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THE Green
Winegrowing
HANDBOOK
Created by
Parducci Wine Cellars and Paul Dolan Vineyards
2nd Edition
Table of Contents
Glossary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
We dedicate this handbook to the family farmers A rapidly growing number of ecologically aware
whose stewardship of the land and protection of the consumers who value taste and quality are
environment inspire our respect and trust. enthusiastically purchasing wines from vineyards
and wineries that are certified Biodynamic®, certified
With increased awareness of the world around us,
organic and utilize certified sustainable farming and
today’s consumers are redefining their notions of
business practices.
quality and value.
This handbook will provide an in-depth overview
QUALITY is classically expressed in terms of taste
of green practices in the wine industry and a better
and style. However, with a greater understanding
understanding of how and why these practices
of how the health of the planet is directly related to
contribute not only to the quality of wine but the
one’s own health, an increasing number of consumers
health of our environment. As you read it, you will
are considering how their purchases reflect their
learn about the eco-conscious mind set that guides
quality of life, not just now, but in the future.
Mendocino Wine Company to craft the award-
And while VALUE has typically been understood winning Paul Dolan Vineyards and Parducci Wine
as a number on a price tag; an increasing number Cellars wines.
of consumers are asking important questions about
the hidden costs of conventional farming—how soil
depletion and pollution in their air and water can cost
them their future.
As we realize the health of the earth determines our Paul Dolan, Partner
own health, buying habits are changing. This fact Paul Dolan Vineyards & Parducci Wine Cellars
is supported by substantive research showing that
80% of all consumers are some shade of green1. In
addition, 77% of respondents to a national survey2 Tim Thornhill, Partner
believed it important to buy environmentally friendly Paul Dolan Vineyards & Parducci Wine Cellars
products.
2 FOREWORD 3
Introduction
Humanity’s actions are altering the balance of nature; quality of their wines, but also the environment and
and we are watching the world transform before our their communities.
very eyes. Fish populations are in serious decline;
And yet, old habits die hard. Too few winemakers
our rainforests are disappearing and the planet’s
have undergone the transformative shift from the
topsoil is being eroded and lost. The impact of global
standard reductive approach, where man dominates,
warming and its effects on our climate are being felt
to a natural-systems view where man partners with
worldwide, from the hottest summers on record to
nature.
melting polar ice caps.
Here at Mendocino Wine Company, where we craft
All agriculture depends on the health of the land,
the Paul Dolan Vineyards and Parducci Wine Cellars
and as a winemaker I know how even the most subtle
wines, we stay true to these beliefs. In setting some
environmental changes in the vineyard can leave an
of the highest environmental goals in the industry
imprint on the style, structure and composition of
we have achieved much in five short years. We
today’s wines. Thirty years ago I can remember my
understand sustainability is not a temporary trend,
grapes struggling to reach maturity of 23.5º to 24º
but a continuous journey and constant process. There
Brix. Now, with the changing climate, I have a similar
is always more we can contribute.
challenge to keep the sugars below 28º-29º Brix each
year while waiting for the tannins to ripen. As a fourth-generation winemaker, farmer and father,
I seek to leave the world in better condition for my
Because it is directly tied to the earth, the wine
children. They inspire my commitment to healthy
business is uniquely positioned to respond to these
farming practices that will create wines of impressive
challenges. Try to find an agricultural product that
depth, balance, and expressiveness for a very long
is more closely scrutinized, savored, or judged than
time—practices designed to sustain our environment
wine; so those grape growing, winemaking, and
and the people who live here.
business practices that improve the quality of the
land will noticeably improve the quality of their wine. Five hundred years ago Copernicus questioned
It’s a simple concept whose time has come, and one whether it was the sun that revolved around the earth
greater numbers of people are coming to accept. or the earth around the sun. Today I believe we have a
new question to answer: Is the earth here for man
Sustainable farming practices result or is man here for the earth?
in healthier soil, balanced grapes and
higher quality wines.
4 INTRODUCTION 5
Sustainable Farming and Winemaking
Sus-tain-a-ble: (suh-steyn-uh-bul)
Journey to become
Capable of being continued with minimal long-
“America’s Greenest Winery”
term effect on the environment.
