The Shetland Sheepdog Puppy A Guide to Sheltie Pups By Becky Turner Discuss This Article at our Sheltie Forums

All puppies are adorable - that's a fact! But the Shetland Sheepdog puppy knows how to be deliberatelycute on demand. A most dangerous creature indeed! Sheltie pups can appear innocent after even the most foul puppy crimes - from pooping on the carpet, to destroying your new TV remote, to whining and whimpering for attention at 3.30am. Yep, Sheltie puppies know exactly how to manipulate their humans. In this section you'll learn about the different types of Shetland Sheepdog puppies; how you can acquire one of these adorable little mites yourself; and how to care for your furry new friend.

Howard, our Shetland Sheepdog puppy Types of Shetland Sheepdog Puppies There is only one official Sheltie dog defined by the American Kennel Club standard. It stands between 13 and 16 inches tall and weigh 15 to 23 pounds.Miniature Shelties are not an official dog breed (and unfortunately due to poor breeding practices, many come with many more health complications). If you're going to a breeder to buy a Shetland Sheepdog puppy, you're most likely to come across sable Sheltie puppies. This is a beautiful tan and white coat color,

ranging from golden to mahogany, and is probably the most common coat color of Shetland Sheepdogs. Both our boys are sable Sheltie puppies. Sable Sheltie puppies usually have lighter fur when they're young, which darkens as they age. In fact, it can take up to two years for the adult coat to grow, which is what gives this breed their distinctive look. Other Sheltie colors include: bi black, tri color, blue merle, bi blue, sable merle, and color headed white (CHW).

One of our sable Sheltie puppies

Buying a Shetland Sheepdog Puppy Like all dog breeds, Sheltie puppies shouldn't be separated from their mom until they're at least 7-8 weeks old. Any earlier and the puppy may be very nervous and have problems settling into its new home. Having said that, puppies should be with their new owners by 12 weeks, when they start forming strong attachments. Shelties are very popular dogs in the US (ranked 18 out of 154 AKC registered breeds) and there are many Sheltie breeders who sell puppies as pets. Still, Shelties have litters of 4 to 6 puppies so if you have your heart set on one, put your name down with your local breeder in advance. I also recommend checking out local rescue shelters for Shetland Sheepdogs. They often have slightly older puppies and adult dogs that need re-homing. Dogs end up at rescue shelters for all kinds of reasons - they may have been abandoned, lost and even unwanted Christmas presents (yes, it still happens. In fact, the New Year is often when animal rescue shelters are most overwhelmed). You will save money at a shelter and more importantly give a dog a second chance at life.

Please, whatever you do, DON'T buy a Sheltie from a pet store. Not only is the pet store environment a terrible place for young and scared puppies (who are nearly always taken from their mothers too soon). But people who supply pet stores are often backyard breeders or owners of illegal puppy mills. These are horrific places that keeps dogs in cramped conditions as "breeding machines" before they are killed. Expert breeders never sell their litters to pet stores, so don't support this trade.

Puppies form strong attachments from 12 weeks Caring for New Sheltie Pups The day you bring a new puppy home, your life will change. You will spend hours bonding with your new friend and at times the constant supervision may feel overwhelming. So get the whole family involved and take turns to look after him. Everything is new to your Sheltie puppy and it will inevitably try to chew on electric cables, choke on tiny objects (puppies try to eat everything), get trapped in small spaces, make a mess on the carpet, and cause plenty more untold havoc. Those first few weeks and months of your puppy's life will be the most demanding on you. If this is your first dog, you'll need to go to the pet store and buy some supplies in advance. It may sound obvious but I didn't realize how much stuff a new puppy needs - and once you've brought your new Sheltie home, you won't want to go out and leave them alone, so stock up beforehand. New Shetland Sheepdog puppies will need: Newspaper (for toilet training) Paper towels (for inevitable accidents)

Carpet stain remover (enough said) A dog bed and blanket Food and water bowls A wire crate (for a safe den and for crate training) Puppy toys and chews Puppy food (your breeder may supply this)

Over the next few days or weeks, you'll need to buy grooming products and other necessaries, like: A grooming brush A flea comb Dog shampoo Nail clippers A small collar A short leash A long leash (for training) De-worming tablets An ID tag (with your name and number)

Check out my article on Grooming Shelties for step-by-step instructions on grooming your new puppy's fur. This becomes more important from around six months when their adult coat begins to develop and thicken.

