EQUALIZER

THE
B E C A U S E N O T A L L D I V E R S W E R E C R E A T E D

E Q U A L

ISSUE EIGHT
Nov-Dec 2011

**FREE**

Thistlegorm - Anniversary Safe zodiac diving Cleaning the Red Sea Ras Mohamed explored Egypts mosques

Red Sea news & calendar Reef & wreck briefings Photo contest results Narcosis corner and more...

**Enter our photo contest 1 to win a mini-safari trip**

ISSUE EIGHT - NOV/DEC 2011

THE EQUALIZER

CONTENTS
REGULARS
07 Dive Profile 08 Wreck Briefing 10 Reef Briefing 16 Species Focus 28 Weird Wonders 52 Marine Park Focus 56 Photography Focus 58 Featured Photographer 62 Photo Contest 66 Narcosis Corner

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16

34 40

NEWS
22 Red Sea News 23 Red Sea Calendar 30 Environmental News

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SELECTED FEATURES
20 Surface Interval - No Fly Time 34 Safe Zodiac Diving 40 Anniversary Dive Thistlegorm 46 Egyptian Life - Mosques 48 Odd Cup of Coffee

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Nov-Dec 2011

MEET THE TEAM

Follow The EQUALIZER I have worked as a dive guide/instructor for many years and I still love every second of it. I have about 3.500 dives in the Red Sea under my belt and Im still excited every time Im about to jump in the water. Im very interested in marine life and try to learn as much as possible about the species I see. If I cant tell you what it was we saw during our dive, most likely Ill have the book to find out.

Anders Jlmsj

I had always wanted to dive and first got my opportunity on a holiday in Kenya back in 1999. Since those first few breaths underwater, I knew it wouldnt be a one-off. Since living in Egypt, I have worked as a guide and instructor in most areas and have been fortunate enough to see some amazing sights and experience many wonderful dives. Theres always something new to look for and somewhere different to dive.

James Dawson

If you have missed any issues of The EQUALIZER you can download them for free at www.aziabmedia.com

CONTRIBUTORS Mark Crowley Russell: Crowley - only his mother still uses his real name - is an instructor and dive guide at Sinai Divers in Sharm El Sheikh. After 5 years around the World, he and his guitar have decided to stick around in Sharm and enjoy the Sakara. Clare Wilders: Clare is an instructor and guide for the Ocean College Dive Centre in Sharm El Sheikh as well as the creator of the DiveBunnie website, home for women scuba divers. She is also often seen helping out at communal events. Anna Svrd: Anna is from Sweden and has been a regular visitor to the Red Sea for many years. She recently completed her IDC course and is now a fully qualified member of the instructor family. As well as that, she is also a genius on a computer!

THE EQUALIZER - equalizer@aziabmedia.com Distributed by Aziab Media Ltd Issue Eight - Nov/Dec 2011
The EQUALIZER. The views expressed herein are those of the author exclusively. Editorial contributions are welcome and should be sent to The EQUALIZER. All due care will be taken with material submitted, but the magazine and publishers cannot be held responsible for loss or damage. The EQUALIZER assumes no responsibility to return unsolicited editorial, graphic or other material. All rights in letters, e-mails and unsolicited and graphic material will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes, and material will be subject to The EQUALIZERs unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. The EQUALIZER is fully protected by copyright and nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. The EQUALIZER retains the right to publish your material in all media, including and without limitation, the Internet. Some of the activities covered in this magazine carry a significant risk of injury or death. Undertake them only with proper instruction, training or equipment. While reasonable precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of advice and information given to readers, the writers, editor, publisher and proprietor cannot accept responsibility for any damages or inconvenience that may arise therefrom.

Cover Photo: Common Lionfish by James Dawson 4

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EDITORIAL
Welcome to the Issue Eight of The EQUALIZER. Were living in times of changes in many ways. The world is changing around us, especially us living in Egypt and the Arabic world in general. But also the fall is here so the weather is changing and the Red Sea follows suit. Lately the air- and water temperature has dropped which together with The Equinox last month started an important part of the yearly cycle. The diving is brilliant this time of year. For Issue Eight we have had some editorial help from contributors well known to EQUALIZER readers. We drink coffee with Bedouins together with Anna, visit Ras Mohammed National park with Crowley plus get to follow Clare on an Anniversary Dive on SS Thistlegorm 70 Years after she sank. The regular Species in Focus, Reef- and Wreck Briefings are still here and on top of all this we start a new series we call I Saw This Weird Thing where we answer the most FAQs about mystifying Marine Life. If you are in to photography, take a look at Amanda Cotton as the Featured Photographer, learn how to take care of under water camera equipment in Photography Focus and participate in our Photo Contest. We hope you will find Issue Eight Interesting. Sit back and enjoy. If you have suggestions for future articles in The EQUALIZER, feel free to contact us at; equalizer@aziabmedia.com Anders & James
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RED SEA LEGENDS DIVE PROFILE

Rolf Schmidt
Age: 60 Lives in Sharm el Sheikh Egypt Working with: Sinai Divers
class. The outside reef of Shaab Machmod at the small crack has the best hard coral in the area, and not to forget the Brother Isl. One of the best Dive sites in the world What was your most memorable dive? RS: Same here. My wife Petra who have been with me for all these years, and me we dived all over the world - Cocos, Galapagos, Maldives and so on. But the one that sticks out the most is my first dive ever in Ras Mohamed. It was all shore diving then. Once I reached the edge of the reef and suddenly there is that deep, deep blue, bottom less. It took my breath away! If you could be a marine species, what would you be? RS: Hmm, difficult one. I dont want to be caught and eaten and I dont want to be collected. Since I do enjoy being a human with the pleasures that come along, being a Dolphin is tempting. Life of a clown fish will do as well. What do you think is the biggest threat to the Red Sea? RS: Overdevelopment and impact of human activity.

When did you start diving? RS: 1973 Why did you start diving? RS: I was on a trip in East Africa and met a German Dive instructor (ex German Navy) who was running a small operation in a resort on the Tanzania coast. He took me for a dive and that was it.

How long have you been in the Red Sea? Who is your dream Buddy, and why? RS: First time 1974, from 1975 until now with RS: My wife Petra. We did thousand of dives a break of 2 years when Sinai was returned together to Egypt and we all had to leave. Which is your favourite dive site in the Red Sea, and why? RS: There are actually a lot of favourite sites since each of them is special and unique. For sure the reefs in the straits of Tiran like Jackson and Thomas reef. Great coral, fish life and in the summer month the Hammer heads. The wall in Ras Mohamed is world Whats on your bedside table? RS: A classic car magazine. What are you doing in 10 years? RS: Hopefully fit and healthy, enjoying life as much as I can which includes diving for sure, travel, classic cars

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WRECK BRIEFING

The Hazards Of a Flat Sea

Text and Illustration: Anders Jlmsj Photo: James Dawson

ULYSSES

place next to the wreck. Swim around and have a look at the propeller and the rudder. Then back again and into the belly of the ship. Like on The Carnatic the deck is long gone but the supporting steel frame is still there. Explore the inside of the wreck and exit mid-ships where the hull has collapsed and the aft mast is extending out over the bottom. Here you find the boiler half-buried under wreckage.

Like The Carnatic and The Dunraven, The Ulysses was one of those beautiful, slender ships built in the late 19th century. When she was launched from the shipyard in 1871 she had a 2-stroke 2 cylinder compound steam engine delivering 225 hp to the single screw but was also rigged for sailing. She came to have her final resting place at Bluff Point in the Straits of Gubal. In 1887 the Ulysses was on her way from London to Penang in Malaysia using the route through the Suez Canal. It was a calm morning and there were no waves breaking over the reef, giving the threat away. She hit the reef

just north of Bluff Point in the early morning August 16th. At first the captain and crew saw no immediate danger and even declined help from a passing vessel, thinking they could refloat and mend the ship. However, the wind and weather made The Ulysses break in two over the reef and she sunk September 5th. The bow is now scattered over the top of the reef and the stern rests on the seabed at 28 meters. There is a shot-line attached to the wreck and as you descend, glide down along what was once the aft deck. Reaching the bottom at the stern, a bathtub seems completely out of

The bow section was broken off and totally disintegrated on the top of the reef so this is where the wreck ends. The marine life on this wreck is somewhat special. You often find many species of nudibranches including the gorgeous Purple Flabellina in surprising large numbers and the Twin Chromodoris as well as the beautiful Risbecia. Keep an eye out in the blue as well, dolphins often come around during certain times of the day. Opposite: The wreck of Ulysses today. Small: Typical design of Sail Steamer. Above: The Purple Flabelina is often seen on the wreck.
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REEF BRIEFING

From Anemone City to Satellite Reef

Words and Photos by Mark Crowley Illustration by Anders Jlmsj

Shark & Yolanda

The first part to any dive at Shark and Yolanda Reef is to make a current check, and the only place to do this with accuracy is over the wreckage between Yolanda and the satellite reef, which we most commonly call Baby Yolanda. Its never 100% perfect, because although in general the current runs one way or the other, every now and then you get currents from both ends of the dive site meeting somewhere in the middle, and there is nothing you can do about it. If the current is running down and out over the wreckage, then the dive should be carried out in the direction Shark to Yolanda; if the current is running up and into the saddle, then jump at Baby, or the back of the fringing reef, depending on the strength. Easy indicators are the ever present goldfish, anthias or bicolour pullers - aka chocolate dips that are always present somewhere on the reefs in the Red Sea. If youre not 100% sure, swim a little bit to the front of Yolanda and have a look there - but look past the corner of the reef, because you get rebounds and eddies that confuse the fish as well as the dive guides. Look also for the direction that bigger fish such as the unicorns and snappers are facing. This can take a few minutes if you want to get it right.

