Pampanga’s Real-life Crucifixion

by Ramon T. Ayco

(First published in my column on “Pinoy Reporter” April 2009 issue.)

This April we will commemorate Christ's death

and resurrection -- the “Holy Week” -- locally
known in the Philippines as Cuaresma, Semana
Santa or Mahal na Araw. Once again the air will be
filled with songs of pasyon in “Pabasas” all
throughout the country. “Cenaculos” will be
staged again in plazas and streets. And the most
amazing will be the re-enactment of the
sufferings of Jesus through what we call
“Penetencias”.

"Penitencia" starts as early as Holy Wednesday.

Men stripped themselves naked from the waist
up while women dressed in all white garbs,
walking barefooted under a midday sun and
flagging themselves bloody with ropes and
broken pieces of glass attached with strings to
bamboo sticks. The pinnacle of this is hanging
several men on crosses as a reenactment of Jesus’
crucifixion. They do this as a means of atonement
of their sins. It is a sort of retribution of their
offenses and human weaknesses for past favor
such as after going through some crisis or danger
in their lives.

"Penitencia" is commonly practiced in Manila and almost every provinces of the country with
respective local variations. But the most popular which draws thousands of audience not only local
but also foreign tourists can be watched in the barrio of San Pedro Cutud, San Fernando, Pampanga.
Here the ritual of literally acting out “The passion of Christ” which generally involves self-flagellation is
a prelude to the major event which is the nailing of penitents to the cross. The crucifixion and its
accompanying activities in the 3 villages of Cutud has now become part of the map of tourism events
in the world.

“Penitencia” in San Pedro Cutud was first performed fifty three years ago by
a local volunteer artists and has become notable event. Year 1962, an
individual name Artemio Aoza was first to volunteer to be nailed to the cross
on a wooden cross, aiming to be good religious leader and a faith healer.
With this act of devotion, the event of crucifixion and penitents whipping
which they dubbed Via Crucis took place every year, with number of
participants grew, inflicting pain to themselves for their own sins.

In 1965, the event of the Via Crucis held in Betis, Guagua, Pampanga caught
the interest of the entire nation and became international tourist attraction.
Last year, March 21, 2008, Pampanga carpenter Ruben Enage, 47 was nailed to a wooden cross on
Good Friday for the 22nd time, since his first in 1985. Twenty five other penitents, including two
women, were also nailed on wooden cross on that day in San Pedro Cutud.

Real-life crucifixion are not countenanced by the

Catholic Church, but the fine line that separates
religious ritual from spectacle is slowly erased as
hundreds of tourists troop to this quaint town to
witness the tradition in awe and amazement.

The Holy Week rituals in Pampanga, most notably

the Good Friday re-enactment of Christ's crucifixion,
provide not only destinations for spiritual activities
of the faithful but also tourism and economic
opportunities for the local community.

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