“Sustainability.” The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English
Before sustainability how-to-books were on the
Language, Fourth Edition. Houghton Mifflin Company, 2004. 12 Feb. 2009.
best sellers’ list, three men of singular vision, Tim
Thornhill, Tom Thornhill, and Paul Dolan, were
Let’s face it, the word, “sustainable” is pretty committed to the creation of “America’s Greenest
vague. With no legal definition of the term, just Winery”. With the purchase of the historic Parducci
about anyone can find a reason to call part or all Wine Cellars they formed Mendocino Wine
of their enterprise “sustainable”. Some businesses Company—a winery built to yield an abundance of
call themselves “environmentally sustainable” or top quality grapes and wines through the long-term
use “sustainable methods”, but have a difficult sustainable practices of environmental protection and
time stating exactly how or what philosophy of strong support for the local farming community.
sustainability governs their practices.
The stand our winery has taken is firm, designed to
To help clarify this issue, Parducci Wine Cellars create quality wines and a healthier planet. By making
has adopted the simple, yet eloquent description wine from locally farmed grapes, using certified
articulated by Gro Harlem Brundtland, the former sustainable farming practices, utilizing 100% green
Prime Minister of Norway in 1987: power and employing earth-friendly packaging, our
family-owned and operated company is creating a
“Sustainable development is
model of quality and environmental sustainability
development that meets the needs of for other wineries to follow. In recognition of our
the present without compromising the status as the nation’s first carbon neutral winery and
ability of future generations to meet our continuing dedication to social responsibility
and environmentally sound practices, we received
their own needs.”
California’s highest environmental award, the
With this definition as a guide, Parducci has estab- Governor’s Environmental and Economic Leadership
lished three major philosophic principles. Award in 2007.
Summary
In order to ensure a quality standard of living for fu-
ture generations, Parducci is committed to following
the Triple Bottom line- economic viability, environ-
mental responsibility and social equity.
Their sustainability standard and challenge to the Chapter 2
wine industry includes:
Organic Farming
• Carbon neutrality
• 100% green power
& Winemaking
• Adoption of certified sustainable farming practices
• Water reduction, reuse and recycling Or-gan-ic: (awr-gan-ik)
• Earth-friendly packaging
characterized by the systemic arrangement of parts;
organized; systematic: elements fitting together into a
unified, organic whole.
pertaining to, involving, or grown with fertilizers
or pesticides of animal or vegetable origin, as
distinguished from manufactured chemicals: organic
farming; organic fruits.
Dictionary.com, “organic,” in Dictionary.com Unabridged (v 1.1). Source
location: Random House, Inc.
Certified Organic Farming use of newly created and efficient under-vine and
in-row cultivation equipment.
and Winemaking
• Natural fungus control through the application
of substances such as elemental sulfur instead of
Organic winegrowers understand that healthy soils
toxic fungicides.
yield balanced grapes. Vines reach into the soil for
their essential needs. If the soil is full of microbial life • Natural pest management through the
and adequate nutrients, the vine absorbs everything integration of cover crops which attract beneficial
it needs to grow at a normal, healthy rate, delivering insects and bring unwanted populations in
quality fruit that expresses the unique character of the balance.
vineyard. • Buffer zones between organic vineyards and those
of neighboring, conventionally-farmed properties
Grape growing and winemaking are approached as a to maintain the integrity of the organic farm.
partnership with nature instead of an exploitation of
the land. Organic farming takes patience, requiring ORGANIC FARMING
more time in the vineyards than conventional farming
NOT ALLOWED ALLOWED
practices require. There are no short cuts or quick fixes
with organic farming, but the care invested creates Toxic-synthetic Natural amendments such as ma-
fertilizers nure, compost and byproducts of
wines of impressive depth, balance, and expressive- winemaking such as grape pomace
ness. Put simply: are used to enrich the soil.
• Healthy soils are the cornerstone of organic Harmful herbicides Hoeing and mowing rather than
farming. chemicals to control weeds.
• Organic vineyards are farmed naturally without Toxic pesticides Beneficial insects, covercrops and
harmful or toxic chemicals. birds control pests, weeds, and
feed the soil.