Some Red Sea Dive Sites demand slightly more thorough planning. Currents and conditions change rapidly and you need to be on top of the game to pull it off safely. One day it can be easy and relaxed, the next it can be howling and nerve-racking. Shark & Yolanda Reefs in the National Park of Ras Mohammed at the very southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula is on of those places. The extreme location contributes to why this dive site can show different faces of schizophrenic proportions. Mark Crowley, Dive Instructor and Guide at Sinai Divers in Shark El Sheikh has extensive experience of this site.

My favourite dive is to jump at the adjacent reef of Anemone city. When the current is running the right way from Shark to Yolanda, the current at Anemone city can be either with you against you when you jump, but usually it is quite manageable. If the current check over the wreckage leads you to think that its pretty strong, then a secondary check at Anemone

is advised - and if its really strong, then Jump at Shark. Descend close to the reef and slowly pootle down to around 15 metres, admiring the magnificent anemones for which the site is named along the way, always filled with a myriad anemonefish, and of course the ever present Nemo - or Red Sea Clownfish. There are some
Nov-Dec 2011

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fantastically huge table corals a little deeper, but for this dive I stay at 15 metres where Anemone city comes to a point and you can head across the blue towards Shark. Its a really easy navigation - if the visibility is good you can see the dark shadow of Shark as soon as you leave Anemone city and if you cant, keep to a distance where you can see the reef wall on the right and swim across the current coming from the left.

also the giant trevallies which are present most of the year round. If you look down, at around 30 metres you will often find a school of unicorn fish and if youre lucky, a school of barracuda, which have been absent from the reef in recent years. Take care because if the current is running, you will find it difficult to get back to the reef if youre too far out, in which case, stay close to the 756 metres deep wall where you will find millions of goldfish and anthias, and some fat scorpionfish in the small holes, and then keep hugging the reef until you come inside Shark to a depth of about 12 metres. In average conditions this is about 20 minutes into the dive. Inside Shark you are protected from the current but move slightly away from it and you will start drifting to Yolanda. The saddle between the reefs here is very beautiful; look out for Giant Morays, Hawksbill and Green turtles and Napoleon Wrass. When you hit the corner of Yolanda you find one of the most beautifully coloured coral gardens in Sharm; bright purple brocolli coral intermingled with the hard coral formations and small sandy patches where you are almost guaranteed to find crocodile fish, blue spotted rays and look out for the stonefish - bright, pink stonefish! If the current is amenable, zig-zag around the coral garden heading deeper until you pass by a broken gorgonian at about 18 metres. Keep the reef close because the current can push down here and after fighting the rebound, youll start to drift across the front of Yolanda. Ususally I make this my second dive of the day with a maximum depth of 22 - 24

Above: Not much is left of the actual wreck of Yolanda. This is a side of a container Left: A diver acompianed by a school of black snappers. metres and so I make the maximum depth after leaving the coral garden. There are some big black corals down there so look for Long nosed hawkfish in them and then on the front of Yolanda you can find schools of unicornfish and batfish, often a turtle or napoleon. There are a couple of large coral blocks here which often hide the biggest morays you will find in Sharm, and a large gorgonian fan shaped like Mickey Mouses head (youll know what I mean when you see it), At this point I usually head up to about 18 metres, being 35 or 40 minutes into the dive. encounter one of the loading arms from the crane she was carrying. Most people refer to it as the mast but its actually not. It lies at an angle between 20 and 16 metres of depth and this is a good place to turn inside Yolanda and shelter from the current, swim up the reef and then drift down past the broken container, passing over the twisted remains of the captains BMW, bathtubs, air conditioning units, big rolls of linoleum, some big metal er pieces of metal that nobody knows what they are for - and of course the famous lavatories. Look underneath things for scorpionfish and Morays, and in the sandy patches alongside As you approach the wreckage of the Yolan- the detritus you will usually find some blue da between Yolanda Reef and Baby, you will spotted rays.

If the current picks up, you have the option to turn inside Shark here but otherwise, stay at 15 metres on the wall and if the current is small, swim out into the blue a little way for the cloud of snappers in the summer, and

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area, some of the idiot operators ignore this and drive their boats over the shallow saddle. You are either faced with a long surface swim or your dive operation is wilfully endangering the lives of other divers. Surface close to the reef and never in the blue. This is an area of very heavy boat traffic, with continuous pick ups and drop offs on a busy day, so take care. If the current is running the other way, I jump on the fringing reef just past Baby Yolanda and basically make the same dive in reverse. The difference is that I will come further into the saddle after the North coral garden of Yolanda and then head behind Shark Reef so we can end the dive safety stopping with the snappers on the front of Shark. I dont bother with Anemone City in this case. This is one of the best reefs in the Red Sea, certainly in the North, and it is therefore also one of the busiest, so although its possible to avoid other divers in some places, in others you are going to encounter groups of muppets swimming the wrong way through your group! If the current is strong and / or the reef is busy, make sure you know where your team is at all times, stay close to the reef and enjoy it - its awesome!

Above: Classic photo subjucts at Yolanda Reef - The Cargo of bathroom fittings.

PLEASE do not sit on the toilets to take funny pictures. You dont visit the lavatory back home wearing a big metal tank, and also you dont have lionfish or morays living in the u-bend. We really dont want the toilets moved or smashed up, thanks, because coral is growing in and around them, and if you get a lionfish sting up the bum you will wish you had a case of Pharaohs revenge because I promise you, my friend, you will be pooping through a plastic tube for the next four days. A nice way to end the dive is to hug Baby on the left shoulder and, if the current is not too strong, swim up the reef and pass between Baby and the fringing reef - the soft coral here

is amazing and there are small caves where you can often find more morays and scorpionfish. Be careful of RIBs here, the saddle is only 5 metres deep and although it is technically illegal for boats to pass through this gap, RIB drivers think they are too cool for rules and there have been incidents in the past. Surfacing from the dive should be treated with caution. The only places to surface are on the outside of Shark, Yolanda or Baby, or along the fringing reef around the back or at Anemone City. Dont come up on the inside because although boats are forbidden in this

Follow Crowleys Red Sea blog on Scuba Board

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MARINE LIFE OF THE RED SEA

Scorpionfish (Scorpaenidae)
by James Dawson The scorpionfish family are collectively grouped as Scorpaenidae and contain some of the most venomous marine fish. There are more than a hundred species, although the number found in the Red Sea is a fraction of that. There are a number of informal or regional names for the family in use in different areas, such as dragonfish, turkeyfish, stingfish or firefish. The family earned their name from the sting that they carry in the form of sharp spines that are coated with a venomous mucus. The power of the toxin varies greatly from species to species, but some are capable of causing intense pain and can create difficulty breathing. Scorpionfish usually have stout bodies and are developed to their bottom dwelling habitat. Most species are well camouflaged and have the addition of flaps and tassels around the body and variable colouration is also used to help them blend in with their surroundings. The lionfish species are less cryptic in their colouration, but have a more potent venom to make up for this lack of camouflage. Most are ambush predators and the feeding movement can be as fast as 15 milliseconds. Prey consists mainly of other fish, crustaceans and cephalopods but some species are known to be cannibalistic.
Opposite from top left: The scorpionfish is a master of disguise and can vary its colour to blend in to the background, the yellow spotted scorpionfish is the smallest of the Red Sea species, the devil scorpionfish is often called the false stonefish due to the similarity to its cousin Background: the common lionfish with all of its tassels and feathers on display

SPECIES FOCUS

When threatened, they will raise their venomous dorsal spines as a threat gesture and often dart a short distance away to conceal themselves again. Some also have brightly coloured pectoral fins which they will flash to deter predators as a warning or to create an opportunity to swim to safety. Little is known of the reproductive process of the family, but it is believed that small eggs (approx 1mm across) may be embedded in a gelatinous mass that floats away on the currents before hatching. The greatest threat that the scorpionfish family pose to divers, is their ability to blend in with the reef. Most cases of divers being stung, are the result of the fish not being spotted in the first place. Treatment of scorpion fish venom is immersion in hot water (45C for 40 minutes) or blowing on the affected area with a hairdryer which helps denature the protein in the venom. The pain will usually dissipate within a few days, but there may be swelling or tingling for longer periods. On night dives in particular, the lionfish has become adept at using divers torches to help with hunting. They will often follow behind and when the torch beam illuminates

a small fish, they will move forward and pounce. If the lionfish become a problem, you can try placing your torchlight away from you and then once the lionfish has swum to it, you simply cover your light and swim in the opposite direction. This is not 100% effective though, so you could always steer the troublesome fish into someone elses torch beam and then swim away!