Puppy Maintenance Register your new Shetland Sheepdog puppy with your vet and they will schedule you in for their remaining vaccinations. You can also discuss whether to neuter / spayyour Sheltie pup - although don't worry about this until at least six months of age. There is evidence to show that fixing Shelties at less than five months can seriously affect their growth. We got our boys neutered at one year old. Finally, make a habit of washing your Sheltie puppy in a warm shower once a month or so. If they have very dry skin you may want to put it off to every six weeks. The coarse hair of Shetland Sheepdogs repels mud and dirt - so they should consider themselves lucky; some breeds require weekly washing! Most Shelties hate water to begin with so the first few bath times can be a little scary. This is one such event...

Washing your Sheltie puppy is fun for no-one! Don't worry, Howard soon dried off and got lots of treats for putting up with it! Over time, Shelties can become very well accustomed to water especially if you keep bath times calm affairs and take them swimming regularly. Dog Rescue Stories Roscoe

submitted by Janet Dieter The story of how we found the most amazing dog, Roscoe My husband and I decided we were going to get another dog because I wanted to start running again. We have an 11 year old Golden (too old for that much running) and a 9 year old Cairn (legs too short to run that far!). We headed out to the shelter near my hometown. Its a small shelter that doesnt get much traffic. More than half of the dogs were black. In my mind I wanted a medium to smaller female both our other dogs are males. We started the process of taking the dogs out to the yard one at a time, eliminating each of them for various reasons. We got down

to just 2 dogs, and one of them seemed to have a dog aggression, so we decided to take the hyper/crazy one. He (yes, a male) would jump straight up in the air and look us in the eyes. He was between 1 and 2 years old and solid black. He was abandoned on the country road near the shelter. We brought him home and within half an hour of giving him a bath he was sleeping on the floor with our other two dogs!! It was like he had been a member of our family forever! This hyper, crazy dog at the shelter turned out to be an amazingly well behaved dog in the house!! Ive taken him through basic obedience and we are now training to compete in Rally. Weve also done some Dock Diving. Hes incredibly smart, and is excelling at anything I ask him to do. We had him DNA tested, and it seems that hes a full blooded Lab. He has goofy ears, but otherwise fits the breed description. I do home daycare and he is so gentle with the little ones. I couldnt have found a better dog if I had made him myself!! Who would have thought that the crazy, jumping, wiggling, insane dog at the shelter would actually be a gentle, loving and intelligent dog in a home!! I cant wait to see how far we can go with him! Dog Rescue Stories Spooky Dude

submitted by Chris Wright Hes still there. No one even looks at him. These were the words I heard almost daily from my wife, a volunteer at AuSable Valley Animal Shelter in Grayling, Michigan. A passionate animal lover, she exercises dogs, trains them, and does whatever it takes to help them get adopted into a forever home. For nearly a year, a black Labrador-mix breed

had been waiting in the shelter . . . but no one looked at him. My wife said he was a good dog, very smart, and would make a great companion. She was frustrated to see him looked over by every shelter visitor considering pet adoption. He really is a great dog, my wife said. All he needs is a chance. On July 19, 2008, I relented. Bring him home, I said. Well add him to the pack. Now named Spooky Dude (in keeping name consistency with our other two shelter labs, Lily Munster and Scooby-Boo), our new pal was a challenge. He had a tendency to bolt and needed to be under constant supervision, even in our fenced-in yard. Spooky Dude was very independent: he distrusted humans and didnt want affection in any way, except from my wife. When I touched his belly or ribs, he would flinch and growl. Even my wife experienced a coldness from him that she hadnt seen in him at the shelter. Its as if hes saying thanks for adopting me, but Ill take it from here, my wife said one day. Indeed, Spooky Dude was unique. Our oldest Labrador, Lily Munster, put him in his place quickly, and he began to learn his boundaries. Still, he had other issues. Spooky Dude had no idea what a dog toy was, and didnt know how to play. Scooby-Boo, a social butterfly, repeatedly try to get him to play with her. He looked at her the way a human might look at a space alien. At the lake, Spooky Dude was terrified of the water (a Labrador?). While our other two dogs love dock-jumping and swimming, our newest family member was frightened by the waves that crashed the shore. Just being on the dock caused him to tense and stiffen up. We were determined, however, to make it work. In only a matter of days, Spooky Dude was not only swimming, but leaping from the dock (on an extended leash) like a champ to retrieve a water toy. Its as if he truly wants to be part of the pack, even though he seems so independent, my wife

