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WS16520
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WS16520
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#/8"-dia. dowel
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A few plywood scraps make a simple jig for drilling the dowel holes in the rail ends.
are the correct depth, measure from the bottom of the mortise, as shown above in detail a. The middle end rails are connected to the legs with dowels. So now would be a good time to locate and drill the holes in the legs for the dowels and connector bolts (lower margin drawing at left). And you can drill the holes for the adjustable shelf pins (upper margin drawing). Now after rounding over the edges, you can set the legs aside and get to work on the end rails. end rails. All of the end rails (and the two handles shown on the next page) are cut to the same length. The handles and the middle rails need dowel holes (detail c). I used the jig shown on the left to make drilling them easier. The top and bottom end rails need a hole for the barrel nut that will be used with the connector bolt.
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I also drilled a counterbored hole at each end of the top rails. These holes will be used to attach the top (detail b, previous page). After chamfering the edges of the rails, you can assemble the end frames. Then you can turn your attention to the top and bottom side rails. These will tie the end assemblies together to create the base. Stretchers. As you can see in detail c above, the ends of the bottom side stretchers are notched. The notched section fits into the legs bottom mortise. The top stretchers
extend past the legs to hold the handles. You can use the drawing below to cut them to shape and drill the dowel holes that hold the handles in place. Like the bottom stretchers, the notch sits in the mortise at the top of the legs (drawing above). Next, you can rout a chamfer on the edges of all four stretchers. base assembly. Now, you can complete the base. You might need some help clamping everything in place. Then you can drill through the legs and stretchers for the
connector bolts, as shown in detail a. The Shop Tip below will help with drilling these holes.
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c. a.
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TOP VIEW
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SIDE VIEW
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With the base complete, you can start to work on the top. In the drawings above and on the next page, youll see that the top is made up of three main assemblies. First, theres an open-top frame thats fastened to the base. Below it sits a recessed storage tray. This frame also provides a convenient home for the cutting board and serving tray shown on page 9. Attached to each end of this top frame is a hinged leaf. When the leaves are closed, they form a solid top for the patio cart. When open,
This shop-made > jig (page 11) will help you assemble the shelves and top. It maintains an even spacing between the slat during glueup.
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they expose the recessed tray below. The top frame and leaves have grooved rails to hold the slats. Youll start by making these rails. FRAMEPIECES. The rails for the leaves and top frame assembly are the same width. But when you cut them to length, its best to cut the rails a little long (12" or so). Its easier to trim them to the right length after the leaves and top frame are assembled. Now youll need to cut a groove centered in one edge of each rail to hold the slats. Before you make the slats, rout a chamfer on the inside edges of the rails. MAKINGTHESLATS. If you take the time to count them, youll find out that there are 46 slats used for the patio cart. But the nice thing is, theyre all the same size. So it makes sense to cut them all to size at this point and use them as needed. Youll start by ripping the stock for the slats to width. Since each slat will have a 12"-long tenon on each end, you need to take that into account before cutting them to length. Next, you can make the 14"-thick stub tenon centered on each end (detail a above). These tenons should fit snugly in the grooves of the rails for the top frame assembly and leaves, as you can see in detail a. With a V-groove bit and fence mounted on your router table, rout a chamfer on all of the edges, including the ends, as shown in details a and c above. Now, you can start to work on the assembly jig to help with spacing the slats during glueup. ASSEMBLY JIG. With all these slats to glue in place, I knew it was going to be tricky to get everything positioned just right. The goal is to get a
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WS16520
b.
consistent, 14" spacing between the slats. So I made a simple assembly jig to help out (photo, page 5). top frame &LEAVES. The top frame is made up of four slats(two on each end) and the two rails. You can use the assembly jig to space and position the slats. A filler strip is glued into the rail grooves after assembly (detail c, previous page). After removing the clamps, you can trim the ends of the rails flush with the slats and add the hand recesses on the two rails (detail b, page 5). Then round the corners and chamfer the outside edges. The leaves are assembled just like the top, except that youll use six slats. Here again, trim the rails, round off the corners, and add the chamfer before you move on to attaching the hinges.
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HINGES . Theres a simple trick to installing the hinges on the leaves and top frame. The box below shows you what you need to know. recessed STORAGE . Below the top frame sits the recessed storage tray. It has vertical ends, narrow side rails, and eight slats, as shown in the main drawing above. When you make the ends, cut a rabbet on the inside bottom edge. This rabbet will fit over the end slat.
