check for wear, or you can
compare the worn and unworn portion of
each valve stem to determine exact wear.
Maximum valve-stem wear usually occurs
at the tip end of a valve's guide-to-stem
contact surface. This area is easily recog-
nizable as the shiny portion of the valve
stem. There's a sharp division between it
and the unworn surface. Maximum valve
opening is represented by the end of the
shiny surface at the tip end of a valve.
84
This is where a valve stops in its guide at
full-open position.
To check valve-stem wear , you'll need
a I-in. micrometer. To determine stem
wear, measure the unworn diameter imme-
diately below this line. Subtract one figure
from the other to determine stem wear.
Now that you have measured valve-stem
wear, the question is how much wear is
acceptable? Again, this depends on the
service you expect from your engine after
the rebuild, if and how you reconditioned
the valve guides and a myriad of other
questions that makes .arriving at an exact
wear figure too complex- and impossible.
However, concentrating on desired service
and the guides, should provide a satisfac-
tory answer.
First , taking both ends of the spectrum,
if valves with more than 0 .002-in. stem
Measuring valve-stem wear with a 1-in. microm-
eter. Compare readings from worn and unworn
portions of the valve stem. O.0002-in. wear is
way below the O.002-in. limit, so this valve can
be reused after reconditioning.
wear are installed in guides with more
than the 0.005-in. stem clearance limit or
in guides reconditioned by knurling, the
time spent on head work to this point
could've been saved by leaving the head
alone. Knurling is a Band-Aid approach
instead of a true rebuilding method . It's
like wrapping tape around a radiator hose
when it fails, instead of replacing the hose.
The problem is not cured, it's just delayed .
On the other hand, new valves or used
ones with no more than O.OOl-inch stem
wear installed in guides reconditioned
with bronze inserts should provide better-
than -original service. I suggest you install
guide inserts if your guides are worn ex-
cessively, preferably thin-wall bronze .
Install valves with no more than 0.002-in.
stem wear, and can be reconditioned at
their tip ends without removing too much
A valve being reconditioned. Tip is reground square to its stem-just enough to remove any signs of If, after grinding a valve, you find i t has less
wear. Face is ground to a 44' angle to create a positive seal with the 45' valve seat. than a 1132-in. (0.031 in.) margin, the valve
should be replaced. Otherwise you run the risk
of burning a valve.
material. Set this as your minimum when
deciding on which avenue t o take when
dealing with valve-stem and valve-guide
wear. It should give at least half the dura-
bility of new valves and guides.
Reconditioning Your Valves-Assuming
the majority of your valves checked out
OK, the next step is t o have them recon-
ditioned. Grind their faces and tips. The
face is the valve surface which contacts
the valve seat in t he cylinder head. A per-
fect seal must be made so t he combustion
chamber is sealed from t he intake and ex-
haust ports when the valve is closed by
the spring.
Valve faces are ground on a special
grinder made just for this purpose. The
valve is rotated in a collet-type chuck
at an angle of 44" t o a fast-turning grind-
ing wheel. As the valve face rotates against
the wheel's rotation, i t is also oscillated
across the face of t he grinding wheel.
Simultaneously the valve and stone are
bathed in cutting oil for cooling and t o
wash away the grindings. Enough face
material is removed only t o clean t he valve
face. If t oo much material is removed
t he valve's mar@ will be thinned exces-
sively and t he valve will have t o be dis-
carded. The margin of a valve is t he thick-
ness at its OD, at the outer edge of t he
face.
A valve with little or no margin will
approach being sharp at the out er edge of
its face and must be replaced because it's
highly susceptible t o being burned, par-
30" TOP CUT
45' SEAT I
/ I
45' valve-seat inside and outside diameters are established by 30' end 60' top and bottom cuts,
respectively. A seat's outside diameter should be approximately 1116-in. smaller than the outside
diameter of the valve's face. Top and bottom cuts also establish seat width.
ticularly if it's an exhaust valve. An ex-
haust valve should have at least a 0.030-in.
margin, or approximately 1/ 32 in. if you
like fractions. Because an intake valve
doesn't run as hot as an exhaust valve,
its margin can be as narrow as 0.01 5 in.-
approximately 1164411.
After the valve face is ground, the tip
is faced off, or ground squarely t o t he cen-
terline of the valve using another attach-
ment on t he valve-grinding machine. Next,
t he tip edge is beveled, or chamfered t o
eliminate t he sharp edge developed during
t he previous operation. Your valves should
now be as good as new and ready for
assembly i nt o the ' cylinder heads-when
they are ready. It's now unnecessary t o
keep your valves in order because all
traces of mating t o ot her components
are gone.
1/32"
MINIMUM
MARGIN
1
+
A valve being reconditioned. Tip is reground square to its stem-just enough to remove any signs of
wear. Face is ground to a 44 angle to create a positive seal with the 45 valve seat.
If, after grinding a valve, you find it has less
than a 1I32-in. (0.031 in.) margin, the valve
should be replaced. Otherwise you run the risk
of bu rning a valve.
material. Set this as your minimum when
deciding on which avenue to take when
dealing with valve-stem and valve-guide
wear. It should give at least half the dura-
bility of new valves and guides.
Reconditioning Your Valves-Assuming
the majority of your valves checked out
OK, the next step is to have them recon-
ditioned. Grind their faces and tips. The
face is the valve surface which contacts
the valve seat in the cylinder head. A per-
fect seal must be made so the combustion
chamber is sealed from the intake and ex-
haust ports when the valve is closed by
the spring.
Valve faces are ground on a special
grinder made just for this purpose. The
valve is rotated in a collet-type chuck
at an angle of 44 to a fast-turning grind-
ing wheel. As the valve face rotates against
the wheel's rotation, it is also oscillated
across the face of the grinding wheel.
Simultaneously the valve and stone are
bathed in cutting oil for cooling and to
wash away the grindings. Enough face
material is removed only to clean the valve
face. If too much material is removed
the valve's margin will be thinned exces-
sively and the valve will have to be dis-
carded. The margin of a valve is the thick-
ness at its OD, at the outer edge of the
face.
A valve with little or no margin will
approach being sharp at the outer edge of
its face and must be replaced because it's
highly susceptible to being burned, par-
30 TOP CUT
45 SEAT I
60 BOTTOM CUT
45 valve-seat inside and outside diameters are established by 30 and 60 top and bottom cuts,
respectively. A seat's outside diameter should be approximately 1/16-in. smaller than the outside
diameter of the valve's face. Top and bottom cuts also establish seat width.
ticularly if it's an exhaust valve. An ex-
haust valve should have at least a 0.030-in.
margin, or approximately 1/32 in. if you
like fractions . Because an intake valve
doesn't run as hot as an exhaust valve,
its margin can be as narrow as 0.015 in.-
approxima tely 1 164-in .
After the valve face is ground, the tip
is faced off, or ground squarely to the cen-
terline of the valve using another attach-
ment on the valve-grinding machine. Next,
the tip edge is beveled, or chamfered to
eliminate the sharp edge developed during
the previous operation. Your valves should
now be as good as new and ready for
assembly into the ' cylinder heads-when
they are ready. It's now unnecessary to
keep your valves in order because all
traces of mating to other components
are gone.
85
Ell. . r . ~
Grindin! valve seats and the tools nel t o do i t: Three well dressed grinding stones with angles of After a valve seat is ground, its concentricity or
30, 45 and 60, a pair of dividers for measuring seat diameter, a ruler for setting the dividers and runout in relationship to the valve guide should
measuring seat width and some blue dye so the seat will show up. Dark portions (arrows) are the 45' be checked with a gauge such as this. Photo
valve seats. courtesy Ford.
VALVESEAT RECONDITIONING
Valve seats are reconditioned just like
the valves, by grinding. Equipment used
for doing this is special, expensive and
requires some degree of skill and expe-
rience, so valve-seat grinding is a job for
the specialist: Also, it's a job which is a
necessary part of every rebuild. This is
particularly true for heads having recon-
ditioned valve guides because the valve
seats will not be concenm'c with the new
guides-they won't have the same centers.
Consequently, even though a valve seat
may be in good condition, the guide won't
let the valve seat evenly when closed. It
will be held off-center in the seat and can-
- not seal, nor can it fully close. Because a
valve seat is ground using a mandrel lo-
cated in the valve guide,seat concentricity
will be corrected.
Grinding the Seats-Valve seats are ground
using manual, electric- or air-powered
gi rders alternating between threegrinding Lapping valves using lapping compound between the valve face and seat. Valve is inserted in its guide,
stones with angles of 30, 45" and 60".
the lapping tool is attached to the head of the valve, then the valve is rotated back-and-forth while
power grinders are best because they pro-
being held lightly against its seat. Consider this operation unnecessary because i t won't correct an
incorrectly ground valve or seat and it's not necessary i f they are done right. I t will, however show
vide the most accurate seat. The most
up a bad valve job real quick.
important angle, 4sobi s the actual valve-
seat angle. If this 45 figure strikes you
wrong, it's because the valves were ground
to a 44" angle rather than 45". This one-
degree difference provides an edge-contact
at the outer periphery of the valve face so valve seat, but more importantly, the of dividers, Dykem-type metal bluing, a
hot combustion gases will be sealed the valve-seat width. After the. top cut is scale for setting the dividers for measuring
first time the valve closes. Leakage at made, the valve seat is narrowed by seat OD and directly measuringvalve-seat
either valve due to poor seating can warp taking more bottom cut. width and a special dial indicator for
the valve, and burn the valve face and seat. Seat widths of 0.060-0.080 in. are checking valve-seat concentricity. The
The other two, 30' and 60, are the used for all small-block valves. For cooling bluing assists in distinguishing the valve-
top cut and the bottom cut, resp~ctively. reasons, exhaust-valve seats are generally seat edges from the top and bottom cuts.
The top cut is on the combustion-chamber ground t o the high side of the range It is applied to the seat prior t o making
side of the valve seat. It trues up and (wider) t o provide additional valve-to- these cuts. Consequently, the seat shows
establishes the outside diameter of the seat contact to ensure valve-to-seat heat up as a blue ring contrasted against the
valve seat. Valve-seat OD should be transfer and t o reduce "beating out." brightly finished top and bottom cuts
ground approximately 1116-in. smaller Tools which should be on hand to making the seat easier to see and measure.
diameter than the valve OD. The bottom assist in the grinding process, other than Hand-Lapping Valves-Lapping valves in
cut 60" angle is on the port side of the the actual grinding equipment, are a set is nothing more than grinding a valve face
~ ~ ,
""
,_.,....J . .
~ --
Grinding valve seats and the tools needed to do it: Three well dressed grinding stones with angles of
30
0
, 45 and 60
0
, a pair of dividers for measuring seat diameter, a ruler for setting the dividers and
measuring seat width and some blue dye so the seat will show up. Dark portions (arrows) are the 45
valve seats.
After a valve seat is ground, its concentricity or
runout in relationship to the valve guide should
be checked with a gauge such as this. Photo
courtesy Ford.
VALVE-SEAT RECONDITIONING
Valve seats are reconditioned just like
the valves, by grinding. Equipment used
for doing this is special, expensive and
requires some degree of skill and expe-
rience, so valve-seat grinding is a job for
the specialist. Also , it's a job which is a
necessary part of every rebuild . This is
particularly true for heads having recon-
ditioned valve guides because the valve
seats will not be concentric with the new
guides-they won't have the same centers.
Consequently, even though a valve seat
may be in good condition, the guide won't
let the valve seat evenly when closed. It
will be held off-center in the seat and can-
not seal, nor can it fully close. Because a
valve seat is ground using a mandrel lo-
cated in the valve guide, seat concentricity
will be corrected.
Grinding the Seats-Valve seats are ground
using manual, electric- or air-powered
grinders alternating between three grinding
stones with angles of 30, 45 and 60 .
Power grinders are best because they pro-
vide the most accurate seat. The most
important angle, 45, is the actual valve-
seat angle . If this 45 figure st rikes you
wrong, it's because the valves were ground
to a 44 angle rather than 45. This one-
degree difference provides an edge-contact
at the outer periphery of the valve face so
hot combustion gases wiU be sealed the
first time the valve closes . Leakage at
either valve due to poor seating can warp
the valve, and burn the valve face and seat.
The other two, 30 and 60 , are the
top cut and the bottom cut, resp-ectively .
The top cu t is on the combustion-chamber
side of the valve seat. It trues up and
establishes the outside diameter of the
valve seat. Valve-seat OD should be
ground approximately 1/16-in . smaller
diameter than the valve OD. The bottom
cut 60 angle is on the port side of the
86
Lapping valves using lapping compound between the valve face and seat. Valve is inserted in its guide,
the lapping tool is attached to the head of the valve, then the valve is rotated back-and-forth while
being held lightly against its seat. Consider this operation unnecessary because It won't correct an
incorrectly ground valve or seat and it's not necessary if they are done right. It will. however show
up a bad valve job real quick.
valve seat, but more importantly, the
valve-seat width . After the top cut is
made, the valve seat is narrowed by
taking more bottom cut.
Seat widths of 0.060-0.080 in. are
used for all small-block valves. For cooling
reasons, exhaust-valve seats are generally
ground to the high side of the range
(wider) to provide additional valve-to-
seat contact to ensure valve-to-seat heat
transfer and to reduce "beating au t."
Tools which should be on hand to
assist in the grinding process, other than
the actual grinding equipment, are a set
of dividers, Dykem-type metal bluing, a
scale for setting the dividers for measuring
seat OD and directly measuring valve-seat
width and a special dial indicator for
checking valve-seat concentricity. The
bluing assists in distinguishing the valve-
seat edges from the top and bottom cuts .
It is applied to the seat prior to making
these cuts. Consequently, the seat shows
up as a blue ring contrasted against the
brightly finished top and bottom cuts
making the seat easier to see and measure.
Hand-Lapping Valves-Lapping valves in
is nothing more than grinding a valve face
Gray band (arrow) on the lapped valve shows
the valve-face-to-seat contact area.
and its seat- together. Lapping paste is
applied t o the valve face, then the valve is
rotated back-and-forth by hand in a circu-
lar motion while simultaneously applying
a light pressure t o the head of the valve.
I'm mentioning valve lapping in case
you are aware of the process and think it
is necessarv for valve sealine. Generallv
speaking, i t a valve face and iE seat aren't
ground correctly, lapping won't fix the
problem, and if they are done right.
iapping isn't necessary for proper valve
seating and sealing. So don't waste your
time with lapping. A rebuilder with a
good reputation for engine work that per-
forms and lasts is your best guarantee.
Do They Seal?-It would be nice t o know
if your valves are going t o seal before in-
stalling the heads on your engine. This is
so you can do something about it now if
there is a problem. To determine if your
valves are sealing OK you'll first have to
assemble the valves in .the heads. Either
do it temporarily now, then disassemble
the heads for checking and setting up the
valve springs, or complete the valve-spring
checking and setting-up as outlined in the
next few pages, then assemble the valves
in the heads and check them.
With the valves in place, position the
heads upside down on your bench so the
head-gasket surface is level. Using kerosene,
fill each combustion chamber and check
inside the ports for leaks. If you don't
see any leaks you can consider the valves
OK, otherwise you'll have to confer with
your rebuilder to determine what the
sealing problem is, then have it corrected.
- - - . ., 1
I
Valves should be installed on the seat they were lapped in on. Keep them in order as I'm doing here
with a yard stick.
Checking a valve spring for squareness with a Checking spring load at installed height.
carpenter's framing square. I t should lean Shimming is done t o bring spring load within
no more than 1/16 in. at the top (arrow). specification, then the spring is checked at open
height to ensure it doesn't go solid. You should
be able to see daylight between all the coils at
open height.
VALVE SPRINCS-
INSPECTION AND INSTALLATION
After your heads and valves have been
completely reconditioned, the valve
springs must be inspected. A valve-spring
tester helps, but it's not absolutely neces-
sary. It's helpful to understand what's
involved in valve-spring testing. You
should become familiar with valve-spring
terms and the importance of maintaining
certain standards. The terms are; spring
rate, free height, load at installed height,
load at open height and solid height.
Spring Rate-Spring rate is not one of the
commonly listed valve-spring specifica-
tions as such, but relates directly t o most
of the other specifications. Also, it's one
of the basic terms necessary to describe
a coil spring's mechanical properties.
Spring rate is the load exerted by a
spring when compressed a given amount,
usually expressed as so many pounds per
inch of deflection. When a spring is
compressed some- amount, it requires a
given amount of force to do so. Typical
valve-spring rates vary between 200 and
400 pounds per inch. Spring rates are
usually indicative of the RPM range of
the engine they are installed in. For ex-
ample, the conventional small-block Ford
valve-spring rate is approximately 250
lb./in., whereas the higher-rewing HP289
spring rate exceeds 350 lb./in, to control
the additional valve-train inertia. The
higher spring capacity is required just t o
close the valves, or keep them fromfloat-
ing when the engine is operated in the
high RPM ranges. If a valve spring loses its
rate, or resiliency, it is no longer capable
of closing its valve at or near maximum
rated RPM.
Free Height-Free height or length of a
valve spring is its unloaded height or
length. If a spring's free height is too
long or too short, the load exerted by the
spring as installed in an engine will be off
Gray band (arrow) on the lapped valve shows
the valve-face-to-seat contact area.
and its seat together. Lapping paste is
applied to the valve face, then the valve is
rotated back-and-forth by hand in a circu-
lar motion while simultaneously applying
a light pressure to the head of the valve.
I'm mentioning valve lapping in case
you are aware of the process and think it
is necessary for valve sealing. Generally
speaking, if a valve face and its seat aren't
ground correctly, lapping won't fix the
problem, and if they are done right,
lapping isn't necessary for proper valve
seating and sealing. So don't waste your
time with lapping. A rebuilder with a
good reputation for engine work that per-
forms and lasts is your best guarantee_
Do They Seal?-It would be nice to know
if your valves are going to seal before in-
stalling the heads on your engine. This is
so you can do something about it now if
there is a problem. To determine if your
valves are sealing OK you'll first have to
assemble the valves in .the heads. Either
do it temporarily now, then disassemble
the heads for checking and setting up the
valve springs, or complete the valve-spring
checking and setting-up as outlined in the
next few pages , then assemble the valves
in the heads and check them.
With the valves in place , position the
heads upside down on your bench so the
head-gasket surface is level. Using kerosene,
fill each combustion chamber and check
inside the ports for leaks. If you don't
see any leaks you can consider the valves
OK, otherwise you'll have to confer with
your rebuilder to determine what the
sealing problem is, then have it corrected .
Valves should be installed on the seat they were lapped in on. Keep them in order as I'm doing here
with a yard stick.
Checking a valve spring for squareness with a
carpenter's framing square_ It should lean
no more than 1/16 in. at the top (arrow).
VALVE SPRINGS-
INSPECTION AND INSTALLATION
After your heads and valves have been
completely reconditioned , the valve
springs must be inspected . A valve-spring
tester helps, but it's not absolutely neces-
sary. It's helpful to understand what's
involved in valve-spring testing. You
should become familiar with valve-spring
terms and the importance of maintaining
certain standards. The terms are; spring
rate, free height, load at installed height,
load at open height and solid height.
Spring Rate-Spring rate is not one of the
commonly listed valve-spring specifica-
tions as such, but relates directly to most
of the other specifications . Also, it 's one
of the basic terms necessary to describe
a coil spring's mechanical properties_
Spring rate is the load exerted by a
spring when compressed a given amount,
usually expressed as so many pounds per
inch of deflection . When a spring is
Checking spring load at installed height.
Shimming is done to bring spring load within
specification, then the spring is checked at open
height to ensure it doesn't go solid. You should
be able to see daylight between all the coils at
open height_
compressed some amount, it requires a
given amount of force to do so. Typical
valve-spring rates vary between 200 and
400 pounds per inch. Spring rates are
usually indicative of the RPM range of
the engine they are installed in . For ex-
ample , the conventional small-block Ford
valve-spring rate is approximately 250
lb .lin ., whereas the higher-revving HP289
spring rate exceeds 350 lb./in. to control
the additional valve-train inertia. The
higher spring capacity is required just to
close the valves, or keep them from /loat-
ing when the engine is operated in the
high RPM ranges. If a valve spring loses its
rate , or resiliency , it is no longer capable
of closing its valve at or near maximum
rated RPM.
Free Height-Free height or length of a
valve spring is its unloaded height or
length . If a spring's free height is too
long or too short, the load exerted by the
spring as installed in an engine will be off
87
because it will be compressed more or less
by the spring retainer. Therefore,
knowing what spring rate is in addition to
free height gives you a clue as t o why a
spring does or doesn't meet its speci-
fications.
Load at Installed Height-A spring's load
at its installed height is a common spring
specification-installed height is spring
height as installed in the cylinder head;
measured with the valve closed. This is
the distance from the cylinder-head
spring seat to the underside of the spring
retainer. A typical load-at-installed height
specification is 70-80 pounds @ 1.750
in. When compressed to a height of 1.750
in, from its free height, the load required
t o compress this spring when it is new
should be between 70 and 80 lbs. The
absolute minimum limit is 10% less than
the minimum standard limit, or 61 lbs.
in this case. If a spring does not exceed or
at least meet the minimum it should be
replaced. If your engine will be operated
at its upper RPM limit or is an HP 289 or
Boss 302, you should restrict valve-spring
load to the minimum standard limit.
Load at Open Height-Another common-
ly listed specification is a spring's com-
pressed load when its valve is fully open.
A typical specification is 160-175
Ibs. @ 1.400 in. Just as with the installed-
height load, a spring must fall within the
10% minimum-load limit or be replaced.
In this case the minimum is 144 lbs.
Again, consider how your engine will be
operated when checking the springs.
Solid Height-Solid height describes the
height of a coil spring when it is totally
compressed to the point where each coil
actually touches the adjacent coil. Coil
springs, should never be compressed to
this height in normal service. If a valve
spring were to be compressed to its solid
height prior to the valve opening fully,
the load on the valve train would theo-
retically approach infinity. But before
this could happen the weakest com-
ponent in the valve train will fail-
something bends or breaks. The usual
result is a bent pushrod.
Squareness- Valve-spring squareness is
how straight a spring stands on a flat
surface, or how much it tilts. It is de-
sirable for a valve spring to be square so
it loads the spring retainer evenly around
its full circumference. Uneven retainer
loading creates additional valve-stem and
guide side loading with a corresponding
increase in stem and guide wear-some-
thing you should minimize. Limit out-of-
squareness to 1/16 in. measured at the
top of the spring to a vertical surface.
Checking the Springs-Of the spring
characteristics just covered the ones
which should be checked are square-
ness and the installed and open spring
loads, plus making sure the spring doesn't
Checking installed spring height with the depth
spring pad on the head t o the underside of the
difference.
reach its solid position in the full-open
valve position. A flat surface, square and
something to measure with is all that's
needed to check spring squareness. When
you're all set up, rotate the spring you're
checking against the square to determine
its maximum tilt, then measure it. If the
gap at the top of the spring exceeds 1116-
in., replace it. As for the last two checks,
a valve-spring tester is required. Two
types of testers are normally used, but
both do the same thing. They permit
manual compression of a spring to the
opened and installed heights so the spring's
loads at these heights can be read. The
question is, "How do I check for a spring's
loads if I don't have a spring tester?"
The answer is simple, you don't!
Fortunately, a simple method can be
used to determine if a spring may be
faulty. That is to compare its free height
t o that originally specified. The reason
this works is if a spring has been fatigued
or was overheated, usually from excessive
engine temperatures, the spring will sag,
or collapse some amount. This will be
reflected in a spring's free height. The
result of a sagged spring will be a reduc-
tion in spring load in the installed and
open positions. Also, when a spring is
removed from its cylinder head, it will
not return to its original, or specified free
height. Use the valve-spring chart to de-
termine what the free height of your
springs should be, then measure them.
Generally a valve spring should be within
0.100 inch of the specified height. Other-
gauge end of a vernier caliper. Measure from the
I spring retainer. Add spring shims to make up the
wise they should be checked with a spring
tester t o make sure they will provide
adequate seated and open pressures.
make sure they will provide adequate
seated and open pressures.
Valve Springs-Replace or Not to Re-
place?-Generally, I replace any spring
which is 118-in. shorter than the speci-
fied free height, regardless of the planned
engine service. A valve spring that's
1116-in. shorter can be installed in an
engine that's to be used for light service.
This decision should be based on what
type of service your engine will be used
for and how far off your springs are. So,
if it's going to be used for puttering
around town, you probably can get away
with marginal springs. This is not the case
though if the engine is to be operated at
or near its peak RPM. This being the
case, the springs will get progressively
weaker and those valves with weak
springs will float at a lower engne RPM
than the engine may be able to turn
otherwise.
If your engine is to be used for severe
service, the springs should be tested on a
spring tester t o determine if they can be
corrected by inserting a shim under them
if any have a short free height. In this
use, the shim-a special flat washer-is
placed between the spring and the cylin-
der head so the spring will be compressed
more to restore the spring's installed and
open loads. However, if not used care-
fully, shims can cause severe valve-train
damage by making the spring reach its
because it will be compressed more or less
by the spring retainer. Therefore,
knowing what spring rate is in addition to
free height gives you a clue as to why a
spring does or doesn't meet its speci -
fications.
Load at InstaUed Height-A spring's load
at its installed height is a common spring
specification-installed height is spring
height as installed in the cylinder head;
measured with the valve closed. This is
the distance from the cylinder-head
spring seat to the underside of the spring
retainer. A typicalload-at-installed height
specification is 70-80 pounds @ 1.750
in . When compressed to a height of 1.750
in. from its free height, the load required
to compress this spring when it is new
should be between 70 and 80 Ibs . The
absolute minimum limit is 10% less than
the minimum standard limit, or 61 Ibs.
in this case . If a spring does not exceed or
at least meet the minimum it should be
replaced. If your engine will be operated
at its upper RPM limit or is an HP 289 or
Boss 302, you should restrict valve-spring
load to the minimum standard limit.
Load at Open Height-Another common-
ly listed specification is a spring's com-
pressed load when its valve is fully open .
A typical specification is 160-175
Ibs. @ 1.400 in. Just as with the installed-
height load, a spring must fall within the
10% minimum-load limit or be replaced.
In this case the minimum is 144 Ibs.
Again, consider how your engine will be
operated when checking the springs.
Solid Height - Solid height describes the
height of a coil spring when it is totally
compressed to the point where each coil
actually touches the adjacent coil. Coil
springs should never be compressed to
this height in normal service. If a valve
spring were to be compressed to its solid
heigh t prior to the valve opening fully,
the load on the valve train would theo-
retically approach infinity. But before
this could happen the weakest com-
ponent in the valve train will fail -
something bends or breaks. The usual
result is a bent push rod .
Squareness- Valve-spring squareness is
how straight a spring stands on a flat
surface, or how much it tilts . It is de-
sirable for a valve spring to be square so
it loads the spring retainer evenly around
its full circumference. Uneven retainer
loading creates additional valve-stem and
guide side loading with a corresponding
increase in stem and guide wear-some-
thing you should minimize. Limit out-of-
squareness to 1/16 in . measu red at the
top of the spring to a vertical surface .
Checking the Springs-Of the spring
characteristics just covered the ones
which should be checked are square-
ness and the installed and open spring
loads , plus making sure the spring doesn't
88
Checking installed spring height with the depth-gauge end of a vernier caliper. Measure from the
spring pad on the head to the underside of the spring retainer. Add spring shims to make up the
difference.
reach its solid position in the full-open
valve position. A flat surface, square and
something to measure with is all that's
needed to check spring squareness. When
you're all set up, rotate the spring you're
checking against the square to determine
its maximum tilt, then measure it. If the
gap at the top of the spring exceeds 1/16-
in ., replace it. As for the last two checks ,
a valve-spring tester is required . Two
types of testers are normally used , but
both do the same thing. They permit
manual compression of a spring to the
opened and installed heights so the spring's
loads at these heights can be read. The
question is, "How do I check for a spring's
loads if I don't have a spring tester?"
The answer is simple, you don't'
Fortunately , a simple method can be
used to determine if a spring may be
faulty . That is to compare its free height
to that originally specified. The reason
this works is if a spring has been fatigued
or was overheated, usually from excessive
engine temperatures, the spring will sag,
or collapse some amount. This will be
reflected in a spring's free height. The
result of a sagged spring will be a reduc-
tion in spring load in the installed and
open positions. Also, when a spring is
removed from its cylinder head, it will
not return to its original, or specified free
height. Use the valve-spring chart to de-
termine what the free height of your
springs should be, then measure them.
Generally a valve spring should be within
0.100 inch of the specified heigh t. Other-
wise they should be checked with a spring
tester to make sure they will provide
adequate seated and open pressures.
make sure they will provide adequate
seated and open pressures.
Valve Springs-Replace or Not to Re-
place? -Generally, I replace any spring
which is 1/8-in. shorter than the speci-
fied free height, regardless of the planned
engine service . A valve spring that's
1 /16-in. shorter can be installed in an
engine that's to be used for light service.
This decision should be based on what
type of service your engine will be used
for and how far off your springs are. So,
if it's going to be used for puttering
around town , you probably can get away
with marginal springs. This is not the case
though if the engine is to be operated at
or near its peak RPM. This being the
case, the springs will get progressively
weaker and those valves with weak
springs will float at a lower engine RPM
than the engine may be able to turn
otherwise .
If your engine is to be used for severe
service, the springs should be tested on a
spring tester to determine if they can be
corrected by inserting a shim under them
if any have a short free height. In this
use, the shim- a special flat washer-is
placed between the spring and the cylin-
der head so the spring will be compressed
more to restore the spring's installed and
open loads. However, if not used care-
fully, shims can cause severe valve-train
damage by making the spring reach its
VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
If specifications are different for intake- and exhaust-valve springs, intake-spring will be shown first (intakelexhaust).
# Used with a damper spring.
H P289
302
Boss 302
351W
Use this chart for reference when checking your springs.
solid height before its valve is fully
opened. Also, another problem when
using valve-spring shims is a spring is
designed t o be compressed a certain
amount continuously. This amount is t he
difference between its free height and
open height. If it's compressed more t han
this amount t he spring will be over-
stressed, or overloaded resulting in an
over-worked, or fatigued spring. The spring
will quickly lose its load-producing capa-
city. So if you have a questionable spring,
replace it rather than shimming i t , even
though a new spring costs five times more
than a shim. If you do shim some of your
springs, make sure you at t ach t he shim t o
its spring with some wire, string or what-
ever. If they get mixed up you'll have t o
retrace your steps and recheck t hem.
#63-67
68.69%
69%-72
73-75%
75%-78
#69-70
#69-70%
70%-76
77-78
ASSEMBLE YOUR CYLLNDER HEADS
Now that all your cylinder-head parts
have been inspected and/or reconditioned,
you can get them all back together
again-sort of like Humpty Dumpt y. Ex-
cept in this case you won' t need any of
the King's Horses or the King's Men, just
a valve-spring compressor and a ruler,
plus some valve-spring shims-may be.
Yes, you may still have t o install shims
even though you haven't had t o up t o this
point.
Valve-Spring Installed Height-One of the
valve-spring loads you checked was t he
spring's installed height, or t he height t he
valve spring should be with the valve
closed and t he spring and i t s valve, re-
tainer and shimls installed. Shims are
included in t he spring's installed height
if used t o correct spring free height. Make
sure every spring is at its correct installed
height, otherwise its valve will not be
loaded correctly.
The position of a valve seat determines
t he amount the valve stem will project
out t he t op of t he guide when t he valve is
closed. It also follows t hat t he distance
from t he cylinder-head spring seat, or
spring pad t o t he underside of the valve-
spring retainer, as installed on t he valve,
is also determined by t he valve seat.
As originally manufactured, this dis-
tance, or pad-to-retainer dimension, coin-
cides with the valve-spring installed height.
However, because material is removed
from each valve face and seat during t he
grinding process, this distance is increased
and consequently exceeds the installed
spring height. If your valve seats were in
good condition, only a small amount of
material should've been removed t o clean
them up. Therefore, the spring's installed
height should not have been affected t o
any great degree. On the other hand, if
more material was removed, t he spring's
installed height and load could be
changed considerably, so they should be
checked.
Because setting and checking installed
spring height is best done as part of t he
cylinder-head assembly process, let's get
on with putting your heads together and
doing t he height checks concurrently.
1.77
1 ,66
1.69
1.6911.60
1.6911.60
1.82
1.79
1.79
1.7911.78
Al l the components that make up a valve and
spring installation. Damper spring is unique to
the HP289, Boss 302 and early 351W engines.
Separate spring seat is only used in the Boss
302. A two-piece spring retainer is shown.
Photo courtesy Ford.
83-89
71-79
76-84
76-84
76-84
88-96
79-87
71-79
71 -79174.82
75
64
69
69
69
80
71
65
65/67
1.32
1.27
1.31
1.3111.22
1.3111.20
1.32
1.34
1 .34
1.3411.36
234-260
174-1 93
190-210
190-210
190-210
299-331
204-226
190-210
190-210
194-214
21 1
157
171
171
171
270
184
171
17111 75
2.02
1.93
1 .94
1.9411.85
1.9411.87
2.03
2.07
2.06
2.0612.04
1.21
1.23
1.2311.16
1.2311.14
1 .27
1 .27
1.24
1.2411.29
Red
Black or Grey
Lt. Red
Lt . Red1
Purple
Lt . Red1
Yellow
4 Blue
Stripes
Lt. Blue
2 Green
Stripes
2 Green
Stripes1
Yellow
VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
INSTALLED OPEN
Min. Load Min . Load Free Length Solid Height
Engine Year Height (in.) Load (lbs.) Obs.) Height (in.) Load (lbs.) (ibs.) (in.) (in.) Color Code
221,260 62-63 1.77 5763 51 1.38 161-178 145 2.15 Lt. Brown
260, 289 63-66)1, 1.78 7179 65 1.39 160-178 145 2.09 1.30 Blue or Grey
289 66)1,-67)1, 1.64 5763 52 1.25 158-174 143 1.86 1.11 Black or Grey
67)1,-68 1.66 7179 64 1.27 174-192 157 1.93 1.21 Black or Grey
HP289 #63-67 1.77 8389 75 1.32 234260 211 2.02 Red
302 68-69)1, 1.66 7179 64 1.27 174-193 157 1.93 1.21 Black or Grey
69)1,-72 1.69 7684 69 1.31 190-210 171 1.94 1.23 Lt . Red
73-75)1, 1.69/1.60 76-84 69 1.31/1.22 190210 171 1.94/1.85 1.23/1 .16 Lt . Red/
Purple
75 )1,-78 1.69/1 .60 76-84 69 1.31 /1 .20 190210 171 1.94/1.87 1.23/1.14 Lt. Red/
Yellow
Boss 302 #69-70 1.82 8896 80 1.32 299-331 270 2.03 1.27 4 Blue
Stripes
351W #69-70)1, 1.79 7987 71 1.34 204226 184 2.07 1.27 Lt . Blue
70)1,-76 1.79 71 79 65 1.34 190210 171 2.06. 1.24 2 Green
Stripes
77-78 1.79/1.78 71 79/74-82 65/67 1.34/1 .36 190-210 171/175 2.06/2 .04 1.24/1 .29 2 Green
194-214 Stripes/
Yellow
If specifications are different for intake and exhaust-valve springs , intake-spring will be shown first (intake/e xha ust).
II Used with a damper spring.
solid height before its valve is fully
opened. Also, another problem when
using valve-spring shims is a spring is
designed to be compressed a certain
amoun t continuously. This amount is the
difference between its free height and
open height . If it's compressed more than
this amount the spring will be over-
stressed, or overloaded reSUlting in an
over-worked, or fatigued spring. The spring
will quickly lose its load-producing capa-
city. So if you have a questionable spring,
replace it rather than shimming it, even
though a new spring costs five times more
than a shim. If you do shim some of your
springs, make sure you attach the shim to
its spring with some wire, st ring or what-
ever. If they get mixed up you'll have to
retrace your steps and recheck them.
ASSEMBLE YOUR CYLINDER HEADS
Now that all your cylinder-head parts
have been inspected and/or reconditioned,
you can get them all back together
again-sort of like Humpty Dumpty. Ex-
cept in this case you won't need any of
the King's Horses or the King's Men, just
a valve-spring compressor and a ruler,
plus some valve-spring shims-maybe .
Yes, you may still have to install shims
even though you haven 't had to up to this
point.
Valve-Spring Installed Height -One of the
valve-spring loads you checked was the
spring's installed height , or the height the
valve spring should be with the valve
Use this chart for reference when checking your springs .
closed and the spring and its valve , re-
tainer and shim/s installed . Shims are
included in the spring's installed height
if used to correct spn'ng free height . Make
sure every spring is at its correct installed
height, otherwise its valve will not be
loaded correctly.
The position of a valve seat determines
the amount the valve stem will project
out the top of the guide when the valve is
closed. It also follows t hat the distance
from the cylinder-head spring seat, or
spring pad to the underside of the valve-
spri ng retainer, as installed on the valve,
is also determined by the valve seat.
As originally manufactured, this dis-
tance, or pad-to-retainer dimension, coin-
cides with the valve-spring inst alled height.
However, because material is removed
from each valve face and seat during the
grinding process, this distance is increased
and consequen tJy exceeds the installed
spring height . If your valve seats were in
good condition, only a small amount of
material should've been removed to clean
them up. Therefore, the spring's installed
heigh t should not have been affected to
any great degree. On the other hand, if
more material was removed, the spring's
installed height and load could be
changed considerably, so they should be
checked .
Because setting and checking installed
spring height is best done as part of the
cylinder-head assembly process, let's get
on with putting your heads together and
doing the height checks concurrently .
. P gl KEEPER .'. .
r n RETAINER
",gr .' . '
RETAINE'R .' .
.'

SPRING
SPRING SEAT
(BOSS302)
VALVE
All the components that make up a valve and
spring installation. Damper spring is unique to
the HP289, Boss 302 and early 351W engines.
Separate spring seat is only used in the Boss
302. A two-piece spring retainer is shown.
Photo courtesy Ford.
89
After lubricating the valve stem, insert the valv
installing the seal. You can now loose-assemble 1
the spring and retainer. With a compressor, pull
install the keepers. Release the compressor and
position.
Ie in its guide. Hold i t ill ~ I I W I;luaro puwrlurl wllmle
the spring seat-if you have a Boss 302-any shims,
the spring and retainer down far enough so you can
check t o make sure the retainers are locked into
Have your valves ready to be installed in
the heads in order and the springs with
their shims, if you used any to correct
valve-spring free height.
Installed spring height can be checked
by two methods. The first is by simply
inserting the valve in the head, then as-
sembling the retainer and keepers on the
valve stem without the spring, shims or
valve-stem seal. The retainer is lifted up
to hold the valve in its closed position-it
also keeps the retainer and keepers from
falling down the stem-while the seat-to-
retainer dimension is measured. To get an
accurate reading, the retainer must be
lifted up firmly to ensure the valve is
against its seat and the retainer and
keepers are in place. A snap-gauge and
micrometers will give you the most
accurate reading when measuring this
dimension, however you can do pretty
well using a six-inch scale if you have
sharp eyes. One trick you can use is to
cut, then file a short section of welding
rod or heavy wire to the specified in-
stalled height of the spring. You can ac-
curately check the rod length using a
micrometer. This will give you an accu-
rate gauge which when placed between
the spring seat and the spring retainer will
show a gap the same thickness of the
shim if one is required. The shim that fits
between the end of the rod and the retainer
or the spring seat is the one to use.
If you've used the measuring method
to determine shim thickness, after you've
arrived at a shim-pad-to-retainer figure,
subtract the installed spring height from
it and you have the shim thickness re-
quired t o provide the correct installed
height. Therefore:
Shim thickness
= spring-to-retainer dimension
- installed spring height
Shims come in thicknesses of 0.01 5,
0.030 and 0.060 in. They can be stacked
in varying combinations so you'll end up
with the right overall thickness.
The second method of checking seat-
to-retainer distance varies only in that
you install the spring too. This means
you'll have to use the spring compressor
t o do so, but it does ensure the reading
will be accurate. The valve will be closed
and the retainer and keepers will be fully
seated. If this method is used you won't
be able to use a snap gauge. You won't
be able to get under the spring retainer
because the spring is there. One measur-
ing device that does work well here is a
pair of vernier-type calipers. You can also
use your less-accurate six-inch scale. Mea-
sure the actual spring height in this case
by measuring from the spring pad t o the
top of the spring. Regardless of the
method used, the way of arriving at shim
Using a brass punch LLJ III-L.~I 111- tleeze plugs.
Some silicone sealer around its edge will ensure
an immediate seal.
thickness is the same-subtract specified
installed spring height from the dimen-
sion you just measured. If the variation
is less than 0.015 in., you don't need a
shim.
When checking installed spring heights,
keep a record of the shims and their
location as you go along. Also, line up
the valves with their respective shims,
springs, retainers, keepers and seals so
they'll be organized for assembly time.
Remember, you can mix up seals, retain-
ers and keepers, but the springs, shims
and valves must be installed in the posi-
tion in which they were checked.
After finishing the installed-height
check use your list t o purchase the neces-
sary shims. While you're at it, pick up
four freeze plugs if you haven't done so
already. Youll need the 1-1 12-in. diame-
ter cup-type plug-Ford D7AZ-6026-A.
You should now have all the parts neces-
sary t o assemble your cylinder heads.
Before assembling your heads make
sure all the parts are clean. Using your
shim list, organize the shims you just pur-
chased so they'll be installed in the right
location when it comes time to install
them. One thing that's handy to know
when looking for a particular thickness
shim is they are color-coded according to
their thickness. For example, V.S.I. uses
the following colors: Black, 0.015 in.;
silver, 0.030 in.; gold, 0.060 in
After lubricating the valve stem, insert the valve in its guide. Hold it in the closed position while
installing the seal. You can now looseassemble the spring seat-if you have a Boss 302-any shims,
the spring and retainer. With a compressor, pull the spring and retainer down far enough so you can
install the keepers. Release the compressor and check to make sure the retainers are locked into
position.
Have your valves ready to be installed in
the heads in order and the springs with
their shims, if you used any to correct
valvespring free heigh t.
Installed spring height can be checked
by two methods. The first is by simply
inserting the valve in the head, then as-
sembling the retainer and keepers on the
valve stem without the spring, shims or
valve-stem seal. The retainer is lifted up
to hold the valve in its closed position-it
also keeps the retainer and keepers from
falling down the stem-while the seat-to-
retainer dimension is measured. To get an
accurate reading, the retainer must be
lifted up firmly to ensure the valve is
against its seat and the retainer and
keepers are in place. A snap-gauge and
micrometers will give you the most
accurate reading when measuring this
dimension, however you can do pretty
well using a six-inch scale if you have
sharp eyes. One trick you can use is to
cut, then file a short section of welding
rod or heavy wire to the specified in-
stalled height of the spring. You can ac-
curately check the rod length using a
micrometer. This will give you an accu-
rate gauge which when placed between
the spring seat and the spring retainer will
show a gap the same thickness of the
shim if one is required. The shim that fits
between the end of the rod and the retainer
or the spring seat is the one to use.
90
If you've used the measuring method
to determine shim thickness , after you've
arrived at a shim-pad-to-retainer figure,
subtract the installed spring height from
it and you have the shim thickness re-
quired to provide the correct installed
heigh t. Therefore:
Shim th ickness
= spring-to-retainer dimension
- installed spring height
Shims come in thicknesses of 0 .0 I 5,
0.030 and 0.060 in. They can be stacked
in varying combinations so you'll end up
with the right overall thickness.
The second method of checking seat-
to-retainer distance varies only in that
you install the spring too. This means
you'll have to use the spring compressor
to do so, but it does ensure the reading
will be accurate. The valve will be closed
and the retainer and keepers will be fully
seated. If this method is used you won't
be a ble to use a snap gauge. You won't
be able to get under the spring retainer
because the spring is there. One measur-
ing device that does work well here is a
pair of vernier-type calipers. You can also
use your less-accurate six-inch scale. Mea-
sure the actual spring height in this case
by measuring from the spring pad to the
top of the spring. Regardless of the
method used, the way of arriving at shim
Using a brass punch to install the freeze plugs.
Some silicone sealer around its edge will ensure
an immediate seal.
thickness is the same-subtract specified
installed spring height from the dimen-
sion you just measured . If the variation
is less than 0.015 in ., you don't need a
shim.
When checking installed spring heights,
keep a record of the shims and their
location as you go along. Also, line up
the valves with their respective shims,
springs, retainers, keepers and seals so
they'll be organized for assembly time.
Remember, you can mix up seals, retain-
ers and keepers, but the springs, shims
and valves must be installed in the posi-
tion in which they were checked.
After finishing the installed -heigh t
check use your list to purchase the neces-
sary shims . While you're at it, pick up
four freeze plugs if you haven't done so
already. You'll need the 1-1 /2-in. diame-
ter cup-type plug-Ford D7 AZ-6026-A.
You should now have all the parts neces-
sary to assemble your cylinder heads.
Before assembling your heads make
sure all the parts are clean. Using your
shim list, organize the shims you just pur-
chased so they'll be installed in the right
location when it comes time to install
them. One thing that's handy to know
when looking for a particular thickness
shim is they are color-coded according to
their thickness. For example, V.S.1. uses
the following colors: Black, 0.015 in.;
silver, 0.030 in.; gold, 0.060 in
A completely assembled cylinder head, and with paint too! It'll remain covered while waiting to be
assembled to the engine. This is a 4-V 302 head incorporating adjustable press-in studs. Each Boss
302 head assembly includes four additional parts-pushrod guide plates which are retained under
screw-in studs.
Put t he Freeze Plugs In-Start t he cylinder-
head assembly by installing t he freeze
plugs. Stand the heads on their ends t o do
i t . Freeze plugs can be installed wi t hout
sealer, but it's not a bad idea t o put a
small bead of silicone-type sealer around
the outside edge of the hole. Sealer won' t
hurt anything, but how you install t he
plug can. Set the plug squarely over the
hole so you' re looking i nt o the plug-the
concave side is pointing out . Use a ham-
mer and the largest diameter punch you
have that' s not over 1 318-i n. t o drive the
plugs in. A punch t hat fits the plug ID is
perfect, or a I-i n. diameter brass punch
also works well-it does for me. Don' t use
a punch with less t han a 112-in. diameter.
It will distort the plug, causing it t o leak.
Likewise, don' t drive the plugs in by hit-
ting them on the edges of their flanges.
The same thing will happen. Install freeze
plugs by driving them in a little at a time.
Work around the inside edge of t he plug,
making sure i t goes in squarely. When the
outer edge of the plug lines up with the
ID of the hole, the plug is in far enough.
Turn the head end-for-end and install t he
other plug-then do the ot her head.
Install t he Springs and Valves-Set the
heads on their sides on your work bench
and start at one end of each of the heads
installing its valves and springs. Limit con-
fusion by working in the same order you
used when checking installed spring
heights. Oil each guide and valve stem,
insert the valve in its guide and slide a
stem seal all the way down over the
valve's stem. This will keep the valve
from falling out of its guide while
you' re installing the shimls, spring,
damper spring, if your engine is so equip-
ped and spring retainer in that order. The
stem seals are included in your engine's
gasket set. It's possible you'll have shims
for correcting spring free height as well as
for correcting installed height-or you
may have none at all. At this point use
the spring compressor t o pull the retainer
down around the valve-stem tip for instal-
ling the keepers-and t he retainer sleeve
if your engine uses the two-piece-type
retainers. Don' t compress t he springs
more than necessary. With the keepers in
place, release t he spring compressor and
check the keepers t o make sure they're in
place. Correct them if they are not and
continue installing the valves and springs.
If you made a gauge from welding rod or
wire you can use it now t o confirm in-
stalled spring height. With the installation
of t he last spring and valve, the cylinder
heads are assembled t o the point that
they can be installed on the block when
it' s ready. Spray your heads with oil and
store them covered up so they'll remain
clean, dry and rust-free while you' re
preparing your engine block.
All that's involved in reconditioning an intake
manifold is a good cleaning beginning with
scraping off all the old gasket material.
thorough cleaning. If it was hot-tanked,
this should be a relatively easy job. Scrape
its gasket surfaces-head, cylinder block
and carburetor.
Remove t he Baffle-An intake manifold
has one difficult area t o clean-its under-
side, directly under the carburetor-heat
passage. This passage is built i nt o the
manifold and connects the exhaust ports
for cylinders 2 and 7 for t he sole purpose
of providing heat for the fuel charge for
cold engine operation. To clean the sludge
build-up from this area you'll have t o
remove the baffle which shields the engine
oil from the hot manifold underside. Two
spiral-grooved rivets secure the baffle t o
INTAKE MANIFOLD
All that' s required t o restore your in-
take manifold t o like-new condition is a
Intake-manifold heat passage connecting the
number-2 and 7 cylinder exhaust ports. The
baffle (arrow) shields engine oil from the mani-
fold's hot underside. Photo courtesy Ford.

A completely assembled cylinder head, and with paint tool It'll remain covered while waiting to be
assembled to the engine. This is a 4V 302 head incorporating adjustable pressin studs. Each Boss
302 head assembly includes four additional parts-push rod guide plates which are retained under
screwin studs.
Put the Freeze Plugs In-Start the cylinder-
head assembly by installing the freeze
plugs. Stand the heads on their ends to do
it. Freeze plugs can be installed without
sealer, but it's not a bad idea to put a
small bead of silicone-type sealer around
the outside edge of the hole. Sealer won't
hurt anything, but how you install the
plug can. Set the plug squarely over the
hole so you're looking into the plug-the
concave side is pointing out. Use a ham-
mer and the largest diameter punch you
have that's not over 1-3/8-in. to drive the
plugs in. A punch that fits the plug ID is
perfect, or a I-in. diameter brass punch
also works well-i t does for me. Don't use
a punch with less than a 1/2-in. diameter.
It will distort the plug, causing it to leak.
Likewise, don't drive the plugs in by hit-
ting them on the edges of their flanges.
The same thing will happen. Install freeze
plugs by driving them in a little at a time.
Work around the inside edge of the plug,
making sure it goes in squarely. When the
outer edge of the plug lines up with the
ID of the hole, the plug is in far enough.
Turn the head end-for-end and install the
other plug-then do the other head.
Install the Springs and Valves-Set the
heads on their sides on your work bench
and start at one end of each of the heads
installing its valves and springs. Limit con-
fusion by working in the same order you
used when checking installed spring
heights. Oil each guide and valve stem,
insert the valve in its guide and slide a
stem seal all the way down over the
valve's stem. This will keep the valve
from falling out of its guide while
you're installing the shimls, spring,
damper spring, if your engine is so equip-
ped and spring retainer in that order. The
stem seals are included in your engine's
gasket set. It's possible you'll have shims
for correcting spring free height as well as
for correcting installed height-or you
may have none at all. At this point use
the spring compressor to pull the retainer
down around the valve-stem tip for instal-
ling the keepers-and the retainer sleeve
if your engine uses the two-piece-type
retainers. Don't compress the springs
more than necessary. With the keepers in
place, release the spring compressor and
check the keepers to make sure they're in
place. Correct them if they are not and
continue installing the valves and springs.
If you made a gauge from welding rod or
wire you can use it now to confirm in-
stalled spring height. With the installation
of the last spring and valve, the cylinder
heads are assembled to the point that
they can be installed on the block when
it's ready. Spray your heads with oil and
store them covered up so they'll remain
clean, dry and rust-free while you're
preparing your engine block.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
All that's required to restore your in-
take manifold to like-new condition is a
All that's involved in reconditioning an intake
manifold is a good cleaning beginning with
scraping off all the old gasket material.
thorough cleaning. Ifit was hot-tanked,
this should be a relatively easy job. Scrape
its gasket surfaces-head, cylinder block
and carburetor.
Remove the Baffle-An intake manifold
has one difficult area to clean-its under-
side, directly under the carburetor-heat
passage. This passage is built into the
manifold and connects the exhaust ports
for cylinders 2 and 7 for the sole purpose
of providing heat for the fuel charge for
cold engine operation. To clean the sludge
build-up from this area you'll have to
remove the baffle which shields the engine
oil from the hot manifold underside. Two
spiral-grooved rivets secure the baffle to
I ntakemanifold heat passage connecting the
number2 and 7 cylinder exhaust ports. The
baffle (arrow) shields engine oil from the mani
fold's hot underside. Photo courtesy Ford.
91
TO do a complete manifold cleaning job the heat baffle will have to be removed. This'll require a very skinny wedge to remove the rivets. Be careful when
removing them. Their heads are easily broken off. This is the buildup you'll normally find under a baffle.
Here's the easiest way to remedy a broken rivet. Drill it out, then tap the remaining hole with a
1/4-20 tap. Install the baffle with a 1/4-20 bolt and lock washer and you're back in business. Under
no circumstances should you leave the baffle off-you'll be wondering why your newly built engine
is consuming oil. It'll be vaporized and burned or released into the atmosphere through your crank-
case ventilation system.
the manifold. To remove them you'll
need to wedge something under the rivet
heads, something with a very sharp wedge.
A long skinny chisel will do the job. One
thing to be aware of, the rivet-heads are
easily broken off. If this happens you'll
have to drill the remainder of the rivet out.
Wedge under the rivet-head until the
head is about a quarter-inch off the baffle,
or far enough out to clamp on the head
with a pair of Vise-Grip@ pliers. With the
pliers clamped on the rivet head, pry
under the pliers while turning the rivet
counter-clockwise so the rivet unscrews
out of the manifold. When you've removed
the first rivet all you have to do to the
second, and last one, is t o back it out far
enough so you can rotate the baffle t o
the side for access to remove the sludge.
When you have this area well cleaned
simply rotate the baffle back into place
and install the rivet. Here's where skinny
fingers or needle-nose pliers come in
F,inishing off this manifold by masking off the
machined surfaces with masking tape prior to
painting. I f you've wondered how t o trim mask-
ing tape the easy way, this is how-with a soft
hammer. Don't apply this method when mask-
ing sheet metal.
handy. Hold the rivet so it starts in
squarely and lightly tap it into place.
Break a Rivet?-Because it's relatively
easy to break a rivet head off don't be
discouraged. Get on with the job of
removing the remainder of the rivet so
you can reinstall the baffle after you have
the manifold cleaned. If you do break a
rivet head off, don't think that one rivet
is enough to hold the baffle in place or
your engine can do without the baffle
altogether-it can't. Rather than trying to
find a replacement rivet, replace it with a
114"-20 x 318-in. long bolt or screw. First,
drill an 118-in. pilot hole in the center of
the broken-off rivet. Center-punch the
rivet first to make sure the drill doesn't
run off to the side. Next, use a 7132-in.
drill t o remove the remainder of the rivet.
A 7132-in. diameter hole is the correct size
for piloting a 114"-20 tap. After tapping
the hole and cleaning the manifold, rein-
stall the baffle using bolt and lock-washer.
To do a complete manifold cleaning job the heat baffle will have to be removed. This'll require a very skinny wedge to remove the rivets. Be careful when
removing them. Their heads are easily broken off. This is the buildup you'll normally find under a baffle.
Here's the easiest way to remedy a broken rivet. Drill it out, then tap the remaining hole with a .
1/420 tap. Install the baffle with a 1/4-20 bolt and lock washer and you're back in business. Under
no circumstances should you leave the baffle off-you'll be wondering why your newly built engine
is consuming oil. It'll be vaporized and burned or released into the atmosphere through your crank-
case ventilation system.
92
the manifold. To remove them you'll
need to wedge something under the rivet
heads, something with a very sharp wedge.
A long skinny chisel will do the job. One
thing to be aware of, the rivet-heads are
easily broken off. If this happens you'll
have to drill the remainder of the rivet out.
Wedge under the rivet-head until the
head is about a quarter-inch off the baffle,
or far enough out to clamp on the head
with a pair of Vise-Grip pliers. With the
pliers clamped on the rivet head, pry
under the pliers while turning the rivet
counter-clockwise so the rivet unscrews
out of the manifold. When you've removed
the first rivet all you have to do to the
second, and last one, is to back it out far
enough so you can rotate the baffle to
the side for access to remove the sludge.
When you have this area well cleaned
simply rotate the baffle back into place
and install the rivet. Here's where skinny
fingers or needle-nose pliers come in
Finishing off this manifold by masking off the
machined surfaces with masking tape prior to
painting. If you've wondered how to trim mask-
ing tape the easy way, this is how-with a soft
hammer. Don't apply this method when mask-
ing sheet metal.
handy. Hold the rivet so it starts in
squarely and lightly tap it into place.
Break a Rivet?-Because it's relatively
easy to break a rivet head off don't be
discouraged. Get on with the job of
removing the remainder of the rivet so
you can reinstall the baffle after you have
the manifold cleaned. If you do break a
rivet head off, don't think that one rivet
is enough to hold the baffle in place or
your engine can do without the baffle
altogether - it can't. Rather than trying to
find a replacement rivet, replace it with a
1/4"-20 x 3/8-in . long bolt or screw. First,
drill an 1/8-in. pilot hole in the center of
the broken-off rivet. Center-punch the
rivet first to make sure the drill doesn't
run off to the side. Next, use a 7/32-in.
drill to remove the remainder of the rivet.
A 7/32-in. diameter hole is the correct size
for piloting a 1/4"-20 tap. After tapping
the hole and cleaning the manifold, rein-
stall the baffle using bolt and lock-washer.
Engine Assembly
7
This is the part of the engine rebuild-
ing process I like. Everything is clean, all
the parts are new, reconditioned or have
been checked out and the running around
associated with getting parts and jobs
done you can't handle is just about over.
Things You Need Before Starting-Just
like all new jobs you've done up till now,
there are certain things you'll need. One
thing is all the parts. Trash bags are use-
ful for covering up clean parts, particular-
ly the block during assembly. You'll
also need a complete engine gasket set,
gasket sealer, gasket adhesive, or some
weatherstrip adhesive and a spray can of
aluminum paint. All sorts of sealers and
adhesives are available, but I'll just list
a few that work particularly well in
certain applications. First is room-tem-
perature-vulcanizing (RTV) silicone sealer.
It's great if it's used right in the right
place; used incorrectly it can be disas-
terous. You have to know its limitations.
It's not a cure-all. Ford markets some
particularly good sealers. Perfect Sealing
Compound, B5A-19554-A, is a general-
purpose sealer. Their other one is par-
ticularly good for installing intake-
manifold gaskets, Gasket and Seal Con-
tact Adhesive, D7AZ-19B508-A. Another
ood one for this purpose is OMC's
Outboard Marine Corporation) Adhesive
B
Type M. You can also use weatherstrip
adhesive as a gasket-adhesive substitute.
Ford's is COAZ-19552-A and 3M Corpor-
ation's is 08001.