commented. This encouragement early on was one of many little victories. Our short training sessions began with a daily walk, where I taught him several commands: heel, sit, leave it, and here. Over time, we saw that he was making an important connection with us: Spooky Dude became anxious to please and, as a result, became more focused. After we taught him watch me, he really began to come into his own. The scornful, cynical look in his eyes has replaced with hope, expectation, and a healthy curiosity. He became familiar with his position in our home, and what was expected of him. Last month, he earned the privilege of being off-leash at the lake to experience the freedom of swimming and playing with our other two labs. Although he is no champion dock leaper like ScoobyBoo (a 20-foot jumper!) he loves paddling in the water to retrieve his toy. His delight is evident by his wagging tail as he emerges from the water, drops his toy, and prances merrily down the dock, anxious for another go around. The dock is no longer a threat to him, but a part of the great water ride. Our time and efforts with Spooky Dude have also shown emotional benefits: One year after we adopted him, he now craves attention. Instead of drawing away from physical touch, he will often approach one of us and nudge our hands in a bid for a scratch behind his ears, or simply roll over for an impromptu belly rub. The familiar growls of warning are gone. There is a new light in his dark eyes that is both eager and inquisitive. To this day he is a willing student, a loyal companion, and a good friend who has found a forever home. We have no idea what Spooky Dudes background is, or where he came from. The vet has estimated that he is probably around six years old. When he was picked up as a stray by animal control in the summer of 2007, he was very thin and scraggly. His coat was dirty, matted, and brittle. We think that Spooky Dude was probably a stray most of his life, foraging for food and shelter, on his own. We also wonder why he languished for so long in a shelter. Why did so many people pass by this intelligent and beautiful black dog? It is the policy of AuSable Valley Animal Shelter not to euthanize any adoptable animal, and there is a good possibility that, had we not brought him home, he might still be at the shelter. It seems like such waste and shame that a dog of his caliber was overlooked for so long, regardless of the reasons. Spooky Dude is living proof that with proper guidance and care, dogs can change. He will always be a work in progress, but the time we spend with him continues to have its rewards. Its a joy to see him wag his tail, obey commands, and simply be what he should be: a happy, content, well-balanced dog. All he needed was a chance.

Some of our Akitas currently looking for new homes.

Akita Behaviour & Temperament Page 1 of 32

While everyone who breeds or buys dogs probably agrees they want dogs with "good" temperaments, exactly what that means is left to the imagination more often than not. Read this great Article by Sherry E Wallis for some interesting opinions. While everyone who breeds or buys dogs probably agrees they want dogs with "good" temperaments, exactly what that means is left to the imagination more often than not. Each party assumes that he is talking about the same thing. Unfortunately, huge discrepancies may lie between their concepts of what constitutes good temperament.

For instance, many years ago, a group of us attended a party given by the owner of a champion male. He was outside when we arrived and remained there despite inquiries about him. Finally, a few of the guests prevailed on our host and were taken out to see the dog. Several told me that later that they wished they hadn't been so insistent, Initially, the dog growled and snarled at them, quieting down after a few minutes, but remaining very alert and wary. One visitor said, "One wrong move, and you'd have been fair game!" The owners later told me that they felt the dog's temperament was very correct for the breed and were quite proud of what they considered a properly protective nature. If he growled at a few judges in the ring and couldn't be petted by spectators, that was okay with them. They hadn't bought a poodle. Is this good temperament? I don't think so, but it is certainly an "eye-of-the-beholder" question. This disussion of temperament was originally published in Akita Dog, the newsletter of the Akita Club of America, and later in Akita World magazine. It contains what I consider essential components of good temperament for an Akita, why I think they are important, how to tell if you have problems and how to strengthen weaknesses. This material is garnered from my own experience, education, and opinion, and I welcome input from you. Your suggestions, comments, or (perish the thought!) criticisms should be directed to me by e-mail. The priority of this list is rather loose. Some components are equally important; others depend on an individual's preferences. For instance, many people would rank protectiveness much higher than I have, but almost everyone would agree on the first few. However, I know from experiences like the one I just related that even they are open to challenge.

Some of our Akitas currently looking for new homes.

