Effects of warp-weft density variation & porosity of cotton fabrics on their shades in reactive dyeing Page: 1

Compiled by: M. Rezaul Karim Tutul

Effects of warp-weft density & porosity variation of cotton fabrics on
their shades in reactive dyeing

One of main problems in dye-houses is caused by differences between structural parameters of
reference fabric of which dyeing recipe is known & fabric to be dyed. In such a case, knowledge
of effects of parameters such as warp & weft density & fabric porosity on colour efficiency is of
great importance for right-first-time dyeing. Cotton fabrics with different warp & weft
densities & porosities were dyed with reactive dyes & colour measurements were carried out
with a spectral photometer. Warp & weft densities & porosity do not have any evident effect on
colour shade, although a considerable change in colour yield was determined.

Introduction
Recently, ecological, economical & punctual delivery criteria have acquired great importance in
dyeing process, in parallel with both quality concepts & consumer expectations. Shade
reproducibility & level dyeing are major obstacles in right-first-time production, which has
become a basic aim of textile dyers in order to increase their success on textile market. One-
third of dyes used for cellulose fibres today are reactive dyes, due to better features such as
higher fastness properties, brighter colour effects, & a wider colour palette. Range of available
reactive dyes is wide, & enables a large number of dyeing techniques to be used, & over 60% of
reactive dyes are applied by exhaust dyeing method.

In practice, dyeing conditions are rarely constant, & this leads to 5-10% of total production
being dyed inaccurately. These faults generally occur due to variations in fabric construction,
quality & mass; deviations in liquor ratio, temperature & dyeing pH. When dyeing performance
of a company which uses exhaust dyeing method & acceptable limit value of E is 1.2 is
investigated, it can be found that 0.3 of E comes from dyestuff, but more importantly 0.9 of
E is based on differences in material to be dyed & dyeing conditions.

Main problem in dye-houses is caused by differences between structural parameters of reference
fabric of which dyeing recipe is known & fabric to be dyed. Fabric structure differences would
lead to different liquor flow interactions through fabrics. In such a case, if dyeing recipe of a
loose fabric applied to a dense fabric, final colour obtained would be different. It is important
to recognise effects of fabric structure on colour effects. Accordingly, dyeing recipe corrections
on basis of experience & colour measurement results would increase RFT dyeing efficiency.

Fluid flow through textiles is a complex physical phenomenon, because of fibrous & highly
non-uniform organisation of structure & deformation. Nevertheless, fluid flow through a fabric
is important in order to understand many of its physical & mechanical properties. Since textiles
are discontinuous materials, which are produced from macroscopic sub-elements such as fibres
& filaments, they have void spaces or pores, & therefore finite porosities. Critical fabric
functionalities, such as performance of parachute & sailcloth, efficiency of filtration,
transportation of moisture from body to environment, apparel comfort, thermal insulation
properties, rate of liquid penetration during wet processing & liquid removal during drying of
fabrics, etc. depend on porosity of fabrics. In several study it is concluded that knowledge of
porosity makes it possible to determine both air & water flow through fabrics. In a fabric, pores
are situated in fibres, between fibres in yarns, & between yarns in fabric. When considering
fluid flow through textiles, shape arrangement & size distribution of voids through which fluid
flows are of great importance. It is obvious that the smaller is the pore dimensions, the greater
is the resis
passing th
per unit a
when fabr
natural fib
ratio of pr


Where
weft threa
geometric
defined as


Where a
by dividin
porosity a
woven fab
mostly, kn

Experim
Plain weav
purpose o
densities
represents
Mean de
geometric
Three diff
Tab-2 rep
concentrat
for each o
Reactive d
liquor rati
started wi
raised to
Dyeing re
60C with
for 2% dy
of sample
observer &
stance to dy
hrough fabri
area are ma
rics are proc
bres). It is o
rojected geo

