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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ST. petersburg
April - May 2013

Spring festivals
Aurora Fashion Week, Dance Open and more

Happy Easter!

The proper way to celebrate it in Russia

16+
April - May 2013 No88 st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Contents
Restaurants
Russian, Caucasian, Italian, all this and more 27

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Foreword
A word from our editor 4 5 6 8

Nightlife 39 Bars, pubs and clubs how to stay out till 6 am Sightseeing
The essentials Hermitage Palaces and Parks  43 44 49 51

News
Whats new in the city

Shopping
What to buy and where 

Basics and Language


Some useful information

Expat and Lifestyle


NEW: Expat Experience Family friendly dining Religious Services  52 53 54

Culture and Events


Ballet, opera, concerts, exhibitions and sports

Features
May Holidays, hurray! Discover Kolomna and the canals  17 18 23

Getting around
Transport, tickets and more 55 Maps 56

Hotels
A fine selection of places to spend the night

NEW! Russia pages 60 Discover Moscow, Veliky Novgorod and Kazan

In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in more than 75 cities across the continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com.

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com April - May 2013

Foreword
April and May is a wonderful time to visit St. Petersburg: the snow packs melt, the frowns of winter turn into the smiles of spring, and cultural activity in the city carries on at a frenetic pace, all the while the number of tourists swarming in on the city centre is relatively small compared to the summer months. This two-month period hosts an almost unimaginable number of holidays and the second-most important state holiday period occurs in early May. We have described the most important holidays in a feature. We have once again highlighted the wonders of Kolomna, an area of St. Petersburg that many associate with great Russian writers such as Fyodr Dostoevsky, who set many of his stories and novels in this up-and-coming neighbourhood. This will be an especially fascinating place to stroll around once the ice melts. Additionally, starting with this issue we are inaugurating an expanded special section on cities and towns surrounding St. Petersburg, offering visitors a number of recommendations for enjoying the warming spring weather outside of the metropolis. We have significantly updated our restaurant section with many new entries in this issue. We sincerely hope that youour readers and our reason for beingenjoy your trip to St. Petersburg and we hope that our guide will help you find your way around and make new discoveries, whether you are a long-term expat or a first-time visitor!
Joe Crescente, Editor St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Mariinsky Second Stage to Open


Mariinsky II, as the second stage of the world-famous Mariinsky Theatre is known, is slated to make its premiere 2 May 2013. The construction on the building has been notoriously slow and most critics agree that it more resembles a modern office building than a world-class stage for opera and ballet, and is particularly out of place in St. Petersburg. However, this only adds to the intrigue surrounding this long-delayed structure that will feature a 2000-seat theatre with six stages and rehearsal rooms, as well as facilities for the companys staff. It has been designed by Canadian architectural firm Diamond and Schmitt Architects who won the competition with their plan in 2009. The projects estimated cost is over USD 618 million. www.mariinsky.ru

Legran Restaurant Opens


This French bistro recently opened in the Hermitage neighbourhood, and combines French and Russian cuisine in a roomy, well-lit, and well-designed basement resembling a wine cellar. A casual twist on fine dining, Le Gran sports a family-friendly attitude and organises many children-oriented activities such as cooking classes for kids on holidays and weekends. For more information see page 32.

Manifesta 10
The State Hermitage Museum has been selected to host Manifesta 10. Manifesta is a nomadic European Biennial of contemporary art, which changes its location every two years. It purposely tries to stay away from the worlds dominant art capitals, instead seeking to spread arts development in the fields of curation, experimentation, education, and production. St. Petersburg was selected, because of its critical intellectual and historical relationship with East and West Europe: a uniting principal that is also central to Manifesta, as the single roving European biennial of contemporary art. In 2014 Manifesta will celebrate its 20th anniversary, as it was founded to respond to the new social, cultural and political reality that emerged in the aftermath of the Cold War. The opening of Manifesta will coincide with the Hermitages 250th anniversary. www. manifesta.org

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Cover story
The bright eggs you see on our cover are of course Easter Eggs. Easter in Russia is one of the most important holidays. Like many countries in Eastern Europe, Russians celebrate this religious holiday with decorated eggs and special food and rituals. The Russian Easter egg tradition dates back to pre-Christian times when people saw eggs as fertility symbols. The Easter eggs are also used in a traditional Easter childrens game. Children roll their colored eggs down a hill and try to crack another players egg. Its a very funny game, you should definitely try it once (or at least see how they do it). You can find more information about Russian Orthodox Easter on page 17. Photo by Dreamstime.com. Editorial department
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia@inyourpocket.com russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, bonnie@inyourpocket.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Director Sales & Strategy Jerke Verschoor, jerke@inyourpocket.com OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket Published 6 times per year with supplements, No88, 01.04.2013, 90.000 copies Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl

Its now 21 years since we published the first In Greece Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Tbilisi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed ) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for IYP Guides by name. To keep up to date with all thats new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. The advertiser does not bear responsibility for the accuracy of advertising information. - : , 196084 - . . 25, . . . : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 : + 7(812) 448 88 64 : -, 188640, .., . c, ., 114 No 59-10 No. 2-6849 17.10.03 - . . 90 000 . No88. 01.04.2013

Russia, A Non-Smokers Paradise?


Russias status as a smokers paradise may be swiftly diminishing. President Putin recently approved a bill that will sharply limit the places one can smoke and will ban the advertising of tobacco products. The law called, On the protection of citizens health from tobacco smoke and the consequences of tobacco consumption, will begin to gradually unfold its restrictions beginning on 1 June this year. Smoking will be banned at all work places, state agencies, railway stations, public transportation stops, public beaches, parks, and even on stairwells in apartment buildings. Cigarettes will not even be on display in stores; one will need to ask for a list of products in stock. But that is just the first part of the bill. To go into effect 1 June 2014 is a smoking ban on longdistance trains, ships, hotels, cafes, restaurants, and bars. Depictions of smoking will also be limited on television and in films. The fight, Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev recently said, is with smoking, not smokers. Smoking claims roughly 400,000 lives every year in Russia. The bill is not without its critics who fear that the law is too strict and unfolding in too accelerated a manner, which could cause tensions in a country where smoking is so prevalent. But neither is Russia the only country in the region that has banned smoking so swiftly and fully: Ukraine passed a very similar law that took effect on December 16, 2012.

Circus Gets a New Leader


Perhaps the worlds most famous clown is in some way coming back to his roots to take over St. Petersburgs Circus on Fontanka. Vyacheslav Polunin, best known for Slavas Snow Show, a production that has had great success in New York, Vienna, Berlin, Moscow, and London, will take over as Art Director of the famous circus, which has recently fallen on hard times. Polunin promises to not merely take over the reigns, but completely transform the circus role in the city. Under his tenure, he plans to reform the management, completely renovate the premises, and propagandize and modernize circus art, by creating new events that will take the circus out of its stationary tent and into the street. www.circus.spb.ru.

Editors Joe Crescente, joe.crescente@inyourpocket.com Ksenia Elzes, editor.spb@inyourpocket.com Layout & Design Malvina Markina design.russia@inyourpocket.com Research Elizaveta Bolshanina research.spb@inyourpocket.com PR Ksenia Elzes, pr-russia@inyourpocket.com

Commercial department
Sales Manager Daria Fionova, daria.fionova@inyourpocket.com Evgenia Smirnova, evgenia.smirnova@inyourpocket.com To order issues Tanya Kharitonova sales.russia@inyourpocket.com

Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2013. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

Angleterre Cinema
A movie theatre has opened in the Angleterre Hotel with films shown on a daily basis in their original language with Russian subtitles (and not just English-language films), one of the few places in the city where this is possible. There are screenings all day long on weekends, and usually a couple of screenings in the evenings on weekdays. The schedule goes up about a week in advance. www.angleterrecinema.ru.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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April - May 2013

Basics and Language


Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from; Russky Standart, Diplomat and Zhuravly are pretty good. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 23:00 and 08:00.

Basics and language


Useful Phrases
Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da / Hello Zdrastvuite Goodbye Dasvidaniya Thank you Spasibo Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Please Pazhalusta I don't understand Ya ne panimayu I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Russian pa-russky Do you speak Vy gavaritye pa- English? anglisky? ? Help! Pomogitye! ! Go away! Ostavte menya! ! I need some help Mne nuzhna pomoshch I don't want Ya ne khachu I (don't) like it Mnye (ne) nravitsa () May I? Mozhno? ? Do you have...? U vas est? ...? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? ? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! ! More/less Yesho/menshe / Large/small Bolshoy/malenky / Good/bad Khorosho/plokho / It hurts! Bolno! ! Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Could you write it Zapishite , down? pazhalusta Toilets Tualet Stop here please Ostanavite , pazhalusta When? At what Kogda? Vo skolko? ? time? ? What time is it? Katory chas? ? Who? Kto? ? How do you say Kak skazat eto that in Russian? pa-russky? -? No problem Bez problem Of course Koneshno Let's go together! Davay vmeste! ! Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! ! Password Parol In the restaurant/bar Bill Please Shchot pazhalusta , I am a vegetarian Ya vegetarianets Dry/sweet (for Sukhoe/sladkoe / wine) (vino) () Red/White (for Krasnoe/byeloe / wine) (vino) () Set lunch menu Bizness lanch - Is this seat free? Mesto svobodno? ? 2 beers please Dva piva , pazhalusta (Non) smoking (Ne) kuryashchee () place mesto Table water Pityevaya/ / stolovaya voda Meat Myaso Nuts Orekhi I am allergic to U menya allergiya Very tasty! Ochen vkusno! !

Be on guard!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and dont speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33. The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

Pocket dictionary: Luzha


Luzha means pond, and it ordinarily seems like a boring spring word until you realize just how prevalent they are in April and May in St. Petersburg. Personally, we dont think that winter is over until these puddles dry up. It seems like the entire city of St. Petersburg is under water in April, so it might be best to bring snorkels and swimming goggles. Fortunately, we are exaggerating, but we do suggest you wear rubber boots if your itinerary will take you through any park, crossing streets, or walk down any sidewalk that has a slope to it. It becomes urgently apparent how much water has accumulated in the ice and snow of the city when the temperatures hover consistently above 0, and nature decides to empty its hibernating elements into the street.

Foreigner Prices
The foreigner price is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the real price. If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Health and Safety


Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than your average European city. Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads carefully. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. The citys water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.

Habits
When entering a Russian household, remember to take your shoes off as soon as you get inside. Usually your host will offer you slippers. In terms of greetings, men shake hands with each other on meeting and if youre a woman and you hold your hand out to a man, dont be suprised if it is not shaken but kissed. Chivalry is alive and kicking!

Mobile Phones
You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven-digits. It may be easiest to buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. A pre-paid card account starts from around 150Rbl and includes about the same moneys worth of calls. To purchase, you need to show your passport, visa and registration.

Customs
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the Customs and Currency Declaration Statement upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an experts report, either from the Rosokhrankultura (Russian Cultural Security Department), Ul. Malaya Morskaya 17, Open Mon - Fri 11:00 - 17:00 or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. Its illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Numbers
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 adin dva tri chetyre pyat shest sem vosem devyat desyat adinatsat 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40 dvinatsat trinatsat chetyrnatsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semnatsat vosemnatsat devyatnatsat dvatsat tritsat sorok 50 60 70 80 90 100 500 1000 2000 pyatdesyat shesdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysicha dve tysyachi

Bridges Opening Schedule


When the ice from Ladoga Lake has passed through the Neva River the bridges will begin their nightly up-anddown game. When that is exactly is anybodys guess, but usually begins in mid-April. Bridge Drawing Dvortsovy 1:05 - 4:50 Blagoveshchensky 1:25 - 2:45, 3:10 - 5:00 Sampsonievsky 2:10 - 2:45, 3:30 - 4:25 Grenadersky 2:45 - 3:45, 4:20 - 4:50 Kantemirovsky 2:45 - 3:45, 4:20 - 4:50 Troitsky 1:35 - 4:50 Liteiny 1:40 - 4:45 Birzhevoy 2:00 - 4:55 Tutchkov 2:00 - 2:55, 3:35 - 4:55 Bolsheokhtinsky 2:00 - 5:00 Volodarsky 2:00 - 3:45, 4:15 - 5:45 Alexandra Nevskogo 2:20 - 5:10 Finlyandsky 2:20 - 5:30

Queuing
It may seem improbable when confronted with the Russian populace enmasse inside the metro but outside public transport Russians adhere to queuing rules strictly. The modus operandi involves fronting up to the dispersed group and asking Kto pasledny? (Whos last?), to which someone will answer Ya (meaning me). Now all you need to do is wait for your turn.

Alphabet

Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you dont get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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April - May 2013

Culture and Events


Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a days hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and every night you choose.

Culture and Events


08.04 Monday

April events
04.04 Thursday

20:00 Morcheeba

Opera and Operetta


Apr 01, 04 02 02 03 03 04 05 Time Event Venue 19:00 Evening of Russian Romance SPO 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 Semyon Kotko MAT Un ballo in maschera MIT Iolanta MIT Pagliacci SPO Nabucco MAT Cio-Cio-San (Madame SPO Butterfly) 06, 11, 19:00 Evening of Italian Music SPO 13 10 19:00 Cavalleria rusticana MIT 12 19:00 Tosca SPO 13 19:00 La Bohme MIT 14 19:00 La Belle Helene SPO 16, 17 19:00 Don Giovanni MIT 17 19:00 Rigoletto IHT 19 19:00 Betrothal in the Monastery SPO 20, 21 19:00 Lelisir damore MIT 24, 25 19:00 Billy Budd MIT 28 19:00 The Queen of Spades MIT 29 19:00 The Nose MAT 30 19:00 Rusalka MIT 30 19:00 The Enchanted Wanderer MCH May Time Event Venue 03, 05 19:00 Manon Lescaut MIT 07 19:00 Eugene Onegin MAT 07, 26 19:00 La traviata MIT 08 19:00 La Bohme MIT 08 19:00 May Night MCH 10 19:00 Il tabarro. SuorAngelica. MAT Gianni Schicchi 11 19:00 Un ballo in maschera MIT 14 19:00 Pagliacci MIT 16 19:00 armen MAT 17 19:00 Iolanta MIT 19 19:00 Tosca MIT 21 18:00 The Legend of the Invisible MAT City of Kitezh and the Maiden Fevroniya 29 19:00 Rusalka MIT

19:00 Modern Blues Masters

Concert Halls and Clubs


Club A2 (A2) D-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya,
MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.cosmonavt.su Gorky Palace of Culture (GOR) Pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo. spb.ru Grand Philharmonic Hall (GPH) D-3, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www. philharmonia.spb.ru Jazz Philharmonic Hall (JPH) E-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www. jazz-hall.spb.ru Ledovy Dvorets (LD) Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. +7 (812) 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru Lensoveta Palace of Culture (LEN) D-1, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 346 04 38, www.lensoveta.ru Mariinsky Concert Hall (MCH) C-3, Ul. Dekabristov 37, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www. mariinsky.ru Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, www. bkz.sp.ru Saint Petersburg Opera (SPO) C-2, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru Sport Concert Complex (SKK) Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 21 64, www.spbckk.ru

Club Cosmonavt (COS) D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24,

tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm

E-3, Jazz Philharmonic Hall, Zagorodny pr. 27, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65. Three of blues most renowned performers unite to form the Modern Blues Masters in what promises to be a recipe for some delicious music. The legendary harmonica skills of Phil Wiggins, award-winning composer Guy Davis tuneful virtuoso guitar and the striking voice of Samuel James go back to the roots of acoustic blues: just some (incredibly talented) people, a couple of instruments and genuine feeling. Q Tickets 400 - 1,000Rbl.

D-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.morcheeba.co.uk. Over the years this cult 90s trio has had its fair share of ups and downs, but in 2010 returned to its original line-up of Paul and Ross Godfrey and vocalist Skye Edwards, and with it, to top form. Morcheebas music draws together elements of rock, pop, blues, trip-hop and much more to create mesmerising landscapes of sound and has won the band a devoted fan base, who will be eagerly anticipating the bands newest album to be released this year. In the meantime the band will be performing some of their more recent material alongside the classics that made their name. As ever, were promised a powerful and spellbinding show propelled by their charm and musical energy. Q Tickets 800 - 3,500Rbl.

Theatres
ogo 2, M Nevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, en.alexandrinsky.ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre (IHT) D-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru. Mariinsky Theatre (MAT) C-3, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre (MIT) D-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, M Nevsky pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, w w w. mikhailovsky.ru. State Theatre of Musical Comedy (MCT) D-3, ul. Italianskaya 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76

12.04 Friday 04.04 Thursday

Alexandrinsky Theatre (AT) E-3, Pl. Ostrovsk-

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. rockyleon.com. Born in San Fransisco, raised in Austria (calling both home), Rocky Leon takes change in his stride. In returning to Russia, the smiling, dreadlocked reggae -and-ska influenced beatboxer is making his broad Russian fanbase very happy. Using ukuleles, looping, and being no stranger to busking on the street, his playfully titled Little Clown gives an idea of the infectiously good-natured charm of his work. Q Tickets 500 - 1,500Rbl.

20:00 Rocky Leon

D-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.billysband.ru. Local favourites Billys Band, headed by Billy Novik, Anton Matezius, Andrei Ryzhik, and Mikhail Zhidkikh, tour Russia and the rest of the world constantly, so its a rare pleasure to get to see them perform locally. Playing a mix of jazz, blues, and rock (they call their mix Romantic Alco-Jazz), they have been popular locally and around the country since making their debut in 2001 when Billy was still working as a childs pathologist by day and musician by night. This will be an even more special concert than usual as it will double as the album release party for their new studio album, Kogda ya byl odin. Q Tickets 600 - 2,500Rbl.

20:00 Billys Band

13.04 Saturday

23:00 Trancemission

The Andreyev Orchestra


D-2, Imperial Hermitage Theater, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 575 55 29, www. andreyev-orchestra.ru. The Andreyev State Academic Orchestra is celebrating its 125th anniversary by giving a series of concerts, called We are 125, all throughout the spring. Vasily Andreyev, a composer of balalaika music, founded the ensemble in 1888 as the first orchestra of balalaikas, and he worked to development this and other folk instruments throughout his life. The cycle of concerts (10.04, 13.05) will feature music that has been written specially for the anniversary celebration. Q Tickets 100 - 500Rbl.

D-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 928 10 63, www.radiorecord.ru. Transmission promises a wave of trance this spring with its famous allnight trance rave. In previous years the event has attracted international DJs such as Paul van Dyck, Armin van Buuren and Above & Beyond. This year the headline act is the German trance project Cosmic Gate famous for their remixes for artists such as DJ Tisto, Ferry Corsten and Vanessa-Mae. They will be joined at the party by DJs Emma Hewitt (Australia), Jochen Miller (The Netherlands) and more. Q Tickets 700 - 2,000Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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April - May 2013

10

Culture and Events


XII Ballet Festival DANCE OPEN
Night of One-Act Ballets Three different short ballets by three of todays most attention-grabbing choreographers promise ballet as youve never seen it before. A hundred years on from the disastrous premiere of Stravinskys Rite of Spring and it has become one of the undoubted masterpieces of the ballet canon; this new choreography by Edward Clug is acclaimed for making something entirely new out of a work that has been the subject of quite a number of interpretations. Italian choreographer Jacopo Godanis Spazio-Tempo, set to music by 48nord, an experimental electronic acoustic band, in the words of the choreographer hopes to widen your mind. To end the evening is a setting to dance of Prokofievs Classical Symphony, one of the composers most recognisable works. Like the music itself, Yuri Possokhovs choreography is gracious and dotted with humour, more classical in nature than the other two ballets of the programme, but with original twists that betray its modern roots.

Culture and Events


24.04 Wednesday

11

14.04 Sunday

19:00 Djivan Gasparyan

D-1, Music-Hall, Alexandrovsky park 4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 92 01, www.jivangasparian.ru. The Peoples Artist of Armenia, composer-musician, and professor, is widely acknowledged as a living legend both within the country and worldwide. Specialising in the dukuk (woodwind/ reed instrument) of which he is regarded as the master he has collaborated with Brian Eno, Lionel Rihie and Peter Gabriel, and has lent his talents to 18 films, among them Hollywood blockbusters. Q Tickets 1,200 - 2,900Rbl.

20:00 Sunrise Avenue

Ballet
Apr 07 11, 12 12 13 14 14, 15 18, 19 26, 27 May 05 08 09, 10, 12 15, 16, 18 17 30, 31 Time 11:30 19:00 19:00 19:00 13:00, 19:00 19:00 19:00 13:00, 19:00 Time 11:30 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 Event Carmen Suite. LeCarnaval Le Corsaire Carmen Suite. Divertissement La Bayadre Cipollino (ballet for children) Anna Karenina Swan Lake La Sylphide Event Don Quixote The Sleeping Beauty Swan Lake The Sleeping Beauty Swan Lake La Bayadre Venue MCH MIT MCH MAT MIT MAT MIT MIT Venue MAT MAT MIT MIT MAT MIT

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. sunriseave.com. Finnish group Sunrise Avenue make no bones about the fact that they have always been aiming for world domination. Over a hundred rejections from record companies didnt dissuade the plucky bunch, who are now basking in the glory of gold and platinum singles throughout Europe. Its particular brand of tune-heavy euro-pop-rock with the occasional hue of something darker means that even if youve not heard it before youll find yourself humming by the second line and singing along by the chorus. Q Tickets 1,300 - 3,000Rbl.