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The ideal reference companion for any diver. A fully illustrated fish identification manual
The result of five years of underwater photography and information collected by award winning Dutch photographer Dray van Beeck. This app for both iPad and iPhone is one of the most comprehensive underwater references available. Ideal for marine biologists, divers or simply if you wish to learn more about what goes on beneath the waves.

Aqua Life Images

Above: A close up view of the tassels and frills scorpionfish use to enhance their camouflage Below: a shortfin dwarf lionfish hides in the seagrass, a clearfin lionfish searches the reef for food

The lionfish is a favourite among aquarists due to its attractive spines and colouration. A major problem has been created in the Caribbean in recent years, where lionfish, released from home aquaria, have multiplied and greatly diminished resident fish species. The lionfish have no natural predators in the region and the population has grown at the expense of local species. The problem has gotten so severe that even dive centres organise fishing trips for lionfish to try and cull the population. Fortunately in the Red Sea, we have no such problems so you can enjoy the beauty of the lionfish and the not so beautiful scorpionfish without having to worry about them eating everything else on the reef! Just be careful where you put your hands. Range: Throughout Red Sea Size: Varies from 8.5cm (Yellow

An illustrated guide to the common species

Sharks of the Red Sea is a pocket reference for divers and underwater photographers, or just those who are curious about these amazing creatures. This app for both iPad and iPhone is fully illustrated with photographs from award winning photographers. With this guide youll learn more about the species of shark often seen in the Red Sea.

Sharks of the Red Sea

spotted scorpionfish) up to 38cm (Common lionfish) Depth: Some species are known to go deeper but most are seen in depths shallower than 30m on coral reefs Hazards: All species have venomous spines, but the severity of a sting varies greatly. Always keep good buoyancy and avoid contact with the seabed or reef to minimise the chance of contact.
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Developed by

Available from

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SURFACE INTERVAL

Last Day Activities

By James Dawson

Photo Credit: Teh Shyster Photo Credit: Julian Colton

NO FLY TIME

This is a perfect end to the holiday if you have photographs. Most trips will leave early in a competitive group with you as you all fight the morning though to make the most of the to prove why you should have a Formula One wind, so dont forget to set your alarm clock. drive next year! Dry Diving Courses Theres always the chance to get a bit more from your dive trip, even on the last day. Ask at your dive centre about dry courses that they offer so you can learn a new skill before your flight. Nitrox, environmental courses or equipment maintenance courses can all be done without any dives, so you can learn something for your next trip even if you cant get in the water on the last day. Paintballing Another fantastic activity if you fancy a bit of good natured competition before you fly. All equipment is provided and there are usually a selection of formats that you can choose from. Prove your fighting spirit as you take the enemy flag or play a quick fire game to see who has the best aim. Protective clothing is a must and take care not to get any strange bruises that could make the flight home less Chill Out By The Pool than comfortable! Alternatively, the excitement and efforts of the holiday may be too much for another day of activities. If thats the case, then why not have a lie in, enjoy a late breakfast and then sit by the pool with a good book and just relax? Diving can be tiring work so a lazy day may be just the thing to get you back in shape before you head home. Just remember to use sun tan lotion and be careful not to miss your flight. Hot Air Balloon Safari After a hard weeks diving, maybe youre looking for something more relaxing. Enjoy a birds eye view of the Red Sea coast and the mountains from a hot air balloon as you drift with the breeze. The view from the air puts a whole new perspective on the area and is a fantastic opportunity for some great aerial So whatever you decide to do on your final day, remember that youre still on holiday and enjoy yourself. Whether you want a final rush of adrenaline, a sedate view of the rural beauty or to get that book finished that you bought at the airport. Anything that youre not able to fit into this trip, you can always do next time you come to Egypt.

After a great week of diving in the Red Sea, there inevitably comes the final day conundrum of what to do while you off gas for your flight home. You may not be able to dive on your last day, but there is still a wide variety of entertainment to ensure you make the most of the final hours of your holiday. Quad Bike Safari If you prefer your land based activities to have a little more horsepower, try taking to the desert on a quad bike. A full safety briefing will be given before setting off and then you follow your guide along dirt trails where you can feel the wind in your hair as you ride along. Its advisable to wear long trousers and shirt sleeves while headscarves are usually provided to offer protection from Horse Riding Why not take a trip into the desert or the the elements. mountains on a horse? You can see some of the beautiful scenery and visit the rural areas Go-Karting to enjoy the views from the back of an Egyptian If you prefer to avoid the sand but still get some thoroughbred. Most trips are suitable for high speed thrills, then try your hand on the novices, but if you have experience, then the go kart track instead. Full safety equipment guide will often tailor the trip to cover more is provided and you can have the chance to ground or give you the opportunity to ride race around the track to your heart content. at a faster pace. Some areas even offer the Again, long trousers, shirt sleeves and closed option of a camel safari instead of a horse to shoes are advisable but crash helmets will be provided to ensure your safety for the day. give an extra bit of local flavour. If youre not sure what is available to you, ask the rep from your tour company or enquire at the dive centre. They will be able to offer some recommendations for the local area and may even be able to book an excursion for you. Here are some of the highlights that are available in many of the Red Sea resorts to keep you amused on your last day.
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NEWS

** CALENDAR **
RED SEA CALENDAR:
Oceanic Whitetip Sharks
What to look for in the coming months

Red Sea News

Sarah Pikarski from African Divers Nuweiba reports that numbers are up for sightings of Mimic Octopus at the moment with three encounters in four days in different places. Sarah is also keeping track of all the Frogfish on the house reef and is happy to announce that they have a new juvenile in the family. On a more dramatic note they had two male Octopuses fighting over the right to a female. It was an incredible day, we also had a swimming frogfish and 40 minutes with Dolphins on the same dive that day! Says Sarah Sometimes you see things that make you realise quite how cool this job is!

Photo: James Dawson

Oceanic Whitetip Sharks (Carcharhinus longimanus) start to appear regularly around offshore deep water reefs such as Elphinstone and Brother Islands, between October and February. These curious sharks are usually found near the surface investigating the sounds and smells of dive boats and will often swim close to divers.

Thresher Sharks

Divers and snorkelers alike from several Hurghada Dive Operators were all happily surprised when a female Humpback Whale and her calf appeared next to the boats the 12th of October. The location was the area south of Abu Ramada down to just north of Abu Hashish. The Impressing family was staying around for more than an hour. Photo: Dive Point Hurghada. Divers from Colona Divers have this month been swimming around with Hammerhead Shark- soft toy Finley. This is because the Dive Operator is participating in the Project Aware Shark Tour. Finley started his world tour on World Ocean Day 8 June 2011 and the hope is to raise awareness for the ongoing Project Aware action plan to protect the sharks. Photo Colona Divers - Hurghada The bays of the Southern Red Sea have long been famous for the chances to see Dugong but lately Marsa Abu Dabab has been scaringly quiet lately. Now it seems that you are more likely to meet one in Marsa Shouna just a short distance to the north where the report of sightings are coming in more and more frequently. Another interesting sighting reported is a Sailfish spotted by blue o two safari guide Kinga Bardocz on Big Brother 13th October.
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The Pelagic Thresher (Alopias pelagicus) prefers slightly cooler waters and tends to remain in deeper areas during the summer. As the water temperature begins to drop, they are more frequently seen within recreational diving depths. A shy and nervous shark, divers will need to stay calm and move slowly to allow them to come close. Like the Oceanic Whitetip, they are most usually sighted near deep water reefs.