Lubricants are a necessity when as-
sembling an engine. How an engine's
critical parts are lubricated during its first
few minutes of initial run-in will be a
major determining factor in the engine's
durability. Remember this during the
assembly process. Lubricants t o have on
hand include at least a quart of the oil
you intend t o use in your engine's crank-
case-probably a multi-grade detergent
Here are some adhesive-type sealers that are handy
- - - ~ -
when it comes tb assembling your engine.
oil-a can of oil additive and some
molybdenum-disulfide grease. As for what
brand of oil to use, I am not going to
make any suggestions because the brand
isn't as important as the grade. So, regard-
less of the brand you use, use the SE
grade. In addition to crankcase oil, get a
couple of cans of Ford's Oil Conditioner,
D2AZ-19579-A, or GM's EOS (Engine
Oil Supplement) for general engine assem-
bly, initial bearing lubrication, and to put
in the first crankcase fill. Finally, in the
4
oil department, you could also use asquirt
can. Fill if with crankcase oil for easy
application.
This is the part of the engine rebuild-
ing process I like. Everything is clean, all
the parts are new, reconditioned or have
been checked out and the running around
associated with getting parts and jobs
done you can't handle is just about over.
Things You Need Before Starting-Just
like all new jobs you've done up till now,
there are certain things you'll need . One
thing is all the parts. Trash bags are use-
ful for covering up clean parts , particular-
ly the block during assembly. You'll
also need a complete engine gasket set,
gasket sealer, gasket adhesive, or some
weatherstrip adhesive and a spray can of
aluminum paint. All sorts of sealers and
adhesives are available, but I'll just list
a few that work particularly well in
certain applications. First is room-tem-
perature-vulcanizing (RTV) silicone sealer.
It's great if it's used right in the right
place ; used incorrectly it can be disas-
terous. You have to know its limitations .
Engine Assembly 7
1970 351 W setup for installation with a manual transmission. This
engine is the big small block, used in most of the Ford car lines as
well as the light trucks., Larger displacement was gained by raising
the block deckheight 1.275 in. so stroke could be increased to 3-1/2
In. Photo courtesy Ford.
It's not a cure-all. Ford markets some
particularly good sealers . Perfect Sealing
Compound, B5A-19554-A, is a general-
purpose sealer. Their other one is par-
ticularly good for installing intake-
manifold gaskets, Gasket and Seal Con-
tact Adhesive, D7 AZ-19B508-A. Another
good one for this purpose is OMC's
(Outboard Marine Corporation) Adhesive
Type M. You can also use weatherstrip
adhesive as a gasket-adhesive substitute.
Ford's is COAZ-19552-A and 3M Corpor-
ation's is 08001.
Lubricants are a necessity when as-
sembling an engine. How an engine's
critical parts are lubricated during its first
few minutes of initial run-in will be a
major determining factor in the engine's
durability. Remember this during the
assembly process . Lubricants to have on
hand include at least a quart of the oil
you intend to use in your engine's crank-
case-probably a multi-grade detergent
oil-a can of oil additive and some
molybdenum-disulfide grease. As for what
brand of oil to use, I am not going to
make any suggestions because the brand
isn't as important as the grade. So, regard-
less of the brand you use, use the SE
grade. In addition to crankcase oil, get a
couple of cans of Ford's Oil Conditioner,
D2AZ-19579-A, or GM's EOS (Engine
Oil Supplement) for general engine assem-
bly, initial bearing lubrication, and to put
in the first crankcase fill. Finally, in the
oil department, you could also use a squirt
can. Fill it with crankcase oil for easy
application.
Here are some adhesivetype sealers that are handy when it comes tOo assembling your engine.
93
Two tools you must have when assembling an engine. Even the most experienced mechanic doesn't
guess when torquing bolts. The ring compressor is a must when installing rod-and-piston assemblies.
Now, for special tools other than those
normally residing in your toolbox. The
first one is a tool you may have. A torque
wrench. I mention it especially because
an engine cannot be assembled correctly
without a torque wrench. When it comes
t o tightening bolts, even the most ex-
perienced mechanic doesn't rely on feel,
he uses a torque wrench. Therefore, put
thls tool at the top of your list. The next
item is one that I don't consider neces-
sary because bearings are made to such
close tolerances, however it's not a bad
idea to use it as a check to be sure you
get the right bearings. It's not uncommon
that the wrong bearings were put in the
right box. I'm referring to Plastigage, a
colored strip of wax used for checking
bearing-to-journal clearances. All you
need t o know about it at this point is
you'll need the green Plastigage which
measures 0.001-0.003 in. Get the mini-
mum amount when purchasing it-you
won't need much. The need for the next
tool depends on the route you took with
your cam bearings. If you left your old
ones in the block or had your engine
machinist replace them for you, you
won't have t o concern yourself. If you
have yet to replace them then you will
need a cam-bearing installation tool set.
Before you rush out t o rustle one up I11
take this opportunity to suggest that you
have an engine shop do it for you. It's
not too late yet. However, if you still
insist on doing it yourself, read on.
CAM BEARlNG INSTALLATION
So, I didn't scare you out of attempt-
ing to replace your own camshaft bear-
ings? Well, you can't back out now so
let's get on with it. Like I just said, the
first thing you'll need are the tools. These
come in varying degrees of sophistication,
from the type which pulls the bearing
into its bore with a threaded rod, nut,
thrust bearing and a mandrel to one that
drives the bearings with a mandrel,
driving bar and a hammer. When installing
camshaft bearings, three things must be
kept in mind. First, the bearings must be
installed square to their bores, the oil
holes in the bearings must line up with
those in the block and care must be taken
during the installation so as not t o dam-
age the bearings.
They Are All Different Sizes-Even
though I indicated in the teardown chap-
ter that the five cam bearings have dif-
ferent bore diameters, I wasn't as explicit
then as now due t o the relative impor-
tance of removing the bearings as opposed
to installing them. Here's a big shocker
for you. All small-block Ford cam bearings
are the same regardless of whether the
engine is a 221 or a 351W. Their bore
diameters get progressively smaller from
front-to-back: 2.083,2.068,2.053,2.038
and 2.023 in. Also, because the bearing
shells are approximately the same thick-
ness, their bores in the block have the
same relative diameters as the bearings'
outside diameters. Consequently, each
bearing will fit in only one location.
Chamfer the Bearings-Before installing
the bearings, it's a good idea t o remove
the sharp edges from the inside edges of
all the new bearings. They can interfere
with the cam journals as you're trying t o
slide the cam into place, making cam in-
stallation more difficult than it needs t o
be. The tool particularly suited for this is
a bearing scraper. It's like a triangular file
with no teeth. If you don't have one of
these, a pen knife is a satisfactory sub-
stitute. To chamfer the bearing ID, hold
your knife or scraper 45' t o the bearing
surface and hold the bearing so you can
rotate it while peeling a small shaving
about the size of four human hairs-if
you can picture the size of four hairs. The
idea here is you don't have t o remove
much, just enough so you can't feel a
burr when you drag your finger nail
across the edges of the bearings.
Get the Block and Bearings Ready-
Position your cylinder block on its back
so youl l have access for installing the
bearing inserts. Also, it's best to locate
the block so you can easily sight down
the center of the bearing bores during the
installation, particularly if you have the
type of bearing installer that's not self-
centering. This is t o ensure the bearings
enter straight.
After your block is positioned, or-
ganize the bearings in the same sequence
they are to be installed in. This'll save
some time fumbling around. Also, fully
understand where the bearing-insert oil
holes are t o be positioned in the bearing
bores so they'll coincide with the oil-
holes. Cam-bearing lubrication depends
on oil being fed up from the crankshaft
main bearings. If an insert is rotated in
its housing so the oil hole is closed off,
the bearing and journal won't receive
any lubrication. The result is a wiped
out bearing and possibly a severely
damaged bearing journal. Oil holes in the
bearing inserts are slotted to accommo-
date some misalignment between them
and the oil holes, but not much more
than five degrees. In addition t o the nor-
mal one hole for lubricating a cam journal,
there are two holes in the front bearing
Two tools you must have when assembling an engine. Even the most experienced mechanic doesn't
guess when torquing bolts. The ring compressor is a must when installing rodandpiston assemblies.
Now, for special tools other than those
normally residing in your toolbox . The
first one is a tool you may have . A torque
wrench. I mention it especially because
an engine cannot be assembled correctly
without a torque wrench. When it comes
to tightening bolts , even the most ex-
perienced mechani c doesn' t rely on feel,
he uses a torque wrench. Therefore, put
this tool at the top of your list. The next
item is one that I don't consider neces-
sary because bearings are made to such
close tolerances, however it's not a bad
idea to use it as a check to be sure you
get the right bearings. It's not uncommon
that the wrong bearings were put in the
right box. I'm referring to Plastigage, a
colored strip of wax used for checking
bearing-to-j ournal clearances. All you
need to know about it at this point is
you'll need the green Plastigage which
measures 0.001-0.003 in. Get the mini-
mum amount when purchasing it-you
won't need much. The need for the next
tool depends on the rou te you took with
your cam bearings . If you left your old
ones in the block or had your engine
machinist replace them for you, you
won' t have to concern yourself. If you
have yet to replace them then you will
need a cam-bearing installation tool set.
Before you rush out to rustle one up 111
take this opportunity to suggest that you
have an engine shop do it for you. It's
not too late yet. However, if you still
insist on doing it yourself, read on.
CAM BEARING INST ALLA nON
So , I didn't scare you out of attempt-
ing to replace your own camshaft bear-
ings? Well , you can't back out now so
let's get on with it. Like I just said , the
first thing you'll need are the tools . These
come in varying degrees of sophistication,
from the type which pulls the bearing
into its bore with a threaded rod, nut ,
94
thrust bearing and a mandrel to one that
drives the bearings with a mandrel,
driving bar and a hammer. When installing
camshaft bearings, three things must be
kept in mind. First, the bearings must be
installed square to their bores, the oil
holes in the bearings must line up with
those in the block and care must be taken
during the installation so as not to dam-
age the bearings.
They Are All Different Sizes-Even
though I indicated in the teardown chap-
ter that the five cam bearings have dif-
ferent bore diameters, I wasn't as explicit
then as now due to the relative impor-
tance of removing the bearings as opposed
to installing them. Here's a big shocker
for you. All small-block Ford cam bearings
are the same regardless of whether the
engine is a 221 or a 351 W. Their bore
diameters get progressively smaller from
front-to-back : 2.083,2.068,2.053,2.038
and 2.023 in . Also, because the bearing
shells are approximately the same thick-
ness, their bores in the block have the
same relative diameters as the bearings'
ou tside diameters . Consequently, each
bearing will fit in only one location.
Chamfer the Bearings-Before installing
the bearings, it's a good idea to remove
the sharp edges from the inside edges of
all the new bearings . They can interfere
with the cam journals as you're trying to
slide the cam into place, making cam in-
stallation more difficult than it needs to
be. The tool particularly suited for this is
a bearing scraper. It's like a triangular file
with no teeth. If you don't have one of
these, a pen knife is a satisfactory sub-
stitute . To chamfer the bearing ID, hold
your knife or scraper 45 to the bearing
surface and hold the bearing so you can
rotate it while peeling a small shaving
about the size of four human hairs-if
you can pi cture the size of four hairs. The
idea here is you don't have to remove
much, just enough so you can't feel a
burr when you drag your finger nail
across the edges of the bearings .
Get the Block and Bearings Ready-
Position your cylinder block on its back
so you'll have access for installing the
bearing inserts . Also, it's best to locate
the block so you can easily sight down
the center of the bearing bores during the
installation, particularly if you have the
type of bearing installer that's not self-
centering. This is to ensure the bearings
enter straight.
After your block is pOSitioned, or-
ganize the bearings in the same sequence
they are to be installed in. This'll save
some time fumbling around. Also, fully
understand where the bearing-insert oil
holes are to be positioned in the bearing
bores so they'll coincide with the oil-
holes. Cam-bearing lubrication depends
on oil being fed up from the crankshaft
main bearings. If an insert is rotated in
its housing so the oil hole is closed off,
the bearing and journal won' t receive
any lubrication . The result is a wiped
out bearing and possibly a severely
damaged bearing journal. Oil holes in the
bearing inserts are slotted to accommo-
date some misalignment between them
and the oil holes, but not much more
than five degrees. In addition to the nor-
mal one hole for lubricating a cam journal,
there are two holes in the front bearing
Each of t he fi ve camshaft bearings i s a di f f er ent size. They get smaller f r om t he f r ont t o t he back o f t he engine. Beari ng numbers and t hei r correspondi ng
posi ti ons are pr i nt ed on t he side of most cam-bearing boxes. Size di fference can be seen b y t hi s phot o o f f r ont and rear bearings.
New camshaft bearings have square edges and
possibly a sl i ght bur r whi ch makes i nstal l i ng a
cam di f f i cul t . Bef ore i nstal l i ng t he bearings,
sl i ghtl y chamfer these edges wi t h a penkni f e
or a bearing scraper as I' m doi ng here.
insert. The additional hole feeds the bot-
tom distributor-shaft bearing. Therefore,
one hole lets oil into the cam bearing and
the other lets it out t o lubricate the
distributor bearing.
Install the Bearings-With everything ready
to go, you can begin installing the cam
bearings. Start with the front or rear
bearing and work toward the center of
the engine from the opposite end of the
engine. When you finish installing the
center bearing, turn around and install
the remaining two bearings by also work-
ing from the opposite end. The reason for
doing this is the farther you are from the
bearing-relative to its position in the
block-the more accurate the installation
tool can be lined up with the centerline
of the camshaft bearing bore. You'll have
the bores at the opposite end of the block
from the bearing you're installing to use
as a reference t o line the bearing and tool
up. This is particularly true of the drive-
in type which is lined up using the "eye-
ball" technique.
To install a bearing, select the one
which fits the location you want to start
with. Although obvious, most' bearing
manufacturers list bearing locations with
Hol es in t he cam bearings are there f or a purpose, t o provi de a passage f r om t he oi l galleries t o t he
beari ng journals. Fr ont beari ng i nsert has t wo holes, so be careful. Ext r a hol e i s f or cam-j ournal -to-
di stri butor-shaft-j ournal oi l gallery shown i n t he cut away drawings o n pages 52 and 72.
Instal l i ng cam bearings is n o di f f erent t han removi ng them, except considerable care must be taken
t o make sure t hey don' t get damaged, t he oi l hol es l i ne up and t hey are square.
each part number on the box. Cross-
reference these numbers with those on
the bearing shells t o confirm their loca-
tions if you have any doubts. Slip the
insert over the mandrel. If you have the
expansion-type mandrel you'll have t o
expand it so it fits snugly in the ID of
the bearing. If you have the solid type,
select the one that fits the bearing ID.
With the pull- or drive-rod handy, position
the bearing and mandrel over the bearing
bore so the oil hole in the bearing lines up
with the one in the block-so they will
match after the bearing is installed. Also,
if you have the threaded, or pull-type
installation tool, locate the bearing and
mandrel on the opposite side of the bear-
ing web from which you'll be pulling.
When using the drive-in type, you ob-
viously install the bearing from the same
side you'll be driving it in from. Regard-
less of the type tool you're using, check
the bearing immediately after you've got-
ten it started in the bore to make sure it's
.CHiGAN
I ! N G I N ~ R I N G 8
t2'CS -TO
rO".D
1- 4:" S 2Uln
Each of the five camshaft bearings is a different size. They get smaller from the front to the back of the engine. Bearing numbers and their corresponding
positions are printed on the side of most cam-bearing boxes. Size difference can be seen by this photo of front and rear bearings.
New camshaft bearings have square edges and
possibly a slight burr which makes installing a
cam difficult. Before installing the bearings,
slightly chamfer these edges with a penknife
or a bearing scraper as I'm doing here.
insert. The additional hole feeds the bot-
tom distributor-shaft bearing. Therefore,
one hole lets oil into the cam bearing and
the other lets it out to lubricate the
distribu tor bearing.
Install the Bearings-With everything ready
to go, you can begin installing the cam
bearings . Start with the front or rear
bearing and work toward the center of
the engine from the opposite end of the
engine. When you finish installing the
center bearing, turn around and install
the remaining two bearings by also work-
ing from the opposite end. The reason for
doing this is the farther you are from the
bearing-relative to its position in the
block-the more accurate the installation
tool can be lined up with the centerline
of the camshaft bearing bore. You '11 have
the bores at the opposite end of the block
from the bearing you're installing to use
as a reference to line the bearing and tool
up. This is particularly true of the drive-
in type which is lined up using the "eye-
ball" technique.
To install a bearing, select the one
which fits the location you want to start
with. Although obvious, most bearing
manufacturers list bearing locations with
Holes in the cam bearings are there for a purpose, to provide a passage from the oil galleries to the
bearing journals. Front bearing insert has two holes, so be careful. Extra hole is for camjournalto
distributor-shaft-journal oil gallery shown in the cutaway drawings on pages 52 and 72.
Installing cam bearings is no different than removing them, except considerable care must be taken
to make sure they don't get damaged, the oil holes line up and they are square.
each part number on the box. Cross-
reference these numbers with those on
the bearing shells to confirm their loca-
tions if you have any doubts. Slip the
insert over the mandrel. If you have the
expansion-type mandrel you'll have to
expand it so it fits snugly in the ID of
the bearing. If you have the solid type,
select the one that fits the bearing ID.
With the pull- or drive-rod handy, position
the bearing and mandrel over the bearing
bore so the oil hole in the bearing lines up
with the one in the block-so they will
match after the bearing is installed. Also,
if you have the threaded, or pull-type
installation tool , locate the bearing and
mandrel on the opposite side of the bear-
ing web from which you'll be pUlling.
When using the drive-in type, you ob-
viously install the bearing from the same
side you'll be driving it in from. Regard-
less of the type tool you're using, check
the bearing immediately after you've got-
ten it started in the bore to make sure it's
95
Al l but the front cam bearing can be eyeballed
during the installation. I t must be installed
0.005-0.020 in. behind the front face of its
bore, being checked here with a straight edge
and feeler gauge.
going in straight, then finish installing it if
it's OK. If not, straighten it up and finish
the installation. Except for the front
bearing, stop pulling or pushing the bear-
ing in when it looks centered in its hous-
ing. As for the front bearing, it must be
located more precisely.
Number-One Bearing Requires a Feeler
Gauge-The front edge of the number-one
cam bearing must be located 0.005-0.020
in. behind the front face of the engine
block for timing-chain lubrication. The
camshaft thrust-plate-mounting surface
conveniently coincides with the front-
face-of-block, so you can work from it.
When you think the bearing is close t o
its right location check it with a straight-
edge laid across the thrust-plate surface.
Gauge the distance between i t and the
front edge of the bearing. If the clearance
is not within the 0.005-0.020-in. range,
move the bearing accordingly. You can
also check t o see if the bearing is installed
squarely by checking around the bearing
with the feeler gauges in three or four
locations. If it's more than a few thou-
sandths off, square it up.
Install All the Plugs-With the cam bear-
ings in place, you can install the camshaft-
bore soft-plug. Also, while you're in the
plug-installing business, now's a good
time to install the balance of the plugs
that go in the block: 6 freeze plugs which
fit in the sides of the block-2 or 3 per
side-and 6 oil gallery plugs, 3 in front
and 3 in back.
Water-Jacket Plugs-The water-jacket plugs
are the same as those in the cylinder
heads, 1-112-in. diameter cup type. It's
not necessary to use sealer when installing
these, but I recommend it. Install them
using the same method used to install the
other soft-plugs.
Cam Plug-The rear cam plug is a 2-5/32
in. diameter cup-type plug. Plugs such as
Some silicone sealer and a large-diameter punch for installation help ensure that your freeze plugs
won't leak. Whatever you do, don't hammer on the edge of a freeze plug t o install it. This will distort
its edge and increase the likelihood of a leak.
this one which must block off oil at the
back of the cylinder block must be sealed.
Silicone sealer is best. It will ensure that
you won't have an oil leak that eventually
appears as ugly spots on your driveway,
or worse yet, as a well-oiled, slipping
clutch, if your car has a manual trans-
mission.
To install the cam plug, use a large-
diameter punch-2-in. OD is fine-but
don't use a punch smaller than 112-in.
diameter. Apply a small bead of sealer
around the edge of the hole and drive the
plug squarely ynto the block so its plug is
even with the inside edge of the hole's
chamfered edge. After the plug is in,
wipe away the excess sealer to make the
job neat.
Front Oil-Gallery Plugs-The front oil-
gallery plugs are small 112-in. diameter
cup-type plugs. Youll need three plugs
and a 318-in. punch to install them. It
will fit inside the plugs. If you don't have
a punch this size, use an old 318-in. bolt
with the end ground off square so it won't
distort the plug during the installation.
Unlike the rear oil plugs, it's not necessary
t o use sealer on these plugs. Any leak
which occurs will be very small and the
oil will end up in the oil pan.
Rear Oil-Gallerv Plugs-Due to the need
t o prevent oil i eakak at the back of an
engine block, the rear oil-gallery plugs are
pipe-thread plugs. If you look through
your collection of bits and pieces you
should find three 114-in. pipe plugs with
a 318-in. square. If any of your plugs were
damaged t o the point they can't be re-
used, replace all of them with socket-head
plugs which require an Allen-type hex
wrench for tightening. Rather than being
made from cast steel like the original plugs,
the steel plugs with rolled threads are less
likely to gall and seize in the block threads.
The socket type also eliminates the prob-
You'll need a large punch t o install the front
oil-gallery plugs, but not one that fits tight.
Otherwise it'll end up trapped after a plug is
installed.
lem of rounding the square off. When in-
stalling them, regardless of the type you
use, coat the threads with sealer and run
them in firmly.
Oil-Filter Adapter-If you removed the
oil-filter-to-block adapter, reinstall it.
You'll need a 1-114-in. socket to do this.
If you remember from when removing
it, the hex-nut that is an integral part of
the adapter nut is short, so be careful
All but the front cam bearing can be eyeballed
during the installation. It must be installed
0.005-0.020 in. behind the front face of its
bore, being checked here with a straight edge
and feeler gauge.
going in straight, then finish installing it if
it's OK. If not , straighten it up and finish
the installation. Except for the front
bearing, stop pulling or pushing the bear-
ing in when it looks centered in its hous-
ing. As for the front bearing, it must be
located more precisely.
Number-One Bearing Requires a Feeler
Gauge-The front edge of the number-one
cam bearing must be located 0.005-0.020
in. behind the front face of the engine
block for timing-chain lubrication. The
camshaft thrust-plate-mounting surface
conveniently coincides with the front-
face-of-block , so you can work from it.
When you think the bearing is close to
its right location check it with a straight-
edge laid across the thrust-plate surface.
Gauge the distance between it and the
front edge of the bearing. If the clearance
is not within the O.OOS-O.020-in . range ,
move the bearing accordingly . You can
also check to see if the bearing is installed
squarely by checking around the bearing
with the feeler gauges in three or four
locations. If it's more than a few thou-
sandths off, square it up.
Install All the Plugs-With the cam bear-
ings in place, you can install the camshaft-
bore soft-plug. Also, while you're in the
plug-installing business, now's a good
time to install the balance of the plugs
that go in the block: 6 freeze plugs which
fit in the sides of the block-2 or 3 per
side- and 6 oil gallery plugs, 3 in front
and 3 in back.
Water-Jacket Plugs-The water-jacket plugs
are the same as those in the cylinder
heads , I-I/2-in. diameter cup type. It's
not necessary to use sealer when installing
these , but I recommend it. Install them
using the same method used to install the
other soft-plugs .
Cam Plug-The rear cam plug is a 2-5/32
in. diameter cup-type plug. Plugs such as
96
Some silicone sealer and a largediameter punch for installation help ensure that your freeze plugs
won't leak. Whatever you do, don't hammer on the edge of a freeze plug to install it. This will distort
its edge and increase the likelihood of a leak.
this one which must block off oil at the
back of the cylinder block must be sealed.
Silicone sealer is best. It will ensure that
you won't have an oil leak that eventually
appears as ugly spots on your driveway,
or worse yet, as a well-oiled, slipping
clutch, if your car has a manual trans-
mission.
To install the cam plug, use a large-
diameter punch-2-in. OD is fine-but
don't use a punch smaller than I /2-in .
diameter. Apply a small bead of sealer
around the edge of the hole and drive the
plug squarely into the block so its plug is
even with the inside edge of the hole's
cham fered edge . After the plug is in,
wipe away the excess sealer to make the
job neat.
Front Oil-Gallery Plugs-The front oil-
gallery plugs are small 1 /2-in. diameter
cup-type plugs. You11 need three plugs
and a 3/8-in. punch to install them. It
will fit inside the plugs. If you don't have
a punch this size, use an old 3/8-in. bolt
with the end ground off square so it won't
distort the plug during the installation.
Unlike the rear oil plugs, it's not necessary
to use sealer on these plugs. Any leak
which occurs will be very small and the
oil will end up in the oil pan.
Rear Oil-Gallery Plugs-Due to the need
to prevent oil leakage at the back of an
engine block, the rear oil-gallery plugs are
pipe-thread plugs. If you look through
your collection of bits and pieces you
should find three 1/4-in. pipe plugs with
a 3/8-in. square. If any of your plugs were
damaged to the point they can't be re-
used, replace all of them with socket-head
plugs which require an Allen-type hex
wrench for tightening. Rather than being
made from cast steel like the original plugs,
the steel plugs with rolled threads are less
likely to gall and seize in the block threads.
The socket type also eliminates the prob-
You'll need a large punch to install the front
oilgallery plugs, but not one that fits tight.
Otherwise it'll end up trapped after a plug is
installed.
lem of rounding the square off. When in-
stalling them, regardless of the type you
use, coat the threads with sealer and run
them in firmly .
Oil-Filter Adapter-If you removed the
oil-fllter-to-block adapter, reinstall it.
You'll need a 1-1/4-in. socket to do this.
If you remember from when removing
it, the hex-nut that is an integral part of
the adapter nut is short , so be careful
I f you're repl aci ng your rear oi l -gal l ery plugs, get a socket-head t ype rather t han t he OEM square-
head type. It's a 114" pi pe thread. Instal l t he pl ugs af t er coat i ng t he threads wi t h t he si l i cone sealer.
When rein1 , ~i l - f i l t er i . be sure
t o push on t he socket t o keep it from j umpi ng
of f . Torque it t o 80 ft. Ibs.
then torquing it in place so the socket
doesn't slip off and round off the nut's
corners. Torque the nut t o 80 ft. lbs.
CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION
How you install your camshaft and
prepare it for its first few minutes of
initial engine run-in, regardless of whether
the cam is new or not, will determine
how long it's going t o live-30 minutes,
30,000 miles or 100,000 miles? A not-
too-uncommon result of an improperly
installed camshaft is a lobe/s gets wiped,
or rounded off. The damage is not
confined to the camshaft because metal
particles worn from the lobe and lifter
end up well distributed through an
engine's oiling system-oil pump, main
bearings and everywhere oil is circulated.
The oil filter filters out most of the debris,
Li ke al l t he ot her cup-t ype plugs, you' l l need
somethi ng large t o i nstal l t he rear camshaft
plug. Thi s one i s cri t i cal because if it leaks you' l l
have a very di f f i cul t t i me repai ri ng it. Therefore,
make sure what y ou use as a punch comes close
t o f i t t i ng t he I D o f t he plug. Use si l i cone sealer!
- .
1
Component s whi ch make u p a compl et e camshaft and dri ve assembly. Center phot o shows earlier
st yl e counter-sunk thrust-pl ate bol t s and t he spacer used wi t h OEM-t ype cast-i ron cam sprockets.
but not all. Not only does this mean the
cam and lifters will have t o be replaced, it
also means replacing all the bearings be-
cause metallic particles are imbedded in
their soft aluminum-tin or copper-lead
overlays. Having t o do this immediately
after a complete rebuild can make a grown
man cry. So, be particularly careful during
this part of the engine assembly.
Grease the Camshaft Lobes-Due t o the
high contact pressures between the cam
lobes and their lifters, and the possibility
the lifters and lobes will not be receiving
much lubrication initially because your
engine may have to be cranked a few min-
utes before it first fires, the cam lobes
must be lubricated with something to
protect them during these first critical
If you're replacing your rear oil gallery plugs, get a sockethead type rather than the OEM square
head type. It's a 1/4" pipe thread. Install the plugs after coating the threads with the silicone sealer.
When reinstalling your oilfilter adapter, be sure
to push on the socket to keep it from jumping
off. Torque it to 80 ft. Ibs.
then torquing it in place so the socket
doesn't slip off and round off the nut's
corners . Torque the nut to 80 fLlbs.
CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION
How you install your camshaft and
prepare it for its first few minutes of
initial engine run-in, regardless of whether
the cam is new or not, will determine
how long it's going to live-30 minutes,
30,000 miles or 100,000 miles? A not-
too-uncommon result of an improperly
installed camshaft is a labels gets wiped,
or rounded off. The damage is not
confined to the camshaft because metal
particles worn from the lobe and lifter
end up well distributed through an
engine's oiling system-oil pump, main
bearings and everywhere oil is circulated.
The oil filter filters out most of the debris,
Like all the other cuptype plugs, you'll need
something large to install the rear camshaft
plug. This one is critical because if it leaks you'll
have a very difficult time repairing it. Therefore,
make sure what you use as a punch comes close
to fitting the 10 of the plug. Use silicone sealerl
Components which make up a complete camshaft and drive assembly. Center photo shows earlier
style counter-sunk thrustplate bolts and the spacer used with OEM-type castiron cam sprockets.
but not all. Not only does this mean the
cam and lifters will have to be replaced, it
also means replacing all the bearings be-
cause metallic particles are imbedded in
their soft aluminum-tin or copper-lead
overlays. Having to do this immediately
after a complete rebuild can make a grown
man cry. So, be particularly careful during
this part of the engine assembly.
Grease the Camshaft Lobes-Due to the
high contact pressures between the cam
lobes and their lifters, and the possibility
the lifters and lobes will not be receiving
much lubrication initially because your
engine may have to be cranked a few min
utes before it first fires, the cam lobes
must be lubricated with something to
protect them during these first critical
97
Applying molydisulphide (MoS2) t o the lobes
prior to installing the camshaft. Don't skimp
here.
minutes. This is where molybdenum-
disulfide, commonly known as moly-
disulfide, comes in. Dow Corning's
Molykote G-n@ paste is readily avail-
able in 2.8-02. tubes, or if you're
going to be installing cams for a living
you can get it in pint cans and bigger.
Valvoline also markets their own moly-
disulfide-Special Moly EP Grease@.
Before installing the cam in the block
wipe the cam bearings clean with lacquer
thinner and a paper towel, then oil them
well and use your finger tip to wipe the
oil around the bearings. Do the same t hng
with the bearing journals. Apply the moly
grease evenly t o the cam lobes with a
short, stiff-bristled brush or your finger
tip and you're ready to install the cam.
Install the Cam-Temporarily install the
timing gear onto your cam to provide a
"handle." Preferably with your block on
its rear face, feed the cam into place being
careful not t o bang the lobes into the
bearings. The lobes and bearings are pretty
tough, but there is no point in needlessly
damaging something when it is easily
avoided. You can install the cam about
half the way in the block by supporting
the cam by the geared end with one hand
and the center bearing with the other. To
install it the rest of the way, reach down
inside the block with one hand and care-
fully feed the cam through each bearing
web until the journals line up with their
bearings. Line the cam up and slide it
into place. This is where chamfering the
bearings pays off. The cam should fit
nicely into place and rotate by hand with-
out much effort. Use the timing gear to
turn it with. Take the timing gear off
before proceeding with the next step.
Beware of the Thrust Plate and Bolts-
There are two things to watch when
installing the camshaft thrust plate and
its attaching bolts. First, the plate must
be positioned right. Your thrust plate will
be the idiot-proof type or the correct
installed position will be indicated on the
plate itself. The plate is grooved t o route
oil from the front-bearing-journal-to-dis-
tributor-shaft oil passage t o the camshaft
thrust surface and timing chain. This
groove must be at bottom rear when the
thrust plate is installed.
The next items t o watch are the thrust
plate mounting bolts. You can't just use
any old 1/4-20 bolt for this application
because of the tight fit between the front
of the thrust plate and the back of the
cam timing gear. The right bolts have
special heads. All 221s used a slotted
&ad, countersunk bolt and aLl HP289,
302 and 351W engines use a special half-
high hex-head, grade-8 bolt. ~ 0 t h are 518-
in. long. In the intermediate years between
1964 and 1968, the 260 and 289 engines
used either the slotted-head or hex-head
bolts. To determine which bolts your
engine uses look at the thrust plate. If
it has countersunk holes, it obviously uses
the countersunk bolts, otherwise it uses
the hex-head bolts. So make sure you
have the right ones or you might end up
with the bolt heads jammed against the
back of the timing gear.
When you've located the right attaching
bolts, install the thrust plate. Remember,
it can be installed in four different posi-
tions and only one way is correct, provid-
ing you don't have the idiot-proof one.
It'll work in any position. Snug the bolts
up, then torque the slotted head to 8 ft.
lbs. or the hex head to 10 ft. lbs.
Oil the cam bearings and spread the oil evenly
over the bearing surfaces with your finger tips.
Carefully slide the cam into place, feeding i t in
from one bearing to the next. It should fi t
snugly when the bearing journals engage their
bearings.
CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION
With your camshaft in place you can Early camshaft thrust plates were "idiot-
turn your attention to the crankshaft and proofed." They didn't have a front, back, up or
its bearings and rear-main oil ~ ~ ~ ' 1 1
down and there are grooves in both sides. The
later style has t o be located a certain way. Its
have to choose the bearings based on the
position is indicated so anyone who can read
size of your main-bearing journals. The shouldn't have any problem.
Applying molydisulphide (MoS
2
) to the lobes
prior to installing the camshaft. Don't skimp
here.
minutes. This is where molybdenum-
disulfide , commonly known as moly-
disulfide, comes in. Dow Corning's
Molykote G-n paste is readily avail-
able in 2.8-oz. tubes , or if you're
going to be installing cams for a living
you can get it in pint cans and bigger.
Valvoline also markets their own moly-
disulfide-Special Moly EP Grease.
Before installing the cam in the block
wipe the cam bearings clean with lacquer
thinner and a paper towel, then oil them
well and use your finger tip to wipe the
oil around the bearings . Do the same thing
with the bearing journals. Apply the moly
grease evenly to the cam lobes with a
short , stiff-bristled brush or your finger
tip and you' re ready to install the cam.
Install the Cam-Temporarily install the
timing gear onto your cam to provide a
"handle." Preferably with your block on
its rear face, feed the cam into place being
careful not to bang the lobes into the
bearings. The lobes and bearings are pretty
tough, but there is no point in needlessly
damaging something when it is easily
avoided. You can install the cam about
half the way in the block by supporting
the cam by the geared end with one hand
and the center bearing with the other. To
install it the rest of the way , reach down
inside the block with one hand and care-
fully feed the cam through each bearing
web until the journals line up with their
bearings. Line the cam up and slide it
in to place. This is where cham fering the
bearings pays off. The cam should fit
nicely into place and rotate by hand with-
out much effort. Use the timing gear to
turn it with . Take the timing gear off
before proceeding with the next step.
Beware of the Thrust Plate and Bolts-
There are two things to watch when
installing the camshaft thrust plate and
its attaching bolts . Fi rst, the plate must
98
be positioned right. Your thrust plate will
be the idiot-proof type or the correct
installed position will be indicated on the
plate itself. The plate is grooved to route
oil from the front-bearing-journal-to-dis-
tribu tor-shaft oil passage to the camshaft
thrust surface and timing chain. This
groove must be at bottom rear when the
thrust pia te is installed.
The next items to watch are the thrust
plate mounting bolts. You can't just use
any old 1/4-20 bolt for this application
because of the tight fit between the front
of the thrust plate and the back of the
cam timing gear. The right bolts have
special heads. All 221 s used a slotted
head, countersunk bolt and all HP289 ,
302 and 351W engines use a special half-
high hex-head, grade-8 bolt. Both are 5/8-
in. long. In the intermediate years between
1.964 and 1968, the 260 and 289 engines
used either the slotted-head or hex-head
bolts. To determine which bolts your
engine uses look at the thrust plate. If
it has countersunk holes, it obviously uses
the countersunk boits, otherwise it uses
the hex-head bolts. So make sure you
have the right ones or you might end up
with the bolt heads jammed against the
back of the timing gear.
When you 've located the right attaching
bolts, install the thrust plate . Remember ,
it can be installed in four different posi-
tions and only one way is correct, provid-
ing you don't have the idiot-proof one.
It'll work in any position. Snug the bolts
up, then torque the slotted head to 8 ft.
lbs . or the hex head to 10 ft . lbs.
CRANKSHAFT INST ALLA nON
With your camshaft in place you can
turn your attention to the crankshaft and
its bearings and rear-main oil seal . You'll
have to choose the bearings based on the
size of your main-bearing journals. The
Oil the cam bearings and spread the oil evenly
over the bearing surfaces with your finger tips.
Carefully slide the cam into place, feeding it in
from one bearing to the next. It should fit
snugly when the bearing journals engage their
bearings.
Early camshaft thrust plates were "idiot-
proofed." They didn't have a front, back, up or
down and there are grooves in both sides. The
later style has to be located a certain way. Its
position is indicated so anyone who can read
shouldn't have any problem.
Thrust-plate bolts don't have t o be torqued Crankshaft and related components. HP289 uses an additional counterweight which locates behind
much-8 ft. Ibs. for the countersunk type and the timing-chain sprocket with a roll pin. Pilot bearing and flywheel are for standard transmissions
10 ft. Ibs. for the hex head. only. A flexplate is used with automatic transmissions. Photo courtesy Ford.
Wide flanges of a crankshaft thrust bearing
distinguishe it from the single-purpose radial
bearing. Thrust bearing locates in the number-3
position in the center.
Sometimes the label on the box bearinos come
in doesn't tell the truth. Check the bearinas to
confirm their size. They will be standard ( ~TD)
rear-main seal comes with the engine's
like the one shown or so many thousandths
lower-end or over-haul gasket set.
undersized: -010, -020, etc.
Size the Bearings-Refer t o vour crank-
shaft inspectioi records t d determine
which size bearings to use-standard or
0.010, 0.020, 0.030, etc. undersize. For
example, the standard main-bearing-
journal diameter for all small blocks, ex-
cept for the 351W, is 2.2486 in. with a
tolerance range of 2.2482-2.2490 in.
If your main-bearing journals are in
this range, you'll obviously use standard
bearings. However, if they mike some
amount less you'll need the same amount
of undersize bearing as the difference
from the standard nominal bearing size.
Simply put, if a bearing journal mikes
2.2386 in. in diameter, the proper under-
size bearing to use is 2.2486- 2.2386 =
0.0100-in. undersize. So, t o determine if
and how much of an undersize bearing
you need, subtract the diameter of your
bearing journals from the standard nom-
inal bearing-journal diameter.
There are two types of rear-main bear-
ing seals you can install in your engine.
They are the rope and split-seal types.
The rope seal will probably be included in
your gasket set. It consists of two pieces
of graphite-impregnated rope. The split-
lip seal is made from neoprene, also in
two pieces. If you want this seal instead
of the rope type, you'll have to lay out
another three bucks or so. My reasons for
preferring the split seal are the rope seal
is more difficult t o install. And, the rope
seal, as initially installed, creates more
friction,-meaning the torque required t o
start the crankshaft turning will be ap-
proximately 10 ft. Ibs. more. However,
the relative effectiveness of the two seals
is the same for street operation and the
initial high friction of the rope seal drops
off considerably during the first few hours
of engine operation t o the point where
there shouldn't be any distinguishable
difference between the two types of seals.
Check Bearing-to-Journal Clearance-You
have already determined the size bearing fl
to use by measuring the bearing journals
with a micrometer. Due to the accuracy
of the mikes and the close tolerances to
which bearings are manufactured, direct
clearance checks are unnecessary, assum-
ing the right bearings got in the right
boxes. However, we all know that assum-
ing can cause considerable trouble and
checking just takes time.
The most simplified clearance check
is to install the crankshaft in its bearings
in the block and turn it by hand t o see
if it rotates freely. The other, more in-
volved method of checking clearances is
with Plastigage. Because both methods
are done in the normal crankshaft instal-
lation sequence let's get on with the in-
stallation and save some words in the
process.
Install the Main-Bearing Inserts-With the
engine block on its back, wipe the bearing
bores clean so there won't be any dirt
trapped between the bearing inserts and
their bores after they are installed. The
same thing goes for the bearings. Wipe
them clean using paper towels and a sol-
vent such as lacquer thinner. Clean both
their front and back sides. The actual
bearing surface will be coated with a
white residue as it comes out of the box.
Wipe it off and you'll know the business
side of the bearing is clean and free from
dirt.
Each bearing half has a bent down tab
at one end. The top bearings, the ones
Thrust-plate bolts don't have to be torqued
much-8 ft . Ibs . for the countersunk type and
10ft. Ibs. for the hex head .
Wide flanges of a crankshaft thrust bearing
distinguishe it from the single-purpose radial
bearing. Thrust bearing locates in the number-3
position in the center.
rear-main seal comes with the engine's
lower-end or over-haul gasket set.
Size the Bearings-Refer to your crank-
shaft inspection records to determine
which size bearings to use-standard or
0.010, 0.020, 0.030, etc. undersize. For
example, the standard main-bearing-
journal diameter for all small blocks, ex-
cept for the 35lW, is 2.2486 in. with a
tolerance range of 2.2482-2.2490 in .
If your main-bearing journals are in
this range, you'll obviously use standard
bearings. However , if they mike some
amount less you'll need the same amount
of undersize bearing as the difference
from the standard nominal bearing size.
Simply put, if a bearing journal mikes
2.2386 in . in diameter, the proper under-
size bearing to use is 2.2486- 2.2386 =
O.OIOO-in. undersize. So, to determine if
and how much of an undersize bearing
you need, subtract the diameter of your
bearing journals from the standard nom-
inal bearing-journal diameter.
Crankshaft and related components. HP289 uses an additional counterweight which locates behind
the timing-chain sprocket with a roll pin. Pilot bearing and flywheel are for standard transmissions
only. A flexplate is used with automatic transmissions. Photo courtesy Ford.
Sometimes the label on the box bearings come
in doesn't tell the truth. Check the bearings to
confirm their size. They will be standard (STD)
like the one shown or so many thousandths
undersized : -010, -020, etc.
There are two types of rear-main bear-
ing seals you can install in your engine.
They are the rope and split-seal types.
The rope seal will probably be included in
your gasket set. It consists of two pieces
of graphite-impregnated rope. The split-
lip seal is made from neoprene, also in
two pieces . If you want this seal instead
of the rope type, you'll have to layout
another three bucks or so. My reasons for
preferring the split seal are the rope seal
is more difficult to install. And, the rope
seal, as initially installed, creates more
friction, "meaning the torque required to
start the crankshaft turning will be ap-
proximately 10 ft. lbs. more. However,
the relative effectiveness of the two seals
is the same for street operation and the
initial high friction of the rope seal drops
off considerably during the first few hours
of engine operation to the point where
there shouldn't be any distinguishable
difference between the two types of seals.
Check Bearing-to-J oumal Clearance-You
have already determined the size bearings
to use by measuring the bearing journals
with a micrometer. Due to the accuracy
of the mikes and the close tolerances to
which bearings are manufactured, direct
clearance checks are unnecessary, assum-
ing the right bearings got in the right
boxes. However, we all know that assum-
ing can cause considerable. trouble and
checking just takes time.
The most simplified clearance check
is to install the crankshaft in its bearings
in the block and turn it by hand to see
if it rotates freely. The other, more in-
volved method of checking clearances is
with Plastigage . Because both methods
are done in the normal crankshaft instal-
lation sequence let 's get on with the in-
stallation and save some words in the
process .
Install the Main-Bearing Inserts-With the
engine block on its back, wipe the bearing
bores clean so there won't be any dirt
trapped between the bearing inserts and
their bores after they are installed. The
same thing goes for the bearings. Wipe
them clean using paper towels and a sol-
vent such as lacquer thinner. Clean both
their front and back sides. The actual
beari ng surface will be coated with a
white residue as it comes out of the box.
Wipe it off and you'II know the business
side of the bearing is clean and free from
dirt.
Each bearing half has a bent down tab
at one end. The top bearings, the ones
99
Before installing the bearing inserts, wipe the bear
Bearings with grooves and oil holes go in the block
requires a little extra push to get them seated.
,ing bores clean as well as the back of the inserts.
and the plain ones go in the caps. Thrust bearings
that go in the block, are grooved. Their
tabs are located off-center. The bottom
halves aren't grooved and their tabs are
centered. Locating the tabs in this man-
ner helps prevent the bearings from being
installed wrong. Install the bearings in the
block by first fitting the tab of each bear-
ing in the notch at the edge of the bearing
bore. Fit this end of the bearing flush
with the edge of the bearing bore. Hold
it in this position with a finger or thumb
while you force the bearing into place by
pushing down on the opposite end with
your other thumb. All the bearing halves
will go in with little effort except for the
center one. It also serves as a thrust bear-
ing, and will require more force because
the thrust flanges fit tightly around the
bearing web.
Before installing the other bearing
halves in the caps, lightly file the cap-to-
block mating surfaces to ensure the caps
will fit properly in their registers. To do
this you'll need a fine-tooth, large flat
file. Lay the file on your bench and stand
a cap up on the file. Lightly run the cap
over the file a few times when holding the
cap square against the file. Be careful not
to remove any material from the cap
except for nicks or burrs-small projec-
tions which are raised above the normal
surface of the cap. After doing this install
the non-grooved bearing halves into the
caps.
Rear-Main-Bearing Seals-If you have the
split-lip type rear-main seal, you can
install it now providing you aren't clear-
ance checking with Plastigage. However,
if you have the rope type, you'll have t o
wait till later if you want to check main-
bearing clearances. With this in mind let's
get on with installing both types of seals.
Split-LipSeal Installation-If your engine
was originally equipped with a rope seal-
cap and block mating surfaces. Rotate the
seal halves in the block and cap so one
end projects approximately 318 in. up
from the block and cap mating surfaces,
and so the seal will fit together within the
block and cap when the cap is fitted t o
the block.
RopeSeal Installation-Put the seal in the
block first. Lay the rope in the groove
edgeways. Push it in with your thumb,
leaving both ends of the seal extending
above the block and cap mating surfaces.
With the seal in place, work it into the
groove with a cylinder-I use a 1-112-in.
socket-and a hammer to tap on it as you
work the cylinder back and forth in a
rolling motion. You don't have to pound
it in, just use a light tapping motion. When
it appears the seal has filled the groove,
A large socket and a brass hammer being used t o install a rope seal in the block. Work around the
seal until it is all the way down in its groove, then trim the ends flush with the block.
it was as it came from the factory-there
will be a sharp pin centered in the seal
groove in the rear-main cap-it'll have to
come out. To remove the pin use a small
punch to drive it out. Presumably you've
already installed a bearing in the cap, so
remove it now so it won't get damaged
and reinstall it after you have the seal in
place. To remove the pin, place the cap
down over the end of a 1-in.-wide piece
of wood-so when you are driving the pin
down out of the seal groove, the load
taken by the cap is directly below the pin.
Otherwise, the cap can be sprung, making
it unsuitable for use.
With the rope-seal locating pin out of
the main cap fill the pin hole with silicone
sealer, install the seal and reinstall the
bearing insert. Lightly coat the seal halves
with oil, and while installing them don't
let oil get on the block and cap mating
surfaces. If it does, wipe it off with a
paper towel and solvent. The lip of the
seal must point toward the front of the
engine when installed. Also, don't line
the ends of the seal halves up with the
trim the excess ends off flush with the
block using a sharp knife or a single-edge
razor blade.
Now you can install the other half in
the bearing cap. It'll be more difficult to
handle just because the cap will be clumsy
t o handle while you're installing the seal.
It's a whole lot easier if you cradle the
cap in something like a vise. Don't clamp
the cap in a vise. Just open the jaws far
enough to permit the cap to sit square.
You can then install the seal as you did in
the block. When the seal is bottomed in
its groove, trim the ends off flush.
Get Your Crankshaft Out of Storage-With
the main bearings in place you are now
ready to drop your crankshaft in the
block. If you are using the rope-type rear-
main-bearing seal and are going to check
bearing clearances, or have the split-lip-
type seal and are going t o check bearing
clearances using Plastigage, don't install
the crankshaft with the seals. Anyway,
you can now reintroduce your crankshaft
t o daylight. Use solvent and paper towels
t o clean all of the bearing journals of their
Before installing the bearing inserts, wipe the bearing bores clean as well as the back of the inserts.
Bearings with grooves and oil holes go in the block and the plain ones go in the caps. Thrust bearings
requires a little extra push to get them seated.
cap and block mating surfaces. Rotate the
seal halves in the block and cap so one
end projects approximately 3/8 in. up
from the block and cap mating surfaces,
and so the seal will fit together within the
block and cap when the cap is fitted to
the block.
Rope-8eal Installation-Put the seal in the
block first. Lay the rope in the groove
edgeways. Push it in with your thumb,
leaving both ends of the seal extending
above the block and cap mating surfaces.
With the seal in place, work it into the
groove with a cylinder-I use a I-I/2-in.
socket-and a hammer to tap on it as you
work the cylinder back and forth in a
rolling motion. You don't have to pound
it in,just use a light tapping motion. When
it appears the seal has filled the groove,
that go in the block, are grooved. Their
tabs are located off-center. The bottom
halves aren't grooved and their tabs are
centered. Locating the tabs in this man-
ner helps prevent the bearings from being
installed wrong. Install the bearings in the
block by first fitting the tab of each bear-
ing in the notch at the edge of the bearing
bore. Fit this end of the bearing flush
with the edge of the bearing bore. Hold
it in this position with a finger or thumb
while you force the bearing into place by
pushing down on the opposite end with
your other thumb. All the bearing halves
will go in with little effort except for the
center one. It also serves as a thrust bear-
ing, and will require more force because
the thrust flanges fit tightly around the
bearing web.
A large socket and a brass hammer being used to install a rope seal in the block. Work around the
seal until it is all the way down in its groove, then trim the ends flush with the block.
Before installing the other bearing
halves in the caps, lightly file the cap-to-
block mating surfaces to ensure the caps
will fit properly in their registers. To do
this you'll need a fine-tooth , large flat
file . Lay the file on your bench and stand
a cap up on the file. Lightly run the cap
over the file a few times when holding the
cap square against the file . Be careful not
to remove any material from the cap
except for nicks or burrs-small projec-
tions which are raised above the normal
surface of the cap. After doing this install
the non-grooved bearing halves into the
caps.
Rear-Main-Bearing Seals-If you have the
split-lip type rear-main seal , you can
install it now providing you aren't clear-
ance checking with Plastigage. However,
if you have the rope type, you'll have to
wait till later if you want to check main-
bearing clearances. With thi s in mind let's
get on with installing both types of seals .
Split-Lip-8eal Installation-If your engine
was originally equipped with a rope seal-
100
it was as it came from the factory-there
will be a sharp pin cen tered in the seal
groove in the rear-main cap-it'll have to
come out. To remove the pin use a small
punch to drive it out. Presumably you've
already installed a bearing in the cap, so
remove it now so it won't get damaged
and reinstall it after you have the seal in
place. To remove the pin, place the cap
down over the end of a l-in.-wide piece
of wood-so when you are driving the pin
down out of the seal groove, the load
taken by the cap is directly below the pin.
Otherwise, the cap can be sprung, making
it unsuitable for use.
With the rope-seal locating pin out of
the main cap ftll the pin hole with silicone
sealer, install the seal and reinstall the
bearing insert . Lightly coat the seal halves
with oil, and while installing them don't
let oil get on the block and cap mating
surfaces . If it does, wipe it off with a
paper towel and solvent. The lip of the
seal must point toward the front of the
engine when installed. Also, don' t line
the ends of the seal halves up with the
trim the excess ends off flush with the
block using a sharp knife or a single-edge
razor blade .
Now you can install the other half in
the bearing cap. It'll be more difficult to
handle just because the cap will be clumsy
to handle while you're installing the seal.
It's a whole lot easier if you cradle the
cap in something like a vise. Don't clamp
the cap in a vise. Just open the jaws far
enough to permit the cap to sit square.
You can then install the seal as you did in
the block. When the seal is bottomed in
its groove, trim the ends off flush .
Get Your Crankshaft Ou t of Storage-Wi th
the main bearings in place you are now
ready to drop your crankshaft in the
block. If you are using the rope-type rear-
main-bearing seal and are going to check
bearing clearances, or have the split-lip-
type seal and are going to check bearing
clearances using Plastigage, don't install
the crankshaft with the seals. Anyway,
you can now reintroduce your crankshaft
to daylight. Use solvent and paper towels
to clean all of the bearing journals of their
HECKING JOURNAL-TO-BEAR ING
LEARANCES
OTATING METHOD
enerally the simplest method of
irming you've installed the correct
bearings for a given size bearing
nal is, first rotate the journal in the
aring or vice versa to check for insuf-
cient clearance. I f the rotation is free
's OK. To check Lor excessive clearance
t o rotate i t 90 t o the normal direc-
of rotation. I f some play, or move-
t is felt, the clearance is too much.
s look at how this is applied t o crank
ankshaft Bearings-Install the crank-
aft using the methods outlined in this
apter. I f you are using a rope-type oil
don't install it until after you've
ed the bearings. With the crank-
in place, the bearing caps installed
heir bolts torqued t o specification,
haft by hand. If i t ro-
tes freely the bearing clearances are
ough. To check for excessive bearing
earance, l i ft the crankshaft by its nose.
up and down. I f you
't feel any movement, or play, clear-
is not excessive and you can proceed
your engine buildup.
onnecting-Rod Bearings -Connecting-
d bearings can be checked with the
ankshaft out of the block. This is be-
use the pistons are not installed i n their
es for the check. To check the rod
rings you'll first have t o install the
s on their journals in their normal
itions, one at a time. Oil the bearings
oil. After torquing the
uts to specification rotate the rod back
nd forth on the iournal. I f it's free
sideways, or at least try to. If there's
no play then the clearance is not exces-
sive and the bearings are OK.
I
PLASTIGAGE METH
Plastigage i s a s t
when installed between a bearing and
journal, flattens or squeezes out t o
width inversely proportional to the cle
ance between the journal and the bearin
Plastigage comes in a paper sleeve with
printed scale to measure the flatte
Plastigage. It reads out directly in
sandths of an inch bearing-to-jo
clearance. You bought green Plastiga
measure 0.001 -0.003-in. clearance r
To use Plastigage, cut a length
which coincides with the bearing w
The bearing and journal must be
from any oil because Plastigage is oi l
soluble, and any oil will cause a fa1
reading. Lay the Plastigage on the too
the bearing journal or centered i n t
bearing, and carefully install the cap wi
the crankshaft laying in the block on I
new bearings, but without i t s rear-ma
oil seal, or the piston and rod assem
positioned against its bearing jour
Torque the bolts or nuts t o specificat
Be careful not to rotate the bearing
journal relative to each other, other
the Plastigage wi l l smear and you'll
t o remove the cap and start over again
After you've finished torquing the ca
remove i t and measure the bearing c
ance by comparing the squeezed
width wi th the printed scale on the PI
gage sleeve.
It's not necessary to check all the bear-
ings unless you want t o be particularly
careful. But one thinq for sure, you can't
Sharp pi n in the rear main-bearing-cap seal
groove prevents the rope seal from rotating-
don't remove it. I f you're installing a split-lip
seal, remove the pi n and fill the hole with sili-
cone sealer to prevent a leak.
Other half of rope seal is installed ~n cap as ~t
was i n the block, using a large-diameter socket
and mallet. Cap is not clamped i n the vise, it's
just cradled. Tri m the seal ends even with the
cap.
Using Plastigage to check bearing clearance. Lay a strip of Plastigage the full length of the bearing
journal, then install the bearing and cap and torque bolts to specification. Make sure al/ bearing
journals are free from oil and al/ the other bearing caps are torqued in place first.
CHECKING JOURNAL-TO-BEARING
CLEARANCES
ROTATING METHOD
Generally the simplest method of
confirming you've installed the correct
size bearings for a given size bearing
journal is, first rotate the journal in the
bearing or vice versa to check for insuf
ficient clearance. If the rotation is free
it's OK. To check for excessive clearance
try to rotate it 90 to the normal direc-
tion of rotation. If some play, or move-
ment is felt, the clearance is too much.
Let's look at how this is applied to crank
and rod bearings.
Crankshaft Bearings-Install the crank
shaft using the methods outlined in this
chapter. If you are using a rope-type oil
seal, don't install it until after you've
checked the bearings. With the crank
shaft in place, the bearing caps installed
and their bolts torqued to specification,
rotate the crankshaft by hand. If it roo
tates freely the bearing clearances are
enough. To check for excessive bearing
clearance, lift the crankshaft by its nose.
Try to wiggle it up and down. If you
don't feel any movement, or play, clear
ance is not excessive and you can proceed
with your engine buildup.
Connecting-Rod Bearings - Connecti ng-
rod bearings can be checked with the
crankshaft out of the block. This is be-
cause the pistons are not installed in their
bores for the check. To check the rod
bearings you'll first have to install the
rods on their journals in their normal
positions, one at a time. Oil the bearings
well with motor oil. After torquing the
nuts to specification rotate the rod back
and forth on the journal. If it's free
there is enough clearance. Now wiggle it
sideways, or at least try to. If there's
no play then the clearance is not exces-
sive and the bearings are OK.
PLASTIGAGE METHOD
Plastigage is a strip of wax which,
when installed between a bearing and its
journal, flattens or squeezes out to a
width inversely proportional to the clear
ance between the journal and the bearing.
Plastigage comes in a paper sleeve with a
printed scale to measure the flattened
Plastigage. It reads out directly in thou
sandths of an inch bearing-to-jou rnal
clearance. You bought green Plastigage to
measUre 0.001-0.003in. clearance range.
To use Plastigage, cut a length of it
which coincides with the bearing width.
The bearing and journal must be free
from any oil because Plastigage is oil-
soluble, and any oil will cause a false
reading. Lay the Plastigage on the top of
the bearing journal or centered in the
bearing, and carefully install the Gap with
the crankshaft laying in the block on its
new bearings, but without its rearmain
oil seal, or the piston and rod assembly
positioned against its bearing journal.
Torque the bolts or nuts to specification.
Be careful not to rotate the bearing and
journal relative to each other, otherwise
the Plastigage will smear and you'll have
to remove the cap and start over again.
After you've finished torquing the cap,
remove it and measure the bearing clear-
ance by comparing the squeezed wax
width with the printed scale on the Plasti
gage sleeve.