19.04 Friday

20:00 Skunk Anansie

Gala History of Russian Ballet If theres one thing that Russian does well, its ballet. Russian composers have given the world many of its best-loved ballets, from The Rite of Spring to Swan Lake, and Russian ballet companies have become worldwide legends. This evening takes its audience on a journey through the illustrious history of Russian ballet and, with the help of archive videos, narration and todays top ballet stars will try and bring back to life great ballets of the past and masterpieces of Russian choreographers as they would first have been seen. Gala of International Ballet Stars DANCE OPEN A star-studded night of Russian and international ballets performed by no less than twenty different international troupes, including of course those of the Mariinsky and Bolshoi Theatres. The Gala promises to be a chocolate box of ballet giving a flavour of choreography throughout the ages; this year the focus is on innovative modern dance, though there will still be plenty of classical ballet on hand. Highlights include a fragment from Prokofievs Cinderella choreographed by Christopher Wheeldon, which appear for the first time in Russia at this gala, which will serve as the grand finale to the Dance Open International Ballet Festival. Apr Event Venues 19 - 20 Night of One-Act Ballets AT 21 Gala "History of Russian Ballet" BKZ 22 Gala of International Ballet Stars BKZ DANCE OPEN

D-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 363 33 33, www.skunkanansie.net. The legendary 90s rage-rock British band fronted by the dynamic Deborah Dyer (aka Skin) only reformed in 2009 after an 8 year hiatus during which some members pursued solo careers. Difficult to fully define, they could be described as everything from the generic alternative to the more suitably soulful funk-riot, and since reforming, have acted as support for Rammstein. The last London gig before they storm Russia is already sold out. Q Tickets 1,500 - 7,000Rbl.

Aladdin
19.04 Friday - 22.04 Monday 25.04 Thursday - 28.04 Sunday

Israel Film Festival 2013

20.04 Saturday

E-3, Avrora cinema, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 54, www.tourdefilm.ru. The Consulate of Israel presents the Festival of Israeli Cinema 2013 featuring a selection of films that will all be making their premieres in St. Petersburg. Every year Israel strengthens its position on the cinema world map largely due to its directors not shying away from filming universal pictures on the most vital themes of contemporary life. The main goal of the Festival is to elucidate recent tendencies in the development of Israeli national cinematography and demonstrate the diversity of its genres. The Festival is especially pleased to present The Exchange, which was shown at the 68th Venice Film Festival and Gods Neighbours, which was shown at the Critics Week at the Cannes Film Festival in 2012. Q Tickets 200Rbl.

19:00 Freddie Mercury: Rock Legend

Alexandrinsky Theater (AT) E-3, Pl. Ostrovskpr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya. Tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.danceopen.com Q Performances start at 19:00. Tickets 400 - 5,500Rbl.

Oktyarbsky Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Ligovsky

ogo 6, MNevsky pr.

Gorky Palace of Culture (DK Gorky), MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 943 84 20, www.spb.kassir.ru. Queens soloist Freddie Mercury once said, I wont simply become a rock star, but a legend. The hits of the band Queen form the basis of this new musical show, Legends of Rock: Freddie Mercury. The conductor of the symphonic IP orchestra, Igor Ponomarenko, states that the secret to the success of this show is that it is, for all that love the creative output of Freddie Mercury, we have given you a unique opportunity to not only hear his songs, but also see the performance of the White Ballet Company. There will be original choreography, dazzling costumes and the hits of Queen: Love Kills, The Show Must Go On and We Are the Champions, as performed by soloist of the Mariinsky Theatre, Larisa Yelina, and Honoured Artist of the Russian Federation, Anatoly Tukish. Q Tickets 600 - 2,500Rbl.

D-3, State Theater of Musical Comedy, Ul. Italianskaya 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 53 16, www.disney.ru. For the first time ever in Russia Disneys Aladdin will be shown on the stage of the St. Petersburg Theatre of Musical Comedy with music by legendary Oscar-winning composer Alan Menken and lyrics by Tim Rice and Howard Ashman. This show represents Disneys aspirations to attract the growing Russian family market to its entertainment classics and they are very excited that this show, based on one of the worlds most classic tales, will be shown in Russias northern capital first. The show is based on the 1992 Disney film of the same name and employs an international team of technical experts that will feature dazzling special effects and multimedia supplements that will entertain children as well as adults. Vibrant costumes, extravagant decorations, and breathtaking stunts will help spectators imagine a new world where everything is possible - if you only believe. Q Shows start at 14:00 and 17:00. Tickets 300 - 2,500Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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April - May 2013

12

Culture and Events


May events
01.05 Wednesday 11.05 Saturday

Culture and Events


19:00 Los Texmaniacs

13

Classical Music

21:30 Dance Planet

D-1, Club A2, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradkaya, www. danceplanet.ru. Dance Planet is an enormous dance festival that hopes to awaken spring from its slumber. This years headliner is AXWELL, a 2013 Grammy Award nominee and the main impetus behind the legendary trio, the Swedish House Mafia. Often referred to as the king of house music, AXWELL made the top ten list of the worlds best DJs in DJ Mag and is responsible for the hits, Open Your Heart, Feel The Vibe, Nothing But Love For You, as well as One, Leave The World Behind, and Miami 2 Ibiza. Q Tickets 1,300 - 3,250Rbl.

28.04 Sunday

E-3, Jazz Philharmonic Hall, Zagorodny pr. 27, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.texmaniacs. com. Los Texmaniacs is a conjunto band (conjunto is a term describing music that came out of 19th century Texas) whose sound dances with modern rock and jazz elements. It was formed by the legendary musician Max Baca in 1997 who plays an instrument called bajo sexto, a Mexican 12-stringed guitar. The band plays traditional conjunto instruments with a button accordion thrown in and have participated in dozens of projects and most recently won a Grammy Award for their 2010 album Borders Y Bailes. In addition to performing at the Smithsonian Folk Music Festival, they have appeared on the stages of numerous international festivals, and have toured with everyone from traditional conjunto bands to the Rolling Stones. They are performing as part of the II Festival of Traditional American Music. Q Tickets 400 - 1,000Rbl.

18:00 Justin Bieber

Sport Concert Complex (SKK), Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.justinbiebermusic.com. Justin Bieber literally needs no introduction, but here it goes: Canadian boy posts videos on youtube, is discovered by American talent agent at the age of 14, quickly signs a recording contract, and becomes a huge teenage sensation all over the world with numerous number one singles, awards, and a fan base that should be the envy of any performer. Now a veteran at the age of 19, he is coming to Russia for a series of concerts, including one at SKK stadium. Q Tickets 1,400 - 9,000Rbl.

Apr 01 02 03 04 04 05 05 07 09 10

Time 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 12:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 15:00 19:00 19:00 20:00 19:00 19:00 Time 19:00

Aurora Fashion Week


09.05 Thursday - 18.05 Saturday

Cirque du Soleil Alegria

16.05 Thursday

13, 14 13 14 19 21 23 24 26 27 28 May 01

Ledovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, www.cirquedusoleil.com. Cirque Du Soleils enchantingly vivid and impossibly ambitious Alegria (Joy) show has been performed over 5,000 times since it was first conceived in 1994. The nail-biting acrobatics and contortions of the artistes are executed with grace, and complimented with a similarly stunning musical score, and baroque-brushed visuals - impressive set designs and brilliantly elaborate costumes- make an already legendary performance unmissable. Q Shows start at 13:00, 17:00, 15:00 and 19:00. Tickets 2,900 - 13,000Rbl.

20:00 The Baseballs

15.04 Monday - 21.04 Sunday

D-3, Manege, Isaakievskaya pl. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 242 00 36, www.afwrussia.com. The seventh season of the International Week of Fashion, Aurora Fashion Week, will take place in St. Petersburg from 15-21 April. In the short period of its existence this event has become the third largest fashion affair in all of Eastern Europe. More than 40 designers will participate including veteran and up-and-coming fashion stars. One of the most highly anticipated highlights of this annual event is the showcase of the works of St. Petersburg designers. This year the collections of local fashionistas Tatiana Parfenova, Pirosmani, Leonid Alekseev, Igor Gulyaev, Yanis Chamalidi, Sergey Bondarev and others will be shown. There will also be an educational and economic conference called FASHIONOMICA which will synchronise the experience of local designers with the success of examples from the world stage.

B-3, Club Cosmonavt, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. thebaseballs.com. The Baseballs began when young Germans, Sam, Digger, Basta gathered in a Berlin studio to record cover versions of pop hits from the 1950s and 1960s. They found their style, however, when they realized that it would be more interesting to turn modern pop hits into energetic rock anthems. Since then their success has been remarkable, touring all over Europe and winning a number of continental-wide awards. As they say themselves, their secret is not simply playing popular hits, but in breaking them down to their essence and finding the truth through energetic live interpretations. Moscow collective the Jazz Dance Orchestra will open. Q Tickets 1,300 - 3,200Rbl.

06 19:00 04, 05 12:00 16 18 22 23 26 29 31 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

Event Venue State Academic Andreev GPH Imperial Russian Orchestra Beethoven, Tchaikovsky GPH Puccini MCH Andreas Fischer MCH Rimsky-Korsakov, GPH Shchedrin, Popov Mozart. Requem MCH Leo van Doeselaar GPH (Nehterlands): Sweelinck, Bach, Brahms Tchaikovsky, Stravinsky, GPH Prokofiev Myaskovsky, Stravinsky GPH Piotr Anderszewski GPH (Poland): Bach, Schumann The pranks of Fata MCH Morgana V. Panchenko GPH S. Slonimsky GPH Mussorgsky, GPH Rachmaninov, Prokofiev J. Strauss, Kalman, GPH Suppe, Lehar, Offenbach Terem-Quartet: GPH Tchaikovsky, Shostakovich, Gavrilin Dvorak, Skoryk, GPH Tishchenko Silvestrov, Moody GPH Schibert, Beethoven GPH Telemann, Hendel, Haydn GPH Event Venue St. Petersburg State GPH Academic Symphony Orchestra Tchaikovksy GPH The Orchestra comes MCH on stage Franz Loerch (Germany): GPH Buxtehude, Pachelbel, Bach, Mozart Prokofiev GPH Shubert, Medtner, GPH Rachmaninov Elgar, Hindemith, Ibert GPH Mozart, Beethoven GPH Bach, Kissin, Ives, GPH Schubert Haydn, Beethoven, GPH Chopin

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2013

14

Culture and Events


Exhibitions
Through 21.04 Sunday
D-3, The State Russian Centre of Photography ROSPHOTO, ul. Bol. Morskaya 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. This exhibition at ROSPHOTO will introduce the works of Igor Savchenko, one of the better known art photography masters in contemporary Belarus. Savchenko started to take photographs when he was just a young boy and his output is primarily regarded today as the research and development of what is known as proto-photography, based on the idea of reproduction of an original image. This practice results in returning the image to its pure and anonymous state, in crossing the conventional boundaries of genre, tradition, and cultural determinacy. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00.

Culture and Events


Through 01.09 Sunday
D-1, Museum of the St. Petersburg Avant-garde (Matyushin house), ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Active from the beginning of the 20th century, Matyushin was one of the leaders of St. Petersburgs avant garde artists, and besides photography, he was a painter, composer, and music theoretician. The photographs for this exhibition come from the State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg as collected from family albums by Matyushin and his last wife, Olga. In addition to photographs, paintings and graphic works will be displayed. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed.

15

Photographer Mikhail Matyushin

The Art of Sweden

Igor Savchenko. Mysteries. 1989-1996

Through 12.05 Sunday

All People Are Sisters

D-2, The Peter and Paul Fortress, Ioannovsky ravelin, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. In honour of the 100th anniversary of International Womens Day in St. Petersburg, an exhibition entitled, All People Are Sisters features painting and graphics, posters, postcards, porcelain, household items, and costumes on loan from the State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg. The exhibit tells the story of the most popular holiday in Russia dedicated exclusively to women, as well as talks about the changing of the image of women over the course of the 20th century including the evolution of their appearance, and role in the family and society. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Wed.

17.04 Wednesday - 28.04 Sunday

Howard Brooks

D-2, Molbert art gallery, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 438 01 14, www. molbertgallery.ru. The Molbert Gallery will present a personal exhibition of the paintings of English-Swedish artist Howard Brooks, a visionary known for creating his own style. His paintings throw viewers a bit off guard with their astonishing accuracy and sharpness, and even though they are painted in oils they appear almost as photographs. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Through 31.12 Tuesday

Collection of porcelain and glassware of the XVIII - XXI centuries


Through 21.04 Sunday

E-3, Loft Project Etagi, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 458 50 05, www.loftprojectetagi.ru. Featuring 160 photographs of wild life from 59 countries from all over the world, this, the most visited exhibition project in Russia coincides with the Year of the Protection of the Environment in Russia. The Golden Turtle, in its seventh year, tries through photographs and films to raise the interest of ordinary citizens in wildlife, nature, and the environment. This exhibit will eventually travel the country visiting dozens of cities. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

Zolotaya Cherepakha 7 (The Golden Turtle)

-2, The Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. This new permanent exhibition at the Peter and Paul Fortress tells the story of the history of porcelain and glassware in Russia and Europe over the last three centuries. Here you can see around 5,000 pieces from the collections of the State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg, showing the techniques and technologies used over this period and the evolution of various trends in the art. Highlights include the Art Nouveau sets, memorial pieces which belonged to iconic Petersburgers such as Anna Akhmatova and Olga Berggolts, and work produced by Petersburgs own Lomonosov Imperial Porcelain factory, as well as Soviet propaganda pieces from the 1920s and 1930s. The collection also includes numerous examples of work from Western Europe, including Englands famous Wedgewood china. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.

14.05 Tuesday - 01.06 Saturday

Secrets of Russia/Secrets of Finland

01.05 Wednesday - 12.05 Sunday

E-3, Borey art center, Liteiny pr. 58, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. The Design Bureau Company in partnership with the Institute of Finland presents The Secrets of Russia/Secrets of Finland, two separate exhibitions by Finnish artists Aamu Song and Johan Olin that will attempt to revive the half-forgotten traditions of these two countries. The purpose of these exhibits is to answer the question, what is traditional design in these two countries? Secrets of Russia will be shown in the Borey art center and the Secrets of Finland will be displayed in the Institute of Finland (Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, metro Nevsky pr.). QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun, Mon.

Malinda Damgaard

D-2, Molbert art gallery, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 438 01 14, www. molbertgallery.ru. As part of the project The Art of Sweden will be a unique exhibition displaying the hats of Malinda Damgaard, who was recently awarded the prize of Best Accessories Designer by ELLE Sweden. She has created hats for such famous brands as Ralph Lauren, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Donna Karan, and others. She is currently working on developing her own brand in Stockholm. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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April - May 2013

16

Culture and Events


May Holidays
01.05 Wednesday 27.05 Monday

Features
St. Petersburg City Day
St. Petersburg will be celebrating its 310th anniversary this year and if you are anywhere remotely near the city centre on this day the festivities will be impossible to miss. As Peterburgers love their city with an almost maniacal fervor, you can expect the party to last all day and possibly into the next. During the day Nevsky pr. is closed to traffic and citizens will take to the street en masse, clad in costumes, wigs or silly hats, clutching balloons, ice-creams or adult beverages as they march towards Palace square for free concerts, the Admiralty lawn for games, and the embankments to ooh and aah over the fireworks.

17

Spring and Labour Day


International Workers Day or Spring and Labour Day as it is now known, initially came about to commemorate the 1886 Haymarket affair in Chicago where workers were striking for an eight-hour workday. After a bomb was thrown the police, who had been trying to quell the demonstrations, reacted viciously killing dozens of demonstrators. The first legal celebration of this holiday occurred in Russia in 1917, although there had been illegal manifestations in the years prior. It was an important state holiday in the Soviet Union, with elaborate parades held in major cities. Of course Red Square was the epicentre of celebrations and where the General Secretary of the Communist Party would preside over the festivities. While the further Russia moves away from its communist past the less salient is its original meaning, it is still an official state holiday. Although there are still some popular celebrations held, it is a shadow of its former self, and is more representative of the beginning of the warm weather season, and more immediately, the beginning of the long May holidays period, the spring equivalent to the New Years holiday. Fans of football and the local club Zenit St. Petersburg have a lot to look forward this spring. Zenit has a packed schedule of Russian Premier League fixtures in April and May, and will aim to continue its run in the Russian Cup as well. With Zenit playing for a third national championship in a row, local football fans will be coming out in droves to provide their full support to the team at beautiful Petrovsky Stadium. The Russian Premier League reaches its denouement as summer approaches, with the final match day of the season coming on May 26. Before that, Zenit will be battling to overcome CSKA and Anzhi at the top of the Russian league table. Things get started at Petrovsky Stadium when Zenit hosts Krylya Sovetov of Samara on April 7. Zenit then hosts mid-table side FC Krasnodar, from southern Russia, on April 21. Russias traditional May holidays come next, and Zenit will add some local flavor to the party by taking on Alania Vladikavkaz, a colorful team from Russias Caucuses region, on Sunday, May 5. Finally, Zenit will look to seal the deal in its last home match of the Russian season on Sunday, May 19, vs. Volga Nizhny Novgorod. Zenit will consider its chances of winning all four home matches to be good. To begin with, Zenit tied Krylya Sovetov and beat its other three opponents when playing them on the road earlier in the season. For another, Zenit will have to win every match this spring if the club wants to make a run for the Russian championship. Being the current holders of the Russian title for two seasons in a row, Zenit and its passionate Italian head coach Luciano Spalletti wont want to give up the chance for a three-peat. The circumstances of being 8 points behind CSKA as the league restarts in March means Spalletti will have to get his players hungry to win every single match through the end of the season in order to make a comeback for the top prize. Besides the quest for a three-peat in the Russian Premier League, Zenit can also shoot for a trophy double by winning the prestigious Russian Cup. Zenit first won this hardware back in 1944, when it was still the USSR Cup. That sensational victory came during the hardest period in the history of the city the Siege of Leningrad. The almost 900 day Siege saw Leningraders endure incredible hardship, and winning the USSR Cup in 1944 was seen as a superhuman feat by the players who came home from the front to win the trophy for the home faithful. Zenit beat Dynamo Moscow and Spartak Moscow on its way to the final, then managed to beat the Lieutenants (TsDKA) in the final. Photo by Roman Kitashov / FC Zenit Zenit last won the Russian Cup in 2010, in Luciano Spallettis first year at the helm of the team. Zenit has made it to the quarterfinals of this years Russian Cup, and will now play Kuban at home on Friday, April 17th, in a make or break match to advance to the semifinals. Winning the Russian Cup will be a key goal for Zenit, as the Cup winner earns the right to play in the Russian Super Cup as well, to be held in July. Information about tickets to all Zenit home matches, including Russian Cup fixtures, is available on the website: en.fc-zenit.ru. Furthermore, fans can purchase tickets to Zenit home matches from any location in the world through their convenient E-ticket service. Make your tickets purchases online in English at tickets.fc-zenit.ru. Joining the party at Petrovsky Stadium is a great way to see Russian culture up close and first hand, and to feel the thrill and the energy of the Zenit faithful as they cheer on the home team. Zenit is the only professional football team in this city of 5 million people, and the peoples love for their team runs deep! Come see for yourself! By Chris Pascone

05.05 Sunday

Russian Orthodox Easter


For many people in the west Easter is all about chocolate eggs and the Easter bunny. In Russia the Easter celebration is much about the religious aspect, although as it marks the end of Lent there is also a fair amount of eating involved, too. Russians typically celebrate Easter by eating kulich, a puffy raisin cake made from eggs, butter and topped with powdered sugar, as well as those lovely dyed or painted hard-boiled eggs. During the week before Easter keep your eyes open as markets, shops and street hawkers sell kulich and prior to the holiday, Russians often bring their cakes to church to be blessed by a priest. The Easter service itself actually begins the night before Easter Sunday. People gather at church at around 23:00 to hear the Easter mass. At the end of the service, all the lights in the Church are turned off, except for the holy flame on the altar. Then at the stroke of midnight, Easter begins. The priest lights a candle from the holy flame and the congregation lights its candles from his, until the whole church is bathed in candle light. Bells begin to ring out across the city and the priest will then lead the congregation around the church three times in what is called the cross procession. Finally the doors of the iconostasis are opened symbolising the opening of Christs grave after his resurrection. Easter services tend to last well into the night, although it is perfectly acceptable to arrive for just part of the service and light your candles. Finally after the service people head home and get ready for a day of feasting on Easter Sunday.