Next, you can make the groove that will hold the table top fasteners, as shown in detail b. To assemble the tray, I glued the slats into the side rails first (detail a). After that, you can glue each end rail to the end slat. Now you need to fasten the recessed tray to the bottom side of the top frame. Then you can use screws through the top rails to mount the whole assembly to the base.
Marking the Mortise. Use the hinge as a template to mark the mortise. Center the hinge knuckle on the gap between the leaf and top.
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Drilling the Mortise. Use a 11/4"-dia. Forstner bit to drill out the hinge mortise. Check the depth on a scrap piece first.
WS16520
Pare Away the Waste. Lastly, carefully remove the waste with a sharp chisel. Aim for a flush fit.
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{ Notches cut in
the bottom of the middle shelf fit over these shelf supports to keep it from slipping off.
Now, you can drill the screw holes that are used to mount the shelf to the bottom of the base. Then its just a matter of drilling pilot holes and fastening the shelf in place, as shown in detail c above. Next, you can move on to making the middle shelf. MIDDLESHELF. Youll make the middle shelf the same way as the bottom shelf. But here, youre only using 10 slats. And once the shelf is glued-up, I trimmed the ends to fit the inside of the cart frame (detail a). After that, I rounded the corners and routed a chamfer on all the outside edges. SHELFCLIPMORTISES. To keep the middle shelf from sliding off the shelf supports, there are mortises for the shelf supports. These mortises are shown in detail d above. To locate
the mortises, I installed the shelf clips in the legs, placed the shelf on them, then traced around the shelf clips with a pencil. The dimensions shown in detail d will give you some guidelines. To create the mortises, I used the drill press and a Forstner bit to drill a 18"-deep recess. Then clean up the mortises with a chisel like you did with the hinge mortises on the two leaves and top frame. Once the shelves are complete, you can move on to adding the casters and applying the finish.
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finish thats made for outdoor use. Turn to page 12 for some ideas. To keep your patio cart looking new, its best to wipe it down with a mild cleaning solution and a damp rag occasionally. And I try to wipe
up any spills right away. After all, youll be using it for food preparation and serving, so its important to keep it clean. With a little care, your patio cart will be around for a long time.
" x 5" - 96" White Oak (Five boards @ 3.7 Bd. Ft. each)
(8) !/4"-20 x 3!/2" Connector Bolts (8) 10mm-dia. x 16mm Barrel Nuts (2 pr.) Single-Pin Hinges & Screws (4) 5"-dia. Locking Swivel Casters (4) Tabletop Fasteners & Screws (20) #8 x 1!/4" Rh Woodscrews (16) %/16" x #/4" Lag Screws (16) %/16" Washers (24) #/8"-dia. x 1 Dowels (4) Shelf Supports
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Weekend Projects
Accessories
outdoor grilling
This serving tray and cutting board are easy to build and can be used alone or with the patio cart.
I enjoy cooking out, so anything that makes it easier is always welcome. And thats why I like this serving tray and cutting board. Besides being easy to build, theyre designed to fit into the recessed storage area on the top of the patio cart as shown above. The serving tray uses simple joinery. The bottom is made from 14"-thick slats with a tongue on each end. These slats fit into grooves cut into the sides of the tray. The end pieces form the tray handles and are fastened with the same knock-down connectors as the patio cart.
For the cutting board, I edge-glued some maple boards using waterproof glue. The juice groove in the top is easy to make using a core box bit and a template. The handy thing about these projects is that they make the patio cart a complete grilling station. But they also look and work great all by themselves.
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WS16520
Serving Tray
To make the tray, youll start with the ends. The pattern thats at the bottom of the previous page will help you lay out the shape. After the end pieces are cut to shape, sand the edges smooth. I wanted to soften the look of the serving tray, so I created a bullnose on the top edge and on the ends. To do this, I used a 38"-radius roundover bit on the router table, as you can see in detail a at right. You can use the same setup to form a bullnose on the inside of the handles. Now you can move on to the sides. First, an 18" groove on the inside bottom edge houses the tongue on the ends of the slats (detail b). And, like the end pieces, I routed a bullnose on the top of the side rails. Next, you can make the eight 14"thick slats. They get a 1 8"-thick tongue on each end, as shown in detail b at right. Youre aiming for a snug fit in the grooves. The assembly jig (page 11) comes in handy for aligning and spacing the slats. You need to trim the width of the two outside slats to fit the side rails. After you glue the slats in place, you can attach the ends with glue and connector bolts.