Akita Behaviour & Temperament - Page 2 Page 2 of 32 RECIPE FOR GOOD TEMPERAMENT

First and foremost, every dog, not just an Akita, should be bite inhibited. He should be so reluctant to bite, that he does so only under the direst of circumstances. Even then, he should bite only once, and damage from the bite should be very minimal. Second, an Akita should be accepting of authority, that is he should be submissive. Between and within breeds, the degree of submissiveness varies. The Akita's independent nature may well modify its willingness to cooperate. Third, an Akita should like children. Just as retrievers like sticks and balls, this breed should have an affinity for children. Fourth, an Akita should be accepting of non-threatening strangers, regardless of whether the stranger is friendly or neutral. Fifth, an Akita should have enough confidence to be at ease an unfamiliar setting. Sixth, an Akita should be trainable. He should be willing and able to learn behaviors that he repeats reliably. Seventh, an Akita should stable around strange noises. Eighth, to some degree, an Akita should have an independent nature. Ninth, an Akita should have an inhibited nature. He should not respond to stressful situations by becoming increasingly excited or agitated. Tenth, faced with a threat, an Akita should be protective of their family. Eleventh, an Akita should be accepting of other dogs.

Some of our Akitas currently looking for new homes.

Akita Behaviour & Temperament - Page 3

Page 3 of 32 BITE INHIBITION Bite inhibition is a concept that, as a dog owner, you know about, but you probably pay it little attention unless and until your dog bites. Most dogs are inhibited from biting. That's what makes them desireable companions. A few people seem not to mind living with an animal that might inflict serious injury on them. They buy lions, tigers, wolves, and dogs that are likely to bite, often and hard, They probably also like bungee jumping and parachuting. While these all have a large element of risk to the individual who likes living on the edge, only the first presents a hazard to others. Inherited Component Bite inhibition begins before birth, since it is partly inherited. Unless you are a telepath, you have really no way of knowing how quickly a dog might reach its flash point. It may have a good reason for biting, but, again, unless you're telepathic, youll also never know. When a dog bites, the family's first impulse is to find a good reason for their dog's behavior. Most people love their dogs deeply and feel hurt, guilty, defensive, and protective when it transgresses. "He was protecting his owner, was abused by the former owner, was startled" The list of reasons is only limited by the owners'imaginations. You will seldom be in a position to judge the accuracy of their reasoning, and if you like the dog, your regard may shade your opinion, too. Because the willingness of the dog to bite a person has a genetic component, the safest option in breeding is to select dogs that have never done so. Simply stated: Don't use any dog for breeding if it has bitten a human. Training Not to Bite While the height of the threshold at which a dog will bite may be initially determined by inheritance, it can certainly be raised or lowered by training. Puppies begin learning it from each other and from their mother. Learning the Limits When puppies play with each other, they engage in biting behavior. The strength with which they bite is tempered by the response of their playmates. The hurt puppy protests with a loud, high-pitched scream, and the offending puppy lets go. Likewise, nursing puppies can bite their mother once their teeth come in. Moms react by moving away from the puppy, pushing it away, or, in extreme cases, by growling at the biter. She may also intervene in the puppies' play should one puppy prove too aggressive to his siblings. In these ways, puppies learn to set limits on the force they exert when biting.

Time To Grow Up Social interactions are very important for the developing puppy not just for bite inhibition but for learning proper doggy manners. The lessons they learn here will remain with them all their lives which is why leaving the litter together past the traditional six weeks is vital. At six weeks, puppies are just beginning to play with each other, with toys, and with their mother and other dogs. Taking them away too early can deprive them of valuable lessons in life. What Does This Mean To You As the Breeder? You and the rest of your household should jump right in with the rest of the puppies, teaching them that humans are very delicate beings. You will be bitten because that's how puppies test their world. As soon as a puppy mouths you, even if he does not bite hard, you should mimic his littermates and give a high-pitched yell. The puppy should immediately let go and will probably lick a couple of times. Give him a warm "thank you," and wait for the next time. Very young puppies will continue to bite but the bites should get progressively softer until they disappear altogether. Extend your indications of discomfort to bites on your clothing as well. If you walk among the puppies in a long night-gown, scream when they bite the edges. This technique is highly effective and will work with young dogs even more quickly than it does with puppies. All children should be taught to deal with nipping puppies and young dogs this way since they rarely have the social standing to correct the dog by indicating their disapproval.

Some of our Akitas currently looking for new homes.