Victory Day

09.05 Thursday

Victory Day is one of Russias most popular public holidays. The celebrations start at 10:00 with a huge military parade, followed up by a veterans and blockade survivors parade down Nevsky Pr. and across Palace Square. A big street party follows with singing, music, and lots of hugs and flowers for the survivors of the war. The day ends with a huge firework display over the Neva river and Peter and Paul Fortress area at 22:00. To get into the spirit of things buy yourself a big bundle of red carnations and greet any veterans you see with a hearty s dnyom pobedy (Happy Victory Day) and a flower. Photo by Vyacheslav Evdokimov / FC Zenit

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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April - May 2013

18

Features

Features
The Fontanka is another river often mistaken for being a canal and was considered the southern boundary of St. Petersburg until the middle of the 18th century. It is actually a branch of the Neva River and winds its way through the centre. At a length of 6,700 metres, the Fontanka is lined with many former residences of the nobility. It was originally called Anonymous Creek, but was renamed in 1719 because it was the source of water for the fountains in the Summer Garden. Fifteen bridges cross the river. Kryukov Canal was constructed in 1719-1720 and originally ran from the Neva River to the Moika River, although the section from the Neva to the Admiralty Canal was filled up with dirt in 1842. It currently spans the length of just over a kilometre from the Admiralty Canal by Pl. Truda to the Fontanka River. It was named after the contractor and acquaintance of Peter the Greats, Semen Kryukov, in 1738. Six bridges cross the canal. The Novo-Admiralteisky Canal forms from the confluence of the Admiralteysky Canal and the Moika River and flows into the Neva River. It was dug in the first quarter of the 18th century and lines the Admiralty Shipyards, one of the largest and oldest in all of Russia.

19

Canals
If one element can be said to aptly describe Kolomna, it is water. You will cross many bridges over the ubiquitous canals of the neighbourhood. Additionally, you may notice that one of the major figures of the neighborhood is St. Nicholas, the patron saint for sailors. Bounded by the Fontanka, Moika, Kryukov, and Novo-Admiralteisky canals and the Neva River, Kolomna is spread out over five islands. Although the Moika is often confused for being a canal, it is actually a river that encircles St. Petersburg and making it an island. At 5 kilometres long it flows from the Fontanka River near the Summer Garden and crosses Nevsky pr. and Kryukov Canal before flowing into the Neva River. While originally named after a local word that meant slush due to its murkiness, it was renamed Moika (similar to the word for to wash) after the Kryukov Canal linked it to the Fontanka River which made the water significantly clearer. Fifteen bridges cross the Moika.

Historical Introduction Kolomna


Everything here is unlike other parts of Petersburg; its not the capital and its not the provinces. Its all about silence and retirement here. Nikolai Gogol on Kolomna Kolomna is one of the rare neighbourhoods of St. Petersburg that has changed little since the beginning of the 19th century. In fact, one local resident we consulted suggested that it is the least gentrified of all sections of St. Petersburgs centre. This fact offers the visitor (and there are few here) the chance to wander through centuries of Russian and St. Petersburgs history, architecture, and soul largely undisturbed. The intrepid traveler that wanders through here will pass through placid squares and quiet side streets, tranquil walks through the ubiquitous canals that traverse the neighborhood, and experience how many local residents live without venturing very far at all from Nevsky pr. They will also experience a religiously diverse ensemble of places of worship: a synagogue, an Estonian Lutheran Church, a Catholic Church, and a Russian Orthodox Cathedral are all located here. A stroll through Kolomna is a unique window into Russias past, present, and future. But, the benefits may not come to those who wait, as new hotels are appearing in and around this area at the clip of several a year and a future metro station is planned in the heart of the neighborhood near Teatralnaya ploshchad. If the rest of the city is any indication, it may only be a matter of time before box stores and shopping malls appear. But for now, mass consumerism has not spread to this edge of the centre. There are small mom and pop stores, cozy bars, and laidback cafes. If one wishes to make Kolomna their base during their visit to St. Petersburg, there are a number of lodging options here, ranging from grand 5 star hotels to inexpensive hostels. How Kolomna got its name is quite a disputed question, however, one of the possibilities is from the word koloniya (colony), presumably in honor of the many foreigners that lived in the neighborhood in its early existence. At first the area was populated by officers and workers of the Admiralty, petty bureaucrats, artisans, and members of the provincial nobility. The first structures in the area were wooden, but by 1761 stone buildings began to appear, presumably to handle the fires that were prevalent at the time.

Photo by Slava Savchenko

Map Legend
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5

St. Nicholas Cathedral Monument to Gogols story the Nose Blok Museum Grand Choral Synagogue St. Johns Protestant Church Mariinsky Theatre St. Petersburg Conservatory Ballet Street Nove Cocktail Bar Bierstube brewery-restaurant Romeos Bar & Kitchen The Idiot restaurant Stroganoff Steak House

You can find three Kolomna walking routes online: www.inyourpocket.com/ russia/st-petersburg/ Sightseeing-in-St-Petersburg. To download as a PDF click on Sightseeing in St. Petersburg PDF in the upper right hand corner

5 1 4 2

6 8 3 5 4 3

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2013

20

Features
Mariinsky Theatre Religious Kolomna
The St. Nicholas Naval Cathedral was first built on the banks of the Kryukov Canal beginning in 1753 and was completed nine years later. This beautiful blue and white cathedral served as the main shrine for the Russian Navy until the Revolution and in the 18th century this part of town was known as the sailors quarter. Built in the Elizabethan Baroque style, the cathedral is named for St. Nicholas, a fourth-century Greek saint known for his generosity. He is often cited as the inspiration for Santa Claus and is the patron saint for travelers and sailors. The Grand Choral Synagogue of St. Petersburg was built beginning in 1880. After its construction, a large portion of St. Petersburgs Jewish population settled nearby. Today it remains the second largest synagogue in all of Europe with 3,200 square metres in area and can accommodate 1200 worshippers simultaneously. The synagogue contains a kosher restaurant and a gift shop. The Estonian Cultural Centre Jaani Kirik, also known as St. Johns Protestant Church, was founded in 1859 for the Estonian population of St. Petersburg. It was closed during Soviet times and largely destroyed. The remaining structure was used as a warehouse. It was restored recently and reopened in 2011 with the President of Estonia attending the ceremony. Al eksandr Pushkin (1799 -1837 ) memorialised th e neighbourhood in his 1830 poem, Domik v Kolomne (House in Kolomna), about a widow who lives there with her daughter. Much of perhaps Fyodr Dostoevskys (1821-1881) most famous novel, Crime and Punishment (1866), takes place in Kolomna. The suffocating atmosphere of poverty stricken St. Petersburg that many associate with his novel can be found here, although one would hardly recognize it today. The supposed apartment where the hero Raskolnikov laid his head plotting his murder is located here. Nearby where Nikolay Gogol (1809-1852) lived and worked at Dekabristov Ul. 4, is a small monument to the Nose, (1835-1836) one of Russian literatures enduring works about an officer who loses his nose and chases it around St. Petersburg.

Features

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Mariinsky Theatre (MAT) C-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1,

MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. The home of Russian ballet and opera since the 1860s, the Mariinsky Theatre, is a cultural leader and one of the most illustrious and beautiful theatres in the world. GETTING THERE: from metro station Nevsky Prospekt by bus 3, 22 and 27 or fixed-route minibus K-180 and K-169. From metro station Sennaya Ploshchad by fixed-route minibus K-1, K-186, K-124 and K-350 or any form of transport to St Nicholas Cathedral then by foot to Theatre Square. Q Admission 300-6,000Rbl. Online booking. Note that there are higher prices for tickets for foreigners. All citizens of the Russian Federation and foreign citizens working or studying in Russia pay the standard ticket rate. A

Yusupov Palace
Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 332 19 91, www. yusupov-palace.ru. This palace was purchased by the wealthy Yusupov family in 1830 to house their ar t collection and retains an aristocratic atmosphere. It also was the scene of the grisl y murder of the sleazy Siberian peasant and mystic Grigory Rasputin, who was exercising too much influence over the royal family for Felix Yusupovs liking. On the Rasputin tour you can see where Felix and his entourage tried to poison Rasputin in the cellar in 1916, before they beat him and chucked him into the Moika, where he finally died. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group tours should be booked in advance by phone 314 88 93. Admission 500Rbl. Audioguide free, 1,000Rbl deposit.

Yusupov Palace C-3,

Literary, Artistic, and Theatrical


Eons of Russian writers have made Kolomna their home. Dostoevsky, Pushkin, Lermontov, Blok, Griboedov, Gogol, Esenin, Zhukovsky, Mandelstam, and Chernyshevsky all spent large swathes of their most creative periods here. Indeed it is unlikely that one could find such a dense area in the entirety of Russia where such a significant output of esteemed Russian literature flowed from the pen. Russian poet Alender Blok (1880-1921) spent the last nine years of his life here until his untimely death at age 40 at Ul. Dekabristov 57, now a museum. Very active in the first two decades of the twentieth century, the collections of Bloks Museum were lovingly assembled by his wife Lyubov Dmitriyevna, daughter of the famed chemist, Dmitry Mendeleev.

But not only writers lived here: Glinka, Mussorgsky, Prokofiev, and Tchaikovsky make up the short list of world-famous composers that have resided in Kolomna. At Anglisky pr. 21 is the former home of the composer of such classics as the 1812 Overture, Swan Lake, The Nutcracker, and Sleeping Beauty, Pyotr Tchaikovsky (1840-1893). However, Tchaikovsky was a bit of a transient; this was just one of 34 addresses in St. Petersburg that he had in his lifetime. An odd six-story black building at Kryukov Canal 14 has long been the destination of musicians: Fyodor Shalyapin rented an apartment here, Aleksandr taught his cousin Sergey Rakhmaninov how to play piano here, and often had the young Sergey Prokofiev over for tea. Built between 19121914 in the neoclassical style, this structure features an unusual entrance marked by colonnades and sculptures. Additionally, a significant number of actors, directors, revolutionaries, architects, academics, and artists have contributed to Russias place in the world while walking the streets and spending their nights in Kolomna. The heart of Kolomna and the main reason tourists come here, is the world-famous Mariinsky Theatre. It is located on Teatralnaya pl., which used to be known as Karuselnaya Square, because at one time a carousel was installed in the centre of it. The Mariinsky opened its doors in 1860, and has served as the main cathedral of opera and ballet in St. Petersburg (and arguably all of Russia) ever since. Many of Tchaikovskys, Mussorgskys, and Rimsky-Korsakovs famous works were first staged here. Back in the day the best places to sit were the first two rows of the orchestra, which had seats. Behind these rows were standing places for the poor. The first two balconies were exclusively reserved for the nobility.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2013

22

Features
Weve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period April - May 2013. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing.

hotels

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5 Stars
Angleterre Hotel D-3, Ul. Mal. Morskaya 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to its high-end business clients with multiple conference rooms, a unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also periodically hosts film festivals and a fitness centre complete with a Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are cosy, comfy and contemporary in style with simple red accents and parquet flooring. Views of St. Isaacs are unparalleled from their deluxe suites or the posh corner Caviar Bar. The Italian head chef has made Borsalino a destination for years with their expertly executed Italian dishes and pastries plus a business lunch buffet that changes daily. Q193 rooms (Room prices start at 7,000Rbl). PTHAFLGK DCW hhhhh Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg E-3, Nevsky pr. 57,
M Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www. corinthia.com. Following a 90-million-euro refurbishment the Corinthia has now become the largest five-star conference and business hotel in the city. From the very entrance, compromising of a huge elegant lobby down to the stylishly modern rooms and posh dining facilites, the impression is that this place has had a most thorough polish - the shine on those chandeliers is positively blinding! Happily the staff are just as welcoming as the rooms and the conference organisation is top class. Q388 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast (1,330Rbl) not included. PTHAUFLGKDW hhhhh

Grand Hotel Europe D-3, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7,


MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Occupying the full length of Mikhailovskaya Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all, from the original art-deco detailing to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed down to the last detail. There are also five top-notch restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar or authentic Chinese at Chopsticks. For fine dining, LEurope with its stained glass art deco interior simply cannot be beat for style or history. The Mezzanine Cafe, with its atrium above, oozes elegance and bustles with livewire atmosphere. Q276 rooms (Room prices start at 11,200Rbl). VAT and Breakfast (2,000Rbl) are not included. PTHA6UFLG KDW hhhhh

St. Isaacs Cathedral

St. Isaacs Cathedral D-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www. cathedral.ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaacs is one of the worlds largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the domes top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the mounth. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

On ul. Dekabristov opposite the Mariinsky is the St. Petersburg Conservatory, where Chaykovksy, Rakhmaninov, Shostakovich, Dyagilev, and Prokofiev all received their musical training. It was founded by Anton Rubenshtein (1829-1894), considered one of the 19th centurys premiere piano virtuosos and the author of 20 operas. The building was originally known as the Kammeny Teatr and before the conservatory moved in it housed horse shows. Nearby is a statue of composer Nikolay Rimsky-Korsakov (1844-1908), who dedicated his life to creating a national style of classical music for Russia. His compositions are staples of St. Petersburgs symphony halls today. A little ways down the street from the Mariinsky is a statue of composer Mikhail Glinka (1804-1857). Widely considered to be the founder of classical music in Russia, Glinka is best remembered today for two operas: A Life for the Tsar and Ruslan and Lyudmila. Angliisky pr. could be also be called Ballet Street. Many of Russias most famous ballet dancers took up residence in the two blocks between Ul. Dekabristov and the Moika River. In house 19 for many years lived Nataliya Dudinskaya (1912-2003), the prima ballerina of the Kirov Ballet (now the Mariinsky) in the 1930s and 1940s and winner of four Stalin prizes, one of the highest honours in the Soviet Union. Across the street at house 18 lived Matilda Kshesinskaya (18721971), prima ballerina assoluta of the Imperial Mariinsky Theatre, from 1892-1906. She was one of the most famous ballerinas in pre-revolutionary Russia and was also the mistress of future Tsar Nicholas II. Russian painter Ilya Repin (1844-1930), famous for his portraits of Ivan the Terrible, Lev Tolstoy, and Modest Mussorgsky lived in Kolomna from 1882-1887 (at what is now known as Repin Square). He supposedly said that there was no better place for him to work than Kolomna. We hope that you find similar inspiration here.

Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg -3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. This in the first venture into Russia from the Italian Domina Hotel brand. In a boutique hotel style the entrance is subtle yet impressive with a colourful and bright lobby lit by a huge skylight and impressive contemporary chandelier. Tucked away discreetly to the side is the canal-view cocktail bar Nove decorated in larger-than-life style with neon bright colours and art installations. Up in the rooms theres ample space to work, rest and play with large desks, rain showers and gigantic beds. The colour scheme here too is bright and adventurous without a spot of beige in sight, which is all part of Dominas aim to make guests feel that this is not just a hotel, its an experience. Q109 rooms (Room price start at 10,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast (1,200Rbl) not included. PTHA6ULG KDwW hhhhh

Hotel Astoria C-2, Ul. Bol. Morskaya 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria. com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral staircase, Rotonda lounge which offers afternoon tea and caviar, Kandinsky whiskey and cigar bar and Davidov restaurant. Throughout the hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to preserve the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art nouveau accents. The rooms have been given contemporary upgrades such as all natural linens and rain showers. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the original collection. Other amenities include conference spaces in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita salon. Q188 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). PHAFGKDwW hhhhh Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www. kempinski.com/stpetersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 is located in a charming and historical area, in the very heart of St. Petersburg, on the Moika River, opposite the renowned Hermitage Museum and Palace Square. The Hotel is just two minutes walk from the Nevsky Prospect and close to all major sights and shopping. The unique location of the panoramic Bellevue Brasserie on the ninth floor of the hotel makes it one of the most awe-inspiring places in the whole old St Petersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 offers 197 rooms and suites and features the Beau Rivage restaurant; Wine Cellar; Tea Room and the Von Witte bar with its log fireplace. Q197 rooms (Room prices start at 11,475Rbl). Extra bed 3,150Rbl. Breakfast (1,575Rbl) not included. PTHA6FLGKDW hhhhh April - May 2013

Symbol Key
P T K F C D 6 Air conditioning Child friendly Restaurant Fitness centre Swimming pool Sauna Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station W Wi-Fi connection

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hotels
Ask the Concierge
Maria Kiryakova was born in St. Petersburg (Leningrad) and graduated from the St. Petersburg State University of Economy and Finance. She has been working as a concierge in the Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg for more than 6 years. Before joining Corinthia she worked as a funds specialist for a state enterprise in the purchasing and logistics department. In addition to her duties as concierge, she also works as the Operational Coach in the hotel and is in charge of training new staff. A member of the international organization Les Clefs dOr, she has attended trainings at the International Concierge Congress. Why did you get into the hospitality business? I was working in different spheres before coming into the hotel industry, but I always was fond of travelling: meeting new people in different countries, visiting interesting places, and staying in small as well as large hotels. When you are on vacation, you spend a lot of time researching unknown places and sights. When you are working in a hotel you are always doing the same thing. What skills are necessary to be a good concierge? Of course you need to be communicative, helpful, smart, and erudite. Concierges know famous and secret places in the city. And concierges have to be emotionally impenetrable people, because not all guests requests are usual and simply solved. What do you see as important for the further development of the hospitality industry in St. Petersburg and Russia as a whole? Education. When I started working as a concierge, the main problem for me was education. Unfortunately, in Russia we dont have special courses or university degrees specializing in being a concierge. You learn all the secrets and skills of the concierge profession only in daily practice and with the help of your colleagues. How would you describe the particularities of the Russian hospitality industry as being different from other countries and regions? Unfortunately not all of the regions of our big country are accessible to foreigners. Even in Moscow and Saint-Petersburg only popular places are well known and described in the city guides. Russia is rich in small cities, suburbs, and villages, which are beautiful, natural, and unexplored. But it is difficult to discover and explore them, as well as reach them without knowledge of the Russian language. What kind of influence will such big international events as the Olympics and the World Cup have on the hospitality industry in Russia? We have been waiting for such huge international events for a long time! Each forum, meeting, and sport event attracts a lot of tourists to Russia and gives the possibility for the world to learn more about our beautiful country. We are happy to get new chances to attract touristic interest to Russia and especially to St. Petersburg. This development helps the hospitality industry to grow and mature.

hotels
Radisson Royal Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/ hotel-stpetersburg. In this central 1730s building the welltrained staff take a professional but personal approach and the hotel offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. The suites have stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. Theres the lovely renovated Barbazan Restaurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous corner lobby bar with its Nevsky view. Their fitness centre includes Canadian wood sauna and jacuzzi. There are ample conference and boardroom facilities. Q164 rooms (Room prices start at 6,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast (1,300Rbl) not included. PTHAUFGKDW hhhhh

25

4 Stars
naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 331 88 44, www.ambassadorhotel.ru. This sophisticated hotel is in a beautiful and ancient district of the city, near to the bustling old Haymarket (Sennaya pl). Rooms are spacious with tall windows, bright red carpets and large flat screen TVs. Sparkling chandeliers, a trendy bar and the classic fine-dining Ambassador restaurant all greet you in the lobby. In fact the hotel has numerous facilities including a tour agency and a 16m pool and juice bar! Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 7,300Rbl). Breakfast (750Rbl) not included. PHAUFLGKDCW hhhh

Ambassador D-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 5-7, MSen-

Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious skylight lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walkways reaching from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the brick tower. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Calming and comfortable with thick mattresses and soft furnishings, the rooms are crisp and bright with chaise-lounges, flat screen tvs and glass bathrooms doors. Q324 rooms (Room prices start at 5,900Rbl). PTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh Taleon Imperial Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Possibly the best-looking hotel in St Petersburg, the Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are the watchwords here: the spacious rooms are impeccably decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress suites have to be seen to be believed. On the top floor, theres a spa with summer terrace and wonderful views over the city. In addition to Griboedov, the hotels Taleon restaurant does a reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant offers a business lunch. Q89 rooms (Room prices start at 13,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included. PTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhhh W St. Petersburg D-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg. com. Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are in for a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thoroughly contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Not merely a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and signature cocktails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves with views of St. Isaacs Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss Spa pampers with a twist, while the Sweat fitness centre and Wet pool area are gleaming temples for body worship. Meeting spaces contain state-of-the-art technology along with unique sensory devices to keep ideas flowing. Each room wows with their signature W bed, designer decor and ultra-plush amenities. Q137 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). Breakfast (1,500Rbl) not included., incl. depending on a room type. PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhhh

via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. This business-focused hotel has a whole floor of conference space and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby (which has free WiFi), a bar and two restaurants; one of them, the reasonably priced Bierstube, even brews four sorts of beer. Theres also a small gym on the third floor. Ten minutes walk from the Mariinsky Theatre, the hotel enjoys a quiet location on Kan. Griboedova (shuttle buses to Sennaya pl.). Q273 rooms (Room prices start at 3,800Rbl). VAT and breakfast (850 Rbl) are not included. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel C-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance

C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214 room hotel is aimed firmly at the business traveller. With eight conference rooms, including the massive atrium assembly room, and enormous desks in every room even the most workaholic guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. Theres a light and airy Russian/French restaurant with views to the river, as well as a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Breakfast (985Rbl) not included in Deluxe/Studio rates. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport Startovaya

ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. Situated next to the international terminal of Pulkovo airport, this is the citys first airport hotel. A modern design on the buildings facade includes quirky windows in the guest rooms, designed for watching planes take off, a huge bright lobby and dining areas plus large and flexible conference room space. Theres a spa and fitness area with a Russian banya for post-flight relaxation and the hotel runs a free shuttle bus service between the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals. Q294 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. VAT and breakfast (850Rbl) are not included. PTHAUFLGBKDW hhhh

U menya zabranirovan nomer I have a reservation


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St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

26

hotels
ogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located just off Nevsky pr, Novotel belongs to the Accor chain of hotels and offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition of the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is modern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are modern, and comfortable. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-the-art conference rooms and a fitness centre. Q233 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast (850Rbl.) not included. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. Facing onto Nevsky and within a stones throw of Moskovsky railway station, you couldnt dream of a more practical location than this well-designed hotel. Despite its central location the noise of the city is inaudible and rooms are all brightly and comfortably up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy Paulaner restaurant, which bustles at all times of day and is smartly spread over two levels with views to Nevsky and plenty of light coming through the delightful atrium. A great choice for those here to enjoy the citys tourist delights. Q269 rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Restaurants
Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden D-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler looking for a hotel that does things right, the Olympia Garden is a breath of fresh air. It has everything you could want. Thick curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture complete the small but functional rooms. The mattresses were even designed using NASA technology. The size difference between standard and superior rooms is negligible, so if traveling alone the standard will suffice. There are multiple conference rooms, holding up to 350 people, and free wifi and laptop rentals. Q348 rooms (Room prices start at 4,300Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFL GBKDW hhhh Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-3, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www. sokoshotels.com. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg brings yet more Finnish style and sophistication to the city. The rooms are comfortable with stylish contemporary interiors and the usual mod-cons. In the hotel youll find the wonderful 1930s-inspired restaurant Repin Lounge and an Irish-pub style bar. Situated on the older side of Vasilievsky Island, its good for those interested in sightseeing. Q 255 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl.PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh
St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Also remember to check your bill to see if they already included service. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: 0 - 400Rbl 400 - 800Rbl 800 - 1,200Rbl 1,200Rbl plus

27

Novotel St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ul. Mayakovsk-

Russian and Ukrainian


Italyanskaya ul. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 83, www.grandp.ru. A top floor restaurant with a view, Stalin & Lenin on the wall, live music on Saturdays - and they still remembered the most important thing, the food. A bit hidden inside a luxury shopping center running between Nevsky Prospekt and Ul. Italyanskaya, Chaika is a nice retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city centre. Why not admire the Russian Museum from above after (or instead of) visiting? During the weekends it might be hard to find a spot right next to the glass roof, but the rest of the restaurant breathes atmosphere as well. Soviet propaganda posters adorn the walls, which makes for nice decoration, but in other respects its a long way from Communist times. The extensive cocktail menu as well as tasty fish & meat dishes are sure to please almost any customer. The pumpkin dessert we tasted was really quite something, but not on the main menu - although they might just change that after they read our review. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. . PTALSW

Chaika D-3, Grand Palace Boutique Gallery, top floor,

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg E-3,

Radisson Sonya Hotel E-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MCherny-

3 Stars
Azimut Hotel Saint-Petersburg C-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, M Baltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.ru. This hotel, previously known as the Sovetskaya, is slowly but surely transforming itself in to a European style budget hotel, complete with good restaurant and conference facilities. More than 1000 rooms are scattered over 18 floors - with over half them having received a modern, functional, terracotta-coloured renovation. This is the tallest building in the historical part of the city and the view from the evening bar on the 18th floor is quite simply stunning. Q1026 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl). PHAFLGKW hhh
Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel. com/6157. Smart and clean with the appearance of an upmarket hotel, Ibis is marketed for those in search of reasonably priced accommodation, leisure travellers and business people. With a central location, brand spanking new decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant downstairs, this is a great option at very reasonable rates. Q221 rooms (Room prices start at 2,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl only for suites. Breakfast (480 Rbl) not included. PHAULGKW hhh

shevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/ sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotel looks like something from another planet compared to some of the other more standard upmarket business class hotels in the city. It positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer wallpaper. Themed around Dostoevskys novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references to the book are everywhere from the carpet and furniture to the Russian restaurant. The huge glass covered courtyard with glass fronted kitchen is stunning. Q173 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl. Breakfast (920Rbl) not included. PTHA6UFGKDW hhhh

Les Clefs dOr


Back in the bad old days, a Russian concierge would probably be considered simply as glorified security guard, checking the comings and goings of guests and offering little in terms of local knowledge and professional expertise. Thankfully those days have long since passed and nowadays the role of concierge is one taken as seriously in Russia as in any other western country. In fact numerous St. Petersburg hotels now have concierges who are members of the prestigious professional association Les Clefs dOr which was founded in France in 1929. Look out for members of staff wearing the distinctive golden keys badge on their lapel in places such as Taleon, Grand Hotel Europe, Astoria, Angleterre and Corinthia. These highly qualified concierges are there to make your stay as special and comfortable as possible and you can expect them to be a fountain of knowledge about everything - they can book tickets and make reservations for you, recommend restaurants, organise unique excursions or simply help you find a good tailor. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket is very happy to be partners with Les Clefs dOr.

IBIS St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl.

Chekhov D-1, Ul. Petropavlovskaya 4, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 234 45 11. This charming dining venue allows you to step into a Russian country house at the beginning of the nineteenth century, just as if you were entering into the world of author Anton Chekhov. Recreating the traditional delicacies from recipes of that time, you can enjoy a sumptutous meal as a piano player serenades the room. The waitresses rustle past in their long gowns serving up a range of carefully presented, wholly satisfying dishes. Popular with Russians and foreigners alike, reservations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PTAES Levin D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is a small restaurant with a homey atmosphere, with books lining the walls and comfortable couches and chairs. Their menu has a selection of moderately-priced homemade Russian dishes and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something familiar and satisfying. They are very accomdating to foreign guests, and have a bilingual menu and free wifi. The service is among the fastest youll find in St. Petersburg - youre not going to waste fifteen minutes waiting for someone to bring you a menu. Its not usually very busy or loud, so its a good place to relax and have a nice meal in a homey setting. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAGSW

Hostels
Cubahostel C-2, Ul. Ka zanskaya 5, 3r d f loor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. With an almost unbeatable location just behind Kazan Cathedral, Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The fourteen rooms each sleep from two to ten people. Upstairs theres a recently upgraded communal kitchen, though guests also get special offers including a welcome drink at Atelierbar a few minutes walk away. The staff organise events including regular banya trips, and can also hook guests up with walking and cycling tours. Enter to the right of the old-fashioned red British phone box, press 41 at the downstairs intercom. Linen included. Q15 rooms (Room prices start at 490Rbl). PNGW st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Symbol Key
P E T G B V Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking areas Outside seating Home delivery A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking W Wi-Fi connection M Nearest metro station

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Restaurants
Tandoori Nights D-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. com. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. From now on you can also try a truly authentic Indian beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum and 18 types of tea. Theres plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. . PALVSW

Restaurants

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Beer Restaurants
Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. With their own brewery the Marriotts Bierstube restaurant is a good place to start if you are looking for some homebrewed hoppy stuff. Choose from a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard balcony or tuck yourselves in inside the wood and stucco countryside house themed centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks like calmari and fried cheese sticks before the main events, Bavarian and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavyweights, arrive. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. . PTAULSW

Bierstube C-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg

Der Spieler D-3, Stolyarny per. 13, MSennaya, tel. (+7)

NEP D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.


(+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If youre sitting close to the performers, it is likely youll find yourself part of the nights entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. . PAEBSW

Asian and Indian


Dlinny Khvost E-3, Nevsky pr. 92, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 244 23 56, www.dlinniyhvost.ru. Asian fusion restaurants are the latest trend in Saint Petersburg and Dlinny Khvost is one of the best. Fusion not only applies to the menu, but to the eclectic interior with its signature two-story wooden bunny and mix of dcor that combines basics from various Asian cultures, including traditional Chinese and Thai elements. Open 24 hours, this restaurant has something to offer for every meal: fruit smoothies for breakfast, Asian style shaverma for lunch and spicy curry for dinner. The menu is extensive and reasonably priced, and the quality of food and service is exceptional. Besides, how many places in Saint Petersburg give you a free cup of tea? Q Open 24hrs. . PASW Tandoor D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated mere steps from St. Isaacs cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 15 years now theyve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous best restaurant prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see the citys Indian community trooping in for their banquets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PTALEGSW

812 570 46 30, www.derspieler.ru. Der Spiegel is located on the street where Crime and Punishments Raskolnikov was supposed to have lived, and indeed, the menu of the restaurant informs you that Dostoevsky himself used to frequent a traktir that was at this very location, and Turgenev was a fan as well. They purport to keep the spirit of this traktir alive through present day, with the exposed beams and wood-heavy interior decorations and games available for guests to play that would have been there for Dostoevsky (a noted gambler) to partake in. The modern rock music and large screen television, however, make it hard to transport yourself back to the era they claim to try to emulate. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. . PASW

bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Typically a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust kind of a place where working men wash down cheap vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated finde-sicle inspired place is as far away from that kind of place as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are rich and well made, making this a very classy introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have possibly the biggest vodka list weve ever seen, as well as a vodka museum! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAULESW

Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 C-3, Konnogvardeisky

Foggy Dew E-2/3, Ul. Vosstaniya 39, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 62 63, www.foggydewpub.ru. Foggy Dew is a small establishment near Chernyshevskaya, and has two more locations in the city. The clientele seems to lean heavily toward businessmen in the area, who like to sit at the bar and chat with their favorite bartenders while watching sports. They have a good selection of whisky and beer from the British Isles. The prices, at first glance, seem a bit steep for the kind of food you are getting (Irish pub food classics, heavy on the roast beef, with a couple of Russian favorites thrown in), but if you come Monday through Friday from 12:00 - 16:00, all of the food on the menu is 20% off. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. . PAS
(+7) 812 235 21 66. Zelyony Korol or the Green King is a well-decorated pub located on the Petrograd side, that meets expectations of what a pub should be: loud music, greasy food, quirky interior (typewriters and a jukebox), and a large selection of different kinds of booze, heavy on the whiskies. The menu is limited and unimaginative, but wholly satisfactory for a pub. The grilled sausage plate appetizer is particularly satisfying to be washed down by a beer. The biggest pluses here are the friendly and quick wait staff and the interior that almost resembles an antique shop. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. . PASW

Green King C-1, Ul. Lenina 25, MPetrogradskaya, tel.

812 640 19 00, www.tsar-project.ru. Tsar, as its name suggests, sets out to make its guests feel like real Russian royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal glasses, old portraits of noblemen cover the walls and even the toilets are encased inside giant leather-lined thrones. The Russian cuisine on offer is first rate - no doubt Nicholas II himself would have loved the Pozharskaya cutlet a la Pushkin. The staff, food and atmosphere here is a real lesson in imperial elegance. Q Open 08:00 until last guest. . PTALVESW

Tsar D-3, Ul. Sadovaya 12, M Nevsky pr., tel. (+7)

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Restaurants
Caucasian and Central Asian
(+7) 812 570 56 43. Argavi restaurants light, minimal interior lets you wind down after a long day, with large windows offering enchanting views onto the Fontanky River and embankment. We recommend getting a selection of starters to share as the portions are generous. The lobio, a light bean salad, is fantastic, and the satsivi divine - chicken breast poached in a creamy walnut sauce. For something a bit heavier, the warm, doughy khachapuri oozes cheese and the pork shashlyk tickles the tastebuds. The presence of numerous expatriated Armenians kicking back is a sure sign of Aragvis authenticity. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00 . PASW

Restaurants
Khochu Kharcho D-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho. com. Khachu Kharcho! means I want Kharcho! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course.This is not just a Georgian restaurant, its a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Iso Dzandzava, the brand chef of the restaurant knows all cooking secrets of Megrelian housewives. She always adds hazelnuts into kharcho just like they do it in that blessed region. Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri or the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew). Q Open 24hrs. . PTALVESW Mamalyga D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Mamalyga is a Ginza group Caucasian restaurant, and is ambitious and wide-ranging in its menu as are most Ginza projects. Two steps from Nevsky one can find all kinds of food from the region: Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisines of Swaneti and Guria, thus one can try the various cuisines of the Caucasus here in peace without any of the local antagonisms. Authenticity is a word that the owners use quite often to describe their food and it comes through in the food that is prepared by local cooks (meaning local from there). The menu features a mix of well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashlyks, salads, khachapuris, and pretty much anything else you could want from the South Caucasus. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. . PTALVSW

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European
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 60/(+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Like everything else in this smart hotel, the Ct Jardin restaurant is light, airy and fresh. The business lunch buffets are quite a steal, while the evening menu offers authentic Russian tastes as well as French-inspired European cuisine. For starters look out for the baltic plate (pickled herring, smoked and marinated salmon, red caviar and black bread plus a shot of vodka) or the classic borsch if you want something local. Opting for the Mediterranean influenced part of the menu is especially tempting too, the chef gives everything a light and fresh touch and the sea bass in provencal herbs for example is particularly popular. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30. . PTAULSW

Aragvi E-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 9, MNevsky pr., tel.

Ct Jardin E-3, Novotel, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3a,

Djigiteria C-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya,

tel. (+7) 812 677 36 99, www.gigiteria.ru. This relatively new addition to the citys Georgian restaurants is very different from the sort of thing you normally see. No dark wooden interior, no fake vines adorning the walls - instead, a modern, bright, yet warmly lit interior. The restaurants name is a play on the old word Gigit, meaning young fellow or macho, plus the ending of your usual pizzeria, cafeteria. The menu is not too large, but boasts all that youd expect from the South Caucasian kitchen. The food is well prepared and they certainly take care over the presentation. Most importantly, although the portions seem somewhat small, the food tastes really good and fresh. If you bring your little ones theres a small play room for them and a nanny at weekends. It is located a short walk from the Peter & Paul fortress, just next to the Zenit soccer stadium and inside a new business centre, but dont let that put you off: once inside, its a real treat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTASW

Fartuk E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, M Dostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (rus. Apron) is one of those charming family-run places that make you want to return again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone which is shared by the welcoming and attentive young waitstaff. The menu is a mix of European influences with a focus on Mediterranean tastes and the odd sprinkling of Asian spices, and the homemade lemonades and hot drinks provide excellent refreshment. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. . TPAGSW Metamorfos E-3, Radisson Sonya Hotel, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 06, www.radissonblu.com. This stylish Russian restaurant ticks all the boxes for those who are looking to sample real Russian food with a modern twist. The interior was designed by the wildest imaginations of famous contemporary Swedish designers and the menu mixes up traditional Russian favourites with flair. Its possible to spend time just philosophising over the menu itself, which has been designed to reflect a Dostoevskian novel. Its Russian, but not as you would usually know it. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. Bar open 09:00 - 01:00. . PTAUSW Philibert E-4, Kolomenskaya ul. 29, MLigovsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 607 41 39, www.philibert.ru. A quiet caf with homemade food located on a quiet street not far from Ligovsky Prospect. It is named after the legendary and hospitable French farmer Frantz Philibert who wound up in the Dutch provinces and gained fame for his cordial and fine fare. The menu is not big, but is interesting. Here you can try delicious French quiches, Dutch soup and herring, and mussels. The caf is designed in a Provencal style with furniture made from light-coloured wood, high ceilings, and bookshelves filled with dishes. They also have a sunday brunch: a set menu of hot and cold appetizers with a glass of French wine and either tea or coffee with homemade sweets for 550Rbl. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. . PTALESW

Grand Hotel Europe News

PirO.G.I. na Vosstaniya E-2, Ul. Vosstaniya 55,


MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 72 15, www. piterogi.ru. This place is dedicated to music lovers: there are DJ sets at night and the sounds of French chanson or retro can be heard by day. The food is simple and one can find comfort foods such as Beef Stroganoff with mashed potatoes, salads, and pastas in the enormous menu. Check out the walls which are covered with the photos of celebrities while you are waiting for your food. Q Open 24hrs. . PAESW

Beef Wagyu was first featured here on the New Years menu and proved so popular that it has been included in the permanent menu of LEurope restaurant. Wagyu is the meat of young bulls who are fed grains and beer for 3-4 months before their slaughter; this diet is said to make the meat especially tender. This delicacy is meant to be eaten in small portions, and not as a 350 gramme steak, as this dish was popularised in Japan where portions are traditionally served small.

LEurope, D-3, Grand Hotel Europe, ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 30, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Tchaikovsky Evenings on Fridays 19:00 - 23:00, Jazz Evenings on Saturdays 19:30 - 23:15, Sunday Jazz Brunch 13:00 - 16:30. April - May 2013

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Restaurants
Fine dining
floor), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www. dickensrest.ru. The popular Dickens pub has a sophisticated restaurant upstairs. An open fire place greets you, along with giant imperial oil paintings, tall windows and candle lit tables - it looks like a posh pub inside a stately home. Theres a warm atmosphere and diverse menu, all food is of a high standard and luckily they serve large portions. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. . PASW

Restaurants
International
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 644 40 42, www.cafe-amsterdam.ru. This caf near Chkalovskaya metro station is a testament to the maturity of casual dining on the Petrograd side. While being a bit over the top in its attempts at hipness with resident DJs, karaoke, and brash interiors, the menu is wide-ranging, affordable, and of good quality. You can have almost everything here from sushi to Asian noodle dishes, to European-inspired salads and sandwiches. The menu also features an extensive tea and alcohol section. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. . PASW

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Dickens Restaurant D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108 (2

Amsterdam cafe C-1, Chkalovsky pr. 15, MChkalovs-

Legran D-2, Millionnaya ul. 4/1, MAdmiralteiskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 643 04 44, www.legran-rest.ru. A new addition to the Hermitage neighbourhood, this French bistro serves up French and Russian cuisine in a roomy, well-lit, and well-designed basement that resembles a wine cellar. The wait staff is attentive and friendly and the menu is expansive featuring French beef, fish, and duck dishes, as well as many of the standards of Russian food, which seems appropriate enough here considering the influence French cuisine had on Russian cooking in the pre-revolutionary period, which the restaurant duly pays homage to. Additionally, Legran prides itself on its family-friendly attitude and organises many children-oriented activities such as cooking classes, on holidays and weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTASW

Arka D-2, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 27, MNevsky

Palkin E-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812

Food from Former Republics


One of the unquestionable pluses of Russias Soviet past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised Caucasian cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).

703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrats home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking is recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PTAEW

pr., tel. (+7) 812 240 24 96, www.arka.spb.ru. When you walk into Arka you leave all the dirt and noise of city life behind you. The soft lighting, exposed brick wall and sky-lights create a chic, yet cozy ambience where you can sit and forget about life for a while. A 13-meter bar and an impressive selection of unusual cocktails make it an ideal place to meet up with friends or business partners for after-work, or pre-going out drinks. The menu includes a grill section with sets that are meant to be shared, as well as other traditional dishes prepared in an untraditional way, like the cappuccino mushroom cream soup. The prices are reasonable compared to similar high-class bars and you are guaranteed to leave with a good impression. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. . PTAESW

Bengel & Zaek D-3, Nevsky pr. 21, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 940 88 79. With its beautifully designed interior and intricate details, Bengel & Zaek is definitely about the experience. When you first enter from Nevsky you walk right into a fancy European style bakery where all of the desserts and snacks are displayed in front of you. You have the choice of eating there, taking your goodies to go or venturing to the back of the place where there is a two-story restaurant called Mertens, named after the historical building its housed in. The back restaurant is just as beautiful as the front bakery, boasting a chandelier made out of drink glasses and comfortable smoking and non-smoking areas. At Mertens you can order anything from the bakery as well as enjoy a full food and drink menu. If you are unsure what to order, the coffee dessert cocktail Coffee Cake is outstanding. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. Bakery open 09:00 - 23:00. . PASW Buddha bar F-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www. buddha-bar.ru. There are branches of the glamorous Buddha Bar brand in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, Monte Carlo and Washington all of which are frequented by the A-list celebrity crowd. Now Russia is joining the club as Buddha Bar opens its doors in St. Petersburg. The new Buddha Bar brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and ultrachic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha Bar will prove popular with the cocktails crowd and fans of far-Eastern cuisine. Q Open 17:00 - 02:00, Wed - Sat 17:00 - 05:00. . PAESW

Dva Piva Pazhalusta! Two beers please!