It's not necessary to check all the bear-
ings unless you want to be particularly
careful. But one thing for sure, you can't
be faulted for checking to make certain.
Sharp pin in the rear mainbearingcap seal
groove prevents the rope seal from rotating-
don't remove it. If you're installing a splitlip
seal, remove the pin and fill the hole with sili
cone sealer to prevent a leak.
Other half of rope seal is installed in cap as it
was in the block, using a largediameter socket
and mallet. Cap is not clamped in the vise, it's
just cradled. Trim the seal ends even with the
cap.
101
Prior t o installing the crankshaft, wipe main Carefully lower th- into plac- ---
bearings with a paper towel soaked i n lacquer
the end of the crankshaft t o support it.
thinner t o remove the white residue and any
di rt which may be deposited on them. Spread
oil around the bearings t o coat them-oil the
seal too.
protective oil coating. They will have col-
lected some dust and dirt particles by
now and spray-type oil is not suitable for
engine assembly anyway.
If you are installing your crankshaft t o
stay, check its oil holes again for dirt. This
is your last chance to catch any contarn-
inants that will otherwise be pumped in
oil directly to the bearings and journals
the instant your engine is started. Oil the
bearings in the block as well as those in
the caps. Also spread some oil on the seal.
Lower the crank carefully into the block
i n d give it a spin once it's seated on the
bearings. Now you're ready for the caps.
With their bolts lightly oiled and loosely
installed in the caps, position them on
their bearing journals using the cast-in
numbers and arrows to determine their
position and direction. The arrow should
point toward the front of the engine and
ihe number will be its position. The rear-
main cap won't have an arrow or number.
Its position and direction are obvious, but
the others are not.
Seal the Rear-Main Cap-For final crank-
shaft installation, the rear-main-bearing
cap and cylinder block parting line must
be sealed, otherwise it will leak. Run a
small bead of silicone sealer-about 1116-
inch wide-in the corners of the cylinder-
block's rear-main-bearing register from
the back edge of the block to even with
the front edge of the crankshaft oil-slinger
groove. Also, apply another 1116-inch
wide strip of sealer to the cap in from
both edges of the cap and in line with the
seal. Stop about 118 inch short of the seal.
Refer to the sketch for a pictorial explan-
ation of applying the sealer. Oil the seal
before installing the cap.
Don't Tighten the Main-Bearing Caps
Down Yet-Before threading the beariner-
Make sure bearing inserts are clean by wiping them off, then coat them with oil. Do the same t o the
crankshaft main-bearing journals. Oil the bolt threads of the cap bolts. Seat the bearing caps i n their
registers. Locate one side of the cap i n its register, then tap the opposite side into place by hitting
the side of the cap at about a 45" angle.
SEALER
Drawing shows how t o position a split-lip-type seal. It should project approximately 3/8 in. out of
the block and the same amount from the opposite side of the bearing cap so the two will engage
when the cap is installed. Apply a small bead of silicone as shown just prior t o installing the cap. I n
the other photo I'm applying some sealer t o the ends of a rope seal urior t o installing the cap.
cap bolts in the block, thewcaps must ge
located in their -registers. If the bolts are
102
Prior to installing the crankshaft, wipe main
bearings with a paper towel soaked in lacquer
thinner to remove the white residue and any
dirt which may be deposited on them. Spread
oil around the bearings to coat them-oil the
seal too.
protective oil coating. They will have col-
lected some dust and dirt particles by
now and spray-type oil is not suitable for
engine assembly anyway.
If you are installing your crankshaft to
stay, check its oil holes again for dirt. This
is your last chance to catch any contam-
inants that will otherwise be pumped in
oil directly to the bearings and journals
the instant your engine is started. Oil the
bearings in the block as well as those in
the caps. Also spread some oil on the seal.
Lower the crank carefully into the block
and give it a spin once it's seated on the
bearings. Now you're ready for the caps.
With their bolts lightly oiled and loosely
installed in the caps, position them on
their bearing journals using the cast-in
numbers and arrows to determine their
position and direction . The arrow should
point toward the front of the engine and
the number will be its position. The rear-
main cap won't have an arrow or number.
Its position and direction are obvious, but
the others are not.
Seal the Rear-Main Cap-For final crank
shaft installation, the rear-main-bearing
cap and cylinder block parting line must
be sealed, otherwise it will leak. Run a
small bead of silicone sealer-about 1/16-
inch wide-in the corners of the cylinder-
block's rear-main-bearing register from
the back edge of the block to even with
the front edge of the crankshaft oil-slinger
groove. Also, apply another 1/16-inch
wide strip of sealer to the cap in from
both edges of the cap and in line with the
seal. Stop about 1/8 inch short of the seal .
Refer to the sketch for a pictorial explan-
ation of applying the sealer. Oil the seal
before installing the cap.
Don't Tighten the Main-Bearing Caps
Down Yet-Before threading the bearing-
cap bolts in the block, the caps must be
located in their registers . If the bolts are
102
Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Watch your fingers at the rear seal. You'll need a finger in
the end of the crankshaft to support it.
Make sure bearing inserts are clean by Wiping them off, then coat them with oil. Do the same to the
crankshaft main-bearing journals. Oil the bolt threads of the cap bolts. Seat the bearing caps in their
registers. Locate one side of the cap in its register, then tap the opposite side into place by hitting
the side of the cap at about a 45 angle.
SEALER
Drawing shows how to position a split-liptype seal. It should project approximately 3/8 in. out of
the block and the same amount from the opposite side of the bearing cap so the two will engage
when the cap is installed. Apply a small bead of silicone as shown just prior to installing the cap. In
the other photo I'm applying some sealer to the ends of a rope seal prior to installing the cap.
tightened in an at t empt t o draw t he caps
i nt o place, you may end up ruining your
block and some of t he bearing caps. The
edges of t he bearing register or caps may
end up being broken off. Locate one edge
of each cap against its register, then t ap
t he cap with a hammer on its opposite
side at about a 45" angle while pushing
down on the cap. It should snap i nt o
place. After the caps are in place you can
run the bolts down, but don' t tighten
them yet .
If you have t he rope-type seal, now is
t he time t o see how much t orque is re-
quired t o turn your crankshaft against its
friction. Tighten down t he rear-main cap.
only. Do each bolt progressively. Don' t
run one bolt down. snug it UD and t oraue
i t , then go t o the' ot her onk. The right I'm torquing the rear-main cap down first to check the friction caused by the rope seal. Using the
way t o do this is to r un them bot h down,
damper bolt and washer installed in the nose of the crank, torque due to friction measured 13 ft. Ibs.
snug one, then the ot her and torque
them bot h a little at a time until bot h
bolts are toraued 60-70 ft. lbs. for all
engines but thk 351W. If you have a Boss
302 don' t install t he out er main-cap bolts
yet . Torque 351W main-bearing bolts
95-105 ft . lbs. Now, install the damper
attaching bolt and washer so you can t urn
t he crankshaft wi t h your torque wrench.
Expect 10-15 ft . lbs. t o t urn it. Now,
you'll know one of t he major causes of
t he high effort required t o t urn your
crankshaft during the rest of the engine
assembly.
Seat the Thrust Bearing-Using the same
technique you used for torquing the rear-
main-cap bolts, secure the others except
for t he center cap-the one with the thrust
bearing. Tighten its bolts finger-tight,
then line up the bearing thrust faces by
forcing t he crankshaft back and forth in
-
its bearings. Use a couple of big screw-
Before tightening the center main-bearing-cap bolts, seat the bearing inserts first. Wiggle the crank-
drivers to pry between two other bearing
shaft back-and-forth, then hold i t forward while you torque the bolts: 95-105 ft. Ibs. for the 351W
and 60-70 f t . Ibs. for the others.
caps and crankshaft throws and counter-
weights. After doing this a few times, pry
the crankshaft forward. Hold i t in this
position while you torque t he t wo bolts
whc h secure t he thrust-bearing cap. Check
crankshaft turning torque now and you
should find a small increase.
Crankshaft End-Play-Your crankshaft
end-play should be 0.004-0.008 in. with
a 0.012-in, maximum. To check end-play
accurately, a dial indicator is the best.
However, if you don' t have one, feeler
gauges will work. To use the feeler gauges,
pry the crankshaft in one direction, then
measure between the crankshaft' s thrust
face and bearing. However, if you are
among the affluent and possess a dial
indicator, mount i t with its plunger paral-
lel to the crankshaft center line and with
the plunger tip firmly against a flat surface
on the crankshaft's nose or flywheel
mounting flange. Pry the crank away
from the indicator, then zero t he dial
gauge. Now, pry t he crank in t he ot her
direction t o take up its end-play. Read
total end-play directly. Repeat this a few
times for verification.
If, by rare chance, end-play is under
t he 0.004-in. minimum, the thrust-bear-
ing flanges will have t o be thinned, mean-
ing t he crankshaft must be removed! Thin
the thrust bearing's front flange by laying
some 320 grit sandpaper on afl at surface
and lapping away as much bearing mater-
ial as required t o bring end-play within
tolerance. Before doing any sanding, use a
micrometer t o measure the width across
t he bearing flanges. Check it at bot h ends
and in t he middle. Do bot h bearing halves
and record the initial results. While sanding
the bearings, hold the bearing straight up
and avoid any rocking mot i on. Periodically
measure the bearing t o make sure you are
sanding t he material evenly and not ex-
cessively. When you've matched bot h
bearing halves, clean and reinstall them
an'd the crankshaft following the correct
procedure. Check end-play 'again t o con-
firm what you did had t he right effect.
If t he crank's end-play exceeds 0. 012
in., trade your crankshaft in on a crank-
shaft kit and let the reconditioner worry
about the worn one. Having t oo much
end clearance is highly unlikely consider-
ing you' ve inspected your crankshaft and
declared i t sound or have had it recon-
ditioned or replaced. However, unlikely or
not , end-play is one of those things which
must be checked regardless of the conse-
quences. Like the man says, "pay now or
pay later." What you'll have t o pay now
will be a fraction of the cost later.
PISTON AND CONNECTING-ROD
INSTALLATION
If you've yet t o assemble your pistons
and connecting rods, refer back t o page 70
for how it's done. However, if they are
assembled you can prepare them for in-
stallation i nt o your engine. The equipment
you'll need includes a small flat file, a
ring compressor, hammer, a large t omat o
can with about a half quart ofclean mot or
tightened in an attempt to draw the caps
into place, you may end up ruining your
block and some of the bearing caps. The
edges of the bearing register or caps may
end up being broken off. Locate one edge
of each cap against its register, then tap
the cap with a hammer on its opposite
side at about a 45 angle while pushing
down on the cap. It should snap into
place. After the caps are in place you can
run the bolts down, but don't tighten
them yet.
If you have the rope-type seal, now is
the time to see how much torque is re-
quired to turn your crankshaft against its
friction. Tighten down the rear-main cap,
only. Do each bolt progressively. Don't
run one bolt down, snug it up and torque
it, then go to the other one. The right
way to do this is to run them both down,
snug one, then the other and torque
them both a little at a time until both
bolts are torqued 60-70 ft. Ibs. for all
engines but the 351 W. If you have a Boss
302 don't install the outer main-cap bolts
yet. Torque 351 W main-bearing bolts
95-105 ft. Ibs. Now, install the damper
attaching bolt and washer so you can turn
the crankshaft with your torque wrench.
Expect 10-15 ft. Ibs. to turn it. Now,
you'll know one of the major causes of
the high effort required to turn your
crankshaft during the rest of the engine
assembly.
Seat the Thrust Bearing-Using the same
technique you used for torquing the rear-
main-cap bolts, secure the others except
for the center cap-the one with the thrust
bearing. Tighten its bolts finger-tight,
then line up the bearing thrust faces by
forcing the crankshaft back and forth in
its bearings. Use a couple of big screw-
drivers to pry between two other bearing
caps and crankshaft throws and counter-
weights. After doing this a few times, pry
the crankshaft forward. Hold it in this
position while you torque the two bolts
which secure the thrust-bearing cap. Check
crankshaft turning torque now and you
should find a small increase.
Crankshaft End-Play - Your crankshaft
end-play should be 0.004-0.008 in. with
a 0.012-in. maximum. To check end-play
accurately, a dial indicator is the best.
However, if you don't have one, feeler
gauges will work. To use the feeler gauges,
pry the crankshaft in one direction, then
measure between the crankshaft's thrust
face and bearing. However, if you are
among the affluent and possess a dial
indicator, mount it with its plunger paral-
lel to the crankshaft center line and with
the plunger tip firmly against a flat surface
on the crankshaft's nose or flywheel
mounting flange. Pry the crank away
from the indicator, then zero the dial
gauge. Now, pry the crank in the other
direction to take up its end-play. Read
total end-play directly. Repeat this a few
times for verification.
I'm torquing the rear-main cap down first to check the friction caused by the rope seal. Using the
damper bolt and washer installed in the nose of the crank, torque due to friction measured 13 ft. Ibs.
Before tightening the center mainbearing-cap bolts, seat the bearing inserts first. Wiggle the crank-
shaft backandforth, then hold it forward while you torque the bolts: 95-105 ft.lbs. for the 351W
and 60-70 ft. Ibs. for the others.
If, by rare chance, endplay is under
the 0.004-in. minimum, the thrustbear-
ing flanges will have to be thinned, mean-
ing the crankshaft must be removed! Thin
the thrust bearing's front flange by laying
some 320 grit sandpaper on a flat surface
and lapping away as much bearing mater-
ial as required to bring end-play within
tolerance. Before doing any sanding, use a
micrometer to measure the width across
the bearing flanges. Check it at both ends
and in the middle. Do both bearing halves
and record the initial results. While sanding
the bearings, hold the bearing straight up
and avoid any rocking motion. Periodically
measure the bearing to make sure you are
sanding the material evenly and not ex-
cessively. When you've matched both
bearing halves, clean and reinstall them
and the crankshaft following the correct
procedure. Check end-play' again to con-
firm what you did had the right effect.
If the crank's end-play exceeds 0.012
in., trade your crankshaft in on a crank-
shaft kit and let the reconditioner worry
about the worn one. Having too much
end clearance is highly unlikely consider-
ing you've inspected your crankshaft and
declared it sound or have had it recon-
ditioned or replaced. However, unlikely or
not, end-play is one of those things which
must be checked regardless of the conse-
quences. Like the man says, "pay now or
pay later." What you'll have to pay now
will be a fraction of the cost later.
INSTALLATION
If you've yet to assemble your pistons
and connecting rods, refer back to page 70
for how it's done. However, if they are
assembled you can prepare them for in-
stallation into your engine. The equipment
you'll need includes a small flat me, a
ring compressor, hammer, a large tomato
can with about a half quart of clean motor
103
1
Ch.lR lVUl llllV .dapa V-IYI- .,,a rings on their pistons. Square each ring in its bore like
I'm doing with this old piston. Use your feeler gauges t o check end gap.
Checking crankshaft end-play on this Boss 302.
Although less accurate, the same thing can be
done with feeler gauges by taking up the slack
in end-play in one direction and measuring
between the bearing insert and the crankshaft
thrust faces. Photo courtesy Ford.
oil in it, an oil can and some bearing-
journal protectors to slip over the rod
bolts. You should consider a ring expander
too, even though it's possible to install
the rings without one. The expander en-
sures the pistons won't get scratched or
the rings bent during the installation. If
you can't readily pick up a couple of
bearing-journal protectors at your auto-
motive-parts store, two 2-inch lengths of
318-in. rubber fuel hose will suffice.
Cap Your Rings-Piston rings are manu-
factured t o close tolerances t o fit specific
bore sizes, however, you should check
their end-gaps just the same. Both com-
pression rings should have a 0.010-0.020-
inch gap, or more precisely, 0.004-inch
gap for each inch of bore diamter. For
example, the compression rings for a 4-
inch bore should be gapped at 0.004 x 4 =
0.016 in. However, if your ring gaps are
in the 0.010-0.020-in. range, they'll be
all right. Gap range for the two oil-ring
side rails is much wider at 0.015-0.055 in.
To check a piston ring's end gap, install
it in a cylinder bore. Carefully fit the ring
in the bore and square it up using an old
piston or a tomato can. There's no need
t o push the ring down the bore more than
a half-inch unless your block hasn't been
rebored. In this case you should push the
ring down the bore t o the bottom of its
travel. The reason is taper in a cylinder
causes a ring t o close near the bottom of
the stroke and minimum end-gap clearance
is what should be checked t o prevent the
ends of a ring from butting when the
engine is at maximum operating tempera-
ture. If any of the gaps are too large,
return the complete set of rings for
replacement. If a gap is too small, it can
be corrected by filing or grinding the end
of the ring.
When filing or grinding a piston ring
the first rule is to f i e or grind the end of
the ring with the motion from its outside
edge toward its inside edge. This is par-
ticularly important with moly rings. The
moly filling on the outside periphery will
chip off from the outside edge. When
filing, don't hold the ring and file in your
hands, clamp the file in a vise or to a
bench with a C-clamp or Vise-Grip pliers
and move the ring against the file. You'll
have better control using this method.
For grhding a ring, use a thin grinding
disc, one that will fit between the two
ends. Just make certain the rotation of
the disc is in the right direction. Also, be
sure the ring is securely held so you don't
break the ring as you grind it.
Break any sharp edges from each
piston-ring end that you filed or ground
using a very fine toothed file or some
400-grit sandpaper. The inside edge will
have the biggest burr, the outside edge
the least-if it has any at all-and the sides
will be somewhere in between. Just touch
the edges with your file or sandpaper.
Remove only enough material so you
can't feel any sharp edges with your finger
tip.
When you've finished one complete
ring set, keep it with the piston and rod
assembly that's t o go in the bore you
used for checking their end-gaps. Repeat
this procedure until you've checked and
fitted all the rings. Also, it's best t o keep
To increase ring end gap, file one end of the
ring with a fine-toothed file. With the file firmly
clamped, move the ring against the file in the
direction of the arrow, Lightly touch thecorners
of the end you filed t o remove any burrs which
may have developed.
Checking crankshaft end-play on this Boss 302.
Although less accurate, the same thing can be
done with feeler gauges by taking up the slack
in end-plav in one direction and measuring
between the bearing insert and the crankshaft
thrust faces. Photo courtesy Ford .
oil in it, an oil can and some bearing-
journal protectors to slip over the rod
bolts. You should consider a ring expander
too, even though it's possible to install
the rings without one. The expander en-
sures the pistons won't get scratched or
the rings bent during the installation. If
you can't readily pick up a couple of
bearing-journal protectors at your auto-
motive-parts store, two 2-inch lengths of
3/8-in. rubber fuel hose will suffice.
Gap Your Rings-Piston rings are manu-
factured to close tolerances to fit specific
bore sizes, however, you should check
their end-gaps just the same. Both com-
pression rings should have a 0 .010-0.020-
inch gap, or more precisely, 0.004-inch
gap for each inch of bore diamter. For
example, the compression rings for a 4-
inch bore should be gapped at 0.004 x 4 =
0.016 in . However, if your ring gaps are
in the 0.010- 0.020-in . range, they'll be
all right. Gap range for the two oil-ring
side rails is much wider at 0.015-0.055 in.
To check a piston ring's end gap, install
it in a cylinder bore. Carefully fit the ring
in the bore and square it up using an old
piston or a tomato can. There's no need
to push the ring down the bore more than
a half-inch unless your block hasn ' t been
rebored. In this case you should push the
ring down the bore to the bottom of its
travel. The reason is taper in a cylinder
causes a ring to close near the bottom of
104
Check your ring end gaps before installing the rings on their pistons. Square each ring in its bore like
I'm doing with this old piston. Use your feeler gauges to check end gap.
the stroke and minimum end-gap clearance
is what should be checked to prevent the
ends of a ring from butting when the
engine is at maximum operating tempera-
ture. If any of the gaps are too large,
return the complete set of rings for
replacement. If a gap is too small, it can
be corrected by filing or grinding the end
of the ring.
When filing or grinding a piston ring
the first rule is to file or grind the end of
the ring with the motion from its outside
edge toward its inside edge. This is par-
ticularly important with moly rings. The
moly filling on the outside periphery will
chip off from the outside edge. When .
filing, don't hold the ring and me in your
hands, clamp the file in a vise or to a
bench with a C-clamp or Vise-Grip pliers
and move the ring against the file. You'l1
have better control using this method .
For grinding a ring, use a thin grinding
disc, one that will fit between the two
ends. Just make certain the rotation of
the disc is in the right direction . Also, be
sure the ring is securely held so you don't
break the ring as you grind it .
Break any sharp edges from each
piston-ring end that you filed or ground
using a very fine toothed file or some
400-grit sandpaper. The inside edge will
have the biggest burr, the ou tside edge
the least-if it has any at all-and the sides
will be somewhere in between. Just touch
the edges with your file or sandpaper.
Remove only enough material so you
can't feel any sharp edges with your finger
tip.
When you've finished one complete
ring set, keep it with the piston and rod
assembly that's to go in the bore you
used for checking their end-gaps. Repeat
this procedure until you've checked and
fitted all the rings . Also, it's best to keep
To increase ring end gap, file one end of the
ring with a fine-toothed file. With the file firmly
clamped, move the ring against the file in the
direction of the arrow. Lightly touch the corners
of the end you filed to remove any burrs which
may have developed.
Section of an oil-ring assembly. Notice how the expander fits behind the two rails to spring-load
them against the cylinder bore. The ends of a correctly installed expander must butt (arrow). Draw-
ings courtesy Sealed Power Corporation.
t he rings in t he envelopes t hey came in.
The ring manufacturer usually organizes
t he rings in sets with its rings in order-top
compression ring, second compression
ring and oil-ring assembly. Be careful not
t o get t he rings mixed up, particularly the
compression rings. The differences bet-
ween these t wo rings are not readily
apparent, so it's best t o keep t hem in
order t o avoid installing them on t he
piston in the wrong order.
Install t he Rings on t he Pistons-With t he
rings gapped, you' re ready t o install t he
rings on their pistons.This can be done
without any special tools, but I suggest
using a ring expander. It will greatly reduce
the possibility of ring or piston damage
during the installation. An expander costs
much less t han another set of rings.
So you won' t have t o horse around
trying t o hold a piston still while trying
t o install its rings, lightly clamp each rod
and piston assembly so your hands will be
free t o concentrate on holding t he ring
you are installing. Remember, don' t
clamp the rods very tight, particularly in
a vise. They are easily bent . Clamp t he
rods between t wo small blocks of wood
with the rod far enough down in the vise
so the piston can' t rock back-and-forth.
Be careful not t o clamp on t he piston.
Oil Rings-When installing rings on a pis-
t on, start with t he oil ring and work up.
You won' t need t he ring-expanding tool
for t he oil-ring components-the expander
ring and the t wo side rails. However, you
can save yourself some time later on by
installing the three rings which make up
t he oil ring so their end-gaps are in t he
right relationship t o one another rather
than waiting until time t o install the pis-
ton and rod assembly in your engine. The
idea here is t o stagger t he gaps so t hey
don' t coincide with each other. If this
were t o happen t he oil ring would pass
excessive amounts of oil.
I
The first thing t o do is locate t he front
of t he piston as referenced by its not ch or
the arrow which is stamped in its dome.
Generally, if it's a cast piston it'll have
t he not ch, and an arrow with a forged
one. Use the nearby sketch for position-
ing t he end-gaps for all t he rings. With
the front of t he piston located, install the
ring expander with its gap directly at t he
front of t he piston. Its job is t o expand,
or spring load the t wo side-rails against
t he cylinder bore for sealing. Be careful
when installing this ring t o make sure its
ends but t and don' t overlap. Now you' re
ready for the side-rails. Insert one end in
t he oil-ring groove on t op of t he expander.
Hold the free end of the ring with one
hand while running t he t humb of the
ot her hand on t op of the ring and around
t he piston while pushing it i nt o place.
Don' t let t he free end of the ring dig i nt o
t he piston as you bring it down over t he
piston and i nt o its groove. Install the
ot her side-rail below t he expander ring
using the same met hod. Position the rail
gaps as shown in t he drawing.
Compression Rings-Compression rings
are much simpler in design, but more dif-
ficult t o install than oil rings because of
their rigidity. They are easily damaged,
and can damage t he piston during instal-
lation if done incorrectly. For instance, as
opposed t o an oil ring, which has no up
or down, a compression ring usually does.
So, keep your eyes open when installing
these guys. Look for t he "pip" mark-a
little dot or indentation-which indicates
t he t op side of a ring. The pip mark must
be up when t he ring is in its installed posi-
t i on, otherwise the ring's twist will be in
t he wrong direction resulting in bad things
happening, things like excessive blowby
and ring and piston-groove side-wear.
Twist is a term which describes how a
ring bends, or the shape it takes in its
groove. Twist is used for bot h oil control
and sealing combustion pressures. Com-
pression rings with no twist also have no
pip marks. If you happen t o get a set like
this, you can install them either way, but
inspect t he rings t o make absolutely sure.
Also, read the instructions which accom-
Locate ring end gaps like this prior to compress-
ing them for installing the piston-and-rod
assemblies into your engine.
After the expander, the top oil-ring rail goes on
next. Hold the free end of the rail so i t doesn't
scratch the piston and position its end gap now.
panied the rings and follow t hem exactly.
The difficult thing about installing a
compression ring is spreading i t so it'll
fit over the piston while not twisting or
breaking t he ring or gouging the piston
with t he ends of t he ring. This is why I
highly recommend using a ring expander.
There are different styles of ring ex-
panders. The top-of-the-line type has a
circular channel for t he ring t o lay in
while it is expanded for installation. The
less-exotic expander doesn't have this
channel. With this t ype, one hand is used
for expanding t he ring and the ot her for
controlling t he ring. Regardless of t he
t ype you have, don' t spread t he ring any
more t han necessary t o install i t . Install
t he second (lower) compression ring
Section of an oil-ring assembly. Notice how the expander fits behind the two rails to spring-load
them against the cylinder bore. The ends of a correctly installed expander must butt (arrow). Draw-
ings courtesy Sealed Power Corporation.
the rings in the envelopes they came in.
The ring manufacturer usually organizes
the rings in sets with its rings in order-top
compression ring, second compression
ring and oil-ring assembly. Be careful not
to get the rings mixed up, particularly the
compression rings. The differences bet-
ween these two rings are not readily
apparent, so it's best to keep them in
order to avoid installing them on the
piston in the wrong order.
Install the Rings on the Pistons-With the
rings gapped, you're ready to install the
rings on their pistons.This can be done
without any special tools, but I suggest
using a ring expander. It will grea tly reduce
the possibility of ring or piston damage
during the installation. An expander costs
much less than another set of rings.
So you won't have to horse around
trying to hold a piston still while trying
to install its rings, lightly clamp each rod
and piston assembly so your hands will be
free to concentrate on holding the ring
you are installing. Remember, don't
clamp the rods very tight, particularly in
a vise. They are easily bent. Clamp the
rods between two small blocks of wood
with the rod far enough down in the vise
so the piston can't rock back-and-forth.
Be careful not to clamp on the piston.
Oil Rings-When installing rings on a pis-
ton, start with the oil ring and work up.
You won't need the ring-expanding tool
for the oil-ring components-the expander
ring and the two slde rails. However, you
can save yourself some time later on by
installing the three rings which make up
the oil ring so their end-gaps are in the
right relationship to one another rather
than waiting until time to install the pis-
ton and rod assembly in your engine. The
idea here is to stagger the gaps so they
don't coincide with each other. If this
were to happen the oil ring would pass
excessive amounts of oil.
The first thing to do is locate the front
of the piston as referenced by its notch or
the arrow which is stamped in its dome.
Generally, if it's a cast piston it'll have
the notch, and an arrow with a forged
one. Use the nearby sketch for position-
ing the end-gaps for all the rings. With
the front of the piston located, install the
ring expander with its gap directly at the
front of the piston. Its job is to expand,
or spring load the two side-rails against
the cylinder bore for sealing. Be careful
when installing this ring to make sure its
ends butt and don't overlap. Now you're
ready for the side-rails. Insert one end in
the oil-ring groove on top of the expander.
Hold the free end of the ring with one
hand while running the thumb of the
other hand on top of the ring and around
the piston while pushing it into place.
Don't let the free end of the ring dig into
the piston as you bring it down over the
piston and into its groove. Install the
other side-rail below the expander ring
using the same method. Position the rail
gaps as shown in the drawing.
Compression Rings-Compression rings
are much simpler in design, but more dif-
ficul t to install than oil rings because of
their rigidity. They are easily damaged,
and can damage the piston during instal-
lation if done incorrectly. For instance, as
opposed to an oil ring, which has no up
or down, a compression ring usually does.
So, keep your eyes open when installing
these guys. Look for the "pip" mark-a
little dot or indentation-which indicates
the top side of a ring. The pip mark must
be up when the ring is in its installed posi-
tion, otherwise the ring's twist will be in
the wrong direction resulting in bad things
happening, things like excessive blowby
and ring and piston-groove side-wear.
Twist is a term which describes how a
ring bends, or the shape it takes in its
groove. Twist is used for both oil control
and sealing combustion pressures. Com-
pression rings with no twist also have no
pip marks. If you happen to get a set like
this, you can install them either way, but
inspect the rings to make absolutely sure.
Also, read the instructions which accom-
Locate ring end gaps like this prior to compress-
ing them for installing the piston-and-rod
assemblies into your engine.
After the expander, the top oil-ring rail goes on
next. Hold the free end of the rail so it doesn't
scratch the piston and position its end gap now.
panied the rings and follow them exactly.
The difficult thing about installing a
compression ring is spreading it so it'll
fit over the piston while not twisting or
breaking the ring or gouging the piston
with the ends of the ring. This is why I
highly recommend using a ring expander.
There are different styles of ring ex-
panders. The top-of-the-line type has a
circular channel for the ring to lay in
while it is expanded for installation. The
less-exotic expander doesn't have this
channel. With this type, one hand is used
for expanding the ring and the other for
controlling the ring. Regardless of the
type you have, don't spread the ring any
more than necessary to install it. Install
the second (lower) compression ring
105
Two ways of installing a compression ring-with or without a ring expander. I f you elect not t o use a
ring expander, be careful. It's easy t o bend or break a ring. I f this happens you could've saved money
by purchasing and using an expanber. Regardless of how you do it, make sure the pip marks are up.
first. Make sure the pip mark is up, ex-
pand the ring while making sure it doesn't
twist and instdl it over its piston into the
second groove': Do exactly the same with
the top ring, installing it in the top groove.
The end-gaps on these two rings should
be placed as shown in the drawing. They
should be checked for position immedi-
ately before being installed in the engine.
You may decide to install your com-
pression rings without the aid of a ring
expander, so I'll tell you how t o do it
right. Wrap the ends of your thumbs with
tape. The sharp ends of a compression
ring really dig in when you're spreading
it apart. Position the second compression
ring over the piston with the pip up. Ro-
tate the ring over the edge of the piston
so its ends are lower on the piston than
the rest of the ring. With your thumbs on
the ends of the ring so you can spread it
apart and your fingers to the side for
controlling itcspread the ring apart and
rotate the ring over the piston with the
end gap over the groove. When the ring
lines up with the groove all the way
around, release it into its groove. When
your thumbs revive, install the top ring
using the same method. It'll be easier
because it won't have t o go down over
the piston as far.
INSTALLATION
For installing piston-and-connecting
rod assemblies into your engine you must
have a ring compressor, two bearing-
journal protectors for the rod bolts, an
oil can, something to push the pistons
into their bores-a hammer will do a
good job-and a large tomato can con-
taining a couple of inches of motor oil.
You don't have to have the last item, but
it is the most convenient way I know to
pre-lube your rings and pistons prior to
installing them.
Get Everything Ready-Just like every
other facet of engine building, you have
t o be organized when installing connecting
rods and pistons. All the tools must be
within reach, everything must be clean
and the engine positioned so you'll be
able to insert each piston-and-rod assem-
bly into its bore while guiding the rod
into engagement with its crankshaft bear-
ing journal.
Before starting the actual piston and
rod installation, clean your engine's
cylinder bores of their protective oil
coating. Use paper towels for this, not
rags. Look your pistons and rods over
too. Regardless of how clean the rest of
the assembly is, wipe the bearing inserts
t o be sure they are clean. If you're doing
the engine assembly on a bench, roll the
block upside-down so one of the deck
surfaces hangs over the edge of the bench.
This will give you clear access to the top
and bottom of the bores and to the
crankshaft bearing journals. Have the
pistons close by and organized according
t o their position in the engine. This way
you won't have to -hunt for each piston
even though it gets easier as you go along.
With all the tools ready you should be
ready to slide the pistons in their holes.
Crankshaft Throws At BDC-If you've
removed the crankshaft damper bolt and
washer, replace them. Youll need them
so you can turn the crank periodically
during the rod-and-piston installation
process. The throw, or connecting-rod
bearing journal, must be lined up BDC
for the cylinder that's t o receive a piston
and rod. This is so you'll have room
between the bottom of the cylinder
and the crank journal to guide the big end
of the connecting rod into engagement
with its journal as you slide the piston
down the bore.
Once you have the crankshaft in posi-
Tools for installing piston-and-connecting-rod
assemblies. Bearing-journal protectors for the
rod bolts, a ring compressor, a wooden-handle
hammer for pushing the piston down into its
bore and oil in a squirt can and tomato can for
oiling the piston and rod bearings.
tion, remove the bearing cap from the rod
you're going t o install. Be careful not t o
knock the bearing inserts loose from the
rod or cap if you installed them earlier
for checking journal-to-bearing clearance
with Plasti-Gage@. Above all, don't mix
them with other inserts. The best way of
avoiding this is only remove one rod cap
at a time. Slip the journal protectors over
the rod bolts. Liberally oil the piston
rings and ring grooves and the skirt. Here's
where the big tomato can with oil in it
comes in handy. Just immerse the top of
the piston in the oil, then spread the oil
all over its skirt. While you're at it, oil the
wrist pin and the bearing inserts-both in
the cap and the rod. Spread the oil evenly
on the bearings with your finger tip.
Ring compressors vary in design from
one to another, so follow the directions
that accompanied yours. However, if you
don't have the directions for one reason
or another, here's how you use one. First,
there are two basic styles. Most common
and least expensive operates with an
Allen wrench. The compressed position
is held by a ratchet which is released by a
lever on the side of the compressor sleeve.
The second type uses a plier arrangement
to operate the compressor. A rachet on
the plier handle holds the rings in the
compressed position. This type is avail-
able from Sealed Power Corporation with
sleeves or bands to cover pistons sizes
2-718-4-318 in. diameter.
To use a ring compressor, fit it loosely
around the piston with the long side of
the sleeve pointing up in relation to the
piston. With the clamping portion of the
compressor centered on the three rings
compress the rings while wiggling the
compressor slightly. This helps the com-
pressor to compress the rings. When the
compressor is snugged tightly around the
piston, put the protective sleeves over the
rod bolts.
Two ways of installing a compression ring-with or without a ring expander. If you elect not to use a
ring expander, be careful. It's easy to bend or break a ring. If this happens you could've saved money
by purchasing and using an expander. Regardless of how you do it, make sure the pip marks are up.
first. Make sure the pip mark is up, ex-
pand the ring while making sure it doesn't
twist and install it over its piston into the
second groove. Do exactly the same with
the top ring, installing it in the top groove.
The end-gaps on these two rings should
be placed as shown in the drawing. They
should be checked for position immedi-
ately before being installed in the engine.
You may decide to install your com-
pression rings withou t the aid of a ring
expander, so I'll tell you how to do it
right. Wrap the ends of your thumbs with
tape . The sharp ends of a compression
ring really dig in when you're spreading
it apart. Position the second compression
ring over the piston with the pip up. Ro-
tate the ring over the edge of the piston
so its ends are lower on the piston than
the rest of the ring. With your thumbs on
the ends of the ring so you can spread it
apart and your fingers to the side for
controlling it;" spread the ring apart and
rotate the ring over the piston with the
end gap over the groove. When the ring
lines up with the groove all the way
around, release it into its groove. When
your thumbs revive, install the top ring
using the same method . It'll be easier
because it won't have to go down over
the piston as far.
INSTALLATION
For installing piston-and-connecting
rod assemblies in to your engine you must
have a ring compressor, two bearing-
journal protectors for the rod bolts, an
oil can , something to push the pistons
into their bores-a hammer will do a
good job-and a large tomato can con-
taining a couple of inches of motor oil.
You don't have to have the last item, but
it is the most convenient way I know to
pre-lube your rings and pistons prior to
106
installing them.
Get Everything Ready-Just like every
other facet of engine building, you have
to be organized when installing connecting
rods and pistons. All the tools must be
within reach, everything must be clean
and the engine positioned so you'll be
able to insert each piston-and-rod assem-
bly into its bore while guiding the rod
into engagement with its crankshaft bear-
ing journal.
Before starting the actual piston and
rod installation, clean your engine's
cylinder bores of their protective oil
coating. Use paper towels for this, not
rags . Look your pistons and rods over
too. Regardless of how clean the rest of
the assembly is, wipe the bearing inserts
to be sure they are clean. If you're doing
the engine assembly on a bench, roll the
block upside-down so one of the deck
surfaces hangs over the edge of the bench.
This will give you clear access to the top
and bottom of the bores and to the
crankshaft bearing journals. Have the
pistons close by and organized according
to their position in the engine. This way
you won't have to hunt for each piston
even though it gets easier as you go along.
With all the tools ready you should be
ready to slide the pistons in their holes.
Crankshaft Throws At BDC-If you've
removed the crankshaft damper bolt and
washer, replace them. You1l need them
so you can turn the crank periodically
during the rod-and-piston installation
process . The throw, or connecting-rod
bearing journal , must be lined up BDC
for the cylinder that's to receive a piston
and rod. This is so you'll have room
between the bottom of the cylinder
and the crank journal to guide the big end
of the connecting rod into engagement
with its journal as you slide the piston
down the bore.
Once you have the crankshaft in posi-
Tools for installing pistonand-connecting-rod
assemblies. Bearing-journal protectors for the
rod bolts, a ring compressor, a woodenhandle
hammer for pushing the piston down into its
bore and oil in a squirt can and tomato can for
oiling the piston and rod bearings.
tion, remove the bearing cap from the rod
you're going to install. Be careful not to
knock the bearing inserts loose from the
rod or cap if you installed them earlier
for checking journal-to-bearing clearance
with Plasti-Gage. Above all, don't mix
them with other inserts. The best way of
avoiding this is only remove one rod cap
at a time. Slip the journal protectors over
the rod bolts. Liberally oil the piston
rings and ring grooves and the skirt. Here's
where the big tomato can with oil in it
comes in handy . Just immerse the top of
the piston in the oil, then spread the oil
all over its skirt. While you're at it, oil the
wrist pin and the bearing inserts-both in
the cap and the rod. Spread the oil evenly
on the bearings with your finger tip.
Ring compressors vary in design from
one to another, so follow the directions
that accompanied yours . However, if you
don't have the directions for one reason
or another, here's how you use one . Firs t,
there are two basic styles. Most common
and least expensive operates with an
Allen wrench . The compressed position
is held by a ratchet which is released by a
lever on the side of the compressor sleeve.
The second type uses a plier arrangement
to operate the compressor. A rachet on
the plier handle holds the rings in the
compressed position. This type is avail-
able from Sealed Power Corporation with
sleeves or bands to cover pistons sizes
2-7/8-4-3/8 in. diameter.
To use a ring compressor, fit it loosely
around the piston with the long side of
the sleeve pointing up in relation to the
piston . With the clamping portion of the
compressor centered on the three rings
compress the rings . while wiggling the
compressor slightly. This helps the com-
pressor to compress the rings. When the
compressor is snugged tightly around the
piston, put the protective sleeves over the
rod bolts.
After wiping the bearings and their bores clean, install them, then slip thread protectors over the rod bolts. Oil the bearings as well as the piston by sub-
merging them in oil.
After compressing rings, guide connecting rod and piston into its bore and in the right direction.
Check connecting-rod number and arrow or notch in top of piston. I t must point to the front of the
engine. Push or lightly tap piston into its bore while guiding connecting rod onto its bearing journal.
I f you feel any slight hangup, STOP! Pull the piston out and start over again after recompressing the
rings.
Using the notch or arrow on the piston
dome or the rod number as reference for
positioning the assembly, insert the piston
in its bore while being careful not t o let
the connecting rod bang around in the
bore. The lower portions of the piston
skirt should project out the bottom of
the compressor sleeve. Insert the piston in
the cylinder bore and push down on the
compressor to square it up to the block's
deck surface. With your hammer, using its
head as a handle, push or tap lightly on
the head of the piston to start it down
the bore. If the piston hangs up before
it's all the way in, STOP. Don't try t o
force it in the rest of the way. What's
happened is a ring has popped out of the
bottom of the compressor before entering
the bore, consequently if you try forcing
the piston any farther youl l probably
break a ring land, resulting in a junked
piston. Release the compressor and start
over. It's no big loss, just a couple of min-
utes rather than a piston and a ring. When
the last ring leaves the compressor and
enters its bore, the compressor will be
free of the piston. Set it aside and finish
installing the piston and rod.
Using one hand to push on the piston
and the other to guide the rod into engage-
ment with its rod journal by sliding the
piston down the bore, guide the rod bolts
so they straddle the journal, then tap
lightly on the piston dome until the rod
bearing is firmly seated against the journal.
Remove the sleeves from the rod bolts.
You can now install the bearing cap. Make
sure its number coincides with the one on
the rod and is on the same side. Install
the attaching nuts and torque them to
specification, 19-24 ft. lbs. for 221, 260,
289 and 302 engines and 40- 45 ft. lbs.
for the HP289, Boss 302 and 351W
engines.
Now that the first rod and piston are
installed, turn the crankshaft so its throw
lines up in the BDC position for the next
cylinder. Install its rod and piston assem-
bly as well as the remaining two in this
bank, remembering to put the protective
sleeves over the rod bolts each time.
When finished with this side, roll your
engine over and install the last four. With
that you can take a few steps back and
take a good look at your engine-it's
starting t o look like one now.
Boss 302 Windage Tray-If you have a
Boss 302 you can now install the -outer
main-bearing-cap bolts and its windage
tray, or oil-baffle under these bolts.
Torque them 35-40 ft. lbs.
TIMING CFIAIN AND SPROCKETS
Before you can install the timing chain
and its sprockets (often referred to as
gears), you'll have to rotate the crankshaft
and camshaft to their cylinder 1 firing
positions. For the crank, just bring piston
1 to the top of its bore. The keyway in
the crankshaft extension will be pointing
up in relation to the block. Po.sition it a
little left of straight up, looking at the
keyway from the front of the block. Youll
see why later. The position for the cam
won't be as apparent. Position it so its
After wiping the bearings and their bores clean, install them, then slip thread protectors over the rod bolts. Oil the bearings as well as the piston by sub-
merging them in oil.
After compressing rings, guide connecting rod and piston into its bore and in the right direction.
Check connecting-rod number and arrow or notch in top of piston. It must point to the front of the
engine. Push or lightly tap piston into its bore while guiding connecting rod onto its bearing journal.
If you feel any slight hangup, STOP! Pull the piston out and start over again after recompressing the
rings.
Using the notch or arrow on the piston
dome or the rod number as reference for
positioning the assembly, insert the piston
in its bore while being careful not to let
the connecting rod bang around in the
bore. The lower portions of the piston
skirt should project out the bottom of
the compressor sleeve . Insert the piston in
the cylinder bore and push down on the
compressor to square it up to the block's
deck surface. With your hammer, using its
head as a handle, push or tap lightly on
the head of the piston to start it down
the bore. If the piston hangs up before
it's aU the way in, STOP. Don't try to
force it in the rest of the way. What's
happened is a ring has popped out of the
bottom of the compressor before entering
the bore, consequently if you try forcing
the piston any farther you'll probably
break a ring land, resulting in a junked
piston. Release the compressor and start
over. It's no big loss, just a couple of min-
utes rather than a piston and a ring. When
the last ring leaves the compressor and
enters its bore, the compressor will be
free of the piston. Set it asicle and finish
installing the piston and rod.
Using one hand to push on the piston
and the other to guide the rod into engage-
ment with its rod journal by sliding the
piston down the bore, guide the rod bolts
so they straddle the journal, then tap
Jightly on the piston dome until the rod
bearing is firmly seated against the journal.
Remove the sleeves from the rod bolts.
You can now install the bearing cap. Make
sure its number coincides with the one on
the rod and is on the same side. Install
the attaching nuts and torque them to
specification, 19-24 ft.lbs. for 221,260,
289 and 302 engines and 40-45 ft. Jbs.
for the HP289, Boss 302 and 351 W
engines.
Now that the first rod and piston are
installed , turn the crankshaft so its throw
lines up in the BOC position for the next
cylinder. Install its rod and piston assem-
bly as well as the remaining two in this
bank, remembering to put the protective
sleeves over the rod bolts each time.
When finished with this side, roll your
engine over and install the last four. With
that you can take a few steps back and
take a good look at your engine-it's
starting to look like one now.
Boss 302 Windage Tray-If you have a
Boss 302 you can now install the outer
main-bearing-cap bolts and its windage
tray, or oil-baffle under these bolts.
Torque them 35-40 ft. lbs.
Before you can install the timing chain
and its sprockets (often referred to as
gears), you'll have to rotate the crankshaft
and camshaft to their cylinder 1 firing
positions. For the crank, just bring piston
1 to the top of its bore. The keyway in
the crankshaft extension will be pointing
up in relation to the block. Pqsition it a
little left of straight up, looking at the
keyway from the front of the block . You 11
see why later. The position for the cam
won't be as apparent . Position it so its
107
A simple check t o make sure pistons are in the right holes and in the right direction-arrows or
notches pointing forward and numbers pointing toward their cylinder bank.
sprocket drive-pin is directly in line with
the crank's centerline, between the cam
and the crank.
Don't Forget the Key-If the key is miss-
ing from the crankshaft keyway, find it
and install it. It must be there to index and
drive the cam. It also drives the accessory-
drive pulley. Before laying the key in
place, feel the edge of the keyway. If it
has a little burr or a raised edge, file it
flush with the crankshaft's normal surface,
then install the key.
Install the Crankshaft Sprocket First-If
the damper bolt and washer are still on
the end of your crankshaft, remove them
so you can install the crankshaft timing-
chain sprocket. Don't slide it all the way
on, just enough so its keyway slot begins
to engage the key. Notice the timing
mark on the sprocket pointing straight up
relative to the engine.
Before installing the cam sprocket on
the cam, find its timing mark. It'll be on
the front face of the sprocket between
two of the teeth and in line with the drive-
pin hole. This mark must point down,
lining up with the crank sprocket when
cylinder 1 is on TDC. Using the mark as
reference, hold the sprocket in the posi-
tion it will go on the cam and drape the
timing chain over it. Bring the sprocket
and chain up t o the engine and mate the
chain to the crank sprocket so the timing
marks on the two sprockets line up-are
directly opposite one another. While lifting
up on the cam sprocket to keep the chain
tight, slide the crankshaft sprocket back
simultaneously with the cam sprocket
and chain until the cam sprocket engages
the cam nose and drive-pin. You won't be
able to slide it on all the way because the
drive-pin hole in the sprocket should be
to the right of the drive-pin because of
the position you left the crank in-to the
left, or counter-clockwise. To bring the
each other, reinstall the damper bolt and ~ ~ 2 8 9 . BOSS 302 and 3 5 i w and 19-24 ft. ~bs.
washer in the end of the craik and bump for all others.
the crank in the clockwise direction while
pushing on the cam sprocket. When it's
lined up you'll feel it engage the drive-pin.
You can now slide both sprockets all the
way on. Before you go any farther, make
sure both sprocket timing marks point
straight at each other. If they aren't you'll
have to back both sprockets off until the
cam sprocket is loose and jump the chain
a tooth in the right direction and reinstall
the chain and sprockets and recheck them.
Install the Fuel-Pump Cam-Secure the
camshaft timing-chain sprocket, but don't
forget the fuel-pump cam. It goes between
the attaching-bolt and washer, and the
sprocket. There are two holes in the cam,
a big one and a small one. Locate the cam
with the small hole over the end of the
cam drive-pin which protrudes out of the
sprocket and the large hole over the center
of the sprocket and the cam. Install the
attaching bolt-3/8-24 x 1 .SO-in. long,
grade 8-washer and torque the bolt to
40-45 ft. 1bs.-a dab of Loctitea on the
bolt threads is good insurance.
Slide the oil slinger over the end of the
crankshaft extension and you're ready to
install the timing chain cover. Don't
worry about the slinger being loose. When
the crankshaft damper is installed, it will
sandwich the slinger between it and the
crankshaft timing-chain sprocket. Just
make sure the slinger is on in the right
direction-so the top of the hat is against
the sprocket-and engaged with the key.
Boss 302 windage tray can be installed after
T ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ - ~ ~ A ~ ~ COVER AND'^^^^^-
connecting-rod nuts are torqued, Install i t
SHAFT DAMPER
under number-2 and -3 outer main-bearing cap
bolts. Torque them 35-40 ft.lbs. Photo cour-
If you haven't cleaned the front engine tesy Ford.
A simple check to make sure pistons are in the right holes and in the right direction-arrows or
notches pointing forward and numbers pointing toward their cylinder bank.
sprocket drive-pin is directly in line with
the crank's centerline, between the cam
and the crank.
Don't Forget the Key-If the key is miss-
ing from the crankshaft keyway, find it
and install it. It must be there to index and
drive the cam. It also drives the accessory-
drive pUlley. Before laying the key in
place, feel the edge of the keyway. If it
has a little burr or a raised edge, file it
flush with the crankshaft's normal surface,
then install the key.
Install the Crankshaft Sprocket First-If
the damper bolt and washer are still on
the end of your crankshaft, remove them
so you can install the crankshaft timing-
chain sprocket. Don't slide it all the way
on, just enough so its keyway slot begins
to engage the key. Notice the timing
mark on the sprocket pointing straight up
relative to the engine.
Before installing the cam sprocket on
the cam, find its timing mark. It'll be on
the front face of the sprocket between
two of the teeth and in line with the drive-
pin hole. This mark must point down,
lining up with the crank sprocket when
cylinder 1 is on TDC. Using the mark as
reference, hold the sprocket in the posi-
tion it will go on the cam and drape the
. timing chain over it. Bring the sprocket
and chain up to the engine and mate the
chain to the crank sprocket so the timing
marks on the two sprockets line up-are
directly opposite one another. While lifting
up on the cam sprocket to keep the chain
tight, slide the crankshaft sprocket back
simultaneously with the cam sprocket
and chain until the cam sprocket engages
the cam nose and drive-pin. You won't be
able to slide it on all the way because the
drive-pin hole in the sprocket should be
to the right of the drive-pin because of
108
the position you left the crank in-to the
left, or counter-clockwise . To bring the
drive-pin and drive-pin hole in line with
each other, reinstall the damper bolt and
washer in the end of the crank and bump
the crank in the clockwise direction while
pushing on the cam sprocket. When it's
lined up you'll feel it engage the drive-pin.
You can now slide both sprockets all the
wayan. Before you go any farther, make
sure both sprocket timing marks pain t
straight at each other. If they aren't you'll
have to back both sprockets off un til the
cam sprocket is loose and jump the chain
a tooth in the right direction and reinstall
the chain and sprockets and recheck them.
Install the Fuel-Pump Cam-Secure the
camshaft timing-chain sprocket, but don't
forget the fuel-pump cam. It goes between
the attaching-bolt and washer, and the
sprocket. There are two holes in the cam,
a big one and a small one. Loca te the cam
with the small hole over the end of the
cam d rive-pin which protrudes au t of the
sprocket and the large hole over the center
of the sprocket and the cam. Install the
attaching bolt-3/8-24 x I.SO-in. long,
grade 8-washer and torque the bolt to
40-4S ft. lbs.-a dab of Loctite on the
bol t threads is good insurance .
Slide the oil slinger over the end of the
crankshaft extension and you're ready to
install the timing chain cover. Don't
worry abou t the slinger being loose. When
the crankshaft damper is installed, it will
sandwich the slinger between it and the
crankshaft timing-chain sprocket. Just
make sure the slinger is on in the right
direction-so the top of the hat is against
the sprocket-and engaged with the key.
TIMING-CHAIN COVER AND CRANK-
SHAFT DAMPER
I f you haven't cleaned the fran t engine
Torque the cap bolts now; 40-45 ft.lbs. for the
HP289. Boss 302 and 351W and 19-24 ft.lbs.
for all others.
;
,
'I
FRONT SEAL
Boss 302 windage tray can be installed after
connecting-rod nuts are torqued. Install it
under number-2 and -3 outer mainbearing cap
bolts. Torque them 35-40 ft.lbs. Photo cour-
tesy Ford.
With camshaft dowel pin positioned at the
bottom and crankshaft key slightly left of
straight up looking at the front of the engine,
loose-assemble timing chain and sprockets
timing marks pointing at each other. Start the
bottom sprocket on the crank, then slide the
complete assembly into engagement with the
crankshaft key and f i t the cam sprocket over
the end of the camshaft.
To engage the camshaft sprocket with its dowel
pin, turn the crankshaft clockwise using the
damper bolt, washer and a wrench while push-
ing back on the cam sprocket at the same time.
and installing. With the cover supported
directly in front of the seal bore by laying
it on a firm flat surface, locate the seal in
the cover and over its bore so its lip will
point toward the engine when the cover
is installed. It's best t o use a cylinder
that's a little smaller than the outside dia-
meter of the seal, but will seat against its
edge for driving it in. This lessens the
possibility of distorting the seal during
the installation. I used a very large dia-
meter socket-one which you may not
have. If need be, you can install the seal
by tapping it in around its edge a little at
a time while being very careful not to
cock it in its bore. Regardless of the
method used, the seal is fully installed
when it bottoms against the backside of
the cover's front lip. When it's bottomed
all the way around, the cover is ready to
be installed on the engine.
Prepare the Damper-Nothing accurately
positions the front cover to the front of
the engine block. Consequently the crank-
shaft seal needs to be accurately located,
or centered on the crankshaft while it's
being installed, otherwise it'll end up off-
center, causing uneven seal loading and a
probable oil leak. To center the front
cover you'll need a special tool or the
obvious thing, y o u ~ r o r h h a f t damper, lf
you haven't cleaned it up yet, do m now.
The main thing is to imp@ tkg robbar
bond between the uu&r and the inner
Complete the timing chain and sprocket installati
attaching bolt and washer to camshaft end. Small I
bolt going in the other one. Torque bolt to 40-45
sprocket and you're ready for the front cover.
ion by installing fuel-pump actuating cam and its
?ole in fuel-pump cam locates-over dowel pin with
ft.lbs. Slip crankshaft oil slinger-against the crank
cover yet, do it now. Remove all the dirt
and grease and all the old gasket material
from the sealing surfaces. Use a punch
and a hammer t o remove the crankshaft
front oil seal. Carefully knock the seal
out the back of the cover by placing the
punch behind the cover's inside lip and
gradually work around the seal until it
falls out. Don't try to knock the seal out
with one whack or you may succeed in
breaking the cover. With the old seal out
of the way, clean its bore in the cover.
Install the New Seal-You'll find a new
front crankshaft oil seal in your gasket set.
Coat the outside periphery of its shell
with some grease. This will assist in sealing
Two-piece fuel-pump cam i s retained the same
as the one-piece cam, however i t locates with a
bent-down tab (arrow) in the camsprocket hole
on top of a shorter dowel pin. Outer ring turns
on the inner cup as can be seen by the installa-
tion.
With camshaft dowel pin positioned at the
bottom and crankshaft key slightly left of
straight up looking at the front of the engine,
looseassemble timing chain and sprockets
timing marks pointing at each other. Start the
bottom sprocket on the crank, then slide the
complete assembly into engagement with the
crankshaft key and fit the cam sprocket over
the end of the camshaft.
To engage the camshaft sprocket with its dowel
pin, turn the crankshaft clockwise using the
damper bolt, washer and a wrench while push
ing back on the cam sprocket at the same time.
Complete the timing chain and sprocket installation by installing fuelpump actuating cam and its
attaching bolt and washer to camshaft end . Small hole in fuelpump cam locates over dowel pin with
bolt going in the other one. Torque bolt to 40-45 ft.lbs. Slip crankshaft oil slinger against the crank
sprocket and you're ready for the front cover.
cover yet , do it now. Remove all the dirt
and grease and all the old gasket material
from the sealing surfaces . Use a punch
and a hammer to remove the crankshaft
front oil seal. Carefully knock the seal
out the back of the cover by placing the
punch behind the cover's inside lip and
gradually work around the seal until it
falls out. Don't try to knock the seal out
with one whack or you may succeed in
breaking the cover. With the old seal out
of the way, clean its bore in the cover.
Install the New Seal-You'11 find a new
front crankshaft oil seal in your gasket set.
Coat the outside periphery of its shell
with some grease. This will assist in sealing
and installing. With the cover supported
directly in front of the seal bore by laying
it on a firm flat surface, locate the seal in
the cover and over its bore so its lip will
point toward the engine when the cover
is installed. It 's best to use a cylinder
that's a little smaller than the outside dia-
meter of the seal, but will seat against its
edge for driving it in. This lessens the
possibili ty of distorting the seal during
the install ation . I used a very large dia-
meter socket-one which you may not
have. If need be, you can install the seal
by tapping it in around its edge a little at
a time while being very careful not to
cock it in its bore. Regardless of the
method used, the seal is fully installed
when it bottoms against the backside of
the cover ' s front lip . When it's bottomed
all the way around , the cover is ready to
be installed on the engine.
Prepare the Damper-Nothing accurately
positions the front cover to the front of
the engine block. Consequently the crank-
shaft seal needs to be accurately located,
or centered on the crankshaft while it's
being installed , otherwise it 'll end up off-
cen ter, causing uneven seal loading and a
probable oil leak. To center the front
cover you'll need a speci al tool or the
obvious thing, your crankshaft damper. If
you haven't cleaned it up yet , do so now.
The main thing is to inspect the rubber
bond between the outer ring and the inner
Twopiece fuel pump cam is retained the same
as the one'piece cam, however it locates with a
bentdown tab (arrow) in the camsprocket hole
on top of a shorter dowel pin. Outer ring turns
on the inner cup as can be seen by the installa
tion .
109
Remove front engine-cover seal with a punch
and hammer by working through the cover
opening. Be careful because the cover is easily
broken.
Support cover on a firm flat surface and drive Not so much for the installation, anti-seize
frontcover seal into place using a very large compound is used in the event the damper has
socket which fits seal's outer shell. t o come off again.
one. Try to force them apart longitudinal-
ly, or back and forth. If there is noticeable
movement the bond has failed and the
damper should be replaced. Also inspect
the inner bore and the sealing for any
roughness, particularly the seal surface.