Akita Behaviour & Temperament - Page 4 Page 4 of 32 SOFT MOUTHS

Many Akitas have soft mouths, probably from crosses to native dogs that were retrievers. Their bites may be more like nuzzles and may never cause you pain. As adults, soft-mouthed dogs may have the same toys for years. They may never cause problems to your furniture or shoes. Don't be fooled, though. They can still inflict serious damage on people or other dogs, because when they want to bite hard, they can.

Hard-mouthed dogs have a slightly different jaw structure, so few Akitas have the same bite strength as a German Shepherd or Rottweiler. If your face is being bitten, however, this distinction will be of little concern to you. All bites hurt. Strengthening Bite Inhibition You can strengthen bite inhibition throughout the dog's life. Not letting him bite you or your clothing is the first and most important step in doing this. If you currently roughhouse by offering your arm as a target, switch to a lambswool or rawhide toy, a towel, or a ball. Throw it or drag it for him and then let him play with it. You can pick it up (few Akitas will actually bring it back, so don't be disappointed when your dog proves to be a "getter" but not a "returner") and throw or drag it along the ground. Any time the dog tries to play-bite at you, switch him over immediately to one of these toys. If your dog has a firmly entrenched habit, yelping may not work. As an alternative, you may firmly take your dog's muzzle off your arm or clothes if he puts his mouth on you. Hold his mouth shut, but don't try to hurt him, and with a very low, growly voice, firmly tell him, "No." Don't strike the dog or shake him. You may also be battling a dominance problem, which is covered in another section of this discussion. Trading aggression for aggression may get you into an escalating spiral that can cause the very problem you're trying to avoid! Insist that your children and any visitors not play chase allowing the dog to pursue them. If dogs could talk, they'd probably call this game "Chase the Prey." Given the right set of stimuli--the right movements, the right sounds, the right smells--this can become pursuit in deadly earnest. When you send your charges on to new home, you don't need to scare your buyers to death, but you should make them aware of appropriate behaviors. Give them a book like Terry Ryan's Alphabetizing Your Dog or Carol Benjamin's Mother Knows Best and ask that they read it before they pick up their puppy. The expense is negligible when you consider the tragedies it can prevent.

Some of our Akitas currently looking for new homes.

Akita Behaviour & Temperament - Page 5 Page 5 of 32 ACCEPTANCE OF AUTHORITY

Any dog in its relationship with other dogs and with people fits onto a scale of what is most often called "dominance behavior." At the upper end is the dog that does what he wants when he wants and enforces his will if he is thwarted--the alpha, the most dominant dog. At the lower end is the dog that seems to have no ego strength at all-the omega or most submissive one. Perhaps this component of behavior is better viewed as acceptance of authority. Many people want strong, brave Akitas and are afraid that a submissive dog will be everyone's doormat. In fact, the relationships formed between dogs themselves and between dogs and humans are very complex and very fluid, subject to change depending on circumstances. Also important to understanding the significance of such measures is the character of the breed itself. A dominant Rottweiler is a very different dog from a dominant Papillon. A submissive Akita is not the same thing as a submissive Chihuahua. The Pack Incorporated The roots of dominance behavior are found in the dynamics of the pack, the social unit into which canines organize themselves. Observations of naturalists have given us great insight into how the pack functions. These have been done in the wild on wolves and coyotes and in academic settings, on dogs. They show us an organization that in many ways is analogous to one of our corporations. At the top is the pack leader, the CEO. He is responsible for the welfare of the group and charged with its protection. His perks are commensurate with his responsibility. He gets first pick of the food and gets as much as he wants. Everyone looks up to him and curries his favor. Unless a corporate takeover is in the works, no one challenges his authority in the slightest way. At the bottom of the corporate ladder is the fellow who has virtually no status, either personally or as a result of his position He's the step-n-fetchit for anyone who gives him an order. While the CEO may have a genuine liking for this guy and may even share the table with him once in a while, you can bet the rest of the group will have very little social interaction with such a low- status individual. In fact, among the lower-status members is an element of contentment. They know their place and keep it. Friction occurs most frequently in the middle and upper management individuals. Always trying to move up the ladder means exchanging places with someone else, so they may well scrap and squabble. Too serious a fight might draw the attention of the CEO, however, so fights are more to intimidate than to damage. If the head honcho does intervene, his discipline is quick, sure, and accepted by the offending parties.