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Cutting Board
The cutting board is made by edgegluing stock to form a wide panel. Youll want to make the panel oversize and trim it later. I cut and arranged the boards for the best appearance and used waterproof glue for assembly. After the glue is dry, you can trim the cutting board to size and sand both faces smooth. To form the handles, first drill a 1"-dia. hole at each end (detail a). Then you can use your jig saw to cut out the waste between the holes. Next, cut a 12" radius on the four corners. After sanding the edges smooth, I routed a bullnose profile on the edges and inside the handles (detail b at right). The last thing to do is create the juice groove on top. Shop Notebook (page 11) shows you how.
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for the next cut. Youll need to make at least 12 grooves. The spacers create a 1 4 " gap between the slats during assembly. I planed them for a tight fit in the slots, so you dont need glue.
MAKINGTHETEMPLATE . The template is a rectangular piece of hardboard with a 1/2" radius on the corners. I mounted the template to the cutting board using carpet tape. Youll want to make sure the template is centered on the cutting board. ROUTINGTHEGROOVE . To rout the groove, install the bushing and core box bit in your router. I set the depth of the bit to cut a groove thats 3 / 16" deep. Then its just a matter of routing in a counterclockwise direction
around the template. If youre not using a plunge router, youll need to tip the router to start the cut.
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finishing room
easy-to-apply
Outdoor Finish
It never fails. Every time I build an outdoor project, one of the first questions friends ask is What finish did youuse? The truth is, theres no perfect outdoor finish. All of them will break down over time and need to be renewed. But there are several good options to choose from. Paint. The first is to use paint. Paint protects wood with a thick barrier that blocks out light and water. Its just that after going through a lot of work to build a project with nice wood, its a shame to cover it up. Varnish . Another option is to use spar varnish. This finish forms a tough film over the wood. The downside is that the varnish flakes and peels as it ages. And refinishing it can be a long, tedious job. Oil. Theres one choice that I turn to when I want protection from sun and rain without a lot of fuss. And thats a penetrating oil finish. This finish was made to protect decks and wood siding. It works by penetrating into the wood, without leaving a film. This makes it easy to apply multiple coats. The end result is a water-repellent, fade-proof finish. To handle extreme weather, the finish is made up of a combination of ingredients. It all starts with a light oil base. The thin consistency allows it to penetrate deeply. And its what stops rain and snow from
Keep your outdoor projects looking great year after year with an all-in-one, water-repellent finish.
soaking in and leading to rot. The main photo on the previous page shows how this works. The most common oil used for the base is tung oil. But some brands use other oils. Penofin, for one, uses Brazilian rosewood oil as the base. Another finish, Cabots Australian Timber Oil contains a combination of tung oil, linseed oil, and longoil alkyds meant for projects made from tropical hardwoods. The Sources list on page 14 can show you where to find these. Mildew. Drenching rains arent the only problems outdoor projects face. Damp conditions can breed mildew which can spoil a project quickly. So, semi-transparent stains include a mildew inhibitor to keep it from getting a foothold. UV Blockers. To stand up to the sun, the stains contains an ultraviolet light (UV) blocker. This light is what breaks down and bleaches the wood fibers to a silvery gray. Its a Stain, Too . Theres one final ingredient. These finishes often include stain pigments. These colors even out variations in materials and tint sun-bleached wood without concealing the grain. (Some examples of these are show in the photo at right.) Because of this feature, they are sometimes called semitransparent stains.
Unfinished Cedar
filling the sprayer and applying it. Youll notice that the sprayer will lay down a pretty heavy coat, as shown in the photo at right. But that will guarantee that you get good penetration of the stain before wiping off the excess. When youre done, pour leftover stain back in the can. Then clean out the sprayer with paint thinner. This way, you wont gum up the nozzle. I label my sprayer so it wont get used in the garden.
WS16520 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
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Project Sources
To get the cart ready for barbecue season, youll need some hardware. I ordered the 5"-dia. total-lock casters (37138), table top fasteners (34215), and 1 " shelf supports (33894), from Rock4 ler. They also carry 312" connector bolts (31864), 118" connector bolts (31831), barrel nuts (31823), and hinges (29157). And if you walk into just about any home center or hardware store, youll probably find a full line of outdoor finishes. But the finishes that I discussed on pages 12-13 were Penofin and Cabot. You can check both of their websites to find a local dealer.
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