Photo: James Dawson

Large rays

Photo: James Dawson

December to beginning of February. During winter large rays tend to come into the bays along the coast for some reason. Darkspotted stingray, blackblotched stingray, fearthertail, stingray and eagle ray are rather common encounters in Marsa Mubarak, Marsa Shouna Marsa Abu Dabab and so on.

Sardine Runs.

Photo: James Dawson

December to beginning of February. This is something really exciting. Dolphins, sharks and tuna hunting together in big bait balls of sardines. Its not on the sasme level as in South Africa but a rather dramatic experience.

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NEWS
Red Sea News (Continued)
From Sharm El Sheikh Crowley reports that wildlife sightings are on a par for the season and a drop in the water temperature - at the moment around 26 Celsius. The big school of Snappers at Shark Reef have moved on although Ive seen a lot of Napoleons there recently. Turtle sightings are common and there is still the odd hammerhead being seen outside Jackson Reef in Tiran, but weather conditions have not made the dive possible in the last few weeks. It has been a good year for Hammerhead sightings. At least 75% of our dives conducted there resulted in at least 1, and up to 10 together, with groups of four or more seen quite regularly. Even if this is not as great as the schools of 40 in years gone by its a lot better than last year, where they were almost absent. Business has picked up over high season and some centres that were struggling to find work for their instructors due to the massive drop in tourism this year, are now struggling to find enough instructors to do the work. A lot of staff left Sharm due to the lack of work, and recruiting new European staff is almost impossible, unless they are already there. The lack in tourists seems to have had one good result according to Crowley and he explain why. All in all I think it has been a good year for diving in Sharm El Sheikh, the reefs have appeared more vibrant, and there havent been as many people to get in the way. So - were looking forward to a chilly winter and hopeful that the return of tourism to Sharm El Sheikh is a positive sign for the future. Top: Schools of Hammerheads Photo: Kimmo Hagman. Bottom: Bigeye Trevallies Photo: James Dawson
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In non-diving news, the formation of the Sharm Sharks Rugby Club is providing some good entertainment for the dive staff, with regular training sessions (open invitation to all). There is even a girls team growing, and competitive fixtures with other teams are being arranged.

The bar T2 in Sharm El Sheikh welcomes their new manager Luca Mitchel who since years has been driving the Hurghada bar crawlers mad with Lucas Crazy Karaoke in Papas Bar. He has already made an impression by entertaining full throttle style at the Halloween Party.

Above Left: Sharm Sharks playing a friendly game - Photo: Yann Vautrin. Above Right: Haloween party with Luca at T2 - Photo: Michelle Guy.

NEWS
Red Sea News (Continued)
Hurghada Environmental Protection and Conservation Association HEPCA says in a recent newsletter that Now the gloves came off. As they put it We are sick and tired of those considering the Red Sea an underwater amusement park. We will condemn every single violation showing disrespect for our marine and terrestrial environments. We will point the finger at dive guides, divers, instructors, dive centres and whoever else shares the responsibilities of such ignorant behaviour. HEPCA is planning to present their suggested solution to the Governor along with photographs sent in by the local dive community. The underwater environment, reefs and wrecks is the foundation for the dive industry and we have to do everything to protect it. If you see anyone disrespecting and damaging the Red Sea wrecks and reefs, document with photographs or video and report it on the HEPCA website HERE.

Next month it is time for the grand opening of Gold Gym in Hurghada. Its located next to Calypso night club and with its 2.300 m2 it will be the largest training facility in town. There is a separate ladies area and all personOctober 1st Extra Divers Marsa Ghaleb opend all trainers are ISSA qualified. up in their new facilities in Marina Lodge Hotel. From here the daily boats will be leaving the jetty right outside the dive centre. Orca Dive Club Dahab are moving from its location in Happy Life Hotel to Coralia Club Dahab at the big lagoon from beginning of November. Colona Divers re-opens in Marsa Ghaleb. The Dive Operator chose to close in the beginning of the year due to the revolution but has now decided that the political climate has settled enough to continue with business.

If you have Red Sea News to report please send us an email to equalizer@aziabmedia.com
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I SAW THIS WEIRD THING...

SAILORs EYEBALL
The Largest Single-Cell Organism In The World
Words Anders Jlmsj - Photo James Dawson

Its found on hard bottoms in tidal zones where its attached by rhizoids, hair-like threads that create a surprisingly strong hold. Fairly common in tropical and subtropical seas all over the world its one of the largest single-celled organisms on the planet. Its a plant and therefore a photosynthetic organism meaning that it can produce food directly from carbon dioxide and water using energy from sun light. Due to the cellulose structure the cell wall is tough and transparent while the inside is filled with a green fluid. If you put a torch behind it so you can see the light coming through, it looks like a green marble. It normally grows individually, but it happens that you find a group stuck together. It reproduces by segregative cell division. A mother cell makes daughter cells which forms individual rhizoids and new bubbles. These separate from the mother cell and a new Sailors Eyeball is born.

On many occasions divers come out of the water saying I saw this weird thing and often what they have seen is a Sailors Eyeball Valonia Ventricosa. And yes, the Sailors Eyeball is likely to be one of the most peculiar looking objects you will encounter on the normal dive. It is about the size of a ping-pong ball and shiny as mother of pearl. Some describe it as a bubble of mercury or chrome, other

say it looks like a stainless steel ball bearing. Many assume that they are man-made and not a natural occurring feature of the reef. Sailors eyeballs belongs to the group called bubble algae. It is believed to have acquired its name by early mariners peering into the water and seeing what seemed to be eyes peering back at them.

Because of its size and the fact that it is one large single cell the Sailors Eyeball has attracted the eye of scientific studies. These studies have proven very useful in order to learn more on the subject of how cells develop. So next time you see one of these shimmering spherical algae remember that you are in the company of a world record holding giant that may one day change the way we define our own smallest building blocks the cell.
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ENVIRONMENT

HURGHADA BEACH CLEAN-UPS

By Anders Jlmsj - Photographs: HEPCA

MISSION: POSSIBLE

Do you remember February 2011? Egypt was suddenly not the old Egypt anymore, the former president Moubarak was gone, the Egyptian population achieved the impossible. A sense of ownership for the country developed throughout the citizenship, citizen armies were established and cleanups took place on a daily basis. All of the sudden the environment was becoming one of the top-priorities in the country. You could see the young cleaning together with the old, the foreigners with the Egyptians, all for one goal: to clean the country. But what happened then, where did the enthusiasm that seemed so promising for Egypts nature go? Unfortunately, may it be due to the loss of interest or the rising temperatures during the day, the new appre-

ciation for the environment did not last very long and already in March the cleanup movement died. Recently, a new group started to continue the work that was left 7 months ago. Under the lead of the local non-governmental organisation HEPCA (Hurghada Environmental Protection and Conservation Association) cleanups are being organised on a regular basis again. Every weekend, members of the community meet to clean different areas in Hurghada, while especially concentrating on the spruceness of the beaches, Public Beach 4 or Felfela Beach among others. In the last month they managed to collect more than 4 trucks full of rubbish while leaving behind cleaner and nicer areas.

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Nov-Dec 2011

Above: Before and After taken at Felfela Beach. Moreover, solid waste is still one of the biggest threats to the marine ecosystem, annually killing millions of aquatic creatures by accidental ingestion and entanglement. We should all do our best to fight this threat and make sure that our rubbish does not end up in the sea but in bins, where it belongs. If you would like to be part of the cleanups join the facebook group Cleanups in Hurghada. This is where the group organises their cleanup events and announces dates, times and locations for the upcoming cleanups. If you do not have an account on facebook you can get in contact with the organiser Urte under urte@ hepca.com. She can give you all the information you need. Everyone is welcome to join, helpers are always needed!