Russian Empire D-3, Nevsky pr. 17, Stroganov palace, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 43, old. concord-catering.ru/restaurants/russian-ampir/. The three luxurious dining rooms each have their own individual atmosphere and all are decorated genuinely in the finest style. Diners eat from Gianni Versace porcelain plates and drink wine out of Bohemian crystal glasses whilst surrounded by 24-carat gold ornaments, in what once was part of Stroganoff Palace. The wine and cognac list is extensive and rather exclusive: an armagnac from 1812 can be ordered just by the spoonful! Q Open 17:00 until last guest. . PTALEW Victoria D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www. taleonimperialhotel.com. A new conceptual menu offers the unique treat of luxurious, yet classic Russian dishes which are related to nearby landmarks - many of which are visible from the lofty terrace or floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Nevsky prospekt and the Moika canal. The sumptuous menu gives the history of the dish as well as the site, creating a meal for both body and mind. Fine dining staples included are meat, fish and game in this royal parlour of a restaurant at the top of the Taleon Imperial Hotel. Breakfast buffet and business lunch also on offer. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. . PTALEW

Shchyot budte dobry - Check please!


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Restaurants
MarketPlace D-3, Nevsky pr. 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 981 854 48 33, www.market-place.me. This democratic self-service chain on the main street of the city has a view overlooking Kazan Cathedral. The menu features dishes created in various corners of the world, which is prepared before your eyes and using only the freshest ingredients. The owners idea was create a place that would resemble a market where one could find anything from Asian specialties to Russian classics, from Oliviye salad to French dishes. This location is spread out over three floors and yet it is almost always busy. This restaurant format is quite popular in Europe: affordable prices, quick preparation, fresh ingredients, and an open kitchen. It is now becoming popular in Russian too it seems, as there are now five Marketplace locations throughout the city. Also at 7-ya liniya 34/2 (metro Vasileostrovskaya), Moskovsky pr. 21 (metro Tekhnologichesky institut), pl. Konstitutsii 3 (metro Moskovskaya) and nab. Chyornoy rechki 41/7 (metro Chernaya rechka). QOpen 08:30 - 06:00. . PASW Romeos Bar and Kitchen C-3, Pr. RimskogoKorsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Having opened its doors in late October, Romeos fills a void in one of St. Petersburgs most beautiful neighborhoods. Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, Romeos offers some of the highest quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city (one is usually easy to find, but not both). The dcor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a childrens menu is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains. All ingredients were fresh and the portions were reasonable. But most of all youll like the prices. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. . PTALSW Teplichnye usloviya D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 25/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 56 59, www.teplichnie. ru. If you love Russian and European cooking with a minimalist interior then welcome to Teplichnye Usloviya! It has the decor of a rustic cottage in a village and is made to resemble a greenhouse in the cottage of a Soviet elite in the 1930s. This place is well known for their homemade fruit and berry compotes and the menu offers a mix of Russian and European cuisine featuring traditional Russian borsch, homemade chicken cutlets with potatoes, as well as Italian pastas, and special creations of the chef, as well as original desserts such as beet or cucumber sorbet and a cherry tree tort. They also have boardgames on offer for guests to play, as well as film screenings of classics. Q Open Mon - Thu, Sun 11:00 until last guest, Fri, Sut 11:00 - 05:00. . PASW Terrassa D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 937 68 37, www.terrassa.ru. Terrassa is yet another Ginza project, this one featuring an open kitchen, wonderful views from the sixth floor that almost make you feel like youre in the sky, and stylish interiors. The menu is gargantuan, almost shocking: each turn of the page is like discovering a new restaurant. A short list of the cuisines on offer include Georgian, Russian, Thai, pan-Asian, sushi, pastas, pizzas, salads, seafood, and soups: you name it and they seemingly seem to have it on the menu. The wine list is extensive and features an elite wine section with bottles priced up to 430,000Rbl. The resident DJs make this restaurant almost feel like a club, but the music is not overpowering. There are etiquette classes for children on Saturdays. Q Open 11:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. . PAULVESW st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants
Italian
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 941 90 90, www.brerabar.ru/. A new and interesting menu has appeared on the Italian gastronomic map of the city. BRERA Bar is named in honour of the famous quarter of Brera in Milan, which is famous for its restaurants, museums, art galleries, and fashion boutiques. The chef has created a menu that features not only Italian classics, but also Russian and European dishes in interesting new interpretations. Every Friday BRERA Bar hosts an evening of Milanese aperitifs and free and unlimited Italian appetizers are served after any drink is ordered. We think that this is a great way to spend a Friday night out. It is not a very large restaurant, so reservations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. . PASW

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Italy C-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 58, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)

BRERA Bar C-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteis-

812 900 63 33, www.italy-cafe.ru. The chef spent six years in Italy, learning the secrets of Italian cooking - and it is felt in every dish.The pasta is prepared fresh for each individual diner as you can observe with your very own eyes, courtesy of the open kitchen. In addition to traditional Italian dishes of pizza and pasta, they have surprisingly well done stir-fries or grilled fish and meat. Wash it all down with their sublime homestyle lemonade. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PASW

Little Italy D-3, Italyanskaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel.

Vegetarian
Idiot C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 16 75, www.idiot-spb.com. With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal! QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. . PTASW Kashmir E-3, Ul. Bolshaya Moskovskaya 7, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 575 63 69. Dont come here expecting your classical Indian cuisine. Its far too hippy for that. They do esoteric Indian vegetarian fare, complete with fresh fruit garnish though dill also seems to be considered a staple here, as does a cucumber and tomato array that is often quite out of place. Theyve got samosas and dahl, raita, soy steaks and a lot of dishes we cant pronounce (even though there is an English menu). Its nowhere near the best Indian in town by a long shot, but its edible and the business lunch is a good deal. Q Open 10:00 until last guest. . PAUESW Ukrop E-3, Ul. Marata 23, MVladimirskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 946 30 36, www.cafe-ukrop.ru. This quaint vegetarian cafe is a nice place to relax and grab a healthy meal that wont break the bank. On the first floor there is a counter where you can order already prepared food for a quick bite and on the second floor is a full-service restaurant. Its interior with books on the windowsills, green plants and waterfalls creates a refreshing atmosphere that leaves you relaxed when you leave. The friendly waiters bring complimentary mint water to each guest and explain the menu, which includes vegetarian, vegan and raw food options. And, for those of you who are artistically inclined, feel free to draw with the colored pencils that sit on each table! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. . PTALGSW

E.D.A. i kofe -2, Ul. Kirochnaya 8A, MChernyshevs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 21 98, www.edaikofe.ru. The interiors of Food and Coffee, as the name translates, allow guests to imagine that they are on the beach with their blue walls and comfortable sofas that resemble lounge chairs. The guest just has to remember to turn on their fantasy button. As one doesnt want to relax on an empty stomach, order the pumpkin soup, salmon steak, and, of course, dont forget the coffee. This place is perfect for breakfast, lunch, or dinner and will lighten your mood with its meditation on good weather, a rarity in St. Petersburg. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . PTASW

(+7) 812 571 23 50, www.littleitalytrattoria.ru. Small, simple, relaxed and friendly, Little Italy really feels like an authentic little trattoria that you would be delighted to have stumbled upon in a Tuscan side-street never mind in the centre of St. Petersburg. Located in what used to be an icecream parlour theyve kept the old venues Venetian theme and added a pizza oven and small open kitchen. They do the basics very well and the long experience of the highly qualified Italian chef is visible in everything which is served. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 01:00. . PTASW

Sukhoe - Dry Sladkoe - Sweet

Makaronniki C-2, Dobrolyubova pr. 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. A rooftop restaurant atop a business centre adjacent to Zenits current stadium, Makaronniki gets 11 out of 10 for style points with their summer terrace, complete with hammocks, bright blue wooden gazebos, chaise lounges and even a sandbox for the kids. As for the food, when getting out of the lift youre immediately assaulted by the heavily aromas of bubbling Italian sauces and spices coming from the open kitchen next to the hostess podium. Their small menu boasts delectable pizzas, a slew of pasta options and soups and salads for the light eaters, plus daily specials. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. . PTAW

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Restaurants
Steak Houses
Korova Bar E-3, Ul. Karavannaya 8, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 314 73 48, www.decadencegroup.ru. With cattle skins covering the walls, the Korova (cow) Bar is an elegant and comfortable restaurant where the chefs know their meat - American marbled beef - and how to prepare it. In their words Korova Bar does NOT recommend well-done and quite right, too. Vegetarians dont have to worry: Korova has many salads, some fish dishes and great desserts or they can load up on scrumptious sides, like cheesy baked potatoes and creamed spinach. They also offer delivery or uncooked cuts, the latter at a discount, of course. Also at Moskovsky pr. 97 (metro Moskovskie vorota). Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. . PTALSW

Restaurants

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Ribai D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. +7 (812)


912 96 21, www.ribai.ru. A good juicy steak in St Petersburg is something of a delicacy, thus specialty restaurants are relatively rare and expectedly pricy. The appropriately named Ribai is a very welcome addition to the otherwise dreary scene: given the nature of the cuisine it offers tremendous beef selections at competitive rates. However, should you opt for something other than steak theres another pleasant surprise in store. Following the glorious traditions of an American eatery the portions are mammoth and their delicious entrees (other than seafood) are priced below whats expected from a joint that looks as classy as Ribai does. Dont miss Ribai Borsch, a house specialty that successfully blends the cornerstone soup of Russian cuisine with Western flavors. Q Open 11:00 until last guest. . PTAVESW

Stroganoff Steakhouse C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. Marcellis D-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Marcellis is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), although its the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. With an open kitchen, Marcellis offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya, open 11:00 - 24:00) and pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya, open 12:00 - 24:00). QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. . PTASW

Sea Food
Fish House D-3, Grivtsova per. 4, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 448 22 77, www.fish-spb.ru. Fish, fish, more fish and seafood - this is one for the piscivores, although with a good beef stroganoff on the menu carnivores will be happy too. Here you will find a wide choice of fish from all over Russia and the world: nelma from Siberia, muksun from Altay, sterlet from Arkhanglesk, halibut from Murmansk, coregonus from Karelia and the smelt from Ladoga. This very plain looking fish house specialises in American style fish grills - the portions are huge as well as the massive ceramics they arrive on. We enjoyed the trout with spinach, although it took a long time to grill it to perfection. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. . PTAULESW

4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 55 14, www. stroganoffsteakhouse.ru. If steak is your thing, a visit to this deluxe ranchhouse, perfect for the modern sophisticated cattleman, is sure to satisfy. The rich leather upholstery, the green bankers lamps, the sepia pictures from the bygone era are nothing compared to the delicious food. The steaks are the main attraction, but the buffalo wings and everything else on the menu are also worthy support acts to the main steak event. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAULESW

Caviar
Black Caviar is the jewel of Russia and it is an important part of celebrating important occasions. And it is so simple. Grab a spoon and dip it in and enjoy. Russians also love to have pancakes and caviar. It is quite common for Russians of all origins to have caviar on bread as an entre. A lot of people actually prefer red caviar to the more expensive and luxurious black caviar. For many the taste is the same. But lets leave it to you to try out. Caviar comes from the processed salted roe of various fish, most significantly the sturgeon. This is where the very best black caviar comes from and it is priced accordingly. Factor in that the sturgeon is now endangered and you will not wonder how prices can be so high. Some countries have banned all sturgeon imports due to overfishing. In Russia, you will need to ask for ikra, which means roe. One fish alone can be worth up to tens of thousands in black caviar. Where you can buy it? Markets, Eliseevsky, Vladimirsky Passage (see page 51). You probably cant get it in your local prodykti or supermarket but generally most places which stock a good range of products will have it and of course restaurants will include it on their menus. What to beware of? Outside some tourist attractions, i.e. the Hermitage or the Russian Museum or the Church on Spilled Blood, you may be offered some caviar in tins from sellers.

Rossis (Grand Hotel Europe) D-3, Grand Hotel Eu-

rope, ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 37, www.grandhoteleurope.com. If you need to discuss delicate matters with your (business) partner and you want to sit in a luxurious place resembling a small Mediterranean castle with an excellent view to the street, then head to Rossis. Their Italian chef Giuseppe DAgostino really knows his stuff and offers dishes from all over the country, from the spices of the Neapolitan region that he hails from to gnocci from the north. Service is impeccable, the wine list likewise and each generous portion of delicate but hearty pastas, antipastas and the like will leave you in gastronomic heaven. Be sure to try any of the specially prepared carpaccios, they are divine. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTALEW

govsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764 44 13, www.mtishina. ru. Established in 1999 by a member of the international gastronomic society Chaine des Rotisseurs, Sailors Silence is one of the best restaurants in the city, which is slightly at odds with the at times kitschy decor (lots and lots of nautical knick knacks and even a singing plastic fish) and soundtrack (classic French crooners overlaid with the sound of crashing surf and seagulls). All of which quickly fades away when you are served anything from their menu, as everything is almost indecently scrumptious. Conceived in the finest culinary traditions are recipes inspired by regional delicacies all over France and the results are awe-inspiring. The wine list is equally immaculate as is the service. An absolute must for fruits de mer lovers. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTASW

Matrosskaya Tishina E-3, Ul. Marata 54/34, MLi-

To read about even more restaurants and cafes in St. Peterburg check out our website st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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Restaurants
Cafe Singer D-3, Nevsky pr. 28 (Dom Knigi 1st floor), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 23. A long while back there used to be a terrible coffee shop here run by some of the most incompetent and unfriendly waiters in the city. Thankfully all traces of that establishment have completely disappeared. In its place you will find a large caf serving decent coffee and cakes as well as classic Russian dishes like borsch and pelemeni. The staff here will actually look you in the eye and bring you your menu/cappuccino/bill when you ask them for it and they can even be caught smiling sometimes too. Combine that with a great view and stunning art nouveau fittings and you can understand why it always seems to be so full. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. . PAGS Sviter s Olenyami D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 22, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 58 00, www.buffet.ru. Sviter s olenyami or Sweater with Deer is a self-proclaimed fake hipster buffet on Griboedova kanal. While it definitely caters to the hipster crowd with its corduroy covered furniture and wayfarer sporting wooden deer head on the wall, there is something for everyone. An extensive drink list featuring clever drink names such as Rudolphs Nose, and a menu section with 30 ruble tasty treats to accompany liter pitchers of alcohol makes it more of a drinking place than a regular restaurant. However, the ski-lodge inspired interior with its dim lighting, big window seats and chopped firewood decor provides a comfy place to relax no matter what time of day. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. . PTAEW Idealnaya Chashka D-3, Nevsky pr. 32/34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 06, www.idealcup.ru. The Ideal Cup is St. Petersburgs most successful coffee-house chain; it has a couple of pleasant cafes on Nevsky prospekt alone. It serves good coffee in all forms imaginable including alcoholic and non-alcoholic coffee cocktails, at decent prices. The cakes, while very sweet - in true Russian tradition - are great, particularly the Black Forest. It can get rather busy here. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. . PTASW Smalldouble D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 932 82 17, www.smalldouble.com. This tiny, non-smoking coffee shop on Kazanskaya ul. has a huge selection of coffees that can be made for you using various preparation methods as you wish. They also have a large selection of teas, homemade pastries, candies, and cookies, and three types of sandwiches served on freshly-baked ciabatta bread. The friendly atmosphere is enhanced by its open format where customers can observe and even chat with the cooks while they are preparing your food. Q Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. . PAGSW
The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. On a night out in this wild town, youll find unique performances and eccentric people everywhere!

nightlife

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Bars and Pubs


Abeerdeen E-2, Liteiny pr. 10, MChernyshevskya, tel. (+7) 812 400 22 17, www.abeerdeen.ru. Somehow theyve managed to make medieval elegant instead of gimmicky at this Scottish gastro pub. The hammered silver finishings and rough wood is in harmonious accord with subtle tartan wallpaper and photographs. Which is dangerous considering how extensive their whiskey selection is - hands down the best in the city. Throw in pleasant, helpful staff, massive portions of delicious pub grub and you may find youve spent everything in your wallet and are not the least bit sad about it. In case your wondering, haggis is indeed available - but bring your adventurous friends, as the minimal order is a whopping three kilos. QOpen 11:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PAESW Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Dont forget to try the breakfast here - its a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that youll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. PALSW James Cook D-2, Shvedsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 951 22 02, www.jcpub.ru. This popular tavern in a vintage basement features one of the longest bars in town. The cellar is divided into two halves, one for the consumption of coffee and cakes, the other reserved for the harder stuff. Not only are the draft beers diverse and poured expertly, there is a wide range of tempting snacks to accompany your beverage of choice, including some great steaks served up on a wooden butchers block. Also at Kamennoostrovsky pr. 45 (metro Petrogradskaya). QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PAESW
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly.su. A newly hewn branch of the popular Mollies pub. The Mews lacks the old-fashioned battered and bruised bar clutter which has been worn-in over 15 year at the original pub on Rubinsteina ulitsa. What they are missing in history they make up for in space however. Mollies Mews is much bigger than its legendary parent, meaning theres space now for live Celtic folk bands who drum up a jolly atmosphere and draw the big crowds on Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAESW tel. (+7) 812 275 61 41. Pickwick is a real English pub through and through. The staff exchange friendly banter with the punters, theres premiership football on the tv, real ales on tap and pickled eggs on the bar. The cosy interior is a beautiful recreation of a London victorian pub complete with hand-carved wood fittings, a real fireplace and antique stained glass fittings. Order a pint of one of twenty on tap and settle in for some jolly good fun with the chaps. Tallyho old chum! Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun, Mon 12:00 - 01:00 PASW

Mollies Mews D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 5,

(+7) 812 570 46 25, www.shamrock.spb.ru. This cosy Irish pub opposite the Mariinsky Theatre has a great atmosphere, 13 types of beer and seriously good food. Sometimes dancers of the Mariinsky come here incognito for a drink after their performance. Otherwise the pleasant companionship of Russians and expats creates an enjoyable and unpredictable evening. Hear traditional live Irish music on Wednesday and on Sunday night various folk musicians meet up for a jam session. The Shamrock also shows international sport events on 3 big screens, including English Premiership football, American NFL, rugby and local sport favourites Zenit and SKA. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAESW

Shamrock C-3, Ul. Dekabristov 27, MSadovaya, tel.

Pickwick Pub E-2, Ul. Ryleeva 6, MChernyshevskaya,

Telegraph E-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 74 79, www.pub-telegraph.ru. This stylish British pub, situated in a cosy cellar not far from Nevsky Prospekt, is an easy meeting place for beer lovers, which is why it can be enjoyably crowded here. Another plus is the big screen for live football and other sports matches. In some ways it is a bit of a lonely old mans pub where you can find dozens of single men whove got no one to cook for them having a plate of bangers and mash on their lonesome. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PALESW The Office Pub D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. This elegant Irish pub not far from Kazan Cathedral attracts locals, expats and tourists who mingle over shots and beers. They have a wide selection of beer on draught including Guinness, Belgian cherry beer and just about everything in between. Its one of those offices where you dont mind staying late, but doing overtime definitely has the opposite effect on your wallet. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PALSW

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Nightlife
taniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass. ru. Another local homage to Russias love affair with British culture. The interior nods to all the usual British stereotypes with portraits of the royals, big leather armchairs downstairs to lean back in with a pipe and theres also even a bright red room labeled ye olde curiosity shoppe in the sprawling area upstairs. Bass brews obviously feature heavily on the menu, alongside numerous other real ales. The location makes it a perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW

Nightlife
William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Voss-

41

Clubs
(+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru. Set in supposedly the site of the first disco in St. Petersburg (then Leningrad in the 1970s), Avrora has recently been taken over by Yaroslav Pomogaykin of Jagger Club fame. It bills itself as an entertainment complex and certainly has grand ambitions with a bowlshaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during concerts and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King, which features smaller concerts and other events. The programme features a mix of pop, rock, folk, punk, and alternative concerts as well as disco nights and after parties. In much of the club there is an amazing view of the Big Nevka River and the Avrora Cruiser. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. PLEW

Purga E-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya,

Avrora E-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel.

tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. There are two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga I celebrates New Years Eve every night complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table and make sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities begin. QOpen 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Artsy and Underground


Atelier Bar D-3, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 998 12 90, www.atelierbar.ru. This three storey, rough-at-the-edges bar/club, just round the corner from the hectic Dumskaya bar street, has a bit of squat feel to it but is moving with the times and has updated its interiors to make things a little more comfortable.The crumbling concrete walls have been given a lick of pain and the toilets have become less sess-pit style than previously. Atelier attracts a predominately grungy student set and can feel a bit too young for some. The music is as unpredictable as the face control but given the proximity of so many other bars you can always hop out and try another venue and pop in later to see how things are swinging. Q Open 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PEW Borodabar D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 923 89 40, www.borodabar.ru. This hole-inthe-wall sized bar is a happy addition to St. Petersburgs burgeoning underground bar scene. Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldnt be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior reflects the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists and reclaimed items of cheap furniture. Staff are very friendly and the DJ sets are often very good. Q Open 17:00 until last guest. ESW Cafe-Bar Produkty E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 54. Produktys owner apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both design and vibe the inspiration really shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox and retro favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while for drinks its cocktails which take forever to construct or bottles of beer. Just to make you feel extra special, you have to ring the door bell to get in. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAEW
tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. Theyre smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ whos sharing space with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet rules are interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet down the bowl? QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 06:00. PASW

Radiobaby D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 7, MNevsky pr., www.