• Organic vineyards and wineries must go through a
• Lady bugs, lace wings, spiders,
rigorous certification process. bees and butterflies can be found
in the vineyards to help keep
balance.
The Organic Certification Process • Paul Dolan plants cover crops of
Purple vetch, Austrian Winter pea
All organic vineyards are farmed according to the and oats in his vineyards to add
USDA’s National Organic Program Guidelines. These nutrients to the soil, decrease ero-
sion and attract beneficial insects.
standards require:
Farmers only use approved
• Registration of the farmland and chemicals used
products from the OMRI list in the
on the property. vineyard. 4
• Site-specific farm plan that addresses 4 See “OMRI List”, page 40
fertilization, pest, and weed management.
Genetically N/A
• Natural fertilization rather than petro-chemical modified organisms
fertilizers, through the use of plant and animal (GMOs)
material compost piles.
Ionizing radiation N/A
• Non-toxic management of weeds through the Sewage sludge N/A
14 Chapter 2 organic
ORGANICfarming
farmingand
and winemaking
winemaking 15
Organic Farming and Winemaking
Summary
Basic Principles for Growing Winegrapes
Organically
• Maximize quality of grapes and wine
• Healthy soils are the cornerstone of organic
farming Chapter 3
• Vineyards are farmed according to the National
Organic Program Guidelines
Biodynamic® Farming
• Vineyards are farmed naturally without harmful or and Winemaking
toxic chemicals
• Organic vineyards and wineries must go through a
rigorous certification process Bi-o-dy-nam-ic: (bahy-oh-dahy-nam-ik)
Certified Wines (“Organic” & “Made with
The practice of considering and managing a farm as
Organically Grown Grapes”)
a living organism.
• Wine must be produced in certified organic
winery (CCOF) following the National Organic
Program Guidelines Both sustainable and organic farming follow an
ecology-minded approach to viticulture. Biodynamics
takes this approach to the next level. Born from the
teachings of Rudolf Steiner (1924), Biodynamic
farming is one of the first farming systems offered
as an alternative to early 20th century industrialized
agriculture, combining established organic practices
and philosophical principles that recognize all life
is connected. The Biodynamic farmer respects and
honors the entire environment of the farm and
the nature of how vines grow, rather than simply
managing and manipulating vines with synthetic
chemicals designed to boost yields beyond nature’s
design, a process which ultimately stresses the plants.
5
Biodynamic winemaking standards are currently under review. Revisions
will be posted at www.demeter-usa.org and updated in the next edition of
this handbook.
28 Chapter 1
Glossary
Beneficial Insects generally guides farmers into harmony with the cosmos,
Ladybugs have an appetite for aphids, a common garden much like the traditional Farmers Almanac.
pest. Spiders eat leafhoppers in the vineyard. Farmers
Biodynamic Preparations
rely on insects, especially honeybees, to pollinate fruits,
One of the distinguishing features of Biodynamic farm-
nuts and vegetables. Sustainable farming practices seek a
ing is the use of nine different preparations to enhance
balance of beneficial insects to keep harmful populations
the soil and stimulate plant growth. These are applied in
in check. Unfortunately, pesticides can kill both good and
small amounts to the compost pile, the soil and directly
bad insects.
on the vines. See Chapter 3 for descriptions.
Biodegradable
Biodynamic Wine
A biodegradable material decomposes naturally, broken
Grapes come from a certified Biodynamic vineyard and
down by air, water and living organisms. The time frame
are made into wine in a certified Biodynamic winery.
varies, depending on environmental conditions and the
Biodynamic winemaking expresses the authenticity of
material.
the vineyard site (terroir). There is minimal manipulation
Biodiesel Fuel of the wine; added sulfur is under 100ppm. See Chapter 3
This fuel is a renew- for a description of Biodynamics.
able, biodegradable
Biodyvin
substitute for diesel. Example: recycled vegetable oil
A certifier of Biodynamic vintners, specifically French
from restaurants. Use of biodiesel reduces toxic emissions
producers. www.biodyvin.com
associated with diesel (less than half the CO2 emissions
of diesel). All of Parducci Wine Cellars’ diesel farm equip- Bioengineering
ment operates on biodiesel fuel. Also known as genetic engineering, it is the application
of engineering principles to biology. It creates genetically
Biodiversity or Biological Diversity
modified organisms (GMOs) with specific attributes by
The vast variety of life forms – plant, animal, microorgan-
inserting foreign genetic material into the original host.