denotes fab
ads, d1 is d
al expressio
s fraction of

a is fabric d
ng fabric we
as well as in
brics, & con
nown practi
ment
ved bleache
of investiga
of warp &
s characteris
nsity of c
ally, consid
fferent reacti
presents pro
tions (0.5%
one & a tota
dyeing was
io of 1:15
th liquor co
60C with
ecipe is pres
h 0.5g/l ace
yeings), 80
es were me
& norm ligh
ye liquor flo
ic. Yarn dia
ain factors a
cessed in a w
obvious that
ometrical are
=
opcn poc
totuI u
bric porosity
diameter of
on of poros
f void space
= 1-
pu
pb
----
density (g/c
eight per un
nter-yarn po
nsequently
ically, althou
d cotton fa
ating effects
& weft yarn
stics of fab
otton fibre
ering plain
ive dyes, Ye
operties of d
% & 2%). Fu
al of 1.5%)
carried ou
according t
ontaining alk
a 1C/min
sented in Ta
etic acid), &
C for 10m
easured with
ht D65.
ow & so, de
ameter, surfa
affecting po
wet medium
t porosity is
ea of openin
c ucu
cu
=
(P1
y, P1 is dist
f warp yarn
sity, but giv
e in a porous
--------------
cm
3
) & b i
nit area, by
rosity of fa
fabric poro
ugh no expe
brics produ
s of fabric
ns were 12
rics used. P
es is 1.52g
weave struc
ellow 173, R
dyestuffs. Dy
urthermore,
were also pr
t with a la
to 30C6
kaline, salt &
n temperatu
ab-3. After
& then rinse
mins, & 5min
h a Minolt
Table-1
ecreased por
face formatio
orosity of t
m due to swe
a function
ng across m
P1P2
1+d1)(P2+d2
tance betwe
n, & d2 dia
ves only in
s medium:
--------------
is fibre dens
fabric thic
abric. It is as
osity, on sh
erimental stu
uced in diffe
structure &
2tex (Ne50
Porosity of
g/cm
3
. Por
cture with ai
Red 239 &
yeing proce
, combinatio
rocessed.
boratory-sc
60C temp
& dyestuff a
ure rise ratio
dyeing, sam
d at 80C f
ns in cold w
ta 3600d s
: Fabric prop
rosity leads
on techniqu
extiles. Dim
elling of fib
of fabric ge
material to to
2)
--------- (
een warp th
ameter of w
nter-yarn po

----------- (2
sity (g/cm
3
kness. This
ssumed effe
ade & yield
udy on this
erent warp &
& porosity
) & 15tex
fabrics was
re area of
id of yarn d
& Blue 222,
esses were ca
on dyeings o
cale HT the
erature rise
at 30C, &
o; samples w
mples are rin
for 10mins,
water. Refle
spectral pho
erties
to a decrea
ues, & numb
mensions of
bres (especia
eometry. Po
otal area of m
1)
hreads, P2 is
weft yarn. T
orosity of f
2)
3
). Fabric de
s equation i
ects of warp
d in reactiv
subject has
& weft dens
on colour
(Ne40) re
s calculated
each fabr
diameters.
were used f
arried out in
of these thr
ermal dyein
method. D
after 10min
were then tr
nsed & neut
, 95C for 1
ection (%R)
otometer w
ase in fluid
ber of yarn
f pores are
ally for hydr
rosity is def
material:
s distance b
This calcula
fabrics. Por
ensity is cal
includes int
p & weft den
e dyeing, w
s yet been fo
sities were u
yield. Line
espectively.
d by Equati
ric was cal
for reactive
n two differ
ee dyestuffs
ng machine
Dyeing proc
ns temperatu
reated for 6
tralised (10
15mins (tw
) & CIELab
with a 10
volume
threads
smaller
rophilic
fined as
between
ation is
osity is
lculated
er-fibre
nsity of
which is
ound.
used for
ar yarn
Tab-1
on (2).
lculated
dyeing.
rent dye
s (0.5%
with a
ess was
ure was
60mins.
0min. at
wo times
b values
normal

01 Dyes
02 Struc
03 Reac
04 Reac
05 Subs
Colour yie


Where, R
S scatterin
Colour di

Where,
hence E
100) & d
difference

Results
Effects o
Tab-4, 5
reference
weft densi

Table-4: E
concentratio

a* & b
that increa
fabrics bo
effect on
makes pen
weft dens
Table-2: D
stuffs
cture M
ctive group
ctivity
stantivity
Any single
0.5
Red 239
Yellow173
Blue 222
Glaubers salt
Soda ash
elds of dyed

R is reflectan
ng coefficien
fferences ar
E* is CIEL
*, are in co
darkness (w
e between ye
& discus
of fabric de
& 6 repre
to sample w
ity variation
Effects of we
on (warp den
Dyestuffs
Yellow 17
Red 239
Blue 222
b* values cal
ase in weft
oth for 0.5%
L* values o
netration of
ity show hi
Dyestuff prop
Yellow 173
Mono-functio
Vinyl sulfon
Medium
High
Tabl
dye shade%
5%

0.5%
35g/l
7.5g/l
d samples w
K/S= (1-R
nce at maxim
nt.
re expressed
E* = l(L
LAB colour
mmensurate
where L*=0
ellow (+b*)
ssion
ensity vari
esent L*, a*
with weft d
n.
eft density v
nsity is 60thre