Dva Mohito Two Mojitos please!


812 929 82 98, www.project-barrel.ru. This slick black and neon looking place has got a bit of an attitude to it - one that says dress rich and spend money. Their cocktails are good compared to the sad orange juice and vodka (the screwdriver) that you may get served in the average bar, although they take a long time to arrive. Theres also an elaborate menu done up like a glossy magazine offering a bit of everything, but primarily this is a place to sit in your fox fur stole with a martini and look down at the fellow wannabe VIPs in attendance - until its pole dancing time, of course. Free karaoke on Wednesday nights and frequent guest DJs at the weekend. Q Open 12:00 until last guest, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PAESW

Barrel D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

radiobaby.com. With its high ceilings and groovy modern dcor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and to the left. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

Show Hall Atmosfera Lesnoy pr. 48, MLesnaya, tel.

(+7) 812 907 62 62, www.showhall-atmosfera.ru. The theatrical and gloriously kitsch Show Hall Atmosfera encompasses all kinds of entertainment under one roof. Here youll find a festive atmosphere with larger-than-life shows featuring not only well-known singers, but also dancing fountains, colourful laser shows and sometimes even acrobats. The interior is beyond imagination with huge pillars inspired by Greek Gods surrounding the immense amphitheatre style set-up. Not just a place for dancing and enjoying live entertainment, Atmosfera also boats an extensive menu of European and Asian cuisine. Q Open Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Entrance to the show 500Rbl. PTALVESW

Mishka E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr.,

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Nightlife
Live Music Clubs
St. Petersburgs live music scene is really buzzing and there are a wide range of live music clubs to choose from where you can catch new and up-and-coming Russian bands. For the better known names you should head to the bigger concert halls such as A2, Cosmonavt, Avrora, Dada or Zal Ozhidaniya. A2 and Avrora in particular, are very large and modern clubs, with multiple stages, and are great places for seeing foreign touring club acts and established local groups. If you prefer to step into the underground there are a number of great intimate venues to choose from. Fish Fabrique and the GEZ-21 experimental sound centre in the neighbouring Pushkinskaya art centre usually tend towards rock, indie and alternative bands, while intimate clubs such as Dada are also favourites for underground rock and punk bands. Avrora club E-2, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru Club A2 D-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www. cosmonavt.su Club Zal Ozhidaniya D-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www. clubzal.com. Dada D-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 47, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 921 424 39 69, www.dadaclub.ru Fish Fabrique E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57, www.fishfabrique.ru GEZ D-3 Pushkinskaya 10, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 58, www.gez21.ru

sightseeing
Cocktail bars
tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW

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Bar 812 E-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya,

Daiquiri Bar D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1, MNevsky

pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Jazz and Blues


JFC Jazz Club E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club.spb.ru. Its hard to believe that this intimate, little club can hold more than 100 people. It has a stage, a handful of tables and standing space around the bar, for the people who forget to book a table. Its popular with the citys artsy scene and with people who know their jazz. It has original performances by top-notch musicians playing just about anything from experimental jazz, to acid jazz to blues. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. PUEW

Graf-in C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com. The English meaning of grafin is carafe which is fitting since the place is decorated with them. With its trendy interior, attractive staff and state of the art hookahs, it is clear that Grafin caters to the more glamorous crowd. Wearing casual street clothes may make you feel a little uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Grafin offers a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard drinks as well as more unusual cocktails like the delicious Berry Cheesecake. An extensive food menu includes the usual Italian and Asian selections, plus other dishes like sea bass and steaks. A separate menu gives you the option to order hookahs for 1,500 - 2,500Rbl an hour, during which the tobacco is changed four times. During the week its pretty quiet, but on the weekends you should reserve a table. Luckily, all table reservations are free! QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTAESW Zing Bar D-3, Lomonosova ul. 14, MDostoevskaya. Cocktails, Russias beautiful artistic youth and a wicked soundtrack (yes, rock music instead of the Caf del Mar soundtrack, its possible!) are the draw cards of this stylish little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not so much so that you cant actually see anyone or anything as can be experienced elsewhere. In another seemingly innovative move its all non-smoking and theres little in the way of face control. The menu focuses on the classics and is historically separated into old (19th Century), recent and modern sections which also includes their own Russian influenced creations. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAGW

Photo by Ilya Shchegolev St. Petersburgs World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europes greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

The Essentials
nastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russias greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monasterys bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Monastery 06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity Cathedral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but its one of the citys most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it the mosaic church because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl. MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.aurora. org.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl.

Aleksander Nevsky Monastery F-4, Nab. reky Mo-

Kazan Cathedral D-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peters in Rome, is one of the citys most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, its a quiet place and they dont like you to talk a lot in here, its place of prayer and contemplation. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab.

Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab.

Jimi Hendrix Blues Club E-3, Liteiny pr. 33, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club. ru. Russian blues stars play songs with their soul and other instruments on a small stage in this intimate cellar. Here it feels as though Jimmy Hendrix is still alive - if he is, hes probably a frequent visitor! The kitchen serves excellent Russian and Georgian food. If you wonder why it takes so long before you get your order: its all made fresh. We recommend booking a table in advance, the joint is always packed. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAE The Hat Bar E-2, Ul. Belinskogo 9, MChernyshevskaya.
If you add whiskey and jazz together you get The Hat. The Hat boasts 30 different types of whiskey and nine different types of bourbon. However, if you arent a huge whiskey fan, the expert barmen can create any drink or cocktail you desire. The bar is designed to look like an old-time American bar that you would see in classic Hollywood road movies. There is live music everyday and when the live music stops, jazz plays continuously in the background. The soothing jazz rhythms are accompanied by the clanking of drink glasses and lively chatter, which creates a vibrant atmosphere that is sure to brighten anyones mood. QOpen 17:00 until last guest. PEW

3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburgs oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peters Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

Cruiser Avrora D-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab.,

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Hermitage
Russian Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3,
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburgs first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandants House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineers House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters at your own risk. Q The fortress is open 08:30 - 20:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 280Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Audioguide 200-250Rbl.

sightseeing
Churches and Monasteries
tel. (+7) 812 373 61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. When a messenger told Empress Catherine the Great about the Russian victory over the Turkish Fleet at the Bay of Chesma, she immediately decided to have a church built on the spot she was standing. Ten years later, in 1780, the foreign looking, white and red striped building was finished. Across from the church stands the neo-gothic Chesma palace. It served as a stopping ground for Catherine on her way to Tsarskoye Selo. It was also where Rasputin was laid in state after his murder. The church served as a museum during Soviet times but was revived as a place of worship in 1999. The palace currently houses an elderly persons home. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00 (except Mon). Sat services 10:00, 18:00.

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Chesma Church Ul. Lensoveta 12, MMoskovskaya,

Troitsky Cathedral D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27. Although in need of some serious reconstruction, this cathedral still manages to impress because of its vastness and big blue domes which overlook the nearby Fontanka canal and a (clothing) market. The cathedral can hold up to 3000 people simultaneously. Inside look out for a special column, made of the iron of captured rifles during the Russian-Turkey war in 1877-1878. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00.

Hermitage C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance


from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. The director of the Hermitage once said, I cant say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but its certainly not the second. And with over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum cant fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks.

Smolny Cathedral F-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. The view over the city from this blue baroque cathedral is worth the climb to the top of one of the bell-towers. Smolny, once the centre-piece of a convent founded to educate young noblemen and women, is nowadays a concert and exhibition hall with an exhibition of Smolnys history on display. From the nearby neo-classical Smolny Institute, Lenin orchestrated the October Revolution in 1917. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Bell-tower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. Photo by Yan Bogomolov

Egypt on the Neva


Like most European Empires, the tsarist Russian empire was in love with monumental and exotic Egyptian symbolism. The most famous sphinxes in St. Petersburg are the citys only original pair. Situated on nab. Universitetskaya 7 (C-2, MVasileovstrovskaya) youll find two, 32 ton beasts carved from Aswan granite, which were brought here from Egypt in 1832. Hieroglyphs on the side of the monuments link them to Pharaoh Amunhotep of Thebes (1417 1379 BC) who was The builder of monuments rising to the sky. Further down the Neva on Nab. Robespyera (E-2, MChernyshevskaya) youll find Russias dark prince of the underground (formally known as Mikhail Shemyakin) monuments to the politically repressed. Inspired by their Egyptian brothers downstream, but situated opposite the Kresty prison where for centuries Russian political prisoners were held, these black beasts are half mythical feline creature and half emaciated ghoulish monsters.

The museums art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldnt miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. The ground floor houses the museums treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east.There is also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum just after the ticket offices).QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral. ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaacs is one of the worlds largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the domes top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. 03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Tsar Peter the Great created the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in 1704. Most of the trees and all 250 statues were imported from Italy. For a century, it was the exclusive domain of people of the highest rank. Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to well-dressed people, but these days they dont care what you wear. These statues have seen it all. Theres a display of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle, each one made by different blacksmiths. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission free.

St. Isaacs Cathedral D-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAd-

Summer Garden D-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314

St. Nicholas Cathedral C-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Built between 1753 and 1762, this blue and white cathedral is one of St. Petersburgs most beautiful. In the 18th century, this part of town was the sailors quarter, which is why the cathedral was named after Nicholas - the patron saint of sailors, and why locals sometimes call it the sailors church. The two-storey Baroque building has low ceilings and a warm and inviting interior. At the church gates on the Kryukov canal, there is an impressive four-story bell tower. Q Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free.

Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com April - May 2013

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Museums
Arctic and Antarctic Museum E-3, Ul. Marata 24a,
MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum.ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-convertedmuseum. It is filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts. Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and native wildlife. The first floor is dedicated to the Arctic while the upper level (up several hidden flights of stairs at the entrance) is all about the Antarctic. Though the signs are in Russian, the quirky museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The special treat is a dated but effective simulation of the northern lights. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl.

sightseeing
Lyrical City
53, M Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 72 39, www.akhmatova.spb.ru. In this former palace you can visit the flat where Russias greatest poetess lived for almost 30 years. Ten rooms chronologicall y represent ten eras. Photographs and artefacts from Akhmatovas hard and fascinating life are on display; books of her poetry that never left the printing house and letters from her imprisoned lover. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions of other artists. Audio-guides in English, German and French; free texts in English in the rooms. Q Open 10:30 - 18:30, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 60-200Rbl. Admission to the garden of the Fountain House free. Audioguide 100Rbl.

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Modern Art Centres


Anna Akhmatova Museum E-3, Liteiny pr. Creative space Weavers (Tkachi) E-4, Nab. Obvodnogo
kan. 60, MObvodny Kanal, tel. (+7) 812 319 25 85, www. tkachi.com. The fifth floor of the Tkachi Creative Space is a 2000-square-meter multifunctional area for exhibitions, performances, master classes, lectures, festivals, concerts, fairs and more. The space also includes a small bookshop named for Jorge Luis Borges and a cozy caf. The building is named after the Russian word for weavers (tkachi). The renovation of this former cotton-spinning and weaving mill was partially completed in 2010. At the moment only the first and fifth floor are in use while the others remain under renovation. On the first floor there are a lot of retail shops where you can buy designer clothes and bags (we especially like Banya Concept Store), eye glasses, books and even bicycles. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Special events 50 - 100Rbl.

Toss a coin
Russians are a superstitious bunch and all over St. Petersburg youll find various statues and monuments that locals believe will guarantee that lady luck shines your way. If you are in need of some good fortune heres where you should head. Little chizhik pizhik (Coming from the nursery rhyme, Chizhik Pizhik where have you been? Drinking vodka on the green), is a tiny little bronze bird installed on the wall of the Fontanka embankment. According to local legend if your coin lands on his little shelf, then you will one day return to St. Petersburg. Sometimes people love Chizhik so much they want to take him home with them and it is reported that the Museum of Urban Sculpture now has 12 extra Chizhiks in storage just in case. Chizhik Pizhik is also rumoured to help students to get through unhappy love-affairs and get around on public transport without having tickets. Thanks little Chizhik! Corner of nab. reky Fontanky and nab. reky Moiky. MNevsky pr.

Chizhik pizhik

MusEros, Museum of Erotica E-3, Ligovsky pr.

43/45,, MLigovsky pr. 43/45, tel. (+7) 812 905 03 94, www... The collection of the first real museum of erotica features several dozen exhibits spread out over five halls featuring everything from Japanese erotic engravings and time machines from the time of Catherine the Great to BDSM materials and Soviet propaganda posters. There is a 3D viewing hall on the premises as well showing soft core erotica, although it plans to show more educational programming in the future. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 490Rbl.

Russian Etnographic Museum E-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www. ethnomuseum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the lifestyle of Russias various native ethnic minorities? The Russian Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by different native cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Some information about exhibits is available in English. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission 50-350Rbl. Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.). Suvorov Memorial Museum F-2, Ul. Kirochnaya 43,
MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 39 14, www. suvorovmuseum.ru. Although this museum takes the name of Suvorov, the great war general of Empress Catherine the Great, it actually covers much more than the military accomplishments of one man. There are comparative history displays of war and battle of the 18th century all over Europe, the deeds of Napoleon and the uniforms and regalia of the time. The building itself is also worth seeing, built in 1904 following a decree from Nicholas II in a grand style to accentuate what is Russias first memorial museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Wed. Closed first Mon of the month. Admission 20-250Rbl.

E-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, w w w. md.spb.ru. Dostoevsk ys weathered corner-apartment is a two minute walk from the metro. The museum is divided into two sections: literar y and memorial (his apartment and belongings). The audio-guide will enrich the experience and lessen confusion. Displays include newspaper articles that inspired him and photographs of the house where The Brothers Karamazov story is set. Also gives fascinating biographical details about his arrest and exile. Whether you are interested in Dostoevskys brave character, turbulent life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 43 00. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people from 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 571 40 31.

F. M. Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum

(+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta museum is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The spectacularly restored five story building is separated into two parts - one a gallery where the works are for sale and the other a museum tracing the history of Russian modern art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian contemporary movement. Currently they have around 2000 works so make sure you give yourself some time. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in for up to 25 people 3,000Rbl per group by prior arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl.

Erarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art B-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.

Cat Vasilisa on Malaya Sadovaya

Literature Museum C-2, Nab. Makarova 4, M Sportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 05 02, www.pushkinskijdom.ru. Known as the Pushkin House, this museum preserves some real literary treasures. As well as works by Great Russian wri ters Lermontov and Tolstoy, you can find the writing-table of the great symbolist Blok. Did you know that the museum holds an astounding 12,000 manuscripts by poet Pushkin? The museum is situated on the second floor of the Institute for Russian Literature. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 200 - 350Rbl. Excursions from 1,000Rbl for 25 people group. st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square meter loft is located in a spectacular old building made of red bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second half of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Russia - you can smell it in the air. They have a specific atmosphere here and you can attend different exhibitions of European and Russian artists, art workshops and nice parties. They also have a little strawberry farm where Israeli bumblebees are working very hard on pollinating strawberry. Getting there: on Nevsky pr. take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special events 100-200Rbl.

During the great Siege of Leningrad, a large number of cats were specially brought to the city to try and combat the problem of an increasing rat population. This bronze cat, named Vasilisa, was put here in memory of those great feline defenders. Locals believe that if you can throw a coin up onto the ledge where she sits youll have a very lucky day. The cat itself however has not always been so lucky - she is known to regularly fall off her perch as people attempt to climb up there and collect the coins. If shes not there then she probably fell off again and is waiting in the burger house next door for someone to arrive with a ladder. Malaya Sadovaya, MNevsky pr.

The Hare saved from the flood

The Hare Saved from the Flood is a monument to a legend dating back to the first founding days of St. Petersburg. The story goes that, during the construction of the Peter and Paul fortress, Peter the Great (who lived in a cabin nearby) visited the building site one day and got very angry with his lazy carpenters. In fact he was so mad that he was ready to start kicking them all in the face, when seemingly from nowhere a hare suddenly jumped onto his boot in an apparent bid to save the workers. Fortunately Peter found the whole thing hilarious and decided to spare the workers and the hare. Now locals believe that its good luck if your coin lands on the little bunnys post in the water next to the bridge. Ioannovsky Most, Peter and Paul For tress, MGorkovskaya

The Griffins

The two griffins guarding the treasures of the State Academy of Arts on the Universitetskaya embankment, also supposedly protect the citys citizens too. Legend has it that if you stick your hand into the mouth of one of the two griffins and stroke its tongue, then it will grant you a wish in return. Theres only one catch though. Apparently you can only wish for something nice to happen to someone else. Universitetskaya nab. 11, MVasileostrovskaya

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Russian Souvenirs
Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special winter gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following:

sightseeing
Tours around St. Petersburg
(+7) 812 232 81 63, www.libertytour.ru. This travel company specialises in wheelchair accessible tours in and around St. Petersburg. The guided tours work with specially fitted transport vans and take in the regular sights such as the Hermitage as well as general sightseeing and to the city suburbs such as Peterhof. Tour length and prices vary from the 1hr Spilled Blood Tour up to the 5hr jaunt to Peterhof. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Tours from 1,000Rbl. AU

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Liberty Ltd, travel company for the disabled, tel.

Platok

A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a womans wedding ring.

Petersburg Voyage E-3, Ligovsky pr. 56-G, off. 609, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 967 513 26 80, www.petersburg-voyage.com. The Petersburg Voyage travel agency offers various private and group tours and excursions all over St. Petersburg, Russia and the surrounding area. Any personal itinerary of events and places can be accommodated, or visitors can join pre-existing tours and excursions, featuring many of the most popular sights. Petersburg Voyage only works with the best professional guides in St. Petersburg who are experienced, polite, and knowledgeable. Tourists needs are always put first and they so far have always left satisfied. Q TAU Peterswalk - Walking, Bicycle and Boat Tours
tel. (+7) 812 943 12 29, www.peterswalk.com. A diverse choice of tours and personalised routes, add in some extremely informative and downright friendly guides makes going on a Peters Walking Tour one of the best choices you can make while visiting St. Petersburg. Guides are extremely informative about architecture and history, as well as modern Russian society and with their alternative routes, they can show you how to escape the tourist traps and reveal the real city. By the end of your tour you feel inspired and educated. In the summer they also have bicycle tours and new canal boat tours: enjoy the view of Saint Petersburg sitting on a brand new comfortable boat with an open deck at the back and a sun-roof inside area in the front. Q Original walking tour daily 10:30 (Vladimirsky pr. 1). Walking tour 650Rbl.

Gatchina 45km south of St. Petersburg, Palace: Krasnoarmeisky pr. 1, tel. (+7) 813 719 34 92. It may have the austere look of a military institution, but inside you can see that the Gatchina Palace was home to the Romanov family, although the rooms are not so luxurious as the palace in Pushkin. The palace has various temporary and permanent exhibitions including a weaponry display and the church at the top of Gatchinas main pedestrian mall is also worth seeing. But the big attraction is the underground tunnel running from the palace to the ornamental lake (how cool!). Gatchinas palace was badly damaged during WWII, and restoration work is still in progress. The nice leafy park is a great place to stretch your legs! Q Admission to the park is free. Palace admission: 60 - 300Rbl. Audioguide 200Rbl. GETTING THERE: from Moskovskaya metro, take bus N431 or marshrutka K18; or from Baltisky station, take a train to Gatchina station, which is also (confusingly) called Baltisky. Park open 24hrs. Palace open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and the first Tue of the month.

Pier with Lions


Central Landing-Stage Pier with Lions D-2, Admiralteiskaya nab. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 08 77, www.boattrip.ru. One of the joys of St. Petersburg is the chance to go boating along the canals and rivers. You really get a different perspective of the city from the water and the reflections of the coloured sky and palaces are enchanting. At the central landing-stage Pier with Lions they offer regular water water trips every hour along the Neva River, the Gulf of Finland, the citys canals and even to the fountains of Peterhof. They have tours with audioguides in different languages, special jazz tours, BBQ evenings, a bar and a VIP lounge. Boat tours will depart daily from mid-April. QAdmission: tickets for adults range from 400 - 1,000Rbl. Online booking and discount for children, students and return tickets. PAUTKE

Shapka ushanka

If you want to look as much a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you need to get a Russian fur hat or shapka ushanka with ear flaps. Anything with red stars on earns you double spot-the-tourist points. Most of the things you can get in markets are made from fake fur, but real fur hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur shops for a hefty price.