isms. Biodiversity is the foundation of a healthy environ-
ment. Species provide a natural system of checks and Bug Farm
balances, and this natural cooperation assures mutual Farmers use diverse plants (yarrow,
survival and a balanced ecosystem. The grasses in the olives, rose clover) and nectar-rich
vineyard attract beneficial insects (that pollinate and flowers to attract beneficial insects.
keep pests in check); the sheep eat the grasses and leave Also called “insect gardens or
behind waste that feeds the soil. The waste of one species insectaries,” they attract pollinators
provides food for another species. as well as insects that keep pest
populations in check. There are 17
Biodynamic Calendar
bug farms on the Parducci estate
This calendar identi-
vineyards. (See Beneficial Insects and Integrated Pest
fies optimum days
Management)
for sowing, pruning
and harvesting. It California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance
specifies dates for Brought together by the Wine Institute and the California
application of Biodynamic preparations (see below) and Association of Winegrape Growers, this group voluntarily
30 glossary
Glossary 31
Glossary
uses a self-assessment tool to measure the sustainability Central Coast Wine Growers’ Association
of vineyards and wineries. Their tool is the Code of Sus- This organization took the lead and secured a grant from
tainable Winegrowing Practices, containing 227 criteria the National Fish & Wildlife Foundation and formed an
and topics such as ecosystem management, wine quality agricultural watershed association to address agricultural
and environmentally preferred purchasing. http://www. water quality in San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara Coun-
sustainablewinegrowing.org/ ties. www.ccwga.com
32 glossary
Glossary 33
Glossary
34 Glossary
glossary 35
Glossary
signifies fair prices, good labor practices and environmen- e.g., carbon dioxide is released by burning fossil fuel.
tal sustainability. http://www.transfairusa.org/ Other greenhouse gases include methane, nitrous oxide
and ozone.
Family Farmed
Family farmers are often responsible stewards of the land, Greenwashing
protecting it for current and future generations. Parducci To impress potential custom-
Wine Cellars is family farmed and locally owned and oper- ers and sell more product, some
ated in California’s Mendocino County. We support the businesses intentionally overstate
local farmers who grow top quality grapes with sustain- their environmental sensitivity and
able farming methods. accomplishments.
36 Glossary
glossary 37
Glossary
38 Chapter 1 Glossary 39
Glossary
40 Glossary 41
Glossary
future of food that tastes good, agriculture that does not Sulphur
harm the environment and social justice. For the health of An element that has been used in wine production since
people and the planet, Slow Food advocates alternatives antiquity. Growers use sulphur to prevent mildew in the
to fast food, industrial agriculture and standardization. vineyards. Winemakers burn sulphur to clean oak barrels.
www.slowfoodusa.org
Sulphur Dioxide
Soy-based Ink The chemical compound SO2. It protects wine from
Environmentally friendly ink made from non-food soy- spoilage and reduces oxidation. Having antimicrobial
beans, as opposed to petroleum-based ink. Available in properties, SO2 is used to clean winery hoses, tanks and
brighter colors, it improves the life span of printers. It is other equipment.
100% biodegradable. Paper printed in soy ink is easier to
Sustainable Farming
de-ink during the recycling process. Parducci Wine Cellars
Take from the earth only what it can sustainably provide.
and Paul Dolan Vineyard’s wine labels are printed with
A broad category, sustainable farming includes agri-
soy inks.
culture, economics and worker relations. It values the
Steiner, Rudolph (1861-1925) Triple Bottom Line: environmental health, social justice
Steiner is the father of Biodynamic farming. In 1924 he and profit for the farmer. While no legal definition exists,
gave a series of lectures to German farmers who were sustainable farming is guided by the principle of meet-
struggling with productivity on their farms. Over the ing the needs of the present without compromising the
years, they had killed the soil’s microbiological life though needs of future generations. See Chapter 1.