Above: We are all in it together. This is 6 years old Talaal who, together with his mother Rose is helping out every time.
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If youre coming to Egypt for a dive holiday you might be doing some diving from a Rigid-Hulled Inflatable Boat or RHIB. It used to be exclusive for liveaboards but now it starts to become more and more common amongst daily diving operators to offer single-dive excursions from inflatables. In the south of Egypt the inflatables have been around for a while for trips from Marsa Alam to Elphinstone for example but now they are also more frequently introduced in the north. Some divers are used to the techniques of diving from RHIB, some are not. Here are some hints to make your holiday easier and safer. But first - the history of the RHIB in short. The inflatable boat is not a new idea. Prehistoric carvings show animal skins filled with air used as floats to cross waters. However, the development of the modern inflatable boat has an intricate history. In 1838 Charles Goodyear discovered the process to vulcanize rubber which stabilises the rubber making it sturdy and flexible and in 1839 the Duke of Wellington was busy testing the first inflatable pontoons. By 1855 several types of inflatable rubber boats were in use, some made by Goodyear, some by the Thomas Hancock Company in Britain and in 1866 four men managed to successfully cross the Atlantic from USA to UK on an inflatable raft. You can reed about this adventure in William H. Longyards book A Speck on the Sea : Epic Voyages in the Most Improbable Vessels In 1937 Pierre Debroutelles designed an inflatable which is considered to be the first to have U-shaped tubes with a wooden transom. During World War II warships began to use boat-shaped rubber life rafts and one of the models was built by the former airplane-

rhib
RIGID-HULLED INFLATABLE BOATS
Text and Illustration Anders Jlmsj

DIVING FROM A RHIB IN THE RED SEA

manufacturer Zodiac which later on expanded into the civilian boat industry. Alain Bombard, French Navy officer and biologist came up with the idea to put an outboard engine in the back. The manufacturer Zodiac picked up on the idea and built it. In the mid 1960s a group of students at Atlantic College in Wales replaced the plywood hull with glass fibre and the modern RHIB was born. Bombard actually sailed his inflatable across the Atlantic Ocean in 1952. This led a friend of Bombards Jacques-Yves Cousteau to get his eyes on the inflatable boat and brought some onto his research vessel Calypso as tenders. Now its time to go for a dive and we will be taken out to the water entry- and we will be brought back to the dive vessel by an inflatable. From now on well call it Zodiac. Prepare For Departure Make a buddy check and take a few breaths from your regulator while monitoring your pressure gauge. To roll into the water with a closed tank is a big no-no. Make sure (really sure) that you have everything, especially your dive computer and your weights. These are the most commonly forgotten items. On the way out, do not put anything on the floor of the Zodiac. A mask or computer

is easily broken when stood upon. Better then to keep the computer on your arm and the mask around your neck. Make sure that also your camera is safe. When In the Zodiac You are now in your weights and equipment, prepare your mask. Put your fins on with the mask on your face and

and regulator and the other grabbing your weight belt buckle. Almost every lost weight belt happens during the roll-in. When everybody is ready the guide, or crew member piloting the Zodiac, counts down 3 2 1 GO! Everybody should roll in simultaneously on GO! If you for some reason miss to roll in on GO! you wait for the

Photo Epmeror Diveers El Gouna

the regulator in your mouth. This way, if you lose balance and fall in the water you are prepared for being under water. While the Zodiac is moving its a good idea to hold on to the ropes on the side of the Zodiac.

Zodiac driver to check that its clear behind you before your second attempt. If you roll in just a few seconds after the group you might end up banging your tank in someones head. Depending on conditions you might practice one of two different ways to Rolling in from the Zodiac enter the water: Positive EnHold one hand on your mask try or Negative Entry.
Nov-Dec 2011

Above: Type of inflatable used by Daily Dive Operators.

Above: Inflatables hanging behind a safariboat.

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Positive Buoyant Entry Inflate your BCD slightly before rolling in. In the water you regroup and follow the guides instructions. Descend in buddy teams while keeping an eye at the guide for directions.

line from the reel so it doesnt get caught by waves, current or wind and swept up over the reef. On a drift dive alongside a reef there should always be at least one SMB in each buddy team, preferably one with each diver. If you have never used an SMB before you can get training from one of your guides. LoNegative Buoyant Entry cate the Zodiac and keep an eye out for other Empty your BCD completely. If you have moving Zodiacs while ascending. problems squeezing all the air out you can suck out the last air through the inflator The crew cant take the Zodiac too close to orally. the reef because then it might be swept on Exhale as you roll in so you get extra heavy. top of the reef by the wind and waves so Head down and fins up you make a few when you surface you might have to swim out hard fin kicks and meet up with your bud- and meet it. When you reach the Zodiac the dy on 5-6 metres. crewman will direct you to either side of the Zodiac. Grab the handle/rope with your left

before the BCD. If you have integrated weights they need to come out before you take the BCD off. Keep holding on to the Zodiac and release all buckles with your right hand. Make sure your BCD is inflated. Unclip the left shoulder strap and swing your BCD around your body holding the inflator side. Help the crew by pushing your cylinder from underneath. Swing your legs out to get your body in a horizontal position. Make a few hard fin kicks and pull yourself over the tubing. Well done! This whole procedure takes maximum 20 seconds. Its extremely important that this operation goes swift. If the wind or waves pushes the Zodiac onto the reef it will damage the corals, damage the Zodiac and most importantly may cause serious injury.

Above Hold your SMB upright to be visible from far away. Opposite Page: Divers back in the Zodiac after a dive.

Photo: James Dawson

Getting Back Into the Zodiac When its time for the safety stop its time to start planning for the re-entry onto the Zodiac. Make your safety stop close to the reef. At the end of the safety stop swim out a few metres from the reef and send up your SMB at least one minute before you plan to break the surface. Keep an eye on the SMB and the

hand. This hand stays on this rope until you are in the Zodiac. If you let go the wind will take the Zodiac away from you. First hand the Zodiac driver your SMB + reel, camera, torch or whatever loose equipment you might carry. Then release your weights and give them to the crew in the Zodiac. It goes without saying that you always remove your weights
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The Guide Depending on the situation the guide might be first or last into the Zodiac. If the weather is rough and you need to get out of the water fast the guide will be first back up and help the Zodiac driver to pull equipment over the tubing. If conditions are good or there is a diver who needs special help the guide might be the last one into the Zodiac. This is a decision she/he will make at the time. In any case its imperative that you follow the guides instructions. We can talk about the dive when we are safely in the Zodiac and on our way back.

This page: Divers getting back into the Zodiac after a dive
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THISTLEGORM
70 Years Anniversary Dive Words: Clare Wilders - Photo: Dray Van Beeck

So this month, on the Sixth October, we had the seventy year anniversary of the sinking of the SS Thistlegorm. That was the night she was moored up in the Gulf of Suez awaiting orders to ferry through the canal en-route to supply the Allied forces in Tibruk. Sadly during the night, the ship was bombed, with the devastating blast creating such a vast hole, that she sank to the sandy bottom. There she has rested for the last seventy years, at a depth of thirty metres. The fact that it was a hot night had saved most of the crews lives, as many were sleeping on deck in an attempt to keep cool. However, sadly nine lives were still lost that night, meaning that this wreck is also a war grave. Every trip we make here, we do pay a nod of respect to those unfortunate men. As it happened, we had a trip booked for the anniversary date this year. Seventy years is quite some time for a ship to sit on the bottom, and as a result she has gathered a wealth of aquatic life using her as a home. So this dive really is quite spectacular both for wreck lovers and reef lovers alike.

Once on board, with the boat checked, it was time for a snooze during our journey. The sun was just rising now, so into the saloon I headed, found a comfy bench, and put my head down to sleep. Ahhhh.... nice, I got a kind of kip, although I was very aware of the rising swell around us, and was fully expecting to get blasted as we rounded the tip of the Sinai peninsular by Shark and Yolande Reefs.

Its been 70 years sinse the day SS Thistlegorm was sunk - Clare Wilders tell the story of the anniversary dive on Thistlegorm on 6th October 2011.