Smooth out any imperfections with some
400-grit emery cloth. It's also a good idea
to give the sealing surface the same treat-
ment you gave the crankshaft bearing
journals, but don't polish it. The seal sur-
face needs some tooth on it to carry
oil to lubricate the seal. A seal which
runs against a dry surface will fail in
short order.
If the seal surface is deeply grooved or
unfit for sealing for some reason or
another, you'll have to replace the damper,
or better yet, install a sleeve over the orig-
inal seal surface. This sleeve is a relatively
inexpensive part available at most auto-
motive parts stores. The sleeve is approx-
imately 0.030-in. thick and the lip-type
oil seal can comply with this additional
thickness, so there's no adjustment neces-
sary t o the seal when using a sleeve. To
install the sleeve, clean the damper's seal
surface and remove any burrs. Coat the
original seal surface with silicone sealer to
prevent oil leaking between the sleeve and
the damper. Support the damper so the
rubber bond will not be loaded and drive
or press the sleeve on. Place a flat plate-
steel, aluminum or wood-across the end
of the sleeve as it sits on the end of the
damper, to spread the load. Make sure the
sleeve is started straight and install it until
it's flush with the end of the damper shaft.
Wipe any excess sealer off and the damper
is as good as new.
Install the Front Cover and Damper-Be-
fore covering the front of your engine
with the front cover, lubricate the fuel-
pump cam with some moly. Spread it
evenly around the cam's friction surface.
Wipe off any oil that's on the engine
block front-cover mounting surface. Use
some thinner t o get it really clean so the
gasket sealer will seal. In the event that
your engine may be torn down for
another rebuild after thousands of miles
of dependable use, prepare the damper so
it can be easily pulled. Do this by apply-
ing anti-seize compound to its bore. It
will not only help in the removal of the
damper, it acts as a lubricant during the
installation preventing either the damper
or the crankshaft extension from galling.
Now for the cover. Apply sealer t o the
cover's back-side and lay its gasket in
place, then apply sealer to it. Locate two
of the mounting bolts that don't double
as water-pump bolts-the shorter ones.
The two bolts used for mounting the front
cover are. 511 6-18, 1 - and 2-in. long. They
are both UBS-style (uniform bearing
strength) bolts. They have washers built
into the head of the bolt. Fit the cover
loosely to the engine using the two bolts
after you've applied sealer to the bolt
threads. Provide the lubrication for the
seal by applying oil to the damper's seal-
ing surface, then install it onto the crank-
shaft. Rotate the damper until it engages
the key. Adjust the cover so it lines up
with the damper and slide it on as far as
you can by hand. The cover will be prop-
erly positioned now, so you can snug it
down and install the other bolts, with
exception of the ones which also secure
the water pump. Remember, if your cover
uses a sheet-metal timing pointer, there'll
be a hole behind it for a cover bolt-don't
miss it. Torque the bolts 12-15 ft. lbs.
You can now install the damper bolt
and washer for good. It'll take a few turns
t o draw the damper down against the
front of the oil-slinger and the timing
This little sleeve can save you considerable
money. It presses onto the damper over a dam-
aged or badly grooved seal surface.
sprocket. When the bolt snugs down,
torque it 70-90 ft. lbs. Youll find out
that you can't begin t o apply this amount
of torque without turning the crankshaft,
so use one of your large screwdrivers to
keep it from turning by locating the end
of the screwdriver between the bottom of
the block and the front crankshaft coun-
terweight.
OIL PUMP AND PAN
Now's the time t o seal up the bottom
end of your engine. If it's not already
there roll your engine over on its back.
Before installing the pan, you'll have t o
install the oil pump first-it's just a tad
difficult afterwards.
Install a New Driveshaft-If you haven't
already done so, get a new oil-pump drive-
shaft. Don 't even think about using your
old one unless it has had only a few thou-
sand miles of service. Just keep it around
long enough t o compare it to the new one
t o confirm its length and the location of
the little Tinnerman retainer-the stamped
metal ring which is pushed down over the
shaft. It performs a very important locat-
Remove front engine-cover seal with a punch
and hammer by working through the cover
opening_ Be careful because the cover is easily
broken_
one_ Try to force them apart longitudinal-
ly, or back and forth_ If there is noticeable
movement the bond has failed and the
damper should be replaced_ Also inspect
the inner bore and the sealing for any
roughness, particularly the seal surface_
Smooth out any imperfections with some
400-grit emery cloth . It's also a good idea
to give the sealing surface the same treat-
ment you gave the crankshaft bearing
journaJs , but don't polish it. The seal sur-.
face needs some tooth on it to carry
oil to lubricate the seal. A seal which
runs against a dry surface will fail in
short order.
If the seal surface is deeply grooved or
unfit for sealing for some reason or
another, you'll have to replace the damper,
or better yet, install a sleeve over the orig-
inal seaJ surface. This sleeve is a relatively
inexpensive part available at most auto-
motive parts stores _ The sleeve is approx-
imately 0.030-in. thick and the lip-type
oil seal can comply with this additionaJ
thickness, so there's no adjustment neces-
sary to the seal when using a sleeve. To
install the sleeve, clean the damper's seal
surface and remove any burrs. Coat the
originaJ seal surface with silicone seaJer to
prevent oil leaking between the sleeve and
the damper. Support the damper so the
rubber bond will not be loaded and drive
or press the sleeve on. Place a flat plate-
steel, aluminum or wood-across the end
of the sleeve as it sits on the end of the
damper, to spread the load _ Make sure the
sleeve is started straight and instaJI it until
it's flush with the end of the damper shaft.
Wipe any excess sealer off and the damper
is as good as new.
Install the Front Cover and Damper-Be-
fore covering the front of your engine
with the front cover, lubricate the fuel-
pump cam with some moly. Spread it
110
Support cover on a firm flat surface and drive
front-cover seal into place using a very large
socket which fits seal's outer shell .
evenly around the cam's friction surface .
Wipe off any oil that's on the engine
block front-cover mounting surface. Use
some thinner to get it really clean so the
gasket sealer will seal. In the event that
your engine may be torn down for
another rebuild after thousands of miles
of dependable use, prepare the damper so
it can be easily pulled . Do this by apply-
ing anti-seize compound to its bore. It
will not only help in the removal of the
damper, it acts as a lubricant during the
installation preventing either the damper
or the crankshaft extension from gaJling.
Now for the cover. Apply sealer to the
cover's back-side and lay its gasket in
place , then apply sealer to it. Locate two
of the mounting bolts that don't double
as water-pump bolts-the shorter ones.
The two bolts used for mounting the front
cover are 5/16-18,1- and 2-in.long_ They
are both UBS-style (uniform bearing
strength) bolts . They have washers built
into the head of the bolt. Fit the cover
loosely to the engine using the two bolts
after you've applied sealer to the bolt
threads_ Provide the lubrication for the
seal by applying oil to the damper's seal-
ing surface , then install it onto the crank-
shaft. Rotate the damper until it engages
the key . Adjust the cover so it lines up
with the damper and slide it on as far as
you can by hand. The cover will be prop-
erly positioned now, so you can snug it
down and install the other bolts, with
exception of the ones which also secure
the water pump . Remember, if your cover
uses a sheet-metal timing pointer, there'll
be a hole behind it for a cover bolt-don't
miss it. Torque the bolts 12-15 ft.lbs _
You can now install the damper bolt
and washer for good. It'll take a few turns
to draw the damper down against the
front of the oil-slinger and the timing
Not so much for the installation, anti-seize
compourul is used in the event the damper has
to come off again.
This little sleeve can save you considerable
money. It presses onto the damper over a dam-
aged or badly grooved seal surface.
sprocket. When the bolt snugs down,
torque it 70-90 ft. Ibs. You'll find out
that you can't begin to apply this amount
of torque without turning the crankshaft,
so use one of your large screwdrivers to
keep it from turning by locating the end
of the screwdriver between the bottom of
the block and the front crankshaft coun-
terweight.
OIL PUMP AND PAN
Now's the time to seal up the bottom
end of your engine. If it's not already
there roll your engine over on its back.
Before installing the pan , you'll have to
install the oil pump first-it's just a tad
difficult afterwards.
Install a New Driveshaft-If you haven't
already done so, get a new oil-pump drive-
shaft. Don't even think about using your
old one unless it has had only a few thou-
sand miles of service. Just keep it around
long enough to compare it to the new one
to confirm its length and the location of
the little Tinnerman retainer-the stamped
metal ring which is pushed down over the
shaft. It performs a very important locat-
Apply sealer to your front cover, then install the gasket and still more sealer. Do a good job here because it's sealing both oil and coolant. Using two
bolts, loosely install the cover to the engine. To center the cover, install the damper pulley on the crankshaft after oiling its seal surface. Then tighten
the cover bolts.
Torque the bolt on the damper 70-80 ft.lbs.
Keep the crankshaft from turning with a screw-
driver between the bottom of the block and
one of the crankshaft counterweights.
ing function. In the installed position, it
is right under the distributor-shaft hole in
the block, and it prevents the shaft from
being lifted out of the top of the oil pump.
The importance of this feature can be
realized only by those unlucky individ-
uals who have removed their distributor
only to hear an ominous clunk in their
oil pan-the oil-pump drive shaft. Even
worse than hearing the clunk and not
discovering what it was are those who
have reinstalled their distributor without
the driveshaft in place and have found
there is no oil pressure-hopefully
before the engine is damaged.
Install the Oil Pump-You'll find 2 oil-
pump gaskets, one is a little larger than
the other. The big one fits between the
engine block and the pump and the small
one between the pump and its pickup
tube. Don 't use sealer on these gaskets.
With the right gasket in place on the
block, install the oil pump while making
sure the pump's driveshaft engages the
pump. Install the 2 3/8-16 x 1-114-in.
long bolts with their lock washers and
What you'll need to install your oil pump: new
driveshaft and two new gaskets. Large gasket
is for pump base and other one is for pickup.
torque the bolts 23-28 ft. lbs. Double
check t o make sure the driveshaft can't
be pulled out the top of the pump. If it
can, slide the little retaining washer up
the shaft in relation t o the engine until
it's just short of rubbing on the block when
the shaft is firmly seated in the pump. If
the pump's pickup tube is not installed
on the pump, install it now using the
remaining gasket-again, no sealer. Use two
5/16-18 x 718-in. long bolts with lock-
washers and torque them 10-1 5 ft. lbs.
Install the Oil Pan-With the oil pump in
place, take one last look at the bottom end
of your engine and proceed to install its
oil pan. Gather up all the parts youl l
need to do the job first. You'll need the
pan, the front and rear pan seals, the right
and left cork gaskets and the attaching
bolts. You'll need 18 1/4-20 x 314-in.
long bolts and 4 5/16-18 x 1-in. long
bolts, all with lock washers. The 4 large
bolts are required to pull the pan down
against the resisting force of the rear-main-
bearing-cap seal and the front-cover seal-
the force required to do it would strip a
Front section of a 289 shows oil-pump drive-
shaft relationship to the distributor and oil
pump. Note driveshaft washer at the distributor-
end. I t prevents the shaft from pulling out of
the pump and falling into the oil pan when the
distributor is removed.
1/4-20 thread.
With the block upside down, apply the
adhesive-type sealer t o the block's gasket
surface, then fit the cork gaskets to the
block-after you've figured out which one,
and in which direction, goes where. One
Apply sealer to your front cover, then install the gasket and still more sealer. Do a good job here because it's sealing both oil and coolant. Using two
bolts, looselv install the cover to the engine. To center the cover, install the damper pulley on the crankshaft after oiling its seal surface. Then tighten
the cover bolts.
Torque the bolt on the damper 70-80 ft.lbs.
Keep the crankshaft from turning with a screw-
driver between the bottom of the block and
one of the crankshaft counterweights.
ing function. In the installed position, it
is right under the distributor-shaft hole in
the block, and it prevents the shaft from
being lifted out of the top of the oil pump.
The importance of this feature can be
realized only by those unlucky individ-
uals who have removed their distributor
only to hear an ominous clunk in their
oil pan-the oil-pump drive shaft. Even
worse than hearing the clunk and not
discovering what it was are those who
have reinstalled their distributor without
the driveshaft in place and have found
there is no oil pressure-hopefully
before the engine is damaged .
Install the Oil Pump - You'll find 2 oil-
pump gaskets, one is a little larger than
the other. The big one fits between the
engine block and the pump and the small
one between the pump and its pickup
tube . Don't use sealer on these gaskets.
With the right gasket in place on the
block, install the oil pump while making
sure the pump 's driveshaft engages the
pump. Install the 2 3/8-16 x 1-1/4-in.
long bolts with their lock washers and
What you'll need to install your oil pump: new
driveshaft and two new gaskets. Large gasket
is for pump base and other one is for pickup.
torque the bolts 23-28 ft. lbs. Double
check to make sure the driveshaft can't
be pulled out the top of the pump. If it
can, slide the little retaining washer up
the shaft in rei a tion to the engine un til
it's just short of rubbing on the block when
the shaft is firmly seated in the pump. If
the pump's pickup tube is not installed
on the pump, install it now using the
remaining gasket-again, no sealer. Use two
5/16-18 x 7/8-in. long bolts with lock-
washers and torque them 10- 15 ft. Ibs.
Install the Oil Pan-With the oil pump in
place, take one last look at the bottom end
of your engine and proceed to install its
oil pan. Gather up all the parts you'll
need to do the job first. You'll need the
pan, the front and rear pan seals, the right
and left cork gaskets and the attaching
bolts. You'll need 18 1/4-20 x 3/4-in.
long bolts and 4 5/16-18 x I-in . long
bolts, all with lock washers. The 4 large
bolts are required to pull the pan down
against the resisting force of the rear-main-
bearing-cap seal and the front-cover seal-
the force required to do it would strip a
Front section of a 289 shows oil-pump drive-
shaft relationship to the distributor and oil
pump. Note driveshaft washer at the distributor-
end. It prevents the shaft from pulling out of
the pump and falling into the oil pan when the
distributor is removed.
1/4-20 thread.
With the block upside down, apply the
adhesive-type sealer to the block's gasket
surface, then fit the cork gaskets to the
block-after you've figured out which one,
and in which direction, goes where. One
111
tip, the sharp outside corners go t o the
front of the engine. After the gaskets are
in place, fit the front-cover and rear-main-
cap seals into place. These rascals can be
tough. After you've figured out the long
one goes in front, lay one-any one-in its
groove and fit its ends to the cork gasket.
The seal overlaps the gasket to make a
good seal at the junction of the seal and
the gasket. One projection, or tongue
goes between the gasket and its groove
and the other projection overlaps the gas-
ket. With the seal in place, work it down
into its groove with your thumb and a
screwdriver. Use the screwdriver t o force
it into place and your thumb t o hold it
there. Start at one end of the seal and
work around t o the other end. After they
are both in place and you've applied sealer
to the cork gasket only, you can install
the pan.
Before setting the pan on the engine,
take this opporiunity t o soak the timing
chain with oil. Thisll give it some lubrica-
tion when your engine is being cranked
for its initial firing. Now you can install
the oil pan, but be careful not t o move
the gaskets. Loosely install the pan bolts
and tighten them progressively. This is a
good application for a speed handle.
Don't overtighten the bolts, youll distort
the oil-pan flange. You'll notice that in
going around tightening all the bolts that
the cork gasket relaxes after a short whle.
Go around again until they begin t o feel
firm, then they are ready to be torqued.
Check the front and rear seals to make
sure they were pulled down into their
grooves, then torque the pan bolts.
Torque the 18 1/4-20 bolts 7-9 ft. lbs.
I-'. .
Right and left pan gaskets are different. Sharp cot
front and rear seals to the cork gaskets and force
and a lot of thumb pressure. Use sealer only on the
and the 4 5/16-18 bolts 9-11 ft. lbs.
Because of the way the cork gaskets relax,
go around the pan several times, until the
bolts don't turn anymore at their specified
torque. Don't distort the pan by over-
tightening the bolts.
Now that the crankcase is sealed off
by the oil pan, close off the distributor-
and fuel-pump holes so a bolt, nut, wrench
or anything of the sort won't inadvertently
end up in the oil pan. A rag stuffed in the
holes does this very effectively-or some
duct tape. Also, don't forget the oil-pan
drain plug. Install it after you've checked
its seal to make sure it's in good shape.
It's always embarassing to be filling your
newly rebuilt engine's crankcase with nice
Position driveshaft so its washer and pointed
end are up in relation to the engine, and the
end is inserted in the block's distributor-shaft
bore. Lay oil-pump gasket on the block and
install pump. Make sure driveshaft end is in-
serted into pump's drive socket. Don't forget
the lockwashers. Torque mounting bolts 23-28
ft.lbs. Install the pickup with its gasket, bolts
and lockwashers t o complete the pump instal-
lation. Torque pickup bolts 10-15 ft.lbs.
'ners go to the front (arrow). Fi t the ends of the
them into their grooves with a large screwdriver
pan side of the gaskets.
clean oil just t o have it pour out the
bottom of your engine at the same time.
INSTALL YOUR WATER PUMP
Now's a good time to install your water
pump because it makes a nice handle for
wrestling your engine around. You'll find
2 gaskets in you^ gasket set. Depending
on whether you have the aluminum- or
cast-iron pump, the first gasket fits bet-
ween the spacer and the pump or the
cover-plate and the pump, respectively.
The aluminum pump isn't sealed from the
front engine cover, its spacer, or plate has
a large clearance hole for the impeller
whereas the cover plate for the later cast-
iron pumps completely seals the back of
the pump from the front cover.
tip, the sharp outside corners go to the
fron t of the engine. After the gaskets are
in place, fit the front-cover and rear-main-
cap seals into place. These rascals can be
tough. After you've figured ou t the long
one goes in front, lay one-any one-in its
groove and fit its ends to the cork gasket.
The seal overlaps the gasket to make a
good seal at the junction of the seal and
the gasket. One projection, or tongue
goes between the gasket and its groove
and the other projection overlaps the gas-
ket. With the seal in place, work it down
into its groove with your thumb and a
screwdriver. Use the screwdriver to force
it into place and your thumb to hold it
there. Start at one end of the seal and
work around to the other end. After they
are both in place and you've applied sealer
to the cork gasket only, you can install
the pan.
Before setting the pan on the engine,
take this opportunity to soak the timing
chain with oil. This 11 give it some lubrica-
tion when your engine is being cranked
for its initial firing. Now you can install
the oil pan, but be careful not to move
the gaskets. Loosely install the pan bolts
and tighten them progressively. This is a
good application for a speed handle.
Don't overtighten the bolts , you'll distort
the oil-pan flange. You'll notice that in
going around tightening all the bolts that
the cork gasket relaxes after a short while.
Go around again until they begin to feel
firm, then they are ready to be torqued.
Check the front and rear seals to make
sure they were pulled down into their
grooves, then torque the pan bolts .
Torque the 18 1/4-20 bolts 7-9 ft. lbs.
112
Position driveshaft so its washer and pointed
end are up in relation to the engine, and the
end is inserted in the block's distributorshaft
bore. Lay oil-pump gasket on the block and
install pump. Make sure driveshaft end is in-
serted into pump's drive socket . Don't forget
the lockwashers. Torque mounting bolts 23-28
ft.lbs. Install the pickup with its gasket, bolts
and lockwashers to complete the pump instal
lation. Torque pickup bolts 10-15 ft.lbs.
Right and left pan gaskets are different. Sharp corners go to the front (arrow). Fit the ends of the
front and rear seals to the cork gaskets and force them into their grooves with a large screwdriver
and a lot of thumb pressure. Use sealer only on the pan side of the gaskets.
and the 4 5/16-18 bolts 9-11 ft. lbs.
Because of the way the cork gaskets relax,
go around the pan several times, until the
bol ts don't turn anymore at their specified
torque. Don't distort the pan by over-
tightening the bolts.
Now that the crankcase is sealed off
by the oil pan, close off the distributor-
and fuel-pump holes so a bolt, nut, wrench
or anything of the sort won't inadvertently
end up in the oil pan. A rag stuffed in the
holes does this very effectively-or some
duct tape. Also, don't forget the oil-pan
drain plug. Install it after you've checked
its seal to make sure it's in good shape.
It's always embarassing to be filling your
newly rebuil t engine's crankcase with nice
clean oil just to have it pour out the
bottom of your engine at the same time.
INSTALL YOUR WATER PUMP
Now's a good time to install your water
pump because it makes a nice handle for
wrestling your engine around. You'll find
2 gaskets in your gasket set. Depending
on whether you have the aluminum- or
cast-iron pump, the first gasket fits bet-
ween the spacer and the pump or the
cover-plate and the pump, respectively.
The aluminum pump isn't sealed from the
front engine cover, its spacer, or plate has
a large clearance hole for the impeller
whereas the cover pia te for the later cast-
iron pumps completely seals the back of
the pump from the front cover.
If you haven't already done so install
the rear cover to the pump if yours is the
cast-iron one. You'll need one of the
gaskets between the pump and the cover,
the one that seals the pump-outlet holes
on the outboard side only. Use the adhe-
sive-type sealer here on both sides of the
gasket and secure the cover to the pump
with the 2 5/16-18 x 112-in. long special
bolts. Their hex size is 518 in. which is
low profile at only 3132-in. high so they
clear the front cover. With the cover
secured in place and the bolts torqued to
15 ft. lbs., install the pump assembly to
the cover using the remaining water-pump
gasket and the adhesive sealer. Install the
all oil-pan bolts before tightening any of them.
Snug the pan bolts down several times because
water-pump and torque its bolts 12-15 ft.
the cork gasket relaxes. Torque the 1/4-20
lbs. Remember to put sealer on the
bolts 7-9 ft.lbs. Larger 5/16-15 bolts adjacent threads of the bolts which thread into the
t o the front and rear-main bearing caps: 9-11
front face of the engine block- the bolts
ft.lbs.
which double as front-cover bolts.
For the earlier aluminum pump, use
the adhesive sealer to fit the pump-to-
spacer gasket to the pump, then the spacer
t o the gasket, the spacer-to-front cover
gasket t o the spacer and finally the whole
assembly to the engine. Use two of the
'P-
AP
Four of the many oil pans and their pickups that have been installed on the small-block Fords: A. FairlanelComet, MustanglCougar, Maverick, Granadal
Monarch, Versailles and full-size Ford and Mercury. B. FairmontIZephyr. C. Econoline. D. 4x4 pickup and Bronco. Make sure your oil pan fits the instal-
lation i f you're doing an engine swap.
Carefully position oil pan on block and install
all oil-pan bolts before tightening any of them.
Snug the pan bolts down several times because
the cork gasket relaxes. Torque the 1/4-20
bolts 7-9 ft.lbs. Larger 5/16-15 bolts adjacent
to the front and rear-main bearing caps: 9-11
ft.lbs.
A
c
B
D
If you haven't already done so install
the rear cover to the pump if yours is the
cast-iron one. You'll need one of the
gaskets' between the pump and the cover ,
the one that seals the pump-outlet holes
on the outboard side only. Use the adhe-
sive-type sealer here on both sides of the
gasket and secure the cover to the pump
with the 2 5/16-18 x I/2-in . long special
bolts. Their hex size is 5/8 in . which is
low profile at only 3/3 2-in. high so they
clear the front cover. With the cover
secured in place and the bolts torqued to
15ft. Ibs. , install the pump assembly to
the cover using the remaining water-pump
gasket and the adhesive sealer. Install the
water-pump and torque its bolts 12-15 ft.
lbs. Remember to put sealer on the
threads of the bolts which thread into the
front face of the engi ne block- the bolts
which double as front-cover bolts.
For the earlier aluminum pump, use
the adhesive sealer to ft t the pump-to-
spacer gasket to the pump, then the spacer
to the gasket, the spacer -to-front cover
gasket to the spacer and finally the whole
assembly to the engine. Use two of the
Four of the many oil pans and their pickups that have been installed on the small-block Fords: A. Fairlane/Comet, Mustang/Cougar, Maverick, Granada/
Monarch, Versailles and full-size Ford and Mercury. B. Fairmont/Zephyr. C. Econoline. D. 4X4 pickup and Bronco. Make sure your oil pan fits the instal-
lation if you're doing an engine swap.
113
mounting bolts to line up the 2 gaskets
and the spacer to the pump. Use sealer on
the long bolts which double as front-cover
mounting bolts and torque them all 12-1 5
ft. Ibs. Be prepared later on t o remove
some of the water-pump bolts because
they'll not only serve t o retain the water
pump and the front cover, they'll also
mount some of the engine accessories,
thus they will be doing triple duty.
CYLINDER HEADS
It's now time to begin buttoning up
the top side of your engine, so position it
upright. It'll be unstable, so you should
block it up under the oil-pan flanges so
the engine sits level and won't roll over. If
you don't it will get worse because of the
Install the cover plate on a cast-iron water pump. A gasket with sealer on both sides is required be-
additional weight you'll be adding to its
tween the cover and the pump housing. Use low-profile bolts t o retain the plate t o the pump. Gasket
between the pump assembly and the front cover needs sealer on both sides around the water-passage
in the form of the 'ylinder heads. If
openings only. For pumps not using a cover plate, the gasket needs a full bead of sealer front and YOU are using an engine stand, you've got
back. Use sealer on the mounting bolts and torque them 12-15 ft. Ibs. Some of the bolts will have it made in this department.
t o come out later for installing your accessories.
Coat your head gaskets with high-temperature aluminum paint. Install them right-side up and i n the right direction over the dowel pins as indicated on
the gaskets (arrow).
Time t o flex your muscles. Locate the cylinder heads on the dowel pins. Oil the head.bolts. I turned the speed handle over t o my son Jeff for this job.
Torque the head bolts i n the proper steps and sequence.
Install the cover plate on a cast-iron water pump_ A gasket with sealer on both sides is required be-
tween the cover and the pump housing_ Use low-profile bolts to retain the plate to the pump_ Gasket
between the pump assembly and the front cover needs sealer on both sides around the water-passage
openings only_For pumps not using a cover plate, the gasket needs a full bead of sealer front and
back. Use sealer on the mounting bolts and torque them 12-15 ft_ Ibs . Some of the bolts will have
to come out later for installing your accessories.
mounting bolts to line up the 2 gaskets
and the spacer to the pump . Use sealer on
the long bolts which double as front-cover
mounting bolts and torque them all 12 -15
ft. lbs. Be prepared later on to remove
some of the water-pump bolts because
they'll not only serve to retain the water
pump and the front cover , they 'll also
mount some of the engine accessories ,
thus they will be doing triple du ty.
CYLINDER HEADS
It's now time to begin bu ttoning up
the top side of your engine, so position it
upright. It'll be unstable, so you should
block it up under the oil-pan flanges so
the engine sits level and won't roll over. If
you don't it will get worse because of the
additional weight you'll be adding to its
top in the form of the cylinder heads. If
you are using an engine stand , you've got
it made in this departmen t.
Coat your head gaskets with high-temperature aluminum paint. Install them right-side up and in the right direction over the dowel pins as indicated on
the gaskets (arrow).
Time to flex your muscles. Locate the cylinder heads on the dowel pins. Oil the head bolts. I turned the speed handle over to my son Jeff for this job.
Torque the head bolts in the proper steps and sequence.
114
351W
55
6 5
90-100
Cylinder-head-bolt torquing sequence for all small-block Fords.
22 1-302 Boss 302
50 45
60 55
65-72 65-72
I
Liberallv oil vour lifters before installing them.
If they- are i he hydraulic type, pri me them.
When installing used lifters with their original
I camshaft install them in their original bores.
Get your cylinder heads out ofstorage,
the 2 head gaskets from your gasket set
and the head bolts-20 grade-8 bolts to be
exact. The 351W uses 1/2-13 head bolts:
10 are 2-1/2411. long and the other 10 are
4-in. long. All other small blocks use 20
7/16-14 bolts, 10 2-9132-in and 10 3-
29132-in long.
Clean the Gasket Surface-To ensure the
best possible head-gasket seal, clean the
cylinder-head and cylinder-block gasket
surfaces with solvent to remove any oil or
grease deposits. Check to make sure a11 4
hollow cylinder-head-locating dowel-pins
are in place. They are a must to locate the
cylinder heads accurately during installa-
tion, so if they are missing replace them.
Do this by inserting the straight end in
the block with the cham-fered, or tapered
end projecting outward and tap it into
place. Youll feel the pin bottom in its
hole when it's fully installed.
Paint the Head Gaskets-One of the best
and easiest to apply head-gasket sealers is
high-temperature aluminum paint applied
with a spray can. Evenly coat both sides
of your head gaskets with it. After the
paint has dried, position the gaskets on
the engine block by locating them on the
dowel pins with the FRONT designation
on the gaskets to the front and up. If you
get them mislocated, you'll be wondering
why your engine is overheating. Misrouting
of coolant from the block to the cylinder
heads due to water-passage blockage at
the wrong end of the heads an over-heating
engine.
Install the Heads-Flex your muscles now
and lift the cylinder heads into position
on the block. Locate them over the dowel
pins and make sure each is down against
its head gasket. Install the head bolts
after coating their threads with a sealer-
five short ones along the bottom of each
head and five long ones in the rocker-arm
area. When torquing the head bolts, they
must not only be done in sequence, they
must be done in three stages or steps as
described in the above sketch and table.
Remember to do each stage of torque in
the proper sequence, not just the final
one. Refer t o the sketch for the right
sequence. To keep the cylinders free of
moisture and dirt, install an old set of
spark plugs in the heads, some you won't
care whether they get broken or not.
Secure the dip-stick tube to the front of
the right-hand cylinder head with its bolt
and washer.
VALVE TRAIN
To complete your engine's valve-train
assembly after the installation of the
cylinder heads, you'll need 16 valve lifters,
pushrods, rocker arms, fulcrums and nuts.
You'll also need your squirt can full of oil
and some oil additive.
Install the Valve Lifters-Start putting the
final touches on your valve train by in-
stalling the valve lifters. If you have new
ones, they can be installed in any order,
otherwise they'll have to be installed in
the bores they were removed from. Prime
your hydraulic lifters. Do this by filling
them with oil using your squirt can. Force
the oil in the side of each lifter with your
squirt can until it comes out the top hole.
After priming a lifter, oil its OD, coat its
foot with moly-disulfide and install the
lifter in its bore.
The Pushrods Are Next-With the lifters
in place, slide the pushrods down through
their holes in the heads into the center of
their lifters. If you are installing new push-
rods they can go in any direction. If you
are installing your old ones, install them
end-for-end-the end that operated at the
lifter should now be at the rocker arm.
You can tell which end was which by
looking at the wear pattern on the ends
of the pushrods. The area worn on the
lifter end will be much less than that at
the rocker-arm end.
Install the Rocker Arms-Your engine
will be equipped with one to two types of
rocker arms if you have a 1978 or later
351 W, the cast rockers with spherical-ball
pivots or the later style stamped-steel
ones with the integral rocker-pedestals
Get your cylinder heads out of storage,
the 2 head gaskets from your gasket set
and the head bolts-20 grade-8 bolts to be
exact. The 351W uses 1/2-13 head bolts:
10 are 2-1/2-in. long and the other 10 are
4-in. long. All other small blocks use 20
7/16-14 bolts, 10 2-9/32-in and 10 3-
29/32-in long.
Clean the Gasket Surface-To ensure the
best possible head-gasket seal, clean the
cylinder-head and cylinder-block gasket
surfaces with solvent to remove any oil or
grease deposits. Check to make sure all 4
hollow cylinder-head-locating dowel-pins
are in place. They are a must to locate the
cylinder heads accurately during installa-
tion, so if they are missing replace them.
Do this by inserting the straight end in
the block with the chamTered, or tapered
end projecting outward and tap it into
place. You11 feel the pin bottom in its
hole when it's fully installed.
Paint the Head Gaskets-One of the best
and easiest to apply head-gasket sealers is
high-temperature aluminum paint applied
with a spray can . Evenly coat both sides
of your head gaskets with it. After the
paint has dried, position the gaskets on
the engine block by locating them on the
dowel pins with the FRONT designation
on the gaskets to the front and up. If you
get them mislocated, you'll be wondering
why your engine is overheating. Misrouting
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
221-302
50
60
65-72
Boss 302
45
55
65-72
351W
55
65
90-100
Cylinder-head-bolt torquing sequence for all small-block Fords_
of coolant from the block to the cylinder
heads due to water-passage blockage at
the wrong end of the heads an over-heating
engine.
Install the Heads-Flex your muscles now
and lift the cylinder heads into position
on the block. Locate them over the dowel
pins and make sure each is down against
its head gasket. Install the head bolts
after coating their threads with a sealer-
five short ones along the bottom of each
head and five long ones in the rocker-arm
area. When torquing the head bolts, they
must not only be done in sequence, they
must be done in three stages or steps as
described in the above sketch and table.
Remember to do each stage of torque in
the proper sequence, not just the final
one. Refer to the sketch for the right
sequence. To keep the cylinders free of
moisture and dirt, install an old set of
spark plugs in the heads , some you won't
care whether they get broken or not.
Secure the dip-stick tube to the front of
the right-hand cylinder head with its bolt
and washer.
VALVE TRAIN
To complete your engine's valve-train
assembly after the installation of the
cylinder heads , you'll need 16 valve lifters,
pushrods, rocker arms, fulcrums and nuts .
You'll also need your squirt can full of oil
Liberally oil your lifters before installing them.
If they are the hydraulic type, prime them.
When installing used lifters with their original
camshaft install them in their original bores.
and some oil addi tive.
Install the Valve Lifters-Start putting the
final touches on your valve train by in-
stalling the valve lifters. If you have new
ones, they can be installed in any order,
otherwise they'll have to be installed in
the bores they were removed from. Prime
your hydraulic lifters. Do this by filling
them with oil using your squirt can. Force
the oil in the side of each lifter with your
squirt can until it comes out the top hole .
After priming a lifter, oil its 00, coat its
foot with moly-disulfide and install the
lifter in its bore.
The Push rods Are Next-With the lifters
in place, slide the pushrods down through
their holes in the heads in to the center of
their lifters. If you are installing new push-
mds they can go in any direction . If you
are installing your old ones, install them
end-for-end-the end that operated at the
lifter should now be at the rocker arm.
You can tell which end was which by
looking at the wear pattern on the ends
of the pushrods. The area worn on the
lifter end will be much less than that at
the rocker-arm end.
Install the Rocker Arms-Your engine
will be equipped with one to two types of
rocker arms if you have a 1978 or later
351 W, the cast rockers with spherical-ball
pivots or the later style stamped-steel
ones with the integral rocker-pedestals
115
Regardless of whether your pushrods are new
or not, check t o see i f they are straight by roll-
ing them on a flat surface. I'm using a kitchen
counter here. I f more than 0.020-in. feeler
gauge fits between.the surface and the center of
the pushrod, replace the pushrod. DON'T TRY
TO STRAI GHTEN I T.
Ford's oil conditioner is just one of the many
oil supplements that can be used when as-
sembling your engine.
and cylindrical pivots. Otherwise, you'll
have the cast rocker arms and ball pivots.
Regardless of which type rocker arms
your engine has, they should be prelubri-
cated prior to their installation. Apply oil
additive to their pivots and pushrod con-
tact surfaces and moly grease to the valve-
stem tips. Begin the installation by
fitting the rocker arms, pivots and nuts
or bolts to the head. If you are instal-
ling your old rockers and pivots, remem-
ber to keep the pivots mated with their
rocker arms.
Adjust the Valves-A valve train must be
adjusted when its valve is in the fully
closed position. How the adjustment is
done depends on the type of valve train
in your engine. For example, all small
blocks produced through mid-1968 had
fully adjustable valves. How far the rocker-
arm pivot is moved up and down its stud
with the adjusting nut determines a valve's
adjustment. All 302s produced after mid-
1968 and all 351 Ws do not have fully-
adjustable valves. Their valves are adjusted
by the installation of different length
pushrods-0.060-inch longer or shorter
than the standard length.
Another factor in determing how a
valve is adjusted is the type lifters used-
mechanical or hydraulic. Mechanical
lifters were used in the HP289 and Boss
302. All others used hydraulic lifters.
Valves operated by mechanical lifters are
adjusted so there is a specified clearance,
or lash between the rocker-arm and the tip
of the valve when the valve is closed to
ensure full valve closure. Hydraulic lifters
are designed t o operate without t h s
lash for quieter engine operation and
lower maintenance requirements. They
also require less precise valve adjustment
than the mechanical type.
Index the Crank-Regardless of which
type of valve-train your engine has, each
valve must be adjusted when it is in the
fully closed position-its lifter must be on
the base-circle of the camshaft lobe. Both
valves of a cylinder are closed when it is
at the TDC of its firing position, however
at least one of the valves will be fully
closed during a cylinder's other three
cycles. So, rather than having to index
a crank eight times to the TDC of each
cylinder, the valve closings have been
combined so it needs to be indexed only
three times. Because of the difference in
firing orders between the 351W and the
other small blocks, the valves adjusted in
the three positions will be different. Start
by positioning the crank on number-one
cylinder TDC.
Fully Adjustable Hydraulic-Finish in-
stalling and adjusting a valve by running
the adjusting nut down its stud until the
slack is taken up in the rocker arm and
pushrod. Wiggle the rocker arm t o make
sure it's in its freest position. When the
slack is taken up, give the adjusting-nut
another 314 turn. The valve is now ad-
justed.and you can go on to the next one.
Fully Adjustable Mechanical-Adjusting
mechanical lifters as opposed t o the
hydraulic type is a whole different deal.
First there is lash, the clearance between
the valve tip and the rocker arm. Lash
must be 0.018 in. when the engine is
at its operating temperature, but it's
impossible to check hot lash at this
point. However, the valves must be
adjusted t o something so you can get on
with your engine assembly and to en-
Wear pattern for rocker-arm end (top) of a
pushrod extends farther around ball than for
the lifter end (bottom). Swap ends when rein-
stalling used pushrods.
able you to start your engine initially.
This something is cold lash. Adjust it to
0.022 in. by using your feeler gauge be-
tween the valve tip and the rocker arm.
Wiggle the rocker arm t o be sure all the
slack is out of the valve train, but so there
is a slight amount of drag on your feeler
gauge as you slide it between the valve
and rocker arm. With the cold lash set,
you'll be able to run your engine so final
hot lash adjustments can be made.
Positive-Stop Hydraulic-The only rne-
thod which can be used to adjust the
valve train using positive stop-type studs
or the later type with stamped rocker
arms is to install longer or shorter push-
rods. This should not be required unless
one of your valve seats required exten-
sive grinding to clean it up, thus causing
the valve stem to extend out of its
guide more. This means a shorter push-
rod may be required. The same applies if
your heads were milled, otherwise you
shouldn't have any problems. Regard-
less of what should be, check your valve-
train settings in their installed positions
t o be sure.
There are two methods for checking
positive-stop type valve trains. The first
one requires a special tool, one that will
be difficult to find. It rotates the rocker
arm against the pushrod while the valve
is in its closed position by hooking under
Ford's oil conditioner is iust one of the many
oil supplements that can be used when as-
sembling your engine_
and cylindrical pivots_ Otherwise, you'll
have the cast rocker arms and ball pivots _
Regardless of which type rocker arms
your engine has, they should be prelubri-
cated prior to their installation_ Apply oil
additive to their pivots and pushrod con -
tact surfaces and moly grease to the valve-
stem tips, Begin the installation by
fitting the rocker arms, pivots and nuts
or bolts to the head_ If you are instal-
ling your old rockers and pivots, remem-
ber to keep the pivots mated with their
rocker arms.
Adjust the Valves-A valve train must be
adjusted when its valve is in the fully
closed position. How the adjustment is
done depends on the type of valve train
in your engine. For example, all small
blocks produced through mid-1968 had
fully adjustable valves. How far the rocker-
arm pivot is moved up and down its stud
with the adjusting nut determines a valve's
adjustment. All 302s produced after mid-
1968 and all 35] Ws do not have fully-
adjustable valves. Their valves are adjusted
by the install a tion of different length
pushrods-O .060-inch longer or shorter
than the standard length.
Another factor in determing how a
valve is adjusted is the type lifters used-
mechanical or hydraulic. Mechanical
lifters were used in the HP289 and Boss
302. All others used hydraulic lifters.
116
Regardless of whether your push rods are new
or not, check to see if they are straight by roil-
ing them on a flat surface. I'm using a kitchen
counter here. If more than 0.020-in. feeler
gauge fits between' the surface and the center of
the push rod, replace the pushrod_ DON'T TRY
TO STRAIGHTEN IT.
Valves operated by mechanical lifters are
adjusted so there is a specified clearance,
or lash between the rocker-arm and the tip
of the valve when the valve is closed to
ensure full valve closure. Hydraulic lifters
are designed to operate without this
lash for quieter engine operation and
lower maintenance requirements . They
also require less precise valve adjustment
than the mechanical type .
Index the Crank-Regardless of which
type of valve-train your engine has, each
valve must be adjusted when it is in the
fully closed position-its lifter must be on
the base-circle of the camshaft lobe. Both
valves of a cylinder are closed when it is
at the TDC of its firing position, however
at least one of the valves will be fully
closed during a cylinder'S other three
cycles. So, rather than having to index
a crank eight times to the TDC of each
cylinder, the valve closings have been
combined so it needs to be indexed only
three times. Because of the difference in
firing orders between the 351W and the
other small blocks, the valves adjusted in .
the three positions will be different. Start
by positioning the crank on number-one
cylinder TDC_
Fully Adjustable Hydraulic-Finish in-
stalling and adjusting a valve by running
the adjusting nut down its stud until the
slack is taken up in the rocker arm and
pushrod . Wiggle the rocker arm to make
sure it's in its freest position. When the
slack is taken up, give the adjusting-nut
another 3/4 turn . The valve is now ad-
justed and you can go on to the next one.
Fully Adjustable Mechanical-Adjusting
mechanical lifters as opposed to the
hydraulic type is a whole different deaL
First there is lash, the clearance between
the valve tip and the rocker arm. Lash
must be 0.018 in. when the engine is
at its operating temperature, but it's
impossible to check hot lash at this
pain t. However, the valves must be
adjusted to something so you can get on
with your engine assembly and to en-
Wear pattern for rocker-arm end (top) of a
push rod extends farther around ball than for
the lifter end (bottom). Swap ends when rein-
stalling used push rods.
able you to start your engine initially.
This something is cold lash. Adjust it to
0.022 in. by using your feeler gauge be-
tween the valve tip and the rocker arm.
Wiggle the rocker arm to be sure all the
slack is au t of the valve train, bu t so there
is a slight amount of drag on your feeler
gauge as you slide it between the valve
and rocker arm. With the cold lash set,
you'll be able to run your engine so final
hot lash adjustments can be made.
Positive-Stop Hydraulic-The only me-
thod which can be used to adjust the
valve train using positive stop-type studs
or the later type with stamped rocker
arms is to install longer or shorter push-
rods. This should not be required unless
one of your valve seats required exten-
sive grinding to clean it up, thus causing
the valve stem to extend out of its
guide more. This means a shorter push-
rod may be required. The same applies if
your heads were milled , otherwise you
shouldn't have any problems . Regard-
less of what should be, check your valve-
train settings in their installed positions
to be sure.
There are two methods for checking
positive-stop type valve trains . The first
one requires a special tool, one that will
be difficult to find. It rotates the rocker
arm against the pushrod while the valve
is in its closed position by hooking under
A new rocker arm, pivot and nut. Lubricate your rocker arms well as you install them. Dipping a
clean screwdriver i n oil is an easy way of doing this.
Start with cylinder 1 on TDC when adjusting your valves. When adjusting hydraulic valves, rotate
the pushrod to feel for takeup, then turn the nut another 314 turn.
-
lent with a I
feeler gauge. The ~ b s s 302 and HP289'vaives
have to be static adjusted now during assembly,
then later when the engine can be run for hot
lashing. Photo courtesy Ford.
Point 1
No. I lntake No. I Exhaust
No. 7 lntake No. 5 Exhaust
351 W
1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Point 2
No. 5 lntake No. 2 Exhaun
Point 1 No. 1 @ TDC (end of compression
stroke).
Point 2 Rotate crank clockwise 180'
(half turn) so point 2 lines up
with pointer.
Point 3 Rotate crank clockwise 270'
(314 turn) from point 2 t o
point 3.
I
Point 3
No. 2 lntake
No. 3 lntake
No. 6 lntake
No. 7 Exhaust
No. 3 Exhaust
No. 8 Exhaust
No. 2 lntake
No. 5 lntake
No. 6 lntake
No. 4 Exhaust
No. 5 Exhaust
No. 8 Exhaust
I
Use this chart to save time when adjusting your valves. Adjust the valves indicated in the positions shown. I f it confuses you, go through your engine's
firing order t o do the adjusting.
A new rocker arm, pivot and nut. Lubricate your rocker arms well as you install them. Dipping a
clean screwdriver in oil is an easy way of doing this.
Start with cylinder 1 on TDC when adjusting your valves . When adjusting hydraulic valves, rotate
the push rod to feel for takeup, then turn the nut another 3/4 turn.
Point 1 No.1 @ TDC (end of compression
stroke) .
221,260,289,302
1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Point 1
No.1 Intake No . 1 Exhaust
No.7 Intake No . 5 Exhaust
No.8 Intake No.4 Exhaust
Point 2
No.5 Intake
No.4 Intake
No.2 Exhaust
No.6 Exhaust
Boss 302 Valve adjustment with a step-type
feeler gauge. The Boss 302 and HP289 valves
have to be static adjusted now during assembly,
then later when the engine can be run for hot
lashing. Photo courtesy Ford.
351W
1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
No.8 Intake No. 7 Exhaust
No.3 Intake
No.7 Intake
No.2 Exhaust
No. 6 Exhaust
Point 2
Point 3
o
Rotate crank clockwise 180
(half turn) so point 2 lines up
with pointer.
Rotate crank clockwise 270
0
(3/4 turn) from point 2 to
point 3.
Point 3
No.2 Intake
No.3 Intake
No.6 Intake
(8)st
1
(8)
o 2 ~
No.7 Exhaust ~ . 6 ~ No. 2 Intake No.4 Exhaust
No.3 Exhaust ~ 7 3 ~ No.5 Intake No . 5 Exhaust
No.8 Exhaust 0 ('":;\ J., No.6 Intake No.8 Exhaust
~ 8 ~ 4 ~
Use this chart to save time when adjusting your valves. Adjust the valves indicated in the positions shown. If it confuses you, go through your engine's
firing order to do the adjusting.
117
Intake-manifold studs on the 302 are handy for Where 90% of all small-block Ford oil leaks come from. Use adhesive sealer here with a dab of sili-
locating head-to-manifold gaskets. I f your cone sealer where the side and end gaskets join. Don't forget sealer around the water passages.
engine isn't equipped with these studs you can
order them under Ford part number 382198-S.
You'll also need the 374031-S nuts. Stud
size is 5/16-18 thread x 2.318" long.
the rocker arm on the valve-side of its
pivot and pushing down on the rocker
arm on the pushrod-side. The purpose of
this is to collapse the lifter while the
valve-tip-to-rocker-arm clearance is
checked with a feeler gauge-the gauge
can't be more than 318411. wide when
used with rail-type rocker arms. The tool
you'll need for rotating the rocker arm
is Ford's special tool 6513-AC. 302
engines should have 0.090-0.190-in.
clearance whereas the clearance for
351Ws is 0.106-0.206-in. Like I said,
you'll have a difficult time finding this
tool so let's take a look at the second
alternative.
Just as rocker-arm-to-valve-stem clear-
ance is directly proportional to lifter col-
lapse, so is the vertical movement of the
rocker-arm nut. How many times this
nut is turned collapses its lifter a given
amount. This basic fact eliminates the
need for any special tool, thus making the
job much easier and less involved.
To determine if you need different
length pushrods count the number of
rocker-arm-nut turns it takes t o bottom
each rocker-arm pivot on its stud
shoulder from the point all slack is taken
out of the pushrod and rocker arm,
but before any lifter plunger travel oc-
curs. Wiggle the rocker arm and rotate
the pushrod to check for slack, and look
at the lifter to see if its plunger has
moved. Run the nut down while keeping
track of the turns. When the pivot bot-
.toms, or turning torque increases, stop
turning and counting. If you're in the
tolerance range finish the job by torquing
the nut 17-23 ft. lbs. Different tolerances
are called for 302 and 351 engine, con-
sequently there will be a different num-
ber of turns for the two engines. It should
take 0.8 t o 1.75 turns for 302 Agines
and 1 to 1.8 turns for the 35 1 W. If fewer
turns are required, you need a shorter
Carefully lower the intake manifold in place.
DON' T SHI FT THE GASKETS OUT OF
PLACE.
Al l but the end bolts use washers under their
heads for sealing-don't forget them. Torque
the manifold bolts in the proper sequence.
pushrod and a longer one if more are
required.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
Before covering the lifter valley up
with the intake manifold, pour the rest
of your oil additive over the valve lifters
and on the rocker-arm pivots. You won't
need it any more and you might as well
put it where it'll do the most good.
You'll need 4 gaskets to install the intake
manifold, 2 asbestos gaskets t o seal the
manifold to each cylinder head and 2
cork gaskets to seal both ends of the man-
ifold t o the block. These are the ones that
classically leak, so pay particular atten-
tion to them, otherwise it's very likely
you'll have a healthy oil leak at one or
both ends of the manifold to the block.
In addition t o the gaskets, you'll need
two types of sealer, the adhesiv-e type and
silicone. Finally, you'll need the attach-
ing hardware: 12 grade-8 5/16-18 x
2-114-in.-long bolts or 8 5/16-18 x 2-114-
in.-long studs with their nuts if your en-
gine is a 302. 35 1 Ws use 12 bolts and 4
studs, all with 5/16-18 threads.
Put the Caskets in Place-Before the in-
take manifold can be installed, the gas-
kets must be located on the heads and the
block. If you have a 302, make sure the 4
studs are threaded into the head. Locate
each one in the second hole in from both
ends of each head. These are great for po-
sitioning the manifold-to-head gaskets
and for guiding the manifold in place
when you're installing it-too bad the
other engines aren't equipped with the
studs. Run a bead of sealer around the
water passage openings at the end of both
heads and lay the manifold-to-head gas-
kets in place. They are designed so both
ends of their lower corners hook into pro-
jections on the cylinder-head gasket.
Now comes the "problem child," the
manifold-to-block gaskets. These gaskets
cause 90% of the small-block Ford oil
leaks. The gaskets are installed neatly on
the block, then the manifold is carefully
laid in place on the engine. Everything
Intakemanifold studs on the 302 are handy for
locating headtomanifold gaskets. If your
engine isn't equipped with these studs you can
order them under Ford part number 382198S.
You'll also need the 374031S nuts. Stud
size is 5/1618 thread x 23/8" long.
the rocker arm on the valve-side of its
pivot and pushing down on the rocker
arm on the pushrod-side. The purpose of
this is to collapse the lifter while the
valve-tip-to-rocker-arm clearance is
checked with a feeler gauge-the gauge
can't be more than 3 /8-in . wide when
used with rail-type rocker arms. The tool
you'll need for rotating the rocker arm
is Ford's special tool 6513-AC. 302
engines should have 0.090-0.l90-in.
clearance whereas the clearance for
351 Ws is 0.1 06-0 .206-in. Like I said,
you'll have a difficult time finding this
tool so let's take a look at the second
alternative .
Just as rocker-arm-to-valve-stem clear-
ance is directly proportional to lifter col-
lapse, so is the vertical movement of the
rocker-arm nut. How many times this
nut is turned collapses its lifter a given
amount. This basic fact eliminates the
need for any special tool, thus making the
job much easier and less involved.
To determine if you need different
length pushrods count the number of
rocker-arm-nut turns it takes to bottom
each rocker-arm pivot on its stud
shoulder from the point all slack is taken
out of the pushrod and rocker arm,
but before any lifter plunger travel oc-
curs . Wiggle the rocker arm and rotate
the pushrod to check for slack, and look
at the lifter to see if its plunger has
moved. Run the nut down while keeping
track of the turns. When the pivot bot-
,toms, or turning torque increases, stop
turning and counting. If you're in the
tolerance range finish the job by torquing
the nut 17-23 ft.lbs. Different tolerances
are called for 302 and 351 engine, con-
sequently there will be a different num-
ber of turns for the two engines . It should
take 0.8 to \.75 turns for 302 engines
and \ to 1.8 turns for the 351W. If fewer
turns are required, you need a shorter
118
Where 90% of all smallblock Ford oil leaks come from. Use adhesive sealer here with a dab of sili
cone sealer where the side and end gaskets join. Don't forget sealer around the water passages.
Carefullv lower the intake manifold in place.
DON'T SHIFT THE GASKETS OUT OF
PLACE.
push rod and a longer one if more are
required.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
Before covering the lifter valley up
with the intake manifold, pour the rest
of your oil additive over the valve lifters
and on the rocker-arm pivots. You won't
need it any more and you might as well
put it where it'll do the most good .
You'll need 4 gaskets to install the intake
manifold, 2 asbestos gaskets to seal the
manifold to each cylinder head and 2
cork gaskets to seal both ends of the man-
ifold to the block. These are the ones that
classically leak, so pay particular atten-
tion to them, otherwise it's very likely
you'll have a healthy oil leak at one or
both ends of the manifold to the block.
In addition to the gaskets, you'll need
two types of sealer, the adhesiv_e type and
silicone. Finally, you'll need the attach-
ing hardware: 12 grade-8 5/16-18 x
2-1/4-in.-long bolts or 8 5/16-18 x 2-1/4-
in.-Iong studs with their nuts if your en-
All but the end bolts use washers under their
heads for sealing-don't forget them. Torque
the manifold bolts in the proper sequence.
gine is a 302. 351Ws use 12 bolts and 4
studs, all with 5/16-18 threads.
Put the Gaskets in Place-Before the in-
take manifold can be installed, the gas-
kets must be located on the heads and the
block. If you have a 302, make sure the 4
studs are threaded into the head. Locate
each one in the second hole in from both
ends of each head. These are great for po-
sitioning the manifold-to-head gaskets
and for guiding the manifold in place
when you're installing it-too bad the
other engines aren't equipped with the
studs. Run a bead of sealer around the
water passage openings at the end of both
heads and lay the manifold-to-head gas-
kets in place. They are designed so both
ends of their lower corners hook into pro-
jections on the cylinder-head gasket.
Now comes the "problem child, " the
manifold-to-block gaskets. These gaskets
cause 90% of the small-block Ford oil
leaks. The gaskets are installed neatly on
the block, then the manifold is carefully
laid in place on the engine. Everything
looks good up t o this point. As the mani-
fold is tightened down, the gaskets begin
t o squeeze out from behind the manifold
and the block t o the inside where they
can' t be seen. The eventual result is an
oil leak.
To install your manifold-to-block gas-
kets successfully you' ll have t o adhere
them t o the block so t hey can't squeeze
out . This is where gasket adhesive or
weatherstrip adhesive is invaluable.
Before applying any sealer t o the block,
clean the gasket surfaces with lacquer
thinner, then you can apply a thin bead
of sealer t o the block's gasket surfaces
and spread it out evenly with a finger
tip. Do the same thing t o the mating side
of the gaskets so when the t wo surfaces
contact each other they stick. However,
before installing the gaskets let t he sealer
dry t o the point of being tacky, then
install t hem. Now apply silicone sealer
around .the cylinder-head-to-manifold
water passages and install the gaskets on
the heads. Make sure t he ends of the gas-
kets interlock with t he block-to-manifold
gaskets. Some more silicone sealer around
t he four water-passage openings and some
at the junction of t he four gaskets fol-
lowed by a bead of gasket adhesive sealer
on t op of the block gaskets and you can
install t he manifold. Letting t he adhesive
sealer get tacky before you install the
manifold will further ensure t he end
gaskets won' t squeeze out .
Install your intake manifold by lower-
ing it carefully over t he gaskets. If you
have a 302, t he 4 studs solve this prob-
lem, otherwise avoid shifting the mani-
fold on t he engine once it's down on t he
gaskets-you may slide them out of place.
This is difficult t o do because of the
weight of the manifold, but it's also
necessary. Try t o sight down on t he mani-
fold and the t op of t he engine so you can
see what you' re doing. Thread the bolts
i nt o place and begin tightening t hem.
Keep an eye on t he gaskets t o make sure
they stay in place. Tighten the bolts and
final torque t hem in the sequence shown
in the sketch. There is a unique sequence
for the 351 Ws because of their four addi-
tional attachments. In sequence, torque
the bolts and st ud nut s in t wo stages, the
first one 15-1 7 ft . lbs. and the final one
20-22 ft . lbs. Because the gaskets relax,
go back over the bolts and retorque t hem
until they've fully compressed.
Sealer Instead of Gaskets-Another met h-
od of sealing t he intake manifold t o t he
engine block is t o substitute silicone sealer
in place of t he t wo cork end gaskets. This
method avoids the possibility of t he gas-
kets squeezing out , however, the block
and manifold gasket surfaces must be
clean for the silicone t o work. Therefore,
take special care t o clean these surfaces
using lacquer thinner. Now, with t he
STEP 1 15-17 f t . Ibs.
STEP 2 23-25 f t . Ibs.
Intake-manifold torquing sequences:
cylinder-head-to-manifold gaskets in place
apply a 114-in. bead of silicone sealer t o
t he cylinder-block gasket surfaces-just
enough so the intake manifold will contact
and squeeze t he bead wide enough t o seal
after t he manifold is torqued down. In-
stall t he manifold as previously outlined
being careful not t o disturb the 2 cylinder-
head gaskets and silicone beads, t hen
t orque the manifold bolts in sequence.
Valve Covers-Without using any gasket
sealer, install t he valve-cover gaskets in
their valve covers. Insert the tabs on t he
periphery of each gasket in the notches
provided for them in t he valve-cover
flanges. Someone was using his grey
mat t er when he thought these up. You
don' t have t o worry about the gasket
shifting or falling out of place when
installing t he covers.
With the gaskets in place, install t he
covers on t he cylinder heads. Secure
them with 6 1/ 4-20 x 518-inch-long bolts
with their lock washers. Don't over-torque
these bolts or you'll succeed in bending
t he valve-cover flanges and not much else.
Torque t he bolts 3-5 ft . lbs. Retorque
t hem after t he gasket has had time t o
compress.
Exhaust Manifolds-In your gasket set
you'll find 2 exhaust-manifold gaskets.
They are either composition-type gaskets-
asbestos and metal-or all-metal. If you
have t he composition t ype, mount t he
metal side against t he manifold-it will be
marked MANI FOLD SI DE. Use adhesive
sealer on t he gasket. Apply it t o bot h sides
of t he all-metal gaskets, but just the metal
side of the composition gaskets. Mount
each manifold and gasket loosely with a
short bolt at t he front and rear of the
manifold. Because an exhaust manifold
can float around on t he mounting surface
of its cylinder head due t o oversized
mounting holes, it's possible that they
will end up being positioned t oo low on
the cylinder head. If this happens, there
won' t be enough room t o use your spark-
plug socket. With this in mi nd, snug t he
2 bolts down while lifting up on t he man-
ifold t o position t he manifold high enough
t o be able t o service your sparkplugs.