heavy use of petrochemicals. Steiner recommended that
Systems Thinking
they go back to the ways of previous generations and use
Systems thinkers look
methods that man had developed through keen observa-
carefully at linkages,
tion of the environment. He suggested the application
interactions, connections
of a series of preparations designed as homeopathic
and interdependence.
remedies to heal land damaged by modern industrial
While more traditional
farming. In addition to his interest in agriculture, Steiner
forms of analysis focus
was also active in science, Waldorf education, art, archi-
on separating out the
tecture and politics.
individual pieces of what
Sulfites is being studied, the sys-
Sulfites are antioxidants that help preserve wine by tems approach looks at the components of a system and
preventing spoilage and browning. Because they are a their relationships with each other and other systems.
natural byproduct of fermentation, virtually all wines Biodynamic farming is a form of systems thinking.
contain sulfites. Winemakers augment with additional
Terroir
sulfites to protect wine’s freshness. Federal regulations
A French term for the total natural environment of a vine-
require wineries to declare “contains sulfites” on labels
yard. Major components of terroir are soil structure and
because 1% of the population has allergic reaction such
composition, local topography and exposure to sunlight,
as breathing difficulties or hives. By law, wines cannot
the microclimate of a vine and the macroclimate of the
contain more than 350mg/liter of sulfites. A wine labeled
vineyard. Terroir is the holistic interaction of all of these
“No Sulfites” must contain less that 1mg/liter; such wine
elements, resulting in a unique expression of the specific
would be highly perishable.
42 Glossary 43
Glossary
site. These grapes create complex wines with qualities place. Use both sides of a piece of paper; drink water out
specific to the growing region. Central to the concept of of reusable cups.
terroir is the fact that all these components are natural
Wastewater
and not significantly influenced by vineyard manage-
Homes, industries and farms all produce wastewater
ment.
– water that has been used and is unsuitable for drink-
Transitional ing. The average US household produces 280 gallons of
Farms and vineyards that apply for certification often wastewater daily.
go through a transitional period while they come into
Water reclamation
compliance with the rules and regulations of organic
At Parducci we have created a water reclamation process
or Biodynamic agriculture. For example, a piece of land
that saves 10 gallons a minute, 24/7, 365 days a year.
must be free of pesticides for 3 years before it can receive
Our system screens, aerates and purifies water from our
organic or Biodynamic certification. This time period is
winery and then uses gravity flow to move the reclaimed
called “transitional”.
water through constructed wetlands to our pond.
Tree Free Paper
Wetlands
Also known as non-wood, this is paper made without cut-
There are many types of wetlands (marshes, swamps,
ting down trees. The paper is produced from renewable
bogs), and they are the greatest water purifiers on the
resources such as flax, hemp, bamboo and sugar cane.
planet. The wetlands at Parducci, planted to native
Triple Bottom Line grasses, purify the wastewater coming from the winery.
Social, environmental and financial elements are inter- They also provide habitat for wildlife.
connected in sustainable business. Financial results are
Wildlife Habitat
not the only bottom line: the physical environment (i.e.
Natural habitat offers feeding, roosting, breeding, nesting
non-polluting) in which a business operates and the
and refuge areas for animals. The habitat invites plants,
social environment (e.g. fair wages for workers) are mea-
insects, birds and other animals into the vineyard to help
sures of success. This approach is often referred to as the
regulate pests.
3 E’s: Economics, Environment and Equity.
Zero Waste
Vegan Wine
An ideal which strives to eliminate waste. Reuse, recycle
Not necessarily grown sustainably, vegan wines contain
and invest in durability. Used material, including pack-
no animal byproducts. Winemakers commonly use filter-
aging, is a valuable resource, not garbage in need of
ing and clarifying products derived from animals, e.g. egg
disposal.
whites used in fining wines to remove proteins, yeasts
and other particles that are in suspension during the
making of the wine. Vegan white wines are clarified with
bentonite, a natural, inert clay powder. All Kosher wines
are vegan.
Waste Reduction
As important as recycling, waste reduction is anything
that trims down waste by using less material in the first
44 Glossary 45
Notes
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“It seems to me that a grape
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in harmony with its environment
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Cr e at ed b y
THE Green
Winegrowing
HANDBOOK
086828-85090-4