Opposite Page: The author ready to jump in the water for a dive. THE EQUALIZER 40

It was a particularly early start to the day, even for a Thistlegorm trip, with my bus at five past four in the morning and Ahmed being collected at three thirty! With the sun not yet even a glimmer on the horizon, I was up, enjoying a cuppa before heading off into the darkness to gather the guests for our trip. An hour and a half later, there was no blasting wind, still just a light breeze, and no sign of Being slightly superstitious I had not actually the saloon filling up with guests seeking shelmentioned the auspicious date of our trip, as ter... Ooooh, maybe things are going in our the weather forecast had not been in our fa- favour. I will say however, the wind did convour at all. There was a small chance that we tinue to pick up as we made our way further could actually end up having to turn around. up the Gulf, and as we ventured out from the This is not unheard of on Thistlegorm trips, as shelter of the reef, the swell did once more she lies in relatively unsheltered, waters, so increase. I did not want to jinx things by making a big deal of the date until we were a little closer As we approached the wreck itself, it became to our target. clear that it was going to be one popular day here. Well... the seventieth anniversary is no
41 Nov-Dec 2011

to the rafters with trucks, motorbikes, boots, hospital beds and even aeroplane wings and noses. I signalled back to my divers as we approached each item of interest, and as per the briefing, they passed my messages back to those behind them, just to make sure that everyone got to see and appreciate as much as possible. The next area to see was the rope room in the bow. We headed in, admiring the huge coils of rope still sitting untouched after all these years, before exiting and swimming up onto the bow itself. Here we could really admire the fact that not only is this an amazing, huge shipwreck, it has also become a reef in its own right, now home to whole colonies of coral, and dense shoals of fusiliers. Off to the port side, in the distance, I could even see a

Trucks loaded with motor bikes secret, so many dive centres will have created tions just in case). The fact that our back line was tied right by the entrance point to the special anniversary trips to mark the event. holds, and I could already see a fair few divers As it had become quite apparent that the trip milling around the ship beneath us, finalised was indeed going to go ahead, I started to let my decision, so I checked that everyone was the divers know how important the date was. happy to enter, and in we went... We were going to be diving this wreck exactly seventy years after she sank. It gave me Initially, it took a moment for our eyes to adgoosebumps every time I mentioned the fact. just to the gloom, then we could make out a halo of daylight ahead of us, silhouetting the During the briefing, I told our divers about shoals of sweepers hanging out in the first the ship, how she sank, and of course the room. We then dropped through the floor to anniversary, reminding them of todays im- the lower levels, making sure that we sank as portance and how we should really make an low as possible to get some depth in order extra nod of respect towards those who had to prevent a reverse profile on our next dive. Through the shadows, I could see shafts of lost their lives that fateful night. light beaming down ahead of us. We swam Once moored, we were ready to head down through the only narrow part of the wreck the line. All holding on firmly until we reached to the next hold where we found the famous the wreck itself, there was a decent flow of trucks some were empty, some stacked with current, making me think it might be a good motorbikes. We swam around each hold, in idea to go inside first. (I had briefed both op- turn. All of which had been packed almost
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rippling silver wall of batfish, glinting in the sunshine. The current was perfect for an Im on top of the world! Titanic moment. So I swam into the flow, out over the point of the bow, arms outstretched... looking down I could see the fusiliers swirling in the depths fleeing from the ever intimidating blue fin trevallies. The current was pretty sturdy, so a few strong kicks were needed to push myself beyond the bow in order to turn around and admire the sheer scale of the shipwreck now in front of me. She is around seventeen metres wide and a whole one hundred and twenty six metres long, and with our fantastic visibility here, we really were able to see this vastness for ourselves at this point. I looked down the keel of the bow watching it delve deep into the navy below, surrounded by turquoise flashes of fusilier.

Above: The Poppy attached to the wreck Photo: Catherine Sharp

43 Nov-Dec 2011

Departing the wreck Photo: Clare Wilders All too soon, it was time to drift back to our ascent line and the safety stop. The rope was leading up at quite a gentle, sloping angle and due to the roughening surface conditions, seemed to disappear into a ghostly mist above us. I felt like we were climbing a rope up into the clouds, really quite spooky indeed. As expected, the wind had increased somewhat, so it felt quite bizarre leaving the relative peace and tranquility of the fog below, to appear on the surface in the throes of a lively wind and a fairly decent swell. Time for a cup of tea, chat and a warm up in the ever present sunshine. Our second dive was to head around the outside of the wreck and take in the propeller and stern. Some of our other guys had also seen a single poppy on the winch blocks, so I was hoping we would have enough air and no deco time left to take a little look at that and pay our respects to the lost souls. So down the line we went again, dipping beneath the now slightly vexed surface conditions. There was still a touch of current, but my divers were all confident, so this was not a problem, we simply held on to the rope until we reached the shelter of the ship, and then used that to protect us from the flow. We swam straight for the prop first, in order to touch the blade for luck. There is a tiny patch of brass shining through the corals, where thousands of divers over the years have had a little stroke for luck. Rounding the stern we immediately started to shallow off slightly in order to check out the big gun on the rear and the box of bombs where someone (not so wisely, I feel) has rubbed off the algae to reveal the date that the bomb was made (1929... so the munitions were already old, even back then). Finning over the gun carriers and bomb blast area, we headed for the captains cabin where we made our usual nod of respect, before heading straight for the poppy on the bow and another nod. There it was, cable tied to a spike in front of the winch block, a solitary poppy in remembrance of the nine guys who died on that night seventy years ago. Rest in Peace.

Once again, time flew past, and all too soon we needed to shallow off... my computer always ultra conservative, was telling me to ascend a touch, ahead of my guests so we headed for the roof and our back line, by which time we all needed to start making our way up. Very slowly taking in the shady ship beneath us, surrounded by more swirling fusiliers, we worked our way up the rope, taking a little extra time on the stop, just to ensure we were all fully off-gassed after our two, pretty square dive profiles. Once back on the surface, we were most glad that it was time to leave. The swell was now properly angry, and thanks to our early start, we were able to leave the area before it became too uncomfortable for everyone. Hmmm I guess Autumn has well and truly announced her arrival. Hey ho... it happens every year. On our way back to Sharm, it was time to catch up on a few more snoozes, but not before we enjoyed a hearty lunch cooked by our new chef on board. Most tasty indeed!

Article adapted from the original which can be found in the DiveBunnie Blog:

Want to know more about this fantastic wreck? Then check out John Keans website. Author of his own Thistlegorm book where he interviews survivors of the wreck, to find out the full story: www.ssthistlegorm.com

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A Photographic Tour of Places of Worship

A SELECTION OF EGYPTS MOSQUES EGYPTIAN LIFE

It is almost impossible to say how many mosques there are in Egypt. Cairo is sometimes known as the city of 1,000 minarets, but Cairo has far more places of worship than that. Here is a small sample of the varied and majestic mosques that can be found throughout Egypt; Clockwise from top right: The museum of Islamic art in Cairo has a mosque within the grounds, the imposing facade of the Bin El Saladin mosque (aka Cairo Citadel), an area where visitors can clean clean their feet before entering the mosque, the first mosque was built in Egypt in 642 - the Amr Ibn Al Aas mosque in Fustat, a new mosque under construction in Hurghada, a typical minaret towers over the city, sometimes a mosque is the only structure in an area, a mosque tucked in the alleyways of Luxor.

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Nov-Dec 2011

THE EGYPTIAN WAY

The Odd Cup Of Coffee

Words by Anna Svrd - Photo by Anders Jlmsj It is Sunday afternoon and I am sitting at caf at Cairo International airport. I am on my way back from another memorable holiday in Egypt, trying my best to find a reason to feel even the slightest bit home sick. Nothing comes to mind. I gaze deep into my paper cup of weak instant coffee and for a moment I think I have found it. Coffee! It seems almost impossible to have a decent cup of strong coffee in Egypt. I have often thought of this as strange in a country so close to the origin of coffee. Then I realise my mistake. The three best cups of coffee I have ever had, I had in Egypt.

It was in Marsh 2009, me, my husband and a couple of friends spend some time diving north of Marsa Alam. The water temperature was around 22C; comfortable if you are on holiday and brought your dry suit, barely worth the money if you are a dive guide from Asswan in a worn out 5 mm wet suit, one size too big. That is why we agreed, on that particular day to spare our poor guide and let him stay on the deserted beach and look after our clothes. Upon returning from the dive an hour later we found out that this beach was in fact not as deserted as it first appeared. It turned out to be the temporary home of an old Bedouin man from the same village as our guide. Since the two knew each other and wanted to spend some more time together we were invited to join them for a cup of Bedouin coffee. Coffee after a dive is always welcome and as we were in no hurry to get back, we gladly accepted. By then we had no idea that what we were about to experience was something very far from your ordinary, everyday cup of coffee. The first thing that struck me as a bit odd was that we were served tea while we waited for the coffee. When you come from a country where coffee is always readily available while tea is something you will have to ask specifically for, this seems slightly backwards, however not at all unpleasant. It was soon evident though, that the Bedouin did not exactly have Nescaf in mind when he invited us. He began the coffee making process by rummaging out a handful of pale, greenish beans which he roasted in an old tin can in a smouldering bonfire. As the beans begun to change colour he added pieces of ginger to the tin can and myrrh to the ember for taste. Even the smell was delicious as we sat in silence in the warm sand, sipping our tea, watching every step of the process with growing curiosity.

A hesitant conversation began to emerge while the beans were roasting. Once in a while the old man reached out and rattled the tin can. When the beans had turned dark brown he took the still hot beans into his hands, rubbing them gently, blowing away the peels. He grounded the beans and pieces of ginger in a mortar and carefully transferred the mix to a small amphora-shaped vessel that he filled up with water and placed in the fire.