Install t he ot her exhaust-manifold
bolts, but don' t do it indiscriminately.
There may be 2 or 4 of the long manifold
bolts which have studs protruding from
their heads. If you have 2 of these, they
go in t he middle of the right manifold.
looks good up to this point. As the mani-
fold is tightened down, the gaskets begin
to squeeze out from behind the manifold
and the block to the inside where they
can't be seen. The eventual result is an
oil leak.
To install your manifold-to-block gas-
kets successfully you'll have to adhere
them to the block so they can't squeeze
out. This is where gasket adhesive or
weatherstrip adhesive is invaluable.
Before applying any sealer to the block,
clean the gasket surfaces with lacquer
thinner, then you can apply a thin bead
of sealer to the block's gasket surfaces
and spread it out evenly with a finger
tip. Do the same thing to the mating side
of the gaskets so when the two surfaces
contact each other they stick. However,
before installing the gaskets let the sealer
dry to the point of being tacky, then
install them. Now apply silicone sealer
around the cylinder-head-to-manifold
water passages and install the gaskets on
the heads. Make sure the ends of the gas-
kets interlock with the block-to-manifold
gaskets. Some more silicone sealer around
the four water-passage openings and some
at the junction of the four gaskets fol-
lowed by a bead of gasket adhesive sealer
on top of the block gaskets and you can
install the manifold. Letting the adhesive
sealer get tacky before you install the
manifold will further ensure the end
gaskets won't squeeze out.
Install your intake manifold by lower-
ing it carefully over the gaskets. If you
have a 302, the 4 studs solve this prob-
lem, otherwise avoid shifting the mani-
fold on the engine once it's down on the
gaskets-you may slide them out of place.
This is difficult to do because of the
weight of the manifold, but it's also
necessary. Try to Sight down on the mani-
fold and the top of the engine so you can
see what you're doing. Thread the bolts
into place and begin tightening them.
Keep an eye on the gaskets to make sure
they stay in place. Tighten the bolts and
final torque them in the sequence shown
in the sketch. There is a unique sequence
for the 351 Ws because of their four addi-
tional attachments. In sequence, torque
the bolts and stud nuts in two stages, the
first one 15-17 ft. Ibs. and the final one
20-22 ft. Ibs. Because the gaskets relax,
go back over the bolts and retorque them
until they've fully compressed.
Sealer Instead of Gaskets-Another meth-
od of sealing the intake manifold to the
engine block is to substitute silicone sealer
in place of the two cork end gaskets. This
method avoids the possibility of the gas-
kets squeezing out, however, the block
and manifold gasket surfaces must be
clean for the silicone to work. Therefore,
take special care to clean these surfaces
using lacquer thinner. Now, with the
5 ) ~ _ ill ill 15
- ~ 1 PRE '77 351W
,,\ ~ ! STEP 1 15-17 ft.lbs.
I ) _ STEP 2 23-25 ft. Ibs.
~ - ,
@@ @ @@
Intake-manifold torquing sequences,
cylinder-head-to-manifold gaskets in place
apply a 1/4-in. bead of silicone sealer to
the cylinder-block gasket surfaces-just
enough so the intake manifold will contact
and squeeze the bead wide enough to seal
after the manifold is torqued down. In-
stall the manifold as previously outlined
being careful not to disturb the 2 cylinder-
head gaskets and silicone beads, then
torque the manifold bolts in sequence.
Valve Covers-Without using any gasket
sealer, install the valve-cover gaskets in
their valve covers. Insert the tabs on the
periphery of each gasket in the notches
provided for them in the valve-cover
flanges. Someone was using his grey
matter when he thought these up. You
don't have to worry about the gasket
shifting or falling out of place when
installing the covers.
With the gaskets in place, install the
covers on the cylinder heads. Secure
them with 6 1/4-20 x S/8-inch-long bolts
with their lock washers. Don't over-torque
these bolts or you'll succeed in bending
the valve-cover flanges and not much else.
Torque the bolts 3-5 ft. Ibs. Retorque
them after the gasket has had time to
compress.
Exhaust Manifolds-In your gasket set
you'll find 2 exhaust-manifold gaskets.
They are either composition-type gaskets-
asbestos and metal-or all-metal. If you
have the composition type, mount the
metal side against the manifold-it will be
marked MANIFOLD SIDE. Use adhesive
sealer on the gasket. Apply it to both sides
of the all-metal gaskets, but just the metal
side of the composition gaskets. Mount
each manifold and gasket loosely with a
short bolt at the front and rear of the
manifold. Because an exhaust manifold
can float around on the mounting surface
of its cylinder head due to oversized
mounting holes, it's possible that they
will end up being positioned too low on
the cylinder head. If this happens, there
won't be enough room to use your spark-
plug socket. With this in mind, snug the
2 bolts down while lifting up on the man-
ifold to position the manifold high enough
to be able to service your sparkplugs.
Install the other exhaust-manifold
bolts, but don't do it indiscriminately.
There may be 2 or 4 of the long manifold
bolts which have studs protruding from
their heads. If you have 2 of these, they
go in the middle of the right manifold.
119
Using the valve-cover gasket ears to hold them
not required, but i f you want t o use sealer. pu
the sheet-metal or cast-aluminum covers don't a
place, install the valve covers on your engine. It's
: on the valve-coven only. To keep from bending
-tighten the bolts (3-5 ft.lbs.1.
Apply adhesive sealer to the exhaust manifold only when using gaskets. Use silicone sealer when you're not using gaskets. Metal side of composition
gasket goes against manifold. When installing your manifold, check spark-plug socket clearance, then secure it. Torque the bolts twice. Now, and then
later after the gaskets relax.
They are for attaching the heat-riser
shroud. If you have 2 more they may be
for attaching spark plug shrouds to the
left side of the engine. I say "maybe"
because some engines have these bolts,
but nothing attaches to them. Anyway,
one is used at both ends of the left ex-
haust manifold regardless of whether
anything is attached or not as they come
from the factory. Torque the manifold
bolts 18-24 ft. lbs. for the pre-'77 351 W
and 13-1 8 ft. lbs. for the rest. Retorque
them later if you have the composition
gaskets. Youll find that you can give
each bolt another quarter turn or so.
Miscellaneous Hardware-The major por-
tion of the components which make up
your final engine assembly are now in
one piece, however there are a lot of little
parts yet to be installed on your engine.
There are even some that are not quite so
little. What additional parts you install
now must be weighed against the pros
and cons. For example, how hard is it to
install now as opposed to after your engine
is installed, whether or not the part will
interfere with installing the engine, the
possibility of the part being damaged dur-
ing the installation and the weight added
t o the engine-will your lifting device
handle the additional weight? You'll have
t o decide what to install and what not t o
now. I'll describe what worked best for
me and let you take it from there.
Install the Thermostat and Its Housing-
Install a new thermostat in your intake-
manifold coolant outlet. Make sure you
have it pointed in the right direction.
Which direction goes toward the engine
will be indicated on the thermostat. Posi-
tion the thermostat in its housing with
the end indicating TOWARD ENGI NE
projecting out of the housing. There will
be a relief for the housing flange t o sit in.
Apply adhesive-type sealer t o the housing
gasket surface-make sure you circle all
the holes with the sealer- then install
the gasket on the housing. Coat the oppo-
site side of the gasket with sealer and
install the thermostat and housing assem-
bly t o the intake manifold using two
5/16-18 x I-inch-long bolts with lock
washers. Torque the bolts 12-15 ft.lbs.
If you removed the vacuum control
valve from the thermostat housing, re-
install it. Coat the thread with sealer first,
then install it snugly in the tousing. Posi-
tion the valve so it points 90 to the right.
Intake-Manifold Hardware-If your intake
manifold was stripped during the re-
conditioning process, reinstall the water-
temperature sending unit, the heater-hose
inlet fitting and the vacuum manifold if
your engine was so equipped. Also, if
you have the 221 or 260 engine with PCV
system, install the crankcase outlet fitting
at the back of the manifold. All but the
PCV outlet use pipe threads, consequently
they don't have t o be torqued t o seal,
just tighten them. If they have t o be in-
stalled in any specific direction, use sealer
on their threads. If you have Teflon-tape
sealer, use it.
When installing the heater-hose inlet
fitting, rotate it in the manifold so its
hose end points 90" t o the right. Don't
overtighten it, it just has to be snug to
seal. The reason for rotating in this man-
ner is t o facilitate better heater-hose
routing.
As you can tell by the many parts left
Using the valve-cover gasket ears to hold them in place, install the valve covers on your engine. It's
not required, but if you want to use sealer, put it on the valve-covers only. To keep from bending
the sheet-metal or cast-aluminum covers don't over-tighten the bolts (3-5 ft.lbs .l.
Apply adhesive sealer to the exhaust manifold only when using gaskets. Use silicone sealer when you're not using gaskets . Metal side of composition
gasket goes against manifold. When installing your manifold, check spark-plug socket clearance, then secure it. Torque the bolts twice. Now, and then
later after the gaskets relax.
They are for attaching the heat-riser
shroud. If you have 2 more they may be
for attaching spark plug shrouds to the
left side of the engine . I say "maybe"
because some engines have these bolts ,
but nothing attaches to them. Anyway,
one is used at both ends of the left ex-
haust manifold regardless of whether
anything is attached or not as they come
from the factory . Torque the manifold
bolts 18-24 ft. lbs. for the pre-' n 351 W
and 13-18 ft. lbs . for the rest. Retorque
them later if you have the composition
gaskets. You'll find that you can give
each bolt another quarter turn or so.
Miscellaneous Hardware-The major por-
tion of the components which make up
your final engine assembly are now in
one piece, however there are a lot of little
parts yet to be installed on your engine.
There are even some that are not quite so
little. What additional parts you install
now must be weighed against the pros
and cons. For example, how hard is it to
install now as opposed to after your engine
is installed , whether or not the part will
interfere with installing the engine, the
120
possibility of the part being damaged dur-
ing the installation and the weight added
to the engine- will your lifting device
handle the additional weight ? You' ll have
to decide what to install and what not to
now. I'll describe what worked best for
me and let you take it from there.
Install the Thermostat and Its Housing-
Install a new thermostat in your intake-
manifold coolant outlet. Make sure you
have it pointed in the right direction.
Which direction goes toward the engine
will be indicated on the thermostat. Posi-
tion the thermostat in its housing with
the end indicating TOWARD ENGINE
projecting out of the housing. There will
be a relief for the housing flange to sit in.
Apply adhesive-type sealer to the housing
gasket surface- make sure you circle all
the holes with the sealer- then install
the gasket on the housing. Coat the oppo-
site side of the gasket with sealer and
install the thermostat and housing assem-
bly to the intake manifold using two
5/16-18 x l-inch-Iong bolts with lock
washers. Torque the bolts 12-15 ft.lbs.
If you removed the vacuum control
valve from the thermostat housing, re-
install it. Coat the thread with sealer first ,
then install it snugly in the housing. Posi-
tion the valve so it points 90 to the right.
Intake-Manifold Hardware-If your in take
manifold was stripped during the re-
conditioning process, reinstall the water-
temperature sending unit, the heater-hose
inlet fitting and the vacuum manifold if
your engine was so equipped . Also, if
you have the 221 or 260 engine with PCV
system, install the crankcase outlet fitting
at the back of the manifold. All but the
PCV outlet use pipe threads , consequently
they don't have to be torqued to seal,
just tighten them. If they have to be in-
stalled in any specific direction , use sealer
on their threads . If you have Teflon-tape
sealer, use it.
When installing the heater-hose inlet
fitting, rotate it in the manifold so its
hose end points 90 to the right. Don't
overtighten it, it just has to be snug to
seal. The reason for rotating in this man-
ner is to facilitate better heater-hose
routing.
As you can tell by the many parts left
+ y c ~ ~ ~ u ~ ~ ~ o ~ S P ~ E R
HEATER HOSE FITTING
WATER TEMPERATURE
? SENDING UNIT
INTAKE MANIFOLD
THERMOSTATIC
DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM
CONTROL VALVE
THERMOSTAT
COOLANT OUTLET HOUSIN
b
Some of the hardware attached t o an intake manifold. Drawing courtesy Ford.
Thermostat goes in the housing before the
gasket goes on. Make sure you have the thermo-
stat pointed in the right direction.
t o install on your engine, there are quite
a few that can be installed now rather
than after it's back in its engine compart-
ment. However, let's get on with the ac-
tual engine installation because most of
the remaining parts and components are
easier t o install just prior t o the time your
engine is lowered into its compartment
while it is hanging inmid air-or after
it's in place.
I f your manifold-to-heater-hose .fitting looks
anything like the one at left, replace it! It's
another example of what using water only as
coolant does to cooling-system components.
A llttle bead ot sealer around the first couple of threads and you can install your heater-inlet fitting. Installing the water-temperature sending unit.
Rotate the fitting t o point between the carburetor and the right valve cover for proper hose routing. Seal i t s threads too.
SPACER

HOSE FITTING
: ""
I WATER TEMPERATURE
SENDING UNIT
INTAKE MANIFOLD
Some of the hardware attached to an intake manifold. Drawing courtesy Ford.

-------=--"
C() ;'Z- 18.9S-B
S)
A little bead of sealer around the first couple of threads and you can install your heaterinlet fitting.
Rotate the fitting to point between the carburetor and the right valve cover for proper hose routing.
Thermostat goes in the housing before the
gasket goes on. Make sure you have the thermo
stat pointed in the right direction.
to install on your engine, there are quite
a few that can be installed now rather
than after it's back in its engine compart-
ment. However, let's get on with the ac-
tual engine installation because most of
the remaining parts and components are
easier to install just prior to the time your
engine is lowered into its compartment
while it is hanging in mid air-or after
it's in place.
If your manifoldtoheaterhose . fitting looks
anything like the one at left, replace itl It's
another example of what using water only as
coolant does to coolingsystem components.
I nstalling the water-temperature sending unit.
Seal its threads too.
121
8
Distributor Rebuild
1968 302-2V equipped with a dual-diaphragm vacuum advance/
retard distributor. This engine has served as the base V-8 in most
Ford passenger cars and light trucks at one time or another since
1968. Photo courtesy Ford.
Due to the general lack of information
concerning distributor rebuilding, this
chapter explains how to determine if
your distributor needs to be rebuilt, then
shows how to do it. Before tearing into
your distributor, find out which one you
have. Several types have been used on
small-block Fords, however rebuilding is
basically the same regardless of the type
of distributor.
Two basic type of distributors are
installed in small-block Fords: breaker-
point type and breakerless (solid-state)
type. The difference is how they produce
a spark. The breaker-point distributor
works by closing and opening a set of
breaker, or contact points on a breaker
plate. The breakerless distributor accom-
plishes the same thing electronically
through a magnetic triggering device and
an amplifying module.
Otherwise the two are basically the
same. Both are driven at 112 crankshaft
speed by a gear on the camshaft through
a shaft whch runs in bushing/s in the
distributor housing. Distributors installed
in engines prior t o 1970 may or may not
use two replaceable bushings. Beginning
in. 1970 all distributors use the top bush-
ing only and depend on the nose of the
bottom end of the distributor shaft run-
ning in the block t o support the gear end
of the shaft.
On the upper end of the distributor
shaft is a cam which operates breaker
points, or an armature that triggers the
magnetic pickup. The cam or armature is
free to rotate on the shaft within limits.
This rotation is controlled by centrifugal
advance weights which cause spark timing
t o change with RPM.
Mounted on the same shaft above the
cam is the rotor, common to both types
of distributors. As it rotates, it completes
the circuit between the coil and each
spark plug in the correct firing order. The
distributor base plate mounts the breaker
plate or the magnetic-pickup assembly.
Otherwise the two types of distributors
are the same.
Small-block distributors are the dual-
advance type. To change spark timing,
they have centrifugal-advance weights to
rotate the cam or armature and one or
two vacuum diaphragmls which rotate
the breaker plate or magnetic pickup
assembly around the center shaft. One
exception is the dual-point distributor
used on all HP289s and Boss 302s. They
use two sets of breaker points instead of
the usual single set. The HP289 does not
have a vacuum-advance diaphragm. Its
breaker plate is fixed.
~ n o t h e r variation occurs at the
vacuum-advance diaphragm in the dual-
advance distributors. All pre-1968 distrib-
utors use a single diaphragm operated by
carburetor venturj vacuum. Beginning in
1968, the dual diaphragm was used for
emission-control reasons on engines sold
in some areas. This unit uses the carbur-
etor-vacuum-actuated diaphragm. It also
has a vacuum-retard diaphragm in tandem
to retard the distributor when there is
high manifold vacuum-at idle and during
deceleration when the throttle is closed.
Other than the diaphragm, the two dis-
tributors are mechanically the same even
though they have different advance/
retard curves. All solid-state distributors
use the dual diaphragm exclusively. Those
in 1977 models and later years are equip-
ped with a larger diameter distributor cap
with an adapter between the distributor
housing and the cap. These also use a
unique rotor, and wiring harness leads
with spark plug-type connectors at both
ends.
Does It Need Rebuilding?-As with your
engine, you must first determine if your
distributor needs rebuilding. Remove the
cap and rotor, then wiggle the upper end
of the shaft back and forth-or at least
try to. If it moves a noticeable amount,
something is worn too much. It could be
the ID of the cam or sleeve, or the upper
shaft bushing. To isolate the two, remove
the cam from the end of the shaft using
the procedure on page 125, then try
wiggling the shaft. If it still moves you
know it's the bushing. If it doesn't, then
it's the cam or sleeve ID. The problem
could be a worn shaft, but it'll probably
be t he bushing or the cam or sleeve. To
make sure it's not the shaft, mike its
upper portion that runs in the bushing
and compare this figure to what you get
when miking an unworn section of the
shaft. To do this you'll have to remove
the shaft, so refer t o the teardown section
later in this chapter. First I'll describe a
more accurate way of determining if your
distributor needs rebuilding.
Let Performance Be the Judge-Let your
distributor's performance be the deter-
mining factor as t o whether it needs atten-
tion or not. To do this, take it t o a shop
which has a distributor test set. Check for
proper centrifugal advance and vacuum
advancelretard-applies to both types of
distributors-and dwell variation for the
breaker-point type. Chances are your
centrifugal-advance mechanism will check
out OK. If it doesn't, a minor adjustment
should correct the problem. Possibly the
weight pivots need to be cleaned and
8 Distributor Rebuild
1968 3022V equipped with a dualdiaphragm vacuum advance!
retard distributor. This engine has served as the base V-8 in most
Ford passenger cars and light trucks at one time or another since
1968. Photo courtesy Ford.
Due to the general lack of information
concerning distributor rebuilding, this
chapter explains how to determine if
your distributor needs to be rebuilt, then
shows how to do it. Before tearing into
your distribu tor, find ou t which one you
have. Several types have been used on
small-block Fords, however rebuilding is
basically the same regardless of the type
of distribu tor.
Two basic type of distributors are
installed in small-block Fords: breaker-
point type and breakerless (solid-state)
type . The difference is how they produce
a spark. The breaker-point distributor
works by closing and opening a set of
breaker, or contact points on a breaker
plate. The breakerless distributor accom-
plishes the same thing electronically
through a magnetic triggering device and
an amplifying module.
Otherwise the two are basically the
same . Both are driven at 1/2 crankshaft
speed by a gear on the camshaft through
a shaft which runs in bushing/s in the
distributor housing. Distributors installed
in engines prior to 1970 mayor may not
use two replaceable bushings. Beginning
in 1970 all distributors use the top bush-
ing only and depend on the nose of the
bottom end of the distributor shaft run-
ning in the block to support the gear end
of the shaft .
On the upper end of the distributor
shaft is a cam which operates breaker
points , or an armature that triggers the
magnetic pickup. The cam or armature is
free to rotate on the shaft within limits.
This rotation is controlled by centrifugal
advance weights which cause spark timing
to change with RPM.
Mounted on the same shaft above the
122
cam is the rotor, common to both types
of distributors. As it rotates, it completes
the circuit between the coil and each
spark plug in the correct firing order. The
distributor base plate mounts the breaker
plate or the magnetic-pickup assembly.
Otherwise the two types of distributors
are the same.
Small-block distributors are the dual-
advance type. To change spark timing,
they have centrifugal-advance weights to
rotate the cam or armature and one or
two vacuum diaphragm/s which rotate
the breaker plate or magnetic pickup
assembly around the center shaft. One
exception is the dual-point distributor
used on all HP289s and Boss 302s. They
use two sets of breaker points instead of
the usual single set. The HP289 does not
have a vacuum-advance diaphragm. Its
breaker plate is fixed.
Another variation occurs at the
vacuum-advance diaphragm in the dual-
advance distributors. All pre-1968 distrib-
u tors use a single diaphragm operated by
carburetor venturi vacuum. Beginning in
1968, the dual diaphragm was used for
emission-control reasons on engines sold
in some areas. This unit uses the carbur-
etor-vacuum-actuated diaphragm. It also
has a vacuum-retard diaphragm in tandem
to retard the distributor when there is
high manifold vacuum-at idle and during
deceleration when the throttle is closed .
Other than the diaphragm, the two dis-
tributors are mechanically the same even
though they have different advance/
retard curves. All solid-state distributors
use the dual diaphragm exclusively. Those
in 1977 models and later years are equip-
ped with a larger diameter distributor cap
with an adapter between the distributor
housing and the cap . These also use a
unique rotor, and wiring harness leads
with spark plug-type connectors at both
ends.
Does It Need Rebuilding?-As with your
engine , you must first determine if your
distributor needs rebuilding. Remove the
cap and rotor, then wiggle the upper end
of the shaft back and forth-or at least
try to. If it. moves a noticeable amount,
something is worn too much. It could be
the ID of the cam or sleeve, or the upper
shaft bushing. To isolate the two, remove
the cam from the end of the shaft using
the procedure on page 125, then try
wiggling the shaft. If it still moves you
know it's the bushing. If it doesn't, then
it's the cam or sleeve 10. The problem
could be a worn shaft, but it'll probably
be the bushing or the cam or sleeve. To
make sure it's not the shaft, mike its
upper portion that runs in the bushing
and compare this figure to what you get
when miking an unworn section of the
shaft. To do this you'll have to remove
the shaft, so refer to the teardown section
later in this chapter. First I'll describe a
more accurate way of determining if your
distribu tor needs rebuilding.
Let Performance Be the Judge-Let your
distribu tor's performance be the deter-
mining factor as to whether it needs atten-
tion or not . To do this, take it to a shop
which has a distribu tor test set. Check for
proper centrifugal advance and vacuum
advance/retard-applies to both types of
distribu tors-and dwell variation for the
breaker-point type. Chances are your
centrifugal-advance mechanism will check
out OK. If it doesn't, a minor adjustment
should correct the problem. Possibly the
weight pivots need to be cleaned and
MOVEABLE
BREAKER PLATE
BREAKER POINT
CALIBRATING WASHERS
VACUUM CONNECTION
SPRING WASHER
FLAT WASHER
GROUND WlRE
PRIMARY WlRE
b u ~ ~ ~ p ~ e t e ul st r l uut ur usaurrru~y srruwlrlg E ~ I I ~ ~ I I U Y ~ I - drl u V ~ C U U ~ ~ I - ~ ~ V L ~ ~ I F U v u mp o n a n u . b u n r r l ~ u y d ~ w e l y ~ ~ t s are ~ I I W pr u- ISUP s t y ~ u WIIILII upwracw c r l u LOIII
with pins protruding from each weight into slots in the cam plate. Photo courtesy Ford.
Checking a di stri but~, ~ n e right way-on a d,~.,,outor tes. Some small parts used in most distributor assemblies. Be careful when
Centrifugal advance is being adjusted by bending the advance-stop pin. disassembling yours so you don't lose any of them. Hours can be spent
finding a replacement.
lubricated if they are the bushingless type. worn. You may be able to straighten the and points are farthest from each other,
As for the vacuum advancelretard mech- plate, but worn buttons mean breaker-
the points stay closed longer, thus in-
anism, you have more of a chance of plate replacement-you can't buy the creasing the dwell. The reverse is true
encountering trouble. This usually occurs buttons. when they come closer together. The likely
in the form of a leaky vacuum diaphragm, You also need to determine the con- cause of this is a worn upper bushing, or
meaning it will have t o be replaced. With dition of your distributor's upper bushing possibly excess wear between the cam
a breaker-point distributor, another possi- and the breaker-plate pivot. This is done and the distributor shaft. More thanlikely
bility is the movable breaker-plate may be by monitoring the dwell on the test set. it's the bushing. Breaker-plate pivot wear
hanging up. This will either be caused by If the dwell varies, the cam is moving in can also cause dwell variations. The pivot
a bent breaker-plate, or the three nylon relation to the points, or the points are is a brass bushing pressed into the move-
buttons on which the plate slides are moving relative t o the cam. When the cam able breaker plate which pivots on a pin
STATIONARY
SUB-PLATE
WEIGHT

BUSHING'-.......

MOVEABLE
CLAMP
BREAKER PLATE
BREAKER POINT \ t\ ASSEMBL Y __

CONDENSER ' .. WEIGHT
" THRUST WASHER
CAM
SPRING WASHER
FLAT WASHER
)'" RETAINER
GROUND WIRE
PRIMARY WIRE
O-RING SEAL
cr OILER 0-DRIVE GEAR
PIN
.. RETURN SPRING
,
STOP 0 J
DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBlY JI' 0
CALIBRATING WASHERS /
VACUUM CONNECTION
Complete distributor assembly showing centrifugal and vacuum-advance components. Centrifugal weights are the pre1965 style which operate the cam
with pins protruding from each weight into slots in the cam plate. Photo courtesy Ford.
c
Checking a distributor out the right way-on a distributor test stand.
Centrifugal advance is being adjusted by bending the advance'stop pin.
Some small parts used in most distributor assemblies. Be careful when
disassembling yours so you don't lose any of them. Hours can be spent
finding a replacement.
lubricated if they are the bushingless type.
As for the vacuum advance/retard mech
anism, you have more of a chance of
encountering trouble. This usually occurs
in the form of a leaky vacuum diaphragm,
meaning it will have to be replaced. With
a breaker-point distributor, another possi-
bility is the movable breaker-plate may be
hanging up. This will either be caused by
a bent breaker-plate, or the three nylon
buttons on which the plate slides are
worn . You may be able to straigh ten the
plate, but worn buttons mean breaker-
plate replacement-you can't buy the
buttons.
You also need to determine the con-
dition of your distributor's upper bushing
and the breaker-plate pivot. This is done
by monitoring the dwell on the test set.
If the dwell varies, the cam is moving in
relation to the points, or the points are
moving relative to the cam. When the cam
and points are farthest from each other,
the points stay closed longer , thus in-
creasing the dwell. The reverse is true
when they come closer together . The likely
cause of this is a worn upper bushing, or
possibly excess wear between the cam
and the distributor shaft. More than likely
it's the bushing. Breaker-plate pivot wear
can also cause dwell variations. The pivot
is a brass bushing pressed in to the move-
able breaker plate which pivots on a pin
123
attached to the base plate. Instead of the
cam moving in this instance, the points
move in relation to the cam, but the
effect is the same. So, if the breaker-
plate pivot is worn so there are dwell
variations, the breaker-plate assembly
should be replaced. The bushing is not
serviced separately.
REBUILDING YOUR DISTRIBUTOR
Before you begin tearing down your
distributor t o rebuild it, make sure your
Ford dealer has the bushingls in stock.
He'll prefer selling you a new or rebuilt
distributor rather than the bushingls so
you can rebuild your own distributor.
Buy upper bushing B8QH-12120-A and, if
you need it, the lower one C5AZ-12 132-A
before you pull your distributor apart. If
you encounter problems with obtaining
these, you may have to reconsider and
start shopping around for a replacement
distributor. Assuming you can come up
with all the parts you need for the rebuild,
get on with the job.
Disassembling the Breaker-Point Distrib-
utor-After removing the distributor cap
and rotor, remove the breaker points and
condenser. Keep the small parts, nuts,
screws, clips and the like in a small box,
can or paper container so they don't get
lost. It's a pain to find replacements.
Remove the vacuum-diaphragm assembly
after disconnecting its link from the
breaker plate. Use a small screwdriver t o
pry the clip off and keep a finger on the
clip so it doesn't fly away.
The breaker-plate assembly can come
out in one piece, but I've shown it being
removed in pieces. The fixed-plate HP289
distributor can be removed after its two
attaching screws are removed. As for
removing a fixed breaker plate, remove
the C-clip, flat washer and spring washer
from the pivot, then lift the breaker plate
out. This will expose the base plate which
you can now remove. Don't lose the three
Keep a finger on the C-clip when removing it. I f one "flys" off you can jusr aDour rorget tlnalng it.
Li ft the diaphragm link off its post, then slide the diaphragm assembly off the distributor housing.
off the base plate. The base plate can be
removed now by undoing the single
remaining screw.
With the base plate out of the way,
your distributor looks nearly identical t o
a breaker-point type in the same state of
disassembly. The difference is the straight
sleeve which accepts the armature rather
than the cam used for operating a set of
points. The remainder of the teardown is
the same for both types.
Disassembly From the Base Plate Down-
You can remove the main distributor
shaft at this point, but I've shown remov-
ing the centrifugal-advance weight and
springs first. However, before you remove
the springs, weights or cam or sleeve,
mark them so vou'll have a reference for
reinstalling thefn in their original positions.
Remove the priman/ wire in through the dis-
A dab oflight-colored paint on one
tributor housing. Replace i t i f you find the
insulation damaged.
and its two attachment points and one of
the weights and the pin it is fitted to will
do the job. As for the cam or sleeve, it
nylon buttons in the plate, they pop out
easily.
Check the breaker-plate pivot for wear
now by fitting the two plates together
loosely and trying t o slide the breaker
plate sideways. If you can feel any move-
ment, replace the complete assembly.
Disassembling the Breakerless Distributor
-If you have a breakerless distributor,
tear it down similarly. Remove the cap
and rotor. On 1977 and later models
remove the cap adapter.
Remove the armature-the wheel with
eight vanes-by prying it up off the shaft
using two screwdrivers. Don't lose the
roll-pin which keys it t o the shaft. Remove
the vacuum-diaphragm assembly by un-
hooking it from the magnetic pickup and
Remov~ng m e r;-cllp, rlar wasner ano sprang washer from tne meaner-plate posr. I r ~ ~ s rrees rrle we a n
unbolting it from the housing. Now re-
er plate so it can be lifted off.
move the magnetic-pickup assembly. Use
your finger nail to remove the light wire
retainer, then lift the pickup assembly
attached to the base plate. Instead of the
cam moving in this instance, the points
move in relation to the cam, but the
effect is the same. So, if the breaker-
plate pivot is worn so there are dwell
variations, the breaker-plate assembly
should be replaced. The bushing is not
serviced separately.
REBUILDING YOUR DISTRIBUTOR
Before you begin tearing down your
distributor to rebuild it, make sure your
Ford dealer has the bushing/s in stock.
He'll prefer selling you a new or rebuilt
distributor rather than the bushing/s so
you can rebuild your own distributor.
Buy upper bushing B8QH-12120-A and, if
you need it, the lower one C5 AZ-1213 2-A
before you pull your distributor apart. If
you encounter problems with obtaining
these, you may have to reconsider and
start shopping around for a replacement
distributor. Assuming you can come up
with all the parts you need for the rebuild,
get on with the job.
Disassembling the Breaker-Point Distrib-
utor-After removing the distributor cap
and rotor, remove the breaker points and
condenser. Keep the small parts, nuts,
screws, clips and the like in a small box,
can or paper container so they don't get
lost. It's a pain to find replacemen ts.
Remove the vacuum-diaphragm assembly
after disconnecting its link from the
breaker plate. Use a small screwdriver to
pry the clip off and keep a finger on the
clip so it doesn't flyaway.
The breaker-plate assembly can come
out in one piece, but I've shown it being
removed in pieces. The fixed-plate HP289
distributor can be removed after its two
attaching screws are removed . As for
removing a fixed breaker plate, remove
the C-clip, flat washer and spring washer
from the pivot, then lift the breaker plate
out. This will expose the base plate which
you can now remove. Don't lose the three
nylon buttons in the plate, they pop out
easily.
Check the breaker-plate pivot for wear
now by fitting the two plates together
loosely and trying to slide the breaker
plate sideways. If you can feel any move-
ment, replace the complete assembly.
Disassembling the Breakerless Distributor
-If you have a breakerless distributor ,
tear it down similarly . Remove the cap
and rotor. On 1977 and later models
remove the cap adapter.
Remove the armature-the wheel with
eight vanes-by prying it up off the shaft
using two screwdrivers. Don't lose the
roll-pin which keys it to the shaft. Remove
the vacuum-diaphragm assembly by un-
hooking it from the magnetic pickup and
unbolting it from the housing. Now re-
move the magnetic-pickup assembly. Use
your finger nail to remove the light wire
retainer , then lift the pickup assembly
124
Keep a finger on the C-clip when removing it. If one "flys" off you can just about forget finding it.
Lift the diaphragm link off its post, then slide the diaphragm assembly off the distributor housing.
off the base plate. The base plate can be
removed now by undoing the single
remaining screw.
With the base plate out of the way,
your distributor looks nearly identical to
a breaker-point type in the same state of
disassembly. The difference is the straight
sleeve which accepts the armature rather
than the cam used for operating a set of
points. The remainder of the teardown is
the same for both types.
Disassembly From the Base Plate Down-
You can remove the main distributor
shaft at this point , bu t I've shown remov-
ing the centrifugal-advance weight and
springs first. However, before you remove
the springs, weights or cam or sleeve,
mark them so you' ll have a reference for
reinstalling them in their original positions.
A dab of Iigh t-colored paint on one spring
and its two attachment points and one of
the weights and the pin it is fitted to will
do the job. As for the cam or sleeve, it
Remove the primary wire in through the dis-
tributor housing. Replace it if you find the
insulation damaged.
Removing the C-clip, flat washer and spring washer from the breaker-plate post. Th is frees the break-
er plate so it can be lifted off.
Base-place screw also retains breaker-pl ate ground wi re. Don' t lose t he nyl on wear but t ons whi ch Pryi ng t he armature o f f a solid-state di st ri but or
pl ug i nt o t he base plate. I f y ou d o or if t hey are wor n badly, you' l l have t o replace your di st ri but or shaft. T wo screwdrivers and some l i ght pressure
or f i nd one y ou can r ob parts f r om. shoul d d o it.
has two different-length notches at the
edge of its plate for controlling maximum
centrifugal advance. The notch with the
correct advance is located over the tab
Magneti c-pi ckup retai ni ng cl i p is best removed
wi t h your fingernail. Remove vacuum-advance
diaphragm and l i f t out t he pi ckup.
'
which is fitted with a Hypalon@ slee";.
Put dab of paint at the edge of this slot.
Now, all you have t o do is be careful not
t o remove the paint while you're cleaning
the parts.
1965 and Later Cam, Spring and Weight
Removal-When unhooking the centrifu-
gal-advance return spring, stretch it only
far enough to lift if off the pin. The cam
or sleeve can be removed after you have
the springs off. Remove the retainer from
the center of the cam or sleeve. Lift the
lubricating wick out. Use small needle-nose
pliers to lift one end of the spring out of
its groove and a screwdriver t o keep it
from slipping back in while you lift the
other end out. After removing the retainer,
lift the cam or sleeve off the shaft. Don't
lose the thrust washer directly under it.
Now for the weights. If retained with
C-clips, pop them off and remove the
weights. If plastic clips are used, don't
attempt to remove them: They look like
flat washers with a fluted ID, or fingers,
on their their inside diameter. Ford dealers
don't stock them, so if you remove them
they'll break and you won't be able to
replace them. If this sounds like bad news
to you, it shouldn't. Centrifugal-weight-
pivot wear is not a problem. When they
LUBRI CATI NG WI C
\ CAM
HYPALON SLEE
1 Dl STRl BUTO
Earl y and l ate centrifugal-advance mechanisms. Weights, springs and sl ots are used i n bot h instances t o determi ne t he rate and amount of advance. Late-
st yl e mechanism at r i ght i s used f or bot h breaker-poi nt and solid-state di stri butors. Drawi ngs courtesy Ford.
Base-place screw also retains breaker-plate ground wire_ Don't lose the nylon wear buttons which
plug into the base plate_ If you do or if they are worn badly, you'll have to replace your distributor
or find one you can rob parts from_
Magnetic-pickup retaining clip is best removed
with your fingernail. Remove vacuum-advance
diaphragm and lift out the pickup_ .
has two different-length notches at the
edge of its plate for controlling maximum
centrifugal advance. The notch with the
correct advance is located over the tab
which is fitted with a Hypalon sleeve.
Put dab of paint at the edge of this slot.
Now, all you have to do is be careful not
to remove the paint while you're cleaning
the parts.
1965 and Later Cam, Spring and Weight
Removal-When unhooking the centrifu-
gal-advance return spring, stretch it only
far enough to lift if off the pin. The cam
or sleeve can be removed after you have
the springs off. Remove the retainer from
the center of the cam or sleeve. Lift the
lubricating wick out. Use small needle-nose
Prying the armature off a solid-state distributor
shaft. Two screwdrivers and some light pressure
should do it.
pliers to lift one end of the spring out of
its groove and a screwdriver to keep it
from slipping back in while you li ft the
other end ou t. After removing the retainer,
lift the cam or sleeve off the shaft. Don't
lose the thrust washer directly under it.
Now for the weights. If retained with
C-clips, pop them off and remove the
weigh ts. If plastic clips are used, don't
attempt to remove them: They look like
flat washers with a fluted ID, or fingers,
on their their inside diameter. Ford dealers
don't stock them, so if you remove them
they' ll break and you won ' t be able to
replace them. If this sounds like bad news
to you, it shouldn't. Centrifugal-weight-
pivot wear is not a problem. When they
Early and late centrifugal-advance mechanisms. Weights, springs and slots are used in both instances to determine the rate and amount of advance. Late-
style mechanism at right is used for both breaker-point and solid-state distributors. Drawings courtesy Ford.
125
do wear the effect is minimal anyway.
Therefore, just make sure the weights
pivot freely.
Pre-1965 Cam, Spring and Weight
Removal-The centrifugal weights in pre-
1965 distributors are under the cam plate,
and the springs are attached t o the shaft
plate and the cam. The cam is advanced
by a pin on each weight which extends up
through a slot in the cam plate. The cam
must be removed before the springs or
weights.
The same method is used for removing
the cam as used in the late distributors.
This will expose the springs and weights.
Don't concern yourself with marking
them, just keep them together. Lift each
weight off its pivot and rotate the spring
t o unhook it from its mounting tab.
Mark springs and weights so they can be rein-
stalled i n their original positions before remov-
ing them. Don't overlook marking what they
were mounted to.
Be careful when removing the centrifugal-
advance return springs that you don't stretch
them permanently. A pair of bent needle-nose
pliers is handy here.
6rea~er-polnt cams ana armature sleeves are removed the same way. I he retainer clip has t o coi e out.tirst. uoing this requires needle-nose pliers. W~t h
the clip out of the way, the cam assembly or sleeve should l i f t off easily, however it may need a little coaxing i f the shaft is varnished up. Remove the
thrust washer, too.
Distributor-Shaft Removal-We're to the
state of disassembly where all distributors
are essentially the same. To remove your
distributor shaft you'll have to remove
the gear and collar first. Back up the gear
hub-not the teeth-with the jaws of a
vise or something that will clear the roll
pin as it is being driven out. Use an 118-in.
diameter pin punch or a drift punch that's
no larger than 118 in., 314 in. from its end.
Remove the pin from the collar also.
Press or Drive the Gear and Collar Off-If
you don't have a press of some descrip-
tion to remove the distributor gear from
its shaft, you'll have to use some less-
sophisticated means t o drive the gear off.
Regardless of which method you use
you'll have t o back up the gear with
something fairly substantial. Two parallel
steel plates will do if you have a press, or
some slightly opened vise jaws will suffice.
Suspend the distributor upside-down by
supporting it squarely on the backside of
I f the weights i n your distributor are retained
with this type of clip don't attempt removing
them. You'll break them and they aren't
serviced-this means you can't buy them.
Removing weights and springs together i n a pre-
1965 distributor. Li f t weight off its pivot and
rotate spring t o unhook it. Weights and springs
don't have t o be marked i f you do i t this way.
Mark springs and weights so they can be rein-
stalled in their original positions before remov-
ing them. Don't overlook marking what they
were mounted to.
Be careful when removing the centrifugal-
advance return springs that you don't stretch
them permanently. A pair of bent needle-nose
pliers is handy here.
do wear the effect is minimal anyway.
Therefore, just make sure the weights
pivot freely.
Pre-1965 Cam, Spring and Weight
Removal-The centrifugal weights in pre-
1965 distributors are under the cam plate,
and the springs are attached to the shaft
plate and the cam. The cam is advanced
by a pin on each weight which extends up
through a slot in the cam plate. The cam
must be removed before the springs or
weights.
The same method is used for removing
the cam as used in the late distributors.
This will expose the springs and weights.
Don't concern yourself with marking
them, just keep them together. Lift each
weight off its pivot and rotate the spring
to unhook it from its mounting tab.
Breaker-point cams and armature sleeves are removed the same way. The retainer clip has to com'e out first. Doing this requires needle-nose pliers. With
the clip out of the way, the cam assembly or sleeve should lift off easily, however it may need a little coaxing if the shaft is varnished up. Remove the
thrust washer, too.
If the weights in your distributor are retained
with this type of clip don't attempt removing
them. You'll break them and they aren't
serviced-this means you can't buy them.
126
Removing weights and springs together in a pre-
1965 distributor. Lift weight off its pivot and
rotate spring to unhook it. Weights and springs
don't have to be marked if you do it this way.
Distributor-8haft Removal-We're to the
state of disassembly where all distributors
are essentially the same. To remove your
distributor shaft you'll have to remove
the gear and collar first. Back up the gear
hub-not the teeth-with the jaws of a
vise or something that will clear the roll
pin as it is being driven ou t. Use an 1 18-in.
diameter pin punch or a drift punch that's
no larger than 1/8 in., 3/4 in. from its end.
Remove the pin from the collar also.
Press or Drive the Gear and Collar Off-If
you don't have a press of some descrip-
tion to remove the distributor gear from
its shaft, you'll have to use some less-
sophisticated means to drive the gear off.
Regardless of which method you use
you'll have to back up the gear with
something fairly substantial . Two parallel
steel plates will do if you have a press, or
some slightly opened vise jaws will suffice.
Suspend the distributor upside-down by
supporting it squarely on the backside of
Support the housing on its base and over
a hole or slot so the bushing will clear as
it is being driven out.
To remove the top bushing the housing
will have to be inverted and supported as
shown in the sketch. It's advisable to
remove this bushing with a press because
of the additional force required, and the
,
. - . - . potential for housing damage. Regardless
of how you remove it, press or hammer,
. .. . you need a punch that's large enough to
I I . ,
T
catch the bottom of the bushing, but no
larger than 112-in. diameter, and long
enough to reach down in the housing.
Again, if you drive the bushing out, be
careful !
Clean-Up and Inspection-Now that your
distributor is disassembled, clean all the
parts and inspect them closely. An old
brush and a bucket, or can of cleaning
solvent or lacquer thinner is perfect for
doing this job. Be careful not t o remove
your locating marks on the cam, springs
and centrifugal weights.
The shaft should look pretty good, but
t o give it a new look, polish it with some
400-grit emery cloth. Mike the worn and
unworn diameters of the shaft and com-
Support the gear and collar as I'm doing with this vise. I'm using an 118-in. pin punch to drive the
pare the results. If it's worn more than
roll pins out.
0.001 in., replace it. As for the cam, feel
the peak of the lobes across their width.
If you feel any distinguishable ridge from
the breaker-point rub block the cam
the gear teeth. Don't press or drive directly
on the end of the shaft. Use a short section
of your old oil-pump drive shaft inserted
in the end of the shaft. As the shaft end
nears the gear be ready t o catch the dis-
tributor housing.
Remove the Bushingls-If your distributor
has the short lower bushing, you need a
3-112-in. long, 318-in. diameter punch t o
knock it out the bottom of the housing.
Use a short section of your old oil-pump drive shaft as a punch for removing the gear and collar from
the distributor shaft. Make sure you support the backside of the gear like this and drive the shaft
down through it. The collar isn't on as tight, so the housing can be used t o back i t up.
Support the gear and collar as I'm doing with this vise. I'm using an 1!Bin. pin punch to drive the
roll pins out.
the gear teeth . Don't press or drive directly
on the end of the shaft. Use a short section
of your old oil-pump drive shaft inserted
in the end of the shaft. As the shaft end
nears the gear be ready to catch the dis-
tributor housing.
Remove the Bushing/s-Ifyour distributor
has the short lower bushing, you need a
3-1 / 2-in. long, 3/8-in. diameter punch to
knock it out the bottom of the housing.
Use a short section of your old oilpump drive shaft as a punch for removing the gear and collar from
the distributor shaft. Make sure you support the backside of the gear like this and drive the shaft
down through it . The collar isn't on as tight, so the housing can be used to back it up.
Support the housing on its base and over
a hole or slot so the bushing will clear as
it is being driven out.
To remove the top bushing the housing
will have to be inverted and supported as
shown in the sketch. It's advisable to
remove this bushing with a press because
of the additional force required, and the
potential for housing damage. Regardless
of how you remove it, press or hammer,
you need a punch that's large enough to
catch the bottom of the bushing, but no
larger than 1/2-in. diameter, and long
enough to reach down in the housing.
Again, if you drive the bushing out, be
careful!
Clean-Up and Inspection-Now that your
distributor is disassembled , clean all the
parts and inspect them closely. An old
brush and a bucket, or can of cleaning
solvent or lacquer thinner is perfect for
doing this job. Be careful not to remove
your locating marks on the cam, springs
and centrifugal weights.
The shaft should look pretty good, but
to give it a new look, polish it with some
400-grit emery cloth. Mike the worn and
unworn diameters of the shaft and com-
pare the results . If it 's worn more than
0.001 in ., replace it. As for the cam, feel
the peak of the lobes across their width .
If you feel any distinguishable ridge from
the breaker-point rub block the cam
127
A long skinny punch being used to remove the
bottom distributor-shaft bushing. Support the
housing base and leave room for the bushing as
i t is driven out.
should be replaced. Otherwise, it's OK.
Check the moveable breaker plate pivot
and bushing if you haven't done so al-
ready. Loosely assemble the fixed and
moveable plates and try to wiggle them.
There shouldn't be any movement.
REASSEMBLING THE PIECES
After cleaning, inspecting and ob-
taining any parts you need for reassem-
bling your distributor it's time to retrace
your steps. Basically all that has to be
done is to reverse the process, but with
considerably more care.
Install the Shaft Bushingls-Begin dis-
tributor assembly by installing the
bushingls in the housing. Install the
bottom one first-Ford CSAZ-12132-A-
by standing the housing upside-down and
driving or pressing the bushing squarely
in its bore using a 5184x1. diameter punch.
When the bushing feels solid as you're
driving it in, it should be at the bottom of
its counterbore and flush with the bot-
tom of the housing.
Turn the housing over to install the
top bushing-Ford B8HQ-1212-A. Lubri-
cate the bushing and center it over its
bore. Use a punch between the press
ram or your hammer, and drive the
bushing in straight until it stops at the
bottom of its counterbore.
Burnish the Bushings-To make the
bushing IDS as smooth as possible, they
should be burnished. This is normally
done with a burnishing tool, however
these are not commonly obtainable, so
Using a press and a punch t o remove the top
bushing. A 314-in. deep socket supports the
housing during this operation.
use a 15132-in. diameter ream. With the
ream well oiled, turn it backwards in
the buslungs-opposite from the direc-
tion you turn it for reaming. This will
smooth out any burrs or irregularities in
the bushing bore/s.
Install the Shaft-Oil the distributor
shaft and slide it into place. It should
rotate freely. Secure it by sliding the
collar-flanged end first-on the shaft and
lining up the roll-pin hole with the one in
the shaft. It's drilled off-center, so you
may have to rotate the collar to get it
t o line up. If you are installing a new
shaft you'll have to drill a 118411. roll-
pin hole. To set the correct end-play,
drill a new hole through the collar and
the shaft 90" t o the original hole while
a 0.024-in. feeler gauge is inserted be-
tween the collar and the housing, and the
shaft is pulled down firmly in the hous-
ing. This will set the end-play. Drive the
roll pin into place after you've lined up
the holes.
Locate the bottom bushing squarely over its bore
housing.
, then drive i t in flush with the bottom of the
A long skinny punch being used to remove the
bottom distributorshaft bushing. Support the
housing base and leave room for the bushing as
it is driven out .
should be replaced . Otherwise, it 's OK.
Check the moveable breaker plate pivot
and bushing if you haven ' t done so al-
ready. Loosely assemble the fixed and
moveable plates and try to wiggle them.
There shouldn 't be any movemen t.
REASSEMBLING THE PIECES
After cleaning, inspecting and ob-
taining any parts you need for reassem-
bling your distributor it's time to retrace
your steps. Basically all that has to be
done is to reverse the process, but with
considerably more care.
Install the Shaft Bushing/s-Begin dis-
tribut or assembly by installing the
bushing/s in the housing. Install the
bottom one first-Ford CSAZ-12132A-
by standing the housi ng upside-down and
driving or pressing the bushing squarely
in its bore usi ng a S/8in. diameter punch.
When the bushing feels solid as you're
driving it in , it should be at the bottom of
its counterbore and flush with the bot-
tom of the housing.
Turn the housing over to install the
top bushing-Ford B8HQ1212A. Lubri-
cate the bushing and center it over its
bore . Use a punch between the press
ram or your hammer , and drive the
bushing in straight until it stops at the
bottom of its counterbore.
Burnish the Bushings-To make the
bushing IDs as smooth as possible, they
should be burnished. This is normally
done with a bumishing tool , however
these are not commonly obtainable, so
128
RAM
Using a press and a punch to remove the top
bushing. A 3/4i n. deep socket supports the
housing during this operation.
use a lS/32-in . diameter ream. With the
ream well oiled, turn it backwards in
the bushings-opposite from the direc-
tion you turn it for reaming. This will
smooth out any burrs or irregularities in
the bushing bore/so
Install the Shaft-Oil the distributor
shaft and slide it into place. It should
rotate freely. Secure it by sliding the
collar- flanged end first-on the shaft and
lining up the roll-pin hole with the one in
the shaft. It's drilled off-center , so you
may have to rotate the collar to get it
to line up. If you are installing a new
shaft you'll have to drill a 1/8-in . roll
pin hole . To se t the correct endplay,
drill a new hole through the collar and
the shaft 90 to the original hole while
a 0.024-in. feeler gauge is inserted be-
tween the collar and the housing, and the
shaft is pulled down firmly in the hous-
ing. This will set the end-play. Drive the
roll pin into place afte r you've lined up
the holes.
Locate the bottom bushing squarely over its bore, then drive it in flush with the bottom of the
housing.
A press should be used for installing the top 400-grit polishing cloth removes varnish buildup and re. .-.-.. ..le shaft well
bushing. Oil the bushing OD and press i t squarely before installing it.
into i ts bore until i t bottoms in the counter-
bore. Use a punch under the ram of the press.
Pin holes in the sriarr, collar and gear are drilled off-cenrer. ~onsequently, it is easier to line the holes up before sliding either the collar or the gear on the
shaft. Once lined up, the pin can be installed while supporting the collar's backside. End-play should be no more than 0.035 in.
A press should be used for installing the top
bushing. Oil the bushing 00 and press it squarely
into its bore until it bottoms in the counter-
bore. Use a punch under the ram of the press.
400grit polishing cloth removes varnish buildup and restores the shaft's polish. Oil the shaft well
before installing it.
\
Pin holes in the shaft, collar and gear are drilled offcenter. Consequently, it is easier to line the holes up before sliding either the collar or the gear on the
shaft. Once lined up, the pin can be installed while supporting the collar's backside. End-play should be no more than 0.035 in.
129
Support the backside of the gear when installing its roll pin. Prick marks (arrows) on the gear hub
and shaft help line up the holes as you're pressing the gear on.
Early-style centrifugal weights and springs being installed. Lubricate both pivots, hook free end of
each spring over its tab and fit the weight into place. Lubricate the shaft and install the cam. Pins
projecting out of the weights fi t in the cam-plate slots.
Install the drive gear next. Start the
hub end on first after lining up the roll-
pin holes. It has t o be lined up first
because the gear will be too difficult t o
turn once it's on the shaft. Just as with
the hub, if you've installed a new shaft
you'll have to drill a new roll-pin hole.
Do this after you've located the gear
4-1132-in. below the bottom of the hous-
ing mounting flange-it's just above the
O-ring groove-to the bottom of the
gear. Install the roll pin and you're
finished with the bottom end of your
distributor.
Assemble the Centrifugal-Advance Mech-
anism-Gather up all your centrifugal-
advance pieces in preparation for re-
assembling them. Have some moly
grease on hand too. Start by spreading a
light jilm of grease on the weight pivots,
then install the weights using your marks
to determine their locations. Secure the
weights with Cclips.
Lubricate the upper end of the shaft
by filling the grooves with moly grease,
then slide the thrust washer into place
over the shaft. Lubricate the bottom of
the cam or sleeve and install i t so the
With the centrifugal weights installed on their
pivots retain them with the Ctl i ps. A finger
on the clip is a precaution which helps keep
from losing this elusive part.
advance-limiting tab projects up through
the correct slot at the edge of the cam or
sleeve plate. Use your marks as reference.
Check t o make sure the ~ ~ ~ a l o n @s l e e v e
is in place on the tab.
Again using your marks, install the
advance-return springs between their
shaft and cam or sleeve mountings. At-
tach them at the shaft plate first, then to
the cam or shaft pin while being careful
not to stretch the springs.
Complete the assembly of the cam or
sleeve and centrifugal-advance mecha-
nism by installing the retaining clip on
the end of the shaft. Feed it in between
the cam or sleeve and the shaft using your
small needle-nose pliers, then push it
into place using two small screwdrivers.
As for earlier distributors, assemble
them using the same procedure, except
install the cam and its retaining clip
after you have its centrifugal weights and
return springs in place and secured.
Breaker-Point Distributor Assembly -Base
Plate Up-Assemble the moveable breaker
plate t o the base plate after lubricating
the pivot with moly grease and making
sure the three nylon wear buttons are in
place. Install the spring washer so its
curved section is against the top side of
the bushing and the outside edge bears
against the underside of the flat washer.
Secure the plate, spring washer and flat
washer with the Cclip.
Install the breaker-plate assembly,
moveable or fixed, into the distributor
housing. Rotate it until it lines up with
the mounting holes in the housing, and
secure it using the two mounting screws.
The one closest to the primary-wire hole
also attaches the breaker-plate ground
cable.
Finish assembling the top end of the
distributor by installing the primary
wire, new breaker points and condensor.
Set the points once they are installed by
Support the backside of the gear when installing its roll pin. Prick marks (arrows) on the gear hub
and shaft help line up the holes as you're pressing the gear on.
Early-style centrifugal weights and springs being installed. Lubricate both pivots, hook free end of
each spring over its tab and fit the weight into place. Lubricate the shaft and install the cam. Pins
projecting out of the weights fit in the cam-plate slots.
Install the drive gear next. Start the
hub end on first after lining up the roll-
pin holes . It has to be lined up first
because the gear will be too difficult to
turn once it's on the shaft. Just as with
the hub, if you've installed a new shaft
you 'll have to drill a new roll-pin hole.
Do this after you 've located the gear
4-1/32-in. below the bottom of the hous-
ing mounting flange-it's just above the
a-ring groove - to the bottom of the
gear. Install the roll pin and you're
finished with the bottom end of your
distribu tor.
130
Assemble the Centrifugal-Advance Mech-
anism-Gather up all your centrifugal-
advance pieces in preparation for re-
assembling them. Have some moly
grease on hand too. Start by spreading a
light film of grease on the weight pivots,
then install the weights using your marks
to determine their locations. Secure the
weights with C-clips.
Lubricate the upper end of the shaft
by filling the grooves wi th moly grease,
then slide the thrust washer into place
over the shaft. Lubricate the bottom of
the cam or sleeve and install it so the
With the centrifugal weights installed on their
pivots retain them with the C-clips. A finger
on the clip is a precaution which helps keep
from losing this elusive part.
advance-limiting tab projects up through
the correct slot at the edge of the cam or
sleeve plate. Use your marks as reference.
Check to make sure the Hypalon sleeve
is in place on the tab.
Again using your marks , install the
advance-return springs between their
shaft and cam or sleeve mountings . At-
tach them at the shaft plate first, then to
the cam or shaft pin while being careful
not to stretch the springs .
Complete the assembly of the cam or
sleeve and centrifugal-advance mecha-
nism by installing the retaining clip on
the end of the shaft. Feed it in between
the cam or sleeve and the shaft using your
small needle-nose pliers, then push it
into place using two small screwdrivers.
As for earlier distributors, assemble
them using the same procedure, except
install the cam and its retaining clip
after you have its centrifugal weights and
return springs in place and secured.
Breaker-Point Distributor Assembly-Base
Plate Up-Assemble the moveable breaker
plate to the base plate after lubricating
the pivot with moly grease and making
sure the three nylon wear buttons are in
place. Install the spring washer so its
curved section is against the top side of
the bushing and the outside edge bears
against the underside of the flat washer.
Secure the pIa te, spring washer and flat
washer with the C-clip.
Install the breaker-plate assembly,
moveable or fixed , into the distributor
housing. Rotate it until it lines up with
the mounting holes in the housing, and
secure it using the two mounting screws.
The one closest to the primary-wire hole
also attaches the breaker-plate ground
cable.
Finish assembling the top end of the
distributor by installing the primary
wire, new breaker points and condensor.
Set the points once they are installed by
Instal l i ng l ate-styl e cam. Shaf t gets l ubri cat ed and t hr ust washer goes o n fi rst. A l i t t l e grease on t he cam base and it can be f i t t ed between t he weights.
Make sure t he r i ght centri fugal -advance-l i mi ti ng sl ot is around t he tab. Hook t he springs t o their anchors, shaf t end f i rst f ol l owed by t he cam end.
Cam or sleeve-retaining cl i p is easier t o i nstal l t han it was t o remove. Place ~t over t he end o t t he Don' t t orget t he Hypal onw advance-l i mi ti ng
shaft and push it i nt o place using t wo smal l screwdrivers. sleeve. Sl i de it over t he t ab so it l ocks i n place
bel ow t he t ab ears.