Valenki

Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware that are specially designed for walking in deep snow. They usually have no firm rubber soles (just the basic shape of a boot) so if you want to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber kaloshes to cover them with to ensure that they dont get damaged. Made from sheeps wool, it is said that they are so warm and well insulated that you can wear them with no socks on. In fact wearing them without socks is said to be good for you as the rough wool exfoliates the skin.

Sptn!k C-2, Birzhevaya liniya 16 (VO), MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 418 35 11, www.sptnik.com. Those who want to get down and really meet the locals rather than just sweatily bumping into them in metro carriages and late night clubs should check out the ambitious new tourist guide service offered by sptn!k. Its a simple scheme whereby local volunteers take visitors into the best parts of their daily life; whether it be hidden Soviet-era cafes, roof top vistas, communal apartments or quirky courtyards, every tour is unique, insightful and enlightening. Envisaged as a cross-cultural project they aim to give tourists a slice of real life and show them their favourite parts of the city which tourists might never get to see, whilst also giving their foreign guests the chance to meet and get to know real citizens of St. Petersburg. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Guided tours in English up to 1,200Rbl. Some free tours are also available. Groups up to 15 people. AUW

Konstantinovsky Palace Strelna, Beryozovaya al.

Vodka and Caviar

They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands come out under the Russky standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.

3, tel. (+7) 812 438 53 50, www.konstantinpalace. ru. Once known as Putins Palace, this palace is now one of the official Presidential residences. The Palace as also the venue for the G8 meeting in 2006. Historically speaking, the Palaces original owners were the Romanovs, however after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays, the public can enjoy the immaculate and tidy lawns. Inside the palace are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from 18th to 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter (this is also an official government building). Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Call before you visit the palace, to make sure its not closed for an official function. You must show your passport when you enter. Admission 170 - 270Rbl. Excursions 2,000 3,000Rbl up to 20 people group. GETTING THERE: from Prospekt Veteranov metro, take marshrutka 392, 343, 850 or any marshrutka labelled Petrodvoretz and alight at Strelna. From Avtovo metro take marshrutka 300, 424, 424-. Alternatively take an electrichka from Baltiiskaya Station to Strelna.

Kronshtadt, www.nash-kronshtadt.ru. The strategic naval base of Kronshtadt was founded on Kotlin island in 1704. Kronshtadt is famous because, in 1921, its battalion mutinied against the Bolsheviks harsh revolutionary policies. The governments response was to slaughter almost the entire battalion. During Soviet times, the city was closed. It opened in 1996, and, today, its a charming place to wander and look at rusting warships, naval symbols and other remains of Soviet naval glory. Krohnstadts striking Byzantine cathedral has an excellent museum of naval and local history, although its only in Russian. There are also some very pleasant old restaurants scattered about the area. GETTING THERE: from Chernaya Rechka metro, take marshrutka 405, 406, from Staraya Derevnya metro, take bus 101, from Pr. Prosveshcheniya metro, take marshrutka 407.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2013

50

sightseeing
Oranienbaum / Lomonosov Grand Palace: Dvortsovy
pr. 48, Lomonosov, tel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, www.oranienbaum.org. Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isnt so popular among tourists, however it is a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, One of Peter the Greats best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikovs Grand Palace hasnt changed a great deal over the centuries and its one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that wasnt destroyed by the Nazis. There are numerous development plans in progress in Oranienbaum, also known as Lomonosov. You can have a cheap Russian dinner in a cafe near the administration building , the only place in the park where you can buy food or drinks. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces 10:30 - 17:00. Park admission free. Palaces 100 - 400Rbl. Excursions 750 - 900Rbl up to 30 people group. GETTING THERE: from Avtovo metro, take bus 200 or marshrutka 300, 424A (direction Lomonosov, 40min); or from Baltiisky station, take a train bound for Oranienbaum, Kalishe or Krasnoflotsk.

shopping
Pushkin/Tsarskoe Selo 24km south of St. Petersburg, www.tzar.ru. Tsarskoye selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of St. Petersburgs most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries Tsarskoye Selo or the Royal Village was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkins many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherines Palace to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied. Q Catherine Park open 07:00 - 21:00. Catherines Palace open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Park admission free. Catherine Palace admission 100 - 320Rbl, audioguide 150Rbl. GETTING THERE: From Vitebsky station, take a train to Detskoe Selo station, from there you can walk to Catherines palace (20 min) or take bus N371 or N382. The Alexander Palace is around a 10 minute walk from the Catherine Palace along Dvortsovaya ulitsa. From Moskovskaya metro station, take marshrutka N286, 287, 342, 347, 545.

51

Bookshops
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A Biblioteka Projector E-3, 4th floor, Loft Project Etagi, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. +7 911 218 74 39. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. AKW Bukvoed D-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy D-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AK

Anglia E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 579 80 07, www.britannia-spb.ru. QOpen

Flower Etiquette
If giving flowers to someone, you have no need to fear. A nice bunch of blooms is always acceptable. That is, if you give an odd number. Even numbers are only for funerals and the dead. As to what type of flower is a good one usually depends on the recipient. The red rose is considered as romantic in Russia as it is in most other countries. Take note though that due to the tradition of only giving an odd number, there can be no dozen red roses just eleven. Yellow roses signify friendship. Tulips are used to express sympathy, yet yellow tulips hint to a hidden love. Orchids celebrate beauty and chrysanthemums undying youth and health.

Gifts and Souvenirs


Art - Boutique Dynasty C-2, VO, 6-ya Liniya 3, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 09 19. QOpen
Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, www.lacquerbox.net. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Nevsky Souvenir Shop D-3, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.nevskysouvenir.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Onegin Art Gallery souvenirs and paintings D-3, Ul. Italyanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 00 58, www.onegin-gallery.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30. AUL Pavloposadskie Platki Shop E-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki. ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

La Petite Opera Gallery D-3, Grand Hotel Europe and

10:00 - 19:00. AU

Galeria
Galeria D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. A huge shopping mall that is not actually stuck out on the highway to Finland. Sitting right next to the Moscow railway station Galeria house hundreds of high street brands like Toshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection, a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and restaurants. The top floor boasts a massive arcade for young and young-at-heart. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW

www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Accurately referred to as the Russian Versailles, Peterhof (pronounced Petergof in Russian) is one of Russias number one tourist attractions. It is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff. Other museums worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house were Peter the Great used to organise parties for his closest (and rowdiest) friends. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 18:00, Thu 10:30 - 21:00. Closed last Tue of the mounth. Admission to park is free. Admission Great Palace 100 - 400Rbl. Tour booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06. GETTING THERE: from Baltiisky station, take a train to Peterhof station or bus 350, 351, 352, 356, or marshrutka 404. From metro Avtovo, take marshrutka 224, 300 or 424 and from metro Leninsky pr. take marshrutka 103.

Peterhof Palace and Park, tel. (+7) 812 450 52 87,

Markets
Kuznechny market E-3, Kuznechny per. 3, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 41 61. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. N Sennoy market D-3, Moskovsky pr. 4a, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 310 12 09, www.sennoyrynok.piter-center. ru. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. N

Shopping centres
DLT Department store -2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Eliseevsky Store E-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 952 376 73 76, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Grand Palace Boutiques Gallery D-3, Nevsky pr. 44 / ul. Italyanskaya 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 44, www.grand-palace.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. ALK Passage D-2, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK Sennaya Shopping Centre D-3, Ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 740 46 38/(+7) 812 740 46 39, www.sennaya.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALK Vladimirsky Passage E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. ALKW

Nevsky Centre
Nevsky Centre D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl.
Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. This shopping centre in the historical heart of the city is brand-spanking new and looks it inside and out. Anchored by Stockmann, the Finnish department store, it is aimed at more upscale shoppers. You can find glamourous clothing outlets, cosmetics shops and those sophisticated bits and bobs for the house all under one roof. Theres also a spa, gym, roof top restaurant and a supermarket, located in the basement of the shopping centre. It has standard local foodstuffs and European products for both the budget cook and the serious gourmet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW

15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27 kilometers from the big city, it feels like a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is great place to get away from it all. Q Admission to park 50 - 100Rbl. Admission to palace 100 - 450Rbl. Palace open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri and the first Mon of the mounth. Park open daily. UK GETTING THERE: From Kupchino metro station marshrutka 286, 545; from Moskovskaya metro station take marshrutka 299; from Vitebsky station or metro station Kupchino (last stop of blue line) take a local train to Pavlovsk station (journey time 35minutes) which is just next to the entrance to the Pavlovsk park.

Pavlovsk Pavlovsk, Sadovaya ul. 20, tel. (+7) 812 452

Vintage and Second-hand


M Obnodny kanal, tel. (+7) 812 457 19 48, www. banyaconcept.com. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. ALKW Sweeter Shop D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 26, MNevsky pr., www.sweetershop.ru. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00.

Banya Concept Store Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 60,

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2013

52

expat and Lifestyle


In this section we seek to highlight various organisations one can join, fun activities for kids and the whole family, expat cultural institutions, religious services, and other items of interest to make your expat experience in St. Petersburg more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly well-developed and growing expat scene in the city and we recommend taking advantage of these connections. Also beginning with this issue we will highlight the experiences of one expat to offer a little advice about what to do and how to adjust to living in this great city.

expat and lifestyle


naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/ stpetersburg. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais D-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura C-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44/46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. The Netherlands Institute E-3, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www. nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. YESOD Jewish Community Home C-1, Ul. Bol. Raznochinnaya 25A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 58 85, esod.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat.

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Accountants and Lawyers


09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Acsour D-3, Nevsky pr. 10, business centre Geneum, 4th floor, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Baker & McKenzie C-2, Bolloev Business Center, per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 303 90 00, www.bakermckenzie.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. EMG (Accountants & Consultants) 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants) D-3, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG E-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Institute for Enterprise Issues D-4, Ul. Marata 92, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 41, www.ipp. spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Goethe Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSen-

Avenir Group E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7)812718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. QOpen

John Tschohl Seminar


10.04 Wednesday

Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library

The Expat Experience


Tell us something about yourself? My name is Agnieszka Nowak and I come from Lodz, Poland where I was Marketing Director for Manufaktura, a successful shopping centre in Europe. Now, I am Marketing Director of Galeria shopping centre. I arrived in April 2012 and in July my family joined me: daughter Julia, 14, son Jan, 10, and my husband. Our kids attend a regular Russian school and after a few months they became fluent in Russian language. Where do you like to spend your free time in spring? We try to go to the best theatres, such as the Mariinsky or Mikhailovsky. Due to language, opera and ballet seems to be the best option and my kids enjoy it a lot. When we have a bit more time we visit landmarks near the city: Peterhof, Tsarskoye Selo, etc. During summer New Holland is a great option to relax in the city centre with grass under your feet. It is also nice to go to the park on Krestovsky Island and rent a rowboat. What are your favourite restaurants, bars, clubs, and why? I really recommend Lapsha on Kadetskaya (Vasilevksy Island) with great Thai cuisine and the tiny restaurant Abazhur (Lampshade) on the 9th line on V.O. For a big dinner out, try Terrasa. For a cozy atmosphere it is worth to go to Teplo or Piervoye. Tandoor has a great Indian spicy food. If you could give an award to something or someplace or someone in the city what or who would it be? Thats a difficult question. On one hand plenty there are really great places and initiatives, while on the other hand so many things should be improved. I like New Holland for the European atmosphere they have created and the Mariinsky as it shows all the splendor of the old Tsarist Empire. Do you have any recommendations for places outside of St. Petersburg? I would recommend going to the Finnish Gulf. Komarovo, for example, is a great place and there is a very nice restaurant, Russkaya Rybalka, next to the beach.

International Schools/Pre-schools
German School B-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infant School (British International School) F-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya 22, M Chernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business associations
pr. 21, off. 506, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Association for North-Western Russia D-3, Nevsky

Relocation and Supplies


09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 48 60, www. okg-ser vice.timepad. ru/event/55810/. The United Consulting Group and Taleon Imperial Hotel are holding a seminar featuring John Tschohl, the global leader in customer service training and development, who will speak on Achieving Excellence Through Customer Service. John Tschohl is an internationally recognized service strategist, president of Service Quality Institute (SQI), a bestselling author, a motivational speaker and successful businessman. Topics addressed in the seminar with include building a companys brand around service, increasing market share and acquiring market dominance by improving service. The seminar, which will use a number of case studies, is aimed at customer-focused business owners, top managers, customer care and HR managers in banking, retail, and communications. It will show how to develop a customer-focused corporate culture, become a true service leader in the industry, build a customer-driven workforce that retains customers, and change the attitudes and performance of staff. Q 09:00 - 18:00. Registration by phone or online. Participation 18,000Rbl, VIP 39,900Rbl.

A Seminar of John Tschohl, Guru of Customer Service

AAA-Logistics Ul. Sofiskaya 6, MVolkovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 412 02 51, www.aaa-russia.com. Q Open

Entertainment Centres
Bowling Park D-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www.bowlingpark.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. PTAKW Happylon E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www. happylon.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAKW

Russian for Expats


Chainik
As we all know a Chainik is a teapot. It is a word so vital to our lives that it also has a figurative meaning. A chainik can also mean an inexperienced person, a beginner in any field (especially a driver or PC user). The figurative meaning dates back to the 1960s, during the boom in tourism and mountaineering in Russia. Those who took their tourism seriously packed only the bare necessities, just a kettle would suffice, but first-time backpackers would even pack the teapot (chainik). Since then all newcomers to a subject have been called chainiki.

Expat Contacts
62, spb@russia-consulting.eu. Dutch Club St. Petersburg, www.nlvpetersburg.com. English Communication Club, tel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, encc.ru@gmail.com, www.encc.ru. International Womens Club (IWC), iwcstpete@ gmail.com, www.iwcstpete.com.

Deutsche Runde/Stammtisch, tel. (+7) 921 879 99

Family Friendly Dining Clinics and Dentists


Below are 78, a few places that either have playrooms reky Moiky M Sadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 for 90/ kids, a nanny and/or special childrens events during the (+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Q Open 24hrs. weekends. Check their reviews inside this issue and their PTAU websites for more info. Euromed Medical Center F-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, Djigiteria C-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, SportM Chernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03M 01, www. ivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 36 99, www.gigiteria.ru. euromed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Q Open 12:00 24:00. . PTASW See p. 30. Medi International Clinic E-3, Nevsky pr. 82, MMayaLegran D-2, ul. 4/1, Admiralteiskaya, kovskaya, tel.Millionnaya (+7) 812 777 00M 00, www.emedi.ru. tel. (+7) 812-643 04 44, www.legran-rest.ru. QOpen Q Open 08:00 21:30. PTAU 12:00 - 24:00. PTASW See p. 34.E-3, Liteiny pr. Russian - Finnish clinic Scandinavia Marcellis D-3, Nevsky 43, M Mayakovskaya, tel. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Q avaclinic.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - Open 18:00. 08:00 - 06:00. . PTASW See p. 36. PTAU Stroganoff Steakhouse C-3, Konnogvardeisky MEDEM International Clinic & Hospital (Dentistbul. 4, Ul. MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 tel. 314(+7) 55 14, ry) E-3, Marata 6, MMayakovskaya, 812 www.stroganoffsteakhouse.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. 336 33 33, www.medem.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU . PTAULESW See p. 37. William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass.ru. QOpen 24hrs. PATESW See p. 40.

American Medical Clinic and Hospital -3, Nab.

Cultural Centres and Libraries


M Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www. amcorners.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. British Book Centre Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britania-spb.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, off. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki. spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik C-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, M Sennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Q Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Finnish Institute D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www. instfin.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

American Corners E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46,

Liden & Denz E-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz is one of St.Petersburg oldest language schools, having opened in 1992. Russian is taught mostly in groups, though individual tuition is also available. Situated in the historical city centre not far from Gostiny Dvor, the school features spacious and bright classrooms, all equipped with modern facilities. There is workstation with iPads for student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A April - May 2013

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expat and lifestyle


Religious Services
naya 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/Embassies/SaintPetersburg/. Usual Sunday services at 12:30 (2 times a month in Swedish, other 2 times in English). Sunday school for young children.

Getting Around
Leaving St. Petersburg
By Plane St. Petersburgs two airports are south of the city. Most international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34 44, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including those to most former Soviet Republics) leave from Pulkovo-1. Dont forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long. Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask anything from 2,000Rbl, US$70 or 50 to take you to the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is no more than 800Rbl, US$30 or 20. If you phone a taxi company and order transport to the airport in advance you can get a better deal. For taxi companies see page 9. Getting to the airport by Public Transport Buses N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (19-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go from Moskovskaya and also the more central Sennaya Pl. There is also a 24hour bus route linking both the international and domestic terminals with the city centre. Bus K800 runs from Pulkovo-1 (domestic) and K900 leaves from Pulkovo-2. The route passes metro stations Moskovskaya, Tekhnologichesky Institut and ends at Vladimirskaya.

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Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Katarina (Swedish church) D-2, Ul. Malaya Konyushen-

Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. QOpen Lutheran church of Peter and Paul D-3, Nevsky Roman Catholic Parish, Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria D-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky
pr. 22-24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Q Open Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00. 10:00 - 18:00.

Public transport and Taxis


Most Petersburg residents get around the city by public transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board from the conductor or the driver. Bus/Trolleybus/Tram Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. Tickets cost 25Rbl. Metro Petersburg has five colour-coded, numbered metro lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. One metro ride costs 28Rbl. Marshrutka The marshrutka is a mini bus taxi which follows a set route, hailing it down like a taxi. When you want to get off, yell out, astanavites pazhalusta. The price of the ride will usually be displayed in the front of the mini-bus. Pass your change down the front of the bus towards the driver to pay. Taxis Although there are official taxis, most St. Petersburgers hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance (Skolko?); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using large denominations and asking for change. Taxi 068 tel. (+7) 812 068, (+7) 812 324 77 77, www.taxi068.ru Taxi 7000000 tel (+7) 812 7000000, www.taxi7000000.ru New Yellow Taxi tel. (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg.nyt.ru

services in Russian Mon 19:00; Tue - Fri 08:30, 19:00, Sat 08:30, 19:00, Sun 10:30, 12:00, 19:00. Service in Polish every Sun 09:00. St. Michaels Lutheran Church C-2, VO, Sredny pr.18 B, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 33 17, www.stmihail.ru. Services Thu 19:00, Sun 11:00. After the Sunday service the Bible hour is held. Sunday school (except for the summer months). Concerts on Saturday and Sunday (for more precise information check the web-site).

Romanian Catholic Church of Lord Mother of God E-2, Kovensky per. 7, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 272 04 42, www.kovensky.ru. Q Daily

pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb. ru. Daily services in Russian 08:30, 19:00; Sat 12:00 (Russian), 20:00 (Spanish); Sun 09:30 (English), 12:00 (Russian), 13:30 (Polish), 17:00 (French). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Train Stations
iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Gatchina, Luga, Krasnoe Selo. Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, Vyborg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, Karelia. Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha. Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow and anywhere south of Moscow. Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, Praga, Warsaw, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, Budapest, Vilnius.

Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBalti-

Mademoiselle Cake
Mademoiselle Cake is Leonie, a creative mother originally from the Netherlands who loves to bake and decorate cakes. Speaking Russian, English, and Dutch she bakes cupcakes and cakes to order, and organises cupcakedecorating courses. All cakes are hand-made using only the finest and freshest ingredients filled with vanilla butter cream and jam and covered with fondant icing. Her cupcakes are elegant and sweet homemade treats and are a festive addition to any party, special occasion or ordinary afternoon. Just check with Leonie as to what you have in mind and she will do the rest for you. Mademoiselle Cake will teach you how to color, roll and shape the icing in her cupcake-decorating courses (990Rbl per person, minimum of 3 people) and holds cupcake parties for from 4-8 children (6+years), so treat your little one to one of the sweetest parties around (550Rbl per child). Everything is provided, including four cupcakes for each child to decorate. Treats and cakes from 750Rbl. Orders can be picked up in the Elizarovskaya district or delivered for a fee of 600Rbl.

Buying Tickets
If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are not due to take a break in the next hour or two and dont be surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. You can also buy online (although the booking pages are in Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. Dont forget to bring your passport with you as they need it to print you passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation.

Internations
InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at www.internations.org.