While the coffee was heating up he took out six thimble-sized porcelain cups and washed them in a tub, half-full with less than clear water. I remember that I thought that we would have been much better off if he had not washed the cups at all and that we would probably have to spend the next couple of days in close proximity to a bathroom. But my curiosity was aroused and I was more than happy to take that chance.
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hope of being able to fall asleep some time within the next couple of weeks we thought it best to thank our host and head back. This however, was not allowed. We had had two cups of coffee each and our guide explained to us that the Bedouin would not let us leave unless we had one more. Or three, or five but we were under no circumstances allowed to Regretfully, I do not possess the language leave after having an even number of cups. skills necessary to make the taste justice. He was quite adamant and we were not exLets just say that it was different from any- actly hard to persuade. thing I have ever tasted. The cups were soon empty apart from some of the sugar that was My single paper cup with poor quality Egypnot dissolved. While talking to our host, the tian airport coffee is almost empty and I swalguide interpreting, we had refills. It was one low the last lukewarm swig with a frown. It of these moments you know right away that is time I get my things together, find the gate and embark on the plane back to where the you will never forget. coffee is rarely this bad, never that delicious No matter how pleasant, all good things must but of immeasurable social importance. With come to an end, and in order to have any me I bring more bright memories from Egypt. When the coffee was boiling the Bedouin took the vessel out of the fire and stuffed a ball of dry grass down its throat to filter off the coffee-grounds as he poured the drink. He served the coffee adding what seemed like equal amounts of coffee and brown sugar in large crystals to the tiny cups.

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MARINE PARK

The Extreme End Of Everything

Words Mark Crowley - Photographs Anders Jlmsj

RAS MOHAMMED

In 1983, 97 square kilometers of the southern tip of the Sinai peninsula was designated by the Egyptian government as the protected National Park of Ras Mohammed. The name stems from the word Ras, Arabic for headland, or cape, and the fact that at a certain time of day, when viewed from the right angle, the cliffs which we know today as Shark Observatory appear to form the outline of a face that is widely regarded as the face of the prophet Mohammed. Since then the park has been extended to cover approximately 480 km2, of which around 75% is underwater.

destroyed in places due to careless and uncaring construction work. Nowadays, the park of Ras Mohammed stretches from the Qad Ibn Haddan lighthouse in the Gulf of Suez to include the Sharm coastline as far north as Tiran with its famous island reefs the entrance to the Gulf of Aqaba where the park borders with the Nabq Protected Area.

At the very south point of the Sinai Peninsula, surrounded by waters reaching the depth of nearly 2.000 metres, Ras Mohammed National Park is indeed extreme in many ways. On land the sun beats the dessert sand , In the water nutrience currents bring life to a kaleidoscope of coral reef and fish. The extreme location of Ras Mohammed has always had huge strategic importance. Ancient Egyptians fought to controll trade on the Red Sea from this advantage point. The Arabs and later the Ottomans who ruled Egypt, always kept a strong military presence to secure the land and naval routesbetween Europe and the East, as well as the passage ways to Mecca. The name Ras Mohammed allegedly comes from one of the cliffs in the area which resembled the features of the Prophet Mohamed. Here Mark Crowley fills us in on all the facts we didnt know about this beautiful National Park

The entire Sinai peninsula had previously been regarded as a protected area during the period of Israeli occupation at which time the sprawling resort which is Sharm El Sheikh today was little more than a couple of hotels, a road or two (of sorts), and a diving paradise. The Israelis recruited members of the Bedouin tribes that inhabit the local desert as park rangers in return for the preservation The national park includes the mountainous of their traditional fishing rights. desert interior which seems completely barren but is in fact home to a number of larger Following the return of Sinai to Egypt, well creatures including the Dorcas gazelle (Ras known marine biologist Dr. Eugenie Clarke Ghozlani means Cape of the Gazelle), the Nu(The Shark Lady) and the Egyptian photog- bian ibex and the Red fox. Sadly, the gazelle rapher and diver Ayman Taher (son of the fa- and ibex have been hunted almost to extincmous artist of the same name), together with tion by the very same tribes that were once early pioneers of the dive industry (now large hired to protect them and driven into the companies such as Camel Dive Club and Si- interior by the increased human presence nai Divers) who recognised the potential for nearer the coast. development in Sharm El Sheikh, pushed to ensure that the environment would be pre- Avian inhabitants of the park include Heron served for future generations of tourists. and Osprey, and white stork stop for a brief Whilst their efforts were not in vain, the mas- respite during their annual migration to mainsive growth of Sharm over the last ten years land Africa. Different types of snakes, lizards or so has seen some of the reefs that lie along and spiders can also be found. the coastline of the resort almost completely Opposite: One of many birds often seen in Ras Mohammed National Park is the Osprey. This Page: The mangrove found in Ras Mohammed National Park is one of the most northerly known in the world.
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Photo Credit: Yuvalr

Unfortunately, the rules governing touching and taking have been consistently broken over the years by incompetent or ignorant divers (and guides, it has to be said), and the no taking rule has been broken by people seeking only financial gain through illegal fishing and although the snapper still gather en masse outside Shark reef every summer, the sharks that used to hunt them there do not. As any visitor will know, the reef itself remains spectacular, and since building is forbidden south of Sharm El Mina (better known as Travco harbour), there is little in the way of damage from coastal development, and long may it remain that way. The future of the park is uncertain, because Egypt as a nation is going through a very difficult political transition right now, but there is a very vocal group of people who wish to ensure that the beauty of the marine environAbove: The Nubian Ibex (Capra nubiana) is a desert-dwelling goat antelope found in Ras Mohammed National Park. together in the submerged part of Ras Mohamed. Water rich in nutrients is driven to the surface to support an ecosystem which ranges from the microscopic all the way to pelagic giants such as whale sharks. Approximately 200 species of coral and around 1,200 species of assorted fish, elasmobranchs, invertebrates and the occasional turtle exist Underwater, the southern tip of the Sinai within its boundaries. is the meeting point for three very different bodies of water. To the west, separating Park rules include no touching, no feeding, no the peninsula from mainland Egypt, lies the taking, and the use of muck-sticks or lobstershallow gulf of Suez which has a maximum ticklers has recently been forbidden. Contradepth of perhaps 250 metres compared to ry to popular belief, the wearing of knives and the 1.7km deep gulf of Aqaba to the East that gloves is permitted, although please only use empties into the Red Sea proper over 2km knives to cut fishing line and only wear gloves deep in places and superheated at depth by if you really have a problem with cold fingers. volcanic activity through the very narrow, Visitors pay a 5 Euro per day entry fee, and if you want to know why you need a visa to go very shallow straits of Tiran. The resultant srange and unpredictable cur- to Ras Mohamed from Sharm, please see my rents conspire to drive these three forces article in issue three of the Equalizer. The raised shoreline of much of the southern tip of Sinai is formed from the fossilized remains of the ancient coral reef, raised out of the water due to seismic activity caused by the fact that the Gulf of Aqaba and the Red Sea lie along a rift between the African and Arabian tectonic plates.
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ment is preserved, and in the long run, it will be more financially lucrative to ensure that this remains so. Having said that, the decrease in tourism has for sure had a positive influence on the reef this year, with absent friends such as the hammerheads in Tiran and the Barracuda at Shark & Yolanda making a welcome return, although not in the numbers they were ten years ago. Ras Mohammed is a spectacular contrast between the desolate appearance of the desert mountain interior and the immensely rich and colourful underwater ecosystem that continues to thrive there. It contains one of the most important and impressive coral reef structures on the planet, and you have to go a long, long way to find better diving.