73
lculated wit
density doe
% & 2% dy
of samples.
f dyestuffs i
igher L* val
perties; (VS: V
3
onal
ne Mono-c
le-3: Dyeing r
Any Single
2.0
%
Red 239
Yellow173
Blue 222
l Glaubers
l Soda ash
were calculat
R)
2
/2R-----
mum absorp
as E, wh
L*)
2
= (a*
difference
e units. L
0), a* dif
) & blue (-b*
iation
*, b* values
density of 2
variation on
ads/cm)
th reference
es not have
ye concentr
Due to incr
into fabric
lues, i.e. low
Vinyl Sulphon
Red 23
Bi-functi
chloro-tryazin
Mediu
High

recipes for rea
dye shade%
0%


2%
50g/l
13.0g/l

ted by the K
--------------
ption wavele
hich is calcul
*)
2
= (b*)
between ba
L* denotes d
fference bet
*).
s & L*,
20threads/c
CIELab valu
to sample w
a significan
rations. How
rease of we
more diffic
wer colour y
ne, MCT: Mo
39
onal
ne/Vinyl sulf
m
h
active dyestuf
Three dyes
Red 239
Yellow 173
Blue 222
Glaubers salt
Soda ash
Kubelka-Mu
--------------
ength (nm),
lated by foll
)
2
l
1/2
--------
atch & stan
difference be
tween green
a*, b* &
cm) of reac
ues of reacti
with weft d
nt effect on
wever, incre
ft density, f
cult. On this
yields. One
ono-chloro-tr
B
fone Vinyl sul
ffs
combination
1.5%

unk equation
-- (3)

, K is absorp
lowing equa
- (4)
ndard. Here
etween ligh
n (-a*) & r
& E value
ctive dyed f
ive dyed fab
density of 20
colour shad
ease of weft
fabrics beco
s account, f
e thing is es
riazine).
Blue 222
Bi-functional
lfone/Vinyl s
Medium
Medium
n shade%
0.5%
0.5%
0.5%
45g/l
11.5g/l
n :

ption coeffi
ation:
L*, a*,
htness (wher
red (+a*),
es (calculate
fabrics cons
brics with 0.

0threads/cm
de of reactiv
ft density ha
ome denser,
fabrics with
specially imp
sulfone
icient &
b* &
re L* =
& b*
ed with
sidering
5% dye
m show
ve dyed
as main
, & this
h higher
portant
for combi
variation o

Table-5: Ef
(warp densi

Table-6: Ef
concentratio
Colour yi
samples d
analysis w
density va
density va
samples d
lightest &
yellow col
yield chan
dye liquor
fabrics cou
more dyes

It was ob
shade for
difference
densities o
respectivel
compared
& 100%
significant
properties

Effects o
As shown
is more si
loose fabr

Pore area
fabrics wi
fabrics wi
ination dye
on uptake p
ffects of weft
ity is 60thread
Dyestuffs
Yellow 17
Red 239
Blue 222
ffects of weft
on (warp den
ields of sam
decrease. Rel
with signific
ariation is s
ariation is
dyed with Y
& the brighte
lour when
nge is more
r contains a
uld take up
stuffs comp
served that
r both 0.5%
e between fa
of samples
ly 11.11%
d to weft den
denser resp
t variation
s of fabrics,
of porosity
in Fig-2, th
ignificant in
rics, & thus
can also b
ith same po
ith same po
ing, namely
properties of
density variat
ds/cm)

73
t density varia
nsity is 60thre
mples dyed c
lation betwe
cance value
statistically
statistically
ellow 173.
est), & incre
compared t
significant
a lower amo
. On other
ared to den
warp yarn
% & 2% d
fabrics, whic
used in this
& 22.22%
nsity variati
pectively tha
in warp d
which leads
y & pore d
he higher th
n dark shad
liquor pene
be taken as
orosity can
orosity fabr
y possibility
f dyestuffs u
tion on CIEL
ation on CIEL
ads/cm)
considering
een fabric d
() of 0.05
significant
y insignifica
This is beca
eased dyestu
to red or bl
in dyed sam
ount of dyes
hand, by in
se fabrics.
density var
dye concen
ch is probab
s study (fab
% denser th
ion (fabrics
an sample w
ensity woul
s to a signif
dimensions
he porosity
des. For den
etration into
a factor th
have differe
ics produce
y of colour
used in trich
Lab values of r
Lab values of
weft densi
density & co
5. Results s
for all shad
ant. The lo
ause L* valu
uff concentr
lue colours.
mples with
stuffs, thus
creasing dye
riation does
ntration. Als
bly because
brics with w
han sample
with a weft
with a weft
ld cause a
ficant colour
s on colour
of fabrics, t
nse fabrics,
o fabric is m
hat affects c
ent pore di
ed with fine
shade chan
hromy are d
reactive dyed
f combination
ity variation
olour yield w
showed that
des. On oth
owest colou
ue of yellow
ration leads
Another im
2% dye co
there are no
e concentrat
s not have
so, there is
e of lower d
warp density
with a war
t density of
t density of
much grea
r difference
r yield
the higher th
resistance
more difficul
colour yield
imensions. F
e yarns have
nges if effec
different.
fabrics with 2
n dyed fabrics
n are density
was investiga
t colour yie
her hand, ef
ur yield ch
w colour is t
s to an insig
mportant p
oncentration
o excess dye
tion, loose f
a significan
s no signif
difference b
y of 60 & 6
rp density
30 & 40thr
f 20threads
ater differen
.
he colour yi
to liquor fl
lt.
d, as well as
For instance
e larger pore
cts of weft
2% dye conce