Getting around
Where is the? Is it far? Right/left Straight ahead Ticket office Open/closed Entrance/exit Push/pull Ticket Return (ticket) Entrance forbidden No smoking Gde? Eta daleko? Napravo/nalevo Pryamo Kassa Otkryto/zakryto ? ? / / Vkhod/Vykhod / Ot sebya/k sebe / Bilet Tuda i obratno Vkhod zapreshchyon Ne kurit

Mademoiselle Cake tel. (+7) 905 219 76 01,


www.mademoiselle-cake.jimdo.com

Buses
go kanal, tel. (+7) 812 766 57 77, www.avokzal.ru Tickets for domestic and international buses.QOpen 06:30 - 23:30. Eurolines Russia Mitrofanyevskoe shosse 2-1, MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily buses to Tallinn and Riga.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

City Bus Station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 36, MObvodno-

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GETTING AROUND
Street Register
1-28-ya liniya B-2/B-3/C-2/C-3 Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Angliskaya nab. C-3 Anichkov most E-3 Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Bakunina pr. F-3 Baskov per. E-2 Belinskogo ul. E-2 Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Blokhina ul. C-2 Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1/C-2 Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Dumskaya ul. D-3 Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Efimova ul. D-3 Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Galernaya ul. C-3 Glinki ul. C-3 Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Grafsky per. E-3 Griboedova kan. nab. C-3/C-4/D-2/D-3 Grivtsova per. D-3 Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Iskusstv pl. D-3 Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Karavannaya ul. E-3 Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Kovensky per. E-2 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. F-2 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Kronversky pr. D-1 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Letny sad D-2 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Liteiny most E-2 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Makarova nab. C-2 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Manezhnaya pl. E-3 Marata ul. E-3 Marsovo pole D-2

GETTING AROUND
Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2/D-3 Muchnoy per. D-3 Mytninskaya nab. -2/D-2 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. C-3/C-4/D-3 Robespyera nab. E-2 Rubinshteina ul. E-3 Ryleeva ul. E-2 Sadovaya ul. E-2/E-3 Sampsonievsky most D-1 Sapyorny per. E-2 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 Shvedsky per. D-2 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 Smolnaya nab. F-2 Solyanoy per. E-2 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3 Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. E-3/F-2/F-3 Spassky per. D-3 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2/B-3/C-2 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 Stolyarny per. D-3 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2/F-3 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1/F-2 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Troitsky most D-2 Tuchkov most C-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 Universitetskaya nab. C-2/C-3 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 Vosstaniya ul. E-2/E-3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 Zagorodny pr. D-3/D-4/E-3 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3

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Abbreviations Ul. Ulitsa Pr. Prospekt Pl. Ploshchad Bul. Bulvar Per. Pereulok Kan. Kanal Nab. Naberezhnaya Bol. Bolshaya Mal. Malaya

Advertise on this map! Call: (+7) 812 448 88 65


St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

This map gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink. st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com April - May 2013

Mosque Northern-Europes biggest mosque, near the Peter and Paul Fortress, is a place of worship for up to 5,000 Muslims. Although officially 300,000 followers of the prophet Mohammed live in St. Petersburg, the mosque is almost never full. It was built in 1913 and is the northernmost mosque in the world. During Soviet times medicines were stored here.

Cruiser Avrora The battle ship, anchored off the


banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum.

Kolomna is one of the rare neighbourhoods of St.

Petersburg that has changed little since the beginning of the 19th century. It is the least gentrified of all sections of St. Petersburgs centre. This fact offers the visitor the chance to wander through centuries of Russian and St. Petersburgs history, architecture, and soul largely undisturbed (See pages 18-22).

Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter

the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russias greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsk y, Mussorgsk y, Glinka and Dostoevsky.

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Russia
History
9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 1796: German princess Catherine the Great marries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a program of legislative and educational reform. 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russias serfs. 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. 1917 1924: Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenins Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. 1934: The worst period of Stalins terror begins; it lasts until 1941. 1941 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. 1953: Stalin dies. Its estimated that 20 million people died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposition, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer Olympics. 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Communist Party and calls for reforms including perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). 1991 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatization shaking the country. 1999 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. 2008 present: Medevdev becomes the third President of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladimir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat.

moscow

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Introduction
Russia is undisputedly the worlds biggest country. Its sheer size guarantees that no other country even comes in at a close second. While most visitors primarily make visits to the two capitals Moscow and St. Petersburg the country has much more to offer. Bordering 16 countries, it is 17,075,400 square kilometres large with a population of 143 million and a territory that encompasses nine time zones and 83 regions, so one naturally can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the sheer choice of sites on offer in such an enormous country. But, it goes without saying that while many of the most exciting events in any given country occur in their capital cities, its soul often lies elsewhere. This is especially true in Russia. Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty forests, lakes, and mountains to satisfy anyone looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of city life. While much of the major investment and attention in the last decade has poured into Moscow and St. Petersburg, capital has trickled into the provinces as well at a considerable clip. Although the level of development in provincial towns is still not on pace with the largest cities, but that is also part of the adventure. It is here that one can experience how average Russians live and imagine the past, present, and future of their country. Spring is a wondrous time to make a visit as the snow packs melt, the sun comes out of its slumber, and the plethora of holidays guarantee that there will be plenty of special events and celebrations on offer. In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations within striking distance of the citys capitals that make excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while others are full weekend trips. We would argue that no trip to Russia is fully complete without a visit to a provincial city, whether it be one of the wonders of the Golden Ring cities, or one of the ancient Russian settlements, such as Pskov or Veliky Novgorod. It was in these towns that the idea of Russia was first enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider selection of cities can be found on our website. In this issue we have selected Moscow, plus two provincial cities. Moscow, of course, needs no introduction. The other two cities are: Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan, and the host of the sporting event, the Summer 2013 Universiade; and Veliky Novgorod, one of Russias early trading settlements and a quiet town filled with a Kremlin and ancient churches. In Moscow please look for our print guide in hotels or check us out online and download our free iPhone app. at: www.inyourpocket.com/russia/moscow.

Fast-paced Moskva is Russias political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a melting-pot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscows busy streets all bear witness to Russias turbulent history and dynamic future and while its not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.

The Kremlin
Within the world-famous red walls of Moscows mighty Kremlin nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Once inside the Kremlin you will be ushered towards Cathedral Square which is surrounded by four medieval churches dating back to the 15th Century as well as the grand Ivan the Greats Bell Tower. Those with extra money to burn might want to take a look at the imperial jewels in the Kremlin Armoury. Note that tickets for the armoury are pricey and can only be bought at the ticket desk outside the Kremlin walls.

Red Square
The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter the Greats day to the huge military parades started by Stalin, not to mention the looting of Napoleons troops, the protests of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney. Every stone of every building here has a story or two to tell. Standing proud at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basils Cathedral topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other end you will find the State History museum which details the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying the magnificent view.

The Kremlin C-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the Kremlin Cathedral Square (5 museums-cathedrals, the Patriarchs Palace) 100-350Rbl. Excursions 2,000-2,500Rbl + admission. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls.

Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl. State History Museum C-2, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 60-440Rbl.

GUM -2, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. St. Basils Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) C-2, Red

Russian Art
For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous Russian soul the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start as it is the worlds number one museum of Russian art. The Tretyakov Gallery is spread across two separate buildings about a kilometre apart from each other. The old Tretyakov covers Russian art from the 12th to 19th Centuries, beginning with exquisite and mysterious icons and ending with the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russias favourite realist master, Ilya Repin. The Tretyakov on Krymsky Val houses the museums enlightening 20th Century collection which reveals the Russian revolution and the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes, ideas and stages. kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 70-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val B-4, Krymsky Val 10, M Park Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, w w w.tretyakovgaller y.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU

Getting There
Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so theres little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscows three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

Tretyakov Gallery C-3, Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretya-

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moscow
Soviet sightseeing
As the former capital of the biggest communist nation in the world (the USSR), Moscow is chock full of Soviet history which manifests itself in distinctive monumental architecture such as the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers which are dotted around the city centre and the spectacular metro system. For a glimpse of Soviet megalomania, head out to the All Russian Exhibition Centre (more commonly known as VDNKh), where giant Lenin statues, space rockets and monuments to workers and peasants loom. Space fans should not miss out on a visit to the nearby Cosmonautics museum which boasts such historic memorabilia as the taxidermied bodies of the first dogs in space Belka and Strelka, along with the pods they flew to space in.

veliky novgorod

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84 spacious apartments in Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka with fully equipped kitchens and all amenities you may require for you comfortable stay. Take advantage of our special extended stay rates
Pokrovka st. 40, Building 2, Moscow, tel +7 495 229 57 57 reservations.pokrovka@mamaison.com www.mamaison.com

All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs) Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Pavilions 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -19:00. Entrance to pavilions from 0 - 500Rbl. Cosmonautics Museum C-1, Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 350Rbl.

Literature and Theatre


Many of Russias best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov have been preserved as museums. Moscow was also the home of one of the greatest theatre directors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the theatre which he led is one of Moscows best for ballet, dance and opera. Finally of course theres no bigger name in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been spectacularly renovated.

Veliky Novgorod
Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as the birthplace of Russia. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored.

Sightseeing
Veliky Novgorod Kremlin
The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name Detinets. The first records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. If you are not afraid of heights its also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.

Luxury Trains to Moscow


If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, its worth the money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www. megapolis-te.ru

Enjoy the great outdoors


Moscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park, for a historic view try the rink on Red Square and to enjoy Moscows most historic skating pond its many mulled wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic Patriarchs Ponds.

Getting There
Th ere are many trains a day travelling to Velik y Novgorod in around three hours. From St. Petersburgs Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 07:11 (Lastochka express), 08:12 and 17:15. Trains return to St. Petersburg at 07:15 and 17:10. In addition there are also numerous buses (journey time approx 3.5 hours) a day leaving from the bus station at Obvodnogo kan. 36.

Ilmen lake

Hotels
under arch to the left of the playground to find building entrance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com. Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya D-1, Ul. Kalanchevskaya 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. hhhhh Hotel Ermitage D-2, Durasovsky per.7, bldg. 1, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www. ermitagehotel.ru. hhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya B-1, Ul. 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriottmoscowtverskaya.com. hhhh Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 77, www.pokrovka-moscow.com. hhhhh Peking Hotel B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 09 00, www.hotelpeking. ru. hhhh

Comrade Hostel D-2, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor (go

It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the monastery is free.

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April - May 2013

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veliky novgorod
Greensleeves Irish Pub Ul. Velikaya 5/2, tel. (+7) 8162 775 557. This tiny little box of an Irish pub, the pride and joy of jolly owner Yuri is a breath of fresh air (metaphorically speaking of course - its still very smokey in there) in quiet Veliky Novgorod. A lively bunch of locals and tourists of all ages jostle together around a handful of tables to drink foreign lagers and posh whiskies, chow down on huge plates of pub grub and generally enjoy the mighty Irish craic. If you thought that Russians didnt understand the concept of a friendly small town pub experience, come here and prepare to be surprised. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. . PALES Khoroshye Lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once youve been to this place you wont want to eat anywhere else - its just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area with open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in and dont worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. . PAW
307, www.napoli-restaurant.ru. Ok so you probably didnt come to Veliky Novgorod to eat Italian food, but trust us this is one of the best dining options in town. The staff are polite and helpful, the food is fresh and the atmosphere is neither touristy nor provincial. As well as good pastas and wines, they also have a real stone oven in which they bake their excellent fresh bread and pizzas. Its a bit far out so you will probably need to go there by taxi or bus 4, 8, 8a or 20. Very convenient for those staying in the Park Inn hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTALEBSW 8162 946 066, www.tk-podvorie.ru. Seated inside what looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, youll be served excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma a little, but they do offer a lot of Novgorodian specialities such as local soup recipes and sbiten (a hot drink made of various herbs and spices) which are definitely worth making the effort for. A very good value place to eat before or after visiting the Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAULEGBSW

KAZAN

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Where to stay
Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 8162 940 910, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorods only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and its a definite step above the rest. The hotel celebrated 20 years in Novgorod in 2011 and welcomed in the jubilee with yet more improvements as the hotel is brought up to the bright and colourful Park Inn trademark look. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and theres also an art nightclub. Access to the large swimming pool and saunas are included in the price as well as to the childrens entertainment centre. To get there from the city centre take bus no. 4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (Room prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FL GKDCW hhhh Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162
225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short sightseeing trip or longer business trip as its one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared for than many other hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than youd expect in a small Russian town. Theres plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (Room prices start at 2,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. HALGKDCW hhh

Kazan
Popularly referred to as Russias third capital, Kazan is the city (as accords their official slogan) Where Europe meets Asia. As the capital of the Russian Republic of Tatarstan, Kazan mixes a rich Muslim Tatar culture - with its own language and government - with Western Slavic influences and is famous for being a particularly religiously tolerant and friendly city. The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts both a mosque and an Orthodox cathedral and in recent years the whole city has been beautified and restored in preparation for the 2013 Summer Universiade. For those looking to see where European and Asian Russia meet and enjoy a glimpse into one of the countrys most vibrant non-Slavic republics, theres probably no better starting point than Kazan. The undoubted must see place in Kazan is the UNESCO listed Kremlin and in particular its famous mosque and the Hermitage Kazan centre. After youve done the Kremlin make sure to take a walk down Ulitsa Kremlevskaya to admire the citys 19th Century mansions, pop into the stunning Peter and Paul Cathedral along the way and then enjoy a lazy stroll along the pedestrianised Ulitsa Baumana which is full of cafes, bars and restaurants to rest up in.

Kazan Kremlin
The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts both a beautiful new mosque and an Orthodox cathedral. The Kremlin is also the centre of the Tatar government and houses the official residence of the President of the Republic of Tatarstan. Other highlights of the Kremlin include the Hermitage Centre which has regular exhibitions from St. Petersburgs Hermitage Museum. You can also climb the Kremlin walls behind the mosque, where there are also many vendours selling local souvenirs.

Napoli Studencheskaya ul. 21/43, tel. (+7) 8162 636

Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7)

Eating and drinking


theatre), tel. (+7) 8162 987 000, www.casa-del-mar. ru. Getting out to this trendy boat caf/bar/restaurant/club concept is quite a mission and the view through the boats windows is nothing to get excited about. Better stick to the internal view of over-dressed rich locals sipping on cocktails and dining on the usual European/sushi menu favourites. The food is not the best youll eat in Novgorod but if youre searching for a safe Friday night experience with young upwardly mobile locals its probably a reliable place. Q Open Sun - Thur 12:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00. . PTALESW

Casa del Mar Ul. Velikaya 14a (on the river behind the

Getting There
By Train: From St. Petersburg there is only one direct train a day which leaves from Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya). The journey takes approximately 22 hours and leaves St. Petersburg at 16:13 arriving in Kazan the next day at 14:02. From Moscow there are six trains a day which travel to Kazan and beyond. The journey takes between 11 and 14 hours depending on which train you take and all trains leave Moscow in the evening and arrive in Kazan in the early morning. Trains leave from Kazansky station (metro Komsomolskaya). By Plane: Russian airlines Aeroflot, Transaero and S7 are the main (and safest) airlines offering international transfers to Kazan. Air France and Etihad Air also offer flights to Kazan via Moscow. Flights from Moscow take around 1 hour 20 minutes and the airport is a 30 minutes drive from the city centre. Taxis from/to the airport should cost around 800Rbl. There are no direct flights to Kazan from St. Petersburg although all of the above mentioned companies offer connecting flights via Moscow.

Annunciation Cathedral Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 73, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Erected between 1556 and 1562, this is Kazans most important cathedral and the home of the holiest copy of the Our Lady of Kazan icon, which was presented to the city by Pope John Paul II in 2005. The cathedral, which was built in a style similar to that of the Assumption cathedral in the Moscow Kremlin, was destroyed many times by fire over the centuries and following the Bolshevik revolution it suffered yet more damage as the Soviets destroyed the bell tower and other ecclesiastical buildings which surrounded it. In the 1990s concerted restoration work began and in summer 2005 the cathedral once again began to accept worshipers as it returned to its function as a working place of worship. The interior painting and iconostasis are mostly modern although many of the icons which were donated to the cathedral date back centuries. Be sure to pass behind the Cathedral to admire the spectacular view over the river.

Krasnaya Izba Tourist Information Office

The lovely girls at Krasnaya Izba can provide you with advice on just about everything to do in Novgorod. They have a 24hrs. hotline that you can call if you still find that you are constantly lost. Tel. (+7) 8162 998 686. Central office at Sennaya pl. 5. www.visitnovgorod.ru

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April - May 2013

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KAZAN
Exhibition Hall Manege Kremlin, MKremlevskaya,
tel. (+7) 843 567 80 67, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. This exhibition hall is located in the Kremlins former stables and regularly hosts photography and painting exhibitions from local artists. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon.

Hermitage Kazan Centre Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 32, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Opened with the help of the Hermitage museum, this cultural centre regularly plays host to historical and art exhibitions brought especially to Kazan from St. Petersburgs great Hermitage museum. Until 27 May 2012 the centre is showing a stunning exhibition of more than 200 paintings, drawings, sculptures and other artifacts from Spain dating from the 15th to the 20th centuries. Names such as Velazquez and Goya feature and alongside the stunning art, theres also a large dedication to traditional Spanish crafts such as lace-making, carved bone, bronze and silver artistry, weaponry, pottery and glasswork. QOpen 10:00 - 17:45, Fri 10:00 - 16:45. Closed Mon. Tickets 50-120Rbl. Qul Sharif Mosque Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel.
(+7) 843 567 80 01, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. In the 16th Century prior to the invasion of Kazan a mosque stood here which was named after its leading teacher Qol Sharif. Qol Sharif died alongside his students trying to save the mosque from the Tsars forces, but unfortunately it was destroyed in 1522 and for centuries the site remained empty. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, with the help of many other counties including Saudi Arabia and UAE, the mosque was rebuilt, albeit in a modern style. The impressive new mosque was finally inaugurated in 2005 when Kazan celebrated its millennium and now stands as a prominent symbol of the city, rightly recognised as one of Kazans most worthy sights as well as Europes largest mosque. The Qol Sharif largely functions as a museum although thousands of Muslims do gather here to pray on major religious holidays.

Photo by Pavel Hellsing

Eating and drinking


Beer Lozha Ul. Pushkina 5, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 24 36, www.ofsrussia.ru. A large Bavarian style beerhouse serving quality brews by the litre and German sausages and other meaty fare on huge wooden platters. It can get loud at the weekend, especially when the live bands kick in, but theres also often the chance to win free beers and other prizes. The heavy wooden dcor is complemented by quirky extra details such as light fittings made from beer kegs while the large windows ensure Beer Lozha maintains a light and modern edge. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PAEW Dom Tatarskoy Kulinary Ul. Baumana 31/12,
MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 35 20, domtk. ru. Traditional Tatar cuisine in plush surroundings resplendent with bold Tatar colours and patterns. Popular with Kazans business community and those in government. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAEW

Where to stay
Courtyard by Marriott Kazan Kremlin Ul. Karla
Marksa 6, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 40 00, www.kazancourtyard.ru. New 4 star international hotel sitting directly in the shadow of Kazans fabulous Kremlin. Dining facilities include the Mediterranean grill restaurant and a stunning roof top bar with a birds eye view over the Kremlin the river. Q150 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). PTHAUFGBKW hhhh

Sultan Kebab Ul. Baumana 74, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 26 75. Its certainly not the most exotic cuisine in Kazan and the quality is just above fast food, but you could also do far worse for these prices. Sultan Kebab is in fact a Turkish joint although local Tartar dishes also feature alongside the usual kebabs dripping in garlic sauce. Service is quick and you can watch everything being freshly grilled on the barbeque. Take note there is also a dining room upstairs which is much less drafty. PW

Nightlife
Coyote Ugly Ul. Baumana 13, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 45 08, coyoteugly.ru/kaz. The third bar in Russia from the American chain famous for its gorgeous girls who have fast and furious skills both behind the bar and on it when they get up to pour tequila shots. As the brand demands the buzz is very much roadhouse Americana, all loud rock music, bourbon and cowboy boots. Given the sorry state of the competition in Kazan, Coyote Ugly is generally a safe bet as the best place for a big night out. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAE Cuba Libre Ul. Baumana 58, MPloshchad Tukaya,
tel. (+7) 843 253 55 32, www.cubakazan.ru. A genuine Cuban bar hidden in an alley just off Kazans main street. Retro postcards from Havana and pictures of Fidel and co. plaster the walls and the waitresses follow the trend by wearing cute communist outfits. The menu is filled with a Cuban and Mexican mix of dishes and of course cocktails are a hit. At the weekends this is the hottest bar for dancing in (and by far the tiniest) and entrance is usually restricted due to the extremely small floor space, so get down early, or try flashing some Spanish at the door. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAE

43/1, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 58 00, www.ibishotel.com. Great budget destination in a very central location. Kazans main walking street filled with restaurants and bars (ulitsa Baumana) is just around the corner and the hotel itself looks out over one of the citys canals. The interior is the signature light and breezy Ibis with dining in the brands mainstay European restaurant Sud i Cie. Q155 rooms (Room prices start at 2,000Rbl). PHA6ULKW hhh

Ibis Kazan Centre Hotel Pravo-Bulachnaya ul.

Park Inn Kazan Ul. Lefgasta 9-11, MPloshchad Tukaya,

tel. (+7) 843 235 23 54, www.kazan.parkinn.ru. Large and colourful, this hotel wears its Park Inn standard primary colour scheme with pride. Dining is in the RBG Stone Grill restaurant while cocktails are also served in the lounge. The location is not entirely central although it is close to the widely expanding Vakhtikovsky area where much of Kazans older Islamic influenced architecture is located. Q151 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). PHA6UFL GKW hhhh

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