Assembling t he moveabl e breaker pl at e t o i t s base plate, f i r st l ubri cat e t he pi vot and make sure t he three nyl on but t ons are i n place. Secure t he breaker
pl at e wi t h t he spri ng washer, f l at washer and C-cl i p. Spri ng washer convex side shoul d be against t he breaker-pl ate bushi ng as shown at ri ght.
Installing late-style cam. Shaft gets lubricated and thrust washer goes on first. A little grease on the cam base and it can be fitted between the weights.
Make sure the right centrifugal-advance-limiting slot is around the tab. Hook the springs to their anchors, shaft end first followed by the cam end.
Cam or sleeve-retaining clip is easier to install than it was to remove. Place it over the end of the
shaft and push it into place using two small screwdrivers.

Don't forget the Hypalon advance-limiting
sleeve. Slide it over the tab so it locks in place
below the tab ears .
Assembling the moveable breaker plate to its base plate, first lubricate the pivot and make sure the three nylon buttons are in place. Secure the breaker
plate with the spring washer, flat washer and C-clip. Spring washer convex side should be against the breaker-plate bushing as shown at right.
131
Secure breaker-plate assembly i n housi ng using t wo screws. Gr ound strap i s i nstal l ed under t he screw
closest t o breaker-plate pi vot as pi ctured. Feed t he pr i mar y wi re t hrough t he housi ng and f i t i t s
mol ded secti on i nt o place. Put vacuum-advance can and l i nk i n place, securing it wi t h t wo screws at
t he housi ng and a Cc l i p at t he plate.
Fi ni sh assembling breaker pl at e b y i nstal l i ng poi nt s and condenser. Li ght l y l ubri cate cam and adjust t he poi nt s wi t h a clean feeler gauge.
rotating the cam so the point's rub block
Don' t f orget t he cam or sleeve l ubri cat i ng wi ck.
Push it down on t op of t he shaf t and saturate
it wi t h l i ght oi l .
is on the top of one of the lobes. Adjust
the earlier style distrubutor's point gap
t o 0.015 in. and the later ones to 0.018
in. The HP289 and Boss 302 dual-point
distributors are set t o 0.020 in. When
setting the points, make sure your feeler
gauge is free of oil or grease. Recheck
point gap once the points are set and
secured to make sure it didn't change
when you tightened the attaching screws.
Finish the job by lightly lubricating the
cam with the grease that accompanied
your new points, then install the rotor
and cap.
~reake-rless Distributor Assembly-Base
Plate Up-Install the base plate using
one screw opposite the vertical slot in the
housing. Lnstall the magnetic-pickup
Secure breakerplate assembly in housing using two screws. Ground strap is installed under the screw
closest to breakerplate pivot as pictured. Feed the primary wire through the housing and fit its
molded section into place. Put vacuumadvance can and link in place, securing it with two screws at
the housing and a C-clip at the plate.
Finish assembling breaker plate by installing points and condenser . Lightly lubricate cam and adjust the points with a clean feeler gauge.
Don't forget the cam or sleeve lubricating wick .
Push it down on top of the shaft and saturate
it with light oi'-
132
rotating the cam so the point 's rub block
is on the top of one of the lobes . Adjust
the earlier style distrubutor's point gap
to 0.015 in . and the later ones to 0.018
in. The HP289 and Boss 302 dual-point
distributors are set to 0.020 in. When
setting the points, make sure your feeler
gauge is free of oil or grease. Recheck
point gap once the points are set and
secured to make sure it didn't change
when you tightened the attaching screws .
Finish the job by lightly lubricating the
cam with the grease that accompanied
your new points, then install the rotor
and cap.
Breakerless Distributor Assembly-Base
Plate Up-Install the base plate using
one screw opposite the vertical slot in the
housing. Install the magnetic-pickup
After installing solid-state distributor's base
plate, lubricate the pickup pivot. Position
pickup assembly on base plate and f i t harness
molded section into housing slot, securing it
with a base-plate screw. Secure pickup t o base
plate with wire clip.
Install rotor and cap t o keep innards clean
while distributor is waiting t o be installed i n
its engine.
assembly after lubricating its pivot, and
retain it with the wire retaining clip.
Slide the wiring harness into its slot in the
housing, then secure it and the base plate
t o the housing with the remaining screw.
Install the vacuum-advance diaphragm by
by securing its link t o the magnetic pickup
with the C-clip and bolting the vacuum
can to the distributor housing with the
two long screws.
With the vanes pointing up, install the
armature on the sleeve. Push it all the
way down on the sleeve, lining up a long-
itudinal groove in the armature and the
shaft. Then install the small roll pin in the
groove. Tap it into place using your
hammer and punch. Install the rotor and
distributor cap and the distributor is ready
t o be installed in the engine.
TESTING AND CALIBRATION
After your distributor and engine are
installed in your car or truck, you'll want
t o make sure they will perform at their
peak-maximum mileage and power with
a minimum amount of pollutants. A dis-
tributor is one of the major factors in
determining an engine's performance, and
t o tune one t o its full potential requires
expensive and sophisticated tuning equip-
ment in the hands of a tuning specialist.
This is the subject of the last chapter.
With the grooves i n armature and shaft lined up and armature vanes pointing up, push armature
down on shaft until i t bottoms. Lock i t to the shaft by installing roll pin i n groove. I'm tapping i t
into place with a hammer and punch.
I nstall rotor and cap to keep innards clean
while distributor is waiting to be installed in
its engine.
After installing solidstate distributor's base
plate, lubricate the pickup pivot. Position
pickup assembly on base plate and fit harness
molded section into housing slot, securing it
with a baseplate screw. Secure pickup to base
plate with wire clip.
With the grooves in armature and shaft lined up and armature vanes pointing up, push armature
down on shaft until it bottoms. Lock it to the shaft by installing roll pin in groove. I'm tapping it
into place with a hammer and punch .
assembly after lubri cating its pivot, and
retain it with the wire retaining clip.
Slide the wiring harness into its slot in the
housing, then secure it and the base plate
to the housing with the remaining screw.
Install the vacuum-advance diaphragm by
by securing its link to the magnetic pickup
with the C.clip and bolting the vacuum
can to the distributor housing with the
two long screws.
With the vanes pointing up, install the
armature on the sleeve. Push it all the
way down on the sleeve, lining up a long-
itudinal groove in the armature and the
shaft. Then install the small roll pin in the
groove . Tap it into place using your
hammer and punch. Install the rotor and
distributor cap and the distributor is ready
to be installed in the engine.
TESTING AND CALIBRATION
After your distribu tor and engine are
installed in your car or truck, you'll want
to make sure they will perform at their
peak-max.imum mileage and power with
a minimum amount of pollutants. A dis-
t ribu tor is one of the major factors in
determining an engine 's performance, and
to tune one to its full potential requires
expensive and sophisticated tuning equip
ment in the hands of a tuning speciq.list.
This is the subject of the last chapter.
133
9
Engine Installation
1968 320-2V equipped with air pump, or Thermactor emissions
system. By-pass valve is located directly above pump and a check
valve is located on each external manifold. Photo courtesy Ford.
You're now ready for the last big oper-
ation, putting your newly rebuilt engine
back where it came from-into the engine
compartment. Consequently, you have
t o get those boxes of bolts, nuts and parts
out from where you've had them safely
stored. You'll also have t o round up the
engine hoist, jack and jack stands.
Before you begin the installation pro-
cess, consider cleaning the engine com-
partment, accessories, related brackets
and hardware so the total job under the
hood will look good. Cleaning the engine
compartment requires a spray-can of en-
gine cleaner, a stiff bristled brush for the
stubborn grease and dirt and a garden
hose. Don't forget t o protect your car's
body paint. Engine cleaner is strong stuff.
You can use the same process t o clean all
the bolt-on parts and accessories, or you
can load them up for a trip t o the local
car wash. The advantage is you leave the
mess there and the hot high-pressure
water makes the job a whole lot easier.
Let's get on with installing your engine.
TRANSMISSION FRONT SEAL
Any leakage into the clutch or con-
verter housing which obviously didn't
come from the engine should be corrected
now. This is usually accomplished by re-
placing the transmission's front seal,
regardless of whether it is an automatic or
standard transmission.
Automatic Transmission-If you have an
automatic transmission, replace the front-
pump seal whether it shows signs of leak-
ing or not. Chances are,it willstart leaking
before you get out of the driveway if you
don't replace it now. To replace the front-
pump seal or an automatic transmission,
you'll have t o remove the converter first.
The converter can be drained before or
after it's removed. This will prevent spill-
ing fluid while reinstalling it. It's best t o
drain it now and make up the difference
later by filling the transmission after you
get everything back together. To drain it
before removal, position one of the drain
plugs at the bottom by rotating the con-
verter. Position a bucket directly under-
neath before removing the plug. After the
fluid has drained, .replace the plug and
remove the converter simply by pulling
on it, but be ready to handle some weight,
it is not light. Now, if you decide not t o
Replacing automatic-transmission front seal
requires removing the torque converter. Slide i t
off the transmission input shaft and drain it.
drain the fluid first, pull the converter
off and tilt it front down so the fluid
doesn't run out. Now that you have the
converter off, drain it by tilting it the
other way over a suitable container.
Removing the converter exposes the
front-pump seal. To remove it, put a
screwdriver behind the seal lip and pry it
out. Go around the seal and pry a little
bit at a time and it will eventually pop
out. Some people remove the seal with a
chisel and hammer, driving against that
little bit which extends beyond the front-
pump bore. I don't recommend this be-
cause of the risk of damaging the stator
support or the seal bore. So pry it out.
Before installing the new seal, clean
the front-pump bore by wiping it clean of
any oil using a paper towel and some lac-
quer thinner. Now, run a small bead of oil-
resistant sealer around the periphery of
the new seal, preferably on the edge that
engages the pump bore first so the sealer
will wipe the full face of the mating sur-
faces as it is installed. This makes a more
effective seal. Just before installing the
seal, wipe some clean oil on the lip of the
seal so it will be prelubed. To install the
seal, place it squarely in the front-pump
bore and tap lightly around it with a
hammer. Be careful it doesn't cock in the
bore. Keep doing this until you feel the
seal bottom firmly all the way around.
Wipe any excess sealer from the outer
edge of the seal and you're ready for the
converter, While you're still in the engine
compartment, clean the inside of the con-
verter housing so it will start out like new.
Make sure the front face of the housing-
the surface that mates with the engine-is
clean and free of any burrs or nicks. This
will ensure a good fit between the engine
and the transmission.
Before installing the converter, check
9 Engine Installation
1968 3202V equipped with air pump, or Thermactor emissions
system. By'pass valve is located directly above pump and a check
valve is located on each external manifold. Photo courtesy Ford.
You're now ready for the last big oper-
ation, putting your newly rebuilt engine
back where it came from-into the engine
compartment. Consequently, you have
to get those boxes of bolts, nuts and parts
out from where you've had them safely
stored. You'll also have to round up the
engine hoist, jack and jack stands.
Before you begin the installation pro-
cess, consider cleaning the engine com-
partment, accessories, related brackets
and hardware so the total job under the
hood will look good. Cleaning the engine
compartment requires a spray-can of en-
gine cleaner, a stiff bristled brush for the
stubborn grease and dirt and a l@rden
hose. Don't forget to protect your car's
body paint. Engine cleaner is strong stuff.
You can use the same process to clean all
the bolt-on parts and accessories, or you
can load them up for a trip to the local
car wash. The advantage is you leave the
mess there and the hot high-pressure
water makes the job a whole lot easier.
Let's get on with installing your engine.
TRANSMISSION FRONT SEAL
Any leakage into the clutch or con-
verter housing which obviously didn't
come from the engine should be corrected
now. This is usually accomplished by re-
placing the transmission's front seal,
regardless of whether it is an automatic or
standard transmission.
Automatic Transmission-If you have an
automatic transmission, replace the front-
pump seal whether it shows signs of leak-
ing or noL Chances are, it will start leaking
before you get out of the driveway if you
don't replace it now. To replace the front
pump seal or an automatic transmission,
you'll have to remove the converter first.
The converter can be drained before or
after it's removed. This will prevent spill-
134
ing fluid while reinstalling it. It's best to
drain it now and make up the difference
later by filling the transmission after you
get everything back together. To drain it
before removal, position one of the drain
plugs at the bottom by rotating the con-
verter. Position a bucket directly under-
neath before removing the plug. After the
fluid has drained,replace the plug and
remove the converter simply by pulling
on it, but be ready to handle some weight,
it is not light. Now, if you decide not to
Replacing automatictransmission front seal
requires removing the torque converter. Slide it
off the transmission input shaft and drain it.
drain the fluid first, pull the converter
off and tilt it front down so the fluid
doesn't run out. Now that you have the
converter off, drain it by tilting it the
other way over a suitable container.
Removing the converter exposes the
front-pump seaL To remove it , put a
screwdriver behind the seal lip and pry it
out. Go around the seal and pry a little
bit at a time and it will eventually pop
out. Some people remove the seal with a
chisel and hammer, driving against that
little bit which extends beyond the front-
pump bore. I don't recommend this be-
cause of the risk of damaging the stator
support or the seal bore. So pry it out.
Before installing the new seal, clean
the front-pump bore by wiping it clean of
any oil using a paper towel and some lac-
quer thinner. Now, run a small bead of oil-
resistant sealer around the periphery of
the new seal, preferably on the edge that
engages the pump bore first so the sealer
will wipe the full face of the mating sur-
faces as it is installed. This makes a more
effective seal . Just before installing the
seal, wipe some clean oil on the lip of the
seal so it will be prelubed. To install the
seal, place it squarely in the front-pump
bore and tap lightly around it with a
hammer. Be careful it doesn't cock in the
bore. Keep doing this until you feel the
seal bottom firmly all the way around.
Wipe any excess sealer from the outer
edge of the seal and you're ready for the
converter .. While you're still in the engine
compartment, clean the inside of the con-
verter housing so it will start out like new.
Make sure the front face of the housing-
the surface that mates with the engine-is
clean and free of any burrs or nicks. This
will ensure a good fit between the engine
and the transmission.
Before installing the converter, check
Crude, but effective way of removing the f r ont transmission seal-an ol d screwdriver and a hammer. Appl y a bead of sealer t o the OD of the new seal and
install it squarely i n i t s bore. A l ong extension and hammer are being used t o tap it i nt o place.
Af t er oi l i ng the converter's oil-seal surface, l i f t it i nt o place. Spin the converter whi l e pushing on i t s center t o engage it wi t h the i nput shaft and the f r ont
pump. Wi t h t he converter ' f ul l y engaged, locate the marked stud di rectl y at the bot t om. Wipe t he housing mount i ng face clean and t he transmission is
ready f or the engine.
the outer surface of the spline, or the sur-
face which turns against the seal that you
just replaced, particularly if the one you
replaced leaked. If it appears t o have any
nicks or burrs or is at all rough, polish it
with some 400-grit paper. If you don't
the seal will quickly be destroyed. If the
surface appears OK, just clean it with a
rag and some lacquer thinner t o remove
any deposits such as varnish.
Now, you're ready to install the con-
verter. Lightly oil the outside of the sur-
face you just cleaned. It's good insurance
for the life of the pump seal even though
you should've already oiled the seal. It
will also reduce the friction on the seal
when you install the converter. Start the
converter on the transmission-input shaft
and rotate it back-and-forth while push-
ing on it until it engages with the trans-
mission. Be careful here because the con-
verter must engage not only the trans-
mission-input shaft, but must also key
into the front pump and the converter-
support. As a result you will definitely
feel two engagements, and maybe all
three. When you are certain the converter
is on all the way, position the marked
converter-to-flex-plate mounting stud di-
rectly at the bottom of the housing in
preparation for installing the engine.
Standard Transmissions-It's rare when a
manual transmission leaks into its bell-
housing, but when it does the culprit is
usually the gasket between the trans-
mission case and the bearing retainer. If
you find your transmission is not leaking,
leave it alone because chances are it will
never leak. On the other hand, if there
Crude, but effective way of removing the front transmission seal-an old screwdriver and a hammer. Apply a bead of sealer to the OD of the new seal and
install it squarely in its bore. A long extension and hammer are being used to tap it into place.
After oiling the converter's oilseal surface, lift it into place. Spin the converter while pushing on its center to engage it with the input shaft and the front
pump. With the converter -fully engaged, locate the marked stud directly at the bottom. Wipe the housing mounting face clean and the transmission is
ready for the engine.
the outer surface of the spline, or the sur-
face which turns against the seal that you
just replaced, particularly if the one you
replaced leaked. If it appears to have any
nicks or burrs or is at all rough, polish it
with some 400-grit paper. If you don't
the seal will quickly be destroyed. If the
surface appears OK, just clean it with a
rag and some lacquer thinner to remove
any deposits such as varnish.
Now, you're ready to install the con-
verter. Lightly oil the outside of the sur-
face you just cleaned. It's good insurance
for the life of the pump seal even though
you should've already oiled the seal . It
will also reduce the friction on the seal
when you install the converter. Start the
converter on the transmission-input shaft
and rotate it back-and-forth while push-
ing on it until it engages with the trans-
mission. Be careful here because the con-
verter must engage not only the trans-
mission-input shaft, but must also key
into the front pump and the converter-
support. As a result you will definitely
feel two engagements, and maybe all
three. When you are certain the converter
is on all the way, posi tion the marked
converter-to-flex-plate mounting stud di-
rectly at the bottom of the housing in
preparation for installing the engine.
Standard Transmissions-It's rare when a
manual transmission leaks into its bell-
housing, but when it does the culprit is
usually the gasket between the trans-
mission case and the bearing retainer. If
you find your transmission is not leaking,
leave it alone because chances are it will
never leak. On the other hand , if there
135
Manual transmission input-shaft seal. Install seal with lip pointing toward transmission. Use a socket Clamp your clutch disc just enough t o compress
the diameter of the seal for driving i t into place. i t for measuring its thickness and no more. I f
your disc measures near 0.280 in. consider i t
worn out and replace it. Photo courtesy Schiefer.
are signs of transmission grease in the bell-
housing or on the clutch, see whether the
grease is coming from the gasket or from
around the input shaft. Grease may be
running out the front of the retainer-the
end that the input shaft comes out. If
your car is equipped with the top loader
4-speed transmission, the input-shaft seal
will be leaking. To replace it, remove the
retainer, support it on a solid surface and
drive the seal out with a long punch and a
hammer by gradually working around the
back of the seal. It will eventually come
out, but don't be impatient by trying t o
remove it in one whack. When installing
12-15 ft. lbs. for side-cover 4-speeds; and Two pressure plates suffering from having been over-heated. One is warped as indicated by the gap
30-36 ft. lbs. for top-cover 3-speeds.
between ruler and pressure-ring surface. Heat checks and chatter marks on other pressure-plate's
surface indicates i t has been extremely hot. I f your pressure plate is suffering from either of these
symptoms, replace it. The same applies t o your flywheel.
ENGINE PREPARATION AND
INSTALLATION
Now turn your attention to the engine
and the components which must bolt to
it prior to installation.
Clutch & Flywheel-If you have a standard
transmission, now's the time to find out
whether or not your clutch or flywheel
needs reconditioning or replacement. This
is, of course, purely academic if the clutch
slipped before. You'll already know some-
thing has t o be replaced. The disc for sure,
and maybe the pressure plate, or even the
flywheel. On the other hand, if it didn't
slip, the way to gauge clutch wear is by
the thickness of your clutch disc. As a
disc wears it naturally gets thinner. If not
corrected in time this eventually results in
pressure-plate and flywheel grooving as
the rivets will contact them directly.
Measure the Clutch Disc-To measure a
clutch disc, you'll have to compress it to
its engaged thickness. When doing this be
careful not t o damage the facings or get
grease or oil on them. Compress the disc
with some sort of clamp. A vise, C-clamp
or ~ i s e - ~ r i ~ @ pliers will do. Just clamp
the disc enough so the wave spring (mar-
cel) is flat. Measure the disc thickness as
close as possible to the clamp t o get an
accurate reading. New disc thickness is
about 0.330 in. which allows for 0.050in.
of wear, leaving a worn-out disc at 0.280-
in. thick. At 0.280 in., the rivet heads are
Manual transmission input-shaft seal. Install seal with lip pointing toward transmission. Use a socket
the diameter of the seal for driving it into place.
Clamp your clutch disc just enough to compress
it for measuring its thickness and no more. If
your disc measures near 0.280 in. consider it
worn out and replace it. Photo courtesy Schiefer.
are signs of transmission grease in the bell-
housing or on the clutch, see whether the
grease is coming from the gasket or from
around the input shaft. Grease may be
running out the front of the retainer-the
end that the input shaft comes out. If
your car is equipped with the top loader
4-speed transmission, the input-shaft seal
will be leaking. To replace it, remove the
retainer, support it on a solid surface and
drive the seal out with a long punch and a
hammer by gradually working around the
back of the seal. It will eventually come
out, but don't be impatient by trying to
remove it in one whack. When installing
the new seal , turn the retainer over and
set the seal squarely in its bore. Use a
socket or a piece of steel, brass or alumi-
num which approximately matches the
outside diameter of the seal-a little larger
won't hurt, but smaller may damage the
seal-and a hammer to drive the seal in.
After the seal is in place, lubricate its lip
with some clean oil and replace the bearing
retainer on the transmission with a new
gasket and torque the retaining bolts :
19-25 ft. lbs . for side-cover 3-speeds,
overdrive 3 -speeds and top-cover 4-speeds;
12-15 ft. lbs. for side-cover 4-speeds; and
30-36 ft. lbs. for top-cover 3-speeds.
ENGINE PREPARATION AND
INSTALLATION
Now turn your attention to the engine
and the components which must bolt to
it prior to installation.
Clutch & Flywheel-If you have a standard
transmission, now's the time to find out
whether or not your clutch or flywheel
needs reconditioning or replacement. This
is , of course, purely academic if the clutch
slipped before. You'll already know some-
thing has to be replaced. The disc for sure,
136
Two pressure plates suffering from having been over-heated. One is warped as indicated by the gap
between ruler and pre.ssure-ring surface. Heat checks and chatter marks on other pressure-plate'S
surface indicates it has been extremely hot. If your pressure plate is suffering from either of these
symptoms, replace it. The same applies to your flywheel.
and maybe the pressure plate, or even the
flywheel. On the other hand, if it didn't
slip, the way to gauge clutch wear is by
the thickness of your clutch disc. As a
disc wears it naturally gets thinner. If 110t
corrected in time this eventually results in
pressure-plate and flywheel grooving as
the rivets will contact them directly.
Measure the Clutch Disc-To measure a
clutch disc , you 'll have to compress it to
its engaged thickness. When doing this be
careful not to damage the facings or get
grease or oil on them. Compress the disc
with some sort of clamp. A vise, C-clamp
or Vise-Grip pliers will do. Just clamp
the disc enough so the wave spring (mar-
cel) is flat. Measure the disc thickness as
close as possible to the clamp to get an
accurate reading. New disc thickness is
about 0.330 in. which allows for 0.050 in.
of wear, leaving a worn-out disc at 0.280-
in. thick. At 0.280 in., the rivet heads are
- -
Before installing your flywheel or flexplate, install the engine plate. Use gasket adhesive to hold i t An old transmission-input shaft being used t o
in place. Don't forget the load-spreader ring i f you have a flexplate. Apply sealer t o the bolt threads, align the clutch disc with the crankshaft pilot
then install and torque the bolts 75-85 ft.lbs. bearing. I t can be removed after the pressure
plate is secured by tightening each bolt a little
at a time.
even with the friction surface of the facing
and ready t o damage the flywheel and
pressure plate. As for what thickness you
should replace it, I don't know except
that if it only shows 0.010-in. wear, it
obviously doesn't need replacing. How-
ever, if it's down to 0.290 in. thick,
replace it. Anythlng in between depends
how long you want to drive before you
have to replace your clutch.
Pressure-Plate Inspection-Assuming you
have the disc problem all sorted out, in-
spect your pressure plate. The general
rule here is, if the disc wore out in a short
time from one thing or another, the pres-
sure plate may require replacing, but if
the disc looks good or gave you many
miles of good service, chances are it's all
right. The first thing to do in determining
whether a pressure plate is OK or not is
by just looking at it. If the friction surface
is bright and shiny, and free of deep groves
which result from the rivet heads of a
more than wornout disc, the pressure
plate is probably OK. If the friction sur-
face has black and blue spots (hot spots)
covering i t , it has been slipped excessively
and may be full of heat checks (cracks).
In any case, check the pressure-plate's
friction surface by laying a straight edge
across it. If it is warped, it will show an
increasing air gap between the straight
edge starting from nothing i t t he outer
periphery and increasing t o the inner
periphery of the pressure plate-it will be
warped concave. If the hot spots, heat
checks or warping are not too bad, you
should compare the price of resurfacing
your pressure plate versus purchasing a
new or rebuilt one if your budget is tight.
Otherwise don't waste time-replace it.
Regardless, if your clutch has seen more
than two discs it should be replaced no
matter how good the friction surface
looks. The bushings in the release mechan-
ism will be worn and the springs which
apply the pressure plate's pressure will be
weak from fatigue, resulting in reduced
clutch capacity. You may have gotten
away with it with a tired engine, but now
the engine will be developing more torque
than when it was new.
Flywheel Inspection-Because the fly-
wheel friction surface sees the same slip-
ping as the pressure plate, it will suffer
from the same basic ills. If your pressure
plate has hot spots, heat checks or is
warped, then look at your flywheel. Be-
cause it has more mass than the pressure
plate it will absorb more heat, meaning
it won't receive the same amount of dam-
age. For instance, you won't see a warped
flywheel because the heat required to do
it would destroy a clutch's facings first,
but on the other hand it is quite common
for a flywheel t o get hot enough to show
hot spots and heat checks. Also, a fly-
wheel is not immune to rivet damage, it
it can be grooved as easily as a pressure
plate. If your flywheel has hot spots, look
further for heat checks. If your pressure
plate is grooved from a worn disc, chances
are the flywheel is too. If it is heat-
checked or grooved very badly, it should
be resurfaced. Your engine machine shop
can do this or recommend a place t o get
it done. If you do have a flywheel resur-
faced, make sure the job is done on a
grinder and not on a lathe. Hot spots on
the friction surface of a flywheel are very
hard causing the surface to have bumps
on it if surfaced on a lathe, whereas
grinding will make it flat. Finally, if your
flywheel has heat checks that have devel-
oped into long radial cracks (like the
spokes of a wheel) toward the center, re-
place it. It can't be satisfactorily repaired
by resurfacing. More important, it's dan-
gerous! A cracked flywheel is highly sus-
ceptible to coming apart and exploding
like a hand grenade.
A flywheel that appears to be all right
should still be cleaned. For instance,
the clutch friction surface will be shiny,
or may have some deposits on it. To help
it and the clutch, use fine-grit sandpaper-
400 grit will do-to roughen the surface
and t o remove any resin binder deposited
by the clutch facings. Follow this up with
a cleaning using a non-petroleum-based
solvent such as alcohol or lacquer thinner.
This will remove any oil deposits. Give
the same treatment to the pressure plate
if you are planning t o use your old one
again.
The Clutch Release Bearing-The final
customer t o look at is the release bearing.
It should still be on the end of the release
lever in the clutch housing if you didn't
remove it. The rule is: replace it if you
are replacing your clutch. The next rule
is replace it anyway. The relative cost of a
new bearing and the amount of work i t
takes t o replace it now as opposed to
when your engine is back in should give
you a good idea as to what you should do.
Regardless of whether you replace the
bearing or not, grease the inner bore of
the bearing hub. There's a groove in the
hub for just that purpose. Don't overdo
it because too much grease can result in
clutch failure if it gets on the clutch disc.
Just fill the groove with some moly grease
and replace the bearing assembly on the
lever.
Engine Plate-Whether you have an auto-
matic or a standard transmission, there's
an engine plate t o install before the fly-
wheel or flexplate can go on. Because it
depends on the bellhousing or converter
housing t o hold it to the engine, it'll be
constantly falling off while you are trying
t o install the flywheel or flexplate and
will fall away from the rear face of the
engine block when you're attempting to
button the engine up t o the transmission.
Consequently, a little tip is in order here.
Apply a thin bead of 3M@ weatherstrip
Before installing your flywheel or flexplate, install the engine plate. Use gasket adhesive to hold it
in place. Don't forget the loadspreader ring if you have a flexplate. Apply sealer to the bolt threads,
then install and torque the bolts 75-85 ft.lbs.
even with the friction surface of the facing
and ready to damage the flywheel and
pressure plate. As for what thickness you
should replace it, I don't know except
that if it only shows O.OIO-in. wear, it
obviously doesn't need replacing. How-
ever, if it's down to 0.290 in. thick,
replace it. Anything in between depends
how long you want to drive before you
have to replace your clutch.
Pressure-Plate Inspection-Assuming you
have the disc problem all sorted out, in-
spect your pressure plate. The general
rule here is, if the disc wore ou t in a short
time from one thing or another, the pres-
sure plate may require replacing, but if
the disc looks good or gave you many
miles of good service, chances are it's all
right. The first thing to do in determining
whether a pressure plate is OK or not is
by just looking at it. If the friction surface
is bright and shiny, and free of deep groves
which result from the rivet heads of a
more than wornout disc, the pressure
plate is probably OK. If the friction sur-
face has black and blue spots (hot spots)
covering it, it has been slipped excessively
and may be fuJI of heat checks (cracks).
In any case, check the pressure-plate's
friction su rface by laying a straightedge
across it. If it is warped, it will show an
increasing air gap between the straight
edge starting from nothing i1tthe outer
periphery and increasing to the inner
periphery of the pressure plate-it will be
warped concave. If the hot spots, heat
checks or warping are not too bad , you
should compare the price of resurfacing
your pressure plate versus purchasing a
new or rebuilt one if your budget is tight.
Otherwise don't waste time-replace it.
Regardless, if your clutch has seen more
than two discs it should be replaced no
matter how good the friction surface
looks. The bushings in the release mechan-
ism will be worn and the springs which
apply the pressure plate's pressure will be
weak from fatigue, resulting in reduced
clutch capacity. You may have gotten
away with it with a tired engine, but now
the engine will be developing more torque
than when it was ne w .
Flywheel Inspection-Because the fly-
wheel friction surface sees the same slip-
ping as the pressure plate, it will suffer
from the same basic ills. If your pressure
plate has hot spots, heat checks or is
warped, then look at your flywheel. Be-
cause it has more mass than the pressure
plate it will absorb more heat, meaning
it won't receive the same amount of dam-
age. For instance, you won't see a warped
flywheel because the heat required to do
it would destroy a clutch's facings first,
but on the other hand it is quite common
for a flywheel to get hot enough to show
hot spots and heat checks. Also, a fly-
wheel is not immune to rivet damage, it
it can be grooved as easily as a pressure
plate. If your flywheel has hot spots, look
further for heat checks. If your pressure
plate is grooved from a worn disc, chances
are the flywheel is too. If it is heat-
checked or grooved very badly, it should
be resurfaced. Your engine machine shop
can do this or recommend a place to get
it done. If you do have a flywheel resur-
faced, make sure the job is done on a
grinder and not on a lathe. Hot spots on
the friction surface of a flywheel are very
hard causing the surface to have bumps
on it if surfaced on a lathe, whereas
grinding will make it flat. Finally, if your
flywheel has heat checks that have devel-
oped into long radial cracks (like the
spokes of a wheel) toward the center, re-
place it. It can't be sa tisfactorily repaired
by resurfacing. More important, it's dan-
gerous I A cracked flywheel is highly sus-
ceptible to coming apart and exploding
like a hand grenade.
A flywheel that appears to be all right
An old transmission-input shaft being used to
align the clutch disc with the crankshaft pilot
bearing. It can be removed after the pressure
plate is secured by tightening each bolt a little
at a time.
should still be cleaned. For instance,
the clutch friction surface will be shiny,
or may have some deposits on it. To help
it and the clutch, use fine-grit sandpaper-
400 grit will do-to roughen the surface
and to remove any resin binder deposited
by the clutch faCings. Follow this up with
a cleaning using a non-petroleum-based
solvent such as alcohol or lacquer thinner.
This will remove any oil deposits. Give
the same treatment to the pressure plate
if you are planning to use your old one
again.
The Clutch Release Bearing-The final
customer to look at is the release bearing.
It should still be on the end of the release
lever in the clutch housing if you didn't
remove it. The rule is: replace it if you
are replacing your clutch. The next rule
is replace it anyway. The relative cost of a
new bearing and the amount of work it
takes to replace it now as opposed to
when your engine is back in should give
you a good idea as to what you should do.
Regardless of whether you replace the
bearing or not, grease the inner bore of
the bearing hub. There's a groove in the
hub for just that purpose. Don't overdo
it because too much grease can result in
clu tch failure if it gets on the clutch disc.
Just fill the groove with some moly grease
and replace the bearing assembly on the
lever.
Engine Plate-Whether you have an auto-
matic or a standard transmission, there's
an engine plate to install before the fly-
wheel or flexplate can go on. Because it
depends on the bellhousing or converter
housing to hold it to the engine, it'll be
constantly falling off while you are trying
to install the flywheel or flexplate and
will fall away from the rear face of the
engine block when you're attempting to
button the engine up to the transmission.
Consequently, a little tip is in order here.
Apply a thin bead of 3M weatherstrip
137
adhesive to the rear face of your engine
block. It will hold the engine plate in
place. When installing the engine plate,
fit it over the locating dowels with the
starter hole t o the right and hold it in
place for a minute or so to make sure the
adhesive gets a good grip on the plate.
Flywheel or Flexplate-Make sure the
crankshaft-mounting flange is clean and
free of burrs or knicks which can cock
the flywheel or flexplate after it's
mounted, causing it to wobble. This is
particularly important in the case of fly-
wheels because it can cause clutch or
transmission problems. Install the fly-
wheel or flexplate using the six grade-8
bolts with a drop of Loctite Loc N' Seal@
on the threads. Don't forger the sealer.
The mounting holes in the crankshaft
flange are drilled and tapped straight
through the flange into the engine's
crankcase, and as a result crankcase oil
will leak past the threads into the bell-
housing or converter housing if they
aren't sealed. For automatic transmis-
sions, this means lost oil and spots on
the driveway. For standard transmission,
it also means an oiled clutch-consequent-
ly a ruined clutch. When locating the
flywheel or flexplate on the crankshaft
flange, rotate it until the holes in the
crank and the flywheel or flexplate line
up. The reason for this is the flywheel/
flexplate must be mounted in a certain
position on the crank t o maintain engine
balance. If you are mounting the flex-
plate, you will also have what amounts to
a load spreader which is a ring with the
same bolt pattern as the flywheel. Its
function is to spread the load exerted by
the mounting bolts so the area around
each bolt head doesn't become over-
stressed. This avoids cracking or breaking
the flexplate at the mounting bolts. Don't
forget this little ring with the six holes in
it. Snug the bolts up and torque them in
a zig-zag pattern to 75-85 ft. lbs.
Mounting the Clutch-Now that you have
the flywheel mounted on the engine,
you're ready for the clutch. Remember to
avoid touching the friction surfaces of
the pressure plate, the disc or the fly-
wheel. Grease on the clutch can cause
bad things like grabbing or slipping to
happen, so be careful what you touch. To
ensure the clutch friction surfaces are free
from oil and grease, clean with lacquer
thinner even though you're sure you
didn't get any oil or grease on them. To
mount the clutch you'll need one tool to
line the center of the clutch disc up with
the crankshaft-pilot bearing. An old
transmission input shaft works well, or
there are special tools for this job which
are inexpensive. Although you can prob-
ably do this job yourself, a friendly third
hand comes in handy. To install the
clutch, hold the pressure plate and the
disc against the flywheel while starting
at least 2 pressure-plate mounting bolts
and their lock washers. As soon as you
get the 2 bolts started to hold the pres-
sure plate and the disc in place, install
your clutch-alignment tool in the center
of the disc and into the crankshaft-pilot
bearing. You can now install the rest of
the bolts and washers loosely. A word of
caution at this point-don't tighten any
of the pressure-plate mounting bolts all
at once. This will result in junking the
pressure plate because it will bend the
cover. Tighten each bolt a couple of turns
at a time going around the pressure plate
till the cover is firmly against the fly-
wheel. Now you can remove the align-
ment tool and torque the pressure-plate
bolts 12-20 ft. lbs.
Install the Carburetor Heat Riser-If
your engine is equipped with a heat-
riser shroud and/or a spark plug shroud,
install them on the exhaust manifoldls.
Fit them over the exhaust-manifold-bolt
studs and secure them in place with the
mating nuts.
Spark Plugs-Now seems like a strange
time to install a new set of spark plugs.
You may think there is a good chance
some may get broken during the instal-
lation process, but fear not. The exhaust
manifolds do an excellent job of pro-
tecting the plugs. Remove the old plugs
which you installed t o keep the cylinders
clean and dry, and replace them with the
new ones. Check them for proper gap and
set them accordingly. Torque all the plugs
15-20 ft. lbs. except for the one in the
number-one cylinder. Just snug it up. It
has t o be removed when you install the
distributor.
Engine Mounts-The engine mounts used
with the small-block Ford vary according
to the car they are used in, however their
basic design remains the same. All use the
single through-bolt for ease of engine
installation and removal. Some mounts
are not interchangeable from side t o side,
so make sure you identify which is which.
When assembling the mounts to the
engine, make sure you have all the parts
that go with each mount. For instance,
the '68 Mustang pictured here uses a
starter-cable bracket which attaches to
the right-front engine-mount bolt. After
snugging the bolts up, torque them to
40 ft. lbs.
Alternator Bracket-If your engine only
has an alternator mounted on its right
side of it it has an air pump in addition
the the alternator, but with the alterna-
tor mounted above the air pump, now is
a good time to install the alternator
bracket. It makes a good handle for guid-
ing the engine into place. Install the
bracket loosely to the water pump and
then install the long alternator pivot bolt
which goes through the bracket, the alter-
nator and then threads into the head.
Run the bolt into the head a few turns
until the bolt stabilizes, then tighten the
bracket mounting bolts at the water
pump to 12-1 5 ft. lbs. The reason for
installing the alternator-pivot bolt is to
align the bracket so the alternator and
bolt will assemble later on without bind-
ing. Leave the bolt in the head until
you're ready to install the alternator.
Oil-Pressure Sending Unit-You'll have to
use your best judgement as to whether
or not to install your oil-pressure sending
unit now, or after your engine is in place.
Base your decision on whether you have
the smaller warning-light type or the large
sender and extension as used with a gage.
Remember, the extension is easily broken
if it is bumped during the engine instal-
lation.
To install the warning-light sender,
thread it into the lower-left-front side
of the engine block after coating its
threads with sealer. You'll need a 1-1116-
in. open-end wrench t o turn the large
hex. There is a special socket made just
for this sending unit, however they aren't
normally found in even the most pro-
fessional of tool chests, so count on using
an open end. Tighten the sender so it is
snug.
You'll have to use your discretion with
the larger gage-type sender. Whether you
decide t o install it now or after your en-
gine is in place, use sealer on the exten-
sion threads and tighten the assembly
with an open-end wrench. Use the wrench
at the cylinder-block end of the extension
t o minimize the bending load on the ex-
tension. Turn the extension and sending
unit so the assembly is snug and the
sender is pointing up.
Fuel-Pump-To install your fuel pump,
you'll need its gasket and 2 attaching
bolts 3/8-16 x 1-112-in. long. Use sealer
on both sides of the gasket and coat the
end of the pump actuating arm at the
cam bearing surface with moly grease.
Install the pump by forcing it t o line up
with its mounting holes as the actuating
arm contacts its cam, then thread the
bolts into place. Torque them 20-25
ft. lbs.
Crankshaft Pulley-Install the crankshaft
pulley on the Erankshaft damper. For
good centering of the pulley it has an
extruded hole which pilots into the cen-
ter of the damper. Make sure the pulley
is piloting before you tighten the bolts.
Torque them t o 40-50 ft. lbs.
Position the Crankshaft-There's not
much more you can do with the engine
out, so the big moment has come. Attach
a chain to the front of the left head and
to the rear of the right head as you did
when removing the engine. Now, if you
have an automatic transmission, the most
important thing t o do is to rotate the
crankshaft so the marked hole on the
flexplate will be at the bottom so it will
line up with the torque converter. It
won't take long for you t o find out how
important this is if the converter studs
and the flexplate holes don't line up.
adhesive to the rear face of your engine
block. It will hold the engine plate in
place. When installing the engine plate,
fit it over the locating dowels with the
starter hole to the right and hold it in
place for a minute or so to make sure the
adhesive gets a good grip on the plate.
Flywheel or Flexplate-Make sure the
crankshaft-mounting flange is clean and
free of burrs or knicks which can cock
the flywheel or flexplate after it's
mounted, causing it to wobble. This is
particularly important in the case of fly-
wheels because it can cause clutch or
transmission problems. Install the fly-
wheel or flexplate using the six grade-8
bolts with a drop of Loctite Lac N' Seal
on the threads. Don't forger the sealer.
The mounting holes in the crankshaft
flange are drilled and tapped straight
through the flange into the engine's
crankcase, and as a result crankcase oil
will leak past the threads into the bell-
housing or converter housing if they
aren't sealed. For automatic transmis-
sions, this means lost oil and spots on
the driveway. For standard transmission,
it also means an oiled clutch-consequent-
ly a ruined clutch. When locating the
flywheel or flexplate on the crankshaft
flange, rotate it until the holes in the
crank and the flywheel or flexplate line
up. The reason for this is the flywheel/
flexplate must be mounted in a certain
position on the crank to maintain engine
balance. If you are mounting the flex-
plate, you will also have what amounts to
a load spreader which is a ring with the
same bolt pattern as the flywheel. Its
function is to spread the load exerted by
the mounting bolts so the area around
each bolt head doesn't become over-
stressed. This avoids cracking or breaking
the flexplate at the mounting bolts. Don't
forget this little ring with the six holes in
it. Snug the bolts up and torque them in
a zig-zag pattern to 75-85 ft.lbs.
Mounting the Clutch-Now that you have
the flywheel mounted on the engine,
you're ready for the clutch. Remember to
avoid touching the friction surfaces of
the pressure plate, the disc or the fly-
wheel. Grease on the clutch can cause
bad things like grabbing or slipping to
happen, so be careful what you touch. To
ensure the clutch friction surfaces are free
from oil and grease, clean with lacquer
thinner even though you're sure you
didn't get any oil or grease on them. To
mount the clutch you'll need one tool to
line the center of the clutch disc up with
the crankshaft-pilot bearing. An old
transmission input shaft works well, or
there are special tools for this job which
are inexpensive. Although you can prob-
ably do this job yourself, a friendly third
hand comes in handy. To install the
clutch, hold the pressure plate and the
disc against the flywheel while starting
at least 2 pressure-plate mounting bolts
138
and their lock washers. As soon as you
get the 2 bolts started to hold the pres-
sure plate and the disc in place, install
your clutch-alignment tool in the center
of the disc and into the crankshaft-pilot
bearing. You can now install the rest of
the bolts and washers loosely. A word of
caution at this point-don't tighten any
of the pressure-plate mounting bolts all
at once. This will result in junking the
pressure plate because it will bend the
cover. Tighten each bolt a couple of turns
at a time going around the pressure plate
till the cover is firmly against the fly-
wheel. Now you can remove the align-
ment tool and torque the pressure-plate
bolts 12-20 ft.lbs.
Install the Carburetor Heat Riser-If
your engine is equipped with a heat-
riser shroud and/or a spark plug shroud,
install them on the exhaust manifold/s.
Fit them over the exhaust-manifold-bolt
studs and secure them in place with the
mating nuts.
Spark Plugs-Now seems like a strange
time to install a new set of spark plugs.
You may think there is a good chance
some may get broken during the instal-
lation process, but fear not. The exhaust
manifolds do an excellent job of pro-
tecting the plugs. Remove the old plugs
which you installed to keep the cylinders
clean and dry, and replace them with the
new ones. Check them for proper gap and
set them accordingly. Torque all the plugs
15-20 ft. Ibs. except for the one in the
number-one cylinder. Just snug it up. It
has to be removed when you install the
distributor.
Engine Mounts-The engine mounts used
with the small-block Ford vary according
to the car they are used in, however their
basic design remains the same. All use the
single through-bolt for ease of engine
installation and removal. Some mounts
are not interchangeable from side to side,
so make sure you identify which is which.
When assembling the mounts to the
engine, make sure you have all the parts
that go with each mount. For instance,
the '68 Mustang pictured here uses a
starter-cable bracket which attaches to
the right-front engine-mount bolt. After
snugging the bolts up, torque them to
40 ft.lbs.
Alternator Bracket-If your engine only
has an alternator mounted on its right
side of it it has an air pump in addition
the the alternator, but with the alterna-
tor mounted above the air pump, now is
a good time to install the alternator
bracket. It makes a good handle for guid-
ing the engine in to place. Install the
bracket loosely to the water pump and
then install the long alternator pivot bolt
which goes through the bracket, the alter-
nator and then threads into the head.
Run the bolt into the head a few turns
un til the bol t stabilizes, then tigh ten the
bracket mounting bolts at the water
pump to 12-15 ft. Ibs. The reason for
installing the alternator-pivot bolt is to
align the bracket so the alternator and
bolt will assemble later on without bind-
ing. Leave the bolt in the head until
you're ready to install the alternator.
Oil-Pressure Sending Unit-You'll have to
use your best judgement as to whether
or not to install your oil-pressure sending
unit now, or after your engine is in place.
Base your decision on whether you have
the smaller warning-light type or the large
sender and extension as used with a gage.
Remember, the extension is easily broken
if it is bumped during the engine instal-
lation.
To install the warning-light sender,
thread it into the lower-left-front side
of the engine block after coating its
threads with sealer. You'll need a 1-1/16-
in. open-end wrench to turn the large
hex. There is a special socket made just
for this sending unit, however they aren't
normally found in even the most pro-
fessional of tool chests, so count on using
an open end. Tighten the sender so it is
snug.
You'll have to use your discretion with
the larger gage-type sender. Whether you
decide to install it now or after your en-
gine is in place, use sealer on the exten-
sion threads and tighten the assembly
with an open-end wrench. Use the wrench
at the cylinder-block end of the extension
to minimize the bending load on the ex-
tension. Turn the extension and sending
unit so the assembly is snug and the
sender is pointing up.
Fuel-Pump-To install your fuel pump,
you'll need its gasket and 2 attaching
bolts 3/8-16 x I-I/2-in. long. Use sealer
on both sides of the gasket and coat the
end of the pump actuating arm at the
cam bearing surface with moly grease.
Install the pump by forcing it to line up
with its mounting holes as the actuating
arm contacts its cam, then thread the
bolts into place. Torque them 20-25
ft.lbs.
Crankshaft Pulley-Install the crankshaft
pulley on the crankshaft damper. For
good centering of the pulley it has an
extruded hole which pilots into the cen-
ter of the damper. Make sure the pulley
is piloting before you tighten the bolts.
Torque them to 40-50 ft.lbs.
Position the Crankshaft-There's not
much more you can do with the engine
out, so the big moment has come. Attach
a chain to the front of the left head and
to the rear of the right head as you did
when removing the engine. Now, if you
have an automatic transmission, the most
important thing to do is to rotate the
crankshaft so the marked hole on the
flexplate will be at the bottom so it will
line up with the torque converter. It
won't take long for you to find out how
importan t this is if the converter studs
and the flex plate holes don't line up.
Use sealer on the oi-pressure-sending-unit threads. Short "idiot-light" sender can be installed now without danger of damaging i t during engine installation,
but not the gauge type. I t is shown being installed now only so you can see how to do it once the engine is installed. When installing the gauge-type
sender, rotate i t so the end points up as shown.
With this in mind, double-check t o see if
the converter is positioned correctly and
you should be ready t o get the engine and
car back together again.
INSTALLING THE ENGINE
Lift the engine and position it so it's
level side-to-side and level front-to-back
or a little low at the rear. Set the engine
down and adjust it till you get it right.
It'll save a lot of unnecessary trouble
when you're trying to mate the engine to
the converter or bellhousing. Now is
another one of those times when it's
handy to have a helpful friend on the
scene-someone to help guide the engine
into place and get those first couple of
converter-housing or bellhousing bolts
started. Position the floor jack under the
transmission and raise it up enough so
you can remove the wires or whatever
you used t o support the transmission and
exhaust pipes. If you have a standard
transmission, put a few drops of oil in
the crankshaft pilot bearing and smear
a little moly grease inside the clutch disc
splines and put the transmission in gear.
Take one last look in the engine compart-
ment and make sure everything is tied up
out of the way so nothing will interfere
with the engine as it is being lowered into
place.
Lower the Engine in-Position the engine
over the car or the car under the engine
and lower the engine gently into the en-
gine compartment. The front of the trans-
mission will need to be raised higher than
it would normally be in its installation
position so the engine can be lined up
and engaged with it while clearing the
engine mounts. This is particularly true
with a manual transmission. For a man-
ual transmission, carefully guide the
engine back, centering the clutch disc
on the transmission-input shaft. When the
Install the fuel pump. Use sealer on the gaskets
and torque the bolts 20-25 ft.lbs.
disc and input-shaft splines contact each
other, rock the engine back-and-forth
while holding the engine against the input
shaft until the splines engage. You can
then put the transmission in neutral,
leaving the engine free to rotate into
engagement with the bellhousing. This
means lining the engine dowel pins up
with the bellhousing holes. When this
happens, the two will literally "click"
together, signaling you to get at least one
bolt in on each side of the housing in as
low a position as you can reach from
above.
When it comes to automatic trans-
missions, the converter studs and the
engine dowels must engage almost simul-
taneously. Do just as is done with a stan-
dard transmission and push on the engine
while rocking it, but not as much. If you
have things lined up well, this job will
only be difficult. You'll have to climb
right in there with the engine, even to the
point of standing on your head so you
can look down between the rear-face of
the engine and the converter housing.
This is so you can see the relative posi-
tions of the two. When the engine and the
housing come together, get a bolt into the
engine on each side and as low as you can
reach. Tighten the bolts.
Engine-Mount Bolts-Now that the engine
and transmission are mated, you can re-
move the jack from under the transmis-
sion. Lower the engine while lining up
the holes in the engine mounts. Because
the right one is more accessible, install
one of the through bolts and the other
mount should line up automatically.
Before putting the nuts on the bolts and
tightening them up, lower the engine all
the way down and remove the lifting
chain from the engine. You're now
finished with the engine hoist. Jack the
car up in the air and set it on jack-stands.
With the car firmly supported, slide
underneath and finish installing the
engine-mount through bolts. A box-end
wrench on the head of the bolt to keep it
from turning and a long extension with a
socket and ratchet on the nut is the easier
way to tighten these.
Use sealer on the oi-pressure-sending-unit threads. Short "idiot-light" sender can be installed now without danger of damaging it during engine installation,
but not the gauge type. It is shown being installed now only so you can see how to do it once the engine is installed. When installing the gauge-type
sender, rotate it so the end points up as shown.
With this in mind, double-check to see if
the converter is positioned correctly and
you should be ready to get the engine and
car back together again.
INSTALLING THE ENGINE
Lift the engine and position it so it's
level side-to-side and level front-to-back
or a little low at the rear. Set the engine
down and adjust it till you get it right.
It'll save a lot of unnecessary trouble
when you're trying to mate the engine to
the converter or bellhousing. Now is
another one of those times when it's
handy to have a helpful friend on the
scene - someone to help guide the engine
into place and get those first couple of
converter-housing or bellhousing bolts
started. Position the floor jack under the
transmission and raise it up enough so
you can remove the wires or whatever
you used to support the transmission and
exhaust pipes. If you have a standard
transmission, put a few drops of oil in
the crankshaft pilot bearing and smear
a little moly grease inside the clutch disc
splines and put the transmission in gear.
Take one last look in the engine compart-
ment and make sure everything is tied up
ou t of the way so nothing will in terfere
with the engine as it is being lowered into
place.
Lower the Engine in-Position the engine
over the car or the car under the engine
and lower the engine gently into the en-
gine compartment. The front of the trans-
mission will need to be raised higher than
it would normally be in its installation
position so the engine can be lined up
and engaged with it while clearing the
engine mounts. This is particularly true
with a manual transmission. For a man-
ual transmission, carefully guide the
engine back, centering the clutch elisc
on the transmission-input shaft. When the
Install the fuel pump. Use sealer on the gaskets
and torque the bolts 20-25 ft.lbs.
disc and input-shaft splines contact each
other, rock the engine back-and-forth
while holding the engine against the input
shaft until the splines engage . You can
then put the transmission in neutral,
leaving the engine free to rotate into
engagement with the bellhousing. This
means lining the engine dowel pins up
with the beilliousing holes. When this
happens, the two will literally "click"
together, Signaling you to get at least one
bolt in on each side of the housing in as
low a position as you can reach from
above.
When it comes to automatic trans-
missions, the converter studs and the
engine dowels must engage almost simul-
taneously. Do just as is done with a stan-
dard transmission and push on the engine
while rocking it, but not as much. If you
have things lined up well , this job will
only be difficult. You'll have to climb
right in there with the engine , even to the
point of standing on your head so you
can look down between the rear-face of
the engine and the converter housing.
This is so you can see the relative posi-
tions of the two. When the engine and the
housing come together, get a bolt in to the
engine on each side and as low as you can
reach. Tighten the bolts .
Engine-Mount Bolts-Now that the engine
and transmission are mated, you can re-
move the jack from under the transmis-
sion. Lower the engine while lining up
the holes in the engine mounts. Because
the right one is more accessible, install
one of the through bolts and the other
mount should line up automatically.
Before putting the nuts on the bolts and
tightening them up, lower the engine all
the way down and remove the lifting
chain from the engine . You're now
finished with the engine hoist. Jack the
car up in the air and set it on jack-stands.
With the car firmly supported, slide
underneath and finish installing the
engine-mount through bolts. A box-end
wrench on the head of the bolt to keep it
from turning and a long extension with a
socket and ratchet on the nut is the easier
way to tighten these .
139
-
Wi th the flexplate '(automatic transmission) mark positioned at the bot t om and all the
hardware you can hang on your engine, it is ready t o be reinstalled. Hoist i t over its
compartment and do as Ron is saying, "Let 'er down easy, Sam." You'll need a jack
under the transmission so you can line it up wi t h the engine. It takes a l ot of joggling
t o get a couple of bol ts i n the t op of the housing.
Bellhousing or Converter Housing t o
Engine-Install as many bellhousing or
converter-housing-to-engine bolts as you
can manage from under the car. Torque
them 40-50 ft. lbs.
Starter Motor-Make sure that when
you're gathering the starter motor and
the attaching bolts that you get the right
two bolts. Many, but not all, starter-
motor mounting bolts are special and can
be recognized by their reduced hex size
and the integral washer forged into the
bolt. The normal hex size for a 7116-in.
bolt is 518-in. whereas these are 112-in.
The reason is to provide wrench clearance
between the bolt and the starter motor-
the bolts are that close!
When putting the starter in place for
mounting, cars such as the Falcon, '72
and earlier MustanglCougar, all Maverick/
Comet and the GranadalMonarch require
that the end opposite from the geared
end be guided up behind the steering
linkage, slipped forward and then backed
into the engine-plate opening. It's not
difficult to do, things just have to be
done a particular way. Once you get the
starter in place, thread the top bolt into
the bellhousing/converter housing first.
This will support the starter so you can
140
With the flexplate (automatic transmission) mark positioned at the bottom and all the
hardware you can hang on your engine, it is ready to be reinstalled. Hoist it over its
compartment and do as Ron is saying, "Let 'er down easy, Sam." You'll need a jack
under the transmission so you can line it up with the engine. It takes a lot of joggling
to get a couple of bolts in the top of the housing.
Bellhousing or Converter Housing to
Engine-Install as many bellhousing or
converter-housing-to-engine bolts as you
can manage from under the car. Torque
them 40-50 ft. lbs.
Starter Motor-Make sure that when
you're gathering the starter motor and
the attaching bolts that you get the right
two bolts. Many, but not all, starter-
motor mounting bolts are special and can
be recognized by their reduced hex size
and the integral washer forged into the
bol t. The normal hex size for a 7 /16-in.
bol t is 5 /8-in . whereas these are 1 /2-in.
The reason is to provide wrench clearance
between the bolt and the starter motor-
the bolts are that close!
When putting the starter in place for
mounting, cars such as the Falcon, '72
and earlier Mustang/Cougar , all Maverick/
Comet and the Granada/Monarch require
that the end opposite from the geared
end be guided up behind the steering
linkage, slipped forward and then backed
into the engine-plate opening. It's not
difficult to do, things just have to be
done a particular way. Once you get the
starter in place, thread the top bolt in to
the bellhousing/converter housing first.
This will support the starter so you can
With the engine and transmission engaged lower
the engine until the holes i n a mount line up.
Install the through bolt then line up the other
mount. Bolts can be secured with their nu6
after you have your car up in the air.
Connect the two leads to the block with
the star washer against the block t o ensure
a good ground. With a friend at the igni-
tion switch or with a remote starter switch,
you can now turn the crank the modern
way. If you have a standard transmission,
you don't have t o worry about it.
Converter-to-Flexplate Nuts-For an auto-
matic transmission, the converter can
now be attached firmly t o the flexplate.
Remember you'll have to tighten one, :hen
rotate the crank approximately 90 to
get to the next one until you have nuts
on all studs. Be careful again if you are
using the friend on the ignition switch
approacli. Make sure he understands the
switch shouldn't be touched unless you
say so. Torque the nuts to 25 ft. Ibs.
Install the converter cover to the housing.
If the upper lip of the cover fits a little
tight between the engine plate and the
converter housing, tap it lightly into place
with a hammer. When lined up, install the
two lower bolts in addition t o the one at
the top opposite the starter which goes
through the engine plate, the converter
cover and then threads into the housing.
Maximum torque is 15 ft. lbs.
Engine-Plate-to-Bellhousing Attachment-
The engne plate used with standard
transmissions extends down in front of
the bellhousing to seal the clutch area.
Two bolts clamp the engine plate to the
bellhousing. Torque them t o 15 ft. lbs.
Make sure you have the small 112-in, hex-head bolts before you install your starter. After you jockey the starter into place, install the bolts and torque
them if you find room for your torque wrench-20 ft.lbs. max. A "calibrated hand" and a box-end wrench are being used here.
release it. Be careful when tightening
these special bolts. It's easy t o round
their heads off. Torque them to a maxi-
mum of 20 ft. lbs.
After getting the starter motor into
place, connect the battery hot-lead.