Above: There are cleare rules for how to behave in Ras Mohammed National Park.
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PHOTOGRAPHY FOCUS

Keeping Your Camera Safe & Dry

by James Dawson The only guaranteed way of never flooding a camera is to never take it in the water in the first place! However, there are some simple steps you can take to minimise, if not completely remove the chance. The first thing is to develop a routine. The more you do something, the more adept you become and by sticking to your own routine you can be sure that youve covered each step and not missed anything. Try to prepare your equipment in an environment that has a similar temperature to that of the water to help reduce the likelihood of condensation due to temperature change. Before you begin with the housing, ensure that the camera is set up correctly. Check that the battery is fully charged and that you have sufficient space on the memory card. Its always best to find these things out before you spend time with the housing and need to start over again. Once you have your camera ready, set it to one side and make sure that the housing is dry. Open it and carefully remove the o-ring. This can be done with the manufacturers tool if you have one or with a credit card or guitar plectrum if you dont. Alternatively, you can squeeze the o-ring down the two longest sides so that it extends past the housing groove and use your fingers to remove it without the need of a tool. Avoid using anything sharp (such as a knife or screwdriver) as this may nick the o-ring or scratch the housing. When you have cleaned the housing of any residual grease or water droplets, then turn your attention to the o-ring. Its best to rinse it in warm water with some liquid soap to ensure you remove all of the previous grease and then, with a clean towel, dry the o-ring and visually check it for any grit, tears or stretching.
Check your battery is charged and the memory card has space starting, use an appropriate tool to remove the o-ring, ensure that there is no debris or water in the groove of the housing

If it looks ok, apply some silicone grease to your thumb and finger and gently ease the grease over the whole o-ring. You want there to be an even shine across the whole o-ring with no clumps or blobs of grease built up. When you have removed the o-ring, avoid putting it down on any surface where it can collect dust or sand. The safest place is to hold it between your lips until youre ready to clean it. Next clean the housings groove for the o-ring with a clean towel. Tissue paper and cotton buds can leave small pieces of fluff in the groove so I find a micro fibre towel is the best method. This way you dont risk leaving anything in the groove that could cause a leak.

Check the o-ring is evenly coated with silicone grease, silica packets can help to remove moisture caused by condensation, always double check the camera by taking a test shot and the housing by dunking it in fresh water to look for bubbles

Its important to give yourself time to prepare your equipment correctly. If you need to rush the set-up theres a greater chance of missing a step or making a mistake. If you are in any doubt about whether the housing is watertight, its safer to leave the camera behind until you can be sure. A flooded camera can be costly and annoying, but it can also cause stress and anxiety underwater which may lead to dangerous outcomes. If in doubt, wait until the next dive and ensure Again, visually inspect the o-ring for any fluff you can dive safely. or specks of dirt and then place it in the groove of the housing. Take care not to stretch it too much and avoid any snags or kinks. Place the camera in the housing and perform a final visual check before closing the housing. Ensure the lock is correctly closed and that the o-ring was not caught at any point. Before closing the housing, it is also possible to include silica gel packets around the camera if there is enough space and you can be sure they wont interfere with its operation. These will absorb small amounts of moisture In the next issue of The EQUALIZER well within the housing look at how to clean and store your equipment such as condensation, between dives. but will not help with a serious leak. Once the housing preparation is completed, take a test shot to ensure that the camera is operating correctly and check the buttons are all functioning. Finally, dip the camera in freshwater and look for any leaks or bubbles. If all is ok, remove the camera from the rinse tank and leave it somewhere safe until its time to dive. More tips and advice can be found in this new guide. Available as an app for both iPhone and iPad. Click here for details

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FEATURED PHOTOGRAPHER

Amanda Cotton
Amanda Cotton is a freelance photographer based in Florida, U.S.A. She received her Bachelor of Arts in Professional Photography while attending Brooks Institute of Photography and currently works as a correspondent and field editor for Ocean Geographic magazine, as well as Gallery Editor for Shark Savers.

Amandas imagery has been published in several major publications and news sources including National Geographic, Discovery, Times Publishing, CNN, Shark Diver Magazine, Natural History Magazine, and Science Daily; as well as many international advertising campaigns. Amanda is quite honoured to have been the recipient of many awards including several from the International Photographers Awards (IPA), Celebrate The Sea, and Underwater Photography Annual Awards among others.

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To learn more about Amanda Cotton visit www.acottonphoto.com Ocean Geographic Society www.ogsociety.org
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PHOTO CONTEST
The winners of the latest EQUALIZER photo contest are; FIRST PLACE - STEFAN BESKOW SECOND PLACE - JENNIE SORIANO THIRD PLACE - MALCOLM NOBBS

COMPETITION RULES
If you fancy yourself as a budding Alex Mustard or simply have a photograph that you think can cut the mustard, why not share it with us? Each issue we will choose three underwater photographs to be published in THE EQUALIZER, with the best of the three receiving a special prize. So if youve ever wanted to see your favourite image in a magazine - this is your chance. Please read the guidelines below before sending your files to ensure that they meet the requirements. Your file must be saved as a jpeg and be a maximum of 250kb in size. The image itself should be a minimum of 500 pixels along the longest edge. Please rename the file so that it is your name (i.e. JamesDawson.jpg) and include in the body of your e-mail any details you would like to add. Then simply e-mail your images to us at

2nd Place - JENNIE SORIANO

photocontest@aziabmedia.com

Our panel of judges will then select the top images each issue to be published in the magazine. So dont be shy. Send your favourites to us now and you could see your work in the next issue of the magazine. 3rd Place - MALCOLM NOBBS Congratulations to all the winners and a big thank you to everyone who took the time to send in their photographs. To enter, see the details opposite. Checklist Image must have been taken underwater Less than 250kb At least 500 pixels on longest side yourname.jpg

FIRST PLACE - STEFAN BESKOW

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CONTEST PRIZE DETAILS

PHOTO CONTEST PRIZE TERMS AND CONDITIONS
The prize consists of one space on a three days/two nights mini safari with COLONA Divers in Hurghada, on any scheduled and confirmed departure, according to availability. The prize must be claimed within one year of being contacted by the organisers. The prize is to be confirmed with COLONA Divers in Hurghada via email hurghada@ colona.com within 60 days of winning the prize. All communication regarding information about the prize should be obtained directly from COLONA Divers. The EQUALIZER magazine will contact the contest winner and COLONA Divers so that the prize can be claimed and arrangements made directly with COLONA Divers. The EQUALIZER magazine is not responsible for the prize offered and is not connected to COLONA Divers in any way. The editors decision is final and correspondence will be entered into. no

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NARCOSIS CORNER with Michael Onkers

A light-hearted look at when it doesnt go quite right by Michael Onkers
Have you ever had one of those days when youre just not quite at your best or most alert? The life of a diving instructor is littered with these moment of madness land mines that make you wish you had stayed in bed. I had one of those days recently and it made me think about all the little things that Ive seen (and probably done myself) over the years. In no particular order of embarrassment here are some of my personal favourites, and a few pointers to try and minimise the shame; Jumping in without your fins - a classic that weve surely all done at least once in our diving careers. The worst thing about it, is the fact that you realise youve forgotten them just as you go past the point of no return in your giant stride. It takes almost the same time for your brain to process the sensation in your foot, register the reason and instruct your mouth to swear, as it does to reach the water. The only way out of this one is to ask sheepishly for your fins to be handed to you and then try to convince everyone that you meant to do it so you could demonstrate the procedure for putting them on in the water. Forgetting to open your tank - not the best way to start the dive in all honesty. If youre lucky, you realise on the boat. If youre not youll generally find out at about 2m when theres a distinctly tight feel to your regulator! If it happens on the boat, you can claim youre demonstrating how to open it when you have your kit on. If you can keep a straight face, you could even try to explain that you like to practise the movement to make shutdown drills easier when diving with a twin set. None will stop you looking like a complete idiot. Not wearing your weights easily identified as the person wearing an awful lot of expensive equipment to go for a snorkel. This carries the most shame when you have jumped in for a drift dive without your lead. There is no getting around that one and you will be branded a fool for the rest of the week. If you are moored at the time you can try to claim that you have a bad back and its more comfortable to put it on in the water. This is less credible though if you have to ask someone to go and get your weights from your crate!

WE ALL MAKE MISTAKES

Getting lost - this one depends heavily upon the dive site and how difficult it is to navigate. The general rule among guides here in Egypt is that if you get lost, your colleagues can make fun of you as much as they like until someone else gets lost at a site. If its you again, then they are within their rights to ridicule you mercilessly until you start to cry or change your identity. This is simply one of those things that you cannot talk your way out of (even though weve all done it). Leaving a piece of your equipment at the dive centre/home/hotel etc - If a guest makes this mistake, then they are allowed to use equipment from the spares box and no more is said about it. If a colleague does it, then they are required to use the brightest or silliest looking bit of corresponding kit that can be found. If its a wetsuit, then they must wear one that is either two sizes too big or small. They are given the choice though. The amazing thing about all of these faux pas is that they can all be avoided with very little effort. A simple buddy check removes most of them, and setting your equipment up early helps to fix others. The navigation though, is just one of those time bombs that lurks around a corner and will, from time to time, go off in your face. You wouldnt believe some of the places where people get lost on a dive so the only thing to do is grin and bear it (and hope that someone else does it soon to divert attention away from you).

Happy Diving

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s r e k n ike O

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