s with 1.5% t

y, colour yi
ated by corr
eld change b
ffect of war
hange occur
the highest (
gnificant ch
oint is that
n. In 0.5%
estuffs whic
fabrics can
nt effect on
ficant colou
between war
66 threads/
of 54thread
reads/cm ar
/cm). How
nce in dye
ields. This i
flow is high
s porosity, b
e, consideri
es when com
density
entration
total dye
ields of
relation
by weft
rp yarn
rred in
(i.e. the
hange in
t colour
dyeing,
ch loose
take up
colour
ur yield
rp yarn
/cm are
ds/cm)
re 50%
wever, a
uptake
increase
her than
because
ing two
mpared
to fabrics
yields of
above. In
is no diffe
dimension
A correlat
pore dime
pore dime













Conclus
One of im
no certain
pending o
a problem
account, e
effects sho

In this res
Warp &
concentrat
When wa
with L*, c
dark shad
penetratio
In view of
yield, & sh
Fig-1: E
variation
(K/S);
Yellow
Red
Blue
Yello
Red
Blue
produced
dyed fabric
this study,
ference betw
ns of sample
tion analysi
ensions on
ension variat
sion
mportant po
n value for a
on agreemen
m for mills,
effects of p
ould be esta
search, we h
weft yarn
tion. Howe
arp & weft
colour yield
e dyeing. Fu
on is difficu
f these obse
hould be tak
Effects of wef
n on colour yi
w : 0.5,
: 0.5,
: ----
ow : 2%
: 2%
: 2%
with coarse
cs. This inc
effects of p
ween yarn li
es on L* va
is was carri
colour yield
tion is statis
oints in dyei
a colour dif
nts between
where colou
physical para
ablished.
have focused
n density v
ever, L* valu
densities ar
d (K/S) of
urthermore,
ult which me
rvations, it
ken into acc
ft density
ield
,
,
-,
%,
%,
%,
e yarns. Fig
crease is mo
orosity & p
inear densit
lues of dyed
ed out (=
d. It was ob
stically sign
ing is that o
fference (E
consumer &
ur matching
ameters of
d on effects
variation do
ues of samp
e increased,
f fabrics dec
, tight fabric
eans that po
is obvious t
count when
Fig-2: Effe
colour yield
Yellow
Red
Blue
Yellow
Red
Blue
Combinat
g-3 represen
ore significa
pore area on
ies. It was o
d fabrics are
=0.05) in o
bserved tha
nificant.
of acceptable
E) acceptan
& manufact
g is done on
fabrics such
s of fabric s
o not affe
ples increase
, colours of
creases by i
cs have lowe
orosity can
that fabric t
considering
ects of poros
(K/S);
: 0.5,
: 0.5,
: ----,
: 2%,
: 2%,
: 2%,
tion : 1.5
nts effects o
ant in dark
n colour yiel
observed th
e stronger t
rder to inv
at colour yie
e colour dif
nce limit. Pr
urer. Fabric
n basis of c
h as weave
tructure on
ect colour
e by increasi
f dyed fabri
increasing f
er porosity
be taken as
tightness &
g problems
sity on Fig
on
Y
R
B

R
B
C
of pore dim
shade dyei
ld are analo
hat effects o
than effects
estigate effe
eld change
fference lim
ractically, th
c structure d
colouristic e
sett, poros
problem o
shades ind
ing warp &
ics become
fabric tightn
where resist
a factor fo
porosity dir
of colour re
g-3: Effects o
colour yield
Yellow
Red
Blue
Yellow
Red
Blue
Combination
mensions on
ings, as men
gous becaus
of porosity
on a* & b*
fects of poro
due to por
its. In fact,
his value is
difference is
experience. O
ity, etc. on
f colour ma
dependent
weft yarn d
lighter. In
ness, especia
tance to dye
r colour ma
rectly affect
eproducibili
of pore dimen
(K/S);
: 0.5,
: 0.5,
:----,
: 2%,
: 2%,
: 2%,
: 1.5
colour
ntioned
se there
& pore
* values.
osity &
osity &

there is
1-2 de-
s always
On this
colour
atching.
of dye
density.
parallel
ally for
e liquor
atching.
t colour
ity.
nsions