Route the cable through any clips or
brackets it may run through as it goes to
the battery such as the bracket used at
most right-side engine mounts.
Battery and Alternator-If you want t o
use the starter t o rotate the crank when
you're fastening down the torque con-
verter to the flexplate on an automatic
transmission, you'll have to install the
battery, connect it to the starter-solenoid
lead, connect the engine ground cable to
the engine and the battery. Because the
battery ground and the alternatorlgener-
ator lead connect t o the engine, hang the
alternatorlgenerator on the engine loosely.
Don't forget the spacer if yours uses one.
Install the battery, alternatorlgelierator and their
expose the converter studs. Install the nuts and
using the two bolts with lock washers.
leads now so
torque them
8 you can bump your
t o 25 ft.lbs. Install
engine over t
the cover plat
With the engine and transmission engaged lower
the engine until the holes in a mount line up.
I nstall the through bolt then line up the other
mount. Bolts can be secured with their nuts
after you have your car up in the air.
Connect the two leads to the block with
the star washer against the block to ensure
a good ground. With a friend at the igni-
tion switch or with a remote starter switch,
you can now turn the crank the modern
way. If you have a standard transmission,
you don't have to worry about it.
Converter-to-Flexplate Nuts-For an auto-
matic transmission, the converter can
now be attached firmly to the flexplate.
Remember you'll have to tighten one, then
rotate the crank approximately 90 to
get to the next one until you have nu ts
on all studs. Be careful again if you are
using the friend on the ignition switch
approach. Make sure he understands the
switch shouldn't be touched unless you
say so . Torque the nuts to 25 ft. lbs .
Install the converter cover to the housing.
If the upper lip of the cover fits a little
tight between the engine plate and the
converter housing, tap it lightly into place
with a hammer. When lined up, install the
two lower bolts in addition to the one at
the top opposite the starter which goes
through the engine plate , the converter
cover and then threads into the housing.
Maximum torque is 15 ft. Ibs.
Engine-Pia te- to-Bellhousing Attachment-
The engine plate used with standard
transmissions extends down in front of
the beUhousing to seal the c1u tch area.
Two bolts clamp the engine plate to the
bellhousing. Torque them to 15 ft. Ibs.
Make sure you have the small 1/2in. hexhead bolts before you install your starter. After you jockey the starter into place, install the bolts and torque
them if you find room for your torque wrench-20 ft.lbs. max. A "calibrated hand" and a box-end wrench are being used here.
release it. Be careful when tightening
these special bolts . It's easy to round
their heads off. Torque them to a maxi-
mum of 20 ft. Ibs.
After getting the starter motor into
place, connect the battery hot-lead .
Route the cable through any clips or
brackets it may run through as it goes to
the battery such as the bracket used at
most right-side engine mounts .
Battery and Alternator-If you want to
use the starter to rotate the crank when
you're fastening down the torque con-
verter to the flexplate on an automatic
transmission, you'll have to install the
battery, connect it to the starter-solenoid
lead, connect the engine ground cable to
the engine and the battery. Because the
battery ground and the alternator/gener-
ator lead connect to the engine, hang the
alternator/generator on the engine loosely .
Don't forget the spacer if yours uses one.
Install the battery, alternator/generator and their leads now so you can bump your engine over to
expose the converter studs. Install the nuts and torque them to 25 ft.lbs. Install the cover plate
using the two bolts with lock washers.
141
this operation. One nut on a stud will
free you so you won't have t o hold the
pipes in place. You can now install the
other nuts and torque them t o a maxi-
mum of 35 ft. lbs. Some of the earlier
engines, the 221s and the 260s, used
direct-mating flanges which require flat
gaskets. If yours is this type, apply some
weatherstrip adhesive on one side of the
gaskets to hold them in place, install
the gaskets, lift the pipes up to the mani-
fold and install the nuts. Torque them to
35 ft. lbs.
Oil Filter-Before setting the car down
for the last time, install the filter. It's
usually easier from under the car. Prior
t o installing it, fill the filter about half
full of oil so the engine will receive lubri-
cation sooner-it won't have t o fill the
filter first. Smear oil on the seal and
thread the filter on. Turn the filter 112-
turn after the seal makes contact with the
engine block. If you have a Boss 302
connect the oil-cooler lines t o the back
of the adapter and the top one to the
front. Check to make sure the oil-pan
drain plug is tight and you can set your
car down.
Engine Oil-If for no other reason than t o
take a break, now's a good time to fill
your crankcase with oil. Because your oil
filter is partially filled, add one less quart
than specified-5 quarts for all passenger
cars and 6 quarts for most light trucks.
Check the oil level after running your
pipes to the exhaust manifolds. As you look up
at the left pipe, you can see this area is tight.
Exhaust Pipes t o Exhaust Manifold-If
your gasket kit contains two conical-
shaped pieces of asbestos with approxi-
mately a 2411, hole in each, they are
exhaust-pipe-to-manifold gaskets. Remove
the old ones from the exhaust-pipe ends
and slide the new ones on. You can now
pilot the exhaust pipes into the exhaust
manifolds, slide the flanges up each pipe
and hold each in place while You get a
Before reinstalling your carburetor you may want t o rebuild i t using a standard rebuild kit. Have
some lacquer thinner handy for cleaning the parts and follow directions in the kit.
--.---..
For Boss 302 engines connect the engine-oil cooling lines to the oil-filter adapter and install the oil-
nut on one of the manifold studs. Long
pressure sending unit. Regardless of which engine you have, install its oil filter now. Drawing cour-
and agile fingers are a definite asset for
tesy
Using new gaskets, hook up the exhaust-i nlet
pipes to the exhaust manifolds. As you look up
at the left pipe, you can see this area is tight .
Exhaust Pipes to Exhaust Manifold-If
your gasket kit contains two conical-
shaped pieces of asbestos with approxi-
ma tely a 2-in. hole in each, they are
exhaust-pipe-to-manifold gaskets. Remove
the old ones from the exhaust-pipe ends
and slide the new ones on. You can now
pilot the exhaust pipes into the exhaust
manifolds, slide the flanges up each pipe
and hold each in place while you get a
nut on one of the manifold studs . Long
and agile fingers are a definite asset for
this operation. One nut on a stud will
free you so you won't have to hold the
pipes in place. You can now install the
other nuts and torque them to a maxi-
mum of 35ft. lbs. Some of the earlier
engines, the 221s and the 260s, used
direct-mating flanges which require flat
gaskets. If yours is this type, apply some
weatherstrip adhesive on one side of the
gaskets to hold them in place, install
the gaskets, lift the pipes up to the mani-
fold and install the nuts. Torque them to
35 ft. Ibs.
Oil Filter-Before setting the car down
for the last time, install the filter. It's
usually easier from under the car. Prior
to installing it, fill the filter abou t half
full of oil so the engine will receive lubri-
cation sooner - it won't have to fill the
filter first. Smear oil on the seal and
thread the filter on . Turn the filter 1/2-
turn after the seal makes contact with the
engine block. If you have a Boss 302
connect the oil-cooler lines to the back
of the adapt er and the top one to the
front. Check to make sure the oil-pan
drain plug is tight and you can set your
car down .
Engine Oil-If for no other reason than to
take a break, now' s a good time to fill
your crankcase with oil. Because your oil
filter is partially filled, add one less quart
than specified - 5 quarts for all passenger
cars and 6 quarts for most light trucks.
Check the oil level after running your
142
For Boss 302 engines connect the engine-oil cooling lines to the oil-filter adapter and install the oil-
pressure sending unit. Regardless of which engine you have. install its oil filter now. Drawing cour-
tesy Ford.
Before reinstalling your carburetor you may want to rebuild it using a standard rebuild kit. Have
some lacquer thinner handy for cleaning the parts and follow directions in the kit.
Wi th t he carburetor spacer and t he t wo gaskets i n place, install your carburetor. Use washers under t he nuts. Do not tighten nuts more than 15 ft. Ibs.
Make the necessary connections t o t he carburetor now: f uel line, PCV hose and choke heat tube. Install a new fuel filter.
Crankcase-venting s y s t G f r o m t he early r oaddr af t tube and t he early-style PCV system t o t he late closed PCV system. No
matter whi ch system your engine uses, clean t he oi l -fi l l er cap by soaking it i n solvent t o l et the crankcase breathe. Drawings
courtesy Ford.
With the carburetor spacer and the two gaskets in place, install your carburetor. Use washers under the nuts. Do not tighten nuts more than 15 ft. Ibs.
Make the necessary connections to the carburetor now: fuel line, PCV hose and choke heat tube. Install a new fuel filter.
Crankcase-venting systems from the early road-draft tube and the early-style PCV system to the late closed PCV system. No
matter which system your engine uses, clean the oil-filler cap by soaking it in solvent to let the crankcase breathe. Drawings
courtesy Ford.
143
engine, then bring it up to the full mark.
Carburetor-Carburetors have varied wide-
ly over the years during the existence of
the small-block Fords-from the perfor-
mance-oriented high-performance 289
with its four-barrel carburetor and
manual choke t o some of the later emis-
sions and mileage-oriented two-barrel
equipped 302s and 351s. Regardless
of the engine, most use a spacer between
the carburetor and the intake mani-
fold. This insulates the carburetor from
the intake manifold and provides an inlet
for the PCV system into the engine's
induction system. Install a gasket on the
manifold followed by the spacer and then
another gasket. You can now position the
carburetor on the manifold, or spacer
and secure it with the four attaching nuts.
Go around the carburetor tightening each
one a little at a time until all are at the
correct torque. Don't exceed 15 ft. lbs.,
they are easily stripped. Progressively
tightening the bolts eliminates the pos-
sibility of breaking the carburetor flange.
Crankcase Ventilation-Hook up the lines
to the carburetor starting with the PCV
valve and hose. First check the valve.
Shake it andlisten for a rattle. If it rattles,
the valve is OK t o install. Otherwise, soak
it in solvent until it loosens up. Replace
it if it doesn't rattle after soaking. Plug
the valve into the valve cover, usually at
the right rear. Connect the hose from the
valve to the carburetor spacer. If you
have one of the earlier small blocks, the
crankcase portion of the PCV system ran
t o the back of the intake manifold and
used a valve which spliced into hose.
These can be found on some of the 221s,
260s and pre-1966 289s. Those engines
not using a PCV system used a road-draft
tube instead. It replaced the PCV system
at the manifold and vented the crankcase
to the atmosphere. If yours is this type, I
suggest changing it over t o the PCV
system because of the emissions aspect
and t o keep the engine cleaner inside. It
will also get slightly better gas mileage!
The harmful fumes circulating in the
crankcase will be drawn into the combus-
tion chamber and burned rather than
contaminating the crankcase oil or venting
into the air.
Choke-If you have a high-performance
289, hook up the choke cable and adjust
it. With the choke knob all the way in,
clamp the cable conduit after securing the
cable end t o the choke-plate lever with
the choke open. On the other hand, if
you have an automatic choke, connect
the heat tube from the right exhaust
manifold to the choke. Some engines
have another tube which parallels this
tube. Connect it t o the tube coming from
the right-rear underside of the carburetor
base. This tube provides filtered air t o the
choke heat tube at the exhaust manifold.
easy to cross-thread it. Just make sure the
tube is bent so it has a "straight shot" at
the choke. Not all engines, but some have
another tube which parallels this tube.
Connect it t o the tube coming from the
right-rear underside of the carburetor
base. This tube provides filtered air t o the
choke heat tube.
Carburetor Linkage-You will have either
a single rod connecting the carburetor t o
the accelerator-pedal lever at the firewall
or it will go to a bellcrank with mounts
on the intake manifold and then a second
rod connects the bellcrank t o the acceler-
ator. In addition, there is a rod which
parallels this one which connects the bell-
crank t o the firewall. If you are puzzled
by this arrangement, it's to cancel the
effect of engine roll on the position of
the throttle. The latest linkage used is the
cable type. When a cable is used in con-
junction with an automatic transn~ission,
you'll also have a kick-down rod t o attach
t o the throttle-plate lever.
For attaching the simple lever-type
linkage, position the retaining clip over
the throttle-plate-lever hole first, then in-
sert the bent end of the rod in the hole.
You can now rotate the clip over the rod.
For the bellcrank type, mount the bell-
crank t o the intake manifold and then the
rod to the carburetor unless you removed
the bellcrank from the engine compart-
ment rather than just rotating it up out of
the way. If this is the case, you'll have t o
hook up the other two rods, also.
The final customer is the cable type.
Just insert the cable through the cable
bracket attached t o the intake manifold.
Push it far enough so the end of the cable
conduit clips into the bracket. There'll be
a ball-pivot extending from the throttle-
plate lever. Push the end of the cable over .
it until it clips into place. If you have an
automatic transmission, hook the kick-
down rod by slipping it over a pin on the
throttle-plate lever and retain it with the
clip you should've left on the carburetor.
The last thing to do with the throttle
linkage is to install the return springs.
Earlier rod types have a bracket at the
right-rear carburetor-mounting stud.
Attach the spring between. this bracket
and the zig-zag in the throttle rod. The
bellcrank type has its return spring on the
bellcrank itself. It should still be there
because you didn't have to remove it. The
cable type has one return spring as part of
the cable assembly and also uses an addi-
tional spring which hooks between the
throttle-plate lever and a bracket on the
left-front carburetor-mounting stud. In-
stall the spring between these two points.
Ignition Coil-Mount the ignition coil t o
the intake manifold or the front of the
left cylinder head. If your coil was origi-
nally mounted to the manifold, relocate
it to the head, or t o the A/C bracket in a
vertical position. The reason for this,
particularly in hot climates, is that under-
hood temperatures reduce a coil's output
which usually results in coil failure. You
may have to modify the coil-mounting
bracket slightly so it will mount in these
other locations, but the extra effort now
will pay off later, particularly if you've
had recurring ignition problems.
Wiring Hamess-Locate the engine-wiring
harness along the inboard side of the left
valve cover. Retain the harness in the
clips you've installed under the valve-cover
bolts and connect the leads t o the oil-
pressure and water-temperature sending
units and t o the ignition coil. If your car
has A/C, there'll be another wire separate
from the main harness which is routed
along with the main harness. This lead
operates the A/C compressor clutch.
Fuel Filter and Line-The biggest variation
you'll find in the fuel-pump-to-carburetor
plumbing is the type of filter your engine
is equipped with and its location. The
latest and commonest type threads into
the carburetor float bowl. Another is the
in-line type followed by the very early
cartridge type. Regardless of which one
your engine uses, install a new filter and
complete the line routing.
Set Number-1 Cylinder on TDC-A dis-
tributor should be installed so it is in
position t o fire the number-1 cylinder.
This also requires that the piston in the
number-1 cylinder be set on the TDC of
its powerstroke. Remember, the number-1
TDC mark on the crankshaft damper
passes the timing pointer twice for each
complete cycle, once between the exhaust
and intake strokes and once between the
intake and power strokes. The later is the
one you want.
There are several ways of determining
when a piston is at the top of its power
stroke, but I'm just going t o discuss the
easy method. It doesn't require using much
more than your common sense. Start by
removing the number-1 spark plug-that's
why I suggested leaving it loose earlier.
Put your thumb over the hole, then crank
the engine over. You should feel the com-
pression lift your thumb once every two
revolutions as the piston approaches the
top of its power stroke. Now that you
have a feel for it, bump your engine slowly
while keeping your eye on the damper. As
you feel your thumb beginning to lift,
the timing mark should be approaching
the pointer. When it's in sight, stop. Bring
the TDC mark within 10' of the pointer
and you're ready t o install the distributor.
You can now reinstall the spark plug and
torque it 15-20 ft. lbs.
Installing the Distributor-With the engine
timed, you can now install the distributor.
To be able to "time" the distributor with
the engine, you need a way to determine
the position the distributor rotor should
be in t o fire the cylinder 1. Use the dis-
tributor cap as a reference to mark the
distributor housing for locating the rotor.
engine, then bring it up to the full mark.
Carburetor-Carburetors have varied wide-
ly over the years during the existence of
the small-block Fords-from the perfor-
mance-oriented high-performance 289
with its four-barrel carburetor and
manual choke to some of the later emis-
sions and mileage-oriented two-barrel
equipped 302s and 351s. Regardless
of the engine, most use a spacer between
the carburetor and the intake mani-
fold. This insulates the carburetor from
the intake manifold and provides an inlet
for the PCV system into the engine's
induction system. Install a gasket on the
manifold followed by the spacer and then
another gasket. You can now position the
carburetor on the manifold, or spacer
and secure it with the four attaching nuts.
Go around the carburetor tightening each
one a little at a time until all are at the
correct torque. Don't exceed 15 ft. lbs.,
they are easily stripped. Progressively
tightening the bolts eliminates the pos-
sibility of breaking the carburetor flange.
Crankcase Ventilation-Hook up the lines
to the carburetor starting with the PCV
valve and hose. First check the valve.
Shake it and listen for a rattle. If it rattles,
the valve is OK to install. Otherwise, soak
it in solvent until it loosens up. Replace
it if it doesn't rattle after soaking. Plug
the valve into the valve cover, usually at
the right rear. Connect the hose from the
valve to the carburetor spacer. If you
have one of the earlier small blocks, the
crankcase portion of the PCV system ran
to the back of the intake manifold and
used a valve which spliced into hose.
These can be found on some of the 221s,
260s and pre-1966 289s. Those engines
not using a PCV system used a road-draft
tube instead. It replaced the PCV system
at the manifold and vented the crankcase
to the atmosphere. If yours is this type, I
suggest changing it over to the PCV
system because of the emissions aspect
and to keep the engine cleaner inside. It
will also get slightly better gas mileage!
The harmful fumes circulating in the
crankcase will be drawn into the combus-
tion chamber and burned rather than
contaminating the crankcase oil or venting
into the air.
Choke-If you have a high-performance
289, hook up the choke cable and adjust
it. With the choke knob all the way in,
clamp the cable conduit after securing the
cable end to the choke-plate lever with
the choke open. On the other hand, if
you have an automatic choke, connect
the heat tube from the right exhaust
manifold to the choke. Some engines
have another tube which parallels this
tube. Connect it to the tube coming from
the right-rear underside of the carburetor
base. This tube provides filtered air to the
choke heat tube at the exhaust manifold.
easy to cross-thread it. Just make sure the
144
tube is bent so it has a "straight shot" at
the choke. Not all engines, but some have
another tube which parallels this tube.
Connect it to the tube coming from the
right-rear underside of the carburetor
base. This tube provides filtered air to the
choke heat tube.
Carburetor Linkage-You will have either
a single rod connecting the carburetor to
the accelerator-pedal lever at the firewall
or it will go to a bellcrank with mounts
on the intake manifold and then a second
rod connects the bellcrank to the acceler-
ator. In addition, there is a rod which
parallels this one which connects the bell-
crank to the firewall. If you are puzzled
by this arrangement, it's to cancel the
effect of engine roll on the position of
the throttle. The latest linkage used is the
cable type. When a cable is used in con-
junction with an automatic transmission,
you'll also have a kick-down rod to attach
to the throttle-plate lever.
For attaching the simple lever-type
linkage, position the retaining clip over
the throttle-plate-lever hole first, then in-
sert the bent end of the rod in the hole.
You can now rotate the clip over the rod.
For the bellcrank type, mount the bell-
crank to the intake manifold and then the
rod to the carburetor unless you removed
the bellcrank from the engine compart-
ment rather than just rotating it up out of
the way. If this is the case, you'll have to
hook up the other two rods, also.
The final customer is the cable type.
Just insert the cable through the cable
bracket attached to the intake manifold.
Push it far enough so the end of the cable
conduit clips into the bracket. There'll be
a ball-pivot extending from the throttle-
plate lever. Push the end of the cable over
it until it clips into place. If you have an
automatic transmission, hook the kick-
down rod by slipping it over a pin on the
throttle-plate lever and retain it with the
clip you should've left on the carburetor.
The last thing to do with the throttle
linkage is to install the return springs.
Earlier rod types have a bracket at the
right-rear carburetor-mounting stud.
Attach the spring between. this bracket
and the zig-zag in the throttle rod. The
bellcrank type has its return spring on the
bellcrank itself. It should still be there
because you didn't have to remove it. The
cable type has one return spring as part of
the cable assembly and also uses an addi-
tional spring which hooks between the
throttle-plate lever and a bracket on the
left-front carburetor-mounting stud. In-
stall the spring between these two points.
Ignition Coil-Moun t the ignition coil to
the intake manifold or the front of the
left cylinder head. If your coil was origi-
nally mounted to the manifold, relocate
it to the head, or to the A/C bracket in a
vertical position. The reason for this,
particularly in hot climates, is that under-
hood temperatures reduce a coil's output
which usually results in coil failure. You
may have to modify the coil-mounting
bracket slightly so it will mount in these
other locations, but the extra effort now
will payoff later, particularly if you've
had recurring ignition problems.
Wiring Harness-Locate the engine-wiring
harness along the inboard side of the left
valve cover. Retain the harness in the
clips you've installed under the valve-cover
bolts and connect the leads to the oil-
pressure and water-temperature sending
units and to the ignition coil. If your car
has A/C, there'll be another wire separate
from the main harness which is routed
along with the main harness. This lead
operates the A/C compressor clutch.
Fuel Filter and Line-The biggest variation
you'll find in the fuel-pump-to-carburetor
plumbing is the type of filter your engine
is equipped with and its location. The
latest and commonest type threads into
the carburetor float bowl. Another is the
in-line type followed by the very early
cartridge type. Regardless of which one
your engine uses, install a new filter and
complete the line routing.
Set Number-l Cylinder on TDC-A dis-
tributor should be installed so it is in
position to fire the number-I cylinder.
This also requires that the piston in the
number-l cylinder be set on the TDC of
its power stroke. Remember, the number-l
TDC mar k on the crankshaft damper
passes the timing pointer twice for each
complete cycle, once between the exhaust
and intake strokes and once between the
intake and power strokes. The later is the
one you want.
There are several ways of determining
when a piston is at the top of its power
stroke, but I'm just going to discuss the
easy method. It doesn't require using much
more than your common sense. Start by
removing the number-l spark plug-that's
why I suggested leaving it loose earlier.
Put your thumb over the hole, then crank
the engine over. You should feel the com-
pression lift your thumb once every two
revolutions as the piston approaches the
top of its power stroke. Now that you
have a feel for it, bump your engine slowly
while keeping your eye on the damper. As
you feel your thumb beginning to lift,
the timing mark should be approaching
the pointer. When it's in sight, stop. Bring
the TDC mark within 10 of the pointer
and you're ready to install the distributor.
You can now reinstall the spark plug and
torque it 15-20 ft.lbs.
Installing the Distributor-With the engine
timed, you can now install the distributor.
To be able to "time" the distributor with
the engine, you need a way to determine
the position the distributor rotor should
be in to fire the cylinder 1. Use the dis-
tributor cap as a reference to mark the
distributor housing for locating the rotor.
Hook up your carburetor linkage and adjust it for wide-open throttl e. Don't forget the return spring An equalizer-type accelerator linkage connects
that goes between the tab (arrow) and the 90'-bend i n the link. Also check the choke-plate operation. t o the firewall (arrow). Equalizer-to-carburetor
It should be free. l i nk attaches directly above the f r ont of the re-
t ur n spring.
Mark the side of the housing with a grease
pencil in line with distributor-cap socket
1, then remove the cap. Th s will enable
you to locate the rotor in the position it
should be in to fire the number-one spark
plug at the right time.
Before installing the distributor, double
check to make sure there's an "O-ring"
installed on the base of the distributor
housing, then smear some oil on it. When
installing the distributor assembly, keep
Route the engine wiring harness along the First step i n the di stri butor installation pro-
inside of the l eft valve cover. Retain it wi t h cess-check number-I cylinder for TDC by ro-
clips under the valve-cover bolts. Mount the coi l tating pushrods wi t h crank set on TDC. If
vertically and make all the harnessconnections- pushrods are ti ght rotate crank 180' and
t o the oil-pressure and water-temperature send- recheck pushrods.
ers and the coil. If you have AIC, you'll have t o
mount the coil t o the front of the compressor
bracket.
the vacuum-advance can pointed forward
and start with the rotor pointed rearward.
The photo shows the outer tip of the rotor
is approximately one inch away from the
mark. Here's why: as the distributor-drive
gear engages the camshaft gear, the rotor
will rotate clockwise bringing the rotor in
line with the mark, providing you keep
the vacuum-advance can pointing straight
ahead. If the rotor doesn't line up with
your mark on the housing pull the distrib-
utor out far enough so you can turn the
rotor and shaft and try it again. A little
care here will ensure that correct timing
can be achieved without positioning the
distributor housing at an awkward angle.
If you have a high-performance 289
which uses centrifugal advance only,
meaning it doesn't have a vacuum can,
position the distributor housing so the
number-one cylinder mark is at the rear
and slightly t o the left. Also, the distrib-
utor-cap retaining clip should be to the
left of the water-temperature-sending unit.
When it's swung down toward the intake
manifold, it should clear the sending unit.
Oil-Pump Drive Shaft-One complication
you may run into is installing the distrib-
utor. In fact, I can be alnlost certain of it
unless everythng goes right for you.
Because the distributor shaft turns the oil
pump too, the shaft must engage the cam
gear as well as the oil-pump drive shaft.
This being the case, you'll probably find
that the distributor won't install com-
pletely into the engine on your first
attempt. It would be pure chance that the
oil-pump drive shaft will line up with the
mating end of the distributor shaft. As a
result, you'll have to bump your engine
over until the distributor engages the drive
shaft so the distributor can drop into place
Hook up your carburetor linkage and adjust it for wide-open throttle_ Don't forget the return spring
that goes between the tab (arrow) and the 90
0
-bend in the link_ Also check the choke-plate operation_
It should be free_
Mark the side of the housing with a grease
pencil in line with distributor-cap socket
1, then remove the cap _ This will enable
you to locate the rotor in the position it
should be in to fire the number-one spark
plug at the right time_
Before installing the distribu tor, double
check to make sure there's an "O-ring"
installed on the base of the distributor
housing, then smear some oil on it. When
installing the distributor assembly, keep
Route the engine wmng harness along the
inside of the left valve cover _ Retain it with
clips under the valve-cover bolts_ Mount the coil
vertically and make all the harness connections-
to the oil -pressure and water-temperature send-
ers and the coil. If you have A/C, you'll have to
mount the coil to the front of the compressor
bracket_
the vacuum-advance can pointed forward
and start with the rotor pointed rearward _
The photo shows the outer tip of the rotor
is approximately one inch away from the
mark _ Here's why: as the distributor-drive
gear engages the camshaft gear, the rotor
will rotate clockwise bringing the rotor in
line with the mark, providing you keep
the vacuum-advance can pointing straight
ahead_ If the rotor doesn't line up with
your mark on the housing pull the distrib-
utor out far enough so you can turn the
rotor and shaft and try it again _ A little
care here will ensure that correct timing
can be achieved without positioning the
distributor housing at an awkward angle_
If you have a high-performance 289
which uses centrifugal advance only,
meaning it doesn't have a vacuum can,
position the distributor housing so the
number-one cylinder mark is at the rear
An equalizer-type accelerator linkage connects
to the firewall (arrow) _ Equalizer-to-carburetor
link attaches directly above the front of the re-
turn spring_
First step in the distributor installation pro-
cess-check number-1 cylinder for TOC by ro-
tating push rods with crank set on TOC_ If
pushrods are tight rotate crank 180
0
and
recheck push rods_
and slightly to the left. Also, the distrib-
utor-cap retaining clip should be to the
left of the water-temperature-sending unit.
When it's swung down toward the intake
manifold, it should clear the sending unit.
Oil-Pump Drive Shaft-One complication
you may run into is installing the distrib-
utor. In fact , I can be almost certain of it
unless everything goes right for you_
Because the distributor shaft turns the oil
pump too , the shaft must engage the cam
gear as well as the oil-pump drive shaft.
This being the case , you'll probably find
that the distributor won't install com-
pletely into the engine on your first
attempt. It would be pure chance that the
oil-pump drive shaft will line up with the
mating end of the distributor shaft. As a
result, you 'll have to bump your engine
over un til the distributor engages the drive
shaft so the distribu tor can drop in to place
145
with some assistance. Return cylinder 1
to TDC and check t o see if the rotor and
the mark on the distributor housing line
up. If not, try again by lifting it out care-
fully and indexing the shaft one tooth in
the opposite direction it's out. You'll
probably have t o go through the oil-pump
drive shaft engagement procedure again.
Now that your distributor is in place,
you can come fairly close t o correct timing
before the engine is run by statically
timing it. To do this, turn the crank so
the pointer and crank damper indicate
the correct distributor advance-10"
BTDC, for example. Install the distributor
hold-down clamp and bolt loosely, and
then rotate the distributor housing clock-
wise, or against the rotation of the rotor
until the points just begin to open. The
ignition coil releases its voltage the instant
the points break contact, firing the spark
plug. As soon as you have the distributor
where you want it, secure the hold-down
Install your distributor after confirming cylinder 1 is on TDC of its firing stroke. As the L.,.. ibutor
gear begins t o engage the cam gear, you'll probably have t o bump the engine over slightly before it
engages the oil-pump drive shaft and drops into place. After your distributor is fully installed, set
your engine back on TDC of its firing stroke. The rotor should line up with the number-1 cylinder
mark (arrow) with the vacuum cam pointing forward. Clamp the distributor housing i n this position.
Install a set of new spark plugs after you've gapped them. Route the ignition wires according to your engine's firing order beginning with the number
one cylinder: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 for all 221, 260, 289 and 302 CID engines and 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-3 for the 351W. Using valve-cover clips t o hold the wires i n
place, route them neatly according t o their lengths. Cylinder 7 and 8 wires for all but the 351W should be separated i n the left valve-cover clip (arrows).
Separate the 3 and 4 wires i n a similar manner for a 351W.
with some assistance. Return cylinder 1
to TDC and check to see if the rotor and
the mark on the distributor housing line
up. If not, try again by lifting it out care-
fully and indexing the shaft one tooth in
the opposite direction it's ou t. You'l!
probably have to go through the oil-pump
drive shaft engagement procedure again.
Now that your distributor is in place,
you can come fairly close to correct timing
before the engine is run by statically
timing it. To do this, turn the crank so
the pointer and crank damper indicate
the correct distributor advance-10
BTDC, for example. Instal! the distributor
hold-down clamp and bolt loosely, and
then rotate the distributor housing clock-
wise, or against the rotation of the rotor
until the points just begin to open. The
ignition coil releases its voltage the instant
the points break contact, firing the spark
plug. As soon as you have the distributor
where you want it, secure the hold-down
Install your distributor after confirming cylinder 1 is on TOC of its firing stroke. As the distributor
gear begins to engage the cam gear, you'll probably have to bump the engine over slightly before it
engages the oil-pump drive shaft and drops into place. After your distributor is fully installed, set
your engine back on TOC of its firing stroke. The rotor should line up with the number-1 cylinder
mark (arrow) with the vacuum cam pointing forward. Clamp the distributor housing in this position.
Install a set of new spark plugs after you've gapped them. Route the ignition wires according to your engine's firing order beginning with the number
one cylinder: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 for all 221, 260, 289 and 302 CIO engines and 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-3 for the 351W. Using valve-cover clips to hold the wires in
place, route them neatly according to their lengths. Cylinder 7 and 8 wires for all but the 351W should be separated in the left valve-cover clip (arrows).
Separate the 3 and 4 wires in a similar manner for a 351W.
146
Bypass hose gets replaced regardless of how old
it is. Because these hoses are usually too long,
trim yours so it doesn't pinch closed when
installed.
ARMATURE
EACH 112-TOOTH
clamp. Later, when you get your engine
started, check the timing with a timing
light and readjust it if need be.
If your distributor is a '74-'78 breaker-
less type, a smiliar method works. How-
ever, rather than having the points to go
by, align one of the armature spokes as
shown in the sketch. Looking down on
the distributor, the rotor should be be-
tween the two rivets whch secure the
magnetic pickup when it is in the number-
1 firing position.
Thermostat Bypass Hose-Regardless of
age, I always replace the thermostat by-
pass hose for no other reason than it's so
much easier to do now than a month or
two years later. New bypass hoses are
longer than they need to be, consequently,
Statically time a solid-state distributor by you'll have to trim the excess length off
rotating the housing SO one armature vane lines
the ends. To judge how you911 have
up perfectly with the magnetic pickup as shown
i n the circle. Rotor should also be located
set t he hose the
midway between the -0 magnetic-pickup Water-pump and intake-manifold inlets
rivets. Drawing courtesy Ford. and mark it. Cut the hose and recheck it
for fit, then install it. If the hose isn't
Bracket has t o go back on A/C compressor
before it can be mounted t o the engine. With
compressor i n place, install power-steering
pump followed by . compressor's fixed-idler
pulley and bracket. To line up this pulley, make
sure you have spacer (arrow) between idler
bracket and power-steering-pump bracket.
Install top compressor bracket, being careful
t o install bolts under and behind the bracket.
Finish the job by installing compressor strut
which supports i t from the manifold.
Bypass hose gets replaced regardless of how old
it is. Because these hoses are usually too long,
trim yours so it doesn't pinch closed when
installed.
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY
ALIGNED WITH STATOR
ARMATURE
I
I
EACH 1/2TOOTH
ERROR IS EQUAL
TO 73/4 ENGINE
DEGREES TIMING
ERROR
Statically time a solidstate distributor by
rotating the housing so one armature vane lines
up perfectly with the magnetic pickup as shown
in the circle. Rotor should also be located
midway between the two magneticpickup
rivets. Orawi ng courtesy Ford.
clamp. Later, when you get your engine
started, check the timing with a timing
light and readjust it if need be.
If your distributor is a '74-'78 breaker
less type, a smiliar method works. How
ever, rather than having the points to go
by, align one of the arma ture spokes as
shown in the sketch. Looking down on
the distributor, the rotor should be be-
tween the two rivets which secure the
magnetic pickup when it is in the number-
1 firing posi tion.
Thennostat Bypass Hose-Regardless of
age, I always replace the thermostat by-
pass hose for no other reason than it's so
much easier to do now than a month or
two years later. New bypass hoses are
longer than they need to be, consequen tly ,
you'11 have to trim the excess length off
the ends . To judge how much you'll have
to cut off, set the hose alongside the
water-pump and intake-manifold inlets
and mark it. Cut the hose and recheck it
for fit, then install it. If the hose isn't
Bracket has to go back on Ale compressor
before it can be mounted to the engine. With
compressor in place, install power-steering
pump followed by ' compressor's fixed-idler
pulley and bracket . To line up this pulley, make
sure you have spacer (arrow) between idler
bracket and power-steering-pump bracket.
Install top compressor bracket, being careful
to install bolts under and behind the bracket.
Finish the job by installing compressor strut
which supports it from the manifold.
147
trimmed, it will kink and restrict proper
coolant circulation through the engine
when the thermostat is closed.
ACCESSORY DRIVE INSTALLATION
The degree of difficulty of installing
your accessory drive can vary from a five-
minute job t o the toughest part of the
engine installation. I'll treat the installa-
tion like your car is loaded and you can
simply delete those sections that don't
apply to your installation.
A/C Compressor and Power-Steering
Pump-Rather than treating the A/C com-
pressor and power-steering pump separate-
ly, I'll have to deal with them as a team
because they use common mountings-not
totally, but enough so one can't be
mounted without the other. This is only
true when you have both accessories.
Your A/C compressor should still be
hanging where you left it when removing
your engine-on the fender apron. Whlle
it's still there, install the mounting bracket
to the bottom of the compressor, the
big bracket. Make sure you use the
right bolts. They are the short 3/8-16
bolts with the integral serrated-face
washers. Ford terms these UBS bolts,
meaning uniform bearing strength. Make
sure you use the correct length bolts, in-
stall them carefully to check for "bottom-
ing." The very short ones are used to
mount the adjustable-idler bracket to the
compressor bracket. Torque these bolts
20-30 ft. lbs. You can mount the com-
pressor t o the left cylinder head. Torque
the bolts 23-28 ft. lbs. When initially
mounting the compressor you need an
accomplice to start the bolts while you
support the compressor. An A/C com-
pressor with its clutch is a little too much
for one guy to handle alone.
Next customer is the power-steering
pump and bracket assembly. It mounts t o
the A/C compressor bracket and to the
water pump. The bolts at the water pump
not only support the power-steering
pump, they also mount the water pump.
Torque the bolts at the water pump 15-
20 ft. lbs. and the one at the compressor
bracket 23-28 ft. lbs. One thing to watch
out for at this point is what looks like a
thick washer on one of the water-pump
bolts. I say "looks like" because it's
actually a spacer and not a washer and it
goes on the bottom power-steering-pump-
bracket-to-water-pump mounting bolt.
Leave it loose, it mounts even more!
A/C-Compressor Idler-Pulley Bracket-
Turn your attention back to the A/C
compressor. Install the bracket which
mounts the adjustable pulley. Three UBS
bolts mount this bracket, two on top of
the compressor and one which is effective-
ly hidden behind and under the bracket.
Don't miss this last one. Also, install the
clip for the compressor's magnetic-clutch
lead and the A/C specification tag under
the top-rear mounting bolt. Torque the
bolts 20-30 ft. lbs. and make certain the
bolts are short enough so they pull down
on the bracket rather than bottoming in
the threaded holes in the compressor
housing. If it's not already on the bracket,
install the idler pulley, but don't tighten
it yet.
Fixed Idler Pulley-Not all air-condition-
ing equipped engines use a back-side idler
pulley. This fixed pulley stabilizes the
belt to prevent it from whipping. If yours
has one, you can easily recognize it by its
bracket-it looks like a three-legged octo-
pus. This is because of the different planes
in which the bracket mounts as well as
the spread of the mounting holes. The
top leg mounts to the adjustable-idler-
pully bracket and the lower-inboard leg
to the water-pump bolt with the spacer.
Make sure this spacer goes immediately
behind the idler bracket, otherwise the
pulley won't line up with the other pulleys
and will result in excessive belt wear or a
belt which is constantly jumping its
pulleys.
A/C Compressor Wiring-To finish the ac-
cessory installation job on the left side
your engine, connect the compressor's
magnetic-clutch lead. Do it now because
it's easy to forget. You'll wonder why
your air conditioning won't work the first
time you try t o use it.
Air-Injection Pump and Alternator/Gen-
erator-Just like the A/C compressor and
power-steering pump, if your engine is
equipped with an alternator and an air
pump, they'll use common brackets.
However, unlike the A/C compressor and
power-steering pump, the position of the
alternator and air pump can be different,
depending on the year and model of your
vehicle. Because you should already have
your alternator mounted, you'll just have
to install the air-injection pump. If yours
is the type which mounts above the alter-
nator, it'll be a little easier just because of
the easier access. Regardless of the relative
positions of the two units, the air pump
mounts off the alternator pivot and is
supported on the opposite side by an ad-
justable arm similar to that used for the
alternator. Mount the air pump, but don't
tighten it up yet. Route the air-pump
hoses and mount the bypass valve if there
are provisions for doing do. Bypass valves
used with air pumps mounted above the
alternator are usually supported by their
hoses. The others mount from a tab sup-
ported by the top thermostat housing
bolt. One hose runs from the air pump to
the bypass valve, but one or two go from
the bypass valve to the check valve/s. The
type using one valve is internally mani-
folded and locates its check valve at the
back of the engine whereas the others are
externally manifolded along the side of
each cylinder head. Before you install
the air-pump hoses, inspect and replace
them if cracks appear when you squeeze
them-in this case, they're about ready to
fail.
Spark Plug and Coil Leads-Turn your
attention back t o the ignition system.
Make sure the rotor is fully installed-all
the way down on the distributor shaft-
and install the cap and secure it with the
two spring clips. If they're not already
there, install the little plastic ignition-wire-
retaining clips. Starting with socket 1 on
the distributor cap, route the wires in the
engine firing order as you go around the
cap counter-clockwise, point the wires in
the general direction of the valve-cover
clip they will have to be routed through.
Remember, the firing order for all small
blocks except the 351 is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
The 351 order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. The
order for the wires in the right valve-cover
clip is 1 -2-3-4.
Because of the difference in firing
orders between the 351 and the rest of
the engines, the order for the 351 left
valve-cover clip is 5-6-7-8. The order for
the rest is 7-5-6-8. The reason for the odd
order for the left-hand valve-cover clip is
to separate the wires running to cylinders
7 and 8 which fire right after one another,
for all small blocks except for the 351
and 6 and 5 for the 3 5 1. This prevents a
possible misfire in the second cylinder
caused by induced current in the second
wire-number 5 in the 351 and number 8
in all the others. An induced current
occurs when two wires are close and
parallel for some distance. Current flowing
in one of the wires automatically induces
current to flow in the other wire, enough
to cause a weak spark and a misfire.
Spark-plug wires have different lengths.
Consequently, the easiest way to install
new wires, if you're doing so, is to install
the old distributor cap and wires. Now,
all you have to do is replace each wire
one-at-a-time by comparing the lengths
and duplicating the routings. However, if
you've discarded your old wires you'll
have to do a trial routing. Install the wires
loosely at the distributor cap. They are
difficult to get off if they are fully in-
stalled. After you are satisfied with the
routing, push down on the molded cap at
the end of each wire t o seat it in its dis-
tributor-cap socket. It's not easy because,
as the cap goes on, air has to be forced
out. As for the spark-plug end, push until
you feel the connector click into place,
then give it a little tug to see if it's on
all the way. Pull on the molded sleeve,
not on the wire. Don't forget the coil
lead. It's easy to install once the plug wires
are in place.
Heater Hoses-Install new heater hoses as
you would a radiator hose. If they are
over two-years old, replace them and use
the old hoses to determine the length of
the new ones. The heater-inlet hose is
routed from the intake manifold fitting
to the bottom heater-core tube. The
trimmed, it will kink and restrict proper
coolant circulation through the engine
when the thermostat is closed.
ACCESSORY DRIVE INSTALLATION
The degree of difficulty of installing
your accessory drive can vary from a five-
minute job to the toughest part of the
engine installation. I'll treat the installa-
tion like your car is loaded and you can
simply delete those sections that don't
apply to your installation.
A/C Compressor and Power-Steering
than treating the A/C com-
pressor and power-steering pump separate-
ly, I'll have to deal with them as a team
because they use common
totally, but enough so one can't be
mounted without the other. This is only
true when you have both accessories.
Your A/C compressor should still be
hanging where you left it when removing
your the fender apron. While
it's still there, install the mounting bracket
to the bottom of the compressor, the
big bracket. Make sure you use the
right bolts. They are the short 3/8-16
bolts with the integral serrated-face
washers. Ford terms these UBS bolts,
meaning uniform bearing strength. Make
sure you use the correct length bolts, in-
stall them carefully to check [or "bottom-
ing." The very short ones are used to
mount the adjustable-idler bracket to the
compressor bracket. Torque these bolts
ft. Ibs. You can mount the com-
pressor to the left cylinder head. Torque
the bolts ft. Ibs. When initially
mounting the compressor you need an
accomplice to start the bolts while you
support the compressor. An A/C com-
pressor with its clutch is a little too much
for one guy to handle alone.
Next customer is the power-steering
pump and bracket assembly. It mounts to
the A/C compressor bracket and to the
water pump. The bolts at the water pump
not only support the power-steering
pump, they also mount the water pump.
Torque the bolts at the water pump
20 ft. Ibs. and the one at the compressor
bracket ft.lbs. One thing to watch
out for at this point is what looks like a
thick washer on one of the water-pump
bolts. I say "looks like" because it's
actually a spacer and not a washer and it
goes on the bottom power-steering-pump-
bracket-to-water-pump mounting bolt.
Leave it loose, it mounts even more!
A/C-Compressor Idler-Pulley
Turn your attention back to the A/C
compressor. Install the bracket which
mounts the adjustable pulley. Three UBS
bolts mount this bracket, two on top of
the compressor and one which is effective-
ly hidden behind and under the bracket.
Don't miss this last one. Also, install the
clip for the compressor's magnetic-clutch
lead and the A/C specification tag under
the top-rear mounting bolt. Torque the
148
bolts ft. Ibs.and make certain the
bolts are short enough so they pull down
on the bracket rather than bottoming in
the threaded holes in the compressor
housing. If it's not already on the bracket,
install the idler pulley, but don't tighten
it yet.
Fixed Idler all air-condition-
ing equipped engines use a back-side idler
pulley. This fixed pulley stabilizes the
belt to prevent it from whipping. If yours
has one, you can easily recognize it by its
looks like a three-legged octo-
pus. This is because of the different planes
in which the bracket mounts as well as
the spread of the mounting holes. The
top leg mounts to the adjustable-idler-
pully bracket and the lower-inboard leg
to the water-pump bolt with the spacer.
Make sure this spacer goes immediately
behind the idler bracket, otherwise the
pulley won't line up with the other pulleys
and will result in excessive belt wear or a
belt which is constantly jumping its
pulleys.
A/C Compressor finish the ac-
cessory installation job on the left side
your engine, connect the compressor's
magnetic-clutch lead. Do it now because
it's easy to forget. You'll wonder why
your air conditioning won't work the first
time you try to use it.
Air-Injection Pump and Alternator/Gen-
like the A/C compressor and
power-steering pump, if your engine is
equipped with an alternator and an air
pump, they'll use common brackets.
However, unlike the A/C compressor and
power-steering pump, the position of the
alternator and air pump can be different,
depending on the year and model of your
vehicle. Because you should already have
your alternator mounted, you'll just have
to install the air-injection pump. If yours
is the type which mounts above the alter-
nator, it'll be a little easier just because of
the easier access. Regardless of the relative
positions of the two units, the air pump
mounts off the alternator pivot and is
supported on the opposite side by an ad-
justable arm similar to that used for the
alternator. Mount the air pump, but don't
tighten it up yet. Route the air-pump
hoses and mount the bypass valve if there
are provisions for doing do. Bypass valves
used with air pumps mounted above the
alternator are usually supported by their
hoses. The others mount from a tab sup-
ported by the top thermostat housing
bolt. One hose runs from the air pump to
the bypass valve, but one or two go from
the bypass valve to the check valve/so The
type using one valve is internally mani-
folded and locates its check valve at the
back of the engine whereas the others are
externally manifolded along the side of
each cylinder head. Before you install
the air-pump hoses, inspect and replace
them if cracks appear when you squeeze
this case, they're about ready to
fail.
Spark Plug and Coil your
attention back to the ignition system.
Make sure the rotor is fully
the way down on the distributor
and install the cap and secure it with the
two spring clips. If they're not already
there, install the little plastic ignition-wire-
retaining clips. Starting with socket 1 on
the distributor cap, route the wires in the
engine firing order as you go around the
cap counter-clockwise, point the wires in
the general direction of the valve-cover
clip they will have to be routed through.
Remember, the firing order for all small
blocks except the 351 is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
The 351 order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. The
order for the wires in the right valve-cover
clip is 1-2-3-4.
Because of the difference in firing
orders between the 351 and the rest of
the engines, the order for the 351 left
valve-cover clip is 5-6-7-8. The order for
the rest is 7-5-6-8. The reason for the odd
order for the left-hand valve-cover clip is
to separate the wires running to cylinders
7 and 8 which fire right after one another,
for all small blocks except for the 351
and 6 and 5 for the 351. This prevents a
possible misfire in the second cylinder
caused by induced current in the second
5 in the 351 and number 8
in all the others. An induced current
occurs when two wires are close and
parallel for some distance. Current flowing
in one of the wires automatically induces
current to flow in the other wire, enough
to cause a weak spark and a misfire.
Spark-plug wires have different lengths.
Consequen tly, the easiest way to install
new wires, if you're doing so, is to install
the old distributor cap and wires. Now,
all you have to do is replace each wire
one-at-a-time by comparing the lengths
and duplicating the routings. However, if
you've discarded your old wires you'll
have to do a trial routing. Install the wires
loosely at the distributor cap. They are
difficult to get off if they are fully in-
stalled. After you are satisfied with the
routing, push down on the molded cap at
the end of each wire to seat it in its dis-
tributor-cap socket. It's not easy because,
as the cap goes on, air has to be forced
out. As for the spark-plug end, push until
you feel the connector click into place,
then give it a little tug to see if it's on
all the way. Pull on the molded sleeve,
not on the wire. Don't forget the coil
lead. It's easy to install once the plug wires
are in place.
Heater new heater hoses as
you would a radiator hose. If they are
over two-years old, replace them and use
the old hoses to determine the length of
the new ones. The heater-inlet hose is
routed from the intake manifold fitting
to the bottom heater-core tube. The
Some heater hoser dra uswu LU rlaar rrlw auto-
matic choke. I f yours is this type, route the
hose from the intake manifold to the bottom
heater-core inlet between the choke and the
adjacent clip.
heater-outlet hose is routed from the top
heater-core'tube t o the water-pump inlet.
Route the heater-outlet hose through the
automatic-choke retainer on models that
provide one.
Miscellaneous Hoses-The last major job
is t o route the vacuum hoses. Again, the
complexity of this depends on the type
and number of accessories your car is
equipped with in addition to the emissions
devices used. Here% where your labeling
of the hoses and photos you may have
taken will be invaluable. Before you begin
installing the hoses, check them for signs
of cracking. If some have begun to crack,
replace all of them. A cracked vacuum
hose can be terribly hard to find and it
really complicates getting your engine to
run right.
Depending on your particular vehicle,
possible vacuum hoses you may have
from various vacuum taps at the back of
the intake manifold are for: power-brake
booster, automatic-transmission throttle
valve, heater and air conditioning vacuum
motors, the distributor-advance diaphragm
and emissions devices such as an EGR
valve (exhaust gas recirculation) routed
through a PVS (ported vacuum switch) in
the thermostat housing. The PVS meters
engine vacuum to the distributor and
EGR valve in some instances, but not all.
The scope and type of emissions equip-
ment and the vacuum circuitry is beyond
the scope of this book, so the correct
routing of your system depends on how
well you labeled or photographed your
engine during the removal process.
Engine Ground Strap and Automatic-
Transmission Filler Tube-Because of their
common location and difficult access,
install the engine ground strap and the
transmission filler tube to the back of the
right cylinder head. Having double-jointed
fingers is helpful. When attaching the
ground strap, make sure you install a star
washer between the ground-strap con-
nector and the cylinder head. The washer
ensures a proper ground between the
connector and the cylinder head, partic-
ularly in geographic locations where
corrosion is a problem.
Water-Pump Pulley and Fan-In prepara-
tion for installing the radiator, install the
water-pump pulley and the fan. To make
the job easier, locate the pulley on the
water-pump shaft and line up the pulley
holes with those in the water-pump flange.
If you have a fixed fan, loosely assemble
the fan, spacer, the four mounting bolts
and lock washers and locate this assembly
on the water-pump shaft and start the
bolts. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross
pattern to 10-15 ft. Ibs. You'll have to
grip the fan to prevent it from turning
while tightening the bolts.
If your fan is the flex-blade type, in-
spect the blades for cracks. Because of
the constant flexing, the root of the blade
eventually becomes fatigued t o the point
of cracking and breaking off. As a result,
this type of fan has been known to throw
a blade when the engine is running, so
remember, never stand in line with the
fan when the engine is running, particular-
ly when the engine is operating at hlgher
than idle RPM.
When installing a clutch-drive fan,
Fitting and installing some of the many possible vacuum hoses. Large hose supplies vacuum to the power-brake booster.
When fitting new hoses lay them out on the engine and cut them to length. One being cut connects distributor vacuum-
control valve (PVS valve) t o intake-manifold fitting behind carburetor.
Some heater hoses are used to heat the auto-
matic choke. If yours is this type, route the
hose from the intake manifold to the bottom
heater-core inlet between the choke and the
adjacent clip.
heater-outlet hose is routed from the top
heater-core tube to the water-pump inlet.
Route the heater-outlet hose through the
automatic-choke retainer on models that
provide one .
Miscellaneous Hoses-The last major job
is to route the vacuum hoses. Again, the
complexity of this depends on the type
and number of accessories your car is
equipped with in addition to the emissions
devices used. Here's where your labeling
of the hoses and photos you may have
taken will be invaluable. Before you begin
installing the hoses, check them for signs
of cracking. If some have begun to crack,
replace all of them. A cracked vacuum
hose can be terribly hard to find and it
really complicates getting your engine to
run right.
Depending on your particular vehicle ,
possible vacuum hoses you may have
from various vacuum taps at the back of
the intake manifold are for : power-brake
booster, automatic-transmission throttle
valve, heater and air conditioning vacuum
motors, the distributor-advance diaphragm
and emissions devices such as an EG R
valve (exhaust gas recirculation) routed
through a PVS (ported vacuum switch) in
the thermostat housing. The PVS meters
engine vacuum to the distribu tor and
EGR valve in some instances, but not all.
The scope and type of emissions equip-
ment and the vacuum circuitry is beyond
the scope of this book, so the correct
rou ting of your system depends on how
well you labeled or photographed YOllr
engine during the removal process .
Engine Ground Strap and Automatic-
Transmission Filler Tube-Because of their
common location and difficult access,
install the engine ground strap and the
transmission filler tube to the back of the
right cylinder head. Having double-jointed
fingers is helpful. When attaching the
ground strap, make sure you install a star
washer between the ground-strap con-
nector and the cylinder head. The washer
ensures a proper ground between the
connector and the cylinder head, partic-
ularly in geographic locations where
corrosion is a problem.
Water-Pump Pulley and Fan-In prepara-
tion for installing the radiator, install the
water-pump pulley and the fan . To make
the job easier, locate the pulley on the
water-pump shaft and line up the pulley
holes with those in the water-pump flarige.
If you have a fixed fan, loosely assemble
the fan, spacer, the four mounting bolts
and lock washers and locate this assembly
on the water-pump shaft and start the
bolts. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross
pattern to 10-15 ft. lbs. You'll have to
grip the fan to prevent it from turning
while tightening the bolts.
If your fan is the flex-blade type, in-
spect the blades for cracks. Because of
the constant flexing, the root of the blade
eventually becomes fatigued to the point
of cracking and breaking off. As a result,
this type of fan has been known to throw
a blade when the engine is running, so
remember, never stand in line with the
fan when the engine is nmning, particular-
ly when the engine is operating at higher
than idle RPM.
When installing a clutch-drive fan ,
Fitting and installing some of the many possible vacuum hoses . Large hose supplies vacuum to the power-brake booster.
When fitting new hoses lay them out on the engine and cut them to length. One being cut connects distributor vacuum-
control valve (PVS valvel to intake-manifold fitting behind carburetor.
149
Don't forget this bolt. I t S-=R.U~WJ ihe engine
ground and automatic-transmission filler tube
to the back of the right cylinder head-and
it's a tight area. Your engine ground strap may
attach differently. Just don't forget it.
there's no spacer, but the job may still be
a little more difficult because of t he way
the bolts are located behind t he fan and
clutch-drive assembly. The fan is not futed,
so you'll have t o wait until t he drive belts
are installed before you can torque the
mounting bolts. So for now, tighten them
snugly as you hold the water-pump pulley.
Complete the job after you've installed
and adjusted the drive belts.
Accessory-Drive Belts-Depending on the
accessories, your engine will be equipped
with from one t o three belts. Again, re-
place them if they are more than t wo
years old, but inspect them regardless of
their age. If you have more than one drive
belt, install them in the proper order back
t o front.
It's very important that the belts be
adjusted t o their proper tension. If one is
t oo loose, i t will slip i n t he pulley of the
accessory i t drives. If it happens t o be the
alternatorlgenerator drive belt, you'll be
plagued by a battery that seems t o run
down for no reason at all. Conversely, if a
belt is t oo tight, i t will overload all t he
bearings in the pulleys and shafts it drives.
This is particularly critical in t he case of a
water pump. They don't take kindly t o
spacer. Run fan bolts down and torque them 10-15 ft.lbs. Now install the accessory-drive belts.
Adjust them to a 112-in. deflection and secure the tensioners.
being overloaded. It shortens a water
pump' s bearing life drastically.
As for how tight a drive belt should
be, Ford specifies 140 lbs. tension in a
new belt and 100 lbs. in a used one. A
used belt is defined as one that has been
used for 1 0 minutes or more. Knowing
the correct tension and measuring i t are
t wo different matters. There is a belt-
tension checking tool, but it rarely finds
its way i nt o even the most complete tool
chests. If you happen t o have one, by all
means use it. I recommend using the de-
flection method for checking belt tension.
Push firmly on the belt (about 10 lbs.
pressure) and measure how much i t de-
flects. A properly adjusted belt should
deflect approximately 112-in. in t he
middle of an unsupported length of 14-1 8
in. Any more means the belt is t oo loose.
Less means it's t oo tight. For new belts,
the deflection can be slightly less, but
after it's run for a while, no less than 1 0
minutes, recheck i t . The only equipment
you' ll need for checkinga belt's deflection
is a straight edge and a ruler or something
indicating 1 / 2 in.
Depending on t he year of your car and
how it's equipped, there are three possible
ways to adjust a drive belt. The most
common, and the one you will have
regardless of the year and how your car
is equipped, is t he t ype requiring t hat the
accessory be rot at ed. All alternators and
generators and some power-steering pumps
use this met hod. To adjust a belt, rotate
the accessory with a pry bar or a large
screwdriver so t he belt will be held in
tension while you tighten the adjusting-
arm bolt t o maintain this tension. When
doing this, the pivot bolt and adjusting-
arm bolt should be loose. Just make sure
you don' t pry against something that can
be damaged, such as the reservoir of a
power-steering pump. Torque the bolts
25-35 ft. lbs. on the power-steering pump
and tighten t he alternatorlgenerator bolts
securely.
The second met hod is the A/C com-
pressor drive belt adjuster. Rather t han
rotating the accessory, an adjustable idler
pulley rotates against the slack-side of the
drive belt. Its adjustment is convenient
because t he 112-in.-square hole in the
pulley bracket accepts a 112-in .-drive
breaker bar. The guy t hat came up with
this good idea must have personally busted
his knuckles a few times using the previous
Don't forget this bolt. It secures the engine
ground and automatic-transmission filler tube
to the back of the right cylinder head-and
it's a tight area. Your engine ground strap may
attach differently. Just don't forget it.
there's no spacer, but the job may still be
a little more difficult because of the way
the bolts are located behind the fan and
clutch-drive assembly. The fan is not fixed,
so you'll have to wait until the drive belts
are installed before you can torque the
mounting bolts. So for now, tighten them
snugly as you hold the water-pump pUlley.
Complete the job after you've installed
and adjusted the drive belts.
Accessory-Drive Belts-Depending on the
accessories, your engine will be equipped
with from one to three belts. Again, re-
place them if they are more than two
years old, but inspect them regardless of
their age. If you have more than one drive
belt, install them in the proper order back
to front.
