Piston, Rings, and Wrist Pin

The piston converts the potential energy of the fuel into the kinetic energy that turns the crankshaft. The piston is a cylindrical shaped hollow part that moves up and down inside the engine's cylinder. It has grooves around its perimeter near the top where rings are placed. The piston fits snugly in the cylinder. The piston rings are used to ensure a snug "air tight" fit. The wrist pin connects the piston to the connecting rod. Pistons are made of aluminum, because it is light and a good heat conductor. The piston head or "crown" is the top surface against which the explosive force is exerted. It may be flat, concave, convex or any one of a great variety of shapes to promote turbulence or help control combustion. In some, a narrow groove is cut into the piston above the top ring to serve as a "heat dam" to reduce the amount of heat reaching the top ring.

Removal Remove cylinders (36 En).

Mark pistons to ensure reassembly in original position and location. Remove piston pin retainers making sure they don't fall into crankcase. Heat pistons to approx 80 deg C (175 deg F) using electric piston heater.

Using the piston pin mandrel, drive piston pins out and removes pistons. Remove piston rings (if necessary) using a piston ring expander. To avoid breaking or bending the piston rings expand! These as little as possible, keeping rings close to the piston body.

Install pistons in reversed order of the above by noting the following points:

Connecting rods must be in proper alignment.

Clean pistons. Remove carbon deposits from piston top and piston ring grooves without scratching the base metal. Signs of uneven contact or carbon deposits on one side of the piston may indicate poor connecting rod alignment. Check piston rings for proper condition, ring gap, and ring groove clearance. If not as specified, replace piston rings or pistons, as required.

Measure pistons. Size designation is stamped into each piston top. Measurements are accomplished as shown in the illustration (perpendicular to piston pin axis).

 Piston size groups are shown in tables under 40 En. Piston clearance at installation is 0.02 mm (0.0008 in). If the measurement of the piston and cylinder reveals a clearance approaching the wear limit, the piston and cylinder should be replaced with a set falling into the same size group. If the mating cylinder of a damaged piston does not show traces of wear or damage, it may be possible to replace the piston alone with one falling into the appropriate size (letter) group.

Fit compression rings and oil scraper.

Check piston ring gap. This is done by inserting the ring into the cylinder and pushing it down, somewhat. with a piston. then measuring gap with a feeler gauge. Applicable to all rings:

Ring gap 0.3 - 0.45 mm (0.012 - 0.018 in).

Stagger piston ring gaps so that they are approx. 120 deg apart.

Piston ring side clearance is specified in the Table of Tolerances and Wear Limits (page E 95).

Piston rings must be installed with a ring expander to prevent piston damage or ring breakage.

Piston rings must be installed in the piston so that the "TOP" marking on the ring faces up, i. e., towards the piston top.

Replacement of spark plugs

Never change your spark plugs without the engine being cold. Wait two hours after driving to let it cool off. Grasp the plug wire by the boot, give the wire a twist and cautiously pull the spark plug wire out of the end of the spark plug. Dont pull the wires themselves or you may damage them. TIP: changing the plugs one helps avoid mixing up the spark plug wires. Use either a bicycle tire pump or an air compressor and pump a few bursts of air to rid the spark plug area of dirt, dust or gravel. Alternatively, clean off the old plug and the area around it with a rag or small brush. These steps help prevent any foreign material from falling down into the cylinder when the plug is removed. Remove the plug by turning it counterclockwise with a spark plug socket and ratchet. Spark plug sockets have

rubber linings that prevent damaging the plugs ceramic case. Crack it loose, spin it out until its off the threads, and take it out by hand.

OK, time to set the gap of the new plug with a spark plug gap gauge (Remember the proper gap is specified on the engine specs decal underside of the hood). You can buy a gap gauge at your auto parts store. Slide the correct thickness wire or feeler between the inner and outer electrodes at the tip of the plug. The feeler will slide between the electrodes with a slight drag when the plugs are properly gapped. If the gap isnt right, slightly bend the outer electrode until you achieve the right gap. Ensure the outer electrode is inline over the inner electrode.

Next, have a look at the cylinder head threads. Are they in good condition, clean, and free of dirt? New spark plug

should freely screw into the cylinder head by hand. Any binding of the plug is an indication of debris or damage in the thread. TIP: lube the plug threads with a little grease or spray lubricant before you install them, this will make for an easier removal at your next spark plug change. Insert the new plug into the spark plug hole by hand and turn it clockwise until it's snug. After finger tightening the plug, firmly torque it with your spark plug wrench/socket. Be careful not to over-tighten the plugs. Reattach the correct plug wire to the new plug with a twist on the boot until it's firmly seated on top of the plug. You should feel and hear a click as the wire positively clamps onto the spark plug. Repeat all the steps for the other plugs. Even taking your time this job will probably take you less than an hour. And thats it for another two years or 30,000 miles!