It's very important that the belts be
adjusted to their proper tension . If one is
too loose, it will slip in the pulley of the
accessory it drives . If it happens to be the
alternator/generator drive belt , you'll be
plagued by a battery that seems to run
down for no reason at aU. Conversely, if a
belt is too tight, it will overload all the
bearings in the pulleys and shafts it drives.
This is particularly critical in the case of a
water pump. They don't take kindly to
150
Match water-pump-pulley holes to those in waterpump-shaft flange before trying to install fan and
spacer. Run fan bolts down and torque them 10-15 ft.lbs. Now install the accessory-drive belts.
Adjust them to a 1/2-in. deflection and secure the tensioners.
being overloaded. It shortens a water
pump's bearing life drastically.
As for how tight a drive belt should
be, Ford specifies 140 Ibs . tension in a
new belt and 100 Ibs. in a used one. A
used belt is defined as one that has been
used for 10 minutes or more. Knowing
the correct tension and measuring it are
two different matters. There is a belt-
tension checking tool, but it rarely finds
its way into even the most complete tool
chests. If you happen to have one, by all
means use it. I recommend using the de-
flection method for checking belt tension.
Push firmly on the belt (about 10 Ibs.
pressure) and measure how much it de-
flects . A properly adjusted belt should
deflect approximately I /2-in. in the
middle of an unsupported length of 14-18
in. Any more means the belt is too loose.
Less means it's too tight. For new belts,
the deflection can be slightly less , but
after it's run for a willie, no less than 10
minutes , recheck it. The only equipment
you'll need for checking a belt's deflection
is a straight edge and a ruler or something
indica ting 1/2 in .
Depending on the year of your car and
how it's equipped , there are three possible
ways to adjust a drive belt. The most
common, and the one you will have
regardless of the year and how your car
is equipped, is the type requiring that the
accessory be rotated. All alternators and
generators and some power-steering pumps
use this method. To adjust a belt, rotate
the accessory with a pry bar or a large
screwdriver so the belt will be held in
tension while you tighten the adjusting-
arm bolt to maintain this tension. When
doing this, the pivot bolt and adjusting-
arm bolt should be loose. Just make sure
you don't pry against sometillng that can
be damaged , such as the reservoir of a
power-steering pump. Torque the bolts
25-35 ft. Ibs. on the power-steering pump
and tighten the alternator/generator bolts
securely.
The second method is the A/C com-
pressor drive belt adjuster. Rather than
rotating the accessory, an adjustable idler
pulley rotates against the slack-side of the
drive belt. Its ad justmen t is convenien t
because the I /2-in .-square hole in the
pulley bracket accepts a 1 /2-in .-drive
breaker bar. The guy that came up with
this good idea must have personally busted
his knuckles a few times using the previous
C
R,,,..,. ,,.,,, ,..,..,,,d after tl,, .,,, ,,
laid back over fan and front of engine. With
radiator i n place, shroud can be installed t o i t.
method of belt adjustment. To adjust belt
tension, rotate the pulley bracket in the
clockwise direction with your 112-in.
breaker bar and secure the bolt in the
slotted hole. Check belt tension, then
secure the pivot bolt when you've reached
the correct adjustment.
The last met hod of adjusting belt ten-
sion is the ultimate when it comes t o the
present state-of-the-art. It's used for ad-
justing many of the mid-1970 and later
power-steering pump drive belts. Rather
than rotating the pump t o adjust belt
tension, the pump uses t wo brackets that
slide on each other. To adjust a belt using
this type, loosen t he three vertical retain-
ing nuts, clamping t he t wo brackets t o-
gether, then rotate t he nut on t he adjust-
ing stud which extends through the upper
bracket. Turn the nut clockwise t o tighten
the belt. Be careful when doing this, it's
easy to over-tighten a belt because little
effort is required as opposed t o the ot her
methods. When you've reached the correct
belt tension, torque the three clamping
nuts 3 0 4 0 f t . lbs.
Radiator and Fan Shroud-Before install-
ing your radiator, position the fan shroud-
if you have one-over the fan. If you don' t
do this, you'll either have t o remove the
fan or radiator again t o install the shroud.
Carefully lower the radiator i nt o place
and set it on the rubber pads if you have
the type that is mount ed in rubber, or
t o avoid rounding them off and don' t
over-tighten the'm-12 ft . lbs. is maximum.
You won' t be able t o use a torque wrench
here, but you should've developed a
"feel" for torque by now. Install the
upper and lower radiator hoses.
Engine Run-In Preparation-Prior t o the
initial starting and running of your newly
rebuilt engine, what you do now will en-
sure a long life for your engine. The first
30 minutes of running are t he most criti-
cal. The rules are, once the engine is first
started, i t should be kept running for 30
minutes, it must be well lubricated and
cooled. Lubrication is particularly critical
for camshaft break-in. If the cam lobes
aren' t drenched in oil during the initial
run-in, one or more lobes can be wiped
off. This means tearing your engine down
again, so I'm certain you don' t want this
situation. As for cooling. it is obvious
I
t hat an engine needs t o Yde cooled when
A dab of white paint on the damper pulley on
the proper advance mark shows up well under
running and your car be
the strobe light. Disconnect and plug any dis-
and not be getting full air-flow through
tributor vacuum lines when setting and checking the radiator. In addition. a new engine
your timing.
being run-in will develop more heat &an
Don' t forget the rubber seal when installing your
engine. Start wi th a new air-filter element, too.
start the mounting bolts through the
radiator flange if yours mount s solid. For
rubber-mounted radiators, install the
upper radiator bracket. On solid-mounted
radiators, install and tighten the remaining
mounting bolts. Now you can slip out t he
cardboard you used for protecting your
knuckles and the radiator core. If your
car is equipped with an automatic trans-
mission, remove the hose you used t o
connect the transmission cooler lines and
connect the lines t o the radiator fittings
at the bot t om or side tank for down or
cross-flow radiators, respectively. Use a
518-in. tube wrench t o tighten the nut s
air cleaner, otherwise dirt v .... ,, ..... , . , , ,, your
a broken-in engine. The reason for this is
friction. Tighter clearances will exist bet-
ween all moving parts. As your engine is
being run-in, you'll notice RPM will in-
crease as it runs with a given throttle set-
ting, meaning the engine is loosening up.
With these three points in mi nd, let's
take a look at how you can make them all
"happen."
Cranking an engine accomplishes t wo
things. The first is t o confirm that your
engine will build oil pressure within 15
seconds: 35- 40 psi with a standard pump
and up t o 60 psi with a high-volume
pump. If you have an idiot light, all you'll
Radiator being installed after the fan shroud is
laid back over fan and front of engine. With
radiator in place, shroud can be installed to it.
method of belt adjustment. To adjust belt
tension, rotate the pulley bracket in the
clockwise direction with your I 12-in.
breaker bar and secure the bolt in the
slotted hole. Check belt tension, then
secure the pivot bolt when you've reached
the correct adjustment.
The last method of adjusting belt ten-
sion is the ultimate when it comes to the
present state-of-the-art. It's used for ad-
justing many of the mid-I970 and later
power-steering pump drive belts. Rather
than rotating the pump to adjust belt
tension, the pump uses two brackets that
slide on each other. To adjust a belt using
this type, loosen the three vertical retain-
ing nuts, clamping the two brackets to-
gether, then rotate the nut on the adjust-
ing stud which extends through the upper
bracket. Turn the nut clockwise to tighten
the belt. Be careful when doing this, it's
easy to over-tighten a belt because little
effort is required as opposed to the other
methods. When you've reached the correct
belt tension, torque the three clamping
nuts 30--40 ft.lbs.
Radiator and Fan Shroud-Before install-
ing your radiator, position the fan shroud-
if you have one-over the fan. If you don't
do this, you'll either have to remove the
fan or radiator again to install the shroud.
Carefully lower the radiator into place
and set it on the rubber pads if you have
the type that is mounted in rubber, or
A dab of white paint on the damper pulley on
the proper advance mark shows up well under
the strobe light. Disconnect and plug any dis
tributor vacuum lines when setting and checking
your timing.
to avoid rounding them off and don't
over-tighten them-12 ft.lbs. is maximum.
You won't be able to use a torque wrench
here, but you should've developed a
"feel" for torque by now. Install the
upper and lower radiator hoses.
Engine Run-In Preparation-Prior to the
initial starting and running of your newly
rebuilt engine, what you do now will en-
sure a long life for your engine. The first
30 minutes of running are the most criti-
cal. The rules are, once the engine is first
started, it should be kept running for 30
minutes, it must be well lubricated and
cooled. Lubrication is particularly critical
for camshaft break-in. If the cam lobes
aren't drenched in oil during the initial
run-in, one or more lobes can be wiped
off. This means tearing your engine down
again, so I'm certain you don't want this
situation. As for cooling, it is obvious
that an engine needs to be cooled when
it's running and your car will be stationary
and not be getting full air-flow through
the radiator. In addition, a new engine
being run-in will develop more heat than
Don't forget the rubber seal when installing your air cleaner, otherwise dirt will be inhaled by your
engine. Start with a new airfilter element, too.
start the mounting bolts through the
radiator flange if yours mounts solid. For
rubber-mounted radiators, install the
upper radiator bracket. On solid-mounted
radiators, install and tighten the remaining
mounting bolts. Now you can slip out the
cardboard you used for protecting your
knuckles and the radiator core. If your
car is equipped with an automatic trans-
mission, remove the hose you used to
connect the transmission cooler lines and
connect the lines to the radiator fittings
at the bottom or side tank for down or
cross-flow radiators, respectively. Use a
5/8-in. tube wrench to tighten the nuts
a broken-in engine. The reason for this is
friction. Tighter clearances will exist bet-
ween all moving parts. As your engine is
being run-in, you'll notice RPM will in-
crease as it runs with a given throttle set-
ting, meaning the engine is loosening up.
With these three points in mind, let's
take a look at how you can make them all
"happen."
Cranking an engine accomplishes two
things. The first is to confirm that your
engine will build oil pressure wi thin 15
seconds: 35--40 psi with a standard pump
and up to 60 psi with a high-volume
pump. If you have an idiot light, all you'll
151
be able to do is check for the idiot light
to go out indicating pressure. The second
thing you're after is t o get fuel t o the car-
buretor and fill its float bowl/s. This will
ensure that once the engine has started,
i t will continue t o run. Your engine will
spin faster and there will be less load on
your starter if you remove the sparkplugs,
then replace them for starting.
As for the cooling aspect of the engine
run-in, t o make sure your engine is being
well cooled during all of the first 30
minutes, put your garden hose into ser-
vice. Fill the radiator with water, then
open the drain and adjust the water flow
from the hose to the radiator to match
what is coming out of the drain. This
ensures a constant source of cool water t o
the engine.
Engine Run-In-Replace the plugs if you
removed them and make sure the fast-idle
cam on the carburetor is in its fast-idle
position. Start your engine. Avoid letting
your engine idle at slow speeds. It should
idle for 30 minutes between 2000 and
2500 RPM. A new engine idled at low
RPM could ruin its camshaft due to in-
sufficient lubrication.
With the water running through the
radiator, start your engine. Don't be
frightened by the initial puff of blue
smoke and the clattering lifters. They
should both remedy themselves after the
first few minutes of running unless you
have the solid-liftered HP289 or Boss
302. Noisy lifters is one of the joys of
these engines-if you like that. Adjust the
idle if it's not right and keep your eye on
the radiator. When the thermostat opens,
the water level will go down as water is
drawn into the engine, consequently,
you'll have t o add more before the water
flow in and out stabilizes again.
If you have an automatic transmission,
the torque converter will fill with fluid
during engine run-in, lowering the fluid
level in the transmission. This will be
indicated on the dip stick, so add fluid
accordingly.
After running your engine for the 30
minutes, shut it off and connect your
timing light to the number-1 plug. Using
a box-end wrench, loosen the distributor
cap and disconnect the vacuum-advance
hose and plug its open end. Restart the
engine, but idle the engine down this time.
Point the timing light at the crankdamper
and pointer. Adjust the distributor for
proper advance and lock the clamp. Turn-
ing the distributor clockwise advances the
timing; counterclockwise retards it. Shut
the engme off and reconnect the vacuum
hose. BEWARE: When working around
the front of your engine while it is running,
the fan is just waiting to grab a shirt tail,
sleeve, cord or whatever to do serious
bodily harm. The same thing goes for
accessory drive belts and pulleys. Be care-
ful. Stay out of line with the fan.
Post Run-In Checks-After initial run-in,
shut the garden hose off and let the water
drain out of the radiator. When it stops
draining, shut the drain cock in prepara-
tion for refilling the radiator with perma-
nent coolant. Check your engine all over
for fluid leaks; gas, oil and water. If you
spot any, remedy them.
Because gaskets and hoses creep, or
relax when they are loaded and heated,
you should go over the entire engine and
retighten a few things. High on the list are
the intake-manifold bolts, heater-hose
and radiator hose clamps. While you are
at it, check the exhaust-manifold bolts
too.
Engine Coolant (should be anti-freeze)-
Regardless of the climate your car will
be operated in, water should not be used
as the sole coolant. If you use it as the
main coolant, rust intubitor must be
added t o prevent the interior of your
engine from being damaged. I believe the
best practice is to use anti-freoeze so yt ur
coolant will have at least 0 F (-18 C)
capability. This provides corrosion pro-
tection for your engine and raises the
temperature at which the coolant can
operate before boiling.
FiLl your radiator until it won't accept
anv more, then start the engine and wait
fo; the thermostat t o open. Have some
anti-freeze handy. The engine will begin
to purge itself of air, so youl l have to
keep an eye on the coolant-level in the
radiator. Don't forget the heater. TO fill
it, put the heater control on heat so it
opens the water valve if your heating
system is so equipped. Coolant will now
be able to circulate through the heater
core and hoses. When the coolant ceases
to go down and is free of bubbles, cap the
radiator. If you have the coolant-recovery
type system, fill the recovery reservoir
t o the indicated hot level. Install a new
radiator cap with the correct pressure
rating.
Air Cleaner-You should now be ready to
install the engine's crown, the air cleaner.
Make sure there's a seal on the carburetor
before installing the lower part of the air
cleaner. If t h s area is not sealed, dust and
dirt will enter the carburetor rather than
being filtered out of the air. If your
engine is equipped with an exhaust-mani-
fold heat duct or fresh air duct, connect
them. Install a new filter and put the top
on the filter. Secure it with the wing nut.
but make sure there's a seal under the nut
for the same reason as the seal between
the air filter and the carburetor. Connect
any hoses or wires your air cleaner as-
sembly may require, such as the PCV
hose.
Hood-You need to rustle up some help
t o install the hood. With the hood held
in place, run the attaching bolts in just
short of snug and adjust the hood to the
reference marks or drill holes you made
After completing your preliminary engine run-
ning, drain your cooling system and recharge
i t with a good mix of anti-freeze. I n addition
to its anti-corrosive qualities i t will also prolong
water-pump-seal life.
prior to removal, and tighten the bolts.
Close the hood t o check its adjustment.
It should fit the same as it did before re-
moving it.
Trial Run-Now, with the satisfaction of
having rebuilt your own engine, it's time
t o take it on its maiden voyage. Before
you go tooling out of the driveway, make
sure you've collected all your tools from
the engine compartment. Your wrenches
aren't going t o do you any good distribu-
ted along the roadside. Take an inspec-
tion trip around your car to make sure
you don't end up flattening your creeper,
or whatever may have been left under
your car in your haste to "see how she's
gonna run."
When taking your engine for its initial
run it's not going t o hurt it if you take it
up to highway speed, just avoid accelerat-
ing hard. Also, vary your speed. Drive just
long enough to get your engine up t o
normal operating temperature and stabil-
ized. Keep alert for any ominous sounds,
then get back home for a look-see under
the hood. Check fluid levels. Look for
any leaks that may have developed and
generally scrutinize the engine compart-
ment. After everything appears to be OK,
be able to do is check for the idiot light
to go out indicating pressure. The second
thing you're after is to get fuel to the car-
buretor and fill its float bowl/s . This will
ensure that once the engine has started,
it will continue to run. Your engine will
spin faster and there will be less load on
your starter if you remove the spark plugs,
then replace them for starting.
As for the cooling aspect of the engine
run-in, to make sure your engine is being
weJl cooled during all of the first 30
minutes, put your garden hose into ser-
vice. FiJI the radiator with water, then
open the drain and adjust the water flow
from the hose to the radiator to match
wha t is coming out of the drain. This
ensures a constant source of cool water to
the engine.
Engine Run-In-Replace the plugs if you
removed them and make sure the fast -idle
cam on the carburetor is in its fast-idle
position. Start your engine. Avoid letting
your engine idle at slow speeds. It should
idle for 30 minutes between 2000 and
2500 RPM. A new engine idled at low
RPM could ruin its camshaft due to in-
sufficient lubrication.
With the water running through the
radiator , start your engine. Don't be
frightened by the initial puff of blue
smoke and the clattering lifters. They
should both remedy themselves after the
first few minutes of running unless you
have the solid-liftered HP289 or Boss
302. Noisy lifters is one of the joys of
these engines-if you like that. Adjust the
idle if it's not right and keep your eye on
the radiator. When the thermostat opens,
the water level will go down as water is
drawn into the engine, consequently,
you'JI have to add more before the water
flow in and out stabilizes again.
If you have an automatic transmission,
the torque converter will fiU with fluid
during engine run-in, lowering the fluid
level in the transmission. This will be
indicated on the dip stick, so add fluid
accordingly.
After running your engine for the 30
minutes , shut it off and connect your
timing light to the number-l plug. Using
a box-end wrench, loosen the distributor
cap and disconnect the vacuum-advance
hose and plug its open end . Restart the
engine, bu t idle the engine down this time.
Point the timing light at the crank damper
and pointer. Adjust the distributor for
proper advance and lock the clamp . Turn-
ing the distributor clockwise advances the
timing; counterclockwise retards it. Shut
the engine off and reconnect the vacuum
hose. BEWARE: When working around
the front of your engine while it is running,
the fan is just waiting to grab a shirt tail,
sleeve, cord or whatever to do serious
bodily harm. The same thing goes for
accessory drive bel ts and puJleys. Be care-
ful. Stay out of line with the fan.
152
Post Run-In Checks-After initial run-in,
shut the garden hose off and let the water
drain out of the radiator. When it stops
draining, shut the drain cock in prepara-
tion for refilling the radiator with perma-
nent coolant. Check your engine all over
for fluid leaks ; gas, oil and water. If you
spot any , remedy them.
Because gaskets and hoses creep, or
relax when they are loaded and heated,
you should go over the entire engine and
retighten a few things. High on the list are
the intake-manifold bolts, heater-hose
and radiator hose clamps. While you are
at it , check the exhaust-manifold bolts
too.
Engine Coolant (should be anti-freeze)-
Regardless of the climate your car will
be operated in, water should not be used
as the sole coolant. If you use it as the
main coolant, rust inhibitor must be
added to prevent the interior of your
engine from being damaged. I believe the
best practice is to use anti-freeze so your
coolant will have at least 0
0
F (_18
0
C)
capability. This provides corrosion pro-
tection for your engine and raises the
temperature at which the coolant can
operate before boiling.
Fill your radiator until it won't accept
any more, then start the engine and wait
for the thermostat to open. Have some
anti-freeze handy . The engine will begin
to purge itself of air, so you1l have to
keep an eye on the coolant-level in the
radiator. Don ' t forget the heater. To fiJI
it, put the heater control on heat so it
opens the water valve if your heating
system is so equipped. Coolant will now
be able to circulate through the heater
core and hoses. When the coolant ceases
to go down and is free of bubbles, cap the
radiator. If you have the coolant-recovery
type system, fill the recovery reservoir
to the indicated hot level. Install a new
radiator cap with the correct pressure
rating.
Air Cleaner-You should now be ready to
install the engine's crown , the air cleaner.
Make sure there's a seal on the carburetor
before installing the lower part of the air
cleaner. If this area is not sealed, dust and
dirt will en ter the carburetor rather than
being filtered out of the air. If your
engine is equipped with an exhaust-mani-
fold heat duct or fresh air duct, connect
them. Install a new filter and pu t the top
on the filter. Secure it with the wing nut.
bu t make sure there's a seal under the nu t
for the same reason as the seal between
the air filter and the carburetor. Connect
any hoses or wires your air cleaner as-
sembly may require , such as the PCV
hose .
Hood-You need to rustle up some help
to install the hood. With the hood held
in place , run the attaching bol ts in just
short of snug and adjust the hood to the
reference marks or drill holes you made
After completing your preliminary engine run
ning. drain your cooling system and recharge
it with a good mix of anti-freeze. I n addition
to its anti-corrosive qualities it will also prolong
waterpump-seal life.
prior to removal, and tighten the bolts .
Close the hood to check its adjustment.
It should fit the same as it did before re-
moving it.
Trial Run-Now, with the satisfaction of
having rebuilt your own engine, it's time
to take it on its maiden voyage. Before
you go tooling out of the driveway, make
sure you've collected all your tools from
the engine compartment. Your wrenches
aren't going to do you any good distribu-
ted along the roadside. Take an inspec-
tion trip around your car to make sure
you don't end up flattening your creeper,
or whatever may have been left under
your car in your haste to "see how she's
gonna run."
When taking your engine for its initial
run it's not going to hurt it if you take it
up to highway speed, just avoid accelerat-
ing hard. Also, vary your speed. Drive just
long enough to get your engine up to
normal operating temperature and stabil-
ized . Keep alert for any ominous sounds,
then get back home for a look-see under
the hood. Check fluid levels. Look for
any leaks that may have developed and
generally scrutinize the engine compart-
ment. After everything appears to be OK,
Installing the hood by lining up the hinges t o the reference marks. Start
by installing the rear bolts first. Assuming your hood fi t before you re-
moved it, i t should fi t after i t i s reinstalled.
retorque the intake- and exhaust-mani-
fold bolts. You can now admire your
engine unless . . . if your engine is
equipped with solid lifters, you have one
more duty.
Mechanical-Lifter Hot-Lash Adjustment-
If you have the solid-liftered HP 289,
Boss 302, or have installed a solid-lifter
cam, you'll have to readjust the valves
in their hot condition. This is because the
growth of the valve-train components
as they heat up changes the valve lash-
and does so inconsistently. Consequently
valve clearances must be reset with the
valve train at its normal operating tem-
perature. The 0.022-in. cold setting you
made was an approximation, but not a
guarantee of creating the specified hot-
lash of 0.018 in. for all the valves, so
readjust them.
To adjust valves at their operating
temperature they must be operating. This
is hot and messy. To make it easier,
acquire some rocker-arm clips and a
0.0 1 7-0.020-in. go -no-go feeler gauge.
The rocker-arm clips fit over the pushrod
end of the rocker arms and prevent oil
from being thrown all over the side of
your clean, newly rebuilt engine, your
engine compartment and you. Besides
being messy, the oil is hot and will smoke
when it splashes on the hot exhaust
manifolds. Rocker-am clips, which clip
t o the rocker arms to divert the oil back
into the top of the cylinder head, are
available at most automotive parts stores
and hot-rod shops. Also, go-no-go, or
step-type feeler gauges are much easier
to use than the more common single-
thickness type, especially when you're
adjusting the valves while they are oper-
ating.
Before adjusting your valves you'll
first have to warm up your engine to
its normal operating temperature. A short
drive should accomplish this. After the
engine has been warmed up shut it off
and quickly remove the valve corners,
being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Tie the ignition wires up out of the way
and install the clips on the rocker arms.
Have your feeler gauge and a 518-in.
socket with a non-ratcheting handle
ready, then restart your engine. Work
from one end to the other head. If
you're using the go'-no-go feeler gauge,
it should slide freely between the valve
tip and the rocker arm on the 0.017-in.
thickness, but the 0.020-in. thickness
shouldn't fit at all when you've obtained
the correct 0.018-in. clearance. Remem-
ber, the valves are going t o be opening
and closing, so the feeler gauge will be
intermittently trapped between the valve
and the rocker arm between the time the
lifter is not on the cam-lobe base circle.
After going through all your valves, shut
your engine off and remove the valve
clips.
A tip is in order at this point. If you've
lived with an engine that's equipped with
a solid-lifter cam for any length of time
you'll know how often the vlaves must be
adjusted to maintain proper lash-about
every time your engine is due for a tune-
up, or every 10,000 miles. This can be-
come a nuisance after a while. The rea-
son for thls constant adjustment is the
valve-adjusting nuts back off gradually.
So to extend the amount of time between
adjustments install a jam nut like the Boss
302 on top of each rocker-arm adjusting
nut. This will prevent the valve lash from
changing due t o the adjusting nut turning.
You can use a standard 3/8-24 jam nut or
a sheet-metal Pal-nut like those used for
locking some connecting-rod nuts. Your
retorque the in take- and exhaust-mani-
fold bolts . You can now admire your
engine unless ... if your engine is
equipped with solid lifters, you have one
more duty.
Mechanical-Lifter Hot-Lash Adjustment-
If you have the solid -liftered HP 289,
Boss 302, or have installed a solid-lifter
cam, you 'Jl have to readjust the valves
in their hot condition. This is because the
growth of the valve-train components
as they heat up changes the valve lash-
and does so inconsistently. Consequently
valve clearances must be reset with the
valve train at its normal operating tem-
perature . The 0 .022-in . cold setting you
made was an approximation, but not a
guarantee of creating the specified hot-
lash of 0.018 in. for all the valves, so
readjust them.
To adjust valves at their operating
temperature they must be operating. This
is hot and messy. To make it easier,
acquire some rocker-arm clips and a
0.017-0.020-in. go-no-go feeler gauge.
The rocker-arm clips fit over the push rod
end of the rocker arms and prevent oil
from being thrown all over the side of
your clean, newly rebuilt engine, your
Installing the hood by lining up the hinges to the reference marks. Start
by installing the rear bolts first. Assuming your hood fit before you reo
moved it, it should fit after it is reinstalled.
engine compartment and you . Besides
being messy, the oil is hot and will smoke
when it splashes on the hot exhaust
manifolds. Rocker-arm clips, which clip
to the rocker arms to divert the oil back
in to the top of the cylinder head, are
available at most automotive parts stores
and hot-rod shops. Also, go-no-go, or
step-type feeler gauges are much easier
to use than the more common single-
thickness type , especially when you're
adjusting the valves while they are oper-
ating.
Before adjusting your valves you '11
first have to warm up your engine to
its normal operating temperature. A short
drive should accomplish this. After the
engine has been warmed up shut it off
and quickly remove the valve corners,
being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Tie the ignition wires up out of the way
and install the clips on the rocker arms.
Have your feeler gauge and a S/8-in.
socket with a non-ratcheting handle
ready, then restart your engine . Work
from one end to the other head. If
you're using the g o ~ n o - g o feeler ga uge,
it should slide freely between the valve
tip and the rocker arm on the 0.017-in.
thickness , bu t the 0.020-in. thickness
shouldn't fit at aU when you've obtained
the correct 0.018-in . clearance. Remem-
ber, the valves are going to be opening
and closing, so the feeler gauge will be
intermittently trapped between the valve
and the rocY.:er arm between the time the
lifter is not on the cam-lobe base circle.
After going through all your valves , shut
your engine off and remove the valve
clips.
A tip is in order at this point. If you've
lived with an engine that's equipped with
a solid-lifter cam for any length of time
you'll know how often the vlaves must be
adjusted to maintain proper lash-about
every time your engine is due for a tune-
up, or every 10,000 miles. This can be-
come a nuisance after a while . The rea-
son for this constant adjustment is the
valve-adjusting nuts back off gradually.
So to ex tend the amoun t of time between
adjustments install a jam nut like the Boss
302 on top of each rocker-arm adjusting
nut. This will prevent the valve lash from
changing due to the adjusting nut turning.
You can use a standard 3/8-24 jam nut or
a sheet-metal Pal-nut like those used for
Jocking some connecting-rod nuts. Your
153
Ford parts man has them under part
number 4.521838. These are for locking
the HP289 connecting-rod nuts. Install
these snugly, not tight because they can' t
take much torque. Be careful not t o turn
t he adjusting nuts. Put a wrench on the
adjusting nut s t o prevent this from
happening.
Now you can reinstall the valve covers,
but first wipe any oil off the valve-cover
gasket surface. Reattach the ignition
wire clips t o the tabs on t he valve covers.
This should pret t y well but t on the engine
up. If you didn't use rocker-arm clips
you might want t o take a trip .to the local
car wash t o clean your freshly oiled com-
part ment .
While putting the first 200 miles on
I f your engine is equipped with a mechanical your engine, constantly check the fluid
cam you'll need eight rocker-arm clips like
levels-particularly oil-and l ook for any
these from Mr. Gasket@. They'll reduce the
leaks. K~~~ ,.hecking things in the engine
amount of hot oil that gets splashed on you and
your engine compartment when you're doing compart ment in general. any
hot-lash adjustments. problems that might arise. Don't get
excited if your engine uses a little oil,
particularly if you've used chrome piston
rings. Just keep the oil level up and
change the oil and filter after the first
500 miles. Make t he first miles easy ones
and avoid operating your vehicle at
sustained or steady speeds. Keep varying
t he speed. Avoid accelerating hard.
Follow these rules and it will pay off in
a longer lasting engine. After you've put
200-300 miles on your engine, take your
car or truck t o a tune-up shop-one that
specializes only in tune-ups-and have
your engine expertly tuned. Now, your
engine will not only be well broken i n,
it will perform at its peak efficiency. For
more information on engine tuning see
the next chapter.
154
If your engine is equipped with a mechanical
cam you'll need eight rockerarm clips like
these from Mr. Gasket. They'll reduce the
amount of hot oil that gets splashed on you and
your engine compartment when you're doing
hotlash adjustments.
Ford parts man has them under part
number 45218S8. These are for locking
the HP289 connecting-rod nuts. Install
these snugly, not tight because they can't
take much torque. Be careful not to turn
the adjusting nu ts. Put a wrench on the
adjusting nuts to prevent this from
happening.
Now you can reinstall the valve covers,
but first wipe any oil off the valvecover
gasket surface. Reattach the ignition
wire clips to the tabs on the valve covers.
This should pretty well button the engine
up. If you didn't use rockerarm clips
you might want to take a trip to the local
car wash to clean your freshly oiled com-
partment.
While putting the first 200 miles on
your engine, constantly check the fluid
levels-particularly oil-and look for any
leaks. Keep checking things in the engine
compartment in general. Correct any
problems that might arise. Don't get
excited if your engine uses a little oil,
particularly if you've used chrome piston
rings . Just keep the oil level up and
change the oil an d filter after the first
500 miles. Make the first miles easy ones
and avoid operating your vehicle at
sustained or steady speeds. Keep varying
the speed . Avoid accelerating hard.
Follow these rules and it will payoff in
a longer lasting engine. After you've put
200-300 miles on your engine, take your
car or truck to a tune-up shop-one that
specializes only in tune-ups-and have
your engine expertly tuned. Now, your
engine will not only be well broken in,
it will perform at its peak efficiency . For
more information on engine tuning see
the next chapter.
Tuneup 10
* Front quarter section of a '65 289 using pushrod-guided rocker
arms, detting the most from the interial parts of your newly
rebuilt engine requires that i t be properly tuned. Photo courtesy
Ford.
After putting a few hundred miles on
your newly rebuilt engine you should
have it professionally tuned so it will
provide you with peak performance. Even
with the most complete tune-up set you're
not going t o be able to do much more
than set distributor dwell, initial timing,
check point resistance, total advance
and set your carburetor's automatic choke
and idle settings. This is particularly true
with the later engines using electronic
ignitions and complex emissions systems.
Remember, you should not only be tun-
ing for performance but for minimum
emissions. The biggest polluters on the
roads are vehicles which have untuned or
improperly tuned engines. Typically, these
cars do not perform as well as they could
and they do not run as economically as
they should.
PERFORMANCE AND EMISSIONS
TUNING
The cost of a complete professional
tune-up should range from $25 to $75
depending on the work required. The cost
t o you should be at the low end of the
scale if you've done a proper job of re-
building your engine.
The type of tune-up equipment t o
tune an engine depends on how it's built
and equipped. For instance, if you re-
built your engine t o original specifica-
tions an electronic engine analyzer can be
used. This will ensure your engine will
perform at least as well as when it was
new. However, if you modified your
engine such a's installing a different carn-
shaft, changing the carburetion system,
ignition system or exhaust system your
engine must be recalibrated for it to ob-
tain maximum performance. The only
way of doing this is t o tune it while its
performance can be "seen" on a chassis
dynamometer. The rear wheels of the car
or truck drive rolls that are set flush in
the garage floor. These rolls are adjusted
t o simulate the load the vehicle would
"see" on the road. Therefore, the chassis
dynamometer permits an engine's func-
tions t o be monitored while it is operat-
ting under simulated driving conditions.
In addition, the dynamometer can be
used to determine the engine's power at
the drive wheels which means an engine
can be tuned for maximum power and
mileage and emissions. Beware of tuning
for full power at full throttle only. This
will compromise the more useful areas in
the "performance curve." Tuned correct-
ly, dividends in terms of power, fuel mile-
age and emissions will more than pay for
the initial tune-up investment and ensure
maximum pleasure and benefit from your
newly rebuilt small-block Ford.
After putting a few hundred miles on
your newly rebuilt engine you should
have it professionally tuned so it will
provide you with peak performance. Even
with the most complete tune-up set you're
not going to be able to do much more
than set distributor dwell, initial timing,
check point resistance, total advance
and set your carburetor's automatic choke
and idle settings . This is particularly true
with the later engines using electronic
ignitions and complex emissions systems.
Remember , you should not only be tun-
ing for performance but for minimum
emi$sions. The biggest polluters on the
roads are vehicles which have untuned or
improperly tuned engines. Typically, these
cars do not perform as well as they could
and they do not run as economically as
they should.
Tuneup
o
Front quarter section of a '65289 using pushrod-guided rocker
arms. Getting the most from the internal parts of your newly
rebuilt engine requires that it be properly tuned. Photo courtesy
Ford.
PERFORMANCE AND EMISSIONS
TUNING
The cost of a complete professional
tune-up should range from $25 to $75
depending on the work required. The cost
to you should be at the low end of the
scale if you've done a proper job of re-
building your engine.
The type of tune-up equipment to
tune an engine depends on how it's built
and equipped. For instance, if you re-
built your engine to original specifica-
tions an electronic engine analyzer can be
used. This will ensure your engine will
perform at least as well as when it was
new. However, if you modified your
engine such a's installing a different cam-
shaft, changing the carburetion system,
ignition system or exhaust system your
engine must be recalibrated for it to ob-
tain maximum performance. The only
way of doing this is to tune it while its
perfonnance can be "seen" on a chassis
dynamometer, The rear wheels of the car
or truck drive rolls that are set flush in
the garage floor, These rolls are adjusted
to simulate the toad the vehicle would
"see" on the road , Therefore , the chassis
dynamometer permits an engine's func-
tions to be monitored while it is ope rat-
ting under simulated driving conditions .
In addition, the dynamometer can be
used to determine the engine's power at
the drive wheels which means an engine
can be tuned for maximum power and
mileage and emissions. Beware of tuning
for full power at full throttle only. This
will compromise the more useful areas in
the "performance curve ." Tuned correct-
ly, dividends in terms of power , fuel mile-
age and emissions will more than pay for
the initial tune-up investment and ensure
maximum pleasure and benefit from your
newly rebuilt small-block Ford.
155
Checking horsepower where i t counts, at the rear wheels. Though increas-
ing in use, not all tuneup shops have chassis dynamometers. Even fewer
have dynamometers capable of checking full horse power,.^^ check first
if you want full horsepower readings.
Having your engine professionally tuned is the best way of getting the
most out of your newly rebuilt engine. If your engine was built to origi -
nal factory specifications, an electronic engine analyzer like the one
pictured is sufficient to do the job.
156
ORIVI"G S C ~ E O U t E SElECTOR
.",
.-
Checking horsepower where it counts, at the rear wheels. Though increas-
ing in use, not all tuneup shops have chassis dynamometers. Even fewer
have dynamometers capable of checking full horsepower , .so check first
if you want full horsepower readings.
This electronic engine analyzer is capable of moni tori ng ai rl fuel ratio from the'carburetor and di stri butor dwell at various engine RPM. Oscilliscope also
monitors performance of each spark plug as shown i n the scan.
Exhaust gases being analyzed. Comparing hydrocarbon and carbon-
monoxide outputs is an actual situation method of determining whether
an engine's fuel is being used effi ci entl y during the tuning process. This
device is valuable bot h when tuni ng f or economy and i n f or tuning for
reduced emission levels-an increasingly i mportant consideration.
OFFlClAL SHOP MANUALS
For additional information concernifig
your car or truck you should obtirin the
official Ford shop manual. Single-volume
manuals covering specific vehides were
printed for trucks prior to 1966 and for
cars prior to 1970. These single-volume
manuals were superseded by five-volume
manuals which cover almost all car or
truck lines. They are grouped ac~ordifig
t o the vehicle system-chassis, engine.
electrical and body. The fifth volume
covers general maintenance and Iubrica-
tloh. These manuals are available from
Helm. To order, or for additional infor-
matian, contact Helm, Inc., P.Q. BOX
07150, Detroit, Mlchigan 48207. Teie-
phone: (313) 865-5000. Make sure you
indude the model and year of your ve-
.hide when ordering.
This electronic engine analyzer is capable of monitoring air/fuel ratio from the' carburetor and distributor dwell at various engine RPM. Oscilliscope also
monitors performance of each spark plug as shown in the scan.
Exhaust gases being analyzed. Comparing hydrocarbon and carbon
monoxide outputs is an actual situation method of determining whether
an engine's fuel is being used efficiently during the tuning process. This
device is valuable both when tuning for economy and in for tuning for
reduced emission levels-an increasingly important consideration.
OFFICIAL SHOP MANUALS
For additional information ' concerning ,
yourcaror truck you shbuldobtainthe '
official Ford shop manual. Singlevolume '
' manuals covering specific ' vehicles were .
printed for trucks prior to 1966 and for
cars prior tol 970. These singlevolume
, manuals were superseded by fivevolume
manuals which cover almost all car or
truck lines. They are grouped according
to the vehicle'system-chassis, engine,
electrical and body, The fifth ,volume
" covers general maintenance andlubrita
C
tion.These manuals are available from
Helm. To order, or for additional infor
mation, contact Helm, Inc., P:O. Box '
07150, Detroit, Michigan 48207. Tele: '
I ', phone: (313) B 6 5 ~ 5 0 0 0 . Make sure you
inciudethe mo,deland year of your ve
' hiciewhenbrdet'ing.
"
157
A/C compressor 16, 147-148
A/C compressor install 147-148
A/C refrigerant 17
Accessory-drive belts 16, 150
Air cleaner 15, 151, 152
Air pump 34, 148
Alternator 18, 21, 141, 148
Alternator bracket 138
Anti-seize compound 1 10
Battery 12, 141
Bearings
edge-ride 61
inspect 47
also see types of
Blowby 3
Bore taper 45, 53-54
Bore-wear measuring
dial-bore gauge method 53-54
ring-and-feeler method 54
Boring 4 , 5 , 7 , 56-57
Bottom end 5
Cable
lifting 21 -22
starter 20-2 1
Camshaft 4
base circle 10, 64
bearing journal 64
inspection 63-64
installation 97-98
out-of-round 64
plug 49, 96, 97
profile 63
remove 47
runout 64
thrust plate 47, 48, 71-72, 98
Camshaft bearing
chamfer 94, 95
install 94-96
mandrel 50, 95
remove 50
Camshaft thrust plate
bolts 97, 98
Czrbon deposits 4, 5
Carburetor 143, 144
choke 7, 144, 145
heat riser 138
linkage 144, 145
remove 39, 40
Casting number 25-27
Change level 24
Clearance volume 32
Clutch 39, 136-137, 138
Clutch linkage
remove 18, 20
Combustion chamber 4
Compression height 30-32
Compression tester 7-8
Connecting rod 29-30
bearing 5
broached 30
center-to-center length 29
inspect 66, 69-70
journal protectors 45-46
numbering 45
reconditioning 69-70
spot faced 30
Coolant loss 8
Cooling lines
transmission 20-2 1
Compression ratio 32, 34
Core plug, see Freeze plug
Crankcase ventilation 143-144
Crankshaft
balance 29
bearing 99
bearing caps 102-1 03
bearing journal finish 59-61
bearing-journal radius 6 1
end-play 103, 104
front seal 110
inspection 58-62
install 98-103
nodularity 29
oil slinger 109
out-of-round 59-60
rope seal 99, 100
runout 61, 62
stroke 28, 29
taper 59-61
throw 29
Crankshaft bearings
install 100, 103
Crankshaft damper
install 108-1 1 1
key 108
remove 42, 43
repair sleeve 110
pulley 138
Cylinder block
cleaning 51 -52, 58
decking 56
identification 27-32
notch 56
Cylinder head
assemble 89-91
install 114-1 15
milling 78-79
remove 40-43
teardown 75-77
Cylinder pressure 7
Cylinder sleeve 55
Distributor 5, 6
armature 124, 125, 133
assembly 128-1 33
breaker plate 124, 125
breaker-point adjustment 132
breaker-point type 122, 124, 130-132
breakerless 122, 124-125, 132-133
bushing 124, 127,128-129
calibration 133
cam 125-126, 130-131
centrifugal advance 122, 124-1 25, 130
collar 127, 128-1 29
disassembly 124-1 28
dual advance 122
dwell 122-1 23
end-play 128-1 29
gear 126-127, 130
HypalonB sleeve 125, 130
install 144-146
magnetic pickup 124, 132-133
primary wire 124, 130, 132
remove 39
shaft 126-1 27, 128-1 29
solid state, See Breakerless
testing 122-1 24
vacuum control valve, see PVS valve
vacuum diaphragm 123, 124, 132, 133
Deck height 29, 32
Deck-height clearance 32
Detonation 4, 47
Diagnosis 5-10
Dial indicator 8, 61
Dial-bore gauge 53-54
Dieseling 5
Driveshaft
oil pump 73, 74, 1 1 1
Dwell tachometer 6
Dynamometer 4, 155, 156
Engine
balance 32
ground strap 149
install 139-1 53
mount 19, 21, 39, 138
plate 137-138
remove 1 1-23
run-in 151 -1 52
Engine block 27-28
Engine-mount bolt 19, 139, 141
Exhaust manifold 39
install 119, 120
Exhaust pipe 20, 142
A
AIC compressor 16, 147-148
AIC compressor install 147-148
AIC refrigerant 17
Accessory-drive belts 16, 150
Air cleaner 15, 151 , 152
Air pump 34, 148
Alternator 18,21,141,148
Alternator bracket 138
Anti-seize compound 110
B
Battery 12, 141
Bearings
edge-ride 61
inspect 47
also see types of
Blowby 3
Bore taper 45, 53-54
Bore-wear measuring
dial-bore gauge method 53-54
ring-and-feeler method 54
Boring 4,5,7,56-57
Bottom end 5
C
Cable
lifting 21-22
starter 20-21
Camshaft 4
base circle 10, 64
bearing journal 64
inspection 63-64
installation 97 -98
out-of-round 64
plug 49, 96, 97
profile 63
remove 47
runout 64
thrust plate 47, 48, 71-72, 98
Camshaft bearing
chamfer 94, 95
install 94-96
mandrel 50,95
remove 50
Camshaft thrust plate
bolts 97,98
Carbon deposits 4,5
Carburetor 143, 144
choke 7, 144, 145
heat riser 138
linkage 144,145
remove 39, 40
Casting number 25-27
Change level 24
Clearance volume 32
158
Clutch 39,136-137,138
Clutch linkage
remove 18,20
Combustion chamber 4
Compression height 30-32
Compression tester 7-8
Connecting rod 29-30
bearing 5
broached 30
center-to-center length 29
inspect 66, 69-70
journal protectors 45-46
numbering 45
reconditioning 69-70
spot faced 30
Coolant loss 8
Cooling lines
transmission 20-21
Compression ratio 32, 34
Core plug, see Freeze plug
Crankcase ventilation 143-144
Crankshaft
balance 29
bearing 99
bearing caps 102-103
bearing journal finish 59-61
bearing-journal radius 61
end-play 103, 104
front seal 110
inspection 58-62
install 98-103
nodularity 29
oil slinger 109
out-of-round 59-60
rope seal 99, 100
runout 61,62
stroke 28, 29
taper 59-61
throw 29
Crankshaft bearings
install 100, 103
Crankshaft damper
install 108-111
key 108
remove 42, 43
repair sleeve 110
pulley 138
Cylinder block
cleaning 51-52, 58
decking 56
notch 56
Cylinder head
assemble 89-91
install 114-115
milling 78-79
remove 40-43
teardown 75-77
Cylinder pressure 7
Cylinder sleeve 55
D
Distributor 5,6
armature 124,125,133
assembly 128-133
breaker plate 124, 125
breaker-point adjustment 132
breaker-point type 122,124, 130-132
breakerless 122, 124-125, 132-133
bushing 124, 127, 128-129
calibration 133
cam 125-126, 130-131
centrifugal advance 122,124-125,130
collar 127, 128-129
disassembly 124-128
dual advance 122
dwell 122-123
end-play 128-129
gear 126-127, 130
Hypalon sleeve 125, 130
install 144-146
magnetic pickup 124, 132-133
primary wire 124, 130, 132
remove 39
shaft 126-127, 128-129
solid state, See Breakerless
testing 122-124
vacuum control valve, see PVS valve
vacuum diaphragm 123, 124, 132, 133
Deck height 29, 32
Deck-height clearance 32
Detonation 4,47
Diagnosis 5-10
Dial indicator 8,61
Dial-bore gauge 53-54
Dieseling 5
Drive shaft
oil pump 73, 74, 111
Dwell tachometer 6
Dynamometer 4,155,156
E
Engine
balance 32
ground strap 149
install 139-153
mount 19,21,39,138
plate 137-138
remove 11-23
run-in 151-152
Engine block 27-28
Engine-mount bolt 19,139,141
Exhaust manifold 39
install 119, 120
Exhaust pipe 20, 142
Fan 14, 15, 149
Fan shroud 15, 151
Filler tube
transmission 18, 149-1 50
Firing order 10, 1 17, 146
Flexplate 39, 40, 137, 138
Flywheel 39, 137
Freeze plugs
install 90, 96
remove 41, 77
Front cover
install 108-1 1 1
remove 42, 44
Fuel filter 144
Fuel mixture 5
Fuel pump 18, 138, 139
Fuel-pump cam 44, 108-109
Gasket adhesive 93, 1 18, 1 19
Gauge
runout 86
small-hole 82
vacuum 6
Generator
install 148
remove 18, 21
Glaze breaking 55-56
Go-No-Go feeler gauge 1 17, 153
Graph
cylinder wear vs. operating
temperature 53
taper vs. ring-end gap 54
Ground strap 18, 149
Harmonic balancer,
see Crankshaft damper
Head gasket 1 14-1 15
blown 4 , 8
composition-type 79
shim-type 79
Heater hose 148-149
Hood 12, 152
Hot-lash adjustment 153-1 54
Hot tank 50, 51, 58
Hydraulic lifter
adjusting 116-1 18
inspection and cleaning 64-66
Identification
decal 25
tag 24, 25, 39
Ignition
solid state 6
Ignition coil 144, 145
Intake manifold
baffle 9 1-92
cleaning 9 1-92
install 1 18- 1 19
remove 40
Oil pump
assembly 73-74
inspection 73-74
install 11 1-1 12
remove 42, 44
Oil-pump shaft 1 10-1 1 1, 127
Oilite 62
Jack 19-20, 139
Knocking, see Detonation
Leak-down tester 7-8
Lifter bore, checking 56
Lifter
install 1 15
remove 48-49
wear 49
also see types of
Magilaflux@ 58
Main-bearing cap
installation 102-1 03
removal 46
Mechanical lifters
adjusting 116-1 17, 153-154
Molybdenum-disulfide 98
Noises, internal engine 4, 5
Oil consumption 3
Oil-cooler lines 142
Oil filter 142
Oil-filter adapter
install 96-97
remove 50
Oil-gallery plugs
install 96
remove 49-50
Oil pan
install 11 1-1 13
remove 42, 43
Oil pressure sender
install 138, 139
remove 18-19
Part numbers 26, 28
PCV system 143, 144
PCV valve 3
Performance 3
Pilot bearing 62
Pinging, see Detonation
Piston 30-32
con~pression height 30
cleaning 67-68
dish 3 1
dome 31
inspect 65-68
hur l i ng 55
nomenclature 65
skirt 5
Piston and connecting rod
assembly 70-7 1
installation 106-1 07
remove 45-46
Piston ring
compressor 94
expander 105, 106
filing 104
gap 104
install 105-106
pip mark 105, 106
twist 105
Piston rings 3, 5, 7
chrome 56-57
moly 54, 56-57
plain cast iron 56-57
Piston slap 5
Piston-to-bore clearance 55
PlastigageR 94, 100-1 01
Power-steering pump
install 148
remove 16
Preignition 4
Pressure plate, see Clutch
Puller 62
Pushrod 33-34, 11 5, 1 16
guide plate 33
length 34-35
PVS valve 120, 12 1
Radiator 14-15, 151
Release bearing 137
F Ignition Oil pump
solid state 6
assembly 73-74
Fan 14, 15, 149 Ignition coil 144, 145
inspection 73-74
Fan shroud 15,151
Intake manifold
install 111-112
Filler tube
baffle 91-92
remove 42, 44
transmission 18, 149-150
cleaning 91-92
Oil-pump shaft 110-111,127
Firing order 10, 117, 146 install 118-119 Oilite 62
Flexplate 39,40,137,138 remove 40
Flywheel 39, 137
P
Freeze plugs
J
install 90, 96
Part numbers 26, 28
remove 41, 77
Jack 19-20, 139 PCV system 143, 144
Front cover
PCV valve 3
install 108-111
K
Performance 3
remove 42,44
Pilot bearing 62
Fuel fil te r 144
Knocking, see Detonation
Pinging, see Detonation
Fuel mixture 5
Piston 30-32
Fuel pump 18, 138, 139
L
compression height 30
Fuel-pump cam 44,108-109
cleaning 67-68
Leak-down tester 7-8
dish 31
G
Lifter bore, checking 56
dome 31
Lifter
inspect 65-68
Gasket adhesive 93,118,119
install 115
knurling 55
Gauge
remove 48-49
nomenclature 65
runout 86
wear 49
skirt 5
small-hole 82
also see types of
Piston and connecting rod
vacuum 6
assembly 70-71
Generator
installation 106-107
install 148
M
remove 45-46
remove 18,21
Piston ring
Glaze breaking 55-56
Magnaflux 58
compressor 94
Go-No-Go feeler gauge 117, 153 Main-bearing cap
expander 105, 106
Graph installation 102-103
filing 104
cylinder wear vs. operating
removal 46
gap 104
temperature 53
Mechanical lifters
install 105-106
taper vs. ring-end gap 54 adjusting 116-117, 153-154
pip mark 105,106
Ground strap 18, 149 Molybdenum-disulfide 98
twist 105
H N
Piston rings 3, 5, 7
chrome 56-57
moly 54, 56-57
Harmonic balancer, Noises, internal engine 4, 5
plain cast iron 56-57
see Crankshaft damper
Piston slap 5
Head gasket 114-115
0 Piston-to-bore clearance 55
blown 4, 8
Plastigage 94, 100-101
composition-type 79
Oil consumption 3 Power-steering pump
shim-type 79
Oil-cooler lines 142 install 148
Heater hose 148-149
Oil filter 142 remove 16
Hood 12,152
Oil-filter adapter Preignition 4
Hot-lash adjustment 153-154
install 96-97 Pressure plate, see Clutch
Hot tank 50, 51,58
remove 50 Puller 62
Hydraulic lifter
Oil-gallery plugs Pushrod 33-34, 115,116
adjusting 116-118
install 96 guide plate 33
inspection and cleaning 64-66
remove 49-50 length 34-35
Oil pan PVS valve 120, 121
ins tall II 1-113
remove 42,43 R
Iden tification Oil pressure sender
decal 25 install 138, 139 Radiator 14-15, 151
tag 24, 25, 39 remove 18-19 Release bearing 137
159
Ridge 45
Ridge Reamer 45
Ring Expander 65, 66
Rocker arm 32-33
clips 153
design 32-33
install 115-1 16
nut 75-76
pivot 32-33, 75, 76
pushrod guided 32-33
rail-type 33-34
remove 41, 42
Rocker-arm rails
rail-to-retainer clearance 75-76
Rocker-arm studs
oversize 80-81
positive stop 3 5
screw-in 35, 76, 80-81
Rust proofing 58, 62
Sealer 93
Shop manuals 157
Slide hammer 62
Small-hole gauge 81 -82
Spark plugs 5-6, 138
gap 146, 148
Spray-jet tank 50, 51, 58
Starter motor 21, 140-141
Swept volume 32
Tables
camshaft bearing journal diameter 64
camshaft lobe lift 9
crankshaft casting numbers 28
cylinder-block casting numbers 28
cylinder-head casting numbers 28
cylinder head changes 36-37
deck height & bottom-end
compression components 3 1
engine identification code 24
head-bolt torque specifications 1 15
intake manifold torque specifications
119
intake manifold vs. cylinder head
milling requirements 78
pushrod lengths 35
taper vs. ring end gap 54
timing chain and sprocket applications
72
valve adjusting sequence 1 17
valve spring specifications 89
vehicle identification codes 26
Tachometer 6
Taper plug 81
Tappet, see Lifter
TDC
checking for 8, 144, 145
Test
compression 7
leak-down 7-8
power balance 6-7
vacuum 5-6
Timing chain 70-73
Timing chain and sprocket
install 108-1 09
remove 43-44
roller type 71, 73
wear 44
Timing-chain cover, see Front Cover
Timing gear, see Timing Sprocket
Timing light 5
Timing sprocket 44-45,70-73
Thermactor, see Air pump 34
Thermostat 120, 121
Thermostat bypass hose 147-148
Throttle linkage
remove 15
Throttle plate 7
Throwout bearing, see Release bearing
Thrust plate, see Camshaft thrust plate
71-72
Torque converter 21, 23, 134-135
Torque wrench 94
Transmission
filler tube 149
front seal 134-136
Tube-nut wrench 14
Tuneup 4, 155-157
Vacuum hoses 149
Valve
adjust 116, 117, 153-154
burned 4 , 8
grinding 85
inspection 83-85
install 9 1
lapping in 86-87 .
margin 85
reconditioning 85, 86, 87
Valve cover 4 1, 1 19
Valve guide 3 , 8 1 -83
clearance 82
inspect 8 1-82
knurling 82
Valve-guide insert
bronze 83
cast iron 83
screw-in 82, 83
thin-wall bronze 82, 83-84
Valve lifter, see Lifter
Valve lash 5, 116, 117, 153-154
Valve lift, checking 8-10
Valve seat
angle 85
grinding 85-87
runout 86
Valve spring
compressor 76-77,91
free height 87, 89, 91
inpsection 87-89
installed height 87-88, 89, 9 1
keepers, 76, 9 1
load 87-89
open height 88
rate 87
retainer 37, 76, 91
shim 88-9 1
solid height 88, 89
squareness 87
Valve stem caps 33, 76-77
Water pump
remove 39, 40
install 1 12
pulley 149
Windage tray 107, 108
Wrist pin 5, 67, 70
Wires
ignition 6 , 7
Wiring harness 144, 145
Ridge 45
Ridge Reamer 45
Ring Expander 65, 66
Rocker arm 32-33
clips 153
design 32-33
install 115-116
nut 75-76
pivot 32-33, 75, 76
pushrod guided 32-33
rail-type 33-34
remove 41,42
Rocker-arm rails
rail-to-retainer clearance 75-76
Rocker-arm studs
oversize 80-81
positive stop 35
screw-in 35, 76, 80-81
Rust proofing 58,62
s
Sealer 93
Shop manuals 157
Slide hammer 62
Small-hole gauge 81-82
Spark plugs 5-6, 138
gap 146, 148
Spray-jet tank 50, 51,58
Starter motor 21,140-141
Swept volume 32
T
Tables
Tappet, see Lifter
TOC
checking for 8, 144, 145
Test
compression 7
leak-down 7-8
power balance 6-7
vacuum 5-6
Timing chain 70-73
Timing chain and sprocket
install 108-109
remove 43-44
roller type 71,73
wear 44
Timing-chain cover, see Front Cover
Timing gear, see Timing Sprocket
Timing light 5
Timing sprocket 44-45, 70-73
Thermactor, see Air pump 34
Thermostat 120, 121
Thermostat bypass hose 147-148
Throttle linkage
remove 15
Throttle plate 7
Throwout bearing, see Release bearing
Thrust plate, see Camshaft thrust plate
71-72
Torque converter 21 , 23, 134-135
Torque wrench 94
Transmission
filler tube 149
fron t seal 134-136
Tube-nut wrench 14
Tuneup 4,155-157
camshaft bearing journal diameter 64 V
camshaft lobe lift 9
crankshaft casting numbers 28
cylinder-block casting numbers 28
cylinder-head casting numbers 28
cylinder head changes 36-37
deck height & bottom-end
compression components 31
engine identification code 24
head-bolt torque specifications 115
intake manifold torque specifications
119
intake manifold vs. cylinder head
milling requirements 78
pushrod lengths 35
taper vs. ring end gap 54
timing chain and sprocket applications
72
valve adjusting sequence 117
valve spring specifications 89
vehicle identification codes 26
Tachometer 6
Taper plug 81
160
Vacuum hoses 149
Valve
adjust 116, 117, 153-154
burned 4, 8
grinding 85
inspection 83-85
install 91
lapping in 86-87
margin 85
reconditioning 85, 86, 87
Valve cover 41,119
Valve guide 3, 81-83
clearance 82
inspect 81-82
knurling 82
Valve-guide insert
bronze 83
cast iron 83
screw-in 82,83
thin-wall bronze 82,83-84
Valve lifter, see Lifter
Valve lash 5, 116, 117, 153-154
Valve lift, checking 8-10
Valve seat
angle 85
grinding 85-87
runout 86
Valve spring
compressor 76-77, 91
free height 87,89,91
inpsection 87 -89
installed height 87-88, 89,91
keepers, 76, 91
load 87-89
open height 88
rate 87
retainer 37, 76, 91
shim 88-91
solid height 88, 89
squareness 87
Valve stem caps 33, 76-77
w
Water pump
remove 39,40
install 112
pulley 149
Windage tray 107, 108
Wrist pin 5,67,70
Wires
ignition 6,7
Wiring harness 144, 145
9-7543211710135834
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How to
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How to
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How to
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Off Road Handbook
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01
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478 56891

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How to ffnd out what needs fixing, How'to remqve engine, t&r do1

and inspbct for wear, repair 6 mandiBcin,

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